DQ Magazine Issue 4A

SOUTH AFRICA’S PREMIER DOG MAGAZINE

Welcome to our festive edition of DQ Magazine!

It’s been a fabulous first six months, and we’re thrilled to have you with us on this adventure. We wish you and your families (both human and fur) a splendid festive season, and look forwards to seeing you back here in 2023!

With best wishes for the New Year!

Lots of love,

Lizzie and the DQ team xxx

Dr Lizzie Harrison | Editor

Designer | Anne Royden-Turner

The views expressed in DQ are not necessarily those of Magda Media and the acceptance and publication of editorial and advertising matter in DQ does not imply any endorsement or warranty in respect of goods or services therein described, whether by DQ or the publishers. DQ will not be held responsible for the safe return of unsolicited editorial contributions. The Editor reserves the right to edit material submitted and in appropriate cases to translate into another language. DQ reserves the right to reject any advertising or editorial material, which may not suit the standard of the publication, without reason given.

TEXT: RHIANNON CECIL

This charming and vivacious herding breed originated in the British Isles, exclusively as a sheep herder. Their astonishing intellect and enthusiastic athleticism have earned them fame on the silver screen and the competitive dog circuit. They learn new skills at a remarkable pace and are often described as honest, loyal working companions.

BORDER COLLIE HISTORY

The Border Collie has a long and complex history, dating back to when the Roman Empire first invaded the British Isles. The Roman invasion had great influences on Britain's future development, and the Border Collie is just one of those.

The Romans brought livestock with them during the invasion and their own herding dogs to keep watch. These early herding dogs were large and big-boned and remained at their post for almost three centuries. It wasn't until fierce Viking raiders made their appearance that the

modern Border Collie came into existence. Just like the Romans, the Vikings brought herding dogs, but these were smaller and quicker. Over time, the two breeds combined to produce a medium-sized and energetic working dog perfect for herding in the rocky highlands of Scotland and Wales.

The Border Collie became popular amongst the wealthier English class in the 19th century. They were perfect for occupying large open spaces and used for herding as well as protection. Today, Border Collies are still arguably among the best herding breeds in the world. They are easy to train, making them great for families with older children, and are also used as guide dogs, avid participants in dog sports and even for police work.

BORDER COLLIE OVERVIEW

Border Collies are medium-sized dogs, and the males reach approximately 55 cm tall weighing in at roughly 30kg. The female Border Collies are slightly smaller in size. Border Collies have long-feathered tails with pointy ears that often have their tips dropped over. The fluffy Border Collie coat can range from 2.5cm to 8cm long. A variety of colours are

seen, including black and white, red and white, black and gray, all black, merle and tricolour. The longer-haired Border Collie usually has a lush mane and tail.

Border Collies are working dogs to the very core and need plenty of stimulation. They are highly intelligent yet wilful and playful, so they fit in perfectly with active and engaged families. They are great with older children and will often become protective with a stranger in their midst. The herding instinct in this breed is almost unparalleled, so it's not unnatural for them to herd family members, nipping the heels of their unwilling humans just like when herding sheep.

LIVING WITH A BORDER COLLIE

Border Collies are high energy and have a mind of their own. This wilful, quick-witted and sometimes overeager breed is not suited to apartment living. They're easily bored and need constant stimulation; without it, they quickly become destructive. Border Collies would be best suited for an equally energetic owner with a large garden, and they make excellent running and hiking partners too. They love to play and are extremely alert, making them a pleasure to train. With good and consistent training, they develop excellent manners, perfect for obedience, agility and flyball.

Although Border Collies are athletic and love working outside, they have a cuddly side to them as well and can often be spotted cuddling up next to their humans on the couch after a long day. This breed craves human attention and is always eager to please, but shouldn't be left alone for hours at a time, as they can become anxious and destructive.

A Border Collie's herding instinct is so pronounced he will even herd your children. With the proper training and socialisation, this breed is excellent around older children. Younger children, on the other hand, may fall prey to characteristic nipping on the legs as your Border tries to herd and discipline them. Children will need to be taught how to interact with this breed to avoid misunderstandings between the two parties.

Despite their long coats, Border Collies are easy to groom and shed seasonally. Their dual-layered coat is built to withstand long working hours in all weather conditions and is fairly low maintenance, which means fewer baths. Brush your Border Collie at least once a week to keep the coat from matting, loosen debris and keep their skin healthy. Increase your grooming to once a day during shedding season.

Border Collies are generally a healthy breed; however, they can be prone to their own set of health issues, just like any other dog breed. The most common issue with Border Collies is hip dysplasia — when the bones that form the hip joints don't fit perfectly together and cause wear and tear in the hip. It is wise to get your Border Collie from a reputable breeder or rescue centre and let your trusted veterinarian give the dog a full workup to assess the situation and provide any information on joint maintenance and other preventive measures.

IS A BORDER COLLIE THE RIGHT DOG FOR YOU?

A Border Collie might be the right dog for you if:

• You are willing to take part in socialising and extensive training, not just in puppyhood but throughout his adult life as well.

• You live an active lifestyle and desire a super-psyched partner to accompany you on adventures.

• You have a larger piece of land, and you are happy to take him on regular walks.

keeping your dog physically and mentally stimulated.

• You're looking for an alert and intelligent addition to your family who is likely to warn you of any unusual activity.

• You enjoy canine sport and have been playing with the idea of getting competitive — this is the ultimate athlete who thrives on competition and advanced training.

• You're an experienced dog owner who knows how to handle an intelligent working dog.

• You live near the ocean; Border Collies just love playing fetch on the beach.

• You desire a companion as well as a working dog and are willing to find the perfect balance between work and play.

A Border Collie might not be the right dog for you if:

• You live in an apartment or have a small garden.

• You have small children or toddlers.

• You spend a lot of time away from home and would prefer a dog who can be left to his own devices.

• You don't have the time or inclination for regular training, both at home and at a reputable training facility.

• You have never owned a dog before — Border Collies are not recommended for first-time dog owners. Their complex personalities are better suited to experienced dog handlers.

FINAL THOUGHTS

There is nothing quite like the spark in a Border Collie's eye. It speaks to a cheekiness, wit and understanding that's hard to find in other breeds. They make the most loving and enthusiastic partners in life, especially those who love the outdoors and are willing to spend hours keeping them entertained.

In return, they'll entertain you. Their sharp minds and

cheeky sense of humour can have you rolling on the floor with laughter. Experienced dog owners often swear by this comical, dynamic little powerhouse. Your heart will melt when they cock their heads and give you a knowing look, taking you in with those shining, keen eyes.

