Drinks Trade #82 - Autumn 2022 by Hip Media

your news, your views Autumn 2022 issue 82

BROOKVALE UNION’S RIDICULOUSLY REFRESHING GINGER BEER

VIEWPOINT Lion Australia’s David Smith

THE BEST OF PALE ALE

CELEBRATING INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY

Rum’s Renaissance

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Editor’s Note

CREDITS

PUBLISHER The Drinks Association

www.drinksassociation.com.au All enquiries to: The Drinks Association Locked Bag 4100, Chatswood NSW 2067 ABN 26 001 376 423 The views expressed in Drinks Trade are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily those of the magazine or The Drinks Association. Copyright is held by The Drinks Association and reproduction in whole or in part, without prior consent, is not permitted.

EDITORIAL PUBLISHING EDITOR Ashley Pini.....................ashley@hipmedia.com.au EDITOR Melissa Parker.....................................melissa@hipmedia.com.au DIGITAL EDITOR Ioni Doherty.....................................ionid@drinks.asn.au CONTRIBUTORS Ken Gargett, Ian Kingham

DESIGN SENIOR DESIGNER Jihee Park ��jihee@hipmedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Jenny Park �� jenny@hipmedia.com.au

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ACCOUNTS: accounts@hipmedia.com.au For new product or current releases in Drinks Trade magazine send a sample to: HIP Media 12 Cudgee Street, Turramurra NSW 2074 www.hipmedia.com.au | facebook.com/drinksmedia ABN: 42 126 291 914

I was listening to the news the other morning, and it was like that song Skyhooks sang in the ‘70s, Horror Movie right there on my TV, except it was ABC Radio. Flood crisis, Covid Omicron BA 2, Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, Putin and the nuclear threat, mosquitoes carrying potentially fatal Japanese encephalitis, teenagers murdering each other in the street. My ten-year-old asked me to turn it off. “The world is so dark right now,” he said, out of the mouths of babes. While the world is so dark, we can be thankful in some way, our industry is seeing the light. Our special report Women in Drinks (Page 30) focuses on how far we have come with breaking the bias on diversity and inclusion in the workplace. The Drinks Association’s International Women’s Day Lunch is one of our favourite annual events, and we were thrilled at the turnout after missing the past two years. It was a true celebration of camaraderie and a look at how far we have come as an industry together to achieve tangible results in these crucial areas. The event is the platform for announcing the Annual Contribution to Industry Awards. Our winners are on page 31 in all their glory. They are well-deserved, and we congratulate them all for their extraordinary achievements. Onto a different matter of spirit, and did you know that rum is having a renaissance? Our resident staff writer, Ken Gargett, loves his rum and drew immense joy rum tasting his way around the globe. He reports on the latest news around the sugar-cane spirit and how it would be the next gin if it weren’t for all that ageing time required to get it to market. Nevertheless, we will see more in the local Australian rum space in years to come (page 58). Ken also looks at the rums produced at Husk Distillery in North Tumbulgum in New South Wales. It made a gin in order to make the rum. Check out their story on page 62. For Viewpoint this edition Ashley Pini talks to David Smith, Managing Director incumbent at Lion Australia, about joining the Lion team and his goals for Lion’s portfolio of Australian beers and international brands toward 2023 (page 24). Welcome to the Autumn edition of Drinks Trade. We hope this issue promises ‘light’ reading about our exciting, innovative and passionate industry, a bright shining light in the dark.

Melissa melissa@hipmedia.com.au

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Contents 16

NEWS

SPIRITS

BEER

Current industry news

Top Ten in Ten - trending industry news stories for the quarter by Ioni Doherty

Maker’s Mark Leading by Example by Ashley Pini

Summer and Pacific Ale by Ian Kingham

Rum to the Finish by Ken Gargett

From Rocks to Rum by Ken Gargett

Craft Beer Share of Throat continues to Rise

Viewpoint - David Smith, Lion Australia

Booting up Women in Beer by Ioni Doherty

Discover the Magic of Mudgee by Ashley Pini

Championing Women in Spirits with the Australian Women in Distilling Association

The Savvy Report - Wine in Australia.

Shiraz Review

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WINE

LAST CALL 66

Life and Times of the Negroni by Ashley Pini

INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY 2022 #BREAKTHEBIAS 30

Introduction

Leaders in the liquor industry say #breakthebias for 2022 and the future

International Women’s Day Lunch 2022 hosted by The Drink’s Association’s Embrace Difference Council

The International Women’s Day Contribution to Industry Award Winners 33

Corporate Social Responsibility Award

Most Improved Gender Equity Award

Inclusive & Diverse Workplace Award

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A Drinks Trade Promotion

HAVE YOUR CAKE & EAT IT TOO BROOKVALE UNION LAUNCH LOW SUGAR GINGER BEER THAT TICKS ALL THE BOXES.

Brookvale Union, the side hustle of 4 Pines Brewing Co and powerhouse brand behind Australia’s #1 alcoholic Ginger Beer, has just launched a new ‘Low Sugar Full Flava’ variant. It comes as both the Ginger Beer and ‘Better for you’ categories continue to experience tremendous growth, with consumers seeking lighter and more sessionable beverages. As the category leader within alcoholic Ginger Beer, Brookvale Union has been a driving force behind the explosion of the segment which has more than doubled in value. With multiple new entrants over the past 12 months keen to get a slice of the ginger prize, Brookvale Union believes that the category is still very much a new kid on the block and it will continue to grow through innovative pack formats and offerings. Brookvale Union recently launched a Ginger Beer 10 Can Fridge Filler with the intention to bring more people in whilst addressing a more accessible price point and driving consumption. Brookvale Union’s Low Sugar Full Flava Ginger Beer will play a key role in introducing new adult consumers to the category. Other zero-sugar RTDs often fail to live up to expectations, leaving an artificial taste in punters’ mouths. Brookvale Union’s Low Sugar Ginger Beer on the other hand promises to deliver an epic tasting experience for your mouth with zero compromises on flavour. At 4% ABV (identical to Brookvale Union’s original Ginger Beer), the recipe for Low Sugar was meticulously developed to replicate the same ginger spice and fiery

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kick that consumers love, with 70% less sugar and only 104 calories per can. The sweetness and ginger spice are balanced like Yin and Yang through the addition of agave as a natural source of sweetness that doesn’t carry an artificial aftertaste. The end result is a clean, full flavoured product that will have consumers perplexed and screaming “I can’t believe it’s not butter full sugar!”. Brookvale Union Low Sugar Ginger Beer joins the range of familiar flavours including

Vodka Lemon Lime Bitters, Vodka Peach Iced Tea and of course the original Ginger Beer. It is available to order now from leading wholesalers. Go forth and drink it with your mouth.

www.facebook.com/BrookvaleUnion/ www.instagram.com/brookvaleunion/

News

Frog’s Hollow Saloon opens in Brisbane CBD

Walsh Whiskey appoints Amber Beverage Australia as distributor of The Irishman & Writers’ Tears super-premium whiskey ranges Walsh Whiskey appoints Amber Beverage Australia as distributor of The Irishman & Writers’ Tears superpremium whiskey ranges. Amber Beverage Australia (previously Think Spirits) has been appointed by Walsh Whiskey as the exclusive Australian distributor of the Irish whiskey ranges: The Irishman® and Writers’ Tears®. The appointment came into effect in February this year. Amber Beverage Australia will distribute four expressions in The Irishman range (The Harvest, Single Malt, 12 Year Old Single Malt, Vintage Cask Strength) and six from the Writers’ Tears portfolio (Copper Pot, Double Oak, Red Head, Vintage Cask Strength, Japanese Mizunara Finish, Florio Marsala Finish). Announcing the partnership with Amber Beverage Australia, Walsh Whiskey co-founder Bernard Walsh said: “Irish whiskey sales in Australia have more than doubled in the last five years, and given the double-digit growth of the category internationally for all bar one year in the last 30 years, I am sure that will continue under the expertise of the Amber Beverage Australia team.” Amber Beverage Australia distributes a portfolio of premium spirits and liqueurs Australia-wide and boasts local representation in all six states and the two territories of Australia. Patrick Borg, Managing Director of Amber Beverage Australia, said: “We’re thrilled to be distributing Walsh Whisky and have no doubt The Irishman and Writer’s Tears will fit in seamlessly into Amber Beverage Australia’s portfolio of premium spirits and liqueurs – with the unique taste profiles both brands offer through their portfolios. Amber Beverage Australia has a proven track record of building brands through planned consumer and trade marketing and we look forward to working with Walsh Whisky to grow these iconic brands here in Australia.” These triple-distilled super-premium whiskeys have amassed a swathe of international awards over the years. 2021 saw the portfolio accumulate no fewer than 19 awards across 14 expressions from San Francisco to Tokyo (taking the long way round).

Peter Hollands (formally The Gresham, Bacardi National Brand Ambassador) and Nick Winter (formally Bianca Restaurant, The Gresham, Mjolner Melbourne) have combined to open their own whisky bar, Frog’s Hollow Saloon, which they hope to be Brisbane’s first, true, saloon style venue. Frog’s Hollow Saloon is in the John Reid & Nephews building at 26 Charlotte St sporting a heritage façade with brick work and double sash windows of early Brisbane, complemented inside with 50-year-old floorboards and exposed ceilings. “Brisbane, after a couple of Covid years is looking for somewhere easy to gather with friends. Along with building a beautiful venue we wanted a space that was easy just to come on in, walk up to the bar and get a drink. We’ve got one of the strongest teams I’ve ever worked with, and we believe our offering is going to be unique to the Brisbane bar scene.” Peter Hollands. “Service should be fun! I’m a huge believer in hiring based on personality and passion. We got extremely lucky that our team is also incredibly talented. Talent and personality make for amazing service, and we can’t wait to share that with Brisbane!” said Nick Winter. Frog’s Hollow Saloon will trade seven days a week from 3pm to 1am.

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News

T P TEN IN TEN

HERE’S A QUICK TEN-MINUTE READ OF THE TOP TEN TRENDING ONLINE LIQUOR INDUSTRY NEWS STORIES FOR THE PAST QUARTER ON DRINKSTRADE.COM.AU VISIT DRINKSTRADE.COM.AU FOR DAILY NEWS UPDATES. Words Ioni Doherty, Editor Drinks Trade Digital Edition

1. SAM FISCHER ANNOUNCED AS LION’S NEW CEO February 8, 2022 President Asia Pacific and Global Travel at Diageo, Sam Fischer, will return to Sydney in July to commence as CEO of Lion Group. He will run alongside David Smith – also ex-Diageo – who started in the role of Managing Director in late January. Lion Chairman Sir Rod Eddington said: “On behalf of Kirin and the Lion Board, I am thrilled to welcome Sam home to Australia and Lion. Sam brings 30 years of global leadership experience, deep expertise in alcohol beverages and FMCG businesses and a strong track record in driving business growth.” In announcing his appointment, Mr Fischer said: “It’s a privilege to be joining Lion – a company with a proud 180-year history in Australia and New Zealand, incredible stable of locally loved brands and a growing craft beer business in the United States. 2. KONVOY RAISES $30M & PREPARES FOR GLOBAL EXPANSION February 15, 2022 Konvoy, Adam Trippe-Smith’s two-year-old keg rental venture, raised $30m late in 2021. The funds will support its expansion into the lucrative European market where there are next to no keg rental services and the highly competitive US and the UK, all ahead of its planned IPO in the next 18-24 months. Konvoy’s red kegs are fitted with a beacon, welded to the top and strong enough

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to act as a handle once in place. This beacon operates as a tracking device and thermometer, measuring the keg’s temperature, which correlates closely with the draught beer, seltzer or pre-mixed spirit inside. Mr Trippe-Smith plans to head to the Craft Brewers Conference & BrewExpo America in Minneapolis in May and Drinktec in Munich in September to launch Konvoy’s technology arm, Katch, and introduce the tracking technology already operational in Australia. 3. 2022 WORLD GIN AWARDS ANNOUNCE COUNTRY WINNERS January 25, 2022 After an expert panel of international judges scored and evaluated the world’s best gins for months, the World Gin Awards announced the Country Winners on January 21 2022. These gins will go through to the World Gin Awards Finals when the best in the world is named and crowned next month. The World Gin Awards presented by TheDrinksReport.com is part of The World Drinks Awards and recognises quality international drinks. The Awards select, reward and promote the world’s best beverages to consumers and trade across the globe. Along with the Australian country winners in each category, Australia gained eight Gold medals, 45 Silver and 28 Bronze. Last year Australia was the only country to win multiple categories in the World’s Best =

with two gongs for Best Contemporary and Best Signature Botanical Gin. 4. BETTER BEER A ‘RUNAWAY SUCCESS’ FOR MIGHTYCRAFT February 2, 2022 With $1.8m in sales for the quarter alone, Better Beer accounted for more than 20 per cent of beer and cider sales in Q2 FY22, with demand for the product beyond all expectations. Mighty Craft reported stock shortages of Better Beer through November and December, and the business has subsequently increased its sales forecast to 4 million litres for FY22, 1 million litres above initial expectations. Mighty Craft’s total beer and cider sales for the quarter were $8.4m, an increase of 21.9 per cent compared to the same period last year. 5. CHUCK HAHN’S 50 YEARS IN BREWING Everyone who was ever anyone in brewing at Lion celebrated Chuck Hahn’s 50 Years in Brewing at Squire’s Landing in Circular Quay on Monday evening. Delayed twice this year but third time lucky, the event went ahead to celebrate the man widely considered the forefather of craft brewing in Australia. An “entrepreneur in a brewer’s body”, the evening’s tributes to him painted a picture of someone who transformed the way Australians drink beer. Lion’s outgoing Managing Director, James Brindley said, “When I arrived, the job

description said I was his boss but it was really the other way around.” While son Scott Hahn acknowledged that it is not he and his four sisters who are Mr Hahn’s legacies, but rather Hahn Premium, James Squire and Mt Kosciusko. “The beer is his legacy. And the friendships, mentorships, his shared learnings and moments of joy and refreshment that we have all come to share with you, Dad,” said Scott Hahn. 6. KARL MARTIN APPOINTED MANAGING DIRECTOR AT YALUMBA February 16, 2022 Yalumba’s Managing Director, Nick Waterman, will retire in September after almost twenty years of service to the company, with current Executive Director – Commercial at Yalumba, Karl Martin, stepping into the role. Mr Martin joined the business in 1994, serving in several finance, support and executive roles in four different countries before taking on his current position in 2010. “We have every confidence that Karl will continue Nick’s exceptional leadership, taking us further along our journey, managing our unique culture and growing our wine business in line with our family’s vision,” said a Yalumba spokesperson. 7. AUSTRALIA’S FTA WITH INDIA ADVANCES February 10, 2022 Minister for Trade, Tourism and Investment Dan Tehan is on his way to India to advance

negotiations on a free trade agreement and promote Australia as a premium destination for students and tourists. Mr Tehan will have several meetings with his Indian counterpart, Minister of Commerce and Industry, Consumer Affairs and Food, and Public Distribution and Textiles, Piyush Goyal, to further negotiations on the India-Australia Comprehensive Economic Cooperation Agreement (CECA). One of the world’s largest and fastest developing economies, India has enormous prospects for the Australian drinks industry and would be a game-changer for Australian craft distillers. 8. AUSTRALIA’S FIRST-EVER ALL AUSTRALIAN WHISKY SHOW February 14, 2022 Melbourne will host Australia’s first whisky festival dedicated entirely to Australian whisky when The Australian Whisky Show is hosted at the Pullman Hotel on Sunday, April 3. Held in partnership with the Australian Distillers Association, The Australian Whisky Show will showcase over 100 different whiskies and spirits, all produced by distilleries from across Australia. With over 350 distilleries in Australia now making whisky, Paul McLeay, ADA Chief Executive, says it is an exciting opportunity to celebrate Australian whisky makers at such an exciting time in the industry’s development. 6

9. STATE OF SELTZER’S SUMMER PLAY February 10, 2022 In its global trends report for the year, IWSR forecasted that hard seltzers will account for half of all global RTD volumes by 2025 (up from a 30 per cent share in 2020), buoyed by consumer demand and the “better-for-you” movement. The market analysts predict that hard seltzers will continue their growth in Australia, noting that we are still in the early days in the life of seltzer in this country. In September, Drinks Trade reported that sales of seltzers more than doubled in the year prior to become one of the fastest-growing sub-categories across Dan Murphy’s and BWS. 9

10. $20 MILLION WORTH OF GIVEAWAYS, INCLUDING A $50K CASH PRIZE WITH BWS COOLER January 6, 2022 Drinks retailer BWS is giving away $20 million worth of prizes, including everything from free drinks and electronics to hot air balloon rides and a cash prize of $50,000 with its yearly summer BWS Cooler in-app. BWS customers can swipe daily for a chance to win. This year BWS has doubled the size of its prize pool, and customers can redeem free product prizes or SipCoins in stores and online. “This year’s BWS Cooler is our coolest yet, and customers are in for a wonderful summer of surprises,” said BWS Head of Marketing Vanessa Rowed.

