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CONTENTS Editor’s Letter 6 Fashion Weeks SS19 article 10 Flying Feelings cover story 18 Celine New Way article 30 Under the Sun editorial 34 No more Fashion Victims article 40 The end of the World editorial 42 Designer Marine Serre article 52 Leon editorial 54 Forsythia interview 66 Your Mirror editorial 70 Latest Accessories article 77 Swedish Girl editorial 78 Like a Parisian It-Girl article 86 In Line with the Place editorial 88 Knitwear is changing article 98 The Loft editorial 102 Latest Art article 111 Lotus Eater editorial 114 Latest Beauty article 122 Transparency editorial 124 I Am Many campaign article 132 Frida editorial 134 Green Carpet Fashion Awards article 142 After the After editorial 144
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COVER STORY Photography Katia Wik Style Anita Krizanovic Model Milena Zuchowicz c/o Le Management Hair Style, Makeup Sarah Marx
EDITOR’S LETTER
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assword: Esteem. My maybe preferred concept when it concerns human beings. If I find a person to respect, sure is someone who can stay in my life. So what I’m looking for Latest are people and topics to take as a model, learn something from them. We focus on sustainable fashion and ethics, all those brands and people who are giving their contribution. Let’s find out the secrets, the tips and think on what we could do in turn. The Green Carpet Fashion Awards in Milan is an example of how the planet is trying to turn in favor of itself, and people are slowly understanding the importance of respecting the land on which they walk.
Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione
Marta Forgione
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Editor’s letter PRESIDENT, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Marta Forgione LAYOUT ASSISTANTS Giuseppe Sindoni Laura Bobak REGULAR WRITERS Giampiero Amodeo Masha Mitrofanova Djordje Veljkovic Gaétane Auffret Laura Zanovello Nina Hanz PRINT CONTRIBUTORS REGULAR PHOTOGRAPHERS Patrick Schwalb Katia Wik Weronika Kosińska Sabine Liewald Detlef Schneider REGULAR AGENCIES Nina Klein Bigoudi Munich models Agent Bauer
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Editor’s letter
Marc Jacobs | look 20
R E P O R T
Fashion Weeks
SS2019
by Djordje Veljkovic - continue to page 17 All images courtesy of Vogue | Indigital.tv
The beginning of a new fashion month is a good enough reason to celebrate, but the creative directors behind the latest spring/summer collections have managed to take the word celebrate to a whole new level. Spring/summer 19 season might go down in history as a season containing the biggest number of anniversary shows, as brands ranging from the knitwear titan, Missoni, to the reigning king of American sportswear, Ralph Lauren, celebrated their achievements by staging special runway presentations. Mary Katrantzou was among the celebrators as well, having staged her 10th anniversary show. Katarantzou’s success and persistence just show how strong stance on design combined with passion and love for what you do can result in a business that is both successful and sustainable. Before we continue analyzing the most eye-catching collections of the season, some things will need to be clarified due to the publishing time of this issue. Paris had to be omitted but don’t worry, the full Parisian fashion week trend report and review will be posted on latestmagazine. net in the following days. New York has for several seasons suffered from the lack of authentic creative voices. With Marc Jacobs and Raf Simons serving as sole torchbearers, New York fashion week almost felt like it was drowning in a sea of directionless renditions of american sportswear, but the return of two NY-bred brands brought the much needed creative reinforcement and direction. In 2017 Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have made it clear that their move to Paris may be more like a trial than a final departure, but it seems like the trial period is over. Golden boys have decided to head back home, a move which was expected to be a sale enhancer. Even though we’re huge fans of Proenza Schouler, we must admit that the latest offering of the brand may not be their most impactful one. The collection was heavily influenced by menswear tailoring: boyfriend blazers and tailored vests aplenty, and had a palpable American sensibility to it. After two seasons of designing demi couture, the boys went back to basics, using humbler materials compared to their recent offerings. Feathers and embroidery were swapped with cotton and denim, a choice perhaps influenced by the willingness to reconnect to the “real women” and their everyday wardrobe. Mulleavy sisters are another dynamic duo that has been welcomed back to New York with open arms. The sisters headed back to the motherland with a knockout collection. Rodarte took the attendees to the New York Marble cemetary, a rather haunting backdrop for a spring summer runway show, but as the rain started pouring the drama had been kicked up a notch. The clothes haven’t disappointed either, the designers upped the ante on tulle and embellishments, sending out a hit after hit, offering their own whimsical and romantic take on formal and red carpet dressing.
As London fashion week was getting closer and closer, the anticipation for the Ricardo Tisci’s impending debut for Burberry has hit an all time high. He had all eyes on him and it comes as no surprise as big house shake-ups are a rarity on the British fashion scene. The huge 134-looks collection was sectioned into a refined and streamlined first section, youthful and more relaxed second one and several evening wear looks. Many times in recent fashion history, sophomore collections have been wildly different from the debut ones, so we will refrain for commenting whether Ricardo is a good fit for the brand or not, but we will eagerly keep the eyes peeled for whatever he brings next to the table.
Prada | look 12
Burberr y |
look 24
Milan fashion week schedule has taken a serious blow as both Gucci and Bottega Veneta have decided to opt out of presenting this season. Bottega Veneta have decided to skip the show to give newly appointed creative director Daniel Lee some time to adapt and Gucci has decided to stage their latest runway show in Paris, at Le Palace. But Milanese designers have exceeded all the expectations and more than made up for the departure of aforementioned brands. The absolute highlight of the week if not the whole season was Miuccia Prada’s latest offering. The beauty look, by superstar team Guido Palau and Pat McGrath was amazing: Super thick and super long spider lashes and boyish bangs, framed by a chunky satin hairband. A modern day take on 60s beauty tropes, and the clothes followed through. Twiggy with a pinch of Catherine Deneuve in “Belle du Jour”, Prada’s latest collection fluctuates between conservatism and freedom.