While they are protective, entertaining companions with almost human-like intelligence, they are not house pets. A Border Collie isn't truly happy unless he's working. Give him work to do and keep that active mind busy, and you'll know exactly why this is one of the most beloved breeds in the world. Creating a partnership with a Border Collie is an experience in itself, and once you have one, your life will never be quite the same.

Meet Candice and Princess Shtoonkie

DQ: What is your dog's name? My name is Princess Shtoonkie.

DQ: How old is your dog, and how long have you had her? I have been my mom's best friend for four years, and I'm four years old.

DQ: Does your dog have brothers and sisters?

I have a family of brothers and sisters and a baby.

My oldest sister is Abbey, and she's a pug cross. She is 17 years old, and kind of does her own thing; she's not into doing anything that requires energy.

My oldest brother is Peanut; he’s a Maltese x Scottie. He is also around 17 years old, but he doesn't act it at all; he loves playing ball and is full of energy.

My best friend and sister is my pitbull, Lola-Bear; we play non-stop and do everything together.

I also have a baby; it's my kitten (3-year-old cat) Ash :) I bathe her every night (when she allows me to).

DQ: What is your dog's favourite treat?

My favourite treat - hmmmmmm - anything, to be honest (hehe), but I think my all-time favourite is sitting by the pool with Grampa (my mom's dad) and sharing a huge chunk of biltong with him.

DQ: Does your dog have any hobbies or activities she takes part in?

My hobbies include loads of adventures to the stables and shows with mom, play dates with other dogs and learning new tricks using the clicker. I would also love to finish my certificate as a therapy dog for kids; I started the course, but then lockdown stopped it.

DQ: What makes your dog unique?

I am unique in all ways. I am probably the fittest and most energetic pug you will ever meet. I can have the best conversation with you. I talk back and listen well and will remember where you hide the cookie jar. I also have the funniest words that I react to, like 'hungry', 'adventure', 'sweeties' and 'bye'. To see more, you can watch my videos on my Instagram pagePrincessShtoonkie.

DQ: Why should your dog be DQ famous? Well, who couldn't or wouldn't love a pug? Anyone who meets me falls in love with me

Anyway, this is me.

Meet Sam Foley and Jean-Paul

DQ: What is your dog's name?

Sam: This is Jean-Paul. He is a Pekingese.

DQ: How old is your dog, and how long have you had her?

Sam: He is 11 years old, and I have had him since he was about eight weeks old!

DQ: Does your dog have brothers and sisters?

Sam: Jean-Paul is lucky to live with his biological Pekingese brother, Louis, as well as his non-biological Maltese brother, Sparkles!

DQ: What is your dog's favourite treat?

Sam: Jean-Paul loves his Bobtail biscuits, but he also enjoys the heart-shaped treats we get from Midfeeds. He is a really fussy eater, but chicken is always a winner.

DQ Does your dog have any hobbies or activities she takes part in?

Sam: Jean-Paul is not very sociable, but he loves to play ball, especially with his favourite ball that has orange fur on it! He is super eager to run after it.

DQ: What makes your dog unique?

Sam: Jean-Paul is unique as he is not just a regular Pekingese dog. He is a sleeve Pekingese, meaning he is smaller (not miniature). Back in the day, Chinese emperors

put their Pekingese dogs in their sleeves and walked around with them there; they were believed to be very spiritual dogs and the smaller ones fitted nicely in their sleeves.

DQ: Why should your dog be DQ famous?

Sam: Jean-Paul should be famous because he has already done a few modelling gigs; he has modelled for Bryanston Shopping Centre, and he is very good-looking! He has a great character and although he has a small body, he has a huge heart!

for Benj

TEXT: SARAH WANLESS

FESTIVE

travels

PLANNING FOR LONG DISTANCE TRIPS

With the festive season break just around the corner, many of us are packing up and heading off on holiday. For some lucky pooches, that means a trip to an exciting new destination, be it the beach or the mountains. Yet, even with a stellar destination waiting, travel with your dog can be stressful; to help you out, we have compiled our top tips for ensuring you and your dog have a safe and stress-free road trip.

1. EXERCISE FIRST

The well-known adage that ‘a well-exercised dog is a tired dog’ often holds true, and in situations like this, a tired dog is an ideal travelling companion. We recommend taking your dog for a run or a nice long walk before embarking on your trip so that your dog is likely to sleep for a decent part of the journey.

2. SAFETY FIRST

Whether it be in a crate or strapped in with a canine safety belt, it is essential to confine your pet to a comfortable part of the car. This step is necessary to ensure both your and your pet’s safety on your journey. While many people dislike the idea of restraining their dog, it is the safest way for you and your dog to travel.

Finding the type of restraint that works best for you and your dog is important. There are a wide range of options available, and what option you select will largely depend on the type of car you drive, the type of dog you have and what works best for both of you. It is best to consult your vet or trainer to determine the most suitable option.

If you opt for crating your dog and they have never been crated before, it is very important to practice and habituate your dog to crate training in advance in order for it to be a pleasant experience for you both. The crate should feel like a safe space that your dog willingly wants to be in rather than a space in which he is trapped.

3. MAKE CAR RIDES A REGULAR OCCURRENCE

Start small. This step involves pre-planning on your part. Getting your dogs used to car rides is a great way to ensure that they are habituated to travelling, meaning they will be better able to handle long-distance trips. By taking your dog on short trips to enjoyable places, such as the park, you will help your dog to start to form positive associations with car trips.

4. PITSTOPS

Be sure to regularly stop at appropriate spots to allow your dog to stretch their legs, have a drink and a snack and relieve themselves. It is crucial to travel with water with you at all times and keep their leash handy to let them have a little walk and sniff. If possible, try and keep to regular meal times to maintain some routine while travelling.

5. CREATE A COMFORTABLE SPACE FOR YOUR PET

Whether it be the back seat, the boot of an SUV or a crate, be sure your pet has a comfortable space to settle down in the back of the car, as this is where they will be for a while. Filling the space with familiar items like their blankets is also a good idea. Having a cosy space like this with familiar smells allows your pet to relax during the car ride. Be sure to keep this space free of any choking or strangling hazards.

6. KEEP IT BREEZY

While it can be tempting to let your dog stick their head out the window, it presents several major safety risks for your pet. Be sure to keep the fan or air-conditioning on if it’s very hot to keep circulating fresh air through the car. If there is no alternative and it is hot in your car, you can open the windows a tiny bit to let the air circulate and keep your dog cool, but ideally windows should be closed when you are moving.

