ElegantTravel 优雅旅行希腊 GREECE
WHEN TRAVELLING BECOMES
A LAVISH EXPERIENCE · 当旅行成为一次奢华体验
WINTER 2019/20 · PRICE €9,90 · 冬季 2019/20 · 定价:€ 9.90
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Pandrossou 20, Athens, Greece shop.konstantino.com
KOLONAKI 15 Skoufa str. 10673 Kolonaki, Athens +30 210 3635600 KIFISIA 11 Kolokotroni str. 14562 Kifisia, Athens +30 210 8016641 FOUR SEASONS ASTIR PALACE HOTEL 40 Apollonos str. 16671 Vouliagmeni, Athens +30 2109671638 MYKONOS Nammos Village Psarou +30 2289 022015 BOTTEGA VENETA 14 Kolokotroni str. 14562 Kifisia, Athens +30 210 8085182
LUISAWORLD.COM
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ATHENS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
«ROUTE 2025» 雅典国际机场
“2025路线”
THE COMMITMENT of the Athens International Airport to zero carbon footprint by 2025 is well ahead of the common goal of European airports for 2050. During the 29th General Assembly of Airports Council International Europe (ACI Europe) in Limassol in June 2019, more than 200 member airports from 42 countries, including the Athens International Airport, in an effort to combat climate change, now referred to as climate crisis in terms of CO2 emissions from their operations, have signed a pledge for zero carbon emissions. The Athens International Airport aiming to eliminate its carbon footprint well ahead of the 2050 goal, presented on the 4th of December 2019 the “ROUTE 2025” plan: the Athens International Airport’s commitment to more immediate action. www.aia.gr
雅典国际机场到2025年实现零碳足迹 的承诺远远超过了欧洲机场2050年的 共同目标。 在2019年6月利马索尔举行第29届国际 机场理事会大会(ACI欧洲)期间,包括雅 典国际机场在内的42个国家的200多个 成员机场致力于应对气候变化,即欧洲 气候危机,根据其运营所产生的二氧化 碳排放,签署了零碳排放的承诺条款。 雅典国际机场致力于在2050年大目标 之前彻底消除其碳足迹,于2019年12 月4日提出了“2025路线”计划:雅典国 际机场承诺立即采取行动。
The pledge was signed during the 7th annual “ACES – Athens” Airport Chief Executives’ Symposium held at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, in the presence of more than 200 esteemed representatives from the air transport industry and the fields of finance and tourism. In the joint agreement signed by Olivier Jankovec, Director General, ACI EUROPE and Yiannis Paraschis, CEO of the Athens International Airport, the Athens International Airport committed to submit by 2025: • An extensive plan for clean energy production within the airport with solar energy for the same power consumption, covering AIA’s electricity needs by 100% and corresponding to 91.1% of the company’s current carbon footprint by the 2nd quarter of 2020. • A detailed action plan to eliminate the remaining 8.9% of the carbon footprint (through initiatives such as the use of electric vehicles, biofuels, heat pumps, etc.) by the end of 2020. With this highly significant and innovative global initiative, the Athens International Airport, having already achieved carbon neutral status (level 3+) certified by the Airport Carbon Accreditation and by reducing its carbon emissions by more than 40% from 2005 to today despite the near doubling of passenger traffic, aims to become the first airport operator in Europe to cover 100% of its electricity needs within the airport through renewable sources. www.aia.gr
这项承诺是在第七届年度“ACES–雅典” 机场首席执行官研讨会上签署的,该研 讨会在斯塔夫罗斯•尼亚尔霍斯基金 会文化中心举行,来自航空运输业以及 金融和旅游业的200多名知名代表出席 了会议。 在ACI欧洲总干事Olivier Jankovec 与雅典国际机场首席执行官Yiannis Paraschis共同签署的联合协议中,雅 典国际机场承诺在2025年之前提交: •一项全面计划,该计划要求在机场内 使用太阳能生产清洁能源以满足能量 能耗,到2020年第二季度,清洁能源可 满足雅典国际机场100%的电力需求, 相当于公司当前碳足迹的91.1%。 •一份详细的行动计划,要求到2020年 底消除剩余的8.9%碳足迹(通过使用电 动汽车、生物燃料、热泵等举措) 。 通过这项具有重大意义和创新性 的全球倡议,雅典国际机场已获 得机场碳认证的碳中和地位(3 级以上) ,从2005年至今,尽管雅 典国际机场客运量几乎翻了一 番,但其碳排放量却减少了40% 以上,旨在成为欧洲第一家通过 可再生资源满足机场内100%电 力需求的机场运营商。
THE ULTIMATE ENTERTAINMENT DESTINATION ON THE TOP OF ATHENS
Just 17km from the centre of Athens, the Regency Casino Mont Parnes is located on the top of Mount Parnitha and promises an extraordinary escape. It is the first Greek casino and attracts the most glamorous names of the Greek and international jet set since its first day of operation.
THE BEST GAMES THAT WILL “LIFT YOUR SPIRIT”!
At the Regency Casino Mont Parnes you will find the best games in Europe that will excite you and offer you the ultimate gaming pleasure! Live exciting moments with more than 700 thematic Slot Machines from big companies like Konami, Bally etc and thematic games like Duo Fu Duo Cai and Smash Smash Festival, or experience the intense thrills of the Roulette, Blackjack, Stud poker and Texas Hold’em, the No.1 poker game in the world.
WORLD CLASS HOSPITALITY AT AN ALTITUDE OF “1055”!
The Regency Casino Mont Parnes’ philosophy is based on personal customer care, offering high-standard services and is a typical example of Greek hospitality. Accompanying your every selection is the most breathtaking view of Attica and the exceptional menu of the atmospheric “1055 Café Restaurant”. The restaurant was named after the Mont Parnes altitude and it constitutes the gastronomic achievement of the Casino. For reservations, please call 2102421055. The most modern cable car in Europe, the only one in Athens, provides you with free and comfortable transport while you enjoy the fabulous view in just 7 minutes.
WE ARE OPERATIONAL 7 DAYS A WEEK: Slot Machines – 24 hours operation, Table games from 15:00 to 06:00 – Monday to Friday, Weekend – 24 hours operation Texas Hold’em from 15:00 to 06:00 daily Admission: Guests must be over 21 years of age and a police identity or valid passport are required.
Regulating Authority: HGC. To be admitted you must be at least 21 years of age.
Frequent participation in gambling exposes participants to the risk of addiction and loss of property. Help Line KETHEA-ALPHA: 210-9215776. Play Responsibly!监管机构:HGC。 进入赌场顾客必须年满21岁。经常参与赌博游戏将会使参与者面临成瘾和财产损失的风险。帮助热线 KETHEA-ALPHA:210-9215776。赌场游戏,对自己负责!
位于雅典之巅的终极娱乐圣地 距离雅典市中心仅17公里之遥,丽晶帕尔尼萨山赌场雄踞于帕尔尼萨山顶,这是一个让你一时间逃离红尘扰攘 的特殊之地。 这是雅典的第一家赌场,自开业伊始,它就吸引着无数希腊名流和国际上飞行全球进行豪赌的大亨们。
豪赌振精神! 在丽晶帕尔尼萨山赌场,您能找到全欧洲最激动人心的游戏,享受极端兴奋的游戏体验!700架来自科乐美、巴利 的主题老虎机和多福多财角子机带您经历人生中惊心动魄的瞬间,灵魂震颤飙飞的体验来自轮盘赌,21点扑克, “ 沙蟹”扑克,弹子游戏,以及世界有第一扑克牌美誉的德州扑克。
在海拔1055米之上尽享世界顶级服务! 丽晶帕尔尼萨山赌场的哲学理念建立在以人为本的服务观念之上,致力于提供高水准服务,这正是对典型的希腊 式古道热肠好客传统的完美体现。 令人屏息的阿提卡美景就在您的俯瞰视野中,这里名为“1055咖啡餐厅”用餐处,得名于帕尔尼萨山的海拔高度。 特别的精品菜肴配以辽阔美景,让您感受到美食宜人,秀色可餐。预订电话:21020210050. 这里有全欧洲最现代化的登山缆车,是雅典唯一的缆车设施,为您提供免费、舒适的空中之旅,沉醉于绝色美景 之中,只需7分钟。
我们一周7天运营:
周一至周五,老虎机开放时间:24小时开业;桌上游戏开放时间:15:00 至06:00 周末:24小时开业 德州扑克开放时间:每日15:00至06:00 进入赌场必须达到21周岁,并持有效身份证或护照。
winter 2019-20
冬季2019-20
– CONTENTS –
– 目录 –
20. ID 22. Publisher's note 总编辑寄语
26. Culture Highlights 文化盛事
38. Greece in the World 世界眼中的希腊
44.
Trailblazers - Young entrepreneurs present to the world the best of what Greece has to offer. 开拓者——年轻的企业家向世 界展示希腊
50.
Business story V2 Development
52.
Pagrati - Exploring one of the most popular Athenian neighbourhoods
帕格拉蒂——探索雅典最受欢 迎的社区之一
88
58.
Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation is the new unique gem of Athens with modern and contemporary Greek and international masterpieces.
巴兹尔与伊丽丝·古兰德里斯 基金会是雅典新瑰宝,拥有众多 现当代希腊及国际艺术珍品。
72.
Travel - 10 winter destinations for relaxation, contact with nature and culinary delights. 旅行——10大冬季目的地:放 松身心,与大自然亲密接触并 享受美食
ON THE COVER Floral print silk dress Givenchy and sandals Gianvito Rossi, Luisa World. Photographer: George Katsanakis (10am) 封面 纪梵希印花真丝连衣裙和Gianvito Rossi 凉鞋,路易莎世界。 摄影:乔治•卡萨纳吉斯 (10am)
20 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
88.
58
Pelion - Road trip to the magical mountain.
皮立翁山——通往神奇之山的 公路之旅
99.
Travel Your Senses 感觉行天下
114.
Wine Tasting - Sommelier Konstantinos Tsatsaris takes us on a day trip full of flavours and aromas
122.
Last Stop - Meeting the unique world of Cypriot artist Yioula Hatzigeorgiou 最后一站——遇见来自塞浦路 斯的世界知名艺术家尤乌拉· 哈齐格奥尔乔
葡萄酒鉴赏——侍酒师康斯坦 迪诺斯•查查里斯带领我们进 行芬芳四溢的一日游
118.
Beauty - The Glow Effect 丽人——光彩照人
72
ADDRESSES | ATTICA City Link: 9 Panepistimiou Street, Syntagma Square, T: +30 2111802600, Golden Hall: 37A Kifisias Avenue, Marousi, T: +30 2111814000, atticadps.gr | FREE SHOP 17 Skoufa Street, Kolonaki, T: +30 210 3616200 | KALOGIROU CityLink: 4 Stadiou Street, Athens, T: +30 211 1088119, Golden Hall: 37A Kifisias Avenue, Marousi, T: +30 2111088116, kalogirou.com | LOLA 26 Kanari Street, Kolonaki, T: +30 210 3602778, Attica City Link, 5th floor: 9 Panepistimiou Street, T: +30 2111802897, Attica Golden Hall, 2nd floor: 37A Kifisias Avenue, Marousi, T: +30 2111814226, 47 Agiou Konstantinou Street, Marousi, T: +30 2106128900, lola.gr | LOUIS VUITTON 19 Voukourestiou Street, Athens, T: +30 210 3613938, louisvuitton.com | LUISA WORLD 15 Skoufa Street, Kolonaki, T: +30 210 3635600, 11 Kolokotroni Street, Kifisia, T: +30 2108016641, luisaworld.com | MAXMARA BOUTIQUE 2 Kanari Street, Kolonaki, T: +30 210 3607300, maxmara.com | MARCO BICEGO BOUTIQUE 20 Voukourestiou Street, Kolonaki, T: +30 210 3636900, marcobicego.com | PRADA BOUTIQUE 17 Voukourestiou Street, Kolonaki, T: +30 210 3388386, prada.com | NOTOS Stadiou Street & Aiolou Street, Athens, T: +30 210 3245811, notos.gr | SALVATORE FERRAGAMO BOUTIQUE City Link: 4 Stadiou Street, Athens, T: +30 211 1088159, ferragamo.com | WOLFORD BOUTIQUES, 20 Kanari Street, Athens, T: +30 210 3632353, mgpremium.com
PHOTO: STATHIS MAMALAKIS (1). MICHALIS TOMBROS (1889-1974), TWO WOMEN FRIENDS, 1932. GEORGE ZONGOLOPOULOS (1903-2004), ROVING ALEXANDER, 1968. YANNIS GAITIS (1923-1984), DESCENT FROM THE CROSS, 1984. VIA FLICKR (1). VIA INSTAGRAM (1)
商业故事—— V2 Development
ATHENS BOUTIQUE 20, Voukourestiou str. | Tel +30 210 3636900
MARCOBICEGO.COM
ElegantTravel 优雅旅行
Publisher 出版商 IOANNIS ZOUNALIS 亚尼斯·祖纳里斯
iz@elegantgreece.gr
Creative Director 创意总监 LELE.DESIGN LELE设计
Editor in Chief 总编辑 ADRIANI ORPHANOU-ZOUNALI 阿蒂丽阿妮·奥尔范怒·祖娜丽
olon@happypublications.com
Executive Director 执行编辑 ALEXANDRA NIKOLAOU 亚历山大·尼古拉奥
Managing Editor 主任编辑 KIKI VASSALOU 奇奇·瓦萨鲁
alexandra@elegantgreece.gr
Photo Editor 照片编辑 MARIA KONSTANTOPOULOU 玛丽亚·康斯坦提普罗
Senior Editor 高级编辑 GIORGOS PANAGIOTAKIS 季奥吉斯·帕纳吉奥塔吉斯
Good Life Editor 美好生活编辑 IOANNIS ZOUNALIS 亚尼斯·祖纳里斯
Contributing Editors LINA STAMATIOU XENIA GEORGIADOU DIMITRA TSAKNAKI KONSTANTINOS TSATSARIS
特约编辑
琳娜•斯塔马提奥 海尼亚·伊奥依拉努
MEDIA PARTNER
迪米特亚·查可纳吉 康斯坦提诺斯·查查里斯
Fashion Editor 时尚编辑 NATASHA LIONAKI 娜塔莎·里昂纳吉
Beauty Editor 丽人编辑 ELENI SKALKOTOU 海伦·斯卡柯度
Photographers 拍摄 GEORGE KATSANAKIS (10AM), STATHIS MAMALAKIS 乔治·卡萨纳吉斯 (10AM), 斯塔西斯·马玛拉基斯 English Translations & English Proofreading 英文翻译及校对 WILLIAM TRIANTAFYLLOU 威廉·德力昂达菲鲁
Chinese Translations & Chinese Proofreading 中文翻译及校对 NEFELI-YUAN WU 吴媛 Commercial Associates 商业合作伙伴
ZAKOS CHATZIGIANNAKIS 查蔻斯·查齐亚纳吉斯
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HAPPY PUBLICATIONS IOANNIS ZOUNALIS M.I.K.E. Jean Moreas 24, 152 32, Athens, Greece Telephone: +30 2110193817 Email: olon@happypublications.com
ISSN 2408-0365
93
9 772408 036004
Total, partial or summarized republication or reproduction of this content is strictly prohibited, as is any paraphrase or adaptation of this content in any means mechanical, electronic, photocopying, recorded or otherwise without prior written permission of the publisher. Law 2121/1993 and rules of the International Law regulations valid in Greece. 严格禁止整体、部分或以摘要的形式对本期内容进行再版或转载,对于文字内容的各种电子、复印、录音或其他方式需要经过我们的书面许可。 此项规定依据在希腊颁布的Law 2121/1993相关国际法律规定。
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THE TREATMENT LOTION 海蓝之谜修护精萃液
THE REGENERATING SERUM 海蓝之谜活颜焕肤精华露
CREME DE LA MER MOISTURIΖING CREAM 海蓝之谜精华面霜
THE EYE CONCENTRATE 海蓝之谜浓缩修护 眼部精华霜
from the depths of the oceans to the service of beauty. The healing powers of the sea, the tenacity of Dr. Max Huber, 6,000 experiments and 12 years of research led to a lifetime revelation – a process of fermentation which transformed sea kelps and other natural ingredients into the Miracle Broth™, the regenerating elixir found at the heart of every La Mer product. The brand that captures the healing powers of the sea and transforms the skin, making it softer and more radiant for every occasion, even on transatlantic flights.
The Miracle Essentials
从海洋深处到滋润肌肤。 海洋具有无穷的治愈能 力,麦克斯•贺伯博士历 经12载,6000次实验,最 终获得了令其受益终身 的顿悟,从深海巨藻和其 他精纯成分中发酵萃炼出海蓝之谜品牌的灵魂成分及 修护秘方——神奇活性精萃Miracle Broth™。利用海洋 强大的治愈能力,修复干燥,滋润皮肤,令肌肤焕发自 然活力,焕现健康光采。尤其建议在长途飞行期间使用。
海洋奇迹精华
In Flight Beauty Essentials •·· UV radiation at 30,000 feet is much more intense, therefore using a cream with SPF is vital. ·•· It is important that you travel without wearing makeup. Heavy makeup clogs the pores and makes your skin feel dry and dehydrated. If this cannot be avoided, then use a light moisturiser with a colour that allows the skin to breathe. ··• The excess carbon dioxide of the airplane cabin creates the conditions for dry air and as a result, dry and irritated skin. For treating it, the use of moisturizing compounds that are renewed every 2 hours is essential.
www.lamer.com
飞行美容需知 •·· 在30,000英尺的高空紫外线辐射强度更大,因此使用 含SPF的乳霜至关重要。 ·•· 飞行过程中不要化妆,这很关键,因为化妆品会堵塞 毛孔,使皮肤干燥甚至脱水。如果无法避免,建议使用润 色保湿霜,让皮肤自由呼吸。 ··• 机舱中过量的二氧化碳使得空气异常干燥,从而导致 皮肤干燥甚至发炎,建议每2小时涂抹保湿霜。
publisher’s
总编辑
– NOTE –
Treat a place as if it were a person 像对待一个人一样去对待一个地方
Q
uoting A. A. Gill (food and travel journalist) our approach involves getting under the skin of a destination; “To treat a place as if it were a person”, to go and listen to it, ask it questions, observe it the way you would interview a politician or a pop star. This winter edition of Elegant Travel Greece magazine explores some winter destinations in Greece such as Kaimaktsalan, Zagori, Arkadia, Lake Plastira, Evritania, Kalavryta and Pelion. There is something to be said about the winter holidays. Travelling in winter you are not being of the herd of a hundred plus people being channeled through the morning buffet table and witnessing waiters fumbling over each other serving fifty plus tables a hurried tea or coffee. The best of travelling is not sightseeing. It is an enquiry. It is a conversation. It is an intimacy between strangers. You see, smell and taste a different cultural extension of your own world and knowing the world becomes a physical as well as psychological thrill. What we feature in this special winter issue are such excursions of mind and body. Join us on the road to read and discover especially Greece. Finally, I wish to thank my wonderful staff, writers, photographers, editors, assistants and a very special thanks to Leo my creative director, who put their heart and soul into the design of E.T.G. And a special thanks to the advertisers and readers of E.T.G. Your endorsements and support have been heart warming and comforting during these past six years. The warmth and beauty of Greece awaits you. –Adriani Orphanou Zounali, Editor in Chief
– 寄语 –
引
用自A. A. Gill(美食旅游记者)的名言,我们要深入旅 行目的地, “像对待一个人一样去对待一个地方”,去倾 听它,询问它,以采访政治家或流行歌手的方式去观察它。 本次《希腊优雅旅行》冬季季刊探讨了希腊诸多著名冬季旅 行目的地,如凯马克萨兰、扎戈里、阿卡迪亚、普拉斯蒂拉湖、埃 里塔尼亚、卡拉维塔和皮立翁。 值得一提的是,冬季旅行时,您不会与一百多人共进自助早 餐,目睹服务人员们手忙脚乱,为五十多张餐桌客人匆忙地提 供茶和咖啡。 最好的旅行并不仅仅是观光,而是一次探究,一场对话,试图 与陌生人建立某种亲密联系。 您将会看到、嗅到并品尝到自我世 界在另一种文化的延伸,开始探索世界并因此获得心理上的满 足与快感。在此冬季特刊中,我们强调身体与灵魂的共同旅行。 与我们一起在旅途中阅读并发现希腊。 最后,我要感谢我出色的工作人员,包括作家、摄影师、编 辑和助理等,尤其要感谢我的创意总监里奥,他们全身心投入 E.T.G.,同时要特别感谢E.T.G.的广告客户和读者朋友,在过去 六年中,感谢您一直的支持与温暖相伴。 希腊的温暖和美丽等待着您的光临。 阿蒂丽阿妮•奥尔范怒•祖娜丽 总编辑 Wintertime in Zagorohoria (Epirus). 扎戈罗霍里亚(伊庇 鲁斯)的冬季时光
an intimacy between strangers
最好的旅行是一次探究,
一场对话,一段与陌生人建立的亲密联系。 22 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
© PERIKLES MERAKOS
THE BEST OF TRAVELLING IS AN ENQUIRY; a conversation,
CULTURE
文化
盛事
When Jannis Psychopedis met Greek poet Kiki Dimoula. 当雅尼斯•普斯霍迪 雅斯遇上希腊诗人 奇奇•迪沐拉
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highlights
–by xenia georgiadou & dimitra tsaknaki– – 撰稿:海尼亚•伊奥依拉努 & 迪米特·查科娜基–
The poetic world of a painter
亚
画家的诗意世界
J
annis Psychopedis' affinity with poetry and the impact it had on his artistic world dates back to the early 1980’s. The exhibition “Jannis Psychopedis: Poetical Works - Painting Meets Poetry”, is organised in 22 sections including engravings, oil paintings, watercolours and portraits crafted by this notable Greek artist and explores his “conversation” with Greek and foreign poets who inspired him, such as Homer, Kalvos, Byron, Cavafy, Seferis, Elytis, Ritsos, Empirikos. NAT IONAL L IBRARY OF GRE E C E , S T AVROS NIARC HOS (Until 12/01/2020, nlg.gr, 希 腊 国 家 图 书馆,斯塔夫罗斯·尼亚乔斯基金会文化中心 snfcc.org)
尼斯·普斯赫百迪对 诗歌的爱好及其对 他艺术世界的影响可追溯 至19世纪80年代初期。展 览“亚尼斯·普斯赫百迪: 诗歌作品——当绘画遇上 诗歌”共分为22个部分,展 出这位著名希腊艺术家创 作的版画、油画、水彩画和 肖像画,并探讨画家与启 发他的众多希腊和外国诗 人之间的“对话”,包括荷 马,卡尔沃斯,拜伦,卡瓦 菲 ,塞 弗 里 斯 , 伊利蒂斯,里托 F OUNDAT ION C UL T URAL C E N TE R 斯, 艾比利考斯。 (直到2020年1月12日,nlg.gr,snfcc.org)
NIKOLA TESLA THE MAN FROM THE FUTURE
©JANNIS PSYCHOPEDIS
科塔纳斯古希 腊技术博物馆 ALTERNATING CURRENT, X-rays, radar, radio waves, wireless technologies: Much of the 20th century’s rapid technological advancement is owed to the genius of Serbian scientist Nikola Tesla. The Kotsanas Museum of Ancient Greek Technology in collaboration with the Nikola Tesla Museum in Belgrade, sheds light on the work and personality of the eccentric Serbian inventor who radically changed the modern world with his innovations. The exhibition “Nikola Tesla - The Man from the Future” includes a variety of exhibits, from scale models, such as his Colorado Springs laboratory, the hydroelectric plant at Niagara Falls, the vertical take-off plane, as well as fully-functioning models of his inventions like the induction motor and the Tesla coil. (Until 31/01/2020, kotsanasmuseum.com)
Nikola Tesla.
尼古拉·特拉斯。
Electrical Transmission of power, a Nikola Tesla patent (1888).
电力传输,尼古拉·特拉斯专利(1888) 。
交 流 电,X 射 线,雷 达,无 线 电波,无线技术:20世纪技术 的飞速发展大部分归功于塞 尔维亚天才科学家尼古拉· 特斯拉。科塔纳斯古希腊技 术博物馆与贝尔格莱德尼古 拉·特斯拉博物馆合作,展现 这位独特的塞尔维亚发明家 的创作与个性,他的创新从根 “尼古拉·特斯拉——来自未来的人” 本上改变了现代世界。展览“ 尼古拉·特斯拉——来自未来 的人”展出多种展品,包括比 Nikola's Tesla 例模型,如他的科罗拉多斯普林斯实验室,尼亚加拉 "Colorado Springs 瀑布水力发电厂,垂直起飞飞机以及众多功能齐全 laboratory". 的发明模型,例如感应电动机和特斯拉线圈。(直到 尼古拉·特拉斯“科罗 2020年1月31日,kotsanasmuseum.com) 拉多斯普林斯实验室”
K OTSAN AS MUSE UM OF ANC IE NT GRE E K TE C HNOL OGY
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“The Revenge of the Bat” by Johann Strauss.
约翰·斯特劳斯《蝙蝠的复仇》 。
Celebrating its 80th anniversary!
