JUNE ISSUE - digital version ENG by Latest Magazine

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CONTENTS 86

Editor’s Letter 6 Resort 2020 Review article 10 Sparkling Sand editorial 16 H&M Conscious Collection article 28 Spectrum editorial 34 Valentina Quinn interview 46 Interwine Me editorial cover 52 Popular names in modern art article 62 In Your Room editorial 68 Must Have fall 2019 article 80 Gracieusement cover story 86 Sustainability at Design Week article 94 Rooftop editorial 98 Organic Cosmetic’s trend article 110 Soft Touch editorial 114 Stand Out: niche perfumes article 122 Smell Like Heaven editorial 126 Accessories must have F/19 article 134 Pose editorial 136 Ookioh swimwear interview 148 First Stage editorial 154 Best art exhibitions article 163 The Ocean Cay MSM’s Paradise article 164 Desert Dusk editorial 168

COVER STORY Photography Michael Groeger Style Gabriela Santighian Model Nya Gatbel c/o Louisa Models Makeup, Hair style Anja EL Sawaf c/o Les Artists Production Zero-8 Productions Digital Benedikt Greif

EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LETTER 136

assword: Hope. In the same historical moment where in fashion and art in general more and more movements like the #metoo, the inclusion, the interest towards sustainability are born, here we also live the return of the fear of the different, of the racism and extremist policies in our everyday lives. All that we can do is hoping for knowledge and intelligence, to avoid a new chaotic future. In this issue we talked about all these issues in two important interviews, and we tried to represent them in images in our editorials, looking for a bright path. Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione

Marta Forgione

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Editor’s letter PRESIDENT, CHIEF EDITOR Marta Forgione martaforgioneph@gmail.com Raimondo Scintu, 78 street - 00173 Roma (Italia) CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE: LAYOUT Giuseppe Sindoni Laura Bobak Giulia Greco WRITERS Giulia Greco Ludovica Mucci Laura Zanovello Veronica Valdambrini PHOTOGRAPHERS Michael Groeger, Alessandro Esposito, Mag Juchnik, Oliver Beckmann, Det Kempke, Drew Shearwood, Elizabeth Gibson, Alex Hutchinson, Martin Tomecko AGENCIES Louisa models, Les Artists, Premier Model Management, Elite models Milano, ProductionLink, Freelancer Agency, Rebel Models , Mango models, MN Creative, Uno models, Ana Prado Management, Nina Klein represents, MiLK Management London, Promod Model Agency, Titanium model mgmt, Focus model management, Zero-8 Productions ADVERTISING hello.latestmagazine@gmail.com Rome Italy 2019 | p.iva 15126391000 | ROC registration n. 32682 Bi-monthly publication by LATEST srls unipersonale in February, April, June, August, October. Printed by Facciotti s.n.c - Vicolo Pian Due Torri 74, 00146 Rome (Italy) Available in digital and printed version on latestmagazine.net Distributed by Asendia Italy Spa | price on website € 15 - digital € 4.5 Recommended retail price: IT €15 UK £16 US $14 EU €15

PURECOLLECTION.COM

Editor’s letter

In the delirious landscape of today’s fashion, Resort collections are a central event, as much important as the traditional fashion weeks. Dreamy locations, selected clients and wearable collections are the three common denominators of those shows, which usually take place between May and June. The name Resort come from the purpose of those shows when they first appeared ten years ago: pre-collections for wealthy clients who use to spend holidays in exotic countries during the winter period. The event then rapidly grow and expanded, losing its first connotation and becoming preview of the following fashion weeks’ shows. The phenomenon is also linked with the fast fashion’s development, guilty of speeding up the production (as much as now it is scarcely sustainable). High fashion brands try to answer to the needs of modern consumers as well, who expect new trends and stimulation very often and very quickly. On the other hand, working out of the closed rhythm of fashion weeks makes it possible for designers to better present their works, and for clients to better enjoy new seasonal trends. In this sense it is not a huge leap to say that Resort collections are a breeding ground for luxury brands, which can now offer again real valuable products and experiences to their audience, composed of few selected consumers.

RESORT 2020

REVIEW Written by Giulia Greco - to page 14 Here: Dior cruise 2020, photo Giovanni Giannoni / WWD Opposite page: Chanel cruise 2020 photo Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

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The front row of Resort shows is highly variegated and “normal” clients sit next to international buyers and fashion editors. Those clients, as said before, are the wealthiest ones, willing to buy straight after the shows. Also, the locations where the runways take place are carefully chosen. Sometimes it is a city with a peculiar relationship with the brand or that fully interprets its values and style, as it was for the TWA Flight Center for Louis Vuitton. Some others cities are chosen because of the market, where the clients live and spend their money, and this is why in past few years Asiatic countries and Emirates have been popular destinations.

After Karl Lagerfeld’s death last February, Chanel was the most awaited show for the Resort season. For the first time Virginie Viard, thirty years right-hand of the Master, was alone in the background and her solo obviously arose a major debate - even if we should keep in mind that Lagerfeld revised this last collection, which cannot be considered totally independent. The location was, according to some, not very consistent and “empty”, if compared with the high level of spectacularization reached in the last years of Lagerfeld’s hegemony. The show, opened by Vittoria Ceretti in a black suit, presented both items which recalled Chanel’s traditional aesthetic and new and unusual elements. The Resort collection has been the first step towards a change that shall occur, even if no one already knows what direction to. The situation is a fertile ground for speculations and fake news. At the beginning of the show denim suits and military shapes’ jackets are softened by bows and ruches, underlining the meeting between feminine and masculine which has always been the fundamental characteristic of the French Maison. The street attitude is amplified with leggings and jumpsuits with Chanel’s patterns, balanced with classic jackets in sorbet colours’ palette, like mint green and red. A combination’s game that seems to be the fil rouge of the show and which acts also as a symbol for the turbulent sea Chanel is facing in this very moment. Leather is used as well for wide culottes, jumpsuits and skirts, and alternated with the traditional jacquard. Only towards the end of the collection the audience had the chance to find Lagerfeld’s touch: light and floating dresses, in blues, violet and pastel pink, with black satin refinements, and candid white tweed suits with floral patterns shirts - the omnipresent camelia, Coco’s flower. Shoes and accessories were faithful to Chanel’s models: chains and pearls, flat ballerine shoes and black-and-white boots, and a traffic light bag. To pay homage to Lagerfeld no-fingers gloves, as the one he used to wear everyday, in blue and pink, and shirts’ strict white collars.

Editor’s letter

Maria Grazia Chiuri goes on with her personal social commitment with the Resort collection shown in Marrakech. An exclusive location, background live music, soft light and the collection itself, all together to celebrate the African continent. It is meant to be the start of a long relationship with locals craftsmanship and ancient traditions to be protected. But also an anthem to inclusivity, as the show has been defined lately, which takes place perfectly in the values’ chain of the French House. The collection has been made in collaboration with local talents, the most famous one Pathe’O, Nelson Mandela’s personal tailor. A look of the show is made just to pay homage to Mandela and it takes the move, as others do, from the traditional Dior’s shape, reinvented and adapted to the African style. Ethereal dresses, suits and kaftan have been made with Wax fabric in a little company sited on the Ivory Coast, Uniwax, which works to spread and develop African fashion in the world. Wax fabric, dominant in Dior’s collection, come from an ancient story: born in Holland during the XIX century, arrived firstly in Indonesia and then reached Africa, where it made the fortune of many local businessmen. Between the artisans and designers Chiuri decided to work with, we want to name Grace Wales Bonner and Mickalene Thomas, who revisited the famous Bar jacket and the matched skirt, and Martine Henry and Daniella Osemadewa, specialized artisans in turbans. The show’s set itself was made by a very special organization, Sumano, whose commitment to recover and support traditional craftsmanship is helping the female Moroccan population. The meeting between feminine silhouette and African fashion built up a unique collection, which can be considered the visual translation of Chiuri and Dior’s teams values and beliefs. The event’s teaser cited a Moroccan writer whose books and pomes are engaged against racism, Tahar Ben Jelloun. In Racism Explained to my Daughter he writes “Culture teaches us to live together, teaches us that we’re not alone in the world, that other people have different traditions and ways of living that are just as valid as our own”.

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Dior Cruise 2020 show photo Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Also Prada’s Resort collection reminds us that fashion is not glitz only but something deeper in our own culture. Every Prada’s show invites us to reflect and, under a clean and clear surface, we can always find many hidden meanings. This was also for the Resort collection 2020, shown in New York. Clean shapes, full and plain colors, classic patterns. Nothing excessive and loud, but a quite sea where to immerse to escape - and rise up against - modern fashion’s noise. All other brands try to adapt to an aesthetic voted to exaggeration (it’s not by chance that this year Met Gala’s topic was Camp), while Prada wants to stand up. Not a critique to the current fashion system only, but also a general reflection to the modern politic and economic’s landscape, as to say that in this chaotic world the only (reasonable) answer is go back to simplicity. The main fabric of the collection is cotton, used for hand-embroidered blouse and shirts, match with leather, suede and faille. Colors are the only element Miuccia Prada played with, and are navy blue, light blue and pastel pink, floral patterns and (many) stripes. The impact accessorie is the scarf, thin and made with giant paillettes. Feminine and masculine meet and mix together and the result is the extremely modern woman of Prada, strong and independent but still voted to playful and chic elements which define female fashion. The show payed also homage to the bowling bag, which turn 20 this year. Shown for the first time in the spring/summer 2000 collection, the bowling bag has been refashioned for the occasion, and its minimal design matches perfectly with the spirit of the Resort collection.

Prada Cruise 2020 show photo Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Editor’s letter

Louis Vuitton changes radically the game and, instead of looking at the past, takes inspiration from the space and its limitlessness. The Resort collection has been presented at the TWA Flight Center of JFK airport in New York and it has been coherent with the artistic and creative path of Nicolas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton’s designer. Always been interested into modern architecture and science fictions, Ghesquière imagines the woman of the future between traditional sartorial and pure avant guard. Futuristic items with very wide shoulders (a reminiscence of Star Trek), strong lines and structured suits, with patterns and embroideries that recall the Big Apple’s skyline. Rigid materials and metallic jacquard, together with fierce colors and tones, as the neon lights of the city usually are. With the display of futurism we also find romantic and dreamy notes, which remind us of the Parisian soul of the Maison and of its heritage of excellence. Puff skirts, volant, ruches and bustier top thickly embroidered, soft baby blue velvet and floral patterns, with dark pinstripe suits. A special mention for bags, born thanks to a visionary mind and - why not - preview of the bag of the future. Traditional Louis Vuitton bags are enriched with flexible screens, set in the leather. A quite chaotic collection, extremely complicated, once again mirror of time and artistic speculation of the future to come.