7. KEEP THEM ENTERTAINED

While we need to be cognisant of choking hazards while driving, it is possible to stock up on some long-lasting treats or frozen enrichment toys (such as stuffed Kongs) to help entertain your dog during the long drive.

8. ENSURE YOUR WINDOWS AND DOORS ARE LOCKED

Last but not least, ensure your windows and doors are locked. Accidents do happen, and it is better to be safe than sorry!

FINAL THOUGHTS

This list is by no means extensive, and it is always best to do your own research before a long trip. You can also Google the route you plan to take to incorporate appropriate pitstop points and see if you can find any petfriendly cafes or restaurants along the way. Happy travels!

TEXT: RHIANNON CECIL

NEW YEAR CHALLENGE

GO RUNNING WITH YOUR DOG

Have you always wanted a four-legged running companion? Perhaps you've considered it but didn't know how to put all the pieces together, or maybe you tried it with disastrous, frustrating results. Whether you're a seasoned runner or giving it a try for the first time in 2023, you can teach your dog to run alongside you. It doesn't matter what breed your dog is, how old he is or if you've had him from a puppy or not; all dogs can learn new tricks.

Running is one of a dog's favourite activities, and done correctly, without pulling, fighting, or lack of focus, it can be valuable for dog and owner alike. Below are some tips and tricks to teach your dog to come along on your daily runs.

HAVE THE RIGHT GEAR

Everything is easier with a little preparation, and running with your dog is no different. To make the most out of your run together, consider these basic items to bring along:

• Hands-free leash: If you're a serious runner, you'll want to have that form down. In fact, you'll want to work on it even if you're a beginner. A hands-free expandable leash ties around your waist to keep your hands free while running. If you don't have one and aren't ready to go and buy one, you can always loop an expandable leash through another leash tied around your waist.

• Running pouch: This is an important item, regardless of if you have a dog with you or not, just to store all your essentials in one accessible place.

• Cell phone: In case there's an emergency, you get lost or just want to listen to some motivational tunes.

• Poop bags: Always clean up after your dog if he needs to make a pit stop in a public place, and yes, this includes sidewalks and trails.

• A water pouch and treats: It might make sense to take water for yourself as well, but ensure you have a water pouch for your dog at all times, as well as treats for training.

TEACH YOUR DOG TO RUN WITH YOU

You won't just be able to slap a leash on your dog, pack some treats and be off on your first 5k. Before you take your dog on your first run, he — and you, for that matter — will need to learn a few basic rules and commands, so he'll need some obedience training. Running with your dog is so much fun once you get the hang of it, so follow our simple, step-bystep guide, and you'll be ready to hit the road in no time.

• Start with basic obedience and walk training. It is important that your dog will stay by your left side so you have your right hand free. He must be attentive and focused, not wanting to dart around and drag you all over the place. It's particularly important if you have a large breed dog, as a lack of control on your part could lead to accidents.

• Before you start your run, ask your dog to sit and focus on you.

• Once you start running, your dog will want to race ahead with great enthusiasm. Make sure you rein him in and get him to stay by your side. It is important to let him know that he is running with you and not the other way around.

• Once the initial excitement has worn off, you can lengthen the leash and allow him to run in front of you, as long as there's an element of control. There is nothing

worse than being yanked from side to side while trying to command. He must sit, focused on you until it's safe to continue. Give him a treat and make a big fuss of him when he does, so he knows he's doing the right thing.

• Once you have got the hang of running on a leash and everything is going well, you can begin to teach your dog how to run off lead, as long as the bylaws in your area allow for it. It is imperative that he's obedient and has a solid recall. You don't want your dog running off into dangerous situations where you have little to no control over the outcome.

• Teaching your dog to run off lead is a bit more challenging, but in the right environment, it will be rewarding for you both. Start by taking your dog to a secluded area you're both familiar with, where there's little distraction. As we know, dogs have minds of their own, and he won't always want to stay by your side. Sometimes the mystery of what's 'over there' or the thrill of chasing birds is just too tempting, which is why it's vital to have your dog's recall up to scratch before moving onto this phase of training.

DOGS AT PLAY

BUILD YOUR DOG UP FOR DISTANCE

When you're training, you'll both need to start with relatively short distances, but once you have the basics in place and are comfortable with running on and off lead, you might want to gradually increase your distance.

• In the initial stages of your running training, especially off lead, your dog will want to sprint ahead, smell something, come back and check in with you, and then dart off again. This is completely normal dog behaviour, but it is important to realise that he's probably covering two to three times the distance you are in the process. Start off with a smaller distance of 2km or less and monitor your dog's energy levels. If he's handling the exercise, you can start to increase your distance.

• Always monitor your dog for signs of fatigue and dehydration, as you need to keep your four-legged running partner happy and in the best possible condition. If you tire him out too much, he might call it quits altogether and then you might have to carry him home, which is not fun at all!

• Watch the weather, especially once you've graduated to longer distances. Keep your eye on temperature changes

and ensure you carry enough water for the extra distance.

• Remember, if you're hot, your dog is hotter. Once you're done pounding the pavements, get both of you to a cool, quiet place where you can keep hydrating.

GET THE MOST OUT OF RUNNING WITH YOUR DOG

Running together has to be fun for both of you. Take a look at these bonus tips and tricks to make your dog appreciate the experience just as much as you:

• Don't neglect the basic obedience and walk training, or you'll end up getting pulled all over the place.

• Don't be tempted into "leash pulling." Your dog needs to be focused on you, where you're going, and how fast. If you have to yank on the leash every few minutes, your dog is more focused on what is around him and less focused on you.

• Do plan your run. Think about exactly where you're going to go and how long your run is going to be. Consider safety,

If your dog is handling the amount of exercise, you can start to increase your distance.

too, as running with a dog doesn't make you invincible. Know the leash laws for the route you're on and whether there are animals — such as horses — on your route.

• Do monitor your dog constantly, especially on hot summer days. Dogs only sweat through the pads on their paws, and they regulate their body temperature by panting. If he looks like he is struggling, stop, have a breather in the shade and give him some water. Once he's recovered, head home at a slow and steady pace. Take several water stops on the way home and make sure his hydration levels don't drop too low.