n the occasion of its 80th anniversary, the Greek National Opera (GNO) inaugurates a thrilling season with works from the classical operatic repertoire, exquisite samples 戏剧的魔力 of musical modernism, legendary operettas and popular ballets. The Greek National Opera had its official openGRE E K NAT IONAL OPE RA ing on the 5th of March 1940 and presented “The Revenge of the Bat” by Johann Strauss at the Royal 希腊国家歌剧院 Theatre (later National Theatre). This season’s anniversary will also be celebrated with the famous Viennese operetta, under the direction of Alexandos Efklidis, artistic director of the Alternative Stage of the GNO (07, 08, 09, 16, 19, 22 & 23/02 and 05/03/2020). This year’s repertoire also has prominent guests: Verdi’s magnificent opera “Don Carlo” presented in its five-act version and co-produced by the Royal Opera House, London, the New York Metropolitan Opera and the Norwegian National Opera, under the direction of the award-winning Sir Nicholas Hytner and with stunning sets and costumes by Bob Crowley. (Stavros Niarchos Hall: 08, 13, 15, 19, 21 29/12/2019 and 02, 05/01/2020). The Athenian audience also awaits the latest GNO production of Alban Berg’s “Wozzeck” with great anticipation and the charismatic Olivier Py assumes the direction. The opera, one of the pri“Swan Lake”. mary examples of musical modernism, is based on 《天鹅湖》 。 the incomplete theatrical play Woyzeck by Georg Büchner about the miserable life of a soldier in a rural town. In the title role, the internationally acclaimed Greek baritone Tassis Christogiannopoulos will be performing for the first time one of the most taxing roles in the modern repertory (19, 23, 26, 31/01 and 02/02/2020). Following last season’s sold out performances of the new reading of Tchaikovsky’s masterpiece “Swan Lake” undertaken by the GNO Ballet Director, Konstantinos Rigos, the show is presented once again. Excerpts from Petipa/Ivanov’s classical choreography engage in a dialogue with pieces reinterpreted in a neoclassical concept by the renowned Greek choreographer (22, 24, 26, 27, 29 & 31/12/2019). A new production of Ludwig Minkus’ “Don Quixote” with Marius Petipa’s original choreography will unfold on stage the love of Kitri for the barber Basilio. The set is designed by George Souglides and the costumes by the talented Greek fashion designer Mary Katrantzou (20, 21, 26, 29/03 and 05, 11, 26/04/2020, nationalopera.gr ). 28 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
在
其成立80周年之际,希腊国家歌剧 院(GNO)开创一系列激动人心的 节目,包括古典歌剧曲目、精美的现代主 义音乐、传奇轻歌剧与流行芭蕾舞作品。 希腊国家歌剧院于1940年3月5日正式 开幕,由约翰·施特劳斯在皇家剧院(后来 的国家大剧院)上演《蝙蝠的复仇》。本此 周年纪念庆祝活动也将由这部著名的维也纳轻歌剧开 启,希腊国家歌剧院替代舞台艺术总监亚历山大· 艾芙克里迪斯担任指导(07、08、09、16、19、22、 23/02和05/03/2020)。 今年剧目也吸引了众多来宾:威尔第的宏伟 歌剧《唐·卡洛》以五幕剧形式呈现,并由伦敦皇家歌 剧院、纽约大都会歌剧院和挪威国家歌剧院联合制 作,由屡获殊荣的尼古拉斯·希特纳爵士任指挥,鲍勃· 克劳利提供精美的舞台设置和服饰。 (斯塔夫罗斯•尼 亚尔霍斯大厅:08、13、15、19、21、29/12/2019和02、 05/01/2020)。 雅典观众也期待着阿尔班·伯格的《沃兹克》 ,由国家 歌剧院最新制作,充满魅力的奥利维尔·皮担任导演。 歌 剧是音乐现代主义的主要代表之一,这部作品基于格 奥尔格·布希纳残酷的戏剧《伍兹克》 ,讲述了一个士兵 在农村小镇上的悲惨生活。国际知名希腊男中音塔西 斯·克里斯托基安诺波洛斯将首次表演现代曲目中最 艰难的角色之一(19、23、26、31 / 01和02/02/2020)。 继上一季希腊国家歌剧院芭蕾舞团导演重塑柴可夫 斯基名作《天鹅湖》并热卖之后,康斯坦丁诺斯·里戈斯 再次出现。来自佩提帕和伊万诺夫的古典舞蹈节选与 著名希腊编舞家以新古典概念重新诠释的作品进行对 话(22、24、26、27、29、31/12/2019)。 路德维希·明库斯新作《唐吉诃德》与马里乌斯·佩蒂 帕原创舞蹈相结合, 在舞台上展现绮丽对理发师瓦斯里 奥的爱。 舞台设计由乔治·苏格里迪斯担任,服装设计为 才华横溢的希腊时装设计师玛丽·卡坦祖(20、21、26、 29/03和05、11、26/04/2020,nationalopera.gr)。 Verdi’s “Don Carlo”
威尔第《唐·卡洛》 。
©STEFANOS. AGGELOS CHRISTOFILOPOULOS. ©ROH PHOTO BY CATHERINE ASHMORE
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先驱克里斯 蒂安·泽沃斯 IN 1926, Christian Zervos from Kefalonia published the “Cahiers d’art” in Paris, a vanguard art journal with fine illustrations and analyses of aesthetic currents and trends over a wide time-frame, dating from prehistory up to his time. His previous experience as an editor in art publications gave him the opportunity to meet many pioneers of the avant-garde, including Picasso with whom he developed a close friendship until the BENAK I MUS E UM - 138 PIRE OS ST. end of his life. The exhibition titled “Christian Zervos & Cahiers d ‘Art. The Archaic Turn”, highlights 贝 纳 基 博 物 馆 —— P IREOS 街1 3 8 号 the impact the Greek publisher had on the connection between ancient Greek heritage and modern expression, and sheds light on his personal preferences through 60 works from his own collection created by famous artists: Giacometti, Brancusi, Matisse, Miró, Picasso, Laurens, Calder. (Until 01/03/2020, benaki.gr)
Painting and tapestry in Greece 希腊绘画与收藏
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his interesting exhibition titled “Weavings. Painting and tapestry in Greece from 1960 to the present”, is jointly organised by the Benaki Museum and Alpha Bank and highlights an unknown aspect of weaving production in Greece. Organised in three chronological sections, the exhibition narrative begins in 1960, where, for the first time, there is a strong interest in tapestries and great paintings by Moralis, Tsarouchis, Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas are recreated onto woven surfaces. In the next two decades, we follow the creation of handmade rugs on works by artists such as Dimitris Mytaras and Vasso Katraki, but also Greek artists who worked abroad like Kostas Koulendianos and Mario Prassinos who would give their designs to textile workshops, mainly in France. The third section has threedimensional textile works, highlighting the latest trends in fiber art. (Until 16/02/2020, benaki.gr)
这
个有趣的展览名为“编织,1960年至今的希腊绘画与挂毯”,由贝纳基博物馆和阿尔法银行联合组织, 重点介绍希腊编织生产中不为人知的一面。叙事型展览按时间顺序分为三个部分,始于1960年,当时 人们首次对挂毯产生了浓厚兴趣,莫拉利斯、沙鲁修斯和哈吉基里亚科斯·吉卡斯的伟大绘画作品被重新绘制 到织物表面。在接下来的二十年中,我们将跟随迪米特斯·米塔拉斯和瓦索斯·卡特拉斯等艺术家以及在国外 工作的希腊艺术家(如科斯达斯·库伦迪亚诺思和马里奥斯·普拉斯诺斯)的脚步欣赏他们的手工地毯作品,他 们将自己的设计交给纺织作坊,尤其是法国的作坊 。第三部分展现三维纺织作品,突出了纤维艺术的最新趋 势。 (直到2020年2月16日,benaki.gr)
1 9 2 6 年,来自凯法利尼亚岛的克里 斯蒂安·泽尔沃斯在巴黎出版了《艺 术报》 ,这是一本先锋艺术期刊,上面 有精美的插画,并分析了从史前时期 到他所在时期的整个审美潮流和趋 势。他以前曾担任艺术出版物编辑, 这样的经验使他有机会结识许多前 卫先驱人物,包括毕加索,他与毕加 索建立了深厚的友谊,直到其寿终正 寝。展览标题为“克里斯蒂安·泽尔沃 斯与艺术报” ,强调了这位希腊出版商 对古希腊文物与现代表达之间的联系 的影响,并通过他个人珍藏的60幅著 名艺术家作品表现其艺术偏好,包括 贾科梅蒂,布朗库西,马蒂斯,米罗,毕 加索,劳伦斯,卡尔德。 (直到2020年3 月1日,benaki.gr)
IN THE REALM OF THE SENSES 感官领域
“I
wasn’t breaking away from painting, I was trying to redefine what it was”, claimed Lynda Benglis, of Greek origin, when referring to the commentary instigated by her work as she appeared in the New York art scene in the late 60’s. Benglis was part of the abstract expressionism movement, but managed to push the gestural practices into new directions. She created M U S E U M O F CYCLADIC AR T sculptures from latex, 并没有远离绘画,而是在试图重新定义绘画。”祖籍希腊的琳 liquid floor paintings 达·本格里斯这样说道,她出现在60年代末纽约艺术界,对于 基克拉迪艺术博物馆 from polyurethane, works made of 由她作品而引发的一系列评论她做出了上述解释。本格里斯曾是抽象 gold leaf, tin and aluminium. The 表现主义运动的一部分,但她设法将姿态抽象实践推向了新方向。她 exhibition “Lynda Benglis: In the Realm of the Senses”, organised by 采用乳胶制作雕塑,以聚氨酯制作液体地板画,用金箔、锡和铝制成各 NEON and curated by author and art historian Dr. David Anfam, 种作品。由NEON组织并由作家兼艺术史学家戴维·安法姆策展的展 presents 30 pieces from her creative and inspiring journey spanning 览“琳达·本格里斯:感官领域”展示了她50多年创作和灵感旅程中的 over five decades. (Until 15/03/2020, cycladic.gr, neon.org.gr) 30件作品。 (直到2020年3月15日,cycladic.gr,neon.org.gr)
“我
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NIKOS NIKOLAOU HYDRA B, 1980S. ΤAPISSERIE © ALPHA BANK COLLECTION. SPYROS VASSILIOU, THE MERMAID, TAPISSERIE © ALPHA BANK COLLECTION. THE GRACES, 2003-2005 © LYNDA BENGLIS. LICENCED BY VAGA AT ARS, NY COURTESY CHEIM& READ, NEW YORK, KNOSSOS, 1978 PRIVATE COLLECTION, COURTESY OF KALFAYAN GALLERIES, ATHENS-THESSALONIKI, INSTALLATION VIEW © PANOSKOKKINIAS, COURTESY NEON
The pioneer Christian Zervos
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希腊宇宙文化中心
HELLE NIC C OS MOS C ULT URAL C E NT RE
C The history of Greek fashion 希腊时尚史
服
饰的褶皱、拜占庭式刺绣和希腊民间 肖像画图案都在“希腊时尚:100年的 灵感与创造”展览中得以展现。希腊世界基 金会与伯罗奔尼撒民俗基金会(PFF)合作, 寻求探索希腊城市和民间文化对服装的影 响,这曾经启发了大量服装制作者甚至来自 上个世纪的众多著名设计师。展出约140件 服装,大多数来自PFF藏品,追溯希腊历史 的重要结点:从米诺斯时期和迈锡尼时期到 古时代,穿越古典时期和古希腊时期,再到 拜占庭和奥斯曼帝国直至希腊的解放。展览 以20世纪后期和21世纪前20年的标志性服 饰为结尾。 (直到2020年1月31日,fhw.gr / cosmos /,pli.gr)
lothing folds, Byzantine embroidery and motifs of Greek folk iconography are reflected on the garments presented in the exhibition “Greek Fashion: 100 Years of Inspiration and Creation”. The Foundation of the Hellenic World, in collaboration with the Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation (PFF), seeks to explore the impact of Greek urban and folk culture on clothing items which inspired dressmakers, but also famous and anonymous designers of the past century. Approximately 140 garments -mostly from the PFF collection- trace the threads of significant chapters in Greek history: from the Minoan and Mycenaean periods, through to the Archaic era, classical antiquity, the Hellenistic period, then on to Byzantium and the Ottoman rule up to the liberation of Greece. The exhibition concludes with dresses from the late 20th and first two decades of the 21st century. (Until 31/01/2020, fhw.gr/cosmos/, pli.gr)
B. & M. THEO CHAR AKIS FO U NDAT ION FOR T HE FINE ART S AND MUSIC B.&M. 塞奥哈拉基斯美术音乐基金会
Qi Baishi’s “Mysterious East” THE THEOHARAKIS FOUNDATION in collaboration with the Fine Arts Academy of Beijing and the Greek-Chinese Association of Economic and Cultural Development, presents the work of the great Chinese painter Qi Baishi. The show “Qi Baishi. The Mysterious East”, exhibits 126 valuable paintings from his long artistic journey, highlighting his favourite themes, as well as his meticulous attention to detail. Born in 1863 into a poor agrarian family, his first contact with painting came when studying the “Mustard Seed Garden Manual of Painting” compiled during the early Qing Synasty. When in his 40’s, he devoted himself to art, depicting with his colourful brushwork the joy of life, as it was revealed to him in scenes with crickets and dragonflies, compositions with lotus flowers and peaches, as well as landscapes with wonderful gardens and imposing mountains. (Until 12/01/2020, thf.gr)
塞奥哈拉基斯基金会与北京美术学院和希中经济文化发展促进会合作,展 示伟大的中国画家齐白石的作品。画展“齐白石,神秘的东方”展出其漫长的 艺术旅程中126幅珍贵画作,突出了众多他最喜欢的绘画主题及其对细节 的关注。1863年出生于一个贫穷的农业家庭,齐白石与绘画的第一次接触 发生在研究清朝初期编纂的《芥末种园绘画手册》时。四十多岁时他开始致 力于艺术,以色彩缤纷的笔触描绘各种生活乐趣,例如蟋蟀和蜻蜓的生动场景,荷花和桃子的形象以及风景秀丽的花 园与壮丽的山川风景等。 (直到2020年1月12日,thf.gr)
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QI BAISHI’S MYSTERIOUS EAST, ©BEIJING FINE ART ACADEMY
齐白石“神秘的东方”
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AT HE NS C ONC E RT HALL 雅典音乐厅
Eminent guests 重要来宾
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为
了纪念有史以来最伟大的作曲家诞 生250周年,雅典国家管弦乐队将 在不同指挥家的带领下表演多首贝多芬著 名曲目,以5项献礼向天才音乐节贝多芬 致敬。 《 钢琴与管弦乐队协奏曲5》将脱颖 而出,由魅力超凡的指挥家克里斯托夫·埃 申巴赫带领气势宏伟的希腊团队进行合奏 (29/01/2020)。著名的巴尔塔萨尔·诺伊曼 合唱团与管弦乐队指挥家托马斯·亨格尔布 洛克也将来到雅典参加一场音乐会,向这位 古典主义音乐之父致敬,表演《田园交响曲》 及其代表作《C大调》 (12/02 / 2020)。雅典观 众们还等待着著名钢琴演奏家伊丽莎白·莱 昂斯卡贾的归来,完成著名的舒伯特奏鸣曲 (14/12/2019、17/02和11/03/2020)。还有 著名的贝雅特芭蕾舞团洛桑将访问雅典,首 次在雅典表演改编莫扎特歌剧《魔术长笛》 , 该芭蕾舞经典编舞艺术由该团队创始人莫 里斯·贝雅特创作(20-23&25-30/12/2019)。 土耳其钢琴家兼作曲家赛依将指挥世界上 最好的室内乐团之一圣马丁田野音乐学院 (25/01/2020),还有美国钢琴家兼20世纪 最具有标志意义的爵士音乐家奇克·科瑞亚 (07/04/2020,megaron.gr)。
he Athens State Orchestra will pay tribute to Beethoven’s genius by performing famous pieces with different conductors at the podium for for each one “Thee Magic Flute”. of the 5 tributes planned for 《魔术长笛》 the 250th anniversary celebrations from the birth of the greatest composer of all time. The “Piano and Orchestra Concerto no. 5” stands out with the charismatic conductor Christoph Eschenbach leading the magnificent Greek ensemble (29/01/2020). The director of the renowned Balthasar Neumann Choir and Orchestra, Thomas Hengelbrock, comes to Athens for a concert devoted entirely to the “father” of classicism, performing the “Pastoral Symphony” and the masterpiece “Mass in C major” (12/02/2020). The Athenian audience also awaits the return of the leading pianist Elisabeth Leonskaja to complete the kaleidoscope of Schubert’s sonatas (14/12/2019, 17/02 & 11/03/2020), as well as the famous Béjart NAT IONAL T HE AT RE , RE X - MARIKA KOT OPOULI STA G E Ballet Lausanne which will visit Athens to present the adaptation for ballet of Mozart’s opera “Thee Magic Flute” for the first time in Greece. The 国家剧院,REX-MA RIKA KOTOPOULI剧 场 now classical choreography was created by the group’s founder, Maurice Béjart (20-23 & 25-30/12/2019). Notable arrivals also include the Turkish pianist and composer Fazil Say, who conducts one of the world’s best chamber orchestras, the Academy of St. Martin in the Fields (25/01/2020), as well as the American pianist Chick Corea one of the most iconic jazz musicians of the 20th century (07/04/2020, megaron.gr).
Chinese carved fine art 中国雕刻艺术
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技艺精湛的中国工匠雕刻石头和 各种宝石(孔雀石,紫水晶,绿松石, 孔屑,青金石) ,还有白珊瑚和红珊 瑚,将其转变为各路神仙,神话动 物,华丽的花瓶以及装饰器皿。该展 览展示了中国微型宝石雕塑艺术, 展现了小雕像和装饰图案背后的信 息及其象征意义。 (从18/12/2019 到31/05/2020 byzantine 拜占庭和基督教博物馆 museum.gr)
BYZANTINE AND CHR ISTIAN MUS E UM
34 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
“THE NEW HOUSE”
he bankrupt aristocrat “新房子” Anzoletto and the cantankerous Cecilia are about to move into their new home. He is in love, but penniless and struggles to keep up with the demands of his vain wife. The trap of pretentiousness and the anxiety of climbing the social ladder are the main issues raised in the timeless and topical comedy “The New House” by Carlo Goldoni. As the director of this impressive National Theatre production Yiannis Skourletis notes: “This utopian home will never be inhabited. The ego’s desires are stronger than the desire of being together”. Performances on Thursdays and Saturdays are presented with English subtitles. (Until 09/02/2020, n-t.gr)
破
产的贵族安佐列托与贪婪的塞西莉亚即将搬入新家, 他陷入了爱情,却身无分文,只能努力满足他那虚荣 的妻子的任何要求。卡洛·戈多尼经典永恒喜剧片《新房子》 表现的正是这种自欺欺人的陷阱和攀登社交阶梯的焦虑。正 如这部令人印象深刻的国家剧院作品导演扬尼斯·斯库列提 指出: “这个乌托邦式的住所永远不会有人居住。自我的欲望 比在一起的欲望更强烈。”表演为周四和周六,带有英文字幕。 (直到2020年2月9日,n-t.gr)
©ANNE BICHSEL. PATROKLOS SKAFIDAS. NIKOS MYLONAS
MASTERFUL CHINESE CRAFTSMEN sculpt stones and minerals (malachite, amethyst, turquoise, chad, lapis lazuli), as well as white and red corals and transform them into celestial deities, mythological animals, ornate vases and decorative vessels. The exhibition displays the Chinese art of miniature gemstone sculpture and reveals the symbolisms and messages behind the figurines and decorative motifs. (From 18/12/2019 to 31/05/2020, byzantinemuseum.gr)
构成您旅行全程最后记忆的最美好的宾馆 欧洲历史首都心脏的永恒优雅之地 得缘一睹这闻名天下的希腊雅典地标性的大不列颠酒店,在此感受您生命中无可替代的美好时分, 至尊的住宿体验,放飞内心的自由感受。在大不列颠酒店享受雅典锦鳞闪烁的壮丽山海之景, 发现雅典这个充满活力城市的动人侧影。
MH.T.E.: 0206K015A0021500
请 浏 览 网 址 : GRANDEBRETAGNE.GR
– C U LT U R E –
– 文化 –
highlights
盛事
Humankind and MARBLE
LINDA KAPETANEA*, DANCER AND CO-FOUNDER OF THE ROOTLESSROOT GROUP, WILL PRESENT THE DANCE PERFORMANCE TITLED “STONES & BONES” THIS COMING APRIL AT THE STEGI ONASSIS FOUNDATION. WE SAT DOWN FOR A BRIEF CHAT WITH HER.
How did the inspiration come up for the onstage face-off with a material that has a strong symbolism for Greece? Theatre uses hollow objects and fake materials to create illusion. We don’t. Since the beginning of our creative journey, we have always been inclined to use raw materials because they are impossible to conquer. This time we will use five female performers, their strength and intelligence to move these heavy, but incredibly beautiful sculptures/objects. Moving them on stage is overwhelming and noisy. They are ancient instruments, yearly drums, a long memory of the earth. Their presence creates sound. Marble is a material with a highly symbolic meaning for Greece, but it is also the stone of European culture. All our “temples” are built with it. So it is nice to break them. What feature of marble fascinates you? White marble is believed to have strong metaphysical qualities of grounding and calming. It provides for strength of self control and mastery of thought. That is the usual description. But for us marble is brutal, heavy and does not allow for mistakes. All our thoughts in this creation are centered around it. What is the connecting thread of all the group’s performances in your opinion? Up until now, the RootlessRoot language
MODE RN DANC E 现代舞
Linda Kapetanea & Jozef Frucek (RootlessRoot)
舞蹈家兼RootlessRoot公司 联合创始人琳达·卡贝塔尼亚* 将于今年4月在奥纳西斯基金 会表演名为“石头与骨头”的舞蹈表演。我们坐下来与她简短地聊天。 当面对舞台上具有强烈希腊象征意义的材料时,灵感是如何产生的?剧 院一般使用空心物体和假模型材料制造幻觉,但我们没有。自从我们的 创意之旅开始以来,我们一直倾向于使用真正的原材料,因为它们不可 征服。这次,我们将使用五位女性表演者,以她们的力量和才智来移动这 些沉重但令人难以置信的精美雕塑或物体。在舞台上移动它们非常困难 且有噪音。它们是古老的乐器,一年一度的鼓声代表着地球悠久的记忆。 他们的存在创造了声音。大理石是对希腊具有高度象征意义的材料,也 involved a dynamic, contact-oriented articulation with which we 是欧洲文化的基石。我们所有的“庙宇”都以此为基础,所以打破它们时 could express the complex emotional landscape of humankind. 无与伦比。 Reaching deep into the physical and emotional possibilities of 大理石的什么特性令你着迷?大家认为白色大理石具有强烈的形而上学 the human structure, we consider the Body to be an extension of 特性,如接地和镇静。它提供了自我控制和掌握思想的力量,那是通常的 our ideas; a physical interpretation of our 描述。但对我们来说,大理石是残酷的,沉重的,不允许产生任何 intellectual concepts. It is our tangible body 错误。我们在此创作中所有的思考都围绕着它。 *LINDA KAPETANEA that initiates the whole idea and concept 在你看来,连接团队所有演出的那条线是什么?到目前为 is also the artistic director of of the performance. It is the Body itself 止,RootlessRoot的表达方式是动态的,且以接触为导向,我们 the Kalamata International that feels disturbed and upset by being 以这种方式来表达人类复杂的情感环境。深入了解人体结构的生 Dance Festival (kalamata constantly filled up with wasteful concepts, 理和情感可能性,我们认为身体是思想的延伸,是我们智力概念 dancefestival.gr) thoughts and food, with no space to exist, 的物理表现。是我们有形的身体引发了表演的整体思想和观念。 *琳达·卡贝塔尼亚还担 no place for quietness and listening. 是我们的身体不断忍受着挥霍的概念、思想和食物,我们没有生 任卡拉马塔国际舞蹈节 01-05/04/2020, Stegi - Onassis Foundation, 存空间,没有静默和聆听的空间,因而感到不安和沮丧。 (kalamatadancefestival. onassis.org 01-05/04/2020, 奥纳西斯基金会,onassis.org gr)艺术总监。 36 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
© MIKE RAFAIL. KEVIN DEERY AND MIKE RAFAIL
人类与大理石
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GREECE
in the world –by xenia georgiadou– – 撰稿:海尼亚•伊奥依拉努–
希腊
B ER L I N , A L TE S M U S E U M 柏 林,阿 尔 特 斯 博 物 馆
Image making in ancient Greece 古希腊的图像制作
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hat did Homer look like? Or Plato? Was Alcibiades really so handsome? The way in which ancient Greeks would portray actual persons influenced portraiture from the Renaissance to the present day. However, the depictions of prominent figures were almost never photorealistic. Social status, age, as well as the place of installation of a statue, were factors that could alter the actual features of the models. The exhibition “Tough Types. Portraits of Ancient Greeks”, illustrates the evolution of portraiture in ancient Greece, as well as the way in which the portrait of a political leader or philosopher was rendered. (Until 27/09/2020, smb.museum) 38 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
荷
马长什么样?柏拉图呢?亚西 比德真的那么帅吗?古希腊人 刻画真实人物的方式影响了从文艺 复兴时期直至今天的肖像画创作。但 是,对杰出人物的描绘几乎从来都不 是真实的。社会地位、年龄以及雕像 的安装地点都可能是改变实际特征 的因素。展览“艰难的类型,古希腊肖 像雕塑”展示古希腊肖像的演变,体 现政治领袖或哲学家肖像雕塑的绘 制方式。 (直到2020年9月27日,smb. museum)
Experimental and reconstructive infusion of the bronze warrior Riace A.
重塑青铜战士Riace A雕塑。
© FRANKFURT AM MAIN, LIEBIGHAUS SKULPTURENSAMMLUNG, DAUERLEIHGABE DES MUSEO NAZIONALE ARCHEOLOGICO REGGIO CALABRIA, FOTO: LIEBIEGHAUS SKULPTURENSAMMLUNG, FRANKFURT AM MAIN, POLYCHROMY RESEARCH PROJECT
世界眼中的
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Myths and truths about Troy
MYTHS AND TRUTHS ABOUT TROY, © THE TRUSTEES OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM. THE GREEK OF THE SPANISH RENAISSANCE, © LEEDS, HAREWOOD HOUSE. POMPEI AND SANTORINI, © EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF CYCLADES.
he legend of Troy has been alive for more than 3,000 years. The embroilment of the glorious city in a decade-long war with the Greeks over Paris’s abduction of Helen, daughter of Spartan king Tyndareus, and its devastating downfall, have been at the core of many narratives from Homer and Virgil, to Shakespeare and Hollywood. The exhibition “Troy: Myth and Reality”, follows the footsteps of researchers and archaeologists in search of the lost city, beginning with Heinrich Schliemann’s excavations on the coast of Asia Minor in 1870, and through 300 objects -archaeological artifacts and works of art-, it examines all the myths that have been handed down through the ages surrounding the dramatic destruction of Troy. (Until 08/03/2020, britishmuseum.org)
特洛伊神 话与真相
特
洛伊传奇已存在 3 0 0 0 多 年,这 座 光 彩夺目的城市在希腊人因 帕里斯绑架斯巴达国王丁 达鲁斯之女海伦而遭受长达 十年之久的战争,连同其毁灭 性衰落一直是从荷马、维吉尔、 莎士比亚到今天好莱坞的众多 创作故事的核心。展览“特洛伊: 神话与真相”跟随研究人员和考古 学家的脚步,寻找这座失落的城市, 始于1870年海因里希·施利曼在小亚 细亚海岸的考古发掘,并通过300件物品 (包括考古文物和艺术品)考察了围绕特 洛伊戏剧性毁灭而长期流传下来的所有神话。 (直到2020年3月8日,britishmuseum.org)
L ONDON, T HE BRIT IS H MUSE UM 伦敦,大英博物馆
The Greek of the Spanish Renaissance 西班牙文艺复兴时期的希腊人
DOMENIKOS THEOTOKOPOULOS, the precursor of modernism, had been forgotten for more than two centuries after his death. The retrospective “Greco” – the first major survey held in France dedicated to the Spanish Renaissance mastery – traces his early years in Chandax in Crete, his study of the Byzantine tradition, his crossover to Italy and apprenticeship with Titian, and how he defined his personal style which coincided with his settling in Spain in 1577. The exhibition narrative showcases the artistry of his paintings and links his oeuvre to avant-garde movements: from cubism, phobism and expressionism, to abstract art. It is evident that El Greco is a rare example of an everlasting contemporary painter. (Until 10/02/2020, grand palais.fr)
多科普洛斯·狄奥托科 普 洛,现 代 主 义 先 驱, 在其去世后被遗忘了两 个多世纪。回顾展“格列 柯 ”—— 第 一 个 在 法 国 举行的关于西班牙文 艺复兴时期的研究—— 追溯了他在克里特岛 Chandax的早年作为, 他致力于对拜占庭传统的研究,跨越意大利成为 巴黎,巴黎大皇宫 著名画家提香的学徒,以及如何确定其个人风格, 此时刚好是他定居至西班牙的1577年。叙事性展览表现 了他的绘画艺术,并将其作品与先锋派运动联系起来: 从立体派、恐惧症和表现主义到抽象艺术。很明显,埃尔·格列柯是当代画 家的永恒代表。 (直到2020年2月10号,grandpalais.fr)
PARIS, GRAND PALAIS
POMPEII AND SANTORINI
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he parallel tragic fates of two thriving cities in antiquity – Pompeii and Akrotiri in Santorini – 1700 years apart, the story of their discovery under layers of volcanic ash and the impact their 庞贝城和圣 dramatic disappearance had on modern and contemporary art are the subject 托里尼岛 matter of the impressive exhibition “Pompeii and Santorini: Eternity in a Day”, presented at the Scuderie del Quirinale. Ceramics, jewellery, everyday objects and murals recreate the living environment of these two cities, providing information regarding their social and economic structure. (Until 06/01/2020, scuderiequirinale.it)
相
距1700年,两座 繁荣古代城市( 庞贝城和圣托里尼岛 的阿克罗蒂里)的悲惨 罗马,奎里纳勒博物馆 命运并存,它们在火山 灰层下被发现的故事 及其戏剧性消失对现代和当代艺术的影响成为奎里 纳勒博物馆展览“庞贝和圣托里尼:一天中的永恒” 的主题。陶瓷、珠宝、日常用品和壁画再现了两座古 城的生活环境,提供了关于其社会和经济结构的众 多信息。 (直到2020年1月6号,scuderiequirinale.it)
ROME , S CU DE R I E DE L Q U I R I N A LE
ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE /
39
– GREECE –
世界眼中的
– 希腊 –
in the world
In the exhibition area. 展品区。
Terracotta sculpture, 600-500 BC.
陶土雕塑,公元前 600-500年。
Plate with fish, Paphos.
