DQ Magazine Issue 5C

Dear readers,

A warm, tail-wagging welcome to our latest edition of DQ Magazine! We are delighted to have you with us as we dive ‘nose first’ into the canine world again this month.

Within these pages, you’ll find lots of canine content. We have insightful articles on dog behaviour, training tips, and health advice, ensuring your companions thrive in every aspect of their lives. From what they like to see on TV to how their gut affects their emotions, we cover it all!

With DQ Magazine, we are striving to create a better world for every wagging tail and his human, so please let us know if there’s anything you would particularly like us to write about or feature in our upcoming editions. We’d love to hear from you, so either DM us on Instagram (@dogquarterlymag ) or write to us at info@dqmagazine.co.za

Thank you for being part of our pack!

Until next time!

and the DQ team

Dr Lizzie Harrison | Editor

IN THIS ISSUE

The Pomeranian

THE LEONINE POCKET ROCKET

TEXT: RHIANNON CECIL

This leonine little pocket rocket may look like a teddy bear, but they pack more punch than you might expect.

POMERANIAN OVERVIEW

The Pomeranian, a small but mighty breed, has been known as the ‘ideal companion’. Their beautiful coats and vivacious personalities have firmly placed them high on the list of the world's most popular toy dogs. Despite their diminutive size – they weigh no more than three kilograms – they have a commanding big-dog demeanour. The wellknown, abundant double coat comes in many colours, patterns, and markings, but the most common colour is orange or red.

Alert and intelligent, Pomeranians are easily trained and make fine watchdogs for families with children old enough to know the difference between a toy dog and a real one. You can exercise these little balls of energy with indoor play and walks. They're content living in both city apartments and suburban homes, as long as their exercise requirements are met. Poms love to learn and master tricks

and games with ease, although their favourite activity is providing laughs and companionship to their beloved human family.

Take a look at these fun Pomeranian facts:  One of the primary reasons so many people adore Poms is their lively and comical temperament. Check out these interesting titbits of Pomeranian general knowledge:

• Poms have been the chosen breed of the rich and famous throughout history. Mozart dedicated an aria to his beloved Pom, Pimperl, and Michelangelo had a Pom by his side while he painted the Sistine Chapel.

• Marie Antoinette, Emile Zola and Charles Darwin were among the many other historical figures who owned Poms.

• Although they're small in stature now, the original Pomeranians were much larger – between 10 and 15 kilograms.

• Pomeranians make wonderful therapy and hearing assistance dogs.

POMERANIAN HISTORY

The Pomeranian is a small dog breed descended from sled dogs of the Arctic. Their name comes from their place of origin, an area in Northeastern Europe known as Pomerania, now part of Poland and West Germany. It was here that they were bred down from their much larger forebears hundreds of years ago. The Pomeranian is also known as the Zwergspitz in some countries.   Their regal bearing and elegant appearance attracted the attention of royals and creatives alike. They were deemed 'fit for a queen' and gained massive popularity thanks to Queen Victoria's love for the breed. She visited

Florence, Italy, and came back an avid fan. The Queen's royal endorsement helped establish Poms as fashionable members of British society. Queen Victoria was an avid breeder and exhibitor of Pomeranians. At the 1891 Crufts dog show, she showed six of her dogs, where one of her favourites, Windsor Marco, won first place. A British historian later wrote, "It would have been a brave judge to have placed Windsor Marco second." When the elderly queen lay on her death bed in 1901, her favourite dog Turi kept watch over her, lying at the foot of her bed until she passed.

LIVING WITH A POMERANIAN

The Pom is a playful, energetic dog that needs lots of stimulation. It should be trained to walk on a leash early on and taught to come when called. Housebreaking can be challenging, so consistency and patience are key. This is an alert, highly intelligent breed that enjoys canine activities like agility, obedience or therapy dog work.

Poms are friendly and love social interaction, especially with their families. Make sure you give your Pom a chance to run and play outside, but keep your yard secure, or he may try and explore, escaping through small gaps in your fencing. If you live in an open area, don't leave your Pom outside unsupervised, as birds of prey might mistake him for a rodent.

Although Poms have a reputation for being picky eaters, a well-balanced diet is important for the breed, as they're prone to obesity. Brush your Pom at least once a week to keep his coat healthy. Pomeranians are an active breed, so pay attention to keeping his nails short too.

Despite their somewhat fragile appearance, Poms are feisty and don't always know their own size. A Pom is likely to take on a much larger dog without proper socialization, so puppy classes in the early days are a must. They're keen watchdogs that take their jobs extremely seriously, and they will alert you at the first sign of suspicious activity, which can be challenging if you live in close proximity to other people.

The other thing to remember about your Pom is that he's determined. If he sets his mind to something, you'll have a hard time convincing him to leave it alone. They have a mind of their own and moments of independence, so it's best to keep your eyes peeled for any signs of mischief.

POMERANIAN HEALTH

Pomeranians are typically healthy dogs with a long life span. They're strong for their size and not as fragile as they may appear. However, ethical breeders check their stock for diseases like hypothyroidism, collapsing tracheas, congestive heart failure, seizures, and alopecia - a disorder where the skin turns black.

Whether you get your Pom from a breeder or a shelter, it's worth having your vet conduct a patella evaluation, cardiac exam and ophthalmologist evaluation. Like all breeds, there are some health conditions to be aware of if you have a Pomeranian, including the following:

• Tracheal collapse: A common problem with small breeds, where the windpipe becomes progressively weaker due

to tight collars or a genetic predisposition.

• Patella luxation: Another toy breed issue, slipping kneecaps is genetic. Check your Pom regularly so you can catch and treat the condition early.

• Cushing's Disease: Adult Poms can be candidates for Cushing's – an overproduction of cortisol. Symptoms include excessive appetite and thirst, bloating and lethargy.