• Do consider the terrain and surroundings. If you're running on the road, do so either very early in the morning or late in the afternoon, or the heat in the asphalt will burn his paws. Check his paws for sores, cuts and other wear and tear. If your dog is excitable or clumsy, ensure that he stays away from rugged terrain, steep drops, and long rolling hills.

• Do give your dog your full attention. Your music shouldn't be so loud you aren't aware of your surroundings, and staring at your phone the whole run is a hard no! Keep your phone in your pouch and purchase headphones that allow you to hear what's going on around you.

Most of all, have fun with your new running partner. An obedient and enthusiastic dog will keep you fit, give you company and make the whole fitness thing that much more enjoyable.

10 NEW YEAR'S RESOLUTIONS

New Year, new you, right? As 2022 draws to a close, we all start thinking about ways to make the New Year bigger, brighter and better. Many of us take to pen and paper and jot down some resolutions. If you have a four-legged friend in your midst, you might want to consider including them in your goals for 2023; after all, why shouldn't they get the benefits of a fresh start too?

Let's have a look at some New Year's resolutions you can share with your canine friend, so you can make kicking off another year a whole family affair.

1. CHANGE YOUR EATING HABITS

Who doesn't go on a diet every January? Well, us. We're all about making small changes, not surviving on lettuce and ill feelings. Whatever your goals are — less carbs, less wine, more salad, it doesn't matter. You can include your dog when you make your dietary changes.

It's so easy to fall into the habit of sneaking your dog a quick snack off your plate. The truth is, it isn't actually in his best interest. Dogs' digestive systems are totally different to ours; they're lactose intolerant, for example. So, try and keep your dog on a more appropriate diet this year — no more cheesy chicken nuggets!

If your dog is overweight, it can cause serious health complications. Start your year by taking him to your vet and getting a specialised diet to help him shed those extra kilograms.

2. DONATE BLOOD

Yes, you can both do it. What better way to start the year than potentially saving a life? You can donate blood in various places, but for dogs, the criteria are a little more specific. Your dog can donate blood if:

• He weighs 25kgs or more.

• He hasn't had a blood transfusion before.

• He is between one and six years old.

• He is fully vaccinated, dewormed and has no chronic health conditions.

• He has a calm temperament and is easy for vets to work with.

3. EXERCISE YOUR BODIES (AND MINDS)

As long as you're both strong and healthy, there's no reason not to exercise together. In fact, having a dog is a great motivator to get walking. Dogs thrive on physical activity, and just like us, getting into the outdoors has massive health benefits. If you're feeling more adventurous, consider hiking, dog yoga and even swimming to keep things fresh and interesting.

Dog sports like agility are excellent for both of you, and as the handler you’ll run just as much as your dog does. All breeds and ages of dogs can participate in dog sports, whether competitively or just for fun. Set one, three and sixmonth goals to live a more active lifestyle, and challenge yourself to stick to them.

4. FACE YOUR FEARS

Getting over a fear is a common New Year's resolution for humans, but have you ever considered how you could help your dog face his? Perhaps he is scared of storms, vacuum cleaners, or even plastic bags. Put some time aside this New Year to help him with his fear and consult a professional behaviourist if necessary. It will improve his quality of life — and yours.

5. EXPAND YOUR HORIZONS

Every year, more destinations offer dog-friendly options. Think about where you and your dog can go together for a change of scenery and perhaps some yummy treats. Find the closest dog park and pay a visit, even if you just walk around a little. If you're planning on going away, consider taking him with you. Alternatively, look up local dog walks and charity events so you can both get your steps in and pay a visit to a doggy cafe for a puppachino.

6. STAY PROTECTED

Accidents happen, and they can put us in precarious financial positions. If your dog isn't on medical aid yet, make some price comparisons and see if you can find a plan that suits his needs and your budget. Also, consider opening up a savings account you can use as an emergency fund. When it comes to making tough decisions, at least you'll know you have some financial backup.

7. HAVE REGULAR MEDICAL CHECK-UPS

It's so easy to neglect the check-ups when work starts up again and your days are full, but forewarned is forearmed. At the very least, commit to an annual check-up for you both, so you can rest assured you're on top of things health-wise.

8. COMMUNICATE BETTER

Does your dog have any lingering behavioural issues you just ignore? Maybe you started training and just couldn't find the time to keep it up. If you have to keep making excuses for your dog every time you have guests, this year could be the time to change that.  Consult a professional trainer and behaviourist and make it one of your priorities to get to the root of the issue. Your dog will be easier to manage if you understand the cause of the problem behaviour, and you can take steps to make him happier and more comfortable in his space.

9. SPEND MORE TIME TOGETHER

Life gets in the way sometimes, and all of a sudden, you realise you've barely seen your dog. Then you have all that pet owner guilt and sad doggy eyes to deal with. Get creative about how you can combine your leisure time with your dog's needs. Consider a new form of dog training, like tracking or scent work, to keep things interesting. If you want less pressure, just relax together — go for long walks, watch your favourite series cuddled up on the couch or get some new toys and play in the garden. You'll both benefit so much from that focused time together — schedule it in your diary if you have to.

HAVE A HAPPY NEW YEAR

Whatever you and your dog decide to do with your time, keep your relationship a happy one. Think wagging tails and lots of laughter, and you're on the right track. We're wishing you the happiest New Year from all of us at DQ Magazine!

Long considered to be the preserve of shepherds and gundog handlers, whistles are increasingly being recognised in the non-working dog community as great tools to help us communicate with our dogs clearly, without the inconsistencies inherent in voice commands. Whistle training can be fun and functional, so even if you only train a whistle cue for recall, it is worth considering using one as an alternative way to communicate with your dog.

WHY A WHISTLE?

Whistles were traditionally used because their sound is clear and can travel over long distances and uneven terrain. Whistle sounds are also often more easily heard in inclement weather conditions, which is why they are part of essential safety kits for mountaineers and explorers.

Whistles also make great alternatives to using our voices, as they are consistent and easy for our dogs to distinguish. Another significant factor in using whistles is that they are unlikely to make our emotional state obvious to our dogs. Think about those times when you are frustrated – your dog identifies this in your voice, particularly during a panicked recall. Using a whistle may make your feelings less obvious to your dog, making it more likely that he will want to come back to you.

DID YOU KNOW?

If you aspire to work in certain disciplines, such as herding or gundog work, whistle use is expected; in fact, in some disciplines, like gundog work, you can be penalised for excessive voice use.

fear not; other breeds can be easily trained to transfer existing behaviours to whistle cues. This is useful if your verbal cues have become sloppy or your dog has lost responsiveness to current words and commands.

