LATEST - August issue #13

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CONTENTS 38

Editor’s Letter 8 Resort 2020 Shows article 12 Limited Edition editorial 18 Must Have article 32 Be Yourself cover story 38 Last 5 years at Met Gala article 50 New Identity editorial 56 Custom-made, the future is tailoring article 64 Back in the Days editorial 70 So Rare editorial 80 Tête-à-tête with the Katy Perry’s make-up artist interview 88 Modern Lady beauty editorial 92 Green beauty products for summer article 98 Summer Vibe editorial 102 Behind the Scenes of Luxury brands article 112 This Must be the Place editorial 114 Limited Edition Accessories article 130 Beyond the Mask editorial 136 Exhibitions not to be missed article 149 Row Out editorial 150 Design inspired by Nature article 160 Static Emotions editorial 166 LVMH launch Aura platform for the products’ traceability article 174 Sea Food editorial 178 Costa Rica’s Paradise is called Hotel Punta Islita 190

COVER STORY Photography Patrick Schwalb Style Markus Galic Model Céline Bethmann c/o Munich Models wearing here Ted Baker Makeup Josie Martens c/o Bigoudi


EDITOR’S LETTER 18

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assword: Individualism. The refined and personal style becomes an imperative in the road towards uniqueness, and being able to feel special in a world now in series, where everything is standardised. In this regard they are going well the limited edition collections, the eco-sustainable collections and the “custom-made” take off again. The natural tendency of the human being is wanting to stand out and this is the theme of the issue, #beyourself will be your mantra and will guide you into an experience made of eccentricity, design of excellence, incredible artists of the star system, reminding you that you can choose the future. Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione

Marta Forgione


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Editor’s letter PRESIDENT, CHIEF EDITOR Marta Forgione martaforgioneph@gmail.com Raimondo Scintu, 78 street- 00173 Rome (Italy) CONTRIBUTORS FOR THIS ISSUE: LAYOUT Giuseppe Sindoni Laura Bobak Giulia Greco WRITERS Giulia Greco Ludovica Mucci Federica Caiazzo Veronica Valdambrini PHOTOGRAPHERS Patrick Schwalb, Christoph Klutsch Cristiano Miretti, Domenico Petralia Antoine Coquelet, Jessica Grossmann, Aldona Karczmarczyk, Martyna Galla Jacek Grabczewski, Olga Volkis, Sasha Tassilo Höchstetter AGENCIES INVOLVED Munich models, IMG models, TheFabbrica, Modelwerk Kathrin Hohberg, Bigoudi Tigers Management, ProductionLink Townsend London, Liganord Model plus Warsaw, Van Dorsen Artists Iconic Management, D’vision Uncover models, Kostromichova ADVERTISING adv.latest@gmail.com Rome Italy 2019 | p.iva 15126391000 | ROC registration n. 32682 Bi-monthly publication by LATEST srls unipersonale in February, April, June, August, October. Printed by Severn print, UK | for Italy by Facciotti s.n.c Distributed by Pineapple media LTD, UK price on website latestmagazine.net - print €15 - digital €4.5 Cover price: IT €15 UK £10


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Editor’s letter

Cruise Collections’ season 2020 ended and brought not only new trends but also social and cultural themes to reflect on. Fashion, as we know, is not limited to clothes and accessories, but is linked generally to the world around us, and for this reason it is never completely immune to the cultural, economic and political situation of the world in which we live. Dior Cruise collection took place in Marrakesh and had Africa as its main inspiration. The clothes, fabrics and accessories are a hymn to the culture of the continent and were made according to traditional craft techniques. In addition to being beautiful and precious, they remind us that meeting and acceptance make us stronger. That Miuccia Prada’s collections are always intellectual and committed is nothing new. Cruise 2020 is no exception and, through clean lines and simple colors, takes a stand against contemporary fashion. Prada does not scream, but sends subtle and polite messages, as rigorous as the Milan in which the brand was born and raised: enough exaggerations, exuberance and bad taste. “Less is more” is a principle we should try to find again.

RESORT 2020

SHOWS Words Giulia Greco - to page 16 Here and opposite: Max Mara cruise 2020, ph. Lucioni & Oberrauch c/o Gorunway.com /courtesy of Vogue Following pages (14-16): Giorgio Armani, Alberta Ferretti & Gucci cruise 2020, ph. Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com / courtesy of Vogue

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Chanel started its journey into a stormy sea, and it is difficult to clearly predict a harbor of arrival. The first collection without Karl Lagerfeld was greeted with a mixture of emotion and hope: what is now “past” must give space to something new. It is clear that the Maison is at a crossroad, we just have to wait and see how the future will be able to blend gently with tradition. Who do not change their canons is Louis Vuitton. The coherence and freshness of the collections gave the possibility to the designer Nicolas Ghesquière to remain faithful to his stylistic line and his main inspirations, all devoted to a technological and science fiction futurism. The show of Louis Vuitton projects us forward in time, experiencing the emotion of space age.


Max Mara. Max Mara presented its Cruise 2020 collection in the German capital city, and in particular in the Neues Museum. The location, which re-opened its doors only in 2009 after the damage suffered during the Second World War, provided a minimal and significant catwalk: a gray stone staircase, which left white paper to the models on the catwalk, giving it full prominence. On the other hand, the setting was also a visual metaphor for the Maison’s stylistic line, which makes straight and decisive lines, tone-over-tone power suites and references to the male wardrobe, elements of the uniform of the modern woman. The collection is, as usual, the quintessence of elegance: the colors are beige, gray and red, but the pure white of the finish dominates, in which the singer and actress Ute Lemper also showed. The tailored materials of the suits are combined with lighter and more precious fabrics, such as transparent cashmere and shiny fabric. Everything is embellished with 3D floral decorations and those that look like peacock feathers: the Max Mara woman is strong and decisive, but also sophisticated and able to play with her sensuality. The clothes are draped over the body and fit perfectly, forming sculpted folds. They are, in the forms, a reference to the ancient world, as well as the few and well-studied jewels. The collection is extremely rich and tactile, with an amazing beauty and cleanliness.

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Editor’s letter

Giorgio Armani. Giorgio Armani chose the Hyokeikan palace of the Tokyo museum complex for his first Cruise collection. The choice was particularly significant because it, first of all, underlines the bond that the brand has with the East and, secondly, the values on ​​ which it is based. As Japan lives in a situation of perfect balance between tradition and innovation, so Armani remains true to itself, declining fashions and trends according to its stylistic code. It is an island that, although in constant dialogue with the world around it, loves its independence. We find the natural elegance - not forced, which is the signature of Giorgio Armani, in this first Resort collection. Soft cuts, light and slippery materials that become more rigid and structured towards the end. The colours are those of the insular landscape of Japan: shades of blue and beige, and a touch of red tending to coral. The accessories give to Armani the space needed to have fun. Leather hats and suspenders, jewelry and brooches in tortoiseshell material and sustained dimensions, the corals meet large pearls in coloured wood and form exuberant necklaces. The devil is in details and Mr Armani has already figured this out for a long time. The end result is just a perfect amalgamation of class, nonchalance and cheeky touches. The Armani woman is in career, but she dreams about the fantastic summer cruise waiting for her.

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Giorgio Armani cruise 2020 show ph. Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com courtesy of Vogue


Alberta Ferretti. Alberta Ferretti has created an avant-garde collection like never before. Starting from the design, which gives shapes to the woman with new stylistic features, and a strong and decisive note that is new in Ferretti’s production. The inspiration comes from the sea and its peaceful coexistence, in the city of Montecarlo where the collection was presented, with the the human being’s creative spirit. Simple cut caban, silk polo and shorts, but also jumpsuits and floating dresses. Up to the fantastic mermaid dress of the ending, worn by the ethereal Elsa Holsk and made of luminous sequins and chiffon. The materials used are delicate, such as suede, silk and pastel denim, with a hint of fiery red leather. Day jackets and trousers are finished with metal eyelets that recall the marine world. But the process of creating the collection is also avant-garde, green and eco-sustainable. Ferretti has declared herself sensitive to climate and environmental problems. Fashion, which is one of the productive sectors most interested in environmental pollution, is also the best way to “educate” buyers about conscious consumption. The designer is aware that the journey is long and requires honesty and commitment from all parts of the whole chain, but her Cruise collection is certainly a bright starting point. The fashion house was awarded with the Ethical and Sustainable Award from the Montecarlo Fashion Week, which was entirely dedicated to the problem of sustainability and whose slogan was “Green is the new glam”.

Alberta Ferretti Cruise 2020 show ph. Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com courtesy of Vogue


Editor’s letter

Gucci. Alessandro Michele chose the Capitoline Museums in Rome to present his Cruise 2020. Rome is not only his hometown, but also the cradle of Western culture. And the creative director of Gucci, who has always nurtured culture and made it the basis of his work, hopes for a more conscious future. Not superficiality, not empty consumption in itself. Fashion is something deeper and a vast cultural background is needed to understand and handle it. Along with this subtle message, woven into the plot of the show and which appears clear only by collecting clues scattered here and there (the invitation in book, the set, the tattoos that recall the ancient world, the poetry of Verlaine at the entrance, etc), the collection invites you to reflect on another subject: personal freedom - of thought, expression and action. Above all, with freedom you can make what you want with your body, without being limited by imposed laws. The reflection obviously takes the moves from the references to the female reproductive system, which appears on clothes and jewels, and from the reintroduction of the anti-abortion laws in the US. For this reason the pastiche of style and different influences is mixed with a 70’s note that dominates the scene. Flair trousers, suede fringes and long, wavy hair. Coloured leather, checked prints, wide-brimmed hats and sequined turbans. But also aviator glasses and dangle earrings. The universe of Gucci is a boundless universe, in which everything finds ideally place. Free expression, as it was in the ancient pagan world, in which everything and everyone could live next to its opposite, creating unimaginable combinations, but no less beautiful.