Editor’s letter
Missoni staged a 65th anniversary show, incredibly impressive for a company not owned by a conglomerate. The mood was right, the night was right, and with Michael Nyman behind the piano, the stage was set for the show to begin. Layers upon layers of light and delicate knitwear in soft pastel hues made their rounds across the catwalk, dazzling the attendees as every tiny bead caught a bit of light and reflected it back to the viewer. The beauty of the collection can best be experienced by seeing the clothes in motion, as the flowiness and glimmer of the garments. Summer coats, fishnet overlays.... have rounded up the strong offering from the brand, a true ode to tradition, craftsmanship and above all humans touch in fashion.
Missoni | look 64, 15
Spring summer 2019 will be remembered as a joyous season, pivotal moment in fashion history when brands relaxed for a little bit and stopped being so risk averse, started embracing their own brand values and their own aesthetic identity, coming to a realization that there actually is a piece of the market pie for everyone, as long as the core brand values are respected, embraced and cherished. One can only hope that the next will only build upon the individuality that was displayed , and that most of the brands will get to know themselves better and everything what they stand for and presented it to the world, loudly and proudly.
The Gen-Z yellow ​ Touted as the color of the year, Gen-Z yellow hasn’t disappointed. Bright and lively hue, which draws upon the warmth of the sun rays, makes a perfect antidote for the summertime nostalgia. From the left: Max Mara Carolina Herrera Boss
Editor’s letter
The new Boho Chic
Both loose and luxe, boho chic has been reinvented for the new age. Designers have tapped into the inherent relaxed mood of the trend elevating it through new techniques and ideas.
Coach 1941 Dsquared
Dropped Waist Drop-waist dresses will all the rage next season, from NY’s Proenza Schouler to London’s own Molly Goddard, it seems as if almost everyone had their own take on one of the most covetable trends of the moment.
NO. 21 Goddard
The New Cycle Sportswear is still alive and well, and the fashion’s latest take on the trend will most certainly be the freshest one. Through embellishments and materials other than Lycra, cycling shorts got a sophisticated new update, and can now rival any of your evening wear alternatives. Fendi Prada
Moroccan Delight Many designers have admitted to traveling to Morocco prior to designing this season’s collections, drawing inspiration from the country’s rich culture and way of dressing. And who can blame them, with all the beauty the place possesses, the only thing left for us is to get inspired too. Oscar De La Renta JW Anderson
Satin
Editor’s letter
The fabric which was an evening wear staple underwent a fresh ss19 transformation. Distressed, frayed and styled down in a more casual manner, satin has proven to be much more versatile than it is given credit for.
Marni MM6 Maison Margiela
Michael Kors Etro
Surf ’s up It seems as if surfing has replaced skating as seen in the fashion’s newest sportswear obsession. Laid back yet incredibly distinct, you will be surprised how easy it is to integrate this trend into your wardrobe.
Neon Neon colors and summer seem like a match made in heaven. As the sun illuminates already fluorescent hues no passerby will be able to turn a blind eye to these looks. ​
Emporio Armani Tibi
Hellessy Cristiano Siriano
The Puff Shoulders have continued to be the main point of interest of the designers behind the hottest spring/summer 2019 collections, however it seems that fashion had decided to hit reverse. Unlike resort’s cold shoulder, ss19 has brought the volume back.
Flying fe elings Cover Story Photography Katia Wik Style Anita Krizanovic Model Milena Zuchowicz c/o Le Management Hair Style, Makeup Sarah Marx
Opening: Blouse, corsage & trousers Irene Luft Here: Body Stella McCartney by Mytheresa Trousers Arket Opposite: Top Asos
Dress Tara Jarmon Scarf House of Dagmar Opposite: Dress Working Title Boots Monki
Dress Stella McCartney by Mytheresa Boots Steve Madden Tights Oroblu Opposite: Dress Michael Sontag Tights Oroblu
Dress Tara Jarmon Boots Steve Madden Opposite: Dress Das Cape Mädchen Boots Steve Madden
Overall Susumu Ai Top Uniqlo Earrings Julia Seemann
Editor’s letter
Future perspectives of Celine by Ona Ford
It has been a thrilling period for the fashion industry since Céline announced the changes in its headquarters earlier this year. After a decade of Phoebe Philo’s unshakeable reign at the French fashion powerhouse, Hedi Slimane was chosen to take over the brand last January, leaving behind a half year filled with speculations and predictions on which direction he’s going to take at Céline. With his first show less than a month away, Slimane shared the very first results of his six-month renovation in silence. It included a take-back of brand’s original logo from 1960s, with the accent on ‘E’ eliminated and lengthened font, followed by a strong statement attempt to let go of the past by erasing all of the previous posts on brand’s Instagram account. In addition, all campaign posts released by the label had #CelinebyHediSlimane tag typed along. These changes received contrasting reactions, especially by the the former creative director’s fans, known as the Philophiles, that were fast to liken Philo’s departure to an end of brand’s greatness, while others where excited to see a new approach to the label after ten years.