Interestingly, older dogs with some hearing loss often retain the ability to hear and respond to the pitches of whistles. This means that retraining your older friend to the whistle may help him to remain active and learn new tricks.

All these points make whistles a great option to communicate with our dogs in a range of situations.

TOP TIP!

Purchasing a couple of whistles of the same pitch and keeping them in different places, such as in the car or on your keyring, means you will always have one handy!

CHOOSING A WHISTLE

There are several whistle options on the market that you can explore, from fancy engraved whistles, to ‘between the teeth’ shepherd’s whistles. Some people also opt for the referee ‘thunderer’ whistle or small metal ‘silent’ whistles that dogs can hear but might not always be discernible to humans.

However, plastic gundog whistles are a good option for ease of use. These are manufactured to be consistent in

pitch and are numbered as such. This means that if you buy one with a certain number and lose it, you can easily replace it with a new one of the same number, and the pitch will be identical. This is essential for consistency, as your dog will become familiar with both the pitch of the whistle and how you blow it. Other important features of these plastic whistles are that they are robust, cheap and easy to clean –many people even put them in the dishwasher!

WHISTLE USE

Before you head out with your whistle and dog, practise putting the whistle in your mouth, holding it between your teeth and saying a couple of words, such as your dog’s name and maybe your recall cue. This helps you to learn how to control your whistle and link whistle cues to existing verbal and behavioural cues your dog is already familiar with.

Practising this in front of your dog and dropping a treat when you pop the whistle into your mouth can help create a positive association for him, even before you ‘use’ the whistle properly.

The true sound of the whistle can worry some dogs to start with, so begin with a gentle introduction to build positive associations. Avoid blowing the whistle loudly initially and instead consider trying to train a recall whistle cue by blowing it gently at mealtimes (multiple ‘peeps’ are a common recall cue). This helps to create a favourable link between whistle, rewards and coming to you. This can

be a brilliant way to train solid and consistent whistle recalls at home before you venture outside into a more distracting environment.

Once the recall is mastered, you can start to put other behaviours onto a whistle cue. If your dog already has solid verbal cues, you can introduce a whistle cue beside your verbal cue and mark and reward appropriately. This way, you can expand your dog’s training toolbox.

Beyond recall, other common behaviours trained with whistle cues, including ‘stop’ (a long blast), ‘check-in/ turn’ (a short peep), ‘change direction’ (peep, peep), and ‘find it’ (twit twoo), but ultimately you can use any combination that works for you and your dog.

Providing you are consistent, clear and mark and reward your desired behaviour accurately, you will very quickly get your dog responsive to whistle cues. Who knows, your whistle might just become an essential part of your dog walking and training toolkit!

TEXT: SARAH WANLESS

Have you ever dreamed of taking your dog to the beach? Well, now's your chance. The time of the dog owner is finally here, and the days of having to leave your pet at home are history. In recent years we have seen a drastic increase in the number of establishments becoming pet friendly, which is fortunate for those of us who can't bear to go anywhere without our dogs; thankfully, this includes holiday accommodation as well.

On many popular sites such as Air BnB, Booking.com and Lekkerslaap there is now a filter option for pet-friendly accommodation – it really couldn't be easier! If you are thinking of taking your pooch away with you this festive season, here are a few of our top tips:

1. CHOOSE ACCOMMODATION THAT SUITS YOUR NEEDS

It goes without saying that you need to ensure that the accommodation you have selected is pet friendly, but it is important to look at the other elements like the size of the property, whether there is a garden, if it is fenced in, and if dogs are allowed on the furniture. Many places often also have a limit on the number of pets you can bring. It's always a good idea to contact the host and check reviews before booking.

2. COME PREPARED

Be prepared not only for the drive down but also for the trip as a whole. Ensure that you have sufficient food, medicine and treats for the duration of the stay (preferably some extra, just in case). This is extremely important if you are going away somewhere remote and can't restock. If you cannot take sufficient food along with you, be sure to check and see if there are pet stores in the area.

It is also important to take all your dog's supplies with you, such as his leash, collar, towels, poop bags and shampoo (particularly important for those mucky pups).

3. MAKE YOUR DOG AT HOME

It is important to bring your dog's creature comforts from home, such as bedding and bowls. While not only necessary (many places do not allow dogs on the furniture), it will also help your dog settle down and feel more at home in the new, unfamiliar environment.

4. KEEP CALM AND CARRY ON

If you have a dog prone to anxiety, it is a good idea to discuss calming supplement options with your vet.

5. HEALTH AND SAFETY

Depending on where you are, it is a good idea to find the local vet's details and keep them on hand, just in case. During the festive season, it is also wise to familiarize yourself with their operating hours. Then, ensure the venue is safe and secure. Be sure you have your contact details on their collar/harness and a working, registered microchip. Taking your dog on amazing adventures is the biggest appeal for taking them with you, but be sure that it is safe for them to be off leash and that they have a strong recall before allowing them their freedom in a new and exciting environment. If any of these elements are not in place, then we strongly recommend keeping them on a leash.

6. PLAN YOUR TRIP

Check the surrounding area for pet-friendly venues. It goes without saying that you'll want to explore the town, and it is important to know that your dog is welcome to join you. And remember, not all beaches and hiking venues accommodate dogs.

It is also important to check the accommodation's policy about leaving your pet behind/unattended, as many places do not allow this, so you'll need to plan accordingly. If you go out without your pup, ensure they are secure and happy and try not to stay out for too long. Some areas may have a local dog sitter who can assist if you plan on taking a longer day trip.

ENJOY!

Finally, have the best time and remember to send photos to us here at DQ Magazine!

baking FESTIVE

TURKEY AND CRANBERRY MUFFINS

What better way to spend a few hours this Christmas than baking your best friend some delicious turkey and cranberry muffins?

What

you’ll need

• 500g of minced turkey

• 1 cup of gluten-free oats

• 1 small beaten egg

• 1 tablespoon of cranberries sliced in half

• 1 grated brussel sprout (yes, even your dog has to eat one!)

• A small pinch of dried cinnamon

• Coconut oil for greasing the tin

• A muffin tray

Instructions

• Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius or 160 degrees Celsius if you have a fan oven.

• Put all the ingredients into a large bowl and thoroughly mix them.

• Lightly grease your muffin tray with the coconut oil.

• Spoon the ingredients into the tray and place in the preheated oven on the middle shelf for 15 minutes.

• When baked, leave them to cool before feeding.