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Gucci cruise 2020 show ph. Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com courtesy of Vogue


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imited Edition Photography SACHA TASSILO HÖCHSTETTER Style KONSTANTINOS GKOUMPETIS Model CLARA c/o TIGERS MANAGEMENT Makeup, Hair Style LENA GEHRIG c/o FAME AGENCY Assistant PHILIP HOFMANN



Opening: Dress Dimitri Belt Armani Jewelry Dolce&Gabbana Glasses Mykita Shoes Marcel Ostertag Here: Jacket Levis Dress Danny Reinke Shoes Gucci Opposite: Top Scotch&Soda Pants Emilio Pucci Shoes Christian Louboutin Earrings Maison Martin Margiela



Top Marina Hoermanseder Pants Marcel Ostertag Coat Drykorn via ZalandoSE Earrings Guess Opposite: Top Pugneth Dress, Gloves Dawid Tomaszewski Mules Yeezy Necklace Versace


Dress Stine Goya Skirt No21 Belt Dimitri Shoes Dolce&Gabbana Jewelry Swarovski Opposite: Belt Gucci Jacket Emilio Pucci Pants Marcel Ostertag Shoes Tommy Hilfiger




Total Look Marina Hoermanseder Shoes Alberto Guardiani Opposite: Hat Stetson x Levi’s Top Roberto Cavalli Glasses Etnia Barcelona Skirt Valentino



Suit Wrangler Corset Agent Provocateur Shoes, gloves Swarovski x Dawid Tomaszewski


Body Dolce&Gabbana vintage Coat, skirt Essentiell Antwerp Earrings Sabrina Dehoff Shoes Scotch&Soda Scarf Hermès Opposite: Corsage Marina Hoermanseder Pants Diane Fürstenberg Jewelry SIF Jacobs Bag Tosca Blu



must have CRUISE’20 words Giulia Greco

1.

LEATHER

If we live in a world of contrast and founded balances, nothing is better than match the rock and roll spirit of leather with natural colours and shaped accessories. Chanel teaches it to us, above others, bringing to the runway jumpsuits, skirts and pants in pastel colours, combined with soft and ultra feminine fabrics. The final look is impacting, without being too serious. To be even more cool we suggest you to chose a pair of eco friendly vegan leather by Nanushka. You won’t feel the difference, but the planet definitely will.

2.

3.

Goldsign ribbed Top €300 farfetch.com

Andy Wolf, sunglasses andy-wolf.com 1.Chanel cruise 2020 Runway show Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / gorunway.com 2. Nanushka The Mitsu leather pants €395 nanushka.com 3.Loewe leather handbag $2,890 net-a-porter.com


SOMETHING SHINES

1.

You need very little in order to shine. Not in special occasions only, a sparkling jacket can be your perfect partner from 9 to 5. Valentino had shiny materials and stones on organza, while Louis Vuitton liked to give light to jackets and accessories through luminose spots. Max Mara has a more sober attire and gives us a perfect glittery trench. A shiny jacket is the perfect option for summer, to be wore on a basic outfit with jeans, sneakers and the classic white t-shirt.

2.

3. Dorothee Schumacher blazer €750 mytheresa.com

1. Max Mara cruise 2020 Runway show Foto: Lucioni e Oberrauch / gorunway.com 2. Goldsign high waist jeans €395 mytheresa.com 3. Burberry Bum TB leather bag / € 990 mytheresa.com

Alexander McQueen oversize sneakers €395 alexandermcqueen.com

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LACE LACE BABY

1.

Lace is back on track, conquering garments and accessories. We have seen it in Gucci’s gloves, like a second skin on models, and we have seen it in the gorgeous Dior’s dresses. It could be macramè, crochet or sangallo, in pure white or in pastel colors. It creates inlays on the body. This is the perfect look for hot summer, but if you are afraid it is too bride-like don’t worry, we have the solution. You can match it with slave sandals and a matched hairband like the very famous Prada’s one. At the end you’ll look like a Persian princess.

2.

3.

Jacquemus Les sandales Pilotis €595 jacquemus.com

1.Dior cruise 2020 Runway show Photo: Filippo Fior / gorunway.com 2.Zimmermann dress €3,150 zimmermannwear.com 3.Strangelove NYC Eau de Parfum $475 net-a-porter.com

Prada satin headband €190 prada.com


OUT OF PATTERNS

1.

Since last winter fashion insiders love to play with patterns: they put two, three or even more together in the same look and they’re just perfect. Square and stripes? Why not! The only rule is to match colors and materials and there you have it. The bucket hat brings sea side perfume even during a day at the office, while Cult Gaia’s sculptured mules are amazing, because they remind us of nature and its element, which are the main inspirations for the brand. The final outfit is super fresh.

2.

3.

Madewell Striped cotton and voile top $81 net-a-porter.com

Cult Gaia leather mules € 325 mytheresa.com 1.Prada cruise 2020 Runway show Photo: Filippo Fior / gorunway.com 2. Gucci wool pants €890 mytheresa.com 3. Clyde Woven straw hat / $200 net-a-porter.com

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THE CAPE.

1.

Cape will be the main trend for autumn-winter 2020 season. Somewhere in between a wrapping scarf and shoulder shrug, but also in the longer version as a trench. We saw it on runways in many different declination: on lace dress, as Gucci’s, on sartorial suits and denim jackets. To match it is very easy and, even using it in a low key street outfit, like we do, it is still regal in shapes. We would love to wear it on black bike pants and with bold details, for a comfy and still cool outfit.

2.

3. Rokh, shorts €610 farfetch.com

Burberry, scarf €960 net-a-porter.com 1.Gucci cruise 2020 show Photo: Salvatore Dragone / gorunway.com / courtesy of Vogue 2. Forzieri, leather gloves €84 forzieri.it 3. Paco Rabanne, gold colour necklace $390 pacorabanne.com


DENIM COME BACK

1.

Power suits have been the most powerful trend of the last seasons. Matching items is still our favorite sport: top and skirt, pants and shirt in colour block. Denim is a valid option, since it has been one of the most used materials in the resort collections and the inspirations are countless. We decide to look at Burberry’s runway. Skirt and top with similar wash, plus a touch of colour of our choice. Swarovski’s earrings are becoming kind of popular and they’re going to be a must have of the following seasons.

2.

3.

Prada denim shirt $760 net-a-porter.com

1. Burberry cruise 2020 Photo courtesy Burberry 2. Acne Studios Denim skirt €280 farfetch.com 3. The Row leather sandals, €695 mytheresa.com

Swarovski OCEAN LOBSTER earrings €79 swarovski.com

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be yourself COVER STORY Photography Patrick Schwalb Style Markus Galic Model Céline Bethmann c/o Munich Models

Makeup Josie Martens c/o Bigoudi with products from MAC Cosmetics & Aveda Digital Operator Lucas Höllmüller

“Someone falls to pieces, Sleeping all alone Someone kills the pain, Spinning in the silence She finally drifts away Someone gets excited, In a chapel yard And catches a bouquet Another lays a dozen White roses on a grave, Yeahhh... And to be yourself is all that you can do Someone finds salvation in everyone, Another only pain Someone tries to hide himself, Down inside himself he prays Someone swears his true love, Until the end of time Another runs away Separate or united, Healthy or insane And to be yourself is all that you can do...” - in memory of Chris Cornell (©Audioslave - Be Yourself)



Opening: Coat Ted Baker | Bag MCM | Ankle Boots Chie Mihara | Here: Dress Jil sander | Ankleboots Rani Bageria



Opposite: Coat Franziska Michael | Ankle Boots Rani Bageria

Vest Marc Cain | Earrings Tassel Tales | Socks Falke | Ankle Boots Chie Mihara




Opposite: Jacket Talbot Runhof | Shorts Pinko

Dress Paul & Joe | Turtleneck Shirt Hanro | Shorts Pinko | Sneakers Kennel & Schmenger


Pullover Pinko | Dress Sandro |Shoes Miu Miu | Socks Falke



Opposite: Tricot jacket Franziska Michael | Shorts Franziska Michael | Socks Fila | Sneakers Kennel & Schmenger

Vest MCM | Sunglasses Chloe | Ankle Boots Chie Mihara



“The Met Gala changes topic every year, according to the new exhibition hosted in the Museum, and the guests are invited to personally interpret it through garments. Limitless budget and well known stylists, put together in an equation, give as a result guaranteed success.”