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Louis Vuitton Cruise 2020 show photo Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

BETTYBARCLAY.COM

Sparkling

sand

Art Direction, Style Konstantinos Gkoumpetis Photography Anelia Janeva Model Roos c/o ACE Models Makeup, Hair Style Anelia Janeva Assistant Nico Sutor

Previous: Dress Danny Reinke | Earrings Ted Baker Here: Suit Strenesse | Top Marciano | Shoes Steve Madden

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2019: THE CONSCIOUS FUTURE By Giulia Greco

H&M CONSCIOUS COLLECTION Capsule Collection Conscious Exclusive 2019 by H&M: fashion of tomorrow. â&#x20AC;&#x2039;

H&M Conscious Exclusive 2019 Campaign Photography Josh Olins Models Imaan Hammam, Alanna Arrington & Oumie Jammeh Courtesy of ©H&M

Last April 11th H&M launched its 9th Capsule Collection Conscious Exclusive, available online and in selected stores all over the world. The 2019 Collection, already sold out on the website, is inspired by the Planet Heart, not in shapes, patterns and colors only, but also in fabrics. The photo-shooting itself took place into a botanical garden, standing above the city landscape: buildings and skyscrapers are the background for plants, flowers and the models of course, all smiling in natural makeup and hairstyle. This is a visual metaphor which underlines the real essence of the Conscious Collection, an ideal comeback to nature against uncontrolled urbanization and pollution. The year 2019 - we’ve already said it many times - is all about sustainability, but H&M’s “green” journey has started many years ago already. The new Capsule Collection is only the last step of it, made of small but important achievements which only now, with this renew interest into sustainability, have been recognized and appreciated.

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The Journey. In 2007 H&M, first brand of a bigger holding, which now comprehend other well known brands as COS, Monki and &OtherStories (just to say a few), presented a non-profit association, the Conscious Foundation, with the main goal of make a revolution into (fast) fashion world: to make clothes in a more sustainable way, with a lower environmental impact and with recycled and recyclable materials. The association is responsible of various issues in various parts of the world, such as the availability of drinking water and the promotion of education and training in countries still dominated by poverty. In 2015 the Conscious Foundation launched a pilot, the Global Change Award, which challenges all brands to produce their clothes in a more eco-friendly way and to share their experiences with the community. The purpose of the project is to fuel the production system with new ideas and suggestions, to learn from each others and collaborate for a future with a low environmental impact. Not only work on the production - which is the main problem to face in order to eventually change one of the most polluting field ever - but also work with consumers, leading them toward conscious purchasing. H&M has always been concerned by consumers awareness, through commercials,

slogans and initiatives. It has been the first brand, for instance, to collect used clothes and accessories in stores in exchange for 10% discount on the next purchase. This policy is now extended to all the other brands of the holding and it makes possible to give new life to fabrics which otherwise would form a new layer of garbage on our planet. Conscious Collection made of Green Materials. The first Conscious Collection was launched in 2011, together with the Conscious Actions

Sustainability Report, which lists, at the beginning of every year, companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current goals and the commercial plans to follow in order to achieve results. Smaller collections were made before, following the same green ethic, but they were not successful. In 2007, for example, the capsule collection Organic Cotton, in 2009 the Recycled Fabric Commitment and in 2010 the eco-fiber Garden Collection. Every year since then the Swedish brand made a special collection with eco-sustainable materials, p.31

coming from discarded and recycled fabrics, or completely new fabrics results of laboratory researches. 2017 Collection consisted of evening dresses, particularly suitable for special occasion, made of BIONIC, a fabric coming from plastic garbages collected on the seaside and processed with advanced technology. ECONYL was the main material of 2018, coming from discarded nylon and fishing nets no more used. Jewelry of the same 2018 collection were made with old scarp metal: that was the beginning of experimentations on sustainable jewelry, which is, according

Filippa Lagerback, Sara Nuru, Rosario Dawson star in H&M Conscious Collection 2019 campaign

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to H&M’s spokesman, the most challenging part of a eco-friendly collection. H&M has patented three new innovative 100% natural materials this year too. PINALEX is a synthetic leather coming from pineapple’s leaves, while BLOOM is a very peculiar fiber, foamy and derived from seaweed. Orange Fiber, it’s very easy to deduce, is made out of oranges and other citrus fruits’ skin. It has been particularly appreciated at the Design Week in Milan, when the Collection has been presented to the public.

Rosario Dawson, Beni and Anja Rubik star in H&M Conscious Collection 2019 campaign

The 2019 Conscious Collection combines a beautiful design with low prices, and this is probably the most important thing of all. To produce clothing in the full respect of the entire production chain - not only on the environmental side then, but also employees and infrastructures - requires a huge investment of money and it also cause the rise of the final price. For this reason the â&#x20AC;&#x153;greenâ&#x20AC;? change we are all waiting for and which is extremely necessary now, is so hard to obtain and it asks for a deep change in culture and in purchasing habits first of all. Buying less but buying better is the main message all brands must convey to their costumers, who, on the other hand, must pay more attention in their daily choices. The unbearable rhythm of fashion system today is not good for Planet Heart nor for ourselves and it requires everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s commitment. H&M, although it had a part in the speeding of fast fashion and in the introduction of vicious purchasing habits, deserves praise for the commitment and all the green policies it has introduced in the past years, together with the awareness-raising work. The journey is still long, but we have all the good conditions to make it happen.

SPECTRUM “The image is indivisible and elusive. It depends both on our consciousness and on the real world it tries to recreate. If the real world is cryptic, the image is cryptic too […] Even if we are not able to grasp the Universe in its whole, the image can express this totality.” This is how Andrej Tarkoskij used to speak about one of his masterpiece: The Mirror. In the movie time disappears and the poetic of image dominates the stage. Extremely powerful form of communication, the picture can overcome barriers usually founded in other media, such as language, and communicate also what is normally uncommunicable. It directly stimulates our inner sensibility, hits hard and in depth. Through mirror we see not only our image, but our image into the surrounding world. It is a contextualized image. There’s no line between dream and reality, there’s no line between inner soul and extern landscape.

Photography & Art Direction Alessandro Esposito c/o Productionlink Style Vittoria Rossi Provesi Film Giorgia Benazzo Makeup Barbara Bonazza Using Maccosmetics Hair Style Matteo Bartolini @Freelancer Agency Using Dysonair & Randco Model Kely Ferr c/o Elite Model Milano Photography Assistant Luca Trelancia Style Assistant Chiara Denaro Set Assistant Federica Lampone Casting Direction Vanessa Contini c/o Productionlink

Opening: Dress Moncler | Shoes Andrea Mondin | Earrings, bracelet Sharra Pagano Here: Jacket, collar Cristiano Burani | Cycle Shorts Au197sm Opposite: Dress, Socks Shoes Marco De Vincenzo

Headset Gerlando Dispenza | Dress Stefano De Lellis Opposite: Shirt, Trousers Salvatore Ferragamo

“The White Snake” by Ludovica Mucci

An environmentalist and humanitarian spirit, Valentina Quinn, who presented in 2015 documentary “One Rock Three Religions” about the difficult path towards peace in the Middle East, winner of the US Congress Award Recognition and of many other awards, will now discuss about our dangerous dependency from oil. “The White Snake” documentary will surely leave a mark. Valentina Quinn, born Castellani, has always been surrounded by art in every form, both in her studies and in her life. After the sudden death of her husband Francesco Quinn, son of Oscar winning actor Anthony Quinn, Valentina founded the Quinn Studios with her partner Massimiliano Musina, to honor his memory. Photo by NUNU- nunupictures.com

Valentina Quinn exclusive interview

The production and post-production house has always produced some interesting projects from a humanitarian perspective, informing the public about crucial events that are often not stressed enough or of which disinformation is rampant. Therefore, Valentina’s goal is to open the doors to issues of vital importance both for men and for our planet, inviting to create a dialogue and a constructive confrontation, in order to find solutions to the progressive decline of our Earth and with her, of what makes us human: solidarity, comprehension and the power to act for the better. We had the pleasure to interview Valentina Quinn about these and many other issues that are addressed in “The White Snake”. The documentary is still being filmed and will be distributed in a year to Festivals and to the world.

What was the spark that ignited your will to start working on this amazing project?

We were still shooting our previous Film “One Rock Three Religions” and we had the opportunity to meet in Washington DC with the Founder of the US Energy Security Council, which is the Government organization, created to reduce our dependency to oil. We thought right away that OIL was an exceptional subject to tackle. Oil dominates our politics, economy and society. Yet I am always inclined on producing projects with a strong humanitarian personality. I always stand with the people, the minorities, the ones that have no voice and the ones who carry an important message and represent a fundamental part of our society. When the Saga of Standing Rock started to make the daily news, I thought “This Is It”. It is about the Native Americans, it is about giving them a voice, it is about our water and our environment, and most importantly it is about our integrity as a society and the way we use our resources. It is in our responsibility the way we use OIL as an energy, without destroying communities, and their traditions.

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Photo by NUNU- nunupictures.com

What does the White Snake mean? Is there a particular reason why you choose this title? There is a Lakota prophecy that says there will be a great Black Snake that will run through the land and bring destruction to the people and to the earth. Chief Arvol Looking Horse and the Sioux tribes believe that prophecy speaks about our dependence on Oil fuels. But The Native Americans also speak about an upcoming era: THE WHITE SNAKE era, where man rediscover his connection to the earth, and to all leaving creatures. Your previous work “One Rock Three Religions” explored the difficult path towards peace in the Middle East. What do you think is the power of cinema in conveying these important messages? I am firmly convinced that films are still the most powerful and influential platform to convey an idea and message. With a simple phrase, a scene, a good script, some great documentary story, we can inspire an entire world. I tend to face world issues because I like to make people reflect and take a stand. Our last Documentary about peace in the Middle East, “One Rock Three Religions” won many awards. It was screened for US Congress, receiving the

‘US Congress Award Recognition’ for its effort to promote an open dialogue between Countries, religions and ethnicities. In which way the collaboration with Native Americans is inspiring you and your work? It is humbling and majestic to stand in front Chief Arvol Looking Horse, Chief of all Stars Nations and his people. There is a sense of profound authenticity and integrity within the Native Americans...values we often forget. It makes you remember who you really are. I feel great responsibility towards them, they are in desperate need of all of us in keeping their identity, their traditions, their land. They speak with their eyes, and a few words, but their soulful energy expands like ripples in the water. Standing Rock is an important pillar of the Native Americans’ fight for the environment. How this important action influenced your work? What happened at Standing Rock is an important tale to tell. It was humanity against technology. The protests spoke loudly to the world about the importance of respecting the planet and the environment but, more

importantly, to remember who we are as human beings, resonating together as one with the planet, with each other, and our soul. New technologies are out there, they have proved successful in other countries and will ignite a new ‘system’ which beats in harmony with the heartbeat of the planet.