Once baked, you should put them in an airtight container in the fridge and feed them within one week or freeze and use them within three months.

A NOTE ON CRANBERRIES

If you can’t find fresh cranberries, then the dried version can be used and soaked before adding to the recipe. Just make sure that when using dried cranberries, they have not had any artificial sweetener added to them.

Happy New Year

TOP CHRISTMAS

dangers FOR DOGS

THINGS TO BE AWARE OF THIS FESTIVE SEASON

Whilst we never want to be killjoys, there are a few important hazards to watch out for with our dogs over this festive period. Keep your dog away from these, and you should have a happy and safe Christmas together!

HAZARD 1: ARTIFICIAL SWEETENERS

Ingestion of artificial sweeteners can lead to potentially fatal hypoglycaemia, acute liver disease and blood clotting.

HAZARD 2: MOULDY FOODS

These can make your dog very ill, so don’t give your dog food that is out of date.

HAZARD 3: COOKED BONES

Once cooked, bones become brittle and splinter into shards which can damage the digestive tract.

HAZARD 4: SALT DOUGH ORNAMENTS

Salt dough ornaments, as many children make in school, are super cute but can give your dog vomiting, diarrhoea or even seizures if consumed.

HAZARD 5: GLASS BAUBLES

Easily broken when chewed, these can cause cuts and, if ingested, can severely damage the digestive tract.

HAZARD 6: LILIES

Lilies are toxic and can cause convulsions. If ingested in large amounts, they can be fatal.

HAZARD 7: SILICA GEL PACKETS

These are typically non-toxic but can cause blockages in the digestive tract.

HAZARD 8: WRAPPING PAPER

Whilst most wrapping paper is low in toxicity, large amounts can cause a blockage in the digestive tract.

AND RAISINS

These are common ingredients in Christmas cake, Christmas pudding and mince pies and can be highly poisonous to dogs.

HAZARD 12: FAIRY LIGHTS

If switched on and chewed, your dog can get a nasty electric shock.

HAZARD 13: TINSEL

Consumption of tinsel can give your dog an upset stomach and can get stuck in the intestines causing serious damage.

HAZARD 14: BATTERIES

Consumption of batteries can cause heavy metal poisoning and chemical burns.

HAZARD 16: POTPOURRI

This can cause serious gastrointestinal issues that last for several days.

HAZARD 17: POINSETTIA, MISTLETOE AND IVY

These plants are mildly toxic and can cause vomiting, diarrhoea and

HAZARD 18: ALCOHOL

Alcohol can cause your dog to have difficulty breathing or even put your dog into a coma if large amounts are consumed.

HAZARD 19: BLUE CHEESE

The ‘mould’ of blue cheese contains a substance called Roquefortine C, which dogs are very sensitive to.

HAZARD 20: MACADAMIA NUTS

These can cause weakness, tremors, vomiting and hypothermia within just 12 hours of consumption.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE

It goes without saying that if you are concerned that your dog has been exposed to or ingested something hazardous, you should go straight to your vet for assistance. Most issues can be dealt with if detected quickly enough, so get your dog to the vet as soon as you possibly can!

TEXT: SARAH WANLESS

FESTIVE - DRESS

fancy

HOW TO INTRODUCE DRESS-UP IN A

DOG-FRIENDLY WAY

As we all prepare for the festive season, many of us get excited at the prospect of decking our dogs out in Christmas attire – after all, who doesn’t love a dog in reindeer antlers!? Yet, it is essential to remember that as fun as the activity may be for us, our pets’ comfort and happiness must come first. Just like us, dogs have their own personalities and preferences, and these will, at least to some extent, dictate how happy your dog is about festive dress-up.

IF YOU HAVE A RELATIVELY HAPPY-GOLUCKY POOCH, HERE ARE OUR TIPS FOR TRYING SOME FESTIVE DRESS-UP:

TIP 1: Start slow. When introducing your pet to new dressup items, it is best to take your time. Never force them to wear an item that you can see makes them stressed or uncomfortable. We recommend habituating your dog to the new feel, smell and texture of the fabric over a period of time using the following steps:

• Start by letting your pet interact with the new item and reward them for any positive interaction they may have with it.

• Once they are comfortable with the item, you can start by placing it on their body, stroking, brushing and laying it on them for short periods, all the while praising your dog for accepting the new item.

• Over a period of several days, as your pet’s confidence grows, you can apply the item correctly and increase the duration with which your pet wears it – all the while rewarding them.

The goal here is teaching your dog to be comfortable in the item by either using play or food, which ultimately results in an all-round positive experience for you and your dog.

TIP 2: Always be alert to changes in your dog. Even though you have taken the time to habituate your dog to their new outfit there is still a chance that it can cause distress or discomfort. Please be sure to monitor your dog and advocate for them the moment they exhibit any signs of distress by immediately removing the item.

TIP 3: Choose the outfit wisely. When selecting an outfit for your dog, please consider the following:

• Seasonality and temperature - as Christmas is during the summer, we don’t want our furry friends to overheat.

• Size and fit - ensure the size and fit are correct to make sure your dog is as comfortable and safe as possible. They should happily walk, run, sniff and sleep in the outfit!

• Avoid items that interfere with your pet’s eyes, ears, nose and mouth. Whilst you can habituate your pet to sit for a quick photo with antlers on, it is not advisable to leave these on your pet for longer than it takes to do the photograph.

• Only use clothes explicitly made for pets. These are safe for your pet to wear and have taken into account a multitude of factors, such as style, fit, fabric etc.  TIP 4: Play it safe. While your pet may not yet be ready for a full outfit, you can always start them off in a festive collar,

bowtie or bandana. It is often the case that less is more, and opting for smaller, less complicated items is preferable, particularly if your dog is not regularly ‘dressed-up’.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE

For some dogs, dress-up is just a no-no, and we must respect their wishes. For those who are less phased, we must still take it slow and watch their behaviour to ensure we’re not creating any anxiety or discomfort. Follow the steps above, and if your dog enjoys the experience, post a photo and tag #dqmagazine.

If you want to advertise with us, please contact Dr Lizzie Harrison info@dqmagazine.co.za

MUCKY POOCH

We’re all feeling the pinch right now and trying to cut costs where we can. Unfortunately, whilst grooming may feel ‘optional’ for our dogs (a bit like that haircut we should have had two months ago), it isn’t something we can afford to scrimp on, particularly if our dogs have longer hair. Skin and sometimes general health are impacted by a lack of grooming, and it is important that we bear this in mind when considering cutting back. Thankfully, all is not lost, and there are things we can do to reduce our grooming bills and make our overall grooming routines lower maintenance in the long run.

