DOROTHYPERKINS.COM
DEBENHAMS.COM
DEBENHAMS.COM
CONTENTS 78
Editor’s Letter 6 Must Have spring 2019 article 10 Between Lines editorial 16 Pantone Living Coral article 26 Get Comfortable editorial 30 Paco Rabanne fashion metallurgist article 46 Iconic Revival editorial 48 Victoria Beckham beauty looks article 56 XOXO editorial 62 Fashion Weeks Review Trends article 72 Shaughnessy Brown interview cover story 78 Accessories at fashion weeks street style article 88 Cargo Pants Comeback article 92 Boring Office editorial 94 Versace new campaign article 104 Kitty Boss editorial 108 Fashion Photographers to follow article 122 Glossy West editorial 128 Goodbye, Karl Lagerfeld article 138 Neoplasticismo article 142 Harmonic Disharmony editorial 144 Celebrities turned designers article 154 Escape editorial 156 Kenya Paradise article 172
COVER STORY Photography, Production, Art Direction Les Mijotés Style Bàrbara Vélez Model Shaughnessy Brown c/o New York models Makeup Victor Noble Hair style Amy Farid c/o Honey Artists Set Design Izzy Garcia
EDITOR’S LETTER 156
P
assword: Power. It can be seen and interpreted in many ways, in general it is often seen by people as something negative that the powerful use to overwhelm the weak. Here I’d like to think of it as something to think about and aspire to. How much unused power does each of us have? Certainly humans have some very great ones: to get up, reinvent themselves, survive. Today we celebrate all these people who struggle every day looking at their dreams from bottom and who are really committed to achieve them, those who have achieved the goal or are doing it. We celebrate human dedication, our power. Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione
Marta Forgione
NEXT.CO/UK
Editor’s letter ISSN: 2612-2871 PRESIDENT, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Marta Forgione martaforgioneph@gmail.com Raimondo Scintu street, 78 - 00173 Rome Italy CONTRIBUTORS FOR THIS ISSUE: LAYOUT Giuseppe Sindoni Laura Bobak WRITERS Alys Jackman Laura Zanovello Nina Hanz Veronica Valdambrini Eleonora Moneta Gaétane Auffret PHOTOGRAPHERS Katharina Werle, Det Kempke, Tim Thiel, Vasilis Topouslidis, Les Mijotés, Domenico Petralia, Piotr Krawczyk, Slavica Veselinovic, Paulina Wesolowska, Alessandro Esposito AGENCIES WhyNot models, Passepartout4u srl, Freelance Agency, Line Up, Brave models, Wonderwall, Rebel models, More models, Women Management Milano, Honey Artists, New York Models, M4 models, Louisa models, Dtales Creative Agency, Milk Management, Muga model management
ADVERTISING hello.latestmagazine@gmail.com Rome Italy 2019 | p.iva 15126391000 | ROC registration n. 32682 Published bimonthly by LATEST srls unipersonale in February, April, June, August, October Printed by Facciotti s.n.c - Vicolo Pian Due Torri 74, 00146 Rome (Italy) Available in digital and printed version on latestmagazine.net (best price) Distribuited via DHL and UPS | price on website €15 - digital €4.5 Price in stores: IT €15 UK £17 US $15 UE €17
JOHNLEWIS.COM
must have by Laura Zanovello
This Spring features a variety of new faces as well as old friends. We all know by now that warmer weather equals brighter colours and curious patterns -which were widely present and represented in a widespread 70s vibe- but along with that, more earthy and neutral colours have been found amongst the creations of many designers, giving a good balance of fun and classy to play with. In terms of shapes and volumes, there is yet another contrast. The boss lady, with her square blazers and wide shoulders, was walking along a more romantic friend that loves bows and soft layers of fabric. There is room for everyone to express themselves or, why not, to mix things up. The cherry on top was represented by practicality, perfectly embodied by the biker shorts that are not only easier and more democratic than those very-short-shorts that models look so good in, but also quite versatile and pair well with virtually any top, or blouse, or jacket, or dress even! In terms of accessories, a special mention goes to bags. The summery vibe we love is translated into the use of nets and fringes, and that artisanal look that makes us think of those little stands on the beach. On the other side the accessory that keeps everyone still in love is the belt bag, aka fanny pack, that has been under the spotlight for a few seasons and does not seem to have lost its appeal. As far beauty is concerned there was a shift from clothes to face and hands for our dear shimmers and sparkles. Sparkly eyeshadows and metallic mani are going to be big this season and glossy, shiny hair will do their part too. It is always worth remembering that sunscreen should be worn all year round, but especially in spring and summer it is important to be more aware of the reapplication. SPF should not mess with a full face of makeup and, to preserve it, the innovations in the beauty industry come to the rescue. Spring 2019 Trends
TAKE A BOW
1.
This retro/ultra feminine staple is coming back in full force on dresses, blouses, skirts and shirts. The proportions are exaggerated on clothes but more subtle alternatives can be found on accessories such as hair ties and earrings. A winning look can be achieved with making our bow the start of the show and keeping the rest very minimal. The only exception? A not so subtle sparkle on the eyes to keep things interesting, one of the big beauty trends for this spring.
2.
3. Prada Black Organza top www.prada.com
Sylvain Le Hen hair barrette hairdesignaccess.fr 1.Miu Miu SS2019 | Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv 2.Dion Lee white corrugated pleat trousers farfetch.com 3.MAC mini pigment in Rose maccosmetics.com
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SANDY TONES
1.
This neutral, classy range of colours was very present on Riccardo Tisci’s first runway show for Burberry. Not that surprising considering that the iconic trench colour inscribes perfectly into this palette. But this hue, declined in various shades, turned out to be rather present on the catwalk of many designers this season thus making it a desirable alternative to the more-wintery grey. A neutral palette is therefore maintained for this look while a twist is given by the statement heels and your best natural hair, with a glossy finish.
2.
3.
Acne Studios slim fit ribbed sweater farfetch.com
Nicholas Kirkwood suede leather sandals farfetch.com 1.Burberry SS2019. Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv 2.Max Mara gabardine skirt maxmara.com 3.IGK “Expensive” Amla Oil Hi-Shine hair Topcoat igkhair.com
BOSS WOMAN
1.
Truthfully, the strong and independent woman theme has been a thing for quite some time now, but designers - and usseem to keep loving it and being able to find new ways to portray it. This time, the chosen alternative goes something like “I stole my boyfriend’s jacket but I’m making it sexier”. The sexy and mysterious look is achieved with dark bold lips and -obviouslysunglasses to top a skintight but not too revealing black dress.
2.
3. Louis Vuitton boyfriend jacket louisvuitton.com
Alain Mikli for Oliver Peoples Ayer sunglasses alainmikli.com 1.Mugler SS2019. Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv 2. Reformation Christina crepe dress in black farfetch.com 3. Fenty Beauty Mattemoiselle Plush Matte Lipstick Griselda sephora.it
p.13
TIE DIE FOR
1.
Prints, especially colourful and floral ones are always a big hit on any Spring/Summer collection. This time the theme took a 70s turn and portrayed a tie-dye motif that periodically makes its return on the scenes. This boho-beachy vibe is kept for this look with an interesting clutch and big earrings. Since the sun is getting warmer but we do not want to mess up our make-up, this setting mist with SPF 50 becomes our best friend.
2.
3. Cult Gaia Tallulah Bean Bag - Tortoise cultgaia.com
Luiny Onda No.1 earrings luiny.com 1.Christian Dior SS2019. Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv 2.Prabal Gurung tie-dye empire waist gown modaoperandi.com 3.5. Supergoop Defense Refresh Setting Mist SPF 50 amazon.com
BIKER SHORTS
1.
One of the biggest and probably most practical trends for this spring is biker shorts. The versatility of this garment is remarking. Pair it with a dangerously short dress, a casual tshirt, a boxy shirt and dress them up or down, the possibilities are endless according to the occasion. This casual outfit features an asymmetric cardigan and a very practical and very coveted piece, the infamous fanny pack that finally gave our hands and shoulders a break. Metallic nail polish to complete the look and off we ride!
2.
3.
