HEAVEN HAS HEELS
ISSUE 2
holiday 2012
COVER CREDITS PHOTOGRAPHER: Brandon Showers COSTUME DESIGNER: Bao Tranchi MAKEUP: Dominic Elias HAIR: Diana Lomelin MODEL: Alison Stepka L.A. Models
HeavenHasHeels
s.com
contents GIFT GUIDE So many shoes, so little time closet space.
TO HAVE & TO HOLD Our favorite style experts share what they would like to give and receive this holiday season.
TOP-TO-TOE We indulge in top-to-toe shopping thanks to these multi-faceted design houses.
WISH LIST See what makes our most coveted.
HOLIDAY SHOPPING Want to know how your favorite designers shop? We’ve got the answers and more.
HEAVENLY HEELS HAKES STYLE Architect-turned-footwear designer Julian Hakes tells us what it takes to re-invent the heel.
INSPIRED DESIGN London jewelry designer, Vicki Ambery-Smith talks inspiration.
DESIGN HEIGHTS Meet footwear’s up-and-comer Victoria Spruce.
CONFESSIONS OF A BAG LADY Anne Agoren reminisces about her first love (in accessories).
HEAVEN SENT All the action from the Manhattan launch of Heaven Has Heels magazine.
SHOE-TASTIC SHOPPING From us to you, with love. Let your fingers do the walking and nab some of this season’s hottest footwear.
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
EDITOR’S note Surrounded by so much talent, my greatest obstacle has never been what goes into these pages rather, what I must leave out. I’m constantly being reminded that there is another issue to fill, another post to publish, another 140 characters to tweet and yet, there never seems to be a lack of ideas, coveted designs and inspiration. In this, our Holiday Issue, you’ll see all the wonderful content we’ve traveled the world to bring you. From New York to Paris, Melbourne to Milan, our team have
worked tirelessly to find and feature the designers you love (and those favorites you are yet to meet). With exclusive interviews with some of today’s hottest accessory designers—from Julian Hakes to Victoria Spruce—inspiration is only a click away. We hope you enjoy this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed creating it. From our family to yours, have a safe and happy holiday and a heavenly New Year.
Angela Gilltrap
Photo by Stephen Ciuccoli
Editor-In-Chief
DON’T MISS YOUR FREE ISSUE SUBSCRIBE AT HEAVENHASHEELS.COM HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
HEAVEN HAS HEELS Editor-in-Chief Angela Gilltrap Creative Director Sophie Marks Photo Director James Collins Features Director David Barry Associate Editor Emma Watts Copy Editor Amanda Wilkes Web Design Kris Black
CONTRIBUTORS Randy Brooke, Stephen Ciuccoli, Dominic Elias, Krzysztof Kowalski, Diana Lomelin, Misssarajewo, Brandon Showers, Sneed, Dorota Szafranska , Matt Szwajkos, Fiona Thatcher, Tomaas, Seiji Vehara with special thanks to daniel haim
LOT 17 MEDIA
HEAVEN HAS HEELS is a Lot 17 Media Inc. publication. Copyright Š 2012 All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited.
Gift GUIDE
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
GIVE: Assouline’s Proust Questionnaire in Orange Leather. This beautifully bound book includes well over 100 blank pages for your own guests to fill out and date.
RECEIVE: I would love
a new handbag, something rich and exotic that I wouldn’t buy myself. Tom Ford’s Natalia bag in python would simply make my heart sing!
RECEIVE: This is a great gift to receive because it’s perfect for girls on the go. I don’t know about you, but I like to be able to spray a little something refreshing after work, before dinner or prior to an event.
GIVE: Direct from Italy,
this Oblo Creature Maruja Brooch is the perfect gift for your quirky-styled friends, especially those who love finding exclusive pieces from around the world.
KENTON MAGAZINE
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
HIP GUIDE
STYLEDON
SHK MAGAZINE
TO HAVE and TO HOLD
GIVE: I am going to gift the Quintessence holiday candle this year. It’s limited edition from Bergdorf Goodman and smells like that pine-y scent I associate with all things wintry.
