DIGITAL S/S 2021 issue #18 ENGLISH

NEWLOOK.COM

MATALAN.CO/UK

DUNELONDON.COM

CONTENTS 26

Editor's Letter 8 On the Field - editorial 12 Afiya Bennett - cover story interview with the super model 26 Sull'Orlo dell'Estate - editorial 40 Fashion Trends: what we're going to love this season 54 Rock the Discoteque - editorial 72 ART Exhibitions not to be missed 85 The Age of Luxury - editorial 86 Dan Pontarlier tells us how to live a sustainable and stylish life 96 The Factory - editorial 100 BEAUTY Beautyproducts for this summer?

The Answer is Fruit Power - 114 Be Yourself - editorial 126 Lavanya Coodly tells us about her fashion brand - interview 136 Urban Trashy Tailored Cowgirl - editorial 144 ACCESSORIES The perfect accessory guide for this spring / summer - 158 Blackout - editorial 170 The Changeable Bags of Elba Concept - interview 182 Linear Shapes - editorial 188 The Sustainable universe of Maren Jewellery - interview 196 All Out - editorial 202 DESIGN Let's find out how truly is sustainability, recycling & upcycling in interior design - 212 Avventura di Primavera - editorial 218

EDITOR'S LETTER 202

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assword: Middle Way. Evasion + Awareness. During these months I often wondered if I would have preferred (for obvious reasons) to give this issue a more festive or more internalised connotation. The reality is I've never agreed with 100% bad or 100% good story characters. There is no black and white in the real life. The right way is always the middle way. Clearly, thinking about the past year, it would be foolish to say that we don't lack parties or levity of mind. I think this is the case for everyone and I am therefore happy to have realised editorials where we can smile and imagine spending a total freedom time with friends. At the same time, the awareness that this is not possible is still here yet, and hence the deeper reasoning regarding various current issues, obvious fears for the future and search for solutions. This is therefore not a totally insane or introverted issue, and LATEST in general will never be like this.

We like the seriousness but also the necessary carefree to be able to be socially/politically active enough, when needed.

Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione

Marta Forgione

NEXT.CO/UK

Editor’s letter PRESIDENT, CHIEF EDITOR Marta Forgione m.forgione@latestmagazine.net Raimondo Scintu, 78 street- 00173 Rome (Italy)

CONTRIBUTORS: WRITERS Giulia Greco Ludovica Mucci Marta Forgione PHOTOGRAPHERS Matallana, Ekin Can Bayrakdar Domenico Petralia, Zoe Mcconnell Giorgio Figini, Petra Vaessen Weronika Kosińska, Alex Van Der Steen Paul Whitfield, Stefano Lanza Anthony Arquier, Norbert Bäres Shauna Summers & Matthias Leton Simon Lesley AGENCIES INVOLVED Select Model Management, Munich Models Stella Creatives Artists, Premium Models, Carol Hayes Management, Women Management Production Link, Fashion models, PRM Brave Models, Freelancer agency Passepartout4u, Wonderwall Milan X Management, Premier Model Management Matt Models Amsterdam, 100% Managment Airport Agency, Gary represents A-Management, Iconic Management

ADVERTISING adv@latestmagazine.net

Rome Italy 2021 | p.iva 15126391000 ROC registration n. 32682 Bi-annual publication by LATEST srls unipersonale in March/April and September/October.

Printed by Facciotti s.n.c price on website latestmagazine.net: print €15 - digital €4

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JOHNLEWIS.COM

on FIELd the With March approaching we can (almost) declare the winter over while welcoming the new spring. Days get longer, air gets warmer, trees cover themselves with baby leaves and the first flowers gently pop up. This type of climate really invites us to get out and enjoy the open air and, even if many of us are going through another lockdown, it is a good idea to make the most of every occasion to have a walk in Nature. To completely profit of the situation wear something harmonising with surrounding. Brown and beige colour palette, cream white and a touch of orange and yellow, which lights up the spirit. They remind us that wellbeing is made of several elements together: outfits are not to be underestimated, because they change the perception we have of ourselves.

Photography Ekin Can Bayrakdar Style Joanne M Kennedy Model Madu c/o Select Model Management Hair Style Christos Bairabas c/o Stella Creatives Artists Makeup Kenny Leung c/o Carol Hayes Management Photography Assistance Marta Gonzalez

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Suit Tibi Suit Jacket (worn underneath) Low Classic at Mytheresa Shoes Fendi Opposite: Coat Bora Aksu Dress Ganni Boots Giuseppe Zanotti

Coat Rejina Pyo Top Tibi at Mytheresa Skirt Balenciaga at Mytheresa Boots Malone Souliers

Top, Skirt Barbara Bui Opposite: Dress Jacquemus at Mytheresa Boots Roker

Top, Skirt Sharon Wauchob Boots Laurence Dacade Opposite: Top Ganni Skirt Burberry at Mytheresa Boots Clergerie

Full Look Ralph & Russo Opposite: Dress Giambattista Valli Shoes Salvatore Ferragamo

Dress Molly Goddard Boots Aquazzura Opposite: Jumper, Cape Joseph

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Hat Clyde Full look King & Tuckfield Shoes A.W.A.K.E. MODE ON COVER: Dress Jacquemus Earrings Ursa Major

Afi ya

Photography Daniel Matallana Style Erin McSherry Model Afiya Bennett c/o Women Management New York Hair Style Niko Weddle using Sensationnel Hair Makeup Jalessa Jaikaran c/o M+A World Group using Armani Beauty Post Production Stains Production Lloyd Dickenson

BENNETT Since the first editorial, when she was only 15, Afiya Bennett has come a long way. Model, influencer and great inspiration for young girls on the crucial issues of beauty and female empowerment, now here the cover star of our latest issue. Afiya Bennett continues to inspire with her strong and bold character, especially through The Afiya Collection, her brand that aims at making women feel strong and good in themselves. Bennett believes in the solidarity between women, and that’s what she always tries – and succeed to - to convey through her work. We had the pleasure to speak with her about these important issues, also considering the problems related with racism in fashion and her experience in the industry being a black model.

interview by Ludovica Mucci - up to page 37

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How did your career start? Have you always wanted to be a model or influencer?

Believe it or not, I did not always want to be a model nor influencer. I grew up as a dancer and playing sports - volleyball captain to be exact! I also have always had this love and passion for animals, so somehow someway I thought I was going to be a veterinarian. But modeling came about when an elderly couple from my church mailed me an ad for a local modeling school. At that moment the idea of actually becoming a model seemed like something I could pursue. When my parents chose to invest in the school, modeling went from an idea to something tangible. Little did I know that I had a long road ahead of me. For the first time I thought “Wow! You can finally use your differences in being taller than everyone to be great and to succeed." At the tender age of 15 I was so excited to meet other young girls that looked like me and were my height, for once I felt like I fit in.

My career took a turn when I was published in my first editorial and then at the age of 18 when I went on to compete as Naomi Campbell’s mentee on her hit show “The Face” on oxygen. The television show went on to open many doors for me including gaining me a fan base and then eventually signing me with a modeling agency in NYC, traveling the world. From here, I went on to grace many covers and be the face of top campaigns like Neutrogena, Tom Ford Beauty, Givenchy Beauty, Estee Lauder, Laura Merceir, Mac Cosmetics etc, and I am forever grateful for my humble beginnings.

“Strength is always in numbers” this is one the many powerful statements that appears on the about page of your luxury hats brand The Afiya Collection. Can you tell us a bit more about it?

Is there someone who inspired you in the creation of this brand?

The Statement “Strength is in numbers” is such a powerful statement. As women, as we branch off into creating businesses starting new career paths, and even furthering our education, standing together makes us feel empowered and

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confident enough to tackle anything that comes our way. Having the support from another woman, being able to shed an ounce of advice or guidance, or even buying another women’s product unites us and makes us feel as if we truly conquer anything.

I know what it feels like to need that support and what a world of difference it made having it. I created the Afiya brand because it embodies standing together in solidarity. It’s for ladies who do not want to take ‘No’ for an answer. The Afiya Collection is here to inspire young girls to keep their heads up by following their dreams and not backing down. This collection is for women around the world to be reminded that they have the support of other women and that they have the power to achieve anything.

Women empowerment is an issue that is very dear to you. The Afiya Collection is an example of that. Are you working on more projects on this important theme?

Female empowerment means taking the limits off — taking the barriers off for women. It also means encouraging the next woman and uplifting her.

For as long as I can remember I've been told "no."

For as long as I can remember society puts restrictions on what we can do, or they have a way of telling us who we are. As women, we have to be very clear on the woman we want to be. We cannot be afraid to be that person. So yes, you're a mom.

Yes, you're a business owner. Yes, you're an educator. You are all these amazing aspects of a woman; you cannot be afraid to be that. Also, it's about supporting women. Supporting that woman and her endeavors, giving that back and passing that forward.

Women empowerment is what keeps me going.

Being able to uplift and inspire the next little girl, makes me feel as if my work in the fashion industry has a far greater meaning. Being able to inspire, uplift and encourage the next women to follow her dreams truly makes me feel like I have accomplished a good deed as a model.

As I’m expanding The Afiya Collection into clothes, I look forward to taking my mission from hats to the style of clothes that I will produce.

Total Look Miu Miu

Full Look Brunello Cucinelli Shoes Hyke Earrings Pamela Love

Blazer Pann Top Rosetta Getty Pants Sportmax Shoes Cult Gaia Rings Lady Grey Opposite: Full Look Rejina Pyo Shoes Khaite Earrings Lady Grey

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How has your creative industries journey been so far? Have you ever experienced cases of racism due to the color of your skin or simply because you’re a woman? What is your coping mechanism to these offenses?

My journey in the fashion industry has surely had its ups and downs, as any other model, but as a model of color our story is always unique. Although I cannot recall a time where I received blatant racism on set, I have been subject to not receiving certain jobs because of my body figure or because being an American model of color isn't seen as exotic or trending at the moment. Unfortunately, being a model of color can feel as if we are an article of clothing, where one moment we are trending and the next we are not. It often feels as if one moment African models are in season, the next moment being ethnically ambiguous models are in season, the next girls with braids are in season, so on and so forth. The question has always become, how do we make progress in our careers when it feels like we are not in season at the moment? I have never truly felt as if being an American model of color has ever been trending, except during the Black Lives Matter Movement after the passing of George Floyd. For that reason, it always feels as though I have to push for each opportunity that I have received.

My coping mechanism has definitely been my faith in God, my family support, and keeping a balance between my relationships in the fashion industry and those outside of it. I would be lying if I said that it was easy being a model of color in fashion striving toward Greatness. But those wins that I receive along the way make it feel all worth it. The wins balance out the losses and make me optimistic towards what the future has to offer. I have also come to peace with the idea that whichever opportunity is for me, is for me and that can’t be taken away. As long as I am truly growing in career I am happy.

What advice would you give to a young girl who wishes to have your career one day? How do you measure your accomplishments?

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For young girls who wish to have my career I would advise them to “study your craft”; figure out what kind of model you want to be and if that doesn't exist don't be afraid to create your own lane. I think that the fashion industry is starting to embrace the differences that each individual has to offer, and there is no better time to walk in the beauty of self-love than now. I believe that as we embrace our own light and beauty, others start to do the same; it starts with self-love. No one is going to be your greatest fan more than you. Truly believing in yourself starts with loving yourself, for all you have to offer in all of your beauty.

Learning who the greatest photographers, designers and creatives are is so important because it allows you to be knowledgable on set and it prepares you as to who you should aspire to work with. Lastly, I would tell them to learn or create your niche. The great thing about the fashion industry in 2021 is that it is far more inclusive than it was many years ago. There are now plus size Supermodels and Trans models as well.