What we think will resonate in “The White Snake” is the importance of the human value in the fight for the planet. How these two crucial elements -human value and politics- which sometimes seem to be in contrast with one another, will work together in this documentary? As a film maker, a story teller, I believe it is very important in a documentary type of film, to remain invisible, like an observer, and lead the viewer to a profound reflection on the subject, creating his own decisions. We are not intending to go against the Oil industry, but rather find the point of balance, where even a small society like the Native Americans can coexist, without having to bend to politics, nor power. Countries like Costa Rica are doing it, adopting measures to protect the indigenous tribes, and the Amazon Forest, without necessarily renounce to progress. We want the Narration of Chief Arvol, to lead our dialogue and sink into the human Soul. You are already informing people through your documentaries about what the real world is like out there and what we can do to make it a better place for the generations to come. What do you think each one of us can do in our own small ways to improve the quality of our lives and the one of those around us while respecting the planet? I always say: World Peace is a process, re-establishing a true connection with our planet, respecting it, cleaning it, restoring it is a process, it takes time. It takes courage to change, but to stop being afraid is a decision that can be made in an instant. And to stop being afraid bends time and changes the course of History. Remember, change comes from within. We all know what to do. But often we are stopped by fear, fear to be different, fear to stand out, make an impact. How many people do you see picking up some garbage on the street, on a grass field, taking responsibility even just with a simple gesture? That’s what I am talking about. We are often lacking initiative for fear of being different, awkward.

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Getting free from our dependency to oil will surely change the look of our economy. What do you think will be the next steps to proceed in this direction after the movie comes out? My point of view again, is coexistence, rather than fight for elimination. Oil covers an essential part of our economy, but it needs to acquire proportion and balance in relation with the environment and the planet. Brazil is a good example in this sense, where bio-fuels are available at every gas station, so again the choice is ours. The White Snake’s goal is to educate people, making them able to take their own decision with a series of options. In many cases I realize the greatest enemy is ignorance. We understand from your work that in order to change something one has to change mentality first and be courageous enough to sacrifice something in order to achieve something greater. In your opinion, what does it take to change the way we approach ourselves to life on Earth? Ah, that’s a good question. I often reflect on why we do not make a decision to change

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unless we are drastically obliged to, pressured “shoulders to the wall” to choose something different. I lost my husband suddenly, out of a heart attack. My life changed dramatically in just a few minutes. I was forced to change. I had to get out of my comfort zone without going back. It worked. Of course, I was quite a mature human being even back then, but in the matter of minutes my life, my prospective of the world, of our existence, expanded enormously. I hope we, as a society, can desire to change without necessarily go through pain and tragedy, but actually applying education and mindfulness, a sense of care for each other. What are the next steps to make before concluding the project? When we will be able to see the movie? We are still in the process of shooting in the Native American Reservations and the Amazon Forest. It will take us I think a year before the project will finish post-production and will be presented to Festivals and to the world.

NEWLOOK.COM

Interdependence. Close correlation that binds all beings on Earth, events and phenomena as we know them. Everything has its causes and conditions, nothing can exist in a truly independent way.

Interwine me

Analog Photography Mag Juchnik Style Sylwia Morawska Models Julita Formella, Marta Wieczorek, Aly Turska c/o Rebel models Makeup Katarzyna Olkowska Hair Style Joanna Imroth Style Assistant Natalia Radecka

Up: Short leggins Nike| Down: Dress Pinko | Earrings Taak

Contemporary art takes inspiration from the masters of last century and tries to draw an inclusive future. At the very center of the interest is the human situation with its problems, old of centuries or new, explored through innovative and sometimes unexpected techniques. We have had a look to the art works of four big names of the contemporary artistic landscape to understand their values and how they put them into their works, but also to find out the needs of the actual audience theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re talking to.

ÂŠ The Keith Haring Foundation

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Most Popular Names in Modern Art. by Giulia Greco

Keith Haring. Everyone of us knows, maybe only by sight, Keith Haring’s works of art. They flooded streets, fashion items and household objects and forniture. But little of us probably know the story behind the artist and the creation of the very well known little and colorful stickmen. Haring, died at 31 years only, travelled around the world and left a piece of his art in each country he crossed, risking arrest many time because he used to paint cities’ walls and public spaces. Haring’s visual language is manly composed of Radiant Babies (literally stickmen which radiate light) and Barking Dogs: they are realized in few childlike features, but in the meantime they encompass all the human experience. Life, fear, love, peace, death, all steps of human life we already know, but, thanks to Haring’s art, they acquire a new and unexpected power. His men hug each others, walk, talk and live their life. It’s a universal issue, as the medium is. It’s street art, which everyone can access, not only privileged people (rich or art’s connoisseurs) and Haring himself used to say “It’s every day clearer to me that art is not an elitist activity bound to small audiences”. He was famous for the very natural and easy going attitude, which led him to draw his figures everywhere and for everyone interested to, from commercials on the streets to fans’ t-shirts. “Popular Art”, that is. Inspirations came from comics, of which Haring was great passionate, but also from Picasso, street artists and the American artistic landscape of the 80s. Artist’s favorite colors were yellow, green, blue and red, with no shadows nor shades, and bordered by thick black or white lines. A pure genius, who had the power to create, with his fantasy only, a parallel universe we are all invited to dive in.

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Cecily Brown. Born and raised in London, Cecily Brown is now one of the most important name of contemporary art and works mainly in New York. Her paintings are fragmentary reproductions of human bodies, usually in erotic positions, and - as usual in art history - they come from a true genius mind combined together with a strong visual education. Brown has been compared many times with important names of Abstract Expressionism, such as Willem de Kooning and Joan Mitchell, who she always felt close to. Her education is anyways wider and very variegated, from Brugel to Velazquez, and this is the main reason why she is able to manage perfectly the artistic medium. Starting from cubism and abstractionism, each Brown’s canvas has a sexual declination, very personal and innovative. Human bodies are twisted together and their soft colors become part of the background, creating a sort of voluptuous and crowded world, where the audience assumes the role of the vouyeur. Through years, sexuality in Brown’s works has gone from the subjects of the paintings to the act of painting itself: now the real protagonists of her paintings are the brush and the creative process. Her brushstrokes are strong and powerful, but in the same time very light and intensive. Her compositions are restless and always unpredictable. The eye can’t get enough of it and keeps going and scrolling on shapes and materials. For all we said before, art critic Eccher’s words are really interesting to understand Brown’s art. Eccher edited the catalogue for the Brown’s personal exhibition at GAM in Turin in 2017, and wrote “Brown builds up a personal space fully equipped, a deep and dense environment where the sight has to sink” and added that her imaginary revels “the sedimentation of a iconography standing between the light of art history and the shadows of the contemporary landscape”.

Here and opposite, all paintings ©Cecily Brown. Here: The Gang’s All Here, 1998 Opposite: The Last Shipwreck, 2018 | The Homecoming, 1969 | Trouble in Paradise’, 1999

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Mark Bradford. An other very well known name of abstract contemporary art is Mark Bradford, who, in the last period of time, has collected many successes, such as representing the US at Biennale of Venice in 2017 and selling the most expensive work of art at Art Basel Miami. His work is not pictorial only but extends to other artistic genres and finds its best expression in the so called collage decollage, a specific technique which adds and takes off parts of the canvas, mixing together various different materials. The main purpose is the analysis of contemporary social phenomena and problems which still afflict our society, such as racism and the conditions of minorities. Bradford’s work is based on his private life, since he grew up as a black child in Los Angeles during the 70s. Bradford’s works always push the audience to act. The techniques he uses come from his social background and go straight to the final purpose: cheap materials, very popular and easy to access by everybody, mainly posters and commercials we see everyday around the city and which he employs in his collages. The artist calls his work “social abstraction” because it is abstract art on one hand, but on the other it is strong-linked with personal and real experiences of million of people. Paper is his favorite material of all, thanks to its symbolic value of informations’ and stories’ driver, as if it has a proper “memory”. And, for Bradford, memory is the best place where to start to shape the future. Bradford’s inspirations are countless. American abstract expressionism, Mondrian but impressionism and painters from the 800 century as well. His style and technique link him strongly with Pollock (the very famous dripping technique). The two painters also share values and topics and the revolutionary spirit which, according to Andrew Goldstein (ArtNet News’ director), brings “social practice into the artist’s studio”.

“Looking at me funny” ©Mark-Bradford

Painting’s detail by Damien Hirst at “The Veil Paintings” Dettaglio of Gagosian, Los Angeles. Photo by Emily Berl Artsy di dipinto ©Damien Hirst in “The Veilfor Paintings” al Gagosian, Los Angeles | foto Emily Berl per Artsy