IS A POMERANIAN THE RIGHT DOG FOR YOU?

A Pomeranian might be the right dog for you if:

• You're looking for an alert and intelligent dog to teach tricks.

• You're prepared to socialize a dog from puppyhood.

• You work remotely or have a flexible schedule – these little guys just love being with their people.

• You live in an apartment or have limited space.

• You'll brush your dog at least once a week.

• You love having a dog cuddled up in bed or on the couch with you.

• You want a dog to have a good laugh with.

• You don't mind a little excess shedding.

• You're looking for an alert watchdog with the heart of a lion.

• You're happy with a strong-willed and independent dog who requires a confident and patient owner to provide boundaries.

A Pomeranian might not be the right dog for you if:

• You have small children who may not understand the fragility of a toy breed.

• You don't want to deal with suspicion and yapping when you introduce your dog to strangers – although socialization should solve this challenge.

• You live close to other people who may find barking distracting.

• You don't have the time for regular brushing and combing.

• Your home isn't set up for heavy shedding.

• You spend a lot of time away from home.

• You're looking for an outside dog or a guard dog.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Having a Pom in your home is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Everything about them will melt your heart, from the bright little button eyes, brimming with intelligence, to the sassy attitude and comical antics. When your pom's curly tail wiggles in delight at the sight of you, you'll know you've found your breed and never look back.

He'll have you laughing hysterically at his antics and cuddle up with you when you're sad. His bravery will inspire you as he tackles the world around him. The Pomeranian is a true companion who will keep you guessing, but you'll always have a smile on your face at the end of a long day.

THEIR VIEWING PLEASURE

DID YOU KNOW?

Interestingly, dogs can recognise other dogs on TV by their appearance and body language.

With canine TV channels now in existence, many are questioning whether their dog would enjoy a subscription. Lots of us have observed our dogs staring at the TV, but what exactly are they seeing? Do they enjoy the experience? Should we leave our TV on to keep our dog company when we pop out for a few hours? Here we look to answer these questions and see what role TV can really play in the lives of our canine companions.

WHAT DO DOGS REALLY SEE ON TV?

While dogs can see the images on the TV screen, and may be able to recognise familiar people, animals and objects, they cannot understand them as humans do.

WHY DO SOME DOGS WATCH TV AND OTHERS DON’T?

Some dogs are more attracted to the sounds and movement on TV than others. The interested dogs tend to be dogs that are either curious, social or superreactive to their environment. This means that a dog’s breed, age, personality and past experiences all play a role in determining whether he will enjoy watching TV.

NOTE

If you do leave your TV on for your dog, remember to turn the volume down as his hearing is much more sensitive than yours.

DO DOGS ENJOY TV SHOWS?

For example, a herding dog may react to quick movement on the screen, while an older dog with less energy will likely ignore it.

IS IT WORTH LEAVING THE TV ON FOR MY DOG TO WATCH?

Some dogs may find the presence of the TV soothing when their owners are not home, as the sounds and movement can be quite comforting. However, not all dogs enjoy this stimulation. Observe your dog’s body language. If he reacts to the TV by barking or jumping at the screen, he’s definitely better without it on, but if he relaxes and seems absorbed by the movement on the screen, it could be a great tool to ease boredom.

DO DOGS HAVE A PREFERENCE ABOUT WHAT THEY WATCH?

Creators of dog channels on TV believe that animals and people make good viewing fodder for our canine companions. For some dogs, they suggest more active programming, such as moving balls or action. It really is a matter of what suits each individual!

TAKE HOME MESSAGE

While your dog can’t understand the plot of the show he’s watching, he may be one of those canines that enjoy TV time. Observe his reaction and practice trial and error, or speak to your canine behaviourist to get their input.

MAKING THEMSELVES

HEARD

INTERPRETING VOCALISATIONS IN DOGS

Some of the best-known forms of canine expression are via body language, such as wagging tails and raised hackles. Yet vocalisations can also tell us a lot about what is on our precious pup's mind. Here we look at the primary forms of vocalisation in our canine companions and begin to interpret what they mean.

NOTE

To understand the whole meaning of the vocalisation, you will need to analyse the audio in the context of the visual cues and situation at hand.

CANINE VOCALISATIONS BARKING

You don't need a degree in animal behaviour to know that most dogs' go-to method of communication is the bark. The trickier part is working out what that bark means in a given situation. Just as with a baby's cry, a bark is a good way of getting our attention, but it doesn't express the same thing each time. It could mean everything from 'I'm happy to see you!' to 'There's somebody outside' or 'I can't reach my toy!'. The skill is evaluating what else your dog is doing and where they are doing it. Over time you'll learn to differentiate between Bark One, Bark Two and Bark Three...

GROWLING

Growling is less open to interpretation. Most growls and snarls will mean that your dog feels threatened or annoyed. In this case, they need plenty of space, and you must give them time to re-initiate contact with you. If another dog is causing the problem, offer reassurance before slowly and calmly removing them from the situation or find a

distraction, like walking off in a different direction so they follow you, or throwing their ball. Don't ever get cross or laugh at a dog for growing, as this is their final warning before things escalate to a snap or a bite.

WHINING

The meaning of whining very much depends on the scenario the dog is in, but in the most general terms, it tends to mean, 'I need you to get me something' or 'I'm unhappy'. A dog sitting whining and looking at his empty food bowl is making his desires pretty clear! Dogs that whine a lot when you're not home could be suffering from separation anxiety,

NOTE

Just because growling occurs during play does not mean it is 'harmless' or 'fun'. It probably means you are playing too vigorously or not playing fair, causing your dog to feel frustrated.

