DQ Magazine Issue 11A

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SOUTH AFRICA’S PREMIER DOG MAGAZINE

Welcome to DQ Magazine!

We’re thrilled to have you join us for this month’s exciting edition, where we celebrate all things dog-related and aim to bring you insightful, fun, and practical content for you and your furry friends.

In this issue, we spotlight the Chow Chow, an ancient breed known for its striking blue-black tongue and independent spirit. Discover the history and temperament of this loyal guardian, and understand what goes into raising and caring for this unique breed.

For those interested in working dogs, we delve into herding breeds and what makes them suitable for their role in this working discipline. Whether you're a seasoned trainer or just starting out, our guide to herding will introduce you to the benefits of herding, along with how to go about harnessing a dog’s natural instincts for the job.

On the health front, we tackle a crucial topic: lameness in dogs. Learn how to identify the location of mobility issues through observation and palpation. We also explore how to assess whether your dog’s diet is truly meeting their nutritional needs, along with practical tips on how to evaluate your pup’s muscle-to-fat ratio at home to keep them in top shape.

Packed with in-depth articles, this month’s edition has something for everyone. We hope you enjoy reading it as much as we enjoyed putting it together!

Lizzie and the DQ team xxx

DIGITAL ISSUE 11A | 2024

The Chow Chow

A majestic and independent breed

Lameness in dogs

A guide for dog owners

Feeding them right

Signs that your dog’s diet is a good fit

In proportion

How to check the muscle-to-fat ratio in dogs

Tackling matts

A quick guide to removing matts from your dog’s coat

Herding training

Unlocking instincts and discipline

Dog breeds for herding

Ask DQ Your questions answered Products we love

The Chow Chow

A MAJESTIC AND INDEPENDENT BREED

The Chow Chow is one of the most ancient and distinctive dog breeds, with a history that dates back over 2,000 years. Known particularly for its lion-like appearance, reserved character and blue-black tongue, the Chow Chow is a breed that has captivated the imagination of dog lovers around the world.

HISTORY OF THE BREED

The Chow Chow originated in China, where the dogs were used for a variety of purposes, including hunting, herding, pulling carts, and guarding property. In ancient China, they were even prized for their meat and fur, though this practice has thankfully long since ceased. The breed's early depictions can be found in Chinese pottery and art dating back to the Han Dynasty (around 206 B.C.), showcasing the Chow's long-standing place in

Chinese culture. The name ‘Chow Chow’ was likely coined by British traders in the 18th century, referring to the miscellaneous goods they imported from China, which included this remarkable breed.

While the breed's origins are tied to China, some historians believe that the Chow Chow’s ancestors may have been brought to China by nomadic tribes from Mongolia or Siberia, adding to the breed's mystique and ancient pedigree.

DID YOU KNOW?

One origin theory is that the Chow Chow is a cross between the Samoyed of Siberia and the Mastiff of Tibet. However, experts in the breed believe that the Chow’s blue-black tongue contradicts this theory, showing that they might in fact be one of the original dog breeds.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS

One of the first things people notice about the Chow Chow is his unique appearance. The breed is compact and squarely built, with a powerful body and a distinctive, heavy double coat that forms a thick ruff around the neck, giving them a lion-like look. Chow Chows come in two coat types: rough and smooth. The rough-coated variety has longer, more profuse fur, while the smooth coat is shorter and sleeker, though both require regular grooming.

The Chow’s eyes are deep-set and almond-shaped, contributing to his dignified expression. His straight hind legs give him a stilted gait, which, combined with his proud, upright posture, creates an impression of grandeur.

Perhaps the most famous feature of the Chow Chow is his blue-black tongue, a trait shared by only a few other breeds, like the Shar Pei. According to Chinese folklore, the Chow Chow’s tongue is blue because he licked up pieces of the sky during creation.

DID YOU KNOW?

Chow Chows are born with pink tongues, and the tongue turns blueblack as they age.

TEMPERAMENT AND PERSONALITY

Chow Chows have a personality often compared to that of a cat. They are independent and reserved and not typically the type of dog to seek constant attention or affection. However, they are incredibly loyal to their families and can be highly protective of their homes and loved ones. Their aloofness toward strangers and other animals makes them excellent watchdogs, though it can also result in territorial behaviour if they are not properly trained and socialised from an early age.

