DQ Magazine Issue 4C

AFRICA’S PREMIER DOG MAGAZINE

Hello, and welcome to this new edition of DQ Magazine!

We hope you’re all well despite the crazy weather we’re experiencing! Outside of the thunderstorms, our dogs seem thrilled with the muddy puddles and opportunities to dig some nice wet soil, so there are some benefits to the weather (although our carpets and furniture would tell a different story!)

This issue is again jam-packed with canine content for your enjoyment. Our breed of the month is the fascinating Rottweiler – check out their history to see what we mean! We also have an article on the cardiac system in canines and the two most common forms of heart disease, mitral valve disease and dilated cardiomyopathy. We also have a feature on the size classifications of different dogs and how this goes someway to predicting your dog’s behaviour and activity levels, and an insightful piece by Animal Health and Hydro on the dangers of ball games with our dogs.

Of course, there’s so much more we could also list here, but the fastest way to get your dog info fix is to dive into the contents page and check out the articles you find the most fascinating.

As always, we’d like to thank our generous advertisers who make it possible for us to provide this magazine free of charge. We’re incredibly grateful for their support!

Finally, thank you to you, our readers, for your enthusiasm for the magazine. We love seeing the reads go up every single month and encourage those of you who are new to the title to go back and browse through our old editions – there’s plenty of great content there too!

With much love,

Dr Lizzie Harrison | Editor

Designer: Anne Royden-Turner

IN THIS ISSUE

46 Safe ball play

With Animal Health and Hydro

52 Getting to the heart of the problem

Understanding the circulatory system in dogs

62 Pearly whites

Understanding your dog’s teeth

68 Tasty toppers

Homemade dog gravy

70 Ask DQ

Your dog questions answered

72 Products we love

Understanding

About
us

We
ethically
and
responsibly
breed,
raise
and
sell
short‑legged
 and
smooth
coat
Jack
Russell
Terrier
puppies
that
uphold
and
 improve
upon
this
purpose‑bred,
working
breed
in
terms
of
 temperament
and
conformation.

Our
puppies

• Are
raised
in
a
family
environment.

• Are
registered
with
the
CanineSA
Registry.

• Are
certified
healthy
at
their
6
week,
veterinary
checkup.

• Are
raised
on
excellent
quality
kibble
designed
for
 growing
puppies.

• Are
microchipped.

• Have
been
dewormed
a
number
of
times.

• Have
received
their
first
vaccination.

• Are
ready
to
go
to
their
new
homes
at
8
weeks
of
age.

EACH
PUPPY
COMES
WITH
A
 COMPLEMENTARY
STARTER
KIT
WHICH
 INCLUDES:

• A
Callensby
keyring.

• A
blanket.

• A
toy.

• 2
hooves.

• A
deworming
treatment.

• A
Pro‑Kolin
treatment.

• A
R200
electronic
voucher
to
spend
on
 any
Royal
Canin
dog
food
purchase,
 and
is
redeemable
at
most
vets
and
pet
 stores.

THE
ADVANCED
STARTER
KIT:

Our
patrons
are
given
the
opportunity
to
 purchase
 an
 advanced,
 customizable,
 starter
kit
alongside
their
puppy,
which
will
 be
inclusive
of
all
the
products
they
would
 need
to
care
for
their
puppy.

OUR
PROMISE:
We
endeavour
to
provide
each
patron
with
a
happy
and
healthy
puppy,
 and
commit
ourselves
to
being
available
as
much
as
is
reasonable
 for
any
help
and
queries
that
patrons
may
have.

Callensby
Jack
Russell
Terrier
Breeding
Kennels

TEXT: RHIANNON CECIL

The Rottweiler

THIS BEAUTIFUL AND BRAINY DOG IS THE UNWAVERING PROTECTOR OF YOUR HOME.

Rottweilers are truly magnificent dogs - intelligent, energetic and more than a little intimidating. Inside your home, however, these large softies, with their characteristic calm and confident natures, make excellent companions.

ROTTWEILER HISTORY

The Rottweiler has a long and fascinating history. It's believed Rottweilers originated from drover dogs (cattledriving dogs) left behind by Roman legions in Rottweil, Germany, around the 2nd Century AD.

From the Middle Ages until the 19th century, these multifaceted canines would accompany butchers and tradespeople, protecting them from thieves and other malicious people who dared to cross their path. Back in these times, Rottweilers were used as multipurpose working dogs. They had the endurance to drive cattle long distances and protect them from rustlers on the way to market in Rottweil. After the cattle were slaughtered, they pulled the carts loaded with meat from town to town to be sold. Then once the butcher had sold their wares, they tied their money purses around their trusted Rottie's neck, so any thieves would think twice about stealing it. As the ultimate butcher's partner, Rottweilers earned the name 'Rottweiler Metzgerhund' — the Butcher's Dog of Rottweil. After the beginning of Germany's industrialisation in the 19th century, its people established railways and modernised their farming techniques. Droving dogs were no longer required to drive cattle long distances, and the Rottweiler — along with many other working breeds around the world — was essentially retired. Many of

these breeds either became extinct or came very close to extinction, including the Rottweiler and German Shepard. Yet, due to their endurance, intelligence, and strength, the breed did manage to survive, and Rottweiler history continued, but it wasn't until the turn of the 20th century that the Rottweilers' skills were once again put to good use.

The Rottweiler regained its place in society as a working dog and was awarded positions in the German police force and military. At this pivotal moment in Rottie history, official standards were created to recognise and

Although this breed remains as protective and vigilant as their ancestors, there are notable changes in their physique and development. The Rottweilers of today are larger and heavier, preventing them from partaking in too much strenuous activity. The modern-day Rottweiler still holds his place in society as a fierce working dog, often used for police work and guarding purposes. Yet, many Rottweilers have also crept their way into the hearts of families as a soft cuddle bug with a squishy face that strikes fear into the hearts of anyone who wishes to harm their people.

ROTTWEILER OVERVIEW

Rottweilers are fascinating dogs not only because of their long history with humanity but also because of how they have adapted to fit so well in changing times. Due to different breeding conditions and standards,

Rottweilers can be classified as medium-large and largesized dogs.

Rotties' most prominent features include a coarse, short, black coat with tan markings on the head, chest and legs. They are stocky and well-built, with bodies slightly longer than they are tall. If bred correctly, they should be strong, athletic and endurant.

They are robust dogs, weighing anywhere between 36kg – 54kg and measuring approximately 55cm in small females and 70cm in larger males. They have triangular heads with equal sides and blunt edges, mediumlength muzzles, and almond-shaped eyes. Their ears are triangular and laid forward on the head, and they have long, thick tails with a slight upward curve at the end. Traditionally, Rottweilers had docked tails, but it's illegal in most countries and not aligned with the breed standard.

There are four types of Rottweiler, but only three actually count as true Rottweilers:

1. The American Rottweiler: These Rotties were born in America, and they are slightly smaller due to challenges in the initial breeding stages. They're considered medium dogs, easy to identify due to their more diminutive stature and almond-shaped eyes.

2. The German Rottweiler: These German Rotties are descended from the original breeding stock. Subject to stricter breed standards than their American counterparts, breeding is heavily controlled. These gorgeous stamps of the original are considered large breed dogs — standing at 63 to 70cm at the shoulder and weighing between 35 and 60kg.

3. Roman Rottweiler: Also known as the Giant Rottweiler, King Rottweiler and Colossal Rottweiler, these Rotties are mixed with Mastiffs. In fact, purists claim they're not really Rotties at all. The Roman Rottweiler is stocky, with a broad head and strong jawline and round eyes.