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News

Moon Dog Cooler Moon Dog Brewing is entering the ready to drink cocktail market with the launch of Moon Dog Cooler. Moon Dog Cooler is a new range of juicy cocktail spritzes that will be hitting shelves this month. Inspired by retro cocktails and mixed by three time Australian bartender of the year, Chris Hysted-Adams (formerly Black Pearl) these cocktails see Hysted-Adams jump back into the world of cocktail making. “It was really fun experimenting with different natural flavours and emulsions to create something that stands out against handmixed spritzes. It’s been something that I’ve been drinking a lot of in recent months and I’m chuffed to now share it with consumers on a national scale”, says Hysted-Adams. A 4-pack of Moon Dog Cooler retains for $25, with a 16-can carton coming in at just under $100. Two Moon Dog Cooler flavours will be available at Moon Dog’s on line store, in select First Choice Liquor Stores, and in all good independent bottle shops. First flavours are: Blood Orange, Finger Lime and Agave and Passion Fruit, Yellow Peach and Yuzu. “The Blood Orange, Finger Lime & Agave Cocktail Spritz is the perfect spritzy Margarita for summer; it’s super light and refreshing but full of flavour. The Passion Fruit, Yellow Peach & Yuzu Cocktail Spritz is a perfectly balanced uber tropical punch that offers a natural juicy finish without being too sweet”, says Hysted-Adams. MOON DOG BREWING VENUE MOON DOG WORLD 32 Chifley Drive, Preston VIC MOON DOG OG 17 Duke Street, Abbotsford VIC

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Beenleigh Artisan Distillers give back to Queensland Flood Appeal after flood disaster Australia’s oldest operating distillery, Beenleigh Artisan Distillers, has announced it will donate $5 from every bottle of rum sold at its distillery to the Queensland Flood Appeal to help support the clean-up of the flooding in Queensland. Like many Queenslanders, the team at Beenleigh was impacted by the floods with the iconic Big Red Shed that is, in parts, the original Beenleigh Distillery from 1884, going under after the Albert River rose 7.4 metres. From today, every bottle sold at Beenleigh Artisan Distillery will see $5 donated to Queensland Flood Appeal for the next month. Beenleigh knows, after already being impacted by the floods in 2017, that after the rains stop the clean-up will still continue for many months, and that the battle is far from over for Queenslanders and other flood affected communities. Venue manager, Adam Fagg, said the community will continue to rally as the clean-up begins. “Seeing our Big Red Shed go under was heartbreaking and our thoughts are with everyone who has been impacted by these terrible floods. We’re so thankful for the incredible work of those around us and we wanted to find a way to give back and aid the clean-up efforts,” said Fagg. “Our distillers stayed at the Shed overnight to prepare for the floods and we’re so proud of the family we have here and their efforts to minimise the damage. Queenslanders are fighters and we know our local communities will bounce back from this and continue to support their local communities as we recover and rebuild.”

CRAFTED WITH METICULOUS DETAIL 20 2 2 VI NTAGE REL EASE

For more information contact your Accolade Wines Business Development Manager or call 131 492

News

Andrew Caillard’s Blind Ambition Master of Wine Andrew Caillard is the Associate Producer of a new documentary, Blind Ambition. The film won the Audience Award at Tribeca Film Festival and Sydney Film Festival in 2020 and tells the story of four Zimbabwean refugees who take on the best of the wine world in France. Team Zimbabwe – Joseph Dhafana, Marlvin Gwese, Tinashe Nyamudoka, Pardon Taguzu – escape starvation and tyranny in their homeland of Zimbabwe, before going on to become South Africa’s top sommeliers. Driven by relentless optimism, a passion for their craft and unshakeable national pride, the four join to form Zimbabwe’s first ever wine tasting team and set their sights on the coveted title of World Wine Tasting Champions. From the moment the team arrives in France to compete, Team Zimbabwe turns the wine tasting establishment of privilege

Ryan Reynolds: Aviation Gin and A Bunch Of Negronis

A recent tasting of the Ryan Reynolds owned Aviation Gin has brought insight into the “American Gin” category, its flavour profile and its origins. In 2006 Christian Krogstad and Ryan Magarian of Noble Spirits got together and decided they wanted to develop American style gin, that was bartender led and was designed for the American palate. With so many cocktails using gin, often with a

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and tradition on its head. Blind Ambition is directed by Warwick Ross and Rob Coe. They had learned about the wine industry when they directed Red Obsession – Mr Caillard’s first foray into feature filmmaking as an Associate Producer. The filmmakers say, “When Jancis Robinson, one of the world’s foremost wine authorities, alerted us to the extraordinary rise of four Zimbabwean refugees who were fast becoming South Africa’s top sommeliers, we were immediately drawn to their story. Having made feature documentary Red Obsession four years earlier, we knew the wine establishment to be Europe-centric, exclusive, and overwhelmingly white. “Zimbabwe is a country with next to no wine production or wine consumption. So how was it that these four men, who had never even tasted wine before escaping

polarising taste profile, the pair saw the opportunity to create a new category – and co-founded Aviation Gin. When discussing how (in tastings) they approached the new style, Ryan Magarian said: “if I can get them to The Gimlet, so many times I see a lightbulb go off, and by the end of the tasting I can have them trying it neat and they’ve often become gin drinkers – or maybe Aviation drinkers”. The tasting revealed Indian sarsaparilla, dried orange peel (with both a sweet and citrus burst), and on the mid-palate; cardamon, anise seed, coriander and lavender. The name Aviation Gin was taken from the classic cocktail, The Aviation, and is part of the tasting regime after each batch is put together in Portland. Aviation Gin became a bartender favourite across North America and while shooting Deadpool 2 in Vancouver, Ryan Reynolds bumped into it. “I ordered a Negroni at a local bar after shooting and ended up going back multiple times before asking what made this Negroni

from Robert Mugabe’s brutal regime, were now the head sommeliers at the four best restaurants in Cape Town? “Even more remarkable was that they were in the process of forming a team to compete against 24 other countries at the World Wine Tasting Championships in France. The first black team ever to do so. Team Zimbabwe.” Blind Ambition was released in cinemas around Australia earlier this month. Wine lovers will love this film.

so special, to which the bartender replied, ‘Aviation Gin’.” “This is the best damn gin on this planet. And I mean planet Earth. I can’t speak for any other planets”, continued Reynolds. This isn’t in the London Dry style, it’s definitely more citrus forward, so we mixed up a couple of drinks that suited: a Gin Highball, and the Ryan Reynolds Negroni. GIN HIGHBALL 45ml Aviation Gin Top with Fever Tree Soda Water Add a lime wedge Add an olive Fill Collins Glass with Ice, pour and garnish with a lime wedge and an olive. THE RYAN REYNOLDS NEGRONI 45ml Aviation Gin 20ml Rosso Amaro 20ml of Vermouth Rouge Mix over ice in mixing glass. Dilute and chill. Add fresh ice to a collins glass and pour. Garnish with orange peel

PATRÓN TEQUILA SIMPLY PERFECT

News

Dan Murphy’s Enters New Wine Subscription With Dan Picked Dan Murphy’s has announced its expansion into wine subscription, with a curated offering where every bottle is handpicked by Dan Murphy’s wine team and delivered every two months. Every Dan Picked wine box contains six bottles including one ‘Wildcard’: aimed to expand and delight the palate. Each box also includes handy tasting notes to shine a light on each wine and their flavour profiles, while also offering food matches. Dan Picked subscriptions start at $99.00 (shipping is free) and includes a $129.00 option, as well as a $159.00 which is the highest price point. It’s for those looking to expand their wine palate but is also well suited for those who already consider themselves solid cellar dwellers! Dan Murphy’s Managing Director Alex Freudmann said: “What we have seen in the last two years is that Australian consumers expect more convenience than ever, which is why we have created Dan Picked; to provide a service that is as seamless and smooth as the wines curated in each box.” “We’re excited that this subscription model gives customers the opportunity to explore wine varieties they may never have tried before, including many from smaller, more regional wineries.”

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Bundaberg Rum Launches New Limited-Edition Flood Appeal Rum From Our Town To Yours Bundaberg Rum aims to raise $200,000 for flood relief efforts in Queensland and NSW through a new limited-edition “From Our Town to Yours” Rum. Each bottle in the collectable Rum series will feature the name of one of the more than 40 floodimpacted regions. All profits will go to the Australian Red Cross QLD and NSW Floods Appeal. To kickstart things the proudly Queensland brand will donate $100,000 to the Australian Red Cross QLD and NSW Floods Appeal, and is aiming to raise another $100,000 with the release of a new limited-edition flood appeal Rum, called From Our Town to Yours. To pay tribute to the resilience and fortitude on display along much of Australia’s east-coast, each of these collectable bottles will feature the name of one of the more than 40 flood ravaged regions – from Gladstone, to Gympie, Brisbane, Lismore and Greater Sydney. The limited-edition premium blend aged Rum will be sold via the Bundaberg Rum website, with 100 per cent of profits going to the Australian Red Cross QLD and NSW Floods Appeal. Bundaberg Rum Distillery Marketing Manager Duncan Littler said, “This limitededition Rum is from our town to yours, it's Bundy's way of having the backs of these great communities in need,” Mr Littler said.

Yalumba’s Executive Board Changes Significant changes to the Executive Board of Directors at Australia’s oldest family-owned winery have been announced, including the retirement of Yalumba’s Managing Director Nick Waterman in September this year. Waterman has led the business as CEO since March 2015, and during this time has operationally contemporised Yalumba in preparation for future generations. Waterman joined the company’s distribution business Negociants Australia in 2003 and quickly worked his way to Executive Director – Strategy & Trading and then Chief Operating Officer in 2014. Waterman is held in high regard across the wine industry, having held the presidency of the South Australian Wine Industry Association. Moving into the role of Managing Director is current Executive Director – Commercial at Yalumba, Karl Martin. Martin joined the business in 1994, serving in a number of finance, support and executive roles in four different countries before taking on his current role in 2010. Fifth-generation proprietor and Yalumba Chairman Robert Hill-Smith reflects on Waterman’s time as Managing Director. “Nick has approached the CEO task with incredible stamina, loyalty, resilience and intelligence and we are in many ways a transformed wine company that now, thanks to him, is set to drive our aspirations with confidence.” “Needless to say, we shall miss his leadership, presence and character whilst recognising so much more work is set to go under our bridge before that time comes.” “We have every confidence that Karl will continue Nick’s exceptional leadership, taking us further along our journey, managing our unique culture and growing our wine business in line with our family’s vision,” said Hill-Smith.

Wine Region Spotlight

DISCOVERING THE MAGIC OF MUDGEE

MUDGEE IS THE OLDEST OF THE THREE REGIONS THAT MAKE UP THE CENTRAL RANGES. IT BOASTS A CONTINUOUS HISTORY OF WINEMAKING DATING BACK TO THE MIDDLE OF THE 19TH CENTURY. IT IS KNOWN FOR ELEGANT REDS, ACID-DRIVEN WHITES, AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN: IN FACT, SOME OF THE REGION'S MOST ILLUSTRIOUS WINEMAKERS WILL TELL YOU THERE IS NO HERO OF MUDGEE. YOU, OF COURSE, NEED TO TRY EVERYTHING. Words by Ashley Pini

Mudgee was awarded Gold in the Australian Tourism Awards 2021 Judges comments: Mudgee is loved as a contemporary country destination, infused with art and music, serving quality produce and wine, and shaped by a strong sense of community. Visitors are invited to connect right across the region, including the townships of Mudgee, Gulgong, Rylstone and Kandos. The community collaborate to support the sustainable growth of tourism in keeping with a vibrant yet intimate setting. Visitors are encouraged to slow down and reset their senses. Located less than 270km northwest of Sydney, the fuss-free journey is all part of the experience, and what awaits is a stunning mix of charm and sophistication.

While Mudgee may not be as cool as its higher neighbour in Orange, warm days and cool nights give the grapes plenty of stimulation fettered with rest, producing some premium wines that are getting more attention by the day. The township itself remains a genuine attraction with the rural atmosphere mixed with prosperity, mainly owing to the local mining industry. There are increasingly familiar names adorning wine labels from the region for the wine tourists. Mudgee won the top Gold at the Australian Tourism Awards, recognizing the "stunning mix of charm and sophistication", so it was well-positioned to benefit from the recent COVID inspired explosion in domestic tourism. Sydneysiders and Canberrans are rediscovering regional Australia and finding some familiar haunts along the way. Here you will find cellar doors for Robert Oatley, Burrundull, Moothi Estate, Logan Wines, First Ridge, Vinifera and Bunnamagoo, among others.

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Wine Region Spotlight

FROM PEARLS TO WINE THE PASPALEY FAMILY SHIFTED FROM CRAFTING JEWELS OF THE OCEAN TO CRAFTING THE GEMS OF THE VINE WHEN THEY LAUNCHED BUNNAMAGOO WINES IN 1994. THESE HUGELY SUCCESSFUL PEARL DIVERS CONTINUE TO DELIVER PREMIUM MUDGEE WINES OF ELEGANCE AND FINESSE ALMOST THIRTY YEARS LATER. WE HEAR FROM ROB BLACK, CHIEF WINEMAKER, ABOUT A NEW LABEL DESIGN FOR THE POPULAR MOUNT LAWSON AND PREMIUM BUNNAMAGOO RANGE RANGES. Bunnamagoo Wines sources its grapes from the Bunnamagoo Estate, a historic property near Rockley, and the Eurunderee vineyard not far from Mudgee. Rockley has one of the coolest climates in Australia. That, together with its deep volcanic basalt soils, results in wines of distinctive cool-climate style. At Mudgee, the warmer climate and variable soils underlaid with limestone produce wines with subtle nuances and warmth. The range has recently undergone significant changes in brand architecture as it revamps its Bunnamagoo Range and the much-loved Lawson Range. The latter has received a new label depicting the region's flora and fauna. While still staying true to the brand's heritage, it hopes to draw a new audience while keeping the traditional cues for its loyal followers.

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INTERVIEW WITH ROB BLACK, CHIEF WINEMAKER, BUNNAMAGOO WINES Tell us about the style of the Mount Lawson and the Bunnamagoo Ranges - what can the consumer expect and what makes the wines distinctly Bunnamagoo? Both products are friendly siblings, not rivals. Each is made with the house style. They have some basic similarities like medium palate weight and tannin structure. The Mt Lawson range is moreish - keep reaching for another bottle. Bunnamagoo, on the other hand, has more winemaking complexity, fruit and oak balance, and the ability to enjoy as a young or more mature cellared wine. To me, we have always focussed on making Bunnamagoo a reliable product that satisfies even the most cautious and sceptical wine drinkers. How have you seen the wines evolve, and what are your thoughts on the new look? Wine fashions are not the same as 30 years ago, 20 or even ten years ago. As winemakers, we tend to make wines selfishly that satisfy our palates with the hope that we get a following. Nowadays, wines are better balanced with a less heavy-handed approach. The new label reflects this. Fresh and easier on the eye but with more detail. New and experienced drinkers, I think, will feel comfortable sitting alongside either the refreshed Mt. Lawson or Bunnamagoo label, knowing that it has the substance on the inside to back it up.

Many regions have found the 2022 harvest challenging. How has it been in Mudgee? At the time of writing this, we are halfway through harvest. The Mudgee whites are all picked and fermenting in tank. Happily, I can report that thanks to the hard work in the vineyard, we have juice with perfect ripeness and fresh acid. All are very workable parcels of fruit, and we are excited about the potential given the challenges faced. Time will tell, but from experience, the best wines come from the most trying circumstances.

Veiwpoint

DAVID SMITH

MANAGING DIRECTOR, LION AUSTRALIA FROM HIS POSITION AS MANAGING DIRECTOR DIAGEO SOUTHERN EUROPE, DAVID SMITH HAS RETURNED TO AUSTRALIA TO ASSUME HIS NEW POSITION AS MANAGING DIRECTOR, LION AUSTRALIA. HE TALKS TO DRINKS TRADE ABOUT HIS ASPIRATIONS FOR LEADING LION AUSTRALIA’S BEER AND SPIRITS BUSINESS INTO A NEW POST-PANDEMIC ERA.