Dakota Johnson, Alessandro Michele, Jared Leto and Jared Leto’s Head al MET Gala 2019 - BFA for Gucci | courtesy of standard.co.uk

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Met Gala: the highest expression event words Giulia Greco “Clothes make the man” Shakespeare said in the Hamlet. And if we are usually constricted by socially accepted rules concerning clothes in our everyday life, there are special occasions in which is highly recommended to give voice to our own personality and taste. This is particularly true for stars and celebrities. The Met Gala became, in the last years, a very important appointment in this sense. Followed by millions of people all around the world, with a very high engagement and sharing level on social platforms. Born as a charity event, at the beginning of May for the annual opening of the Ne York Metropolitan Museum new exhibition, its trump cards are the person of Anna Wintour on one side, Vogue US’ editor in chief and host of the evening, whose halo reflects all the event; and on the other side the guests, stars and celebrities worldly known, mixed together with the best of the fashion system. They all reunited, for the delight of the public and of designers, who find in the red carpet a perfect advertisement occasion. Apart from the personalities that take part to the event, what we really appreciate is the idea. Needless to say what the Met Gala is, because everyone with an internet connection and an active social profile probably knows it. For the ones needing a refresh on the topic, the Met Gala changes topic every year, according to the new exhibition hosted in the Museum, and the guests are invited to personally interpret it through garments. Limitless budget and well known stylists, put together in an equation, give as a result guaranteed success. And, even if some looks are pretty unconventional and leave the public speechless - hard to say if in a positive or negative way - what really matter is dare. And be remembered. Camp: Notes on Fashion was this year topic, highly celebrated because it gave carte blanche to the guests. It was the final Gucci’s triumph, because Alessandro Michele is the real king of kitsch. He proved it with Jared Leto’s outfit, completed by a Swarovski’s body chain and the reproduction of his own head to be carried around. Lady Gaga changed her dress four times, without even leaving the stage, confirming her chameleonic skill and her natural predisposition for exhibitionism. And it’s going to be hard to forget Katy Perry, whose dress was a giant chandelier. The Met Gala of excess, without any doubt, even though some important name were missing. For this reason we had a look back to the previous Met Gala, to make a list of unforgettable outfits and their eccentric owners.

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Met Gala 2018, Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination 2018 Met Gala was about the relationship between Catholic church and fashion. The red carpet was full of golden trinkets and holy pictures, memorabilia from the Vatican City and papal robes. Dolce&Gabbana was the perfect brand for the evening, for obvious reasons. But the Catholic world have always had a huge influence over the fashion production, from the beginning of the last century till now, and Met Gala’s guests had just plenty of choice. Victoria Secrets’ angel Bella transformed into black devil for the occasion, while Stella Maxwell chose a golden dress by Moschino, looking like altarpiece by Giotto. Saints with halos and silver armors - very Joan of Arc’s style - and the chaste outfit of Greta Gerwing, in the Row, in the role of a chic mother prioress. Rihanna asked for a higher grade and played at the Pope, wearing a John Galliano for Maison Margiela dress.

From left: Bella Hadid in Gareth Pugh | Rihanna in John Galliano x Maison Margiela | Stella Maxwell in Moschino | all shots ©Getty


From left: Anna Clevland and Tracee Ellis Ross in Comme des Garçons | Cara Delevingne in Chanel | all shots ©etty

Met Gala 2017, Rei Kawakubo / Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between 2017 Met Gala was the occasion to celebrate Rei Kawakubo, avant guard designer and soul and mind of Comme des Garçons. She is the second designer alive Anna Wintour dedicated the Met Gala to, after Yves Saint Laurent in 1983. Her limitless genius and her artistic and intellectual vision make Kawakubo a deeply enigmatic figure and, for this reason, a very fascinating one. The best looks were obviously from Comme des Garçons: among others, Rihanna (yes, no surprise), Tracee Ellis Ross and Anna Cleveland. Rigid shapes, unusual materials and 3D patterns, they all are denominators of Kawakubo’s aesthetic. She always thinks about clothes as wearable art pieces - or maybe not really wearable. Her design is just extreme and the real quintessence of high fashion: excess, to be admire on catwalk but absolutely not suitable for real life.

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Met Gala 2016, Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology Technology and fashion have a deep relationship since the very beginning. Fashion design is actually nothing but the result of new technological processes humanity access during time. 2016 Met Gala was more about futuristic technologies, avant guard fashion in the space age. Tones of silver fabrics, coming from the sparkling armor of robot, but also sculptured dress, like the one from Atelier Versace, worn by Kate Hudson. Louis Vuitton was probably the more suitable label, for its own peculiar spacial style. The winner of the evening was Claire Danes in Zac Posen: her baby blue dress was the perfect reproduction of Cinderella’s gown the night she meets her Prince. The same magic of Walt Disney’s movie was reproduced in New York, because when the light went off, the gown glow of its own light. Cynics say it was because of led lights sewn inside the fabrics. In our opinion it was magician art.

From left: Karolina Kurkova in Marchesa | Claire Danes in Zac Posen | Kate Hudson in Versace | all shots ©Getty


From left: Georgia Mary Jagger in Gucci | Sara Jessica Parker in H&M | Anne Hathaway in Ralph Lauren | all shot ©getty

Dettaglio di dipinto by Damien Hirst at “The Veil Paintings” di Gagosian, Los©Damien Angeles. Foto byinEmily per Artsy Dettaglio di dipinto Hirst “The Berl Veil Paintings” al Gagosian, Los Angeles | foto Emily Berl per Artsy

Damien Hirst. Damien Hirst è uno dei principali esponenti del movimento pittorico inglese contemporaneo e la sua arte, geniale e personale, desta grande interesse nella critica. Tema principale è la morte, che Hirst indaga soprattutto in relazione al mondo animale e che emerge dalle sue opere come un aspetto naturale della vita che accomuna tutti noi. Nonostante la tematica in sè sia tradizionale, l’artista britannico l’ha ampliata in modo del tutto originale: animali morti sezionati (così da mostrare sia l’interno Met Gala 2015, China:che l’esterno del cadavere), collage di farfalle e un famoso teschio tempestato di diamanti, fino alla composizione Through The Looking Glass della Biennale di Venezia del 1993 composta da metà mucca e metà vitello. mezzo d’espressione non convenzionale che Hirst predilige The EastIlhas a very strong fascination over the può creare shock nello ma l’artista vuole in realtà eliminare western countries since spettatore, always. Exotic, perfumed il timore e il doloretradition che l’uomo quandoIts si rapporta alla morte, and silky, between andprova innovation. per in creare una fruizione sue istallazioni sono composte di role the fashion systemserena. is, overLe a number of materiali diversi, da pittura, scultura e disegno insieme e indagano un years now, no more possible to be ignored. The territorio al confine traalready arte e scienza, che2015, l’uomo cerca costantemente Metropolitan Museum knew it in di esorcizzare attraverso la religione and e la medicina. La reazione fisica when the Met Gala was a celebration a istantanea che lo spettatore sperimenta davanti alle istallazioni è la homage to the Chinese culture, thanks to the parte più importante per l’artista, perchè solo dopo un brivido o un collaboration with the Chinese Galleries. senso divelvet, nausea,dragoons l’audience può iniziare una riflessione proficua sulla Flowers, and many different morte. tones of red were protagonists on the red carpet. Non solo morte ma anche - epassion soprattutto Sarah Jessica Parker, and her for - vita. “The Miraculous Journey” è una delle istallazioni scultoree più criticate di Hirst e risale headgear, pared in H&M and took part of the al 2005,heritage realizzata peral’inaugurazione del nuovo Sidra Medical Center Chinese with huge and very elaborate in Arabiaover Saudita. Le 14made sculture (sono alte dai 5 agli 11 structure her head, withmonumentali flames, metri) di cui è composta raccontano il “viaggio” del feto dalla feconflowers and diamonds. A lot of dresses were dazione fino alla nascita, celebrando il miracolo della vita e toccando simpler and linear, recalling the traditional shape inusuali per il mondo medio oriente. oftematiche Chinese dress: stiff collar, linesdel of small Hirst divide la criticaand e accanto a chi celebra la sua arte come visionaria buttons and uniform sumptuous colors, like c’è chi ne disprezza lo stile e lo sfarzo. Materiali the Anne Hathaway’s dress by Ralph Lauren. Or preziosi, strutture esagerate moltissimi soldi spesi attrarre the special efluidity of kimono, suchper as the one fama e visibilità, senza contare la lista lunghissima artisti a cui Hirst ha “rubato” elementi e worn by Georgia May Jagger di made in Gucci. idee, senza alcuna paura ad ammetterlo. p.107 p.59 p.67 p.55


“The need rooted in Human Nature is to express one’s personality”

New identity Photography Cristiano Miretti Style and Concept Veronica Bergamini Production Khalder Productions Model Veronica Manavella c/o Monster Makeup Paolo De Vita Hair Style Matteo Bartolini c/o Freelancer using Hot Tools, R+Cousing Mac Cosmetics Photography Assistant Luca Galvagni Style Assistant Giada Restelli


Down jacket Bartolotta & Martorana Leather suit Ermanno Scervino Body Tpn Shoes Fabio Rusconi Jewelry Gogo Philip Bracelet Sharra Pagano Hat Pasquale Bonfilio Leather Corset Absidem



Shirt Salvatore Ferragamo Tulle shirt Nadya Dzyak Pants Gilberto Calzolari Belts Sergio Gavazzeni Hat Montegallo Shoes Fabio Rusconi Opposite: Faux Fur, Pants Vivetta Shirt Vera Road Dress Florentinalight Shoes Salvatore Ferragamo



Dresses Nadya Dzyak Boots Jf london Necklaces Rosantica / Gogo Philip Sunglasses Spectre Eyewear Ring Sharra Pagano Opposite: Shirt Martina Cella Dress Giorgia Arcidiacono Foulard Chanel by Flower Vintage Room Tights Emilio Cavallini Boots Salar Jewelry Sharra Pagano / Rosantica Necklace Flower vintage Room