4. Rare Rottweilers: Many breeders are offering the so-called 'rare' Rottweiler. In fact, there is no such thing. They are simply mixed with other breeds to provide various sizes and coat lengths. They cost less and often don't qualify as purebreds.

Rottweilers are happiest when given a job to do. They're working dogs but make excellent companions. If appropriately socialised, they mix well with other pets.

A Rottie is a natural guard dog — a calm and confident protector that displays a 'wait-and-see' approach to new people and situations. Despite their reputation, Rottweilers are not unduly aggressive. With the correct training, they know how and when to protect. However, these dogs will not hesitate to attack when they feel threatened or their family is in danger. They are better suited for experienced dog owners, as this protective temperament may challenge a first-timer.

DID YOU KNOW?

Rottweilers were some of the first dogs to be used as Guide Dogs.

This breed is intelligent and learns quickly, making them fun and easy to train. Training must begin early and incorporate positive reinforcement only. Be generous with the treats and praise and avoid punishment, as this can quickly result in an overly aggressive or timid Rottie.

LIVING WITH A ROTTWEILER

Rotties make excellent family dogs. They are extremely affectionate and great with kids if properly trained and socialised early. They tend to be patient, gentler and more protective with younger children. Yet, although they are great with kids, accidents do happen, so supervision is necessary. Rottweilers enjoy exercise such as running or hiking and absolutely love swimming, so be sure to include a dip on one of your adventures.

Rottweilers were among some of the earliest police and military dogs and make exceptional guard dogs. They don't tend to bark unnecessarily but instead will stay calm and assess the situation. If an intruder arrives, they are likely to act decisively if they sense danger, so a high and secure fence is essential for Rottie owners.

You will need to rigorously stimulate your Rottie mentally

and physically to prevent unwanted behaviour. Regular training is a must, and Rottweilers make excellent manwork and obedience dogs. Your Rottie will appreciate the extra stimulation, and you get the opportunity to hone his natural desire to work and protect.

These dogs are pretty easy to maintain. Their double coat regularly sheds, with heavy shedding at least a year, but a weekly brush is enough to keep them neat and tidy and minimise the amount of fur all over your house. Rotties have sensitive skin, so only bathe them when necessary and opt for a specialised shampoo.

ROTTWEILER HEALTH

Like all dog breeds, Rotties come with their own set of challenges, but in general, they’re a healthy breed. Here is what to look out for if you are considering getting a Rottweiler puppy:

• Their average life span is around 8 - 10 years.

• They will need a general check-up twice a year.

• If puppies develop too fast, it can cause bone and joint problems, so ensure your dog has appropriate nutrition from the outset.

• Rottweilers are prone to skin conditions such as wet eczema, and it is crucial to check their skin for sores or irritations regularly.

• Rottweilers are prone to hip dysplasia. It is essential not to overdo the exercise in puppyhood. Introduce exercise gradually when mature.

• Despite their size, children shouldn't ride Rottweilers. It can damage their spines!

• Progressive Retinal Atrophy, conjunctivitis, and cataracts are common in older dogs.

IS A ROTTWEILER THE RIGHT DOG FOR YOU?

A Rottweiler might be the right dog for you if:

• You live on a large plot or have a big garden for them to exercise and play.

• You want extra protection for your family and property (make sure to train them properly, though).

• You enjoy partaking in canine activities such as attack or obedience training, agility competitions, or cart pulling.

• You have other pets — your Rottie will get along with them if he's properly socialised.

• You enjoy a challenge and have a positive attitude towards those challenges.

• You have extra time to dedicate to training.

• You enjoy running and hiking and want a companion that keeps you safe.

• You don't mind a high-energy, super-strong dog.

A Rottweiler might not be the right dog for you if:

• You live in an apartment or have a tiny garden.

• You are a first-time or novice dog owner.

• You don't enjoy long walks or runs.

• You prefer smaller dog breeds or can't handle strong breeds.

• You don't have the time for extra training.

• You have small children and are unable to constantly supervise canine interactions.

FINAL THOUGHTS

From cattle drovers to family pets, Rottweilers have happily found their place in today's society. We are sure you will agree that they are fascinating canines, although not suited to every family.

If you are considering adopting a Rottweiler to join your family or outdoor adventures, be sure to choose an ethical breeder and join your local dog training facility. If you set yourself up to get the most from this versatile breed, you'll have a happy and unfailingly loyal guardian. Once you get the hang of a Rottie, no other dog is quite like one.

Dog size CLASSIFICATION

Some dogs fit conveniently into a size category — they’re tiny or massive, and it’s pretty easy to see where they belong in terms of classification. Other dogs present more of a challenge, especially if they’re of the rescue variety.  Knowing where your dog fits in terms of size classification is important — it has an overall impact on his health and day-to-day care requirements, lifespan, activity requirements and the cost of owning him. His size determines whether he’ll be suited to certain environments, lifestyles and purposes. Aside from this, it’s just cool to know. In this two-part series, we’ll take a closer look at our more diminutive friends, the small and medium breed dogs.

PART 1

HOW ARE DOGS CLASSIFIED?

We assume size classifications are just for our purebred four-legged friends, but in fact, dog breed sizes are determined by a dog’s weight and height. Dogs are divided into four main categories — small, medium, large and giant. Small dogs can be categorised further into teacup, miniature and toy breeds.

A note: As dog sizes are determined by their weight, it’s worth noting that these classifications are based on a healthy dog. An overweight or obese dog may weigh more, but he doesn’t fall into a different category.

As a rule of thumb, dog size classifications based on weight are as follows:

• Teacup: 1.8kg or less

• Miniature: 1.3kg – 5.5kg

• Toy: 2.2kg – 5.5kg

• Small Breeds: Less than 5.5kg – 10kg. This classification encompasses the previous three classifications as well.

• Medium Breeds: 11kg – 26kg

• Large Breeds: 26kg – 45kg

• Giant Breeds: 45kg or more

WEIGH YOUR DOG

This might be a bit more challenging if you have a large or giant breed, but you can weigh your dog at home with this simple method:

1. Hop onto the scale and jot down your own weight.

2. Grab your canine friend and hop on the scale again. Write this number down too.

3. Subtract the first number from the second, and voila, you know how much your dog weighs.

SIZE DOES MATTER

Whether you’re looking to add a dog to your family or already have a canine companion, determining his size is helpful, as it gives you an indication of his requirements. Size classification is not a hard and fast principle, and there are exceptions. Great Danes, for instance, are giant breeds but docile enough to cope with apartment living as long as you give them enough exercise. Small breeds, like Jack Russels, will need a large garden to run and play in. So, while size does matter, breed characteristics are just as important.

In general, small breeds have a longer lifespan, but teacup dogs are often bred from litter runts and, as a result, can come with health complications. In this regard, smaller isn’t always better. Toy breeds, such as the indomitable Chihuahua, can live for up to 20 years, so it’s important to realise that if your dog falls into this category, he’s going to be around for a long time. Be sure you’re up for that commitment, and the two of you had better get along and play nice!

SMALL BREED DOGS – SMALL, TOY, MINIATURE AND TEACUP

Small breed dogs make great companions and are super cute and cuddly. They are easy to look after and don’t need

much space or exercise. They also eat less, which makes them more cost-effective to feed in the long term.

Our small breeds are versatile — they are easy to handle for children and older adults. The flipside, however, is their fragility. It doesn’t take much to injure them. They can be dropped, sat on, loved too roughly by children, or simply jump off a bed or couch that’s too high for them.

Teacups are the smallest of the small dogs; miniature and toy are roughly the same size; and anything under 5.5 kg is classified as small.

PROS OF OWNING A SMALL BREED DOG

• They make great apartment pets, especially in highdensity areas, due to their small size and minimal exercise requirements.

DOGS AT HOME

• They’re relatively easy to handle.