As Australia is a market you’re already familiar with, what is your focus for 2022? I feel energised to be back in the Australian drinks and hospitality industry, one of the very best in the world. It’s been great to get out in the trade in my first few weeks. I am looking forward to working with the great team at Lion to build our brands and the business while creating value for our customers and partners. The obvious factor we’re all up against is the recovery of the on-premise channel. Draught beer is the lifeblood of venues, and we want to see people back out and enjoying their local venues with family and friends and a cold schooner of XXXX, Furphy or Tooheys. Helping people be social and live well is not only key to our core purpose, it employs tens of thousands of Australians and makes a significant contribution to our economy. What are Lion’s key opportunities for growth in this market as the on-premise rebuilds and the consumer trends move towards health and wellbeing? Nothing beats a fresh beer on tap at your local. We are focused on innovating and giving people beer and adult beverages they enjoy, whether that is in the low or no-alcohol space or craft and premium. We are also mindful that our consumers want different drinks for all occasions. As Lion’s first locally-produced alcoholfree beer, the launch of James Squire Zero last year met with great enthusiasm by consumers. We look forward to sharing more in this space over the year ahead.

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What is so interesting about the alcohol-free beer market is that it is proving a genuine method by which beer drinkers choose to moderate. Instead of having a couple of full or mid-strength beers, we see them swap out one of those for an alcohol-free option. Last year, a fantastic innovation to come out of our Vanguard Luxury Spirits business was the Modern Cocktail Company (MoCo), a premium on-tap cocktail made from the best spirits and mixers. It has helped many of our on-premise customers offer a more premium cocktail list without the need for any additional staff training. We know labour shortages are being felt acutely in our sector. It’s an excellent example of putting the customers’ needs and preferences at the forefront of our innovation.

How does your business address and champion inclusivity and diversity amongst your staff? Can you outline some of your key strategies in this area and give examples of their effectiveness? Lion has been on this journey for quite some time. Being new to the business but having spent a lot of time in the industry, I have always been impressed by Lion’s unwavering focus on its people, culture, and hard work in creating a workplace where people can thrive and succeed. A significant turning point for Lion was probably closing the gender pay gap in 2017. At the time, it was a $6 million investment to address the pay gap across Lion in like-for-like roles. Lion has been a WGEA Employer of Choice for Gender Equality since 2019. To back this up, Lion has a target to achieve gender-balanced teams across all parts of the business by 2026. We see this as an achievable but meaningful goal to achieve more diversity. We have also made several meaningful policy changes. Our parental leave policy, for example, removes ‘primary’ and ‘secondary’ carer labels and moves to a model of shared care where we provide the same parental leave provisions (12 weeks’ full paid parental leave) for both parents. At the same time, we increased superannuation payments, now paid up to 18 weeks. At Lion, we already funded 12 weeks of superannuation on the paid portion of parental leave. We pay an extra six weeks of superannuation at the minimum wage. It’s an important policy

change that tackles the huge discrepancy in superannuation balances between Australian men and women. We are also pleased to be extending our commitments in this space to our sponsorships. Early this year, Furphy made a major play into the AFLW by ramping up its sponsorships of the Melbourne Demons, St Kilda Saints, Richmond Tigers and Sydney Swans alongside their AFL teams. It’s the first time a major beer club sponsor has matched its sponsorship commitment across AFL and AFLW teams. We believe it will go a long way to support the clubs and raise the profile of AFLW around the country. Moving beyond gender, in 2020, we launched Pride at Lion – a group dedicated to driving visibility and equality for Lion’s LGBTIQ+ community and promoting an inclusive working environment in which all team members can be their best authentic selves. In February, we announced that Lion will be a major partner of Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras in 2022, with Little Creatures the official beer of Mardi Gras for the next three years and Sydney World Pride in 2023. Is there a role within your business specifically tasked with promoting inclusivity? We have a fantastic team in People & Culture overseeing our Inclusion and Diversity agenda who have the full support of the entire leadership team. They’re constantly looking for new and innovative ways to achieve a more inclusive and diverse

The Lion team celebrate The Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras 2022 partnership.

workplace. What we know is that it’s up to every one of us to create the kind of inclusive business we all want to work in, so it can’t be a set and forget exercise. It’s about evolving and always aiming to go one step better. Since adopting an inclusive workplace, how has this impacted your business? E.g. Profit. Productivity. Company culture. Staff turnover. Talent acquisition. Diverse teams deliver better innovation, better customer and consumer advocacy and stronger financial performance, so the business case for us is clear. We track specific D&I measures in

our regular ‘People Pulse’ surveys across Lion, which consistently show us that we are already operating off a high baseline. Pleasingly, we see positive increases against key measures that track whether people feel included at work and diverse perspectives are valued. We also know that having a strong D&I agenda helps us recruit the best talent. What strategies has your business implemented to lower emissions and achieve carbon neutrality? Long before Lion achieved its Climate Active accreditation for its Scope 1 and 2 emissions in 2019, its mission has been to reduce overall carbon emissions.

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Viewpoint

We recently partnered with BevChain to launch NSW’s first electric and carbonneutral beer truck. It’s doing the rounds in metropolitan Sydney delivering kegs from Tooheys. The Tooheys New electric truck is the latest in a suite of carbon reduction initiatives and the first of many to address our Scope 3 emissions, which will help us achieve a net-zero value chain by 2050. The Tooheys Brewery in Lidcombe, NSW’s biggest brewery, became the anchor partner in the world’s first industry-scale aggregated Power Purchase Agreement in 2019, pooling its energy needs with

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participating venues in partnership with the AHA NSW. The result is a win-win-win for publicans, the brewer, and the environment, with power sourced from ENGIE’s solar farms across NSW. At XXXX in Queensland, we proudly harvest the sun to power the iconic brewery in Milton, having installed a significant solar array in 2019, which consists of more than 2,000 solar panels and produces enough electricity to power 150 large homes in Brisbane for a year. XXXX’s state-of-the-art reverse osmosis plant reuses wastewater – enabling the production of XXXX Gold at a ratio of

2.8 litres of water for every litre of beer, which is approaching world-leading levels of efficiency for brewing. Both the Tooheys and XXXX Breweries also utilise biogas which replaces natural gas and reduces scope 1 emissions. What strategies has your business implemented to reduce water wastage? We have wastewater plants at our two biggest breweries – XXXX and Tooheys, which treat wastewater and create biogas from the organic compounds found in the wastewater. The biogas is then used as a biogenic heat source to offset our natural

gas usage to boil the wort in the first stage of the brewing process. Interestingly, we decanted large volumes of unused kegs in the first lockdown in 2020, and a lot of this beer went through our wastewater plants and played a part in making the fresh beer for when venues reopened. What internal changes have you made to reduce environmental harm? E.g. Remote work options. Encouraging recycling at work. Working towards digital. Sustainable committees. Encourage green commuting. Lion has evolved its flexible work policy in

recent years to ensure people are supported to work in a way that allows them to maintain a good work/life balance and operate effectively as teams. For many, this involves working from home for part of the week, and in many ways, taking flexible working mainstream helped Lion when the pandemic hit because our workforce was already well set up to work remotely. From an environmental point of view, Lion announced last year it would eliminate plastic shrink wrap from its packaging over the next two years. Since November last year, can and 6-packs are no longer shrinkwrapped in plastic.

Lion is also the first major brewer in Australia to partner with REDcycle – a national soft plastic recycling initiative – which collects and reuses soft plastics that cannot go into kerbside recycling. We see this as an important partnership as we continue phasing out plastics around bottles. Are there any new strategies you are planning to implement in this area in the future? Lion has committed to Net Zero in the Supply Chain by 2050. It will see us tackle Scope 3 carbon emissions in earnest, so this is a massive focus for the business moving forward.

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Maker’s Mark

MAKER’S MARK LEADING BY EXAMPLE WHEN WELL-KNOWN BRANDS, WITH GLOBAL MARKETING RESOURCES, PUT FORWARD A MISSION STATEMENT ESPOUSING THEIR VALUES AND MAKING BOLD CLAIMS, YOU CAN BE EXCUSED FOR BEING A LITTLE SUSPICIOUS. THEREFORE, IT BECOMES ALL THE MORE IMPORTANT TO TAKE NOTE WHEN THEY WALK THE TALK, LEADING FROM THE FRONT AND LIVING UP TO THEIR COMMITMENTS. IN THE CASE OF MAKER’S MARK, THAT’S ALL ABOUT ‘MAKE YOUR MARK. LEAVE NO TRACE’ – NOW AND FOR THE FUTURE. Words by Ashley Pini

The ‘Make Your Mark. Leave No Trace’ mission statement has been ratified, so to speak, as the Kentucky-based distillery has been announced as the world’s largest distillery to earn B Corp certification, which recognises companies working to build a more inclusive and sustainable economy. The bar is set high; it took two employees seven months to cover all aspects of the submission: including areas such as Community, Customers, Environment, Governance and Workers. This has long been at the heart of the Maker’s Mark business. Rob Samuels, an eighth-generation member of the Samuels family involved with distilling whiskey, gave his thoughts on the certification. “The B-Corp certification is particularly interesting because it thinks holistically about brands and companies - how they engage with their supply chain, how they treat their team, their sustainability leadership, their involvement in the community, and a thorough benchmarking that took us seven or eight months to submit.” “It’s a great honour as the eighth

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generation of the Samuels family involved with the production of whisky here in the Commonwealth of Kentucky. My grandparents, Bill and Margie Samuels, nearly 70 years ago, had the dream and the vision that led to creating what would become Maker’s Mark, and they’ve been credited with creating premium Bourbon— elevating Bourbon to a more premium place that didn’t exist when they got started. “Starting as a hobby, nurturing along thoughtfully, and I know they would be proud that here we are on the cusp of really becoming a global brand while ensuring that the hand-made Bourbon is to the same standard it was in the beginning. And, even beyond that, they always were adamant the distillery, and their hand-made Bourbon stood for a higher purpose, where the vectors point outwards—not pointing back to ourselves. They strove to have a brand with a higher purpose in the community. And they lived it. In the beginning, it was in small ways because they had meagre means, and here we are nearly 70 years after the founding, and we are super energised and committed to living with

higher purpose values across everything we do. Our distillery sits on a national historic landmark, within a 1500 acre working farm, and we are leaving an important part of the future sustainability of the American whisky through preserving oak, water, and grain.” “So, we’re proud to be the first distillery in Kentucky and the largest distillery in the world to achieve B-Corp certification based on the way we are operating today.” When asked if there was an area of the certification, which was quite broad, that Marker’s Mark tried to focus on over anything else, Samuels explained: “I don’t think you can be selective when embracing higher purpose; I think you must live it and make the decisions that are consistent with those values in everything that you do. Big decisions and small decisions. In the early days, it was very uncomfortable, but the more consistency you build, it just becomes the way you operate. It’s extremely energising, and ultimately it will be an important part of the brand’s legacy. This is a brand that has giving at its core.” “Bartenders built Maker’s Mark. Were it

not for the professional bartenders in some of the world’s great cities early on, Maker’s Mark never would have survived. And to see our team spring into action during COVID and partner in a meaningful way where we created, through the Lee initiative, 22 relief kitchens and provided almost 4 million meals to the out of work servers and bartenders in the independent bar and restaurant community. It’s probably the most energising and important part of the work I do.” Maker’s Mark has long been a bartender favourite here in Australia, helping to shape the premium bourbon category and is now the number one fastest growing Bourbon

Maker’s Mark Bottle Dipping

Beyond that, they (Bill and Margie Samuels) always were adamant that the distillery and their handmade Bourbon stood for a higher purpose, where the vectors point outwards. Not pointing back to ourselves. And they lived it

Maker’s Mark_Barley Field

Maker’s Mark_Rob Samuels 8th generation whisky maker

by volume and value. This continues to fuel the growth in premium bourbon in the on-premise market and among bartenders looking for innovation with age statement bourbons, balanced blends and secondary finishing. “It’s particularly exciting to see Maker’s Mark develop itself as an industry leader within the premium bourbon category in Australia, with exceptional growth well ahead of the market. We look forward to seeing what the Maker’s Mark brand will achieve in 2022 as we continue to support the progression of the brand in

Australia,” said Trent Chapman, Beam Suntory Marketing Director ANZ. “Being recognised as a B Corp certified company is a true testament to the continued efforts of Maker’s Mark globally to embody the company’s environmentally conscious mission to ‘Make Your Mark. Leave No Trace,’’ added Chapman. Maker’s Mark joins more than 4,000 Certified B Corporations around the world – including Patagonia, Allbirds, Burton Snowboards and Sipsmith Gin and in Australia, Stone & Wood, Kathmandu and Emma & Tom.

Maker’s Mark achieved B Corp Certification by meeting and exceeding benchmarks across five categories: Community, Customers, Environment, Governance and Workers. Maker’s Mark environmental practices initiatives include -a distillery-wide zero-landfill initiative -an onsite recycling program that is the first in Marion County, Kentucky, and open to community members -the establishment of a natural water sanctuary protecting the watershed at Star Hill Farm -and the implementation of a solar array that powers the extensive Maker’s Mark warehouse complex. The bourbon producer is renowned for its community and philanthropic efforts, having invested millions of dollars in the hospitality industry, local Kentucky causes and the arts since its founding more than 65 years ago. In recent years, Maker’s Mark has acted as a principal partner to The LEE Initiative, which aims to address equality and diversity issues in the restaurant industry. During the COVID-19 global pandemic, Maker’s Mark and The LEE Initiative have worked together to feed more than 1.5 million hospitality workers in cities across the United States. Maker’s Mark has earned a decades-long reputation as an employer with workplace opportunities that exceed the industry standard. The company offers generous benefits and compensation, including the highest wages in its community, opportunities for advancement, job training and tuition assistance for employees, and six months of paid maternity leave.

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International Women’s Day

CELEBRATING INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY 2022 #BREAKTHEBIAS

AS WE CELEBRATE INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY DRINKS TRADE TAKES A LOOK AT CELEBRATING WOMEN IN THE INDUSTRY AND FURTHER CORRECTING GENDER BIAS TOWARD A MORE BALANCED WORKPLACE IN THE FUTURE FOR THE BENEFIT OF ALL.

As the late Robyn Williams once said, if women ran the world there would be no wars, just intense negotiations every 28 days. Although said in a comedic context, how those words resonate today amidst the terrifying and horrific events in Europe and the machismo behind them. It does make us wonder whether the great man was right. Women bring a different mindset and vision to leadership. A diverse team means diverse thoughts and voices are heard within organisations. A diverse team is better when an organisation is confronted with problems. They change the way people work, often for the better. They spark disruption and grasp the bigger picture, the bottom line as well as the importance of people. Research demonstrates they deliver better company performance, greater productivity and

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greater profitability. Hell, they might just run our country more efficiently. Corporate culture has been shrouded in male chauvinism for generations but in the 21st century we are seeing the tectonic plates of change finally shifting but we have a way to go. According to the Australian Governments Workplace Gender Equality Agency while women make up half the workplace, they are underrepresented in key decision-making roles across almost all industries. In data taken in 2019/20 only 32.5 % of women were holding key management positions, 28.1 % were directors, 18.3% were CEOs and 14.6 % were board chairs. That’s a far cry from 50%. The WGEA website states, “while Australia is making progress on many aspects of gender equality, female representation in leadership continues to

be a cause for concern.” At the current rate of women progressing into management roles it will still take another two decades for women to have equal representation in full-time management positions. For CEO roles, that target is 80 years away, around 2100. We have a long way to go, baby. But the liquor industry is committed and pulling its weight to make the change so we can stand united and strong and strive to reach these goals ahead of time. In this special report, we acknowledge the women in our industry doing the moving and shaking for change and those who support them. We congratulate the winners of The Drinks Association’s Contribution to Industry Awards and we celebrate International Women’s Day 2022. #breakthebias

LEADERS IN THE LIQUOR INDUSTRY SAY #breakthebias for 2022 and the future LEADERS IN LIQUOR TOOK TO SOCIAL MEDIA TO LEAVE THEIR THOUGHTS ON BUILDING TOWARDS GENDER EQUALITY IN OUR INDUSTRY. Professionally, I am proud that Pernod Ricard Winemakers has now achieved gender balance across senior roles. This is an important milestone and step forward for the business, and forms part of our broader commitment to create a working environment where our teams feel comfortable to truly be themselves and confident to share who they are with the people they work with. I am a firm believer in the benefits of building diverse and inclusive teams and have personally benefited from sharing experiences and learning from colleagues and friends of all genders, ages, cultures and backgrounds throughout my career. In fact, they have influenced and shaped the leader that I am today. – Bryan Fry, Chairman and CEO Pernod Ricard Winemakers. As an EOCGE holder, we are proud to be among some of Australia’s leading change-makers who are committed to embedding gender equality in the workplace. Last year we took a step further in our journey towards workplace gender equality and evolved our gender target to a minimum 40 per cent representation of both men and women in teams and we are on track to reach our 2030 goal. This is in addition to the work we’ve done updating the Families@Lion parental leave offering to be more inclusive and expanding our Domestic and Family Abuse policy and support. – Stuart Irvine, CEO, Lion Australia.