The Industry is no longer as black and white as it used to be, and there is no greater time to create your own lane if you don't fit, the time is now.

For many years I struggled with trying to figure out which lane I fit in, I often felt like every part of me was being told there was something wrong with me.

You're too tall, shoulders too broad, breast too big, you’re not dark enough, you’re not light enough, or you’re not exotic enough, or the classic, you’re not different enough. After almost ten years in the fashion industry I am just now getting to place where I can see and accept the beauty in myself just the I am. The fashion industry is filled with some of the most beautiful women in the world, yet we are always being broken down and told what’s wrong with us.

I want all budding models to stop and take a look in the mirror and say, “I am Beautiful”.

No matter what anyone told them today, “I am Beautiful”.

There is more power in those worlds than any campaign or magazine can ever give you because it transcends modeling, it builds self-worth and that just surpasses fashion.

Dress Bronx And Banco

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Do you have a particular role model who inspires you to give your best each day?

I have several role models in the fashion industry that inspire me for very different reasons. My top three role models are Naomi Campbell, Tyra Banks and Iman. One thing that I love about Naomi is her ability to transcend generations. She has been modeling for over 30 years and is still producing greatness. She has and continues to make her mark and open doors for models of color by setting the example in high profile fashion campaigns.

I admire how Tyra Banks has not only made her mark in fashion but has also made her mark in television. She has not only walked top fashion shows and graced exceptional covers but she was a host of her own television show for many years (The Tyra Show), then went on to start America’s next Top Model and create a platform for other models to flourish. I personally identify with her career choices and see myself walking in her footsteps because I myself would love to transcend from modeling back into television and then into hosting.

Iman inspires me because of her success in fashion industry but also in the Beauty industry. I admire how she has been able to launch and flourish in her Beauty line, Iman cosmetics. The beauty industry is extremely competitive, and I admire how she has been able to successfully create a reputable brand that is sold in every mainstream beauty retailer.

All of these women shine and are unique in their own way, and I see myself in all of them.

From their tenacity in making their stamp in the fashion industry, to using their influence to branch out into other industries, these women are truly inspirational. I hope that one day my legacy is as great as theirs and that Afiya becomes a household name as theirs has become.

What’s your morning and wellness routine? Any favorite make-up and skin-care brands?

My morning routine consists of washing my face with Cerave foaming facial wash, followed by moisturizing with Weleda Skin food in the winter months and Embryolissee Lait Creme in the warmer months. If my face is feeling dry, I will hydrate with Neutrogena hydro boost moisturizing mask and if my face is feeling like it needs a deep pore cleaning,

I will use St. Ives facial scrub which takes away any white or black heads. This is only good to use when needed because it can make your skin dry. My skin definitely changes in the winter months to summer months, and I try to adjust my skin regime based on that. I also love to incorporate a good sunscreen into my facial regime. One of my favorites is from Solid and Stripe. What I love about their sunscreen is that it doesn't leave a white cast on my skin like most sun sunscreens do. It has an amazing texture and is transparent.

I definitely have a few tricks that I use to give my skin an extra boost in the morning. For starters, I will freeze a spoon and use it underneath my eyes for any bags. I hold the spoon underneath my eyes as a compress for about 30 seconds and then switch eyes. Another trick that I use is to rub an ice cube all over skin and that helps to tighten my skin and give it an extra boost in making it look fresh. On the weekends, I absolutely love to use the home steamer to hydrate and rejuvenate my skin. I add water, oil, and lemon juice to my steamer and sit underneath it from intervals of ten minutes and definitely leaves my face feeling refreshed and ready to tackle the week. These are great tips to incorporate in between getting facials and other treatments at the spa.

Has pandemic changed your view of the world?

How did the pandemic affect your career?

The Pandemic has changed my view of life as whole. It has given me an appreciation for the small things that we take for granted on a daily basis.

Things like health, the ability to give your love ones a hug and a kiss, the ability to work and socialize, and even the ability to go out and go for a walk.

It has also put in perspective the ventures that I invest my time into and how they serve me and contribute to my purpose in life. The pandemic has encouraged me to keep a healthy balance between work and my personal life. It truly made me think about who would be there for me if I was truly sick and awakened me to not wait or put off calling and checking on my loved ones. We often wait to the holidays' time to call and check on loved ones, but the pandemic allowed me to see the significance in normalizing staying connected. The pandemic taught me to invest just as much time into my loved ones as I do my career.

Hat Clyde Top Brunello Cucinelli Bottom Adeam Shoes Sacai

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Full Look Tibi Earrings Demarson Shoes Sacai

I love my career and am very proud of it, I want my legacy to be a reflection of the time I invested in it as well as the lives I inspired along the way and love that I show my family.

The Covid-19 pandemic was and still is in many ways an emotional and financial rollercoaster for the entertainment industry. It has been a time of uncertainty of life and health as well as job availability, consistency and the inability to travel.

My career has been drastically affected with the world being shut down and the travel restrictions.

I worried if the fashion industry would be able to recover from a time like this but with the vaccine, I believe that things are definitely starting to look and feel upwards. I have learned to appreciate each opportunity that comes my way, and accept the things I cannot change being optimistic towards the greater opportunity.

Favorite project you’ve worked on so far?

Two of the my favorite projects that I have worked on are the campaign for Neutrogena and Tom Ford Beauty. It is always refreshing to work with brands that I can identify with and have known my entire life. I love working for Beauty Brands, especially ones that make it a point to be inclusive of diversity. It continues to be my experience on set where makeup artist may or may not have my shade of makeup and I applaud brands that are making it a priority to be inclusive of models of color. It is still a struggle for diversity and inclusivity in the fashion industry as a whole and although there has been progress, it is always special to see myself represent models of color in high end Beauty advertisement. I think that seeing myself in Beauty advertisements adds to the lens at which Beauty is perceived and it encourages those do and do not look like me to feel included. Beauty advertisements for me are so important because they shape the way that little girls look at themselves and define Beauty.

If I can encourage a little girl to look in the mirror and say “I am Beautiful” then the legacy I am building in the fashion industry is well worth it.

How do you think the creative industries should propose more inclusivity in their projects? Do you think what it has been done up until now is acceptable or even enough?

I think that creative industries should propose more inclusivity in their projects by incorporating a wider range of models of color and minorities in their campaigns and social media outlets. Being a model of color is very broad and it would be great to see that range broadcasted in fashion advertisements. Often times on set, there is one model of color to five or six of our counterparts. I think it is time that the ratio of race and culture is proportionately distributed on set. It would also be amazing to give a voice to the talent and invite consumers into some aspect of the culture of those that are the face of a brand. For decades models were just seen but not necessarily heard. I think that apart of opening the platform to inclusivity is also giving a voice to models from all walks of life and inviting the consumers into some aspect of their culture. Imagine having a sense of Indian, Asian, American, African and Caucasian culture all in one advertisement? I personally believe that that’s what creative projects need. To open the platform past what we are already familiar with but inviting the consumer into aspects of culture that they may or may not be familiar with. I think that what has been done thus far is definitely a step in the right direction, but the inclusivity of models of color should not be a trend but something that is natural. At the moment brands have to be intentional about being inclusive because it hasn't been done frequent enough in the past. However, my goal is that the fashion industry gets to a point where inclusivity comes naturally and doesn't have to be forced.

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Full Look Jason Wu Earrings Elle Qui Vit Opposite: Top Atlerier Biser Bottom Tibi Shoes A.W.A.K.E MODE Earrings Lady Grey

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sull'orlo dell'estate

Summer love, the thing that kept us busy Summer love, the thing that drives us crazy but summer love always ends Summer lovers, think it's forever Summer lovers, try to put in the effort but summer lovers aways end up as friends Summer romances, the relationships that feels never-ending Summer romances, the thing on Instagram that's "trending" but summer romances are going to be dead-ends Summer, the warmest time in the year Summer, the time when adults celebrate by grabbing a beer, but summer will come and go Summer love, you will never know how it turns out but summer love, will never work out Summer lovers, love each other very much but summer lovers, will lose touch Summer romance, could be your year's highlight but summer romance, is why you will have to say goodbye Summer will always be in your heart Sometimes you will need a fresh start and save the memories, but remember the happy times - Summer Love by Hailey on hellopoetry.com

Photography, Art Direction, Set Design Domenico Petralia c/o Production Link Style Nadia Bonalumi Models Natalia Napieralska c/o Fashion models & Rose Ndiaye c/o Brave models Hair Style Barbara Bertuzzi c/o Freelancer agency Makeup Lucia Giacomin using Qstudio makeup rp Style assistance Stefania Furiosi Production Passepartout4u by Johannes March Post Production Virgil Hritcu Photography Assistance Fabio Massari, Chiara Lormarini Special thanks to Bar Studio

Drop-needle stitch Maxi Top, Dress & Pants all SIMONA MARZIALI at MRZ

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Blouse, Skirt, Pants & Earring all ACNE STUDIOS Opposite: Jersey Body, Skirt ALESSANDRO VIGILANTE Black Diamond Clutch BENEDETTA BRUZZICHES

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Lace minidress, Brass earrings with pearls and crystals all STELLA McCARTNEY

Bustier dress PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI Shirt INES DE LA FRESSANGE X UNIQLO Opposite: Popeline Trench - Bci TORY BURCH Earrings ILENIA CORTI VERNISSAGE

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Tailored suit in three-dimensional seersucker fabric and nappa leather sandals all SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Opposite: Linen twill dress SPORTMAX

Trousers, double crepe blazer with leather band and sandals all MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Opposite: Cotton drill jacket, Crepe de chine top, Ivory stretch poplin trousers ALBERTA FERRETTI Sling-back sandals in nappa leather SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Sweater with bare back, shirt, longuette skirt with all embroidery N° 21 BY ALESSANDRO DELL'ACQUA

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PRETTYLITTLETHING.COM

must have words Giulia Greco

Making predictions is today more difficult than ever, even (or perhaps, especially) in the fashion world. Thinking about the upcoming summer trends we first had to ask ourselves what will be of our summer itself: specifically, will we be "free" or not? We hope it will be, at least, similar to the last one: we, therefore, hope for some freedom, and serenity and joy. It is an optimistic vision, which forged the mood with which we immersed ourselves in seasonal trend forecasting. We need (imperative!) to find some lightness, and we want to do it through clothes.

What better opportunity then?

If this is the spirit with which we selected the Spring Summer 2021 trends, other considerations also came into play along the way and slighlty changed our trajectory.

Fashion is increasingly season-less, gender-less, trend-less. What does it mean? Simply that we are moving towards a more fluid reality, in which personality and individual inspiration are of main importance. It does not matter if something is in season, if it hasn't been seen on any catwalk, or if you found it in the menswear department. If you wear it with personality, then it will impress those around you. This brings countless advantages: you can re-evaluate your wardrobe, for example, but also easily steal from your partner/father/roommate/friend's closet.

Thus, our style tips require a great degree of involvement, and willingness to try unexpected combinations: print-block shirt and trousers, bras and statement details, such as the collars and platform shoes. Equally, you need (a lot) of personality even when you opt for a more basic style. Minimal is a dominant trend, for example, and while it looks easy, it's not at all. On the contrary, you need to have an eye for detail, focus on cuts and fabrics, choose a few but good pieces and never be boring.

Trends spring summer 2021

SWEATER

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Not ready to leave your sweatshirt for something more formal yet?

No problem, welcome to the club.

