The Spell of Hmong Textiles

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THỔ CẨM CỦA NGƯỜI HMÔNG I The spell of the Hmong's textile

Weaving Dreams Using techniques originating with their ancestors, today Hmong women create the most astounding hemp textiles made from all natural materials and dyes on simple, yet sturdy weaving looms. Their traditional skills remain unmatched by modern technology missing one vital component; a human touch steeped in meaningful traditions. After the harvest is in, a traveler to these regions can find Hmong women weaving at anytime of day and late into the evening. For women, their virtues are upheld and talents expressed in their weaving skills. Even young girls are quite skillful and attentive to even the smallest detail. This is particularly true of young women of a marriageable age who view such skills as a way to distinguish themselves in their community. The looms they use to weave their textiles today are the same basic design handed down from their ancestors. Commonly known as a belt-loom, the weaver can adjust the stretch of the fabric keeping it taunt and parallel between two horizontal boards in a

box-like frame with a roller at one end where the vertical threads are spooled. On the other end the weaver sits threading the horizontal fibers. Upon completion the woven fabric needs to go through a few more steps to become a workable, off-white material prepared for dyeing. The steps consist of repeated washing, soaking in ash water and scraping with wax multiple times. Considering the laborious procedures to process and weave hand-made hemp textiles, the Hmong women are rightfully proud to maintain their traditions. This is especially noted with the influx and availability of cheap clothing from China rejected for the western markets and dumped onto the markets of South East Asia. What keeps their tradition strong is the attention paid to every detail throughout the process whether in stripping the fibers, twisting, processing or weaving. Their commitment to maintaining quality is so strict that Hmong men are not even permitted to observe the weaver.

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