TOP TIP

A helpful clue if dealing with an unfamiliar dog is to listen to the bark's pitch: higher yaps indicate excitement or anticipation, whereas low barks suggest fear or approaching danger.

so try to reduce the time they spend alone and explore forms of enrichment such as food-filled toys or leaving on a radio. Whines can also signal pain, particularly when they are combined with panting, yelps or other unusual or defensive behaviours.

HOWLING

The howl tends to either convey very specific information such as 'I'm lonely!' or 'I'm anxious'; be a dog's way of revealing their location to human or canine neighbours, tapping into their primal wolf roots; or be a response to specific auditory stimuli such as sirens, telephones or particular music.

GROANING

Some of our four-legged friends' most human-like vocalisations are the ones where they aren't trying to

communicate anything in particular. You might have heard your pooch utter a groan after settling into his favourite spot for a nap, which is very similar to when we slump on the couch after a long day at work. Alternatively, he might let out a grumpy harrumph at his request for more food being ignored. Ultimately, the groan tends to be pretty non-specific, but if it occurs with other signs and you think your dog may be unwell or sore, it is worth investigating further.

FINAL WORDS

To properly understand what our dog is saying to us, we have to take in what he is saying in the context of what he is doing but provided you spend enough time observing him and looking for clues as to the causes of his vocalisations, you will be fluent in canine conversation in no time at all.

PET HATES

WHAT YOUR DOG WISHES YOU KNEW

There are certain behaviours that we indulge in quite innocently that our dogs find unpleasant and even aversive. In this article, we look at a selection of these areas of miscommunication to help us better manage ourselves around our precious pups.

1. PLAY FAIR

Most dogs love a game of catch or tug of war, and playing with your dog is a vital and enjoyable part of helping them to remain fulfilled and happy. Unfortunately, the temptation to tease a dog can arise during play, and this can have devastating consequences. While to us, the idea of pretending to throw a ball or hiding a favourite toy behind your back may seem like innocent fun, dogs can’t comprehend this concept of teasing like we can. To them, you are being cruel, and consistent teasing can make dogs distrustful and uneasy. In the worst cases, dogs can become aggressive to those who ‘tease’ them.

2. MINIMISE ALONE TIME

Most dog owners have to leave their best friend at home to go to work, but this can cause stress and separation anxiety for our canine companions. They often spend the day longing for us to return, and it is easy for us to fail to see the stress our dog experiences in our absence, as they are so relieved to see us when we walk back into the house. As highly sociable animals, dogs instinctively seek the company of others and require a lot of attention to feel comfortable.

Ideally, leaving your dog alone for longer than four hours should be avoided, but if this is not practical, there are several solutions available that can help alleviate their sense of abandonment. Arranging for them to go to a doggy daycare centre and interact with other dogs is a great option, as is paying a dog walker to come a few times a week to take them out for a stretch while you’re at work. Another potential solution is getting a second pet to keep them company, but this requires a lot of consideration.

4. AVOID HUGS

Dogs do not appreciate hugs. Along with other primates, we often exhibit affection by embracing each other, but this behaviour is not used in the canine world. Indeed, your dog will likely tolerate hugs from you because he knows you, but people who do not know your dog should be advised to stroke or rub your dog’s back instead. This is because dogs can interpret a hug as an attempt to trap them, a sensation that even a human would want to escape from quickly. It is best for your dog if you avoid hugging them entirely, but if you struggle with this, you at least need to make sure that your dog does not have to endure hugs from strangers

5. STICK TO THE RULES

Sometimes it can be fun to bend the rules a little or shake up the structure of our daily lives, but to a dog, a sudden change can be alarming. Letting your dog sleep on the end of the bed one night and then shouting at them the next when they hop up after a muddy walk is unfair and counterproductive. Dogs can’t differentiate between these situations and won’t understand what they have done wrong. Dogs thrive on structure and routine, so always be clear and consistent.

6. LET THEM SNIFF

Allowing your dog to sniff their surroundings is crucial for their well-being. Unlike humans, who rely on sight to navigate the world around us, dogs primarily use their sense of smell to explore. So, in order to keep your dog content and allow them to express their natural instincts, it is important to allow them to properly sniff out their surroundings and the people they meet. Not doing so

prevents them from understanding where they are, who they are with, and what there might be to discover, ultimately preventing them from behaving as they naturally should, which in time, leads to frustration, stress and depression.

7. GIVE A PAT ON THE BACK

Whenever someone greets a dog, their first instinct is to touch or pat them on the face or head, but this is another behaviour humans express that dogs can find unnerving and even threatening. By approaching a dog’s face, you are entering their personal space, which they may find upsetting. If you are not familiar with a dog (and even if you are!), the preferred method of interaction would be a rub on the back.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE

Being conscious of how we behave around our dogs can help them to lead happier and healthier lives. High-stress situations are all too commonly caused by our innocent but ill-informed behaviour being misinterpreted by our dogs. Knowing how our dogs see our world and our interactions with them can only help to make our human existence a little more pleasant for these animals who bring us so much joy!

UNDERSTANDING CANINE

behaviour

STANDING UP

Dog behaviours may not always make sense to us, especially when one behaviour can ultimately have multiple meanings. However, by observing your dog over time, you’ll learn the subtle nuances of each behaviour and begin to interpret what each one means.

In this article, we look at the main reasons your dog may stand up to put his paws on you when you are standing or sitting.

The eight main reasons your dog stands on you:

• Your dog may stand up to catch your attention if you aren’t focused on him or seem distracted while interacting with him. Similarly, if you are asleep in the morning and he’d like you to be awake, interacting and letting him out for his morning ablutions, or he is hungry and you are late to feed him, he may climb on you to alert you to his plight!

• Your dog may stand up because you’ve taught him that this behaviour gets him something he desires, such as attention, treats, or even being picked up. If, for instance, your dog has learnt that standing up on you to beg for food gets him food, he will repeat the behaviour again and again.

