GMT Africa 04

The Streamliner

by H. Moser & Cie.

The Streamliner. VERY RARE.

Under the minimalistic fluid lines and integrated bracelet lies a heart of unimaginable complexity. The first flyback chronograph automatic by H. Moser & Cie.

TIME ON TIME!

!2020, Oh what a year! Let me take this opportunity, on behalf of the entire team at GMT Africa, to share our sincere sympathies with those who have lost loved ones, suffered and continue to suffer due to this crappy pandemic. If we underestimated the value of Time before, 2020 has certainly taught us that Time stands still for no one! We once again learnt that Time is the ultimate luxury, priceless! This year, I became a second time grandfather and had the time to enjoy priceless moments with my family. This event combined with the total shut down, once again, taught me the value of Time as the true and real luxury of life, nothing compares.

Whilst we were not able to publish two editions of GMT Africa during the pandemic, we are definitely making up with this end of year bumper edition, our largest and most complete edition till date. Please do take your time to thoroughly enjoy; page by page.

Whilst Time is the true luxury, the passion of watches and watch collection still continues as we cannot resist our passions. At the same time, the brands have continued to feed our insatiable appetite with new and amazing designs and technology. I have chosen the all new “Skeltec” watch from the independent brand Chronoswiss as our cover story because of the sheer creativity and audacity of the watch and the company. A long drink with the brand owner, Oliver Epstein, gave me an intense insight into the exciting vision he aspires for the future of the brand. Please take your time to read his interview with GMT Africa. This GMT Africa is again filled with super super exciting information for lovers of all things Time in life, watch aficionados and equally those new to the art of time!

DEREMI AJIDAHUN I PULISHER insta la vista : daa_live

BIG BANG INTEGRAL

Black ceramic case with integrated bracelet. In-house UNICO chronograph movement. Limited to 500 pieces.

INNOVATION ADAPTING TO CHANGE

The world in the wake of the global pandemic has been forced to innovate in many areas, in line with this innovative spirit, it is only fitting that the cover of this edition is the bold and daring all new “Skeltec” from the independent brand Chronoswiss. A tribute to the radical path the world took in its approach to fighting this pandemic.

At GMT Africa, we have stayed consistent in our focus of bringing directly to your reading tables, novel and radical timepieces from independent brands and branded houses. Each publication of GMT Africa is similar in focus yet vastly different in content and delivery; with the goal of being a relaxing read whilst directly influencing the taste and love for timepieces on the African continent.

GMT Africa’s journey will not be complete without you; our readers and friends of the house. As you continue this journey with me, I extend my gratitude to you for your constructive feedback, distribution and advertising. Our success is as a result of this and I urge you to keep supporting through advertising and feedback. Happy Reading!

KUNLE AGBOOLA I Editor instagram : @gmtafrica

GMTAfrica gmtafrica

PLUMES

Contributors

Sous la direction du rédacteur en chef de GMT, Brice Lechevalier et éditeur de GMT Africa, Deremi Ajidahun, les auteurs suivants ont apporté une expertise à cette édition..

Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, Brice Lechevalier and Publisher of GMT Africa, Deremi Ajidahun the following writers have made expert contributions to this edition.

Brice Lechevalier

Au four et au moulin, le fondateur du magazine cherche à transmettre du plaisir aux lecteurs au fil des articles. Involved in all aspects of the magazine, the founder seeks to convey a sense of pleasure to readers through the various articles.

Nkemka Uche

Passionné d’horlogerie, écrivain et blogueur. il plonge dans la culture horlogère au Nigeria.

A passionate watch enthusiast, writer and blogger. he delves into the watch culture in Nigeria

Paul O’Neil

Le rédacteur en chef de WorldTempus.com met en perspective nos articles de fond à la lumière du traitement de ce thème sur le site spécialisé.

The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.

Sezno Benson

Producteur du vlog Sezzyfy et membre de l’équipe GMT Africa. Il partage son objectif et sa vision de ce que les montres sont et devraient être.

Producer of the Sezzyfy vlog and a member GMT Africa team. He shares his lens and vision for what watches are and should be.

Christophe Persoz

Cet horloger chevronné analyse une montre qu’il porte pendant toute une semaine et en livre son bilan technique et esthétique. This experienced watchmaker analyzes a model that he wears for an entire week before delivering his technical and aesthetic verdict.

David Osadolor

Membre expérimenté de l’équipe éditoriale de GMT Africa, il rend compte des événements et des produits de la marque..

An experienced member of the GMT Africa editorial team, he reports on brand events and products.

Sonia Ehizewele

Membre expérimenté de l’équipe éditoriale de GMT Africa, elle écrit sur le style de vie de luxe et couvre la collection de jetset. An experienced member of the GMT Africa editorial team, She writes on luxury lifestyle and covers jetset collection

Deremi Ajidahun

L’éditeur GMT Africa et le PDG du groupe Hole19 partagent son point de vue et plus de 25 ans d’expérience sur le marché du luxe en Afriques. Publisher GMT Africa and CEO Hole19 Group shares his perspective and over 25 years experience on the African luxury market.

David Chokron

Journaliste expert en horlogerie, il alimente notre rubrique Technique tout en présentant les dernières nouveautés.

An expert watch journalist, he provides content for our Tech Insights column as well as presenting the latest new models.

Serge Panczuk

Ce collectionneur basé en Californie est aussi un grand voyageur et partage sa vision très personnelle de ce que nous « raconte » une montre.

This California-based collector is also a keen traveler who shares his extremely personal vision of what a watch is and what it “tells” us.

Kunle Agboola

Rédacteur en chef de GMT Africa et Zakaa Living, il écrit sur l’industrie horlogère en pleine croissance en Afrique.. Editor GMT Africa and Zakaa Living, He writes about the growing watch industry in Africa.

10.08am on Fifth Avenue. N 40° 43’ 53.1’’ W 73° 59’ 49.1’’.

Starting at CHF 44’000.

BEWARE OF

53 Gana street, Maitama, Abuja

74 - 82

Marques fondatrices des Geneva Watch Days The founding brands of Geneva Watch Days 74 BREITLNG Le temps des héros The time of heroes 75BVLGARI

L’aluminium anobli Ennobled aluminum 76 DE BETHUNE

Finesse et élégance techniques Technical finesse and elegance 78 H. MOSER & CIE

L’un dans l’autre et vice versa Entwined destinies 79 MB&F L’un dans l’autre et réciproquement Destinies entwined 80 GIRARD-PERREGAUX Le pont libéré Liberating the bridge 81 ULYSSE NARDIN Puissance X Raw Power 82 URWERK En bicolore In two-tone mode 84 ARTYA Griffon d’or des temps modernes Modern-day golden griffin 85 BOVET Un univers de transparence A world of transparency 86 CARL F. BUCHERER En eaux profondes, avec style In deep waters, with style 87 CHANEL Chanel, à l’extrême Extreme Chanel 88 JAEGER-LECOULTRE Chrono au grand cœur A big-hearted chronograph 89 HERMÈS Lune sur lune Moon on moon 90 LOUIS MOINET Le temps venu de l’espace Time from outer space

Cover story

NKEMKA UCHE

Chronoswiss Skeltec

A new Era in Skeletonising

Chronoswiss Skeltec

Case back: Screw-down case back with satin finish and sapphire crystal, Band width: 22 mm, Number of parts: 51, Diameter:45 mm, Height:15,15 mm, Finish: Sand blasted matt finish, Bezel: Polished and knurled, with curved, double coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal, Material: Stainless steel with DLC coating; bezel, crown, screws and back ring in 18 -karat red gold, Frequency:4 Hz (28,800 A/h), Number of jewels: 21, Power reserve: Approx. 48 hours, Movement: Manufacture caliber C.304, hand wound, Buckle: Pin buckle bicolor, Strap material: Calf skin and textile, Dial material: Skeletonized, galvanic black, matt finish, Displays: Central hours and minutes, Design of hands: Skeletonized, red-gold plated, Super-LumiNova inlays, Water resistance: 5 bar, Special features: Skeletonized manufacture movement, open balance wheel, skeletonized spring barrel

Chronoswiss was established in 1983 in the heyday of quartz timepieces by the renowned horologist skilled in the manufacture of watch movements, Gerd-Rüdiger Lang. Fascinated by timekeeping mechanisms, Gerd-Rüdiger was a co-author of “Chronograph wristwatches: To Stop Time”. Consequently, Chronoswiss pioneered many world firsts by adapting horological heritage to the wrist of watch lovers and quickly gained popularity with collectors during the revival of mechanical watchmaking in the early 1990’s.

In 2012, Oliver and Eva Ebstein bought Chronoswiss from GerdRüdiger Lang and relocated the atelier and headquarters to Lucerne, Switzerland. Under new ownership, Chronoswiss continues to push the boundaries in progressive 21st century watchmaking. The brand consistently combines traditional artisanal values with modern materials and innovative design.

Earlier in September, Chronoswiss released a modernized skeletonized watch called SkelTec featuring the beautifully exposed in-house caliber C.304. All the movement’s superfluous elements are removed to achieve an extremely transparent timepiece with contrasting materials. SkelTec comes in two versions; a stainless steel version with Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) coated parts, and a DLC coated stainless steel version that’s accented with 18-karat red gold. Both versions feature sculptured cases with free-flowing curves representing the fluidity of time.

The production of SkelTec’s radically progressive case design required new non-traditional techniques that were challenging to perfect, truly a new era for skeletonizing. Head of design at Chronoswiss, Maik Panziera, explains that “in other industries, such free-flowing forms can be easily implemented with injection molding. However, since you cannot achieve a high-quality result with stainless steel in the watch sector, the difficulty lay in implementing this organic design on a five-axis CNC machine.”

SkelTec visually represents Chronoswiss’s ability to invent innovative timepieces that combine modern design with over thirty years of skeletonizing mastery. There are no excess parts on this watch. Furthermore, the use of negative space and contrasting materials transform the dial into a captivating work of art void of distraction. SkelTec is a fresh take on contemporary skeletonizing yet it successfully preserves traditional Chronoswiss design cues like the knurled bezel and onion shaped ring.

SkelTec is available at Zakaa Luxury, a subsidiary of Hole 19 group, Chronoswiss official brand partner in West Africa.

Who’s who

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Frédéric Arnault

Frédéric Arnault est depuis le 1er juillet le nouveau CEO de TAG Heuer, dont il était jusqu’à présent directeur de la stratégie et du numérique, après y être entré en 2017 pour gérer les activités liées aux montres connectées.

Frédéric Arnault has been the new CEO of TAG Heuer since July 1st, having previously served as Director of Strategy and Digital, after joining the company in 2017 to manage the smartwatchrelated activities.

Philippe Roten

Philippe Roten est le nouveau CEO de Favre-Leuba depuis le début de l’année. Il a effectué ses premiers pas dans l’horlogerie chez Gübelin en 1999, suivis de solides expériences au sein de Swatch Group et chez LVMH mais également dans d’autres secteurs

Philippe Roten has been the new CEO of Favre-Leuba since the start of the year. He began his watchmaking career at Gübelin in 1999, followed by solid experience acquired with the Swatch Group and LVMH, as well as in other sectors.

Bertrand Savary

Bertrand Savary a été nommé Président d’Angelus et Arnold & Son, après un passage à la tête de Jacob & Co. en 2019 et près de 20 ans de développement des ventes au sein de LVMH, Richemont et Swatch Group, notamment chez Vacheron Constantin de 2014 à 2019.

Bertrand Savary has been appointed Chairman of Angelus and Arnold & Son, after a stint at the head of Jacob & Co. in 2019 and almost 20 years of sales development within LVMH, Richemont and Swatch Group, notably at Vacheron Constantin from 2014 to 2019.

Stéphane Bianchi

Stéphane Bianchi étend son influence au sein de LVMH, dont il devient PDG de la Division Montres et Joaillerie, incluant les marques Chaumet, Fred, Hublot, Zenith et TAG Heuer, maison qu’il dirigeait depuis 2018.

Stéphane Bianchi is extending his influence within LVMH, where he has been appointed CEO of the Watches and Jewelry Division, including the brands Chaumet, Fred, Hublot, Zenith and TAG Heuer – having headed the latter since 2018.

Olivier Audemars

Olivier Audemars (VP du Conseil d’Administration d’Audemars Piguet) voit sa passion pour l’art sollicitée par le Conseil d’Etat du canton de Vaud qui l’a nommé Président du Conseil de la Fondation Plateforme 10, dont l’objectif est de rassembler le Musée cantonal des Beaux-Arts, le Musée de l’Elysée et le mudac.

Olivier Audemars (Vice Chairman of the Audemars Piguet Board of Directors) nurtures a passion for art now called upon by the State Council of the Canton of Vaud, which has appointed him Chairman of the Board of the Plateforme 10 Foundation, aimed at bringing together the Cantonal Museum of Fine Art, the Musée de l’Elysée and the mudac.

Guillain Maspétiol

Jean-Claude Eggen

Guillain Maspétiol est devenu CEO de Kerbedanz, dont il entend développer la distribution et les collections de montres très haut de gamme. Après 25 ans à des postes de direction chez Cartier et Jaeger-LeCoultre en Asie, Europe et au Moyen-Orient, il était directeur des ventes de GirardPerregaux de 2017 à 2019.

Jean-Claude Eggen est devenu CEO de Manufacture La JouxPerret (propriétaire d’Angelus et Arnold & Son), après s’être construit une solide carrière chez ETA, notamment jusqu’en 2019 en tant que membre de la Direction générale élargie du Swatch Group.

Jean-Claude Eggen became CEO of Manufacture La Joux-Perret (owner of Angelus and Arnold & Son), after building a solid career at ETA, notably until 2019 as a member of the Extended Management Board of the Swatch Group.

Guillain Maspétiol has taken on the role of CEO for Kerbedanz, and intends to focus on developing distribution as well as extremely highend watch collections. After 25 years in management positions at Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre in Asia, Europe and the Middle East, he served as International Sales Director at GirardPerregaux from 2017 to 2019.

Who’s who .

Hole19 Group Horizontal integration

Bi Feuser-Ajidahu

Julien Haenny vient de décrocher le meilleur poste de l’horlogerie : en tant que General Manager du Fine Watch Club il travaillera avec les plus belles marques de montres de luxe (voir son interview p.48). Après s’être bâti une expérience internationale dans le marketing et la vente chez MGI Luxury Group, Jaeger-LeCoultre et TechnoMarine, il était jusqu’en 2018 CEO d’Anonimo.

Julien Haenny has just snapped up the best watch industry job of all. As General Manager of the Fine Watch Club, he will work with the most prestigious luxury watch brands (see his interview on p. 48). After gaining international experience in marketing and sales with the MGI Luxury

Deremi Ajidahun

Julien Haenny vient de décrocher le meilleur poste de l’horlogerie : en tant que General Manager du Fine Watch Club il travaillera avec les plus belles marques de montres de luxe (voir son interview p.48). Après s’être bâti une expérience internationale dans le marketing et la vente chez MGI Luxury Group, Jaeger-LeCoultre et TechnoMarine, il était jusqu’en 2018 CEO d’Anonimo.

Julien Haenny has just snapped up the best watch industry job of all. As General Manager of the Fine Watch Club, he will work with the most prestigious luxury watch brands (see his interview on p. 48). After gaining international experience in marketing and sales with the MGI Luxury

Afolabi Ajidahun

lien Haenny vient de décrocher le meilleur poste de l’horlogerie : en tant que General Manager du Fine Watch Club il travaillera avec les plus belles marques de montres de luxe (voir son interview p.48). Après s’être bâti une expérience internationale dans le marketing et la vente chez MGI Luxury Group, Jaeger-LeCoultre et TechnoMarine, il était jusqu’en 2018 CEO d’Anonimo.

Julien Haenny has just snapped up the best watch industry job of all. As General Manager of the Fine Watch Club, he will work with the most prestigious luxury watch brands (see his interview on p. 48). After gaining international experience in marketing and sales with the MGI Luxury

Motunrayo Yusuff

Julien Haenny vient de décrocher le meilleur poste de l’horlogerie : en tant que General Manager du Fine Watch Club il travaillera avec les plus belles marques de montres de luxe (voir son interview p.48). Après s’être bâti une expérience internationale dans le marketing et la vente chez MGI Luxury Group, Jaeger-LeCoultre et TechnoMarine, il était jusqu’en 2018 CEO d’Anonimo.

Julien Haenny has just snapped up the best watch industry job of all. As General Manager of the Fine Watch Club, he will work with the most prestigious luxury watch brands (see his interview on p. 48). After gaining international experience in marketing and sales with the MGI Luxury

Kunle Agboola

Julien Haenny vient de décrocher le meilleur poste de l’horlogerie : en tant que General Manager du Fine Watch Club il travaillera avec les plus belles marques de montres de luxe (voir son interview p.48). Après s’être bâti une expérience internationale dans le marketing et la vente chez MGI Luxury Group, Jaeger-LeCoultre et TechnoMarine, il était jusqu’en 2018 CEO d’Anonimo.

Julien Haenny has just snapped up the best watch industry job of all. As General Manager of the Fine Watch Club, he will work with the most prestigious luxury watch brands (see his interview on p. 48). After gaining international experience in marketing and sales with the MGI Luxury

David Osadolor

Julien Haenny vient de décrocher le meilleur poste de l’horlogerie : en tant que General Manager du Fine Watch Club il travaillera avec les plus belles marques de montres de luxe (voir son interview p.48). Après s’être bâti une expérience internationale dans le marketing et la vente chez MGI Luxury Group, Jaeger-LeCoultre et TechnoMarine, il était jusqu’en 2018 CEO d’Anonimo.

Julien Haenny has just snapped up the best watch industry job of all. As General Manager of the Fine Watch Club, he will work with the most prestigious luxury watch brands (see his interview on p. 48). After gaining international experience in marketing and sales with the MGI Luxury

EDITOR’S PICKS Sélection

JORDY BELLIDO

Code couleur Color code

Color code Code couleur

JAQUET DROZ MAURICE LACROIX BVLGARI ARTYA

Minute Repeater

Platinum

Logé dans un boîtier de 40 mm en platine gravé main, le cadran en émail bleu roi de cette pièce unique abrite un mouvement à remontage manuel doté d’une répétition minutes.

Framed by a hand-engraved 40 mm platinum case, the royal blue dial of this one-of-a-kind model houses a hand-wound minuterepeater movement.

CHF 300’000.–

Octo Finissimo Automatique Acier

Satiné 100 m

Animé par le calibre Finissimo BVL138 d’une épaisseur de 2.23 mm, visible à travers un fond saphir, cette montre de 40 mm de diamètre dispose d’un cadran en laque bleue avec finitions soleillées.

Powered by the Finissimo BVL138 caliber measuring 2.23mm thick and visible through a sapphire caseback, this 40mmdiameter timepiece features a blue-lacquered sunburst finish.

CHF 11’500.–

Grande Seconde Paillonnée

Logé dans un boîtier en or rouge de 43 mm, le cadran paillonné sur émail Grand Feu bleu et opalin argenté avec applique en or rouge abrite un mouvement automatique. Cette pièce existe en 8 exemplaires. Nestling inside a 43mm red gold case, the paillonnédial with a blue and opaline silver Grand Feu enamel base and red gold applique conceals a self-winding movement. This model is issued in an eightpiece edition.

CHF 43’200.–

Aikon Venturer

Accompagné d’un bracelet en acier bicolor plaqué or, l’Aikon Venturer, automatique, comporte un cadran bleu soleillé. De même couleur, la lunette tournante en céramique est habillée de cavaliers en or.

Teamed with a two-tone gold-plated steel bracelet, the self-winding Aikon Venturer features a blue dial and a matching blue ceramic rotating bezel fitted with gold rider tabs.

CHF 2’700.–

Sélection

JORDY BELLIDO

D’hier et d’aujourd’hui From then to now

From then to now D’hier et d’aujourd’hui

Dans l’horlogerie, tradition et modernité vont de pair. La mode vintage reflète à la perfection cette union. Au moyen d’assortiments de couleurs, de formes, de matériaux et de textures, le passé se mêle au présent pour faire renaître un cycle. Unisexe, avec des boîtiers de taille intermédiaire notamment, l’horlogerie vintage 2020 est faite pour lui ET pour elle.

When it comes to watchmaking, tradition and modernity go hand in hand. Vintage fashion perfectly reflects this union. Through assorted colors, shapes, materials and textures, past blends with present to revive a cycle. The 2020 take on vintage watchmaking is unisex – notably through intermediate-sized cases –and thus definitely made for both him AND her.

TAG HEUER

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT

Vintage Rally Healey Automatic CHF 1’595.–

LONGINES

Longines Heritage Classic – Tuxedo CHF 2’850.–

Carrera 160 years Montreal Limited Edition CHF 6’600.–

ZENITH

Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” CHF 8’400.–

THE WATER CHAMPION

The new Delfin Mecano is forged from the same DNA as its brilliant 1960s forerunner, able to function perfectly at up to 200m deep, thanks to the Edox Double O-ring seals. Edox has

given the watch face an eye-catching makeover with a skeletonised movement exposing some of the intricate motions of the stunning Calibre 853. Delfin – The Water champion.

EDITOR’S PICKS Sélection

Sculptures Sculptures

BOVET BY PININFARINA MB&F

CYRUS

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Horological Machine No.9

Les extra-terrestres ont leur marque officielle, qui garde pourtant les pieds bien sur terre, même avec une escadrille d’OVNI mécaniques.

Aliens have their official brand, which nonetheless remains firmly grounded, even with a squadron of mechanical UFOs.

CHF 181’000.–

Ottantasei

Quand le pape du design s’associe au sommet de la pyramide horlogère, l’exceptionnel devient simplement intemporel, même avec des grandes complications.

When the ‘design pope’ meets the peak of the watchmaking pyramid, the exceptional becomes timeless, including with Grand Complications.

CHF 215’000.–

Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon

C’est un pont entre les générations d’horlogers, où la modernité du design est suspendue au-dessus du génie horloger séculaire.

A bridge between generations of watchmakers, featuring modern design suspended above age-old horological genius.

CHF 158’000.–

Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Phoenix

La vénérable manufacture perpétue la tradition de pièces uniques vibrant de grandes complications pour collectionneurs très exigeants.

The venerable Manufacture perpetuates the tradition of one-of-a-kind models brimming with Grand Complications and intended for highly demanding collectors.

PRICE ON REQUEST

Dans la classification des arts, la sculpture apparaît en tant que 2e Art et appartient au groupe des Beaux-Arts. Depuis 2012, l’art de la mesure du temps s’est imposé naturellement comme le 12e Art. Les horlogers ont de tous temps utilisé la sculpture pour magnifier leurs garde-temps. Le mariage du 2e Art et du 12e Art a donné naissance à des œuvres de toute forme, séduisant les adeptes des arts classiques ou de l’art contemporain. A chacun son style.

Within the classification of the world’s various arts, sculpture is regarded as the 2nd art and belongs to the ‘Fine Arts’ group. Since 2012, the art of time measurement has naturally established itself as the 12th Art. Watchmakers have always sought to use sculpture to magnify their timepieces. Combining the 2nd Art and the 12th Art has given rise to all kinds of works, appealing to devotees of the classical arts as well as of contemporary art. Each to his (or her) own style !

LAUREN

Countdown to

Noël avant l’heure

Gingerbread, tangerines, biscuits and decorations are taking over the shelves of department stores. Certain colors such as red – a nod to Santa’s traditional costume – gold and silver lighting up Christmas trees are inseparably bound up with this festive period. These magnificent watches decked out in Christmas colors will put a twinkle in the eye of your nearest and dearest.

CLOÉ MUGNY

JOY CORTHÉSY

Breguet

Breguet Classique 7137

BOÎTIER : 39 mm en or blanc 18 carats ; fond en verre saphir étanche à 30 mètres MOUVEMENT : calibre 502.3 ultraplat à remontage automatique ; décor Côtes de Genève ; 256 composants ; 45 heures de réserve de marche FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, date, phases de lune et indicateur de réserve de marche CADRAN : or blanc 18 carats bleui avec motifs guillochés à la main ; chiffres romains et aiguilles Breguet BRACELET : en cuir d’alligator bleu avec boucle déployante en or blanc

Impossible de parler de savoir-faire horloger traditionnel sans mentionner un nom particulièrement vénérable dans ce domaine : Breguet. Abraham-Louis Breguet, l’horloger originel derrière de nombreuses innovations telles que nous les connaissons aujourd’hui, a aussi été un pionnier dans l’utilisation de motifs guillochés traditionnels exécutés à la main sur les cadrans, contribuant ainsi à distinguer les sous-cadrans et les différents indicateurs. Et même dans le monde actuel des montres contemporaines, Breguet et son héritage de savoir-faire horloger traditionnel perdurent, surtout dans la collection Classique de la marque avec le design revisité du modèle 7137 en or blanc.

La montre Classique 7137 présente tous les éléments de design sophistiqués qui caractérisent l’empreinte durable de Breguet en horlogerie : le bleu foncé « Breguet », les aiguilles des heures et des minutes à pointes évidées, la carrure cannelée et les barrettes incurvées, ainsi que les classiques motifs guillochés que la maison aime définir comme « guillochés à la main sur un tour à guillocher ». Breguet est l’une des rares marques utilisant encore l’instrument à guillocher conçu il y a plus d’un siècle et manié par d’habiles artisans dans ses ateliers de la Vallée de Joux. Grâce à cet outil, les horlogers de Breguet créent à la main de complexes motifs sur des cadrans en or : sur la 7137, l’indicateur de réserve de marche entre 10 heures et 11 heures présente un motif en panier, tandis que l’affichage de la date à six heures est pourvu d’un dessin en damier et le cadran principal du plus traditionnel Clous de Paris.

Et malgré toute sa révérence au passé incarnée dans ses chiffres romains, son affichage des phases de lune en relief et ses motifs guillochés, la 7137 est solidement ancrée dans le présent avec son calibre ultraplat à remontage automatique (visible à travers le fond en verre saphir) grâce auquel le boîtier ne fait que 8,65 mm d’épaisseur. Une touche contemporaine sur une pièce classique de l’histoire horlogère. Si au premier coup d’œil le design peut sembler sobre, les différents motifs sur le cadran attirent l’œil encore et encore. Si l’on regarde de très près, on peut même apercevoir la signature secrète de Breguet à midi.