Loungewear and activewear have had (for obvious reasons) incredible success in the last year, and the number of luxury brands producing sportswear and street-inspired clothing is on the rise. Combine your sweatshirt with ultra-formal pieces, such as a blazer and precious jewels. This will create an interesting contrast.

Another interesting thing is the sweatshirt itself, and the brand that produces it: Hey Soho is attentive to materials, workers and the overall impact of the supply chain on the environment.

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1. Balenciaga SS2021 Runway show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2,3 Acne Studios double breasted blazer and pleated bermuda seen at mytheresa.com 4 Moncler small logo crossbody bag seen at mytheresa.com 5 Hey Soho sweater 85% organic cotton, 15% recycled polyester seen at hey-soho.com 6. Veja sneakers seen at farfetch.com 7. Third Crown 18kt gold plated ring seen at farfetch.com

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BACKLESS 4.

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Dresses and blouses with wide necklines on the back invaded the catwalks last fashion month, and we love it. Perhaps because the back, of all parts of the body, has a special sensuality, not vulgar or ostentatious: a wide neckline on the back can upgrade any look, in summer as in winter. This Ioannes dress is sensual because of its slight tightness on the body: we recommend combining it with grunge details, such as Stella McCartney's platform, Adina Reyter's chain chocker and the Marni maxi pendant. Perfect for a night out with friends.

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1. Givenchy SS2021 courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Jil Sander Mini Tangle bag seen at farfetch.com 3. Stella McCartney Platform ankle boots seen at farfetch.com 4. Marni Faux-pearl drop earrings seen at mytheresa.com 5. Ioannes Open-back printed maxi dress seen at net-a-porter.com 6. Gucci Beauty Nail Polish - Annabel Rose 212 seen at net-a-porter.com 7. Adina Reyter 14kt gold chain necklace seen at farfetch.com Opposite: courtesy of Dsquared2 SS2021

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BRA

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Speaking of sensuality, we must mention the bra, the absolute protagonist of the coming season.

Exposed underneath shirts, jackets and cardigans, it becomes precious when worn in the evening. It is an indisputable symbol of femininity and feminism and can be worn safely even during the day, respecting some rules. Pick a plain, knit one and pair it with fun, preppy pieces, like Altuzarra's blue Vichy midi skirt, Missoni's colourful headband and Roxanne First's necklace.

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Larsson & Jennings, watch €162 seen at farfetch.com

1. Etro runway SS20 show ph. Alessandro Lucioni / gorunway.com 2. Simone Rocha cotton dress seen attag-walk.com modaoperandi.com 1. MSGM SS2021 courtesy 3. Roxanne Assoulin gold plated 2. Bottega Veneta cottonbracelets blend softseen cupat bramodaoperandi.com seen at net-a-porter.com 4. Miu Miu velvet flats modaoperandi.com 3. Roxanne Firstseen pinkatgold 18kt with jade balls necklace seen at farfetch.com 5. Kayu4.

Onie Wickerwool Top-Handle Bag seen modaoperandi.com Altuzarra blend pencil skirtat seen at mytheresa.com 6. Prada5.Flower Raso Mini Top Handle Bag seen at modaoperandi.com AspesiEmbellished cardigan seen at farfetch.com Opposite: RiverSpade Islandplatform dress sandals seen at farfetch.com 6. Kate 7. Missoni crochet knit headband seen at net-a-porter.com Opposite: courtesy of Jacquemus SS2021 p.119 p.71 p.15 p.77 p.59

TRANSPARENT

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When we saw the Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2021 collection we immediately took note of the transparent silk tops: beautiful, precious and very sensual. Three adjectives that we would like very much to hear about us. A piece like this does not go unnoticed, and you have to be careful to create an outfit that can enhance it in the right way.

For us, the perfect combination is with the pink MSGM trousers and a Saint Laurent leather blazer. The contrast of materials and colours is very refined and interesting. We love Bea Bongiasca's jewels and Zimmermann's sandals have been on the wishlist for a while now.

Complete the look with a little healthy sustainability, with the shopper by Naditum.

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1. Fendi runway SS2021 show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Bea Bongiasca double vine topaz 9kt gold ring seen at matchesfashion.com 3. Saint Laurent sheer silk blouse seen at mytheresa.com 4. MSGM high-rise cotton twill trousers seen at matchesfashion.com 5. Naditum handmade bag in vegetable tanned natural leather - seen at naditum.com 6. Saint Laurent double breasted leather blazer seen at net-a-porter.com 7. Zimmermann Scallop leather sandals seen at mytheresa.com Opposite: Dior SS2021 photo courtesy - Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com

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MINIMAL

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Does anyone know the immense satisfaction in wearing a well-made pair of jeans and a perfectly cut white shirt?

For us it is almost a feeling of completeness, because when it happens - when we have a great fit and fresh materials - we feel extremely well dressed, with nothing else needed. Maybe that's why the minimal trend is one of our favourites. In addition to being a great passe partout, this look is also absolutely gender-less, another plus point of this trend from our point of view.

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1. Emporio Armani SS2021 | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Dior Eyewear sunglasses seen at mytheresa.com 3. More Joy water bottle seen at farfetch.com 4. Tresor jeans seen at matchesfashion.com 5. Dries van Noten cotton shirt seen at mytheresa.com 6. Carlotha Ray bow tie satin sandals seen at matchesfashion.com Opposite: courtesy of Giorgio Armani SS2021

Larsson & Jennings, watch €162 seen at farfetch.com

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NET 2.

Net fabrics, loose knitwear and embroidery are worn with a contrasting piece underneath, like the Hermès' runway look, or, if you're feeling daring, without anything but underwear. Our look is fresh and modern, declinable according to the occasion: the shirt (Sacai) and the palazzo trousers (Max Mara) match with different shoes and bags, and change their nature easily while maintaining a relaxed daily aesthetic. Leather flip flops are a classic The Row's Ginza model, but only this year they will be truly trendy. Comfortable and very stylish, what more could you ask for?

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1. Givenchy runway FW20-21 show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Fiorucci IPhone cover seen at farfetch.com 3. Max Mara linen wide legs pants seen at net-a-porter.com 4. Valentino Garavani hair clip seen at farfetch.com 5. The Row Ginza leathers platforms slides seen at mytheresa.com 6. Sacai net shirt seen at farfetch.com 7. Fendi medium leather tote bag seen at mytheresa.com

ONE PATTERN

2.

Miuccia Prada on the one hand, Alessandro Michele of Gucci on the other one: say prints and they are the two names popping on our mind. This year, prints go in layers, in a single block (yes, including the bag). The goal is to create a fun and irreverent look. Of course, if you start with a pattern-block of this type, you can't go bold with the rest. But a white sandal and a straw hat complete everything harmoniously, making you ready for that summer aperitif on the beach. Ah, don't forget a good perfume: many times that's all you need.

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1. Prada runway SS2021 show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Prada raffia bucket hat seen at mytheresa.com 3. ByRedo perfumed oil roll on seen at net-a-porter.com 4,5. Gucci X Ken Scott floral silk pants & shirt seen at mytheresa.com 6. Gucci X Ken Scott floral leather bag seen at net-a-porter.com 7. Jacquemus sandals seen at farfetch.com

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HOT PANTS

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Alongside Bermuda shorts, hot pants are back in vogue this summer. These denim ones are by Red Valentino and they are part of a refined and simple look, to be worn every day for running errands or for a downtown walk.

The sweater is signed by Rosie Assoulin and the play of overlaps (between a top below and a very short sweater above) is another minor trend for the spring season.

Tod's loafers and Marni's suede bag are timeless classics.

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1. Alberta Ferretti runway SS2021 show| photo courtesy Filippo Fior at Gorunway.com 2. Bang and Olufsen wireless earphones seen at net-a-porter.com 3. Bering classic watch seen at farfetch.com 4. Red Valentino denim shorts seen at mytheresa.com 5. Tod's suede loafers seen at mytheresa.com 6. Rosie Assoulin merino wool blend sweater seen at net-a-porter.com 7. Tod's small suede shoulder bag seen at mytheresa.com Opposite: courtesy of Saint Laurent SS2021

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PUFF SLEVEES

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The flashy, puffy and almost architectural shoulders have never gone out of style in the last year - they are, after all, the best Zoom-meeting-approved detail. Get ready to bring them into the summer season as well. Sabinna's jacket has big sleeves and an impacting print, and for this reason it is the protagonist of the entire outfit. You can combine it with matching monochromatic pieces, like the simple Isabel Marant chinos and Souliers Martinez's netted shoes, both in cream. The Jacquemus bag in electric blue is already a cult piece.

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1. Lanvin runway SS2021 show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Sophie Buhai silk organza hair tie seen at net-a-porter.com 3. Isabel Marant cotton and linen wide legs pants seen at mytheresa.com 4. Jacquemus suede shoulder bag seen at mytheresa.com 5. Sabinna puff sleeves flowers jacket seen at sabinna.com 6. Souliers Martinez woven leather pumps seen at mytheresa.com 7. Charlotte Tilbury eyeliner pillow talk seen at net-a-porter.com Opposite: Isabel Marant SS2021 Photo courtesy of Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

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2.

DISCO

Raise your hand if you miss the evenings out (at the club or everywhere else there is some music)! This look is for you, to make you dream of the reopening of the discos - yes, sooner or later that moment will come. Many designers have thought, fantasized, yearned for this to happen and have created suitable, definitely eye-catching looks to wear for our first night out. You can go with total black, but make sure you have an important accessory. The boots covered with crystals, signed by Paris Texas, and the long gloves with the Marine Serre logo are for you.

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1. Courtesy of Burberry runway SS2021 show 2. Jil Sander leather wallet seen at mytheresa.com 3. Marine Serre long gloves seen at farfetch.com 4. Paris Texas embellished suede knee high boots seen at mytheresa.com 5. Charlotte Tilbury hyaluronic lipstick seen at net-a-porter.com 6. Theory chiffon trimmed silk tank top seen at net-a-porter.com 7. Alex Perry crepe miniskirt seen at mytheresa.com

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STATEMENT COLLAR

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Along with puffy shoulders, collars are also huge. The Miu Miu polo shirt is simple but enhanced by this detail: it recalls sports uniforms and we wanted to underline its preppy side by combining it with a pleated Burberry skirt and Prada lace-ups. They are all archive pieces, modernized and made interesting by unexpected details, such as the chunky sole, the printed lettering and, indeed, the maxi pointed collar.

Sunglasses and chain make the outfit funny, while the bag, beautiful and sustainable in its manufacture, is signed by Naditum.

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1. Patou SS2021 collection | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Le Specs Outta Love oval-frame tortoiseshell acetate sunglasses seen at net-a-porter.com 3. Eliou Arther gold-plated, pearl and bead sunglasses chain seen at net-a-porter.com 4. Burberry logo pleated midi skirt seen at mytheresa.com 5. Naditum handmade bag in vegetable tanned natural leather seen at naditum.com 6. Miu Miu pique jersey polo shirt seen at mytheresa.com 7. Prada leather derby shoes seen at mytheresa.com

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Rock the Discoteque During the preparation of this Spring Summer 2021 issue we wondered for a long time if we preferred "the party team" or the "uncertain future post apocalyptic team". Most of designers this year have in fact acted as spokespersons for one of these two. Who is more inclined to think about the post-pandemic, the furious club parties and the nights out, having fun.

Who instead looked to the future as a bad ending of a science fiction film.

The reality is different for us and we therefore preferred to give one mix version of all the feelings, positive and negative of this strange and unrepeatable period.

The moments when we look out the window and think. We are really sure that everything will be fine and that we just have to be patient.