Jacquemus asymmetric cardigan farfetched.com
Ted Baker Krakan leather belt bag tedbaker.com 1.Prada SS2019. Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv 2.Essie nail polish in Empire Shade of Mind essie.com 3.Fendi black Lycra biker shorts www.fendi.com
p.15
Beetween Lin BETWEEN LINES
between lines
LINES
BETWEEN LINES
lines
Photography Katharina Werle Style Jasmin Daouiji Model Vivien c/o Muga model management Makeup, hair style Magdalena Wlodarkiewicz
Beetween Lines Beetween Lines
nes
Opening: Cardigan Maiami | Skirt Philomena Zanetti | Here & Opposite: Shirt Minx | Jacket Riani
Dress Dimitri | Blazer Closed | Opposite: Blouse Riani | Pants Strenesse | Shoes Mime et Moi | Earrings Swarovski
Here & Opposite: Dress Marina Hรถrmanseder
Opposite: Shirt Philomena Zanetti | Pants Guess
Editor’s letter PANTONE LIVING CORAL
the Elegance of
IN YOUR DESIGN
photo by shutterstock
It’s not orange, it’s not pink and it hold all the variety and beauty of nature: Living Coral recalls the vivid shades of the Reef in its most cheerful and colourful manifestation. by Veronica Valdambrini
Colours have the ability to evoke different feeling and reactions. The influence of them can completely change the idea we have of a certain space or element, moreover the colours we surrounds ourselves with can have a profound impact on our lives. For this 2019 PANTONE bets on coral, the eco-friendly and the right mix of retro and social aesthetics colour. A bold and playful colour full of energy where pink and orange meet each other. It is an animating and lifeaffirming red coral hue, evokes images of tropical seas. It’s bold and loud, yet warm and elegant at the same time, symbolising our innate need for optimism and joyful pursuits. PANTONE Living Coral embodies our desire for playful expression. p.26
This beautiful colour represents the fusion of modern life, is a nurturing colour that appears in the natural surroundings and at the same time, displays lively presence within social media. PANTONE 16-1546 Living Coral is orangish coral hue with a golden undertone. We rely so much on social media and technology in interaction, which has made us distant and less empathic. Therefore, Living Coral reminds us to take care of each other, nurture intimacy and authentic connection. This colour is supposed to have “humanizing” factor, said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of Pantone. “Living Coral - even the name is energetic and makes us reflect on the stunning beauty we find in nature,” said Pantone linking the choice of coral hue to two common themes ecosystems and climate change. “With consumers craving human interaction and social connection, the humanising and heartening qualities displayed by the convivial Pantone Living Coral hit a responsive chord”. Laurie Pressman, Vice President of the Pantone Colour Institute The Colour of the Year 2019 represents corals and more generally talking oceans, consequently, it is a way to make us to reflect about the “devastating” effect the society on the environment.
The bright, pinky orange is certainly a fun, warm, and poppy colour choice to celebrate this year. Living Coral is a hymn to the positivity, and in 2019 we will see it express in infinite shapes, in design as well in fashion and it will be inspiration for designers and creatives. Designers have already been sharing some stellar works inspired by this coral hue during the SS19 Fashion shows: red coral looks and dresses with feathers in red and orange with Marc Jacobs, coral top and headband with Miuccia Prada, bold coral dress with shells in Altuzarra catwalk, avant-garde top with Sacai and Chanel with its accessories.
By Laskasas
.com
This colour is linked to tactility and human connection so it’s perfect in shag rugs, cozy blankets and lush upholsteries to create a warm and friendly feeling at home, also this hue adds, without overdo, a dramatic pop of colour to any room setting. It matched beautifully with fresh white, soft greys and along with lighter woods, also it is particularly fascinating when it is combined with light blues and dirty purples, creating and instilling a sense of positivity and lightness idyllic. Leave your mark by inspiring with warm, tropical and contemporary atmosphere thanks to a cool matching of the trendiest colours.
A retro taste in trend with the ultimate vintage aesthetic but also with a trendy and contemporary appeal, Living Coral will set up intimate environments full of personality. So which is the best way to incorporate this enchanting hue, so delicate and challenging into our home decor? It’s expression of a lively nature but don’t be frightened of its brightness. Living Coral is softer than coral, then easier to use in interiors. Its warm and comfortable hues will be perfect to jazz up your walls.
Feike Rug by White Label Living | miliashop.com
Editor’s letter cture & design by menard dw orkind archite auty salon Mon treal, Canada | The hideout be
Pantone’s 2019 Colour of the Year is more versatile than you might think. This coral can be used in any interior design, from mid-century modern to liberty, and also it’s a fun accent colour for boho styles. It’s beautiful pairing with contrast dusty and cold colours such as ice light blue, grey, mauve or even sage green. It’s perfect with brass home decorations, another big interior design trend.
| ph David Dw orkind
The palette ranges from pink to terracotta, peach and coral, combined with different shades of green from emerald to turquoise. The beauty of Living Coral shades will be emphasise - even more - thanks to a combination of frames and accessories in black. Too add brightness, some accents in warm metals and in natural green plants.
apartment in New York, designed by Russian interior designer Reutov Dmitry
The Living Coral shade is perfect if combined with the typical nuances of the earth: the brown fallow, the khaki, the russet, the ecru and the dark brown. In these combinations will emerge the optimistic spirit of the coral and will be transmitted vitality and lightness to the environments. How this colour affects the interior design? The result can be surprising, sometimes even shocking. Furthermore, if used and dosed, even at lower doses, this coral shade can create relaxing and positive vibes, and at the same time a feeling of coziness and safety at your space. An unique colour, perfect to interpret the ethnic à la Frida Kahlo otherwise a mix & match style with recycled furniture, so trendy.
Johnlewis.com | Cabana 4 Seater Garden Lounging Set
bedroom | courtesy of elmueble.com
The most eclectic surfaces are affected too, in line with the main interior design diktat 2019. In fact, there are many materials in which the palette of Living Coral is fully used, ranging from the most pop and decisive ones up to the peaceful and romantic ones. Chairs and armchairs to match with linen and lamps, vases and even vintage decors given the 60s allure of this shade. Pantone’s Living Coral is generating a lot of buzz in the decor industry and it’s easy to see why. With the energy of orange paired with the softness of pink is unavoidable to infuse a feeling of lightness and warmth outlined by balance and elegance. Exquisite, a frivolous and feminine soul thanks to pink accent, but with a strong and confident personality flexible enough to adapt to any fussy. Living Coral is a nuance of impact to enrich the house with personality and charm.
p.29
Photography Det Kempke Style Nathalie von Gordon Model Jerry E c/o Louisa models Hair Style, Makeup Karina Asmus
Opposite: Denim shorts MSGM | Blouse TotĂŞme | Slide Sandals Moschino
Here: Top Balenciaga | Earrings Jil Sander
Opening: Cutout Jeans Maison Margiela | Earrings Zara
Opposite: Shirt Jil Sander | Paperbag Trouser Asos | Earrings Vibe Harsløf
Western Track Suit Converse for Mademe | Bustier Calvin Klein | Ankle Boots Mansur Gavriel | Socks Adidas
Linen Jacket Acne Studios | Body Maison Margiela | Socks Reebok for Victoria Beckham
Opposite: Sneakers Hogan | Tote Bag DKNY
Coat Max Mara | Sneakers Hogan | Glasses Vintage
Jumpsuit MM6 Maison Margiela | Bucket Hat Burberry | Tote Bag DKNY | Jelly sliders Asos
Opposite: Body & Pillow Maison Margiela | High Heels Vintage | Bracelet Jil Sander
Suit Zara | Shirt Calvin Klein Jeans | Sneakers New Balance | Ring Maison Margiela
Opposite: Suit Maje | Belt Obey | Sneakers New Balance
Hoodie Reebok for Victoria Beckham | Bracelet Jil Sander
FASHION METALLURGIST:
Paco Rabanne by Veronica Valdambrini
69 Space Bag
It was 1966 when “l’Enfant Terrible” has his
with diamonds and plastic the stylist became
breakout show “Twelve Unwearable Dresses In
famous. The collector Peggy Guggenheim was
Contemporary Materials”.
one of his first customers, and the yé-yé star Françoise Hardy became a fan. Radiant and
Rabanne broke utterly with convention. The
forward-thinking, Paco Rabanne’s
models, including coloured models, walked
otherworldly creations became protagonists of
down the catwalk barefoot on the notes of
60s and 70s movie like Barbarella with Jane
“Hammer without master” by Pierre Boulez.