Breguet Classique 7137

CASE : 39 mm in 18K white gold ; sapphire caseback and water-resistant to 30 meters MOVEMENT : extra-thin self-winding Caliber 502.3 ; adorned with Côtes de Genève ; 256 components ; 45-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : Hours, minutes, date, moon-phase and power-reserve indicator DIAL : blued 18K white gold with hand-engraved guilloché pattern ; Roman numerals and Breguet hands STRAP : blue alligator leather with white gold folding clasp

One can hardly talk about traditional watchmaking craftsmanship without mentioning a particularly venerable name in this field : Breguet. The original watchmaker behind many innovations in the industry as we know them today, Abraham-Louis Breguet also pioneered the use of traditional hand-engraved guilloché patterns on dials, helping to differentiate between subdials and different indicators. And even in today’s world of contemporary watches, Breguet and his legacy of traditional watch artisanship lives on, most notably in the brand’s Classique collection wherein it revisited the design of the 7137 model in 18K white gold.

The Classique 7137 bears all the sophisticated design elements that are part of Breguet’s lasting legacy in watchmaking – the deep “Breguet” blue, the familiar hollow-tipped hours and minutes hands, hands, the fluted caseband and curved lugs, as well as the traditional guilloché patterns which the maison likes to refer to as “hand-engraved on a rose engine”. Breguet is one of the few brands out there still using engine-turning lathes designed over a century ago and operated by skilled craftsmen in its Vallée de Joux ateliers. Using these lathes, Breguet’s watchmakers engrave intricate patterns on gold dials : on the 7137, the powerreserve indicator positioned between 10 and 11 o’clock has a “basket weave” motif, a damier (checkerboard) pattern for the date display at 6 o’clock and the more traditional Clous de Paris hobnail variation for the main dial.

And for all the reverence the 7137 displays with its Roman numerals, embossed moon-phase display and guilloché patterns, it is also firmly anchored in the present with its extra-thin selfwinding caliber (visible through the sapphire caseback), making the case a total of just 8.65 mm thick. A contemporary twist on a classic piece of horological history. While at first glance the design may seem restrained, the differing patterns on the dial draw the eye in again and again. If you look very closely, you might even catch Breguet’s secret signature at 12 o’clock.

Technique

DAVID CHOKRON

Asymétries en équilibre

Subtly balanced asymmetry

La symétrie est un dogme de design… qui est fait pour qu’on en joue. En horlogerie, cette désobéissance est une quasi-obligation qui procure dynamique, différence, désirabilité.

Les apparences sont parfois trompeuses. On pourrait ainsi croire que l’horlogerie applique strictement les règles de la symétrie. Quoi de plus normal après tout, puisqu’elle régit la quasi-totalité du design. La montre, objet essentiellement rond qui plus est, ne devrait pas y échapper. Sauf qu’en réalité, elle la remplace avantageusement par un autre ordonnancement, basé sur un respect des proportions, des pondérations, des compensations visuelles. Asymétrie, d’accord. Déséquilibre, non !

Symmetry is a design dogma… that is made to be played around with. In watchmaking, this form of disobedience can be seen as almost an obligation, resulting in dynamism, difference and desirability.

Appearances can be deceptive. People might think that watchmaking strictly applies the rules of symmetry. That would indeed seem entirely natural, since this principle governs almost all design and watches – as essentially round objects – would naturally also be subject to its dictates. In actual fact, however, horology generally implements an approach based on respecting proportions, weightings and visual compensations. Asymmetry is perfectly acceptable, but imbalance is definitely not the name of the game.

JACOB & CO. Astronomia Clarity

EFFET MIROIR

Certains sont des tenants de l’orthodoxie symétrique. Ils sont légion et utilisent généralement un axe unique, vertical, qui sépare la montre en deux. Il traverse le logo et les aiguilles en plein centre. Seule la couronne vient perturber, ô combien légèrement, ce paysage calme. Loin de briser la règle, une petite seconde à 6 heures offre un ancrage, un lest qui satisfait notre sens de l’orientation dans l’espace. Les designers horlogers ont d’autant plus de mérite quand ils s’expriment avec une matière réticente, comme les montres squelette. Sans cadran pour le cacher, le mouvement s’y impose et il est par définition hors des règles de symétrie. Alors pour faire mentir ces contraintes, Arnold & Son a imaginé l’architecture de mouvement en étoile des Nebula. Pas un, ni deux, mais quatre axes régissent son apparence. Les barillets se répondent, le balancier équilibre la petite seconde, presque tout est en trompe-l’œil, mais les pondérations sont si bien respectées qu’on se laisse volontiers abuser. 

MIRROR EFFECTS

There is a widespread preference for symmetrical orthodoxy, which generally involves adopting a single vertical axis that separates the watch in two, running through the logo and central hands. Only the crown slightly disturbs this serene landscape. Far from breaking the rule, a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock offers anchorage, a ballast that satisfies our sense of spatial orientation. Watch designers are all the more deserving of praise when they express themselves through a difficult medium, as in skeleton watches. Without a dial to conceal it, the movement takes center stage while by definition escaping the rules of symmetry. To overcome these constraints, Arnold & Son has devised the star-shaped movement architecture of the Nebula, whose appearance is governed by not one, not two, but instead four different axes. The barrels mirror each other, the balance offsets the small seconds subdial, almost everything is trompe-l’oeil, yet the respective visual weightings are so cleverly thought out that one is easily fooled.

ARNOLD & SON Nebula 38 HAMILTON Ventura

La répartition des cadrans Lange 1 chez A. LANGE & SÖHNE The layout of Lange 1 dials by A. LANGE & SÖHNE

HOW LONG IS FOREVER?

ZAKAA, Transcorp Hilton Abuja

TRICHERIES

Ainsi, toute tricherie est la bienvenue. Elle peut être légère, comme la Calatrava 6006 de Patek Philippe, qui décale sa petite seconde à 5 heures. Ou MB&F qui fait glisser la LM Flying T, dont le cadran est presque debout et posé à 7 heures. Puis il y a ceux qui jouent subtilement des déséquilibres, à tel point qu’ils n’en sont pas toujours. L’exemple le plus marquant est à trouver chez A. Lange & Söhne. Dans la famille Lange 1, les cadrans sont excentrés. Heures et minutes d’un côté, seconde plus haut et grande date ailleurs. Mais leur répartition suit un triangle équilatéral qui relie les centres de ces indications, en accrochant au passage l’aiguille de réserve de marche. Girard-Perregaux dispose les indications de sa Laureato Annual Calendar ailleurs qu’aux quatre points cardinaux. La date est à 1 h 30 et à 5 heures le pointeur du mois dont le guichet s’étend de 4 h 10 à 7 heures. A nouveau, tout se répond. D’autres s’affranchissent tout bonnement de la règle pour entrer sur un territoire revendiqué d’asy-

CHEATING

Any form of cheating is thus welcome. It can be of a very gentle variety, as in Patek Philippe’s Calatrava 6006, which shifts its small seconds to 5 o’clock. MB&F has chosen to gently ‘tilt’ the LM Flying T, on which the almost upright dial is intriguingly poised at 7 o’clock. Then there are those that subtly play with imbalances, to the point where they can no longer be described as such. The most striking example is the Lange 1 collection by A. Lange & Söhne with its off-centered dials featuring hours and minutes on one side, small seconds higher up and a big date on the other side. Yet their distribution follows an equilateral triangle connecting the centers of these indications, while also taking in the powerreserve hand. Girard-Perregaux places the indications of its Laureato Annual Calendar elsewhere than at the four cardinal points. The date appears between 1 and 2 o’clock, while the month pointer sits at 5 o’clock framed by an aperture stretching from 4.10 to 7 o’clock. Once again, everything has its visual counterpart. Oth-

CARTIER Tank Asymétrique

GIRARD-PERREGAUX Laureato Annual Calendar

métrie. Cartier en fournit deux exemples frappants. La Tank Asymétrique est organisée autour d’un axe décalé de 30 degrés par rapport à la verticale. La Crash, elle, boxe dans la catégorie inclassable, déformée mais pourtant harmonieuse.

PONDÉRATION

Enfin, certaines complications forcent la main des designers qui doivent les habiller. Les heures vagabondes, comme la Cabinotiers The Singing Birds de Vacheron Constantin, imposent un secteur des minutes de l’ordre de 120 degrés. Cela laisse un grand espace disponible à l’imagination du créateur. Ou alors une rotation permanente défie toutes les règles. Chez Ressence, marque créée et dirigée par un designer, ou dans le cas de l’Astronomia de Jacob & Co., la cinématique fait oublier toute idée du canon symétrique. Vraiment, il faut se méfier des apparences, surtout celles des photographies, et expérimenter.

ers simply break the rules to enter deliberately asymmetrical territory. Cartier provides two striking examples. The Tank Asymétrique is organized around an axis shifted 30° to the right. The Crash, on the other hand, is in an unclassified league of its own, distorted yet undeniably visually pleasing.

EQUILIBRIUM

Finally, certain horological complications force the hand of the designers tasked with creating watch exteriors watches to house them. Wandering hours, as in Les Cabinotiers – the singing birds, necessitate an approximately 120-degree minutes sector, thereby leaving plenty of scope for the designer’s imagination. In other instances, constant rotation defies all rules. At Ressence, a brand created and directed by a designer, or in the case of Jacob & Co.’s Astronomia, kinematics make one forget any concept of symmetrical conventions. One must indeed be wary of appearances, especially when seen in pictures only, and instead prepare to experience models for oneself.

PATEK PHILIPPE Calatrava 6006G

RESSENCE Type 1B Slim

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Les Cabinotiers The Singing Birds

Interview

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Jean-Christophe Babin

CEO Bvlgari Group

Quel bilan tirez-vous des Geneva Watch Days que vous avez initiés ?

J’y vois plusieurs dimensions. Le facteur humain de cette initiative était primordial, et cela fut un immense plaisir de retrouver toute la communauté horlogère : détaillants, presse et autres marques. Cette organisation multimarque autogérée, et non plus sous la houlette d’une institution tierce, a fait que ce salon appartenait à tous. Son excellent déroulement est une belle récompense car cela prouve que nous avions raison de ne pas renoncer à 2020. Il existe certes d’autres façons de communiquer avec les détaillants, mais en interne ce fut une source de motivation, d’énergie et d’espoir énorme, et en externe nous avons adressé un message extrêmement fort signifiant qu’il existe des marques qui ne renoncent pas et qui veulent le bien de l’industrie. Je suis content de savoir que certaines sont venues en marge des Geneva Watch Days, et que le leader mondial a présenté ses nouveautés dans la foulée, car

What is your assessment of the Geneva Watch Days that you initiated ?

I see several dimensions to it. The human factor of this initiative was essential, and it was a great pleasure to meet the entire watchmaking community : retailers, the press and other brands. This multi-brand organization, which is self-managed, and no longer under the leadership of a third-party institution, meant that the show belonged to everyone. Its excellent organization is a great reward because it proves that we were right not to give up on 2020. There are certainly other ways of communicating with retailers, but internally it was a source of enormous motivation, energy and hope ; while externally we sent out an extremely strong message that there are brands not prepared to give up and committed to seeking the good of the industry. I’m glad to know that some of them were present on the fringes of Geneva Watch Days, and that the world leader introduced its

©Gabriel de la Cha -

cela fait du bien à toute l’horlogerie. La priorité consistait à faire redémarrer ce marché. En ce qui concerne Bvlgari, nous avons obtenu une couverture média aussi importante que celle que nous avions reçue lors de notre salon LVMH de Dubaï en janvier, qui en valeur était équivalente à celle de Baselworld 2019, en nous concentrant sur les médias les plus influents et les plus significatifs soit en présentiel, soit en interviews digitales. Nous avons, durant quatre jours, couvert absolument toute la planète. D’un point de vue commercial, nous visions les détaillants européens, qui ont généré un chiffre d’affaires moyen très comparable à celui de Dubaï, donc c’est une excellente opération. Comme les frais étaient relativement limités, le retour sur investissement s’avère très satisfaisant. D’autant que nous avons présenté nos nouveautés, au même moment, en vidéo conférence au reste de notre réseau de distribution, qui les a reçues en mains propres la semaine suivante et a commandé dans la foulée.

new models in the wake of the event, because that is good for the entire watch industry. The priority was to restart this market. As far as Bvlgari is concerned, we obtained as much media coverage as we received at our LVMH show in Dubai in January, which was equivalent in value to that of Baselworld 2019, by focusing on the most influential and significant media, either in-person or through digital interviews. We literally covered the entire planet during these four days. From a commercial point of view, we were targeting European retailers, who generated an average turnover very comparable to that of Dubai, making it a highly successful operation. Since costs were relatively low, return on investment was excellent. Especially as we presented our new products at the same time by video conference to the rest of our distribution network, who received them physically the following week and ordered right away.

Quel format d’expo privilégierez-vous le printemps prochain ? C’est le début d’une nouvelle ère, car les salons ne seront plus jamais comme avant. Tout le monde sait dorénavant que nous avons accompli un événement très abordable et extrêmement luxueux. La combinaison Ritz-Carlton et chapiteau était idéale. Elle aurait pu servir d’écrin à l’un de nos événements de haute joaillerie, que nos équipes mettent sur pieds depuis 30 ans à travers le monde, avec la même obsession du détail et du luxe. Pour le printemps prochain, la FHH n’a pas accepté la candidature de Bvlgari pour intégrer Watches & Wonders, donc nous allons nous en passer et entreprendre un événement aux mêmes dates, très similaire à celui que nous venons de créer. C’est un format de salon bien meilleur que les salons historiques, et qui leur sera de toute façon supérieur quelle que soit leur évolution du fait de leurs difcultés de gouvernance. Nous mettrons en place exactement ce dont nous aurons besoin : une approche digitale, ouverte au public, décentralisée, autogérée, avec un rapport qualité-prix et un retour sur investissement hyper élevés. Nous proposerons cette formule en priorité aux marques de LVMH avec qui nous avons une relation naturelle, celles des Geneva Watch Days, sans doute d’autres belles marques car je pense qu’il est important d’être nombreux.

What exhibition format will you be using next spring ? It’s the start of a new era, because trade shows will never be the same again. Everybody now knows that we have managed to stage a very affordable and extremely luxurious event. The Ritz-Carlton plus marquee combination was ideal. It could easily have served as the setting for one of our high jewelry events, which our teams have been holding for 30 years around the world with the same obsession for detail and luxury. For next spring, the FHH has not accepted Bvlgari’s bid to join Watches & Wonders, so we’re going to do without it and undertake an event on the same dates, very similar to what we’ve just created. It’s a much better format than the previous shows, and which will be superior to them in any case, whatever their evolution due to their governance difculties. We will set up exactly what we need : a digital approach, open to the public, decentralized, self-managed, with a very high quality/price ratio and likewise favorable return on investment. We will offer this formula as a priority to the LVMH brands with which we have a natural relationship, those of the Geneva Watch Days, and no doubt other fine brands, because I think numbers are also important.

«

C’est le début d’une nouvelle ère, car les salons ne seront plus jamais comme avant. »

“This is the dawn of a new era, because trade shows will never be the same again.”

Est-ce important aujourd’hui de compléter votre offre avec une collection de montres très accessibles telle qu’Aluminium que vous venez de dévoiler ? Je pense que c’est la réalisation la plus importante de l’année, et nous aurions dû y penser il y a trois ans, quand le marché horloger s’est essoufflé. On est toujours plus intelligent avec cinq ans de recul que deux, et les autres segments du marché avaient continué à croître, mais les Millennials manquaient dans l’équation. La collection Aluminium leur est destinée et a été conçue comme « ma première montre suisse de luxe », au look sympa et abordable. C’est comme la première voiture, on s’en souvient toujours. Il y a une valeur émotionnelle dans la première montre qui est énorme. Elle va les faire intégrer la tribu Bvlgari, or on sait que la plupart des gens qui achètent Bvlgari une fois se portent ensuite acquéreurs dans les 18 mois d’un nouveau produit : accessoire, bijou, montre, parfum, sac ou séjour dans un hôtel. J’espère que d’autres marques horlogères vont nous emboîter le pas et s’adresser aux Millennials de manière holistique afin de créer un effet boule de neige.

Bvlgari établit par ailleurs un 6e record du monde avec l’Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronographe Squelette Automatique, celui-là est particulier ? Quand on aime l’horlogerie, se voir proposer ces complications fusionnées par le squelettage est extraordinaire, on est au pinacle de la belle mécanique haut de gamme. De mon point de vue, c’est la plus équilibrée de toutes les Finissimo, avec un rapport diamètre épaisseur parfait. Notre chronographe est exceptionnel, et comme Bvlgari est aussi l’un des principaux constructeurs suisses de tourbillons, ce record du monde et cette nouveauté constituent une étape majeure dans la mesure où ce produit extraordinaire va continuer à évoluer. Durant les deux premiers jours des Geneva Watch Days, 10 de cette série limitée de 50 pièces avaient déjà été vendus.

Interview en version intégrale sur : worldtempus.com

Is it important today to round out your offer with a very accessible watch collection such as Aluminium that you have just unveiled ?

I think it’s the most important achievement of the year, and we should have thought of it three years ago, when the watch market ran out of steam. One is always smarter with five years’ hindsight rather than two, and the other markets had continued to grow, but Millennials were missing from the equation. The Aluminium collection is designed for them and was conceived as “my first Swiss luxury watch”, with a pleasing and affordable look. It’s like our first car, we always remember it. There is enormous emotional value in that first watch. It will make them part of the Bvlgari tribe, but we know that most people who buy Bvlgari once will then within 18 months buy a new product : accessory, jewelry, a watch, perfume, a bag or a hotel stay. I hope that other watch brands will follow suit and address the Millennials in a holistic way to create a snowball effect.

Bvlgari is also setting a sixth world record with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic ; why is this one particularly special ?

For someone who loves watchmaking, to be offered these complications effectively merged by openworking is extraordinary. It represents the pinnacle of beautiful top-of-the-range mechanical horology. From my point of view, it is the most balanced of all Finissimo models, with a perfect diameter to thickness ratio. Our chronograph is exceptional, and as Bvlgari is also one of the leading Swiss tourbillon producers, this world record and this new product constitute a major step forward in that this extraordinary product will continue to evolve. Ten watches in this 50-piece limited series had already been sold during the first two days of Geneva Watch Days. Find the complete interview on worldtempus.com

«

Notre 6e record du monde constitue une étape majeure dans le développement de Bvlgari. »

“Our sixth world record is a major milestone in Bvlgari’s development.”

Interview

SEZNO BENSON

Oliver Ebstein CEO Chronoswiss

What’s the story and moments behind buying Chronoswiss?

I had always been a huge fan of Chronoswiss and had been admiring the brand´s history and its role in the renaissance of the mechanical wristwatch in the 1980´s and 90´s. So when I was introduced to the founder and former owner and he told us he was looking for a successor, I took a chance.

How has been the on going journey

Of course, to me it often feels like a dream come true, although there are also demanding times for a family company, especially in this crazy year we´re in. Leading a watch brand has proved to be a huge challenge, but also a very rewarding and exciting one.

What has transformed since you bought the brand?

First of all, when I became CEO of Chronoswiss, I introduced plans for a new headquarters. After relocating the brand to the beautiful city of Lucerne in Switzerland, I am proud we managed to establish our very own inhouse atelier with facilities for highfire enamelling and rose-engine turning, as well as other historic techniques, such as the skeletonization of dials and movements. It was not easy to get hold of the equipment as this is mostly historic, too. But we succeeded in finding two ancient rose-engines, and also the capability to operate them. Apart from this, it was quite a long process of streamlining the collection and sharpen our profile. In order to do so, we realized we had to go back to the roots of the brand, i.e. the Regulator model (which was the first real Chronoswiss timepiece), and decided to focus on regulator style dials with a modern approach on design and materials.

How have the models and references moved from then to now?

Soon after the launch of the first Chronoswiss Regulator, the brand was well-known among watch enthusiasts and was growing and prospering. However, it was not until my wife and I decided to buy the company from the former owner, Mr. Lang, when he retired in 2012, that the iconic Regulator model was given the full attention and became the center of a whole collection. Our aim was to focus on the brand´s very own DNA, so we

chose to reinterpret the regulator-style dial for the 21st century and created what we call the “Flying” Regulator with its innovative, 3-D dial constructed on several levels (to the effect that the top level seems to float or to “fly”…). With every year, there are new complications and varieties, all being based on the Regulator. So the history of the brand has always been linked to our most important model.

You are just launching your first Tourbillon ? Please tell us about this story ?

To be precise, it´s not our first: In the year 2000, Chronoswiss had already created the word’s first regulator tourbillon, called Régulateur à Tourbillon. To celebrate the 20th anniversary of this achievement, we decided to design a new interpretation –a modern mechanical timekeeper with a unique regulator setup and a hypnotizing handmade guilloche. It will be launched shortly (Oct 22), so please watch out for it.

How has Patrik Hoffmann, for CEO of Ulysse Nardin , been significant in your rebuking and transformation ?

Patrik has been a close friend of the family and the team for many years now and he is an excellent sparring partner when it comes to the watch industry. He has a vast knowledge in the industry and a sharp mind and often acts as the devil´s advocate. He helped us a lot to push the Regulator Story Strategy forward.

What is today the precise DNA of the brand?

Apart from the regulator aspect mentioned above, our DNA is defined by what we like to call “Modern Mechanical” horology: The courage and ability to dissolve the conventions of customary watchmaking in order to create fascinating timepieces combining both century-old handcrafts and innovative materials and technologies.

We are aware that your wife and you have travelled in Africa and love Africa , tell us a little about this Africa is a dream! We love the people and the endless variety of the wild countryside. The wide open space is a real luxury.

«

Our DNA is defined by what we like to call “Modern Mechanical” horology »

Before marrying my wife, we went on a long journey from South Africa to Namibia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Malawi, Zambia and Tansania, for a couple of month, only with the bare essentials, an old Toyota truck and a tent.

Did this in anyway influence your decision to invest in Nigeria ?

Not really. For me, an investment is based on people, trust and the product (in this case, Deremi’s business).

How did you meet your partner in Nigeria , Deremi Ajidahun

? What’s plans do you have together for the brand in Nigeria.

I met Deremi some years ago in Basel for the first time. I had a good feeling from the very beginning. It was this year when we met again in Geneva and Deremi got convinced about the product. I guess also for him it is the same: people and product.

So far, I only know little about Nigeria, but I trust Deremi is the perfect partner. I am very much looking forward to learn more about this fascinating country.

Have you ever been to Nigeria ?

No, not yet- but I hope to get a chance to visit soon 

Who do you see as your target market :

The Chronoswiss customer is a non-conformist person with

a strong mind who looks for something different. He or she is more interested in the quality and « savoir faire » of a product than in the brand name itself. With todays digitalization and the vast amount of online platforms/channels it gets more difcult to talk about a specific target market. We have Chronoswiss customers in all age groups and from very different backgrounds.

Partnering with a seasoned luxury retailer , how will you manage the pandemic crisis , will it slow down your plans and when do you expect to be fully running 100%. A crisis such as the one we are experiencing right now always slows you down. We had a difcult start into the year with a lot of uncertainties. With a 100% commited team that lives to the customer´s personal service expectations and fully understands what it means to be close and trustworthy with our partners I see good potential for the rest of the year. Unfortunately, we will only be able to get back to 100% next year and only, if we are not experiencing a new lockdown.

Finally do you have any message for your future potential Nigerian

clients

While climbing the Kilimanjaro, I learned that personal victories are satisfying but shared victories are sublime.

« Africa is a dream! We love the people and the endless variety of the wild countryside.»

Interview

SEZNO BENSON

Micheal Owolabi

CEO Il Bagno Group

We have watched the amazing growth of your design and lifestyle company. When and how did it all start?

The IL Bagno dream started in the 2003. I was in a transition period in my career and at a point was focused on building my family home, I found out that there was a gap in the market for quality fittings in general but especially bathroom fittings.

The search for quality took me all the way to South Africa and I thought that it was weird for a country so large not to have good solutions. In faraway South Africa, the seeds of my business was born. I have not looked back since. I came back to Nigeria and in May 2004, we opened our doors

Why the names IL Bagno and Black Pelican ?

We decided from the start to have a holding structure and therefore formally registered our company as Black Pelican Limited.

We set out to be an exceptional company and to provide exceptional service and since pelicans are usually white, we decided we would be the black pelican in a sea of white pelicans. Today, Black Pelican has 5 trade names for our 5 business divisions ; the largest of which is ‘IL Bagno’ (the others are BPL Wellness; Bagno Technik; Bagno Logistix and Bathrooms Direct). IL Bagno simply means ‘the bathroom’ in Italian and it highlights our initial focus on bathrooms. It was different, unusual and sums up the essence of what we were trying to do back in 2004 when we started.

You are a lawyer and was once a banker ? Which assets from those have you brought into your current business.

I have graduate and post graduate degrees in Law but went straight into banking from Law School. I had always wanted to

©Gabriel de la Chapelle

be an investment banker. Whilst in university, I had read tales of wealthy investment bankers from Europe to America. Books like ‘Barbarians at the Gate’ detailed the exploits of Michael Milken, Ivan Boesky, Henry Kravis and Ron Perelman. My head with filled with dreams of great wealth, exciting days and sleepless nights. So my sojourn in banking was quite deliberate, law was just a platform for achieving it. Banking helped shape my perspective about business and taught me corporate structuring and how to see and assess opportunities. I learnt how to manage people, negotiate complex transactions and make decisions quickly. My background in law is invaluable in understanding corporate agreements, negotiation and risk management. These skills have helped significantly in my business journey.

We’re aware that you work closely with your wife, how does that work for both of you ? Who’s the regular boss ?

This is one question I get asked a lot. The answer is simple; my wife is the regular boss for sure. Whilst she is a loving, smart and beautiful Christian woman, she has nerves of steel and is quite firm. I therefore find it more expedient to give up quickly during conflicts.