The superficial moments that everyone has that, now and then, know how to sweep away the melancholy. In these moments we have a laugh thinking about when we can wear club shoes and accessories again they will be out of season. The most reflective moments, in which there is also discouragement. In this story there is everything.

There is the desire to have fun again, to get ready to go out.

There is a hint of vanity in the eyes and poses, but also an underlying melancholy, the uncertainty of the future. There is the Truth of our moment.

Photography Zoe Mcconnell Style Natalie Read Model Eduarda Vieira c/o PRM Makeup & Nails Alexis Day using Danessa Myricks and Mavala Hair Style Elvire Roux c/o Carol Hayes management using Innersense Natural Haircare Digital Operator Nick Graham Lighting Carissa Harrod Assistance Grace Power

Top Zeynep Kartal Trousers Hildur Yeiman Bangles Pebble London Choker Retorfete

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Dress Huishan Zhang Necklace Pebble London Earrings Sahar BMD Opposite: Dress The Vampires Wife Necklace Pebble London Hair brooch Butler & Wilson Necklace Butler & Wilson Boots Natacha Marro

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Dress Temperley Boots Natacha Marro Earrings Saad Collection

Dress April & Alex Headpiece Awon Golding Ring Pebble London Opposite: Dress Galvan Duster coat Saropol Earrings Avena Sativa Shoes Essen

Top Zeynep Kartal Trousers Hildur Yeiman Bangles Pebble London Choker Retorfete Opposite: Suit Sorapol Necklace Sian Evans Boots Natacha Marro

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Top & skirt both Tim Ryan Boots (made to order) Mary Benson Earrings Alexandra Hakim Ring Wolf & Badger Opposite: Dress Natalie & Alanna Earrings Sian Evans Ring Pebble London Bracelet Alexandra Hakim

NUURA Apiales satin black smoked glass Chandelier €1,712.03 - nest.co.uk

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LATEST art words Giulia Greco Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum Everywhere - permanent Despite the gradual come back to museums, virtual exhibitions remain available and are very appreciated. If the idea does not appeal to you particularly, consider giving a chance to the Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum: it might turn out as pleasantly surprising. It is the first example of a permanent digital exhibition that comprehensively goes through the whole career of a great fashion designers. The project is engaging so that you won't get tired of being in front of the screen anytime soon. You can access the Museum via a dedicated app: it is developed in a succession of thematic rooms where you will be able to see (up close and at 360 °) 300 of the most iconic pieces, accompanied by sketches, fabrics, and photographs. An archive is also present, with a total of 5000 images and 95 videos. In short, it is a unique experience.

courtesy of Valentino

Courtesy of madmuseum.org | 45 stories in jewelry

Bags: Inside Out Victoria and Albert Museum, London - until the 12th of September To define the date of birth on the bag - the ultimate accessory - is rather hard: we should start from Ancient Egypt and travel in times until today, to realise the changes and adventures that this accessory has faced, without ever going out of fashion. A matter of practicality, perhaps, but, as with every fashion staples, the meanings of the bag are countless - social, political, feminist above all. An incredible story, to say the least, that the Victoria and Albert Museum in London has decided to put in order and make available to everybody until September 12th. Unique and rare pieces will be on display, connected by invisible threads to different themes. Design and creativity, functionality, beauty and craftsmanship.

Kusama: Cosmic Nature New York Botanical Garden, New York - 10/4/2021 - 31/11/2021 “Forget Yourself and Become One With Nature!” says Yayoi Kusama, worldrenowned Japanese artist landing at the New York Botanical Garden in April, and showing until the end of October. Her installations, grandiose and multi-sensorial, capture the viewers to accompany them in a supernatural journey, which arises from the natural contact with the environment. After a year of lockdown, this contact is more necessary than ever. Among the other artworks, a new version of the Infinity Mirrored Room will be presented, entitled Illusion Inside the Earth.

This time there is no need to get inside because the illusion is meant for the outdoor. The mirrors with which the cubic room is covered reflect the changing panorama of the New York nature that surrounds it: the constant mutation of its appearance becomes the symbol of the natural change of things.

Salgado Amazonia Cité de la Musique Philharmonie de Paris, Paris - 7/4/2021 - 22/8/2021 Nature is at the centre of Sebastião Salgado's work too. The famous Brazilian photographer has made his native land the starting and the ending point of his incredible career of photojournalism. The Philharmonie in Paris will reserve space for a brilliant selection of the most touching Salgado's photos of the Amazon Forest, accompanied by Jean-Michel Jarre's musical compositions, specifically created for the occasion and made from the natural sounds of the forest. Salgado's sensitivity has proved valuable on many occasions. To get an exhaustive overview of his work, we recommend watching The Salt of the Earth, the documentary tracing 40 years of career. The Salgado Amazonia exhibition is now truly necessary, not only because it satisfies our never-ending thirst for beauty, but also because it can help us reflect on the danger threatening this region daily, between brutal deforestation and forced farming.

Yayoi Kusama, Flower Obsession (Sunflower) courtesy of the NYBG

courtesy Sebastião Salgado, | Indiani Yawanawa, Stato di Acri, Brasile, 2016

Age of

LUXURY

We are perhaps about to reclaim a luxury age, a modern version.

It's not the idea of expensive fashion, of having to show (and demonstrate).

In a moment of great internalisation we can finally embrace the idea that having so many objects will not make us rich people.

True luxury is made up of a few refined pieces, designed and high level manufactured, pieces that will survive for years only with a little care.

If we are careful enough they could also will be part of the life of generations to come.

This way of living and managing what we want to buy speaks not only of fashion, but of interior design and all kind objects.

Let's learn again the importance of buying consciously.

Let's take care of these high-value objects, re-evaluate the life timelines that force us to run and risk dropping the antique plate, losing the sunglasses, tearing the sweater running down the stairs.

Photography Giorgio Figini Style Monia Pedretti Makeup, Hair Style Silvana Cimino Model Nikita Lauffer c/o Wonderwall Milano Special Thanks Hotel Principe di Savoia Milano

Dress Judy Zhang | Top Polo Ralph Lauren | Shoes Divine Follie | Sunglasses Genny

Dress Flavia Mardi | Pants Collini | Shoes Casadei | Opposite: Total Look Genny

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Total look Collini | Sunglasses Paul Riley

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Dress Genny | Hat Lariula’ | Shoes Twinset Opposite: Dress Odi Odi | Top Parosh | Shoes Aquazzura | Sunglasses Carita Paris

Set Judy Zhang | Belt Isabel Marant | Gloves Manokhi | Sunglasses Les Follies David Opposite: Dress Bartolotta&Martorana | Shoes Alessandro Oteri | Sunglasses Les Follies David

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FROM TRASH TO Runway. in conversation with:

Dan Pontarlier Sustainability is a growing trend and, for most of us, it is a new theme. However, some professionals have been working on it for quite some time: forerunners of the times or simply friends of the environment by nature, these people have accumulated experiences on the topic over the years and they now can influence the general “green change” through their knowledge.

This is the case of Dan Pontarlier, who has been working in the hotel and fashion industries for fifteen years and is involved in, among other things, sustainable development. We spoke with him on the launch of his very first book, From Trash To Runway. It is an exhaustive and brilliant compendium of how to change our consumption habits and have an eco-friendly and ethical wardrobe. The basic concept of the book is upcycling, one of the best options we have for safeguarding our future. He explained to us what upcycling means, and how it is for everybody, beginners and not because the only thing needed is imagination - and a pinch of personality, we would add!

From Trash To Runway is your first book, and a book is always a great achievement for any professional. You usually work on the digital space: where did you get the idea of a book and how is it to translate your digital-persona on a more traditional medium?

The whole idea developed during the first lockdown: sometimes we need to stay out of the screens to get inspiration! I am aware that this pandemic has brought many negative aspects and has increased the monotony of our daily life. This is why I tried to do something positive, different, not only for me but mainly for the readers.

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We have been forced to spend a lot of time on-screen, all days every day, due to remote work as well.

The book is inscribed in a bigger project, whose aim is not only to raise awareness around the topic of sustainability and fair fashion but also to generate good actions. How does your book give back to the environment with Forest Nation?

Honestly, this is one of the parts I am more proud of. By sponsoring a native tree planting with Forest Nation for each book sold we are not only captioning carbon and creating oxygen, but we are supporting a community in need. By planting these trees in local land, we help preventing soil erosion and, since 70% of the trees are food bearing, each tree is combating the dramatic food insecurity in Haiti. These are not mono-culture tree farms, but rather thoughtful community projects focused around education, sustainable growth and local engagement.

What we truly like about your book is the ambition to make everybody an active player in the sustainable pivoting of the fashion industry. You often joke on your non-ability to cut the paper-pattern, to sew etc.

Is up-cycling for everybody?

Of course it is for everyone! That’s the way we used to do things years ago, but everything has changed, throughout the years, mainly due to the new model of consumption.

Today, it seems that consumption it’s the only way.

Hopefully, DIY is starting to (re)gain in popularity.

A lot of people think that they cannot do their own clothes because they don’t know how to do it, practically speaking, so it was in my power to tell them. I still don’t know how to do real patterning neither I knew how to sew when I started my journey. Now I do it not because I need to, but because I want to. Nevertheless, I have my seamstress in Barcelona for the most complicated and intricate designs.

LATEST interview words Federica words GiuliaCaiazzo Greco I consider that both my blog and my book are important stimuli to move towards a circular, sustainable and at the same time social economy. Why are we going to shop at cheap clothing stores like Zara or H&M when we can make our own clothes with the seamstress in our neighborhood?

Can you explain to us what is the difference between upcycling and recycling, and what are the additional advantages of the former?

Upcycling is when we reuse discarded objects or materials (which do not serve their original purpose anymore) to create a new element, with an updated value compared to the original.

Recycling, on the other hand, collects the objects that can be recycled and transforms them through a recycling process (most of the time using chemicals), that needs energy consumption, water usage, and maybe the emission of harmful gases.

The reason why upcycling is more advantageous is because we are able to save resources from the recycling processes.

Also, we are able to customize, personalize and add value to the items we create.

In upcycling there are no (many) limits: the important thing is to stay open-minded, use quality materials and know how to take care of them. That is not only applicable to the items we have in our wardrobe, but also our house. I am currently doing one of my pieces out of woven onion netting (those red bags where the onions are transported).

When did you first start to resonate on the huge amount of waste of the fashion industry?

I started several years ago, when I was doing an MBA focused on sustainability and ICT. At that moment I extrapolated the concept of sustainability and adapted it to everything I knew and loved: hospitality and fashion. After reading several books and watching a few documentaries, I started to question myself about my own buying habits and behaviour. Seeing the impacts of the socioeconomic and environmental atrocities practiced by certain fashion companies made me decide to join the sustainable fashion movement. My support consists in creating awareness around the lack of sustainability in the industry and by implicating myself at a personal level through my life choices.

Your book cites several international brands committed to sustainability. How important is to create a network and collaborate towards common goals?

I don't think it's important, rather essential. The more the community and alliances expand, the more the message you want to send becomes universal. I have met a lot of wonderful people on my journey in the industry that thinks the same way I do. This is the reason why I work in the Global Sustainable Fashion Week, to increase the collective awareness and work together towards a more sustainable future in the fashion Industry.

LATEST interview

Dan

Pontarlier

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Do you think technology and scientific research can help us in achieving such goals?

Absolutely, research is already having an outstanding impact. We already have materials such as Tencel, which requires much less resources than cotton to create a shirt; Mycelium leather is one of the best things that happened this last year and for me is the future. I also can’t wait to work with Seaqual, which is yarn made from recycled ocean plastic waste. Also, mentioning Digital fashion along with AR, it could decrease consumption as people would be able to have a virtual wardrobe to wear for digital events, instead of buying new clothes.