• Some dogs stand up because they want to play. Stepping on you and pawing at you, or even play bowing, suggest he wants to engage in a play session.

• Your dog may stand up because he is feeling anxious. New stimuli, such as sights or sounds in his environment, or thunderstorms and other anxiety-provoking events, may cause him to reach out to you to relieve his unease. Similarly, dogs who experience separation anxiety may engage in this behaviour to seek reassurance from you. In this context, the behaviour shows that your dog feels safer with you and therefore wants to be as close to you as possible.

Your dog may also stand on you if he’d like to get up onto your lap to snuggle. This is particularly likely if you are sitting down in a chair and he can’t get up without your assistance.

• Some dogs are very good at communicating that they feel unwell and may stand on you to alert you to their issues.

• Equally, some dogs are very good at reading our scent and body language and detecting that we are, in fact, unwell or upset. This can cause them to stand up on us to get our attention and ‘comfort’ us.

• Some dogs will stand on you to prevent other dogs from getting to you. This tends to be a behaviour of the more protective or resourceguarding types.

HOW TO DISCOURAGE THE BEHAVIOUR

By standing on you, your dog is trying to tell you something. He is NOT trying to be dominant and does not need punishment. Here are the steps to take to resolve this behaviour:

Go to the vet. Take your dog to the vet to ensure nothing is wrong. This is particularly important if this is a new behaviour or has suddenly become more frequent.

Keep to your daily schedule. Most dogs thrive on a routine, so keep regularly scheduled times to feed, play, train, walk and relax so your dog is less anxious about his needs being met as he can predict the next steps. Socialise your dog. Getting your dog used to the sights, sounds and situations that he is likely to experience in life will increase his confidence levels and reduce his anxiety. This socialisation should be done slowly, particularly if your dog is an anxious type, and ideally, you want to involve a canine behaviourist in this process. Redirect to another activity. When your dog stands up on you, rather redirect him to another activity. Ignore the standing and instead look for another behaviour, such as sitting or lying down, that you can praise and reward him for.

• Get professional help. If you’ve tried other methods to stop your dog from standing on you and failed, get the help of a behaviourist or positive reinforcement trainer with experience with the issue.

Your dog may like to stand on you for many reasons. Maintain a routine where your dog receives enough physical and mental exercise, keep him socialised, keep on top of his health, and give him lots of attention, and the behaviour should reduce over time.

DID YOU KNOW?

Sir Isaac Newton, mathematician and physicist (1642-1727), owned a Pom called Diamond. Diamond loved to chew his manuscripts.

BRUSHING LIKE A PRO

Knowing how to brush a dog is an essential part of keeping your dog healthy and happy. As well as helping their coat to look great, brushing removes dead hair, prevents excess shedding, reduces matting and distributes the natural oils found in the skin for optimal health.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU BRUSH YOUR DOG'S HAIR?

Brushing helps to keep your dog's coat and skin as healthy as possible. It also provides valuable time to bond with your canine companion while checking for things like grass seeds in the coat. In colder weather, dogs tend to shed less, so in winter, you might get away with less frequent brushing than in the hotter summer months, but in general terms, you should base the frequency of your dog's brushing schedule on his individual requirements.

Dogs should be matt free at all times, and this does require regular brushing. If we only brush our dogs when severely matted, we will break the hair, which will then matt more rapidly, causing a vicious cycle. So, as a rough guide, a few times a week is a good starting point for most breeds with medium-length hair.

PREPARATION IS KEY

Before you begin brushing your dog, you should set up an environment to keep your dog relaxed and calm while you brush them. You should also consider the surface on which you will brush your dog, making sure it is at a comfortable height and is not too slippery. Using a rubber car mat to stop dogs from slipping around during grooming is a very good idea! Having a wall can also aid in keeping your dog in place during his brushing session. Never leave your dog unattended when on your grooming surface.

PLEASE NOTE

The comb is not for pulling on knots. The comb is for finding the knots so that they can be brushed out with the slicker brush.

The different equipment you might need for brushing your dog includes the following:

• A flexible slicker brush

• A body brush

• A banded comb, where a rubber band is wrapped through the teeth of a medium-spaced comb

• A shine and polish spray for dogs

• Thinning scissors

Remember to make sure all equipment is dogsafe; for example, make sure the teeth on the comb have rounded edges and are not sharp.

HOW TO BRUSH A DOG

When brushing, you can use a bit of pressure over areas when your dog has a layer of fat, and then reduce the pressure over bony areas, going over them more gently, for example, the elbows. You ideally also want to brush a dry dog, so don't try and brush them immediately after a bath. Aside from these general tips, it is important to consider the specific requirements of your dog’s coat type. Read below to find out more:

THE LONG-HAIRED DOG

For long-haired dogs, begin at the feet, using a flexible slicker brush to get through any tangles and then using a wide-toothed comb to go over it and check it is not knotted or matted before moving onto the next few centimetres of hair.

Continue up the leg, then across the body and the head. For any tangled areas of hair that cannot be brushed out, try using thinning scissors to cut into the matted areas. You then comb through these areas and should find the matt has gone, without leaving a noticeable chunk of fur missing.

THE SHORT-HAIRED DOG

For a dog with a short coat, begin by combing over the areas they are likely to shed (i.e. the sides of the body) using a banded comb. After this step, you can take a soft body brush and spray shine and polish spray onto it before brushing it all over the body, all the way down to the feet. This removes any loose hairs and dandruff. Do the same for the head but with a smaller and softer brush.

THE WIRE-HAIRED DOG

You can hand strip (pull out the unattached longer hairs using your fingers) or clip wiry dogs. When brushing them, use a banded comb and be aware that a damp coat will make it easier to remove a lot more fur. Remember, only dead hairs will come out. You can then give them a little shine spray and comb through again before finishing brushing with a polishing brush.