While they are often standoffish, Chow Chows are not aggressive by nature. They prefer to observe their surroundings calmly and react only when necessary. They tend to form strong bonds with one or two family members, often showing a deep affection for their chosen people. Despite their independent nature, they thrive in a stable environment where they can rely on a routine, and consistent companionship.

TRAINING

Training a Chow Chow can be challenging due to their independent streak. Although they are intelligent dogs, they are not eager to please in the way that many other breeds are. Instead, they often need to see the point of a command before they respond to it. Positive reinforcement methods are essential to give the dogs the purpose they seek in training.

SOCIALISATION

Early socialisation is crucial for a Chow Chow, particularly due to their wariness of strangers and other animals. Without proper socialisation, they can become overly protective and potentially aggressive. Introducing them to a variety of people, animals, and environments at a young age helps ensure they grow into well-adjusted adult dogs.

EXERCISE AND ACTIVITY LEVELS

Despite their sturdy, robust appearance, Chow Chows are relatively low-energy dogs. They don’t have the same high exercise requirements as breeds like Border Collies or Labrador Retrievers. A couple of moderate walks a day will usually suffice for keeping them healthy and mentally stimulated. Due to their thick coat, Chow Chows are highly sensitive to heat, so care should be taken when exercising them in warm weather.

While they may enjoy playtime or a bit of outdoor exploration, Chow Chows are not typically high-energy or hyperactive, making it possible for them to live in home without large gardens, as long as they receive their daily walks and plenty of mental stimulation.

GROOMING AND CARE

While stunning, a Chow Chow's thick coat requires considerable grooming. Rough-coated Chows need to be brushed multiple times a week to prevent mats and tangles, particularly during shedding seasons. Smooth-coated varieties require less intensive grooming but still benefit from regular brushing to keep their coat healthy.

In addition to coat care, Chows require routine nail trimming, dental care, and ear cleaning.

FAST FACTS

Martha Stewart has owned several Chows and she often featured them in her TV shows and on her website. She even had a champion Chow called Genghis Khan, who competed at the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show.

HEALTH CONCERNS

While generally a hardy breed, Chow Chows are prone to several specific health issues. Their unique body structure and deep-set eyes mean they are prone to certain health issues, such as entropion (a condition where the eyelids roll inward) or hip dysplasia. They can also suffer from hypothyroidism, elbow dysplasia, and allergies. Their thick coats can also make them

susceptible to hot spots and skin infections if not properly groomed.

Because Chows are susceptible to joint issues, maintaining a healthy weight is essential. Their diet should be carefully monitored, and regular, low-impact exercise will help keep them fit without straining their joints.

The life expectancy for a Chow is eight to twelve years.

combined with their grooming and socialisation needs, requires an

owner who is patient, experienced, and dedicated. However, for those who appreciate the breed’s quiet dignity, independence, and fierce loyalty, the Chow Chow can be an incredible companion.

FINAL THOUGHTS

The Chow Chow is a special dog who requires a special type of owner. If you enjoy a dog with a calm, regal presence, strong protective instincts, and a unique sense of independence, this ancient breed could be a perfect fit for your home!

The process of determining which leg your dog is lame on can seem a little daunting (those legs move so fast!), but with careful observation, you can usually pinpoint the problem and look out for that leg while you await appropriate veterinary care.

In this article, we'll cover some key steps and tips to help you identify the affected limb.

STEP 1: OBSERVE YOUR DOG’S OVERALL MOVEMENT

The first step in identifying lameness is to observe how your dog is moving, remembering that a dog will typically try to avoid placing full weight on an injured or painful leg.

Here’s what to look for:

• Uneven gait: Watch your dog as he walks, trots, and runs. You may notice an uneven or hobbling gait as he attempts to avoid putting weight on the sore leg.

• Abnormal posture: Watch how your dog stands or lies. If he

appears to be protecting a limb or area this can give you a good idea where the issue is originating.

• Head movement: Dogs will often shift their head in response to pain. For example, with a front leg issue, a dog will raise his head when the sore leg touches the ground in walk and lower it when the healthy leg takes the weight.

• Hip movement: In hind leg lameness, you may notice an exaggerated sway or ‘bobbing’ of the hips as your dog moves. The hips may shift or rise as they attempt to reduce pressure on the painful leg.