Fonda, Casinò Royale, Two for the Road with Au-
Caused a frenzy with his provocative and un-
drey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot in the music
usual material on seductive bodies. At that time
video for her song “Contact”.
he appears as a fashion alien, considered one of the pioneers of the Space Age. Provocative and extravagant, Paco Rabanne loved to experiment through a futuristic world with strong and sensual women. Every catwalk shows became a
“space odyssey”. The fashion brand introduced
Jane Fonda in Paco Rabanne
radical fashion during a time when the world was still learning about itself and the universe around it, infusing elements from Hollywood and science fiction with romantic hits of Parisian glam. The clothes break the bonds with the aesthetics of the time to become a form of expression that contains reminiscences of visual arts. Rabanne’s designs existed in the space between art and fashion, they were irresistible. Among ostrich feathers, paper, hammered metal knitted leather, gold plates
“
Tricolored discs by Paco Rabanne, 1966
I defy anyone to design a hat, coat or dress that hasn’t been done before... The only new frontier left in fashion is the finding of new materials.
”
Disc-o-Rama Dress by Paco Rabanne, 1967
Paco Rabanne captured the spirit of the age: it was direct, it was sexy, it was delightfully spatial
The ‘60s turned out some delicious cocktails designs were far from conservative. Paco tails technically, but the energy has been reof elegant erotica, it was the age of Space Rabanne led the field of radical experimen- enlivened yet brought back down to earth and Sex Exploitation where lounge music tation in elite fashion design. The brand was and made fresh for girls today. Julien was fusion of jazz and sex in design lounge. always pretty unique on the landscape of Dossena was named creative director of the That’s when Camille 2000 was released. A fashion: radical modernity, sharpness and brand in 2013 and he explains “are about splashy epic movie unlike any other; with
femininity a feeling of freedom and innova- giving back the strength of Paco Rabanne’s
gorgeous pop art visuals, it’s a feast of vi- tion. The important was to remain imperti- work but also exerting my voice.” sual styles, sensitive performances and nent and radical, so no more a dress chosen It’s all about the importance of capturing women with the power of seduction but randomly inside the wardrobe. A revolution millennials generation. Today the never looking cheap. Funky, sexy a mod- in the fashion industry. Subversive and au- collections combine modernity with ern soundtrack by master Piero Piccioni. dacious, the designer makes metal his sig- influences from the brand’s rich history; A perfect combination that will allow Paco nature and dresses women in protective and Dossena is determined to respect the brand Rabanne to design costumes and collabo- threatening armors. The new generations while offering bold innovation. rate with famous costume designer Enrico simply call it “chain bag” for its design. 50 Fabrication, the artistic avant-garde and Sabbatini.
years after its birth the return of the iconic material-derived silhouettes have played
The Rabanne’s woman is eroticism and “69”. It is a fact that it has selected among key roles in shaping the identity of Paco Raprovocation, an extraordinary and
the 50 bags that have changed the world. banne. This half-century of Paco
“mo-dern” vision in relation to the aesthetic This sculptured-bag is made up of a series of Rabanne is a celebration of how to keep canons of the era.
“
steel discs and metal rings, which together fashion relevant. The Rabanne’s design was form an avant-garde structure. The
Une robe metallique, c’est è la fois offert et inacessibles, c’est cą l’erotisme. Paco Rabanne
always something special and timeless with
technological and futuristic an innovative boost. In Rouen, The Musée aesthetic the 69 is an immediate Le Secq de Tournelle, an old church which success for the brand. hosts a unique collection of metalwork and
”
Over the years it will ironware, celebrates the innovative work of be interpreted with
the Space Age designer in a temporary exhibition. An ode to his incredible
The stylist dresses revealed more than then different materials: plastic, leather, alumina futuristic and avant-garde metallic creconcealed and often the piece had to be and sequins. “Japanese designer Rei
ations that interact wonderfully with the
shaped directly on the body. The designer Kawacubo bought hers as a student in the collections of the Musée de la ferronnerie. loves shapes and for him fashion is a game. 1970s and still use it” For Dossena’s Paco Accompanied by rare archives, videos,
“Don’t seduce, shock”.
Rabanne, modernity today is less about magazines from the time and, of course,
Between 60s and 70s Rabanne created
the physical and more the spirit. Of course, original pieces, this exhibition is really
sophisticated clothing for the jet set, but his there are still slinky chain and paillette de- worth a look.
Photos-69 Bags
INFO: Date: until May, 19th, 2019 Place: Musée Le Secq des Tournelles, 2 Rue Jacques Villon, 76000 Rouen More informations: http://museelesecqdestournelles.fr/
p.47
Iconic Revival Photography Vasilis Topouslidis c/o Dtales Creative Agency | Style Angelica Stenvinkel Model Beauise c/o Milk Management | Makeup, Hair Style Stefi Bazavan
Opening: Hat & other stories Earrings Mayu Top Junne Here: Sunglasses Vintage Shirt Simon Mo Jumper Junne Trench Acne Studios Trousers Rag & Bone Shoes Gianvito Rossi
Sunglasses Vintage Shirt Simon Mo Opposite: Sunglasses Dolce & Gabbana Jumpsuit Miss Selfridges Blazer Acne Studios
Shirt Simon Mo Tie Vintage Blazer & other stories Trench Gayeon Lee Trousers Junli Shoes Gianvito Rossi Opposite: Jumpsuit Anna Mason Shoes Gianvito Rossi
Dress Attico Scarf Vintage Tights Wolford Opposite: Jumpsuit styled as trousers Miss Selfridges Blazer Acne Studios
2019: GET READY FOR
By Alys Jackman
4. Wearing a smokey eye for Fashion’s Night Out in NYC
As Victoria Beckham Limited announces new beauty range, we take a look back at some of the designer’s memorable beauty looks throughout her 25-years in the public eye
p.56
2. by Steve Finn_Getty Images
Designer Victoria Beckham once declared, ‘I believe you can achieve anything in life if you work hard enough to get it’. As living proof of that statement, Beckham’s impressive transformation from former Spice Girl and David’s other half to major player within the fashion realm continues to expand with announcement of the upcoming launch of Victoria Beckham Beauty set to debut in Autumn/Winter 2019. Tongues were wagging and rumors circulating back in 2018 when, much to the delight of her fans, Beckham revealed she was starting up a YouTube channel that would feature beauty tutorials. No stranger to using social media platforms for leverage, the beauty and wellness products will be sold exclusively through her official website, directly to consumers as previously done through the VB fashion line before she branched out into standalone stores.