带有鱼装饰图案的盘子,帕福斯。
LE IDE N/HOLLAND, RIJKSMUSE UM VAN OUDHE DE N 荷兰莱顿,荷兰国家古物博物馆
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The strategic location of Cyprus
ituated between three continents, Cyprus’s geopolitical location has profoundly influenced its cultural profile. Being a central hub of trade, on 塞浦路斯的战略位置 the crossroads of different Mediterranean traditions, it has a rich history spanning over 12,000 years. The exhibition “Cyprus: A Dynamic Island” at the National Museum of Antiquities in the Netherlands, features 300 valuable archaeological masterpieces from the island’s national collections, which reflect the influences neighbouring countries had on the birthplace –according to myth– of Aphrodite, during different historical periods, and testify to its wealth. (Until 15/03/2020, rmo.nl)
THE TRUTH OF DE CHIRICO
“Bathers on the Beach”, 1934
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Self Portrait, 1924/25
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"The Shores of Thessaly", 1926
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40 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
浦路斯地处三大洲之间,其地缘政治 深刻影响了其文化形象。作为贸易的 中心枢纽,深受地中海各文明传统的影响, 它拥有超过12,000年的悠久历史。荷兰国家 古物博物馆展览“塞浦路斯:一个充满活力 的岛屿”展出该岛国家藏品中的300幅珍贵 考古杰作,反映了邻国对阿芙罗狄蒂出生地( 根据神话)在不同历史时期产生的影响,并展 示其财富。 (直到2020年3月15日,rmo.nl)
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德·基里科的真相 iorgio de Chirico’s dreamy and cryptic universe is showcased in a magnificent exhibition named after him: “De Chirico”. More than 92 masterpieces spread across eight halls, trace the path of this great artist, from his early years at the Athens School of Fine Arts, up to his grand enigmatic compositions. Born in Volos in 1888, de Chirico was one of the most fascinating figures of modern art who paved a solitary road, far from norms and artistic trends. Ultimately, his metaphysical painting had a profound impact on the Surrealists, including Max Ernst, Salvador Dali and René Magritte. (Until 19/01/2020, palazzorealemilano.it)
塞
MIL AN, PALA ZZO R E A LE
乔
米兰,皇家宫
治·德·基里科梦幻而神秘的宇宙在以他命名的宏伟展览“德·基里科”中 得以展示。超过92个杰作分布在八个大厅中,追溯这位伟大艺术家的足 迹,从他早起在雅典美术学院的经历到后来宏伟的神秘作品。德·基里科于1888 年出生于沃洛斯,是现代艺术中最迷人的人物之一,他们开辟了一条孤独的道路, 远离规范和传统艺术潮流。最终,他形而上学的绘画方式对马克斯·恩斯特、萨尔瓦 多·达利和雷内·马格利特等超现实主义者产生了深远的影响。 (直到2020年1月19 日,palazzorealemilano.it)
THE STRATEGIC LOCATION OF CYPRUS, FROM LEFT: © LEVENTIS MUNICIPAL MUSEUM NICOSIA, ©MUSEUM VOORLINDEN, WASSENAAR, ©CYPRUS MUSEUM, NICOSIA. ΤHE TRUTH OF DE CHIRICO, © G. DE CHIRICO BY SIAE 2019
Υves Klein, Blue Venus
Yves Klein, 蓝色的金星。
世界眼中的
– 希腊 –
– GREECE –
in the world
NE W Y ORK, T HE ME T ROPOLIT AN MUS E U M OF A R T 纽约,大都会艺术博物 馆
基克拉迪珠宝
T
he impressive exhibition “Vanity. Stories of Jewellery in the Cyclades” presented by the Ephorate of Antiquities of the Cyclades, moves to the Guangdong Museum in the city of Guangzhou in southern China, in order to unfold the history of jewellery in the Cycladic region, from the perspective of human vanity, man’s need to adorn the body, to charm and to asPendant in the form of a bull’s sert. The exhibition narrative begins head. Naxos, at the Neolithic period, moves to 1400-1100 BC. the geometric period, the archaic 牛头形状的坠 饰,纳克索斯岛, and classical times and reaches the 公元前1400Greek medieval era, the period of 1100年。 Venetian rule and the folk art of modern times. Bone fibulas from Delos, faience GUANGZHOU/C HINA, GUANGDONG MUSE UM bead necklaces 人 印 象 深 刻 的 展 览“名 利 from Thira, silver 场,基克拉迪珠宝的故事” 中国广州,广东博物馆 bracelets with 由基克拉迪文物研究所举办,今天在位于中国南 zoomorphic 方广州市的广东博物馆得以呈现,从人类虚荣心 terminals from 的角度展现基克拉迪地区的珠宝历史,即人类需要装饰 Rineia, ornate 身体,以展现魅力和主张。叙事性展览始于新石器时代, a mu l e t s f ro m 之后到几何时期、古代和古典时期,最终达到希腊中世 Milos and 19th 纪、威尼斯统治时期以及现代民间艺术。来自德洛斯的 century earrings 腓骨,来自司拉的彩陶珠项链,来自利尼亚的具有动物形 from Mykonos, 态的银手镯,来自米洛斯的华丽护身符以及来自米科诺 with influences 斯的受到外国文化影响的19世纪耳环,这些都证明了很 by foreign cul长时间内甚至直至20世纪初以来流行的珠宝设计趋势以 tures, are all a 及设计材料。 (直到2020年2月16号,gdmuseum.com) testament to the prevailing design trends and materials used throughout the ages, up to the dawn of the 20th century. (Until 16/02/2020, gdmuseum.com)
令
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雅典卫城水彩画 THE SWISS watercolourist painter Émile Gilliéron settled in Athens in 1877. He was hired as an art teacher in the royal court, while at the same time, he would paint views of the city’s archaeological sites. He also designed a series of collector stamps for the first modern Olympic Games. During his career, he collaborated with Heinrich Schliemann in excavations, preserved frescoes in Knossos with his son, but also reproduced artifacts in marvelous detail that came to light in archaeological excavations. The exhibition “Watercolors of the Acropolis: Émile Gilliéron in Athens”, includes five large-scale watercolours depicting architectural and sculptural details of the monument. Apart from the historical value of these paintings, it is also worthwhile seeing the traces of original colour with which the marbles were painted and later rendered onto the painting surface. (Until 03/01/2020, metmuseum.org)
瑞士水彩画家埃米尔·吉列隆于1877 年在雅典定居,他被皇家法院聘为美 术老师,同时他以水彩绘制这座城市 的众多考古遗迹,他还为首届现代奥 运会设计了一系列集邮邮票。在其职 业生涯中,他与海因里希·施利曼合 作,与他的儿子在克诺索斯挖掘并保 存壁画,并且精确地复制了众多伟大 的考古发现。展览“雅典卫城水彩画: 雅典的米尔·吉列隆”展出五幅大型 水彩画,描绘卫城建筑与雕塑细节。 这些绘画作品除了具有历史价值外, 更再现了大理石原始彩绘渲染至绘 画表面的色彩痕迹。 (直到2020年1月 3日,metmuseum.org)
Beads of glass, carnelian, stone and faience. Thera. Archaic period. 玻璃念珠,玛瑙念珠,宝石念珠, 法朗斯念珠。锡拉岛,古风时代。
THE CYCLADIC JEWELLERY, © EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF CYCLADES. WATERCOLOURS OF THE ACROPOLIS, THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART, DODGE FUND, 1919 (19.195.1)
The Cycladic jewellery
"WATERCOLORS OF THE ACROPOLIS"
基里姆地毯店
营业时间:周一至周日11 am-7pm 普拉卡:34 Vasilisis Amalias Av (宪法广场或雅典卫城地铁站)
AION 1922精品店坐落于雅典市中心,营造了一个关于传统地毯和基里姆
地毯的神奇世界。 我们提供以传统手工艺制作精美的经典和现代纯手工地 毯。我们的家族拥有3个多世纪的历史,是最古老的地毯和基里姆地毯制造 商之一,我们的产品同时出口到欧洲市场。我们的品牌名称标志着我们悠久 的历史,aion(αιών)一词在希腊语中意为“世纪” ,我们于1922年在希腊成 立。我们所有的地毯均附带官方证书及其有关制作工艺的特定信息。我们同 时提供免税信息和免费送货服务。
– TRAILBLAZERS –
– 开拓者 –
SMART & successful
聪明而成功
年轻的希腊企业家深爱自己的祖国,并以最伟大 的创意向全世界展示希腊。是时候认识他们了! vioma.gr
YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS WHO LOVE THEIR HOMELAND AND WHO IMPLEMENT GREAT IDEAS IN ORDER TO PRESENT TO THE WORLD THE BEST OF WHAT GREECE HAS TO OFFER. HERE’S A CHANCE TO GET TO KNOW THEM!
VIOMA: 来自纳克索斯 岛,充满爱意
1. THE ESSENTIALS FOR COOKING.
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烹饪的秘密。
2. DILL IS USED IN MANY GREEK RECIPES. 莳萝被用在很多希腊美味佳肴中。
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3. KATERINA ANDRIELOU 卡特琳娜·安迪璐
vioma.gr
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VIOMA: From Naxos with love The word “vioma” comes from the verb βιώ [vio, bio], which means to “live”. It is the experience we gain throughout our lives which forms our character and gives unique meaning to our daily life. With this in mind, Katerina Andrielou from Naxos, the largest island of the Cyclades, has created Vioma, which provides experiences to all those who want to immerse themselves in the Naxian way of life. As she herself points out: “On an island where history has helped form a rich and vibrant cultural bedrock, our eclectic gastronomy and multifaceted culture allow us to generously share our wealth with our friends. Cookery lessons, activities and cultural events take place all year round in selected areas of Naxos, enabling visitors to familiarise themselves with the island’s natural wealth”. And she tells us more: 4. GREEK SYRUPY SWEETS.
希腊糖浆甜点。
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“ vioma”一词来自希腊 语动词βιώ[vio,bio],意 思是“活着”。各种各样的 人生经历形成了我们的 性格,并赋予了我们日常 生活独特的意义。基于这 一点,来自基克拉迪群岛 最大岛屿纳克索斯岛的 卡特琳娜·安迪璐创建了 Vioma,为想要体验纳克 索斯生活方式的人们提 供了机会。正如她本人所 说: “历 史 造 就 了 纳 克 索 斯岛丰富而充满活力的文 化,在这样一个小岛上,我 们的精致美食和文化多样 性使得我们愿意与朋友们 慷慨分享我们的财富。每 一年,纳克索斯岛不同地 区都举办烹饪课程和各种 文化活动,使游客了解这 座岛屿的自然财富。”除此 之外,她还告诉我们更多:
How did you come up with the idea of creating Vioma? It was a combination of our love for the authentic Naxos, the local cuisine and an innate need for communication. We also love to travel and during one trip we took part in a wine tasting. That’s when we said “and why not in Naxos?”. Another favourite winter habit, is having friends over and cooking together from morning to night. Are the recipes in your cooking class exclusively from Naxos, or from the whole of Greece? We try to offer only local recipes. But is it ever possible to leave out tzatziki or moussaka? We love the Greek cuisine, so we want our customers to try our favourites.
5 5. COOKING LESSONS. 烹饪课。
6. SPINACH AND CHEESE PIE.
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菠菜奶酪派。
7 How many different “products” have you created and which one do you think has the most appeal to foreign visitors to the island? We go by the recipes of our ancestors and many that have been entrusted to us by the locals. We love the baby goat in lemon sauce with potatoes, the rooster in red sauce with pasta and our pies. Where do most of your customers come from? From all over the world: America, South Africa, Australia, Asia, Europe. Which are the three Naxian products one should try before leaving the island? Cheese, baby goat, potatoes. And your favourite part of the island? Every part! What to choose first… The wonderful beaches? The picturesque villages? The cosmopolitan Chora? What are your plans/ideas for the future? To have more open houses and bring the visitors closer to the locals. That way they can live unique experiences and become part of our culture. What makes you happy today? Everything! Making contact with all these different people. The fact that I daily visit the most beautiful parts of my island. The fact that we try unique products.
7. THE STARTERS; GREEK SALAD, CHEESE, TZATZIKI, WINE. 开胃菜:希腊沙拉,奶酪,酸奶黄瓜酱,葡萄酒。
8. KATERINA WORKS ON DESIGNING NEW EXPERIENCES. 卡特琳娜正在设计新的体验方案。
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您 是 如 何 想 到 创 建 Vioma?源于我们对纳克 索斯的热爱,结合了当地 美食以及与生俱来的交流 的需求。我们也很喜欢旅 行,在一次旅行中,我们参 加了一个品酒会,就在那 时我们想到“为什么不在 纳克索斯岛举行?”。另外 我在冬天很喜欢的一个习 惯是与朋友聚会,大家从 早到晚一起做好吃的。 您烹饪课程中的食谱只来 自纳克索斯还是包括整个 希腊?我们尝试仅提供纳 克索斯当地食谱,但我们 怎么可能不提酸奶黄瓜和 穆沙卡?我们太喜欢希腊 美食了,所以希望我们的 顾客能有机会尝试我们的 最爱。 您创造了多少种“产品”, 您认为哪种最吸引该岛 的外国游客?我们遵循最 传统的食谱以及当地人 托付给我们的许多古老食 谱。我们喜欢柠檬酱山羊 肉炖土豆,鸡肉红酱汁意 大利面和各种美味馅饼。 您的客户大多来自哪里? 来 自 世 界 各 地 :美 国,南 非,澳大利亚,亚洲,欧洲。 离 开 岛 屿 前 最 不 能 错过哪三种食物? 奶 酪 、小 山 羊 肉 和 土 豆 。 您最喜欢纳克索斯岛什 么? 全部!如果要排名的 话,优美的海滩?风景如画 的村庄?郝拉城? 您对未来有什么计划或想 法?想拥有更多的开放式 房屋,让游客更接近当地 人。这样他们就可以享有 更特别的体验,成为我们 文化的一部分。 今天什么让您感到快乐? 所有的一切!与不同的人 打交道;可以都可以参观 这个岛上最美丽的地方; 以及尝试最独特的产品。
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– TRAILBLAZERS –
– 开拓者 – plantbox.gr
PLANTBOX: 环游世界 的橄榄 2 0 1 6 年 ,来 自 K a m a r i Korinthias的瓦斯里奥 斯·齐巴斯继承其家族传 统,成立了齐巴斯绿色投 资集团(Tsipas Green Investment Group™), 专注于农产品的生产、销 售及再分销。2018年,他 自豪地宣布世界上第一棵 包装齐全且完全存活的橄 榄树盆栽诞生,品牌名为 PlantBox©。他在访谈中 回答了我们所有问题:
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PLANTBOX: The olive travels the world In 2016, Vasileios Tsipas from Kamari Korinthias, continuing his family tradition, founded Tsipas Green Investment Group™, which focuses on the production, sales and redistribution of agricultural products. In 2018, he proudly announced the first packaged and fully living bonsai-sized Olive Tree in the world, under the brand name PlantBox©. He answers all our queries in the following mini interview: How did it all start? How did you get the idea of creating this unique packaged plant? It all started in 2011, when after several deliberations, we realised that there is a group of people and entrepreneurs who are after unique products linked to values and history, and that if we could make use of the typical Greek olive tree and transform it into a tourist item, then we could appeal to a broader market. So the idea was to create a new type of living souvenir based on the olive tree. How easy was it to implement? In order to create this product we had to experiment for a long time, both in plant breeding techniques and technologies 46 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
for mass production quantities, as well as for the safe preservation of the packaged plants with no water or sunlight, but also cater to the needs of transportation and exportation. What does one receive when ordering a PlantBox? When ordering an olive tree from our company PlantBox, the customer receives a pot with a living, fully developed Greek variety olive plant, no larger than 17cm in size, in recyclable packaging along with instructions for replanting and maintenance. How durable is it and how much care does it require? Olive trees are known for their durability. Of course they won’t survive outdoors for a long period of time, unless they are in temperate, tropical areas or areas with tropical conditions. They can, however, grow in pots and develop according to the customer’s wishes. They can be shaped and maintained with bonsai techniques and even grow naturally as trees. Just the basics are required for their care: no fre-
一切是如何开始的?您是 怎么想到创建这种独特 的包装植物的?一切始于 2011年,经过几次审议, 我们意识到有企业家客户 群体追求与价值和历史相 关的独特产品,如果我们 可以利用典型的希腊橄榄 树并将其转变为一个旅游 项目,那么我们就可以吸 引更广阔的市场。因此,我 们的想法是基于橄榄树创 建一种新型的“活着”的纪 念品。 实施起来容易吗?为了生 产这种产品,我们必须进 行长时间试验,包括植物 育种技术和批量生产技 术,以及在没有水和阳光 1. PLANTBOX IS READY TO TRAVEL. PLATBOX准备出发。
2. CULTIVATING BONSAISIZED OLIVE TREES. 培育橄榄树迷你盆栽。
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Avgotaraho,也被称为“希腊 鱼子酱” ,是希腊迈索隆吉地 区最精致也最著名的美食。这 是一种纯天然产品,由鱼卵酿 制而成,浸入天然蜂蜡中得以 保存。其卓越的品质和独特的 风味使其成为鱼产业中最精 致的美食之一。此外,由于含 有丰富的维生素E、维生素C 以及omega 3多不饱和脂肪, 被认为是高能量和高营养价 值美食。 自2011年以来,来自迈索隆吉 地区的Avgotaraxo.gr公司就 活跃于鱼卵和其他优质当地 产品生产领域,例如茴香酒、 七浦路烈酒和盐花等。基于长 期积累的丰富专业知识以及 对产品高质量的追求,他们精 心设计了“鱼籽酱精选” ,挑 选一系列最高品质鱼籽酱产 品采用精致金色包装,又被称 为“来自泻湖的黄金” 。
Greece's top delicacies 希腊顶级美食
Avgotaraho, also known as the “Greek caviar”, is Messolonghi’s finest and most famous delicacy. A natural product derived from stuffed fish eggs dipped in natural beeswax for preservation. Its excellent quality and unique flavour make it one of the finest gourmet treats of the fishing trade. Furthermore, it is considered a source of significant energy and high nutritional value, as it contains an increased amount of vitamins E and C, as well as omega 3 polyunsaturated fat. The company Avgotaraxo.gr has been active since 2011 in the field of fish roe and other fine regional products from Messolonghi, such as Pelada ouzo and Pelada tsipouro, flower of salt globally known as “Fleur de sel” etc. Thanks to their accumulated knowledge, expertise and pursuit of high quality, they have created the “Botargo Gold Selection”, a selection of high quality avgotaraho packed in gold bars, as it is regarded the “lagoon’s gold”.
avgotaraxo.gr | pelada.gr
quent watering, access to the sun - even indirectly -, good ventilation if placed indoors, regular pruning and fertilization. What does the olive tree mean to you? The olive tree means everything to me. It is a plant used and exploited everyday, it is a symbol of the values we stand for, a part of our daily life and culture, but mainly, it has showed us the way to innovate and to create a global product of high added value, based on traditional principles. Which are the Greek values that travel along with your small olive? Hellenism formulated and stood for a plethora of values, most of which have spread worldwide and have been integrated into the values of other peoples. Ever since antiquity, many of these values have been associated with the most typical Greek land plant, the olive tree. We want our small olives to travel all over the world as ambassadors of peace, respect and solidarity for the mutual development of cultures and to promote a value system for people’s eating habits that will contribute to a healthier food production and consumption for the benefit of society. Which are the most unusual places you have shipped your boxes to? As far as we know, the most unusual places our plants have reached are Sri Lanka and the Togolese Republic. Which is the most significant distinction you have received so far? There have been many distinctions over the last couple of years, both in Greece and
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3. VASILEIOS TSIPAS. 瓦斯里奥斯·齐巴斯 。
4. A LIVING SOUVENIR. 活着的纪念品 。
5. OPENING THE PLANTBOX.
打开PLANTBOX 。
5 abroad. The most significant ones are from the E.U. and the department of Rural and Sustainable Development, but also from the Ministry of Rural Development of the People’s Republic of China. Future goals/ideas to be implemented? Our immediate goals are to find a strategic investor for the rapid growth of our production volume, allowing us to expand into large markets like America and China, to continue the development of plant maintenance technologies and to develop new products based on the culture of Greece, as well as the culture of other nations. What makes you happy today? I’m happy being able to work out in nature, seeing my plants grow every day as they prepare for a journey around the world. In addition, happiness is when you receive messages from all over the world, thanking us for giving them the opportunity to acquire a living global symbol. 48 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
的情况下安全保存植物的 包装方式,同时还要满足 运输和出口需求。 当客户订购PlantBox时 他最终会收到什么?当客 户从我们PlantBox公司 订购橄榄树盆栽时,对方 会收到一个花盆,上面装 有可存活的且完全成熟的 希腊品种橄榄树,尺寸不 超过17厘米,并带有可回 收利用的包装以及种植和 保养说明。 它可以存活多久,该如何 护理?橄榄树以其耐用性 著称。当然,除非在温带、 热带地区或热带条件下的 地区,否则它们将无法长 时间在户外生存。但是它 们可以根据客户的意愿在 花盆中生长和发育。可以 通过盆景技术进行塑造和 维护,甚至可以自然生长 为树木。只需要基本的护
理即可:不需要经常浇水, 需要放置在阳光直射或者 间接接触阳光的地方,如 果放置室内需要良好的通 风,定期修剪和施肥。 橄榄树对您来说意味着什 么?橄榄树对我来说意味 着一切。它是每天使用和 开发的植物,是我们价值 观的象征,是我们日常生 活和文化的一部分,最重 要的是,它向我们展示了 基于传统原则以创新方式 创造高附加值全球产品的 途径。 您通过小橄榄树盆栽想传 达哪些希腊价值观?希腊 化代表了许多价值观念, 其中许多已传播至世界各 地,并融入其他民族的价 值观念中。自古以来,许多 价值都与希腊最典型的陆 地植物橄榄树有关。我们 衷心希望我们的小橄榄作 为和平、尊重和团结的大 使在世界各地旅行,以促 进各地文化的共同发展, 提倡建立良好饮食习惯的 价值体系,这将有助于更 健康的食品生产和消费, 造福整个社会。 橄榄树盆栽到达过的最不 寻常的地方是哪里?据我 们所知,我们的植物到达 最不寻常的地方是斯里兰 卡和多哥共和国。 到目前为止,您获得的最 重要认可是什么?在过去 的两年中,我们得到了来 自希腊和国外的诸多认 可。最重要的来自于欧盟 农村与可持续发展部,还 有来自中华人民共和国农 村发展部的认可。 未来要实现的目标或想 法?我们的近期目标是为 产量的快速增长寻找战略 投资伙伴,使我们能够扩 展到美国和中国等大型市 场,继续开发植物维护技 术并根据希腊文化传统和 其他国家文化开发诸多新 产品。 今天什么让您感到快乐? 我很高兴能够与大自然合 作,看到我们的盆栽每天 都在增长,为旅行至全世 界做好了准备。此外,幸福 就是当收到来自世界各地 的感谢信时,他们感谢我 们为其提供了获得“活着 的”全球标志的机会。
基里姆地毯店
Open-Air Water Power Museum The Open-Air Water Museum, a member of the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation Thematic Museums Network, is located at the historic Dimitsana right in the heart of the Peloponnese. The first workshops appeared in the 16th century at the Loussios river gorge, as the region’s gradual residential development began. Today, the buildings and water-powered equipment have been restored and faithfully reflect the lifestyle of those engaged in the gorge, with each of the restored buildings having a thematic section. In the first building, you will see a water mill and a flour mill, where you can place corn seeds and observe from up close how flour is milled and produced. Just outside, is a "rakokazano" cauldron that was placed outdoors for a few days after the grape pressing for the production of tsipouro. At the tanner’s two-storey house opposite, you will see the various stages of leather skin treatment. The cobbled path leads to a levelled plateau where a natural reservoir is formed, ending at the gunpowder mill. Gunpowder, a strong element of the region’s cultural identity, is kept alive in the memory and in the stories of its inhabitants.
AION 1922精品店坐落于雅典市中心,营造了一个关于传统地毯和基里姆
露天水力博物馆
作为比雷埃夫斯银行集团文化基金会主题博物馆网络成员 之一,露天水力博物馆位于伯罗奔尼撒中心地带历史悠久的 Dimitsana。16世纪此地最早的工作坊出现在Loussios河峡谷, 从此吸引了越来越多的居民来此定居。如今,这些建筑和水力设 备已被修复,如实地反映了峡谷居民的生活方式,每座修复后的 建筑物都拥有一个主题。在第一栋大楼中,您将看到水磨坊和面 粉磨坊,可以尝试在磨坊中放入玉米,近距离观察玉米粉的碾磨 和生产过程。室外是一个rakokazano大锅,在生产七浦罗烈酒 时放置压榨之后的葡萄 。 对面是两层高的制革厂 ,在这里您将 营业时间 : 周一至周日11 am-7pm 目睹皮革生产和处理的整个过程。鹅卵石铺成的小道通向一个 平坦的高原,在此处形成了一个天然储水库,一直通向火药磨 坊。火药是该地区文化特征的重要组成部分,在当地人的记忆 中一直保持着非常活跃的地位。
普拉卡:34 Vasilisis Amalias Av (宪法广场或雅典卫城地铁站)
地毯的神奇世界。 我们提供以传统手工艺制作精美的经典和现代纯手工地 毯。我们的家族拥有3个多世纪的历史,是最古老的地毯和基里姆地毯制造 商之一,我们的产品同时出口到欧洲市场。我们的品牌名称标志着我们悠久 的历史,aion(αιών)一词在希腊语中意为“世纪” ,我们于1922年在希腊成 立。我们所有的地毯均附带官方证书及其有关制作工艺的特定信息。我们同 KEFALARI AI-YIANNI, +30 27950 31630, OPENING HOURS: DAILY 10.00-17.00, EXCEPT TUESDAYS, PIOP.GR 时提供免税信息和免费送货服务。 Kefalari Ai-Yianni,+ 30 27950 31630,开放时间:每天10:00-17:00,周二除外,piop.gr
business
商业
– STO RY –
– 故事 –
Key Biscayne project. Key Biscayne项目
Vaggelis Kteniadis.
At the Headquarters (Othonos 6).
公司总部(Othonos 6)
Show house at the HQ. 总部展示厅
12 REASONS to invest in Greece
MR VAGGELIS KTENIADIS, CHAIRMAN AND CEO OF V² DEVELOPMENT SHARING HIS VIEWS ON THE GREEK PERMANENT RESIDENCY PROGRAM.
F
rom its glorious past to a solid present and an even more promising future, V² Development is the No1 residential development company in Greece. A successor to ERGON, the company, that since 1962 has defined the real estate sector in Greece, V² Development has sold over 7000 real estate assets in a wide gamut of applications, ranging from residential and retail to hotels and warehouse facilities for a total of 4.5 million square meters. V² Development has been instrumental in popularising the Greek Permanent Residency Program by catering mainly to Chinese investors, one of the most dynamic segments of the global population interested in these programs. Its Chairman is one of the prime advocates of the Program and the potential it holds for the country. 50 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
投资希腊的12个理由
V²Development董事长兼首席执行官Vaggelis Kteniadis 先生分享他对希腊永久居留项目的看法。
从
辉煌的过去到扎实的现在以及更加光明的未 来,V ² D e ve l o p m e n t 是 希 腊 第 一 大 住 宅 开 发 公 司 。作 为 E RG ON(自 1 9 6 2 年 以 来 是 希 腊 房 地 产 行 业 的佼佼者)的继 任者,V²Development已售出7000多种房地产资产,涉及范 围非常广泛,从住宅、零售到酒店和仓库设施,总计450万平方 米。V²Development通过主要服务于中国投资者(对投资移民计 划感兴趣的全球人口中最有活力的人群之一),在普及希腊永久居 留项目方面发挥了重要作用。集团主席是希腊投资移民计划的主要 倡导者之一。
1. Permanent Residency: It must be stressed that the programme provides a permanent residency in a Schengen country and not a visa, a 5-years visa or just residency. 2. Ascendants-Descendants of main applicants: All living ascendants and descendants of the main applicants are also eligible for permanent residency. 3. Same Day Approval: It needs to be mentioned that applicants get same-day approval, while their attorney files the application on their behalf and receives the “blue 1. 永久居留权:需要不断强调的 是,该计划在申根国家和地区提 供永久居留权,而不单纯是签 证、5年签证或居留。 2. 主申请人一家三代:主申请人所 有活着的一家三代人均有资格获 得永久居留权。 3. 当天批准:需要指出的是申请人 在其代表律师提交申请的同一天 将获得“蓝纸”批准。3-6周后,他 们将获得永久居留卡。
paper”. After 3-6 weeks they will receive their permanent residency card. 4. No prior residency in Greece is required to be eligible or to keep the permanent residency. 5. Selling the property to a citizen of another third world country will automatically constitute a permanent residency directly to the buyer. 6. The owners can transfer the property to their children
when they are over 24 years of age, and whoever related has received a permanent residency will still keep it. 7. Owners have a right to rent their property and have a return on their investment. 8. The right to apply for citizenship: Children are required to live and study in Greece for 6 consecutive years before turning 18. Then they can apply for citizenship anytime, without taking a
ADVANTAGES OF GREEK PERMANENT RESIDENCY LAW 希腊永久居留权法案的优点
4. 获得或保持永久居留权没有在希 腊居住天数的要求。 5. 将房产出售给另一第三国公民 时,永久居留权将自动转换给 买方。 6. 房产所有人可以将其房产转让给 其24岁以上的子女,所有已获得
永久居留权的人将继续保持其永 久居留权。 7. 拥有出租房屋并获得投资回报 的权利。 8. 申请国籍的权利:儿童必须在18 岁之前连续在希腊生活和学习6 年,之后他们可随时申请希腊国
language examination. Adults are required to live in Greece for 183 days/year for 7 years. Then, they need to pass the government’s official Greek language examination before receiving their citizenship. 9. No requirement for applicants to submit official non-criminal records. 10. No need to provide evidence that the money has been taxed by the Chinese government. 11. No money transfer requirements. 12. No medical examination requirements.
籍,无需参加语言考试。成年人必 须在希腊生活7年,每年183天, 之后需要通过希腊政府官方希 腊语考试,便可申请获得希腊公 民身份。 9. 无需客户提交正式非犯罪记录。 10. 无需提供证据证明这笔钱已向中 国政府缴纳税款。 11. 无汇款要求。 12. 无医学检查要求。
Laguna Niguel Alimos.
V² Development Headquarters |
International Offices |
Othonos 6, Athens, +30 210 9617181 Kolonaki Branch: Valaoritou 4A, Athens, +30 210 3622230 Glifada Branch: Leoforos Aggelou Metaxa 7, Glifada, +30 210 8983405
Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Dubai, Nairobi
总部
国际办公室
北京,上海,广州,迪拜,内 罗毕
info@vsquared2.com | vsquared2.com
ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE /
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A "sweet" stop at Ohh Boy in Archelaou street.
位于Archelaou街的 Ohh Boy甜品店。
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24 hours in
帕格拉蒂
– PA G R AT I –
– 24小 时 –
A BREATH away from the city centre
JOURNALIST DIMITRIS RIGOPOULOS WELCOMES US TO ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR ATHENIAN NEIGHBOURHOODS AND TAKES TO HIS FAVOURITE HANGOUTS.
–by kiki vassalou, –photos: stathis mamalakis–
距离城市心脏仅一步之遥
记者迪米特斯·利奥普鲁斯在雅典最受欢迎的社区之一欢迎我们的到来,并向我们介绍社区中他的最爱。
– 编辑:奇奇·瓦萨鲁, 摄影:斯塔西斯·马玛拉基斯–
O
ur appointment was made on a sunny November morning at Proskopon Square, one of those “urban oases” as journalist Dimitris Rigopoulos likes to call these small squares hidden around Pagrati where he will be our neighbourhood guide for the day. We sat at the Aerostato, one of the old cafes on the square and a regular hangout for many residents of all ages – “and that’s the interesting thing”, he tells us. “Exchanging morning greetings, the fact that you can come here on your own and read your newspaper, or turn on your computer and get some work done in a familiar environment”. Dimitris didn’t grow up here, but he has been living in Pagrati for the past two decades in an apartment building right behind the Hilton Hotel and the National Gallery, a museum undergoing a makeover from the ground up and is expected to reopen in 2021. A friend persuaded him to move here in 1999 and he decided to stay. He really liked the fact that he was just a breath away from the city centre. At the time, the offices of the newspaper where he still works were in Omonia and he could just simply walk to work. The Athens metro was due to open a few months later – as it did in January 2000. Furthermore, the wide array of apartment
11
月一个阳光明媚的清晨, 我们约定在Proskopon 广场见面,记者迪米特斯·利奥普 鲁斯喜欢将这些隐藏在帕格拉蒂 周围的小广场称为“都市绿洲”, 他是我们今天社区一日游的向 导。我们选择了广场上最古老的 Aerostato咖啡馆,这里是所有 年龄段居民都非常喜欢的定期聚 会场所。 “这非常有趣,”他告诉我 们, “大家在熟悉的环境中互问早 安,当然也可以自己一个人来这 里阅读报纸,或者打开电脑工作。 ” 迪米特斯并非在这里长大,但 过去二十年中他一直住在帕格拉 蒂区希尔顿酒店和国家美术馆后 面的一栋公寓楼内,该博物馆正 在重修,预计将在2021年重新开 放。一位朋友说服他于1999年搬 到这里,之后他便决定留下。他真 的很喜欢这里距离雅典城市心脏 仅一步之遥。当时他工作的报社办 公室在和谐广场,他只需步行即可 上班,几个月后雅典地铁才开始运 行,也就是2000年1月。除此之外, 大理石体育场四周散布着各种各 样的公寓楼,从建筑学的角度这 Walking around Pagrati.