SIGNS OF AN EMERGENCY

Sudden lameness after trauma or accompanied by symptoms like swelling, visible injury, severe pain, or lethargy should prompt an immediate visit to the vet, as conditions like fractures, ligament tears, or infections may require urgent treatment.

STEP 2: CHECK FOR SIGNS OF PAIN OR SWELLING

Once you’ve observed your dog’s gait, the next step is to examine him more closely. Be gentle, as handling the sore area could cause discomfort.

Start by inspecting each leg for signs of:

• Swelling: Compare each limb for any swelling or inflammation. This

is often more noticeable in cases of joint, ligament, or muscle injury.

• Tenderness: Lightly press or move your dog’s joints, muscles, and paws to check for signs of tenderness. If a particular area is painful, your dog may pull away or whimper.

• Heat: Injuries or infections often cause warmth in the affected area. Feel each leg to detect any noticeable temperature differences.

STEP 3: IS IT THE FRONT OR BACK LEG?

If after observation and palpation you are still not sure which leg is involved, simply focus on whether the lameness is in the front or back legs.

Here's how to distinguish between the two:

• Front leg lameness: When the issue is in a front leg, the dog will usually lift their head when the lame leg touches the ground. You may also notice a reluctance to lower their body during certain activities, such as bending down to eat or play.

• Hind leg lameness: Dogs with a hind leg issue often raise their hips or shift their weight forward, placing more pressure on their front legs. They may also show signs of stiffness after lying down or difficulty jumping or climbing stairs.

NOTE Thorns in the paw pads or broken nails can cause lameness that will recover quickly. If you notice these issues, remove any obvious debris and monitor your dog. If the lameness does not resolve rapidly, see your vet.

COMMON CAUSES OF LIMPING IN DOGS

• Sprain or strain

• Cut or object in paw

• Torn nail

• Bite from an insect or other animal

• Arthritis

• Dislocation

• Fracture

• Hip or elbow dysplasia

• Cruciate ligament disease

• Infection

• Congenital malformation

• Neurological disorder

STEP 4: TAKE NOTES

Pay attention to how long your dog has been lame and whether the condition changes throughout the day. Some dogs may limp more after rest, while others might worsen

after activity. Note any differences between lameness during walks versus resting time and whether the limp improves with gentle movement. This extra information can help your vet to identify the issue.

THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX

Not all limping is caused by leg or paw injuries. Some dogs may appear lame due to pain in other parts of the body, such as the back, neck, or hips. If your dog’s movement seems stiff or off-balance, but you can’t pinpoint the exact leg, it could indicate an issue with their spine or a systemic problem, like arthritis or a neurological disorder. You vet will be able to help with the diagnosis.

Choosing the right food for your dog is essential for their health and well-being. With so many options on the market, how can you tell if the food you’re giving your dog is truly the best fit? Here are key signs to help you determine if your dog’s diet is on track and what to look out for if it’s not.

SIGNS OF A HEALTHY DIET

1. Shiny coat and healthy skin: One of the first indicators of good nutrition is your dog’s coat. A shiny, soft coat and clear skin often signal that their food is providing the right balance of nutrients, including healthy fats and oils.

2. Steady energy levels: Is your dog energetic and playful or sluggish and tired? A healthy dog with a well-balanced diet will have steady energy throughout the day without extreme highs and lows.

3. Good weight maintenance: Keeping your dog at a healthy weight is crucial. If they’re maintaining a proper weight without frequent fluctuations, it’s a good sign that their food is right for them. Be sure to check for an appropriate muscleto-fat ratio as well (see our article in this edition on how to assess this).

4. Small, firm stools: Your dog’s digestion can reveal a lot about their diet. Healthy dogs should have small, firm stools that are easy to pass. If their stool is consistently loose or has a foul odour, it could indicate that the food isn’t agreeing with them.

5. Healthy appetite: Dogs eating the right food should have a steady appetite without being overly hungry or disinterested in meals. If your dog refuses to eat or seems ravenous all the time, it might be worth reassessing their diet.

RED FLAGS TO WATCH OUT FOR

1. Dull coat and itchy skin: If your dog’s coat becomes dull or their skin seems dry and itchy, they may not be getting enough essential fatty acids or other key nutrients.

2. Digestive issues: Frequent vomiting, diarrhoea, or gas can signal food intolerances or sensitivities, as well as other health issues. It’s important to monitor for these symptoms and consider switching to a different food, and/or consulting your vet.