1. Posh spice / from the Spice Girls movie in the nineties 3. Cheryl Tweedy and Victoria Beckham at Wags / ph Ross Kinnaird / Getty Im-
What can be expected from the collection? Nowadays, Beckham exudes an elegance and penchant for luxury, evident in her minimal yet sophisticated and professional fashion line. Well-revered by critics and fashion editors (who can forget her video for Vogue’s 73 questions?), it’s no secret that she’s a fan of highend skincare products such as Dr. Lancer’s and La Mer’s. Can we expect products of this quality? VB says of the brand, “I want to take care of women inside and out, providing them with the must-have items in makeup, skincare, fragrance and wellness that I feel I need in my own life”. This isn’t Beckham’s first foray into beauty; her previous makeup range in collaboration with Estée Lauder was a sell-out. In fact, co-founder and CEO of Victoria Beckham Beauty is none other than Sarah Creal - the former Estée Lauder executive who helped in creating the original capsule collection. “I’m going to be asking women to tell me which products they want me to develop for them in the beauty and wellness arenas. It’s important for me to know what they want” reveals Beckham. The inclusion of ‘wellness’ in her statement could be telling - is chameleon Beckham (a fan of crystals and positive vibes) perhaps gearing towards the lifestyle area like Gwyneth’s Goop? Whilst news reports in 2018 were rife with details of her company’s financial losses, Londonbased Victoria
5. Royal Wedding / ph WPA Pool / Getty
Beckham Limited (VBL) saw a 17% sales rise, suggesting that the business looks set to break even in the medium term. Let’s face it, Beckham has the kind of financial security that alludes most aspiring designers and can make all ideas come to life, yet she has been underestimated and faced skepticism since she announced embarking upon fashion a decade ago - you have to admire her sheer perseverance and mastery of reinvention. With huge appeal amongst fellow celebs (everyone who’s anyone has
worn her clothing items, from the Jenners to the British royal family) and VBL now boasts 400 stores in over 50 countries. The star recently collaborated with sportswear giant Reebok, partnered up with auction house Sotheby’s for their Old Masters sale and just gave her second show at London Fashion Week with her entire family in the front row. The woman means business. So, in high anticipation of the beauty range, we look back at a selection of her memorable looks… p.59
1. ‘Posh’ It was the look that caught the attention of a young David Beckham and the rest is showbiz history. As Posh Spice, a then ‘Victoria Adams’ stood out as the best-looking and chicest member of the iconic girl group. Fuller-faced in those days and heavy on the brown lipliner (outside the natural lip line), the eyebrows were thin and the eye makeup smoky. Hair was worn in a sleek bob and never out of place, whilst clothes were classic and usually black. 2. High Glamour Flash forward to 2004 and the Beckhams had undergone a style makeover, often coordinating for the red carpet. Her style around this period was indicative of her love for luxury but much more dazzling back then. Red lips and Bordeaux nails make for a bold look when teamed with the corset, whilst the blonde highlights lift her features. The glamour was complete with a sunkissed tan. 3. Queen of the WAGs The bag, the glasses, the hair – back in 2006, all were oversized. By this time, the signature pout had taken force and high maintenance was key. 4. Back to ‘Posh’: Reinvention takes hold A few years later, VB had big ideas. Desiring to be taken seriously in fashion, her look had matured. Returning to her natural dark brown hair color, in keeping with the fuller eyebrow trend of the time, Beckham had grown hers out
p.60
resulting in a more youthful appearance. The eye makeup is heavy but works well when paired with a creamy, nude lip whilst the skin looks fresh and effectively highlighted creating the illusion of fuller cheeks. 5. Royal Wedding No. 2 Looking elegant and at ease with her style, the simple, low ponytail with subtle makeup looks beautiful and appropriate for the occasion. Beckham’s features don’t require too much makeup and the few tweaks she has made to her beauty routine have opened up her eyes and created a softer appearance. 6. Today She’s found her winning look. Turning 45 this year, Beckham actually looks younger than she did over a decade ago. Considering she used to suffer from acne, her access to great products has revolutionized her skin which appears dewy and at times luminous. She continues to opt for a nude lip with a very subtle lining, whilst the beige eyeliner widens her eyes, further accentuated by the fuller, slightly arched brows. VB clearly knows what works for her face after years of reinvention – let’s see what she has to share in future.
AMARA.COM Receive £20 off your first visit
Photography Tim Thiel
Style Susi Bauer
Model Johanna c/o M4 Models
Makeup Kerstin Hajdu using Lancome & DysonHair
Blouse Bambah | Necklace Chanel
Hat Gucci | Hoops Jennifer Fisher | Cuff Saskia Diez
Earring Acne Studios
Earring & Ring Chanel
Pullover Victoria, Victoria Beckham | Earring Y/Project
NEWLOOK.COM
Editor’s letter
And just like that, the Fall/ Winter 2019 runway season ended. In a whirlwind, it created another new batch of memorable fashion moments that impacted and inspired us all. Case in point: Christy Turlington returning to the runway after a two-decade absence for Marc Jacobs’ NYFW show. An appearance by Grace Jones for Tommy Hilfiger in Paris. Or then, Max Mara quoting Linda Evangelista in regards to their glamorous collection. Not to mention the fact that baby-Cindy, Kaia Gerber, was pretty much everywhere. Yes, there was the unmistakable scent of nostalgia in the air, largely evoked too by the garments themselves. We witnessed rehashing of seventies (Celine. Michael Kors), eighties (Max Mara) and nineties (Philosophy) styles with modern twists, as well as covetable collections from new and emerging talents. However, we have to address the main talking point amongst fashion folks that arrived like a thunderbolt on the opening day of MFW; the passing of Karl Lagerfeld. We grieved, reminisced upon his work and watched in anticipation as the flow of tributes poured in. All eyes were of course on Fendi and then Chanel who presented their shows as emotions ran high. Chanel’s snow-covered runway in Paris was undoubtedly the cherry on the cake of all of them – a stunning set, major stars and dear friends of the deceased designer out in full force and above all, an exceptionally beautiful and wholesome collection. A true Winter Wonderland. As we mourn what’s lost, we also look toward the future and continue to live in the moment with the excitement of shopping for the latest trends and putting together our wardrobe for the Fall. Spoilt for choice, we’ve selected ten of our predictions for the top trends that stood out that bit more:
FALL2019
TRENDS by Alys Jackman - continue to page 16 Here: Rebecca Minkoff backstage by Ashley Gallerani Opposite page, from up left: Emilio Pucci, Marni by Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Cushnie and Tadashi Shoji by Ashley Gallerani, Oscar de la Renta by Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
PLEATED SKIRTS Whether sparkling, metallic or with ruffles, pleated skirts never really left the trend arena and if you still don’t own one yet, now’s the time. A one-color, mid-length can be adapted to day or night time occasions on a practical level, yet it was the flowing, sheer and shiny skirts at the Fendi show that were a particular highlight.
ASYMMETRICAL NECKLINES Oscar de la Renta, Cushnie and Rosie Assoulin were just a few that provided that off-the-shoulder seductive look and proved that showing that small area of skin around the collar bones can be provocative, and unequivocally glamorous.
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Editor’s letter
SHOULDER PADS
Whilst shoulder pads were once considered old-fashioned, the fashion weeks indicated a modern revival of the 1980s trend is to come. Max Mara brought them out during MFW where they featured on their killer coats and well-cut suits; an attitude-packed ode to power dressing that proved no one does it better. Typically masculine clothes with strong and striking shoulders were also seen for Balmain and Saint Laurent, juxtaposed with femininity and elegant sensuality.
Dolce & Gabbana (up) and Saint Laurent (right, model Kaia Gerber) by Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
PLAID All of the fashion weeks featured updated versions of the classic plaid look – that’s right, the pattern is not just for Scottish men or schoolgirls under the age of ten. Amongst the many and most notable looks were Christian Dior and Victoria Beckham, the latter of which undoubtedly offered up her best collection to date in London. In Paris, Dior demonstrated that the print can be versatile and has appeal across generations. Dior (left) by Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Lanvin (right) by Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com p.74
CAPES Is there anything more elegant and dramatic than a sweeping cape? You may not have to be a superhero to wear one, but they definitely add a dramatic dash of regality to any outfit. MFW shows indicated that capes look set to become a huge trend this year, taking the look a step further on from the oversized scarves that were so popular in Fall 2018. Dolce & Gabbana showcased sumptuous and luxurious capes worthy of royalty whilst Max Mara’s were appropriate for high-end business attire infused with comfortability. Prada favored lace whilst a more laid-back, poncho-like look was showed off by Missoni.
Max Mara (right) Missoni (left) by Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
STRIKING RED Whilst orange was a hit during NYFW, it was the show-stopping reds that caught our eye. Let’s talk Emporio; the collection at MFW incorporated a bold color palette and a lineup of varying red evening dresses with much desirability - the brand back at it’s best. At Balenciaga’s show there was something for everyone including a head-turning sharp, red suit which also adhered to the strong-shoulders trend we’ve been noting (not on this list). Burberry for the most part stuck to it’s usual beige, camel and taupe colors but the pops of red were vivid and distinct. Burberry (right) by Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Emporio Armani (left) by Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
Editor’s letter
WAIST CINCHER BELTS
It’s common knowledge that this year, femininity is back in a big way; get ready to accentuate the waists, girls, as the next season’s belts are set to be narrow and strategically placed. Over in New York, Longchamp delivered a stunning show packed with Parisian attitude; lace teamed with a belt has never looked better. Matched with short skirts, the belts shaped the body in the best possible way. Tibi also used the waist belt to break up and embellish minimalist looks whilst in Paris, Chanel included the iconic CC-logo on theirs. Longchamp (left) by Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Rebecca Minkof (right) by Ashley Gallerani
FORMAL PUFFER Both chic and warm, the puffer coats that featured on the runways reminded us that Winter can be just as sexy as Summer, if you dress for it right. Offering up the kind of coats that you’d want to keep on during a cocktail-party were Christian Siriano, Givenchy and Brandon Maxwell; eye-catching in such a way to make your presence felt and announce your arrival before even uttering a word.
Givenchy (left) by Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Brandon Maxwell (right) by Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com p.76
ANIMAL PRINTS Leopard print will forever be a staple in our closets, but it looks like this is the year of the zebra! A range of animal prints were everywhere to be seen, but it was the emphasis on the zebra that really stood out expect herds of them making their way through your cities later this year.