Here we give you our top five tips for reducing grooming costs and keeping your dog’s skin and coat in optimal condition:

1. GO SHORT

If your dog has long hair, we wouldn’t advise necessarily stretching the time between cuts by making your dog’s current haircut last longer. This comes with the risk of your dog needing a total shave down due to the coat matting as it becomes too long. Instead, a better alternative is to cut the coat shorter. As an added bonus, shorter coats are much easier to rinse and towel dry when your dog has gone for a summer swim! Plus, with the current temperatures, your dog is likely to be much more comfortable overall with a shorter style.

2. BRUSH IT

Year-round it is important that you brush your dog regularly between grooming appointments. The goal is to get your brush from the root to the tip of the coat, so don’t cheat by just brushing the top layer! Make sure you separate the coat into sections and work through each section carefully to get out all the knots. The better maintained your dog’s coat is, and the more he is used to being groomed, the easier he will be to groom. This also helps avoid any additional charges groomers might add on for dealing with heavily matted coats.

3. SPRAYS

Consider investing in a good canine coat conditioning spray. Applying the spray before brushing will help to avoid breaking the coat and causing it to mat. There are lots of suitable sprays on the market but double-check the instructions before you use them. Most sprays just require a misting over the coat, which you then brush in and leave to dry.

4. WET DOG!

If your dog comes home wet from a summer swim, avoid letting him go and roll about to try and dry himself on your rugs and furniture. The friction of this will cause the coat to tangle and mat. Instead, pat the coat dry with an absorbent towel, spray with conditioning spray, and brush the coat thoroughly.

5. TALK TO YOUR GROOMER

If your dog has regular visits to a groomer, it is worth chatting to them about how you might be able to cut costs or cut the frequency of visits. They may, for instance, suggest that you book full grooming sessions further apart and add a less expensive bath and brush appointment in between, or even do the bath and brush yourself at home. Alternatively, they may cut the hair in a style that requires less frequent visits, as noted under point 1 above. We wouldn’t recommend jumping around from groomer to groomer looking for the cheapest deal, as hopefully, your dog has built trust and confidence in your regular groomer, but it is always worth asking your groomer if there is anything they can do to help.

NOTE

Groomers are also struggling right now with the cost-of-living crisis, and if you can afford to keep up with your regular visits, we’re sure they would really appreciate the support!

Text | Bianca Rootman

With December and school holidays upon us, many of us will be spending time outside around a pool or dam, weather permitting of course… This means that our companions will be spending time around bodies of water too. Contrary to popular belief, not all dogs can swim, and a lot of them don’t actually enjoy swimming. Enabling our companions to make this decision for themselves, by safely introducing them to water, is a vital learning curve in their lives, and it shapes our companions’ feelings about water for the rest of their lives. If our companions have access to, or could potentially have access to any deep body of water, even if just for a brief period, it is vital that they are shown the basics of how to swim, and how to safely exit the water.

Working in a field which uses hydrotherapy every single day, I’ve heard many people say that their puppy was thrown or bumped into water and has been petrified since. This is completely understandable and makes it easy to see how a water phobia develops. In our experience, with some patience, guidance, and gentle encouragement, most of these companions can be helped to tolerate water again, even if they are never the water babies they might have been.

The very first place to start, whether your companion is young or old, is with reassurance and trust. If you are picking your dog up and throwing them into the pool, they are never going to trust you, and they are never going to enjoy being in water. So, start slowly; encourage your companion to be around the body of water, and encourage and praise any interest in, or movement towards, the water. This may require a few sessions of desensitising a really scared dog. Using treats and toys can also make a big difference. Most pools require your companion to climb down onto the step. This would be one part that I would encourage you to physically assist your companion with, until they have learnt how to get in by themselves. For bigger dogs, and for pools with a step, allow them just to stand on the step and experience being in the water. If they want to get out, allow them to. For the little dogs who cannot stand, I would encourage you to be in the pool with them and just hold them in your arms, or allow them to sit on your lap. Remember to praise, and make a big fuss so they know they are doing well.

When encouraging your companion to move off the step or go deeper where they will actually have to swim, we always encourage you to be in the pool with them. This allows you to be right there if things go wrong, and provide some degree of comfort to your companion. It also allows you to guide your companion back towards the step or way out. If you only get your companion in the pool once, make sure that your main objective is to show them where the step or exit is. This is vital, and could potentially prevent an accident should your companion fall in, or be knocked in accidentally at some point. They must always know where to get out, and they must always be able to somehow get out. What works best during the first introduction, if they are willing, is to encourage your companion to swim half a length, or make a small circle, then allow them back to the step, or back into your arms. This can be repeated a few more times before allowing them to get out. Don’t forget to praise or treat your companion for their efforts. It should be a fun and positive experience. This process can be repeated over the next few days. These next few sessions should give you a good idea as to whether your companion is a fan of swimming or not. They may start jumping in by themselves, or sitting on the step, or they may run and hide every time you look at the pool. We cannot force them to like swimming, and some dogs, like people, will never be converted.

Another important note about swimming is to remember that it is an intensive exercise. There is a great deal of physical and cardiovascular strength required to swim. For this reason, it is best to seek professional advice before swimming a weak, compromised, very young, or old companion. There are many medical conditions where swimming is contraindicated. Rehabilitation and hydrotherapy centres offer the perfect environment in which your companion can be assessed to be swimming fit or not, and also safely introduced to swimming. Generally, only one or two sessions will be needed to introduce your companion to swimming at a hydrotherapy centre, and you will be given advice and guidance on how to swim your companion at home.

So, before throwing or forcing your companion into the pool this December, just remember what a scary experience it would be for them. There are safe and positive ways to allow your companion the opportunity to decide whether they enjoy this swimming thing or not.

ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO RYNFIELD

154 President Brand Str, Rynfield, Benoni

Contact: 083 230 2188

Email: animalhealths@gmail.com

ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO PRETORIA EAST

Contact: 074 251 4410 Email: ahahpretoria@gmail.com

Basic knowledge of our dog's anatomy is incredibly valuable in spotting any issues early on. In this article, we give tips on what you can assess by looking at your dog and what you can pick up using your hands. The easiest way to start learning about your dog's anatomy is to take photos of your dog in a neutral standing position. Ideally, you want to take photographs from both sides, in front, behind and above. You can then refer back to these photos regularly to get your eye in.