3. Unexplained weight gain or loss: Sudden changes in your dog’s weight could indicate that their food isn’t providing the right balance of calories and nutrients. Consult your vet if you notice any significant changes.

4. Lethargy or hyperactivity: If your dog seems lethargic or unusually hyper, their food might be lacking in, or overloaded with, certain nutrients. These imbalances can affect their behaviour and overall well-being.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT FOOD

To ensure your dog is getting the best nutrition, choose a food that is:

• Complete and balanced so as to meet your dog’s nutritional needs.

• Specific to any health needs: If your dog has allergies, sensitivities, or health conditions, you may need to choose a special diet. Consult with your vet for guidance.

• Age and size appropriate: Puppies, adults, and senior dogs all have different nutritional needs. Similarly, larger breeds may need different formulas compared to smaller ones.

COMPLETE AND BALANCED

Complete: This means the food contains all the essential nutrients your dog needs. Balanced: The nutrients are present in the correct ratios to support your dog’s overall health. Finding a complete and balanced food for your dog can be a challenge, particularly as dog food isn’t regulated in the same way as human foods. Chat to your vet for assistance in getting the right nutritional mix for your dog.

WHEN TO CONSULT YOUR VET

If you’re ever unsure about whether your dog’s food is meeting their nutritional needs, it’s always a good idea to consult with your vet. They can help assess your dog’s health and recommend a food that best suits their unique requirements.

By monitoring these signs, you can ensure that your dog’s diet is helping him live a long, happy, and healthy life.

Maintaining a healthy muscle-to-fat ratio is essential for your dog’s overall health, fitness, and longevity. While there isn't a precise formula for calculating this ratio at home, there are a few effective methods to assess whether your dog is in good condition or carrying too much fat. Here’s how to check for a healthy muscle-to-fat balance in your dog:

MUSCLE TONE

Check key areas for muscle development, particularly around the shoulders, thighs, and back. Muscular dogs will have firm, welldefined muscles in these areas, which you can feel when you pet them or watch them move.

• Good muscle tone: Well-toned muscles will feel firm and slightly raised beneath the skin. Watch for clear muscle definition in movement, especially in active or working dogs.

• Poor muscle tone: If these areas feel soft or saggy or lack definition, it may indicate that your dog is carrying excess fat or has low muscle mass.

BODY CONDITION SCORING (BCS)

Veterinarians often use a Body Condition Scoring system to assess a dog's fat and muscle ratio, usually on a scale from 1 to 9. A score of 4 to 5 is ideal, where the dog has a visible waist, ribs that are easily felt but not too prominent, and good muscle definition.

• Low score (1-3): This indicates that the dog is underweight, with too little fat and possibly muscle.

• High score (6-9): This indicates that the dog is overweight with excess fat and possibly poor muscle condition.

THE BCS SCALE:

1-3: Underweight

1. Emaciated:

• Ribs, spine, and hip bones are easily visible and protrude sharply with no palpable fat.

• The waist and abdomen show a severe abdominal tuck with a very pronounced waist.

• Muscle mass may also be significantly reduced.

2. Very Thin:

• Ribs and bones are easily seen and felt with minimal fat coverage.

• Very pronounced waist and abdominal tuck.

• Slight muscle loss.

3. Thin:

• Ribs are visible and easily felt with little fat covering.

• The waist is clearly defined when viewed from above, and there’s a noticeable abdominal tuck.

• Muscle mass is slightly reduced.

4-5: Ideal

4. Lean:

• Ribs are easily felt but not visible.

• The waist is visible when viewed from above, and the abdomen tucks up from the side.

• Muscle mass is well-developed.

5: Ideal:

• Ribs can be felt with a slight fat covering, but they aren’t visible.

• Waist is evident when viewed from above, and there’s an abdominal tuck.

• Good muscle tone and mass.

The waist is less visible from above, and there’s little to no abdominal tuck.

• Slight fat deposits around the hips and base of the tail.

7. Overweight:

• Ribs are difficult to feel due to a thick fat covering.

• When viewed from above, there is no clear waistline; the abdomen may appear rounded.

• Fat deposits are noticeable, especially at the base of the tail and along the chest.

8. Obese:

• Ribs are very difficult to feel, with a heavy fat layer.