International Women’s Day is a day of reflection, acknowledgement, understanding and celebrating on both a personal and business level. I’m very proud of what we have contributed to change, particularly in our industry, and I look forward to being a part of many more steps that are required for an inclusive future – Danielle Allen, Co-Founder, Two Birds Brewing. IWD is one of my favourite days of the year – it’s my Feminist-mas! I love the opportunity to highlight and celebrate the awesome women in my work and life – Jayne Lewis, Co-Founder, Two Birds Brewing. IWD reminds me of my own responsibility as a business leader to consistently champion gender parity. At Lion, we are making good progress to achieve diversity within every team, not just because it’s the right thing to do but because it’s proven to drive stronger business performance -David Smith, Managing Director, Lion Australia. Diageo’s commitment to creating a workplace where people from diverse backgrounds can succeed, is something I am truly proud of every day. Even though we are industry leading in terms of internal and external Diversity and Inclusion policies and practices, I challenge our team to understand how we can build a more inclusive environment and support the implementation of new initiatives in this area. This is how #breakthebias – Angus McPherson, Managing Director, Diageo Australia. At Diageo, we know that progress

requires bold ambition and action. It must start with building representation throughout the organisation, and especially in the most senior roles that can influence decisions, shape culture, and provide a pathway for others. We are proud to have 60% female representation at board level, and talented women in key executive roles including Chief Financial Officer, Chief Marketing Officer, and Regional Presidents of our largest markets. However, we know there is more to do. Women bring huge value into the organisation, and it has never been more important to retain women in the workplace. The pandemic has sadly highlighted that many inequalities still exist. As one of the first companies to globally launch an equal parental leave policy, we aim to ensure the burden of childcare does not fall unduly on mothers. Since launch two years ago, Diageo’s fathers are now taking on average 99 days of parental leave. We have also strengthened support for employees experiencing menopausal symptoms and fertility issues, and we will continue to embrace flexible working so that women can thrive in all aspects of their lives. I’m incredibly proud of the work we have done at Diageo to create an equal and inclusive business. As we face into rebuilding our social and economic structures, why wouldn’t we do it in a way that is fair, equitable and eradicates the bias that still exists? There is no better time than now to #BreakTheBias – Louise Prashad, Chief HR Officer, Diageo Australia.

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Embrace Difference

THE DRINKS ASSOCIATION’S INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY LUNCH

Industry faces at the International Women’s Day Lunch

Words by Ioni Doherty The Drinks Association’s International Women’s Day Lunch held on March 8, 2022 brought the drinks industry together to inspire and educate, informed by a vision for a better future where gender equity for all is a given. Presented by the Embrace Difference Council, the International Women’s Day event has built extraordinary momentum and desire for diversity and inclusion in our industry. Over the last few years, the lunch has presented inspiring keynotes speakers

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along with panel discussions from industry leaders. This year writer, commentator and media presenter, Catherine McGregor AO, was the keynote speaker. She shared her extraordinary story, from her life in politics, her professional life as a journalist, as a social and political commentator and a soldier in the Australian Army to her gender transition to living life as a woman while serving in the military. This year, The Drinks Association was

proud to partner with charity organisation, Dress for Success whose mission is to empower women to achieve economic independence by providing a network of support, professional attire and the development tools to help women thrive in work and in life. This International Women’s Day, Dress for Success asked Australians to pledge just one hour of their pay to directly help a woman on her path to employment and financial security, for herself and her family.

CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY AWARD Corporate Social Responsibility Award recognises an organisation’s unique initiatives and strategies demonstrating a commitment to socially responsible principles, such as responsible drinking, environmental sustainability or community, charity and corporate values. The award is sponsored by Endeavour Drinks Group.

Presented by Joanne Rose, Chief Marketing Officer, Endeavour Drinks Group.

WINNER Lion.

Australia’s first large scale carbon neutral brewer

HIGHLY COMMENDED Campari Group for the Shaken Not Broken campaign A MESSAGE FROM THE SPONSOR – ENDEAVOUR DRINKS GROUP We are strongly committed to being a workplace that embraces and promotes diversity, and our goal at Endeavour Group is to continue to forge an inclusive environment where women’s careers can thrive, and their achievements are celebrated. International Women’s Day is an important day in our shared commitment and celebration of gender equality.

A MESSAGE FROM THE WINNER – LION AUSTRALIA Australasia’s first large-scale carbon neutral brewer, Lion was awarded the Corporate Social Responsibility Award for 2021 at the Drinks Association’s International Women’s Day lunch hosted at Doltone House on Tuesday, 8 March. Lion’s sustainability strategy is founded

upon one single, simple and allencompassing mantra: “For the long term”. Lion’s Company Secretary and General Counsel, Libby Davidson accepted the award. “This is a real shot in the arm for the team,” she said. “As Australia’s first large-scale carbon neutral brewer it’s always an honour to be recognised for our sustainability efforts. Making a positive impact is built on more than one-off initiatives. We integrate sustainability into the heart of our business and it’s a collaborative effort across all of Lion.” The beers produced across Australasia have been crafted in carbon-neutral breweries since 2020. Lion models its commitment to sustainability from the top down: CEO Stuart Irvine is a founding member of the Australian Climate Leaders Coalition which was established in October 2020. and its commitment to environmental sustainability is in action in Australia, New Zealand and in

the US at New Belgium Brewery. Lion’s corporate social responsibility is modelled at all levels of employment, embraced and endorsed by the workforce at Lion. The business: • Is committed to net zero value chain by 2050 • Has 100 per cent power purchase agreements in place across New South Wales, reducing emissions by more than 15K tonnes • Generates solar energy onsite at XXXX and has installed solar on the rooftop of Little Creatures Geelong • Converts brewery wastewater into biogas • Has made significant investments to improve energy efficient equipment.

Libby Davidson Group General Counsel and Head of External Relations and Sustainability

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Contribution to Industry Awards

MOST IMPROVED GENDER EQUITY AWARD The Most Improved Gender Equity Award finalists have demonstrated improvements in achieving equitable gender workplace composition at both an overall level and in leadership, through the implementation of policies and initiatives creating tangible change in their businesses.

FINALISTS |Pernod Ricard, Brown Forman, Australian Vintage Limited.

WINNER Australian Vintage Limited Presented by Kerry Appathurai, Embrace Difference Council.

MESSAGE FROM THE WINNER – AUSTRALIAN VINTAGE LIMITED

At Australian Vintage Limited we have been on a journey to drive an inclusive and achievement-based culture and today that was most recognised when we won the Most Improved Gender Equity Award at The Drinks Association International Women’s Day Lunch. Our most valuable asset is our people and so we’re extremely proud to have won this award.

Kerry Appathurai, Embrace Difference Council presents award to Anna Kelly, Australian Vintage Limited.

The highly commended team at AVL.

Mark Little and Darren Curtis, Campari Group.

Lion’s Company Director and General Counsel, Libby Davidson and Joanne Rose, CMO, Endeavour Group.

Alison Hinkson and Kerry Appathurai, Lion Australia with Kate Maxwell, Pernod Ricard.

Industry Panel: Emma Baldwin, Jayne Lewis, Craig Laundy ,Bryan Fry.

Georgia Lennon, with Sandra Gibbs, Embrace Difference Council Chair and Christian Campanella, Pernod Ricard.

The highly commended team at Campari Group.

Craig Laundy, Laundy Hotel Group and Bryan Fry, Pernod Ricard.

Jayne Lewis with David Smith, Lion Australia.

Craig Laundy with Suzie Laundy.

Catherine McGregor, Keynote Speaker.

A I N L L T I O S SA

BR I G H T

AR Samuel’s Collection shines a light on a Barossa of a different kind. Taste the vibrance of the vines and enjoy a glass of a lighter, brighter Barossa wine. Embrace the Magnificent Unknown

Contribution to Industry Awards

INCLUSIVE & DIVERSE WORKPLACE AWARD Inclusive & Diverse Workplace Award recognises organisations that prioritise diversity and recognise the value of an inclusive workplace for individuals and their organisations. The award is sponsored by Coles Liquor again this year as it was in 2019.

WINNER Treasury Wine Estates A MESSAGE FROM THE SPONSOR – COLES LIQUOR GROUP I was delighted on behalf of Coles Liquor Group to raise a glass to our drinks industry peers and colleagues at The Drinks Association International Women’s Day Luncheon. Inclusion and diversity are areas which we are very much committed to, through our own Coles Group “Better Together” program. Whilst we celebrate how far we have come, we also recognise how much there is to do. We were very proud to sponsor and present the Inclusive & Diverse Workplace Award. The award is bestowed to organisations that are able to demonstrate excellence in initiatives and strategies, which facilitate a diverse and inclusive workplace including, but not limited to: •Wellbeing initiatives •Flexible work practices •Training and development •Fair and equitable treatment of employees •Corporate values that incorporate cultural change to diversity and inclusion All entries were impressive, and we thank each organisation for taking the time to provide their submissions. The winner, Treasury Wine Estates was particularly outstanding for the work they have done across team engagement, networking for flexibility, employee personal and professional investment initiatives, and their leadership on all aspects of social and corporate responsibility. Congratulations to everyone that submitted and attended today and let’s continue to #breakthebias Mia Lloyd Head of Trade Planning at Coles/ Board Member Women’s Legal Service Victoria

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Sarah Parkes, Sales Director, Treasury Wine Estates with Mia Lloyd, Coles Group.

A MESSAGE FROM THE WINNER – TREASURY WINE ESTATES It was a particularly exciting IWD for us as we found out we won the Most Inclusive & Diverse Workplace Award at the Drinks Association’s IWD’s Luncheon in Sydney. The award is all about initiatives and strategies that facilitate a diverse and inclusive workplace, so it’s exciting to see our TWE DNA efforts in team engagement, flexibility, development programs and CSR being recognised. Thank you, Mia Lloyd and Coles Liquor Group, for presenting and sponsoring the award. Well done to Treasury Wine Estates for the hard work and leadership to make this possible. Steven Burrows Talent Acquisition Manager, Treasury Wine Estates

Women in Beer

BOOTED AND BACK TO WORK THE DRINKS ASSOCIATION’S INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY EVENT SPECIAL GUEST AND PANELLIST, JAYNE LEWIS IS A ‘WOMEN IN THE WORKFORCE’ CHAMPION. TWO BIRDS BREWING, THE BUSINESS SHE CO-FOUNDED WITH DANIELLE ALLEN STRUCK A DEAL TO COMMEMORATE INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY WITH LIQUOR RETAIL HEAVYWEIGHT, DAN MURPHY’S TO GET UNDERPRIVILEGED WOMEN BOOTED AND BACK IN THE WORKFORCE AND TO #BREAKTHEBIAS. Words By Ioni Doherty

All profits from Two Birds Summer Ale sales sold in Dan Murphy’s stores from 24 February – 9 March, went toward GIVIT, a not-for-profit donation platform that works with more than 4,300 support organisations around Australia. Giving women in need a literal foot in the door, monies raised will go to women who can’t afford their own boots but are working in or seeking employment in industries that require them as a safety standard. Eleven years ago, Jayne Lewis and Danielle Allen established Two Birds, Australia’s first female-founded brewery. They are no strangers to the challenges women face entering what’s traditionally considered to be a man’s world. As part of their celebration of IWD 2022, Jayne and Danielle were thrilled to get behind such an empowering initiative. Two Birds co-founder and The Drinks Association’s International Women’s Day event special guest and panellist, Jayne Lewis said, “It really demonstrates the capacity craft beer has to lead the way for equality when it comes to supporting and championing the work of women. “We love the fact that our Summer Ale can help a person on their pathway to employment and hopefully a career doing something that they believe in and aren’t afraid to embrace. It’s really important to us”. Danielle Allen, fellow co-founder, said,

IWD is truly humbling.” Dan Murphy’s Store Manager and West Australian GIVIT Champion, Stacey Tamaki, said. “Dan Murphy’s is strongly committed to an inclusive workplace that embraces and promotes diversity, and International Women’s Day for us is a day to celebrate how far we have come while recognising we still have work to do.” Dan Murphy’s customers can also drop into their local store to make a donation to GIVIT and this cause at any register. Two Birds will also be releasing their fourth iteration of Warrior Woman, a beer specifically designed in celebration of IWD and the social, economic, cultural, and political achievements of women. This year’s Warrior Woman, a Mango and Pineapple Hazy Pale will fly out to

“We love the fact that our Summer Ale can help a person on their pathway to employment and hopefully a career doing something that they believe in and aren’t afraid to embrace. It’s really important to us.” “We were very pleased to be able to include a new element to our IWD campaign this year. Our amazing partners Dan’s already do such great work with GIVIT, and the opportunity to be involved with this foundation to make a real difference this

over 150 venues and bottle shops across Australia, providing the opportunity for Australians to raise a glass to the warrior women in their life and keep the conversations going to #BreakTheBias; which is this year’s global theme.

drinks trade 37

Women in Spirits

CHAMPIONING WOMEN IN SPIRITS with the Australian Women in Distilling Association (AWDA)

Lark Distillery Tasmania

DRINKS TRADE TALKS TO FOUR DISTILLERS CHAMPIONING SPIRIT PRODUCTION AS A CAREER CHOICE FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS OF WOMEN. Kristy Booth-Lark Founder and Distiller, Killara Distillery, Tasmania and President/Founder of Australian Women in Distilling Association Drinks Trade: How did you get your start in the distilling industry? Kristy Booth-Lark: I was lucky enough to grow up in Tasmanian’s first licenced distillery for over 150 years! I had a copper still right outside my bedroom door. I learnt whisky making from Dad and gin and liqueur making from Mum and independently started Killara Distillery in March 2016. Has there been any obstacles in what is considered a male-dominated industry? KBL: I think there are always obstacles in

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starting any business, and I’ve certainly had my fair share while starting and growing Killara. From people not taking me seriously to those that think my Dad does it all for me (he doesn’t!). But for the most part, I think any obstacles can be overcome regardless of being in a male-dominated industry or not. Do women distil better? KBL: I don’t necessarily consider it better; I think women distil differently, which is great. It is well known that women have, for the most part, a better palate, so I think what they bring to the table is complementary to what men are doing. Was there a moment that launched your career?

KBL: For me, it has been a string of small events that have happened over a long period. I haven’t built my career up overnight. One important thing was when I decided that I would not go to Air Traffic Control School. Instead, I decided to follow after my parents and continue the traditions they started and grow on the legacy while putting my spin on it! Is there a woman in liquor, distilling or business you look to for mentoring and advice or admire? KBL: Definitely, my mum! She has an amazing palate and is really clever with understanding how flavours work well together. But I admire all the women in the industry for giving it a go and following their passion. I think it’s admirable to step

outside your comfort zone and follow your dream, whether that be running a cellar door, making gin off-grid on a small NZ island or making rum in the middle of NSW. There are many women I look up to in the industry. What have you learned in the distilling industry, and what advice would you give young women following in your footsteps? KBL: I have learned that you can never stop learning; I am learning new things all the time; it’s one of the things I love about this industry. The advice I would give: don’t be afraid to start, there are many ways to get involved in the industry, though working at a cellar door, production, management. Don’t be put off by anyone and remain true to who you are. If you are passionate about it, then pursue it. Ask questions, knock on doors, do more study and of course, join AWDA. Tell us about your role at the AWDA and what you hope to achieve on behalf of the industry? KBL: I am the president of the AWDA. It started in 2017 because I was sick of many amazing women in the industry not getting any recognition for what they were/ are doing. So instead of grumbling about it and hoping someone else would fix it, I decided to start AWDA. It›s been a journey that I couldn›t have done without the team, and it is very much a team effort. I want to showcase what women are doing in the industry through all areas of spirit production, further educate women in the industry and provide a safe space to grow and nurture their skills. If I›m in a position where I can open a door for someone or give them a leg up, then I want to; I want us all to do that. The industry as a whole can only get better with more women working in the industry; it›s certainly not a big boys club anymore! What is your favourite drink? KBL: It depends on what time of day it is! I love a good glass of brandy/cognac, French 75, or glass of whisky! But my favourite drink is the one I’m having with a friend.

TFW-distillery

Genise Hollingworth Founder and Distiller at BlackGate Distillery, NSW and Treasurer of the Australian Women in Distilling Association.