LOL

On a more serious note, working with her has helped grow the business exponentially. She steadies the ship and manages risk and finances much better than I can. I can easily bet the house on a single good idea whilst she takes a more conservative, step by step approach. Her sensible way sometimes frustrates my killer instincts but I quickly concede that her careful instinct is often correct and we therefore make a great team. My wife is calm and methodical and is an inspiration to me in many areas of life and business. She is also a more approachable people person and that balances my tougher exterior

Which brands do you have within your companies ? Tell us more precisely about these brands and their products. We like to see ourselves as solution providers. We are 1 company with 5 trade names and 75 brands offering 13 solutions

(Bathrooms, Wellness, Marble& tiles, Doors & windows, Gym Equipment, Kitchens & appliances, Lighting, Switches & Sockets, Furniture, Healthcare, Garage solutions, Railings and Industrial and Personal safes) . Our biggest partners include Laufen, Duravit, Technogym, Poliform and Oikos. We are quite focused on providing solutions and are careful not be simply push products to clients. In looking for partner brands, we pay close attention to what unique solutions each brings to the table and insist that they must be top 3 in their chosen area. We insist that our partners are best in class

How has the Nigerian market responded to your portfolio?

I believe our strong suit as a business is that we are a total interior solutions business; we are the only business in the industry that offers end-to-end solutions in the interior space, from a wide of range of products to warehousing and logistics as well as installation. We are quite fortunate that the market has accepted us the way it has. The last 16years have indeed been exciting but there is so much more to do.

With so many wealthy Nigerians wanting to buy in London, Milan, Dubai, how have you managed to capture and maintain your clientele.

The real challenge is getting the customers to understand the value proposition inherent in buying locally. Starting from an excellent customer experience that appreciates that the customer is king to a guarantee of the highest product quality, timely delivery, installation and after sales service. The wealthy and exposed Nigerian will always buy locally if they can avoid the stress of the ports and are not exploited. The task of showing this is our everyday challenge and we have been fairly successful at demonstrating that value to so many

What’s your experience in difference between the Lagos market and Abuja?

Two areas of difference is in taste and shopping style. So, while

« we are the only business in the industry that offers end-to-end solutions in the interior space. »

a typical Lagos homeowner leans more towards modern contemporary styles, the northern market tend to appreciate classic furniture more. Also, the typical Lagos client will approach us during project planning and may not visit the design center but conduct their business with us by email; the Abuja client will buy closer to when they need it and therefore appreciate a healthy stock position. They are also far more likely to visit in person. We therefore have to approach each market differently and that also explains why our Abuja design center is larger than the one in Lagos.

Where do you spend more of your time ?

I spend my time mostly in Lagos as my family is based in Lagos and London but find myself travelling between Lagos, Abuja and Europe all year. I go where I am needed

In which areas would you want to implement improvements in your businesses ?

We are always growing and essentially improving, so we tend to innovate as we go. From IT solutions to Supply chain practices, we are always trying to improve based on best practices in relation to our market. A key area I would like to focus on is e-commerce.

What are the challenges?

The challenges of living and working in Nigeria are well known. Finding top talent in the age of Canadian emigration, infrastructure constraints (transport network, power, security) and port delays/congestion, cost of capital, high import duties in addition to FX fluctuations make for a cocktail of very interesting and sometimes crippling challenges. Navigating these is the difference between success and failure of any business in Nigeria

What are your feelings about Nigerians with similar businesses finding opportunities to collaborate instead of seeing everything as competition?

The challenge with collaborations in Nigeria is that it is often difficult to find companies and people with similar ideals and value

systems. Once one finds like-minded partners, exploring synergies make for a higher likelihood of success. We all should do this more often. The perception that we are competing against each other must be balanced against the size of the market we operate in. There is still so much to be done.

Have you done previous collaborations or are planning to do so?

We have done several formal and informal collaborations and partnered with businesses within and outside the industry. Once there is a common objective and similar value system, we are usually keen to engage

Now we’re slowly evolving from the recent pandemic how do you see the luxury, design and lifestyle business over the next 12 to 18 months?

Time and again, the luxury and lifestyle business has had to reinvent itself many times especially after market corrections like the stock market crash of 2008 and the more recent crash of 2020 caused by the pandemic. We are called to do so again. More and more businesses in our sector will focus on the details like how products can serve clients and help to keep them safe, how to digitally engage with the market and of course be generally more customer-focused when it comes to marketing because there has been a shift in customer orientation and there is a need to present solutions that make a difference. Some areas will clearly be more affected than others but we will soon recover

And to close, what are the cogent reasons why you have chosen to partner long term with us at GMT Africa?

I think the two most important reasons for partnering with GMT Africa will be your reputation and your reach. Like I mentioned, our selection process for brand partners is a very thorough one that focuses on how our businesses can align. From research and conversation, we understand that our businesses look to reach the discerning clients who understand luxury lifestyle and that’s an alignment right there.

Interview

SEZNO BENSON

Leopold Cavalli

CEO Visionaire

What is the story and moments behind becoming CEO of Visionnaire

How has it been the on going ongoing journey and are you purely a family company ?

You are top CEO and also known to be a product and marketing guru ! We know your sister is deeply involved, how do you work together ? We want to know more !

1959: marks the founding of the historic Italian company IPE, by the brothers Pompeo, Carlo and Vittorio Cavalli. Their entrepreneurial adventure in the world of furnishings, specializing in

upholstered pieces marked by unrivaled engineering and stylistic innovation for the times, was a great success. During the 1970s the se-cond generation of the family joined the firm, represented by Vittorio’s son, Luigi Cavalli (my father) who envi-sioned and implemented the brand’s expansion on an international scale. Halfway through the 1990s Luigi’s children, me Leopold and my sister Eleonore (my best partner in crime! She is now the Art Director of Vision-naire and she is in charge of all the marketing department all over the world), became involved, launching a new initiative with our father which led to the birth of Visionnaire in 2004. The

new operation involved offering with a purely original character: an anomaly within the galaxy of Made in Italy brands – and elsewhere – gen-erating products of extroverted design, with the ability to define – as the first of the first.

A field of action that would extend from the painstaking formulation of each individual object, to its projection into the environmental dimension, producing detailed volumes of every size, designed to respond to an infinite range of personal requirements. Hence, Visionnaire has created a totally unique concept driven by a tailor-made approach, fastidious refinement, inventive ideas and exceptional workmanship, and turned it into a true trademark, and in the process, redefining the term “luxury” in utterly unprecedented ways. Visionnaire envisions new worlds focused upon individual identities, and in so doing, sets a new bar for successful residen-tial design. In short, it represents the pinnacle of reference, guiding a revolution of taste in the realm of interiors, but more importantly codifying the principles for a new philosophy of life.

Visionnaire sets a style – creates a new language – that has a character of unexpected invention, formulated to reveal an expressive universe that knows no thematic bounds and places no restrictions on experimental investigation. The force of this way of interpreting an entrepreneurial mission lies in the ability to forge beyond limits, to extend the company’s action over the threshold of the possible, fulfilling desires and visions previously relegated to the realm of the unachievable.

Visionnaire loves complexity, finding solutions through extreme research, bringing together distant worlds and combining the multiple forms of art with the positive excitement found in the dimension of dreams.

Since 2010 Visionnaire has included stakeholders from international investment funds but the brand’s primary orientation and characteristics have remained unchanged: its creative action, communication and spread have been further expanded, taking on the character of a truly unique phenomenon.

How have you transformed the company since you took over ? Under my leadership the company has been transformed from industrial to a reality of craftsmanship and art. I wanted to take up the challenge of fulfilling the dreams of a high-spending clientele looking for emotional projects characterized by heavy custo-

mizations. Our clients are the most creatives in the world, they turn to us and they find a strong personality in our language; It often happens to design with them the house of their dreams. Our way of designing involves constant exposure to risk, to a much greater extent than is usually associated with the activity of the entrepreneur: it is the risk connected with the desire to test limits, to probe extremes, to venture beyond what is considered permissible or advisable. It is also the risk implied in invention. The love of a challenge, approached with courage, is part of the genetic background of Visionnaire and comes substan-tially from a taste for play, and a vital ability to apply this playful spirit as a driving force to create something extraordinary, incorporating ample quantities of invention and imagination. Only through ingenious action is it possible to fulfill a calculated desire to generate daydreams, to give concrete form to the most exciting and necessary illusions, to those mirages or fantasies that against all expectations should – and can – be made reachable, tangible, real. For Visionnaire the belief in utopian achievements is a programmatic need; like the need to produce, through activities and realizations, signals of discontinuity with the sta- tus quo, examples of violation of the practices that foster standardization, uniformity and neutrality. Our ingenuity is manifested – with all its force – in the conscious will to grant depth to fantasy and invention, producing artifacts and spaces with cogent expressive identities, anti-aseptic creations that have a positive influence on our lifestyles. This courage in the face of risk, which Visionnaire pursues by nurturing a sense of intelligent irony, is the most pow-erful tool of creative extroversion to pay tribute to an “o -standard,” irregular redeeming presence in our eve-ryday lives.

What is your description of Visionnaire today ? And where do you believe it sits in the premium world of interiors ? Why are you considered Best of the Best ? What are the immediate plans for the future ?

Visionnaire is a meta-luxury brand of reference in the sector of interior design Made in Italy, renowned for its one-of-a-kind design prowess tailored to respond to the desires of its clients. The brand operates in over 55 countries, thanks to over 30 exclusive monobrand stores and a network of department store and multibrand showrooms all over the world. Since 2004 Visionnaire has formulated a distinctive style, based on lively experi-mentation

Visionnaire sets a style –creates a new language – that has a character of unexpected invention

on materials, volumes of unexpected poise and inimitable motifs that reveal the totally Italian background of the company. Thanks to the collaboration with a team of eclectic, visionary Italian and foreign designers, the company is an ideal partner for bespoke proposals in residential and contract applications, lux-ury hotellerie, as well as the yachting and aviation sectors. The brand bases its activity on the value of knowledge and continuing research on the concept of contemporary beauty, confirming its exceptional abil-ity to create design projects and products of outstanding sartorial workmanship, fostering and restoring value to the skills of local artisans located across the Italian territory. The meta-luxury of contents and values is re-flected in the responsible use of materials, through technological research conducted by the company and investments to boost the efciency of its chain of production. Visionnaire relies on a network of over 30 crafts hubs located all over the country, enabling the company to create extraordinary, unique objects: mixing and matching materials, applying the skills of artisans to test, perfect and define new compositional and material solutions, defining the identity of every single product by making it unique and inimitable, though also ready for reproduction. Visionnaire also makes a rigorous, responsible commitment to its territory. This desire to protect our natural heritage and human capital – outlined in the artbook-manifesto “Decàlogo” leads to awareness that informs and orients the company’s cultural vision, from the selection of materials to the final touches of workmanship required by production cycles, taking on a precise, intense ethical position. In 2019 Visionnaire obtained the certifications FSC® Forest Stewardship Council® C147146 and PEFC™ Programme for Endorsement of Forest Certification, with the goal of orienting clients towards responsible management of forest heritage and of guaranteeing that the wood varieties utilized come from legal sources and certified supply chains. Visionnaire also has ISO 9001 certification since 2011, ensuring respect for qualitative standards of management, within a wider-ranging project of protection and development of Italian know-how, based on the choice of creating products entirely in Italy, over the last sixty years.

We are here to also talk about Visionnaire’s relationship with Nigeria! What are your investments plans to expand in Nigeria ?

We have big plans for Africa and Nigeria is a central important country in Africa. We believe that Abuja is the starting point to implement our brand awarness in Africa. And most of all, we are convinced to have found “the perfect partner” in there. Nettetal, Zakaa, part of Hole 19 group, is the right “nest” for Visionnaire . They have the know how and the experience on how to comunicate a luxury brand, the proper locations and the right networking. It is going to be an excellent debut !

Whilst you have several retailers on the continent you are currently building a mono Space in Abuja, Nigeria. How is that going for you ?

Together with our partner Hole19, we are completing a mediumlarge self-standing store In Abuja, which will be inaugurated in the spring of 2021.

Who are your partners ? How did you meet ? What are the synergies that will make it work ? Tell us more !

We met at Salone del Mobile 2019 Exhibition and immediately we had an extraordinary alchemy. We share the same approach to the luxury world.

How will your project change the landscape of interiors in Nigeria

Our company provides a 360-degree activity on any house environments, offering a total customization of the spaces: from the living areas, to wellness and dehors, we are able to deliver turnkeys projects made to meas-ure for each of our clients. This is the piece of news, compared to local retailers that sell the single product which then must be put in dialogue with different brands. Therefore, our store is a unique entity on the Nigerian market, there is also the possibility of having a confer-ence room that puts the customer in direct dialogue with the creative direction and production in Italy.

Uniqueness, contemporary style and a vocation for production Made in Italy are the fundamental values of our brand, which has succeeded in rapidly conquering leadership on the international luxury design scene by offering a luxury total look, with customised details. Visionnaire now has a collection of over 2500 products: due to the collaboration of a team of expert, eclectic and visionary Italian and foreign designers, it offers itself as an ideal partner for bespoke luxury furnishings in private and contract contexts, in luxury hotels and in the yachting and aviation sec-

tors.

Visionnaire, thanks to the character of its way of working, has contributed in a significant way to renew the parameters involved in the definition of luxury in the field of contemporary furnishings. The company’s work has suggested going back to question the timeliness of certain terms like “decor” or “ornament,” key expressions through which people have always measured and described the type of style a society recognizes as appropriate to de ne its tastes, to respond to its needs and set the tone of its time. We cherish a concept of luxury based on the painstaking search for the nest materials, unique and rare in their specificity, further enhanced by the skillful and at times novel approach to their workmanship, assembly and finishing. But we also nurture a sincere, deep desire to associate the objective material richness of our solutions with an unmistakable added value offered by meaningful content and newly tuned sensibility, attributing an in neatly precious status to the creation of artifacts with which to establish a direct relationship, a contact of intimate, everyday a action that can generate an authentic sense of personal wellbeing. The wealth of Visionnaire is not a temporary dazzlement channeled by passing fashions, but an ode to magnificence capable of lasting in time, with the ambition of becoming a timeless and therefore always timely classic. The luxury we love is the result of the virtuous harmony between and with our other values: because there is no material more precious than the respect for nature, culture and the legacy of know-how expressed in our work.

You are possibly the first premium brand to invest and open a Mansion ! is this new Mansion same as all Mansions around the world and are you planning further expansions ?

Visionnaire, a reference brand in top of the range Made in Italy interior design, now operates in over 55 coun-tries with a chain of 30 single-brand stores and a large network of selected luxury multi-brand and department stores all over the world. This is the

first “Visionnaire Maison» in Africa, we have high expectations from this pro-ject knowing that we have so much potential; also because even before the advent of this store, the market became familiar with us in Europe, this is the reason why there are several properties on the territory with our furniture purchased in the major European capitals.

When will your Visionnaire Mansion be ready to receive customers ?

In March 2021

Please explain ideas behind the different names for your spaces, like Mansion ?

Visionnaire Maision» are the medium and large self-standing stores that offer a wide display of products and also have interior design service. Instead, we call «boutiques» the stores with a more retail approach, which are usually inside the furniture malls.

The continent is crying out for real investment, there are rich clients with top disposable income, but yet too much of this is spent in Europe. Do you have any comments about how this might begin to change ?

Why are so many Nigerians still buying furniture in Milan, London and Dubai ?

This has been the situation until today because we were lacking a store in the nation. The Mansion in Abuja will change this scheme: customers will have the possibility to reach the store easily and the service they will expe-rience will be equal to what we can offer in our flagship store in Milan, for example, they will not only have the access to the product but also to the entire design service. In particular, the possibility of having all the services related to installation, assistance and warranty extension.

Are you aware of the knockoff products of your brand and

other luxury furniture brands ? What are you doing to contain this ?

Unfortunately, the problem of imitations affects the Italian design industry overall and it can hardly be stopped. The company aims to make products with certified materials and controlled emissions, these products are not harmful to health and respect the environment. The fake market does not follow these behavior rules. Moreover, like other luxury brands in the fashion sector are already doing, our products are under-tagged with microchips, this system enables the customer to get in direct contact with a dedicated service based in the Italian headquarters.

Visionnaire believes in the quality of the inimitable. To concentrate on the imagining and subsequent imple-mentation of every single object, honing it down to the smallest details, with the dedication and precision usually applied only to the most important projects. This is the approach with which Visionnaire resolves the paradox of the single-multiple, expressing a credo that goes beyond the idea of distinction between “one-o ” and “multiple,” positioning unique craftsmanship and serial production at opposite poles of material produc-tion and reproduction. Our “fabrication” explores and asserts an idea of repeatable uniqueness, a singularity that is multiplied, keep-ing the same contents of quality and value intact in each single piece. Every of our creations is unique, inimi-table, unmistakable, exceptional, although it is made in identical specimens of reiterated types. There are no copies of an ideal original, but exemplars crafted with the same maniacal attention to detail that goes into the making of an individual masterpiece. Visionnaire creates ambitious models that incorporate characteristics of absolute specificity: the precious quality of the selected materials – often unique

in their own right – is joined by the precision of sartorial workmanship that leads to the formulation of a high-end product. The uniqueness of our creative and productive action takes on exceptional connotations within the specific ability to orchestrate complete environments, totally custom made: it is in these projects that Visionnaire demonstrates the extraordinary individuality of its offerings, an effective and original combination of the nest craftsmanship and industrial expertise .

Africans are very eager to rebuild their societies and appreciate the brands who invest, how do you con-tinue to build on your pioneer status ?

The intention of Visionnaire is to interpret the contemporary world through a gradual synthesis of forms. The new range of products and accessories, which always stand out for their fine workmanship, exceptional materials and light geometric construction, reveal a unique line of expressive evolution that interprets the term “luxury” in new and more meaningful ways. Visionnaire prepares its approach to upcoming challenges with the idea of setting off on a new, even more ambitious journey, relying on the results achieved and applying its experience to formulate a clear vision of the immediate future. Also thanks to the decision – perceived as a true necessity that could no longer be postponed – to reveal its strategic orientations through the statements of intent contained in the “Deca-logue, the Brand has plotted its course: the idea of acting as the creators of products of absolute quality is joined by a rigorous, responsible commitment to take care of the environment. In the second value of the “Decalogue” – “Nature” – Visionnaire states: “the desire to safeguard our natural heritage takes the form of vital awareness that informs and orients

our cultural vision, focusing on aspects of design behavior that take on the value of theoretical gestures and practices useful to express a precise, perceptible civil commitment, from the selection of materials all the way to the finishing touches of the manufacturing cycle.” Visionnaire has been ISO 9001 certified since 2011 and this year is obtaining FSC™ Forest Stewardship Council and PEFC™ Program for Endorsement of Forest Certification to demonstrate its loyalty in achieving the global goal to di-rect the market towards a responsible management of forest heritage.

Do you have any brand theme about Africa currently? Do you have plans to gear up on this sometime in the future ? It is also very well received internationally. In our future collections, Africa will undoubtedly have an increasing influence on our creative direction. For us, Africa is a source of inspiration for the positive values of sharing and for the beauty of nature. Already, the 2020 collection wants to be a tribute to this extraordinary country. The capsule collection designed by Mauro Lipparini , presented during one of three live shows streamed in June from the former cinema Cavour, now Visionnaire’s flagshisptore in Milano, It is a tribute to Africa. From his Florentine studio overflowing with Japanese atmospheres, the architect set off on a creative and metaphorical journey, landing deep in Sub-Saharan Africa. In doing so, he has touched the “almost disarming beauty” of the world’s navel — the one of tribal tattoos and vibrant colors — but also the primordial balance between the poles of existence, like the male principle (including chiaroscuro and vigorous lines) and that of the female (curved and gentle lines). Materials, colors, finishes, contrasts: it all recalls the African inspiration for Mauro Lipparini’s capsule collection, which offers original solutions for the entrance, living area, dining room, and bedroom. “I like the

idea of a culture of dreams, of the imaginary, of deep Africa, a new force, inspirational, and magnetic,” explained the architect. “Signs and designs that approach an ancestral dimension, rediscovering the pleasure of the singularity of diversity. “Osborne” it is a project that represents the evolution of boiserie, a wall-system flaunting numerous functions that is presented as a tailored yet performing wall unit. Amber and luminous, at the confines between interior design and architecture, the Osborne wall unit is a second skin that reveals a tribal aesthetic. With a standard height of 260 cm, the undulated forms create functional shelves, while a vein of metal runs along the sides and the section of shelves, speckling the structure in African Eucalyptus Frisè with a reflection of light. Under the shelves, downward facing LED lights underline and punctuate the shelves.

We know that you like your interiors or homes to always have wellness elements, can you expand on for potential Visionnaire clients

The inspiration that guides the stylistic definition of our interiors is the desire to combine the aesthetic en-hancement of the environment with functional needs. We study ad hoc projects able to excite and at the same time convey a profound sense of wellbeing for those who live in the house. Our offer includes the furnishings designed for typical living environments such as the living room, the dining area, the sleeping area, the kitchen and the areas dedicated to entertainment (cinema room and music room); as well as environments dedicated to the personal care and well-being, including the installation of hypersalinizzate bathtub, criosauna, purple effect, thanks to the agreements that we have made with technical players of the fitness and wellness area.

Once the pandemic is clearly over when will we have the pleasure to welcome you to Nigeria “ the mother country “

As soon as possible! Nigeria will certainly be one of my first destinations as soon as travel restrictions will be eased. I look forward to meeting Visionnaire customers from our near future to create and design with them their dream house.

How is Visionnaire managing the pandemic crisis , will it slow down your plans and when do you expect to be fully running 100%

We have had production restrictions for seven weeks, however, we have been 100% productive since the beginning of May. Paradoxically, the pandemic situation has generated a significant increase in the demand, especially among high-spending customers. The fact of not being able to move a lot made the improvement of our home an indispensable priority, for this reason carrying out with more impetus the construction sites of the main villas, houses on which today there is the maximum concentration of expenditure. A strong customi-zation is increasingly required, and Visionnaire is at the very top of the most wanted brands.

Pour la première fois, le designer Eric Giroud a accepté de créer une couverture de livre. Il s’est basé pour cela sur une esquisse de montre reflétant un certain style du troisième millénaire, et conçut un fond à dominance bleue (LA couleur des années 2000-2020 !) traversé par des bandes symbolisant la vitesse caractérisant cette époque.

Designer Eric Giroud agreed to create his first-ever book cover. He based it on a watch sketch reflecting the futuristic vibe of the third millennium, developing a predominantly blue background (THE color of the years 2000 through 2020), traversed by lines symbolizing the fast-paced nature of this period.

Les montres du 3e millénaire

ont leur livre

Watches of the third millennium get their dedicated

Première mondiale : The Millennium Watch Book n’est pas seulement une œuvre collective qui analyse l’essentiel de ce qu’il faut retenir de l’horlogerie depuis l’an 2000, elle l’expose en format XXL, ce qui procure aux fans de montres et aux adeptes d’objets design un plaisir aussi inépuisable que l’énergie fournie par le remontage automatique.

book

World premiere : The Millennium Watch Book is not only a collective work analyzing the essentials of horology since the year 2000, but also a volume displaying all this in XXL format and thus providing watch fans and devotees of design objects with a pleasure as inexhaustible as the energy supplied by automatic winding.

artificielle. Toujours en 2020, Tom Cruise mourait et revenait combattre sans cesse des extra-terrestres dans Edge of Tomorrow Mais le pire est à venir les aliens sensibles au son terrorisaient une famille dans « A Quiet Place Cependant, n’oublions pas le sport ! Fini la boxe, bonjour les combats de robots comme dans « Real Steel Donc, dans le ciné, 2020 c’est la guerre, de la carcasse combattante, des trips intersidéraux, pas mal d’aliens et même du voyage dans le temps. On va vraiment s’amuser. Alors, quelle sera donc la montre de 2020 ? Je voulais une montre qui ait une « gueule un style sci-fi et un look à la fois classique et inhabituel. Une pièce qui se distingue par son excellence technique, mais aussi qui vienne d’une marque tournée vers le futur. Enfin, pour célébrer le mot « anticipation j’ai choisi une pièce que je n’ai pas vue en vrai mais juste en image. Comme dans un film de Science-Fiction

POURQUOI H. MOSER & CIE ? J’ai un énorme respect pour cette marque à l’histoire si inhabituelle. Savez-vous qu’elle a été créée en Russie par Heinrich Moser et que Lénine en a porté une ! Expropriée puis disparue, elle reviendra lentement sur le devant de la scène à partir des années 2000, pour truster les news lors des différents salons horlogers entre 2016 et 2019. C’est en 2016 que les équipes de H. Moser lancent l’Alp Watch, réplique d’une Apple Watch, magnifique calibre mécanique en plus. Il y aura ensuite une montre en fromage (oui…) puis la Swiss Icons Watch qui se moque des marques mainstream Certains n’ont pas apprécié. Moi, j’ai aimé. Enfin, en 2019, il y a la Moser Nature Watch, petit jardin de poignet et merveille de poésie mécanique. Au-delà de ses talking pieces, H. Moser & Cie. sait réaliser de belles montres, simples et esthétiquement intéressantes. Elles ont de magnifiques cadrans fumés, aux couleurs originales, et sont toujours animées par des mouvements de Haute Horlogerie.

LA H. MOSER & CIE. STREAMLINER — THE JOKER Une gueule, une légende, un style. La Streamliner de H. Moser mérite bien ce nom. Parce qu’elle est un Joker à plus d’un titre. Elle surprend, bouscule et séduit. Son nom vient des super locomotives carénées pour fendre la bise plus rapidement, leur donnant ainsi un look très « Gothamien Elles ont arpenté les voies de chemin de fer allemandes, japonaises et américaines principalement entre les années 1930 et 70. La H. Moser Streamliner est un chronographe massif et stylé, au bracelet intégré, qui ne fait pas de concession. Comme le look de ces locos, on l’aime ou pas, mais qu’importe, il a

une vraie gueule On y retrouve un cadran fumé gris, un mouvement chronographe à aiguille centrale Flyback dont la masse est inversée, positionnée contre le cadran plutôt que contre le fond, et un bracelet digne des Ebel Wave — autre marque à laquelle je voue une vraie passion. Enfin, elle surprend aussi par son boîtier coussin et ses poussoirs « Bullhead , cette fois-ci très seventies. Avec un nom surgit des années 1930, un design seventies, un mouvement résolument digne du XXI siècle, qui me rappelle cependant l’iconique Lemania 5100 des années 1980, et un bracelet nineties, la Streamliner est une montre qui nous fait magnifiquement voyager dans le temps.