Damien Hirst. Damien Hirst. Damien Hirst è uno dei principali esponenti del movimento pittorico One of the most important name in the English Contemporary Moveinglese contemporaneo e la sua arte, geniale e personale, desta grande ment and his art, brilliant and extremely personal, always catches interesse nella critica. Tema principale è la morte, che Hirst indaga critics’ attentions. Main topic is the Death. Hirst looks at it especially soprattutto in relazione al mondo animale e che emerge dalle sue in the animal world and shapes it as the most natural aspect of life opere come un aspetto naturale della vita che accomuna tutti noi. (everybody’s life, no matter what). Despite the topic is very traditional Nonostante la tematica in sè sia tradizionale, l’artista britannico l’ha and very old, the British artist makes it wider in a very original way: ampliata in modo del tutto originale: animali morti sezionati (così da dead dissected animals (to make the inner part of the body to be mostrare sia l’interno che l’esterno del cadavere), collage di farfalle seen as the external part), butterflies’ collage and a very famous (and e un famoso teschio tempestato di diamanti, fino alla composizione expensive) diamond skull, straight to the installation made for the della Biennale di Venezia del 1993 composta da metà mucca e metà Biennale of Venice in 1993, half a cow and half a calf sewed together. vitello. Il mezzo d’espressione non convenzionale che Hirst predilige Hirst’s medium is unconventional and can create shock in the può creare shock nello spettatore, ma l’artista vuole in realtà eliminare audience. But the artist wants to delate fear and pain usually linked il timore e il dolore che l’uomo prova quando si rapporta alla morte, with the experience of death, in order to create a peaceful experience. per creare una fruizione serena. Le sue istallazioni sono composte di His installations are made of different materials - painting, sculpture materiali diversi, da pittura, scultura e disegno insieme e indagano un and drawings - and they are placed in a border region between art and territorio al confine tra arte e scienza, che l’uomo cerca costantemente science, the same space men and women always try to exorcise with di esorcizzare attraverso la religione e la medicina. La reazione fisica the help of religion or medicine. The first intense physical reaction istantanea che lo spettatore sperimenta davanti alle istallazioni è la public experiments in front of Hirst’ works is the most important part parte più importante per l’artista, perchè solo dopo un brivido o un of the process, because after the thrill the audience can start a senso di nausea, l’audience può iniziare una riflessione proficua sulla successful reflection on death and its meanings. morte. Not only Death but also - and especially - Life. “The Miraculous Non solo morte ma anche - e soprattutto - vita. “The Miraculous Journey” is one of the most criticized installations and was exhibited Journey” è una delle istallazioni scultoree più criticate di Hirst e risale in 2005, for the inauguration of Sidra Medical Center in the Emirates. al 2005, realizzata per l’inaugurazione del nuovo Sidra Medical Center 14 monumental sculptures (from 5 to 11 meters tall) tell the story of in Arabia Saudita. Le 14 sculture monumentali (sono alte dai 5 agli 11 the “fetus’ journey”, from the fecundation to the birth. It’s the metri) di cui è composta raccontano il “viaggio” del feto dalla feconcelebration of life whichcelebrando covers an unusual issue in vita Middle East. dazione fino alla nascita, il miracolo della e toccando Hirst splits the critique in the middle: someone loves him and his tematiche inusuali per il mondo del medio oriente. genius, some otherse disregard andlaglitz (more suitable for an Hirst divide la critica accanto a his chi style celebra sua arte come visionaria Hollywood actor than for an artist). Precious materials, exaggerated c’è chi ne disprezza lo stile e lo sfarzo. Materiali preziosi, strutture structures and huge sums of money spent tofama attract fame andsenza esagerate e moltissimi soldi spesi per attrarre e visibilità, visibility, not to mention the long list of artists Hirst “stole” ideas e contare la lista lunghissima di artisti a cui Hirst ha “rubato” elementi from, without fearad to ammetterlo. admit it. idee, senza alcunaany paura p.67 p.107 p.59

IN YOUR ROOM

Analog Photography Martin Tomecko | Style Zuzana Laucikova Model Alexandra K c/o Focus mm | Makeup, Hair Style Mischel Warenits

Top & Earrings Patrik Haaz Opposite: Trousers & Hat Petra Kubikova

Jacket Escada | Trousers Patrik Haaz | Shoes Yeezy Opposite: Jacket Criscione | Shorts Fashion Recycling Lab

Dress Yoora Studio | Hoodie Petra Kubikova | Belt Off White Opposite: Jacket Criscione | Shorts Fashion Recycling Lab

Jacket & Trousers Fashion Recycling Lab | Belt Off White Opposite: Top & Trousers Patrik Haaz

must have by Laura Zanovello

Fasten your seatbelts because we are going on a trip, a journey among colours, a rollercoaster of temperatures, a dive into fabrics. Take a sneak peak of what will come next season, we are sure you will find something you love, no matter your style, because the theme this time is definitely variety. Variety and layering to be fair, are both very central, especially in seasons like autumn and spring because they can be very unexpected when it comes to temperatures: one minute you are wearing a huge wool jumper, and the next you find yourself sweating and in need of a fan. Have no fear because we got you (un)covered! Starting from the outer layer we have a new favourite: a coat so long it will keep you warm and cozy on those cold mornings when rolling out of bed is an even harder task. Moving onto a breezier option we find feathers which are pretty and versatile enough to go on every item in your wardrobe, but we imagine them being particularly suitable on jackets you can wear on your Sunday afternoon strolls in the city. Our journey continues on with skirts and dresses for the next layer, when it starts to get warmer. The skirt is pleated and caters for a classic-more formal look, while the dress has a very romantic and boho vibe, reinforced by the floral pattern. Lastly, the grand finale. In some occasions no one really cares about layers anymore and on these very occasions it is suitable to wear something special like a golden frock. Accompanying accessories are staple pieces everyone should own such as the high block heeled boots, the big tote, the wide brim hat. Make-up-wise we want to keep it very basic and bare with an additional focus on skincare and hair. Autumn 2019 Trends

BIRDS OF A FEATHER

Wrap yourself in feathers from head to toe and fly towards the warmer fabrics. Jackets, dresses and even shoes, the runway showed us how to make every look become interesting and flirty. A simple denim jacket with a checked skirt and a pair of evergreen sneakers is made a lot cooler by adding some plumage around the neck. Wanna keep the attention on your clothes and go make up free? Make your skin glow with this micellar water spray.

3. Prada, denim jacket prada.com

Stan Smith, adidas.com 1. Valentino FW19 Runway show Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / gorunway.com 2. Petar Petrov, skirt farfetch.com 3. FaceD instant glow micellar water spray, faced.com

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COATED

One of the best things about this colder weather is cocooning into soft and cozy fabrics to shield yourself from the falling temperatures. For the lovers of this concept, there was a lot of material on the runways to work with since many designers presented very long coats and capes in different fabric and colours. A stunning and very chic example was shown at Karl Lagerfeldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s last collection for Chanel, a long coat on top of a jumpsuit for a very refined outfit. For a minimalistic approach we are therefore re-elaborating that look adding only a tote and the perfect nude lipstick.

Haider Ackermann, coat farfetch.com

Frenzlauer, Mami bag frenzlauer.com 1.Chanel FW19 Runway show Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / gorunway.com 2.Max Mara, jumpsuit maxmara.com 3.Cliomakeup, tinta labbra Liquid Love in color MLBB

THE GOLDEN HOUR

This time designers focused their attention on a very specific hue, gold. It is a perfect metaphor for this transitioning weather, it reminds us of the bright summer sun and at the same time of the colourful falling leaves. It also paves the way for the most glitzing season of it all: winter. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s keep it subtle for now though, this statement top can be balanced out with some simple black trousers and a wide brim hat, for a mysterious and seductive look.

3. Maison Margiela, Unstructured top farfetch.com

Dsquared, wide brim hat farfetch.com 1.Burberry FW19 Runway show Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / gorunway.com 2. Victoria Beckham, Pleated Front Trouser net-a-porter.com 3. Pupa, Mascara Vamp black pupa.it

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PLEATES PLEASE

If glitz and glamour is not your thing, have no fear, this autumn is very democratic and brings new trends for every taste. A big protagonist is a garment with an intriguing mix of 70s vibe, boss lady and preppy style, the pleated skirt, seen worn in the most different ways on the runway. One of our favourite has been the combo blazer-skirt, an old but gold pair that can assist you in many different occasions from day to night, good for strategic layering too!

3. Prada, Double-breasted coat with belt farfetch.com

Benefit, Hoola bronzing powder sephora.it 1.Fendi FW19 Runway show Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / gorunway.com 2. Tibi, pleted skirt tibi.com 3. OAD New York, mini messenger bag oadnewyork.com

ROMANTIC DRESS

After the flirty, the business, the party and the multi-purpose/ formal looks, the circle closes with the romantic one. Flowers proved to belong not only to spring but also to its sister midseason, Autumn. The runways were flooded with this motif, paired with high necks and long hems for a semiconservative, but rather feminine combination. This is another very versatile style that can serve many purposes and tastes. We imagined this with a bohemian vibe to be achieved with the help of a big cardigan, a pair of high heeled boots and some natural wavy locks.

Veronica Beard, Cardigan net-a-porter.com

Bumble & Bumble, Bb. Curl Defining Creme sephora.it 1.Givenchy FW19 Runway show Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / gorunway.com 2.Co, dress farfetch.com 3. Gianvito Rossi, Laura 85 leather knee boots, net-a-porter.com

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Gracieusement

COVER STORY Photography Micheal Groeger | Style Gabriela Santighian Model Nya Gatbel c/o Louisa models | Makeup, Hair style Anja EL Sawaf c/o Les Artists using Chanel & Redken | Production Zero-8 Productions Digital Benedikt Greif | Assistants Dominik Patzelt & Felix Konrath

Coat Escada Opposite and on cover: Outfit ETRO Shoes Mango

Coat, Pants Strenesse Shoes Santoni Opposite: Dress ETRO Shoes Mango

Dress, Skirt Escada Shoes Mango Opposite: Pullover, Pants ETRO Shoes Santoni

Pullover Strenesse Skirt ETRO Shoes Santoni Opposite: Blouse Escada Pants ETRO

Editor’s letter Sustainable ITINERARY

AT THE DESIGN WEEK

©Louis Vuitton | new 2019 collection Objects Nomades

The 2019 edition of the Design Week has hosted many international artists in Milan, bringing forward a message of openness and sharing, having at the centre of the creative process the idea of a more sustainable approach to life. by Ludovica Mucci

This year, the 2019 edition of the Design Week has hosted many international and national artists that have presented very visionary works at Salone del Mobile and at Fuorisalone in Milan, works full of aesthetic meaning but also of cultural depth. Intelligence, experimentation, creativity and sustainability have been the key works of this event, around which a clear and definite path has been created. Indeed, by exhibiting these wonderful creations, Milan’s annual event does not only represent the excellence of creativity, but also a mirror on the cultural changes that design, art and architecture want to convey both to the new public and to those interested in exploring the world of design with a critic eye. Many have been the paths dedicated to those issues shaking the asset of our society. Design then, serves as a tool with which one can pose his or herself some p.94

questions and attempting to give some answers, both to our daily necessities and to the long-term ones. This intention has been concretized through the realization of works characterized by “a poetic simplicity”, as Salone del Mobile stated. A simplicity that aimed at spreading a message of inclusivity, of exaltation of artistic influences that go beyond the limits of the known, in order to reach also a transnational public. Going back to primitive and old influences has been the expressive formality of this simplicity, a past that flourished through the use of renaissance scenarios or rudimental raw materials. However, the necessity and the desire of the new is inherent to modernity together with the awakening of the past. Indeed, it is in this way that the past and the new blended together, and created a combination enriched with futuristic and dissonant undertones. Another important point of this 2019 edition to consider is the theme linked with ecology and sustainability, which are really crucial issues that are shaping these last few years. It is really this sustainable path that Fuorisalone has highlighted the most, through the concept of re-use, very visible in the materials implied in some creations. This path was able to transmit to the public an extremely important message of environmental safeguard but also of some delicate issues about inclusivity and acceptance of unknown universes that could bring new design traditions to the table and by doing so, enriching those already known.

PLEASE-SIT cover Ph. Max Monnecchi

Another example of design that annuls the divisions was offered by the association called De Rerum Natura – Rinascimento, that presented “Design Collisions: The power of collective ideas” in occasion of the design week. It was about an exposition of 15 projects conceived for the community, curated by Laura Traldi, the founder of designatlarge.it. She declared: “Design collisions stages projects to mend the fractures that surround us, those between man and nature: helping businesses, governments and consumers to replace a linear economy with a circular. But also social, economic and cultural, those between institutions and citizens and between the work of man and automation.”