Wouldn’t that be cool?

Apart from fashion, how do you apply sustainable practices in your daily life? And what would be your advice for people wishing to live a greener life?

Besides my work in sustainability for the Hospitality industry (I am co-founder of the European Sustainable Hospitality Club) I try to improve my footprint in my personal life too: I do my own compost in the backyard, DIY projects with old furniture, I use trains instead of planes to travel in Europe whenever it’s possible.

Of course you cannot force people, because it has to be something natural and spontaneous. But I would like everyone to try to understand and experience the benefits of a more sustainable life for themselves.

And day after day, more people are embracing sustainability one way or another.

Carl Hansen & Son RF1903 Sideways Sofa €6,241.32 - nest.co.uk

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Sustainability passes through the value chain of the fashion industry as well.

The value chain is formed by all the productive steps of the clothes and accessories we wear but, unfortunately, in the last decades we have lost interest in it, also because of globalization which has dispersed these aforementioned steps all over the world.

Let us make a simple example: the Merino wool is usually produced by sheep in Australia, where it is sourced, cleaned and priced. It is then shipped in the Souther East Asia (between China, Bangladesh and India), where it is transformed into threads and cloths. After that it is sent to factories in other parts of the world, where it is sewed to create garments. Garments are then finished (with labels and buttons and so on) in other factories and they finally finish their journey on the shelves of stores, more or less one year after the raw wool has been fleeced. It is an extremely long journey, both figuratively and not, but very few people know it.

It is important to shed light on the production chain since it is the only way to resonate on the impact of the fashion industry on the planet and people as well.

This is the reason why The Factory is such a gem, because, in a time greatly focused on marketing and image, it reminds us that clothes are products just like others, made by ideas and hands that work, God knows where and in which conditions, to constantly feed the fashion machine.

The Factory Photography Petra Vaessen Style Richard Schreefel Model Marlijn Hoek c/o 100% Management Hair Style, Makeup Danine Zwets for Ellis Faas and Kevin Murphy

Shirt, pants & coat all YOOST Shoes WANDLER

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Shirt, pants SJAAK HULLEKES Opposite: Body, Shirt GAUGE81

Full Look YOOST Opposite: Shirt, pants, trenchcoat ARMA

Mini-dress ELZINGA Opposite: Coat , Bag KASSL EDITIONS Shoes REPETTO

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Suit ATELIER LEONLEON Shoes WANDLER Opposite: Oversized Mini-dress CALVIN KLEIN

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Suit STRELLSON Bag WANDLER Opposite: Coat SJAAK HULLEKES

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Top, Skirt ERIK FRENKEN Collar LA COLLERETTE

ESME Tie Neck Shirt made in recycled polyester with puff sleeve in Tiled Protea Bud PHOEBE-GRACE.CO.UK

Beauty Products For Spring Summer?

The Answer is

Fruit Power Photography Weronika Kosińska Model Ola c/o X Management Hair Style, Makeup Kasia Olkowska using Iossi, Glossier, Miya Cosmetics, Kosas12

words Giulia Greco

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You may already know that nature is fundamental, to us. This is also and, above all, true for beauty and skincare: creams, serums, tonics but also foundations, lipsticks and mascara are the foods of our skin, which absorbs the products and nourishes itself every day. Why not start from the table and think of our skin as a part of us to be satiated? Like every good diet, it is better to prefer natural and nutritious products, and this is where fruit comes into play!

Fruit is not only an ally of our alimentary regime but, precisely because of its characteristics, it can become the best friend of the skin too. It is rich in water but also in vitamins, minerals, fibre and antioxidants. Each fruit has its peculiarities and, if correctly implemented in the beauty routine, it can act on our weak points giving great results. Many cosmetic companies are using more and more fruit in their recipes, and this is good for both us and the environment.

This spring, we will take from fruit not only the precious nutrients but also the colour palette.

While the skin remains as natural as possible, intense colours light up our eyes. It is the charm of the crazy and fun 80s, but it is also the effect of teenage drama like Euphoria, which has made makeup a means of expression like no others, made to amaze and have fun rather than to improve one's appearance. In addition to pastel-coloured eyeliner, you can play with eye shadows and create intense colour blocks on the lids. Nail polishes and lipsticks become richer too.

When it comes to hair, on the other hand, we saw many different hairstyles on the catwalks and perhaps, once again, the only real trend is naturalness. Leave your hair free to be. However, if you want to try a catchy look, then go give yourself a modelling gel. You can apply it roughly on the hair and create the legendary "wet effect": brush the roots backwards, stop them with the gel and leave the lengths soft and undefined.

Otherwise, you can experiment with design hairstyles, creating super-refined looks (with waves and lines) to stop with gel and hairspray, but also with some nice hairpins.

LATEST BEAUTY l mondo della cosmetica è ultimamente protagonista di un cambiamento molto lontano dall’essere

Foto by Daria Shevtsova

Smart Mirror - HiMirror

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LATEST BEAUTY

Cocokind: shining skin thanks to oil Do you know what the properties of watermelon are? It is made up of 96% water, and is, therefore, ultra-moisturizing; it contains vitamins A, B, C and E, and can give elasticity and tone to the skin, nourishing, plumping and relaxing it (thanks to linoleic acid).

Apart from that, it also acts on the pores, drastically minimizing them.

Cocokind's Watermelon Hemp Oil is made with watermelon seeds and hemp oil, along with bergamot, rosemary, orange and eucalyptus oil.

They are cold-pressed ingredients, and their combined action gives life to an incredible hydration product. You can use it on the face and body, but also the hair and beard. Your skin will thank you and the scent is perfect for the summer season! ​

Watermelon Hemp Oil - courtesy Cocokind

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LATEST BEAUTY

Glow Recipe: fruit-based beauty routine If you want to know more about fruit and its use in skincare, you should definitely visit the Glow Recipe's website. The brand produces natural, cruelty-free skincare with special regard for the environment in packaging and shipping methods.

The Avocado Melt Retinol Eye Sleeping Mask should be applied in the evening and during the night it works wonders for your tired eye area. The main ingredient is avocado, which is rich in vitamins E and C: around the eyes, it helps to reduce the signs of aging, usually accelerated by the damaging effect of the pollution in which we are immersed in the city. Together with the avocado, the mask is also made with the seeds of the coffee plant, naturally rich in caffeine and thus excellent for revitalizing the skin.

Avocado Melt Retinol Eye Sleeping Mask - courtesy of cherie.com

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LATEST BEAUTY

Superfoods banana + coconut hair pack - courtesy of briogeohair.com

Briogeo: superfood for hair They look like rich and delicious smoothies, don't they? But they are a shampoo and conditioner from the Briogeo Superfoods line, suitable for all types of scalp but especially for brittle hair - a very common condition during summer. But let's go in order. The Briogeo's shampoo and conditioner are made with a powerful mix of tropical fruits (banana, coconut, acai and mango) that are incredibly creamy and nutrient. Banana, in particular, is rich in potassium and antioxidant, while coconut has a good amount of fatty acids, which balance the formula and give extra hydration.

On top of that, these fruits have a very high percentage of vitamins, that make hairs shiny, strong and healthy.

Tropical fruits is lovely to see, yummy to eat and, now we know it, perfect for our hair too. Let your scalp absorb the colours of these super-foods and enjoy your boost of energy!

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LATEST BEAUTY

LOccitane: lips to eat The Delicious Lip Scrub from L'Occitane en Provence looks damn amazing. A single glance is enough to understand that it is creamy and sweet, so much so that you want to eat it. The raspberry scent is a plus not to be underestimated, but it doesn't make it edible though. It is indeed a gentle exfoliant for the lips, to be applied a couple of times a week or whenever you need it. It gently eliminates dead cells, but it is also rich in fruit with a high concentration of vitamins. In particular, vitamin E (once again) is the most interesting one: it comes from the mix of grapefruit oil, carrot oil and pomegranate oil and protects against free radicals.

L'Occitane offers many fruit-based products, all equally delicious and conscientious. The attention paid to the ingredients is great!

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L'Occitane lip scrub and delicious all-purpose balm

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LATEST BEAUTY

The Organic Skin Co. - super clean makeup We just mentioned super coloured eye makeup and, since we can't wait to try it - this summer, with amazing tanned skin - we have been looking for the more sustainable alternative. The Organic Skin Co. was born in New Zealand and brings a simple and ingenious idea to the beauty world to reduce the impact of makeup on the environment. Its "refillable palettes" allow you to always have new eyeshades, without ever having to throw away the packaging, which can be simply refilled.

And there is more. Their beauty products are made with pure extracts of herbs, flowers and fruits, which are treated with a special extraction technique (they call it super-critical extraction) that uses no chemicals and keeps plant nutrients intact. Wonderful, isn't it?

​

The Organic Skin Co. Refillable palette

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Photography Alex Van Der Steen Style Alex Van Der Steen Hair Style, Makeup Anastasia Andreeva Model Cestmir c/o Matt Models Amsterdam All Jewelry by Buddha to Buddha Thanks To Allard Studios / Claire Granlund

be YOURSELF What's more beautiful than being young, courageous, regardless of the others' judgment? In our "ideal world" there are no talking animals, but people who no longer know what it means to judge, abuse, make fun of, point the finger to what is different, being afraid of what is different.

A man with lipstick? A tattooed woman who is also well integrated into the business world? A different religion? A different sexuality?

Nothing would any longer be seen as something negative in the ideal world.

If this world exists it will only be thanks to the brave.

So long live the youth and the extravagance.

Long live artists and sensitive men, long live strong women who are not afraid to make their life choices.

It's just about taking a step forward.

We can change the future, just decide not to be pigeonholed in a precise definition anymore.

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Suit, shirt, tie BOSS | Jacket SAMSOE & SAMSOE | Socks NIKE | Boots BALMAIN

Sweater ELLESSE | Opposite: Knitted pullover WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK

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Leather sweat DOLCE & GABBANA | Shorts GUCCI | Socks ADIDAS | Boots BALMAIN Opposite: T-shirt BURBERRY | Jacket BLUEBLOOD | Pants PRADA | Socks NIKE | Loafers LANVIN

Tracksuit CALVIN KLEIN | Socks NIKE | Loafers LANVIN

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Shirt, jacket JOUEZ LES ENFANTS | Opposite: Hat BOSS

beauty and romanticism of traditions will never go out of style: in conversation with

Lavanya Coodly Do what you love and you won't work a single day of your life, Confucius said, and this remains truth even today. We would like to add: do what you love and not only you will not only produce something beautiful (anything filled with love is beautiful) but also be naturally involved in every step of the production, and lead to very high quality result.

It may sound simplistic, but the simple act of loving clothes - their production, the fabrics, skills and creativity involved - can provide a solution to the sustainability issues.

We have it clear in our mind thanks to a chat we had with Lavanya Coodly, a New York based brand that produces both haute couture and ready-to-wear. Each garment is born out of a strong attention to materials, decorations and design, and it is the product of highly skilled craftsmanship. The production chain is controlled from start to finish, to ensure support and dignity to workers, and low-impact practices on the environment.

The attention to details is palpable and garments are loved, for real. Just like our own children, Lavanya Coodly jokes. But we know that she means it, also because we share the same feeling in front of a beautifully made garment. interview by Giulia Greco - up to page 142

Creative Direction Lavanya Coodly Photography Andrew T. White Style Sam Bates Models Sarah Gullixson, Nic Wright, Danielle And Kátia Selinger Hair Style, Makeup Mirna Jose Assistant Oliver Hunt

LATEST INTERVISTE

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Lavanya Coodly is a rather young brand: you are just getting closer to your 10th anniversary, but you already have a huge following.