QU’EN PENSE L’AVOCAT DU DIABLE ? Il me dit Serge, pas de fake news, tu n’as pas vu la montre en vrai Et pour une fois, il a raison. Je laisserai donc cette partie vierge, espérant que 2020 me donnera l’occasion de passer cette voyageuse temporelle au poignet.

Plus d’un an de R&D et plus de vingt experts de l’horlogerie ont été nécessaires pour concevoir cet ouvrage culte de 300 pages, composé d’un demi-million de caractères et d’un millier de photos. Sa production est limitée, mais peut être réservée à des conditions préférentielles sur the-watch-book.com.

Ensemble, ces spécialistes de toutes les régions du monde qui ont été témoins de cette période intensément riche de l’histoire de l’horlogerie la synthétisent en vingt chapitres thématiques généreusement illustrés.

LE SEUL DICO DONT ON NE SE LASSE JAMAIS !

Quels chronographes et matériaux ont marqué ces deux décennies ? Quelles sont les dix tendances qui en ressortent et pourquoi le tourbillon ne sera plus jamais le même qu’avant ? Quelles sont les vingt montres qui symbolisent le mieux chaque année et comment a évolué l’horlogerie féminine ? Comment le bracelet et les brevets ont été utilisés ? The Millennium Watch Book permet aussi de mieux comprendre l’essor des petits indépendants, l’usage du silicium ou encore l’envolée de la montre d’occasion.

Par ailleurs, il recense tous les lauréats du Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève dans toutes les catégories depuis sa création en 2001, et établit le Who’s Who de l’horlogerie depuis le tournant du troisième millénaire : celles et ceux sans qui l’horlogerie contemporaine ne serait pas la même aujourd’hui.

Plus d’infos et souscription (en allemand, anglais et français au choix) sur the-watch-book.com.

More than a year of R&D and over 20 watchmaking experts were required to design this cult 300-page book, consisting of half a million characters and a thousand photos. Its production is limited, but it can be pre-ordered at a preferential rate on the-watch-book.com.

Together, these specialists from around the world who have witnessed this intensely rich period in the history of watchmaking sum it up in 20 generously illustrated thematic chapters.

THE ONLY DICTIONARY ONE NEVER TIRES OF ! What chronographs and materials have made their mark on these two decades ? What are the 10 trends that have emerged and why will the tourbillon never be the same again ? What are the 20 watches that best symbolize each year and how has women’s watchmaking evolved ? How have straps/bracelets and patents been used ? The Millennium Watch Book also provides a better understanding of the rise of the small independent watchmakers, the use of silicon and the boom of pre-owned watches.

In addition, it lists all the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève laureates in all categories since the competition was created in 2001, and establishes the Who’s Who of watchmaking since the turn of the third millennium : those without whom contemporary watchmaking would not be what it is today.

For further information and to pre-order (for the German, English or French versions), visit the-watch-book.com.

STREAMLINER

12e Art

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Geneva Watch Days

Le seul événement horloger international de 2020 réunit petits et grands autour d’une vision commune ; ces dix pages leur sont dédiées.

Tout a commencé avec l’annulation des éditions 2020 de Watches & Wonders et de Baselworld les 27 et 28 février, face aux risques sanitaires liés au coronavirus. La Suisse n’était pas encore véritablement touchée, mais il paraissait évident que les détaillants et médias asiatiques n’allaient pas voyager, et l’Italie commençait aussi à être atteinte sérieusement. S’il n’était pas possible de rassembler des milliers de visiteurs autour des grands salons horlogers, il paraissait alors encore envisageable d’organiser des rencontres calibrées pour une poignée de marques désireuses de présenter leurs nouveautés de manière plus confidentielle à leurs clients et journalistes les plus motivés, aux dates initialement prévues par Watches & Wonders fin avril. C’est la réflexion à laquelle le CEO du Groupe Bvlgari, Jean-Christophe Babin, s’est immédiatement livré. Il fallait encore convaincre rapidement quelques marques fortes de se serrer les coudes et de saisir cette opportunité pour constituer un programme de nouveautés suffisamment attractif.

The only international watchmaking event of 2020 brings together large and small stakeholders around a common vision ; these ten pages are dedicated to them.

It all began with the cancellation of the 2020 editions of Watches & Wonders and Baselworld on February 27th and 28th, due to coronavirus-related health risks. Switzerland was not yet really affected, but it was clear that retailers from Asia and media were not going to travel, and Italy was also beginning to be seriously hit. While it was not possible to have thousands of visitors congregate for the major watch fairs, it still seemed conceivable at the time to organize carefully assessed meetings for a handful of brands wishing to present their new products in a more confidential manner to their most strongly motivated clients and journalists, on the Watches & Wonders dates initially scheduled at the end of April. Such were the immediate thoughts of Bvlgari Group CEO Jean-Christophe Babin. There was nonetheless still a need for speed in convincing a few strong brands to join forces and seize this opportunity to put together a sufficiently attractive program of new models.

QUAND LES MARQUES SE TENDENT LA MAIN

Qu’ont donc en commun Breitling, Bvlgari, De Bethune, Gérald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie, MB&F, Ulysse Nardin et Urwerk appartenant à des groupes tels que Kering et LVMH pour certaines et à leurs fondateurs pour d’autres ? L’esprit d’entreprise est leur dénominateur commun, avec l’envie pour moteur et l’agilité comme boîte de vitesse. Si les dirigeants des quatre marques indépendantes « de niche » forment déjà un cercle relativement soudé et habitué à se retrouver sur les différents salons du monde entier, il n’en est rien pour ceux des grandes marques qui se sont pourtant tendu la main. Car une fois le principe adopté, il a bien fallu s’entendre pour définir les grandes lignes de l’événement, les budgets, le fonctionnement, le format, étudier les candidatures des autres marques ainsi qu’une multitude de détails. D’ailleurs, trois semaines plus tard, les marques fondatrices convinrent de décaler les Geneva Watch Days à fin août pour tenir compte de la situation sanitaire.

Invité aux comités de pilotage réunissant chaque marque fondatrice, GMT a pu constater à quel point la transparence et la bienveillance n’ont pas quitté la table de négociation. Au-delà de l’égo de leurs dirigeants, de leurs tailles ou de leurs groupes, ces marques sont parvenues à se mettre d’accord rapidement pour parler d’une seule voix et continuer à promouvoir la belle horlogerie.

UN EXEMPLE POUR GENÈVE EN 2021 ?

En juin, la Suisse a poursuivi son déconfinement et figurait au 1er rang des pays les plus sûrs face à l’épidémie du Coronavirus selon le classement du Deep Knowledge Group. Genève est fière d’accueillir le seul événement horloger international multimarque de 2020, et les hôteliers reconnaissants de recevoir ce ballon d’oxygène. Les fondateurs des Geneva Watch Days ont également accepté la participation de marques aussi diverses qu’ArtyA, Bovet, Carl F. Bucherer, Czapek, Ferdinand Berthoud, Louis Moinet, Maurice Lacroix ou Reuge. Il est devenu urgent de rassembler toute la branche au même moment. Au printemps prochain à Genève ?

Découvrez toutes les nouveautés de ces marques sur le dossier GWD de WorldTempus ou sur gva-watch-days.com

WHEN BRANDS REACH OUT TO EACH OTHER

What do Breitling, Bvlgari, De Bethune, Gérald Genta, GirardPerregaux, H. Moser & Cie, MB&F, Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk have in common, some belonging to groups such as Kering and LVMH and others to their founders ? Entrepreneurship is their common denominator, fueled by desire and steered with agility. While the heads of the four independent “niche” brands already form a relatively close-knit circle and are accustomed to meeting up at various trade shows around the world, such is not the case for those of the big brands, who nevertheless reached out to each other. Because once the principle was adopted, they had to find common ground in order to define the key outlines of the event, the budgets, the operational details, the format ; as well as to examine applications of the other brands and a whole host of details. Indeed, three weeks later, the founding brands agreed to postpone the Geneva Watch Days to the end of August in account of the health situation.

Invited to the steering committees uniting each founding brand, GMT was able to see how much transparency and goodwill was consistently shown at the negotiating table. Above and beyond the ego of their leaders, their sizes or their groups, these brands were able to agree quickly in order to speak with a single voice and continue promoting fine watchmaking.

AN EXAMPLE FOR GENEVA IN 2021?

In June, Switzerland continued to ease out of its partial lockdown and was ranked first among the safest countries when it comes to the Coronavirus epidemic according to the Deep Knowledge Group ranking. Geneva is proud to be hosting the only multibrand international watchmaking event of 2020, and the hotel industry is grateful to receive this much-needed shot in the arm. The founders of the Geneva Watch Days have also accepted the participation of brands as diverse as ArtyA, Bovet, Carl F. Bucherer, Czapek, Ferdinand Berthoud, Louis Moinet, Maurice Lacroix and Reuge. It has become urgent to bring the entire industry together at the same time. Next spring in Geneva ? Discover all the new releases from these brands in the WorldTempus GWD dossier or on gva-watch-days.com

Focus BREITLING

JORDY BELLIDO

Chronomat B01 42

BOÎTIER : acier inoxydable, fond vissé, couronne vissée, lunette unidirectionnelle à cliquet avec cavaliers, étanche à 200 mètres DIMENSIONS : 42 x 15.10 mm

MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre manufacture Breitling 01, 28’800 alt/h, certifié COSC, réserve de marche de 70 heures CADRAN : argent avec compteurs de chronographe noirs contrastants FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes, date, chronographe BRACELET : acier inoxydable, boucle déployante

Chronomat B01 42

CASE : stainless steel, screw-down caseback, screw-lock crown, unidirectional ratched bezel with rider tabs, waterresistant to 200 m DIMENSIONS : 42 x 15.10 mm

MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01, 28,800 vph, COSC-certified, 70h power reserve DIAL : silver-toned with contrasting black chronograph counters FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph BRACELET : stainless steel, folding clasp

The time of

Le temps des héros

Contraction de « chronographe » et « automatique », le nom de la nouvelle Chronomat B01 42 remonte à 1984 lors du lancement du premier modèle de la collection, accompagnant les cent ans de Breitling. Après des années de domination du quartz, ce nom permit de redonner ses lettres de noblesse au chronographe mécanique (à remontage automatique). Son esthétique et sa fiabilité firent de la Chronomat l’icône sport chic de son époque. Traditionnellement prisée des aviateurs, la Chronomat a gagné en polyvalence, marquant des points dans les écuries de Formule 1 ainsi que dans les régates au tournant des années 1990, grâce à son tachymètre et ses cavaliers réversibles. S’adaptant aux exigences du monde actuel, la Chronomat B01 42 de 2020 est dotée du calibre manufacture Breitling 01 certifié COSC et voit son design subtilement modernisé. Cependant, ce modèle n’en perd pas pour autant les codes dans lesquels il puise ses racines et son succès : la lunette tournante, les cavaliers interchangeables et le bracelet Rouleaux. La Chronomat est disponible en version panda ou panda inversé. Par son histoire riche, la Chronomat s’impose comme une icône intemporelle.

heroes

A contraction of “chronograph” and “automatic”, the name of the new Chronomat B01 42 dates back to 1984 when the first model in the collection was launched, accompanying Breitling’s 100th anniversary. After years of quartz domination, this name restored the pedigree of the mechanical (self-winding) chronograph. Its aesthetic appeal and reliability made the Chronomat the sporting chic icon of its time. Traditionally prized by aviators, the Chronomat subsequently became more versatile, scoring points in Formula 1 teams as well as in round-the-world regattas on the turn of the 1990s, thanks to its tachymeter scale and reversible rider tabs. Adapting to the demands of today’s world, the Chronomat B01 42 of 2020 is equipped with the COSC-certified Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01 and feature a subtly modernized design. This model has nonetheless lost nothing of the core identity codes forming the roots of its success : the rotating bezel, the interchangeable rider-tabs and the roller-type bracelet. The Chronomat is available in a panda or reverse panda dial version. Thanks to its rich history, the Chronomat has established itself as a timeless icon.

Focus BVLGARI

Aluminium BOÎTIER : alliage d’aluminium, lunette en caoutchouc FKM surmoulé, couronne et poussoirs en titane DLC, fond titane, étanche à 100 m DIAMÈTRE : 40 mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes, date, chronographe CADRAN : gris ou noir avec aiguilles et index luminescents BRACELET : caoutchouc FKM renforcé et inserts en aluminium, boucle ardillon

Aluminium

CASE : aluminum alloy, overmolded FKM rubber bezel, DLC titanium crown and pushers, titanium caseback, waterresistant to 100m DIAMETER : 40 mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph DIAL : gray or black with luminescent hands and hour-markers STRAP : reinforced FKM rubber and aluminum inserts, pin buckle

Ennobled aluminum

L’aluminium anobli

La démonstration de Bvlgari dans le design horloger a pris un essor fulgurant avec la saga Octo Finissimo depuis une petite décennie, mais avait déjà montré son potentiel au tournant du troisième millénaire avec la ligne Aluminium, lancée en 1998. Cinglant le ciel horloger de ses combinaisons aussi inattendues (aluminium et caoutchouc !) qu’universelles (femmes et hommes de tous âges et pays ascendant jetset), la ligne légère et profilée s’est imposée dans le temps. Bvlgari étant depuis devenue une manufacture intégrée, collectionneuse de récompenses, l’Aluminium méritait de franchir le cap 2020 avec un moteur plus performant et un nouvel alliage plus résistant, de même que des composants en caoutchouc plus sophistiqués. Si elle conserve une forte personnalité, la nouvelle génération se caractérise aussi par une meilleure ergonomie visible par l’évolution de ses cornes, afin d’épouser le poignet et la nouvelle taille du boîtier. Le sport chic a trouvé une ambassadrice contemporaine et anticonformiste.

Bvlgari’s masterful demonstration in the field of watch design truly took off with the Octo Finissimo saga a short decade ago, but had already shown its potential at the turn of the third millennium with the Aluminium line, launched in 1998. Studding the watchmaking sky with its combinations that are as unexpected (aluminum and rubber !) as they are universally appealing (to men and women of all ages and from all countries with a jet-set tendency), the light, streamlined line has made its mark over time.

Bvlgari having since become an award-winning integrated Manufacture, Aluminium deserved to enter the 2020s equipped with a more powerful ‘engine’ and a new, stronger alloy, as well as more sophisticated rubber components. While retaining a strong personality, the new generation is also characterized by improved ergonomics particularly visible in the way its lugs have evolved to ensure a perfect fit on wrist, along with the new case size. Casual chic has found a contemporary and nonconformist ambassador.

BRICE LECHEVALIER

DAVID CHOKRON

Finesse et élégance techniques

Pour célébrer les dix ans de sa montre phare, De Bethune fait entrer la DB28 dans un nouvel univers : la finesse. Parsemée de détails (bleuis), la DB28XP Tourbillon dégage une impression d’élégance qui est l’autre registre d’expression de la marque, souvent très technique dans son apparence. Ainsi, avec son boîtier de 8,1 mm monté sur des berceaux mobiles, elle se fond sur le poignet, s’y installe sur le moindre recoin, parfaitement légère puisque taillée dans le titane poli. Cette pièce anniversaire procure une sensation de confort comme il en existe peu en horlogerie. Elle en serait presque effacée et l’apparence du cadran prolonge cet effet. Il est animé par des aiguilles lance (bleuies) et un guilloché grain d’orge argenté, entouré d’un cerclage en titane (bleui) ponctué d’index horaires en forme de clous polis. Enfin, l’ouverture à 6 heures (bleuie) révèle la nature profonde de la marque : il s’agit de la cage (bleuie) d’un tourbillon 30 secondes. Elle renferme un balancier (bleui) en titane à masselottes en or gris, qui bat à la fréquence rarissime de 5 Hz, ce qui n’est que la face émergée de la sophistication du calibre DB2009v4.

De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon BOÎTE : titane grade 5 poli, carrure en composite, montée sur berceaux mobiles, verre saphir, fond en titane, étanche à 30 m (3 ATM) TAILLE : 43 mm de diamètre, 8,1 mm de hauteur MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage manuel, calibre DB2009v4, 5 jours de marche, tourbillon 30 secondes à 5 Hz, balancier en titane à masselottes en or, roue d’ancre en silicium, 216 composants FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, indicateur 30 secondes CADRAN : guilloché main, motif grain d’orge argenté, aiguilles lance bleuies, cerclages en titane bleuis BRACELET : alligator noir sur boucle ardillon en titane

Technical finesse and elegance

To celebrate the tenth anniversary of its flagship watch, De Bethune is taking the DB28 into a new universe : that of finesse. Sprinkled with (blued) details, the DB28XP Tourbillon exudes an impression of elegance, which is the other mode of expression used by the brand that often flaunts a highly technical look. Its 8.1mm case featuring floating lugs molds the wrist perfectly and with a particularly light touch ensured by the polished titanium from which it is crafted. This anniversary timepiece provides a level of comfort rarely experienced in watchmaking, with a barely-there feel accentuated by the dials’ aesthetics. The latter is enlivened by (blued) spear-shaped hands and a silver-toned barleycorn guilloché pattern, surrounded by a (blued) titanium ring punctuated by polished stud-type hour-markers. Finally, the (blued) 6 o’clock aperture reveals the innermost nature of the brand : the (blued) 30-second tourbillon carriage housing a (blued) titanium balance with white gold weights, beating at the extremely rare frequency of 5 Hz. And all that is merely the tip of the iceberg in terms of the sophistication characterizing the DB2009v4 caliber.

De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon

CASE : polished grade 5 titanium, composite caseband, mounted on floating lugs, sapphire crystal, titanium case back, water-resistant to 30 m (3 ATM)

SIZE : 43mm in diameter, 8.1mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical hand-wound, Caliber DB2009v4, five-day power reserve, 30-second tourbillon at 5 Hz, titanium balance-wheel with gold weights, silicon escape-wheel, 216 components FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, 30-second indicator

DIAL : hand-guilloché silver-tone barleycorn pattern, blued spear-shaped hands, blued titanium rings STRAP : black alligator with titanium pin buckle

Focus H. MOSER X MB&F

DAVID CHOKRON

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser × MB&F

BOÎTE : acier, glassbox en forme de dôme et fond en saphir transparent TAILLE : 42 mm de diamètre, 19,6 mm de hauteur MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre HMC810, 72 heures de marche, tourbillon volant, spiral cylindrique FONCTIONS : heures et minutes excentrées

CADRAN : Ice Blue, soleillé et dégradé, affichage sur disque de saphir relevé de 40° à 6 h BRACELET : crocodile noir sur boucle déployante en acier SÉRIE LIMITÉE DE 15 EXEMPLAIRES

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser × MB&F

CASE : steel, with high domed sapphire crystal on top and transparent sapphire crystal caseback SIZE : 42mm in diameter, 19.6 mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, HMC810 caliber, 72-hour power reserve, flying tourbillon, cylindrical balance-spring FUNCTIONS : Off-centered hours and minutes

DIAL : Sunburst gradient-patterned Ice Blue, display appearing at 6 o’clock on a 40° tilted sapphire disk STRAP : black crocodile leather with steel folding clasp LIMITED SERIES OF 15

Entwined destinies

L’un

dans l’autre

et vice versa

On ne le savait pas, mais H. Moser & Cie fonctionne sur un principe proche des Friends de MB&F. Des intervenants partiels dans l’élaboration d’un projet, ou des partenaires majeurs, qui apportent vision, design, voire mouvement, à un garde-temps. Mais ils restent secrets… sauf dans le cas de la Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser × MB&F. Projet frère, montre miroir, pendant haute complication de la LM 101 MB&F x H. Moser, ce tourbillon est lui aussi une Moser friendisée et une MB&F moserisée. Qu’a-t-il de MB&F ? Un principe d’affichage décalé et relevé rappelant la LM Thunderdome, mais munie d’un tourbillon volant, à plat. La hauteur de ces éléments impose un verre saphir en forme de large dôme. Et de Moser, que tient-il ? Une boîte en acier de la collection Endeavour, un cadran fumé de teinte Ice Blue entièrement vierge de tout marquage et un sous-cadran en saphir qui porte son nom. Enfin, pour la première fois, une montre Moser accueille un spiral cylindrique, enroulé en forme de tube vertical. Il est identique à celui utilisé sur la LM Thunderdome, mais intégré dans un tourbillon plus simple. C’est plus qu’un grain de sel, un fondement du projet même.

Many were not yet aware that H. Moser & Cie operates on a principle similar to the Friends of MB&F. These are partial participants in the development of a project, or major partners, who bring vision, design and even a movement to a timepiece. Yet they remain secret… except in the case of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser × MB&F. A sister project, a mirror watch, a high complication counterpart of the LM 101 MB&F x H. Moser, this tourbillon is also a Friends-inspired Moser and a Moserized MB&F. What does it have of MB&F ? An offcentered and tilted display principle reminiscent of the LM Thunderdome, but with a flat flying tourbillon. The height of these elements requires the use of a wide dome-shaped sapphire crystal. And what does it embody of Moser ? A steel case from the Endeavour collection, a fumé dial in an Ice Blue color, devoid of any indication, and a sapphire crystal subdial bearing its name. Finally, for the first time, a Moser watch welcomes a cylindrical balance-spring, coiled in the shape of a vertical tube. It is identical to the one used on the LM Thunderdome, but used here in a simpler tourbillon mechanism. This is more than just a special touch, but instead the very foundation of the project itself.

Focus

MB&F X H. MOSER

DAVID CHOKRON

LM 101 MB&F x H. Moser

BOÎTE : acier, glassbox en forme de dôme et fond en saphir transparent TAILLE : 40 mm de diamètre, 16 mm de hauteur MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage manuel, 45 heures de marche, grand balancier flottant côté cadran, double spiral FONCTIONS : heures et minutes excentrées, indicateur de réserve de marche CADRAN : bleu, vert, rouge ou bleu clair, soleillé et dégradé BRACELET : veau surpiqué sur boucle déployante en acier et titane SÉRIE LIMITÉE DE 15 EXEMPLAIRES

PAR COULEUR DE CADRAN

LM 101 MB&F x H. Moser

CASE : steel, with high domed sapphire crystal on top and transparent sapphire crystal case-back SIZE : 40 mm in diameter, 16mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical hand-wound, 45-hour power reserve, large floating balance on the dial side, double balance-spring FUNCTIONS : Off-centered hours and minutes, power-reserve indicator DIAL : blue, green, red or light blue, sunburst and gradient-colored STRAP : topstitched calfskin with a steel and titanium folding clasp

LIMITED SERIES OF 15 PER DIAL COLOR

L’un dans l’autre et

Destinies entwined

réciproquement

MB&F fonctionne, on le sait, sur le principe des Friends. Des intervenants partiels dans l’élaboration d’un projet, ou des partenaires majeurs, qui apportent vision, design, voire mouvement, à un garde-temps. Mais jamais l’interpénétration des codes identitaires n’avait été aussi loin qu’avec la dernière collab’ en date. La LM 101 MB&F x H. Moser est une Moser friendisée et une MB&F moserisée, les deux à la fois, tant l’intersection du style, des couleurs, des finitions est intime. Qu’a-t-elle de MB&F ? Le mouvement typique des collections Legacy Machine, hyper-classique au dos, totalement MB&F de face avec cette grande arche en porte-à-faux devenue une signature. La hauteur de cette construction qui tient un balancier flottant par-dessus le cadran impose l’emploi d’un verre saphir en forme de dôme. Enfin, la boîte est celle des premières Legacy Machine. Et de Moser, que tient-elle ? Déjà, elle se rattache à la série Concept, dont les cadrans sont absolument vierges de toute indication et en particulier, de marque. De plus, ils sont soleillés et dégradés selon un principe dont Moser a le secret. Enfin, pour la première fois, une LM accueille un double spiral, qui est la spécialité technique majeure de Moser, qui met ainsi son grain de sel dans le mouvement.

MB&F operates, as indicated by its very name, on the principle of Friends. These are partial participants in the development of a project, or major partners, who bring vision, design and even a movement to a timepiece. Yet never before has the interpenetration of identity codes gone so far as with the latest collaborative endeavor. The LM 101 MB&F x H. Moser is at once a Friends-inspired Moser and a “Moserized” MB&F, so intimate is the entwinement of style, colors and finishes. What does it derive from MB&F ? The typical movement of the Legacy Machine collections : hyper-traditional when viewed from the back and totally MB&F from the front, with the large cantilevered arch that has become a signature. The height of the latter construction, which supports a balance wheel suspended above the dial, requires the use of a dome-shaped sapphire crystal. Finally, the watch case is that of the first Legacy Machine. And what does it embody of Moser ? Firstly, it belongs to the Concept series, whose dials are absolutely devoid of any indication and notably of any brand name. Moreover, they feature a sunburst gradient pattern based on a principle to which Moser holds the secret. Finally, for the first time, an LM houses a double hairspring, representing the major technical specialty of Moser, which thereby adds its very own touch to the movement.

Focus GIRARD-PERREGAUX

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Free Bridge

BOÎTIER : acier poli, verre saphir bombé, fond saphir, étanche à 30 m DIAMÈTRE : 44 mm

MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique (54 h de réserve de marche), 185 composants, rotor en or et pont en onyx pour l’Infinity FONCTIONS : heures, minutes

CADRAN : ouvert, aiguilles squelettées et index suspendus luminescents (en or pour l’Infinity) BRACELET : veau (alligator pour l’Infinity) avec boucle déployante triple lame

Le pont libéré

Après un énorme travail réalisé sur la manufacture et la structure des collections depuis la reprise en main de Girard-Perregaux par Patrick Pruniaux (également CEO d’Ulysse Nardin) il y a deux ans, les familles de produits prennent un nouvel essor. Ses équipes et lui ont choisi Infinity pour thème 2020, symbole de résilience en cette année si particulière et de convergence pour les quatre lignes revisitées aux Geneva Watch Days. C’est notamment le cas de la nouvelle Free Bridge et de sa série limitée de 88 pièces Free Bridge Infinity. Signature esthétique de la marque depuis plus de 150 ans et régulièrement redessiné, le fameux pont arqué semble flotter au-dessus du cadran, lui-même ouvert sur le mouvement qui bénéficie des dernières technologies, telles que l’échappement en silicium et le balancier à inertie variable. Ces innovations en améliorent la performance en réduisant l’influence des chocs ou des écarts de température. Le spectacle est sublimé par le verre saphir bombé. La Free Bridge sert aussi de pont entre la haute horlogerie et les amateurs de belles montres en rendant cette collection plus accessible. Girard-Perregaux a su joindre l’utile à l’agréable, la tradition à la qualité technique et esthétique contemporaine.