漫步于帕格拉蒂。
Different views of the neighbourhood.
社区中风景无限。 ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE /
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24 hours in
帕格拉蒂
– PA G R AT I –
– 2 4小 时 –
buildings spreading from Kallimarmaro (or Panathenaic Stadium), always intrigued him from an architectural point of view and he certainly enjoys the abundant morning light, as well as the greenery... which is more than plentiful in the vicinity. Pagrati has certainly changed a lot since then. Not so much in appearance, but in popularity and ultimately in substance. The Athenians who have chosen to reside in Pagrati in recent years are not few and as a result many shops, most of them eateries, have opened in every square, pedestrian road, street corner – the remnants of a recurring financial crisis, an overall trend that loves coffee, desserts, food and drinks, but also the tourist development of the wider central area. Of course, on the other hand, we can’t fail to mention the great new neighbourhood arrival, namely the Museum of Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation that opened its gates to the public in early October catching everyone’s eye. For Dimitris, Pagrati is an inclusive urban neighbourhood with well-maintained high rise apartment buildings from past decades found alongside contemporary ones, but also some detached houses with interesting architecture scattered here and there. One of his favourite streets,
Standing at the nearest bus stop.
站于最近的公交站。
Street life.
街景。
Running in Kallimarmaro. 在大理石体育场跑步。
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Typical Αthenian building.
典型的雅典式建筑。
对他来说非常具有吸引力,他还尽情享受清晨 充足的阳光以及郁郁葱葱的绿色,这里几乎到 处都是绿色植被! 从那时到现在,帕格拉蒂确实发生了很大的 变化,不是在外观上,而是人气和本质上。近年 来不少雅典人选择在帕格拉蒂居住,因此,这里 出现了许多商店和餐厅,每个广场、人行道和街 道拐角处都有开设,受反复出现的金融危机的 影响,这里形成了喜欢咖 啡、甜 点、快餐和饮料的 总体趋势,还在更广阔的 中部地区发展了旅游业。 当然,另一方面,我们不得 不提到新成员的加入,古 兰德基金会博物馆(Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation)将于10月 初向公众开放,这吸引了 所有人的目光。 对迪米特斯而言,帕格 拉蒂是非常具有包容力 的城市社区,建于几十年 前却维护良好的旧高层 公寓楼与现代公寓楼并 存,当然也四处分散着一 些比较散乱的有趣建筑。 谈到建筑与宽阔的人行 道,他最喜欢的街道是通
with regard to the housing as well as the wide and accessible sidewalks – “see how important architectural planning is”, he comments, is Empedokleous S treet leading t o t h e s q u a re o f Va r n a v a , known to most Athenians thanks to the Colibri restaurant with its tasty pizza, burgers and crowds of people. It is one of those places where they don’t make reservations, so it can be quite tricky finding a table! The truth is that there are places in Pagrati right now where it is difficult to find a place to sit and the grill taverna Mavros Gatos is one of them. An old, much loved taverna, which is almost always full especially on a Saturday or Sunday. It is located in a narrow street perpendicular to Archelaou Street, a very popular street in Pagrati, where all kinds of shops have opened recently. Here, it’s worth making a stop at the Ohh Boy that has sensational sweets and then at the modern pizzeria Tre Sorelle, which serves a slightly crunchy crust pizza with Italian ingredients.
Ohh Boy for sweet lovers.
备受甜食爱好者喜欢的Ohh Boy甜品店。
Tre Sorelle serves a slightly crunchy crust pizza with Italian ingredients.
Tre Sorelle提供美味意大利薄脆披萨饼。
向Varnava广场的Empedokleous街, “看看 建筑规划的重要性”,他说。大多数雅典人都 知道Colibri餐厅提供美味无比的比萨和汉 堡,还有热闹的人群。这里不接受预订,因为 总是门庭若市! 事实上现在帕格拉蒂有很多餐厅都很难找 到坐的地方,烧烤酒馆Mavros Gatos就是其 中之一。这是一个古老的而备受大家喜爱的 小酒馆,是肉食者的理想选择,这里总是客满 尤其在周六和周日。餐厅坐落于一条垂直于 Archelaou街的狭窄街道上,Archelaou街 是帕格拉蒂非常受欢迎的街道,最近很多商店 都在这里开业。另外一个值得一停的地方是拥 有各种各样缤纷糖果的Ohh Boy,还有现代比 萨店Tre Sorelle,提供正宗意大利脆皮比萨。
At the local open air market.
当地露天户外大市场。 ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE /
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24 hours in
帕格拉蒂
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N
ew haunts aside, Pagrati for Dimitris is all about the habits he acquired and neighbourhood hangouts he has come to love over the years: training at the horseshoe of the Kalimarmaro stadium with the view of the Acropolis on one side and the hill of Lycabettus on the other, the carefree getaways to the garden paradise of the Byzantine Museum, still one of the city’s well-kept secrets and his own personal retreat on Pagrati’s border with Kolonaki, the European films shown on the big screen at Petit Palais, a favourite place for Athenian cinephiles, the wide variety of desserts, cakes and pastries found at the Pastry Family, the Amatriciana pasta at the classic Italian trattoria Italia and the cooked meals of the Fatsio restaurant, run by a family from Constantinople for half a century now in a neat, elegant environment (waiters wear white shirts and bow ties), where you feel as if time has come to a standstill. Then you have the casual walks with no particular destination in mind at the other favourite square of Messolonghi, walking among locals of all ages, enjoying a hot beverage on a winter afternoon at the cafe-patisserie Petit Fleur at Proskopon Square, where our morning meeting started and spending hours browsing around the Pleiades bookstore, which only just sprouted in the neighbourhood six years ago and feels like it’s been here forever. People come and go looking for new and old books, it has regular tributes and events with a steadily growing attendance and a few tables at the back to accommodate the area’s book-loving crowd and customers alike. At this point, we bid farewell to Dimitris; between words and thoughts.
– 2 4小 时 – Kids love playing at the small squares.
孩子们喜欢在广场中玩耍。
Morning chocolate drink.
清晨来杯巧克力热饮。
Petit Fleur at Proskopon Square.
Proskopon广场的 Petit Fleur咖啡店。
对 Petit Palais for cinephiles.
Petit Palais电影院。
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迪米特斯来说,帕格拉蒂就是他多年来 养成的习惯,这里有太多他喜欢与朋友 家人聚会的地方:在大理石体育场马蹄铁上训 练,同时享受着一边是雅典卫城另一边是利卡 维多斯山脉的美景;前往拜占庭博物馆的天堂 花园来一次无忧无虑的逍遥游,这依然是雅典 城最秘密的所在之一,位于帕格拉蒂与科洛纳 基交界处;Petit Palais电影院的大屏幕上播放 着各种欧洲电影,对于雅典的电影迷来说,这是 他们最喜欢的地方;提供各种丰盛甜点、蛋糕和 点心的Pastry Family烘焙坊; 供应经典意大利 美食的Fatsio餐厅,由一家来自君士坦丁堡的 家庭经营长达半个世纪,整洁与优雅的环境( 服务员身着白衬衫和领结)让人感觉仿佛时光 已在此停滞。 除此之外,您还可以在另一个特别受欢迎的 Messolonghi广场悠闲漫步,没有特别目的 地,在各个年龄段当地人中穿梭,选择一个冬 日午后,在Proskopon广场Petit Fleur咖啡馆 中享用一杯热饮,这里就是我们早上见面的地 方,之后我们又在附近的Pleiades书店流连忘 返,这家书店6年前才在这里开业,但却让人感 觉它仿佛一直都在那里。来来往往的人群在这 书店找寻各种新书和旧书,这里还定期举行致 敬活动,出席人数稳步增长,同时在书店后方摆 放几张桌子,容纳更多爱书的人群。至此,我们 也需要和迪米特斯告别了,在言语与思想之间。
PLEIADES BOOKSTORE FEELS LIKE IT’S BEEN HERE FOREVER. Pleiades 书店让人感觉它好 像一直都在这里。
At Pleiades bookstore. Pleiades 书店。
ADDRESSES (地址): AEROSTATO, PTOLEMAION 4 | COLIBRI, EMPEDOKLEOUS 15, +30 2107011011 | MAVROS GATOS, POLEMONOS 4, +30 2107236903 | OHH BOY, ARCHELAOU 32, +30 2111838340 | TRE SORELLE PIZZA, ARCHELAOU 19, +30 2114072172 | PETIT PALAIS, RIZARI 24, +30 2107291800 | PASTRY FAMILY, RIZARI 19, +30 2107210987 | FATSIO, EFRONIOU 5, +30 2107217421 | PETIT FLEUR, AMINTA 1, +30 2155519685 | PLEIADES BOOKSTORE, SPYROU MERKOURI 62, +30 2107249604
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Living Art A unique gem in the city centre is the new Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation in Pagrati, whose collection focuses on modern and contemporary art by Greek and foreign artists following the founders’ notion that “Art should be open to society”. FASHION PHOTOS: GEORGE KATSANAKIS (10AM), STYLING: NATASHA LIONAKI
活 着 的 艺 术
Photo on this page: Stathis Mamalakis
此页面上的照片: 斯塔西斯•马玛拉基斯
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PAIR OF CRANES, ROCK CRYSTAL, BOUCHERON OPPOSITE PAGE: PABLO PICASSO (1881-1973), NUDE WOMAN WITH RAISED ARMS, 1907, © 2019 SUCCESSION PICASSO
全新的 巴兹尔与伊丽丝·古兰德里斯基金会是雅典市中心的独特瑰宝,其创立者秉承着“艺术应该向社会开放”的理 念,展示希腊与国际艺术家的现当代艺术精品。 时尚摄影:乔治•卡萨纳吉斯, 造型:娜塔莎•里昂纳吉
Draped velvet mini dress Alexandre Vauthier, Luisa World. Chain tasseled earrings Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, Luisa World. Tights Wolford @Wolford Boutiques. Alexandre Vauthier天鹅绒迷你连衣裙,路易莎世界; 圣罗兰流苏耳环, Anthony Vaccarello设计,路易莎世界; 沃尔福德 丝袜@沃尔福德精品店。
Mary Katrantzou真丝碎花连衣裙,阿提卡购物中心。
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OPPOSITE PAGE: FRIEDENSREICH HUNDERTWASSER (1928-2000), CHAIR PAINTED ON ALL SIDES WITH A GOBLIN HEAD ON THE CHAIR SEAT, 1952, © THE HUNDERTWASSER NON PROFIT FOUNDATION, VIENNA, AUSTRIA / EUROPE. JEAN DUBUFFET (1901-1985), CHAIR OF PRACTICAL FUNCTION, 29 MARCH 1969, © ADAGP, PARIS, 2019 / OSDEETE ATHENS 2019
Silk floral dress Mary Katrantzou, Attica.
Silk asymmetric printed dress, Louis Vuitton. Boots Sergio Rossi, Kalogirou. Tights Wolford @Wolford Boutiques. Bracelet Marco Bicego, Marco Bicego Boutique. 路易威登真丝不对称印花连衣裙,Sergio Rossi靴子,Kalogirou专卖店; 沃尔福德丝袜@沃尔福德精品店。 Marco Bicego手镯,Marco Bicego精品店。
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FERNAND LÉGER (1881-1955), MECHANICAL ELEMENT, 1919, © ADAGP, PARIS, 2019 / OSDEETE ATHENS 2019. WASSILY KANDINSKY (1866-1944), BOTH STRIPED, 1932. PAUL KLEE (1879 - 1940), DYNAMICS OF A HEAD, 1934. JEAN HÉLION (1904 - 1987), BLUE COMPOSITION, 1938 © ADAGP, PARIS, 2019 / OSDEETE ATHENS 2019.
Pleated dress with belt Wildwood, Free Shop. Earrings and boots Salvatore Ferragamo, Salvatore Ferragamo Boutique.
百褶连衣裙搭配Wildwood腰 带,Free Shop;菲拉格慕耳环和靴 子,菲拉格慕精品店。
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普拉达缎面花朵府绸大衣,普拉达缎面凉鞋,普拉达精品店。
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PABLO PICASSO (1881-1973), YOUNG MAN WITH BOUQUET, 1905, © 2019 SUCCESSION PICASSO. EDGAR DEGAS (1834-1917), LITTLE DANCER AGED FOURTEEN, CIRCA 1878-1881 OPPOSITE PAGE: JACKSON POLLOCK (1912-1956), NUMBER 13, 1950, © ADAGP, PARIS, 2019 / OSDEETE ATHENS 2019
Poplin coat with satin floral appliqués and satin sandals Prada, Prada Boutique.
Wool crepe midi dress and pussy bow silk shirt, Lola. 羊毛迷笛裙和猫咪蝴蝶结真丝衬衫,Lola精品店。
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Victoria Beckham森林印花百褶 迷笛裙,阿提卡购物中心。
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ROY LICHTENSTEIN (1923-1997), NUDE WITH WHITE FLOWER, COLLAGE FOR “NUDE WITH YELLOW FLOWER”, 1994, © ESTATE OF ROY LICHTENSTEIN NEW YORK / ADAGP, PARIS, 2019 / OSDEETE ATHENS 2019
Forest print pleated midi dress Victoria Victoria Beckham, Attica.
Embellished velvet mini dress and crystal velvet beret Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, Luisa World. 圣罗兰刺绣天鹅绒迷你连衣裙 和水晶天鹅绒贝雷帽,Anthony Vaccarello设计,路易莎世界。
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Ralph Lauren劳伦衬衫裙,Notos 商城;Marco Bicego耳环和手 镯,Marco Bicego精品店。
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AFRODITI LITI (1953- ), FIGURE WITH COIN, 2007
Shirtdress Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Notos. Earrings and bracelet Marco Bicego, Marco Bicego Boutique.
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Double-breasted wool satin blazer and trousers Max Mara Tuxedo Collection, Max Mara Boutique.
Max Mara精品双排扣羊毛西装外套和裤子,Max Mara Tuxedo系列,Max Mara精品店。
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MARC CHAGALL (1887-1985), PORTRAIT OF E.B.G., 1969, © ADAGP, PARIS, 2019 / OSDEETE ATHENS 2019 OPPOSITE PAGE: YANNIS MORALIS (1916-2009), EROTIC, 1994. YANNIS MORALIS (1916-2009), EROTIC, 1977.
We would like to thank Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation and its staff for the warm hospitality. 我们诚挚感谢巴兹尔与伊丽丝·古兰德里斯基金 会及其工作人员的热情接待。
Make Up & Hair: ATHENA SKOUVAKIS (This Is Not Another Agency*) Model: Gwen Lu (D. MODELS AGENCY) Fahion Photo Assistant: Dimitris Katsanakis (10AM)
妆发:雅典娜·斯库瓦吉斯(This Is Not Another Agency*) 模特:Gwen Lu(D模特经纪公司)时尚摄影助理:迪米特斯•卡萨纳吉斯
Puff-sleeved embellished mini dress Alessandra Rich, Luisa World. Tights Wolford @ Wolford Boutiques. Satin pumps Malone Souliers, Kalogirou.
Alessandra Rich蓬蓬袖迷你连衣裙,路易莎世界; 沃尔福德丝袜@沃尔福德精品店;缎面浅口鞋,Kalogirou专卖店。
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山间漫步
放松身心,与大自然亲密接触, 享受烹饪美食的乐趣,希腊山 区的冬季魅力无限。
Prophet Elias Chapel on the top of Mount Voras, Kaimaktsalan.
位于沃拉斯山顶的先 知伊莱亚斯教堂,凯马 克萨兰山区。
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© RAPHAEL ZOUMIS @RAPHAEL_ZOUMIS
— 撰稿:季奥吉斯•帕纳吉奥塔吉斯 —
The Loutra Pozar Hot Springs are famous for their healing properties.
© SHUTTERSTOCK
Loutra Pozar温泉因 其治疗功效而闻名。
Wandering in the mountains
Relaxation, wellness, contact with nature and culinary delights; wintertime in the Greek mountains is magnificent.
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The fascinating natural setting in the Loutra Pozar Hot Springs.
Loutra Pozar温泉迷 人的自然环境。
The stylish Kaimak Inn Spa & Resort.
时尚的Kaimak Inn 水疗度假村。
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A very good option for accommodation is the Kaimak Inn Spa & Resort, with stylish fireplaces, romantic decoration and a wonderful outdoor heated jacuzzi (kaimakinn.gr).
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now always falls very early on Kaimaktsalan. After all, it is the third highest mountain in Greece situated at the northernmost point. As a result, its ski resort which is the highest in the country, attracts many winter sport lovers especially on weekends. It is also an ideal place for less sporty types as it has acquired excellent tourism infrastructure in recent years. The mountain villages - Paleos Agios Athanasios, Arnissa, Panagitsa and others - are welcoming hubs of real hospitality and culinary enjoyment. The famous Macedonian dishes are always served here in their authentic form and come in hearty quantities. There are also small bars, cafes and pastry shops in the villages, all with lit fireplaces and a very relaxing atmosphere. On a Sunday afternoon, when visitors from Thessaloniki and other cities of northern Greece go back home, the mountain returns to its... regular relaxed pace.
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从圣阿纳纳西奥斯驱车至 Loutra Pozar温泉需半小时, 在充满魔力的环境中享受独一 无二的水疗和心理治疗,全方 位放松身心。
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Kaimak度假村与水疗中心 是住宿的绝佳选择,酒店配 备时尚的壁炉,浪漫的装饰 以及精美的户外加热按摩浴 池(kaimakinn.gr) 。
Kaimaktsalan
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At the taverna Petros in Palaios Agios Athanasios (+30 23810 31795) you will find authentic lachanosarmades (cabbage rolls with meat and rice), fasoulotarvades (a bean based meal cooked in a pot) and a delicious lamb casserole, whereas at Petrino in Panagitsa (+30 23810 34033) they serve traditional dishes from Constantinople like the exquisite soutzoukakia (spicy meatballs in tomato sauce).
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在Palaios Agios Athanasios村的皮特小酒馆 (+30 23810 31795) ,您会 品尝到正宗的lachanosarmades(用肉和米饭做成的 白菜卷) ,fasoulotarvades (煮熟的豆粕)和美味羊 肉砂锅。Panagitsa村的 Petrino餐厅(+30 23810 34033)提供君士坦丁堡传统 菜肴,如精美的soutzoukakia(番茄酱辣肉丸) 。
Relaxing in the North
The Kaimaktsalan Ski Center is the highest in the country.
凯马克萨兰滑雪中心是全希腊海拔最高的滑雪中心。
希腊北部凯马克萨兰地区的大雪总是来 得 很 早,毕 竟 这 里 是 希 腊 最 北 端 的 第 三 北部放松之旅 大高山。正因如此,此地拥有全希腊海拔 最高的滑雪胜地,吸引着众多冬季运动爱 好者的到来,尤其在周末。近年来当地加强了出色的旅游基础设施,这里 也渐渐成为不太运动的游客的理想选择。山区村落群——Paleos Agios Athanasios,Arnissa,Panagitsa和其他村庄——形成了热情好客与丰 盛美味的中心。这里提供最正宗的马其顿菜肴,数量丰盛。村庄中还有各 种小型酒吧、咖啡厅和糕点店,均设有温暖的壁炉,营造轻松舒适的氛围。 周日下午,随着来自塞萨洛尼基和希腊北部其他城市的游客返回家园,这 座山城逐渐恢复其原貌……变得甚至更加惬意轻松。
凯马克萨兰
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© SHUTTERSTOCK, ANNA MARTIN, VIA INSTAGRAM. VIA GOOGLE.
It will take you half an hour to drive from St. Athanasios to Loutra Pozar Hot Springs; a unique opportunity for spa therapy and relaxation in a magical environment.
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Pavliani
he fireplaces are lit, the food is simmering in the pot and the day in the villages of Iti goes on with its usual wintertime pace: Slow, peaceful and enjoyable. The area used to be a well-kept secret known only to locals and climbers. In recent years though, thanks to the ease of access from Athens and other cities, it has experienced a mild growth in tourism. The most popular destination is Pavliani, a charming village built of stone and wood found at an altitude of 1040 metres, buried among fir, chestnut and walnut trees. Around it, within close proximity, are the picturesque villages of Athanasios Diakos, Mavrolithari, Kaloskopi and more. Next to Pavliani, extends the Iti National Park and the wildlife refuge. In the national park, at an altitude of 1,800 metres, are the ruins of a Doric temple dating back to the 3rd century BC. It was dedicated to Hercules and according to tradition this is the spot where the demigod lost his life in the flames.
温暖的壁炉被点燃,美味的食物在锅 中沸煮,伊缇村的白天按照通常的冬 季节奏进行:缓慢,平和而愉快。该地 区曾经是只有当地人和登山者所知道 的秘密场所,但近年来由于雅典和其 他城市交通的发展,旅游业开始在当地 隐藏的宝藏 出现缓慢增长。其中最受欢迎的目的地 是帕利亚尼,这是一座由石头和木头建 造的迷人村庄,海拔1040米,四周被冷杉、栗子和核桃树 林环绕。附近分布着风景如画的小村庄,如Athanasios Diakos,Mavrolithari,和Kaloskopi等。帕利亚尼周边 坐落着伊缇国家公园和野生动物保护区。在海拔1800米 的国家公园中,有一座可追溯至公元前3世纪的多立克式 神庙的废墟,该神庙是献给古希腊神话英雄赫拉克勒斯 的,根据传说,这里便是这位半神人在火焰中丧生的地方。
A hidden gem 帕利亚尼
View of Vasilikia Mountain Farm.
瓦西里克亚山区农场酒店景色。
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One of the top picks for accommodation in the area is the Vasilikia Mountain Farm, with its beautiful small independent houses. All of them built with natural materials in the alpine landscape offering a cosy atmosphere and discreet luxury. Be sure to climb the 20-metre high observatory made of tree trunks. The view extends from the sea all the way to the peaks and plateaus of the surrounding mountains (vasilikia.gr).
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At the Pavliani forest and recreation park one can walk around the well-built paths, among water springs, small waterfalls, gigantic trees and species of rare mushrooms. The latter can be enjoyed - along with less vegan flavours - at the Pavliani tavernas like the famous Litsa (+30 22310 83039) and Katsibas (+30 22310 83004).
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该地区最受欢迎的住宿之一是瓦西里克亚山区农 场酒店,提供漂亮的小型独立房屋。所有客房均采 用天然材料建造而成,在高山景观中营造出舒适 的氛围与低调的奢华感。一定不要错过登上由树 干制成的20米高的天文台,欣赏从大海一直延伸 至周围群山和高原的壮丽景色(vasilikia.gr) 。
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A freshly baked pie at the Katsibas taverna.
Katsibas小酒馆新鲜出炉的馅饼。
在帕利亚尼森林休闲公园,人们可以沿着精心建 造的小径散步,沿途布满了水泉、小瀑布、硕大 的树木以及稀有野生蘑菇。您可以在帕利亚尼小 酒馆中享受独特而美味的蘑菇美食,同时还有各 种素食风味,推荐著名的Litsa餐厅(+30 22310 83039)和Katsibas餐厅(+30 22310 83004) 。 ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE /
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The picturesque Syrrako is one of the must-visit villages of Tzoumerka.
风景如画的Syrrako村是祖 迈尔卡必游的村庄之一。
An elderly shepherd couple at the Pramanta village.
普拉曼塔村一对老年 牧羊人夫妇。
The stone villages
n the old days, the stone craftsmen from Pramanta, Syrrako, Kalarites and the rest of the Tzoumerka villages would travel far and wide to build houses, temples, bridges and even palaces. Their craft was unrivaled. So much so, that the Tsar of Russia once called on them to build the stone bridges of the Trans-Siberian Railway. Naturally, the craftsmen would also apply their artistry to their own homes. Centuries later, these mountainous settlements of Epirus still stand as gems of folk architecture. They are surrounded by impressive mountain peaks, dense forests and small rushing streams which join to form the Arachthos river. The National Park of Tzoumerka has great ecological value. We also find very old monasteries in the region, like the one of Kipina (1212 AD) which literally hangs over the void, tightly wedged into a steep rock.
The old monastery of Kipina. 基皮纳老修道院。
Traditional dishes at the Boutzas meat taverna in Pramanta. 普拉曼塔布曼扎斯肉 酒馆的传统菜肴。
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Napoleon Zaglis is the owner of the grocerytaverna Akanthos in Kalarites.
拿破仑·扎格里斯是位于 阿卡索斯的卡拉拉特杂 货店兼小酒馆的主人。
祖迈尔卡 石头村
过 去 ,来 自 P r a manta,Sirako,Kalarites和祖迈尔卡其他村庄的石材工匠 们会四处走动,在全国各地建造房屋、寺庙、桥梁甚至宫殿。他 们的工艺和技术无与伦比,连俄国沙皇都曾聘请他们建造西伯 利亚铁路石桥。当然,石匠们也会将技艺运用到自己的房屋建 造中。几个世纪后的今天,这些隐藏在伊庇鲁斯山区的定居点 仍然是希腊民间建筑艺术的瑰宝。它们四周被高耸的山峰、茂 密的森林和连接阿拉克索斯河的小溪包围。祖迈尔卡国家公园 具有很大的生态价值,该地区内还拥有一些非常古老的修道院, 如奇丽纳修道院(公元1212年), “奇丽纳”字面意思是悬挂于空 隙之上,修道院紧紧地伫立于一块陡峭的岩石之上。
© PERIKLES MERAKOS. SHUTTERSTOCK. VIA GOOGLE. VIA INSTAGRAM. VIA TREKKING.GR
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Tzoumerka
Rafting with Trekking Hellas Tzoumerka. 与Trekking Hellas一起漂流
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The livestock produce of Tzoumerka is the basis for delicious dishes served in restaurants around the various villages. The ones that stand out are the Boutzas meat taverna in Pramanta (+30 26590 61235) and Akanthos, a vintage grocery-taverna in Kalarites (+30 26590 61518). 山区各村庄餐厅都以祖迈 尔卡当地动植物产品制 作美味餐点。最有名的是 Pramanta的Boutzas肉酒 馆(+30 26590 61235)以 及Kalarites的老式杂货酒 馆Akanthos(+30 26590 61518) 。
In recent years, the mild tourist development has allowed for the creation of stylish hotel units, such as the Orizontes Tzoumerkon. It is situated in a wonderful location just outside Pramanta, offering a discreet luxury and a delectable Epirus-style breakfast (orizontestzoumerkon.gr). 近年来,旅游业的发展 促进了当地多家时尚酒 店的建立,如Orizontes Tzoumerkon,坐落在 Pramanta外围的绝佳位置, 提供丰盛的美食以及迷人的 伊庇鲁斯风格早餐(orizo ntestzoumerkon.gr) 。
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下雪时的德尔斐考古遗址。
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© @MOMENTSOFGREGORY,
A snowy day at the Archaeological Site of Delphi.
Climbing the steps of the Clock Tower. 爬台阶登钟楼。
Excellent accommodation at Elatos Resort and Spa.
一流住宿Elatos 水疗度假村。
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icturesque, distinguished and cosmopolitan, the so-called Nymph of Parnassus is an absolute must for the Greek winter carrying a precious “dowry”: Conveniently located near Athens, almost next to one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world, Delphi, as well as being close to two excellent large ski resorts. Furthermore, it is surrounded by dense fir and walnut tree forests and houses which reflect the tradition and ardent prestige of mountainous Roumeli. Inevitably, this large picturesque village on the southern slopes of mount Parnassus has evolved into an elegant winter destination, welcoming large numbers of visitors, especially on weekends. Strolling around the charming squares and old stonebuilt stately homes, you will admire the steep rock with the 19th century clock and discover tasteful cafes and restaurants serving local, as well as a more creative cuisine. You will also find shops with famous brands and dozens of small shops with traditional products: hand-woven textiles, pasta, wine, tsipouro, cold meats and dairy products. The undisputed “star” is formaela, a spicy cheese made from fresh sheep milk. You can try it grilled or fried and let the rich taste of mountainous Greece draw you in.
© LEONIDAS TSITOPOULOS. PERIKLES MERAKOS. VIA GOOGLE.
Arachova For skiing and partying
风景如画,举世闻名,国际化风格,被称为“帕纳 苏斯仙女”的阿拉霍瓦是希腊冬季旅行必选之 滑雪与聚会 地,这里拥有最珍贵的“嫁妆”:距离雅典不远的 便捷地理位置,毗邻世界上最著名的考古遗址 之一德尔菲,靠近两大著名滑雪胜地。此外,这里被茂密的冷杉和胡桃树森 林所覆盖,其中点缀着各式房屋,展现着鲁梅里山区的传统与声望。风景如 画的阿拉霍瓦村庄便坐落于帕纳苏斯山南坡上,这里早已成为一个优雅的 冬季旅行目的地,尤其在周末大量游客到此。您可以漫步于迷人的广场,在 石头建造的古老房屋中穿梭,欣赏陡峭岩石上的19世纪时钟,发现超级有 品味的咖啡馆和当地餐馆以及更多创意美食。这里还有拥有各大知名品牌 的商店以及数十家提供传统产品的小商铺: 手工编织的纺织品,面食,葡萄 酒,七浦罗烈酒,冷肉和乳制品等等。无可争议的“明星”当然是福尔梅拉, 这是一种用新鲜羊奶制成的辛辣奶酪,可烧烤或煎炸,尽情品尝希腊山区 的极品美味。
阿拉霍瓦
Formaela cheese and local sausage in the pan.