THE DOUBLE-COATED DOG

When brushing a double coat, it is best to start by brushing the undercoat using the flexible slicker brush. Longer double coats may require an undercoat rake to ensure the brush reaches the dog's skin and can get through any tangles. Once you have done this, you can proceed as for a longcoated dog.

THE FLEECY COAT

For poodles, and other similar breeds, you want to begin again at the feet, using a flexible slicker brush to get through any tangles and then using a wide-toothed comb to go over it and check it is not knotted or matted. Each time you complete a section, add a little more hair to the brushing section and keep going. Continue up the leg in this way, then across the body and the head, being aware of the sensitive structures of the face. For any tangled areas of hair that cannot be brushed out, try using thinning scissors to cut the matted area at three levels (close to the skin, a little way from the skin and furthest from the skin). Then comb through the section that has been cut with the thinning scissors. This should remove the matt or knot without leaving a noticeable chunk of fur missing.

TIPPING THE

scales

OBESITY IN DOGS

Obesity is a massive global problem and is the number one health problem faced by pets today.

WHAT IS OBESITY?

Obesity is an accumulation of excess body fat. As extra body fat causes an increase in body weight, weight can be used to determine whether a dog is overweight or obese and is easier than measuring body fat. Using body weight as a guide, dogs are considered overweight when they weigh 10-20% above their ideal body weight. They are considered obese when they weigh more than 20% above their ideal body weight.

Previously, fat was considered relatively inactive tissue, simply storing excess calories and adding to body weight. However, scientific evidence now reveals that fat tissue is biologically active. It secretes inflammatory hormones and creates oxidative stress in the body’s tissue, and this contributes to many diseases. This low-grade inflammation is why obese dogs develop an increased risk for cancer, diabetes mellitus, heart disease, hypertension, osteoarthritis and faster degeneration of affected joints, bladder stones, and anaesthetic complications.

WHAT ARE THE RISKS POSED BY OBESITY?

Obesity shortens a dog’s life and makes them more likely to develop disease. It was always accepted that

heavy dogs lived a shorter life than lean dogs, usually by 6-12 months. But a large lifetime study of Labrador Retrievers has found that being even moderately overweight can reduce a dog's life expectancy by nearly two years compared to their leaner counterparts.

HOW CAN I TELL IF MY DOG IS OBESE?

The very first step in dealing with an overweight or obese dog is to recognise and acknowledge that there is a problem. Unfortunately, we are inundated with images in the media of overweight dogs, making it challenging to understand what normal looks like. Your veterinarian can assist with an assessment. Rib coverage is not only an important measurement to help you identify if your dog is overweight, but it is also easy for you to do at home, on your own. If you hold your hand palm down and feel your knuckles with the flats of the fingers on the opposite hand, this is how your dog’s ribs should feel just behind the shoulder blades. It is also a good measure of weight loss progress between weigh-ins at the vet clinic.

Your veterinary health care team will provide an estimated ideal body weight to use as a target. Still, it is essential that they also do regular body condition assessments to ensure progress is being made toward normal body weight and body condition. Most veterinary practices use a body condition scoring system on a scale of either 1-5 (where 3 is ideal) or 1-9 (where 5 is ideal).

WHAT LEADS TO WEIGHT GAIN?

The following factors can lead to weight gain:

• Activity level: Weight gain most commonly occurs when dogs eat too many calories and don’t exercise enough.

• Age: Older pets are usually less active and need fewer calories.

• Neutering: While it’s the responsible thing to do, the procedure alters pets’ metabolism, making them prone to weight gain.

• Breed: Some breeds are more likely to gain weight, including Labradors, Rottweilers, Beagles, Spaniels, Dachshunds and Pugs.

• Disease: Obesity may be an indicator of other diseases, such as hypothyroidism (an underactive thyroid gland) or Cushing’s disease (overactive adrenal glands).

HOW DO I ADJUST MY DOG’S MEALS TO HELP HIM LOSE WEIGHT?

Once you have identified that your dog is overweight or obese, it is important to adjust his nutritional intake to allow for weight loss using a specific diet, a specific portion, and a specific meal frequency. There are veterinary formulated diets that help with healthy and safe weight reduction in dogs. It is NOT appropriate to simply reduce the volume of a dog’s current food, as this will cause malnourishment over time as the dog will fail to receive the quantity of nutrients he needs.

Feeding a diet with a lower overall calorie density that maintains an appropriate nutrient balance is essential. Your veterinary health care team can help you determine which nutritional products are best for your dog. Once the new food has been selected and the new portions are determined, it is critical that you are consistent with portions and meal frequency, and resist the temptation to provide extra snacks. Treats should make up no more than 10% of your dog’s daily calorie intake.

Regular monthly weigh-ins are important for successful canine weight loss and keep everyone accountable. It is essential to verify weight loss, to ensure that weight loss is neither too rapid nor too slow and to determine when enough weight has been lost.

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN MY DOG REACHES HIS IDEAL WEIGHT?

Once an ideal body weight and condition have been achieved, it is important to maintain that weight. Once again, your vet can help you find appropriate food and portions for weight maintenance.

Portion control is critical at this stage to prevent regaining weight. After so much hard work, a relapse into obesity would be disappointing. Yo-yo weight loss and gain are no healthier for dogs than for humans. The benefits of normalising body weight and condition make the effort well worth it.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE

Rather than putting your pet at risk of obesityrelated diseases, get a professional objective opinion. Take your pet for a weight check today and commit to doing what is best for his health.

Bloat

A TRUE CANINE EMERGENCY

Deep-chested dogs who look slender from above but have a large distance between their backbone and sternum are the most prone to bloat. This means that the top breeds prone to bloat include:

• Great Danes

• Greyhounds

• Boxers

• Weimaraner

• Standard Poodles

• Doberman Pinschers

WHAT IS BLOAT?