By all indications, the announcement meant to reassure us - now it is Hedi’s world. No matter the feedback, it is expected that Slimane’s previous success in Dior Home and Saint Laurent will follow him to Céline, even if his visual identity greatly differs from that of his predecessor. Slimane, with positive history at hand, is thought to be an equal force to Phoebe Philo, who turned Céline into fashion’s authority after joining in 2008, with her efforts tripling the brand’s profits over the years. Miraculous is not the right term to measure the influence that Philo has had at Céline, as she turned the brand into a powerhouse for leather accessories, must-have handbags that were often sold out before they even hit the stores and utterly creative ready-to-wear pieces. It is debated whether Slimane will manage to arrive to the point that tops Phoebe’s achievements, however, as of now, he is said to be very respectful of the brand’s history, only doing exactly what he was hired to do, instilling his own vision to the brand, just as Philo
Celine SS19 | All images courtesy of Vogue | Indigital.tv
did all these years. It’s now a blueprint that has proved to work for Slimane before. He started from a blank page both at Dior Homme and Saint Laurent, eventually resulting in years of accelerated growth for both maisons that continues up until this day. Besides taking control over womenswear, leather goods, accessories, and introducing menswear, fragrance and couture upon his arrival, which will cause a major shift to the brand on its own, Slimane is bound to influence the brand at even bigger scale. Hedi is reportedly going to adopt new retail strategies in menswear’s delivery cycle, called drops, famously used by streetwear brand such as Supreme, a strategy of releasing a small portion of a collection weekly or so instead of dropping all of it at once, with the hope to attract the attention of a younger customer. This tactic is rather new, yet to be adopted by luxury fashion brands. Today, the brand’s website shows no previous product information, showing creative director’s will to exert full creative control on all facets of the fashion house. Slimane has
reportedly chosen to impact brand’s physical presence, set to remodel each and every one of 140 label’s retail stores, which comes at a cost of up to 3$ million for a smaller boutique, to 8$ million for a flagship store, as well as buy additional properties in Manhattan for a new, bigger store, as product expansion into new categories will demand accordingly larger store space. According to industry’s experts, Slimane is bound to succeed by creating balanced collection that will create a rhythm for Hedi Slimane’s Celine, consisting of core essentials - most likely wide-leg trousers, easy-towear basics, perfectly tailored, slumped suits, and statement leather accessories. Up until now, Slimane teased us with the his first creation for the house available to the public eye - a new bag, advertised in the hands of his longtime friend Lady Gaga at the Louvre, and Angelina Jolie, too. His debut collection, called Paris La Nuit, presented at Les Invalides on September 28th, 97-look breadth, was a commercial crowd puller,
Editor’s letter
a déjà vu, where Hedi Slimane completely remodelled Phoebe Philo’s Celine into his own DNA. The collection was filled with all black silhouettes, touches of metallics, disco pink and electric green here and there - mini dresses, short skirts, leather biker jackets, accented shoulders and perfectly tailored suits that were all styled with must-have cowboy boots. Slimane introduced menswear to the brand by using skinny androgyny, and all black.
With front-row guests Karl Lagerfeld and Lady Gaga observing soldiers in regal attire drumming dramatically; a giant music box opened to reveal the opening look - polka dot
strapless balloon dress, that, as all the rest of the looks coming out one after another, reassured that Slimane took us back to the archives of his work at Saint Laurent and Dior. Formerly fresh, perfectly classic and unconventional silhouette was replaced with heroin chic, fashion’s grunge maven, with a complimenting casting choice. Hedi Slimane gave us exactly what we expected, Celine that is no longer as we knew it. “You have to be yourself, against all odds,” he told Le Figaro earlier this month. To Slimane, this approach proved to bring more than positive results.
Celine SS19 | All images courtesy of Vogue | Indigital.tv
SUN under the
Photography Liz van Campenhout Style Kelly Staa Model Lisa van Beek c/o Elite model management Makeup Melanie FoĂŤh c/o Colourfool Agency
Opening: Bag Kenzo Gloves Max Mara, Dress Ana Alcazar Boots Miista London Here: Top Reinders Pearl necklace Chanel
Coat Marni Shoes Prada Panty Falke Opposite: Top Other stories
Dress Pinko Uniqueness Blazer Belstaff Boots Dior Soks Falke Baret River Island Ring Moutton Coullet Opposite: Sweater Filles a Papa Jacket Benchellal
Sustainability and the Real ‘Fashion Victims’
X
Ranked among New York, Milan and Paris as one of the world’s biggest fashion capitals, London Fashion Week attracts people from all over the world in pursuit of the newest trends and styles. However, not all these crazes can be found on the runway. The collaborative efforts of 24 Bottles and Katharine Hamnett reinforces a trend far greater than just than the fashion industry - sustainability. This partnership used a simple reusable bottle to carry its powerful message. For 24 Bottles it was a way to share its business ethics; for Katharine Hamnett it was a resurgence of her activism at London Fashion Week. For all parties involved, it was a reminder of what is really at risk when we become victims to fashion. In 1983, the fashion industry was revolutionized by Katharine Hamnett. What now seems like a banal moment in pop culture was actually the catalyst for decades’ worth of activism. All because of the British designer’s first slogan T-shirt. Influenced by tabloid covers and their attention-grabbing block letter, she printed ‘CHOOSE LIFE’ on a white T-shirt as an antiwar statement. It shook how people perceived clothes and in turn how they dressed. A year later, Hamnett made headlines across the United Kingdom for wearing a similar T-shirt protesting nuclear missiles at a reception for British Fashion Week designers hosted by then Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher. With other designers soon following, the T-shirt was thus transformed into a message board for change. However, activism alone does little without struc-
tural changes. The designer realized this long ago and transferred her personal values into business plans. She sought to reduce the degradation of the environment caused by the production of raw materials and garment construction by using environmentally friendly alternatives. Katharine Hamnett has now partnered with 24 Bottles to communicate her paramount messages through another medium while promoting and implementing further ethical solutions. Like her garments, the stainless steel bottles made by 24 Bottles also recognize the vital relationship between consumption and the environment. Their reusable product not only works to reduce plastic, but the brand offsets carbon dioxide emission by reducing production and supporting wildlife reforestation projects to reach carbon neutrality. Sponsoring lush forest to be planted made of cacao, orange, coffee, avocado ad mango trees, any production emissions made by 24 Bottles are matched. The fashion industry now creating more carbon emissions than some airlines; 24 Bottles wanted to spread their company’s values to make the world greener. With the proud words ‘NO MORE FASHION VICTIMS’ printed in bold, attendees of London Fashion Week were met with a reminder that they impact this world as consumers, even when they want to drink water. 24 Bottles and Katharine Hamnett remind the audience that sustainability is more than a passing trend, it is a revolution long overdue in the fashion industry. By Nina Hanz
Of
THE END
THE WORLD Photography Aldona Karczmarczyk | Style Michał Koszek Photography Assistant Kuba Krul | Model Julita Formella c/o Rebel Models Makeup Aga Wilk | Hairstyle Piotr Wasiński Location Scouting Szary Burek | Production Van Dorsen Artists
Opening: Dress Weronika Draus Shoes vintage Here: Top Jean Paul Gaultier archive Skirt Doom3K SocksVintage Opposite: Top 1683 Atelier Skirt Karolina Miko
Dress Martyna Sowik Sunglasses Mango Shoes vintage Opposite: Corset Vivienne Westwood archive Shorts Vintage Gloves Vintage
Jacket, trousers & cap Martyna Sowik, Headband MartaRuta Hats Shoes vintage Opposite: Dress 1683 Atelier
Jacket Vivienne Westwood archive Corset Sandra Kpodonou Headwear Marta Ruta Hats Knee socks Fiore Shoes Vintage Opposite: Dress 1683 Atelier
“
Serre is far from being infatuated with fashion, she is pragmatic, smart and stays focused.