Genise Hollingworth BlackGate Distillery

How did you get your start in the distilling industry? Genise Hollingworth: Opening a distillery was my husband’s idea. When we started, he was doing all the distilling, and I was helping with the bottling, packaging, book work and holding down a full-time job. Initially, Brian distilled both whisky and rum, but as the years went on, Brian decided he wanted to concentrate on producing whisky. I thought we should still produce rum, so I decided to distil it myself. So I took one day a week off from my full-time job, and Fridays became Rum Day. Brian showed me how to make the rum, and we discussed making a change or two to make it my product, and I haven’t looked back. One day turned to two and

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Women in Spirits

then gradually turned into my full-time occupation.

of advice and help from other distillers when we were setting Ambleside up. The actual distilling was a lot of trial and error – and a lot of tasting spirits! We decided early that we wanted a location where people could meet us and taste our spirits, so my husband, son and I designed and built our Tasting Bar and Distillery on our property in Hahndorf in the Adelaide Hills, and we opened in 2017.

Has there been any obstacles in what is considered a male-dominated industry? GH: I have not felt there have been any obstacles, probably as my husband has been there helping me whenever I’ve needed it. This may be different for other women who haven’t had that same support system or didn’t know who to ask or where to go to ask questions. This is the primary reason why Kristy started up the AWDA. Do women distil better? GH: Women don’t necessarily distil better; however, we tend to have a more sensitive palate for picking different flavours and nuances in a spirit.

Kristy Booth Lark Killara Distillery

Was there a moment that launched your career? GH: There was no one particular moment; it was just a natural progression. Is there a woman in liquor, distilling or business you look to for mentoring and advice or admire? GH: Kristy Booth-Lark and Lynn Lark have been instrumental in getting us to where we are today. These two ladies have been a wealth of knowledge and have been great role models for me and other women in the industry. What have you learned in the distilling industry, and what advice would you give young women following in your footsteps? GH: This is an awesome industry to be involved in, and there are people out there who are willing and ready to help; you just need to ask. Also, when planning your still for your distillery, think big, you can make a small amount of product in a big still, but it takes an awful lot of work to produce a lot in a little still. Tell us about your role at the AWDA and what you hope to achieve on behalf of the industry? GH: I have been the Treasurer of the AWDA since its start-up in 2017. The AWDA aims to promote and encourage

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Trudy Dickson

awareness of women in the distilling industry. To encourage women to seek opportunities within the industry from employment through to upskilling and networking and to offer mentorships and scholarships to fulfil their ambitions. What is your favourite drink? GH: An Espresso Martini made with my Black Gate Rum. Trudy Dickson Founder and Distiller, Ambleside Distillery, SA and Vice President of the Australian Women in Distilling Association. How did you get your start in the distilling industry? Trudy Dickson: The craft distilling industry caught my attention on a trip to the UK, and I did a bit of research around distilling and business planning, and it looked like it could be more than just a hobby, so I jumped in. The distilling industry in Australia is really supportive, and I got a lot

Has there been any obstacles in what is considered a male-dominated industry? TD: Everyone has been great to work with, but it is nice to have a group of women to be able to bounce things off. It’s not intimidating asking someone in the group any kind of question, and the group has a philosophy of a rising tide lifts all ships. Do women distil better? TD: We can certainly hold our own when it comes to doing anything distilling, and so many women have picked up awards for their amazing spirits. They are so creative, passionate and fierce. Women distillers are producing an amazing range of craft spirits in Australia, and it’s great to see more entering the industry. Was there a moment that launched your career? TD: After years of learning, distilling, planning and building the distillery, it was a great relief when we opened the doors to the Tasting Bar for the first time, and people were waiting to come in! Winning our first award was pretty special, and we thought, wow, we can make pretty good spirits! Winning both the Best Gin & The Best Australian Distillery at the Tasting Australia Awards in 2017 was a highlight too. Is there a woman in liquor, distilling or business you look to for mentoring and advice or admire? TD: There are so many amazing women in the industry and the AWDA, and everyone brings something to the group. There are some trailblazing women I respect, and it’s great that women have a voice in the industry. What have you learned in the distilling industry, and what advice would you

give young women following in your footsteps? TD: I’ve learned that nothing stays the same in the distilling industry. Every day is something different and exciting. One of the surprises I’ve had is the support out there from other women in the industry, and it’s quite unique. So, I would recommend to any young women who want to get into distilling to get involved in industry groups and build a good network around you as early as you can. Having that support might save you a heap of time, mistakes and money!

the industry since have sometimes felt more comfortable talking to other females when it comes to advice. It was for this reason that the AWDA was formed. It is an association formed by women in the Industry for women in the industry and I am so proud of what the organisation has achieved in supporting some amazing new talent. Do women distil better? KS: There are some very talented female distillers in the industry. I think part of what makes us successful is that we have a sensitive palate for flavours and scent.

Tell us about your role at the AWDA and what you hope to achieve on behalf of the industry? TD: I’m the Vice President of the AWDA, and I’m keen to help more women become world-leading spirit producers through education and mentoring programs. I’m also passionate about advocacy and regulatory issues, including seeing a stop to the six-monthly CPI excise tax increases holding back industry investment and growth. We’re in a regional location like many other distilleries across Australia, so it’s great to see the benefits our industry can bring to local towns and districts. Helping to support regional economies through the industry is important.

Was there a moment that launched your career? KS: There was never really an exact moment. Just lots and lots of hard work. Winning our first silver medal at the London Spirits Competition and our first gold medal at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards.

Kylie Sepos Founder and Distiller, Farmer’s Wife Distillery, Tasmania and Secretary at the Australian Women in Distilling Association.

As a gin and whisky lover, our itinerary of course included visiting a long list of distilleries in Tassie to try to find a new perfect gin… I had never been to a distillery before and thought that they would be big factories. But here were these talented distillers, producing these amazing spirits in these tiny sheds. They were taking these gorgeous regional ingredients and producing something unique and special and the more distilleries I visited, the more I fell in love with the magic of craft distilling. This was my ‘what it?’ moment. After realising there were very few educational avenues to learn the art of distilling in Australia I decided to teach myself. Fortunately, I had studied science at University so I had a good basis to start from. After about two years of research and another trip to Tasmania to complete a course at Redlands Distilling school I decided to take a giant leap of faith and I ordered my beautiful Knapp Lewer Still.

How did you get your start in the distilling industry? Kylie Sepos: It was on a trip to Tasmania about 5 years ago, that I fell in love with the idea of craft distilling. As anyone that has been to Tasmania knows, it is very easy to fall in love with the food, wines and the simply amazing artisan produce they have down there.

Has there been any obstacles on what is considered a male dominated industry? KS: I think women are very fortunate to work in an industry that is very collaborative. As a female entering the industry, I was so grateful for the help and advice that was so happily offered to me from both women and men in the industry. I am very aware that other females entering

What is your favourite drink? TD: Love a Martini. My son Matt’s Big Dry Gin distilled with Jalapeño chilli makes an amazing Martini. Just a splash of ice-cold Vermouth and a few Sicilian olives, and you’re good to go!

Is there a woman in liquor, distilling or business you look to for mentoring and advice or admire? KS: Genise Hollingworth from Blackgate Distillery. From the moment we met her and her husband Brian, they have been the most amazing support to my husband and I as we navigate our way in this industry. What have you learned in the distilling industry, and what advice would you give young women following in your footsteps? KS: My biggest advice to anyone entering this industry is to make sure you understand your why! Bring something new or different to the category, figure out what will make you different. After that I would strongly advise joining the AWDA! Tell us about your role at the AWDA and what you hope to achieve on behalf the industry? KS: I have been the secretary of the AWDA now for three years. My hope is that the AWDA continues to grow and that it continues to promote and encourage the growth of women in the industry in all stages of their journey. What is your favourite drink? KS: A Negroni!

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International Women’s Day

TWO WOMEN IN DRINKS Diversity and Inclusion at Australian Liquor Marketers

DRINKS TRADE TALKS TO TWO STRAIGHT-TALKING, HARD-WORKING AND CAREER SUCCESSFUL WOMEN AT ALM, KATHERINE JOHNSTONE, GENERAL MANAGER OF NSW/ACT AND LINDA BOSWELL, GENERAL MANAGER OF WESTERN AND CENTRAL REGION, ABOUT THE REWARDS AND CHALLENGES OF BEING A WOMAN IN TODAY’S LIQUOR INDUSTRY. What have you learned in the industry, and what advice would you give young women following in your footsteps?

Drinks Trade: How did you get your start in the liquor industry? Katherine Johnstone: I came into the Liquor Industry from Blackmores as a National Business Manager for Woolworths for Campari Linda Boswell: I was working for CCA in WA when we took on the joint venture with SAB Miller and soon after integrated Maxxium in the CCA Business. Was there a moment that launched your career? KJ: A key stepping stone was the mentoring program for Women’s in Drinks; being part of the program, I expanded my network, which provided me with the confidence to move further into a senior leadership role in the industry. LB: Not a particular moment for me, however being a retailer’s daughter FMCG was an industry familiar to me from a young age. How has working with other talented women in the industry impacted your career journey? KJ: We both feel it is only recently that we have worked together on the ALM

Katherine Johnstone and Linda Boswell (right)

Leadership team that we can break down an unconscious bias, which we have both previously experienced in other roles. Is there a businesswoman in the industry or not you look to for mentoring and advice or admire?

KJ: We both mentor and coach other women in our business and the wider industry, and our first key insight is back yourself. LB: We find it very rewarding and a privilege to mentor other women in our industry, and for us, it is a great way to give back, as when we were moving through our career, there were not many platforms or women to mentor the next generation of leaders. What is your favourite drink? KJ: It is hard to name and depends on the occasion, but you can’t beat a cold glass of Pinot Grigio. LB: Champagne is always a must to start an occasion; however, Hendricks, for me, is my go-to.

LB: We feel finding the right mentor is not about gender; you need to look for someone you are comfortable being vulnerable with; we have both experienced great connections with both male and female leaders in the Metcash Business and Liquor Industry. KJ: It is great to see many young women now working their way through the industry.

drinks trade 43

The Savvy Report

Wine in Australia :

STILL THE TASTE OF THE WORLD? While Australian wine is considered among some of the best in the world, in the last several years the industry has faced significant negative impacts from the pandemic, freight disruptions and international tariffs on Australian exports. Despite this, annual revenue growth projections for the 2022-2027 period are positive. Savvy’s report performs a deep dive into the latest figures to shed light on the current state of the wine industry in Australia. • $6.9 billion in revenue as of September 2021 • $409.8 million profit in 2021 • -8.2% profit growth 2017-2022 • 2.5% projected revenue growth for 20222027 • 14,754 people employed in wine industry • Trend towards higher premium wine output has supported industry The great novelist Ernest Hemingway once wrote that “wine is the most civilised

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thing in the world” and it’s no wonder that almost every nation on Earth makes wine – and drinks it. Australian wine is considered among some of the best in the world. Savvy’s interpretation of the latest data finds the size of the industry certainly underpins that fact, taking in A$6.9 billion in revenue as of September 2021. However, during the COVID-19 pandemic and other internationally led factors, growth and profits from the Australian wine industry dipped. This can be explained by tariffs imposed by our largest export destination, China, as well as consumption habits and government restrictions. So, is Australian wine still the taste of the world? Do we drink as much wine as we export? Where are all the wineries in Australia? Which sector of the industry profits most? What will happen to Australian wine in the future? We answer all that and more in our comprehensive overview of the Australian wine industry in 2022.

SIZE OF THE INDUSTRY According to IBISWorld, the Australian wine industry is worth $6.9 billion, taking in $409.8 million in profits as of the final quarter of 2021. This represents a 5.9% profit margin for producers and wineries. In terms of how wine impacts the broader Australian economy, the wine industry generated $1.1b in wages, spread out across 14,754 employees and 1,954 businesses. The overall annual profit growth of the market has been negative however at -8.2% between 2017-2022. Annualised growth in terms of revenue over 2017-2022 showed a dip of 0.6%, while projections show annual growth over 20222027 to increase by 2.5%. There is no far-and-away dominant winery or wine producer in Australia – minor players comprise almost two-thirds share of market revenue (65.7%) with the top wineries in Australia being Treasury Wine Estates (13.5%), Casella Family Brands (7.7%) and Pernod Ricard Australia (7%.)

ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION IN AUSTRALIA The method of Alcohol consumption in Australia was turned upside down during the COVID-19 pandemic – due to the extended shutdown of pubs, clubs, and other venues where alcohol was served. However, the volume of consumption stagnated. According to the Foundation for Alcohol Research and Education, the same proportion of people drank more or less than previously (17%). 38% of people selfreported that their consumption stayed the same. This also hews with the IBIS report, showing per-capita alcohol consumption staying the same over 2017-2022. The ABS reports that pure alcohol consumption in wine per capita narrowed the gap between beer as of 2017-18, with 3.67L of alcohol in wine consumed vs 3.71L in beer. The widest gap was last seen in 1973-74, with 2.05L of wine consumed per capita versus a whopping 9.18L of beer.

WINERIES AND WINE REGIONS IN AUSTRALIA Australia has over 60 designated wine regions, with most of them clustered in South Australia, famous for its rich and fertile south-east: Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Coonawarra, Eden Valley and Adelaide Hills. Victoria has the next highest proportion, followed by New South Wales, Western Australia, Queensland, and Tasmania. SA and Victoria have the best climates for wine production in Australia, considered a “Mediterranean” analogue.

SUPPLY CHAIN OF WINE The key sellers of wine production are grape growers, fruit and vegetable processors, flour and grain manufacturing, paperboard makers, and glass and glass product manufacturing. These comprise the ingredients and packaging for wines. Other considerations for wine making include nursery production, livestock, and agricultural supplies to ensure healthy grape growth, and chemical product wholesaling. Wine gets to us through large liquor wholesalers – while the second tier is comprised of direct-to-consumer retail sales such as casinos, hotels, retailers, and hospitality venues.

RED VS WHITE WINE Red wine production leads the way in the Australian wine industry, comprising 59.5% of all products, followed by white wine on 32.2%. Cider accounts for 4% of production, and other wines and alcoholic beverages on 4.3%.

The highest proportion of wine was direct from the United Kingdom (22.9%) while other countries (excluding the US, Hong Kong, and Canada) was the highest share of imports at 35.9%. These countries include New Zealand, France, Italy, Spain, and select South American nations.

WHO IN AUSTRALIA DRINKS WINE?

WHO IN THE WORLD DRINKS WINE?

According to IBISWorld, people with higher disposable income usually drink wine, as it’s considered a premium, non-essential product. Wine demand has also increased, particularly white wine among young female drinkers. Wine consumption is also moderated by health concerns: wine is often used as a digestive or sleeping aid by some people; beer and ‘hard’ liquors are often seen as unhealthy. Though we produce a lot of wine ourselves, we imported $928.2 million worth of wine from around the world.

According to Wine Australia in the year ended December 2021, Australian exporters shipped wine to 112 markets, compared with 114 the year before. IBISWorld reported that exports amounted to $2.3 billion. Export markets account for 32.5% of market share of Australian wine by revenue in 2021-22. By comparison, Wine Australia states that Australia exports 59% of all wine produced. The top three markets by value were the United Kingdom ($453 million, down 1%), the United States ($403 million, down 7%),

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The Savvy Report

and Hong Kong SAR ($192 million, up 45%). The top three markets by volume were also the United Kingdom, buying 243 million litres; the United States 125 million litres; and Canada 47 million litres. Nations participating in the TransPacific Partnership (signed in 2018) will also increase opportunities as tariffs are gradually reduced over time.

CHINA WINE EMBARGO – WHAT HAPPENED TO AUSTRALIAN WINE EXPORTS? Since 2016, China has been the largest export market for Australian wines. However, due to political manoeuvring and disagreements, China began a campaign of scaling back Australian trade on key goods such as coal, barley, meat, and of course, wine. In December 2020, the Chinese Government imposed “anti-dumping” sanctions on Australian wine, amounting to tariffs in excess of 100% - in some cases, double that number. This left wine producers scrambling to find new buyers for approximately $1.26 billion worth of wine. According to a statement by Wine Australia, “exports to mainland China declined by 97 per cent in value to $29 million and by 93 per cent in volume to 6.4 million litres, a loss of nearly $1 billion in value and 90 million litres in volume, when compared to the 2020 calendar year where shipments were free from tariffs for most of the year.” Though a total of 63 million litres were shipped in December 2021 – the largest month for exports since the big slump in October 2020 – was still the lowest volume shipped within a 12-month period since the year ended September 2004. Further complications arose during 2020-21 due to the global supply chain crisis, where sea shipping costs rose over 150% over previous years.