Once you feel familiar with his appearance when stationary, you can video your dog walking and study this as well. When watching the video, pick a different area to focus on each time, e.g. the head or the front right leg. Once you have watched each area, rewatch again, looking at the overall picture – you'll be surprised how much more you pick up than the first time you looked at the video.

THE BASICS OF CANINE ANATOMY

In many ways, a dog's anatomy is very similar to a human's, with the obvious differentiator being the different orientation that allows the dog to move on all four limbs. Interestingly, dogs aren't actually four-legged; they have two arms and two legs but can walk on their arms. They walk on four tip toes and fingertips, with the fifth digit being the dew claw.

OBSERVATION

Starting with observation, have your dog standing with all paws on the ground, looking forward. It may also be worth using photographs at this stage, as getting a dog to stand still for long periods can be a challenge.

Looking at your dog from the front, you will see the head, front of the shoulders, chest, elbows, wrists and paws. Look if the shoulders, elbows etc., are all the same level or is one side higher than the other? Do the elbows and paws flare out or in? Does one side of the body turn out more than the other?

From the side, you can see the head, neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, spine and top line, chest and ribs, abdomen, hips and pelvis, tail position, stifle (knee), hock (ankle) and paws. This makes the side a great place to identify your anatomical landmarks. From the side, you can also look to see if their body weight is tipped forward or if their back or abdomen dips down. You can also compare the left and right sides and see if there is a difference between the two.

BONES OF THE DOG

From the back, you can see the back of the side of the ribs, the hips, the pelvis, the gluteal muscles, the hamstrings, the back of the stifles (knees), the hocks (ankles) and the paws. You can also see whether one side of the body is more visible than the other and whether the skull is straight. Finally, you can look at the position of the tail.

PALPATION

Always be gentle when trying to feel the anatomical landmarks on your dog. The easiest parts to palpate are the bony landmarks, so this is the best place to start.

SPINE: Your dog has bony protuberances on the back of his spine called spinous processes. You can feel these little bony points if you use your fingers to gently feel along the midline of the back.

RIBS: On a dog who is a healthy weight, you should be able to feel the ribs easily. In between the ribs, you can feel the muscles called the external intercostal muscles. These muscles are used to move the ribs during breathing.

SCAPULA (SHOULDER BLADE): If you run your hand up the front leg to the top and onto your dog's body, you should

feel the shoulder blade under your hand. It is on the body at an angle and has a bony ridge called the 'spine of the scapula' running down the middle. The bone is oval in shape and is held onto the ribs by muscles and ligaments. It has powerful muscles attached to it for support and movement. If you feel the spine of the scapula and let your fingers fall foward towards the dog's head, you will feel the supraspinatus muscle. If you drop off the other side of the spine of the scapula, you will feel infraspinatus. These muscles are also attached to the upper part of the limb and are used for limb movement.

ELBOW: Down from the shoulder blade on the front leg, you will first feel the humerus and then the elbow joint. The elbow flexes (folds) fully but only extends (straightens) until the arm is straight. As you bend the elbow slightly, you can feel the hard pointy bit at the back. This is called the

TOP TIP!

If, in the process of doing these examinations, you feel any part and it hurts, or your dog looks asymmetrical either while standing or in movement, you should speak to your vet to get their opinion.

STIFLE: The stifle is the name given to the joint that corresponds to the human knee. It is where the femur (upper leg), the tibia and the fibula (lower leg) meet. Movement of this joint is powered by the hamstrings and quadriceps muscle groups, which are both incredibly powerful. These sit on either side of the upper leg and attach from the pelvis to below the stifle on the lower leg.

THE PATELLA: The patella (knee cap) is a bone that helps reduce friction during muscle movement and improves the function of the quadriceps muscles on the front of the upper leg. It sits in the tendon of the muscles and allows the tendon to glide across the bone smoothly. The patella can be felt in the muscle just above the front of the stifle joint.

HOCK: The dog's hock is the same as our ankle. You can easily see the strong tendons at the back, similar to our Achilles tendon. You will notice that their paw does not flatten on the floor but looks like part of the leg. The bony part at the back of the hock is the heel or calcaneus bone, which can be easily felt.

FINAL THOUGHTS

There is a lot that you can see and feel in your dog, and having a good understanding of what is 'normal' for your dog can help you spot issues early before they cause bigger problems.

First and foremost, you need to follow the advice of your vet, but here we will outline some general principles that might help you on your way.

If your dog is recovering after injury, illness or surgery, nutrition may support healing. A source of quality and digestible protein to support the repair and recovery of the tissues is likely to be key.

You may, however, need to watch the calorie content of

your dog’s diet, especially if he is resting and going to be inactive for a period. This ensures he doesn’t put on extra weight, which might slow his recovery or make his return to normal fitness more challenging.

If your dog has had an illness involving the digestive tract, small, regular and digestible meals will help the digestive system heal while still doing its job. You might also consider adding prebiotics and probiotics to his diet to further support digestive health.

Ultimately, however, each case is different, and your vet needs to advise you for your particular case.

How should you feed your dog after illness or injury?

Puppies have the tiniest bladders, so, of course, they regularly have to empty them. Similarly, they also haven’t learned to control their bowels, so accidents can happen.

If your puppy makes a mistake, never scold him. This could create a fearful puppy who wees and poos when you are not around or hides and does it anyway.

The best method is to be there when your puppy gets it right and reward him; this means regular garden trips. Allow him into the garden once every hour and wait patiently. If he wees or poos, give him

calm praise during the act and treat him directly afterwards. You must be out there with him to deliver this praise and reward. This reinforces the correct behaviour, meaning he is more likely to get it right the next time.

At night, his toilet habits won’t be quite as frequent (thankfully). However, you can leave a puppy pad near his sleeping area should he wake up and need to go.

If there is an accident and he messes in the house, take him calmly to the garden and if he continues out there, give calm praise and reward.

Essentially, you want to give your puppy the greatest chance of getting it right and getting rewarded for doing so. As he gets older, you can space the trips to the garden further and further apart.

How do I toilet-train my eight-week-old puppy?

Products we love

Shopping fun

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This product is lower in protein, fat and phosphorus than our PaleoPet Pure Classic Complete Meals, and so is ideal for older dogs requiring a bit more fibre and some digestive help, or dogs with liver or kidney issues.

As this product contains only duck protein, it is a great alternative for dogs with chicken allergies.

As with all PaleoPet Pure Complete meals a

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