Liberating the bridge

After an enormous amount of work on the Manufacture and the structure of the collections since Girard-Perregaux was taken over by Patrick Pruniaux (also CEO of Ulysse Nardin) two years ago, the product families are gaining fresh momentum. He and his teams have chosen Infinity as the theme for 2020, a symbol of resilience in this highly unusual year, as well as a token of convergence for the four lines revisited at the Geneva Watch Days. This is notably the case for the new Free Bridge and its limited series of 88 Free Bridge Infinity pieces. An aesthetic signature of the brand for more than 150 years and regularly redesigned, the famous arched bridge appears to float above the dial, itself open onto the movement which benefits from the latest technologies, such as the silicon escapement and the variable inertia balance. These innovative features improve its performance by reducing the influence of shocks or temperature differences. The visual effect is further enhanced by the domed box-type sapphire crystal. The Free Bridge also serves as a bridge between Haute Horlogerie and lovers of beautiful watches by making this collection more accessible. Girard-Perregaux has succeeded in combining practicality with pleasure, tradition with contemporary technical and aesthetic quality.

polished steel, curved sapphire crystal, sapphire back, waterDIAMETER : 44mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (54h power reserve), 185 components, gold rotor and onyx bridge for the FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : open dial with skeleton hands and luminescent suspended hour-markers (gold for the Infinity) calfskin (alligator for the Infinity) with triple-blade folding clasp

Focus ULYSSE NARDIN

JOY CORTHÉSY

Ulysse Nardin Black Blast

BOÎTIER : céramique noire DIAMÈTRE : 45 mm

MOUVEMENT : calibre UN-172 ; tourbillon automatique avec micro-rotor ; 72 heures de réserve de marche CADRAN : ajouré, avec pont rectangulaire noir, motif double X rouge et noir et balancier rouge visible FONCTIONS : tourbillon, heures, minutes BRACELET : en caoutchouc structuré, cuir d’alligator ou velours

Puissance X

Connu pour son utilisation de technologies novatrices (comme le silicium) et son expertise dans les montres inspirées de la marine, Ulysse Nardin a toujours présenté des pièces visuellement saisissantes et mécaniquement inventives. Ulysse Nardin rafraîchit aujourd’hui sa collection Executive avec la nouvelle Blast et raffine le design déjà contemporain de l’Executive Skeleton Tourbillon, en adoucissant les angles et en renforçant un look osé pour un mouvement plus audacieux. A première vue, la nouvelle Blast ne semble pas très différente de celles qui l’ont précédée. Mais un examen plus attentif révèle des détails qui, mis ensemble, redéfinissent une allure plus puissante : un boîtier en forme de X abrite un tourbillon volant automatique en silicium à six heures, des barrettes redessinées, plus fines et fuselées, ainsi qu’un X visuellement plus impressionnant, encadré dans un rectangle servant de « ponts » enserrant le mouvement et visible à travers un cadran ajouré. Le mouvement, le nouveau calibre UN-172, est le résultat de l’évolution de l’UN-171, avec une réserve de marche améliorée (trois jours), un tourbillon automatique (une première dans la collection Skeleton Tourbillon de la marque) et un nouveau micro-rotor en platine. Le généreux boîtier de 45 mm accueillant ce mécanisme sophistiqué est disponible en trois versions à choix : céramique noire, or rose ou titane avec revêtement DLC.

Raw power

Ulysse Nardin Black Blast

CASE : black ceramic DIAMETER : 45mm

MOVEMENT : Calibre UN-172 ; automatic tourbillon movement with micro-rotor ; 72-hour power reserve DIAL : openworked, with black rectangular bridge, red and black double “X” pattern and visible red balance wheel FUNCTIONS : tourbillon, hours, minutes

STRAP : structured rubber, alligator leather or velvet strap

Known for using innovative technologies (like silicon) and expertise in marineinspired timepieces, Ulysse Nardin has always presented visually striking and mechanically inventive watches. Now refurbishing its Executive collection with the new Blast, Ulysse Nardin is refining the already contemporary design of the Executive Skeleton Tourbillon – smoothing the edges and reinforcing an audacious look for a bolder movement. At first glance, the new Blast doesn’t seem all that different from its predecessors. But a closer look reveals details that combine to redefine a stronger look : an X-shaped cage houses an automatic silicon flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, restyled lugs to make them leaner and more streamlined, as well as a more visually striking X framed in a rectangle serving as the “bridges” sandwiching the movement together and visible through the openworked dial. The movement, the new UN-172 caliber, is the evolution of the UN-171, with a more buffed up power reserve (three days), an automatic tourbillon (a first in the brand’s Skeleton Tourbillon line) and a new platinum micro-rotor. The generous 45 mm case housing this sophisticated mechanism is available in a choice of three versions : black ceramic, rose gold or titanium with DLC coating.

Focus URWERK

JOY CORTHÉSY

In two-tone

En bicolore

Parfois il n’est pas trop difficile de réinventer la roue. Urwerk a explosé avec fracas sur la scène horlogère en offrant à une industrie traditionnelle des montres audacieuses, futuristes, réinterprétant le concept de lecture de l’heure. En s’appuyant sur cet exploit, elle produit maintenant des variations exclusives de ses montres qui réinventent la roue, avec le modèle UR-111C disponible maintenant en version bicolore, revêtu de PVD noir et acier brossé pour des lignes plus épurées. Lancée en 2018 entièrement en acier inoxydable, l’UR-111C proposait une façon innovante de lire l’heure. Sa construction, qui rappelle une montre style « driver », arbore un cylindre dans la moitié inférieure de la montre surmonté d’un verre saphir et affichant les heures sur la droite et les minutes au centre et sur la gauche. Les secondes peuvent se lire à travers une ouverture dans la partie supérieure de la montre, avec une roulette en dessous servant de couronne. Même si le design du boîtier pourrait être considéré, à tort, comme volumineux, sa courbure s’ajuste confortablement à la plupart des poignets. La combinaison d’acier avec une finition PVD noir donne à la montre une allure encore plus mécanique et contemporaine. Difficile de passer inaperçu avec cela au poignet. Mais pourquoi le voudrait-on ?

mode

Sometimes it doesn’t take much to reinvent the wheel. Urwerk burst onto the watchmaking scene providing a traditional industry with edgy, futuristic watches reinterpreting the concept of telling the time. Building on this achievement, Urwerk now provides exclusive variations of their “wheel-redefining” watches, with the UR-111C now available in a twotone version, clad in black PVD and brushed steel for a sleeker profile. Initially introduced in 2018 in all stainless steel, the UR-111C offered an innovative way of reading the time. Its construction reminiscent of a driver’s watch features a cylinder on the bottom half of the watch topped by a sapphire crystal and displaying the hours on the right and the minutes in the center and on the left. The seconds can be read through an opening on the top of the watch, with a roller below it acting as the crown to set the time. Though the design of the case could be mistakenly regarded as bulky, its curvature fits quite comfortably on most wrists. The combination of steel with a black PVD finish gives the watch an even more mechanical and contemporary look. Difficult to go unnoticed with this on the wrist. But then again, why would you want to ?

UR-111C Two-Tone

UR-111C Two-Tone BOÎTIER : en acier avec PVD noir et finition brossée

:

x

x 15 mm MOUVEMENT : calibre à remontage automatique avec système stop-secondes CADRAN : en verre saphir avec traitement antireflets FONCTIONS : heures sautantes, minutes linéaires rétrogrades, minutes digitales, secondes digitales BRACELET : en tissu

Focus ARTYA

BRICE LECHEVALIER

ArtyA Gold Griffin

BOÎTIER : acier gravé à la main, lunette en or et inserts latéraux en or gravés, fond vissé et gravé avec saphir transparent, étanche à 50 m TAILLE : 44 mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique (calibre Aion exclusif, 52 h de réserve de marche), certifié COSC FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes CADRAN : or gravé à la main, aiguilles en or BRACELET : alligator noir cousu main, boucle ardillon PIÈCE UNIQUE

ArtyA Gold Griffin

CASE : hand-engraved steel, gold bezel and engraved gold side inserts, engraved screw-in caseback fitted with a transparent sapphire pane, water-resistant to 50 m SIZE : 44 mm

MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (exclusive Aion caliber, 52-hour power reserve), COSC-certified FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds DIAL : hand-engraved gold, gold hands STRAP : hand-stitched black alligator, pin buckle ONE-OF-A-KIND MODEL

Modern-day golden

Griffon

d’or des temps modernes

Pour qui souhaite se distinguer par son garde-temps tout en restant sensible aux valeurs de la tradition horlogère, ArtyA s’est depuis longtemps imposée sur le créneau de la pièce unique et des micro-séries de haute horlogerie contemporaine. L’approche esthétique audacieuse développée par son fondateur Yvan Arpa va de pair avec le respect du savoir-faire artisanal du contenu autant que du contenant. Ainsi le mouvement automatique de cette pièce unique conçu exclusivement pour ArtyA bénéficie de la certification COSC et s’offre au regard de son propriétaire à travers le fond saphir. Entièrement gravée à la main par un maître-graveur inspiré par les motifs du Griffon d’or (qui a donné le nom à cette pièce), cette montre de haute horlogerie ne peut laisser personne indifférent. Non seulement les cornes, le fond et la carrure du boîtier en acier s’avèrent gravés par le maître-graveur Bram Ramon, mais également la lunette et le cadran en or, ainsi que les inserts latéraux en or qui renforcent la personnalité de ce petit bijou mécanique. Nul doute que les magiciens des temps modernes s’en équiperont avec panache.

griffin

For people who like to stand out in terms of their watch while remaining sensitive to the values of the watchmaking tradition, ArtyA has long since established itself in the niche of one-of-a-kind timepieces and micro-series of contemporary Haute Horlogerie. The daring aesthetic approach developed by its founder Yvan Arpa goes hand in hand with respect for the craftsmanship involved in both the content and the container. The mechanical self-winding movement of this unique timepiece designed exclusively for ArtyA is chronometer-certified by the COSC reveals itself to its owner through the sapphire crystal set into the caseback. Entirely hand-engraved by master-engraver Bram Ramon inspired by the golden griffin motifs that inspired its name, this fine watchmaking timepiece leaves no one indifferent. Not only are the lugs, caseback and caseband of the steel case engraved, but so too are the gold bezel and dial, as well as the gold lateral inserts accentuating the personality of this little mechanical gem. Modern-day magicians will doubtless work wonders with it on their wrists !

BOVET

MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON

Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two

BOÎTIER : « écritoire » en saphir DIAMÈTRE : 47,8 mm

MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage manuel, calibre 17DM06-DT, cinq jours de réserve de marche

FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes sur le tourbillon, phases de lune hémisphériques, heure universelle avec second fuseau horaire indexable, indicateur de ville hémisphérique

CADRANS : quartz bleu, quartz vert ou verre aventuriné

FOND : saphir ETANCHÉITÉ : 30 m BRACELET : cuir d’alligator

EDITION LIMITÉE : 30 exemplaires (10 par version)

A world of

Un univers de transparence

Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two

CASE : sapphire, “sloped writing case” design

DIAMETER : 47.8mm MOVEMENT : mechanical hand-wound, Caliber 17DM06-DT, five-day power reserve

FUNCTIONS : Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon, hemispherical moon phase, world time with indexable dualtime display, hemispherical city indicator DIALS : blue quartz, green quartz or aventurine glass CASEBACK : sapphire

WATER-RESISTANCE : 30m STRAP : alligator leather LIMITED EDITION : 30 watches (10 per version)

transparency

Comme toutes les histoires, celle de cette collection dédiée à l’astronomie a commencé par un premier chapitre. Elle se poursuit cette année avec le Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two, un deuxième opus fascinant pour lequel les membres du bureau technique et les horlogers prototypistes de Bovet se sont triturés les méninges pendant quatre ans. On en imagine aisément les raisons quand on observe le colossal boîtier « écritoire » en saphir dont le profil asymétrique permet d’explorer le nouveau mécanisme qui se dévoile en un fascinant spectacle tridimensionnel. Outre le tourbillon volant double face breveté, l’heure et la minute s’affichent en majesté sur un dôme situé à 12 h. Deux dômes rotatifs complètent le tableau. Le premier, à 3 h, affiche les heures universelles avec un second fuseau horaire indexable sur 24 villes. Le second, à 9 h, présente les phases de la lune avec une exactitude qui ne nécessite qu’une correction tous les 127 ans. Un mécanisme de haute précision qui bat à la fréquence de 21’600 A/h et, grâce à l’usage d’un unique barillet, assure une autonomie de cinq jours. Comme toujours chez Bovet, la mécanique est mise en lumière par la finesse des décorations. Planes, inclinées, convexes ou verticales, toutes les surfaces qui le permettent techniquement sont gravées, à la main, du motif « bris de verre ». Un raffinement extrême, en toute transparence !

Like all stories, the story of this collection dedicated to astronomy began with a first chapter. It continues this year with Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two, a fascinating second opus for which the members of Bovet’s R&D department and prototype-making watchmakers racked their brains for a full four years. It is easy to imagine the reasons for this when one looks at the colossal sapphire écritoire (slanted-top writing desk) case, whose asymmetrical profile makes it possible to explore the intricacies of the new mechanism, revealed in a fascinating three-dimensional show. In addition to the patented double face flying tourbillon, the hours and minutes are majestically displayed on a dome at 12 o’clock. Two rotating domes complete the picture. The first, at 3 o’clock, indicates world time with a dual-time display that can be indexed to one of 24 cities while showing the time in all the others. The second, at 9 o’clock, displays the moon phases with a degree of accuracy requiring only one correction every 127 years. This high-precision single-barrel mechanism beating at a frequency of 21,600 vib/h ensures a five-day power reserve. As always at Bovet, the mechanics are highlighted by the finesse of the decorations. Whether flat, sloping, convex or vertical, all surfaces that technically allow it are engraved by hand with the emblematic bris de verre (broken glass) motif. Extreme refinement, in total transparency !

Focus CARL

F. BUCHERER

MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON

avec style

In deep waters,

BOÎTIER : titane, traitement DLC noir ; lunette

mm

MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre CFB1950.1, réserve de marche de 38 heures, certifié COSC

FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes, date CADRAN : noir FOND : saphir ETANCHÉITÉ : 500 m BRACELET : en caoutchouc avec empiècement textile en plastique recyclé ou bracelet en caoutchouc gravé

Patravi ScubaTec Black

CASE : titanium, black DLC treatment ; unidirectional rotating bezel in titanium and ceramic DIAMETER : 44.6mm

MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Caliber CFB1950.1, 38-hour power reserve, COSC certified FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : black CASEBACK : sapphire crystal WATER RESISTANCE : 500 m STRAP : rubber strap with fabric insert made of recycled plastic or embossed rubber strap

with style

Exploring the seabed and swimming with manta rays while remaining stylish ?

Explorer les fonds marins et taquiner les raies manta sans renoncer au style ?

Pour ceux qui refusent de choisir entre la précision et le design, la Patravi ScubaTec Black a plus d’un argument. Son look, hyper racé, affiche une combinaison total black, du boîtier ultraléger de 44,6 mm en titane DLC noir mat au cadran structuré en passant par le bracelet. La lisibilité, de jour comme dans l’obscurité des profondeurs, est optimale grâce au revêtement Super-LumiNova appliqué sur les aiguilles et les index. Quant à la précision, elle est assurée par le calibre automatique CFB 1950.1 certifié COSC. Paré pour l’aventure sousmarine, ce concentré de performance est parfaitement à l’aise jusqu’à une profondeur de 500 mètres, grâce à sa couronne vissée et sa valve à hélium automatique. De quoi séduire les plongeurs chevronnés qui ne bouderont pas l’effort réalisé par Carl F. Bucherer dans le concept de durabilité : petite bulle d’air pour la planète, le bracelet en caoutchouc noir est paré d’un textile composé à 100 % de bouteilles de plastique repêchées dans les océans.

The Patravi ScubaTec Black has plenty to appeal to those who refuse to choose between accuracy and design. Its ultra-sophisticated look features a total-black combination, from the ultra-light 44.6mm matt black DLC titanium case to the patterned dial and embossed strap. Readability, in daylight as well as in the darkness of the depths, is optimal thanks to the Super-LumiNova® coating applied to the hands and hour-markers. Precision is ensured by the COSC-certified CFB 1950.1 automatic caliber. Geared up for underwater adventures, this distillation of performance is perfectly at ease down to a depth of 500m, thanks to its screw-down crown and automatic helium valve. Exactly what it takes to please experienced divers who will not fail to be impressed by Carl F. Bucherer’s efforts in terms of sustainability : offering a small air bubble for the planet, the black rubber strap is adorned with a fabric made of 100 % recycled plastic bottles recovered from the oceans.

En eaux profondes,

!

Patravi ScubaTec Black

tournante unidirectionnelle en titane et céramique DIAMÈTRE : 44,6

MICHÈLE BRUNNER

Chanel, à l’extrême

La date est facile à retenir : la J12 est née en 2000 (comme GMT !). Son design est déjà iconique avec son boîtier et son bracelet en céramique, et ses couleurs, noir ou blanc, essentielles, intemporelles, unisexes. Le calcul est vite fait aussi : la collection fête son 20e anniversaire cette année et Chanel le célèbre avec une nouveauté baptisée J12∙20 et produite à 2020 exemplaires. Clin d’œil et symbole des chiffres. Mais pas seulement. C’est tout l’univers de la maison Chanel que la J12∙20 raconte avec les vingt – forcément – motifs rhodiés qui parsèment le cadran et la lunette de la montre. On y reconnaît un flacon de parfum N°5, une veste de tweed, un camélia, un portrait de Mademoiselle Coco portant son fameux chapeau cloche, un sac, une chaussure, une tête de lion, des diamants, des perles, un dé à coudre, des ciseaux, et même une montre Première. Les douze diamants taille brillant ne font pas office d’index, ils sont disséminés parmi ces hiéroglyphes des temps modernes. Seuls six chiffres, distribués dans une diagonale allant du bas du cadran à gauche jusqu’en haut à droite, ont résisté à l’invasion graphique et symbolique. Ils se détachent sur un fond vierge, offrant comme une respiration ou un repos du regard.

Extreme Chanel

J12∙20

BOÎTE : céramique blanche haute résistance et acier, fond saphir, lunette tournante unidirectionnelle en acier et couronne vissée en acier avec cabochon en céramique blanche. Etanche à 200 mètres

TAILLE : 38 mm MOUVEMENT : manufacture à remontage automatique Calibre 12.1, certifié COSC, 70 h de réserve de marche

FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, secondes

CADRAN : laqué blanc, motifs Chanel rhodiés, 12 diamants taille brillant (env. 0,03 carat)

BRACELET : céramique blanche, boucle triple déployante en acier

EDITION LIMITÉE : 2020 pièces

The date is easy to remember, since the D12 was born in 2000 (like GMT !). Its design is already iconic with its ceramic case and bracelet, as well as its quintessential, timeless and unisex black or white colors. The mental arithmetic is also quickly done, meaning the collection is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year and Chanel is marking the event with a new model named J12∙20 issued in a 2,020-piece limited edition : symbolic numbers giving a tip of the hat to this milestone. There is more to come however, as the J12∙20 tells the story of the entire Chanel world through 20 (naturally) rhodium-plated motifs sprinkled across the dial and bezel of the watch. These include a N°5 perfume bottle, a tweed jacket, a camellia, a portrait of Mademoiselle Coco wearing her famous bell-shaped cloche hat, a bag, a shoe, a lion’s head, diamonds, pearls, a thimble, scissors, and even a Première watch. The 12 brilliant-cut diamonds do not serve as hour-markers, but are instead scattered amongst these modern-day hieroglyphics. Only six numerals, arranged in a diagonal line running from bottom-left to top-right, have resisted the graphic and symbolic invasion. They stand out against a pristine background, offering a visual “breather”.

J12∙20

CASE : highly resistant white ceramic and steel, sapphire crystal caseback, unidirectional rotating steel bezel and screw-down steel crown with white ceramic cabochon ; water-resistant to 200m SIZE : 38mm MOVEMENT : self-winding Manufacture Caliber 12.1, COSC-certified, 70-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds DIAL : white lacquer, rhodium-plated Chanel motifs, 12 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.03ct) STRAP : white ceramic, steel triple folding clasp LIMITED EDITION : 2,020

Master Control Chronographe Calendrier

BOÎTIER : or Le Grand Rose satiné-brossé, lunette polie, fond saphir, étanche à 50 m

DIAMÈTRE : 40 mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique (Calibre 759, 65 h de réserve de marche) FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, seconde centrale, chronographe deux compteurs, jour, date, mois, phase de lune CADRAN : argent finitions soleil, index en applique, aiguilles en or BRACELET : alligator ou veau, boucle déployante

Master Control Calendar Chronograph

CASE : satin-brushed Le Grand Rose gold, polished bezel, sapphire caseback, waterresistant to 50 m DIAMETER : 40 mm

MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Caliber 759, 65h power reserve) FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, central seconds, two-counter chronograph, day, date, month, moon phase

DIAL : sunburst-finished silver-toned, applied hour-markers, gold hands STRAP : alligator or calf, folding clasp

Chrono au

grand cœur

Près de 30 ans après son lancement, l’incomparable collection classique Master Control sort d’un bain de jouvence pour aborder la troisième décennie du troisième millénaire avec conviction et séduction. Sans être complètement métamorphosée, tout a été repensé, de l’habillage au mouvement. Les quatre premiers modèles incarnent cet élan de sophistication dont le plus évolutif prend les traits d’un chronographe automatique à triple calendrier, une combinaison inédite dans la grande famille de la Grande Maison du Sentier. Le raffinement du cadran n’a d’égal que les finitions du boîtier aux cornes élancées délicatement satinées et brossées, contrastant sobrement avec la lunette polie. Si la couleur du boîtier surprend, c’est qu’il s’agit d’un nouvel alliage d’or rose et de palladium, baptisé or Le Grand Rose. Au verso, le fond saphir laisse apercevoir un tout nouveau mouvement bien évidemment réalisé par la manufacture, le Calibre 759, équipé d’un chronographe à roue à colonne et embrayage vertical avec échappement en silicium. Parfaitement lisibles, les indications du double compteur et du triple calendrier n’interfèrent pas avec celles de l’heure. Comme tous les modèles de la collection Master Control, il bénéficie d’une certification de 1000 heures de tests, et dorénavant d’une garantie de 8 ans. Avec Jaeger-LeCoultre, le temps est aussi précis que précieux.

A big-hearted

chronograph

Nearly 30 years after its launch, the incomparable classic Master Control collection is emerging from a fountain of youth to enter the third decade of the third millennium with a blend of conviction and seductive charm. Without being entirely transformed, everything about it has been rethought, from exterior to movement. The first four models embody this surge of sophistication, the most strongly evolved being the automatic triple-calendar chronograph, a unique combination within the collections from the Grande Maison in Le Sentier. The refinement of the dial is equaled only by the finishing of the case with its slender, delicately satin-brushed lugs, striking an understated contrast with the polished bezel. If the color of the case is surprising, that is because it is crafted from a new alloy of pink gold and palladium, christened Le Grand Rose gold. The transparent sapphire caseback reveals a brand-new movement, naturally made by the Manufacture : Caliber 759, equipped with a column-wheel chronograph featuring a vertical clutch and silicon escapement. The perfectly legible double counter and triple calendar indications do not interfere with those of the time. Like all models in the Master Control collection, it benefits from a 1,000-hour test certification and now comes with an eight-year guarantee. With Jaeger-LeCoultre, time is as precise as it is precious.

DAVID CHOKRON

Hermès Arceau l’Heure de la Lune BOÎTE : or gris, verre et fond en saphir transparent, étanche à 30 m (3 bar)

TAILLE : 43 mm de diamètre

MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage automatique, calibre H1937

FONCTIONS : heures et minutes, date, chacun sur un sous-cadran rotatif, affichage des phases de lune dans chaque hémisphère

CADRAN : météorite lunaire, lunes en nacre gravée, cadrans mobiles laqués brun dégradé BRACELET : alligator havane mat sur boucle déployante en or gris SÉRIE LIMITÉE DE 36 EXEMPLAIRES

Hermès Arceau l’Heure de la Lune CASE : white gold, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 30 m

SIZE : 43mm diameter MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Caliber H1937 FUNCTIONS : hours and minutes, date, each on a rotating subdial, moon-phase display in each hemisphere DIAL : lunar meteorite, engraved mother-ofpearl moons, mobile brown-lacquered dials

STRAP : matt Havana alligator leather with a white gold folding clasp LIMITED EDITION OF 36

Moon on moon

When Hermès revealed its take on astronomical complications, embodied by the Arceau L’heure de la lune, it was unveiling a whole new approach that involved overturning traditional moon-phase display codes. With this model, the Parisian brand was entering a territory adjacent to its previous works, imbued with a subtly offbeat conceptual vision and tinged with a certain sense of humor. Poetic time was followed by quirky astronomy. Instead of a small disk beneath a dial, the age of our nocturnal satellite was given by two mobile dials : one for the hours and minutes and another for the date. In the course of their rotation (which lasts 59 days), they play a perpetual game of hide-and-seek with the moon in the background : one for each hemisphere, made of white mother-of-pearl applied to an aventurine or meteorite plate. Hermès is extending this inverted vision with a new interpretation, in which the dial background is made of lunar meteorite. Its origin is clearly identified and refers to the precise point that dominates our night sky. Ripped from its original planet by shocks dating back thousands of years, this speckled fragment composes a doubly spatial and poetic picture.