WHO PROFITS MOST FROM WINE SALES IN AUSTRALIA? The major market segmentation for wine is major retailers such as Coles or Woolworths (28.1%), domestic wholesalers (22.5%) and

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other markets (16.9%). Market concentration in Australian wine is low, with the four major Australian wine producers taking up a 34.3% share of industry revenue in 2021-22. The four major producers are Treasury Wine Estates Ltd. with a market share of 13.5%. They produce some of Australia’s most premium brands including Penfolds, Wolf Blass, Lindeman’s, and Rosemount Estate. Casella Wines Pty. Ltd. shares 7.7% of the market and makes wines such as Yellow Tail and Casella 1919. Yellow Tail has performed well in the United States due to its unique and aggressive “Blue Ocean” strategy of marketing. Pernod Ricard Pacific Holdings has a 7% market share and is the subsidiary of French luxury spirits and wine group Pernod Ricard SA. They own the respected brands of Jacob’s Creek, I am George, and St Hugo. The fourth of the “Big 4 of Australian wine” is Amphora Australia with a 6.1% share. Underneath the “Big 4” are mediumsized wine companies including Australian Vintage Limited (4% share) and De Bortoli Wines. Smaller producers include Zilzie Wines, Kingston Estate Wines and Tyrrell’s Wines. According to Bill Tsouvalas, finance expert and founder of Savvy, “While the fundamentals of the wine business remain good, the industry has really been impacted by first the China trade tariffs and now the ongoing pandemic. This has been reflected in the decline in business equipment

lending we’ve seen in that sector, compared say to the craft beer market, where producers are increasing in number and expanding production capacity. This may have as much to do with the comparative maturity of the industry - Australian wine producers have been established much longer and probably now have excess production capacity.”

THE FUTURE OF AUSTRALIAN WINE PRODUCTION Wine production is considered part of the Traditional Service Economy – combining labour and goods to create products for consumption. Wine production is exposed to threats by disruptive innovation – the cost of entering the market may be lowered by new innovations and the rate of innovation. However, smaller players are unlikely to unseat the “Big 4” wine producers as the wine industry is a highly concentrated market. Wine has only seen moderate revenue volatility over the past five years – mostly due to unforeseen geopolitical circumstances. The Wine production industry also receives moderate industry assistance to increase Australian competitiveness and a wine equalisation tax introduced in 2000 to support smaller wineries in Australia. Industry data shows that revenue will increase year on year until 2027, with 2023 showing an increase of $279 million. With a global and local taste for wine, Australian wine production has its best years ahead. FOR THE FULL REPORT VISIT SAVVY.COM.AU

A Drinks Trade Promotion

At Duxton Vineyards

SUSTAINABILITY AND SUCCESS Euston Vineyards

Go Hand-in-Hand

AUSTRALIAN AGRICULTURE CONTRIBUTES TO APPROXIMATELY 13% OF NATIONAL GREENHOUSE GAS EMISSIONS. ALTHOUGH DUXTON VINEYARDS IS ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST GRAPE PRODUCERS - PRODUCING AROUND 6% OF AUSTRALIA’S TOTAL GRAPE SUPPLY - THE COMPANY HAS MADE SUSTAINABILITY A CORE MISSION SINCE ITS INCEPTION IN 2015. NOW, DUXTON VINEYARDS IS REAPING THE BENEFITS WITH A SUITE OF TRAILBLAZING INITIATIVES, INNOVATIVE TECH, AND REGENERATIVE FARMING PRACTICES THAT DELIVER TANGIBLE, POSITIVE IMPACTS FOR THE ENVIRONMENT WHILE ALSO SUCCESSFULLY GROWING THEIR BUSINESS.

CERTIFIED SUSTAINABLE

The fact that Duxton Vineyards is the largest certified vineyard member of Sustainable Winegrowing Australia is a testament that they’re in it for the long haul. Modelled on global best practices and aligned to the United Nation’s Sustainable Development Goals, the new certification achieved by Duxton Vineyards Wayne Ellis recognises thought leadership in sustainable practice. Duxton Vineyards Managing Director Wayne Ellis and the wider Duxton Vineyards team have worked hard for this certification. “Being a business of our size in the agriculture space, it is both ethically and morally the right thing to do, to live and breathe sustainability, the overall goal

being to reduce our environmental footprint. This includes a focus on reducing carbon emissions, being more efficient with energy and water and reducing our waste to landfill,” says Ellis. “We recognise that our vast landholdings pose a real opportunity to remove large amounts of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere through revegetation to soil carbon sequestration. This is what’s driving us to look at offsetting our existing footprint and hopefully do even better than this.” Duxton Vineyards is not resting on this new certification as a box-ticking exercise either, with Wayne commenting how sustainability is a core mission and strategic driver for the business, stemming from a deep underlying passion in this space at both a board and senior management level. “Being a business of our size in the agriculture industry, it is both ethically and morally the right thing to do, to live and breathe sustainability, with the overall goal to reduce our environmental footprint.

This includes a focus on reducing carbon emissions, being more efficient with energy and water and reducing our waste to landfill,” continues Wayne.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR DUXTON VINEYARDS?

Since its foundation in 2015, Duxton Vineyards has expanded to become a vertically integrated wine enterprise located in the Mildura and Sunraysia region. The company continues to take sustainability one leap further and embark on a suite of innovative activities in 2022 and beyond. “At Duxton, we aim to raise the industry bar for sustainability. We want to actively do something to better the climate, to make a positive impact as a grower and producer. We have a clear roadmap to achieve this, and as part of this, we are gearing up to launch a new brand called Rewild this year with a genuine focus on sustainable wine production and packaging. Watch this space.”

To collaborate or get in touch with Duxton Vineyards, you can contact the team on +61 3 5033 1322 and at enquiries@duxtonvineyards.com.au

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Shiraz

The Many Faces of

SHIRAZ

Shiraz has become Australia’s favourite adopted black grape, indeed, it is Australia’s most planted variety. It loves our warm, dry climate. Australia’s first expressions of Shiraz were known as Hermitage after the elegant Shiraz wines of the Northern Rhone, Grange Hermitage for example now simply known as Grange. It first came to

our shores in 1831 and is now grown in 25 different wine regions across the country. We have a love affair with Shiraz and make a damn good drop. Australian Shiraz has many faces which is determined by where it is grown and produced. It is a grape highly expressive of its terroir. It can be rich, full-bodied and

textural like the Shiraz of the Barossa Valley or spicy and peppery like a cool climate Heathcote Shiraz. Shiraz wines are as diverse as the regions producing it stretching from one coast to the next. Here we celebrate the best of the best Shiraz wines from iconic Shiraz regional shows plus the Sydney and Melbourne Royals.

TROPHY WINNING SHIRAZ FROM 2021 AND 2020 WINE SHOWS

BAROSSA WINE SHOW 2021 Saltram 2018 No 1 Shiraz The Greenock Trophy - Best 2018 or older Shiraz The AP John Coopers Trophy - Best Shiraz The Seguin Moreau Trophy - Best Red Wine The Orora Beverage Trophy - Best Barossa Wine

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MARGARET RIVER WINE SHOW 2021

YARRA VALLEY WINE SHOW 2020

Stella Bella Shiraz 2020

Oakridge Wines Vineyard Series Oakridge Shiraz 2019

Fusion Electrical Trophy - Best Shiraz

The Laffort Trophy - Benchmark Shiraz

HEATHCOTE WINE SHOW 2021

HUNTER VALLEY WINE SHOW 2021

Devils Cave Vineyard 2019 Shiraz

De Iuliis Wines 2019 Limited Release Shiraz

Interpack Trophy - Best Shiraz

Doug Seabrook Memorial Trophy - Best Red Wine of the Show

MELBOURNE RYAL WINE AWARDS

ROYAL SYDNEY WINE SHOW 2021

Fallen Giants 2019 Shiraz

Sutton Grange Estate 2018 Syrah

Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy – Best Young Red

Dr Gilbert Phillips Memorial Perpetual Trophy – Best Red

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Vintage 2022 Report

FROM WA TO SA - MUSINGS ON VINTAGE 2022

MARGARET RIVER VINTAGE

CLARE VALLEY VINTAGE

By Jeff Burch, Howard Park Wines.

By Mitchell Taylor, Taylors Wines.

Despite the challenges, the last 12 months have still been one to remember here at Howard Park. Our new Chief Winemaker, Nic Bowen completed his first year in the winery; we expanded our vineyard sites to include two well-established Chardonnay vineyards and the growth of our viticulture team to welcome Stephen Kirby. The start of vintage here at the winery is always actionpacked and full of anticipation. At these early stages, we discover what we can expect from the wines from the 2022 harvest. The consensus so far is that even though yield has been lower than average, the quality of fruit we are seeing gives us great hope that this vintage will result in outstanding wines from both the Margaret River and Great Southern regions. Picking has now commenced in Northern Margaret River, and from what we can tell, it will be a great vintage. The weather has been very good to us with lots of sunshine. The team has been hard at work maintaining the canopies to protect the fruit from sunburn. We’ve had an abundance of blossoms that have kept the birds away, preventing any bird damage to the precious fruit. The fruit so far is clean, ripe, and retaining its bright acidity, so it’s looking like a great vintage. Yields are below average due to the cold weather back in October at the time of flowering, but such is life in the field of winemaking! There is still a long way and many long days ahead for the team, but we are encouraged so far and expecting some stand out wines from the 2022 vintage in the Margaret River. In the Great Southern, vintage 2022 will start later than usual due to a cool spring and start to summer. Veraison has begun with our Pinot Noir, and our Chardonnay is just starting to pick up its rich and pure greengold colour. The weather has been very dry so far this year, and we hope that trend continues until late April.

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Well, vintage has officially started here in the Clare Valley, albeit a bit slowly. While it’s still early days, the outlook for fruit quality is excellent. Aside from a frost or two during winter and a rainy January, the conditions and weather have set us up well over the last 12 months for an incredibly promising vintage 2022. The wet winter provided great soil moisture levels, vine health and yield potential. Spring bought a dry September and wet November, which helped the vines grow with vigour and reduced the need for supplementary irrigation. Considering the La Nina weather pattern, December was relatively dry, and there were only two days when the temperatures exceeded 35°C. This was followed by an unusually wet January with almost double the long-term average monthly rainfall for the month, pushing back ripening and colour development by two weeks. Over the last few weeks leading into harvest, the weather gods have been kind, with mild conditions prevailing as vintage commences. So far, we have received just over 650 tonnes of fruit into the winery. The first grapes to come into the winery were Chardonnay on the 4th of February, followed by a special Valentine’s gift of pinot grigio on the 14th, followed by pinot noir. Our vineyard team has given the harvesters a run – picking some Pinot Gris from the St. Andrews vineyard. The cellar hands have the winery in tip-top condition and are raring to get stuck into the sticky work of vintage. We expect vintage to be in full swing by the start of March, with the winery going into a 24-hour operation cycle to process the fruit and manage the tanks. It’s so exciting to see the glow of the harvesters in the field at night and the winery lights, as the team works hard in what is the first and most important step to crafting our award-winning wines here at Taylor’s.

A Drinks Trade Promotion

eBev THRIVES IN POST-PANDEMIC ENVIRONMENT It’s been a big year for eBev, Australia’s largest independent beverage ordering platform. Despite the Covid hardships much of the industry has faced, the eBev Trade platform still facilitates over $150 Million of annual, nationwide wholesale orders across all beverage categories. With a $2 Million capital raise in July 2021, followed by a $10 Million dynamic financing solution which will support up to $100 Million in orders, thereby closing the gap between suppliers selling goods and getting paid, the business is looking strong to support the industry as a whole. We spoke with Ian Harris eBev’s CEO on what’s coming as the country looks to emerge from Covid’s effects.

Other than what’s been in the news, what else is happening at eBev? We’ve been building out both our internal team with a new Head of Product and Technology and an ASX experienced CFO. We’ve also been busy refining the platform to support a huge array of products and suppliers that our nationwide buyers demand. We now have over 750 suppliers on the platform representing over 10,000 brands and 65,000 products from spirits, to non-alcoholic, kegged beer to wine, which is where we started back in 2015. What recent features are you particularly proud of in the platform? We’ve always made sure our platform is there to facilitate simple and quick ordering for our buyers, but we’ve been extending

our integrations into hospitality POS, supplier accounting systems such as Xero, and key beverage specific software many of our suppliers use such as Vinsight and Unleashed. The reduction of multiple data entry for both suppliers and buyers is a huge timesaver and over time builds out considerable resource savings for a business. What do you see as the most powerful use of eBev in the Beverage ordering space? eBev really is a tool connecting Australia’s producers and distributors to the buyer, either in the on or off trade. We remove barriers to sale such as credit apps, invoicing, credit checking and following up on payments. As a supplier you know that once credit checked, often within 30 minutes, you’ll get paid within 3 days of making the sale. That alone gives peace of mind and removes the elephant in the room about money. Suppliers can get on with building relationships, showing product and ultimately make the sale. It’s also a big plus for our buyers as they can trial products from any of our eBev Trade suppliers without further credit apps or interference from us. Our mantra is to empower and simplify wholesale beverage ordering, and these features hold true to our objective. TO SEE HOW EBEV CAN STREAMLINE YOUR BUSINESS VISIT EBEV.COM

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Beer

PALE INTO SIGNIFICANCE Pale Ales, Summer Ales and Extra Pale Ales

IF YOU’VE VENTURED INTO A BAR OR BOTTLE SHOP RECENTLY, YOU WOULD KNOW THE PLETHORA OF BRANDS AND STYLES AVAILABLE IN BEER, A WELCOME CHANGE OF VARIETY FROM JUST A DECADE AGO, BUT WITH NEW STYLES, NAMES AND DESCRIPTORS, THEY CAN BE HARD TO NAVIGATE FOR THE UNSUSPECTING NOVICE BEER HUNTER. Words by Ian Kingham

While lagers and pilseners still make up in excess of seventy percent of consumption, the category of pale ales has grown considerably and as the only recognised Australian founded style globally (out of an excess of seven hundred), the Australian Pale Ale has its place firmly in the fridge of many Australians.

Australian Pale Ale, American Pale Ale and English Pale Ale but the emergence of Summer Ales and Extra Pale Ales is on the rise. Traditional Australian Pale Ales start with Coopers and other brands are ultimately interpretations and product

SO WHAT ARE THE KEY PALE ALE VARIETIES IN AUSTRALIA? Pale ales offer a variety of malts that present a richer and more complex flavour to the body of the beer. Malt gives body and character which depending on the brewer’s choice of recipe will determine the variety in colour and intensity of the palate. Hop additions are added to provide aroma and bitterness to balance malt sweetness. Different yeast strains can create different fermentation characteristics, but ultimately flavour is derived from the choice of malt and hops. The three most popular styles of ale in Australia today are the traditional

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Richard Adamson, Young Henry’s

variations that should express good malt character and have varying degrees of Australian hop character. Pale Ales are relatively uncomplicated as a style and offer more flavour over refreshment. The use of Australian hops gives good tropical fruit notes on aroma and palate. The use of “Citra” hops imparts flavours more synonymous with orange citrus and are highly influential in American style Pale Ales, where English style Pale Ales have a higher malt influence. Richard Adamson from Young Henry’s says “The traditional Australian Pale Ale remains king of the Pale Ales”, and he believes “Pale Ales still have a lot of growth” citing the success of Young Henry’s Newtown a 100% Australian Pale Ale as a great example, which continues to grow from strength to strength as their flagship brand. Richard advises “More fruit, Dryer malt and Lower Bitterness is what is making the style so successful” and is what is also “driving the trend toward the increase in Summer Ales and XPA’s”

SO WHAT ARE SUMMER ALES AND EXTRA PALE ALES (XPA)? Summer Ales originate in Cologne (Kolsch) and are ales that use predominantly pale malt and have a lighter, more lager-like refreshment to them. They use much lower levels of bittering hops and focus more on aromatic hops for aroma and flavour. They offer a nice bridge between Lager and Pale Ale with better refreshment cues than traditional pale ales and more flavour than traditional lagers. A style that is easy drinking and not too challenging that opens itself to a wider audience of consumers. Extra Pale Ales have an even higher concentration of aromatic hops, making them “Extra” fruity and aromatic. Tropical fruit character and hints of guava, citrus, lychee and paw paw are often evident. Don’t be overawed by cloudiness in a beer, it is flavour in suspension. Michael Capaldo, National Sales Manager of Hop Products Australia (HPA), advises that “brewers are changing brewing techniques to incorporate using whirlpool’s and dry hoppers to increase hop additions later in the process at lower temperatures to reduce the bitterness”. “The surge in Aromatic Hop sales at Hop Products Australia has lead to increased plantings as brewers move away from bittering hops to varieties such as “Mosaic”, “Eclipse” and “Galaxy”, rather than using bittering hops.” Michael says. Both Michael and Richard agree that the trend for Pale Ales currently is replacing perceived malt sweetness with dryer, more complex aromatic beers. There is no doubt that we love a beer in Australia, but we are trading quantity for quality. Well-made, wellbalanced beers that offer qualities of flavour and refreshment are clearly the order of the day. With our warmer climate and growing thirst for variety, these styles are a must. When you find a beer you like, take note of the style description and if it’s a beer you love you can always search the

brewer’s website or look up the style to understand the beer better. The choice of beer to accompany different food can make a huge difference also so be mindful, that like wine, different beers suit different occasions.