An example of this message was of course the project named “Please Sit per Sartoria Migrante”. Starting on the 7th of April 2019, the collection was composed of 21 chairs created by artist Denis Bonapace. These were made with the help of women and men coming from foreign countries that have enriched the design with multiple and different handcraft competences. The project was developed thanks to a nonprofit association called “Connecting Cultures” founded by Anna Dethridge. The association has always taken care of projects dedicated to sustainability and it has always promoted integration through art and design projects. The chairs were produced by waste wood chairs and each one of them was accompanied by a passport, some general information on the composition, on the manufacturing techniques, on the designer and on the artisan, who produced it. They represented the identity of those who put the hands in the project. The final result was that of a small community guided by the same purpose, that has used the design the transmit messages of inclusivity, innovation and sustainability.

05-14/04 CASCINA CUCCAGNA, MILANO De Rerum Natura. Rinascimento

Another crucial issue closely linked with sustainability has been showed by the installation called Waves, ideated by Francesca Benedetto, Design Critic at Harvard Graduate School of Design, which opened the cycle “(f)Acts on Climate Change”, curated by journalist Daniele Moretti, an expert in environmental issues.

©Andrea Martiradonna - courtesy of One Works

courtesy of ©IRIS CERAMICA at Fuorisalone 2019 with MateriAttiva

Editor’s letter

The relationship between man and nature has been also treated by a project which saw collaborating Iris Ceramica Group, SOS-School of Sustainability and Mario Cucinella Architects’ studio. Following the project “Pollution-RefleaAction” presented last year in Bologna, this collaboration has exhibited the installation MateriAttiva at the heart of Brera in Milan. The structure recalled the symbol of the cave, a place of discovery and knowledge, which waters is deeply linked to the concept of purification and rebirth. A multisensorial path aiming at rediscovering the functionality and aesthetic perfection of ceramic, immersed in a space which celebrates the relationship between man and nature.

These initiatives have been promoted by One Works, global society of architecture and engineering. Waves, realized in collaboration with Violaine Buet, designer and member of the Deparment of seaweed, has physically immersed the visitor in a sequence of waves made out of seaweed. The project’s main objective was to show closely the critic situation of the oceans. Amongst the issues explored in this 2019 edition of the Design Week, there’s also been the out-door design trend. Emblematic of this promising path was “IN-OUT your outdoor experience” curated by architect Fabio Rotella (from Studio Rotella) and presented in the squares of CityLife in Milan in occasion of Fuorisalone. The installation communicated to the public the beauty of living outdoors, in the spirit of a more sustainable and conscious lifestyle. The project included four daily yoga sessions with the support of Yoga Festival, a fashion show “For Plastic Free Oceans” with the

BETWEEN LINES

“IN-OUT your outdoor experience” at CityLife di Milano

Istituto Marelli Dudovich’s students and a conference meeting for architects and landscapers with Topscape Paysage to discuss about the changes in the cities. Very impactful was also “Under Pressure”, the installation curated by European Institute of Design (IED) that has been presented at Fuorisalone. The project foresees a development for the next three years, upon which will work the students of the second and third year of Bachelor Studies coming from eleven Network departments between IED Spain, Italy and Brazil. Only the first phase out of three was exposed at Fuorisalone, and it was developed upon the contest called “100 questions for tomorrow”, in which the students could pose their questions about environmental, social and economic sustainability. The selected 100 questions have been exposed at Tortona in Milan and will be used as a starting point for the project’s next phases. We are in front of a future still to be written then, a challenge that design will convey with new structures and wonderful ideas in the next years.

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Rooftop rooftop Photography Det Kempke Style, Production Hinda Sarva Model Freya c/o Promod Makeup, Hair Style Karina Asmus

Opening: Shirt Puma Dungarees Diesel Here: Shirt Romeo Gigli Pants Hot Lips Shoes Rebook Opposite: Polo Ben Sherman Jeans Joop Vintage Shoes Buffalo

Vest Arket Skirt The Ragged Priest Socks Calzedonia Shoes Buffalo Belt Helmut Lang Opposite: Overall Ben Davis Shirt Puma Socks Calzedonia Belt Helmut Lang Shoes Fila

Jacket Kings of Indigo Shirt Mango Jeans Vintage Shoes Rebook Opposite: Jacket Mango Committed Pants Laurel

Here, Opposite: Dress Diesel

Top Vintage Pants Arket Flip Flops Sketchers

Organic cosmetics: a trend born to LAST

by Ludovica Mucci

LATEST BEAUTY l mondo della cosmetica è ultimamente protagonista di un cambiamento molto The world of cosmetics is at lontano the centredall’essere of a change that is very far from being just a temporary trend, indeed it is about a definite revolution, an attitude born to last. The crucial themes like those involving environmental, social and economic sustainability do not concern just the fashion world but also the one of beauty, which companies are even more careful about the raw materials implied in the creation of the product and about a responsible consumption for the sake of nature. Indeed, the consumer’s needs to know themselves and recognise themselves in the brand’s philosophy before buying the products and the fight for sustainability are just a couple of reasons behind the choice of old and new brands to proceed in this direction. Amongst the variety of products, the most sold are those for hair and face, because these are generally the body parts more exposed to a stressful lifestyle. The raw materials implied are different depending on the products, the most used are for example essential and vegetal oils, such as the orange oil, jojoba, linseed, almond oil and much more, each one of them implied for different body’s needs. Very well-known are the aloe-vera, fish oil and the extracts of Neem, a vegetal oil made from cold pressing of Azadirachta Indica seeds, coming from the family of Meliaceae, used for its antibacterial and anti- inflammatory properties.

Foto by Daria Shevtsova

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LATEST BEAUTY Many brands specialized in organic cosmetics present a very wide portfolio, starting from the lipsticks, to foundations, body lotions and children products. An example is Alkemilla Eco Bio Cosmetic, an Italian certified company specialized in the production of innovative organic cosmetics that are safe both for the consumer and the environment. Amongst the wide range of products, the lipsticks are irresistible. They are made in 15 different tonalities, starting from the hot shades of red to those tending to brown by way of lilac tones. Each lipstick is enriched with jojoba oil, castor oil coming from organic farming and apricot pit, all of them used in order to keep the lips soft and for a longlasting hydration, without sacrificing the colour. The wide collection dedicated to the eyeshadows is very interesting, all of them are made with products coming from certified organic farming. Alkemilla’s portfolio presents also products for the face, hair, sunscreens, oils, make-up, and it offers some others made to cuddle the babies’ skin too. The list of the brands doesn’t stop here, Neve Cosmetics is another Italian company with its headquarters in Turin, going in this sustainable direction. The company puts at the centre of the brand its love for nature and colour. Their products are indeed made entirely by the Italian team, which is always searching for new combinations and receipts, fully respecting the ingredients and animals. Concerning this, the company has always supported small and big Onlus associations dedicated to save animals. Amongst the wide range of cruelty-free products, the shower solutions are very interesting: “Doccia Gianduiosa” and “Doccia Mirtillosa”, are made respectively of cocoa butter, sesame oil and hazelnuts the first, shea butter, Argan oil and cranberry extract the second, ideals for normal or stressed skins. Face creams are made of an interesting combination of ingredients, like the “Exotic Cream”, made of macadamia nut oil, berry oil and anti-aging acai oil, shea butter, UVA and UVB filters to protect the skin from sun’s rays and vitamin E.

Cushnie backstage A/I 2019 | Photo Ashley Gallerani Product Alkemilla lipstick Rosa Lunaria

Product Neve cosmetics shower Mirtillosa

La trasparenza di La trasparenza è il motto di Nabla Nabla Cosmetics, Trasparency is Nabla Cosmetics’ motto, a Cosmetics, cheaims punta e di ingreche puntathat alla genuinità e genuinità all’utilizzo company at alla offering authenticity all’utilizzo di ingredienti vegani e ingredients. cruelty-free, dienti vegani e cruelty-free, garantendo proand using vegan and cruelty-free garantendo prodotti diIlprima qualità. dotti di prima qualità. marchio italiano racThe Italian brand’s name suggests its love for Il marchio italiano racchiude nel nome eused l’amore chiude nel l’amore per la natura l’arte: nature andnome art: Nabla is both a symbol in per la ènatura l’arte: Nabla èinsia simbolo Nabla siadescribe une simbolo che and fisica si usa per physics to nature, aun recall to the che in fisica usa per la natura, descrivere la sinatura, siadescrivere un richiamo all’immaimage of the harp, very often sia un richiamo all’immagine dell’arpa, spesso gine dell’arpa, raffigurata mitologia represented in spesso mythology next toin Apollo, God raffigurata in mitologia accanto Apollo Dio accanto ad Apollo Dio delle arti.ad Il very brand proof the arts. The company proposes delle arti.serie Ilcollections, brand propone una serie dithe pone una di collezioni molto interessanti, interesting as for example collezioni molto interessanti, tra cui la Vol.2”, tra cui la “Close-up Line” e la “Closeup “Close-up line” and the “Close-up Vol.2”, two “Close-up Line” e la “Closeup Vol.2”,disegnati due due linee di correttori e fondotinta concealer and foundation collections designed linee di correttori e fondotinta disegnati per per ogni tipo di L’attenzione alle esigenfor each type of pelle. skin. The attention to the ogni di needs pelle. L’attenzione allenel esigenze ze deltipo consumatore si vede anche progetto consumers’ can also be visible thanks to del consumatore siinvede anche nel “Me&Nabla” area cui inviare qualsiasi “Me&Nabla” project, anpoter area of theprogetto website in “Me&Nabla” in any cui poter inviare qualsiasi suggerimento volto ad arricchire l’offerta del which you canarea send kind of suggestion in suggerimento volto adviene arricchire l’offerta del brand. Ogni consiglio discusso a cadenza order to enrich the brand’s offer. Each advice brand. consiglio viene discusso a cadenmensile dal team. is then Ogni discussed by the team on a monthly za mensile dal team. basis.