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There are several excellent accommodation options in Arachova and the surrounding area. One of them is the enchanting Elatos Resort and Spa located in a verdant area, at an altitude of 1,300 metres. It consists of 39 independent chalets in absolute harmony with the natural environment, offering all modern comforts and a unique sense of hospitality and warmth (elatosresort.gr).
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Nighttime in Arachova is just as enjoyable as the daytime, and on Saturday evenings the fun often goes on until the morning hours.
Formaela奶酪和当地香肠。
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阿拉霍瓦及其周边地区拥有 一流的住宿选择。其中之一 是迷人的Elatos度假村与水 疗中心,坐落于翠绿的茂林 地区,海拔1300米。由与自 然环境完全融合的39栋独立 小屋组成,提供现代化舒适 设施,服务热情周到,让您宾 至如归(elatosresort.gr) 。
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阿拉霍瓦的夜晚与白天一 样有趣,周六晚上各种娱乐 活动非常丰富,通常持续到 凌晨。
The Clock Tower is one of the most notable landmarks in Arachova. 钟楼是阿拉霍瓦最 著名的地标之一。
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Strolling around the streets of Litochoro.
在Litochoro街道上漫步 。
Visiting the ancient Dion.
参观古老的迪翁考古遗址。
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At the foot of Olympus, a few kilometres from Litochoro, is Dion, one of the most beautiful archaeological sites in Greece. Its attractions, many of which are half submerged under water, include magnificent baths, ancient Macedonian sanctuaries, a beautiful stadium, a well-preserved theatre, a mansion with impressive mosaics and a sanctuary dedicated to the Egyptian deity Isis.
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ertain shadows can be more imposing than others. One such shadow is of mount Olympus which gloriously spreads over Litochoro every morning, reaching all the way to the sea. As the day unfolds and the sun rises behind the peaks of the mountain of the gods illuminating the land, the impressive mountain ranges look like something out of a fantasy film scenery. Litochoro is the starting point of almost every daring climber attempting to conquer the summits of Olympus. Many mild trails also start here suitable for the less experienced hikers wanting to explore the slopes and the mountain’s spectacular snowy plateaus. In this picturesque town you will also find tasteful guesthouses, restaurants, cafes, pastry shops and bars, all under the watchful eye and discreet safeguard of the Olympian gods.
奥林匹斯山脚下距离利托 霍罗几公里之处便是希腊 最美丽的考古遗址之一迪翁 (Dion) 。这里的许多景点都 淹没在水中,如宏伟的浴室, 古老的马其顿庇护所,美丽 的体育场,保存完好的剧院, 令人印象深刻的马赛克大厦 以及专门为埃及神伊希斯而 建的庇护所。
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The Palio Litohoro guesthouse, on the upper edge of the town, has double rooms, superior double and junior suites, each with its own fireplace and jacuzzi. It is built with stone and wood in line with the region’s traditional architectural style and serves a hearty breakfast made with pure ingredients (paliolitohoro.gr).
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帕利奥·利托霍洛(Palio Litohoro)旅馆位于小镇上 端,设有双人间、高级双人 间和小型套房,每个套房都 有自己的壁炉和按摩浴缸。 酒店以石头和木头建造而 成,与该地传统建筑风格相 符合,供应以纯正食材制作 的丰盛早餐(paliolitohoro. gr) 。
Mount Olympus is always impressive. 蔚为壮观的奥林匹斯山。
Litochoro
某些影子可能会比其他阴影更具冲击力。每天 清晨,奥林匹斯山脉的影子散布在利托霍罗地 奥利匹斯山脉 区,一直延伸至大海。随着时间的推移,太阳在 这座众神之山的顶部缓缓升起,照亮整片大 的影子 地,巍峨起伏的山脉如同电影中精美的画卷。 利托霍罗是每个敢于征服奥林匹斯山峰的勇 敢登山者的起点。当然也有许多温和的登山步道,那些经验不足的徒步旅 行者可以从这里开始,探索山坡以及山峰上壮观的雪域高原美景。这个风 景如画的小镇还拥有众多有品位的宾馆、饭店、咖啡馆、糕点店和酒吧等, 所有一切都在奥林匹亚众神的监视与谨慎呵护之下。
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In the shadow of Olympus
Panoramic view of Lake Plastira.
普拉斯蒂拉湖全景。
Lake Plastira Q � A Winter’s tale
uite often, human interventions in nature can prove disastrous. However, this was not the case with the artificial Lake Plastira, since a rich ecosystem resulted thanks to the construction of the Tavropos river dam in 1959, making it one of the most beautiful landscapes in Greece. The surrounding route conjures up unique mental images, as the sky and snow-capped mountains are mirrored in the calm waters and treecovered banks, creating an ideal backdrop for great photographs. Surrounding the lake, perched on the mountains, are picturesque villages like Fylakti, Neochori and Neraida. The latter’s name means fairy and judging by its beauty, it is a very apt description. Activities like cycling, horse riding, canoeing, lake paddle biking, paragliding, gliding and hiking acquire a whole new meaning here. One can even visit historical monasteries, enjoy bird watching, explore the Botanical Gardens of Neochori, or simply find a spot and take in the spellbinding landscape.
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Quality local meats, fresh trout and delectable pies are served in the local restaurants. Wild boar with noodles, boiled goat meat and the famous Thessaly sausages with leeks should not be missed. The local tsipouro is top quality and just what the doctor ordered for the cold weather.
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Accommodation at Lake Plastira is of a high standard overall. One top pick is Montanema, a “handmade settlement” with independent stone built houses on the edge of the Anthochori gorge - a truly majestic spot among fir, walnut and cedar trees (montanema.gr).
Montanema consists of independent stone built houses.
Montanema由独立的 石头房屋构成。
人类对自然界的干预通常 会 造 成 灾 难 性 后 果 ,但 普 拉斯蒂拉人工湖却不是这 冬天的故事 样,1959年Tavropos河大 坝的建造为此地创造了一个丰富的生态系统,使其成为希腊 最美丽的风景之一。周边旅行路线为游客提供了完美的景象, 平静的水面上倒映着湛蓝的天空与白雪皑皑的山脉,河岸上 绿树成荫,为拍摄精美照片提供了理想背景。风景如画的村 庄如Fylakti,Neochori和Neraida坐落于高山之上,宁静地 躺在湖泊的怀抱中,村庄Neraida的名字本身就是“美丽的仙 女”的意思,实在恰如其分。骑自行车,骑马,划独木舟,湖上划 桨,滑翔伞,滑翔和远足等活动 在这里具有全新的意义,您也可 ➛ 以参观历史悠久的寺院,观赏珍 当地餐厅提供各种优质肉 奇鸟类,探索Neochori植物园, 类、新鲜鳟鱼和美味馅饼等。 或者简单地随意游览,欣赏迷人 不容错过的美食还有野猪肉 面条、炖山羊肉以及著名的 的美景。
普拉斯蒂拉湖
Local delicacies are not to be missed.
千万别错过当地美食。
色萨利香肠配韭菜。当地的 七浦罗烈酒也是一流的,很 多医生在寒冷天气特意从 此订购。
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普拉斯蒂拉湖地区提供高 标准住宿服务。最受欢迎的 选择是Montanema酒店, 这是一个“纯手工定居点” , 由在Anthochori峡谷边缘 建立的独立石头房屋 构成,Anthochori峡谷 四周被冷杉、胡桃木和 雪松树林覆盖,风景迷人 (montanema.gr) 。 ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE /
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沿旧火车轨道散步。
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Kalavryta
he first reason for visiting Kalavryta is for its renowned rack railway. This railway, with a history of over 120 years, starts from Diakopto, almost next to the sea and slowly ascends the impressive Vouraikos gorge, providing passengers with unique images of nature’s grandeur. After a few stops and having passed through cliffs, caves and hanging bridges, the train arrives at Kalavryta. This small picturesque town is the centre of a mountainous area with amazing locations, such as the Planitero plane-tree forest, beautiful small villages like Zachlorou and Ano and Kato Lousoi, as well as an excellent ski resort. You will even find historic monasteries, old towers and impressive “quirks” of nature like the Cave of the Lakes with thirteen underground lakes sprawl➛ ing over three giganting natural levels. Located 1943年卡拉维塔遭受了纳 on the top of mount Helmos is Aristarchos, the 粹在世界史上最恐怖的战 second largest telescope in continental Europe. 争暴行之一。但当地人设法 ➛
In 1943, Kalavryta suffered one of the most horrific war atrocities in world history by the Nazis. However, they managed to overcome and today Kalavryta is vibrant and very hospitable. It is worth visiting the Municipal Museum of the Kalavritan Holocaust (dmko.gr/en/).
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In the town’s alleys you will find very good restaurants like Spitiko with great cooked meals (+30 26920 24260) and Varvitsiotis the… meat-eating “shrine” that serves a delicious roast suckling pig (+30 26920 22049). There are also very fine hotel units, such as the Azanias Chalet situated in an idyllic location near the city (azanias.gr).
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The Vouraikos gorge is an ideal destination for any hiker and nature lover. The trail follows the rack railway track and most people choose the downhill route for as long as they can endure, and then return to Kalavryta with the railway train. 82 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
Nature’s art
克服了挑战,如今,卡拉维 塔充满朝气且热情好客。卡 拉夫里坦大屠杀市政博物 馆(dmko.gr/en/)非常值 得参观。
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镇上小巷中有不少一流餐 厅,如Spitiko,提供精致美 食菜(+30 26920 24260) , 还有Varvitsiotis餐厅,被称 为肉食者“神殿” ,提供美味 烤乳猪(+30 26920 22049) 。还有许多高级酒店住宿供 选择,如位于城市附近颇有 田园风格的Azanias木屋酒店 (azanias.gr) 。
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Vouraikos峡谷是徒步旅 行者和自然爱好者的理想 目的地。徒步路线沿铁轨行 进,大多数人会尽量选择下 坡路线,之后乘火车返回卡 拉维塔。
漫步于卡拉维塔街道上。
去卡拉维塔旅行的第一个原因当然 是大名鼎鼎的铁路轨道。这条铁路 大自然的艺术 已有120多年的历史,从Diakopto 出发,整条航线沿着大海前行,缓 慢上升至令人印象深刻的Vouraikos峡谷,旅客 将有机会欣赏到磅礴壮丽的自然美景。经过几站 后,穿过悬崖、洞穴和吊桥,火车最终到达卡拉维 塔。这个风景如画的小镇坐落于山区正中心,四周 风景宜人,有Planitero梧桐树森林,还有Zachlorou,Ano和 Kato Lousoi等美丽的小村庄,以及绝佳的滑雪胜地。这里还 拥有历史悠久的修道院,古老的塔楼以及众多令人印象深刻的 自然“奇景”,如湖洞,由散布在不同水平的十三座地下湖泊构 成。位于Helmos山顶的便是大名鼎鼎的欧洲大陆第二大望远 镜Aristarchos。
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Walking the streets of Kalavryta.
© PERIKLES MERAKOS. VIA INSTAGRAM. VIA GOOGLE.
An easy hike follows the rack railway track.
Tasty food and dessert at Spitiko restaurant.
Spitiko餐厅提供美味食物和 甜点。
Azanias Chalet is located near the city.
位于城市附近的Azanias木屋 酒店。
Mega Spilaio is a historical monastery of Kalavryta.
Mega Spilaio是卡拉维塔历 史悠久的修道院。
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Lagadia is one of the must-visit villages in the area.
拉加迪亚是该地区必游的村庄之一。
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Τop quality local products in Vytina's market. 在维蒂纳市场购买优质当地产品。
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Arkadia
he majestic nature is only one of the attractions found in mountainous Arkadia, because here, on the grounds where the ancient gods would consummate, we find some of the most beautiful settlements in Greece, the villages of Mount Mainalo: Vytina, Lagadia, Dimitsana, Stemnitsa, Karytaina and so many more. They are all stunning, hospitable and make for a perfect winter vacation. This region was one of the cradles of the 1821 revolution and its memories are still alive in the stone-built houses, fortifications, churches and old watermills that produced the gunpowder for the arms of the revolutionaries. The tradition of Mainalo is also reflected in the top quality local products: noodles, lasagna, trachanas (a fermented mix of grain and yoghurt or milk), dairy, sweet desserts, aromatic plants, herbs... Holding a special place though, is the fir honey Mainalou “Vanilia” with PDO status produced by local beekeepers in a designated area around Vytina.
Lima beans at Kokkina Pytharia tavern in Vytina.
维蒂纳Kokkina Pytharia小酒馆美味。
雄伟的自然风光并不是阿卡 迪亚山区唯一的吸引点,这 里也曾是希腊古代神灵生活 过的地方,拥有整个希腊最 美丽的定居点,即迈纳洛山 传统与历史 区 村 落 群 :维 蒂 纳,拉 加 迪 亚,迪米特萨纳,斯坦尼察, 卡丽塔纳等。它们美丽迷人,村民热情好客,是冬季假期的完美 选择。此地曾是1821年革命发源地之一,至今依然记忆犹新,由 石头建造的房屋、防御工事和教堂,还有为革命者们提供火药 的古老水磨坊。麦纳洛的传统还体现在当地最优质的产品中: 面条,千层面,trachanas(谷物、酸奶和牛奶的发酵混合物), 乳制品,甜点,芳香植物,香料等。这里最特别的当然是麦纳洛 冷杉蜂蜜“香草”,由本地养蜂人在维蒂纳附近指定区域生产, 获得PDO认证。
Tradition and history 阿卡迪亚山区
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您可以在此参加众多活动, 可选择有组织团体或单人活 动,包括滑雪,漂流,皮划艇, 山地自行车,徒步旅行,远 足,登山和其他高山运动。还 可以参观考古遗址,如古代 戈尔蒂纳,以及其他有重大 历史意义的地方。比雷埃夫 斯银行集团文化基金会博物 馆网络中的露天水电力博物 馆绝对是必游之地,这是一 家专门研究水力的户外博物 馆(piop.gr) 。
You can participate in organised groups or enjoy solo skiing, snowboarding, rafting, kayaking, mountain biking, trekking, hiking, mountain climbing and other mountain sports in the area. You can also visit archaeological sites like Ancient Gortyna, as well as other places of significant historical interest. A definite must is a visit to the Open-Air Water Power Museum of the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation Museum Network, an exemplary outdoor museum dedicated to water power (piop.gr).
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Tasteful hotel accommodations operate in most villages. One of the best is the five-star Mylaon Boutigue Hotel & Spa in Vytina, where traditional aesthetic harmoniously coexists with luxury (mylaon.gr).
Interior decoration of an old house in Lagadia village. 拉加迪亚村庄一栋古老房子的内饰。
此地多数村庄都提供高雅 的酒店住宿服务。最好的 酒店之一是维蒂纳五星级 Mylaon精品酒店及水疗中 心,展现了传统美学与奢华 风格的和谐共处(mylaon. gr) 。 ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE /
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Traditional house at the Kapesovo village.
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Ιn the cobbled streets of Dilofo village.
迪洛佛村鹅卵石街道。
Pies are always a part of the Zagorian table. Try them at Pita tis Kikitsas in Monodendri (+30 26530 71340) where they also serve an excellent kontosouvli (a meat dish roasted on a skewer). Salvia (+30 26530 41330), the restaurant of the Aristi Mountain Resort, serves traditional flavours with a gourmet touch, various local cheeses and has a rich wine cellar. At Riza in Elati (+30 26530 71550) you can try the delicious wild boar with plums and quince.
Kapesovo村的传统民居。
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One of the area’s top accommodations is undoubtedly the Aristi Mountain Resort located in Aristi. Apart from the comfort and discreet eco-friendly luxury of the rooms, it also has an amazing indoor heated pool and a unique view (aristi.eu).
Hiking around the trails of Aristi village.
在阿里斯蒂村小径上远足。
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intertime at Zagorohoria is magical, but it can often be hard and the activities for inexperienced climbers and hikers can be significantly limited. For example, it is impossible to cross the Vikos gorge - the world’s deepest in relation to its opening - or go up Drakolimni on Mount Tymfi at an altitude of 2,000 metres. Still, one can marvel at the Voidomatis river, the region’s stone built bridges and explore many of the 46 stunning villages embraced by the snow-capped The famous Pita tis Kikitsas in Monodendri village. mountains. And of course, visitors can always 莫诺登德里村著名皮塔饼。 snuggle up in one of the area’s great guesthouses, enjoy a hot drink and tsipouro in front of the fireplace. Furthermore, Zagori, with its two national parks and virgin nature, is a source of outstanding raw materials (meat, dairy products, wild greens, herbs, mushrooms, forest fruits) that can be turned into amazing dishes. 扎戈里村落的冬季充满魅力,但 对于经验不足的登山者和徒步 神奇的休 旅行者来说,在这里活动可能受 到极大的限制。例如不可能越过 闲胜地 维科斯峡谷(世界上最深的峡谷,其开放时间受限) ,也 没办法登上海拔2000米蒂姆菲山脉的Drakolimni高 峰。尽管如此,人们仍然可以游览Voidomatis河流,惊叹古老的石砌桥梁, 探索被雪山环抱的46个迷人小村庄。当然游客可以随时选择入住当地旅 店,在暖烘烘的壁炉前享用一杯美味热饮或七浦罗烈酒。此外,扎戈里地区 还坐落着两座国家公园,拥有充满魅力的原始自然风光,盛产各种高品质农 产品(肉,奶制品,野菜,香草,蘑菇,森林水果等),通常被制成精美的菜肴。
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扎戈里
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毫无疑问,该地区最顶级的 住宿选择便是位于阿里斯蒂 的阿里斯蒂山区度假村。除 了舒适而低调奢华的客房 外,这里还拥有一个迷人的 室内温水游泳池,享有独特 的风景(aristi.eu) 。
各式美味馅饼是扎戈里村 庄美食不可错过的一部分, 一定要在Monodendri(+30 26530 71340)的Pita tis Kikitsas品尝,这里还提供美 味kontosouvli(肉类串烤) 。 Salvia(+30 26530 41330) 是Aristi山区度假村餐厅,供 应传统风味美食,还有各种 当地奶酪和丰富的葡萄酒选 择。在Elati的Riza餐厅(+30 26530 71550) ,您可以品尝 美味的李子木瓜炖野猪肉。
© SHUTTERSTOCK. PERIKLES MERAKOS. VIA GOOGLE.
Zagori
Magical getaway
Evritania �W
At the Prousos Monastery.
普鲁索斯修道院。
Landscape of serenity
ild vegetation, deep ravines, traditional settlements perched on snowy slopes and, above all, a sense of mountainous serenity far from the hustle and bustle of modern life. This is Evritania, one of the most authentic parts of Greece. A welcoming and ideal location for a few days of rest and relaxation. Its heart is Karpenissi, a city of 7,000 inhabitants at an altitude of approximately 1,000 metres. Above it, are the precipitous peaks of Tymfristos and within a short distance we find the beautiful villages like Koryschades, Mikro and Megalo Horio, Fidakia, the tiny Kalesmeno and others. They are all built with stone and hide amongst the fir trees. On a good day, you can visit the Pandavrechi gorge, take a walk on one of the hundreds of mountain trails, visit the impressive Prousos Monastery, or enjoy the various activities (horse riding, climbing, cable chair lifts etc.) offered by the Saloon Park near Koryschades. Alternatively, you can just snuggle up in a guesthouse or cafe and enjoy a hot beverage while listening to the crackling fireplace.
Spoon sweets at Gavros village.
加夫罗斯村各式甜点。
埃里塔尼亚 宁静的风景
丰富的野生植被,深不见底的沟壑,传统定居点栖息在白雪皑 皑的山坡上,最重要的是这里远离现代生活的喧嚣,充满了山 区特有的宁静与祥和。这里便是埃里塔尼亚——希腊最传统的 地区之一,温馨的氛围是短期休假放松的理想选择。这里的中 心城市是卡尔派尼西,拥有7000名居民,海拔约1000米。城市 上方是滕布里斯托斯陡峭的山峰,不远处坐落着美丽的村庄 群,如Koryschades,Mikro和Megalo Horio,Fidakia,小 Kalesmeno等,村落建筑都由石头建造而成,隐藏在枞树林中。 天气好的时候,可以游览Pandavrechi峡谷,在数百条山路中漫 步,参观令人印象深刻的Prousos修道院,或在Koryschades 附近的Saloon公园参加各种活动(骑马、攀岩、缆索升降机等)。 另外,您也可以在酒吧或咖啡厅闲逛,一边听着劈啪作响的壁 炉,一边享用美味热饮。
Fidakia village under the snow.
VISUALHELLAS.GR, CONSTANTIN PILAVIOS/WWW.CPIL.INFO
雪中菲达基亚村。
Riding at the Saloon Park.
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In the region’s villages, especially in Kalesmeno and Paparousi, an excellent berry is produced, also known as “the nectar of Evritania”. It is an alcoholic drink with a deep taste derived from the blackberry fruits. Evritania is also famous for its katiki and tsalafouri cheeses, mountain herbs, fir honey, spoon sweets, sausages and prosciutto.
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There are several excellent tavernas both in the villages and in Karpenissi which mostly serve local meat based dishes. There is also a variety of high quality lodgings available. One of the best is the Oniropetra hotel just five kilometres from Karpenissi, which can be a starting point for explorations around the entire region (oniropetra.gr).
Saloon公园 骑行。
Cosy accommodation at Oniropetra hotel.
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舒适的Oniropetra酒店。
该地区村庄生产优质莓果,尤其是Kalesmeno和 Paparousi两地,同时还以“埃里塔尼亚花蜜”有名,这是 一种酒精饮料,具有来自黑莓水果的香醇味道。埃里塔尼 亚还有许多著名当地产品,包括katiki和tsalafouri奶酪, 香料,冷杉蜂蜜,甜点,香肠和火腿等。
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在卡尔派尼西城和小村庄中有不少优质小酒馆,供应当 地肉类美食,也有各种高质量住宿酒店可供选择。最好的 酒店之一是距卡尔派尼西城仅5公里的Oniropetra酒店, 这里也是整座地区探险的起点(oniropetra.gr) 。 ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE /
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Heading to Hania village.
前往干尼亚。
© PERIKLES MERAKOS
P E LI O N
Road trip to the
© DIMITRIS VLAIKOS
— BY GI O RG O S PA NAGI OTA K I S —
Paradisos tavern in Tsagarada.
萨加拉达的Paradisos小酒馆。
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© PERIKLES MERAKOS
皮 立 翁 山
通 往 神 奇 之 山 的 公 路 之 旅
— 撰 稿: 季 奥 吉 斯· 帕 纳 吉 奥 塔 吉 斯 —
magical mountain
Visitsa village.
Visitsa村庄。
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Volos is the ancient city of Iolkos – the starting point for the mythical journey of Jason and the Argonauts. The city’s coastal front is perfect for endless walks. The Archaeological Museum is of particular interest exhibiting impressive findings from the Neolithic settlements of Sesklo and Dimini (Athanasaki 1, 08:30-16:00, €4).
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The tsipouradiko (traditional eatery serving tsipouro usually accompanied by appetizers) is the trademark of Volos. Here, with every carafe you order, the waiter will also bring a surprise dish – usually with seafood delicacies. Two very good and popular options are Demiris (Efraimidou 23, N. Ionia Volos, +30 24210 65559) and Giota (Krokiou 15, +30 6947074830).
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沃洛斯便是古城伊尔科斯所在地,也是杰森和阿尔 贡神话之旅的起点,这座城市的海滨非常适合休闲散 步。特别值得参观的还有考古博物馆,展出塞斯克洛 和迪米尼新石器时代定居点令人印象深刻的考古发现 (Athanasaki 1,08:30-16:00,4欧元) 。
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七浦罗蒂考(提供开胃小吃搭配七浦罗烈酒的传统餐 厅)是沃罗斯的标志。在这里,不论您点任何酒水,服务员 都将为您精心搭配小吃,通常是美味的海鲜拼盘。两个非 常不错且受欢迎的餐厅选择是Demiris(Efraimidou 23, N. Ionia Volos,+ 30 24210 65559)和Giota(Krokiou 15, + 30 6947074830) 。
hey say that every journey begins with a single step. Mine, however, begins at a tsipouradiko in Nea Ionia of Volos. I am here with Giorgos Goutzoulias, a photographer, filmmaker and an expert on the secrets of Pelion. As the night goes on, my notebook fills with notes and the meze snacks keep on coming. Our conversation comes to the Centaurs, the mythical half 话说“千里之行始于足下”,而我的千里之行始于沃洛斯州新艾奥尼 human, half horse creatures. The ancient Greeks would 亚的七浦罗蒂考。 与我同行的是乔治·古竹里亚斯,他是一位摄影师、 imagine them galloping through the forests of Pelion, 电影制片人以及皮立翁地区专家。 夜幕降临时,我的笔记本上记满了 but Giorgos has his own interpretation: “It seems our 密密麻麻的文字,而丰盛的小吃拼盘也不断涌来。我们谈到人头马怪,这是希腊 ancestors loved tsipouro a little too much”. 神话中半人半马的生物,古希腊人通常认为他们会在皮立翁森林中恣意奔驰,
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但乔治有他自己的解释: “看来我们的祖先太喜欢七浦罗了”。
Demiris小酒馆的海鲜美味。
Saint Constantine and Helen church in Volos City.
沃罗斯城的圣康斯坦丁和海伦教堂。
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Sea food at Demiris "tsipouradiko".
Stone fountain with fresh water in Makrinitsa. Makrinitsa天然石喷泉。
Typical traditional house in Portaria village. Portaria村的典型传统房子。
FROM WEST TO EAST We leave the apartment blocks of Volos in the morning and before we even realise it, our car is already heading up the verdant slopes of Pelion. The villages of Portaria and Makrinitsa are a just short distance from the city centre - 12 and 15km respectively. Yet, you get the feeling that you’ve been travelling for hundreds of miles. The climate here is completely different and so is the aesthetic style. All around you, are tower houses with rooftops made of Pelion stone slabs, cobbled streets and stone fountains. There is a prevailing sense of affluence and tidiness. We admire the stunning view of Volos and the sea from the square of Makrinitsa, but the cold under the centenarian plane trees is piercing. So, we go for a coffee to the tiny cafe Theofilos, which has an impressive naive mural painting by Theophilos (1870-1934), the folk painter who lived in poverty and received worldwide recognition posthumously. If it was later in the day, we would have also tried the traditional boubari (beef sausage spleen stuffed with rice), but we decide to contain our appetite and continue walking around taking pictures of the miniature chapel of Agios Prodromos, the bizarre fountain the locals call “Immortal Water” and the architectural details of the houses, some of which have been converted into tasteful guesthouses. We will also pass by the Topalis Mansion which houses the Museum of Folk Art and History of Pelion, before returning to Portaria. Our plan is to take the enchanting hiking trail “Path of Centaurs” around the village over wooden bridges and dense vegetation. We choose the shortest route and twenty-five minutes later we find ourselves sitting in front of the lit fireplace at Kritsa’s restaurant where we can -finally- try boubari and other Pelion-style flavours with subtle gourmet touches.
从西向东
清晨离开沃洛斯公寓,片刻之间,我们的车已驶向郁郁 葱葱的皮立翁山峰。Portaria和Makrinitsa村庄距离市 中心很近,分别为12公里和15公里,但当到达这里时,感 觉仿佛已经行驶了数百英里。此地的气候完全不同,审 美偏好也与城市大相径庭。村内四周遍布塔楼,屋顶由 皮立翁当地石板制成,鹅卵石铺成的羊肠小道与石制喷 泉相互交错,处处彰显着村庄的整洁与富足。 从小尼察广场可欣赏整座沃洛斯城延伸至大海 的壮丽景色,广场上百年老树荫下寒风刺骨,因此我 们决定去附近的Theof ilos咖啡厅小坐,厅内挂有 Theophilos(1870-1934)一幅令人印象深刻的生动壁 画,这位民间画家曾生活极度贫困,在其去世后其作品 终于获得了全世界的认可。如果时间稍晚一点,我们应 该会去品尝传统boubari(牛肉香肠酿米饭),但我们最 终决定抑制食欲,继续四处闲逛并拍摄了很多照片,包 括微型教堂Agios Prodromos,喷出被当地人称为“不 朽止水”的怪异喷泉,还有小镇上别具一格的建筑物,其 中一些房屋已被改建为典雅别致的旅馆。 返回Portaria之前,我们还将经过坐落着民俗艺术与 皮立翁山历史博物馆的Topalis大厦。我们的计划是沿 着大名鼎鼎的“人头马怪之路”远足小径穿越村庄,途中 将经过古老的木桥和茂密的森林植被。我们选择了最短 路线,二十五分钟后已经安坐于Kritsa餐厅的壁炉旁, 在这里,我们终于吃到了可口的boubari以及其他各种 独一无二的皮立翁风味佳肴。
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arly in the afternoon, elated and with a full stomach, we arrive at Where to stay | 住宿推荐 Chania where we come across the first snowfall. This settlement is lo−V aleni Boutique Hotel & Spa, Portaria, valeni.gr −E vilion, Makrinitsa, Evilion1856.gr cated at the crossing from the west to east Pelion, in a dense beech tree −P rigos Mansion, Zagora, prigos.gr forest. In the past, merchants and travellers would stay at the lodges of this settlement. Today, it is the unofficial entry to the Agriolefkes ski resort Where to eat | 餐厅推荐 where skiers can go down the slopes enjoying the view of the Pagasetic Gulf on −K ritsa, Portaria, +30 24280 99121 one side and the Aegean Sea on the other. We are now well into the mountain’s −K ardamo, Makrinitsa, +30 24280 90131 arms. A few kilometres further, we turn towards Pelion’s northeast side. The −P atis-Oinomagiremata, Zagora, +30 24260 22202 −M eintani, Zagora, +30 24260 22626 asphalt road passes through forests of beech, oak and chestnut trees. Enchanted, we drive along, in and out of the dense fog, until we reach a turn and the village of Zagora appears right in front of us with the vast Aegean Sea in the background.. This is 足饭饱之后,我们于午后达到了干尼亚州,在这里我们遇到了第一场雪。 the most populous village of Pelion, a vibrant community 这里的村落位于皮立翁山区从西向东交界处茂密的山毛榉森林中。 过去, with a grand past that is reflected in its old mansions. 商人和旅行者会在这里小木屋中停留,如今,这里已成为Agriolefkes滑雪胜地 During the 18th and 19th centuries, Zagora held the reins 的非正式入口,滑雪者可以沿着山坡下行,欣赏一边是Pagasetic海湾另一边 in silk production. It also had wool processing workshops 是爱琴海的美丽景色。现在我们已经深入大山的怀抱中,再过几公里,我们将 and a large fleet of merchant sailboats. Zagora is world 向皮立翁山东北侧行进。柏油马路在山毛榉、橡树和栗树构成的森林中穿梭, famous for its apples, which have been marketed exclu我们飞驰前进,烟雾朦胧如梦境一般,直到一转弯,扎戈拉村庄蓦然映入眼帘, sively by the locals’ Cooperative since 1916. 以广阔而宁静的爱琴海为背景。这里是皮立翁地区人口最稠密的山村,充满活 We stroll around the four main neighbourhoods and 力,随处可见的古老宅院反映着其辉煌的历史。18至19世纪,扎戈拉村掌管丝 squares, visit historic buildings, such as the Public Library 绸生产,还拥有羊毛加工作坊和大量商船。扎戈拉的苹果世界闻名,自1916年 and the so-called “School of Rigas” from the early 18th 以来由当地人组成合作社进行独家销售。 century, chat with the locals and shop for local products: 我们在四大主要社区和广场漫步,参观历史悠久的建筑物,包括公共图书馆 spoon sweets, home-made 和建于18世纪初的“里加斯学校” ,与当地人聊天并购买 marmalade, handmade liquors, 各种当地产品:糖果、果酱、手工酒和干香料,当然还有 dried herbs and of course -what 苹果。夜幕降临,阵阵寒意使我们食欲大增。当地人推荐 else?- apples. Night has already Patis和Meidani餐厅。我们随意去了第一家,果然不负 fallen and the cold has given us 众望,我们品尝了独特的葡萄酒酿野猪肉,野生蘑菇和 an appetite. The locals recom传统美味馅饼,搭配红葡萄酒,实在让人大快朵颐。几个 mend the restaurants Patis and 小时后,我享受了人生中最美好的酣睡。 Meidani. We randomly pick the first and we’re not disappointed. We try the wild boar with wine sauce, wild mushrooms and a traditional pie accompanied by red wine, and a 山间小道 few hours later, we enjoy one of the best sleeps of our lives. 享用一顿丰盛的早餐后,我们绕着扎戈拉进行最后的 Strolling around the villages.