Proenza Schouler (left) by Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Bottega Veneta (right) by Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
NECK BOWS A bow tied around the neck can add a romantic touch or, in the case of Fendi, be highly dramatic. Traditionally seen as ladylike, a large neck bow is in fact a pièce de résistance that requires the right level of confidence and assurance that it meets well with the finished outfit. So despite the initial girly connotations, the bow perfectly matches well with the recurring theme of power dressing that showed up during the fashion weeks as it requires a strong woman to pull it off. See MSGM, Etro and one of our current favorites, Redemption. Fendi (right) Redemption (left) by Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Chameleon
ShAUGHNESSY
Photography, Production, Art Direction Les Mijotés Model Shaughnessy Brown c/o New York Models interviewed by Eleonora Moneta Style Bárbara Vélez Makeup Victor Noble Hair Style Amy Farid c/o Honey Artists Set Design Izzy Garcia Location DRIFT Studios NYC
What is fashion? For many it is unbridled luxury combined with glitter and precious objects; but it can also be synonymous with changes and expression of oneself. Shaughnessy Brown knows it well. Born in 1994, the young Shaughness, fascinated by the world of entertainment and catwalks, decided at the age of 15 to leave the hot Florida and move to the chaotic New York to pursue her dream. Her charm as a girl next door did not pass. She began to collaborate with several designers, taking her first photo shoots, including an editorial for Vogue Italia. Shaughnessy was realizing her dream, but her true nature was still hidden behind long brown hair. It was from the hair that her change started, the long hair made room for a neat little ‘70s helmet, a total black wardrobe and a collection of studded chokers and accessories. The new look so different from the previous
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one made Shaughnessy even safer and more determined. This change was welcomed also in the fashion industry, so that Alessandro Michele chose her for the Gucci fashion show in 2016, during the New York Fashion Week. This great opportunity opened great travels and experiences to Shaughnessy. She collaborated on a project with Depeche Mode and even helped Rodarte to celebrate his tenth anniversary walking down his fall/winter 2016 catwalk. “I think it’s about being the person you are,” says Shaughnessy about her explosive success. Excited to have found herself, she faces life with light heartedness but also a lot of ambition. Fun, fresh and full of eccentric charm is also perceived in the shots made for LATEST. With an elegant yet modern style, Shaughnessy decided to show her artistic maturity combined with a strong personality.
All the way from sunny Florida to hectic heart of New York City, how did you deal with this change? Needed a way out in that period, and when I really thought to move this opportunity presented itself, so I went all in. Have you always dreamt to be a model? Never a dream to model’, but an alternative way I saw this was an opportunity to stand for myself, collaborate and create characters of who I am. Always wanted to be a part of the creation process. I have the feeling that through clothing and my art drawings I can look at the world and style from a new point of view, a never seen before ones. If you did not have this opportunity in the fashion world, what would you liked to do? Traveling the world regardless, continuing studying art therapy and creating what I feel right. A trivial question, but from a particular personality like yours we expect an equally unusual answer. What is fashion for you? How do you feel it? Fashion I believe is confidence and being fearless in whatever you put yourself in
wearing. Whether top designer, or articles put together sparingly by various cheap stores, is an external expression of ourselves. So own it! “Black is such a happy colour”, is black just a colour or a way of life for you? Black can be an expression, it’s the design and pieces you put together to make it your own. Through color, expression can come in many forms. How do you live changes? Do they scare you or are you fascinated? The only thing that’s constant is change, so it fascinates me the most. I’ve learned the best way to live through it to constantly move and evolve while holding down your personal morals and mindset to keep you grounded. Like any model, travel is not lacking in your life. What can you not give up on your travels? Authentic collaborations with people from all around the world - and endless culture, food and experiences along the way that present themselves through my trips for work. No schooling would have given me that experience.
Opening and on Cover: One shoulder dress 16Arlington |Sunglasses Retrosuperfuture | Jewelry Reigning G Here: White shirt dress Alessandro Trincone | Black leather sandal from Jacquemus | Sunglasses Retrospuerfuture p.80
Terra wool blazer and pants Datura | Shoes Jacquemus | Hook earrings Mary MacGilli Opposite: Body suit and coat Viktoria Tisza | Multi slit sateen maxi skirt 3.1 Phillip Lim | Black leather sandal Jacquemus
Here & Back Cover: Green dress coat Nanushka | Yellow gloves Thomasine | Mules Cult Gaia Opposite: Yellow suit Veronica Beard | Acrylic tote Cult Gaia | Leather and Stretch-knit ankle boots Ellery
Silver dress 3.1 Phillip Lim | Suede green mules By Far Opposite: Clear Raincoat Rains | Green tights Calzedonia | High texas boots Ganni
ACCESSORIES TRIUMPH by Marta Forgione
B
eing “fashionable” also means being interested in details. So, what better triumph for accessories than to show them during fashion weeks? A sea of people poured into the street in the most disparate looks; extreme eccentricity or careful search for a modern elegance, all super paparazzato by the many photographers who crowd around the locations of the various shows, hoping to shoot the celebrities. It’s here that the ring, the sunglasses, the signed micro handbags will have the right exposure compared to the normality in which they maybe can go unnoticed. And if we think of the importance of street style in the search for future trends by brands and companies, it is clear why it is so fundamental for a fashion lover to follow not only fashion shows during fashion weeks but also all what happens in the streets.
Street style New York, Paris fashion weeks up to page 91 by Ashley Gallerani & Andee Maher
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Chanel show: down, left: Anna dello Russo
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C
argo Comeback:
A CASE OF COUNTERCULTURE
Cargo pants have long been on the fashion horizon, but they have officially returned to the runway from their late 90s hiatus. In the case of the cargo, however, the trend-setting designers were late to the craze. A number of brands like Urban Outfitters and I Am Gia have been stocking these trousers for quite some time and celebrities like the Kardashian/Jenner family have already been seen working this trend in candid paparazzi photos. In fact, the cargo comeback is the perfect example of how streetwear and skate culture have gone from the bottom up to the highs of fashion. Cargo pants were undeniably an unappealing concept just a few short year ago; they were to be worn camping or on a construction site, but nowhere else.
quest to be unique and to stand out, cargo pants have become trendy and widespread.
However, what seen on the runway have been revised, edited and tailored to high fashion standards. There are not your uncle’s cargo pants. Ganni’s Spring/Summer 2019 show, for example, showed multiple variations such as colour blocked, quilted and tie-dyed pants for a camper-aesthetic in a city girl version who’s reaching for their wallets. Bella Hadid wore a hot pink three-quarter length pant for Prabal Gurung’s show and Jonathan Simkhai also offered one in white. Ralph Lauren was also one of many brands who went for fitted pants, surprising many with their interest in utility trousers. With the influx of fashion influencers and celebrity style So how did they come back in fashion? Well, like icons, it seems fashion week has met its match. any good counterculture getup, it came from Mini fashion revolutions have always come from subcultures of fashion. Opposing the mainstream counterculture fashion and to be truly up-to-date fashion of skinny jeans and Levi’s, cargo pants you have to look at what the greater trends in were made popular by street fashion: people who society to understand the rise and fall of various still remembered the 90s hip-hop scene and trends. Just as the British working class made Dr skaters who saw their clothing as an opposition Martens a fashion statement, street to high fashion. The skateboard company Thrasher culture has made cargo pants cool again. became one of the most copied brand logos in So collect all your keys, sunglasses, wallets and fashion because they represented the incrowd as phone chargers because these trendy trousers well as the outcasts. Now it seems cargo pants have us swooning in pocket-envy have become a similar symbol in fashion. In the
– for now at least.
by Nina Hanz
Fendi SS19 Gigi Hadid, Ph. Kim Weston Arnold
Prabal Gurung SS19 Bella Hadid, Ph. Luca Tombolini
Ganni SS19
Ganni SS19
All Photos Courtesy of Indigital.tv
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Makeup, hair style Patryk Nadolny
Photography Piotr Krawczyk
Model Roksana c/o More Models Movement Director Michał Gerlach Post production EdgeCat Studio
Style Kasia Jabłońska
boring office
Opening: Shoes Dsquared2 | Jacket Maison Margiela | Roll-neck Balenciaga | Pants Balenciaga Here: Shoes Vetements | Pants Dsquared2 | Body Suit Maison Margiela | Sunglasses Moschino
Dress Givenchy | Shoes Balenciaga | Necklace Versace Opposite: Dress Balmain | Shoes Balmain | Earrings Isabel Marant
Pants Balmain | Roll-neck Balmain | Pekad-cap Dior
Shoes Vetements| Pants Dsquared2 Opposite: Pants MM6 | Dress Vetements | Sunglasses Dior
Sunglasses Givenchy | Jacket Acne
BIMBAYLOLA.COM
The collection is available from 11.00 of February 15th
VERSACE: THE KITH’S NEW CHALLENGE by Eleonora Moneta
The most awaiting capsule collection, for this February 2019, is the collaboration between Versace and Kith, the hype retailer of the moment. After Adidas, Ugg and Coca cola, Kith marks his first project in the field of luxury fashion, announcing Kith x Versace. The iconic baroque prints of the Italian Maison have been reinvented in the theme of streetwear: bomber jackets, sweaters and sweatshirts, but also elegant jackets and shirts to satisfy any type of customer. Kith managed the projects, while Versace collected fabrics. Nylon, velvet, silk and fleece are not lacking in the items offered. The collaboration, half tailored and half sporty, includes not only clothing but also a careful selection of accessories such as: ski boots, medallions and caps with visor, along with the theme of the capsule. For the occasion, the iconic Medusa logo of the maison Versace has also been reinterpreted alongside the word “KITH”.