Wan Hung backstage A/I 2019 | Photo Ashley Gallerani Product Nabla foundation Close-Up

Product Benecos nail polish Desire

Sulla stessa lunghezza d’onda è anche Benecos, brand tedesco specializzato in prodotti per il make-up, unghie, capelli e corpo. Tra la Sulla stessa d’onda è anche On the samelunghezza page is also Benecos, German vasta gamma offerta dal brand gli smalti sono Benecos, brand tedesco specializzato in and brand specialized in make-up, nails, hair molto interessanti; il colore è la caratteristica prodotti per il make-up, unghie, capelli body products. The nail polishes are verye come fondamentale del prodotto, dimostrando corpo. Tra la the vasta gamma offerta dal brand noteworthy; colours are their uno stile di vita votato al rispetto della natura gli smalti sonocharacteristics, molto interessanti; il colore è fundamental showing to the e delle sue risorse non faccia rinunciare all’ela caratteristica fondamentale delto prodotto, consumers that a lifestyle willing respect stro e alla creatività. I nomi degli smalti sono dimostrando uno stile di vita votatoyou al natureinvitanti, and itscome resources doesn’t prevent molto tra le tante proposte troviamo rispetto della natura The e delle sue risorsenames non from being creative. nail polishes’ il “bubble gum”, “you-nique”, “wild orchid” o faccia rinunciare all’estro e alla creatività. are extremely inviting, amongst offersI “flamingo”, i grandi assenti sonothe la formaldeinomi degli smalti sono molto invitanti, trathe we can find the “bubble gum” nail polish, de, i parabeni, siliconi e altre sostanze chimile tante proposte troviamo il “bubble gum”, “you-nique” one, “wild orchid” or che nocive; al loro posto invece olio di avocado “you-nique”,formaldehyde, “wild orchid” oparabens, “flamingo”, i silicones e“flamingo”; vitamina H adatta per le unghie fragili. grandi assenti sonosubstances la formaldeide, i parabeni, and other harmful are absent, on siliconi e altrethere sostanze chimiche nocive; al the contrary are avocado oil and vitamin Queste proposte non sono le uniche sul mercaloro posto invece olio fingernails. di avocado e vitamina H H, tanti suitable fori fragile to, sono brand che ormai stanno viranadatta per leare unghie fragili. These offers not the only eones in the per do verso una proposta etica sostenibile, Queste proposte non sono le uniche sul market, many brands are now turning to l’ambiente e per la salute e prosperità dipage corpo mercato, tanti sono i brand che ormai stanno an ethic and sustainable approach, both for e mente. virando verso unaand proposta eticaand e sostenibile, the environment the health per l’ambiente e per la salute e prosperità di prosperity of body and mind. corpo e mente. p.113 p.59

White is the non-color par excellence. Clean, ethereal, light. White is possibility, because everything can still be written on an empty canvas. The latest generation cosmetics are inspired by this and try to have the least possible impact on the environment and on our skin. Transparent, because it is natural beauty that emerges in the final performance. Like white, which is there but cannot be seen and is the indispensable surface on which to bring out our colors.

Soft

touch Photography Elizabeth Gibson Style Maureen Vivian Model Anja Konstantinova c/o Premier Model Managment Makeup, hair style Lica Fensome using Mac Cosmetics

Editor’s letter

LATEST BEAUTY by Giulia Greco

photo courtesy of extrait.it

STAND OUT niche perfumes In the last period the general market is going back to a greater sophistication and consumers ask for individuality. This is a natural reaction to the long exposure to mass production and consumption, that makes us be all the same, while the human being is willing to differentiate and show unique personality among the group. Perfume’s market is voted to sophistication by definition, and it is now living an interesting moment of development, since an increasing number of consumers asks for gourmand and niche fragrances. The best example of customization is the trend of molecular perfumes. All perfumes are theoretically molecular, because they are all composed of molecules, but when speaking about Molecular

Perfumes we are referring to a certain type of products coming from a specific research, very different from the traditional scents’ art. Molecular perfumes are composed of a single molecule of synthesis, that blends with the natural smell of one’s skin and creates a very personal perfume, different for each of us. Molecular perfumes can be considered non-perfumes and they activate only when meeting our skins. The idea comes from Geza Schone, German perfumer who decided to create a single-molecule scent, because of his personal preference for “iso e super” molecule. His first molecular perfume is Molecule 01, made only of iso e super, with a strong woody note.

Nowadays it is very easy to find molecular perfumes with low prices, which suit the most exigent clients as well. The Juliette Has a Gun for example, composed of cetalox, and the Supraem Series, a collection of fragrances with chashmera, triplal, kephalis and musc T. Perfume’s history started many centuries ago, mostly related with religion. From the Middle East, considered the place of birth of perfumery, Alessandro Magno spread it through all European countries. Going back in time we can find traces of perfume in the Ancient Egypt, with a purification meaning, in the Bible and in the far East obviously, where spices and aromas’ market is part of the popular culture since the beginning of time. Then, in the modern society of the ‘700, perfumes were used to cover bad smell due to a lacking personal hygiene and at the end of the century the modern perfumery is eventually stated in all the modern European courts. In 1828 Pierre Francois Guerlain opened his maison in Paris, marking a turning point in perfume’s history. In the same year chemical researches led to the production of the first synthetic elements - synthesis indeed - which combined with natural scents and fixatives create perfumes as we today know them.

up: photo “Annik” brand - courtesy of Fragrantica.it down: photo “Floris” brand - courtesy of labarberia.it

When we speak about “niche” market we are speaking about a small portion of clients with high and peculiar requests, sometimes difficult to accomplish and far from mass production. The definition is even more meaningful when referred to the perfumes’ market, since the term niche acquired its meaning just thanks to perfumers. Niches were small compartments where, in ancient time, perfumers used to hide their precious raw materials. In the perfumes’ niche market protagonists are small factories and artisans, whose philosophy is based on tradition: ideas coming from literature, visual stimulations, musical notes and dreamy landscapes are traduced into fragrances.

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Editor’s letter

up and down: “Diptyque” brand - courtesy of Fragrantica.it

down: Vetiris by “Lubin” brand - courtesy of profumeriaideale.com

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This sort of production not only led to the creation of peculiar scents but also gifts the client with a story, to immerse oneself in and to appreciate in every single feature. It is obviously very different from the usual path of mass market production where perfumes, in order to reach a wide public, are made with basic and very plain scents: everyone likes them but no one is impressed. It is important to make clear from the beginning that the difference between mass production and niche production does not lie in the raw materials. It’s very easy to think about sophisticated production using raw natural materials only, while commercial perfumes being made with lower quality chemicals. This is completely wrong. Chemical composition made in laboratory is the very base of every perfumes and it does require deep studies and researches. The real difference between the two side of perfumery is the approach to the field: on one side large market of consumers with not so high expectations, on the other side an ancient art. It’s no coincidence that the best producers in the niche market have a long story behind. Probably the best known (and oldest) house in the field is Lubin, born in Paris during the French Revolution. Growing through time and working with very important personalities, Lubin had made of History its defining characteristic. Pierre-Francois Lubin, founder of the maison, was the personal beauty advisor for the French Regency House and for Marie Antoniette in particular, when she was confined at Les Tuileries. Lubin’s brand, for that very moment, won the faith of many regents, such as Giuseppina and her husband Napoleon I, together with the new born bourgeois class. Lubin’s creations still have names related with its founder’s story. Gin Fizz for instance, created personally for Grace Kelly with the name of one of the most popular cocktail of that period, and Nuit de Longchamp, coming from horses’ races of the 30s. Maison Lubi’s archive counts today many reinterpretations of old fragrances, plus novelties, created for the modern and avant guard generation of consumers.

Floris has a similar story to tell. Born in London in 1780, it is associated with celebrities and Her Majesty the Queen Elizabeth II. Royal Arms is the fragrance made in her honor in 1926 and redone in a Diamond Edition in 2013, in occasion of the Queen Coronation’s Festival taking place in Buckigham Palace. Among others we should name Marilyn Monroe and princess Diana, both of their fragrances still available in the atelier. Maison Floris is also well known for its customization programs, going from 600 to 6000 euros: the client can create his/her personal fragrance after three exploratory meetings with expert noses. The final bottles will have the initial letters engraved and the scent will be added to Floris’ archive. up: Olivier Creed - courtesy of financial times | down left: “juliette has a gun” brand A perfume as a luxury object, a sort of courtesy of fragrantica.it | right: “molecule01” courtesy of cultbeauty.co.uk “liquid” jewel made just for us. But the label best know for its raw materials and the quality of its final compositions is Creed, an other historical British house. The founder, James Henry Creed, was firstly glover of trust for the English Royal Family and only in a later period approached the world of perfumery. The business reached the sixth generation and today the grand master is Olivier Creed, joined by his young son, who’s going to inherit the company. The famous raw materials which are used at Creed’s atelier come from a long and committed research all over the world, that keeps Oliver Creed busy and drives him in the most remote countries. Creed, who personally follows all the steps in the laboratory, also takes inspiration from what he sees in his trips and explorations, and translate his stories in perfumes’ shape. An added value hard to find elsewhere. Together with those old and rinomate houses we find relatively younger perfumers, born and raised at the end of the last century but with an already well known name. It’s curious to notice how some of those new talents come from different fields than perfumery. Diptyque, for instance, is born thanks to the meeting between an interior designer, a painter and a theater director. The brand is now extremely famous and all its creations share an intellectual background. Starting from the lettering of the name, which reminds us of the architectonical structure of an ancient Greek temple, to the oval shape of the logo, suggested by mythology. Fragrances as well are linked with classical cultures and old stories, and they are able to give to the consumers real inspirations and deep reflections in their everyday life. Annick Goutal, pianist and model, started her adventure in perfumery in 1981 and found in perfumes’ creation a new medium for her talent: feminine and elegant, terribly graceful, but explosive at the same time. Scents are naturally influenced by her mentality and personal interests, such as music, literature and poetry. The brand is also appreciated because of its green ethic and eco-friendly approach. Each step of the production is meant to be the less polluting possible: perfumes are not colored, packaging is made out of recycled paper and bottles can be refilled once over. According to maison Goutal, be eco-friendly is the real luxury nowadays. Perfumery field is full of novelties and in great development: consumers’ needs are everyday new and they must be accomplished. Tradition and innovation work together in order to make brands successful, and only the most careful ones are going to be appreciated by a very demanding public, committed to a conscious and qualitative purchasing. Not fragrances only, but stories to be part of.