村中漫步。
ON THE MOUNTAIN TRAILS
After a good breakfast, one more walk around Zagora and a bit of gazing at the stormy Aegean Sea, we head south. We take the road towards the impressive, though deserted this time of year, beaches of Horefto and Agioi Saranta. We ascend once again and reach Makrirachi, also known as the “flower village” since many inhabitants are engaged in floriculture producing camellias, hydrangeas, gardenias and others. We buy bread from the traditional wood oven bakery at the square and carry on. The route is somewhat tedious, but we are compensated by the view of lush vegetation, the dense tree foliage towering above us and the Aegean view as it comes and goes. We pass Anilio, a village mostly in the shade, and make a detour to visit Kissos, a charming village drowned in greenery. Among other things here, we find a beautiful 17th century church, as well as two excellent restaurants. We are expected by Evi at Kissos. She has a country house in East Pelion and she is well aware of the area’s trails. We take the trail leading to the Agriolefka ski resort and walk for some time among plane and chestnut trees, next to streams and small waterfalls. Following the autumn rain, the inhabitants of Pelion flock to the mountains and collect chestnuts and wild mushrooms. Even though we are well into the winter, we also see some mushrooms peeking out of chestnut roots. Evi points out the edible ones and collects a few. We will savour them for lunch along with an excellent homemade spetsofai (sausage stew with peppers). 92 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
漫步,凝视波涛汹涌的爱琴海,之后向南行驶。我们沿 路前往令人印象深刻的Horefto和Agioi Saranta海 滩,尽管这个时间这里一片荒芜。我们再次上行,到达了 Makrirachi,这里也被称为“花之乡”,因为许多当地村 民从事花卉业,种植山茶花、绣球花、栀子花等。我们从 广场上传统木烤面包店购买了面包,然后继续。这条路 线有些单调乏味,但沿途茂密的植被,大路两旁的绿荫 塔以及爱琴海美丽的景色都让我们倍感欣慰。 我们经过山脚下的Anilio村庄,之后绕道参观基索 斯,这是一个被绿色植物淹没的迷人小村庄。就是在这 里,我们找到了一座美丽的17世纪教堂,以及两家一流 餐厅。艾菲热情接待了我们,她在东皮立翁山拥有一栋 乡间别墅,对当地徒步轨道非常了解。我们最终决定沿 着通往Agriolefka滑雪胜地的步道前行,穿梭在梧桐 和栗树林之间,以溪流和小瀑布相伴。秋雨过后,皮立 翁山区当地村民纷纷涌向山坡,采集栗子和野蘑菇。即 使到了冬天,我们也经常可以看到一些蘑菇从栗子根中 冒出来。艾菲告诉我们如何辨别可食用蘑菇并采集了一 些,这些稍后成为了我们鲜美的午餐,当然还有可口的 Spetsofai(香肠炖青椒)。
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Where to eat | 餐厅推荐 − 5 F (O Makis), Kissos, +30 24260 31266 −S ynantisi, Kissos, +30 24260 31620
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At Makrinitsa's central square. Makrinitsa中心广场。
Church of Saint George (Zagora).
圣乔治教堂(扎戈拉) 。
Zagora village.
扎戈拉村庄。
Synantisi taverna for meat lovers (Kissos). Synantisi肉酒馆(基索斯) 。
Milk pie served with local forest berries.
森林蔓越莓牛奶派。
Elaborate old door. 精致古朴 的大门。
Apples from Zagora village.
扎戈拉村庄苹果。
Sea view from Tsagarada village.
从萨加拉达村庄俯瞰海景。
Megas Platanos in Tsagarada.
萨加拉达村庄Megas Platanos树。
Ready for cooking in Amanita Guesthouse.
Amanita餐厅准备美食。
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Night time has fallen by the time we reach Tsagarada. We spend our evening at Where to eat | 餐厅推荐 the Dipnosofistis bar-restaurant just outside the village, tasting wines from their −K alyvi, Tsagarada, +30 24260 49578 rich cellar accompanied by light gourmet flavours. In the morning, we begin −P aradisos, Tsagarada, +30 24260 49209 exploring Tsagarada, which proudly stretches all the way to the verdant slopes. −A leka, Tsagarada, +30 24260 49380 Between the houses and the four picturesque squares we find beautiful guest−D ipnosofistis, Tsagarada, +30 2426 049825 houses, good restaurants, charming cafes, traditional pastry shops, but also small bars. However, the undisputed ‘star’ of Tsagarada is actually a tree! Boasting at least a thousand 探索皮立翁山东部 years of life, Megas Platanos rises gloriously next to the church of Agia Paraskevi at the homonymous square. 到达萨加拉达时已经是晚上了,我们在村外的Dipnosofistis酒吧餐厅度过了 The steep downhill hillside road soon leads to the re美好的时光,这里拥有丰富的葡萄酒选择,并搭配各种风味小吃。清晨我们开 nowned beaches of Mylopotamos and Fakistra that have 始探索萨加拉达,美丽的村庄一直延伸至翠绿的山坡之上。这里有四个风景如 an exceptional wild beauty this time of year. A little fur画的广场,其中布满了美丽的旅馆、高档餐厅、迷人咖啡馆、传统糕点店以及小 ther north is Damouchari, the only small natural port on 酒吧。但毫无疑问,萨加拉达的“明星”实际上是一棵树!Megas Platanos拥有 this side of Pelion. This quaint settlement became world 至少一千年的树龄,骄傲地伫立于同名广场圣帕拉斯凯维教堂旁侧。 famous in 2008, when some scenes of the Mama Mia film 陡峭的下坡山路很快将我们带到大名鼎鼎的Mylopotamos和Fakistra海 were shot on location here. Another highlight of our stay 滩,每年这个时候这里的野外风光尤其迷人。再往北一点是达鲁扎里,这是皮 in East Pelion, was hiking from Tsagarada through the 立翁山东侧唯一的天然小港口。这个古朴的定居点在2008年举世闻名,因为电 dense forest towards the village of Mouresi. It is located 影《妈妈咪呀》曾在这里取景。另外值得一提的是我们从萨加拉达村穿过茂密 just above Damouchari and from certain spots the view 的森林徒步前往Mouresi村,这里位于Damouchari上方,可以欣赏到爱琴海 of the Aegean is truly breathtaking. 令人窒息的美景。 94 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
© DIMITRIS VLAIKOS. VIA AMANITA.GR. VIA INSTAGRAM. VIA GOOGLE.
EXPLORING EAST PELION
Where to stay | 住宿推荐 − 1 2 Months Luxury Resort, Tsagarada, 12hotel.gr −A manita, Tsagarada, amanita.gr −A dis Oneirou, Mouresi, adisoneirou.gr
ON THE ROAD SOUTH We bid farewell to Tsagarada and head south. Gradually the landscape changes. The dense forests give way to low vegetation and rich olive groves. Our destination is Argalasti, the large semi-mountainous village in South Pelion. The architecture here is not typical of Pelion. Most houses have tiled roofs and we also see several neoclassical mansions. Sections of medieval and ancient buildings are still visible on the walls of the older houses. All the cobbled streets lead to the main square where the heart of the village beats. There we find the three-aisled basilica of Agion Apostolon with its strange 19th century bell tower, as well as cafes, shops, grill-houses and eateries. Even larger and impressive is the cobbled square of Lafkos, just a few kilometres away. Apart from the old church, the restaurants and the traditional wood-fired bakery, we also find a cafe that has been running since 1785. Many of the stately houses are even older than that and stand out thanks to the marble balconies, elaborate ceilings and wood-paneled stairways. Both Argalasti and Lafkos become more lively during summer when the ‘estranged’ folks return to their hometown. After all, there are wonderful beaches within close range on the side of the Aegean, as well as the Pagasitic Gulf. Continuing southward, you will find a number of seaside resorts (Milina, Marathias, Kotes) before reaching the peninsula’s tip, which resembles a crab pincer. This is where the village of Trikeri is located, as well as the miniscule homonymous island with twenty inhabitants which you can visit by sea taxi to enjoy the sea, the serenity and excellent seafood. But we don’t want to leave the mountain of the Centaurs. So, we return north and after a stop at the picturesque village of Neochori which is still untouched by tourism, we turn towards the west side of Pelion.
Lafkos village.
拉夫科斯村庄。
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Where to stay | 住宿推荐 −X enonas ton Chromaton, Lafkos, fotuarthotel.gr −L agou Raxi, Lafkos, lagouraxi.com Where to eat | 餐厅推荐 −D rosia, Lafkos, +30 24230 65078 −G iannis O Germanos, Neochori, +30 24230 55390
一路向南
告别萨加拉达,我们向南行驶,沿途景观逐渐发生变化。茂 密的高山森林被低山植被和丰富的橄榄树林所取代。我们 目的地是Argalasti,这座位于南部皮立翁山脉的大型半 山区村庄。这里的建筑风格并不是皮立翁地区的典型风 格,大多数房屋屋顶都以瓷砖建造,还有几栋新古典主义 风格建筑。不少老房子墙壁上仍然可以看到中世纪和古 代建筑遗迹。鹅卵石铺成的街道都通向主广场,这里是整 个村庄的心脏,坐落着阿基翁·阿波斯托隆三层大教堂,以 及其奇特的19世纪钟楼,四周环绕着各种咖啡馆、商店、 烧烤店和餐馆。 几公里之外的拉夫科斯鹅卵石广场更加令人印象深刻, 除了古老的教堂、餐厅和传统燃木面包店外,我们还发现 了一家自1785年以来就一直营业的咖啡馆。广场中还有 许多大气磅礴的宅院甚至比这更古老,光滑的大理石阳 台,精美的天花板以及木制楼梯使它们别具一格。夏季 当“离家”的游子返回家乡时,Argalasti和拉夫科斯都变 得更加热闹。毕竟,这里不仅拥有美丽的爱琴海海滩,还有 Pagasitic海湾迷人的风景。 继续向南我们穿过许多海滨度假胜地(米利纳,马拉地 亚,科特斯),之后到达半岛的顶端,如同螃蟹的钳子。这 是便是特里克里村,也是一个迷你同名岛屿,岛上只有二 十个居民,可以乘小船前往,欣赏大海美丽的景色,还有 机会品尝美味海鲜。但我们并不想离人头马怪山脉,因此 我们决定向北返回,在风景如画的尼奥霍里村小憩片刻, 这里的旅游业还未被开发,之后我们转向皮立翁山西部。
A freshly baked pie at a local bakery. 当地面包房刚出炉 的新鲜馅饼。
1785 cafe in Lafkos village.
拉夫科斯村庄1785咖啡厅。
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At the old church of Taxiarches in Milies village. 米利斯村庄古老的Taxiarches教堂。
Pinakates village. Pinakates村庄。
Exploring the mountain.
探索山区。
Giorgaras taverna, Vizitsa. Giorgaras酒馆,Vizitsa。
"Anna na ena milo" cafe.
"Anna na ena milo"咖啡厅。
The nostalgic "Moutzouris".
充满怀旧氛围的“Moutzouris” 。
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At the Milies' train station. 米利斯火车站。
THE PELION TRAIN
皮立翁山火车
The Aegean is no longer in sight and on our left side, we 爱琴海渐渐消失,展现在我们左侧的是Pagasetic海湾平静的水域。我们再次见 have the calm waters of the Pagasetic Gulf. The landscape 到了皮立翁山区典型的自然景观,不一会儿我们便发现自己身处米利斯小型火 has once again become typical of Pelion and after a while 车站,这是皮立翁山历史悠久的蒸汽火车“梦祖里斯”的终点。火车于1896年开 we find ourselves at the tiny train station of Milies, the 始提供服务,往返于沃洛斯至米利斯的路线,运送客人、牲畜和商品,直至1971 end of the line for “Moutzouris”, Pelion’s historic steam 年不再运行,但1985年它被宣布为保存完好的历史古迹,并于1996年重新开放。 train. It began its service in 1896, covering the Volos乘坐古老的火车,从加兹亚到米利斯,穿越令人难以置信的高山地区,实在是一 Milies route transporting people, livestock and merchan次毕生难忘的经历。但我们很不幸运,火车因为天气原因只在春季到秋季运行, dise. By 1971, it was no longer in operation, but in 1985 其余时间只能出租使用。 我们沿着60厘米宽的铁轨走了大约500米,到达20世纪 it was declared a preserved historical monument and reo初一座小型工程奇迹: 以其创造者名字命名的Evaristo De Chirico桥,桥面上 pened in 1996. The journey from Gatzea to Milies with 的铁轨实际上是弯曲的。埃瓦里斯托(Evaristo)是意大利著名画家Giorgio De the old train through the incredible mountain scenery is Chirico的父亲,他出生于沃洛斯。 an unforgettable experience. Unfortunately for us, it only runs from spring to autumn, as long as weather permits. The rest of the time, the train is only available as a rental. We walk along the 60cm wide rails for about five hundred metres, until we reach a small engineering marvel from the early twentieth century: The bridge of Evaristo De Chirico as it is known, named after its creator. The rail tracks that lie on 返回西部 it are actually curved. Evaristo was the father of the famous Italian painter Giorgio De Chirico, who was born in Volos. 在 皮 立 翁 山 区 之 行 期 间 ,我 们 获 得 了 巨 大 的 感
官 满 足 ,见 到 了 诸 多 风 景 如 画 的 希 腊 山 村 :米 利 斯,Vizitsa,Pinakates,Agios Georgios Nileas等,一 个比一个更美。在米利斯,我们参观了古老的Taxiarches 教堂(于1741年重新装修)、民俗博物馆和图书馆(希腊最 During our stay in this part of Pelion, we will take in mental pictures and 古老的图书馆之一)。在Aloni餐厅尝试自制馅饼和美味 sensations and meet some of Greece’s most picturesque mountainous vil的田园蔬菜,在Anna Na Ena Milo品尝精美甜点,在To lages: Milies, Vizitsa, Pinakates, Agios Georgios Nileas and more, with Rodo Kai To Aidoni享用精美鸡尾酒。这些地区的常客 one being more beautiful than the other. In Milies, we will visit the very 还推荐Panorama小酒馆的烤肉以及Salkimi的君士坦丁 old church of Taxiarches (renovated in 1741), the folklore museum and the 堡风味家常菜。在村庄外的Liostasi餐厅,您将享用纯正的 library – one of the oldest in Greece. We will also try great homemade pies 皮立翁美食并欣赏现场音乐表演。在附近令人难以置信的 and garden vegetables at the Aloni restaurant, have a dessert at Anna, Na 迷人Vizitsa村庄,我们购买当地产品,尤其是由当地妇女 Ena Milo and enjoy a cocktail at To Rodo Kai To Aidoni. Those privy to 合作社Esperides制作的各式糖果点心,在翠绿的广场上 the area also recommend the grilled meat at the taverna Panorama and the 品尝咖啡,之后漫步于大气磅礴的古宅中,其中许多现在 home cooked meals with touches from Constantinople served in Salkimi. 都用作旅馆。在Pinakates,我们品尝广场上传统面包店 You will find good Pelion cuisine and live music at Liostasi, just outside 自制的酸面包,在鹅卵石铺成的安静街巷上散步,欣赏美 the village. At the nearby and incredibly charming Vizitsa we will buy local 景:一面是大海环绕的橄榄树林,另一面是栗树和小苹果 products, especially spoon sweets made by the women’s cooperative of the 树构成的山地森林。 village named Esperides, have a coffee in the verdant square and walk among Agios Georgios Nilias的风景更加生动,除了典型的皮 the stately mansions, many of which now serve as guesthouses. At Pinakates 立翁风格建筑外,这里还有高耸入云的新古典主义风格豪 we will relish the sourdough bread from the traditional bakery at the square 宅,以及绚烂多彩的彩虹房屋(粉红色,姜黄色,浅蓝色和 and then walk the quiet cobbled streets to admire the view: On the one hand 棕红色)。所有这一切,都融入在令人叹为观止的风景中。 olive groves and the sea, and on the other, chestnut trees, the apple trees that 在Agios Georgios,我们还找到了一流的Anovolio酒店 produce the local firiki and the mountain peaks. 和Stefanis餐厅,提供各式美味开胃小吃。我们品尝了山 The scenery at Agios Georgios Nilias is even more vivid. Apart from the 羊奶酪、蘑菇炖牛肉以及当地蔬菜tsitsiravla,这是皮立翁 typical Pelion-style houses, you also find neoclassical mansions towering 山人最喜爱的不起眼的绿色蔬菜,他们通常在春季采集, in front of you, but also colour coated houses (pink, ochre, light blue and 腌制后供全年食用。 Venetian red). And all of this, right in a breathtaking landscape. In Agios 最终,我们沿海岸线返回沃洛斯城,途中这座美丽的山 Georgios we also find the excellent Anovolio hotel and the Stefanis restau脉如同吸铁石一般再次吸引了我们,我们决定改变计划, rant with delicious meze appetizers. Among other things we try goat cheese, 绕行参观Agios Lavrentios。这座村庄汽车无法进入,因 fricassee mushrooms and tsitsiravla, the humble greens loved by the people 此我们下车沿着破旧的鹅卵石街道步行至美丽的广场。 of Pelion. They collect them in spring and consume them 当最后一次体验皮 pickled all year round. 立翁山无法抗拒的 We eventually take the coastal road back to Volos. Once 美丽时,我们终于明 Where to stay | 住宿推荐 again though, the mountain draws us like a magnet and 白了原来当人头马 −A novolios, Agios Georgios Nilias, anovolios.gr we make an unscheduled detour to visit Agios Lavrentios. 怪选择到此定居时, −A rhontiko Sakali, Pinakates, sakalihotel.gr Cars cannot enter the village, so we park and take the 它已经看穿了一切。 Where to eat | 餐厅推荐 timeworn cobbled streets towards the beautiful square. −S tefanis, Agios Georgios Nilias, +30 24280 93000 And, as we get a final taste of Pelion’s irresistible beauty, −S alkimi, Milies, +30 24230 86010 we think of the obvious: In the end, the Centaurs knew ex−A loni, Milies, +30 24230 86426 actly what they were doing when they came to reside here. −P anorama, Milies, +30 24230 86128 −L iostasi, Milies, +30 24230 86082 −G iorgaras, Vizitsa, +30 24230 86359
© PERIKLES MERAKOS, SOTIRIS KARAGIANNAKIS @SOTIRISKAR_, EIRINI TSARPALI @RENETSARP, SHUTTERSTOCK. VIA GOOGLE.
RETURN TO THE WEST
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A WARM THANKS TO PANOS ASIOTIS, THANOS AND EVITA CHRISTIANOU FOR THEIR VALUABLE INFORMATION AND ADVICE ON PELION.
衷心感谢Panos Asiotis,Thanos和Evita Christianou提供有关皮立翁宝贵信息和建议。
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登录杂志官网,随时查阅更新内容 UNDER THE AUSPICES OF GNTO 我们的杂志得到了希腊旅 游局的官方支持
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travel your –by lina stamatiou– – 撰稿:琳娜•斯塔马提奥–
SENSES 行天下
感觉
90’s style coctails with a twist at Privilege Athens p. 100
改良90年代 风格鸡尾酒, 特权雅典酒吧。
ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE /
99
t ra vel yo u r
感觉
– SENSES –
– 行天下 –
New ENTRIES 新开张
雅典美景下众多令人兴奋的餐 厅、酒店和酒吧供您选择!
EXCITING EXCITING RESTAURANTS, RESTAURANTS, HOTEL HOTEL AND AND BAR BAR ADDITIONS ADDITIONS TO THE ATHENIAN SCENE. TO THE ATHENIAN SCENE. DISCOVER DISCOVER ALL ALL THE THE NEW NEW SPOTS SPOTS AND AND ENJOY! ENJOY!
T
he renowned DJ and producer Vassilis Tsilichristos reestablishes a club, which culminated during the late 90’s in the Athenian scene. However now, it’s not just a club, but a luxurious bar-restaurant with a truly stunning view of the Acropolis, that loves groovy music and good food. Right from the entrance you get a first glimpse of the venue’s aesthetic, drawing inspiration from antiquity: bits of columns hang above your head leading to the lift that takes you to the rooftop. Tables are placed across the main bar, which above has an imposing bust of goddess Athena. The exceptional contemporary Mediterranean cuisine is the trump card here and the cocktails are curated by the world renowned bar Lost + Found from Nicosia. (Voutadon 6, Gazi, +30 2289200000, +30 6944318834, metro: Kerameikos)
PRIVILEGE ATHENS 特权雅典
SYMPOSIO Every Monday, hosted by Kostas Zikos Every Monday, radio producer and devoted oenophile Kostas Zikos, ‘orchestrates’ a unique meeting for food, wine and music. Each time, he features a different Greek wine producer, with a special food and wine pairing menu and wines for you to sample, selects an ambient electronic soundtrack with some ethnic touches and takes you on a unique and easy-going tour of the Greek vineyards. Among his selections are also some adaptations of classic Greek instrumentalists... 100 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
Kostas Ziko特别盛会
著
名DJ兼制作人Vassilis Tsilichristos重建俱乐 部酒吧,该俱乐部曾在90年代后 期的雅典市独树一帜。现在重建之后的它不仅 仅是俱乐部,也是一家尽享卫城美景,品味时 髦音乐和精致美食的豪华酒吧餐厅。从餐厅入 口处您一眼就能感受到这里独一无二的美感: 以上古时代为灵感,屋顶上方悬挂着装饰柱直 至电梯入口,从这里到达超级有氛围的屋顶花 园。餐桌摆放于主吧台中央,吧台上方是气势 宏伟的雅典娜女神雕像。这里主打出色的现代 地中海美食,还有来自尼科西亚世界知名酒吧 Lost + Found著名调酒师精心调制的各色鸡 尾酒。 (Voutadon 6,Gazi,+30 2289200000, +30 6944318834,地铁:Kerameikos)
每周一,广播制作人兼葡萄酒行家Kostas Zikos都会组织一次独特的美食、美酒与音乐盛会。 每次挑选不同的希腊葡萄酒生产商,搭配独特美食并提供相应的葡萄酒清单供您品尝,选择带 有民族特色的电子音乐为背景,为您开启一场独一无二的希腊葡萄酒庄园之旅。在他选择中通 常还包括一些古希腊器乐演奏家的改编作品。
O
Dirty Mani
ne can only be intrigued by this dark blue-green metal box that sprouted amidst apartment blocks and shops in Koukaki. And if not, then just pinpoint the vintage yellow Mini Cooper parked right in front. This designy canteen serves offbeat a-la-Grec street food such as the tripleta, a souvlaki with travihti pita from Mani and pork skewer, kefalotyri cheese and afrina Tainarou salt, and pocket pittas with all sorts of fillings, like Greek salad and/or moussaka, all delicious and definitely filling. (Dimitrakopoulou 5, Koukaki, +30 210 9241534, dirtymanh.gr, metro: Acropolis/Syngrou-Fix)
脏玛尼
这
个在Koukaki地区高耸林立的公寓楼和商店之间突然冒出来的深蓝绿色金属盒子实在让人着 迷。如果还找不到,您一定会被门前那辆黄色的老式Mini Cooper所吸引。这家设计高雅的料理 店提供非常正宗的希腊街头美食,例如酥乌拉饼,以来自玛尼的皮塔饼搭配烤猪肉串,kefalotyri奶酪 点缀afrina Tainarou盐,以及各种馅料的迷你皮塔饼,包括希腊沙拉和/或穆萨卡等,都非常美味可口。 (Dimitrakopoulou 5,Koukaki,+ 30 210 9241534,dirtymanh.gr,地铁:Aropolis/ Syngrou-Fix)
© KONSTANTINOS SOFIKITIS
FEYROUZ MRS. ELENI-FEYROUZ, BORN IN ANTIOCH, prepares very tasty lachmachun and peinirli at its homonymous sister shop located nearby, however here, sweets reign galore with the compass set on the Middle East. Featured in the window display of this pretty, bright pastry shop, are syrup sweets like the golden crunchy kiounefe, the miniscule seker pare, baklava (also in a vegan version) and many small treats which you can take with you in sachets on your winter walks around the city. Try a traditional Greek coffee made in a briki pot, or one of the sherbets on offer such as the verbena levante with lavender, mountain tea, chamomile, citrus and turmeric and relish the warmth and comfort of every sip. (Karori & Agathonos, +30 213 0318060, metro: Monastiraki)
出生于安提阿的EleniFeyrouz太太正在附近同 名姐妹店中准备美味可口 的腊肠和馅饼,除此之外, 这里还提供来自中东的各 式糖果点心。在美丽而明亮 的糕点橱窗中,陈列着各式 各样的糖浆点心,如金黄松 脆的kiounefe、薄芝麻片、 果仁蜜饼(也有素食版本) 等许多小点心,您可以在冬 天任意挑选一些放在随身 携带的小袋中在城市漫步。 一定要试试以Briki壶制作 的传统希腊咖啡,还有各种 口味的冰冻果子露,如熏衣 草和马鞭草,以及各种热茶 为您带来温暖与舒适,包括 山茶、甘菊、柑橘和姜黄等。 (Karori&Agathonos,+ 30 213 0318060,地 铁:Monastiraki) ELEGA NT TR AV EL /
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he sibling of the homonymous meze taverna-grocery located on Socratous Street, which has won the hearts of both locals and visitors to Athens with its distinct atmosphere and flavours, also has an extra ingredient. Apart from the delectable appetizers, there is also a wood-fired oven with prosfournia: that is what they called the bread buns baked in outdoor ovens during the Byzantine era, which you can embellish by choosing from the large selection of cheeses and cold meats featuring in the window displays. Don’t miss the opportunity to try the homemade sweets: baklava (layers of phyllo pastry with syrup or honey) sprinkled with grated pistachio with a fragrant butter aroma, pasteli (sesame and honey), rizogalo (rice pudding) and more. (Ermou 119, Athens, +30 210 3219119, metro: Monastiraki/Thissio)
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ERGASTIRI
于苏格拉底街的同名小 酒馆以其独特的氛围和 风味赢得了当地人和雅典游客 的喜爱,这里还有更多值得发现。除了美味的开胃菜外,还有一个普 罗旺斯柴火烤炉:制作拜占庭时期在户外烤箱中烤制的美味面包,您 还可以从展示台选择各种奶酪和冷肉切盘进行搭配。一定不要错过尝 试自制甜点的机会:果仁蜜饼(果仁酥 饼加糖浆或蜂蜜)撒上磨碎的开心果 粒,散发着浓郁的黄油香气,蜂蜜果 仁芝麻饼以及大米布丁等。 (Ermou 119,雅典,+ 30 210 3219119,地 铁:Monastiraki / Thissio)
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sweet newcomer at the buzz y Iroon Square in Psiri, the confectioner y Zoumbour lou has one foot in the East and the other in the West. Behind the full window displays, a carpet that goes up to the ceiling catches your eye as you sit at the hall tables, and provides an oriental backdrop for the many syrupy sweets -we recommend the baklava-, yet there’s is more than meets the eye. Here, the traditions of the East reside along with western-style creations, such as the profiteroles with crunchy choux swimming in a thick chocolate sauce, or the bavaroise praline with lemon sauce and mango. And finally, if you get an appetite for something savoury, then order a gözleme, a flatbread toasted atop the sac and filled with minced meat, seasoned with sweet spices. (Aischylou 4, Iroon Square, Psiri, +30 2103314854, metro: Monastiraki)
Zoubourlou
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开张的Zoumbourlou甜蜜糖果店坐落于普西里繁 华的Iroon广场,完美融合了东方和西方。当您在大 厅坐下时,全开放式展示柜后面高耸至天花板的挂毯一定 会吸引您的眼球,为许多糖浆甜点(我们推荐果仁蜜饼)提 供了独特而神秘的东方背景,不仅仅只是让您大饱眼福。 在 这里,东方传统与西方创意并存,如松脆的奶油泡芙包裹着 厚厚的巧克力酱,以及蘸着柠檬酱和芒果酱的巴瓦罗伊果 仁糖。当然,如果您有胃口来点主食,可是尝试gözleme, 这里一种烘烤的圆形面包, 里面装满肉末, 并以甜香料调味。 (Aischylou 4,Iroon Square,Psiri,+30 2103314854, 地铁:Monastiraki)
FLIPPING THROUGH THE
Athens Foodie Guide
TEQUILA OR MEZCAL? In this bar, which recently opened on Paparrigopoulou Street, the focus is equally balanced between these two iconic spirits from Mexico, making it hard for you to make a choice. With an up-to-date cellar, tasty well-balanced cocktails and a cheerful mood both inside the bar as well as out on the sidewalk, the Barro Negro, which means “black clay”, manages to bring together a joyous and buzzy crowd. A crowd that has already shown its appreciation for the really good Margaritas and Palomas, the spicy Bloody Maria and a different style Negroni, cut and tailored for the agave spirits enthusiasts that is simply exquisite. (Ioannou Paparigopoulou 15, +30 210 0107618. Metro: Panepistimio)
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《雅典美食家指南》
“This is not a proper city guide including all the musts and the do’s. I want you to see the real face of Athens, to eat, drink and walk like a local”, says the popular Greek chef Vasilis Kallidis, author of this book written in English. He strolls around central Athenian neighbourhoods and jots down all the delicacies, collects snapshots, blends enticing new hangouts with classic values and cult secrets. The Athens Foodie Guide moves freely in Athens with an off the beaten track bohemian mood, just like any other big city, treating it as a colourful, multi-faceted playground. A generous potpourri awaits you in this book: rooftop terraces overlooking the Acropolis, chic hotels, restaurants, traditional cookeries, tsipouradika, bars, museums and galleries, Greek designers, outdoor markets, shops with spices and nuts, pastry shops, ice cream parlours, street food and whole lot more. The guide can be found in the city’s main bookstores (Public, Ianos, Potiteia etc.)