Purple shirt Stefano de Lellis Black wool pants 16r Firenze Zebra tights Calzedonia Green tights Wolford Lurex silver socks Pomandère Shoes Gedebe Belt Nadya Dzyak Jewelry Rosantica Veil Pasquale Bonfilio Opposite: Faux Fur, Pants Vivetta Shirt Vera Road Dress Florentinalight Shoes Salvatore Ferragamo


THE REAL LUXURY:

MADE-

TO-MEASURE words Giulia Greco


Lanieri SS 2019 Opening page: Bocache and salvucci courteys of Financial times

It is pretty hard to define what luxury is nowadays, especially if we talk about fashion. All the big brands would like to define their production as “luxury”, pretending to open to their clients an élite world, far away from the mass consumption, where to experiment luxury through dresses and accessories of finest design and precious materials. It’s helpful to think about the physical structure of high brands’ boutiques, that you can enter passing through double doors someone opens for you: it’s a sort of “rite of passage”, from the external everyday world, to the closed and defined universe of a selected audience. Luxury is not only about price and labels, but it is mostly concerned with fabrics’ quality, design’s excellence and rarity. We think that the latter is the element that better define what luxury is, because owing a dress, a pair of shoes, a perfume or even a painting someone made just for us - thinking about us, about our personality and our necessities this is a really peculiar sensation, not possible to be found elsewhere in the market of big numbers. p.65


Tailored made concept can be applied on many fields. Although it is a niche market, still available for a small group of consumers, it is now experimenting a new success and spread, also between younger generation, that really appreciates customization. Clothing and accessorizing are, after all, the main tools we use in our everyday life to communicate something of ourselves to others. Tailored made market invites us to re-discover our personal style, to express it through our wardrobe, making conscious and sophisticated choices, not dressing exclusively according on seasonal trends. Startups and designers try to find new solutions to give a tailored made experience to everybody is interesting in smarter purchasing, who, despite of a smaller budgets, is willing to invest money on good items, not only in terms of quality but also in term of storytelling. Custom made is not a new concept: it was the normal way of making clothes only 70 years ago, before the advent of mass distribution. There was a time where every single item was tailored made specifically for the person who would wear it: it was a long process, maybe boring and surely expensive, which taught the real value of clothes and how to take care of them. We have lost all these sensations but we should try to recover

Here: courtesy of Lanieri | Up: courtesy of GAN + Zazilab | Opposite: GAN


them, because they can change in better our behaviors as fashion consumers. In 2018 Yusaku Maezawa, Japanese entrepreneur, presented his startup Zozo which, thanks to a special jumpsuit - the so called zozosuit (a tight jumpsuit with more than 400 sensors) - allows consumers to take body’s measurements and then order jeans, t-shirts and shirts on the online shop. The Zozo website claims that they do not use size, but only body “shapes�. In Italy, Lanieri offers a similar service: consumers can buy

a tailored made suit on the website of the company, helped by a tutorial on how to take accurate measurements. The final product is perfectly modeled on the body type of the consumer, being still affordable. Made in Italy market is well known and appreciated for custom-made goods. It is not only about the perfection of the final model, but it is also about the process itself, that gives to the items a special allure, together with the craftsmanship skills of artisans and the fine raw materials used for the production. Consumers care is fundamental. p.67


Ateliers which produce clothing, shoes and accessories are particularly aware of the final clients and their specific needs. Clients must be satisfied by the final products but they have to enjoy the creation journey as well. This is the case of Bocache and Salvucci, a historical roman atelier close to Barberini square. Specialized in bespoke male shoes, the atelier offers to the client a full service, as much as one of the master goes personally to consumers’ house for fitting process. Production takes usually six months and the price goes from 200 euro to 600 euro, depending on the model and the leather. The final pair of shoes is just the perfect one,

Lanieri SS 2019 | Opposite: courtesy of GAN

p.68

made to last all life long. Facing the passing of time is also the main goal of G.A.N., atelier born on the idea of two friends, sharing the same passion for clothes and fabrics. The tailored made dresses they realize for their international consumers pass through generations, from mothers to daughters, becoming part of the family’s story and usually marking important events. Fabrics are often recycled from old garments clients bring to the atelier, or they are treasures found in wholesale. Also in this case the price changes depending on the required work, but what all G.A.N.’s creations share is a great passion.


Tailored made market not only gives us the chance to stay coherent to our personal taste, but it also has a lighter environmental impact: it reduces wastes, because items have a longer life, they are not throw away at the end of the season, but eventually repaired or modified; it uses better materials we can trace the provenience of, and all the process is made by known people under our eyes. Take a little step backwards is sometimes very useful, because it is the way we can escape from the crazy massive consumption circle we live in. Tailored made’s virtues are countless, we have just to learn how to look at clothes in a different way.


“She lives on Love Street Lingers long on Love Street She has a house and garden I would like to see what happens She has robes and she has monkeys Lazy diamond studded flunkies She has wisdom and knows what to do She has me and she has you” ©the Doors - Love Street

Back in the

Days Photography Christoph Klutsch c/o Townsend London Style Ricarda Venjacob c/o Liganord Model Lisa Verberght c/o Iconic Management Hair Style, Makeup Katja Maassen c/o Liganord




Opening: Jumpsuit DanamĂŠ |Belt Stella McCartney | Shoes, Earrings, Bracelet Dior Here: Dress Solace London | Shoes Ganni Opposite: Blouse Christopher Kane | Skirt Ivy & Oa



Coat Lutz Huelle | Gloves Prada Opposite: Jacket MiuMiu | Pants Nanushka | Blouse Subtle | Necklace Dior



Jacket, Shoes Versace | Pants Victoria Beckham Opposite: Blouse Saint Laurent | Pants Victoria Beckham | Earrings Anne Manns



Dress Emma Rowen Rose | Shoes Mulberry Opposite: Hairband Jennifer Behr | Blouse Isabel Marant


“Blessed are the timid because they inhabit the earth in a delicate way “. Kindness is not a sign of weakness, but of courage and openness. It means being light: it is a rarity of the spirit.

So rare Photography Antoine Coquelet Style Eva Silatsa Model Nynke Slegers c/o IMG Models Makeup, Hair Style Valentine Doorman Assistant Maona Micoud


Jumpsuit Yanina Couture Earrings Asos



Dress, Shoes Mugler Hat Benoit Missolin Opposite: Mini Dress, Skirt Xuan


Dress Leandrocano Opposite: Dress Yolan Chris Shoes Litkovskaya Bag Pauleka



Blouse Daname Skirt Litkovskaya Purse Pauleka Opposite: Top, Shorts Dice Kayek Belt Issey Miyake Shoes Litkovskaya



MICHAEL ANTHONY In the backstage with Michael Anthony, the celebrities make-up artist words Federica Caiazzo

His life is filled with glamour, his skin is divinely tattooed and his cute white bull terrier follows along his adventures in life and career: Michael Anthony is all of this and much more. By having a look at his Instagram’s gallery, you’ll immediately realize he is a creative individual with an extraordinary talent. Brushes, exclusive palettes and the most desired make-up brands follow one another in the pictures he shares with more than 50K followers. But there’s another face (a very famous one, indeed) who is protagonist as much as him in his account: the one and only Katy Perry, whose make-up artist is Michael Anthony himself. However, beware of calling him just like this: he’d rather say he is an “alchemist”, because isn’t beauty something wonderfully magic? The question is addressed in the following interview, where Michael reveals us the behind the scenes of his job and tells us how he turned a life-long passion into his career. And, most of all, he unveils those moments full of excitement, just minutes before Katy Perry hit the red carpet of MET Gala 2019. courtesy of Michael Anthony


Katy Perry at 2019 iHeartRadio music awards | ph. Chris Delmas @Getty

Tête-à-tête with the Katy Perry’s “alchemist”

Michael, how did you start your career? I grew up receiving art supplies as birthday gifts and Christmas presents since my parents noticed I had a penchant for the arts. I was mesmerized by my mother and sisters’ beauty and obsessed with the glam icons of the ‘80s and ‘90s: the two combined created a passion for all things related to beauty. I started my career like many of the greats, at the department store in the beauty bay! It’s one of the best places to learn to apply make-up to different complexions and to navigate different personalities. I further my career and understanding of the way make up works by doing fashion week in New York, London and Paris.

Your Instagram bio says you’re an alchemist. What is “alchemy” through the lenses of a make-up artist? That’s an awesome question, I’m glad you asked! By definition, an alchemist is somebody who creates or transforms something through a magical process. For me, the process of transforming someone from their natural state into a state where they’re presenting as ultra-realistic or a hyper feminine version of themselves is magical. Sometimes the process doesn’t have as much explanation as people want it too, it just seems to happen through an exchange of energy between you and the person you’re doing make up on. When it’s complete, it’s so gratifying! That’s how I consider myself a beauty alchemist!

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Rita Ora at the Escada X Rita Ora Launch Party on March 2019 in New York City | ph. @Getty

What makes you feel constantly inspired? I am constantly inspired by innovation and technology in color as well as beauty. I’m inspired by the group of people I surround myself with and the clients that I work with regularly. I’m inspired by the color patterns in nature such as wild birds, orchids and other beautiful flowers, all of the beautiful things that are around us all the time that we miss if we don’t stop and pay attention. You work with amazing celebrities, who are artists as well. How do you make sure that your art suits theirs? The first thing that I tell people when we start working together is that I do not have an ego about this process: it is a collaboration and, ultimately, they need to be comfortable and confident when we are done. The easiest thing to do is communicate with them openly and honestly about where we’re going.