RECEIVE: One of my dream items is this GIVE: Who doesn’t love Hermès? With it’s iconic Hermès limited edition Panerai PAM horse motif and red and gold coloring, this bangle is perfect for 395. Panerai owners are a the holidays. A classic piece that very particular will transcend the seasons. RECEIVE: I’ve recently found kind because the watches myself in situations where I are superbly didn’t want to carry a bag, enter made and have the Prada portfolio. It’s a perfect a heritage in accessory for running around sailing. shows at fashion week.
RECEIVE: I love that this sweater can be so high fashion with the right styling—from boho chic to edgy-on-trend—the opportunities are limitless.
SHOPTIQUES GIVE: We’re really into sweaters here at Shoptiques. However, it is hard to find a sweater that will be trendy, warm and go with everything. This is our favorite find this season.
BLOGINITY
BLOGINITY
GIVE: An item I would like to give this holiday season is a Balenciaga handbag bag, in particular, a black Balenciaga City Dots. RECEIVE: Let’s see, I’ve been very much focused on the Alexander McQueen umbrellas for the last two seasons, you know, the one with the skull. That would be my pick.
ENTERTAINISTA GIVE: The DKNY Cozy. This is my all time favorite gift to give around the holidays. I don’t know of a single woman yet who hasn’t fell in love with this wear 12+ ways sweater.
RECEIVE: The ultimate gift from my wish list this year is the super chic Michael Kors Large Barrington Fur Zipper Satchel. This handbag features panels made of leather and dyed Kalgan lamb.
T L
TOP to TOE alexander mcqueen
+ Box Clutch Raso Seta/Ricam
+ Open-Toe Suede Pump in Cherry
Atomflower Skull Brooches Ottone
BURBERRY
+
+ Burberry Brit Eau de Parfum Natural Spray
Burberry Blue and Grey Aviators
Check Panel Rainboots
VERSACE COLLECTION
+
+ Red Turtle Neck Dress
Red Embellished Ankle Boots
Red Suede & Leather Clutch
WISHLIST
LONGCHAMP GATSBY EXOTIC
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
WISHLIST
SWAROVSKI STYLE LARGE BANGLE
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
HOLIDAY Shop ’ TIS THE SEASON TO BE JOLLY OR IS IT?
W Click here to see what kind of holiday shopper you are...
Some people handle gift giving with style and grace while others, well, be prepared for last minute snatch and grabs and re-gifted holiday items. As we make our list and check it twice, we asked some of our favorite designers, fashionistas and trendsetters if they considered themselves organized or chaotic holiday shoppers. You’ll love the answers.
MERC
ORGANIZED
GUCCI shirt; CURA sunglasses.
STUART WEITZMAN Chairman & Designer, STUART WEITZMAN STUARTWEITZMAN.COM “The holidays are a very special time of the year to reflect on, with family and friends. I start thinking of gifts months in advanced as I like to personalize each one.”
AMY SMilovic Creative director, TIBI TIBI.com “Buying gifts online keeps my holiday shopping organized, I don’t have to worry about going to the post office or wrapping gifts. Personalized gifts are my favorite to give!”
BRANDON SUN
Creative director, brandon sun BRANDONSUNCOLLECTION.COM “I like to think I’m pretty organized with my holiday shopping. I have a list that starts in October, that I check much more than twice. I then do as much online shopping as possible and hit the stores for the ones I can’t decide for.”
DON O’NEILL Creative director, THEIA TheiaCOUTURE.com “Organized! We make a list, figure out what to get and then with a stealth plan move up through the city, neighborhood by neighborhood over one weekend to get it all accomplished.”
MONICA BELAG FORMAN PRESIDENT, MAGASCHONI Magaschoni.com “I’m lucky to be surrounded by gorgeous gift ideas everyday, so I try to be organized when it comes to holiday shopping. I believe in the gift of cashmere all year round, it always makes me happy to give cashmere hugs to the people I love!”
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
REEM ACRA Founder & Ceo, REEM ACRA REEMACRA.com “I am very organized and do my shopping ahead of time. One problem, my list is too big.”
ALIZA LICHT SVP GLOBAL COMMUNICATIONS, DONNA KARAN INTERNATIONAL DKNY.com “I’m what I would like to call a last minute, organized holiday shopper. I’m better under buy or die.”
VERONICA WEBB OPENSKY STYLE INSIDER OPENSKY.com /VERONICAWEBB “I have no choice! I have to be a very organized Christmas shopper with friends and family scattered all over the world! I like to shop exclusively from one or two online destinations because that’s just smart business when you think of the savings on shipping. My favorite site for the foodies, fashionistas and the nesters on my list is OpenSky.com.”