”
MARINE SERRE The Future of French Fashion By Gaétane Auffret
1
On the wake of Paris Fashion Week, we offer you a look at the story of French up and coming designer Marine Serre. At only 26 she can already say she won the Galeries Lafayette prize, the LVMH prize and the respect of her peers. And this is without saying that she only did two seasons at Paris Fashion Week. Marine Serre was raised in Corrèze, in the South West of France. She played tennis from a young age at a high level, which heavily inspired her to create pieces incorporating sportswear elements, such as zips. Her CV is to die for, between internships at Alexander McQueen
(right after the designer’s death), Dior, Maison Margiela and Raf Simons, she left her fingerprints at various fashion houses. She now works next to Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga. The designer says it herself, her influences have nothing to do with Parisian chic. In her collections she plays with tackiness, bright colors, oversized shapes. Her designs are also centered around thrifting and repurposing items to give them a second life. For example, she created handbags out of gym balls. From her first collection, «Radical call for love» for FW17, we remember the infa-
mous color-blocked working gloves (1). Her profile is atypical: Serre is far from being infatuated with fashion, she is pragmatic, smart and stays focused. She knows that clothing means functionality and it does not only need to look good. During this PFW, on Tuesday morning, Serre presented her latest collection introducing two new lines: menswear and couture, bringing even more to her al-
ready diverse brand (which includes a «normal» line, an avant-garde one and an upcycling line). The main pattern was the half crescent moon which could be seen on spandex outfits or denim jackets. The cast was diverse, going as far as having kids walking down the runway. Once again, Serre made quite the obsession, let’s hope her future is at bright as it seems to be.
Marine Serre SS19 at Paris Fashion Week
LEON
Photography Emanuele Savoia Style Gian Luca Fonderico Model Chin Chin c/o Independent Model MGMT
Makeup Annie Mols Hair Style Erisson Musella Retouch Jordan Hartley
Opposite: Gym Suit Salvatore Vignola | Backpack Compagnia del Viaggio
Here: Shirt STMA by Stefania Marra | Pants FASE Factory | Accessories Studiozerovetro, Luca Wegan
Opening: Kimono Shrug Shinko | Glasses Eyepetizer | Brooch & Ring Giovanni Scafuro | Harness Luca Wegan, & STMA by Stefania Marra | Tights Sguardi Segreti
Vest STMA by Stefania Marra | Glasses Eyepetizer | Body Freeda | Handcuffs Luca Wegan
Dress Salvatore Vignola | Bum Bag Nicce London | Necklace Studiozerovetro | Choker used as bracelet Luca Wegan Opposite: Jacket Bershka Collection | Pants STMA by Stefania Marra | Bag Hibourama | Choker Luca Wegan
Bomber CO|TE | Backpack Nicce London Opposite: Shirt Roberto Fragata | Vest & Jacket CO|TE | Skirt STMA by Stefania Marra
Shirt Roberto Fragata | Jacket STMA by Stefania Marra
Latest Interview
By Laura Zanovello
If we wanted to describe our society in just one word, fast would probably a good one. We are indeed used to be able to have everything now and to dispose of it as fast as we obtained it. We expect it to be that way, disregarding the consequences. Fashion is a prime example that shows how this velocity can become very toxic, both on the environment and under social and ethical aspects. One of these dissident voices is Catherine Kim and her brand Forsythia. Her mission is to make slow fashion. What does this mean though? In a nutshell, it means that all of her garments are designed and made in New York, in an ethical and controlled way, with high quality and eco friendly fabrics. To better understand the complex work that goes into this newborn brand, we had a chat with Catherine, founder and designer of Forythia, who talked us through her job and passion.
Creating an environmentally and socially conscious clothing line ties all the things that I love together.
Forsythia | Another Beginning Collection
Can you tell us about your background and what inspired you to start your own brand? I was an assistant designer for an evening wear company for five years prior to starting Forsythia. During the time, I loved my work for the aspect of creating. It was exciting to see my creations go down the runway and see them on celebrities. However, I found it difficult to feel completely fulfilled. At a certain point, I told myself, “This
CATHERINE KIM X
FORSYTHIA is temporary. I need to step away to find what is more meaningful to me.” I decided that I needed to see the bigger picture. How can I give back? How can I change myself and the world? What can I do to improve? Creating a conscious clothing line ties all the things that I love together - social, ethical, and environmental values with my love for creating art and new expressions. What was the biggest challenge you faced at the beginning of this journey and the biggest reward? The biggest challenge was learning to deal with the front end of things. As a designer, you are almost always in the back room - sketching and constructing garments behind the scenes. As an introvert, I had been quite comfortable doing just that; however, I had to learn to be the face of the company and communicate to others what my vision is so that they can understand it. The greatest joy and reward in starting Forsythia has been setting my creative potential free.