When people seek me out, they already understand I have a creative perspective. I’m very fortunate to work with incredibly talented and artistic people and it’s a lot of fun!! You created Katy Perry’s beauty look for Met Gala 2019. How was interpreting “Camp”? The MET Gala is such a unique event, and it is definitely one of the highlights of the year for me (Michael was there with Katy in 2018 too, ed.). For 2019, the interpretation of “Camp” was seen out by Jeremy Scott for Moschino as a living chandelier, which made my job quite easy. I focused on making Katy look as beautiful, flawless and radiant as possible using exclusively Covergirl products! My favorite part of that look was the shade of lipstick, which was a beautiful peachy coral from her “Katy Cat Matt” collection!


What’s your opinion about trends? I think it’s important to follow the natural path of progression when it comes to technology advances in cosmetics and beauty. There are beautiful innovations in foundation and lip products and even eye products as far as color pay off, texture, finish and wear. Those are the trends that I like to pay closer attention to so that I can provide my clients with up-to-date products ,shades and techniques... it also helps me stay on top of my game and not have a “dated “look to my make up!! Any favorite make-up looks among those you’ve created for Katy Perry?

When we filmed American Idol season 2, every episode was a different make up look. As you can imagine, it was so much fun for someone like me who likes to play with color. I would say that one that comes to mind is a neon green eyeliner that she wore for auditions. I got a lot of questions about what products are used and that was exciting being able to communicate through my art! Will you share with us your dream? My dream is to inspire as many people as I can on my journey, I want to help others realize their dreams!

Katy Perry at 2019 MET Gala | ph. Dimitrios Kambouris @Getty

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Lady

Modern The 80s had been the very last period for great freedom. And the very last period of avant guard. Before technologies, before social media and before the digital native. Before the beginning of the new century, future was a bright place. And the young women running to this bright future with their arms open, they believed in theirselves as never before. Volumes and colors, exaggeration and empowerment. The make-up of tomorrow looks back to the past and searches, in the golden period of the 80s, the attitude and the energy to go on.

Photography Jacek Grabczewski Style Pawel Kedzierski Model Brygida Naumowicz c/o Model plus Warsaw Makeup Eryka Sokòlska using Armani, YVES SAINT LAURENT, Sisley, Chanel, Kat Von D, Max Factor, Becca, NARS, Charlotte Tilbury, Makeup Forever, Bobbi Brown, Marc Jacobs, Freck, Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, EstÊe Lauder, Dior Hair Style Klaudia Jaspinska using Kevin.Murphy



Opening:Blazer Zaquad | Earrings Louis Vuitton Here: Dress MMC | Earrings Chanel Vintage Opposite: Top Zaquad | Bracelet Louis Vuitton | Hat Mi Levinska Millinery




Hat Mi Levinska Millinery | Bracelet Louis Vuitton Opposite: Dress MMC


Summer beauty products? The answer is GREEN

words Giulia Greco


Summer season: the heat, the sunbathing session and the salty sea water on our skin. All of them are amazing feelings we were looking forward to. Either we’ll spend our summer by the pool, on a tropical island or one thousand meters high in a green oasi on the mountains, we must bel sure to have perfect beauty mondo dellathecosmetica è ultimaproducts with us. You know, sun di raysunand sea mente protagonista cambiawater havemento great benefits, hair anddall’essere skin molto but lontano suffer from natural elements’ exposition and they must be protected in the right way. We should not only choose the best beauty products for our personal health, but also we shall be careful not to damage the planet. Lots of chemicals used in lotions, shampoos and creams are harmful for the environment. Hawaii, Mexico and Republic of Palau, natural island in the western Ocean Pacific, already started to educate tourists about the toxic impact beauty products have on ecosystems. Starting from 2020 sun creams with certain chemical, such as oxybenzone and octinoxato, will be banned in many touristic destinations, because of their role in the consumption of coral reefs. Choosing right products is way easier than it may seem. You don’t need a bachelor in chemistry, nor be expert in environmental safeguard. We just need to grasp informations and learn how to read labels. The majority of the time what is dangerous for the planet is dangerous for us as well. The effort is worth. Some beauty brands are already very aware of the components they use and they possible aftermaths on natural landscape. Among others, L’Orèal published a report, earlier this year, assuring the community that its products are not dangerous for coral reefs and have no impact over the natural sea biodiversity. Caudalie, Banana Boat and Avène have the same approach to the matter. If you need some more help, you could easily download an app on your smartphone: Greenity, for instance, is a platform that allows you to search the product you’re interesting in (by name or barcode) and read the ingredients - written in green, orange or red depending on their provenance - together with informations and suggestions from other consumers.

LATEST BEAUTY

Foto by Daria Shevtsova

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LATEST BEAUTY HAIR: During summer hair and head skin suffer a huge stress. Sea salt or chlorine, sweat and frequent washing are all causes of weak and damaged hair, which takes a lot to recover. We shall play in advance with Flow Cosmetics, brand from Finland which uses only natural ingredients. Shampoo are organic, 100% natural and solid - like old soap bars they do not use useless plastic packages. Calendula shampoo is the best one for summer, because it takes care of damaged and stressed hair, nourishes them in deep and disentangle them. Honey and pink clay purify and soothe, with a fantastic natural smell.

Product: Solid Shampoo | flowcosmetics.com 10.80€

SKIN. If you want to buy a sun screen useful either at the beach and in the city, we suggest you the new Mega-Defense SPF 45 cream by Origins. This is the first totally natural cream by the brand, which screens for humidity and from pollution, even more dangerous during summer. Cactus Opuntia makes the skin stronger and prevent from irritations. For a perfect result you can also buy Ginzing SPF 40 eye contour, made with caffeine and ginseng: they nourish in deep, give new energy and humidify.

Product: Mega-Defense SPF 45 | origins.com 43$ p.100


La trasparenza è il motto di La trasparenza di Nabla Nabla Cosmetics, EYES. Cosmetics, chegenuinità punta allae genuinità che punta alla all’utilizzoe di ingreall’utilizzo di ingredienti vegani e cruelty-free, dienti vegani efor cruelty-free, garantendo proSummer trend makeup focuses on eyes. garantendo prodotti diIlprima qualità. dotti prima qualità. marchio italiano Let’s di play with eyeliner and mascara with racIl marchio italiano racchiude nelnatura nome egreen l’amore chiude nel nome l’amore perlike la l’arte: unusual and bright colours, pastel per l’arte: Nabla un simbolo Nabla ènatura siaAdd une asimbolo che èinsia fisica si glitter usa per and la pink. wet finishing or some che fisica sinatura, usa persia descrivere la natura, descrivere la un richiamo all’immafor aintruly impacting result. Zao Make-up is sia richiamo all’immagine dell’arpa, spesso gine dell’arpa, spesso in mitologia theun perfect solution forraffigurata good and beautiful raffigurata in its mitologia accanto ad Dio accanto adAll Apollo Dio delle arti. Il Apollo brand products. philosophy is based on prodelle arti.plant, Il brand propone una di pone una serie di collezioni molto interessanti, bamboo perfect to use as serie ingredient collezioni molto interessanti, trahigh cui up lalevel tra “Close-up Line” and e la the “CloseVol.2”, forcui its la elastic properties “Close-up Line” e la “Closeup Vol.2”, due due linee di correttori e fondotinta of natural collagene inside, but also todisegnati make linee di correttori e fondotinta per per ogni tipo di pelle. L’attenzione alle esigenrecyclable packaging with a lowdisegnati ogni di pelle. L’attenzione allenel esigenze ze deltipo consumatore si vede progetto environmental impact. The anche beauty line has del consumatore siinvede anche nelinprogetto “Me&Nabla” cui inviare qualsiasi mascara, eyearea pencils andpoter eyeliner “Me&Nabla” area inmade cui poter qualsiasi suggerimento volto ad arricchire del different tonalities, withinviare aloel’offerta vera, suggerimento volto adviene arricchire l’offerta del brand. Ogni consiglio discusso a cadenza for a long lasting finishing. brand. Ogni consiglio viene discusso a cadenmensile dal team. za mensile dal team.