STEVEN LAGOS
Founder & Creative director lagos jewelry LAGOS.com “I am a jewelry designer and have an incredible vault in my office. I have no reason to be anything but an organized shopper. My vault is my shopping guide.”
Jackie Fraser-Swan Creative director, EMERSON emerson-collection.com “I would call it organized chaos. I start off with a list: my husband and four kids, my immediate family, extended family members, friends and coworkers. I always end up getting way more for my kids than I mean to and end up having a “wrapping party” aka getting friends to help out!”
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
CHAOTIC
PHOTOGRAPHED BY TOMAAS; STYLED BY SNEED; MAKEUP BY FIONA THATCHER; HAIR BY SEIJI UEHARA FEATURING HANNAH KERN FROM TRUMP MODELS
RAG & BONE shirt; MERCURA sunglasses
Heavenly HEELS HAKES STYLE Distinctively original, Julian Hakes created
Using his own foot, he wrapped it in tracing
a demand for his designs well before
paper and started drawing shapes. “If I could
contemplating a career in the footwear
raise the foot off the ground enough that the
industry. An award-winning architect, the
arch isn’t touching, I could design a shoe that
economic downturn put into place a unique
doesn’t need that support.” Hakes drew a shape
set of circumstances that saw this talented
that spiraled his toes, wrapping around the
designer—a bridge design specialist—embark
back of his heel and foot and, the Mojito Heel
on a journey to re-create the heel.
was born. “When I was done, I looked at it and thought I’ve never seen a shoe like that before
“Actually, I was in this exact spot when I
and I wondered if it might work.”
started,” says Hakes. It’s late afternoon in New York and we’re chatting via Skype; Hakes is in
It wasn’t until several months later, when the
his London studio where the ‘Mojito’ Heel first
world economy slowed that Hakes
took shape, I’m on Madison Avenue overlooking thought any further about his the well-heeled strutting below. “I was originally inspired by the shape of a footprint in the sand,” says Hakes. “I thought if those are the two parts where most of the load is distributed, what is the importance of the middle section?”
afternoon experiment.
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012 HEAVEN HAS HEELS fall 2012
“It was a combination of many things,” says
been a process. We were really learning from
Hakes. “At the time, all of my big clients had
scratch.”
put their projects on hold. Instead of traveling around the world designing bridges, I was able to experiment.” And experiment he did.
Coming from a different field entirely, Hakes has never been schooled with what you “can and can’t do” in footwear manufacturing. There have
Hakes took out his designs once more and made
been no limitations only discovery, innovation
a few 3D graphics of which he published on
and experimentation with new digital techniques
architectural website, Dezeen.com. The rest, as
particularly with carbon fiber as a key material.
they say, is history.
When he discusses his techniques, unique
“It was the first time I’d ever published anything
inventory management and manufacturing
on Dezeen.com. But later that evening, the
processes he uses architectural examples, his
editor phoned me and told me to put my name
former field never far from his mind. Perhaps
into a Google search. I didn’t understand what
another reason why he has succeeded where
he meant, but having spent ten years designing
many have failed.
bridges and buildings all over the world, there was not a single mention of Julian Hakes the Architect, it was Julian Hakes the Shoe Designer.”
Today, Hakes has joined forces with an international manufacturer and distributor, responsible for some of the world’s top fashion footwear brands, to bring his designs to life.
Media requests came pouring in from around
Most are produced in a snowboard factory with
the globe but the shoe was still only a concept.
price point a very important consideration.
Almost three years later, Hakes has traded
“I don’t want to design a shoe one person can
one bridge for another. It has been a long and
wear,” says Hakes. And witnessing the buzz that
challenging road to develop, refine and perfect
these designs have created, we’re sure there will
the sculptural elements of his design. “I guess
soon be Hakes’ Heels pounding the pavement
having worked as an architect, I am used to
on city streets around the world. — ANGELA
waiting to see my designs take shape but it has
GILLTRAP
HAKES.CO.UK
Casual KICKS PHOTOGRAPHED BY krzysztof kowalski & dorota szafranska MAKEUP & styling bY misssarajewo FEATURING kamila limanowicz from VOX MODELS MANAGEMENT
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
TARASKA dress; H&M necklace and cuffs
BERSHKA blouse; TALLY WEIJL trousers; vintage belt.