• No visible waistline and the abdomen may appear bulging or sagging.

• Significant fat deposits are present along the back, chest, and legs.

9. Severely Obese:

• Ribs, spine, and hip bones are entirely hidden under thick layers of fat.

• There is no waistline or abdominal tuck; the abdomen is significantly distended.

• Extensive fat deposits over the entire body, particularly around the neck, back, and legs.

CONSULT A VET

While the above methods can help you get an idea of your dog’s muscle-to-fat ratio, your veterinarian can provide a more detailed assessment. They may use tools like body condition charts, palpation techniques, and even body fat analysers to give you an accurate evaluation of your dog's physical health.

6. MAINTAINING A HEALTHY RATIO

• Diet: Ensure your dog eats a balanced diet for his age that is rich in quality nutrients.,

• Exercise: Regular physical activity is crucial for building and maintaining muscle mass. Walks, runs, and playtime all contribute to your dog’s muscle tone while helping prevent excess fat accumulation.

Regularly checking your dog’s muscle-to-fat ratio ensures they stay in good shape, giving them the best chance of a long, healthy life!

TACKLING MATTS

A QUICK GUIDE TO REMOVING MATTS FROM YOUR DOG’S COAT

Matts in your dog’s coat are not just unsightly; they can also cause discomfort or even lead to skin issues. Whether your dog has long or curly hair, matts can form from friction, dirt, or moisture.

Here's how to manage and prevent them:

TOOLS

• A slicker brush or wide-tooth comb: These are essential for working through tangles gently.

• Detangling spray: This helps ease the brushing process by softening the matts and making them easier to work through.

• Blunt-ended scissors: In severe cases, you may need to carefully cut out stubborn matts in the coat.

THE PROCESS

1. Prepare the coat: Start by spraying a detangling spray onto the matted areas. This will reduce friction and make it easier to work through. Give this a few moments to work before moving onto the next step.

2. Work gently: Using a slicker brush or wide-tooth comb, gently work through the mat from the outside, moving inward. Avoid pulling too hard, as this can hurt your dog.

3. Cut only if necessary: If the mat is too severe to brush out, use blunt-ended scissors to carefully cut it out, but be mindful not to nick the skin.

4. Regular brushing: The best way to avoid matts is through regular grooming. Brush your dog’s coat daily if they’re prone to tangles, especially around the ears, armpits, and belly.

PREVENTION IS KEY

Routine care makes keeping your dog’s coat mat-free easier. Regular baths, combined with conditioning, can also prevent matting. If the mats become too overwhelming, it’s best to consult a professional groomer to avoid causing your pet any discomfort or injury.

TOP TIP

Give lots of praise and treats as a reward for your dog sitting still and allowing you to brush them and tackle the matts in their coat. This will make grooming easier in the long run as your dog will associate grooming with positive experiences. Just make sure to only reward when your dog is sitting still and allowing you to groom them (not when they are on a mission to escape the grooming brush); your dog will repeat the behaviour you reward.

FINAL THOUGHTS

By staying on top of grooming, your dog's coat will remain smooth, healthy, and matt-free!

Herding training

UNLOCKING INSTINCTS AND DISCIPLINE

Herding training is a specialised form of dog training that channels a dog’s natural instincts to work with livestock, including sheep, cattle, and even ducks. While historically, herding breeds such as Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, and German Shepherds were bred specifically for this task, many other breeds with strong work drives can benefit from herding training, which enhances not only their physical activity but also their mental stimulation.

In this article, we will explore the key elements of herding training, the

benefits for both dogs and handlers and the steps to introduce your dog to this rewarding practice.

THE INSTINCTUAL ELEMENT

Herding dogs possess an innate ability to gather, control, and move livestock. This behaviour comes from centuries of selective breeding aimed at creating dogs that are not only intelligent but also capable of managing animals that are larger and sometimes unpredictable. However, without proper guidance and training, even the most instinctual dog may struggle to control livestock in a safe and effective way.

WHY HERDING?

Even if you don’t have livestock, herding training offers numerous benefits:

• Mental and physical stimulation: Herding taps into a dog's mental agility and problem-solving skills, providing a full-body workout.

• Instinct fulfilment: For herding breeds, training satisfies their natural drive, reducing boredom and behavioural issues.

• Teamwork and bonding: Training fosters a deep connection between handler and dog as they learn to communicate and work together toward a common goal.