​ Erdem PE2019 / photo ©Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv. Product: Rechargeable Bio Eyeliner | zaomakeup.com

Product: Sun Lip Balm SPF15 5$ | hurrawbalm.com

LIPS. stessa lunghezza d’onda è anche BeneSulla cos, brand tedesco specializzato in prodotti Be sure to take care of your lipseboth in winter per il make-up, unghie, capelli corpo. Tra la Sulla stessa lunghezza d’onda è anche and ingamma summer. You can between vasta offerta dal choose brand gli smalti sono Benecos, brand tedesco specializzato in many lip balms, butilwe suggest Hurraw!. molto interessanti; colore è layou caratteristica prodotti per il make-up, unghie, capelli e The online shop basically dimostrando the Mecca of come lip fondamentale delisprodotto, corpo. Tra la vasta gamma offerta dal brand balms: you something fordella all tastes uno stile di can vitafind votato al rispetto natura gli smalti sono molto interessanti; il colore è all sue needs. Ingredients are analysed one eand delle risorse non faccia rinunciare all’ela caratteristica fondamentale del prodotto, by one, packaging areImade stro e alla creatività. nomiwith deglirecycled smalti sono dimostrando come uno stile di vita votato al materials, all products are 100% vegan. Sun molto invitanti, tra le tante proposte troviamo rispetto della natura e delle sue risorse non Balm SPF 15 is meat to protect lips o ilLip “bubble gum”, “you-nique”, “wildour orchid” faccia rinunciare all’estro e alla creatività. I without damaging environment we live in. “flamingo”, i grandithe assenti sono la formaldeinomi degli smalti sono molto invitanti, tra It isi resistant creamy, smell of tangerine de, parabeni,and siliconi e altre sostanze chimile tante proposte troviamo il “bubble gum”, withnocive; a touchalof vanilla, the olio roman che loro postoand invece di avocado “you-nique”, “wild orchid” o “flamingo”, i echamomile vitamina Hextract adattacalms per leirritations. unghie fragili. grandi assenti sono la formaldeide, i parabeni, siliconi e altre sostanze chimiche nocive; al Queste proposte non sono le uniche sul mercaloro posto invece olio di avocado e vitamina H to, tanti sono i brand che ormai stanno viranadatta per le unghie fragili. do verso una proposta etica e sostenibile, per Queste proposte non sono le uniche sul l’ambiente e per la salute e prosperità di corpo mercato, tanti sono i brand che ormai stanno e mente. virando verso una proposta etica e sostenibile, per l’ambiente e per la salute e prosperità di corpo e mente. p.117 p.59


Summer

VIBES


Photography Jessica Grossmann Style Izabela Macoch c/o Kathrin Hohberg Model Flavia c/o Modelwerk Makeup, hair style Christine Be c/o Bigoudi

Dress ODEEH Jeans jacket Lutz Huelle Earrings Lutz Huelle Opening: Dress Lena Hoschek Pants ODEEH Hat Spatz Hutdesign Passau Earrings Svarovski



Opening: Dress ODEEH Jacket, Earrings Lutz Huelle Here: Hat Spatz Hutdesign Passau Shirt Lutz Huelle Pants Marcel Ostertag Socks Falke Shoes Dawid Tomaszewski Opposite: Dress Lena Hoschek Skirt Irene Luft Shoes Lutz Huelle Ribbon, Gloves Roeckl


Dress, Skirt Dawid Tomaszweski Necklace Alama Socks Falke Slippers MSGM Opposite: Top Vladimir Karaleev Skirt Marina Hoermanseder Shorts Marcell Von Berlin Socks Falke High heels MSGM Earrings J.Crew Ring Mies Nobis




Overall Atelier Michael Michalsky Bomber jacket Lutz Huelle Ring René Talmon l’Armée Opposite: Dress Lena Hoschek Pants Jil Sander Navy Shoes Dawid Tomaszewski Earrings Gina Melosi Ring Mies Nobis



Dress Nobi Talai Pants, Shoes Lutz Huelle Ring René Talmon l‘Armée Hat Spatz Hutdesign Passau Scarf Roeckl Opposite: Dress Vladimir Karaleev Ring, Bracelet René Talmon l‘Armée


Editor’s letter

LATEST FASHION words Giulia Greco

all photos: “Hermès dietro le quinte” | Roma 2019, Museo dell’Ara Pacis

BEHIND THEof luxury SCENES brands In a system crowded of informations and possibilities, luxury brands should stand out from the rest of the market and offer to their clients something more valuable and memorable. At the core of the strategy we find on one side the absolute perfections of items, on the other side consumers’ need for experience. Luxury brands offer flawless garments and accessories, coming from the craftsmanship production and realised according to traditional techniques old of ages, passing from one generation to the other. The so called savoir fair, so important and so intangible, is the result of years and years of refinement. Even though technologies have gained, during the time, an important role in production, what makes the final product unique is still the human part. Like in any dystopia worthing this

name, the limit of technologies goes along with the human values that can’t be substituted and reproduced. Maybe we forget too easily that at the center of this crazy world that is fashion, lay clothes and their making. Artisans are the motor nothing would be possibile without. On the other face of the coin there are clients, their needs and especially their desires. Every material item is theoretically accessible, even if not in the immediacy. Experience must be sought, it’s ephemeral, depends on place, space and time. It is untouchable, as much as artisan know-how, but in the same way it generates an added value that continues luxury’s essence. From those reflections, in the last few years, some sort of sensorial experiences arose, thought for luxury brands’ clients and everybody interested in


seeing where and how items are born. The Journées Particulières are a central event in LVMH’s communication - holding of Louis Vuitton, Fendi and Loro Piana among others. Starting from 2011, every year, LVMH Maison open their artisans ateliers to the public, invited to discover the creative process and production of the brands. The last episode took place at Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, Fendi’s head quarter in Rome. Visitors had the chance to see artisans producing a Peekaboo Mini, following every step of the process. How to cut leather, how it is sewing together, how the inside is realised. The visit followed with the shoes-making section, jewelry and furrier part. LVMH also produced a podcast series, dedicated to the event: Confidences Particulières, a new tool to deep down in the company’s reality. Again in Rome, later this year, the Ara Pacis museum hosted Hermès: behind the scenes. Leather gloves, silky tie and carré, jewelry and high watchmaking, together with a section dedicated to house forniture. All of which handmade and explained in small details by French artisans. The exhibition gave to the public the exclusive possibility to see directly the dye process of foulards, Hermès’ hero piece since ever, and to feel part of a selected and privileged group of consumers. Sensorial and cognitive experience as such, (Journées Particulières are a bright example) are now lifeblood for brands’ communication and consumer’s experience. Producers of dreams, even more than of garments and accessories, brands engage with their public, showing hidden precious processes and craftsmanship ability, which make the magic happen everyday. In a never ending story the client is asked to collaborate writing. p.113



THIS must be THE PLACE PHOTOGRAPHY ALDONA KARCZMARCZYK C/O VAN DORSEN ARTISTS STYLE MACIEJ SPADŁO C/O VAN DORSEN ARTISTS MODEL KASIA JUJECZKA C/O D’VISION MAKEUP AGA WILK C/O VAN DORSEN ARTISTS HAIR STYLE ADRIAN WŁASIUK C/O VAN DORSEN ARTISTS


Here: Dress Dior | Hat Sportmax | Opposite: Dress Red Valentino

Opening: Total look Michael Kors collection




Coat Max Mara



Gilet Emanuel Ungaro | Shirt Paule Ka



Opposite: Shirt Paule Ka

Suit Paule Ka | Hat Sportmax


Suit , Gilet Brunello Cucinelli



Oppposite: Top, Skirt Sportmax | Shirt Liviana Conti

Jacket, Belt Brunello Cucinelli




Dress, Vest Louis Vuitton


REDISCOVERY OF UNIQUENESS words Ludovica Mucci

LIMITED EDITION ACCESSORIES


& Other Stories x Mia Larsson jewelry collection | courtesy of & Other Stories

Intrinsic in the fashion system is the perennial play of forces between our instinctive inclination towards the identification in a group and the desire to express our uniqueness through the search for our personal style. This is due to the combination of all that is transmitted by the runways, influencers’ social media and the latest collaborations between different brands, and at the same time, it is due to the association of different elements that answer to our unique style. The ensemble of all of these define us. In this scenario, the accessory is the fundamental ingredient to create a mix of uniqueness that is all ours. It can be inspired by different influences, styles and cultures, and so reflecting in a clear way the things that we are passionate about and that make us who we are.

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Today, collaborations between brands are very frequent, to the point that these unions create very often some special capsule collections that widen our horizons of mix and match, simplifying our job of researching rarer pieces to complete our look. Through these collaborations the combination of many interests can be possible, classic meets modern, technology meets nature, and communicates even further the personal taste, which is not naturally univocal, on the contrary is made of different facets, sometimes apparently disharmonic between one another. In this context the collaborations give the consumer the chance to expand his or her limits, to embrace more styles and influences in just one bag, or one foulard or in one hat, and by doing so express his or her own uniqueness in a complete way. In these last few months many collaborations have been announced and interesting capsule collections have seen luxury brands, fast fashion brands and some other emergent artists and companies come together.


KOMONO x Royal Academy of Fine Arts di Anversa | left: Grace Hyejin Kim, right Linus Leonardsson Š Press office Previous page: 8 Other Reasons X Jill Jacobs jewelry collection| courtesy of 8otherreasons.com

An interesting union has been the one of Komono, founded in 2009 by Raf Maes and Anton Janssens and specialised in accessories, with some students of the Royal Academy of Antwerp. The fresh and sparkling creativity of Grace Hyejinkim, Linus Leonardsson, Quinten Mestdagh and Nick Haemels produced an innovative, futuristic collection of sunglasses that was presented during the Master Show. Romantic and contemporary at the same time, was the creative symbiosis between

& Other Stories and Fern Fans, which has produced a series of five fans with hand-painted decorations, that wanted to celebrate the introduction of an old object full of history in the contemporaneity. Amanda Borberg, Fern Fans’co-founder, highlighted in the interview for the Swedish brand how the ornaments of the fans are the result of the deep connection between Fern Fans with nature and its colours. Ideal for those who wish to add a touch of classic in a modern style, the fans have always had a double function beside being a simple

p.133


instrument used to refresh up in a hot day; it was also an instrument to convey a secret language, alive only through the eyes and simple hand gestures. The two brands brought the fan into our times by suggesting three other types of messages with an illustrate guide: “You Make me laugh”, “Good call!” and “I like you style”. & Other stories also collaborated with Swedish designer Mia Larsson at a jewellery limited edition collection made with oyster shells. It was a collection made to celebrate the summer spirit with a sustainable approach without sacrificing style. The serie was entirely made

Collaboration between Louis Vuitton and six international artists | courtesy of Louis Vuitton

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with resistant waste marine materials and was composed by rings, clip earrings and a necklace. The result was an elegant creation, followed by a clothing line that was inspired by the jewels, made with recycled polyester and organic cotton. Speaking of jewels, the collaboration between 8 Other Reasons x Jill Jacobs saw an energic and impactful creation of 80s-inspired earrings, wore by Kylie Jenner, amongst other celebrities. The rounded and bold shape is typical of the age of ostentation, the golden setting and coloured crystals are perfect for those who want to communicate their magnetic style out loud.