“这本城市指南并不包括您在 雅典旅行需要做的一切,我只 是向您展示雅典最真实的一 面,引导您像当地人一样吃饭、 喝酒和散步。 ”备受欢迎的希腊 主厨瓦西里斯·卡利迪斯如此 说到,他也是这本英文书的作 者。他在雅典市中心居民区中 漫步,记下所有的美味佳肴,收 集快照,将最具有价值的传统 经典和小众新式聚会点融合在 一起。 《雅典美食家指南》充满 了波西米亚风情,展现雅典众 多场景,远离大城市的喧嚣,将 雅典城视为一座色彩缤纷又趣 味盎然的游乐场。本书中有许 多小秘密在等待着您的发掘: 俯瞰雅典卫城的屋顶露台,别 致的酒店,餐厅,传统料理店, 小酒馆,酒吧,博物馆和美术 馆,希腊设计师,户外市场,香 料坚果铺,糕点店,冰淇淋店, 街头食品等等。该指南在雅典 城主要书店(Public, Ianos, Potiteia等)有售。
龙舌兰酒还是梅斯卡尔酒? 在最近Paparrigopoulou街 开业的这家酒吧中,墨西哥这 两大标志性烈酒受到同样的 关注,使您难以抉择。时常更新的酒窖,均衡可口的鸡尾酒以及 轻松愉悦的氛围,Barro Negro(意为“黑泥土” )酒吧总是充满 了热闹而欢快的人群,甚至延伸至人行道上。这里最受欢迎的是 正宗玛格丽塔和帕洛玛斯,辛辣的血腥玛丽亚以及风格独特的 内格罗尼,这些都专门为龙舌兰酒爱好者量身定制。 (Ioannou Paparigopoulou 15,+30 2100107618,地铁:Panepistimio)
BARRO NEGRO
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Academia of Athens 这
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his new five-star boutique hotel at the junction of Akadimias and Omirou, a member of 家位于阿卡迪米亚斯和奥米鲁交界处 the international network Autograph Collection of the Marriott group, is an impressive 的新五星级精品酒店是首都雅典市中 arrival to the city centre which is inspired by ancient Athenian wisdom and intellect. The com心最令人印象深刻的酒店之一,作为万豪酒 munal areas are decorated in deep green and warm gray, with gold and black overtones, while 店集团傲途格精选酒店成员,其灵感来自于 objects by famous designers and sayings by great Greek philosophers capture the eye. With 古雅典人的智慧与才干。公共区域以深绿色 60 rooms and suites promising comfortable and luxurious accom和暖灰色为主色调,搭配金色和黑色细节,来 modation and a wellness centre offering relaxing spa treatments, the 自著名设计师的摆件和古希腊哲学家名言不得不吸引大家的注意。 雅典 Academia of Athens also has two distinct options for food and drink: 学院酒店共拥有60间客房和套房,为您提供舒适而豪华的住宿体验,并 The Symposium Restaurant which follows the bistronomy trend and 设有休闲水疗护理健康中心,同时提供两种不同的餐饮选择:精致料理 the Plato Bar & Lounge that combines a cosmopolitan selection of 小馆Symposium餐厅以及结合了现代风格的柏拉图酒吧,后者提供各 Gin labels and cocktails inspired by ancient Greek history, all based 种杜松子酒以及以古希腊历史为灵感创作的各种鸡尾酒,并以希腊独特 on Greek herbs and spices. (38 Akadimias Str. & Omirou Str., Kolonaki, 草药和香料为点缀。 (38 Akadimias Str.&Omirou Str.,Kolonaki,+30 +30 210 3670000, academiaofathens.com, metro: Panepistimio) 210 3670000,academiaofathens.com,地铁:Panepistimio)
KENTRIKON THIS HISTORIC RESTAURANT which has been a long running institution ever since it opened in 1960 and became one of the most distinctive hangouts for the city’s artists and politicians, is now under new management and returns fully refurbished. You can enjoy a coffee inside, where the interior now exudes an urban luxury with more modern overtones, or under the green awning on the narrow pedestrian street next to the Bolani Gallery entrance, as well us try the new cuisine which combines Greek and international flavours, from risotto to spinach pies and yuvarlakia (meatballs with rice cooked in moist heat). (Kolokotroni 3, Syntagma, tel: +30 210 3232482, metro: Syntagma) 这家历史悠久的餐厅自1960年便 开始营业,如今已成为雅典市艺术 家和政客们最喜欢的聚会场所之 一,现在由新集团接管,全面翻新 后盛大归来。您可以在餐厅内品尝 一杯咖啡,这里的内饰散发着浓郁 的都市气息,并具有现代化色彩, 或者坐在Bolani美术馆入口旁狭 窄的步行街绿色遮阳棚下,品尝结 合了希腊风味的各色创意国际美 食,选择种类繁多,包括烩饭、菠 菜派和yuvarlakia(肉丸炖米饭) 等。 (Kolokotroni 3,tel:+30 210 3232482,地铁:Syntagma)
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A UNIQUE brunch experience THE PERFECT WAY TO START YOUR WEEKEND IN STYLE. THE WINTER GARDEN’S LINE-UP INCLUDES A HUGE SELECTION OF ECLECTIC TREATS, FRESH AND ARTFUL, DELICATE IN EVERY RESPECT.
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t is second to none in the whole city. Grande Bretagne’s atmospheric lounge with its imposing columns, stained glass, gold details and plenty of natural light, has been bringing a slice of the high life to the city’s centre and serves a brunch that is truly epic. Every Saturday and Sunday, from 11am to 2pm, accompanied by the sounds of soft music, the marble tables of the Winter Garden flaunt wonderful baskets filled with homemade butter and gianduja, croissants, mastic scented tsoureki (sweet bread) and brioches with Corinthian raisins and lime cream, along with homemade seasonal fruit marmalade and sweet lemon cream. It is the perfect accompaniment to coffee, tea and the freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. But the pleasure does not end there. You will then have to choose between an amazing mini vegetable ravioli with crab, avocado and citrus fruit and an eminently likeable jamon Serrano served with a warm salad with forest mushrooms, truffles and dried sour cherries. Soon after, you are faced with yet another dilemma, where on the one hand you have the soft boiled organic farm-fresh eggs with a marinated and smoked Le Jajik salmon, and on the other, eggs Benedict with lobster and hollandaise sauce – these delicacies curated by executive chef Asterios Koustoudis are both exquisite. Either way, the sweet finale features elaborate desserts from the pastry shop of this historic hotel, served on a beautiful tiered tray. For €48 per person, including all the above plus a glass of champagne, the value for money of the “Winter Garden’s Weekends” is simply unmatched. (Vassileos Georgiou 1, Syntagma, +30 210 3330000, grandebretagne.gr, metro: Syntagma)
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不列颠酒店在整座雅典城中绝对首屈一指, 典雅大气的酒店大厅拥有气势恢宏的堂柱, 绚烂 多彩的琉璃, 细致精巧的金色细节以及充足的自然光线, 这里已经成为雅典市中心最高雅生 活之所在, 提供真正史诗般的早午餐。 每周六和周日, 从上午11点至下午2点, 伴随着轻柔迷人的音 乐, 冬季花园大理石桌上摆放着精美的食篮, 里面盛满自制黄油、 牛角面包、 乳香甜面包、 科林斯葡 萄干青柠奶油蛋卷以及自制新鲜果酱和柠檬奶油, 与各种咖啡、 茶、 现榨果汁和蔬菜汁完美搭配。 不 仅仅如此, 之后您需要在两大主盘中做出选择: 迷你蔬菜意大利方饺搭配螃肉、 牛油果和柑橘水果, 以及非常受欢迎的塞拉诺火腿肉, 搭配以森林蘑菇、 松露和酸樱桃干制成的鲜美沙拉。 在这之后, 您 将面临另一个难题: 有机农场新鲜煮鸡蛋搭配腌熏大马哈三文鱼, 以及本尼迪克特鸡蛋搭配龙虾和 荷兰酱, 这些优雅而精致的美食都由酒店行政总厨Asterios Koustoudis精心策 划。 无论您选择哪一种, 都将拥有最甜蜜的结局——由历史悠久的酒店糕点房提供 精美手工甜点, 分布在一个漂亮的分层托盘上。 早午餐价格为每人48欧元 (包括上 述所有食物和一杯香槟) , 冬季花园的周末的确物有所值。 (Vassileos Georgiou 1, 想要过一个时尚周末?这将是您的完美选择!冬季花园 提供种类繁多的精致美食,新鲜可口又趣味横生。 Syntagma, +30 210 3330000, grandebretagne.gr, 地铁: Syntagma)
独一无二的早午餐体验
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Cherchez La Femme
The NU-NOSTALGICS CHARMING NEW SCENARIOS WITH THAT PARTICULAR OLD-SCHOOL ALLURE THAT KEEPS US LOOKING BACK, NOW COMBINED WITH FRESH IDEAS.
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ities around the world are changing rapidly, adapting to new conditions, new demands, a new human geography and the Greek capital is no exception. It has acquired plenty of new habits over time, but it has also lost many of its old hangouts. Some unfledged places are attempting to regain that thread by looking back into the past through various perspectives and creating new scenarios based on the memories of a bygone city. By returning to the past, both in an aesthetic and culinary sense, these spots re-examine it, recreate it and bring it to the present. Counting on all things rejuvenating, this neo-nostalgia feeds the need for warmth, humanity and a lost innocence. So here’s a taste of the old Athens seen through the eyes of young people in three venues that build their own comfort zone with old and new materials.
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新式怀旧
令人着迷的新式场景搭 配别具一格的老派怀旧魅 力,展现出全新的面貌。
界各地的城市正发生着剧烈的变化,以适应新的 状况、需求以及人文地理环境,希腊首都也不例 外。多年来这里吸收了众多新移民,同时也逐渐失去了 许多古老的聚集地。 一些羽翼未满的社区正努力以各种 角度回顾过去并根据城市的记忆设置出全新的情景,使 其重新获得活力。通过回到过去,从美学和烹饪角度重 新审视这些地方,将其重新塑造并带回到当下。通过对 过去事物的复兴,这种新式怀旧主义满足了人们对于温 暖、人性和纯真的需求。现在,我们在三个利用新旧材料 建造的舒适社区场所中,通过年轻一代的眼睛体会老雅 典的迷人味道。
Cherchez La Femme
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ust a few years ago, on a corner of Mitropoleos Street on the edge of the shopping 在几年前,Cherchez la femme在普 district with Plaka, Cherchez la femme set up its very own vintage scene by tapping 拉卡购物区Mitropoleos街角建立了极 into the tradition of the old coffee house. Congenial, with an urban character, walls 具复古情怀的餐厅,继承了老式希腊咖啡馆的 decorated with figures from the Greek shadow theatre, old black-and-white photo传统。相得益彰的氛围,具有城市特色的装饰 graphs and a charming cosy old-timey feel, this is the best spot to enjoy a cup of Greek 风格,墙壁上的希腊影剧院人物形象,大幅黑 coffee – roasted the traditional way in hovoli (hot sand) and served with a loukoumi 白老照片,所有一切都将人带回到那段迷人而 (Turkish delight), which is a typical Greek household treat. Of course, you can also 舒适的陈旧时光中。品尝一杯希腊咖啡——以 grab a bite to eat. Drawing inspiration from the dishware used by Greek mothers, the 传统方式在hovoli(热沙)中慢慢烘焙而成,搭 dishes that spread across the marble 配loukoumi(土耳其软糖),这便是典型的希 tables are sometimes classic, other 腊家庭招待方式。当然,您也可以在这里吃点 times with a slightly modern touch, 东西。从希腊母亲和祖母辈使用的老式餐具中 are small in size so they can be shared 汲取灵感,各式餐盘散布在大理石桌面上,时 in the middle, and you can accompa而经典,时而略带现代感,餐具尺寸都很小,可 ny them with local wines and spirits. 以放在餐桌中央共享,当然您可以搭配当地美 Try the spinach twist pie, the sausage 味葡萄酒和烈酒。一定要试试菠菜麻花馅饼, meatballs and the... sinful pan-fried 香肠肉丸以及......让人颇有罪恶感的炸薯条。 chips. If you don’t have breakfast or 如果您还没有吃早餐或早午餐,一定要抓住机 brunch, then grab the opportunity 会,试试这里的希腊式炒蛋kayiana,搭配西红 and try the kayiana, the Greek-style 柿和菲达羊乳酪。 scrambled eggs with tomatoes and 继续前往附近热闹的圣和平广场,Senios feta cheese. 就 坐 落 于 一 个 温 馨 可 爱 的 空 间 中 ,其 灵 感 Heading towards the nearby buzzy 来源为曾在雅典附近非常流行的传统希腊 square of Agia Irini, we find Senios bakalotaverna(带小卖部的老式小酒馆)。老 which is housed in a warm space in式冰箱,摆放着豆子、腌菜、香料、大 spired by the traditional Greek baka蒜花环和小辣椒的置物架,一切都 lotaverna (a taverna with in-store 营造出怀旧的氛围,老式托盘落在 products on sale), which were once 桌上,上面盛满了各种冷盘小菜供 found in Athenian neighbourhoods. 您选择,他们通常说: “这是一场视觉 Vintage refrigerators, shelves packed 盛宴” ,确实如此。 您可以先从清爽的 Senios with pulses, pickles, spices, garlic tzatziki(用黄瓜和大蒜制成的酸奶 garlands and small peppers all setting 酱),tyrokafteri(辣芝士奶酪酱), the atmosphere, as the old-fashioned serving dolmadakia(葡萄叶酿香草米饭) tray lands on your table loaded with cold meze 或任何使您胃口大开的食物开始,之 snacks for you to choose – they say “it is a feast 后从肉和海鲜中选择主食。 这里猪肉 for your eyes” and that is surely the case here. 烤串最受欢迎,并以面包代替普通的 You can start with a refreshing tzatziki (a yo皮塔饼,上面铺满了菲达羊乳酪、炸 gurt spread made with cucumber and garlic), 薯条、洋葱和烤番茄。各种希腊风味 tyrokafteri (spicy feta cheese spread), dolmada的鸡尾酒也非常值得尝试。 kia (vine leaves stuffed with rice and herbs), or 另 一 个 非 常 好 的 选 择 是 Το whatever tickles your appetite and then choose Locali,意为“本地”或“我们中的 from the meat and seafood options on offer. The 一个”。去年夏天,它接管了普西里 chopped pork chops resembling a souvlaki are (Psiri)社区一个备受人们喜爱的 a popular favourite, where, instead of the usual 古老露天电影院,不久便为自己赢 pita bread, they come on a hearty flatbread filled 得了好名声——开业第一周庭院中 To Locali with feta, fried chips, onions and roasted toma就挤满了前来光顾的人群。即使现 toes. Some of the Greek style cocktails are also 在到了冬天,您也可以围坐在炉子旁 worth investigating. 享受室外美丽的绿色,或欣赏酷炫的 NEO-NOSTALGIA FEEDS Another good option is To Locali meaning 希腊风格内饰,体现新潮与古老风格 THE NEED FOR WARMTH, “local” or “one of us”. It popped up last summer 的完美碰撞。 在这家独特的希腊酒吧 CONGENIALITY AND in the Psiri vicinity taking over from an old and 中,食客们尽享美味,在老旧的纺织 much loved open air cinema, and soon managed 艺术品和民间传说tsolia雕像旁谈 A LOST INNOCENCE. to make a name for itself – as early as the first 笑风生。酒吧的正上方是一位名叫“ 新式怀旧风格餐厅满足了人们对于温 week its yard was crammed with people. Even 兔子知道”的漫画家绘制的该街区特 暖、人性和纯真的追求。 now in wintertime, you can enjoy the greenery 色人物,古老的人物和民歌音乐家共 outside whilst sitting by the stove, or indoors 同目睹着调酒师以七浦罗酒调制经 where the decoration is a cool rendition of Greekness, a game of coexistence between old 典鸡尾酒。至于从厨房中冒出来的美味,大多是 and new. A cheerful, vibrant crowd eats and drinks in this sui generis Greek pub, chat种类多样色彩缤纷的小吃美食:肉丸和薯条,炸 ting away next to old woven textiles and folklore tsolia figurines. Just above the bar, the 小鱼,美味馅饼,海鲜意面…… cartoonist known as “The Rabbit Knows” has drawn the neighbourhood’s characteristic figures, proving that an ancient character and a rebetis can jointly oversee a bartender preparing an Old Fashioned cocktail with tsipouro. As for the dishes that emerge from ADDRESSES | 地址 Cherchez la femme, Mitropoleos 46, +30 210 3222020 the kitchen, they all incite a meze-type meal: meatballs and chips, small fried fish, open Senios, Kalamiotou 15, +30 210 3318778 pies, orzo seafood... To Locali, Sarri 44, +30 210 3250673s ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE /
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Drinks & TUNES
HIP HANGOUTS, COSY HIDEAWAYS, PARTY SPOTS AND SOME SERIOUS DRINKING DONE IN STYLE: EVERY BAR ON THIS LIST IS FIT FOR A GOOD TIME.
饮品与曲调
时髦的聚会场所,舒适的藏身之所,派对理想之地或正式聚会选择: 以下酒吧清单将满足您以上所有选择,助您享有一段美好时光。
引人入胜的中心 吧台,经典和现代 气息相结合的大 厅,舒适的沙发与 站立架,还有众多 舒适角落供您品尝各种饮品、美食和休闲小吃, 让您绝对爱上这里。专业调酒师会为您准备经 典风味鸡尾酒和其他实验性特色饮品,以及各 种新品牌烈酒清单,这些可以与精美的酒吧食 品和当代小酒馆风格的菜肴相结合。酒吧同时 提供早午餐。 (Kolokotroni 3,+ 30 2130052153 ,地铁:Syntagma)
42 BARSTRONOMY ATHENS AN ATTRACTIVE CENTERPIECE BAR in the lounge area combines the aura of the classic with modern touches, comfortable sofas, stands and plenty of spots to enjoy your drink, food or a chitchat. The suited bartenders prepare classic cocktails with a twist and other experimental signature drinks, and suggest some new labels which have found their way into the list of spirits. These can be combined with fine bar food and contemporary bistro-style dishes. Brunch is also served. (Kolokotroni 3, +30 2130052153, metro: Syntagma / Panepistimio)
OINOSCENT 醇香酒吧 THIS WINE BAR on Voulis Street, situated between Syntagma and Plaka, is packed all year round and rightly so: there’s much to love here. The cleverly set wine list, which encourages sampling with its broad variety, is regularly updated and delivers the goods from its extensive selection of both Greek and international vineyards hidden in the cellar. The eager and devoted staff does a meticulous job, with frequent tastings and tributes. There is also a small minimal global-style restaurant just next door, with a handful of suggestions to accompany your wine of choice – recent arrivals include sautéed poultry liver with balsamic vinegar and a ‘deconstructed’ cabbage roll with lamb mince and sumac. (Voulis 45-47, +30 2103229374, oinoscent.com, metro: Syntagma)
位于宪法广场和普拉卡之间沃利斯大街上的这家酒吧全年无休营业并总是 门庭若市,这里的一切都让人爱不释手。精巧的酒单涵盖种类繁多的葡萄酒 品种,以鼓励人们品尝各种各样的酒,并会定期更新,酒窖中珍藏着来自希腊 当地和国际葡萄园中的精致葡萄酒。热情而敬业的工作人员精心劳作,经常 举行各种品酒会。隔壁还有一家小型极简风格餐厅,为您的葡萄酒搭配精美 菜肴,包括最近新上市的香醋炒家禽肝以及羊肉末白菜卷。 (Voulis 45-47,+ 30 2103229374,oinoscent.com,地铁:Syntagma)
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AS SOON AS YOU ENTER, you are instantaneously transported into a parallel exotic universe which is casual and sunny. Surfboards and images of Hawaiian beaches, plants, floral and animal print chairs all set a tropical mood at the Tiki Athens. Bartenders make bright cocktails at the reed bar with fresh Greek seasonal and tropical fruit, while the kitchen prepares finger food, burgers and pizzas and the deck spins swing, calypso, rock’n’roll and indie punk tunes – live performances are also regularly hosted here. (Falirou 15, Koukaki, +30 2109236908, tikiathens.com,
TIKI ATHENS 蒂基雅典
metro: Acropolis) 一进入酒吧,您立即被带到休闲而阳光明媚的异国平行宇宙中。冲浪板 和夏威夷海滩,绿色植物,以及各种花卉和动物图案的椅子为蒂基雅典 酒吧营造出浓烈的热带氛围。调酒师在芦苇吧台以新鲜希腊时令和热 带水果调制明亮的鸡尾酒,而厨房则准备着各种小吃、汉堡和比萨饼, 甲板轻旋摇摆,各种摇滚和独立朋克曲调上演,这里经常定期举行各种 现场表演。 (Falirou 15,Koukaki,+ 30 2109236908,tikiathens.com, 地铁:雅典卫城)
CV DISTILLER CV蒸馏器
Odori Vermuteria di Atene
WITH A DECORATION resembling a botanical garden, from green tiles to cage-lights hanging over the bar, it has managed to make Athenians love vermouth and carries on accordingly. The Negroni is a standard here, but don’t miss trying the intriguing Aegean Wet, a Dry Martini variation stirred down with tsipouro, aromas of dill and Tinos capers served in a small bottle accompanied by olives and pickled samphire, making it all is as Greek as it gets. And if you get peckish, then a pizza from the menu should hit the spot – we recommend the Tartuffo pizza. (Skouleniou 2, +30 2103314674, metro: Panepistimio)
FANCY EXPLORING drams from Scotland, rare whiskies from Japan, or Australia? Whiskeys from every corner of the world -collectibles, aged whiskeys and rare labelshave all been diligently stocked in their eclectic inventory and seem to be infinite in number. And even if you’d rather have some other drink, you won’t be disappointed. Fine spirits aficionados gather at the semicircular bar to enjoy the highly explorable spirits list, as well as the inspired cocktails suggested by experienced bartenders. The range of options at the CV Distiller is truly remarkable. (Chatzigianni Mexi 7, Hilton area, +30 2107231767, metro: Evangelismos)
想要探索苏格兰风情,品尝来自 日本和澳大利亚的稀有威士忌? 来自世界各地的威士忌(包括收 藏品、陈年威士忌和稀有标签)都 被整整齐齐地陈列在这家不拘一 格的酒吧酒窖中,且数量似乎数不 胜数。当然,如果您想喝其他饮料, 也不会感到失望。半圆形的吧台聚 集了众多高级烈酒爱好者,您可以 随意探索烈酒清单,当然也会有经 验丰富的调酒师推荐各式精美鸡 尾酒。CV 蒸馏器酒吧为您提供多 种选择! (Chatzigianni Mexi 7, Hilton area,+30 2107231767,地 铁:Evangelismos)
从绿色瓷砖到吧台之上悬挂的笼子灯, 整座酒吧如同一个可爱的植物园,它成 功让雅典人爱上了苦艾酒。内格罗尼是 这里的标准鸡尾酒,但也不要错过迷人 的 潮 湿 爱 琴 海,由 干马提尼与希腊独 特 七 浦 罗 酒 制 成, 搭配莳萝和蒂诺斯 刺 山 柑 的 芬 芳,以 小 瓶 供 应,一 定 要 像希腊人那样搭配 橄榄和腌制海蓬 子。如 果 您 想 来 些 小 吃,可 以 选 择 各 种 披 萨 饼,我 们 最 推荐Tartuffo披萨。 (Skouleniou 2,+ 30 2103314674,地 铁:Panepistimio)
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The Clumsies 笨蛋鸡尾酒吧
FLAVOURS CHANGE WITH EVERY SIP. This inventive cocktail
bar on Praxitelous Street, which this year managed to climb up to the sixth place of the World’s 50 Best Bars 2019, has an excellent list and lots of beautiful corners, so it’s no wonder it’s jam-packed every Saturday night. It also has a secret: A cosy area called The Room with a library and billiard table, like a stylish man cave, which you will only get to see by making a reservation. (Praxitelous 30, +30 2103232682, theclumsies.gr, metro: Panepistimio)
每一口品酌都与众不同。这座富有创意的鸡尾酒吧位于Praxitelous街,今年成功 攀升“2019年全球50家最佳酒吧”第六名,拥有出色酒单和许多漂亮的角落,难怪每 周六晚上这里总是爆满。酒吧还有一个秘密:一个叫做The Room的舒适区域,里 面设置有图书馆和台球桌,如同一个时尚的洞穴,需提前预约。 (Praxitelous 30, +30 2103232682,theclumsies.gr,地铁:Panepistimio)
JUAN RODRIGUEZ COMPAÑIA DE BEBIDA LOOKING FOR THE FUN FACTOR? An imaginary Latin American style colony which popped up in downtown Athens gives you the answer, with its cheerful maximalist setting with chandeliers, artificial palm trees, feathers, monkeys, as well as a... fountain. Atmospheric, with groovy music by a different DJ every day, the Juan Rodriguez bar has become a popular favourite in the vicinity of Psiri. It looks its best at night, but you can also go during the day for a coffee, snacks, salads, cold dishes, burgers and pizzas. (Pallados 3, Psiri, +30 2103224496, metro: Monastiraki)
寻找有趣元素?在雅典市中心冒出了一个假想的拉丁美洲风 格殖民地,吊灯、人造棕榈树、羽毛、猴子以及喷泉共同营造出 欢快的极简主义氛围。每天由不同DJ播放时髦音乐,充满风情 的Juan Rodriguez酒吧已成为Psiri附近的热门聚集地。这里 晚上最棒,当然白天您也可以去喝咖啡,品尝各种沙拉、冷盘、 汉堡和比萨等小吃。 (Pallados 3,Psiri,+ 30 2103224496,地 铁:Monastiraki)
WITH METICULOUSLY CRAFTED TIMEWORN WALLS, old chandeliers, vintage furniture, wooden bedheads turned upside-down serving as low lighting fixtures, this artistic bar, which is also a 浮士德 music venue, has a truly charming and dramatic ambience. It has a different daily routine hosting alternating DJs, live music and theatrical performances. And every Saturday night, Faust is turned into a mini club, transforming the nightlife scene in this part of downtown Athens: prominent European and domestic names of the house music scene take over the decks and the fun goes on even when the surrounding bars have called it a night – that is, until 7 in the morning. (Kalamiotou 11 & Athinaidos 12, +30 2103234095, faust.gr, metro: Monastiraki)
FAUST
这间艺术性酒吧拥有别出心裁的做旧墙壁、古老的吊灯以及老式家具,以上下颠倒 的木制床头作为照明设备,这里同时也是一个音乐场所,拥有真正迷人而引人入胜的 氛围。每天上演着不同节目,包括不同DJ、现场音乐和戏剧表演等。每周六晚上浮士德 酒吧摇身一变,成为一个迷你俱乐部,改变着雅典市中心的夜生活场景:播放来自欧洲 和希腊本国的众多著名音乐家作品,甚至当附近酒吧已经关门营业时这里依然人声鼎 沸——营业至早上7点。 (Kalamiotou 11 & Athinaidos 12,+ 30 2103234095,faust. gr,地铁:Monastiraki) 110 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
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BREAD and phyllo stories THESE BAKERIES WHICH EXCEL IN GREEK BREAD, PIES AND PASTRIES IN EQUAL MEASURE, WILL SATISFY ANY CRAVING. ΙT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO GO WRONG WITH WHATEVER YOU PICK FROM THE COUNTER.