What does sustainability mean to you and how does it reflect on your creations? There is a quote I love by Edvard Munch that says, “From my rotting body, flowers shall grow and I am in them and that is eternity.” Sustainability means knowing where your clothes come from and how it will go back to the grounds of where it came from. As the quote suggests, as the “body” of the garment decays, we will be able to grow and create new things from it. We have taken so much from nature and our planet, and it is crucial now to understand the effects we have had on it. In educating oneself and becoming more aware of our consumer habits, we can begin to heal - both the planet and the people.
Do you think the concept of sustainability influences the aesthetics of your brand in any way? Absolutely - the aesthetics and the garments’ silhouettes tend to be very fluid as nature is. The color palettes are often inspired by nature, as well. What type of women you have in mind when designing? I imagine women of both strength and softness - women who can display power and sturdiness, but can also provide warmth and kindness to the world. When thinking about a new collection, where does the process start and what inspires you? (Colours, silhouettes, materials, images and feelings..) I find inspiration mostly in the varied expressions of humanity and our society - “what does it mean to be human?” The first collection, called “Cusp of Change”, was inspired by the time and space between an end and a new beginning. It is the bittersweet, melancholy moment before the sun rises to reveal a new beginning. It is the moment the sun begins to warm the cold, hard ground. I find that I am mostly inspired by intangible ideas - rather than literal, physical things. The current collection is inspired by non-conformity. I am inspired by all those who do not conform to the rigidity of society, and are not afraid to show the world who they really are - that is the only way to show others how we can co-exist.
Where do you see yourself and your brand in ten years time? I hope to continue my contribution to the conscious fashion movement in hopes that it will grow and reach as many people as possible. In terms of Forsythia as a brand, I would like to bring a wider range of designs and clothing for all different types of women, and even men, in the future. What advice would you give to someone who wants to be more sustainable but also loves fashion? I would say to imagine your clothing as you would imagine a meal. A meal consists of produce that has been planted and grown by farmers. Think of the earth that nourished the fruits and vegetables in order for you to consume them. Will we be able to give back to the earth that provided for us? Are we hurting the planet through the process at all? Also, imagine the farmer, the grocer, the chef, and the waitress. Imagine the lives of the people who have touched your food in one way or another - are they happy? are they safe? So, are the components of the clothing bio-degradable and ecoconscious? How are we, as a brand or even as a consumer, affecting the lives of the people who create our garments? ​ ​
photography JUAN QUEIROLO | style BÁRBARA VÉLEZ | model NORA VAI c/o Apmodels | makeup YANI URBINA | hair style BRITTAN WHITE
Opening: Left: Bag Ajaie Alaie Right: Blazer Installation Brooklyn Here: Dress Installation Brooklyn Hat Installation Brooklyn
Shirt Installation Brooklyn Pants Ajaie Alaie Shoes Maryam Nassir Zadeh Opposite: Dress Installation Brooklyn Shoes Camper
Dress Ajaie Alaie
LATEST Accessories by Emma Cook
2. It’s All-White | White boots
Fashion barometer du-jour, Virgil Abloh, confirmed that boots will be nothing if they’re not white this winter, when he sent his models down the runway in head-to-toe white at Louis Vuitton. But before your pulses start racing contemplating the cleaning logistics of white footwear, do not panic, as the hottest boots around this season will be in wipe-clean materialsthink latex, PVC and rubber. If you’re still concerned, why not go the whole hog and get yourself a pair of Wellington-style boots as seen at both Prada and Calvin Klein?
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1. Frivolous Fur | Coloured fur accessories
Fear not animal lovers, as this season fur will be as faux as it is fun. Forget the tortoiseshell and leopard print furs of old, fur is being reinvented and it’s here to play. A great way to include a pop of colour into your winter wardrobe which is too often abandoned after the last Aperol spritz. Head for a hairy bag in a pink hue to brighten up those gloomy winter days and enjoy the amused looks from strangers on your commute.
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3. Caps Lock | Logo caps
Perfect for those bad hair days, caps are back in a big way for A/W18. Emblazoned with designer logos, these hats will be a big part of the 80s renaissance trend meaning the more outrageous, the better. As the trend giant that is Athleisure also fails to show any signs of relenting, a cap could be an ideal segue into the sports trend for those who aren’t quite prepared to don a full tracksuit and sneakers.
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4. Let’s Wrap It Up | The Headscarf The headscarf will be a major player this autumn, its revival acting as a reflection of brands’ moves towards greater inclusivity, as well as being a reference to the Catholicism theme seen at this year’s Met Gala. Brands have been experimenting with the potential of the headscarf, using them from bag straps to ankle accessories as seen at Off-White. As versatile in prints as they are in styling, this accessory promises longevity as the heritage prints which dominate this autumn will be adapted to suit coming seasons.
SWEDISH Photography & retoucher Christopher Mertz Style Caroline Ryttergaard Model Isabelle Blomqvist c/o Le Management Makeup, Hair Style Maja Provstgaard
Opening: Hat Vintage Dress Selected Femme Belt RE:Designed Here: Top Modstrรถm Pants Selected Femme Boots Bianco Jewellery Pernille Corydon
Dress Modstrรถm Jacket Nelly Boots Bianco Jewellery Pernille Corydon Opposite: Dress Modstrรถm Sweater Sparkz Boots Bianco
Blazer ELLOS Shirt ELLOS Pants Selected Femme Jewellery Pernille Corydon Opposite: Jacket American Vintage Jacket Modstrรถm Dress Samsoe Samsoe Shoes Bianco Jewellery Pernille Corydon
Jacket American Vintage Jacket Modstrรถm Dress Samsoe Samsoe Jewellery Pernille Corydon Opposite: Dress Sparkz Sweater Second Female Jewellery Pernille Corydon
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HOW TO DRESS LIKE a Parisian
Hit-Girl
Caroline De Maigret, Jeanne Damas, Lou Doillon...ever wondered where all of these French muses dress? We all know their basics: white tees, breton stripes and leather jackets but where do they get them? We made a selection of the high-end stores who sit at the heart of the Parisian closets for you. By GaĂŠtane Auffret
LATEST BRANDS 1. Rouje Founded by It-girl Jeanne Damas, the brand is based on the Parisian girl fashion staples: mini-skirts, floral dresses and bootcut pants. Retro, chic and effortless, Rouje combines everything we envy French girls for. Feminine but casual, the key fabrics of the collections are silk, jean and cotton.