• They make great companion dogs for elderly folks.

• They are easier to transport. You can take them almost anywhere.

• More public places are becoming tolerant of small breed dogs.

• Small dogs make great cuddle buddies, and many breeds love to dress up and get pampered.

• Feeding and general veterinary procedures are less expensive.

• They don’t take up much space, so you can have more of them.

• The life expectancy of smaller dogs is generally longer.

• Their accessories and apparel are cheaper.

• They’re alert and make excellent alarm systems.

CONS OF OWNING A SMALL BREED DOG

• Smaller breeds can be extremely vocal, which can cause problems if you live in apartments or close to your neighbours.

• They can be challenging to train and house train. On the plus side, their messes are easier to clean while they’re learning, but that’s not an excuse to neglect proper house training.

• Small breeds can display resource-guarding behaviour. They can be overly protective of their space and belongings. They often challenge larger dogs if their space is invaded, which can land them on the wrong side of a set of much bigger teeth.

• They require training, which can be neglected because they’re so cute, but letting unacceptable behaviour slide results in problems down the line.

• They have exercise limitations. Comparatively, they need less exercise than bigger dogs and dehydrate easily. If you are an active person that likes to go on long walks or runs, consider getting a larger breed to accompany you.

• They are delicate and don’t know their own size. Toy and teacup breeds are especially susceptible to injury. You’ll have to monitor them around children and larger dogs, as one misstep can have tragic consequences.

COMMON SMALL BREED DOGS

• Maltese Terrier

• Chihuahua

• Yorkshire Terrier

• Jack Russel Terrier

• Pug

• Pomeranian

MEDIUM BREED DOGS

Medium-sized dogs are great for families or active individuals who enjoy lengthy outdoor trips and active pursuits. Most were bred as working dogs who assisted in herding, hunting, and guarding property. They tend to be very active and robust, so they’re a good choice if you have children. Many medium breeds were bred to do a job, so they’re often intelligent and easy to train. They make excellent dogs for first-time owners. Medium-sized dogs can be further broken down into medium-small, medium, and medium-large dogs, as their sizes and weights vary.   The medium dog breeds are the largest category, and as it comprises so many different breeds and sizes, it’s essential to take temperament, energy levels, and grooming needs into account when choosing a medium breed dog to join your family. Some might be quite laid back and don’t need a lot of space or exercise, while others can be more hyperactive and need extensive exercise and mental stimulation to keep them from becoming unmanageable.  It’s important to do extensive research if you are considering adopting a medium-sized dog. They’re great for participating in canine sports, which will give them all the stimulation they need to be the best dogs they can be.

PROS OF OWNING A MEDIUM BREED DOG

• They are a manageable size, and some temperaments are suited to apartment living.

• They have higher energy levels and are ideal for long walks or canine sports.

• In general, they’re intelligent and easy to train.

• They’re more robust and won’t get hurt as easily.

• They have a fairly long lifespan, between 10 and 12 years.

CONS OF OWNING A MEDIUM BREED

• Higher food costs than small breed dogs—sometimes up to three times more.

• More challenging to transport and take to different places.

• They require more exercise and mental stimulation; this also means a larger area to live in.

• When adopting a medium-sized mixed breed dog, it is often difficult to determine what the dog’s requirements will be.

• When going on holiday, you might require a dog sitter as larger dogs are often not welcome in hotels and guest houses.

• Toys, beds, and apparel are naturally more expensive.

COMMON MEDIUM BREED DOGS

• Beagle

• Labrador Retriever

• Australian Shepard

• Cocker Spaniel

• Border Collie

• Basset Hound

• Staffordshire Bull Terrier

• French Bulldog

• Boston Terrier

FINAL THOUGHTS

Regardless of their size and breed characteristics, every dog is an individual. They all require proper training and socialisation to ensure they maintain an even, steady temperament. Never assume that because a breed is classified as more docile, they won’t be pushed to their limits by rowdy children, overzealous discipline and a lack of structure in your home. With the right approach, any dog you welcome into your home will be a loyal and faithful friend and a pleasure to be around.

Check out our next issue for the low down on large and giant breed dogs.

Your dog enriches your life, so why not return the favour and create an environment that’s safe and stimulating for him to play in?

1. CHOOSE YOUR PLANTS WISELY

Most dogs love to have a good romp in the garden, and this is often at the expense of your gardening efforts. They don’t mean to destroy all your gorgeous flowers and plants, but dogs will be dogs! As an added issue with dogs playing in the garden, there are many plants out there that could make your four-legged friend ill. Here are some tips and tricks to keep your garden dog friendly — and your blood from boiling:

• Create clearly defined paths and areas for your dog to play: Planting low-growing hedges and robust shrubs creates natural paths and dedicated areas your dog wants to play in and enjoy.

• Plant hardy ground cover and sturdy border plants: Adding dog-proof plants like this helps guide your dog to preferable play areas and creates aesthetic variation in your garden. Sturdier options are excellent for protecting your more delicate plants from curious paws.

• Select dog-friendly plants: When it comes to plants, even the most innocuous ones can be dangerous to your dog. Do your research, or get help from your local nursery to choose safe varieties.

• Secure your veggie garden: We’re sure you’ve noticed your dog’s unwavering dedication to obtaining a free snack. Fencing off your veggie garden or getting creative with raised beds and hanging pots is always a good option. That way, your efforts have a considerably better chance of making it to the table.

• Include textural stimulation: Varied textures stimulate your dog’s paws and add to their playtime experience. Consider incorporating a mixture of mowed grass, long grass, pet-friendly artificial grass and hardy ground cover. When opting for long grass areas, check for ticks regularly, and use your preferred tick repellent.

IN THREE EASY STEPS

2. SAFETY FIRST

Dogs are curious, determined, and athletic. They seemingly love to put themselves headlong into dangerous situations. It is always a good idea to clean up your garden to prevent curiosity from getting the better of them. Here are some things to be mindful of when creating a safe space for your canine pal:

• Use non-harmful organic pesticides: Pesty, pestering pests! Yes, we loathe them, too, especially when they decide to snack on our beautiful plants and undermine our efforts to sculpt a gorgeous landscape. Just be careful that your dog doesn’t end up as a casualty of the war on bugs. Stick to non-harmful organic pesticides and diatomaceous earth that will prevent him from getting sick when eating plants or playing in your garden.

• Get creative when dealing with rodents: Rodenticide can have devastating consequences on the ecological environment. There are many ethical options for handling

rodents, including the following:

• Owl boxes: Encourage owls into the area by providing a place for them to live.

• Rat buckets: You can trap rats in buckets and donate them to owl sanctuaries.

• Cats: Assuming your dog doesn’t mind, appoint a resident cat or two to eradicate your rodent problem.

• Clean-up: Make areas where rodents would love to nest or feed your first priority forcing the unwanted pests to move elsewhere.

• Make a safe place for your dog to play: Dogs love to explore their surroundings, and this includes digging and jumping up onto things. Remove secure objects that could injure your pet and cover or fence off your swimming pool. Double-check your garden for debris or glass that may have been dumped or buried in the past, and always secure your perimeter fence to prevent escape into the great wide world.

DOGS AT HOME

3. CREATE A CANINE PLAYGROUND

All dogs, no matter their size, need to play and exercise. Sure, a daily walk will do the trick, but why not take it a step or two further and construct their very own playground. It provides your canine with extra stimulation and exercise and taps into his problem-solving capabilities. The best part is you and he will have extra bonding time in a really fantastic environment.