Bloat happens when a dog’s stomach fills with gas or food and stretches to the extent that it causes severe pain. When this happens, the stomach bloats but can also twist. When the stomach twists in this way, it pulls the entrance (the cardia) and exit of the stomach (pylorus) around so that the stomach is completely obstructed. Contents like food, gas and fluid cannot move in either direction. Furthermore, the spleen is attached to the stomach via

NOTE

Bloat often occurs in the evening after the dog’s meal. Why this happens is poorly understood.

small blood vessels, which will also twist. This can lead to blood being trapped in the spleen, causing damage.

A twisted stomach is one of the few true canine emergencies that will always require immediate surgical intervention. If surgery is not performed in time, the stomach will rupture.

WHAT FACTORS INCREASE THE RISK OF BLOAT?

Some factors that increase the chance of a dog developing bloat include older age, eating too quickly, exercising soon after eating or having a family history of bloat.

SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF BLOAT

Signs of bloat include the following:

• Your dog’s belly suddenly appears large or feels firm

• Your dog is trying to vomit, but nothing comes out

• Your dog is suddenly restless

• Your dog is in pain

• Your dog salivates heavily

• Your dog has pale gums

If you see any of these signs, you must get your dog to a vet immediately. This will not resolve on its own, and the quicker you get your dog to the vet, the better the prognosis.

NOTE: NEVER assume that because your dog is not one of the breeds listed above, he cannot experience bloat. If you see the signs, assume it is bloat and get him to the vet. Lots of dogs that would be considered to be at very low risk have experienced bloat.

When you get to the vet, you should expect immediate attention. Nothing makes a vet panic quite as much as bloat!

TREATMENT

The team will start by placing an intravenous catheter to give pain medications and fluids, and oxygen (through a mask) to treat shock, if present. They will organise an X-Ray and perhaps an ultrasound to assess the severity of the condition and determine the next steps. If they

see that the stomach has twisted, they will probably trocharise the stomach to relieve the gas distention before heading to theatre. If the stomach is not twisted, just bloated, they will likely administer medications or fluids to reduce the pressure.

SURGERY

During surgery, the stomach will be untwisted and placed back into its normal position. Once replaced, the stomach is sewn to the right side of the body wall. This is called a gastropexy. There are several ways to do this surgery, and each surgeon has their own preference. If the stomach has been twisted for too long, some tissue may have died due to the lack of blood flow, and this dead tissue will require removal. This is called gastrectomy. In rare cases, the blood vessels from the spleen will have twisted so much that the spleen must also be removed (splenectomy).

and other treatments will be administered. Heart arrhythmias are a common complication after the operation, and the vet will monitor for this and treat it as needed. Sometimes, a patient may go home on heart medication, but this is usually discontinued after full recovery.

PROGNOSIS

Previously, most dogs with a twisted stomach secondary to bloat died. Now with rapid identification and treatment, the prognosis is quite good, with up to 80-90% of dogs recovering after surgery. Gastropexy will prevent further twists in 90% of patients. However, because it doesn’t fully prevent recurrence, any dog with a history of bloat should always be monitored for symptoms.

PREVENTION

If you have a large or deep-chested breed, gastropexy, which attaches the stomach to the body wall to prevent it from twisting, is often recommended at the same time as a spay, neuter or other surgical procedure.

nutrition CANINE

IMPORTANT FOR MENTAL HEALTH

TEXT: HANNAH BOTHA, MSC

Over the past few years, more and more research has revealed that gut health plays a vital role in mental health in not only humans but our pets too. Here we look at some of the links and, ultimately, how our dog's mental health can be improved through nutrition.

GUT AND BRAIN COMMUNICATION

In animals and humans, a part of the body's nervous system is located in the gut. This is known as the enteric nervous system (ENS), a network of nerves, neurons and neurotransmitters extending throughout the whole intestine. These neurons and neurotransmitters are of a similar type to those found in the central nervous system, leading some people to term the enteric nervous system as the 'second brain'.

The enteric nervous system is influenced by hormones, the immune system and, crucially, the gut microbiome. Since what animals eat significantly impacts the gut microbiome's health, it makes sense that what your dog eats affects their mental health.

The gut ecosystem and the resulting microbiome are unique to each animal and can be affected by a range of factors such as diet, environment, the use of antibiotics, disease, the animal's age, and genetics. Imbalances in this ecosystem and, therefore, the gut microbes can lead to chronic low-grade inflammation and issues here have been linked not only to disorders of the gut, such as leaky gut syndrome, but also to diseases such as Alzheimer's and Parkinson's disease, in humans.

All of this shows the importance of a healthy, balanced gut microbiome in both gut health, mental health and general physical health, meaning that we need to closely consider our dogs' diets and optimize them to give them the happiest and healthiest lives possible.

HOW CAN YOU IMPROVE YOUR DOG'S GUT HEALTH?

Nutrition plays a vital role in ensuring the gut ecosystem functions optimally. Appropriate nutrition also reduces the risk of dysbiosis (an imbalance of microbial populations in the gut microbiome), which can have health consequences, as described above. Optimal nutrition is best achieved through complete feeds, well-balanced raw food products, and digestive support from elements such as prebiotics, probiotics, postbiotics and antioxidants. Together they work to keep the canine gut healthy.

• Prebiotics: Prebiotics stimulate the growth of healthy bacteria and promote microbial diversity. Prebiotic vegetables include carrots, chicory roots, psyllium, Jerusalem artichoke and apples. These are proven to support intestinal flora. However, not all dogs tolerate fruits and veg well, so always introduce new foods slowly and in small amounts. If your dog cannot cope with these, then supplements are a great way to include these aspects into his diet.