Lorsqu’Hermès a révélé sa vision des complications astronomiques, incarnées par l’Arceau l’Heure de la Lune, une approche nouvelle s’était fait jour. Celle d’une inversion des codes de l’affichage des phases de lune. Avec ce modèle, la marque parisienne pénétrait sur un territoire adjacent à ses œuvres précédentes, pétries d’un recul conceptuel et non dénuées d’un certain sens de l’humour. Au temps poétique succédait une astronomie décalée. Au lieu d’un petit disque sous un cadran, l’âge de notre astre nocturne était donné par deux cadrans mobiles, celui des heures et des minutes ainsi que celui de la date. Dans leur rotation (qui dure 59 jours), ils occultent la lune en arrière-plan, une pour chaque hémisphère, faite de nacre blanche posée sur une plaque d’aventurine ou de météorite. Hermès prolonge cette vision inversée avec une nouvelle exécution, où l’arrière-plan du cadran est exécuté en météorite lunaire. Son origine est clairement identifiée et nous renvoie vers ce point précis qui domine notre ciel nocturne. Arrachée à sa planète d’origine par des chocs remontant à des milliers d’années, ce fragment moucheté compose un tableau doublement spatial et poétique.

Focus LOUIS MOINET

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Le temps venu

de l’espace

Auteur du Traité d’Horlogerie et inventeur du chronographe dans la première moitié du 19e siècle, Louis Moinet aurait été fier de celui qui lui a rendu ses lettres de noblesse et œuvre à la destinée des Ateliers Louis Moinet depuis l’aube du troisième millénaire. Non seulement Jean-Marie Schaller a rétabli le cours de l’histoire en révélant sa paternité du chronographe, mais il construit des collections cohérentes à la fois contemporaines et dans la pure lignée des domaines de prédilection du professeur des Beaux-Arts qu’était Louis Moinet. Selon l’inspiration, ces dernières tendent vers hier, aujourd’hui ou demain. Mise sur orbite à l’occasion des Geneva Watch Days, la nouvelle série limitée Space Revolution place la marque dans une nouvelle dimension. Ce double tourbillon orbital met en scène les vaisseaux du bien et du mal évoquant la Guerre des Etoiles qui se croisent 18 fois par heure, chacun sur un axe à l’autre bout duquel une cage de tourbillon volant est suspendue, réalisant une rotation par minute. Celui du haut effectue un tour en 5 mn dans le sens horaire, celui du bas en 10 mn en sens inverse. Cette complication métaphysique nécessite un mécanisme de 471 composants dont 6 roulements à billes en céramique, et comprend aussi un sélecteur de fonctions au verso pour le remontage et la remise à l’heure. L’humour n’étant jamais très loin de ses créations, le dôme de verre en saphir qui englobe ce mini-univers indique la vitesse de la lumière.

Space Revolution

BOÎTIER : or 18k, fond saphir, étanche à 10 m DIAMÈTRE : 43,5 mm MOUVEMENT : mécanique à remontage manuel (calibre LM 104, 48 h de réserve de marche), double tourbillon volant orbital, 471 composants, antichoc, incabloc FONCTIONS : heures, minutes, sélecteur de fonctions au dos pour remontage/mise à l’heure CADRAN : 2 vaisseaux en suspension se croisant 18 fois par heure BRACELET : alligator avec boucle déployante

Time from outer

space

Author of the Traité d’Horlogerie and inventor of the chronograph in the first half of the 19th century, Louis Moinet would have been proud of the man who revived his reputation and has been presiding over the destiny of Ateliers Louis Moinet since the dawn of the third millennium. Not only has Jean-Marie Schaller rewritten history by revealing Moinet’s paternity of the chronograph, but he is also building coherent collections that are both contemporary and entirely in tune with the fields favored by Louis Moinet who was among other things a professor of Fine Arts. Depending on the inspiration, these watch lines are oriented towards past, present or future. Launched into orbit on the occasion of the Geneva Watch Days, the new Space Revolution limited series is propelling the brand into a whole new dimension. This double orbital tourbillon features the ‘spaceships’ of good and evil evoking Star Wars, which cross paths 18 times an hour, each on an axis at the other end of which a flying tourbillon cage is suspended, spinning on its own axis once per minute. The upper ‘spaceship’ makes a five-minute clockwise rotation, and the lower one a tenminute rotation in the opposite direction. This metaphysical complication calls for a mechanism with 471 components, including six ceramic ball bearings, and also features a function selector on the back for winding and time-setting. Creations from the Maison often include a humorous touch, as illustrated here by the sapphire crystal dome encompassing this mini-universe and indicating the speed of light.

Space Revolution

CASE : 18K gold, sapphire crystal caseback, waterresistant to 10m

DIAMETER : 43.5mm

MOVEMENT : mechanical hand-wound (Caliber LM 104, 48-hour power reserve), double orbital flying tourbillon, 471 components, incabloc shock-absorbers

FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, function selector on the back for winding/ timesetting

DIAL : two suspended ‘spaceships’ crossing paths 18 times per hour

STRAP : alligator leather with folding clasp

PURNELL

Escape II Carbon

BOÎTIER : carbone forgé DIMENSIONS : 48 mm x 19 mm MOUVEMENT : calibre CP03 à remontage manuel ; double tourbillon à trois axes ; 32 heures de réserve de marche

CADRAN : ruthénium noir avec aiguilles des heures et des minutes polies à la main, index laqués pour les indications de l’heure, des minutes et de la réserve de marche

FONCTIONS : tourbillon triaxial, heures, minutes, réserve de marche

BRACELET : disponible en véritable cuir d’alligator ou en caoutchouc naturel

Escape II Carbon

CASE : forged carbon DIMENSIONS : 48mm x 19mm MOVEMENT : Mechanical hand winding Caliber CP03 ; double triple-axis tourbillons ; 32-hour power reserve DIAL : Black ruthenium dial with hand-polished hour and minute hands, lacquered indices for hours, minutes and power-reserve indicators

FUNCTIONS : triple-axis tourbillon, hours, minutes and power-reserve indicator

STRAP : available in genuine crocodile leather or natural rubber

Double duty

Après avoir percé dans l’industrie en 2016 avec le tourbillon Spherion à trois axes, la marque horlogère indépendante Purnell a décidé qu’à deux, c’est mieux et a présenté le Tourbillon Escape II en début d’année. Il est maintenant disponible dans un boîtier en carbone forgé avec les cages du double tourbillon triaxial de couleur vert foncé. Avec ses 48 mm de diamètre et un verre saphir conçu spécialement pour que les tourbillons triaxiaux puissent être admirés parfaitement, l’Escape II Carbon n’est pas précisément discrète. Mais si on porte le double tourbillon triaxial le plus rapide du monde (tournant à 8, 16 et 30 secondes pour chaque cage de tourbillon) à son poignet, passer incognito n’est pas une option. Cependant, grâce au boîtier en carbone forgé, la montre est plus légère, 50,53 grammes, donc 35 % de moins que la version initiale en titane. Le cadran est en ruthénium noir avec les aiguilles des heures et des minutes polies à la main et des index laqués verts, assortis à la couleur des cages de tourbillon. Alors que la complication elle-même était déjà suffisamment impressionnante, la combinaison du boîtier en carbone forgé avec les index et les cages de tourbillon vert brillant est visuellement saisissante. Le résultat est une pièce extraordinaire dotée d’une véritable puissance mécanique.

After its breakthrough in 2016 with the triple-axis Spherion tourbillon, independent watchmaking brand Purnell decided that two are better than one, presenting the Escape II Tourbillon earlier this year. The latter is now available in a case made of forged carbon with the spinning double triple-axis tourbillon cages in intense green. At 48mm with a specially-made curved sapphire crystal so the triple-axis tourbillons can be in full, unobstructed view, the Escape II Carbon isn’t exactly discreet – but with the world’s fastest double triple-axis tourbillon (rotating at 8, 16, and 30 seconds respectively for each tourbillon cage) on your wrist, staying incognito isn’t in the cards. However, with the forged carbon case, the watch is lighter, weighing 50.53 grams, or 35 % less than the initial titanium version. The dial is black ruthenium with hand-polished hour and minute hands, as well as green-lacquered indices to match the green of the tourbillon cages. While the complication alone was impressive enough, the combination of the matt forged carbon case with the glossy green indices and tourbillon cages is visually striking. The result is an outstanding piece backed by real mechanical power.

Dès l’objet de ce banc d’essai connu, une interrogation survint. Qu’en est-il de la légitimité d’un tourbillon dans une collection sportive ? Le nom Overseas offre déjà une réponse à cette question qui nous renvoie au 18e siècle et au fameux « Longitude Act » qui conduisit les horlogers et John Harrison en particulier en une quête inédite de chronométrie. La navigation maritime avait alors besoin d’instruments de mesure du temps de grande précision. Intellectuellement, le nom Overseas justifie donc parfaitement l’utilisation d’un régulateur à tourbillon. Nous verrons par ce test que le bon sens de cette montre ne se limite pas au nom de la collection à laquelle elle appartient. Les développeurs et horlogers de Vacheron Constantin ont en effet pensé chaque détail de ce nouveau modèle en absolue cohérence.

L’HABILLAGE :

Saluons d’abord le choix de l’acier dans lequel est usiné le boitier de cette Overseas. La résistance et la longévité de ce matériau font sens pour une telle montre qui réhabilite pleinement la noblesse horlogère de cet alliage. Le design de la collection s’inscrit comme un classique intemporel dont l’acquéreur ne se lassera pas après quelques années. Les dimensions (42.5 mm de diamètre), mais surtout les proportions sont remarquables d’autant plus que nous avons à faire à un mouvement automatique régulé par un tourbillon. Livré avec un bracelet confortable en acier ainsi qu’un bracelet en alligator et un troisième en caoutchouc interchangeables par l’ingénieux système qui caractérise la collection, le tourbillon Overseas s’adaptera avec une rare élégance à toutes les situations d’un usage quotidien.

Dans ce chapitre dédié à l’habillage, la mention spéciale revient indiscutablement au somptueux cadran laqué d’un bleu aussi profond qu’envoûtant. Cette pure merveille parvient à conjuguer élégance, raffinement et sobriété sans le moindre compromis. Sa lisibilité nocturne et diurne, quelles que soient la lumière et la luminosité est sans faille.

As soon as the object of this test bench became known, the question arose regarding the legitimacy of a tourbillon in a sports watch collection. The name Overseas already offers an answer to this question, taking us back to the 18th century and the famous “Longitude Act” that drove watchmakers, and John Harrison in particular, to embark on an unprecedented quest for chronometry. At that time, maritime navigation required highly accurate time measuring instruments. On an intellectual level, the name Overseas therefore perfectly justifies the use of a tourbillon regulator. We will see from this test that the common sense embodied in this watch is not confined to the name of the collection to which it belongs. The developers and watchmakers at Vacheron Constantin have indeed thought through every detail of this new model in a totally coherent manner.

EXTERIOR :

First of all, let’s salute the choice of stainless steel from which the case of this Overseas is machined. The resistance and longevity of this material make sense for such a watch that beautifully highlights the horological pedigree of this alloy. The design of the collection is timeless, a classic that the client will not tire of after a few years. The 42.5mm diameter and above all the proportions are remarkable, all the more so in that this a tourbillon-regulated self-winding movement. Delivered with a comfortable stainless steel bracelet as well as a alligator leather strap and a third rubber strap – all interchangeable thanks to the ingenious system characteristic of the collection, the Overseas tourbillon will adapt with rare elegance to all situations in daily use.

In this section dedicated to the exterior, the splendid dial lacquered in a deep and bewitching blue undoubtedly deserves a special mention. This pure wonder manages to combine elegance, refinement and understatement without the slightest compromise. Its readability by day and night, whatever the light and brightness, is simply flawless.

LE MOUVEMENT :

Les tourbillons automatiques sont rares. Les principaux obstacles à la combinaison de ces deux complications sont la volumétrie du mouvement et l’occultation de la cage de tourbillon par la masse oscillante. Les techniciens de Vacheron Constantin ont apporté une solution brillante à ces deux problèmes en développant une masse oscillante périphérique. Celle-ci s’intègre dans l’épaisseur du mouvement sans porter ombrage à la transparence de la cage du tourbillon. La fréquence chère aux horlogers de 2.5 Hz évoque les chronomètres de marine dont ce tourbillon Overseas est l’un des plus nobles descendants et permet d’obtenir une très confortable autonomie de 80 heures. Les finitions et la décoration du mouvement contribuent également à l’absolue cohérence de cette montre. Les anglages contrastent somptueusement avec les Côtes de Genève verticales et permettent au calibre 2160 d’arborer fièrement le poinçon de Genève dont les exigences sont largement surpassées par le délicat pont de cage emblématique en croix de Malte et le berçage du pont supérieur de tourbillon qui scelle l’appartenance de cette montre à l’univers restreint de la très haute horlogerie artisanale.

MOVEMENT :

Self-winding tourbillons are few and far between. The main impediments to combining these two complications are the volume of the movement and the fact that the tourbillon carriage would normally be hidden from view by the oscillating weight. Vacheron Constantin’s technicians have provided a brilliant solution to these two problems by developing a peripheral oscillating weight, integrated into the movement thickness with-out obscuring the view of the tourbillon carriage. The 2.5 Hz frequency cherished by watchmakers and adopted by this model evokes marine chronometers – of which this Overseas tourbillon is one of the noblest heirs – as well as ensuring a very comfortable 80-hour power reserve. The movement finishing and decoration also contribute to the absolute coherence of this watch. The chamfering strikes a splendid contrast with the vertical Côtes de Genève and enables Caliber 2160 to earn and proudly bear the Geneva seal. The latter’s stringent requirements are clearly met and surpassed by the delicate Maltese cross-shaped tourbillon carriage bridge, as well as the rounding off featured on the upper tourbillon bridge, which confirms the standing of this watch at the very pinnacle of hand-crafted haute horlogerie.

LES TESTS :

C’est l’un des prototypes de cette nouvelle référence qui nous a été remis par Vacheron Constantin pour ce banc d’essai. Les implorations à l’indulgence du département communication des marques sont habituelles en pareilles circonstances. Dans ce cas-là, elles étaient pour ainsi dire totalement injustifiées. Comme en atteste notre tableau de mesures, les marches sont certes situées dans une portion un peu haute mais leur regroupement très serré atteste du niveau exceptionnel de chronométrie atteint ici. Une simple correction du réglage à l’issue de ce banc d’essai permettra aux horlogers de Vacheron Constantin de ramener l’ensemble de ces marches au plus près du zéro. Aussi performant qu’ingénieux, le mécanisme automatique est lui aussi d’une efficacité redoutable.

TESTS :

For this test bench, Vacheron Constantin entrusted us with a prototype of this new reference. Pleas for indulgence from the brand’s communication department are customary in such circumstances. In this case, they were almost totally unjustified. As can be seen from our measurement table, the variations in rate are indeed slightly on the high side, yet their very tight grouping attests to the exceptional level of chronometry achieved here. Merely adjusting the setting at the end of this test bench will enable Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers to bring all these rates back as close to zero as possible. The high-performing and ingenious self-winding mechanism is also extremely efficient.

POSITIONS

MESURES / MEASUREMENTS

Vertical / mesure 3 min Vertical / 3 min measurement

0H : Plein Armage Marche (sec/j) / Rate (sec/day) 6.5 4.3 6.0

0Hrs : Fully wound Amplitude / Amplitude 309 291 267

24H après Marche (sec/j) / Rate (sec/day) 6.3 7 7.9

24Hrs later Amplitude / Amplitude 270 276 238

Le magazine GMT célèbre cette année ces 20 ans d’existence et nombre de montres d’exception sont passées sur notre banc d’essai. Ce tourbillon Overseas est certainement l’une de celles que nous avons le plus envie de posséder. Sa cohérence absolue dans chaque détail de sa conception, son caractère intemporel, sa discrétion nous donne foi dans l’avenir de la belle horlogerie… qui en a bien besoin.

GMT magazine is celebrating its 20th birthday this year and many exceptional watches have found their way to our test bench. This Overseas tourbillon is certainly one of the watches we most want to own. Its absolute consistency in every detail of its design, its timeless character and its discretion give us faith in the future of fine watchmaking… which is in great need of such trust.

CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ Horloger | Watchmaker

Focus

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Au nom de la montre

SERGE PANCZUK

De quoi Carrera est-elle le nom ? What’s in the name Carrera ?

Evoquons un nom qui résonne comme le doux bruit d’un Flat 6 Porsche pour tous les amateurs de belles mécaniques … Carrera…

La fameuse course Carrera Panamericana (Pan-Am) a écumé les routes mexicaines entre 1950 et 1954 et a marqué les esprits à tout jamais. Organisée par le gouvernement mexicain, sa réputation franchit rapidement les frontières du pays, et elle devint le terrain de chasse des meilleurs pilotes du monde, et des plus grandes marques. Compte tenu de sa configuration, elle battit un triste record, devenant la course la plus dangereuse au monde, tuant aussi bien des pilotes, des co-pilotes que des spectateurs. C’est d’ailleurs ce qui contribua à son annulation en 1955, date du tragique accident qui coûta la vie à plus de 80 personnes durant les 24 Heures du Mans. La Carrera Panamericana était devenue trop sulfureuse, dans un monde choqué par le drame du Mans. La « Pan-Am » disparut donc, mais sa légende ne fit que grandir.

Let’s take a moment to evoke a name that conjures up the sweet sound of a Porsche flat-six engine for all lovers of beautiful mechanics : Carrera.

The famous Carrera Panamericana (Pan-Am) race roared across the roads of Mexico between 1950 and 1954 and left a lasting impression. Organized by the Mexican government, its reputation quickly spread beyond national borders, and it became a playground for the world’s best drivers and the biggest brands. Given its configuration, it set a sad record by becoming the most dangerous race on the planet, killing drivers, co-drivers and spectators alike. This indeed contributed to its cancellation in 1955, when a tragic accident took the lives of more than 80 people during the 24 Hours of Le Mans. The Carrera Panamericana had become too scandalous in a world shocked by the Le Mans drama. The “Pan-Am” disappeared, but its legend only grew.

HASARD…

Il n’est donc pas étonnant que le fameux Jack Heuer choisît ce nom pour une nouvelle ligne de chronographes lancée en 1962. Cependant, on peut se demander comment le nom d’une course mexicaine « morte » en 1954 se retrouva sur les cadrans d’un chronographe suisse lancé à Bâle en 1963. L’histoire veut que Jack Heuer se rendit aux 12 Heures de Sebring (Floride) au début des années 60, sur invitation du Sports Car Club of America. Il y rencontra la famille de Pedro et Ricardo Rodriguez, deux légendes mexicaines du sport automobile. En évoquant les dangers de la course automobile avec les parents de ces deux pilotes, Jack Heuer entendit pour la première fois parler de la Pan-Am, cette course qui avait tué 27 pilotes en 5 ans. La famille Rodriguez se réjouissait que ses enfants n’aient pu prendre part à cette épreuve. L’ironie du sort veut cependant que les deux frères perdirent leur vie en course, l’un en 1962 et l’autre en 1971.

En y réfléchissant à deux fois, la mort de Ricardo Rodriguez en 1962, et le souvenir de la conversation de Sebring furent peut-être les éléments qui conduisirent Jack Heuer à donner ce nom à son chronographe. Carrera évoque donc aussi bien une activité – la course, une compétition – la Pan-Am, et – peut-être – un hommage – celui rendu aux pilotes disparus.

CO-VOITURAGE…

Ce qui est encore plus intéressant avec ce nom, c’est que deux marques légendaires se le partagent : TAG Heuer et Porsche. La marque allemande a participé à la Pan-Am et gagne sa catégorie en 1954, mais n’a jamais pu triompher au général. Néanmoins, les fameuses Spyder 550 ou 356A des années 50 marquèrent leur époque, et Porsche décida de leur rendre hommage 20 ans plus tard en créant les 911 Carrera RS. Donc, grâce à ce nom, TAG Heuer bénéficie d’un co-marketing non officiel mais pourtant fort utile, en liant sa montre à vocation sportive avec les bolides de Stuttgart.

PRONONCIATION…

Au-delà d’être un nom magique, je trouve que la prononciation « Carrera » est intéressante.

Le mot Carrera chante et rugit en même temps. Cela est dû à la forte dominante de « r » qui, combinée avec les « a », donne ce mélange savoureux. On y trouve à la fois de la force et de l’agressivité, et de la douceur, voire du charme mexicain, andalou voire même italien. La gamme de chronographe Carrera se doit donc de combiner ces deux attributs : douceur et agressivité.

Les premiers modèles lancés en 1963 brillaient par leur simplicité et leur esthétique dépouillée. Ce choix n’était pas forcément évident, puisqu’il pouvait paraître en décalage avec l’image sulfureuse de la Pan-Am, violente, dangereuse, extrême et sans limites. Cependant, si les Carrera étaient à l’origine très sobres, classiques et épurées, elles ont souvent évolué, présentant aujourd’hui une gamme large qui navigue entre simplicité et innovation. Et cela fonctionne, notamment grâce à son nom.

LUCK

It is thus not surprising that the famous Jack Heuer chose this name for a new line of chronographs launched in 1962. One can however wonder how the name of a Mexican race that had “died” in 1954 wound up on the dials of a Swiss chronograph launched in Bale in 1963. The story goes that Jack Heuer went to the 12 Hours of Sebring (Florida) at the start of the 1960s, at the invitation of the Sports Car Club of America. There he met the family of Pedro and Ricardo Rodriguez, two Mexican motorsport legends. While discussing the dangers of motor racing with the parents of these two drivers, Jack Heuer heard for the first time about PanAm, the race that had killed 27 drivers in 5 years. The Rodriguez family was delighted that their children were not able to take part in this event. Ironically, however, both brothers were to lose their lives while racing, one in 1962 and the other in 1971. Come to think of it, the death of Ricardo Rodriguez in 1962, as well as the memory of the Sebring conversation, may have been the elements that led Jack Heuer to name this chronograph as he did. Carrera thus evokes an activity, namely racing ; a competition, meaning the Pan-Am and perhaps a tribute to deceased drivers.

CAR-SHARING

What’s even more interesting about this name is that is shared by two legendary brands : TAG Heuer and Porsche. The German brand took part in the Pan-Am and won its category in 1954, but never managed to triumph in the overall rankings. Nevertheless, the famous Spyder 550 and 356A of the 1950s made a lasting impact on their era, and Porsche decided to pay tribute to them 20 years later by creating the 911 Carrera RS. This name thus enabled TAG Heuer to benefit from unofficial yet very useful co-marketing, by linking its sports watch with the speed machines from Stuttgart.

PRONUNCIATION

Above and beyond its status as a magical name, I find the pronunciation of the “Carrera” interesting in itself.

The word Carrera emits both a gentle lilt and a powerful roar. This is due to the strong dominance of “r”, which combines with the two As to create a delightful blend. There is a sense of strength and aggressiveness, along with a softness and charm reminiscent of Mexico, Andalusia and perhaps even Italy. The Carrera chronograph range must therefore combine these two attributes of softness and aggressiveness.

The first models launched in 1963 shone by their simplicity and uncluttered aesthetics. This was not necessarily the obvious choice, since it might have seemed somewhat out of step with the fiery image of the Pan-Am : violent, dangerous, extreme and without limits. However, while Carrera watches were originally very understated, classical and pure, they have frequently evolved and now compose a wide range of models hovering between simplicity and innovation. And the overall result is effect, not least thanks to its name. 

NON-DIT…

Est-ce que le nom Carrera est en fait un coup marketing ? D’abord, il n’a été initialement porté que 5 fois dans l’histoire (même si la course a été relancée en 1988). Mais il continue à parler aux gens et à véhiculer des images de courses, de bruit et de vitesse. Pourtant, peu savent réellement à quoi ce nom fait référence, puisqu’il peut se lire à la fois comme « course », « autoroute » ou « Panamericana ». En choisissant Carrera plutôt que Pan-Am, Jack Heuer a donc eu un éclair de génie. Il se démarquait de l’évènement luimême, tout en y restant « symboliquement » attaché. En appelant sa montre Pan-Am, ou Panamericana, il l’aurait « trop » marquée, et n’aurait pas permis de jouer autant avec ses différentes significations. En jouant sur toutes les interprétations possibles du nom, TAG Heuer peut couvrir un large spectre marketing, allant du classique « Carrera » (référence à la course « vintage ») au modernisme des Carrera 02 fortement inspirées par la vitesse, et la mécanique (référence à la course « Carrera »).

CARRERA 2.0

Nous voici en 2020. La première Carrera Panamericana s’est déroulée il y a 70 ans. Aujourd’hui, la course continue d’exister dans une forme bien plus civilisée et « vintage ». Hormis pour quelques fans de voitures, le nom Carrera est désor mais devenu générique, semblant s’être détaché de ses origines mexicaines. S’il est désormais bien ins tallé sur le cadran des montres TAG Heuer, il revient parfois sur le devant de la scène – ou sur les routes – collé sur le derrière charnu d’une 911 Carrera 4S, ou sous les traits de la mignonne Sally Carrera, jolie avocate aux yeux tendres et au corps très « Porsche », qui fait craquer son amoureux transi, le très rouge – Lightning McQueen… Hmmm… McQueen, Corvette C1 (dont un modèle participa à la Pan-Am en 1954), Sally Carrera… En y regardant de plus près, on pourrait même s’imaginer que Pixar a réalisé un bel hommage à la « Carrera », mais aussi un autre – plus discret – à TAG Heuer. Alors, en profitant de la série limitée TAG Heuer Carrera Montréal en hommage aux premiers chronos auto matiques Montréal d’Heuer en 1972, asseyons-nous tranquillement devant notre TV pour revoir Cars

UNSPOKEN

Is the Carrera name actually a marketing stunt ? To begin with, it was initially used just five times in history (even though the race was relaunched in 1988). Yet it continues to speak to people and to convey images of racing, noise and speed. However, few really know what the name really refers to, as it can be variously interpreted as referring at once to a “race”, “highway” and the “Panamericana”. Jack Heuer made a brilliant decision by choosing Carrera rather than Pan-Am. It set itself apart from the event itself, while remaining “symbolically” attached to it. Calling the watch Pan-Am, or Panamericana would have meant overplaying the connection and provided less scope for playing with its different meanings. By leveraging every possible interpretation of the name, TAG Heuer has been able to cover a wide marketing spectrum, from the classic “Carrera” (a reference to the “vintage” race) to the modernism of the Carrera 02, strongly inspired by speed and mechanics (a nod to the “Carrera” race).