There’s no need to go OTT when building obstacles for your friend, all you need is a bit of creative ingenuity. Start with these simple obstacles to get your pooch started:

• Hurdles

• Ramps

• Tunnels

• Balancing beams

Once your dog has the hang of it, you can always expand his horizons. Start slow, use positive reinforcement, and scale the playground to your dog’s size and capabilities. If you need more obstacle ideas or want to take it to the next level, visit your local canine agility centre. Who knows, he might be the next canine superstar.

WRAPPING UP

Putting these three simple concepts into practice will not only keep your dog safe in your garden but your garden safe from your dog - perhaps the most important benefit is protecting your dog from a vehement scolding. There’s a passionate and protective gardener in all of us, and the last thing your dog wants is to unleash that person. He will love tackling the obstacles you created for him, all the while showing you who the best boy really is. Enjoy every moment you spend with your pooch in your new dog-friendly garden.

DID YOU KNOW?

Dogs can sniff and breathe at the same time!

Dogs rely a lot on their sense of smell, so needless to say, they sniff a lot. Their noses are designed so smells can remain in their nose while air moves in and out of their lungs, which means they can breathe freely and still work to identify a smell.

RAISED BY DOGS

THE ROLE DOGS PLAY IN CHILD DEVELOPMENT

Children that interact with dogs regularly show significant improvement in their academic, social and personal development. Your child learns valuable life lessons through the simple act of caring for another living being, and they get the stimulation and exercise they need to grow into independent, well-rounded individuals. Dogs don't superficially judge people. They respond well to positive attention. They also just want to have fun and have positive experiences. An influence like this in your child's life will make

TEXT: RHIANNON CECIL

them happier, provide a more positive outlook and encourage them to excel in all areas of their lives, including school.

Ultimately, dogs teach our children so much; a child’s interactions with the family dog are invaluable in nurturing good traits in the child for years to come.

DOGS TEACH RESPONSIBILITY

Owning a dog is one of the best ways to teach a child responsibility. Dogs have requirements that must be planned for and met within a specific time frame. Just like feeding the dog and ensuring his food doesn't run out, academic work requires the same planning and focus on completing tasks. Making this connection is encouraging to a child,

and they are more likely to manage their academic workload when they understand the similarities. Then, ensuring your child is staying on top of feeding, grooming, and exercise teaches time management. They also develop the discipline to take care of tasks that are 'not so nice'. Putting a rule in place, such as "You must finish your homework before you can play with your dog," helps eliminate procrastination and hours in front of the TV. You'll also teach your child to make challenging tasks a priority. Finally, when your child is tasked with the responsibility of feeding your dog and managing the food, they learn to think ahead. Planning for the future is a vital skill, and learning it early can be extremely beneficial.

DOGS ENCOURAGE AN ACTIVE LIFESTYLE

Attending to a dog's physical needs means more time outdoors. Children with dogs tend to be more active, and active children are often more focused. They have calmer minds, so they can concentrate more effectively and for extended periods. Exercise also facilitates mental clarity, so active children generally answer questions faster and with greater insight. Adding alternate physical activities into a child's life limits screen time, and instilling physical activity at an early age forms a habit that's often carried into adulthood.

DOGS INSPIRE CREATIVE THINKING

Taking a dog for a walk is the best way to encourage your child to be outdoors, body moving, and blood flowing. Not only will they benefit from the exercise, but being out in the fresh air and surrounded by nature's wonders will also get their creative juices flowing. There is plenty to see and interact with when walking — trees, rocks, clouds and other people walking their dogs.

Taking the time to play with a dog in the house and garden provides an opportunity for children to get creative in smaller spaces. If the child wants to capture and keep the dog’s attention they have to get inventive. Parents can enhance this experience with a variety of toys, facilitating the use of imagination and encouraging the creation of new games.

Finally, taking care of another living thing also gives children confidence. They become more confident in participating in school activities and more willing to put their ideas forwards.

DOGS ENCOURAGE EMOTIONAL GROWTH

Children caring for dogs will learn responsibility and develop an emotional bond. Caring for their dogs will increase their levels of sympathy and empathy. A dog in the house allows the expression of emotional energy in a space free of judgement. Any child can be completely themselves in the company of a dog. All they will get is love and a platform to find their feet in the world.

DOGS HELP CHILDREN TO RELAX

Although we don't know why dogs help us to relax and lift our spirits, they do. Perhaps it's their unwavering love or their cute and squishy faces. Maybe it has something to do with them always being in a good mood and wanting to have fun. Whatever the reason, relaxation is essential for children to develop healthily.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Dogs are amazing, magical creatures that will show your child the finer, more important aspects of life. They will teach your child about responsibility and caring for others, about having fun, being joyful and prioritising relaxation. Finally, they will teach your child about death and moving past the hurt. Having a dog participating in your child's upbringing will help create a well-rounded human being with the confidence and integrity to tackle anything life throws their way. Perhaps most importantly, your child will make a friend they will remember for the rest of their life.

DID YOU KNOW?

Dachshunds were originally bred to fight badgers.

danger STRANGER

HOW TO TEACH YOUR DOG TO GREET STRANGERS

Does your dog seem unfriendly when meeting unfamiliar people or greeting visitors to your home? If so, the chances are, he’s not actually aggressive but just doesn’t know how to handle the situation. Luckily, there are steps you can take to correct this behaviour and reassure him that there’s no need to be anxious. In this article we have some tips and tricks to make introducing your dog to new people a breeze:

WHY DOES YOUR DOG BEHAVE THE WAY HE DOES?

It’s never a pleasant experience when your dog meets someone new, and he either jumps all over them or barks incessantly, but before you can hope to address this challenge, you need to understand the cause. Let’s explore some of the reasons he might exhibit such behaviour:

• Excitement: If your dog is barking at new faces but wagging his tail and displaying a friendly demeanour, he could just be overcome with excitement to meet a new person or enthusiastic about someone visiting the house.

• Territorial behaviour: Territorial dogs bark to warn invaders away when they feel their territory is threatened. A territorial dog takes his role of guarding his humans and home seriously.

• Fear: Dogs that haven’t been exposed to many new people or have experienced negative exposure to situations often bark, chase or nip. They may also display behaviours on the other end of the spectrum — a timid demeanour and snapping when they feel cornered.

• Lack of socialisation: Dogs without adequate socialisation may display undesirable behaviour when faced with unfamiliar circumstances. They thrive on routine, and it can be challenging to predict how an unsocialised dog will react when faced with a new stimulus.

HOW CAN YOU HELP YOUR DOG BEHAVE MORE APPROPRIATELY?

Once you understand why your dog behaves the way he does and have identified his triggers, you can start to address the unwanted behaviour. It’s important to note that while this behaviour is frustrating and even embarrassing,

your dog isn’t being naughty. He is simply exhibiting his natural behaviours. In his world, these behaviours are acceptable, but teaching him to behave in a human world takes time and more than a little patience.

If your dog’s behaviour concerns you or makes you feel uncomfortable, consult a qualified behaviourist for a professional assessment. Otherwise, try the following techniques.

1. IGNORE UNWANTED BEHAVIOUR

Dogs crave attention, and with this approach, you’ll be looking to teach your dog he won’t get any if he engages in unwanted behaviour. This means no praise or treats — not that you would give him any in this case — but also no communication or pulling on his leash. Any interaction from you might result in your dog misinterpreting the signals, and he could believe he’s behaving the way you want him to.

To make this approach work, you need to have a few willing and well-informed helpers. It is better to practice this technique on your own terms rather than on the unsuspecting public. Here’s how it goes:

• Put your dog’s collar or harness on and secure him on a short leash.

• Ask a friend to approach you but keep a space between you just beyond the reach of the leash.

• Your dog will naturally do what he does. Let him do it, act naturally and don’t interfere.

• Your friend should also ignore his behaviour, not make eye contact, and interact with you as if nothing is happening.