• Competitive opportunities: Many handlers and dogs participate in herding trials and competitions, showcasing their skills in organised settings.

STEPS TO BEGINNING HERDING TRAINING

1. Assess the instinct

Not every dog will take to herding immediately, so it’s important to assess your dog’s instincts before diving into training. Many herding dogs show interest in controlling the movement of other animals or even objects like toys or people. Watch how your dog reacts around livestock, or take them to a professional trainer who specialises in herding instinct tests to see how they respond.

2. Basic obedience

Before introducing your dog to livestock, ensure they have a solid foundation of obedience training. Commands such as ‘sit,’ ‘stay,’ ‘come,’ and ‘heel’ are critical to maintaining control in a herding situation. Without these, your dog may become overstimulated or even attempt to chase livestock inappropriately, which could be dangerous.

3. Introducing livestock

Once your dog has a strong obedience foundation, it’s time to introduce them to livestock. Begin in a controlled, enclosed area with small, calm animals, such as sheep or ducks. Use a long line or lead to ensure you can guide your dog and redirect them if needed.

Allow your dog to observe the animals from a distance, and watch for signs of interest or instinctual behaviour such as eye-stalking, circling, or crouching. A professional herding instructor can guide this first interaction to prevent any overexcitement or confusion.

4. Training commands

Once your dog shows interest

and appropriate behaviour around livestock, you can start working on basic herding commands. Some common herding commands include:

• ‘Come-bye’: Move clockwise around the livestock.

• ‘Away to me’: Move counterclockwise around the livestock.

• ‘Walk up’: Approach the livestock.

• ‘Lie down’ or ‘Stand’: Stop and hold the position.

These commands are essential for directing your dog and controlling the movement of the livestock. Patience is key when teaching these commands, as it may take time for your dog to fully understand their role in the process.

5. Improving focus and precision

As your dog becomes more comfortable with livestock and herding commands, focus on improving their control, focus, and precision. Teach them to respond to commands from a distance and to maintain control even in more dynamic or stressful situations.

This might include working with different types of livestock or in new environments.

Herding dogs must learn to move animals calmly and efficiently without causing stress or chaos, which is why building up to more advanced tasks gradually is essential.

COMPETITIVE HERDING

6. Consistency

Herding training requires consistent practice and a calm, positive approach. Your dog will need regular exposure to livestock and practice following commands. Keep sessions short and engaging to maintain your dog’s enthusiasm, and always end on a positive note to encourage their progress.

For those interested in competitive herding, herding trials are organised events that test a dog's ability to manage livestock in a variety of tasks. Dogs are judged on their ability to control the herd, follow commands, and maintain the safety and well-being of the animals. Competing in herding trials can be a rewarding experience for both dogs and handlers, showcasing the skills and teamwork they’ve developed.

PROFESSIONAL TRAINERS

While some dog owners are able to teach basic herding commands, working with a professional herding trainer is highly recommended, especially for beginners. A trainer can ensure the safety of both the dog and livestock and offer expert guidance to help your dog unlock its full herding potential.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Herding training is an immensely fulfilling way for dogs to engage their natural instincts and develop mental sharpness, physical prowess, and teamwork skills. Whether you’re working on a farm, competing in herding trials, or simply offering your dog a fun new challenge, herding training is a valuable way to deepen the bond between you and your canine partner!

Dog breeds for herding

The best dog breeds for herding are those that have been specifically bred for generations to work with livestock. These dogs tend to be highly intelligent, energetic, and naturally possess a strong drive to control the movement of animals. Here are some of the top herding breeds known for their exceptional skills and instincts:

1. BORDER COLLIE

Key traits: Intelligence, speed, agility

Description: Border Collies are often regarded as the most skilled herding dogs in the world. Known for their sharp intelligence and intense work ethic, they have an instinctive ability to control livestock with their ‘eye’ (a focused, commanding stare). Border Collies excel in herding trials and are quick learners when it comes to both basic and advanced commands.

2. AUSTRALIAN SHEPHERD

Key traits: High energy, versatility, intelligence

Description: Despite their name, Australian Shepherds were developed in the United States. These dogs are highly versatile and excel not only in herding livestock but also in agility, obedience, and other dog sports. With their boundless energy and strong work ethic, Australian Shepherds are popular choices for active owners and farmers alike.