SMELLLIKEHeaven Analog Photography Mag Juchnik | Model Agata Wojtasik c/o Mango models and Premium Paris Style Sylwia Morawska | Makeup, Hair style Katarzyna Olkowska

“Odors have a power of persuasion stronger than that of words, appearances, emotions, or will. The persuasive power of an odor cannot be fended off, it enters into us like breath into our lungs, it fills us up, imbues us totally. There is no remedy for it.” - “Perfume: The Story of a Murderer”

he accessories shaping

FALL WINTER 2019

This year, the accessories created for FW19 are the result of a combination of styles that are born on one hand from a profound balance of influences, on the other are created by a mix of contrasting tones that convey a fascinating game of blends. The union of different tendencies that reformulate the old and create something new, is characteristic of many fashion shows. Sometimes this renewal is all about small details coming together. An example of this is the last Louis Vuitton’s FW show which under the creative direction of Nicolas Ghesquière presented the classic Monogram bags with new models, like the Art Folder bag, or the coloured reinterpretation of the Mini Luggage BB. The reinterpretation of styles and iconic motives is a trend that is full of surprises and more importantly it manages to capture new potential customers and inspires them to discover the past and future of the brand. The belts are also very interesting, a timeless, sometimes necessary accessory that opens itself up to a new decoding. An example is the Louis Vuitton’s belt with a squared clasp that recalls futuristic elements. They shape even more the silhouette because they are nowadays worn in pairs but also thanks to their thickness and size: an example is offered by Longchamp, that enriches it with studs, creating a scratchy look, but also by Off-White, that enhanced a more sportive wearability and by Stella McCartney, who presented a maxi woven belt created by artist Sheila Hicks. This eclectic style is also recognizable in the last Dior fashion show by Maria Grazia Chiuri; her creations recalled the 50s and the iconic Tailleur Bar made by Christian Dior, that in occasion of the FW19 show, was reinterpreted in combination with the Teddy Boys’ style.

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Therefore, classicism and rebellion blended together, and created some clothes that are extremely modern; and so even the accessories, characterized by tapered shoes with small heels and by the bucket hat, which has been revisited by many other fashion houses, such as Valentino. Chiuri’s hats are in leather black, some with a net that nearly covers the face, the others are in tartan. The combination of multiple styles and motives is balanced by a return to the essential, expressed by John Galliano for Maison Margiela, which proposes leather black or rubber black and blue Mary Janes, or round- toe and square-toe heeled boots with the red heel. This minimal tendency is juxtaposed to a pair of flamingo sequence print satin square-toe heeled boots. Breaking with the classics are surely the sunglasses which shapes evoke a futuristic world. An example of that is Gucci and Lanvin. A sophisticated and cheerful touch is given by the feathers, used on clothes and shoes. One can think of those of Giambattista Valli and Valentino, that are placed on heeled or flat sandals. A brand-new trend is the Bitty Bag. Even smaller than the mini bags, the Bitty bag is very tiny, and its efficiency is pretty arguable, but the effect it has when it is worn with clothes is surely remarkable, one can think about the last Chloe show or Jacquemus’. The next season will be full of choices to make, choices that go beyond the preference of an accessory over another; it is indeed their adaptability to different styles, their versatility, that pushes us to go beyond the limits of our creativity, and by doing so, they let us discover new fluid styles that are the symbol of our era. By Ludovica Mucci

The fall-winter season will be full of news, thanks to the accessories born out of multiple influences. In-between the reinterpretation of the classic and a jump into the future, the bags, shoes, belts and more will reformulate the grey of winter with some new and interesting shades.

Here, from left: Giambattista Valli shoes, Stella McCartney belt, Gucci sunglasses, Givenchy bitty bag, Pagina precedente: cinture White Grillo e Marni | foto Alessandro Viero e Alessandro Lucioni Valentino hat |all photos byOff Armando / courtesy of Gorunway.com Qui: sandali Giambattista Valli, cintura Stella McCartney, Occhiali daViero sole /Gucci, borsetta Givenchy Previous page: belts from Off White and Marni, photos by Alessandro courtesy of Gorunway.com

cappello Valentino | tutte le foto by Armando Grillo courtesy of Gorunway.com

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To pose in front of the camera means stopping time, for a while, and showing a certain image of ourselves to others. Never natural, it is the opposite. The pose is, in greater or lesser amount, a choice. Eye contact only seems to not conform to the rule. It creates a special connection, not possible to be controlled by rationality. It allow us to go beyond our constructed stories, and to experiment a totally different kind of connection.

pose Photography Oliver Beckmann c/o MN-CREATIVE Style Elke Dostal c/o Nina Klein Model Vera Amores c/o Uno models Makeup, Hair Style Yurema Villa c/o Anaprado Mgmt and MMG Artist Digital Assistant Fred Nebas

Top Nanushka | Rings Pariah Opposite: Coat TotĂŞme | Shoes Balenciaga | Earrings J.W.Anderson

Earrings Ellery | Opposite: Shirt Attico | Earrings Ellery

Shirt Absence Of Paper | Opposite: Jacket Ganni | Earrings J.W. Anderson

Dress Nanushka | Earrings & Other Stories | Shoes Balenciaga Opposite: Top Max Mara

Ookioh “Modern swimwear with a splash of nostalgia, made with 100% regenerated materials” by Giulia Greco

Summer 2019 is (finally) knocking at our door and the usual questions pop up in our mind, punctual as always: what are the new swimwear trends? What should I wear this year on the beach? The answer, today, can be only one: sustainability. If you are not able to change your habits already and go back to your old and still good bikini, then at least be sure to make the right choices and buy eco-friendly and ethically. We had a talk with Vivek Agarwal, creative director and founder of OOKIOH, swimwear’s brand based in Los Angels with an international spirit. According to Agarwal, sustainability is no more an option, but a moral duty that everyone of us, consumers and brands together, must accomplish. He told us about his inspirations, the magical atmosphere you can breathe on the beach in LA and also something very special about Japanese culture.

Vivek Agarwal exclusive interview

The mission of your brand is to make good products for women and good products for the environment: what do they have in common? How can, in your opinion, a good environment affect and improve our way of life? Life exists because of a good environment and not the other way around. It is crucial that we take care of the eco-system for future generations and us. Otherwise, there won’t be life as we see it now. A product that doesn’t harm the environment should be a core tenet for everyone and not just us. We happen to be catering to women. In this context, I believe wearing products that don’t put a burden on the planet does make one feel better about doing the right thing and being smart. That feeling radiates outwards. You mention a “splash of nostalgia”: what do you mean?

As a 80s kid and 90s teen, I was fascinated by the larger-than-life photography of that era (and the United Colors of Benetton ads shot by Oliviero Toscani) and supermodels such as Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington. That era and the colors inspire our designs and photography. You are based in Los Angeles: does a close contact with the ocean impact your work? Definitely. Los Angeles has a laidback vibe that has been fuelled by the beach and the two major industries in the area - Fashion and Entertainment. It is safe to say that LA is the fifth Fashion Capital of the World. It is a major tourist destination, as well; we see people from all parts of the world visiting this beautiful city. The influx of people, the local talent and the fashion potpourri that it creates on the beach has inspired our designs and colors.

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But the name of your brand comes from Japan: why do you take inspiration from this country? I believe with OOKIOH, I have found my ikigai. It translates to ‘a reason for being’, a raison d’etre. Yes, OOKIOH is a play on the Japanese word ukiyo — the pleasure-seeking lifestyle of the Edo-Japan period (from around 1600 until the mid-1800s), and the Ukiyo-e prints that emerged from it. The Ukiyo-e, literally translating to “the floating world”, genre depicts scenes of travel, landscape, and female beauty, celebrating living in the moment and escaping the bothers of life. It aligned perfectly with what I had envisioned for my swimwear line – Hence the name. And it is not just the Ukiyo-e paintings; there is so much to get inspired by and learn from Japanese history and culture, such as Wabi Sabi. Personally, the most important of them is shokunin. It means dedicating life to honing the technical skills and perfecting the

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craftsmanship, and also implies an attitude and social consciousness. A shokunin has an obligation, both spiritual and material, to work for what is good for the society. How is the idea born and how did you develop your brand through years? I saw a gap in the market. While there were stylish and sustainable swimwear brands out there, they were either overpriced, too racy or too serious. OOKIOH was founded with the primary goal of providing style-forward and conscious swimwear at an affordable price point, while having fun and celebrating women for who they are, and whomever they want to be. We are for all bodies and bodies of water. The idea was conceptualized in the summer of 2017, and we launched in 2018. We are almost a year old! I have big plans for OOKIOH, and we have lots to work on and develop, and I look forward to the journey.

Why did you decide to focus on sustainability? I never thought that focusing on sustainability was an option. I have always believed that it is a responsibility and an obligation. Sustainability is a central topic nowadays and we cannot avoid the problem: young generations seem to be more aware of it but brands should drive the change firstly. What brands could do to make it happen the shortest time possible? I have always believed that making sustainable choices shouldn’t be a burden on the customers alone. The onus is on all of us, and in the fashion domain it is on the brands first. There are a number of things that can be done and some of them require complete revamp of supply chains, and that could take a while. But every step and measure counts. Some of the steps that can immediately be taken are: •Believe in the responsibility and the need to change. •Be transparent. (I refer above all to those companies that build their image around supposed positive behaviors, but which actually still produce in a non-sustainable way - the so-called “greenwhasing”). •Offer designs that will stand the test of time, i.e. style over trends. •Offer better quality products that last longer.

How does the production work: (where do you take inspiration from), how do you think about female body and its needs while creating a new item? We take our inspiration from the ‘80s sportswear aesthetics and colors, ‘90s Supermodels, and the ‘90s world of United Colors of Benetton, J.Crew and Esprit; we then blend it with modern sensibilities and California vibes. When I conceptualized it, the idea was to look at swimwear from a female-perspective and not a “male gaze”. Fortunately, I have an all-women team that brings that vision to life; I am the only male in the whole group. Once the initial designs and samples are made, we test it out to see how the fit looks on different body types. Diversity is important to us. When we pick colors, we try to find a convergence of what we anticipate would work and whether they look great on various skin tones.

But most important, where do you take materials and fabrics from and how the process work? We source our fabrics from an Italian manufacturer. The fabric used to make OOKIOH pieces is made from a 100% post-consumer waste polyamide yarn/ regenerated waste materials i.e. post-consumer waste (i.e., end-of-life products) made from Polyamide including fishing nets, fluff (the top part of carpets and rugs) and rigid textiles and pre-consumer waste such as oligomers, scraps, and others generated from the production of Nylon.

I believe that to mitigate the damage done by excessive consumption and fast fashion, sustainably made products need to be mass consumed. This would allow more recycling and upcycling, and we may be able to negate some of the harm. And for that consumption level, the prices should be for the masses and not for a select few. I believe that the traditional retail markups have not been set in stone - We offer lower prices by reducing our profit margins.

Last one, what’s your plan for the future? Where do you see you brand in next five years? I am working on a couple of other projects. The roadmap for OOKIOH, over the next five Sustainable products are usually expensive: years, includes: how do you manage to keep your price “low” 1. Going plastic-free in the next three years, and very affordable? i.e. use sustainable packaging options. Sustainable choices don’t have to be expensive 2. Scaling enough to be able to manufacture - the costs do increase, but not exponentially. in the USA so that we can reduce our carbon The cost burden is passed on to the footprint. customers, often as a premium. It is sold at a 3. Being financially capable of offering two higher price because a majority of the collections per year. companies use “sustainable” as a marketing 4. Diversifying the product portfolio to tool to increase the selling price. include apparels and accessories that align with OOKIOH’s vibes and values.