2. Musier
Musier is the brand created by Instagram influencer Adenorah (AnneLaure Mais) in March 2018. Musier is a feminine take on vintage pieces, in a classic, effortless way. All of the pieces are made in their Parisian ateliers and the fabrics come from European manufacturers. Adenorah comes up with a new collection every two months. Our favorite pieces? The floral summery mini dresses.
3. SĂŠzane
Launched by Moragne SĂŠzalory (SĂŠzane being her name and surname combined) in 2013, this is the brand dressing everyone in Paris. The brand comes up with four collections a year (plus limited editions). The pieces are timeless, but always with a twist, in their shapes, patterns or colors.
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4. Maje
Maje is certainly the most famous brand out of these four. Indeed, it is the brand behind the best seller M bag. After giving birth to Sandro with her sister, Judith Milgrom launched Maje in 1998. This French brand is a staple when it comes to chic and vintage style. Trendy but not too much, the goal is to be comfortable while being sexy.
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IN LINE WITH
THE PLACE
Photography Katharina Werle | Style Lisa Maria Lohmann Model Maria Zubtsova c/o Blow Models Hair Style, Makeup Evelyn Innerhofer c/o Bigoudi
Opening: Blouse Antik Batik | Trousers MiH Jeans | Boots Sioux | Earrings Macimo Here: Blouse Ganni | Skirt Nobi Talai | Earrings Macimo Opposite: Dress Nobi Talai | Earrings Macimo
Coat Dorothee Schumacher | Trousers Judith Bondy Opposite: Shirt | Dagmar | Trousers Tara Jarmon | Collar Richert Beil
Shirt Rika | Trousers Judith Bondy | Earrings Macimo Opposite: Blazer, Trousers Rika | Body Marina Hoermanseder | Earrings Macimo
Knit Maiami | Shirt Richert Beil | Trousers Paul&Joe Sister | Earrings Macimo
the brands changing how we think about
K N ITW EA R by Nina Hanz
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nitwear might be the hardest working garment in your wardrobe. A bold statement, yes, but it’s seniority does not justify its lack of recognition. Dating back to the Ancient Egyptians and surging after its expansion across 5th century civilizations, few textiles have travelled across the globe the same way knitwear has. And despite the industrialization, innovation and diversification of the fashion industry, it remains a prominent feature in contemporary fashion and textile design. Whether it is by hand or machine, the basic, primeval techniques still remain. This legacy, together with its tireless efforts to provide warmth, comes with a certain under appreciation, if not neglecting, reliance on knitwear. However, there are brands challenging this notion and upgrading how we think about it.
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Part of the reason for knitwear’s outmoded association might come from its reputation as a matronly hobby. And instead of fighting this stereotype, Mumshandmade [4] has leaned into this belief. Since 2013, this family business has been employing local mothers from the Greek city of Thesaloniki to create high quality garments. However, their heartfelt cardigans are anything, but traditional. Known for their ballooning sleeves, Mumshandmade designs oversized knitwear for an equally cosy and trendy outfit. With a relaxed silhouette and pompon-like details, this socially responsible brand is appropriating the handicraft of knitting into a opulent statement piece. If Mumshandmade represents the traditional roots, the eponymous label Liisa Soolepp [1] represents the future.
Blending both ethical standards with geometric patterns, the Estonian designers reinvents Nordic knitwear for the modern audience. As described by Soolepp: “My drive is the world of patterns and textures. You can discover them everywhere—in natural or in unnatural, human or not environments. Archaic and modern, geometric and abstract ones. To let them tell their stories and build them up, create paths through them, to make us wander along these roads. […] The garment for me is like a talisman, which creates inspirational space and atmosphere around the wearer”. And it is through this architectural conception that Liisa Soolepp recreates contemporary knitwear while at the same time envisioning a new perception for it.
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In a similar style, British brand Blake LDN [2] crafts a familiar, yet inventive oeuvre out of yarn. As a conscious and contemporary label, the UK brand emphasizes its sourcing and manufacturing to ensure a sustainable product. Founded by ethical fashion maverick Alice Ashby, classic knitwear products are subtly reinvented for delightful basics. Yet, the most innovative brand currently on the market is PH5 [3]. Wei Lin, the daughter of a knitwear manufacturer, and Mijia Zhang, an award-winning designer, established their brand in New York in 2014. Since then, the label has challenged what seems to be all conventions of the industry through technical developments and textiles. Businesssavvy Lin explained, “When people think of sweaters, they think of the white, the black, the plain, the cashmere, the chunky
knits, but they don’t think of knitwear as something that can be interesting or fun. Nobody’s pushing the envelope on knitwear”. However, this fashion duo has done just that. By giving knitwear a more athletic appearance and combining it with whimsical shapes, the brand has broadened the fashion industry’s expectation of knitwear. While PH5 surely marks a new phase for knitwear, as spectators, we begin to celebrate knitwear’s long-lasting efforts to remain a prominent force in fashion.