• Once your dog realises that he is not getting the reaction he wants, he may stop and settle down.

• If your dog settles down, your friend may reward him with some praise, a pat or a treat.

• If your dog does not settle down after some time, end the interaction and try again in a few minutes. Chances are that this behaviour is ingrained, and it may take a good few goes before you see improvements. Just be patient.

• Should this technique work for your pooch, you must reinforce the behaviour periodically until it replaces his old reaction.

2. WALK AWAY

If your dog doesn’t understand that barking and jumping on guests is rude, you need to show him his chosen behaviour will result in his exclusion from the festivities. Do this by simply taking your dog and walking away from the new person as soon as he displays this behaviour. Once he is calm, you can try again. Be patient; this may take a few attempts.

SOCIAL ANXIETY

Some dogs are naturally more anxious than others, and it goes without saying that we must never put our dogs in situations that make them very uncomfortable. If you feel your dog’s behaviour around strangers is linked to anxiety, we suggest speaking to a behaviourist as a priority before beginning any of the training outlined here.

Once your dog stops barking and lunging, you can reward him with interaction and give him some positive reinforcement. If he starts misbehaving again, you will need to start the process from the beginning, so he knows he won’t be rewarded until he can complete the interaction without reverting back to the undesired behaviour.

3. DISTRACTION

When your dog is behaving in a manner unbecoming of a good boy, his attention often isn’t on you at all. Distracting him from the new stimulus and getting him focused on you is an excellent way to retrain him and replace unwanted behaviours.

There are several methods to try, as every dog reacts differently to various stimuli. Pushing the right buttons may require a little trial and error, but if it works and your dog focuses on you instead of the new person, reward and praise. To get his attention, the reward you give him must be more enticing than the kick he gets from achieving his objective. You may need to bring out extra special treats for this one.

Try these out to divert his attention:

• Jangling keys

• Snapping your fingers

• Using a clicker

If you have managed to stop your dog from scaring every person they come across, you both deserve a big pat on the back. It’s no easy feat and takes a great deal of patience and determination. If not, be patient and keep trying. Strangers will stop running for the hills in no time.

YOUR DOG STOPPED BARKING AND LUNGING; NOW WHAT?

Congratulations on taking a positive step towards training your dog. You’re starting to speak the same language. It’s time to go a step further and see how far his good manners stretch. The aim of the next step is to have your dog sit and stay politely by your side, with his attention completely fixed on you, waiting for his next instruction. You’ve already done the tricky stuff, so this step should be relatively easy.  Call on your willing helper once again and ask them to walk towards you and greet you. Once you’re face to face, give your dog the ‘sit’ command and have him sit on your left side. Shake hands and continue your conversation. If your dog remains sitting, you can treat him and then ask him to come with you and walk away. If he becomes restless, ignore the behaviour and just walk away and try again. Start with short interactions here and build on these until you can have a conversation with your helper. If you think your dog is up for more of a challenge, ask your friend to interact with him and see if he has the obedience to stay put, not start jumping or getting overexcited. Remember to positively reward your dog at each step to reinforce the good behaviour.

REWARD APPROPRIATELY

It is also important that humans greeting the dog behave appropriately around the dog. Most dogs don’t like somebody close to their face and many do not enjoy being patted on the head. Please make sure that your dog does in fact find the rewards you give him in the training a positive experience, not something he would rather avoid.

FINAL WORDS

Teaching your dog to be obedient is no small task. It’s always best to start in puppyhood, but sometimes, life gets in the way, and we can’t get around to everything in such a short time. It’s never too late to train a dog, and with a little time and patience, your dog will soon be the toast of every gathering. Work together, and you never know what you can achieve.

ZOOMIES

UNDERSTANDING FRENETIC RANDOM ACTIVITY PERIODS (FRAPS)

Zoomies are familiar to most dog owners, but for the benefit of those with more sedate pooches, zoomies are when your dog runs wildly around, zipping back and forth for a few moments. These episodes tend to last for a few minutes at most. These periods have a scientific name – Frenetic Random Activity Periods (FRAPS) - and they are a recognised behaviour in happy dogs.

WHAT CAUSES ZOOMIES?

Zoomies are more common in puppies and young dogs, but they are a great way for any age dog to release pentup energy. Dogs get the zoomies for various reasons:

• They may have an episode if they are highly excited after watching another dog play.

• They may zoom if they have nervous energy after getting through a stressful situation.

• After bathtime, it is common for dogs to embark on a session of the zoomies.

• If the dog hasn't had enough exercise, he may release his pent-up energy through zoomies!

ZOOMIES

Before zoomies hit, dogs often get a slight glint in their eyes. They may start to play-bow at you or other dogs. They then tend to sprint from one place to another, back and forth or spin in circles until they fall over. While this can be a little alarming to witness, zoomies are actually a normal part of happy dog behaviour. As long as your dog is zooming in a safe enough space, there is nothing to worry about - you can sit back and enjoy the spectacle!

NOTE

Zoomies are a natural behaviour, but if they happen very frequently, it might be a good idea to consider if your dog is getting enough exercise and if there are other ways you could help him to release some of his pent-up energy.

NOTE

Try to avoid your dog zooming on slippery surfaces, like hardwood floors. Slipping and sliding on these surfaces at high speed can result in nasty injuries!

Ball play, the seemingly innocent game that so many guardians enjoy playing with their companions, is actually not the harmless activity it appears to be. Although this game seems innocent enough and most dogs love it, the long-term impact of this game is far more negative, than positive.

When one sits and actually watches how your companion partakes in the game, it becomes quite clear that there is daily damage happening as they chase the ball. Most dogs do not slowly lope after the ball, stop, and then pick it up. The game generally consists of a dog charging after a ball, then either slamming on brakes to grab it, or ying up in the air, twisting and turning, to catch the ball. Let’s not even touch on the dangers of the ball throwers or automatic ball launchers… When we think about the shearing and concussive forces this activity exerts on the body, we can start to picture the slow damage that is occurring every time your companion charges after a ball.

damage is chronic and slowly develops

becomes so severe that your companion

You may argue that you have always played ball with your dog and never had them sustain an injury. We would counter this by saying that whilst sudden, traumatic images can absolutely occur whilst playing ball, the majority of damage is chronic and slowly develops over time until one day the damage becomes so severe that your companion appears lame and is no longer able to take part in the game without experiencing pain. The repetitive, explosive nature of this game leads to arthritic changes to the bones, as well as repetitive strain injuries to the soft tissues. The most common injuries caused by ball playing involve the cruciate ligament of the sti e/knee, the iliopsoas muscle, the shoulder joints, and the lumbar spine.

Another unhealthy component to ball play is the obsessive nature that fuels the game. Our companions truly become obsessed and addicted to not only the act of chasing the ball, but to the reward and praise that you give them when they bring it back. The retrieve becomes addictive, often to the guardian too, with both companion and guardian seeming to get lost in this trance of hit, chase, retrieve, reward, and repeat. The combination of adrenaline fuelled addiction and a physical activity creates muscle overload. Muscle overload is the point at which the body is no longer able to regulate its body heat and it is when injuries happen. A great tool to know when your companion is going into overload is to look at the tip of their tongues whilst they are panting. Once the tip of the tongue become wide and starts to curl, the body has gone into overload. Once muscle overload is reached, we enter the injury zone as the body is fatigued and no longer able to protect itself. We do not want to be allowing our companions to enter this state.

that fuels the game. Our companions truly become obsessed and whilst they are panting. Once the tip of the tongue become wide and starts to curl, the body has gone into overload. Once muscle

We understand that many companions, and guardians, derive great joy from this game and that it may be the only form of exercise your companion gets. So, here are a few tips and tricks to make ball play safer for your companion:

1. Try to throw the ball into a shrub or bush so that your companion needs to stop and search for the ball. Searching is one of the greatest stimuli for your companion and they thoroughly enjoy it. By asking your companion to search for a ball, they will be mentally stimulated, which is an excellent form of stimulation and often leads to fatigue long before any form of physical exercise.