What do women find in your creations?

I believe that women find our creations not only beautiful and well-constructed, but easy to wear and timeless. They are good investment pieces.

You offer tailored and customized pieces, and this is one strength of Lavanya Coodly. In your opinion, are customers growing more attracted by unique, amazingly-made garments?

Absolutely! This is something we have observed as well: women love the idea of having unique garments, made especially for them. It is great to know that you won’t find any duplicate elsewhere.

Can fashion help us re-birth after such a difficult period?

The lockdown and the overall difficult period have given us time to reflect on our consumption and purchasing habits. Fashion is here to stay as it is an important part of our life and an avenue for self-expression in many parts of the world. I would encourage everyone to buy better and more thoughtfully from brands that are manufacturing using sustainable and environmentally-safe measures.

Also, how have you been working during the lockdown? How have you managed to keep your creative flow going?

Interestingly, we have managed to stay creative despite the situation. We design remotely and send sketches via Whatsapp to the factory, where the sketches are transformed into final products. We are super-careful to follow all required guidelines and work has continued non-stop after restrictions were gradually lifted. Luckily, all staff members are healthy and this is great.

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Lavanya Coodly is based in New York, but you have Indian roots. On one side the city that-never-sleep, modern and global by definition.

On the other side the soft romanticism of tradition, an heritage of dreamy landscape, bright colours and fine fabrics.

How do the two go together so well?

The beauty and romanticism of traditions will never go out of style because they make us feel comfortable and secure. It is a great feeling to hold on to and even if we work in a high-powered environment in large metropolises, it is always reassuring to embrace something enduring and that is going to stay. Having said that, some designs must reflect the current mindset. It is also important to create keeping in view current technologies and the requirements of contemporary society.

Do you work with Indian artisans or do you purchase fabrics from the region?

Yes, we believe in supporting hand-craftsmanship as much as possible.

All embroidery is handexecuted by skilled artisans in the studio. Hand printing is done in a town nearby although the designs are own creations.

Fabrics are purchased from hand weavers whenever possible.

Sweaters are hand-knitted by women living and working in the Himalayan mountain region.

What is your favourite haute couture piece? (mine is the Lorraine Gown) So happy you like the Lorraine gown. Personally, it is very difficult to choose one gown because they are like our children. However, if I am forced to make a selection, I would choose the Freya dress for its soft romantic aesthetic.

What’s the inspiration for the spring-summer 2021?

We have focused on the playful side of our personality when designing for Spring Summer 2021. The long lockdown period and all its restrictions brought out the need for escapism and the desire to run free on a beautiful beach.

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AMARA.COM

Urban Trashy tailored Cowgirl Last year designers and creatives went along the pandemic creating comfy styles easy to wear at home.

Sweatshirts and large, stretchy garments are still in trend but a new taste is hitting the fashion market: extravaganza.

This issue is meant (among other things) to encourage you to experiment, freely expressing yourself and, why not, your kitsch-y part. This editorial invites all of us to let go off our constrains, joyfully playing with our garments with no regrets.

If you wear it right, the cowboy style is great for this type of experimentation. Match it with shocking pink, floral patterns and also piton leather print. It is an excessive aesthetic we like a lot, and we cannot wait to replicate!

Photography Paul Whitfield Fashion Editor, Style Laura Martin Model Karina Kozionova c/o Premier Model Management Makeup Jolanda Coetzer Hair Style Valerie Benavides using Sam McKnight Style Assistance Daniel Gray Post Production Timea Buknciz

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Black Leather Over-the-knee boots Isabel Marant

Floral cotton Jacquard trench (worn as dress), neck tie, gloves, crystal pearl swing earrings all Erdem | Black fedora hat Maison Michel @Matches

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Shirt Dress Temperley | High waisted knickers NU | Belt Maje | Bronzed brown faux snake leather knee length boots Terry De Haviland

Grey and Black loafers Rosamund Muir

Pink Three Piece Suit, jacket, waistcoat, trouser House of Holland | Orange leather gloves Handsome Stockholm

Red snakeskin leather jacket, trouser Esau Yori | Brown Croc Effect leather boots Terry De Havilland

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Black high neck vegan leather Skiim | Black balloon sleeve shoulder Length gloves B Akerlund X Handsome Stockholm | Gold Hoops Edge of Ember

Opposite: Dark Claret Boiler Suit, Dark Pink leather calf length boots Roksanda | Pink latex Rhinestone detail Cowboy Hat Elisa Poppy

White Linen Blazer Joseph | Red Leather shorts Esau Yori | Chain link necklace Celeste Starre | Zebra cowboy boots De La Vali

Opposite: Red short sleeve polo Maje | White roll neck body worn underneath Wolford | Leopard Latex Cycling Shorts Elisa Poppy | White tights Falke | White Cowboy boots Toga Pulla | Rose gold and diamond arrow hoop earings Melis Goral | Chain, rings Celeste Starre

White Vegan Leather Shirt Skiim | Gold quilted high waisted trousers NU | White Cowboy Boots rhinestone detail De La Vali

Dress Y/Project | Shoes Aqua Opposite: Turtleneck Simon Miller | Skirt Maison Margiela | Shoes Aqua

elastic, ready for any situation and versatile in our daily challenges story by Silvia Stefanini | photography Stefano Lanza words Ludovica Mucci

S/S 2021

accessories One year after the start of the pandemic it seems absurd to return to consider the possibility of going out, but fashion -seems clearer than ever today- never stops. So whether we can leave home or not we still have some wonderful creations to admire, to imagine us wearing them in those more glamorous and exclusive situations that, perhaps, will have to wait a little longer.

In full lockdown, all fashion houses have produced interesting collections, everyone aimed at meeting different needs emerged during quarantine. There were those who proposed an adventure fashion, in which escapism was the fundamental feature and clothes reflected this desire through vibrant colors, exaggerated styles and daring combinations.

On the other hand, to counterbalance this, there was a more restrained, more sober fashion which fully manifested the sad and nervous state of mind that perhaps we all shared a little during quarantine. Here we find simple shapes, soft colors, elongated and functional silhouettes to the post-pandemic life, one in which practicality and simplicity will perhaps be on the agenda.

Opposite: Swimsuit MAX MARA | Sandals SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | Bags ERMANNO SCERVINO p.158

LATEST aCCESSORIes The same goes for accessories. Cleaner and lean shapes alternate with more aggressive and edgy elements, which define the silhouettes maybe more than clothes do and accentuate the irreverent and out of the norm character.

This role of disturbing, unexpected but really desired guest is mainly covered by jewelry. For the spring/summer 2021 we could also go out in comfortable jumpsuits and soft floral dresses -nothing that avant-garde, as would surely think Miranda from The Devil Wears Prada- but the jewels will be at our disposal to upset the normality with a little healthy rebellion, why not, even if worn on pajamas.

This is the case of the colorful neon pieces, of which Versace remains the pioneer; next to golden chains, the neon pieces would be able to attract attention from miles away, even with the mask still on.

Along with neon the chains return, now a must-have among the accessories. For this and next season the chains conquer much more scene than they had before, thanks to their maxi proportions. Among others, Victoria Beckham, Hermès ,Vivienne Westwood and Jacquemus propose interesting interpretations of the trend.

Inevitable in every season, the pearls. For the spring/summer 2021 they increase in volume and dynamism, damping a little the romantic effect of which they usually make manifest. This time, in fact, they come to be almost fused with the clothes and the body themselves. Simone Rocha is undoubtedly the undisputed queen of pearls; in her SS21 collection she also made a handbag out of them.

A super trend this year is definitely the single earring. The newfound use also in men’s fashion is due to Harry Styles, who in 2019 showed off a teardrop on the occasion of the Met Gala. The single earring is one of the clearest examples of cyclical fashion. Indeed, as much as we can undoubtedly declare ourselves fans of the Harry Styles aesthetic, the single earring is not something that he first brought into fashion, nor Alessandro Michele. The fluid and genderless style we are witnessing today is a reminiscence of Renaissance fashion, for which the earring was by no means a weird trend, on the contrary, it represented a musthave of the male dress code. Today, this little accessory does not belong to a single language, on the contrary, it ranges from men’s and women’s fashion, definitively erasing the line that previously divided them.

Examples are the proposals of Acne Studios and N.21.

Here: CHARLOTTE CHESNAIS Turtle Chain Bracelet | SIMONE ROCHA Pearl Egg Bag | STORROW 14K Gold Pearl & Lapis Katherine Charm at modaoperandi.com Opposite: Bags DSQUARED2 | Sandals DSQUARED2 | Top, Bralette LA PERLA

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LATEST aCCESSORIes

If the jewels ensure a statement on any type of outfit we have in mind, many bags of spring/summer 2021 return to the essential, celebrating classic shapes, simple floral patterns and comfort.

Ermanno Scervino offers hand-embroidered clutches, where leather and wool blend in an interesting combination of fabrics and their delicacy heralds the quiet summer evenings.The same technique is also used for baskets, inevitable in the summer, reminiscent of the iconic 1960s movies with Jane Birkin. The same effect emerges from Moncler handbags, where floral patterns make them versatile for any daytime event. For a relaxed Parisian look, Jacquemus raffia bags with leather handles are the best option.

For a bohemian atmosphere, the bags by TOD’S are among the options more in. The fringes along the accessory, combined with the highest quality of leather, are ideal for a hot day in Savana Chic style.

For an even more simple and minimal solution, the proposals of Stella Mccartney, Ferragamo and Jacquemus are ideal. On the other hand in some situations, the smooth and bright skin of the bags is the only statement you need.

Looking for an edgier touch? The Max Mara clutch in leather and crocodile print in blue or cowhide is the most appropriate choice.

If you want to opt for the most irreverent alternative, there's the Dsquared2 handbag in animalier print, suitable for unexpected evenings and nights out. On the opposite side, for different scenarios in which you’re just looking for comfort and practicality, the Moncler backpack is perfect for any type of outdoor activities in the sun.

Here: CULT GAIA Oversized Fringed Raffia Clutch | BALENCIAGA Leather Shoulder Bag | BOTTEGA VENETA Chain Leather Bag at modaoperandi.com Opposite, From above: Shopper TOD'S | Baguette TOD'S | Sweater SPORTMAX | Pastry Bag WEEKEND

LATEST aCCESSORIes

Shoes, perhaps like jewels, illuminate the dress with peaks of euphoria, or on the contrary, accompany them on the lines of fluidity and classic softness.

Spring/summer 2021 will be just like we want to live it, certainly with no limit in the house or in the garden, so why not experiment a little with these accessories?

The trend shoes in spring/summer 2021 seem to prefer comfort and functionality. Here comes the reason for the essential on the excess. Of course with what due exception, just to have some fun.

Starting from the latter, we must necessarily mention the maxi boot of Norrgatan with pink quartz crystals and the same version reinterpreted as a sandal. For an even more extreme touch, there are Givenchy pumps punk allure with a horn-shaped heel.

For a daytime look with an extra edgy touch, the platforms by Stella McCartney and Gabriela Hearst are the best; their neutral tones adapt to any type of outfit or need.

For a more minimal look, there is always the option of Jil Sander and Max Mara; the two brands offer leather ballet flats with a bow shape on the heel and the classic low espadrilles in nappa.

With a touch of lively color Prada is definitely a must, especially its low sandals in blue or pink straight from the 90s aesthetic. And if you want a more irreverent touch there are always the black Ferragamo sandals with pearls to embellish the shapes.