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The
LOFT
Photography Dominika Jarczyล ska | Style Elwira Korus | Model Hannah Kleit c/o M+P Models London | Makeup Kornelia Wawrzkรณw | Retouch Marcin Mikus
Opening: Earrings EKRIA | Blouse Maya Li | Slip Pierre Balmain Here: Cropped top Wesley Harriott | Trousers Stella McCartney | Shoes Kim Kwang
Opposite: Coat Roberta Einer | Trousers Roberta Einer | Earrings EKRIA | Shoes Kim Kwag
Earrings EKRIA | Blazer Aphid | Vest Stella McCartney | Trousers Aphid | Belt Self Made | Shoes Kim Kwang
Top Irene Sj Yu | Trousers Maya Li | Shoes Irene Sj Yu
Dress Aphid | Leather corset Malan Breton Opposite: Denim Jacket MYOB | Trousers Ashley Isham | Shoes Kim Kwang
Earrings EKRIA | Blazer Aphid | Vest Stella McCartney | Trousers Aphid | Belt Self Made
LATEST ART By Masha Mitrofanova 1. LONDON | Frida Kahlo: Making Herself Up Female artists to this day are distinguished by many factors. Are they portraying a personal experience and suffering? Do they deem themselves intersectional feminists? Are they in any way influenced by the predecessor (whom surely must be a male)? Incorporating fashion into the way we see influential figures in art history can be perceived as diminishing their achievements per se, but with the prominent legend like Frida Kahlo this is hardly the case. Her style made visual culture history and so Kahlo’s sartorial choices as much a part of her mysterious phenomena is now on display. V&A 16.06 - 4.11.2018 2. BARCELONA | Gala Dalí: A Room of One’s Own in Púbol Surrounded by as much myths as Salvador Dalí himself, this remarkable woman has led an extraordinary life regardless of her partner’s influence. Elena Ivanovna, known as Gala or the master mind behind the artistic genius Dalí, is mostly remembered as a muse. Yet, there is much more to the protagonist of some of the most famous paintings that we know today. MNAC 6.07 - 14.10.2018 3. PARIS | Miró: Retrospective The works of Spanish painter and sculptor, celebrated for his inventive and brave take on surrealism in the 20th century, are combined together in a major exhibition of 250 art works. Paintings, ceramics, drawings and sculpture cover 70 years of creation and stylistic evolution of the artist. Grand Palais 3.10.2018 - 4.02.2019 4. MILAN | Carlo Carrà 30 years have passed since Carrá’s retrospective at Palazzo Reale and so it was about time that the master of futurism coalesced with metaphysics is showcased in the city where he studied art at the acclaimed Brera Art Academy. Along with Umberto Boccioni and Luigi Russolo, Carlo Carrá is the one whom signed the famous Manifesto of Futurist Painters and the Technical Manifesto of Futurist Painting. The exhibition will provide an opportunity to witness the artist’s radical and opinionated position, Picasso’s influence on his work as well as his later bloom into the impressionist naturalism.Palazzo Reale 4.10.2018 - 3.02.2019
LOTUS
eater Photography IVONNE VEITH | Model VALENTINA c/o MOST WANTED MODELS Hair Style, Makeup KERSTIN HAJDU using LANCOME and DAVINES | Retouch THEVISUALCRAFTROOM
BEAUTY By Gaétane Auffret
1. Sparkle of glitter From the full on disco ball faces at Giambattista Valli to the discreet sparkly nails of Cushnie Et Ochs models, runaways have been overflowing with glitter lately. Sparkles have been around for a few seasons now and surprisingly, this bold trend seem to be sticking around. Get ready to spice up your winter attire by
adding a touch of glitter to your face. Whether you want to go for a subtle eyeshadow look or feel daring enough to wear a full on shiny face, you will be the star of this cold season. Our product of choice: Make Up Forever, Star Lit powder, N°15 Golden Rose (22,00€)
Autumn/Winter beauty trends
4. Eyeing up the future Have you ever imagined living in the future? Ever fantasied about flying cars, robots and spacesuits? Well, the world does not have a concrete answer for all of those yet but Jeremy Scott and Derek Lam have a say on the matter. Indeed, the eyes of their A/W collections’ models seem to have a way of looking straight at the future. Futuristic eye makeups are in and that means being bold is your only option. Become your 2048 self this autumn with a bit of eyeliner and eyeshadow work. Our product of choice: Urban Decay, Razor Sharp, Junkshow (23,50€)
2. Red lips and wine sips Red lips have been there for more decades that we can count on our fingers, however, when it comes to these, classic does not rhyme with boring. How dull can a red lip be anyway? Think about the thousands of different shades you can play with. Winter will be the perfect time to bring a pop of colour to your outfits. Brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Rochas or Alexander McQueen all went back to this classic beauty look to present their F/W collections. It is officially time to bring out your mom’s favorite lipstick. Our product of choice: Yves Saint Laurent, Tatouage Couture, N°12 Red Tribe (35,50€)
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3. Rebellious smokey With collections inspired by the 1968’s riots or the 1980s punk in London, makeup had to follow on the rebellious vibes. Heavy eye makeup is back on the catwalks of brands such as Max Mara, Tom Ford or Saint Laurent. It surely looks like your wild side will have a moment this season so you better start digging out your black eyeshadows. Smokey eyes are back and they are here to stay. Our product of choice: Tom Ford, Ombre Extrême, TFX10 Black (35,00€)
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Transparency
Photography Weronika Kosinska Model Agnes c/o SD Models Makeup, Hair style Ania Wogerer using Caudalie, Elizabeth Arden, Embryollise, Becca, Mac Cosmetics, Ysl, Charlotte Tilbury, Bobbi Brown
Rebecca Minkoff’s new Feminist Squad by Laura Zanovello
I AM MANY
“Fearless doesn’t mean you don’t have fear. It means that, as you look fear head on, shaking in your boots, you do what’s scaring you anyways.” This is how Rebecca Minkoff interprets her woman, a strong yet kind individual, someone with many different shades, a person that wants to create a positive impact on the world. Being a mother, an artist, an entrepreneur, or becoming President of the United States, fighting against stereotypes and for everyone’s rights, without ever hiding their vulnerability but instead wearing it with pride, all that and so much more are the women protagonist of the new campaign, “I Am Many”. “Together we are unstoppable”, the designer declares in her video-manifesto her will to represent women’s multidimensionality and strength, to prove that putting together their resources and energy leads to extraordinary results. Launched in September during last New York Fashion Week, the initiative is a real movement in which Minkoff invites everyone to take part, telling their story to the world through the hashtag #IAmMany motto printed on a TShirt- with the possibility to be featured on the Instagram page of the brand. The keyword is, therefore, diversity.