3. AUSTRALIAN CATTLE DOG

Key traits: Stamina, toughness, loyalty

Description: Also known as Blue Heelers or Queensland Heelers, Australian Cattle Dogs are bred to handle rough terrain and large herds. They are known for their stamina, toughness, and ability to nip at the heels of cattle to keep them in line. Their loyalty and protective instincts make them excellent working partners for long days on the ranch.

4. SHETLAND SHEEPDOG

Key traits: Agility, intelligence, sensitivity

Description: Often referred to as ‘Shelties,’ these small herding dogs are highly intelligent and agile. Despite their size, they are excellent at herding smaller livestock like sheep. Their agility and trainability make them successful in various dog sports, including agility and obedience competitions.

5. WELSH CORGI (PEMBROKE AND CARDIGAN)

Key traits: Agility, alertness, stamina

Description: Both the Pembroke and Cardigan Welsh Corgis were originally bred to herd cattle. Despite their short stature, Corgis are highly effective herders due to their speed, agility, and ability to nip at the heels of livestock while staying low to the ground to avoid kicks. They are sharp, active dogs that enjoy the challenge of herding.

1. BORDER COLLIE

6. BELGIAN MALINOIS

Key traits: Intelligence, speed, agility

High drive, focus, versatility

Description: While often used as police and military dogs, Belgian Malinois are also excellent herders. They possess an intense work ethic and high energy and are known for their focus and drive. Malinois excel in a variety of roles, from herding sheep to protecting property, and are highly trainable for demanding tasks.

Description: Border Collies are often regarded as the most skilled herding dogs in the world. Known for their sharp intelligence and intense work ethic, they have an instinctive ability to control livestock with their ‘eye’ (a focused, commanding stare). Border Collies excel in herding trials and are quick learners when it comes to both basic and advanced commands.

7. OLD ENGLISH SHEEPDOG

Key traits: Strength, endurance, intelligence

Description: Known for their fluffy coats, Old English Sheepdogs are powerful herders with great endurance. Historically used to drive cattle and sheep, they are strong, reliable, and gentle. They can handle tough terrain and challenging weather conditions, making them ideal for large-scale herding operations.

8. COLLIE (ROUGH AND SMOOTH)

Key traits: Loyalty, intelligence, gentleness

Description: Collies, both Rough and Smooth, are known for their loyal, gentle nature and intelligence. While they may be more commonly associated with being family dogs today, they were originally bred for herding livestock in Scotland. Their trainability, gentle herding style, and loyalty make them excellent companions on farms.

9. GERMAN SHEPHERD

Key traits: Intelligence, strength, versatility

Description: German Shepherds are widely recognised for their work in law enforcement, but they are also superb herders. Bred originally to herd sheep, they are strong, intelligent, and able to handle large herds. Their versatility makes them suitable for a variety of tasks, including herding, guarding, and service work.

and their ability to handle rough and unpredictable terrain, making them ideal for herding sheep in challenging environments.

Key traits: Agility, independence, problem-solving

Description: Known for their distinctive corded coats, Pulis are agile and alert herders with a strong independent streak. Historically used to herd sheep in Hungary, they excel at managing large flocks, often using their quick reflexes and problemsolving abilities to handle stubborn livestock.

12. BOUVIER DES FLANDRES

Key traits: Strength, courage, versatility

Description: Bouviers were originally bred to work on farms, herding cattle and pulling carts. Their large, muscular build makes them excellent at handling larger livestock. Despite their size, they are gentle and calm with their handlers and possess the courage and stamina to handle tough tasks.

DID YOU KNOW?

Chow Chows can be red, blue, black, cinnamon and cream in colour according to the breed standard.

YOUR DOG QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Can dogs eat fish?

Yes, dogs can eat fish, and it can be a healthy addition to their diet when prepared properly. Fish is a good source of protein, omega-3 fatty acids, and essential nutrients that can benefit a dog's coat, skin, and overall health. However, there are some important considerations to keep in mind.

TYPES AND SOURCES OF FISH TO AVOID:

• Raw fish: Can carry parasites that are harmful to dogs.

• Fried or smoked fish: These types often contain unhealthy fats and seasonings.

• Fish with high mercury levels: Large fish like swordfish, and king mackerel tend to have higher mercury levels and should be avoided.