• Probiotics: Probiotics comprise live and/or deactivated bacteria that improve gut health by reducing the 'bad' bacteria population. There is a vast range of probiotic strains, but research has shown particular benefits of two types - lactobacilli and bifidobacteria. For example, lactobacilli and bifidobacteria strains have been demonstrated to improve memory and reduce chronic stress-induced anxiety and depressive behaviour in mice (Xuan Sun et al., 2021 and Yang et al., 2017), but more research is needed in other species.

• Postbiotics: When probiotics break down prebiotics, the metabolites left form what we call postbiotics. Recent research suggests that postbiotics can work as antidepressive agents and thus may provide benefits to animals prone to anxiety or stress. It's thought that they play this role by inhibiting inflammation as well as decreasing cortisol levels (stress hormone) (Chudzik et al, 2021).

• Antioxidants: Our dogs are regularly exposed to free radicals, be this through natural metabolism or external factors like pollution, but excessive amounts can damage cells. Antioxidants work by 'attacking' these free radicals and removing them from the body. Antioxidants include Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Beta Carotene, and Selenium. These can be found in natural foods such as blueberries, carrots, kale and sweet potatoes. Again, always introduce new foods gradually or look for a reputable, research-based company to provide your dog with a full range of antioxidant support.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE

Good nutrition, adequate physical activity, and preventive care are vital to a healthy and happy life for any animal, and with new research, it's becoming increasingly clear that body and brain health are intricately connected, potentially giving diet a therapeutic role in the mental health of our pets.

SASSY TREATED AT ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO FOR MYASTHENIA GRAVIS

Text | Dr Karen Paton

In September 2021, the patient, a nine-year-old Maltese Poodle named Sassy, presented at Animal Health and Hydro with Myasthenia Gravis. According to Mignan. T. (2020) “Myasthenia, a syndrome of impaired neuromuscular transmission, occurs as either an acquired or congenital condition”. In its acquired form, “Myasthenia gravis (MG) is an acquired autoimmune disorder with autoantibodies against the neuromuscular junction (NMJ) of skeletal muscle”, which results in a weakness of the muscles.

According to the patient’s human guardian Sassy had had an episode of paresis the previous year. She was treated with prednisolone and Valium and recovered well. However, as time went on the patient’s human guardian noticed the patient’s hindlimbs splaying. Her gait had become progressively worse and more robot like. Sassy became progressively weaker and started collapsing when she so much as tried to walk.

At the beginning of September 2021 Sassy was referred to a specialist vet with a suspected spinal cord lesion. A Neostigmine test was conducted and Sassy showed a partial response. She was provisionally diagnosed with Myasthenia Gravis and started on Mestinon (1 and ¼ tablets t.i.d). Sassy responded to the treatment and was sent home 4 days later.

At her initial assessment at Animal Health and Hydro, the patient’s guardian reported that she had shown some improvement since she was discharged from hospital but she remained very weak and tired easily. Upon conducting a neurological examination, I found that her hindlimbs are more severely affected than her forelimbs and her left side was worse than her right side. When conducting a test of the spinal reflexes I found normal reflexes in the front limbs, and hyperreflexia (i.e. overexaggerated reflexes) in the hindlimbs.

During an orthopaedic examination Sassy’s forelimbs were found to be mostly normal, and she exhibited no signs of pain. Her passive range of motion was normal and the circumference of both forelimbs was 23cm, which is normal for a Maltese Poodle. However, when examining Sassy’s hindlimbs I found the muscles of the quadriceps to have atrophied; she also had a lower range of flexion on both the stifle and hip joints of the left hindlimb. When examining Sassy’s spine, I

Sassy at Animal Health and Hydro

I concluded that the Myasthenia Gravis (MG) had caused significant muscle weakness and as a result muscle atrophy of the limbs. The hindlimbs were more severely affected than the forelimbs, and the left hind worse than the right. Secondary muscle tension had caused hip and back pain and diminished withdrawal reflexes, poor postural reactions and proprioceptive deficits in the hindlimbs.

The goals of therapy were to reduce atrophy of muscles and to focus on building and maintaining muscle mass, as well as to alleviate pain and secondary muscle tension, to improve proprioception and core stability.

When determining a treatment plan, we needed to be careful not to push Sassy, as we continued to closely monitor her response to the MG medication. As it took Sassy a while to get up and going in the morning and as she appeared to be at her strongest later in the morning, we decided that late morning would be the best time for her rehabilitation appointments.

I decided to use a multi-modal pain management protocol which included Metacam, acupuncture, therapeutic laser and massage to relieve muscle tension. Exercise during her consultations at Animal Health and Hydro included underwater treadmill work. We initially planned to see Sassy twice a week at Animal Health and Hydro. I also put Sassy on a home exercise programme as part of her rehabilitation programme.

The home exercise programme included sensory and tactile stimulation which is important in neurological rehabilitation; this included standing bicycles to improve the range of motion, as these stimulate and thus contribute to the reprogramming of neural pathways; rhythmic stabilisations which promote proprioceptive feedback and help with strengthening; weight shifting exercise; and controlled leash walks.

After a short time, Sassy’s condition started to improve. We did notice increased pain and stiffness the day after therapy, which is normal. Overall, Sassy exhibited less pain and improved mobility and Sassy’s human guardian reduced the volume and frequency of Sassy’s Metacam. With time the exercise related pain and stiffness also started to diminish.

As Sassy started to improve, we added progressions to her home exercise program. We included exercises like cavaletti rails which are used for gait patterning, proprioception, flexibility and coordination, as well as sit to stand exercises which are used for strengthening. Initially Sassy did struggle with these new exercises and was a little uncooperative at first, but this improved with time and “tricks” such as bribing her with ham and having two people present when doing cavaletti rails.