The designer decided to represent this complex subject with the aid of ten one minute long videos, in which the main characters are women defined by a strong individuality and background, yet with the same desire to make their voice be heard and uphold other women. Each and everyone with different shapes and sizes but nonetheless a perfect model for the Holiday/Resort and AW 2018 collections which garments are available online and in store with the “See Buy Wear” formula of which Rebecca is an early adopter and believer.
The use of technology and social networks has always been crucial in the fashion designer’s work. “I Am Many” was born as the evolution of the “RMSuperwoman” platform, a section of her website that gathers the stories and faces of the organizers and participants of the Woman’s March that took place last March in Washington. This then recently further developed on the namesake Facebook page, where Minkoff takes care of an interactive space to inspire women to live a fearless life, to face what scares them and share it, to learn that the only real defeat takes place when they let fear paralyze them and prevent them from acting in fear of failing. This personal involvement into social medias makes her and her brand highly accessible, reflecting her will to create a bond with her consumers and inspire them, making them feel part of this community of “Superwomen”. Lifting women is for Rebecca a real mission in life that echoes not only on her creations and her use of social networks, but also on her Female Founders Collective initiative. This organization was born to help female founders create new connections and give each other a hand, wether it be economically, socially or legally. The main goals are supporting women’s businesses grow and leverage on women’s entrepreneurial ability for a a consequent positive impact on the world. According to some studies, granting a higher economic power to women, would result in an economic development since it is women, more than men, that tend to invest their salaries on their families and communities. These important initiatives and the great consensus received, are proof of the general need to talk more about themes such as feminism, diversity and equal rights. These matters are far from being simple and they appear to be in contrast with some habits of the fashion environment, but they are nonetheless, slowly but steadily, making their way to the surface, thanks to figures like Rebecca Minkoff.
Frida
Photography Sarah Dulay Style Susi Bauer Model Natascha C/O Brodybookings Hair Style, Makeup Kerstin Hajdu Using Lancome & La Biosthetique Hairproducts
Opening: Earrings Balenciaga Blouse Lee Mathews Scarfs (Hair) Hermes Here: Blouse Ellery Earrings Annie Costello Brown Opposite: Top Selfportrait Earrings Marni
Earrings Saint Laurent Opposite: Earrings Jennifer Fisher Dress Oscar De La Renta Hairpiece Gucci
Blazer Alexander Mcqueen Earrings Isabel Marant Blouse Preen By Thornton Bregazzi Opposite: Blouse Bottega Veneta Jacket The Row Earrings Balenciaga
The Green Carpet Fashion Awards By Masha Mitrofanova
Angela Missoni presented and delivered The Changemaker Award to Cameron Russell ​
Milan Fashion Week was completed with a gleaming event, drawing closer attention to sustainability and environmental awareness. Milan has been trotting behind other fashion capitals, with its shortage of innovation and distinct lack of nurture towards young talents. It is only safe to say that the GCFA can become a caterpillar to drawing further attention to the Italian fashion sector. Held at Milan’s very much celebrated La Scala Theatre, the event boasted with internationally recognized celebrities: Julianne Moore and Cate Blanchett, prominent fashion industry figures like Anna Wintour and Donatella Versace, as well as modern game-changers - model and activist Cameron Russell and Halima Aden. The garments floating the green carpet were stating the obvious - to preserve our planet and make effort towards unconventional design that breaks engraved boundaries. Cindy Crawford showcased a Versace gown, embellished with Swarovski’s lead-free Advanced Crystals and organic satin. Isabeli Fontana strutted a resourced Missoni dress, the materials from which derived and repurposed from the archives since 2013 (not to
to mention a 100% cotton fringe yarn). Salvatore Ferragamo showcased an innovative material made of recovered sea plastic and metal-free leather worked with no water consumption or CO2 emission (paraded effortlessly by Julianne Moore herself). Among the 13 awards presented the winners of the night included Vogue International Editor, Suzy Menkes, whom received the Visionary Award (for championing the extraordinary makers) and notably Elle Macpherson, who was presented with the Wellness Award. Considering recent events - Donna Karan and DKNY ditching fur for good, following fashion moguls like Furla and Armani, not to forget Gucci, spreading like wildfire its sudden animal’s rights activism - the second Green Carpet Fashion Awards seems right on time. Hopefully, soon enough, the moguls like Stella McCartney or young generation in the likes of Marine Serre will not be a lonely dominant in the news of fashion sustainability.
Alison Brie and Nerio Alessandri presented and delivered The Wellness Award at Elle McPherson ​
Photography Aleksander Salski | Style Anita Szymczak Model Olga Krasova c/o Specto Models Makeup Kasia Biały | Ph Assistant Szymon Gosławski
Opening: Dress MMC | Shoes Aldo Here: Fur The Beast
Opposite: Shirt Jacquemus
Shirt Intimissimi | Trousers Uterque | Shoes Badura
Body MOIESS | Trousers Dreis Van Noten | Erring Uterque
Shirt Zara | Short sIsabel Marant | Shoes Mango
Opposite: Shirt Jacquemus | Choker Lanvin
Dress &other stories
Dress MMC | Shoes Uterque | Tights Calzedonia Opposite: Shirt Jacquemus | Skirt PINKO | Bangle Uzerai
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