2. Another effective technique, which can be used in combination with the one mentioned above, is to only allow your companion to run once the ball has stopped. This will require you to restrain your companion with a harness, throw the ball, then once it has landed and stopped rolling, allow them to run. Preferably, the ball would be thrown into long grass or some form of cover so your companion would need to slow down and then nd the ball.

3. Another fun game is to throw the ball between two people, similar to what is known as ‘Piggy in the Middle’. Your companion can see the ball being thrown and is able to run up and down between the people, but there is no jerking, twisting, or slamming into the ground. To keep this game fair and engaging, be sure to allow your companion to catch the ball every now and then as this will make them feel like they are still a part of the game, and that they actually ‘win’ too.

4. Another technique, which needs to be done correctly to be effective, is to simply roll the ball on the ground towards your companion. Encourage your companion to move away from you, or walk away from your companion and roll the ball back towards them. We do not want the lunging at the ball or slamming on breaks to stop it, so if this starts happening, then you will need to nd a different technique.

5. For those companions who enjoy swimming, one can also incorporate ball play in the swimming pool. Please do exercise caution as swimming requires a great deal of physical strength and stamina, so we need to make sure we do not overdo the swimming part. We must be particularly careful to avoid muscle overload with this technique.

We understand the appeal, and the bond that is formed, whilst playing ball with your companion, but the reward is not worth the damage that is being caused every time the ball is thrown. We hope that some of the tips mentioned above will encourage you to nd a new way to play ball, and that both you and

your companion can nd a way to enjoy the activity together without risking injury.

ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO RYNFIELD

154 President Brand Str, Ryn eld, Benoni

Contact: 083 230 2188

Email: animalhealths@gmail.com

ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO PRETORIA EAST

218 Mark St, Grootfontein County Estates, Pretoria East, Grootfontein Country Estates

Contact: 074 251 4410

Email: ahahpretoria@gmail.com

DID YOU KNOW?

Three dogs survived the sinking of the Titanic in 1912. Two Pomeranians and 1 Pekingese; all were residing in First Class cabins.

GETTING TO THE HEART OF THE PROBLEM

UNDERSTANDING THE CIRCULATORY SYSTEM IN DOGS

Without a beating heart, none of us would get very far and the same is true for canines. Here we look at how the system functions to keep our companions alive, and then consider two of the most common heart diseases that affect dogs – mitral valve disease and dilated cardiomyopathy.

THE CIRCULATORY SYSTEM

All mammals have a similar circulatory system. The heart takes blood rich in oxygen from the lungs and pumps it under pressure through the blood vessels to all areas of the body. The first blood vessels that the oxygenated blood enters from the heart are the arteries. These arteries gradually branch into smaller and smaller arteries (called

arterioles) until they reach tiny capillaries in the tissues. The capillaries reach almost every cell in the body. At the capillary level, nutrients and oxygen are transferred into the cells of the body, and in return, the capillary takes up carbon dioxide and other waste products from the cells. The flow of blood continues from the capillaries to the small veins (venules) and into the larger veins until it reaches the largest vein, the vena cava, and returns to the heart.

The heart then pumps the blood back into the lungs for reoxygenation, and it returns to the heart, ready to start the whole circulatory cycle again.

In a dog at rest, it takes about a minute for all the blood in the body to make this journey.

THE HEART

The heart is made mainly of a specialised type of muscle called the myocardium. This muscle is not under voluntary control, i.e. you don't have to tell your heart to beat in order for it to do so. The muscle cells in the heart are tiny forked cells, and each is connected to the next one by small gaps in the cell membrane. This allows the cells to communicate very quickly and work together in a coordinated fashion.  In terms of anatomy, the heart is divided into four chambers – two atria (upper chambers) and two ventricles (lower chambers) – but the heart is best thought of in two halves. The right half of the heart receives the deoxygenated blood from the body and pumps it to the lungs, and the left side of the heart receives the oxygenated blood from the lungs and pumps it to the body.  This process occurs as follows:

• Deoxygenated blood enters the right atrium of the heart from the body.

• Once filled, the atrium contracts at the same time as the right ventricle beneath it relaxes.

• Blood is pushed down into the right ventricle through a one-way valve called the tricuspid valve.

• Once the ventricle is full, it contracts, creating high pressure that pumps the blood to the lungs for oxygenation.

• At the same time as the right atrium fills with blood, the left atrium fills with oxygenated blood from the lungs.

• As the right atrium contracts, the left atrium also contracts, forcing blood into the left ventricle.

• The right and left ventricles then both contract at the same time, and the left ventricle forces blood out into the arteries to be sent to the rest of the body. Blood does not flow back from the left ventricle into the left atrium due to the presence of the mitral valve. The left ventricle is much thicker and larger than the right side because it has to send the blood much further (i.e. to the whole body, not just the lungs).

HEART OF THE DOG

THE HEART'S ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Throughout the heart are collections of cells that are responsible for the timing of the heartbeat – they are the heart's inbuilt pacemaker. The most important of these are the sino-atrial node which is found in the atria, and the atrioventricular node, which straddles the atria and ventricles. The sino-atrial node has an inbuilt 'countdown' to depolarisation, the name given to the moment the cell electrically signals the muscle cells to contract. Each muscle cell reacts quickly to the electricity by contracting, and the contraction spreads through the muscle cells. In order to ensure that the blood is pushed in the correct direction, extra-fast connections called Purkinje fibres make sure that the cells at the base of the heart receive the message first and so contract first, causing a squeezing action in an upwards direction, pushing blood to the arteries.

HEART DISEASE IN DOGS MITRAL VALVE DISEASE (MVD)

The most common heart disease we find in dogs is called Mitral Valve Degeneration, and it makes up about 75% of clinical cases of heart disease. It is most common in small dogs, particularly Miniature Poodles, Miniature Schnauzers, Cocker Spaniels, Dachshunds, small terriers and Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, and the risk of the disease increases with age. The mitral valve is the one-

way valve between the left atrium and left ventricle, which allows blood to flow from the left atrium to the left ventricle but prevents it from flowing back in the reverse direction, thereby forcing the blood to leave the heart and enter the arteries. Over time the valve can thicken, stiffen, change shape and become leaky so that instead of preventing the backflow of blood when the ventricles contract, a small amount leaks back into the atria. This backflow causes a noise we call a heart murmur.

The problem with this is twofold:

• Firstly, as some blood is lost backwards, instead of entering the arteries, the body receives less oxygen, and the heart compensates for this by beating faster.

• Secondly, as less blood is leaving the heart, lower blood pressure is sensed by the liver and kidneys. In response, the liver releases a protein which goes through a complicated conversion system called the renin-angiotensin-aldosterone system ('RAAS'), eventually causing the kidneys to retain salt to increase the blood pressure. Unfortunately, this system tends to overcompensate, and high blood pressure results causing damage to the heart. Eventually, the heart struggles to cope and damage to the other valves results. The high pressure then backs up into the lungs, causing fluid to build up, at which point the dog is described as being in congestive heart failure.

Cavalier King Charles Spaniels are prone to MVD

SYMPTOMS OF MVD

Symptoms include:

• Increase rate of respiration at rest

• Restlessness, particularly at night

• Coughing and gagging

• Weakness

• Exercise intolerance

• Syncope (fainting)

• Decreased appetite and weight loss

DIAGNOSING MVD

Diagnosis usually occurs because your vet hears a new murmur upon examining your dog. They will then take a blood pressure as a baseline and might advise a chest X-Ray to assess whether or not the heart is enlarged, and an echocardiogram (an ultrasound scan of the heart) to look at the blood flow through the valves. It will also be important to take bloods to assess for damage to other organs.