The major benefits of feeding some fish in the diet include the following:

• Rich in omega-3 fatty acids: These fatty acids help promote a shiny coat, healthy skin, and can reduce inflammation, making fish beneficial for dogs with allergies or joint issues.

• High-quality protein: Fish provides lean protein, which is essential for maintaining muscle and overall body health.

• Low in saturated fat: Compared to other meats, fish is typically lower in saturated fat, which can be advantageous for dogs with certain health conditions, such as obesity.

However, the following precautions should be taken when feeding fish to avoid any health issues:

• Cook the fish: Raw fish can contain harmful bacteria and parasites. Always cook fish thoroughly to ensure safety.

• Avoid seasoning: When preparing fish for your dog, make sure it is plain and unseasoned. Ingredients like garlic, onions, and excessive salt are harmful to dogs.

SAFE TYPES OF FISH FOR DOGS

• Salmon (cooked, never raw)

• Herring

• Sardines (packed in water, not oil)

• Trout

• Whitefish

• Cod

• Tuna (in moderation due to mercury levels)

• Watch for bones: Fish bones can pose a choking hazard and may cause internal injuries. Be sure to remove all bones before feeding fish to your dog.

• Moderation: While fish can be a healthy treat, it should not be a large part of your dog’s diet. Too much fish, especially types high in mercury (like tuna), can cause health problems. Offer fish as an occasional supplement rather than a daily meal.

Overall, then, when prepared correctly, fish can be a nutritious and tasty treat for dogs.

Why do some dogs eat other dog’s poo?

Some dogs eat dog faeces, a behaviour known as coprophagia, for various reasons. Though it may seem odd or unpleasant to humans, it's fairly common in dogs and can stem from several factors. Here are some of the most common reasons:

1. Nutritional deficiencies

One of the leading theories is that dogs may eat faeces when they’re lacking essential nutrients in their diet. This could be due to poor-quality food, insufficient digestive enzyme production, or malabsorption issues, making the dog seek out undigested nutrients in faeces.

2. Instinct

Consuming faeces might have been a way for wild dog ancestors to clean up their dens and prevent parasites or predators from being attracted to waste. For domesticated dogs, this instinct may still remain, particularly in puppies or nursing mothers who clean up after their young.

3. Attention-seeking

Sometimes, dogs engage in coprophagia to get attention from their owners, even if it’s negative. If an owner reacts dramatically to the behaviour, the dog may interpret this as a way to gain attention and repeat the behaviour.

4. Boredom or anxiety

Dogs left alone for long periods of time, understimulated or anxious, might engage in coprophagia to occupy themselves or relieve stress. In these cases, the behaviour can be similar to other destructive or selfsoothing behaviours dogs may exhibit, like chewing or digging.

5. Imitation

Puppies often learn by watching other dogs. If they see an older dog eating faeces, they might mimic the behaviour out of curiosity. Some puppies outgrow this behaviour as they mature, but for others, it can persist.

6. Medical conditions

Certain medical conditions can trigger coprophagia. For instance, conditions like malabsorption syndrome, diabetes, Cushing’s disease, or thyroid problems can make a dog feel hungry all the time, causing it to seek out alternative sources of food like faeces.

7. Cleanliness

In some cases, dogs may eat poop to keep their environment clean. Dogs who spend a lot of time in confined areas, such as kennels or small yards, may try to ‘clean up’ after themselves to avoid soiling their space.

8. Taste or smell

Some dogs may find the taste or smell of faeces appealing, especially if it’s from a diet high in fats or if the faeces still contains undigested food particles. This could happen when dogs have eaten rich, fatty foods or when cat faeces (which can be more nutrient-rich) are available.

HOW TO PREVENT COPROPHAGIA:

• Dietary changes: Ensure your dog is eating high-quality, well-balanced food to meet all their nutritional needs.

• Clean environment: Pick up faeces from the yard or environment as quickly as possible to reduce temptation.

• Provide stimulation: Make sure your dog is getting plenty of mental and physical exercise to combat boredom.

• Training: Teach a good ‘leave it’ or ‘come’ command to distract your dog when they show interest in faeces.

• Vet check-up: If your dog’s coprophagia is persistent, consult a vet to rule out medical conditions or dietary deficiencies.

While coprophagia is usually harmless, it can be an understandable source of concern for pet owners. Addressing the underlying cause often helps eliminate the behaviour.

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