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DEBENHAMS.COM

fSTAGE irst Those days long past of chasing the wind, of asking each other for a kiss and wanting a hundred more, one of these days you’ll remember them. You, love who runs away, will come back to me. One of these days you’ll remember them. You, love that flees, to me will return. And you who with eyes of a different color tell me the very same words of love, in a month, in a year, you’ll have forgotten them. Love who comes to me, from me you will flee. In a month, in a year, you’ll have forgotten them. Love who comes to me, from me you will flee. Hailing from sunshine or from cold, cold shores, lost in November or with a summer breeze, I loved you always, I never loved you, you, love, who comes and who goes. I loved you always, I never loved you, you, love, who comes, you, love, who goes. © 1966 Fabrizio De André (English translation) “Amore che vieni, Amore che vai” Art Direction Rachel Freeman Photography Drew Shearwood Style Alicia Ellis Female Models Nina K c/o Titanium Model Management, Courtney Smith c/o MP Management Male Model Sandy Nuttall Makeup Rachel Freeman using Anastasia Beverly Hills Hair Style Chloe Frieda using Color Wow

Opening: Dress Mango | Total look King and Tuckfield Opposite: Top, Tights Wolford

Opposite: Pants Norma Kamali | Top Emma Pake | Shoes Robert Clergerie

Top Elliss | Opposite: Dress Clio Peppiatt | Suit Richard James

Top Norma Kamali

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Christian Marcaly. April, 12 - September, 24 An exhibition dedicated to the Swiss-American artist Christian Marcaly, now based in London, takes place at MAC-Ba, Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona, all along the summer. Marcaly’s art works are mainly inspired by music and its relationship with other forms of art and, at MAC-Ba, the audience can experiment both sounds and visual installations. All of them are shaped on techniques and montage coming from musical world, and they show Marcaly’s tendency to engage with audience. Installations come from different periods in the life of the artist and testify various influences, but they all share the same collaborative asset, which requires an active participation of the public. Marcaly also entered the fashion world, early this year, collaborating with Hedi Slimane in the creation of the first (highly criticized) collection by Celine. The collaboration was basically a work of translation: video representations by Marcaly translated by Slimane into patterns and embroidered fabrics. Mary Quant and the miniskirt. April, 6 - February At V&A Museum of London the spotlight is on Mary Quant’s irreverent design. Her figure is forever linked with the miniskirt, bound to change the life of million of women worldwide, but her designs have been extremely important for the revolutionary 60s in general. From the second wave of feminism to the sexual emancipation, fashion was a milestone in the changing life of the young generation. The exhibition traces back all Quant’s works in fashion during the period between 1966 to 1975, with a special focus on the miniskirt, showing more than 200 clothes and accessories, some of them coming straight from the private collection of the designer and never seen on a stage before. This is a great opportunity to discover more about feminism and its development, but also a good chance to feel the electricity of that exciting period, at the end of the 60s. Camp: notes on fashion. May, 9 - September, 8 If you google “camp” you’ll find some definitions all including words as “affectation, artifice, extravagance” and again “camps is something popular, and vulgar and innocent at the same time”. New York’s MET’s new exhibition is all about the world of kitsch and its relationship with fashion: starting from the 60s, when pop culture has been evaluated for the first time and has been brought into art, until today, passing through famous designers’ collections inspired by camp, to better understand what are the connections. At the very beginning of the exhibition Susan Sontag’s investigation in Notes on Camp, a book about the passion for the unnatural and the excess. According to the author, camp culture had a huge influence over art and culture in the last period of time, even if it has always been undervalued by scholars. The very well-known MET Ball (a must seen for fashion lovers but also for gossip addicted) opened the exhibition, as every past year, and asked to guests to give a personal interpretation of the subject through apparel and accessories. Yves Saint laurent. February, 12 - December, 31 The Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris, dedicated to the great French designer, together with the permanent exhibition, displays every year a focus on a specific period or collaboration of the Maison. This year the temporary exhibition celebrates the famous Mondrian dresses, that YSL designed in 1965 based on the works of art of the German painter. Mondrian was at that time a niche artist and he eventually became famous worldwide thanks to Yves Saint Laurent himself. The collaboration with Mondrian was indeed the first meeting between fashion world and modern art. Today Mondrian dresses are a cult and they have been copied by many designers. Some of them, such as Nicolas Saint Grégoire’s, are exhibited at the Museum, together with the real ones.

LATEST art by Giulia Greco

Christian Marclay watch the music at MAC-Ba

Mary Quant in London 1965 -France Gamma Keystone - Getty

Courtesy of metmuseum.org

Mondrian Collection at Haagse Gemeente museum, 1966, Photo by Eric Koch

all images courtesy of www.msccruises.co.uk

LATEST PARADISE

Tropical Essence: Ocean Cay MSC Marine Reserve A place of stimulating colour, glowing sun, pastel sunsets, gentle breezes and an abundance of green: an island, a love artwork, a gift to nature. Ocean Cay is a unique island and a Caribbean heaven, an exclusive spot for vacationing in harmony with nature, in one of its most astonishing locations. MSC Cruises is transforming a former industrial sand extraction site into a private pearl of Bahamas that will await guests from 9th November 2019: an eco-friendly paradise destination that has been designed to immerse guests in the natural beauty surroundings as well as providing opportunities to learn about the protection of the oceans and the importance of preserving coral reefs.

A flourishing marine reserve with uninterrupted ocean views, crystal clear waters and with over two miles of beautiful white pure sandy beach, a guest experience that complements the breath-taking natural beauty of this remarkable part of the Caribbean. Ocean Cay with its seven distinct beach areas, each with their own allure and character, is an exotic paradise with turquoise, sometimes

emerald green waters perfect for any kind of protected water sports. A tropical oasis, where words cannot convey the sublime elegance of this place, but only experiencing an incomparable panorama, surrounded by unobstructed views of natural beauty at nearly every turn, it is possible to understand it is not a dream but a really authentic natural paradise.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Connect with the natural world, feel the warmth of the Bahamian spirit and immerse in an eco-friendly environmentâ&#x20AC;?. A wonderful opportunity to protect a little corner of paradise and helping to return the beaches and coral reefs surrounding the island, to their pristine state. A marine laboratory and

a coral nursery are being established to encourage and sustain the growth of new climate change-resistant coral. The project was developed to create a long-term impact on the environment as well as on the Bahamian community, for this reason MSC Cruises used local materials and suppliers wherever possible. p.165

Nature made it Beautiful, we made it Unique.

Who has never pronounced the word “Bahamas” at least once, dreaming an earthly paradise, a pure area, crystal clear waters where cohabit rare species of animals and tropical fruits? This idyllic place coincides with realty: Ocean Cay MSC Marine Reserve, an oasis that has already the ingredients of a natural paradise with the aim to ensure that the island is sustainable and to minimise unnecessary waste, offering to the guests a wide choice of lush services. It can be hard to avoid getting lost in the extraordinary beauty of water games or falling into an absolute deep relax on the sugar sandy beaches. No cars or roads, only an uncontaminated nature framing this unique island. Imagine yourself sitting on the bow of your cruise ship staring the ocean. The first rays of the sun take on golden hues and the soft clouds let know the day is coming. A solitary heron flies over the water looking for fishes, the prelude to an unforgettable day. The ship docks and becomes an integral part of the experience, crossing the jetty you will become part of this pure and uncontaminated nature and the immediate sense of peace and the Bahamas’ essence: serenity and alienation from a modern civilisation. The morning begins with relax in a cabana on the beach while sipping refreshing cocktail, and the gaze is getting lost into a crystal-clear sea that stands out in front of you until the horizon, and, behind you, a luxuriant flora among majestic palm trees, roses, birds of paradise and wonderful trim lawn. Handsome atmosphere, the air with the scent of salt and exotic floral fragrances, and a gentle breeze billows it fluttering against body;

unplug yourself and relax with the hot sand under bare feet and in the background the sound of the ocean. Choose among a wide variety of exciting activities at Ocean Cay Island, perfect for fun and sun seekers. From snorkeling to discover the bight colours of coral reefs to flying on a paradise adventure with views of untouched cays and beaches. Explore the wildlife and experience the extraordinary adventure diving alongside the unique and bizarre creatures that inhabit this lively tropical universe. After the snorkelling experience, you can rent a private island with white sugar beach. Here, sipping a rum or fruit punch, you can find your peace, the clearest turquoise water in the world, on a floating lounge chair while enjoying the magnificent panorama of coast and marine life. The afternoon moves around the iconic and lively beach of Lighthouse Bay where authentic Caribbean atmospheres balanced between millenary traditions and rhythmic music. Here a red and white lighthouse rises 30 feet above the island, providing a striking landmark and a useful orientation point. Here guests can find a Hemingway- style cocktail bar offering drinks, live music with DJs, all with an incredible sea views. It’s the perfect spot to take a break and delight with the breath-taking Caribbean sunset. Take home unique and special memories of the island thanks to the Bahamian Shop & Market offering authentic arts and crafts by local artisans and Bahamian companies to present perfectly complement the spirit of the Bahamas. The ideal area to have fun while shopping. By Veronica Valdambrini

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“The struggle of many professional photographers is to make images that have the same purity of heart as the family snapshot” - Alec Soth From the paradise of the Bahamas to Morocco, with great naturalness and simplicity we explore here a warm sandy horizon, scented with cumin and mint green tea

D E S E R T

D U S K

PHOTOGR APHY ALE X HUTCH I NSON S T YLE

CO U R T N E Y

SM I T H

MODEL NINON HAUSWIRTH C/O M I L K M O D E L M A N AG E M E N T MAKEUP & HAIR STYLE NICKI BUGLEWICZ

Jumpsuit River Island | Necklace Mignonne Gavigan

Top Preen by Thornton Bregazzi | Belt bag River Island | Skirt Rejina Pyo | Shoes Whistles Opposite: Hat Sensi Studio | Coat Acne Studios

Jumpsuit & Other Stories | Shoes Whistles Opposite: Dress Rejina Pyo

Opposite: Blazer Zara | Trousers River Island

Pullover Victoria, Victoria Beckham | Earring Y/Project

Earrings Mignonne Gavigan by Loulerie.com Opposite: Sleeveless coat Dries Van Noten | Top Dries Van Noten | Shorts H&M Studio | Coat around waist Marks & Spencer

Opposite: Shirt & Trousers H&M Conscious | Shoes Whistles

JOHNLEWIS.COM

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@latestmagazine

@thelatestmagazine

thelatestmagazine

latestmagazine.net