Chanel instead privileges comfort, with black sandals, perfect for the effortless Parisian look.

Essential are also the ballerina shoes proposed by Celine and Jil Sander in yellow mustard and gold, for a summer look in line with the color palette of a maritime landscape.

Here: STELLA MCCARTNEY Vegan Nappa Chain Platform Sandals | BOTTEGA VENETA Chain-Detailed Leather Sandals at modaoperandi.com | JIL SANDER leather ballerinas Opposite:Boot, sandals PARIS TEXAS | Bag MAX MARA | Belt JACQUEMUS | Ballet Flats JIL SANDER

From above: Bag MONCLER | Clutch Bag ERMANNO SCERVINO | Ballet Flats CELINE | Bag STELLA MCCARTNEY Opposite: Bag, Belt SALVATORE FERRAGAMO | Sandals TOD’S | Espadrilles MAX MARA

LATEST aCCESSORIes If there is one thing we have learned in this dark time, it is knowing how to be flexible, ready for any situation and versatile in our daily challenges. The spring/summer 2021 accessories express the discovery of our chameleon nature, and the courage to know how to change, with peaks of color and unexpected shapes, especially when boredom and nostalgia of past times come knocking at our door.

The accessories become increasingly fluid, ready to bring balance or chaos depending on the next whim, stimulating creativity and still fueling the desire to bring to light the experiments tried at home.

Let’s get ready for when that day comes!

Here: Ph Andew Vowles, Courtesy of Victoria Beckham SS'21 | Ph Anthony Seklaoui & Daniel Roseberry, Courtesy of Schiaparelli SS'21 Opposite: Backpack MONCLER | Boots GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI

Photography Anthony Arquier Fashion Editor, Style Tiphaine Menon Model Jeanne Zheng at Premium Models Hair Style, Makeup Camille Arnaud c/o Airport Agency

BLACKOUT Our withering is changing.

We have new lungs and the sour mercy of our discotheque is no longer earth shattering. New bells that'll ring, ping the sonar of thus far, and right now. Our iguana is bothered but our cactus is out of practice, so we malice the wrong people.

Brown scotch botched in the locust plume of our nothingness.

All in the night jar. We palm the coin of many realms but snooker the genie into 4 wishes for kicks.

We split the bucket list and enlist strange agents to embroil the liturgy of our silence with the umbrage of our slumbers. Where rumbles the blunder of our measured steps as we stumble through the rapscallions of our private thoughts in the after hours.

We empower our oblivion by kissing on the mouth.

This is how we keepsake sacred, but escape velocity by way of quiet... this loud.

- The Night Jar by Third Eye Candy

Top Lanvin | Earrings Goossens | Bag By far

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Total look Veronique Leroy | Earrings Goossens

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Total look Maison Margiela

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Top Jean Paul Gaultier

Dress Mugler | Opposite: Hat, Veil & Shirt Victoria/Tomas

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Jacket Nicolas Lecourt Mansion | Shirt Micu Pants Marine Serre | Necklace Justine Clenquet

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Combinable and Sustainable: in conversation with

ELBA

concept

words Ludovica Mucci

LATEST INTERVIEW

The work of Elba Concept is pure vanguard.

Created by the creative communion of Dina Ding and Thierry Baschmakoff, Elba Concept bags are customizable products made by the combination of several pieces put together.

With Elba Concept, using such a contemporary and unforgettable accessory becomes even more fun.

It soon came to them that the shape taken by the materials implied looked like an elephant.

The name Elba Concept comes from the never-ending inspiration that this animal brings. Nowadays, elephants are afflicted by several dangers that put their species at risk, and that’s exactly what this brand is trying to prevent, after all, from the will to protect the animals, comes the pledge of a more sustainable sourcing as well. Elba concept is distinguished by the use of carefully sourced and ethical materials thanks to innovative technological solutions which we spoke about together in this interview.

Elba Concept presented us a product that changes according to the difference necessities of modern life, an on-going transformation from the inside out. p.183

What is the philosophy behind Elba Concept?

What does the name come from?

Elba was born during a series of discussions between Dina Ding and Thierry de Baschmakoff, two designers who had known each other for several years and whose common dream was to create a new concept in modular design thus giving birth to a new generation of leather goods.

During the creative process while researching the most appropriate shapes to embody the concept it become apparent, with some imagination, that the components of the bag when flat and unassembled on a table looked mysteriously like the head of an elephant. This representation appeared very naturally and became the logo of the brand.

The brand’s name (Elephant Bag Concept abbreviated to Elba Concept) is also derived from this auspicious coincidence. And, as ELBA Concept has borrowed its name from the elephant, the brand considers the defense of these endangered species as a duty.

The peculiarity of this bag resides in its customizable shapes according to the consumers’ needs and space. How did you come up with this innovative design?

Our concept aims to facilitate the work of assembling a handbag: reduce handling, facilitate manual manufacturing operations and allow the use of different materials to expand the product range.

Working in two dimensions offers more freedom in terms of customization, using less storage volume and therefore having a favorable environmental impact during transportation since packing is highly efficient.

It opens the possibility to create using innovative materials or those intended to be recycled.

Portrait of designers Dina Ding & Thierry de Baschmakoff

courtesy of MAREN | ©Anna Duschl Fotografie

What are the materials you use the most? How can you achieve material-sourcing in an ethical and sustainable way?

We usually use leather sourced from top quality reliable suppliers. The simple point is that with minimum additions our bag can change shape and colors (in multiple combinations) which is a form of modular recycling while maintaining the excitement of the new.

The selection of materials and the assembling process guarantees a very durable product (while allowing the possibility to make your bag continually evolve).

We can also manufacture very small series that will allow use of short-lived materials or which were originally intended for recycling.

digital technology and marketing methods. There has been a complete change from the tools used by previous generations of entrepreneurs and the today’s reality is changing rapidly so constant attention is required with the capacity to adapt and integrate new technology and concept.

Sustainability is key but it has many facets so what is important is to define its relationship to your particular brand and product.

What are the challenges of promoting this product in a world where the new seems to be still wanted, especially amongst customers more loyal to luxury brands offering new collections each season?

Do you have any advice for young entrepreneurs on how to start sustainably sourcing for their brand?

The concept which gives rise to Elba is that the world requires a new type of product that with minimal waste and space can adapt to the varying needs of humans in the different moments, places and situations of an individual’s life.

Today’s fast-moving world with its explosion of data and information requires a very clear grasp of

The resulting product has limitless combinations thus integrating multiple needs into one solution. p.185

It can be transported flat and with many components (with the resulting myriad of possible combinations of shape, color, materials).

These endless possibilities at one’s hand are vastly superior, and more adapted to the realities of modern life than the endless collections of luxury products displayed each season by the well-known brands (which just accumulate in closets).

Elba is alive and changes with its user.

Elba is the modern incarnation of affordable luxury redefined by what is ethically compatible with using resources in today’s world. It is designed to be a digital brand and our challenge is to get people who really care to know our unique offering.

Have you ever thought to expand your product category to dresses as well?

Thinking about assembling your own piece

of design seems intriguing!

That’s a good question, we were even thinking about how also use a bag as a dress, since the component parts of our bag can be also used separately on our bodies. It’s an exciting idea we are trying to incorporate into future collections Do you have any upcoming projects for the future you would like to share with us?

Revolution in a bag is not just one product or model!

Our next collection Mini ELBA will be launched shortly, will use more exotic material and colors, prints etc.

We are truly excited to design each new collection to include a wide variety of novel options, designs and actually to give a new experience to our clients, always remaining true to the spirit of our founding concept.

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Linear

SHAPES

Warm season is made of light not-so-much layered outfits.

A dress is often all you need to be ready to go out and, as a consequence, you have to play with fabrics and cuts in order to have some fun.

Here you have some well selected ideas to get you inspired for the upcoming period.

Mini or midi dresses in stretch fabric, a light and tight coat, or a maxi gown for the evening, shiny and precious in volumes.

The common denominator is sensuality, at the very center of a general re-discovery we are extremely happy about.

Photography Norbert Bäres Style Sabine Diekow Model Luisa Hartema c/o Munich Models Hair Style Makeup Silke Achenbach Using Armani Beauty, Charlotte Tilbury, MAC Cosmetics, Anastasia Beverly Hills, Dior, Hair products Oribe

Silk Blouse Maison Margiela Briefs BriefsWolford Wolfort Beret Utowo Boots Gianvito Rossi at Vestiaire Collective

Coat Max Mara Bra Top ERES Boots Mango Ring CADA Opposite: Dress Alberta Ferretti Earrings Devon Leigh Tiger eye Stone Ring CADA

Dress Victoria Beckham Cap Icono Leather Ankle Boots Mango Bag Bottega Veneta Earrings Swarowski Opposite: Top Maison Margiela Briefs Wolford Bralet Baserange

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Body Alaïa Hat Karl Lagerfeld Golden Chain Necklace CADA Boots Mango Opposite: Dress Balmain Glasses Fendi Gloves Loro Piana Leather Boots Mango

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A conscious love: in conversation with

jewellery

courtesy of MAREN | ©Anna Duschl Fotografie

words Ludovica Mucci

LATEST INTERVIEW

courtesy of MAREN | ©Anna Duschl Fotografie

When sustainability becomes a life choice, something to cultivate and to nourish outside of the conventional market trends (just as much we would do with our own personal space, identity and aspirations), Maren Jewellery can be one of the stunning results of this act of love. Indeed, what Helge Maren Hauptmann has achieved by following her heart and merging into one both her sustainability goals and her passions, can be summed up just by looking at one of her wonderful creations.

Maren Jewellery represents all of this and more, precious meanings safely guarded inside the perfect shape of a ring or in the sweet curve of a necklace.

When asked about when she decided to make sustainability one of the pillar points of her brand, she said she didn’t want to split her personality in two anymore; indeed, the secret behind any successful story lies in the strength to keep everything steady in one place, to include and not to exclude one thing of our story or a passion, but rather to fill everything we carry with us in a joyful mix of purpose and passion. That’s what she did with Maren Jewellery and what she keeps doing with her collections.

We talked about this and much more, also considering the enormous value of the past and tradition when it comes to craftmanship, design and inspiration.

What really strikes about a piece of jewellery is its legacy, but what’s even more interesting is the story you will write wearing it.

Founder and designer of Maren Jewellery told us what is like to produce such small but substantial objects and bring to life amazing stories open-heartedly. p.197

What’s the story behind Maren Jewellery?

Where does the name come from?

Maren Jewellery is my way of finally following my heart. For many years I have been personally involved with vegan lifestyle, sustainability but also luxury jewellery and I have always wondered how to combine it all. Until I just started doing it. Maren, that's me. It seemed only right to me to use my name, as this project combines so much of me, of my interests and passions.

How did your interest in jewels and your brilliant career start?

I have always been fascinated by jewellery. By the aura they gives people. From the self-confidence that they transport. At some point I started making my own jewellery and there it all began for me. I then did some internships with goldsmiths and finally studied jewellery design in Pforzheim, Germany. After that I was employed by some exciting and big jewellery companies, last as Head of Design.

How and when did you decide it was the time for more sustainability in the jewellery industry?

For me there's this point where one's interest, one's passion, becomes so strong that everything, every aspect of one’s life is touched by it. That's how it was with me and sustainability. I no longer wanted to split myself into a private person and a professional person. I wanted to merge it all - that's when the decision for Maren Jewellery was virtually already made.