As Sassy’s treatment progressed, we increased the incline and duration of Sassy’s underwater treadmill sessions and we included declines and other underwater treadmill exercises in her programme. We also advanced Sassy’s home exercise programme and included balance exercises and Doggy Dancing which is used to strengthen hindlimb and trunk muscles as well as actively stretch the hip joint.

After 5 weeks of therapy Sassy’s human guardian reported that she was doing very well and was full of energy, playing like a puppy again. Under the supervision of the specialist veterinarian, the guardian had reduced the patient’s Mestinon to 1 tablet t.i.d. Sassy was not stiff nor sore after her sessions. They were continuing with the home exercises and Sassy was enjoying her walks every second day. She could now hold diagonal legs lifts for about 10 seconds and was doggy dancing the length of the owner’s carport three times a day.

After nine visits to Animal Health and Hydro which included pain management, treatment modalities, underwater treadmill exercise and a home exercise programme I found the following results:

Table: Sassy’s fore and hindlimb circumference measurements before and after treatment.

At the end of the nine sessions Sassy was walking well, and her gait was smooth with no circumduction of the hindlimbs. Both myself and Sassy’s guardian were very happy with Sassy’s progress. She had built and maintained muscle mass in the hindlimbs which is visible in the table above. In this case, client compliance was excellent and really helped. Sassy’s guardian was a pleasure to work with; she was willing to bring Sassy in as recommended and did an excellent job with the home exercises.

In conclusion, it is my opinion that Physical Rehabilitation in this case of Myasthenia Gravis has definitely shortened the patient’s recovery period and dramatically improved the patient’s quality of life. The patient is fitter and more active than she has been in over a year (since her previous episode of paresis). It is my belief that without Physical Rehabilitation the patient’s recovery period would have been prolonged and she would have continued to compensate, resulting in secondary muscle tension and pain.

ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO RYNFIELD

154 President Brand Str, Rynfield, Benoni

Contact: 083 230 2188

Email: animalhealths@gmail.com

ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO PRETORIA EAST

218 Mark St, Grootfontein County Estates, Pretoria East, Grootfontein Country Estates

Contact: 074 251 4410

Email: ahahpretoria@gmail.com

YOUR DOG QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Can dogs suffer from seasonal affective disorder?

No studies suggest that dogs can suffer from seasonal affective disorder (SAD). However, like humans, dogs do have a pineal gland in the brain that produces serotonin and, thus, melatonin, the production of which is affected by light, so whilst it seems unlikely that dogs are suffering from SAD, this cannot be ruled out. However, owners have subjectively reported in surveys that they felt their pets became more depressed in winter, sleeping more and being less active. But, this is all anecdotal evidence, and the cause of these observed changes is more likely, instead, to be related to the dogs mirroring our own change in

TOP TIP

Scent or agility work is a great mental and physical stimulant for dogs.

behaviour and mood with the seasons rather than experiencing their own changes.

Dogs are susceptible to our moods, and if we are suffering from seasonal affective disorder or feel down, then this will probably affect our dog’s emotional state. Equally, if we are less active during the winter months, providing our dog with less mental stimulation and exercise, this is also likely to affect their mood.

It is also worth noting that some conditions, such as arthritis, can be more painful in the colder winter months, so the signs seen in our dogs at this time may, in fact, be due to physical issues rather than psychological ones. For this reason, if you do notice that your dog becomes down in the winter months, you should take him to your vet for a full assessment.

To summarise, if your dog is healthy, the changes you see in your dog are more likely due to changes in your routine and behaviour in these months. To reduce the impact of the winter months, we therefore advise:

• Keeping dogs active so that they are physically stimulated. Do not be tempted to forgo daily walks due to bad weather.

• Play games/provide puzzle toys to keep them stimulated mentally.

Many behaviour issues are due to a lack of stimulation, both mentally and physically. For example, most destructive behaviour stems from boredom, so make sure you keep stimulation levels consistent during the winter, and you should have a happy and healthy pooch.

So many of us are guilty of missing the subtle signs of pain that our dogs are giving us. There are no prizes for realising a limping dog is in pain, but many more subtle signs can be difficult to spot. Dogs are highly skilled at disguising pain, so it’s about observing your dog and getting to know them over time to recognise when they are trying to tell you something.

Note: Pain can be both physical and emotional.

SUBTLE SIGNS THAT YOUR DOGS MAY BE IN PAIN INCLUDE:

Chewing and licking paws

Chewing and licking of paws often start if a dog has itchy feet, triggered by environmental factors such as grasses or floor-cleaning products. Some dogs will also chew and lick due to nagging, aching pain from stiff or arthritis joints in their toes or their wrists. Nibbling of the paw pads may be caused by small grazes or splinters that irritate them. In addition to these physical causes, paw licking and chewing can be a compulsive behaviour triggered by stress or anxiety and becomes a learned reaction to a trigger, like being left alone.

yawning is rarely a sign of tiredness in dogs. Very often, it is your dog communicating that he is uncomfortable. He might be in pain, overwhelmed by the situation, or stressed.

Behaviour

Behaviours can change when your dog isn’t feeling well. For instance, he may become snappy or retreat to his own space in a bid to be left alone. He might become less enthusiastic about food and less willing to engage with you. He may also become more vocal and sensitive to environmental noise triggers.

Physical signs

Trembling when it is not cold, panting when it isn’t hot, licking lips outside of meal times and turning the head away are all signs that something isn’t right. Similarly, if your dog has a hunched top line, carries his tail low, has his head down, his ears pinned back, or his eyes wider than normal, you can be pretty certain that he is suffering from some kind of physical or emotional pain. Excessive sleep is also a clear sign that something isn’t right.

If your dog is showing any signs of pain or stress, seek veterinary attention immediately.

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