H&M top; DIVERSE DIY shorts; CUSTOM boots
ZARA jacket and trousers.
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
Inspired DESIGN with jewelry designer VICKI AMBERY-SMITH
What draws you to architecture as inspiration? We all have a connection with architecture from birth. Where we live, perhaps were we work, special occasions such as weddings, holidays, high days and holy days... So the pieces I design make a personal connection between the place and the wearer. Was jewelry design always your master plan? I went to art school in Oxford—my home town—for one year of Art Foundation (this is the system in England). It’s an opportunity to try out all kinds of art subjects before choosing a three year degree course; life drawing, sculpture, ceramics, photography, graphics & jewelry. It became clear during that year that my skills lay in detailed 3D small scale sculpture. How do you think your surroundings contribute to your design aesthetic? I grew up in Oxford, which I hadn’t considered as anything particularly special until I
moved to London for my degree course. We were trained at college to draw, then extract design ideas from what we drew. I started on this architecture theme on a holiday trip to Slazberg which struck in it’s similarity to Oxford. 17th & 18th century architecture caught my attention to begin with before I expanded both directions to medieval, Elizabethan (Globe Theatre) and modern (Guggenheim Museum). When it comes to wear-ability, have you ever compromised on form for the sake of function? Yes, in terms of size and 3D effect (Tromp D’oille). So that a brooch for example, won’t stick out too much, or an item have sharp corners. What are your favorite materials to work with? I like the combination of silver with different color golds. This allows some emphasis of certain details and also color representation in a figurative sense eg. Red gold for terracotta roofs or brick work. I
sometimes include a gem stone where it might look good, or for a ruby anniversary piece. To check out more of Vicki Ambery-Smith’s amazing designs click on the web bar below.
VICKIAMBERYSMITH.CO.UK
TOP LEFT: Oxford Ring; BOTTOM LEFT: Jubilee Brooch; ABOVE: St Paul’s Cathedral brooch
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
Bilbau Guggenheim brooch
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
DESIGN Heights VICTORIA SPRUCE TAKES HEELS TO A NEW LEVEL
Victoria Spruce’s designs merge traditional and experimental elements to create one of a kind works of wearable art, it’s something she felt she was destined to do. “I’ve wanted to design shoes since I was about five years old. My desire to has only increased the older I’ve gotten and the more skills I’ve developed,” says Spruce. “I know it’s strange to know what you want to do from such a young age but I guess I’m just one of those annoying people.” Utilizing a mixture of synthetic and natural materials—from plastic to leather—Spruce’s design choices create familiar yet original visual contrasts. “I think understanding shape and how something will look on the foot is important,” says Spruce. “The lines need to flow.” Based out of London, the recent Royal Collage of Art graduate has a keen eye for fashion and a point of view that juxtaposes the concept of hard and soft. “My designs are predominately inspired by shapes and silhouettes found in sculpture and architecture,” she says. “I find it fascinating to take elements of a much larger structure and scale them down to the size of a shoe,” says Spruce. “I think lines and shape are the most important aspects of design so this is where I focus my attention.”