CARRERA 2.0

Here we are in 2020. The first Carrera Panamericana took place 70 years ago and the race now lives on in a far more civilized and “vintage” form. Except for a few car enthusiasts, the name Carrera has now become somewhat generic, seemingly detached from its Mexican origins. Although it is now firmly established on the dial of TAG Heuer watches, it sometimes plays a starring role on the voluptuous curves of a 911 Carrera 4S ; or appears in the guise of the delightful Sally Carrera (a fictional character in the computer animated film Cars) a pretty attorney with soft eyes and a very “Porsche-like” body who thrills her red-clad love interest “Lightning” McQueen.

Hmmm… McQueen, a Corvette C1 (of which one model took part in the Pan-Am in 1954), Sally Carrera : on closer inspection, one might even imagine that Pixar had created a nice tribute to the “Carrera”, as well as another more discreet nod to TAG Heuer. So, while enjoying the new TAG Heuer Carrera Montreal limited edition created in homage to Heuer’s original 1972 Montreal automatic chronographs, we can settle in front of our TV to enjoy a rerun of Cars !

3

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Human-scale yachts have found their Yoda, and it has two hulls. At once more generous and more respectful of the environment, more autonomous and more stable, this elegantly designed vessel takes its passengers to places where light and space have no limits.

2 GOLDMUND, LE SON SWISS MADE

La société genevoise Goldmund est au 4e Art ce que Richard Mille est à l’horlogerie, le nec plus ultra en matière d’innovation et de design. Sa technologie acoustique brevetée à base d’algorithmes est utilisée dans les home cinémas sur-mesure ou ses enceintes avec ou sans fil, telles que son modèle phare, Prana.

GOLDMUND, THE SWISS MADE SOUND

The Geneva-based company Goldmund is to the 4th Art what Richard Mille is to watchmaking, the ultimate in innovation and design. Its patented algorithm-based acoustic technology is used in custom home cinemas or its wired or wireless speakers, such as its flagship Prana model.

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L’ÉTÉ INDIEN AVEC OMEGA

Look rétro et unisexe pour ces lunettes de soleil Omega, dont les branches sont décorées du fameux motif vagues de la Seamaster aux extrémités.

SUMMER WITH OMEGA

INDIAN

These Omega sunglasses rock a vintage-style unisex vibe, featuring temples adorned at each end with the famous Seamaster wave pattern.

ET REUGE CRÉA MILIARIUS

Pour son 155e anniversaire, le spécialiste des boîtes à musique mécaniques met en scène les courses de chars épiques du Circus Maximus dans une série limitée de 50 automates musicaux. Le mécanisme du Miliarius comprend 2’200 composants, chaque morceau musical dure 35 secondes.

AND REUGE CREATED MILIARIUS

For its 155th anniversary, the mechanical music box specialist stages the epic chariot races of Circus Maximus in a limited series of 50 musical automatons. The mechanism of the Miliarius consists of 2,200 components and each piece of music plays for 35 seconds.

© Nicolas Claris

Jet-Set

BY ZAKAA URBAN ZAKAAURBAN.COM

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INITIO OUD FOR GREATNESS

Extremely pleasant with a hint of patchouli and musk; Initio Black Gold project is an undeniable olfactory sensation.

Main Notes: Natural Oud Wood, Agar Wood Oil, Lavender, Saffron, Patchouli, Musk

2 FRANK MULLER CRAZY HOURS

Fresh and intensely citrus with wood notes, Crazy Hours is an expression of distinctly refreshing scents mingled together for an overall exceptional fragrance.

Top notes are Mandarin Orange, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Lemon, Rosemary, Basil and Clary Sage; Middle notes are Violet, Ozonic notes, Lavender, Rose, Orris Root, Cardamom, Pepper and Pink Pepper; Base notes are Patchouli, Vetiver, Amber, Vanilla and Musk.

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3 XERJOFF JTC-COMMANDANTE

From the collection “Join The Club”, Comandante captures the intense pleasure of savoring the finest cigar with its tobacco and vanilla heart! Top notes are Lemon and orange, Middle notes are leather, honey, labdanum and all spice, Base notes are vanilla, cedar, patchouli and tobacco

4 VERTUS NIGHT DOSE

Delightfully unique Night Dose is a rich blend of spicy nuances, exquisite flowers and precious warm woods to create an oriental unisex fragrance. Top notes are Mirabelle, Plum, Saffron, Apple and Grapefruit; Middle notes are Damask Rose, Coconut, Lily-of-the-Valley, Heliotrope, Peach, Jasmine and Orris Root; Base notes are Cedar, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Tobacco and Tonka Bean.

5 XERJOFF ALEXANDRIA II

Alexandria II is an alluring and captivating fragrance with base notes of sandalwood, agarwood, vanilla, amber and musk that create an irresistible woody oriental unisex fragrance. Top notes are Palisander Rosewood, Lavender, Cinnamon and Apple; Middle notes are Rose, Cedar and Lily-of-the-Valley; Base notes are Agarwood (Oud), Sandalwood, Vanilla, Amber and Musk.

6 WIDIAN – DELMA

Delma’s olfactory journey is a unisex powdery floral fragrance with an oriental saffron touch. The sensual floral notes weave a delicious web of contrast with the tangy fruity scents. Top notes are Peach, Heliotrope, Mandarin Orange and Bergamot; middle notes are Freesia, Jasmine, Nutmeg and Geranium; base notes are Marshamallow, Saffron, Leather, Woody Notes and Patchouli.

7 ORMONDE JAYNE – XANDRIA

Piqued by notes of apple, rum and a musky dry down of dry amber, Xandria is a richly exquisite earthy fragrance evoking a sense of nostalgia. Top notes are Rum, Palisander Rosewood and Apple; middle notes are Ceylon Cinnamon and Tonka Bean; base notes are Amber, Earthy Notes, Agarwood (Oud), Musk and Guaiac Wood.

8 LA CLOSERIE - OUD AMBRE CANELLE

Two worlds merged in a bottle, a fragrance for men and women. Soft yet bold, sweet yet dark with sensual shades of cinnamon and myrrh, Oud Ambre Canelle is an irresistible woody spicy unisex fragrance. Top notes are Bergamot, Bitter Orange and Rose; middle notes are Cinnamon, Sandalwood, Guaiac Wood and Cedar; base notes are Amber, Vanilla, Patchouli and Myrrh.

9 ALYSON OLDOINI – RHUM D’HIVER

Beautifully warm with a spicy woody fragrance, Rhum D’hiver evokes an unmistakable sense of masculinity. Top notes are Rum, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian Lemon and Kumquat; Middle notes are Cardamom and Nutmeg; Base notes are Vetiver, Sicilian citrus, Amber and Tonka Bean

10 FRAGRANCE DU BOIS - OUD BLEU INTENSE

Bracing and intense with a spicy woody fragrance, Oud Bleu Intense is deeply intoxicating and magnificent. Top notes are Mandarin Orange, Cardamom and Nutmeg; Middle notes are Olibanum, Amber, Labdanum and Myrrh; Base notes are Agarwood (Oud), Opoponax, Myrrh, Styrax and Benzoin.

Jet-Set JET SET

BY ZAKAA URBAN

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EMFORM GLOBE – TERRA

Looking to travel the world in your room or just a beautiful light? This perfectly elegant LED light in a globe illuminates and visually enhances any room it is placed in. Terra is available in various strikingly beautiful colors, each color is bold and beautiful illuminated by the interior LED or not.

2 LOCHERBER – DIFFUSERS

Available in diffusers or candles, Locherber home fragrance is refreshingly different with an extravagant aroma and exuding a distinct dreamy fragrance. The fragrances from Locherber are so vast that you are guaranteed to find a fragrance that suits you and creates the right ambience in your home or office.

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3 KARE DESIGN - WIRE

COFFEE TABLE

Kare design is known for beautiful furniture and this coffee table is no different; simply extraordinary. With a finely designed circular frame and refined metal rods, this exquisite Wire round coffee table from KARE has it all. The sober yet bold design brings glamour to your home..

KARE DESIGN – SOFA SPECTRA

Impeccably designed; this retro looking sofa has the most luxurious feel with its quilting and velvet fabric. The KARE successfully merged the retro design with the modernized concept of furniture in this exquisite sofa design which blends beautifully with gold accented furniture.

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5 KARE DESIGN – WALL LAMP PARECCHI

ART HOUSE

A mix of different styles of wall lamps makes this lamp house an amazing work of art, a truly befitting alternative to coloured walls, wall papers or paintings. The most striking feature of this wall lamp is the successful combination of different designs and shapes of lamps without clutter but creating a perfectly beautiful finish.

VISIONNAIRE HOME PHILOSOPHY

Upscale, modern and stunning designs of Visionnaire furniture transforms, decorates and beautifies your living space. Each design from Visionnaire is modern, upscale with a wonderful texture to create a classy ambience in your living space.

7 KOODU SYNERGY

Available in three different sizes, the innovative Synergy, triples as a wine cooler, LED lamp and a speaker with impressive surround sound. Suitable for outdoor use and with an inbuilt battery of up to 12 hours, these state of the art speakers are ideal for camping trips, picnics and outdoor relaxation

The prestigious Fendi Casa always makes statement furniture and this Thea armchair is definitely a statement furniture. Speaking of opulence and creativity, it make an aesthetic addition to your living space with the sophisticated and beautifully design furniture. Beautifully crafted and a single piece stunner, this arm chair is an easy addition to living space

8 FENDI CASA – THEA ARMCHAIR

BY ZAKAA URBAN

ZAKAAURBAN.COM

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RUARK AUDIO – R7 MK3

From the outstanding walnut design to high fidelity radiogram feature, alone or in multi room sync, beautifully designed Ruark R7 audio delivers an outstanding and immersive sound for veracious music lovers. Alone, the R7 produces wonderful sound, in multi-room sync, the sound is simply ground breaking.

2 RUARK AUDIO – R5

Sticking to the characteristic beautiful walnut color, R5 has an astounding design, a slick control system and delivers a superior and mesmerizing sound. Also with an impressive multi room function, the R5 can be linked to a TV or other Ruark audio products for a complete home entertainment solution

SACKIT – MOVEIT

Georgous for your home or on the go, Move-it X is a well thought through Danish designed speaker. Not only does the stunning Moveit X come with a changeable front, it is also versatile, has a battery life of up to 12 hours and produces an amazing compact sound. The wireless speakers also feature a USB port for phone charging so you enjoy uninterrupted immersive music.

4 NAIM MU-SO

5 NAIM MU-SO QB

6 SACKIT – TOUCHIT

The extraordinarily comfortable and stylish over ear TouchIt headphones are your ideal on-the-move music companion. Available in gold, silver and black with active noise cancelling feature adding to its overall appeal, these headphones have a sophisticated finish and are functional yet stylish. .

7 DEVIALET GOLD PHANTOM OPERA DE PARIS REACTOR

The Gold phantom makes a bold visual statement attributed to its elegant and superb design and boasting of an outstanding bass quality. With the Opera de Paris, the bold statement is beautifully made with a gold leaf design to mimic the gilded interiors of the opera’s auditorium. Devialet gold phantom Opera de Paris delivers detailed and accurate sound no matter the volume, simply remarkable.

8 DEVIALET GEMINI EARBUDS

What best way to have the amazing Devialet sound wherever you go than earbuds reminiscent of the iconic phantom. Gemini earbuds have three levels of active noise cancellation and the exceptional sound quality that is synonymous with Devialet. The remarkable earbuds is packed with state of the art technology such as its ear active matching that automatically tunes audio to the users ear.

9 DEVIALET PHANTOM

Similar to every creation of Devialet, the phantom speakers have an extra ordinary sound quality whilst being aesthetically pleasing. The speaker is available in matte black, jet black and iconic white.

Jet-Set JET SET

BY ZAKAA URBAN

A superb kitchen invention from Caso, these wine coolers can be virtually controlled from anywhere. The additional compression technology creates an optimal climate for your good wines, the wine cooler compressor also has active ventilation that ensures air circulation at each temperature zone and creates an even temperature.

2 CASO DESIGN – SOUND & COOL LOUNGE TABLE

As far as innovation in home appliances go, this lounge table tops the chart; a combination of an intense sound bar, a superlative beverage cooler and a beautifully crafted lounge table. The combination of these three features does not in any way diminish the quality of each beautiful and top notch feature; from amazing sound to complete cooling function and a wonderfully designed lounge table.

3 SMEG MINI REFRIDGERATOR

Luxurious catnip, this retro looking mini fridge proves that good things can come in small packages. Asides from the cute retro design, its excellent storage capacity despite being a mini fridge and adequate chilling feature, it has a high tech absorption system that ensures the fridge stays noiseless except during the initial power up phase.

4 PEUGOET SPICE MILLS

The attention grabbing iconic shape of Peugoet spice mills is undeniable, coupled with its two stage grinding mechanism; these mills grace the tables of all noteworthy chefs worldwide.

5 PEUGOET WHISKY GLASS

Specifically designed to enhance the taste of whisky, the exquisitely designed Peugeot whisky glass releases the concentrated aroma of whisky from the center of the glass. This unique feature increases the experience of whisky by exciting the olfactory nerves before the first drop of whisky even touches your tongue.

6 SAMSONITE PROXIS

Nothing speaks more of class than a super stylish wheelie travel case that is fully recyclable, has a dedicated USB port with a power bank pouch and is highly resilient and resistant to cracks or breaks!

1 CASO DESIGN – WINE COOLER COMPRESSOR

7 ETIENNE AIGNER

This boxy satchel bag in cordovan red is a statement making piece with a bold look. The interior is lined in canvas and the bag is equipped with an adjustable crossbody strap and top handle.

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SAMSONITE KONNECT-I SLIM BACKPACK

With Jacquard™ by Google, this smart backpack allows you to stay connected while on the go notwithstanding the exceptional quality and comfort that Samsonite bags are well known for.

TUMI ALPHA 3 COLLECTION

All luggages in Tumi’s Alpha 3 collection are designed to survive the tough love of baggage users with great impact resistance due to its fabric made from the ultra durable FXT ballistic nylon. Tumi’s Alpha 3 softshell range of suitcases, backpacks and more are outstanding in design, innovation, superb practicality and durability.

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NATIVE UNION DROP XL WIRELESS CHARGER

Compact with an attractive design, optimized for the modern lifestyle and boasting of an expanded wireless surface, Drop XL can charge up to 3 devices at once. The non-skid bottom of the charger, braided cord and expanded surface all make for an amazing effortless charging at its best!

Jet-Set

BY ZAKAA URBAN

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1 ZILLI

Year in, year out, every look book from Zilli offers exquisitely tailored blazers in either wool, cashmere, silk or a combination of more than one fabric. With Zilli, there is always a suitable blazer for every occasion.

SANTONI LEATHER DOUBLE BUCKLE SHOES

Double or single buckle, whatever your choice or style, with Santoni shoes, you are guaranteed impeccably designed and stylish shoes.

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5 ZAKAA SNEAKERS

CHARRIOL FOREVER MIXED NUMERALS

Always out to make a design statement, Charriol didn’t miss the mark with this.

Forever mixed numeral is an astonishingly beautiful 32mm female timepiece available in stainless steel and rose gold.

4 CHARRIOL RING CELTIC

Designed by an enhancement of the celtic torque, Ring Celtic has an iconic woven cable design with highly polished steel details that speaks volumes of class and opulence.

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No expense to detail was spared in crafting these phyton skin sneakers; from the aesthetic to the feel, the sneakers are simply astounding with top notch comfort!

SAMA EYEWEAR - NO HUNGER

This full rimmed aviator bad boy is grandeur defined. The titanium sunglasses are perfectly designed for functionality and style.

53 Gana street, Maitama, Abuja TEL: +234 814 000 0265 zakaaurban.com

Photoshoot

Bongénie Summer Style

JOY CORTHÉSY

L’été est là ! Chez GMT, nous avons décidé de célébrer cette saison avec style lors de cette séance photos avec notre partenaire de distribution Bongénie Grieder, qui a eu l’amabilité de nous fournir une sélection d’accessoires pour vous inspirer cet été.

Summer is here ! At GMT we decided to celebrate this season in style during this photoshoot with our distribution partner, Bongénie Grieder, who kindly provided us with a selection of accessories to inspire your summer fashion.

BVLGARI

SERPENTI SEDUTTORI SAC À MAIN CALLISTA CALLISTA HANDBAG

JAQUET DROZ

GRANDE SECONDE QUANTIÈME CHEMISE FEDELI, CHAUSSURES SANTONI, BLAZER LUIGI BORRELLI FEDELI SHIRT,

SANTONI SNEAKERS, LUIGI BORRELLI BLAZER

PANERAI

LUMINOR MARINA FIBRATECH™ BLAZER LUIGI BORRELLI & CHAUSSURES TOD’S LUIGI BORRELLI BLAZER & TOD’S LOAFERS

REBELLION

RE-VOLT BRUNO SENNA CHEMISE BARBA, GANTS DE REBELLION BARBA LINEN SHIRT, GLOVES FROM REBELLION

L’Heure du Chef

LOUIS-OLIVIER MAURY

Le Chef Tsukada a créé le Shima Japanese Street Food sur l’Île Rousseau en face de l’Hôtel Four Seasons des Bergues, écrin de plaisirs ouvert aux beaux jours pour découvrir la fascinante palette gustative de la cuisine street food nippone.

Chef Tsukada created the Shima Japanese Street Food on Rousseau Island opposite the Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues, a delightful place open during the sunny season in order to discover the fascinating range of flavors to be found in Japanese street food.

Mitsuru Tsukada

L’art culinaire a son Sensei The culinary art has its Sensei

Veritable shinobi par sa discrétion révérencieuse, toute en retenue, le jeune Chef quadragénaire Mitsuru Tsukada est en vérité un véritable Daïmio 大名 de la cuisine nikkei en Suisse et au-delà. Formé par le Maître de ce style culinaire Nobu Matsuhisa, il a su créer avec succès sa propre identité gastronomique au restaurant Izumi de l’Hôtel Four Seasons des Bergues à Genève. Synergies d’un savoir-faire gastronomique ancestral nippon et de la richesse (entre autres) des saveurs relevées d’Amérique latinopéruvienne, il est le Sensei de son art. Son implication et sa précision dans l’alchimie des goûts et des ingrédients dans la réalisation des menus le prouvent, d’ailleurs d’autres restaurants du groupe Four Seasons à Megève en passant par Madrid, Beyrouth et prochainement Budapest font appel à sa créativité.

Atrue Shinobi in terms of his reverential and restrained discretion, the young chef in his forties, Mitsuru Tsukada, is a true Daïmio 大名 of Nikkei Cuisine in Switzerland and beyond. Trained by the master of this culinary style, Nobu Matsuhisa, he has successfully created his own gastronomic identity at the Izumi restaurant of the Four Seasons Hôtel des Bergues in Geneva.

Leveraging the synergies between ancestral Japanese gastronomic know-how and the richness (among other things) of the spicy flavors characterizing Latin American-Peruvian cuisine, he is the Sensei of his art. Witness his commitment and accuracy in creating menus embodying a perfect alchemy of tastes and ingredients. His creativity is also enlisted by other restaurants of the Four Seasons group in Megève, Madrid, Beirut and soon Budapest.

Chef, l’instantanéité de votre cuisine demande de la précision, quelle fut la première montre à honorer votre poignet ? Sans me tromper, à l’époque j’avais choisi une marque japonaise, durable, résistante aux contraintes de mon activité, une Casio G-Shock, capable de faire face aux défis de mes coups de feu en cuisine. Je l’ai toujours, ayant partagé avec fidélité les débuts de ma carrière à Kumamoto au Japon.

Vous avez su exporter votre talent de la Grèce, au Royaume-Uni avant de venir en Suisse, avez-vous changé de garde-temps ? Oui, effectivement, il faut savoir qu’il existe une culture japonaise pour l’horlogerie que je partage avec nombreux de mes compatriotes. A l’époque, je me suis laissé séduire par une de mes montres préférées qui se révèle aujourd’hui être aussi un investissement durable, une superbe Rolex Master GMT Pepsi 16700. Intemporelle, sport chic, elle a traversé les mers et les océans sans vieillir, contrairement à moi !

Votre arrivée à la tête du restaurant Izumi en 2013 vous a-t-elle permis d’approfondir votre passion pour les montres ? Très certainement, j’ai pu assouvir ma passion en devenant le propriétaire de deux montres axées sur la durabilité et le domaine aquatique, océanique, avec en premier lieu une Panerai PAM 88 que j’apprécie particulièrement pour la lisibilité XXL de son cadran et son look un peu vintage, militaire, emblématique. Ensuite, j’ai été attiré par une IWC Aquatimer Galapagos Island noire. Facile à porter, endurante, elle aussi allie les qualités dont j’ai besoin pour mon activité quotidienne et en dehors. Je les apprécie toutes les deux, alternant leurs utilisations.

Chef, si vous deviez choisir votre montre idéale, ce serait laquelle ?

C’est un choix cornélien, il y a tant de montres que j’aimerais posséder, mais si vous me limitez à une seule montre, sans que cela soit une évidence, je choisirais une Patek Philippe Calatrava qui englobe tous les standards de qualité que j’aime : le design, le style, la précision, la beauté, la résistance au temps qui passe et sans être philosophe, la longévité et le succès aussi.

Chef, the immediacy of your cooking requires accuracy ; which was the first watch to grace your wrist ? If I’m not mistaken, at the time I had chosen a model from a Japanese brand that was sturdily resistant to the trials of my professional activity : a Casio G-Shock, capable of facing the challenges of my intense moments in the kitchen. It faithfully accompanied the start of my career in Kumamoto, Japan and I still have it today.

You were able to export your talent to both Greece and the United Kingdom before coming to Switzerland ; have you changed timepiece too ?

Yes, indeed. It is worth pointing out that there is a Japanese culture of appreciating watchmaking that I share with many of my compatriots. At the time, I was won over by one of my favorite watches, which is now proving to be a lasting investment, a superb Rolex Master GMT Pepsi 16700. Timeless, sporty and chic, it has crossed the seas and oceans while remaining as youthful as ever, unlike me !

Did your 2013 arrival at the head of the Izumi restaurant enable you to nurture your passion for watches ?

Definitely, I have been able to satisfy my passion by becoming the owner of two watches focused on durability and the aquatic field and the oceans, first of all with a Panerai PAM 88 that I particularly appreciate for the XXL readability of its dial as well as its slightly vintage, military and emblematic look. I was subsequently attracted to a black IWC AquaTimer Galapagos Island. Easy to wear and highly durable, it also combines the qualities I need for my daily activities as well as my spare time. I like them both and alternate between them.

If you had to choose your ideal watch, what would it be ?

It’s a tough choice, as there are so many watches I would like to own, but if you limit my response to justone, yet without it being too obvious, I would choose a Patek Philippe Calatrava that encompasses all the quality standards I love : design, style, precision, beauty, resistance to the passing of time as well as – without being overly philosophical – longevity and success.

Hublot Abuja

NKEMKA UCHE

Hublo Abuja A

rare experience

Hublot boutique in Abuja is a beautiful display of Hublot’s innovative craftsmanship inspired by the Art of Fusion. The boutique’s design concept is welcoming and shows customers that Hublot is at their service right here in Nigeria. Zakaa Luxury launched the boutique in 2017 on the ground floor of Transcorp Hilton Hotel, Abuja’s best hotel for business travel. Hublot is the first Swiss watchmaker to invest in Africa with mono brand boutiques in Abuja, Nigeria (2017) and Casablanca, Morocco (2019).

In a 2016 article about Hublot and the African Market, Jean Claude Biver states “The clients have various purchase points which we have reviewed for several years hence our entry into those markets with representations.” Zakaa Luxury; Hublot’s partner brand in Nigeria was founded in 2011 by Deremi Ajidahun, a keen watch collector and GPHG Academie Member. Zakaa is a Hole19 Group company, where Deremi is also CEO.

Nigerians predominantly shop for luxury abroad, particularly in London and Dubai. However, Deremi Ajidahun has spent the last thirty years creating Africa’s leading retail network responsible for cultivating and increasing local spending on luxury. In the Hublot universe where the customer is king and product is queen, the Abuja boutique is an important meeting point for Nigerians and visiting customers.

The Abuja boutique offers customers access to limited edition watches that are not easily available in other regions at a globally competitive price point and with the Zakaa’s sales and marketing team deep understanding of their products, customers are

guaranteed an experience while they shop. This is especially attractive for local collectors who get to save on travel costs to Europe or the Middle East. The Abuja boutique also ensures that servicing requirements and customizations are carried out to the highest standard and under optimum conditions.

The African market has a high potential for growth and Nigeria in particular offers Hublot new opportunities for deepening the Art of Fusion’s diverse portfolio of partnerships. In terms of sports, Hublot loves football and Nigeria has a huge football fan base who largely watch the Premier League. Deremi Ajidahun for example is an avid fan of the football club currently managed by Jose Moutinho who the brand honored with a limited edition Big Bang Unico Special One.

The existence of a rich history of the arts and a flourishing afrobeats music scene; afrofusion, in Nigeria serves as an untapped pool for future Hublot Art and Music partnerships in the country. Afterall, the 2018 Hublot Design Prize was awarded to Dozie Kanu, a Nigerian American artist, the opportunities on the continent and specifically in Nigeria are endless.

Hublot’s Abuja boutique is a major first step in developing Africa’s watch retail industry and Nigeria provides Hublot with the right market opportunities; therefore it is important to pay close attention to the evolution of Hublot’s partnership with Zakaa Luxury.

Photoshoot

SEZNO BENSON

Une vision unique de la collection de montres de Zakaa, nous avons travaillé avec Sezno benson, producteur de l’émission Sezzify et la blogueuse Watch Nkemka Uche pour mettre en évidence le porteur unique de montres - les aiguilles. Le tournage capture magnifiquement les montres dans le contexte de leur utilisation quotidienne.