& Other Stories x Fern Fans, five hand-painted fans | photo courtesy of & Other Stories

The collaboration between Louis Vuitton and six international artists can be the most suitable to show off a lively personality. The iconic bag Capucines was born in 2013 to celebrate the first opening of Louis Vuitton’s store in 1854 in Rue des Capucines. Today, six international artists have personalised the bag taking inspiration from their works of art. Each of them has realised six limited edition pieces. From the bag inspired by Alex Israel’s California Wave, to the Sam Falls’ bag made of mother- of- pearl details and embroidered flowers, the Capucines bags discovered a new life and are perfect to make the days of those who wear them more dynamic and colourful.


“Beneath this mask there is more than flesh... beneath this mask there is an idea, and ideas... are bulletproof.” “V” in V for Vendetta (2006); based on the graphic novel by Alan Moore.

Look beyond, and you will be free.

BEYOND the Mask Photography Olga Volkis Style and Creative Direction Dasha Coleman Models Maria, Karina, Karolina c/o Kostromichova Makeup, Hair Style Anastasia Leonova


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DOROTHYPERKINS.COM p.148


“Stanley Kubrick: the Exhibition” London, 26 April-17 September Stanley Kubrick is one of the best cinematographic directors of all time. Twenty years later his death, an exhibition celebrates his genius. The impeccable style is easy to recognise, the odd topics and the subtle critique of contemporary society, the wide and static settings, encompassing protagonists and creating a sense of oppression in the spectator. We’ll find all those features in this exhibition at the Design Museum of London. The show, curated by the brother in low of the director, has been created with the exterminated private archive that Kubrick put together during his life in his house in Hertfordshire. Objects from the set, rare photographies and technologies used during the filming are exhibited too. The show is divided into six different rooms, each of them dedicated to one of the movie that made Kubrick famous all over the world: 2001: Space Odyssey, Barry Lyndon and Clockwork Orange. “Trees” Paris, 12 July-10 November The Foundation Cartier pour l’art contemporain of Paris celebrates nature and trees in its new exhibition, dedicated to those silent and gentle inhabitants of the world. It does it through collaborations with artists, botanics and philosophers coming from all over the world. Stefano Mancuso for instance, Italian botanic who speaks about the concept of “plant’s intelligence”; Francis Hallé, whose documentary explores the deep relationship between human being and trees; and the architect Cesare Leonardi with Franca Stagi, thinking about the urban design and the peaceful coexistence of artificial and natural. The installations go through topics very different from each others, but all connected with the mysterious life of trees, about which we still know very little. The inner exposition finds a natural continue in the garden, built up in 1994 by Lothar Baumgarten: the visitor is invited to stroll around and get lost in the profound connection with the surrounding natural landscape. “Basquiat’s “Defacement”: the untold story” NYC, 21 June-6 November In 1983 Jean-Michel Basquiat realised The Death of Michael Stewart, better known as Defacement. The painting was a commemoration for Michael Stewart’s death, young black artist accused after tagging a wall in the East Village subway station. The fact had a huge influence over the art of Basquiat, who after realised many other works about it. This is the starting point for the Guggenheim Museum’s exhibition, which is based on his work and investigates his social and politic activism during the 80s. Paintings from contemporary artists are exposed as well, focused on black communities’ life during that period and the brutal role of police in the game. The exhibition is the perfect chance to engage with the artistic landscape and the cultural climate of the 80s, between politic fights, racial tendencies and AIDS crisis. “Helmut Newton” Berlin, 7 June-10 November A complete retrospective of Helmut Newton’s production is now exhibited at the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin, until November 10th. The show is an extended version of a previous exhibition from 2009, when all the photographs of the great German artist had been exposed to the public in the big format 50x70. It came after Taschen published Sumo, volume curated by Newton himself and his wife June, to gift their followers with the work of a lifetime. Vogue, Elle and Vanity Fair collaborations, the famous Big Nudes series and the black and white portraits of celebrities and friends. Together with the pictures that made him worldly famous, this year the public can access for the very first time to the private archive of the couple: Photo Collection of Helmut and June give us the possibility to deep inside Newton’s poetic and his deeper and most private recesses.

LATEST art words Giulia Greco

The exhibition begins with a focus on Kubrick’s use of the symmetrical perspective

courtesy of fondationcartier.com

“Defacement” Photo Allison Chipak, © Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, 2018

Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlino © Silvia Neri


ROW OUT Photography Ekaterina Knyazeva Style Alexandra Osina Model Alexandra c/o Avant Models Makeup, Hair Style Irina Egorova Set Design Ksenia Kukushkina

“If you go for a journey, you’ll never come back the same as you were before. Would it be of five days or five years, time doesn’t matter. The writer Baricco says that life is just as ocean waves: born and grow, they change everything. They eventually lower and go back to the starting point, but nothing left is the same. So, row out and follow the waves, do not impose your speed but take the journey as it comes. No matter what arbor you’ll dock, something inside of you will change forever during the trip. We are not made to take root, but to look everyday for a new landscape to dive into”



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Editor’s letter DESIGN & NATURE

products inspired by nature - www.audenza.com

Design is a form of self-expression that transforms our taste in tangible pieces, it is not static, on the contrary, it evolves depending on the way in which we ourselves first evolve, by trying new combinations, exploring new tastes, cultures and styles. The design reflects in the most intimate way who we are, starting from the colours chosen to adorn the living room, to the disposition of a nightstand, from the choice of textiles for the cushions, to the plasters for the walls. Behind design lies a set of choices, that are both conscious and rational, but at the same time, they are deeply driven by emotions and creativity, two constants that make a home unique. It is true that design answers to the personal need of communicating our style, but it is also strongly guided by cultural, political, environmental changes, just like any other form of art. In the previous issue we talked about the Milan Design Week 2019, in particular about how sustainability was the central theme of many creations, which objective was to inform the public about the need to modify our approach to design, by taking care of the future of our planet. From here, the interest for natural materials and simplicity is reawaken, it is a positive trend that puts nature among the first resources and sources of

p.160

inspiration for luxury interns’ creations, made to last. In this issue we will examine in depth this point, analysing how the sustainable approach is validated in everyday life and how nature is becoming one of the main sources of inspiration for design, starting from the materials implied, to the forms that want to imitate it. This is the intention of Amara Living. The British brand born in 2005 has since then decorated its client’s homes with luxury products, by also offering design pieces made by other brands. The commitment towards a more sustainable environment is at the centre of its mission, and so it proposes a long-lasting design that puts quality first. Amara’s offer is very wide and includes all the house’s parts, providing advice depending on the room one wants to decorate and suggesting the most suitable brands characterised by undisputed quality. Concerning this, Avenida Home’s kitchen linen line presents very original pieces; it proposes 100%linen products with the illustration of artist Nathalie Leté, portraying cats, a lobster and other animals. Among the well-known brands, there are Missoni, Roberto Cavalli, Versace, which offer, among the others, original cushions with pretty recognisable embroideries and prints.

words Ludovica Mucci


A by Amara is the designers’ personal collection; they propose a serie of luxury objects made with precious materials. An example is the Bickton Glass Vase, which is mouth-blown made glass with a honeycomb shape, available in blue, amber, smoke and olive colours. Or the towels made with Egyptian cotton, very delicate and soft. Strongly romantic, are the ocean-inspired cushions in 100% cotton decorated with a water colour coral design in green or blue tones. Audenza is another brand characterised by a sparkling style, suitable for a personality with vibrant tones. The brand is an online platform for interior design, creating unique, eccentric house articles since 2012, perfect for someone who is not afraid to be his or herself. In 2019, the brand has been awarded as one of the best interior design websites.