DILATED CARDIOMYOPATHY (DCM)

DCM is far rarer than MVD but occurs in large breed dogs with a possible genetic component. Commonly affected breeds include Irish Wolfhounds, St Bernards, Afghan Hounds, Great Danes, Dobermans and Boxers. It may also be related to diet, and there has been a recent increase in cases. In DCM, the muscle of the heart is affected directly, and the heart walls become thinner and less able to contract effectively. As the heart doesn't function properly, it doesn't move blood around well, so there is a back-up of blood in the heart and lungs. This causes the heart to attempt to expand to move more blood and compensate, but as the cells aren't functioning correctly, all that happens is the heart dilates – it takes up more space in the chest but has no more pumping power. The thin heart walls also don't conduct electricity normally, so there may be skipped heartbeats, an abnormally fast heart rate, fainting or even sudden death. Ultimately, DCM will cause fluid build-up, and congestive heart failure develops.

SYMPTOMS OF DCM

Symptoms of DCM tend to be less evident than those of MVD but include the following:

• Increase rate of respiration at rest

• Lethargy

• Weakness

• Sleeping more than usual

• Loss of weight

• Collapse

• Respiratory distress

X-Rays of a healthy dog

DIAGNOSING DCM

DCM is often diagnosed in dogs that collapse suddenly. Vets will sometimes hear an arrhythmia on auscultation with the stethoscope. They will also take a blood pressure measurement as a baseline. A chest X-Ray in these dogs will show a very dilated heart (the dog appears to have 'swallowed a basketball'), and an echocardiogram may be carried out to assess the level of muscular functionality. As the arrhythmias in these dogs tend to be episodic, vets may equip the dog with a portable monitor to assess the electrical activity in their heart for a few days. They will then analyse this electrocardiogram (ECG) to assess the severity of the condition and the level of electrical disruption.

SYMPTOMS OF CONGESTIVE HEART FAILURE DEVELOPING FROM MVD OR DCM

• Coughing

• Rapid respiratory rate

• Restlessness which is worse at night

• Open mouth breathing

• Extended neck posture

• Weight loss

• Blueish tint to gums and tongue

• Pitting oedema of the limbs (skin remains dented if you press your fingers into it)

• Pericardial effusion (leakage of fluid into the sac around the heart)

• Abdominal fluid pooling

OTHER CARDIAC DISEASES

Other generally rarer cardiac diseases in dogs include cardiac tumours, pulmonary hypertension and arrhythmias.

COMMON MEDICATIONS PIMOBENDAN

Pimobendan is one of the most commonly prescribed heart medications for canines with both MVD and DCM. It increases the heart's ability to contract effectively, increasing the amount of blood pumped and reducing the backlog of blood that causes high pressure. It also causes blood vessels to dilate, which reduces blood pressure. This reduces the workload for the heart making congestive heart failure much less likely.

ACE INHIBITORS

ACE-Inhibitors such as benazepril and enalapril work to decrease blood pressure. They interrupt the RAAS system by preventing it from creating angiotensin II, a chemical which causes the narrowing of blood vessels. The blood vessels remain open, causing reduced blood pressure and making it easier for the heart to pump.

DID YOU KNOW?

Without the evolution of a pump to improve our circulation, it's unlikely we would have been able to develop to have complex bodies and large brains. The same is true for dogs. In fact, the largest creature alive without the benefit of a heart is a species of jellyfish!

Echocardiogram showing mitral regurgitation in a dog with mitral valve disease.

Furosemide is one of the oldest diuretics but is still one of the most useful. It binds to cells in the kidney, causing them to stop retaining salt and potassium and instead to lose them in urine. Where salt goes, water follows, so water is lost from the body in urine. With less water in the body, the blood pressure is lower, and the fluid is less likely to pool in the lungs and cause the symptoms of congestive heart failure. Spironolactone is another old diuretic that is seeing an increase in popularity. This drug also works on

the kidney but interrupts the RAAS by blocking the effect of aldosterone, thereby reducing the body's ability to reabsorb sodium from the urine, reducing water retention.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE

Cardiac disease is reasonably common in dogs, so being on the lookout for changes in your dog's behaviourparticularly in their respiration rate - is key. If you have any concerns about your dog or suspect cardiac disease, chat with your vet as soon as possible.

Irish Wolfhounds are prone to DCM.

DID YOU KNOW?

Newfoundlands are often used as water-rescue dogs because they have water-resistant coats and webbed feet, so they are excellent at swimming.

PEARLY WHITES

UNDERSTANDING YOUR DOG'S TEETH

Your dog's teeth are remarkable structures. They are incredibly hard and designed to crack through bones and chew through tough meat. Yet, they are also sensitive structures that need our attention to stay healthy.

THE MOUTH

Puppies are born with small, sharp 'milk' teeth that fall out at around 4-5 months of age before being replaced by their adult teeth. The adult teeth, which are usually erupted by six months of age, are much larger. In total, the adult dog has 42 teeth consisting of incisors, canines, premolars and molars.

THE TYPES OF TEETH THE INCISORS

The incisors are the dog's front teeth and include all teeth between the canines on both the upper and lower jaws. They are the smallest of the teeth and are designed for grasping food.

THE CANINES

The canine teeth are the 'fangs'. These teeth are designed for ripping and tearing. Dogs have two upper canines and two lower canines.

THE PREMOLARS

The premolars sit behind the canines; they are the next four teeth on each side, top and bottom. These teeth are used for holding and carrying. When viewed from the side, the upper teeth fit into the gap between the lower teeth and so on.

THE MOLARS

The molars are the final two teeth at the back on the top jaw and the final three on the bottom. The molar teeth are for crushing.

THE TOOTH STRUCTURE

A dog's tooth is made up of several layers. The innermost layer is called the pulp. This layer contains the living part of the tooth – blood, nerves and stem cells are all found here. The pulp is larger in a young animal, and as your dog ages, the outermost layer of cells lays down more and more dentine, reducing the amount of pulp.

The dentine is the next layer of the tooth and is the second hardest material in your dog's body! Unlike more structures in the body, dentine doesn't contain cells; it is just extruded mineral crystals and collagen. Although dentine contains no nerves, it can transmit pain to the pulp.

The outer layer is the enamel – the hardest surface in the canine body. Whilst the dentine and the pulp are present in the entire tooth (both the root and the crown), the enamel only covers the exposed surfaces of the tooth. This means that below the surface of the gum, there is no enamel –instead the tooth contains a layer of cementum, which provides a rough surface to help the tooth connect to the bone of the jaw. The gum connects tightly to the cementum, forming a physical barrier to stop bacteria from entering.

ISSUES WITH THE TEETH GROWTH ISSUES

Some dogs are born with dental or jaw issues, and some dogs develop them. Misaligned jaws, such as those with an under or overbite, can cause dental problems.

Some dogs also don't lose their baby teeth as planned, meaning that these are retained in the mouth. These teeth crowd the newly emerging teeth, meaning that dogs are more likely to get periodontal disease and dental problems later in life.

DAMAGE AND TRAUMA

Dogs of any age can fracture their teeth, especially if they are given bones to chew on or partake in rough play sessions. Various types of fractures can occur, but all are painful as they expose the sensitive pulp. Fractured teeth are also more prone to getting dental abscesses.