What stands for jewellery is not only something exclusively material; it can also stand by different meanings and memories than can last a lifetime, just as much as a sustainable design can do. Do you have any significant memories related to jewellery you own? Do they inspire you in the creation process of your collections?

Absolutely. I always have this image in my mind of how, as a little girl, I saw women wearing all kinds of rings or expressive necklaces. There was something emanating from them. An almost magical fascination. In my imagination there is hardly a line anymore between what makes the person unique, and the jewellery they choose to express just that.

For my ReMind collection, I was also very

courtesy of MAREN | ©Anna Duschl Fotografie

courtesy of MAREN | ©Anna Duschl Fotografie

specifically inspired by a piece of jewellery from my grandma, who was and still is such a fascinating woman to me. I think jewellery is so very well suited to give shape to memories. You can see that, for example, when we get married we exchange rings. Jewellery and memories, jewellery and feelings - that's inseparable for me.

Where do you take inspiration from the most?

Inspiration for me is something that arises, not so much something that I take. Ideas have their origin mainly when I'm in nature, when everything becomes very quiet and I perceive that I am a human being who depends on nature and is also part of it. I captured this feeling in my Wilderness collection. Besides nature, I am also inspired by vintage clothes/ jewellery and floral designs that give to people a timeless idea. I also always find it easier to design when I am oriented towards timelessness instead of chasing trends.

To know that what I create will always have value -

that's what interests me. When I reflect on that, the ideas come naturally.

What are, according to you, the steps a young entrepreneur has to make in order to start their own sustainable design project or brand?

For me personally, the ten years I’ve spent in the jewellery industry before starting my own business are invaluable. Without the craftsmanship I acquired during those years, I certainly couldn't design the jewellery that make Maren Jewellery what is today.

Obviously you don't have to have ten years of experience, but I think you should know your craft, be confident that you have the skills to make exactly the jewellery you want to make.

Otherwise, of course, you should be clear about what it is: the jewellery you want to make. What is your own distinctive style, your unique voice?

And then: just start. If you've carried the desire around long enough, just get started! p.199

History, tradition and culture are important when conceiving new designs. How much of the past can be found in your innovative designs?

Without the past there is no future. As long as there have been people, there has been jewellery. And when you look at the evolution of jewellery design, you see them: the patterns that run through the millennia, like delicate veins of gold, patterns that repeat. That's where I start. Not only in terms of my design, but also in terms of my craft.

How does Maren Jewellery work in order to reduce pollution created by harmful gold mining?

Do you partner with some environmental association in the process?

This is a matter of the heart for Maren Jewellery: I only use recycled gold for my jewellery. But I can't and don't want to simply ignore the damages caused by gold mining. That is why I have teamed up with

courtesy of MAREN | ©Anna Duschl Fotografie

the Earthbeat Foundation. An organization that initiates projects to create new job prospects for people who make a living from small scale mining.

In addition, we at Maren Jewellery offset our CO2 emissions by donating to Chooose.

Do you have beautiful stories to share with us about your clients' experience in finding the jewellery design they wanted?

How much of counselling and personal taste is involved when choosing a special ring or a necklace as a gift?

My jewellery pieces are companions of a lifetime.

Therefore, it is important to me that my customers make a well-informed decision about which ring, necklace or bracelet should accompany them for the rest of their lives. I offer personalized consultation and my goal with Maren Jewellery is to give each customer that one piece of jewellery that everyone is looking for, the absolute beloved piece.

My personal favorite story is the Seed of Love letter pendant that a customer bought for his wife as a gift for the birth of their son, showing their child's initial letter.

What is your favorite collection you’ve created so far? Can you give us a hint of a future collection?

There is so much of myself in each of my collections: so many emotions, memories and work.

But my favorite collection is probably the Wilderness Collection, to which I'm giving a little update this spring in the form of some new pieces of jewellery. Nature just doesn't stop giving me new ideas.

What do you think are the challenges nowadays when facing with sustainability issues in fashion?

I think sustainable fashion has to completely reinvent itself at this point. Parameters that apply to fast fashion simply can no longer be applied to sustainable fashion. We have to rethink it all: What can suit us humans as well as the earth? How can we design in a way that won't be out of fashion tomorrow? Which materials should be used, and which should perhaps be left out? And what role should the people who manufacture this fashion play?

These are not entirely new questions. But I think t it is worth thinking about even more. Because the future concerns us all. And I would like to see a beautiful future. Not only when it comes to jewellery, but also in general.

HELGE MAREN | ©Anna Duschl Fotografie

p.201

Photography Shauna Summers & Matthias Leton Style Maya Lu Models Jada Joyce, Laura Schuller, Ann Kuen c/o A-Management Jamela Beyala c/o Iconic Management Makeup Daria Crainiucenco Hair Style Kosuke Ikeuchi Style Assistance Elisabeth Kiko Gaffer Karim Rieg

All Out Minimalism? Yes, but make it stylish!

The pandemic has changed us deeply, it’s true, but we are now more than ever ready to go out and celebrate life, through great outfit and a glimpse of craziness.

Excess is not so much on trend anymore, but a single detail is enough to make every outfit cool and interesting, catchy or festive.

Do you want some examples? Eco fur in acid green, knit tops with audacious neckline, or a crispy see-through plisse blouse. Easy, isn’t it?

Coat Mia Kather Knitwear Anastasia Bogonos Pants Katharina Dubbick Shoes Aeyde

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Full Look Lecavalier Shoes Just Cavalli Opposite: Top Katharina Dubbick Earring Räthel & Wolf

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Top Katharina Dubbick Skirt Meryll Rogge Earring Räthel & Wolf

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Left: Full Look Katharina Dubbick Right: Top Lecavalier Skirt Drome

Top Katharina Dubbick Trousers William Fan Shoes Aeyde Bracelet Räthel & Wolf Opposite: Dress Olivia Ballard Scarf Mia Kather Earring Räthel & Wolf

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SUSTAINABLE

Furniture

High Stool Backrest €1.305 | materdesign.com

LATEST Design

by Marta Forgione up to page 217

Of course, and unfortunately we all know by now, this year has been what it was and apparently we will still have some patience before returning to normal life. As a good fatalist, sometimes I wonder if this all is a cry of nature trying to get rid of us. Basically we have no natural enemies apart from viruses, and the natural course of things teaches us that the balance of life cannot be tilted on one side to infinity time.

But if this vision seems too naive to you, we can simply say that it would be nice to use this moment to re-evaluate our journey on this planet that hosts us, trying to change at least some of our bad habits.

I know, it is a speech that I often make and our readers know it very well, but I appeal to all the people who, by chance, now have this magazine in their hands, perhaps at someone's home or in a shop.

Maybe you too are starting to wonder if our way of life is right, but you don't know how to start a new path and the idea of ​​a "more sustainable" life seems like a titanic (and expensive) undertaking.

Then there is the usual speech of "what changes if I change my habits, the multinationals are the real problem".

Well, that's the wrong reasoning, and we all have done it, but now we absolutely have to get out of it. The change of individuals changes things, believe me. Think about it: I start not buying water in plastic bottles anymore (for example, there are convenient services that bring you glass bottles home and, when you have emptied them, they come to take back the empty bottles and bring you the full ones).

You start doing the same, and when so many people do the same, those who produce plastic water bottles will be forced to re-evaluate the market that has changed.

Ray Series Lamps | materdesign.com

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We've been saying for years that electric cars would never had a market, because the oil business seemed untouchable, now what?

Each car brand is creating its own hybrid car.

It seemed impossible, didn't it?

Now, after this rant (which I hope will be useful for someone), I think that this year has certainly taught us something.

Our Home is becoming the place where we spend the most time. Apparently more and more companies are turning to smart working (finally, we should add) thus reducing heavy rental costs and improving emissions for transport.

Our home is therefore the place to start. The feeling of having improved it, made it more sustainable, will be an incredible reward.

Zero Impact What are we really talking about when we hear the terms sustainable design?

First of all we can talk about materials.

The materials used for the creation of sustainable design products are natural, or made from them. Wood, Bamboo, Fibers such as linen, cotton and hemp are the most used.

For the rest we are talking about upcycling or recycled materials. Recycling leads directly to the most interesting issue linked to eco-sustainable design, namely creativity.

There is nothing more funny and satisfying than seeing an object made from your recycled materials, but if you don't feel so creative you can anyway buy some of them made from others. The world is now (luckily) full of designers who deal with innovation, ethical and eco-sustainable interior products.

Tables Collection, designer Joaquim di Bonaguro for tacchini.it

Adda collection | salvatoriofficial.com p.215

Top

We are in the Italian company Tacchini, leader in the sustainable development of design and industry. ISO 14001 certified, together with all its suppliers in Brianza, its supply chain is able to be resolved in 50 square kilometers between Milan and Como, impact the environment as little as possible.

Recently, the renovation works have seen the use of reusable and renewable materials, as well as their products that guarantee high durability to clients who buy them.

Since 2012 there has been a quality control support in the company, certified according to the UNI EN ISO 14001 standard, with tests in all processing stages that also involve the staff.

Here we have a re-edition of the famous Costela armchair by Martin Eisler, an iconic armchair in the Brazilian 50s furniture. The curved supporting part is easily removable and recyclable.

The various fabrics available make it highly customizable. A piece of incredible scenic impact.

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Products

Founded in Copenhagen in 2006, Mater is a conscious and ethical design brand. The classic, timeless and durable design aesthetic is central in their business and they preserve this style by collaborating with talented Danish and international designers. High quality sustainable materials, minimal style and soft colors in an unmistakable modern classy. The company deals with highend furniture and lighting, designed for both commercial and residential use. Henrik Marstrand, founder and CEO, says that when they are about to make something new they always ask "Do we have a recycled material or a new eco-friendly material? Is there a good history of support with the craftsmen?" This allows them to keep the level up. The reimagined Ocean collection of tables and chairs (originally designed in 1955), that we can see here, is made in ocean waste plastic and designed with famed designer Nanna Ditzel. The series has a lightweight structure with repeating slats and metal frames. suitable for outdoor use.

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Photography Simon Lesley Style Jack Mills Production Emily Evans Model Dani Sousa c/o Select Model London Hair Style Jason Goh c/o Gary Represents using Bumble and Bumble Makeup Nicky Weir using Dear Dahlia Photography assistance James Kellegher Post Production Robbie Jackson Location Sunset studios, London

AVVENTURA

di primavera Dreaming of a weekend trip in the countryside?

Even if it is impossible right now you can wander around the city anyway, transforming yourself in a modern urban explorer.

Playing with your wardrobe too. Spring Adventure reminds us of past explorers, but Saharan shirts, bermuda and practical outfits are sublimed into an extremely sophisticated and modern style.

This transformation also deletes the border between day and night, so that "tech” outfits (such as the cream jumpsuit) work well with the feathers dress and the white fringed one. Fabrics and aesthetics differ, but they are brought together by the colour palette, soft and earthy, warm on our mood like the sun itself.

Dress Amanda Wakeley Shoes Neous Earrings Justine Garner

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Full look Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Opposite: Shirt and pants Olēnich Bag Oroton

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Top, Pants Rejina Pyo Shoes Essen Opposite: Dress Amanda Wakeley

Jacket, Pants, Shirt Dress Joseph Shoes Neous Opposite: Shirt Oroton Jacket Olēnich

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Full look Roksanda Opposite: Earrings Justine Garner Dress Olenich

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Shirt, Pants Palmer Harding Bag Mulberry Opposite: Dress Miló Maria Bag Oroton Shoes Neous

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Dress Roksanda

Dress Pleats Please Issey Miyake Earrings Justine Garner Opposite: Dress Taller Marmo Earrings Mulberry

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