DQ Magazine Issue 6A

SOUTH AFRICA’S PREMIER DOG MAGAZINE

Hello!

And welcome to a wintery edition of DQ Magazine!

We hope you and your precious pooches are staying warm (and dry!) in this weather.

This month, we have some great features for you including a breed profile of the Samoyed, who is made to function in colder climates, and an article on sport’s specific nutrition for owners making the most of the colder weather to get their exercise fix with their dog. We also look at introducing grooming and bathing to puppies, the ethical dilemmas surrounding crate training and how to bake a salmon frittata for your dog. There’s something for everyone to dive into!

As always, thank you to our advertisers, without whom this magazine wouldn’t be possible and a huge thank you to you, our readers, for your support.

Stay warm!

Until next time

Lizzie and the DQ team

Designer: Anne Royden-Turner

IN THIS ISSUE

The Samoyed

The Arctic explorers

Bathtime

Introducing a new puppy to grooming and bathing

Canine confidence

Cultivating confidence in your companion

Crate training

Ethical or not?

Sport specific nutrition

For your canine athlete

What you need to know

About canine diabetes

Intervertebral disc disease (IVDD) and rehabilitation

Part one

Salmon frittata

Nutritious and delicious!

Rehabilitation

The focus of the Tears team

AskDQ

Your equestrian questions answered

Products we love

Shopping fun

The Samoyed

THE ARCTIC EXPLORERS

With winter settling in across South Africa, we felt it was time to look at the dogs of the colder climates, and what better breed to start with than the Samoyed? The Samoyed is a well-respected member of the working dog group, built to withstand tiring work in some of the coldest climates on earth. This breed has survived through relentless exposure to the cold to remain the smiling, devoted companions we know today.

This bond with humans was borne out of a tight bond formed initially with the breed's original human companions, the Nenets, formerly known as the Samoyede people. These semi-nomadic groups came from the Taimyr Peninsula of Siberia, having emigrated from Asia over 1000 years ago.

The Nenets bred dogs for hard work in some of the earth's coldest habitable places. They lived in tents in brutal conditions, often huddling with their dog packs for warmth during long Arctic nights.

In Nenets' culture, the Samoyed was vital to the everyday life of its people, with tasks ranging from sledging heavy loads to hunting and serving as protective watchdogs. Since Nenets people relied on reindeers as a vital source of food, warmth and clothing, Samoyeds were trusted to hunt them. Capable of sledding a massive one and a half times their weight, there is little the breed didn't do to help the Samoyedic people survive. In time, the Nenets' culture shifted from hunting reindeer to herding them, which meant the Samoyed began to move and protect herds rather than hunting them as prey.

DID YOU KNOW?

Like many other royals, Queen Alexandra (22 January 1901 to 6 May 1910) was a dog enthusiast. She was particularly fond of the Samoyed breed, and as such many present-day English and American Samoyeds are descended from her kennels. The first breed standard for the Samoyed in England was adopted in 1909. The Samoyed Club of America has been the official AKC Parent Club of the Samoyed since 1923.

Despite challenges such as climate change and the search for natural resources, the nomadic traditions live on in smaller groups, with reindeer herding still integral to their way of life. With the help of the Samoyed, the Nenet move thousands of

kilometres across frozen rivers in scarily low temperatures. In the Siberian town of Oymyakon, temperatures of -60 degrees Celsius are typical, and Samoyeds may be spotted sleeping with their tails cushioning their bare noses from the cold.

DID YOU KNOW?

The Samoyed is one of fourteen breeds identified as ancient through DNA analysis of the canine genome. As such, they can give us a good idea about what some of the earliest dogs to exist looked like.

TODAY

Samoyeds have become a popular pet globally, particularly in the USA, England and Russia. The breed is loved for its family-friendly nature and is generally more commonly found than other Spitz-type dogs.

APPEARANCE

The beautiful appearance of the Samoyed has been critical to aiding its traditional roles. A double-layered coat protects from the icy elements whilst cooling the Samoyed from the harsh sun. Their bright white coat has been bleached by the Arctic suns and snows.

DID YOU KNOW?

A Samoyed, called Antarctic Buck, is thought to have been the first to be brought to England.

The head is powerful and wedge-shaped, housing a broad, flat skull and muzzle which is medium in length. It is supported by a strong, arched neck and set on muscular, sloping shoulders.

Their black gums and lips stand out against their white fur. Known as the 'smiling dogs', the Samoyed's enduring smile has a practical function born from evolution: the mouth's upturned corners keep them from drooling,

preventing icicles from forming. The nose is usually black but may be brown or fleshcoloured. The gorgeously dark almond-shaped eyes of the Samoyed are unmistakable: medium to dark brown, they are surrounded by black eye rims and set slanted and well apart. They convey an intelligent and alert expression. The ears are well coated in the beautiful Samoyed hair. They are triangular with slightly rounded tips. Set well apart, they are thick and stand tall above the head in adults.