The decorations for walls are very peculiar; they are made with brass, resin and gold finishing details with the shape of insects and other animals. A celebration of nature in all its forms. To further embellish the walls the snake-shaped mirror is also available, made with polyresin and gold. Nature inspires the three founders, Amelia, Jacqui and Hollie, not only for wall decorations but also for lighting. Made in resin and gold, the table lamp with the sculpture of a monky is very particular and funny. Ocean’s motives come back again with the velvet and cotton cushion portraying a coral with vibrant colour tones.

up: blown glass vase A by Amara1 down: products inspired by nature - www.audenza.com


Editor’s letter

For Covet House sustainability is not only environmental. The brand is specialised in luxury design and it offers a very wide selection of products made by the best brands in the field. The Covet House organization is a support for the client and the brands themselves; indeed, the brands that want to collaborate with Covet House go through a very strong and detailed-oriented marketing program, thanks to which the website guarantees visibility and support starting from the creation process to the distribution, with the help of professional designers and marketeers. Social sustainability is at the centre of the brand’s politics. Covet House not only pledges itself to the research of precious materials, but it is also committed to improve the relationship between the personnel, by intensifying the strength of the design community. In order to fulfil this objective, many showrooms, stores and itinerants’ projects have been organised with the aim of creating face-to face relationships between designers, ambassadors and clients.

up: Exclusive Design Heritage Family by Boca do Lobo down: “Enchanted” brass dining table / covethouse.eu

Among the most stimulating pieces, there are the accessories and tables; from Rug Society’s hand-embroidered cushions made with silk and velvet, to Koket’s tables recalling the forests and the trees in aged brass and glass. Circu’s Animal Stools collection is very pleasant, specifically designed for children’s rooms. The collection includes three stools, each of which portrays an animal, it can be a bird, a shark or an elephant, made with velvet and with brass details. The interior provides also a compartment storage to save toys, school items and other accessories. Boca Do Lobo is a Portuguese luxury brand born in 2005 that wants to provoke emotions. The value of craftmanship and its capacity to stimulate sensations, visceral emotions, resonate through each piece of design, made with refined materials and destined to fight time thanks to its everlasting elegance.

p.162


BETWEEN LINES

up “Empire” & down “Wave” , coffee tables by Boca do Lobo / find them at covethouse.eu

Boca Do Lobo’s design evokes primordial forms, strongly linked to nature conceived as a creative force. This influence can be traced in the Monet center table, a sophisticated piece of design which linear and circular traits recall those of a tree, or in the Empire Poplar Root, the table made with a wood base, poplar root veneer and polished hammered brass, which fracture at the centre recalls those of the earth, and gives dynamism to the entire piece. Very linked to Portuguese culture, the nightstands, sideboards and cabinets of the Heritage collection, are inspired by Azulejo, a typical ornament that consists in the decoration of ceramic tile portraying scenes of Portugal history. These pieces are hand-painted by one of the 12 artists left who master the Azulejo technique. Here, the decorations portray everyday life scenes, fully immersed in natural environments. words by Ludovica Mucci


STATIC

emotions

Art Direction, Photography Domenico Petralia c/o ProductionLink Production Cross Studio Milano Style Angelina Lepper Model Arina Tenchurina c/o TheFabbrica Makeup Gimmy Arevalo Hair Style Alessandro Pompili Assistant Fabio Massari Style Assistant Rossana Lodo Post Production Virgil Hritcu

Artistic creation is, philosophically speaking, the objective representation of subjective life. Artists create to give consistence and material visibility to emotions, which are normally untouchable. Everyone of us experiment emotions and feelings, but they are fleeting, always in motion, as in a flow. Emotions are not measurable by scientific approach, and they are usually hard to explain through words. Art comes when the language is no more useful and makes movements of spirits tangible. It fixes them on canvas and offers them to human understanding.



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“the future is AURA” words Federica Caiazzo

All photos courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Let’s make it loud and clear: Aura is - and will be - the future of the fashion industry. Announced in March and eventually launched in May, the credit for this extraordinary ethical initiative goes to LVMH, the prestigious French multinational company owning luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior. To say the truth, no business plan has ever been so honest and crystalline: Aura is a tracing platform enabling consumers to access the product history behind their purchase. From raw materials’ suppliers to the very last second before the shopping experience, Aura also stands out as a game-changer to prove authenticity of luxury goods.


LVMH launches a game-changer tracing platform for luxury goods

What is more, LVMH’s praiseworthy project has already gained worldwide attention. Created in collaboration with ConsenSys and Microsoft, the natural development of Aura – which is powered by Quorum - implies the creation of a block chain consortium aimed at transforming the fashion biz. “Aura is a groundbreaking innovation for the luxury industry - said Ken Timsit, Managing Director of ConsenSys Solutions – and ConsenSys is proud to contribute and to work with LVMH on an initiative that will serve the entire luxury industry, protecting the interests, integrity, and privacy of each brand, leveraging Ethereum blockchain technology in a truly decentralized way”. Technology will in fact play a crucial role in consumers’

shopping habits: from now on, they will have the opportunity to use the brand’s application to receive the Aura certificate containing transparent information about the product, such as components and origin, environmental impact, ethical approach, product care advice and warranty services. Last but not least, an essential question: will other luxury brands follow the same path? That’s what LVMH aims at. But, because a shared joy is a double joy, the team behind Aura has already opted for a “consortium model,” allowing any fashion house to join. It will be our duty to keep an eye open on further announcements and to hope in a more ethical future.

p.175


SEA FOOD “They say an extraordinary big egg fell in the Euphrates, which fishes took to the bank and doves warmed up. From it Venus was born, goddess of love and nature. Every animal is dear to her, because she is the queen of the planet Earth and, as such, she blesses union of love and life procreation. ”

Photography Martyna Galla c/o Van Dorsen Artists Models Bree c/o Model Plus and Ania Biel c/o Uncover Models Makeup Aga Wilk c/o Van Dorsen Artists using Chanel, MAC Cosmetics, Bobbi Brown, Zoeva, Clarins, YSL, L’Oreal Paris, Make Up For Ever Hair Style Nesti Skorupka



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LATEST PARADISE

courtesy of tripadvisor.com | Opposite: photo courtesy of hotelpuntaislita.com

HOTEL PUNTA ISLITA. Costa Rica at its purest form

A romantic voyage to immerse yourself into nature. Hotel Punta Islita is a jewel situated on the beautiful Nicoya Penisula, on the Guanacaste coast. Surrounded by layers of natural beauty, it is the quintessential of beachfront hideaway. The peaceful, the scent of the sea and wild nature make this place a unique location. A hidden paradise in Central America, a charming eco-luxury beach resort in Costa Rica, a delight to behold. Punta Islita is one of the most beautiful tropical panoramas, an exclusive and engaging destination that connects guests with the vibrant culture and legendary landscape of its surroundings.


Located in a verdant remote terrace, secluded and intimate the hotel is a haven of tranquillity jungle where you could get closer to the wild nature. In fact, here sustainability follows the daily life rhythm where hoteliers, chefs, designers, volunteers and scientists contribute to preserve the ecosystem and the Costa Rican lifestyle. Designed in minimal details by the famous

architect Ronald ZĂźrcher, Punta Islita is the ideal area where elements and materials of nature find their balance: a unique mash-up, one-of-kind masterpieces that aim at the perfect sustainability. The eco-resort offers one of the best ocean views in Costa Rica, the infinity-edge pool merges with the ocean horizon, playfully reflecting spectacular cloud shapes and sky colours.

The locally inspired architectural creates a warm ambience, a relaxing place to lounge, an engaging tropical fusion design blended with indigenous style: whimsical tiles, woodworks, and colourful Costa Rican pieces for a splash of tropical-abstract arts. Wake up with the sound of the waves and the jungle, monkeys jumping

through the trees while birds dancing outside your window, you can’t help smiling stepping into your private terrace. The sublime aroma of Tico-style coffee enhances the ambience; below you, thickly forested slopes descend to the curving shoreline and the slate blue Pacific Ocean. p.190


courtesy of livethelife.tv


Costa Rica is the dreamland, a place where you have the immense privilege of living an unforgettable experience. It is pure life!

Upon entering the Hotel Punta Islita, the first thing one feels is peace and harmony. Swing gently in your hammock for a tropical-style lounging, listen to the surf boards bump into waves or treat yourself with the natural pleasures. If you really want to immerse yourself in the culture of Costa Rica you could do visiting the Islita Art Museum. Located in a cheerful building lined with colourful murals, this little museum is an imaginative contemporary art-house; it’s basically a studio and gallery, featuring artworks and handcrafts by local artists. Here, in fact, you will find figures made with wood collected from the beach, lamps from coconuts, tapestries embroidered with seeds and sea shells, lithographs print on old sheets… The area has a lot to offer, and the secluded ocean cove of Punta Islita is the ideal spot to explore the breathtaking sights, sounds and flavours. Helping the local communities and environment with a fully committed to a holistic sustainability model to differentiate and enrich your travel experience. There are those who want to immerse themselves in to nature, those who fall in love with the bohemian atmosphere of the remote rural villages, and those who want to taste the real flavours of tropical cuisine.

This heavenly place features an overflowing biodiversity. A natural wealth full of volcanic soils, healing waters and pure fresh air that make it the Mecca of “good living”. A lifestyle that locals summarise with the idiom “¡Pura Vida!”. Untouched beaches and wild nature, this is a special place where visitors could enjoy unforgettable activities and eco-adventures: jungle excursions, fishing days, diving, venturing out into the night to admire fireflies tap the ocean water and tasting “forbidden fruit” of this land. In the late afternoon, sipping a cocktail from your veranda you could observe iridescent hummingbirds, lazy iguanas, delicate blue butterflies in a heavenly garden. The atmosphere is relaxing, the piano music mingling with the sound of the ocean, what else if not the gorgeous natural scenery of tropical forest. Dine by candlelight while warm breezes blow at the water’s edge, tasting the secrets behind Costa Rica’s traditional flavours. From rice pudding to ceviche the process of “mindful cooking” becomes an authentic act of love and happiness. Everything at Punta Islita is designed to calm body and soul. words Veronica Valdambrini

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