Aunique take on Zakaa’s watch collection, we worked with Sezno Benson producer of the Sezzify show and Watch blogger Nkemka Uche to highlight the one and all time bearer of watches - The hands. The shoot captures beautifully the watches in context of their everyday use

HUBLOT

CLASSIC FUSION SKELETON

BIG BANG MECA 10 TITANIUM

BIG BANG MECA 10 BLUE

CLASSIC FUSION ORLINSKI

CLASSIC FUSION CHRONOGRAPH

CLASSIC FUSION 38MM DIAMOND BEZEL

SPIRIT OFBIG BANG PAVE DIAMONDS 39MM

ZENITH

ELITE ULTRA THIN GOLD

BLUE NIGHT / H0 EAU ROUGE

GORILLA

TAG HEUER AUTAVIA

ISOGRAPH

12th ART 12e Art

BRICE LECHEVALIER

GPHG

Roadshow suisse pour la 20e édition Swiss roadshow for the 20th edition

Prévue pour le 12 novembre au Théâtre du Léman (Genève), la 20e cérémonie du Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève se déroule selon un scénario exceptionnel à tous points de vue. Bien évidemment, les conséquences du COVID-19 font planer le suspense sur le format de la cérémonie, qui réunit normalement plus de 1’200 personnes. Par ailleurs, la Fondation du GPHG a lancé son Académie inspirée des Oscars, composée de 350 personnalités du secteur horloger chargées de proposer des montres candidates, puis d’en sélectionner six dans chacune des 14 catégories afin d’établir la liste des montres finalistes. Ces 84 montres sont présentées dans les pages suivantes. Par ailleurs, cette sélection de lauréates parcourt la Suisse depuis le 15 octobre, avec pour première étape le Musée International de l’Horlogerie à La Chaux-de-Fonds (15-18 octobre). Le public peut ensuite la découvrir à Zürich chez Bucherer (20-22 octobre), à Hôtel Bellevue à Bern (23-25 octobre), puis au Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de Genève (31 octobre au 15 novembre). Enfin, le GPHG voit les montres finalistes de l’intégralité de ses millésimes depuis 2001 publiées dans le livre phénomène The Millennium Watch Book (disponible sur the-watch-book.com). La cérémonie de remise des prix ainsi que l’analyse des catégories et des résultats sont à suivre sur le site WorldTempus.com.

Scheduled for November 12th at the Théâtre du Léman (Geneva), the 20th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève ceremony will be held amid a scenario that is exceptional from every standpoint. Naturally, the consequences of COVID-19 are prolonging the suspense over the format of the ceremony, which normally brings together more than 1,200 people. In addition, the GPHG Foundation has launched its Oscar-inspired Academy, composed of 350 watch industry personalities who are responsible for proposing candidate watches, then selecting six in each of the 14 categories to establish the list of finalists. These 84 watches are presented in the following pages. In addition, this selection of laureates has been touring Switzerland since October 15th, with the Musée international d’horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds (15-18 October). The public can then enjoy a chance to view the selection in Zürich at Bucherer (20-22 October), in Bern at the Bellevue Hotel (23-25 October) and afterwards at the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire in Geneva (31 October to 15 November). Finally, the GPHG sees the finalist watches from all its editions since 2001 published in The Millennium Watch Book (available on the-watch-book.com). The

ceremony as well as the analysis of the categories and results can be followed on WorldTempus.com.

awards

En 2019, l’Aiguille d’Or a été décernée à Audemars Piguet, représentée sur scène par son CEO François-Henry Bennahmias

In 2019, the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix was awarded to Audemars Piguet, represented onstage by its CEO François-Henry Bennahmias

Le Comptoir Immobilier via sa division prestige, CI Exclusive Properties, est le partenaire principal du GPHG Through its prestige division named “CI Exclusive Properties”, the Comptoir Immobilier, is now the principal partner of the GPHG

18K King Gold case. In-house manual movement, with a 10-day power reserve.

SPIRIT OF BIG BANG MECA-10

Catégorie Dame

Analyse, résultats et cérémonie live sur worldtempus.com

Analysis, results and awards ceremony live on worldtempus.com

PIAGET

CHANEL

HERMÈS

Limelight Gala Precious Dégradé de Saphirs

Dior Grand Bal Ruban

Mademoiselle Privé Bouton perle

Miss Audrey

Lili

Arceau Petite Lune Jeté de diamants et saphirs Arceau Petite Lune Sprinkling of diamonds and sapphires

Catégorie Complication pour Dame

Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant

Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse « fleur de sel »

Altiplano Tourbillon

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Catégorie Homme

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DE BETHUNE

Catégorie Complication pour Homme

Catégorie Iconique

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IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BULGARI

GIRARD-PERREGAUX BREITLING

PIAGET SEIKO

Catégorie Chronométrie

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Catégorie Calendrier et Astronomie

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Catégorie Exception Mécanique

Catégorie Chronographe

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H. MOSER & CIE. PARMIGIANI FLEURIER

KURONO TOKYO BY LOUIS MOINET

ATELIER DE BREITLING

Catégorie Plongée

Catégorie Joaillerie

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BULGARI PIAGET

DIOR MONTRES VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

CHOPARD JACOB & CO.

Serpenti Misteriosi Intrecciati

Limelight Gala Haute Joaillerie Opale Noire

Limelight Gala High Jewellery Black Opal

Dior Grand Soir Reine des Abeilles

Montre Frivole Secrète Frivole Secrète watch

The Mystery Tourbillon Full Ruby

Magari

Catégorie Métiers d'Art

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Catégorie Petite Aiguille

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Chrono Felix Panda

Secret

Portugieser Automatic 40

BR 05 Skeleton

Sarpaneva x Moomin

Heritage '57 Limited Edition

Catégorie Challenge

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TUDOR

LOUIS ERARD

KURONO TOKYO BY

Zoom Geneva Watch Days

UNIE, l’horlogerie est plus belle

Dans toute sa diversité et sa puissance créative, la fine fleur de l’horlogerie s’est réunie en petit comité (normes de sécurité obligent) fin août lors des Geneva Watch Days. Les 17 marques participantes ont dévoilé leurs nouveautés 2020 non seulement auprès des détaillants et médias internationaux, mais également pour le plus grand plaisir du public genevois qui avait accès librement à l’espace d’exposition au bord du lac Léman en plein centre de Genève. Les marques fondatrices des Geneva Watch Days n’ont pas exclu de renouveler l’expérience au printemps, ou dans d’autres pays selon l’évolution de la situation. Toutes leurs montres sont à découvrir sur worldtempus.com. Lire aussi l’interview de leur initiateur Jean-Christophe Babin en page 28.

THE WATCH INDUSTRY displays beauty in unity

The cream of the watch industry, in all its diversity and creative power, met up at the end of August in a modestly sized format compliant with safety standards and named Geneva Watch Days. The 17 participating brands unveiled their 2020 new models not only to international retailers and media, but also to a delighted local audience that enjoyed free access to the lakeside exhibition area in the city center. Geneva Watch Days founding brands did not rule out renewing the experience in the spring, or in other countries as the situation evolves. All the watches presented can be viewed on worldtempus.com. See also the interview given by event

28.

initiator Jean-Christophe Babin on page

DE GAUCHE À DROITE : Jean-Marie Schaller (Louis Moinet), Stéphane Waser (Maurice Lacroix), Xavier de Roquemaurel (Czapek & Cie.), Yvan Arpa (ArtyA), Pierre Jacques (De Bethune), Edouard Meylan (H.Moser & Cie.), Jean-Christophe Babin (Bvlgari), Patrick Pruniaux (Girard-Perregaux & Ulysse Nardin), Georges Kern (Breitling), Max Büsser (MB&F) et Amr Alotaishan (Reuge)

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT : Jean-Marie Schaller (Louis Moinet), Stéphane Waser (Maurice Lacroix), Xavier de Roquemaurel (Czapek & Cie.), Yvan Arpa (ArtyA), Pierre Jacques (De Bethune), Edouard Meylan (H.Moser & Cie.), Jean-Christophe Babin (Bvlgari), Patrick Pruniaux (Girard-Perregaux & Ulysse Nardin), Georges Kern (Breitling), Max Büsser (MB&F) and Amr Alotaishan (Reuge)

ZoomUn Chef chez CARL F. BUCHERER

Durant les Geneva Watch Days, Carl F. Bucherer a accueilli tous les jours des membres du Fine Watch Club pour des présentations VIP chez Bucherer Genève, menées avec passion par Laurent Lecamp (Directeur commercial CBF). Les plus chanceux ont partagé cette expérience privilégiée avec Michel Roth, ambassadeur de la marque et Chef le plus primé au monde.

A chef keeps company with CARL F. BUCHERER

During the Geneva Watch Days, Carl F. Bucherer welcomed members of the Fine Watch Club daily for VIP presentations at Bucherer Geneva, passionately conducted by Laurent Lecamp (Executive Vice President Sales at Carl. F. Bucherer). Some participants were lucky enough to share this special experience with Michel Roth, brand ambassador and the world’s most titled chef.

Lingot DEGUSSA : de 1 gramme à 1 kilo !

Très prisés, les lingots d’or 24 carats de Degussa sont délivrés avec le certificat LBMA et un numéro de sécurité bancaire. Ils se déclinent en format d’un gramme à un kilogramme, dans les boutiques de Genève et Zürich mais également en ligne. En outre, Degussa met ses coffres à disposition en dehors du circuit bancaire pour les documents ou objets précieux.

DEGUSSA bars : from 1 gram to 1 kilo

Degussa’s popular 24-carat gold bars are issued with the LBMA certificate and a bank security number. They are available in formats ranging from one gram to one kilogram, in the Geneva and Zurich boutiques, as well as online. In addition, Degussa also makes its safe deposit boxes available – outside the banking sector – for documents or precious objects.

PURNELL chez Montres Prestige

Avant son exposition à Watches & Wonders Shanghai, le CEO des montres Purnell, Maurizio Mazzocchi, avait dévoilé ses dernières nouveautés auprès des connaisseurs présents à Genève, lors d’un cocktail chez Montres Prestige, et notamment une pièce unique exceptionnelle mettant en scène un double tourbillon aux cages luminescentes.

PURNELL at Montres Prestige

Prior to exhibiting at Watches & Wonders Shanghai, Purnell CEO Maurizio Mazzocchi unveiled the brand’s latest innovations to the connoisseurs present in Geneva during a cocktail party held at Montres Prestige, including an exceptional one-of-a-kind creation featuring a double tourbillon with luminescent carriages.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

L’expérience

acoustique de l’Atelier d’Antoine

Avec 180 métiers réunis au sein de sa manufacture, Jaeger-LeCoultre en met plein la vue aux visiteurs depuis longtemps. Depuis cet été, les clients VIP en repartent avec des souvenirs également plein les oreilles. Reçus à l’iconique Atelier d’Antoine par les experts acoustiques de Jaeger-LeCoultre, ils vivent une expérience captivante basée sur la perception et la maîtrise des sons. En quoi l’engrenage et la diffusion d’énergie influencent-ils le tictac de votre montre ou comment identifier une fréquence 3 Hertz dans son mouvement ? Les passionnés apprécieront de comprendre les agrégats de sons provenant de plusieurs impacts rapprochés, et les mélomanes la plus longue sonnerie de répétition minute du monde, celle de la Duomètre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie, jouant 24 notes. Cette nouvelle animation des visites de manufacture accompagne le lancement de quatre montres à sonnerie (dont deux Memovox) qui renforcent encore le palmarès inégalé de Jaeger-LeCoultre sur ce registre, avec plus de 200 calibres de montres à sonnerie conçus depuis la création de sa première répétition minutes en 1870.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The acoustic experience in the Atelier d’Antoine

Thanks to the 180 professions united within its Manufacture, JaegerLeCoultre has long been an impressive sight for visitors. Since this summer, VIP customers have also been leaving with a wealth of auditory memories. Welcomed into the iconic Atelier d’Antoine by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s acoustic experts, they enjoy a captivating experience based on the perception and mastery of sound. How do gearing and energy diffusion influence the ticking of your watch ; and how can one identify a 3 Hertz frequency in its movement ? Enthusiasts will appreciate learning to understand the aggregates of sounds coming from several impacts in close succession, and music lovers will revel in the world’s longest minute repeater chime : that of the Duomètre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie, playing 24 notes. The decision to offer this new feature enlivening Manufacture tours accompanies the launch of four striking watches (including two Memovoxes), further strengthening Jaeger-LeCoultre’s unrivalled record in this field, with more than 200 striking watch calibers designed since the creation of its first minute repeater in 1870.

Zoom BRICE LECHEVALIER

URWERK récompensé du prix Gaïa

C’est dans la catégorie « esprit d’entreprise » que le prix Gaïa est attribué au Musée International d’Horlogerie de La Chaux-de-Fonds à Felix Baumgartner et Martin Frei, fondateurs d’Urwerk. L’horloger Antoine Preziuso s’est vu distinguer dans la catégorie « artisanat et création », et l’historien Denis Savoie dans la catégorie « histoire et recherche ».

URWERK wins the Prix Gaïa

The Prix Gaïa in the “Entrepreneurship” category was awarded to Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, founders of Urwerk, at the Musée International d’Horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Watchmaker Antoine Preziuso was distinguished in the “Craftsmanship-Creation” category, and historian Denis Savoie in the “History and Research” category.

ROLEX à la Société Nautique de Genève

Lors de l’inauguration du nouveau port de la Société Nautique de Genève, plus grand yacht club suisse comptant près de 4000 membres, son président Pierre Girod a remercié Rolex pour son soutien fidèle et la pose de ses nouveaux instruments destinés aux navigateurs.

ROLEX at the Société Nautique de Genève

At the inauguration of the new port of the Société Nautique de Genève (Lake Geneva Yacht Club), the largest in Switzerland with nearly 4,000 members, its president Pierre Girod thanked Rolex for its loyal support and the installation of its new digital signage providing sailors with useful weather information.

EBERHARD au RallyLegend

Pour la 8e fois, Eberhard et son Directeur Général Mario Peserico ont renouvelé leur confiance au RallyLegend de San Marino, dont la 18e édition s’est déroulée début octobre pour le plus grand bonheur des fans de voitures de rallye.

EBERHARD at the RallyLegend

For the eighth time, Eberhard and Managing Director Mario Peserico once again partnered the RallyLegend in San Marino, of which the 18th edition took place at the beginning of October, to the delight of rally car enthusiasts.

Zoom : Ambassadeurs

JORDY BELLIDO

RICHARD MILLE Un partenaire pas si classique

Unis par leur désir d’indépendance, leur créativité et leur faculté à sortir des sentiers battus, Richard Mille et Thomas Roussel ne pouvaient que devenir partenaires. Ambassadeur musical de la Maison, le musicien français était prédestiné à une carrière dans le classique, avant de tomber amoureux de la musique électronique, sur laquelle il travaille en parallèle. Après la mode, le cinéma et le sport, Thomas Roussel met un pied dans l’horlogerie aux côtés de Richard Mille, qui prolonge donc son engagement en faveur de la création contemporaine.

RICHARD MILLE A not-so-classic partner

United by their desire for independence, their creativity and their ability to think outside the box, Richard Mille and Thomas Roussel were made to be partners. The French musician, musical ambassador for the Maison, was predestined for a career in classical music before falling in love with the world of electronic music that he had been exploring in parallel. After fashion, cinema and sport, Thomas Roussel is now entering the watchmaking world alongside Richard Mille, thus extending his commitment to contemporary design.

ALPINA Un freerider de choix

En cette année 2020, la maison horlogère accueille Markus Eder parmi ses ambassadeurs. Né le 30 novembre 1990 à Brunico, en Italie, le quasi trentenaire grandit en skiant à Klausberg, près de la frontière autrichienne. Après avoir notamment participé aux Jeux Olympiques de Sotchi, en Russie, en 2014, Markus Eder remporte le Freeride World Tour en 2019. Tout comme Alpina, Markus Eder partage l’envie de se surpasser pour atteindre de nouveaux sommets.

ALPINA A talented freerider

In 2020, the watchmaking company is welcoming Markus Eder into the ranks of its ambassadors. Born on November 30th 1990 in Brunico, Italy, the almost thirty-year-old grew up skiing in Klausberg, near the Austrian border. After participating in the 2014 Olympic Games in Sochi, Russia, Markus won the Freeride World Tour in 2019. Like Alpina, Eder shares the same desire to excel and reach new heights.

MAURON MUSY Entre horlogerie et philanthropie

Les valeurs helvétiques, constituant les fondements de Mauron Musy, font écho aux sept principes fondamentaux de la Croix-Rouge : neutralité, indépendance, humanité, universalité, impartialité, volontariat et unité. Cette raison a poussé les deux institutions à collaborer sur une série de sept montres, dont les bénéfices serviront à soutenir le programme « chili », qui sensibilise les enfants à gérer les conflits et les différends de manière constructive et non violente. Mauron Musy ne rime donc pas seulement avec « horlogerie » mais également avec « philanthropie ».

MAURON MUSY

When horology meets philanthropy

Swiss values, which form the foundations of Mauron Musy’s work, echo the seven fundamental principles of the Red Cross : neutrality, independence, humanity, universality, impartiality, voluntary service and unity. These affinities led the two institutions to decide they would collaborate on a series of seven watches, the proceeds of which will be used to support the “Chili” program, which educates children to manage conflicts and disputes in a constructive and non-violent manner. Mauron Musy thereby rhymes not only with “horology” but also with “philanthropy”.

TAG HEUER L’inspiration du soleil levant

Fondateur de Fragment Design, un label multidisciplinaire, le « Parrain du Streetwear » qu’est Hiroshi Fujiwara a collaboré avec les plus grands noms de la mode, du design et de l’art. Du côté horloger, il fait équipe avec TAG Heuer. Pour sa seconde collaboration avec la Maison, Hiroshi a réinterprété les modèles signature des années 1960 et 1970 de la manufacture, au boîtier en C. Ceci se traduit par la création du chronographe TAG Heuer x Fragment Design, un garde-temps rouge et noir épuré.

TAG HEUER Japanese inspiration

Founder of the multidisciplinary label and “Godfather of Streetwear”, Hiroshi Fujiwara has collaborated with the biggest names in fashion, design and art. On the watchmaking side, he has teamed up with TAG Heuer and for his second collaboration with the Maison, Hiroshi has reinterpreted the Manufacture’s signature models from the 1960s and 1970s, with their C-shaped case. This has resulted in the creation of the TAG Heuer x Fragment Design chronograph, a minimalist red and black timepiece.

BVLGARI Le tempo dans la peau

Fille de batteur, Tanja La Croix a la musique dans le sang. Après s’être construit une carrière dans le mannequinat, la Suissesse, basée à Zurich, décide de se lancer en tant que DJ en 2004. Soutenue par son mentor DJ Antoine, elle évolue dans la musique house. « Eternelle mais innovante, forte et flexible, luxueuse mais jamais arrogante » : voici comment la DJ-productrice décrit Bvlgari mais également sa propre personne. Ces ressemblances l’ont poussées à devenir ambassadrice de la marque cette année.

BVLGARI Feeling the beat

As the daughter of a drummer, Tanja La Croix has music in her blood. After building a career in modeling, the Zurich-based Swiss model decided to begin working as a DJ in 2004. Supported by her mentor DJ Antoine, she is currently active in the world of house music. “Timeless but innovative, strong and flexible, luxurious yet never arrogant” : this is how the DJ-comemusic producer describes Bvlgari as well as herself and these similarities led her to become an ambassador for the brand this year.

Zoom : Prendre la mer

IWC à bord de Solaris

Quand un designer horloger passionné de voile tombe amoureux d’un élégant chantier italien, cela peut donner naissance à une ligne de bateaux ! C’est ainsi que le designer d’IWC, Christian Knoop, s’est mis en tête d’apporter sa griffe à Solaris Yachts. Avec le copropriétaire et représentant suisse de Solaris, Paolo Buonvicini, ils ont complètement personnalisé le Solaris 55 dans le style IWC Portugaise.

IWC aboard Solaris

When a watch designer with a passion for sailing falls in love with an elegant Italian shipyard, the result can be the birth of a line of boats ! IWC designer Christian Knoop decided to bring his signature touch to Solaris Yachts and, together with the co-owner and Swiss representative of Solaris, Paolo Buonvicini, they have customized the Solaris 55 in the IWC Portugieser style.

ULYSSE NARDIN au Vendée Globe

Avec son ADN marin profondément ancré dans ses gènes, Ulysse Nardin voit grand en devenant le chronométreur officiel du Vendée Globe, course à la voile autour du monde en solitaire et sans escale, considérée comme l’Everest de la voile, avec un top chrono lancé le 8 novembre 2020.

ULYSSE NARDIN in the Vendée Globe

With its deeply embedded maritime DNA, Ulysse Nardin is thinking big by becoming official timekeeper of the Vendée Globe, a single-handed, nonstop round the world sailing race, considered the Everest of sailing and due to launch on November 8th 2020.

BRICE

CHANEL à Porquerolles

Déjà propriétaire à Bordeaux des châteaux Rauzan-Ségla (Margaux), Canon et Berliquet (Saint-Emilion), Chanel a jeté son dévolu sur le Domaine de l’Ile à Porquerolles, bijou de la Méditerranée où sont élaborés des vins blancs et rosés à nul autre pareil. A quand le château N°5 ?

CHANEL in Porquerolles

Already the owner in Bordeaux of the Rauzan-Ségla (Margaux), Canon and Berliquet (St Emilion) wine estates, Chanel has set its sights on the Domaine de l’Ile on the island of Porquerolles, a jewel of the Mediterranean where peerless white and rosé wines are produced. When can we expect Château N°5 ?

ALPINA recycle le plastique

Connue pour ses montres de plongée très accessibles, Alpina s’engage pour la protection des océans avec sa nouvelle collection Seastrong Diver Gyre Automatic, dont le boîtier se compose à 70 % de débris plastiques issus de filets de pêche collectés dans l’Océan Indien (renforcé de 30 % de fibres de verre pour garantir sa résistance).

ALPINA recycles plastic

Known for its highly accessible diving watches, Alpina is committing to protecting the world’s oceans with its new Seastrong Diver Gyre Automatic recovered from, whose case is 70 % composed of plastic debris from fishing nets collected in the Indian Ocean (reinforced with 30 % fiberglass to guarantee its resistance).

OMEGA fidèle à l’America’s Cup

Plus ancien trophée sportif du monde, la 36e America’s Cup se déroulera en Nouvelle-Zélande en 2021, et sera chronométrée pour la troisième fois depuis 1995 par Omega, par ailleurs sponsor du Defender Emirates Team New Zealand.

OMEGA loyal to the America’s Cup

The 36th America’s Cup, the world’s oldest sports trophy, will take place in New Zealand in 2021, and will be timed for the third time since 1995 by Omega, which also sponsors the Defender, Emirates Team New Zealand.

DAVID OSADOLOR

BREITLING

Finally available in Nigeria

Luxury Swiss watch brand Brietling, famous for precision made chronometers designed for aviators is shifting gears and repositioning with more versatile, creative and modernized timepieces. Under the leadership of Georges Kern, Brietling is now available in Nigeria in partnership with Zakaa. This partnership with Nigerian luxury watch and jewelry retailer introduces the brand and watches to the highly coveted African luxury industry. Brietling’s 2020 models as well as the most recent release of the re-edition of the 1983 frecce tricolori chronomat, which strongly affirms the brand position of multi terrain modernized timepieces, are available at the Zakaa boutiques in Nigeria and through online representation.

DAVID OSADOLOR

BELL & ROSS

Launch in Nigeria

This October, French Swiss brand, Bell & Ross complimented its ultra successful 2019 BR 05 models (40mm) with a bigger and bolder BR 05 (42mm) chronograph models. Similar to its predecessor dubbed “urban explorers” and “masculine jewels” by Bell & Ross CEO, Carlos Rosillo, the new BR 05 is available in four different references. An update of all preceding BR 05 models; the 2020 BR 05 models join the bandwagon of luxury sport watches.

The aviator timepiece makers continue to create noteworthy novelties and the BR 05 chronographs are no different with an overall sleek look, pass marks on legibility, reliability, functionality and precision. Bell & Ross timepieces are available in Nigeria through luxury retailer, Zakaa.

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DAVID OSADOLOR

CHATEAU LACROIX YOUNAN

Luxury Lifestyle Company controlled by Zaya Younan introduces its French St Emilion wines in Nigeria by partnering with Hole19 Group (HNZ) through luxury retailers Zakaa Urban (www.zakaaurban.com). Controlled by the dynamic CEO Zaya Younan, the premium wines are produced from the Younan vineyards; Chateau La Croix Younan and Chateau Zaya, which are known to sacrifice quantity for quality. From the prestigious 2017 Chateau La Croix Younan Saint Emilion Grand cru to the Chateau Zaya Rose, Blanc de Zaya and 2018 Chateau Zaya Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, each bottle is of remarkable taste with a rich and completely satisfying flavor profile.

ZoomDAVID OSADOLOR

ZILLI LAUNCH

In an incredible partnership with Zakaa luxury and the Zakaa CEO, Deremi Ajidahun, as the first African brand ambassador, Zilli, a French male apparel brand sets its sight on Africa.

Alain Schimel, Zilli CEO, is set to position Zilli in the highly coveted African luxury market by partnering with Zakaa luxury and launching its brand boutique in Abuja, Nigeria. Popular for a range of sheer luxurious and opulent male apparels and accessories, Zilli’s presence in Nigeria affords the African luxury market easy access to their finely tailored pieces.

SONIA EHIZEWELE

VISIONNAIRE LAUNCH

Partnership with Nettetal Nigeria

Abiodun Feuser-Ajidahun, Nettetal CEO and Leopold Cavalli, Visionnaire CEO are set to create history in a phenomenal partnership between both brands. The partnership will see the first ever African Visionnaire embassy open in the heart of Abuja, Nigeria, the embassy hosts a wide array of creative and aesthetically pleasing furniture that is synonymous with Visionnaire.

As a well known luxury retailer in Africa, Nettetal’s partnership with Visionnaire is well set to extend the brand’s reach in the African luxury sector.

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SONIA EHIZEWELE

ARTURO FUENTES

Ever wondered how good a Dominican cigar can be? Carlos Fuente Jr, CEO Arturo Fuente, proves that they can be absolutely good with its luxury range of premium cigars. The rich and pleasant aromatic cigars are available in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and flavors, Arturo Fuente creates a different experience with every variant.

Largely popular because of their outstanding quality, these luxury Dominican cigars are available through CWWX (Cigar, Whisky & Wine Xchange) in Abuja and through its online portal for home deliveries..