The back is medium in length, broad in width and very muscular, making the Samoyed hugely strong and athletic. A deep chest houses well-sprung ribs with plenty of room to cushion the heart and lungs. The hindquarters are very muscular with wellangled stifles. When viewed from behind, the legs are straight and parallel. The feet are flat, long, slightly spread and well

feathered by the coat. The soles are also well cushioned with hair.

The beautiful coated tail is long and carried over the back and to the side when alert.

The ideal heights for Samoyeds measure 51-56cm at the shoulder for males and 45-51cm for females.

HEALTH

Despite being a generally healthy breed, the Samoyed is prone to certain health conditions throughout his life. The most common conditions for Samoyeds to develop include obesity, hip dysplasia and gastric dilation.

Obesity can be a significant risk for Samoyeds; it can cause or worsen joint problems, metabolic

and digestive disorders, back pain and heart disease. Keeping the Samoyed at a healthy weight is one of the best ways to prolong their lifespan.

Hip dysplasia is an inherited disease which causes the joints to develop improperly and causes arthritis. As Samoyeds mature, the stiffness in the joints secondary to this

condition may become noticeable. They may be lame or struggle to get up from lying down. This condition requires prompt management.

Gastric dilation or volvulus, also known as bloat, occurs in dogs with deep chests like Samoyeds. When a dog bloats, the stomach twists on itself and fills with gas. The twisting cuts off the blood supply to the stomach and sometimes the spleen, and dogs can die very quickly. Symptoms include retching, restlessness, an enlarged abdomen and laying a prayer position with front feet down and rear end up. If you notice any of these signs, you should seek emergency assistance.

CARING FOR A SAMOYED

Caring for a Samoyed requires lots of effort, particularly with regard to grooming and training. The long coat should be groomed two to three times per week since it sheds heavily. In some seasons, it may be necessary to brush daily!

When it comes to training, it is best to start early. Samoyeds are very clever, which can pose a challenge. Their tendency to become bored and their need for stimulation means training sessions are more effective when they are short, fun and positive. Due to this need for stimulation, Samoyeds tend not to do well if left alone for extended periods and need plenty of attention.

Samoyeds are also very active dogs and need lots of exercise. It really is important to establish whether you can meet the exercise

requirements of these dogs, as obesity significantly shortens their lifespans, and boredom can lead to destruction at home.

In terms of family relationships, Samoyeds are hugely affectionate. They love to be a family member and can be great with children. They tend to be gentle with youngsters and active and enthusiastic with older children. They are not inclined to be either shy or aggressive, and their gentle nature is a massive part of their wonderful personalities.

DID YOU KNOW?

A Samoyed is believed to be the first non-native creature to set foot (or paw) on the South Pole. This is due to a Samoyed being the lead dog on Ronald Amundsen's expedition in 1911.

Having said all of this, one of the most apparent problems for Samoyeds here in South Africa is the temperatures. Many argue that these kinds of dogs should simply not be kept here, while others feel that provided that measures are taken to keep these dogs cool, the breed can still thrive in this climate.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE

These dogs are intelligent, loyal and peopleoriented and can bring us great joy. For centuries they have proven to have a bond with humans almost like no other breed, provisioning critical companionship, strength and love whatever the situation. These special dogs deserve special owners who can give them all the love they need!

Bathtime

INTRODUCING A NEW PUPPY TO GROOMING AND BATHING

Introducing your new puppy to grooming and bathing is all about building their confidence. They need to know that you will handle them gently and that the process won’t hurt. The first experiences with grooming and bathing must be as positive as possible, as they can set a pattern for the future, which may be difficult to correct.

You can begin a gentle grooming routine once your puppy has settled into the household. Start with a soft brush and only brush for a few minutes at a time. With one hand on him for contact, show him the brush and let him sniff and investigate it. Only then can you begin brushing. Give your puppy treats during the brushing process to create a positive experience.

NOTE

If your puppy bites the brush, ignore them, wait for them to stop and then give them a treat when you are brushing them normally again. Try not to pull the brush away when your puppy bites, as this can make the activity into a game for your youngster.

Once the puppy is used to the action of being brushed, you can increase the length of the session and then introduce a brush and comb that suits their type of coat. As his confidence grows, you can start a more in-depth grooming routine.

NOTE: Many dogs resist having their legs and feet brushed, so get your puppy used to these areas being handled by going over the legs and feet with just your hands before introducing the brush. Other tricky areas include the tummy, behind the ear and in the armpits. If your puppy is sensitive in these areas, start with your hand and then move on to the brush.