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CAMPAIGN Model Lucky Blue Smith Photography Pierre Toussaint Styling Ronnie Fieg
Kith x Versace provides for men and women cloths. For this reason, the Maison has decided to tape two cool-guys-of-the-moment: Bella Hadid and Lucky Blue Smith. Bella, the most influential girl in the world of international fashion, presents several looks for the collection. Made by photographer Pierre Toussaint, the campaign shows Bella Hadid wearing various pieces of collaboration: a stunning velvet suit, a pair of bracelets and leggings in two pieces of Versace and one in gold and black. For menswear, the model and influencer wears a mismatched suit with the Medusa logo printed and a denim jacket with the Versace logo on the back. Over 100 are still available for the mashup, from men’s and women’s fashion to accessories and footwear. The collection is available from 11.00 of February 15th, both for him and for her, on the kith.com online page, or in all Kith stores. The capsule will also be available at some international Versace flagship stores.
CAMPAIGN Model Bella Hadid Photographer Pierre Toussaint Stylist Clare Byrne
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Photography & Post Production Slavica Veselinovic​ Style Angelina Lepper Model Nicole Gregorczuk c/o Women Management Milano Makeup, hair style Cinzia Moioli
Opening: Dress Bartolotto&Martorana | Shoes Casadei | Tights Oroblu | Earrings Sharra Pagano Here: Corset La Perla| Pants Vicolo Opposite: Jumpsuit Compagnia Italiana | Bag Paula Cademartori | Shoes Anteprima | Earrings Natalia Criado
Here and Opposite: Suit Compagnia Italiana | Top La Perla | Shoes Casadei | Ring Sharra Pagano
Dress Fabiana Ferri | Tights Oroblu | Shoes Casadei | Earrings Sharra Pagano Opposite: Corset La Perla | Pants Vicolo
Shirt Bartolotto&Martorana | Pants Twinset | Shoes Paula Cademartori | Rings Sharra Pagano Opposite: Top and pants Iceberg | Shoes Casadei
Jumpsuit and coat Anteprima | Shoes Giuseppe Zanotti | Necklace Sharra Pagano
Body Tezenis| Shoes Giuseppe Zanotti Opposite: Dress Anteprima | Shoes Casadei | Bag Trussardi
THE CONTEMPORARIES OF FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY
by Gaétane Auffret
Looking for inspiration? Do not forget their names
JACK WATERLOT
He was born in Paris with art in his blood thanks to his painter mother and his set designer father. He grew up documenting his family travels, photographing people, places and cultures. Now based in New York, his knowledge of fashion from living in the Parisian fashion hub helped him become one of the main contemporary photographer.
His work is now in magazines like Vogue, Elle, Interview and L’Officiel and he has photographed some of the top models in the world including Behati Prinsloo, Missy Rayder, Heidi Mount, Noah Mills, and Willy Cartier. He also did some commercial shoots for brands like Gucci, Tom Ford and Roberto Cavalli.
“Vogue, Elle, Interview and L’Officiel”
Emily DiDonato by Jack Waterlot for Vogue Arabia Jan 2019 p.123
INEZ AND VINOODH
Lady Gaga by Inez and Vinoodh
are an Amsterdam-based couple who gained their fame from their collaboration with Björk in the 2000s and Lady Gaga a few years later. From the beginning, their outstanding style of smooth and unrealistic bodies made quite the impression. Their cover of The Face in partnership with Véronique Leroy was a real symbol of their career took off. They started working more
regularly for Vogue Paris in 2009 with the support of Carine Roitfield, as well as other International Vogue publications, American Vanity Fair, Harper’s Bazaar or Interview. The duo also caught the attention of numerous independent magazines like Purple, Visionaire, I-D, and Another Magazine. In 2007, the couple was asked to shoot the Pirelli calendar.
“VANITY FAIR, INTERVIEW, AND HARPER’S BAZAAR”
KARIM SADLI
is a photographer born and raised in Paris. After a major in literature at La Sorbonne, Sadli moved to London to study photography at London College of Communication. Sadli’s photographs have been featured in Vogue Paris, British Vogue, American Vogue, W Magazine, i-D, T Magazine, The Gentlewoman and Fantastic Man.
He mastered the art of black and white portraits with French icons like Vanessa Paradis and Charlotte Gainsbourg behind his lense. His first milestone was most definitely shooting Prada Linea Rossa S/S19 campaign. His advertising clients currently include Dior, Jil Sander, Givenchy, Balmain and Isabel Marant.
“Vogue, FANTASTIC MAN AND W MAGAZINE”
Fei Fei Sun by Karim Sadli for British Vogue March 2019
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WILLY VANDERPERRE
“LOVE, W MAGAZINE, AND ANOTHER MAN”
Calvin Klein FW18 campaign by Willy Vanderperre
is a Belgian photographer who studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts before shifting his focus on photography. His link with the Belgian Art school connected him with his now closest collaborators: Raf Simons, Olivier Rizzo and Peter Philips. He is a regular contributor to the most coveted fashion magazines
such as Love, W Magazine, AnOther Magazine, Another Man, Vogue Hommes International and American Vogue. Advertising wise, his portfolio includes names such as Raf Simons, Christian Dior, Dior Homme, Jil Sander and Prada. He recently came out with a first book called «635,» based on his Instagram posts.
Vanderperre’s just broadened his range of skills becoming a film director with a movie taking place at London’s Institute of Contemporary Art named «Naked Heartland». An accompanying book, described as «a concentration of stills from the film,» was also released.
BENNY HORNE
“VOGUE, GQ, GLAMOUR AND HARPER’S BAZAAR”
is an Australian photographer now based in New York. Horne stepped his first foot in fashion photography by assisting A-list photographer Steven Klein. Rapidly, he developed a recognizable personal style close to his roots: an elegance quite simple and young paired with a certain stylish candidness. The colors stick to a soft palette and nature appears
a lot in his work. The Aussie’s editorials and fashion portraits appeared in Vogue editions for Russia, Turkey, China and Australia, as well as magazines like GQ, Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar and Dazed and Confused. Advertisingwise, his name is linked to brands such as Zimmerman, Tommy Hilfiger, H&M, Stefanel or Iceberg.
Zimmermann Resort Swim 2019 by Benny Horne
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GLOSSY WES T Photography Paulina Wesolowska & Lukasz Zylka Style Anna Akincza Model Julita Formella c/o Rebel Models Makeup, hair style Marcin Kulak Photography assistant Mateusz StefanowskiS
Shirt Self Love Skirt Zara Shoes Epuzer Earrings H&M Vest Dolce & Gabbana
Here, opposite: Jumpsuit Epuzer Earrings UterqĂźe
Jacket Epuzer Trousers H&M Shoes Diesel Opposite: Dress Epuzer Vest Alexander McQueen Shoes Rita Krzysiek
Body Diesel Coat Kas Kryst Earrings H&M Opposite: Coat Kas Kryst Shoes Rita Krzysiek
Dress Gosia Baczyńska Gloves Hugo Boss Hat Mango Opposite: Jacket Philo New York Trousers Emilio Pucci
As We Mourn the Loss of Karl Lagerfeld, what’s next for the brands he left BEHIND?
by Alys Jackman
I
t was 19th February, 2019; the first day of proceedings for Milan Fashion Week, the most glamorous of all: another week in which established and emerging members of the fashion industry from all over the globe had come to unite... but the day soon become tinged with sadness. After dominating high fashion for over half a century, the iconic couturier Karl Lagerfeld, whose name is synonymous with Chanel, had passed away that morning at the age of 85.