There is no doubt that we love a beer in Australia, but we are trading quantity for quality. Well-made, well-balanced beers that offer qualities of flavour and refreshment are clearly the order of the day.

Michael Capaldo, National Sales Manager of Hop Products Australia

It is often advisable to read any brewer’s notes on the packaging that can help discern varieties, explain flavour attributes and share product awareness. Hopefully, by having a greater understanding of styles we can feel like buying beer is no longer a lottery but a choice of preference. Information is readily available on products and on the web, so enjoy the journey.

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Craft Beer

Craft Beer Share of Throat Continues to Rise A RECENT REPORT FROM ONLINE FINANCIAL BROKER SAVVY HAS REVEALED THAT WHILE AUSTRALIANS CONTINUE TO DRINK LESS BEER OVERALL, CRAFT BEER CONSUMPTION AS A PORTION OF THE MARKET HAS CONTINUED TO GO UP. Like all offshoots of the hospitality industry, the craft beer industry was equally affected during the COVID-19 pandemic; hospitality was often the first to close and the last to open (even at full capacity) during any lockdown announcement. Though lovers of craft beer could still order their favourite bottles or cans online or at retailers, what effect did it have on the industry as a whole? Was there a big dip in craft beer production? Where are the craft breweries in Australia, and what lies ahead for the industry as a whole?

OVERVIEW OF BEER PRODUCTION IN AUSTRALIA According to a report by Statista titled Craft Beer in Australia, Australia is the far away leader in beer production in the Oceania region, producing 16,580 thousand hectolitres (1000 x 100L) in 2020. Compare this to New Zealand, producing 2,930 thousand hectolitres. The total direct economic contribution from beer production was $4.6 billion nationally in 2018; Queensland was the state with the highest contribution at $1.76 billion.

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The craft beer industry in Australia has been going from strength to strength over the past two years, as microbreweries capture a modest but ever-increasing portion of the overall beer market, according to Savvy’s latest report. • 17.7% growth in total craft beer revenue • 14.1% share of total beer revenue held by craft breweries • Most brewers produce up to 100,000 litres per year • 39% of consumers spend $26-$50 per week & 33% spend up to $100

SOURCE: Statista, Craft beer in Australia, 2021, Savvycom.au - 2022

GROWTH OF THE INDEPENDENT BREWERY The independent craft brewery industry has seen steady growth according to a recent report by Independent Brewing Australia, experiencing a 17.7% growth

in revenue from 2019 to 2020 and increasing its share of total beer revenue by 14.1%. A majority of brewers produce 1 to 100,000 litres per year, with the next biggest group producing between 100,000 and 700,000 litres.

BEER SALES IN PUBS AND CLUBS HIT HARD DURING COVID-19 PANDEMIC According to the Alcohol Beverages Australia association, 441,400 jobs were lost in the hospitality industry over 20202021, following $8.5 billion in lost sales – or 10% of their annual sales. This represented a third (33.4%) of the entire hospitality workforce. Beer volumes fell by 44%, with smaller producers (usually, but not always, craft brewers) reporting volume losses of over 70%. Major beer, wine and spirits companies experienced a 15.5% workforce decline in April of 2020. The report also showed that after the “panic” phase of the pandemic passed after April/May of 2020, the short uptick in “stocking the cabinet” (21.4%) was followed by a slump (2.9%). According to the Australian Bureau of Statistics, four in five (85.6%) Australians were drinking responsibly during the lockdowns or extended restrictions. Smaller producers, usually reliant on tourists or local patrons, were hit particularly hard. Some distillers – that produce grain alcohol – pivoted toward selling hand sanitiser. Breweries that have no capacity for distillation could not do so.

ARE AUSSIES DRINKING LESS BEER THAN PREVIOUS GENERATIONS? In 2018, the average alcohol consumption of an Australian adult was three standard drinks or eight standard drinks over the course of a week, according to the Australian Bureau of Statistics. In terms of beer consumption in terms of litres, that means

3.71 litres of beer per capita. Contrast this to our parents’ generation, where peak consumption occurred in 1973 with a staggering 9.18 litres of beer consumed per capita. The rise in consumption may be partially explained by increased excise on spirits during the 1960s and 70s and a decline of locally distilled spirits due to trade liberalisation. The end of the 1960s also spelled the abolition of the “six o’clock swill” in which pubs and bars were forced to close at 6pm. The “swill” meant workers had only one hour (minus travel time) to consume as much beer as possible before the bar closed. Once abolished, this allowed patrons to

drink greater quantities over a longer period of time. Excise on alcohol has also increased over time, as has the price of beer – the retail price index of alcoholic beverages was 14.1% higher in 2019 compared to 2012. In terms of per capita consumption per year in litres, Australians consumed 4.41 litres of light (low alcohol) beer, 18.75 litres of mid-strength beer, and 64.4 litres of full-strength beer during the financial year ending 2018.

WHERE ARE THE BREWERIES? According to the Statista report, most independent breweries are in New South Wales, with 114 breweries. This is

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Craft Beer

followed by Victoria on 93, Queensland on 57, and South Australia on 33. Western Australia boasts 30 breweries, Tasmania 19 breweries, and the territories three each. There are seven more breweries planned for development in NSW, three each in Queensland and Victoria, and one each in NT, Tasmania, and South Australia.

WHO IS DRINKING CRAFT BEER IN AUSTRALIA? According to Statista, the distribution of craft beer drinkers closely follows the population distribution of Australia – most drinkers are found on the Eastern Seaboard and scattered throughout the other less populous states. However, your average craft beer drinker will likely be a (bearded) male between the age of 30-39 years of age – 79% of men are craft beer drinkers compared to 21% of women; with 39% of 30-39s and 26% of 4049s taking up the lion’s share of craft beer drinking. Most craft beer drinkers have been doing so for at least 3-5 years (30%) with 26% saying they’ve been ¬drinking for 26% or more. This indicates that craft beer is far from a fad, with only 2% saying they’ve taken to the drop for less than a year.

POST-SWILLONOMICS – THE ECONOMICS OF CRAFT BEER IN AUSTRALIA The market share of non-major breweries in Australia are split between the premium, mainstream, and discount markets. According to market research by Asahi compiled by Statista, in the premium market, non-majors account for a 35% market share. In the mainstream, nonmajors take up 14% - no small feat since the market is dominated by Asahi (51%),

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who owns Carleton United Breweries and Kirin group (35%), who owns Lion Nathan breweries. Craft breweries only take up 1% of the discount market – considering craft brewing is a premium product, this isn’t an anomaly. The average weekly spend on beer in Australia is clustered in the $26-$50 range (39%) and the $51-$100 range (33%). As for the leading beer styles, a Statista survey of 17,000 craft beer drinkers showed that 88% of respondents preferred Pale Ale or XPA (extra pale ale) followed by India Pale Ale or double IPA (IIPA) at 84%. New England IPA was next at 65%, Amber or red ale at 63%, and Stout or imperial stout at 61%. Sour beers were the least favoured, though commanded a respectable 48% preference. As for the changes in how often craft beer drinkers buy their hoppy concoctions, most preferred to buy online – online sales saw an 18% increase during the COVID-19 panic period (April-May 2020) while takeaways from breweries saw a 4% increase. Most quaffers of craft beer buy weekly from mainstream liquor stores, with around 80-85% preferring to buy from those outlets. Similar proportions of people buy with the same frequency – roughly the same numbers buy weekly, fortnightly, or

monthly. Just under 70% buy from specialist retailers, 60% from craft breweries direct, and a shade under 40% buy online. Most people who buy online order only every two to three months. It would seem the more convenient the outlet, the more craft beer buyers buy, on average. As for how much they buy, 68% purchase six-packs the most; followed by slabs of 24 (54%). The humble four-pack is left at the bottom on 38%, using data from a Beer Cartel survey via Statista. As for delivery services, which became extremely popular during the pandemic, 31% of those who used alcohol delivery because it was more convenient; 26% said it was cheaper to buy in bulk online; 25% said it was better value for money. 11% said they used the service to avoid driving while intoxicated. As for who makes the beer, small (nonmajor) brewers account for 1,240 jobs in manufacturing and 1,150 jobs in retail and venues.

THE ETERNAL DEBATE: CAN VS BOTTLE Far from conclusive, the can vs. bottle argument shows that cans are only slightly more preferred (38%) over bottles (27%) while about a third of beer drinkers (35%) are content to sit on the fence – as long as the beer is cold, and the vibe is good!

HIGHLY AWARDED THE MASTER’S COLLECTION

Rum

RUM

TO THE FINISH WHENEVER WE LOOK AT THE RUM SECTOR IN THE AUSTRALIAN LIQUOR INDUSTRY, IT SEEMS WE GET THE SAME STORY. RUM IS THE NEW GIN. WILL BE THE NEW GIN. COULD BE THE NEW GIN. AND PREMIUMISATION. WE ARE ALL FOCUSED ON PREMIUMISATION. THE COMPARISON WITH GIN SEEMS VERY DOUBTFUL FOR ALL SORTS OF REASONS, BUT PREMIUMISATION IS GENUINELY A FOCUS. Words by Ken Gargett

In many respects, investigating any sector, whether it be beer, wine or spirits, is difficult at the moment. Covid, border closures, more recently devastation by flooding and the seemingly unstoppable march to conflict in Europe all combine to present a unique picture at this moment. But no doubt, if we look again in, say, five or ten years, we’ll have another unique picture. It is just that it will be very different. So with that in mind, where sits rum in Australia? Rum here has always run its own race. Historically, that has been because one producer has massively dominated the market (and an offshore producer does the same with the white rum market). Bundaberg Rum has had a stranglehold on both the rum market here in a way that is hard to imagine. So, did Covid and the other obstacles harm or hurt rum in Australia? The latest

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figures, coming from 2020 (‘21 figures due very soon but unfortunately did not make our deadline), show that the rum market in Australia grew by 17.3% in volume and, in a nod to the aforementioned premiumisation, by a whopping 21.2% in value. How does that compare with the rest of the world? Are we in a worldwide rum boom? Apparently not. Indeed, the world figures and trends are enough to make a pirate hang his head in shame. Worldwide, rum by volume regressed by 8.9% and by value, 5.1%. Will it continue? Who knows, but it looks grim locally if we look at the CAGR predictions. The category is forecast to grow 3.6% by volume and 3.5% in value worldwide. Australia, however, is looking at a 1% fall in volume and a 0.5% fall in value. Neither are catastrophic, but they indicate a significant turnaround if it comes to pass. Further down the track, the IWSR

predicts that premium rum sales will increase by 38% between 2020 and 2025. Before we continue, we could address the ‘next gin’ claims. Put simply, gin is a ‘distillery to dollars in a few months’ proposition. Rum needs me. It needs to age. Sure, the basic stuff can get away with shorter periods, but it still takes more time than gins, even many high-quality gins. This is partly what has driven the gin craze. Distilleries can make money, cover costs, without spending several years simply waiting on a product. The premium market will focus on both top local products and superb rums imported from offshore. As James France, Founder and Business Development Director of Vanguard Luxury Brands Pty Ltd, importers of Flor de Cana, says, “There are promising signs in the super/ultrapremium and prestige sectors as well, which

all have very robust growth, albeit off small bases. I am not alone in saying that the super and ultra-premium rum sectors are overdue for their time in the sun due to the amazing quality yet low prices of aged rums in these areas. The time for aged rums will come soon.” On a personal note, if I may, it is beyond me why this has not taken hold already. Great rums, especially those of significant age, can be as stunning and complex as any whiskey or cognac. James notes that the Flor de Cana ‘12 year rum’, currently their main focus, retails for less than $100 retail, which “represents excellent value and quality”. James also notes that Flor de Cana is the world’s first spirit to be carbonneutral and Fair Trade certified, facts that will become more important to both retailers and consumers. James also noted that the growth in those markets from IWSR figures for Australia are 33.3% for the Prestige category, 19.2% for the Super Premiums and 24.8% for the Ultra-premium category, although, as noted, from small bases. Locally, of course, Bundaberg Rum is the market colossus. Duncan Littler, Marketing & Experience Manager for Bundaberg Rum, and Jodi McLeod, Marketing Manager for Rum at Diageo, provided some current insights. They noted the “excitement and demand for collaborations – especially those that blur category lines”. Examples include Bundaberg Rum’s recent collaboration with Mr Black coffee liqueur and their partnership with Eumundi Brewery. This is a trend occurring across the board with spirits, but especially so with rum. They, too, draw attention to the innovation and interest in premium rums, noting that their Bundaberg Rum Distillery Edition Coconut Reserve,

which they “believe was the first extra old aged dark rum to be filtered through coconut shell charcoal”. This successfully grew their ‘annual Distillery Edition concept’ by 25% versus last year. They are also justifiably proud of the Bundaberg Rum Small Batch Reserve being crowned ‘Australia’s best rum’ in 2021 at The Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. Spiced rum seems to have shed the idea that it is basically a way to tart up lesser quality rums and is now creating waves. Littler and McLeod noted that the category is growing at three times the growth seen with the non-spiced rums. It is most successful in the pre-mix sector (2nd fastest-growing category in that pre-mix sector). The interest is coming from those who traditionally look to lighter spirits.

An example they provided is the launch of Reeftip Drinks Co, a new Australian Spiced Rum with ginger, lime and sparkling water. There is a question as to whether spiced rums advance the argument about the premiumisation of the category. Still, they are proving very popular with consumers and producers, and the two concepts can easily remain discrete. This producer is also looking to the ever-growing interest and concern with matters environmental by donating 10% of the profits to efforts to assist regeneration of the Great Barrier Reef. Expect to see more producers making similar gestures. From a retailers’ perspective, John Carmody of Liquor Legends is based in Queensland, home to our key producer, Bundaberg Rum. Rum is a crucial component of their business, providing almost one dollar in every five of their Spirit and RTD sales. Rum is outpacing (even if only slightly) spirit sales for Liquor Legends, growing at 8% over the last year. Rum is most popular with shoppers aged 50 and 59, though there have been positive increases in the 40 to 49 bracket. The RTDs find most favour with younger shoppers. Carmody believes that the lifestyle changes imposed on us by Covid restrictions have increased focus on larger formats of established brands, such as one-litre bottles of Bundaberg Rum and Captain Morgan Rum. More time at home has pushed the

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Rum

I am not alone in saying that the super and ultrapremium rum sectors are overdue for their time in the sun due to the amazing quality yet low prices of aged rums in these areas. The time for aged rums will come soon. – James France, Vanguard Luxury Brands

James France, Founder and Business Development Director of Vanguard Luxury Brands Pty Ltd

demand for these larger formats and readyto-serve items and also seen the move to premium products. He has observed the premium category growing more quickly than what he terms mainstream and that there “seems to be an unquenchable thirst for cola and rum RTDs”. Spiced rums are also receiving serious attention. The positive premium trend is also evident to the small importer/distributor of quality rums. Michael York of Quitting Time has seen this in the ‘mid to premium segment’. “$70 - $100 bottles aren’t slowing down any time soon”. He notes among the rums which are ‘strong performers’ for him as the ‘El Dorado 12yr ($85 ish), Doorly’s XO ($94 ish) and Pussers Blue label ($79)’. I won’t even mention his Foursquare rums as they simply disappear seconds after arrival.