G
reeks love bread. That bread loaf with the crisp crust and soft inner crumb which is kneaded with care and comes out of the oven fluffy and golden, permeating the air with aromas. The warm bread they take wrapped in paper and before they’ve turned the corner, they’ve already nibbled off the end. The bread they dip into the salad with tomato seeds and onion floating in oil in order to make the perfect bite. Nowadays, you can get mass-produced, ready-made bread. But if you want to feel like a local, then go to one of the bakeries that keep the tradition alive, but imbue it with new ideas, according to current tastes and modern eating habits. As you walk around downtown Athens, instead of having breakfast or brunch, grab a pie made with handmade phyllo dough -which has a long tradition in this country-, try a freshly baked koulouri (a bread ring with sesame seeds) and check out the wealth of sweet and savoury delicacies lingering on the shelves and in the crates. One pretty interesting bakery shop is Pnyka run by the Kotsari family, with three bakeries in Athens and even one in Vienna (!), that was named after an important city landmark: Pnyka was the assembly area of the ancient Athenians. If you pass by their bakery on Petraki Street, you will see a painting above the window display and the loaded shelves depicting orators as they deliver their speech. But what stands out here is the dough found in a variety of breads (carob bread, chia seed bread, etc.), rusks, breadsticks and koulouri, made with selected grain grown the traditional way and ground at their own stone mill in Pagrati. You may come across a slight congestion at the entrance – the shop is small – but it is worth the wait in order to buy delicious bread, as well as cheese and spinach kourou pastry pies, chicken pies, various baking pies, or a bougatsa (custard pie with phyllo).
photos: stathis mamalakis – 拍摄:斯塔西斯•马玛拉基斯–
面包故事
这些面包店提供优质美味的希腊面包、 馅饼和各色糕点,可满足您的所有需求, 从柜台任意挑选都不会出错。
希
腊人喜欢面包,面包皮酥脆又结实,内瓤 柔软而细腻,经过精心揉捏,从烤箱中取 出时成诱人的金黄色,蓬松柔软香气十足,连空 气中都芬芳四溢。用纸袋包裹着温暖的面包,在 到达街角之前就已经享用完毕了。还可以将面 包浸入希腊沙拉中,与西红柿粒、洋葱碎末和 橄榄油完美融合。 如今您可以轻易找到批量生产的现成面包。 但如果您想真正做一回当地人,一定要去这家 传统希腊面包房,他们很有创意地将希腊传统 与现代口味和饮食习惯相结合。当您在雅典市 中心漫步时,不要选择普通早餐或早午餐,一 定要尝试以手工制作的叶状面团制成的美味馅 饼,这种食物在希腊有着悠久的传统,千万别错 过新鲜出炉的koulouri(芝麻面包圈),还有货 架和板条箱上的许多甜咸风味面食。 由柯查理家族经营的Pnyka是一家非常有 趣的面包烘焙公司,在雅典有三家面包店,在 维也纳也有一家!面包店以重要的城市地标命 名:Pnyka是古代雅典人的集会之地。当经过他 们在Petraki街的面包店时,您将在橱窗和丰 盛的柜台上方看到一幅画,描绘演说家们正激 情澎湃地演讲。这里最有名的是各种面包(角豆 面包、奇亚籽面包等)、面包干、面包条以及面包 圈,大都以精选谷物为原料,以传统方式种植并 在自己独立的Pagrati石磨厂中进行处理。店口 处可能会有一点拥挤,毕竟面包店不大,但非常 值得您的等待,您可以在此选购美味面包,奶酪 馅饼、菠菜馅饼、鸡肉馅饼等各种馅饼以及希腊 传统甜奶酥馅饼bougatsa。
Pnyka is named after an important Athenian landmark.
Pnyka以著名希腊地标命名。 ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE /
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Takis’ breads and pies are a must-try.
Taki面包房各种面包和馅饼不容错过。
另
A
nother must-stop is the renowned bakery Artopoiotis O Takis under the Acropolis, where dozens of bread types are kneaded everyday and long queues form daily at the counter. The sons of Takis Papadopoulos, Artemis and Thodoros, a third generation of bakers, continue the family tradition and write their story in flour and yeast. You should definitely try some of the pies (kourou dough cheese pie, or the pan baked cheese pie, spinach pie, leek pie), the cheese and tomato bread rolls with cream cheese, fluffy foccacia with olives or rosemary and cookies with wheat germ, linseed and cranberry. On your way out, pick up some burley rusks. And then... come back in the afternoon and get to know the “sibling” shop, called Drupes & Drips. The two brothers have set up a spritzeria just a breath away, which is a regular hangout for the 30+ crowd of the city. Every Aperol Spritz and Italian wine is accompanied by fine cheeses and cold meats (Mykonos xynotyri cheese, graviera cheese and ripe dried anthotyro cream cheese from Crete, excellent gorgonzola, aged cheese from Lessinia in Italy, aged coppa in Amarone), served on small wooden boards that come with rustic bread from their own oven, with oil from Olympia and thick salt from Rineia.
Τaki’s sibling shop, Drupes & Drips, is a popular, very friendly spritzeria.
Taki兄弟小吃店Drupe&Drips 是一家非常有名的spritzeria。
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外一个不可错过的是雅典卫城下著 名的Artopoiotis O Takis面包店,每 天数十种面包在这里被揉捏,柜台上排起了 长长的队伍。Artemis和Thodoros是Takis Papadopoulos的儿子,作为第三代面包师,他 们继承了家族传统,以面粉和酵母书写传奇。 一定要尝试美味馅饼(芝士馅饼、菠菜馅饼、韭 菜 馅 饼 等),芝 士 番 茄 面 包卷配奶油芝士,蓬松的 意大利薄饼配橄榄或迷迭 香,以及麦芽饼干、亚麻籽 饼干和蔓越莓饼干等,结 账前别忘了挑一些面包 干 。下 午 回 来 的 时 候,一 定要去旁边的兄弟小吃店 Drupes&Drips,俩兄弟 在面包房一旁建立了这家 spritzeria,成为本市30 岁以上人群最热门的聚会 场所之一。每一款Aperol Spritz开胃酒和意大利 葡萄酒都搭配优质奶酪 (米科诺斯岛 xynotyri 奶酪,graviera奶酪和来 自克里特岛的成熟干奶 酪,上等戈贡佐拉奶酪,来 自意大利Lessinia的陈年奶酪,Amarone的陈年coppa 等)和冷肉拼盘,与自家烤制的乡村面包一起盛在木盘上, 搭配奥林匹亚橄榄油和Rineia浓盐。
Mama Psomi, located in Koukaki.
N
ot far away, is Mama Psomi, where Giorgos Gatzios and Rallou Michalopoulou, who are also actors apart from being bakers, make truly delicious bread and daily bake pies with phyllo made with olive oil. Take away a variety of goodies in a small paper bag such as a cheese pie, milk pie, meat and sausage pie with turkey sausage, spinach pie with chervil and Mediterranean hartwort herbs and pumpkin pie with a lovely spearmint aroma. Lastly, one other thing worth trying is the sesame koulouri, also called koulouri from Thessaloniki. These were widely spread when the refugees settled in Macedonia after the Asia Minor catastrophe, and were sold by street vendors who would carry the koulouri in crates on their heads. Now you will see them being sold in wheeled glass showcases in various parts of the city. One of the bestknown koulouri representatives is To Koulouri Tou Psiri, which sells thousands of of these traditional sesame bread rings every day, some twisted, some fluffy, others more crunchy, but also with raisins or sunflower seeds. On a Friday or Saturday night, the all-nighters make a stop at their bakery on Karaiskaki Street in the early morning hours, for a freshly baked bite to eat before going to bed.
坐落于Koukaki的Mama Psomi面包房。
不
远处便是Mama Psomi面包房,Giorgos Gatzios 和Rallou Michalopoulou既是演员,也是这里的 面包师,他们制作真正美味的面包以及橄榄油馅饼。各种 各样的美食可以装在小纸袋中带走,包括奶酪馅饼、牛奶 派、各种肉类和火鸡香肠馅饼、菠菜罗勒馅饼、地中海哈维 特香草馅饼以及清香可口的南瓜派。 最后,还有一样值得一试的美食是芝麻面包圈,也被 叫做塞萨洛尼基面包圈。当小亚细亚大灾难发生后,大量 难民在马其顿定居,这种美食得以广泛传播,经常在街头 被小贩出售,这些小贩头顶装着面包圈的板条箱。今天, 它们在城市各个地区的街头移动玻璃陈列柜中出售。To Koulouri Tou Psiri的甜甜圈最最有代表性,这里每天出 售成千上万的传统芝麻面包圈,有弯曲的,有蓬松的,有松 脆的,还带有葡萄干或葵花籽风味。周五和周六晚上,通宵 达旦的酒吧人群清晨在Karaiskaki街面包店停下来,品尝 新鲜出炉的各种面包,之后再回家补觉。 Koulouri tou Psiri. Psiri甜甜圈。
ADDRESSES | 地址 Artopoiotis O Takis, Misaraliotou 14, Makrigianni, Acropolis, +30 2109230052 Drupes & Drips, Zitrou 20, Koukaki, +30 6970300404 Koulouri Tou Psiri, Karaiskaki 23, Psiri, +30 2103215962 Mama Psomi, Zaharitsa 42, Koukaki, +30 2109227686 Pnyka, • Petraki 24, Athens (Syntagma), +30 2103245162 • Tositsa 26, Exarcheia, +30 2103812817 • Pratinou 13, Pagrati, +30 2107251941
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wine
葡萄
– TA S T I N G –
– 酒鉴赏 –
芬芳四溢一日游
All day trip full of FLAVOURS AND AROMAS
我们从雅典市中心出发,行进半个至一个钟头,参观那些具有 独特历史的非凡酒庄并品尝各种优质葡萄酒。
–撰稿:康斯坦迪诺斯•查查里斯–
WE TRAVEL FOR HALF TO ONE AND A HALF HOURS FROM DOWNTOWN ATHENS ΤΟ VISIT REMARKABLE WINERIES AND ΤΟ ENJOY RENOWNED QUALITY WINES WITH AN INTERESTING HISTORY. –by konstantinos tsatsaris–
A
s we embark on our oenological journey to destinations located about half an hour from the Athenian centre, we won’t just be visiting remarkable wineries. This is also an opportunity to visit historical places, such as the archaeological site of Vravrona in Markopoulo, dating back to 8000 BC, which is crossed by the small river Erasinos, or the areas of Koropi, Paiania and Markopoulo, where important discoveries have been made in recent years, such as the ancient road network, temples, tombs, residential and craftsman workshops, as well as many artifacts indicating wine production and grape cultivation in the area, like urns and vinification equipment going back to 6000 BC. In the wider region of Mesogaia, the name of this part of the Attica basin, the winemaking tradition goes back to antiquity with the white Savatiano variety being the main local variety. OENOTRIA LAND COSTA LAZARIDI A winemaker from Drama came to Attica and set up a 50-acre vineyard overlooking the Marathon lake. The first plantation was in 2000 and the first bottling was the 2005 harvest, under the guidance of renowned French oenologist Michael Rolland. There is a small Wine Museum in the winery’s basement with many exhibits from the 17th century to the present day – an ideal place to gather knowledge and information about wine production, distillation and balsamic vinegar. The varieties produced but also the estate’s most popuat the estate are white (assyslar wines, such as the Chateau rtiko, chardonnay, sauvignon Julia chardonnay and the blanc, malagousia, Semillon) Domaine Costa Lazaridi Rose. and red (merlot, syrah, refosco, (2nd km Kapandriti - Kalamos, cabernet sauvignon and agiorKapandriti Attica, 190 14, gitiko). It is worth trying the +30 22950 52 213, domaineAmethystos white, rose, red, lazaridi.gr) At the Wine Museum.
葡萄酒博物馆。
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我
们 踏 上 酿 酒 之 旅,前 往 距 雅 典 市 中 心 约 半 小 时 的目的地,这不仅是一次普通的酿酒厂之旅,更 重 要 的 是,这 也 是 一 次 参 观 历 史 古 迹 的 机 会 。如 位 于 马可布罗的Vravrona考古遗址可追溯至公元前8000 年,小河Erasinos贯穿其中。还有Koropi,Paiania和 Markopoulo地区,这里近些年也出现了重要的考古发现, 如古代公路网、寺庙、陵墓、住宅和手工艺作坊等,还出土 了许多反映该地区葡萄酒生产和葡萄种植的重要文物,如 可追溯至公元前6000年的酒桶和酿酒设备。在Mesogaia( 阿提卡盆地名称)更广阔的区域,酿酒传统可追溯到上古 时期,白葡萄洒瓦滴诺品种是当地最主要的品种。
Oenotria Land Costa Lazaridi, belongs to a winemaker from northern Greece. Oenotria Land Costa Lazaridi从属于位于希腊北部的一家酿酒厂。
OENOTRIA LAND COSTA LAZARIDI 来自德拉玛的酿酒师来到阿提卡地区,在此建立了一个占地50英亩的葡萄 庄园,俯瞰整个马拉松湖。在著名法国酿酒师迈克尔·罗兰的指导下,2000 年第一次种植葡萄,2005年首次装瓶。酒厂地下室内设有一个小型葡萄酒 博物馆,展示从17世纪至今的众多展品——这里是了解关于葡萄酒生产、 蒸 馏和香醋制作的知识和信息的理想场所。该酒庄生产的白葡萄品种(阿西 斯可,霞多丽,长相思,马拉松,赛美蓉)和红葡萄品种(梅洛,西拉,莱弗斯 科,赤霞珠和阿吉提可)。非常值得尝试紫晶葡萄酒,包括白葡萄酒、桃红 葡萄酒和红葡萄酒。该酒庄还有许多其他备受欢迎的葡萄酒,如朱莉娅霞 多丽葡萄酒和科斯塔拉扎里迪桃红葡萄酒。 (Kapandriti-Kalamos 2公里 处,Kapandriti Attica,190 14,+30 22950 52 213,domaine-lazaridi.gr)
Papagiannakos Bioclimatic Winery.
帕帕吉亚纳科斯生物气候酿酒厂。
在导游的带领下参观各种设备。
Guided tour of the vineyards.
PAPAGIANNAKOS BIOCLIMATIC WINERY The first bioclimatic winery with specially designed facilities in Greece -awarded at the 2008 Architecture Awards by the Hellenic Institute of Architecture- is located in Markopoulo, Attica, just half an hour’s drive from the centre of Athens. Most of their vineyards surround the winery and the varieties produced here are white from savatiano, malagousia and assysrtiko, and red from merlot, cabernet sauvignon and agiorgitiko. You can visit the winery and experience an excellent guided tour of the facilities. Be sure to try the Savatiano, also available aged, and the malagousia, which, although traditionally produced in northern Greece, the one made at the Papagiannakos winery is a wine of beautiful character. The winery also produces retsina from savatiano. Give it a chance and you will soon appreciate the evolution of this very old Greek tradition. (Poussi - Kalogeri, 19 003, Markopoulo Mesogaia, Attica, +30 22990 25206, papagiannakos.gr)
Savatiano, malagouzia, assyrtiko etc.
萨瓦蒂亚诺,玛拉格西亚和阿西尔提 可等。
The winery also produces retsina. 酒厂也生产松香味葡萄酒。
帕帕吉亚纳科斯生物气候酿酒厂 希腊第一个具有专业设施的生 物气候酿酒厂位于希腊阿提卡 Markopoulo地区,距离雅典市中 心仅半小时车程,该酿酒厂被希腊 建筑学会授予2008年建筑奖。 这里 大部分葡萄园都绕酒庄而建,生产 的葡萄品种包括白葡萄萨瓦蒂亚 诺、马拉加西亚和阿西斯可,红葡 萄品种梅洛、赤霞珠和阿吉提可。 您可以游览酒庄,在导游的带领下 参观各种设施。一定要尝试萨瓦蒂 亚诺葡萄酒,还有陈年马拉加酒, 虽然传统上在希腊北部生产,但 帕帕吉亚纳科斯酒厂生产的马拉 加葡萄酒品质非常卓越。还有以 萨瓦蒂亚诺葡萄生产的松香味葡 萄酒。相信我,您一定会被这古老 的希腊传统深深吸引。 (Poussi Kalogeri,19003,Markopoulo Mesogaia,Attica,+ 30 22990 25206,papagiannakos.gr)
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At Markou Vineyards.
马库酿酒厂。
MARKOU VINEYARDS A family winery which planted the savatiano variety in 1908, by 1920 had managed to sell their own retsina in many areas of Athens. From 1950 to this day, the family has been running the wine shop and cookery “Oinopoleio” on Aeschyllou Street 12 in Psiri, where you can purchase their wine. Their vineyards, 25 acres in Attica and 25 acres in the Peloponnese, produce tasty wines from the white varieties of savatiano, assysrtiko, roditis, malagousia, moschofilero and the red varieties merlot, cabernet sauvignon and agiorgitiko.
The Markou Vineyards have been traditionally producing retsina and have a state-ofthe-art winery that can be visited. They also have a wine museum in Pallini (Ag. Dimitriou Ave. - near Attiki Odos exit 16, +30 2106037933), where they exhibit their collection of agricultural tools from the 16th century to the present day. I suggest you try the barrel aged savatiano, the retsina and the red Rodavgi label. (1st km Markopoulou Ave, Paiania, 19 002, +30 2106644711, ampelonesmarkougroup.gr)
Variety of Markou wines.
马库葡萄酒品种繁多。
Exterior view of the winery. 酒庄风景迷人。
Pressing the grape.
压榨葡萄酒。
马库葡萄园 这家家庭酿酒厂于1908年种植萨瓦蒂亚诺葡萄品种,到1920年,他们已 经在雅典很多地区出售自己生产的松香味葡萄酒。从1950年至今,酒庄 在Psiri地区Aeschyllou街12号经营葡萄酒铺兼熟食店 Oinopoleio, 您可以从此购买葡萄酒。酒厂在阿提卡和伯罗奔尼撒分别拥有25英亩的 葡萄庄园,生产多种优质葡萄酒,白葡萄品种包括萨瓦蒂亚诺、阿瑟西蒂 科、罗迪亚斯、马拉松酒和玫瑰妃,红葡萄品种包括梅洛、赤霞珠和阿吉提 可。马库葡萄庄园拥有可参观的最先进酿酒厂,生产最传统的松香味葡萄 酒。他们还在Pallini设有一家葡萄酒博物馆(Ag. Dimitriou Ave.-Attiki Odos 16号出口,+ 30 2106037933),陈列着从16世纪至今的各种农耕用 具。推荐尝试橡木桶陈酿萨瓦蒂亚诺、松香味葡萄酒以及Rodavgi红葡萄 酒。 (Markopoulou Ave 1公里处,Paiania,19002,+30 2106644711 ,ampelones markougroup.gr) 116 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
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葡萄
– TA S T I N G – ARMATHOS VINEYARDS At Arma Viotias, a small village an hour’s drive from Athens, we find the Armathos winery which specialises in the merlot variety. The hospitable family of the Armathos will give you a tour of the winery that produces 25 to 30 thousand bottles annually from their privately owned vineyards. They produce 4 different labels from the merlot variety, a rose, fresh red, aged red and
– 酒鉴赏 –
natural. Mr. Giorgos’s expertise and love for this variety has produced excellent results. The winery has quality wines and are all worth a try. The region’s terroir expressed in their wines indicates that even in Greece the merlot can produce very good wine. The winery can be visited and the area has many attractions and traditional tavernas for a rest stop. (Arma Thivon Viotias, 32 200, +30 2262071443, armathos.gr)
阿玛索斯葡萄园 阿玛索斯酿酒厂位于Arma Viotias小村庄,距离雅典一小时 车程,专门生产梅洛品种。热情好 客的阿玛索斯家族将带您参观酿 酒厂,该酿酒厂拥有私有葡萄园, 每年生产25000至30000瓶葡萄 酒。以梅洛品种生产四种葡萄酒类 型:桃红葡萄酒,新鲜红葡萄酒,陈 酿红葡萄酒和天然葡萄酒。乔治先生丰富的专业知识以及对这一品种的 热爱酿造出了最出色的葡萄酒。酒庄生产多种优质葡萄酒,全部都值得尝 试。 这里的葡萄酒已经证明梅洛红葡萄品种在希腊也可以酿造出非常好的 葡萄酒。您可以参观酿酒厂,该地区还有许多景点和传统小酒馆。 (Arma Thivon Viotias,32 200,+ 30 2262071443,armathos.gr)
DOMAINE HATZIMICHALIS HAS BEEN WINNING AWARDS SINCE THE 1980 S AND CONTINUES TO EVOLVE EVERY YEAR. 哈兹米哈里酒庄自80年代以来获得 各种殊荣并不断壮大发展。
550 acres of privately owned vineyards.
550英亩私人葡萄园 。
DOMAINE HATZIMICHALIS This is a winery that has played a leading role in history and recognition of bottled Greek wines both in Greece and abroad, winning awards since the 1980s and continues to evolve. The privately owned vineyards spread over an area of 550 acres where they cultivate Greek and international varieties, such as the white chardonnay, malagousia, sauvignon, assysrtiko and red merlot, cabernet, xinomavro, refosco, syrah and aglianico. Every label of this winery has a unique story for your palate. You can visit the winery and take the guided tour which may, upon request, include a private walking tour of the vineyards, dining and various other activities.
While visiting the winery. 参观酒庄 。
哈兹米哈里酒庄 这家酿酒厂在国内外希腊瓶装葡 萄酒历史和发展中一直发挥着领 导作用,自19世纪80年代以来获 得各种殊荣并不断壮大发展。私 有葡萄园绵延在550英亩土地上, 这里种植着各种希腊当地和著名 国际品种,例如白霞多丽,马拉加 酒,长相思,小白菊和红梅洛,赤 霞珠,黑喜诺,莱弗斯科,西拉和艾 格尼科。每个葡萄酒标签背后都有 一个独一无二的故事。您可以自由 参观酒庄,也可以参加带导游的游 览,包括葡萄园私人徒步游览,餐 饮和其他各种活动等。
Domaine Hatzimichalis. 哈兹米哈里酒庄。
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– PERFUMES –
– 香氛 –
Yves Saint Laurent, Libre Eau De Parfum
Narciso Rodriguez, For Her Eau de Toilette
Bvlgari, Splendida Tubereuse Mystique
Alchemy 香水
Chanel, Gabrielle Essence
令人愉悦的芬芳气息带有花 香、水果香和木制香气,赋予 女性气质,彰显女性魅力。
–撰稿:海伦·斯卡柯度–
Perfume ALCHEMY
DELIGHTFUL FRAGRANT NOTES OF FLOWERS, FRUIT AND WOOD SEAL THE FEMININE ALLURE AND GIVE FEMININITY AN IDENTITY.
–by eleni skalkotou, photos: verve studio, fotis karapiperis– 118 / ELEGA NT TR AV EL GR EECE
Saint Laurent, Minaudiere Bag (Luisa World)
Alexander McQueen, Four Ring Velvet Box Clutch (Luisa World) Jean Paul Gaultier, La Belle Eau de Parfum
Lancome, Idole Le Parfum (Hondos Center)
Dior, Joy Eau de Parfum Intense Dolce & Gabbana, The Only One 2 Eau de Parfum
Hermes, Twilly d’Hermes Eau Poivree
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– BEAUTY –
– 丽人 –
The Glow EFFECT GLOW, BRIGHTNESS AND UNIFORM COLOUR; THIS IS BEAUTY’S NEW DEFINITION.
Sensai, Absolute Silk Micro Mousse Treatment
Sensai,完美丝滑慕 斯精华
Shiseido, Future Solution LX Legendary Enmei Ultimate Luminance Serum 资深堂,传奇延命草 高机能精华液
In our eyes, when we look in the mirror, but also in the eyes of others, a face that radiates is synonymous with health and the fresh look of youthful skin. But that is not all, because the new concept in beauty is about smooth shiny skin, free of colour imperfections, even if it has wrinkles. Indeed, as we grow older, our wrinkles, skin pores and increased corneal layer thickness prevent the reflection of light and as a result it gets trapped and makes the skin appear uneven and dull. If we want to restore the lost luster, we need to treat our skin daily with products that stimulate the glow and restore it thanks to innovative folmulas.
–by eleni skalkotou, photos: verve studio, fotis karapiperis–
光彩照人
水光、亮泽与肤色均匀, 这是美丽的新定义。
–撰稿:海伦·斯卡柯度–
当我们照镜子时,以及在其 他人眼中,一张散发着光芒 的面庞通常被认为是健康 年轻肌肤的代表。但这并不 是全部,因为现在美丽的最 新概念是皮肤光滑亮泽,即 使有皱纹,但也不会有肤色 色差。的确,随着年龄的增 长,我们的皱纹、皮肤毛孔 和增厚的角膜层会阻止光 的反射,因此皮肤具有暗 沉,肤色不均。如果想恢复 皮肤原有的光泽,我们需要 每天使用刺激光彩的产品, 借助创新科技配方使皮肤 焕发光彩。
Guerlain, Abeille Royale Day Cream
娇兰,帝皇蜂姿修护日霜
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Dior, Capture Youth Glow Booster Serum (Hondos Center)
迪奥,未来新肌 幻彩光泽精华 (Hondos Center)
La Mer, The Renewal Oil
海蓝之谜, 新生焕肤精华油
Sisley, Sisleya Radiance AntiAgeing Concentrate
La Prairie, Cellular Radiance Concentrate Pure Gold
希思黎,抗皱修活 亮肌精华液
莱珀妮,金颜晶莹 亮采修护精华液
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Drawing inspiration from the traditional costumes of Metsovo.
The artist Yioula Hatzigeorgiou was born in Paphos, Cyprus. She lives and works in Athens. She graduated with honours in Painting and Engraving from the Athens School of Fine Arts in 1999. She continued her postgraduate studies at the National Technical University of Athens. She has held several solo and group exhibitions in Greece and abroad. Her work and jewellery can be found at the Zoumboulakis Gallery (zoumboulakis.gr), at the Benaki Museum (benaki.org) and the concept store True Story Athens (Makriyianni 33, Athens).
哈齐格奥尔乔从迈索沃 传统服饰中汲取灵感。
"Hammer and sickle" as a lucky charm.
“锤子和镰刀” , 象征幸运的吊坠。
思维的艺术
遇见来自塞浦路斯的世界知名 艺术家尤乌拉·哈齐格奥尔乔。
ARTWORK for thought
艺术家尤乌拉·哈齐格奥尔 乔出生于塞浦路斯帕福斯, 现在雅典生活和工作。1999 年以优异的成绩毕业于雅典 美术学院绘画与雕刻专业, 之后在雅典国立技术大学继 续深造。她曾在希腊和国外 多次举办个人和团体展览。 她的作品和珠宝可以在以下 商店找到:Zoumboulakis画 廊(zoumboulakis.gr) ,贝 纳基博物馆(benaki.org)以 及True Story Athens概念店 (Makriyianni 33) 。
A MEETING WITH THE UNIQUE WORLD OF CYPRIOT ARTIST YIOULA HATZIGEORGIOU.
O
ne characteristic evident in the work of Cypriot artist Yioula Hatzigeorgiou, is that she shifts from any kind of certainty, intrinsic and extrinsic, into a new and unknown “landscape”, made of familiar materials. As a whole, her raw materials are the most “humble” and natural: water, ash, salt, soap, wind, fabrics, sand, which have at times served her in this constant visual “play” of transforming tangible reality into a poetic action, a new symbolism. It is no coincidence that Hatzigeorgiou is a contemporary woman who carThe “Cerotto” as an object of art.
“Cerotto”成为艺术品
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ries within her the memories of her birthplace, Cyprus. In her most recent volume of work, Hatzigeorgiou has used ash as her raw material, while another part of her work and jewellery is dedicated to the plaster strip, which is turned into an art object constituting a wearable “monument” of our wounds, but also of our precious human experience. As Hatzigeorgiou states: “Our wounds and scars are valuable. They are living proof of every human’s struggle for one’s values, idiosyncratic uniqueness and beliefs. Jean Genet calls them “our medals” – evidence of a past permeating the present. We choose to adorn our body with the experiences and memories that have shaped us as personalities. We project the wounds and scars as monuments of our individuality, which, at the sane time, also shape us as entities creating a fantastical community that unites people with common wounds, common experiences, a common life”. —by kiki vassalou
塞
浦路斯艺术家尤乌拉·哈齐格奥尔乔的作品拥有一个 非常明显特征,那就是她可以将任何确定性、内在性 和外在性转变为一种由熟悉材料制成的全新未知的“风景” 。 总体而言,她使用的原材料是最朴实与自然的:水,灰,盐, 肥皂,风,织物,沙子,这些材料为她的视觉艺术服务,将有 形的现实转化为无形的诗意,形成一种全新的象征意义。作 为一位当代女性,哈齐格奥尔乔怀念她的出生地塞浦路斯, 这绝非偶然。 哈齐格奥尔乔在她的最新作品中以灰烬为原材料,其他 作品和珠宝则专门利用石膏条,将其转换为艺术品,成为可 穿戴的“纪念碑”,纪念我们的创伤和那些宝贵的人生经历。 正如哈齐格奥尔乔所说: “我们的伤口和疤痕太珍贵了,它是 我们每个人为自己的价值观、特质与信念努力奋斗的证明。 让·吉内特将其称为“我们的勋章”,那些影响着我们当下的 过去。 我们选择以塑造我们个性的经历和记忆来装饰我们的 身体,将伤口和疤痕投射为我们个性的纪念碑,与此同时,这 促使我们建立一个公共社区,将具有共同创伤、共同经验和 共同生活的人们团结在一起。 ” —撰稿:奇奇·瓦萨鲁
“Matches” remind us that dreams can ignite .
“火柴”提醒着我们梦想 可以被点燃。