Only a week after he made headlines and when speculations started fueling about his health due to missing Chanel’s haute couture shows in Paris (it was his first absence in recent memory), Karl had tapped powerhouse editorin-chief of CR Fashion Book and style icon, Carine Roitfeld, to team up as a permanent collaborator for his namesake brand. Having previously collaborated on the Karl Lagerfeld for H&M line way back in 2004 with much success, and also The Little Black Jacket, it’s clear that he had a great respect for his longtime friend. Through a company announcement, the fashion veteran stated, “[Carine Roitfeld] knows what she wants; she has a vision and she states her vision... She is actually what she seems to be; she matches her image, she fits in her universe, and she is a perfect match for Karl Lagerfeld.”
As with every legend, Karl had a signature look that he stuck to throughout the years. His skinny black suits, the ponytail, the glasses – in an age rife with new talent, he was one of the enduring classics. The Chanel Flap Bag of designers. Inimitable, the German-born designer had been the creative force behind the revival of the brand (nearly in extinction back in the eighties). Whilst the fashion house has a huge void to fill without him, they’ve already named Virginie Viard as his successor. Though relatively unknown, she has in fact been Lagerfeld’s right-hand woman for more than thirty years and Chanel’s creative studio director – seemingly through no coincidence he had already begun introducing her to the public in recent months. Carine Roitfeld & Karl by Venturelli/WireImage Opposite page: Lagerfeld’s sketch for Roitfeld
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Karl with his beloved Choupette
For those less familiar with the work of Carine, she is in essence fashion royalty - the epitome of Parisian chic. The former editor-in-chief of French Vogue broke into the industry as a model and went on to work as a muse and consultant for Yves Saint Laurent and Tom Ford (then Creative Director for Gucci) for many years. As a stylist she created memorable, smoldering campaigns working alongside Mario Testino as one half of a photographic dream team. And, still rocking that edgy-bombshell style at 60 years old (think pencil skirts and Alaia stilettos), is a reminder that the French just do it better. The new partnership was to be unveiled with “The Edit by Carine Roitfeld” in September, comprising of “essential pieces” selected from the designer’s autumn/winter 2019 collection. We await further announcement. Fendi have released a heartfelt statement citing Karl’s “ability to rejuvenate at all times, to taste
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all the arts, to not overlook any style, along with a persistent refusal to turn to his past.” Silvia Venturini Fendi, who appeared deeply affected, continued, “I will miss him deeply and always carry with me the memories of our days together”. His last collection for the brand will be shown on Thursday in Milan. As for Choupette? Whilst it’s unclear who she’ll live with, we’re sure she’ll be in good hands the photogenic cat is said to have made several million from modeling and is set to inherit some of Lagerfeld’s fortune. Adored by many, whilst for others he was deliciously offensive, we’re sure to expect a series of tributes and announcements in the weeks to follow. In a sea of unforgettable words from a man who shaped fashion legacy, let’s not forget this: “Fashion does not have to prove that it is serious. It is the proof that intelligent frivolity can be something creative and positive.”
DOROTHYPERKINS.COM
NEOPLASTICISM
Composition No. III, with Red, Blue, Yellow, and Black (1929) sold for $50.6 million, twice its high estimate of $25 million. It set a new record for the artist
T
he term “De Stijl” in Dutch means “style”. Known also as Neoplasticism, we are talking about an artistic trend that began in the Netherlands in 1917 with a manifesto, De Stijl precisely, published by Piet Mondrian and Theo van Doesburg to describe their art which included a search for abstraction, geometry and essentiality. Mondrian’s paintings, in his continuous search for balance and simplicity, actually hide a great job towards his idea of perfection, far from being a fast and “simple” as it is often described by those who do not appreciate very much ‘modern Art’. It is precisely Mondrian who has inspired team of the next editorial. A search for lines, voids, balance, color, with an architectural rendering.
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H A R M O N I C Disharmony PHOTOGRAPHY & ART DIRECTION ALESSANDRO ESPOSITO STYLE & CREATIVE DIRECTION VERONICA BERGAMINI MAKEUP BARBARA BONAZZA USING MACCOSMETICS HAIR STYLE MATTEO BARTOLINI c/o FREELANCER AGENCY USING DYSONAIR MODELS CHIARA PINO c/o BRAVE MODEL EVA CAVECCHI c/o WONDERWALL MODEL VIOLETTA BOGDANOVA c/o BRAVE MODEL PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT GIORGOS IOANNIDIS STYLE ASSISTANT GIADA RESTELLI CASTING DIRECTION MONICA BERNACCHI c/o LINE UP
Opening: Bomber & Skirt PMI by Liene Grinberga | Glove Dea Pagana | Foulard Essere Style Minidress Dea Pagana | Stockings Pierre Mantoux | Bag Vic MatiĂŠ | Shoes Salvatore Ferragamo Here: Foulard & Sabot Salvatore Ferragamo | Jumpsuit PMI by Liene Grinberga | Gilet Annalisa Baldini Milano Earrings Milano Bijoux | Stockings Calzedonia
Front: Total Look Ermanno Scervino | Boots PMI by Liene Grinberga | Earrings Vintage Back: Dress Chromosome6 | Minidress Annalisa Baldini Milano | Earrings Vintage | Boots Vic MatiĂŠ Opposite: Left: Jacket Yves Saint Laurent by Flower Vintage Room | Belt Blumarine | Jumpsuit Annalisa Baldini Milano | Latex Jacket Dea Pagana Shoes Beatrice B | Right: Suit Chromosome6 | Dress Dea Pagana | Belt & Cuissard Salvatore Ferragamo | Stockings Caldezonia
Left: Shirt Chromosome6 | Bomber Cancellato | Skirt Yves Saint Laurent 80s by Flower Vintage Room | Earrings Cristina Ramella Right & Opposite: Tailleur Roberta Biagi | Minidress Greta Boldini | Pants Yezael by Angelo Cruciani | Bag Salvatore Ferragamo | Shoes Baldinini
Hat Montegallo | Shirt Chromosome6 | Jacket Vintage 80s by Flower Vintage Room Stockings Pierre Mantoux | Bum Bag OOF | Shoes Baldinini Opposite: Swim Cap Dea Pagana | Foulard Essere Style | Minidress Dea Pagana | Jacket Celine 80s by Flower Vintage Room Belt Salvatore Ferragamo | Stockings Calzedonia | Shoes Beatrice B | Bag Daphne Couture
Left: Coat OOF | Headband Bluetiful Middle: Dress Filippo Laterza | Headband Bluetiful | Jacket American Vintage | Stockings Calzedonia | Ring Cristina Ramella Right: Jacket Les Copains | Dress Flower Vintage Room | Earrings Milano Bijoux | Headband Bluetiful Opposite: Left: Dress & Cuissardes Chromosome6 | Stockings Calzedonia Middle: Dress & Cuissardes Chromosome6 | Stockings Calzedonia | Sabot Salvatore Ferragamo Right: Dress Chromosome6 | Stockings & Top Pierre Mantoux | Sabot Salvatore Ferragamo
DESIGNER, WHAT A PASSION! by Eleonora Moneta
The fashion industry opens its doors to actresses, singers and television stars. Many “made in the USA� showbiz have decided to create exclusive collections of clothing, but not only. The First was Gwen Stefani, singer and mother of three children, in 2003 created L.A.M.B, an acronym in homage to the debut of her album Love. Angel. Music. Baby. The line includes accessories such as: bags, watches, perfumes and shoes. Following her way a few years later the two most famous blonde twins, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, launched The Row. Born in New York,
1.
FROM POP STAR TO FASHION DESIGNER 1. Rihanna, in a Time cover 2. Gwen Stefani, Lamb-Fashion Week 3. Victoria Beckham, AW18/19 Womenwear. 2.