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They are one of the most in-demand spirit brands globally and very much an example of the trend to premiumisation. Michael also notes the lifting of the “quality perception of Australian Rum and the category as a whole in Australia”. He attributes this to several factors, noting how “different barrel influences are making way for creativity to blossom at the same time that public acceptance for premium quality rum being a ‘thing’ is slowly becoming common knowledge”. He sees several local producers pushing the boundaries here, which is taking rum to the next level and if that is combined “with what’s going on in the rest of the world, where people like Richard Seale (Foursquare), Joy Spence (Appleton) and Shaun Caleb (El Dorado) are modernising

their rums while maintaining historical integrity”, Michael believes that will “keep depth and authenticity in the category”. Personally, the efforts of someone like Richard Seale of Foursquare Rum in highlighting a possible GI system for rum and fighting to highlight authenticity can only help to cement premium rum as one of the world’s quality spirits (making brilliant rum doesn’t hurt either). This is also partly why aged rum is such an amazing bargain at this stage. When the world works this out, it will be goodbye to great buying, and we will have another spirit where the best examples attract oligarch money. Add to that no other spirit has anything like rum’s story, nor has any other spirit played an influential role in the history of the world as rum has. Michael also drew attention to another factor helping premium rums in this country. “Rum Subscription services like Rum Club Australia – while this is aimed at the rum community – the numbers are increasing every month, and the price point is floating on the high side of $100 each month which doesn’t seem to dissuade consumers”. The outlook of a small, quality distiller adds another angle to the tapestry of rum in Australia. Husk Distillers is based on the Tweed Coast in north-east NSW; their operation is based on the Agricole style of rum from the French Caribbean, although

General Manager, Harriet Messenger, once told me that they are yet to make a dollar from rum – it is all financed by their incredibly successful gin, Ink Gin (I remain convinced that many gin producers set out with the expectation of making quality aged whiskies and/or rums until they run headlong into the reality of the economics of spirits production and gin becomes very appealing. I also suspect many gin producers have quality whiskies and rums maturing away, and we will eventually see them, but the gin makes this financially possible). Quentin Brival, from French Martinique, home to Agricole rums, is Head Distiller at Husk. Quentin happened to be holidaying in the region when Husk needed a distiller in one of the more delightful instances of synchronicity. He brings a fresh and different perspective. Quentin notes the ‘renaissance’ currently enjoyed by the industry. He acknowledges that there are dominant key players, but “for the first time, we observe a bourgeoning of new local craft producers, an accrued presence of never-before imported premium rums and a shift in consumer demand towards new and better products. This new Australian rum era is generating interest

A new player A while back, an old mate from the hospitality industry rang to say he was planning on distilling rum and had every intention of making the very best rum Australia had ever seen. “So you are about to start making gin”, was my response. Against the odds, we have now seen the new distillery, based on the Sunshine Coast, open its doors and the first rum emerge. 476 bottles of Nil Desperandum Rum, meaning ‘nothing to despair’. Australia’s first ‘certified organic molasses rum’ contains only organic molasses, with Woombye water and wild yeasts. Former winemaker, Adam Chapman, well known throughout the wine industry from time with such producers as Sirromet and Peter Lehmann, is head distiller. They have

and enthusiasm, which led to several rum dedicated events over the past few years. They keep growing each year and are now held in several major capital cities. Rum connoisseurs that used to purchase their rum overseas and attend rum festivals in Paris or London finally have credible alternatives in Australia.” He likes the concept of new local distillers working together to promote premium rums and ‘entice new consumers’. Quentin acknowledges the reality of rum not being the next gin – “we won’t see the same explosion we’ve observed with Australian gin over the past 5-10 years because rum is much more expensive, harder, and longer

used former sherry, wine and bourbon barrels in production. In time, they expect that Nil Desperandum Rum will also make an impact in international markets. As one of the founders, Matt Hobson, says, “Australian rums aren’t acknowledged around the world. And in our opinion, it’s time they were.” The point of difference? “What makes this rum different is that we are an artisan distillery that spares no expense or time to make truly exceptional spirits. We distil with love, patience, art and science, and the results are incredible.” Their inspiration has been the best from the Caribbean. As Adam says, “it tastes as rum should.” Hobson makes the interesting point, which extends far beyond the new enterprise, that “throughout COVID, spirit consumers have become far more discerning about what they drink.” The first release, designed to

to make, which restricts the number of new entrants in the industry”. He is keen to be part of Husk’s ‘paddock to bottle approach’ and the creation of a “product truly Australian with a real sense of provenance”. He notes the success of spiced rums but also points to where this can lead. “Spiced rums have been very popular, and their consumption grew in recent years; however, educated drinkers are slowly turning to more premium, non-sweetened and nonadulterated products”. The future? “At Husk, we have and continue to push the boundaries of Australian Rum with our farm to bottle products made from fresh cane juice as opposed to molasses-like most rums. This continues to be something unique in Australia and a real point of difference for consumers eager to enjoy new, quality products”. With participants like those mentioned here and many others, it seems the future for rum in Australia has never looked better. In summary, rum is not gin, but it is moving more and more to higher quality products and an acceptance of them by consumers who are becoming more educated. And spiced rums are in a sweet spot – KBG.

be sipped with ice and not smothered in cola or anything else, much as one would approach any great spirit, will retail for $180, so they are not mucking about in the bargain bin territory. There will be other releases at different levels in due course. The new rum? Vanilla and coffee bean, white chocolate, tropical notes and a touch of raisins. A mellow, creamy texture with excellent length. Promising stuff. The inspiration for fellow founder, Michael Conrad, is to see Nil Desperandum recognised as “a worldclass rum” offshore. He believes that their rum will “be a new experience for many Australians, but a journey I know they’ll want to enjoy time and time again.” The plan is their own journey to world recognition and to ensure a first-class product combined with sustainability principles. And yes, they do make a gin.

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Husk

From Rocks to Rum

Husk Distillery

KEN GARGETT DISCOVERS ONE FORMER GEOLOGIST’S LOVE FOR AGRICOLE RUM AND HOW LANDING ON BUTTERFLY PEA FLOWER AS A GIN BOTANICAL LED THIS LOCAL DISTILLER TO FULFIL HIS DREAM TO CRAFT QUEENSLAND SUGARCANE INTO QUALITY SPIRIT. Words by Ken Gargett Even the most maroon-eyed Queenslander will concede that the Tweed Hinterland, in the northeast of NSW, is one of the most beautiful places on earth – minutes from beautiful beaches, patches of exquisite rainforest from the ancient Gondwanaland, tiny villages, farms, acres of waving green sugarcane, the Tweed River wending its way throughout and the imposing Mt Warning looking down over all beneath it, like a benevolent Mt Doom. Queenslanders just think they got the border wrong. What is important here is the sugarcane because, as every good Australian knows, sugarcane is crucial for one thing – rum. Queenslanders grow up with the stuff and see it as a Holy mission to share rum with all other Australians and visitors. Paul Messenger and his family have taken this quest a little more seriously than most. Paul is originally from the Gold Coast

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but has enjoyed a most peripatetic lifestyle. A geologist by trade, Paul was impressed by what Bill Lark had achieved in Tasmania with whisky, with ‘terroir’ and ‘provenance’. It was, however, a family holiday to the Caribbean which finally pushed him over the edge. Although a lover of whisky, Paul was taken by the agricole rums from Martinique. He loved the complexity and the representation of terroir. On his return to Australia, he searched for any that might be available here. Nothing. Not one. Well, if he couldn’t find any then he would have to make his own. Their first still, just 50 litres, is this tiny, cute thing which looks more like it should be in a doll’s house than a working distillery – believe me, they have come a very long way since then, in a short amount of time. Paul is clearly not someone who does things half-heartedly. Extensive

research into the industry and numerous trips to a range of distilleries and makers, here and offshore, led to the purchase of a farm at North Tumbulgum in the Tweed hinterland. At that stage, the farm was not growing sugarcane but they were surrounded by others that were. This was as recently as 2011. Needless to say, the first few years were not easy. They made two barrels of rum in 2012 and ten in 2013. Like so many craft distillers, it quickly becomes obvious that if you want to make spirits requiring age, like rum and whisky, you need something to provide cash flow until the rum can fill the coffers – GM of Hospitality and Marketing, Harriet Messenger (Paul’s daughter), notes that they are still to make a cent from the rum side of the business. So, as has been done by so many, gin it was. Again, research into the world gin

Although a lover of whisky, Paul was taken by the agricole rums from Martinique. He loved the complexity and the representation of terroir. On his return to Australia, he searched for any that might be available here. Nothing. Not one.

PHOTOS: Above: Husk Distillery Below: Quentin Brival and Paul Messenger

craze, at that time yet to hit Australia, made it very clear that they needed to be something other than just one more gin hitting the shelves. Extensive experimentation with botanicals finally struck gold. The butterfly pea flower. From equatorial Asia, though now found in many countries, it is a holy plant in India and I would not be at all surprised if the Messenger family had built their own shrine to it. Its most striking feature are the deep, vivid blue flowers. They are used for colouring, teas, dyes and in certain cuisines. It must have been like Christmas in the tasting room when the team discovered that this botanical gave a brilliantly coloured indigo gin which then turned disco pink when tonic or lemon or lime was added. And so was born Ink Gin. In terms of craft gin popularity, it now sits only behind Four Pillars (can we still call Four Pillars craft, after the involvement of Lion? Perhaps not, but it hardly matters). Not that this was something that we discussed but I understand that an Instagram plug from Margot Robbie around four or five years ago, sent sales through the roof, giving the resources a great boost, ensuring that the team could move to the next stage of the plan. It also created enormous interest from around the world.

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Husk

Ink Gin and cocktails may pay the bills, but they are a sideshow compared to the main game – rum! And not just any old rum. The focus here is agricole rum.

Husk Distillers Dry Gin

Also, worth mentioning is that they have established the distillery as one of the must-visit destinations in the Tweed region. A cellar door, tours of facilities, tastings, a beautifully kept lawn for afternoon cocktails and a very popular dining location (my niece, a huge fan of the Ink Gin, assures me that the smoked eggplant hummus is a must). I’m not sure that Tumbulgum, population 383 at the last census, has ever seen anything like it. And if you are visiting, make sure you book. Pre-Covid, the family and I went for a visit for lunch. We could not get close to the place. They also have plantings of the various types of sugarcane one can examine – with a sign warning about the “native snakes” (unless someone has been releasing the odd Burmese python, I thought all our snakes were native?). Ink Gin and cocktails may pay the bills, but they are a sideshow compared to the main game – rum! And not just any old rum. The focus here is agricole rum. They have dabbled briefly with what we may think of the more traditional molasses-based rum, but these days, it is all agricole rum for Husk. And for that, you need sugarcane. Sugarcane may have arrived with the First Fleet in 1788, but it was never going to be successful when grown around Sydney. It was only after the establishment

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of Queensland as a State, in June 1859 that progress was made. In 1861, fields were established in North Queensland and then, in 1862, a plantation was established near Brisbane with the first commercial sugar mill. There followed some of the less enlightening periods of Australian history with the indentured labour/blackbirding, bringing South Sea Islanders to Queensland to work in the fields. This finally ceased in 1904. Today, 95% of sugarcane grown in Australia is based in Queensland, the rest in northern NSW. The majority of rums are made with molasses but on the Island of Martinique and other French Caribbean islands, there is Rhum Agricole, which is made from freshly squeezed sugarcane juice. It has spread to places like Grenada, certain islands of Hawaii, Panama, Trinidad and numerous other places. Such are the standards in Martinique that, under French law, the rhums are entitled to appellation d’origine contrôlée status. We have a long way to go before reaching anything like that here. Differences between the two techniques are well explained at Husk. Rhum Agricole is considered to express the terroir of the fields more accurately than standard rums. It may come as a surprise – it certainly did to me – to learn that there

are numerous different types of sugarcane, often hybrids (also that it is the world’s largest crop by production quantity). Husk has five different types, mostly commercial canes, but they also have small plantings of a cane known as Badilla. This is known as one of the noble canes – in other words, one of the early, even ancient varieties from which many of today’s more popular canes have evolved or been bred. Badilla is a dark purple colour and a much slower growing cane. No longer considered commercial, it does give wonderfully concentrated juice. The team found a few of them in a local farmer’s garden. They planted a couple and each year have been expanding on that. They now have four acres and, although no rums have been released from this cane as yet, they are in barrel awaiting the day… Given the inertness of molasses, it is a much easier substance to work with than fresh juice. The juice is basically alive and even though Husk use their own cultured yeasts in fermentation, yeasts on the cane begin working immediately the cane is cut. There is no time to spare. The team is careful to ensure first press juice only as clean juice is essential. It is one reason they do not buy juice – those producing juice for sale look for maximum extraction which does not equate to

Husk Distillers Rum

pristine juice. They currently have 150 acres of sugarcane, which more than cover requirements. All the waste (with the exception of cinnamon quills) is happily consumed by the fifty head of cattle on the farm. A new mill is on its way from Brazil and the ‘Fat Bastard’, a Forsyth still, has been installed. This is the first such still in Australia. They have used new American oak barrels at times but now focus on exBourbon barrels and those with a range of ages. Even a few ex-Champagne barrels find their way into the distillery. The oldest rums they have in barrel date back to 2013. They have also made tiny quantities of whisky, wort from a different local brewer each time, but none have yet been released. Husk offer a range of core rums – their Botanic, with local botanicals including some picked from the ancient native forests from Gondwanaland which border the farm; the Pure Cane, basically a white rum anywhere in the world (and a very good one) except here thanks to curious legislation; and the Bam Bam (named after a song, not a Rubble) which is their spiced rum and includes native ginger, roasted wattleseed, orange peel, cinnamon, vanilla bean and more. Then there are various special releases, though it seems one needs to be a touch fortunate with timing to source those. Expect this problem to ease as stocks build over time. If the team were wonderfully fortunate in the use of the butterfly pea for their Ink Gin, then the Divinity of the Dancing Wombats truly smiled on them when it came time to appoint a head distiller to go to the

Husk Distillers Spiced Bam Bam

next step. Needless to say, given that Husk was the sole producer of rhum agricole in Australia at that stage, looking for someone experienced with this style of rum around the Tweed Valley was always likely to be a long shot. And yet, right at this time, Quentin Brival just happened to be visiting and looking for a challenge. Quentin is from Martinique and rhum agricole is his thing. You could not make that up. It has not been all rum and roses, so to speak. The Tweed floods a few years ago caused considerable damage (the Tweed, even in drought, always gives the impression it is ready to burst its banks, so when there

is rain, flooding is a constant danger). Covid has also impacted adversely with visitors, as it has for so many businesses. Husk Distillery is a must-visit, whether or not you are a rum-lover (and if you are not, every chance you will be afterwards), if you are in this region. Otherwise, anyone interested in rum or spirits in general, should track them down. This is not an operation for the short term. They do not speak in terms of one-year or even five-year plans, but rather in fifty-year plans. They have come an incredibly long way in a very short time. I have no doubt you’ll hear a great deal more about Husk.

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Last Drinks

The Negroni THE NEGRONI HAS RISEN ONCE MORE TO CLAIM IT’S ROYAL VESTITURE AMONG THE GREATS OF THE COCKTAIL WORLD. THE REASON FOR THE RESURGENCE OF THIS BOOZEY DRINK MAY NOT BE ALL THAT CLEAR, BUT KNOWING THE SPECS TO THE DRINK SHOULD BE. ONCE YOU’VE SOLD THE CUSTOMER ON THE GIN, THE VERMOUTH AND THE BOTTLE OF CAMPARI – DON’T FORGET TO RECOMMEND QUALITY IDE. MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE. Words by Ashley Pini

THE STORY

One part gin, one-part sweet vermouth, one part bitters; that’s a negroni. Yet this seemingly simple concoction is in fact highly complex. You can thank bittersweet, blood-red Campari for that - the spirit most commonly utilised for negroni’s bitters component. More than sixty herbs, fruits and spices derive to create Campari’s unique flavour profile; think orange peel, pomegranate, ginseng and rhubarb; it’s no wonder then that a single whiff of a negroni can send a delightful shiver down your spine. While medicinal and citrusy on the nose, the bitters are subdued by the sweet vermouth rosso before gin cuts through, sharpening the cocktail and generating the definitive Negroni flavour that has taken the world by storm. You might not expect that these three flavour components compliment each other, but they truly do, marrying beautifully in the glass and provoking that delightful pre-meal giddiness a decent aperitif should do.

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So, who can we thank for this aromatic, yet fiery cocktail of joy? Count Negroni of course. In the late nineteenth century, the Italians were right into their Americanos, a cocktail whose recipe called for Campari, sweet vermouth and club soda (it was also referred to as the Milano-Torino with Campari originating from Milan and the brand of vermouth used Cinzano, originating from Turin). Yet it seems for this Italian nobleman, club soda wasn’t going to cut it. He ordered an Americano and did something fabulous indeed: he said, “hold the soda, put some gin in it.” And there we have it, the Negroni was born, ready to grace the palates of cocktail aficionados across the globe before being subsumed by the wider drinking culture who fell for each tantalizing sip. The beauty of aperitifs is that they leave you wanting more: with such a penetrating array of flavours, from sweet to downright bitter, anything following on the palate is sure to be mouth wateringly delicious.

But there’s something about the Negroni, with its complex blend of aromas, fruit and spice, flavours that are perfectly balanced by the crispness of gin, that guarantees its suitability for any occasion, be it as an accompaniment to the evening meal or for weekend drinking festivities. So go ahead, break the rules, make a Negroni and enjoy it at whatever time of the day you feel appropriate. It’s precisely what the Count would have wanted. MAKES 1 DRINK INGREDIENTS: 45ml Gin 45ml Campari 45ml Red Vermouth METHOD: Build spirits over ice in a rocks glass. Stir gently with a tall spoon GARNISH: Orange slice GLASS: Rocks

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Drinks Trade #82 - Autumn 2022

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