INCISORS

CANINES

PREMOLARS

MOLARS

DOG HEALTH ABSCESSES

When the enamel or dentine is damaged, either through fracture or wear and tear, bacteria can get through and cause a painful tooth root abscess. The bacteria travel through the pulp and start an infection, causing the bone to swell – which is extremely painful. Abscesses often appear as a hard lump and are most commonly seen directly under the eye. An X-Ray will show which tooth caused the problem.

PERIODONTAL DISEASE

The most common dental disease in dogs is periodontal disease or periodontitis. Small amounts of bacteria in the mouth form a plaque, a film that's not removed by saliva. Over time, if not removed, this film turns into tartar, or calculus, a hard material. This hard outer casing is dark brown-grey-green in colour, and it traps the bacteria next to the teeth and causes damage. These dogs often get inflamed gums or gingivitis. Over time the bacteria get between the gum and the teeth, burrowing through the periodontal ligament. Once this ligament is damaged, the process is irreversible and the tooth becomes painful and wobbly making it hard for the dog to eat.

PREMOLARS

INCISORS

MOLARS

MOLARS

TREATMENT FOR DENTAL DISEASE

Your vet will need to treat dental disease. In the case of damage, trauma and abscesses, they will assess the extent of the issue and manage it accordingly. This might involve tooth removal, which is commonly done by drilling into the bone of the jaw to loosen the tooth so that it can be removed cleanly. In the case of periodontal disease, your vet will need to give the teeth a professional clean. This includes scaling beneath the gum line. This is uncomfortable for your dog, so he will need a general anaesthetic. In some cases, teeth will need to be removed.

Veterinary dentists can perform specialised procedures, such as root canal treatments, for some conditions, sometimes allowing them to save the tooth.

PREVENTION TOOTHBRUSHING

Brushing the teeth is the best thing you can do to keep your dog's teeth healthy. Brushing removes the plaque before it can harden into tartar and also reduces the bacterial load in your dog's mouth. You should always use dog toothpaste (human toothpaste can contain poisonous ingredients for dogs like xylitol or excess fluoride) and either a dog toothbrush or a soft human toothbrush. Just

as with humans, the goal is to brush twice daily but even once daily will help a lot. If you are just starting brushing teeth for the first time, you should build up slowly to get your dog used to it.

DENTAL CHEWS

Dental chews are very popular, but most of them are not backed by science. They can also be very high in calories!

FOOD AND WATER ADDITIVES

Some dogs really object to having their teeth brushed, so, in these cases, food or water additives may be the best option. Although these are much less effective than brushing, some products do have a small impact.

DIETS

Specialised dental diets are available. These contain ingredients to prevent plaque from hardening into tartar, and some are also designed to break up and clean the teeth while dogs chew them. Diets aren't as successful as brushing, but they can work as part of a strategy or where they are the only option the dog will accept.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Keeping your dog's teeth clean is important for their health and well-being. If you have concerns about your dog's teeth, speak to your vet to get their advice.

A dog displaying signs of periodontal disease with tartar formation and inflamed gums.

Tasty toppers

HOMEMADE DOG GRAVY

Homemade dog gravy makes a great topping for your dog’s food. It’s also a perfect way to encourage picky eaters to eat their meals. Here we give you a basic recipe for homemade dog gravy that is quick and easy to make:

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• 1 tablespoon of coconut oil

• 450g ground chicken, turkey or beef

• ¼ cup of chopped carrots

• ¼ cup of frozen garden peas

• 3 cups of chicken or beef stock (without onions, garlic or salt)

• 2 tablespoons of cornstarch

• ½ cup of cold water

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Melt the coconut oil in a deep frying pan or skillet over medium-high heat

2. Add the ground meat to the pan and cook, making sure to break up the meat until it is brown and crumbled

3. Add stock, carrots and peas to the pan

4. Cover the pan, reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes

5. Mix the cornstarch with the cold water and slowly add this to the gravy while stirring

6. Remove the frying pan from the heat and allow the gravy to cool to room temperature

7. Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend until it is smooth

8. Serve the gravy over your dog’s food

NOTE: The gravy can be served cold, at room temperature or slightly heated.

STORAGE

You can store this gravy in an airtight container in your fridge for up to 7 days. Alternatively, you can put it into freezer bags or an ice cube tray and freeze portions for later.

YOUR DOG QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Please can you give me some tips for training a nervous dog to let you trim their nails at home?

Trimming the nails is always tricky, even with confident pooches. The tail and the feet are two of the most sensitive parts of a dog’s body, so many don’t like to be touched in these areas.

It may take months of perseverance and training but try starting with very gently touching the paw and feeding treats on a regular basis. Very slowly, begin to build this up to holding the toe, lifting it, positioning it for clipping etc. However, if your dog shows signs of stress like lip licking, looking away or panting, go back a

few steps and start to work your way back up again.  Once your dog is more confident and allows you to hold onto the paw comfortably, you can slowly introduce nail clippers. Start by simply laying the nail clippers nearby and feeding treats. After a few weeks of this, progress to touching the nail with the clippers and slowly move towards gripping the nail in the clipper blades. It may take many months before you can apply pressure to the nail with the clippers, especially if your dog has previously experienced a painful nail clip.

If you are still struggling, talk to a registered dog trainer or behaviourist or visit your vet for further assistance.

WHY DO DOGS LOVE PEANUT BUTTER?

It’s difficult to know why dogs love peanut butter so much, but it probably has a lot to do with the high protein content, as well as the natural sodium, sugars and fat. Dogs also tend to ‘eat with their noses’ so perhaps it just smells too good to pass up.

Is peanut butter safe for dogs?

Yes, peanut butter can be an excellent treat for dogs. It can be a really helpful incentive for dogs in training and can be used on a lickimat at bathtime with great success. One just has to be careful with which peanut butter you choose, but provided you opt for an unprocessed peanut butter, your dog can consume it safely.

Peanut butter is roasted peanuts ground into a thick paste, so it should be relatively unprocessed and if you use an unprocessed peanut butter with no added ingredients or a peanut butter made specifically for dogs, you’ll have a great treat for your pooch.

However, unfortunately, many companies include additives in their peanut butter like lots of added salt and sugar, which are not good for our canine companions. More concerning still is the addition of xylitol to some brands of peanut butter; xylitol is toxic to dogs, so feeding peanut butter with xylitol is an absolute no-go.

Peanut butter, in its unprocessed form, is an excellent source of protein, vitamins B3, B6 and E and minerals such as manganese and copper. It also contains antioxidants and reservatrol. The only downsides are that it is very nutrient-dense, high in calories, and contains unbalanced omega oils. This means that it can be given as a treat but only occasionally and never as a meal replacement.

Products we love

PaleoPet Pure THERAWPY Duck, Pear and Ginger Meal for Dogs

This is a power packed and highly palatable product with pear and organic ginger! Pear contains pectin which aids digestion and ginger is not only a digestive aid, but also contains minerals like manganese, which is necessary for cruciate tendon health.

This product is lower in protein, fat and phosphorus than our PaleoPet Pure Classic Complete Meals, and so is ideal for older dogs requiring a bit more fibre and some digestive help, or dogs with liver or kidney issues.

As this product contains only duck protein, it is a great alternative for dogs with chicken allergies.

As with all PaleoPet Pure Complete meals a

healthy dose of Omega 3 from sustainably sourced phytoplankton is added, along with Kelp and Vitamin E.

The PaleoPet Pure range is FSA Food Safety certified and DALRRD registered. All products are produced using human food grade ingredients in an Audited Food Safe Facility.

Available in convenient, pre-frozen 1.5kg and 750g tubs or as a box of 12 individually wrapped 100g patties. The tubs are re-usable, recyclable and PBA-free.

Products can be purchased online at www.paleopetpure.com or at selected retailers.

follow us on Instagram @dogquarterlymag and Facebook dqmagazine

stay tuned for the next issue of