3. © PixelFormula
the clothing line initially featured 7 garments. Three years after TheRow’s success, the two famous New York twins launched Elizabeth and James, names of the two Olsen brothers. The label distinguished itself compared to the first for the decidedly cheaper cost of accessories and garments. From pop star to fashion designer, it is the route that Victoria Beckham travelled. The famous Spice Girl in 2008 created Victoria by Victoria Beckham, shown during the New York fashion week, immediately enjoyed the success hoped for, so much so that a single-brand store was opened in the heart of London. Do you love sports and want to feel comfortable but at the same time fashionable? Beyoncé thought of you! The Ivy Prank brand, launched in 2016, has been very successful, not only for the singer’s fans but also for the streetwear style that is the common thread for the entire collection. Accessories, children’s and pet’s clothings, is what Ellen DeGeneres thought, in creating her
collection in 2015. The reason for her choice? Donate part of the benefits to the #BeKindToElephants campaign. But women are not alone in experiencing the world of creation and design. Kanye West in 2015 has designed his first line with the collaboration of Adidas. The debut of the collection coincided with the release of his latest album, The Life of Pablo. The question is: is fashion design a marketing strategy or a real passion? Last but not least, Rihanna, who in 2018 during New York Fashion Week, created a real show showing her Savage x Fenty collection. The line of clothing and lingerie celebrates women in all their shapes and sizes, going against the mainstream of traditional fashion. The fusion between fashion, cinema and music will surely reserve surprises in the future. We just have to wait for another creative idea of our
– beloved benjamins.
p.155
ESCAPE Photography Domenico Petralia c/o ProductionLink Production Passepartout4u srl Art Director & Style Joanna Gyamera Model Isabella Ridolfi c/o WhyNot models Hair Style Erisson Musella using Dyson and Morocanoil Makeup Rodrigo De Souza using Laura Mercier Assistants Fabio Massari, Michele Calderoni Post production Virgil Hritcu Special thanks to Johannes March
Opening: Shirt, Trousers and Jacket Nobi Talai | Shoes Racine Carrée Here: Dress A.TEODORO | Shoes Cédric Chalier | Opposite: Shirt, shorts Nobi Talai | Bag Magrì | Shoes Racine Carrée
Dress and bag CĂŠdric Chalier
Shirt and Leather jacket Ermanno Scervino Opposite: Shirt Nobi Talai | Trousers Archivio | Shoes Pollini
Trench and Shoes SSHEENA Opposite: Sleeveless Jacket and Dress Plan C | Belt Vintage | Shoes SSHEENA
Blazer and trousers Angelia Ami | Shoes SSHEENA
Bag MagrĂŹ Opposite: Blazer, trousers and shoes SSHEENA
Shoes Paloma Barcelรณ | Opposite: Dress - Krizia
courtesy of safarilodges.com
The Spirit of Campi ya Kanzi Awaken your senses to the real Africa Once is enough to be amazed by this gorgeous country, Africa will blow your mind! Living here means to understand and feel a colourful range of emotions with so many unique customs, values and nature life. Amongst images of freedom animals and hues of savannah, Campi ya Kanzi lodge is situated in a natural reserve at the foot of the legendary Chyulu Hills. A jewel: a luxury eco-resort, a model of economic and natural sustainability that has been turned into reality. Campi ya Kanzi is the kind of place that inspired Ernest Hemingway to write “Green Hills of Africa”.“All I wanted to do was get back to Africa. We had not left it, yet, but when I would wake in the night I would lie, listening, homesick for it already...”. Ernest Hemingway, Green Hills of Africa.
courtesy of safarilodges.com
is one of the top destinations around the world, not
with his family and has partnered with the Maasai
only creates a unique African safari experience for their
local community to create a joint venture getting a
guests, unlike any others, offering a memorable wildlife
vibe beyond space-time. A small luxury lodge based on
nature and authentic connection to the Maasai people
protecting the Maasai land in order to thrive in their
with the opportunity to spend blissful days in a
traditional lands and lifestyles. In 283,000 acres of
magical place. Once in Campi ya Kanzi, instantly we
wilderness where nature blends harmoniously with
realise to be surrounded by beautiful scenery, not only
exotic Italian style and where the key is the hospitality
a photographic, but also emotional, unforgettable
in the interest of respect for the environment. Kenya
views, a limitless space and primordial energy.
courtesy of maasai.com
Right here, Luca, Italian from Brescia, decided to live
Imagine yourself waking up early in the morning with
luxury safari. Enjoy your breakfast with sensational
the Kenyan tea aroma served by your personal Maasai
views of Kilimanjaro from the veranda, a huge area
assistant. Lose yourself in wild nature, Campi ya
with only lodge where you can find six Luxury Tented
Kanzi will offer first-century romantic safari
cottages and two Luxury suites, and countless local
experience, a refuge from the frenetic modern life
villages across the “Green Hills� of Hemingway at the
that combines the comforts and services of a 5-star
foot of Kilimanjaro.
p.173
courtesy of www.maasai.com
Campi ya Kanzi ensures the lodge co-exists harmoniously with not only the wildlife, but also with the local people, offering lovely views across the savannah and hills. Each of the tents consists of a large, traditional canvas safari tent, one-of-kind, furnished with canopy beds, leopard bedspreads, linen sheets, armchairs and pillows in Maasai fabrics for a distinct and decidedly authentic character, keeping in line with the eco-feel of the lodge.
Kenya is a vitamin for the body and soul Kenya is a vitamin for the body and soul , and in this
camp with local logs, leather colonial trunks, crystal
Garden of Eden which offers tranquility, sunsets and
glassware and chandeliers.Sit at dawn, sipping the scent
scents our imagination becomes one with the image.
of coffee with a Maasai guide atop a giant orange
Kenya is all this, it’s a state of mind that meets with
boulder on an elevated plateau in the Chyulu Hills,
giraffes in an elegant posture, lions in a proud gaze and
there is nowhere else that you would rather be. In front
antelopes in a sudden movement. Step back in time to
of you, eagles soaring and the sun, slowly rising and
the elegantly 30s simple safaris of Ernest Hemingway
brighting. Behind you, jungly cloud forests of
and Denys Finch Hatton, before first class flights and
Commiphora trees where intese purple orchids, flashes
infinity pools, explores enjoyed different kind of luxury.
of wild pink hibiscus and stars of white jasmine play peekaboo, and below miles of grassland in a luminously
In a breathtaking view there is nothing like waking up
green.
in the middle of the night to scratching on the outside
This is the Africa of your dreams: the air is scented with
of your tent, then hearing a growl. Then imagine
the moon-white flowers of wild magnolia, alive with
tracking elephants with a Maasai guide before
the sound of creatures, while shadows lengthen and
cozying up to the fire with a glass of fine wine and a
the night falls silently, the moon peep out and a trillion
view of Mount Kilimanjaro, eat a three-course dinner
stars light up the darkness. The feeling is
under sparkling constellations while Maasai performs
overwhelming.
in dances and songs around the campfire - and then
Kenya is a beautiful place and is full of charm; staying
finally, retire to your tent with a kerosene faint lamp
there is like being invited to an exclusive exotic party
and a warm Maasai blanket.
where you can savour spicy gin tonic in cut patterns tumblers in an elegant and relaxing atmosphere,
A tribute to a bygone era, a blend of old Africa and
where ethnic instruments, African percussions and
modern comfort in a pristine, timeless landscape. From
shakers add a classy touch to tribal fantasies.
every corner, the imposing backdrop of Mount
Visiting Campi ya Kanzi is not just about having a good,
Kilimanjaro provides a breathtaking view over the
relaxing time and a unique authentic experience. Its
rolling plains and acacia woodlands. Imagine the wild
roots goes much deeper, imagine yourself in a place of
African landscape that wakes up at dawn wrapped in a
wonderful natural beauty, where the mankind treat his
soft, purple light: birds are singing, zebras are snorting,
surroundings with absolute respect to the nature and
and the wind is whistling and you are in the middle
sustainable way of living, involving the local
of it all.
community; and you will get to know with a genuine and profound connection about the Maasai lifestyle,
The right place to get in touch with your soul. Simply
land and traditions.
amazing! Campi ya Kanzi under Antonella’s supervision, offers a creative Italian cuisine, with “km
I suggest to any reader of this piece a record listening,
0” fresh local ingredients, accompanied by a
specifically “La ragazza dalla pelle di luna” by Piero
wonderful selection of South African and Italian wines
Umiliani, 1972. An experiential journey, an
and is served in a cosy dining area that is open to the
invitation to follow colours, scents, flavours and vibes
incredible landscape. All this in a blend of colonial and
in a mysterious and pure Africa, far away from the
modern decor, with stonewalls, furniture made at the
modern civilisation. By Veronica Valdambrini
p.175
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