Spruce designs with a confident fluidly that gracefully merges modern technologies with traditional stylistic techniques. Still, even when breaking boundaries, the young designer doesn’t forget about form meets function. “People still need to be able to walk in your creations, compared to a hat or piece of jewelry,” she notes. “It’s slightly irritating that when I design a shoe I need to be completely certain that someone won’t break their ankle due to poor design, but it’s something that you learn as you go along. It becomes natural in the design process.” In today’s world of heavenly heels, there are a select few footwear “innovators” that have paved the way but no one said re-inventing the heel would be easy.“It has its disadvantages,” says Spruce. “Creating new and innovative designs holds a lot more challenges and higher costs,” explains Spruce. But the pay off, as we can see, is something both unique and original. With the name “Victoria Spruce” popping up all over the industry and throughout the blogosphere, this talented up-and-comer plans to keep pushing the design limits and following her longtime goal. “I guess being a great ‘footwear designer’ is something that I will always be striving for,” says Spruce. “You can always produce something newer and better.” — RACHEL ELEANOR SUTTON
VICTORIASPRUCE.COM
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
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CONFESSIONS of a Bag Lady air around her saying she could smell something really bad. Anne Agoren, designer of Izzi bag and well-rounded London New Yorker, reminisces about her first accessory It turned out whilst routing around for her door keys that on the way home, she found out what it was, a cooked pork love affair. Ever since I was a little girl I’ve loved handbags. I remember that my mother always carried a different bag depending on her mood or her dress. Back in those days every accessory matched, from gloves to shoes, handbags to yes, even fascinators. I remember when I was so small sitting in my mother’s closet just holding her bags, smelling the leather and stroking the fine fabrics that they were made from, pretending they were mine. Each and everyone was kept in its own separate dust bag which she had professionally cleaned, can you imagine? Sitting there I used to imagine that I was a chic ‘It’ girl and that everyone was staring admiringly at me as I sauntered along the streets of London carrying my oh so expensive handbag. I’d wander past a mirror and check my reflection imaging my “grown up” life and dreaming of the day I owned my own stylish collection. My sister, who is nine years older than me, used to make fun and laugh, but in my head I was shouting out, “Mock all you like, but one day they will be mine, all mine. When my mother dies she will leave them all to me.” What a dreadful thought, but I was a child with dreams (thankfully my mother is now eighty-two and still fighting fit). But why handbags? It’s something I’ve pondered often and in my opinion, it’s because wherever we go, we carry our lives in them. If you’re on the skeptical side, go check your bag right now. I bet you will find everything you need to survive the day—from keys, subway pass, lippy, perfume, wallet, sunglasses, readers, am I wrong? No, of course I’m not. I once had a girlfriend that whilst we were having a cocktail in a swanky wine bar in London, kept sniffing the
chop that she had taken with her that morning in case of an emergency!
But what would you pay for a handbag and what would you give up to own that oh so expensive bag? Even as a handbag designer who loves, loves my own brand, I still wanted to have that bag you know the one I mean, the one that has the craftsman’s initials on the inside strap, the one that most of us menials have to get on a waiting list for nearly two years (the one that Victoria Beckham can put her hands on, in any color of cotton candy she desires at the flick of a well manicured finger nail). Well, it took me until I was 52 years old to get that bag, I saved for years. And when I could finally afford it, did it give me the satisfaction I’d longed for? The odd thing was, I felt really guilty for spending such an amount on a handbag, I came out in a cold sweat just thinking about what I could have done with that money, how many Pork Chops it would have bought. What were my friends going to say when they saw it? Would they judge me or would they be envious? I actually had the bag some while before I plucked up the courage to take it for a walk. That is not to say I hadn’t carried it around my home, wandering time and time again past my full length mirror just to see what it looked like on me. I may be a little older and a little wiser but some things never change. — IZZIBAG.COM
LAUNCH PARTY Hosted by The Jimmy Rooftop Bar at The James Hotel in downtown Manhattan, fashion’s finest gathered to celebrate the inaugural issue of Heaven Has Heels Magazine. The first event in the New York Fashion Week calendar, Cupcake Vodka and Perrier were on hand to ensure guests toasted in style while Swig Social and fashion photographer Randy Brooke captured all the action. To check out more from the party click here.
The view from The Jimmy
Michael Antonio Pumps
Heaven Has Heels’ Angela Gilltrap with Derek Warburton
Joseph Ungoco and Reiva Cruze
HEAVEN SENT
Alicia Oliveri, Jessica Abraham, Casey Kettleson, Jennifer Heal
Kebra Hutton and Benjamin L. Setiawan
Amanda Jennings and Alexander Patino
AndrĂŠ Supa and Julia Lang
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
shop Our editors have traversed the globe to bring you the best in designer footwear. From Sergio Rossi to Stuart Weitzman, let your fingers do the walking.
HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
SERGIO ROSSI
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VINCE CAMUTO
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GUESS
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GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI
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HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
DSQUARED 2
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BOTTEGA VENETA
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STUART WEITZMAN
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HEAVEN HASHAS HEELS holiday 2012 HEAVEN HEELS fall 2012
CIRCUS BY SAM EDELMAN
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HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
DONNA KARAN
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Dr. MARTENS
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CESARE PACIOTTI
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HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
DVF
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HEAVEN HAS HEELS holiday 2012
MICHAEL KORS
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