BATHTIME

Bathing again requires small steps to create confidence and a feeling of safety. If your puppy is small, consider using a large container, perhaps a baby bath or a large hand wash basin. If you have a larger breed, then you will probably need to use the bath, so put a nonslip mat in the base. Ideally, work with a second person to keep the dog in place.

NOTE

Try to avoid getting water in the ear canal by placing your thumb across the opening when applying water to the area. This shouldn’t be such an issue if your puppy has droopy ears as the ears tend to keep the ear canal covered.

Initially, let the water touch your dog’s feet so they understand that water is involved in the process. If they tolerate this easily, you can move on to the next step, but you may need to put your dog in the container or bath and just let them stand in the water for the first few times. You can give treats during this part of the process to build their confidence.

The next step is to use a jug to pour warm water over the coat. Start this process away from the face and gradually work towards the head. We would not recommend using the shower head as a starting point, as many dogs find this frightening. A jug is a much less intimidating way to build your new puppy’s confidence in handling bathing.

Only introduce shampoo on your puppy’s second or third introduction to the bath to avoid complete sensory overwhelm. After applying the shampoo, again starting away from the face, ensure you rinse it all out. The face can be washed with shampoo on a facecloth. Once your puppy is very comfortable with this process, you can progress to using the shower head (again taking small steps), but always be careful to avoid getting shampoo in the eyes. If you do, rinse the eyes clean with water.

FINAL THOUGHTS

These ‘firsts’ can be traumatic for puppies if not introduced slowly and carefully. Taking the time when your puppy is young to familiarise them with bathing and grooming in a positive way is the best way to set them up for a future of easy handling.

CANINE CONFIDE NCE

CULTIVATING CONFIDENCE IN YOUR COMPANION

Every owner wants their dog to be confident and happy, but sometimes that goal can seem elusive. The good news is that there is a considerable amount we can do to improve our dog’s confidence and calmness in new situations.

Just like humans, some dogs are born confident, while others are more shy by nature, and some breeds are naturally more confident or sensitive than others. Life experiences can then alter this natural tendency or accentuate elements of it. It is our job to do our part to work with the inbuilt tendencies along with the life experiences that have gone before to help our dogs feel the best they can in their own skin.

HERE ARE OUR TEN TIPS FOR CREATING A CONFIDENT DOG:

1. Choose your puppy carefully. If you are at the puppy-buying stage, then make sure you choose an ethical and reliable breeder. Good breeders will take the time to build the confidence of the puppies in their care, by making sure vet appointments are kept as relaxed as possible, getting them used to the sound of TV and radio, and letting them play on different indoor and out. When you choose your puppy, you then need to continue the good

2. If you are taking on an older dog who may already have had bad experiences, the experience is just the same as with a puppy but much, much slower. First, the dog must learn to trust your support and protection, which can take a long time, especially for sensitive dogs.

Secondly, we need to accept that some fears will not be fixable. During puppyhood, there are several natural developmental fear stages, which are biological and can’t be avoided. They exist as evolution’s way of preventing growing puppies from becoming too adventurous and getting themselves into trouble. If a dog suffers trauma during one of these phases, he may always be nervous in that specific situation, and as owners of older dogs, we need to respect that. Trying to push him through his fear or ‘fix him’ merely shows him that you don’t understand his point of view, which can lose all the trust you have built in the first place. Instead, if you acknowledge his concern and take him out of that situation, he will grow in confidence over time. You may not have to do much; it is often enough to step between your dog and the scary item or person or walk a short distance away, even turning back if that is the best option. If you do this, you show your dog that you can deal with whatever he is afraid of and that you will protect him.

3. A lack of confidence can show up in very different ways, but we need to be willing to handle any of them. One dog may pull towards something he is afraid of, with his hackles up and barking, while another may cower and hide behind your legs. Both dogs are equally fearful but just display the emotion differently. Your response, therefore, has to be the same in both situations; you need to go a suitable distance away from the scary situation and keep your body between your dog and the item he fears. There is no need to use your voice, as this can just add pressure. Stand tall and act with confidence; dogs naturally assess our body language and often prefer it to our speech. Taking charge of the situation will show your dog that they can rely on you.

4. Many dogs enjoy trying something new, but some will hang back tentatively. If your dog doesn’t want to engage in a new activity, stay with them and allow them to watch from a distance. Let them see what is going on, but don’t let them become overwhelmed by the newness of the situation. If you give your dog time, he may become curious and want to go and check it out for himself, but if he doesn’t, that’s also okay, and you should respect his decision. Giving him time shows him that you are aware of his feelings, which builds his trust in you.

5. Building confidence is a slow process. Once your dog is comfortable in a certain scenario, you can start to add new elements and see how he tolerates them. If he is unhappy, take his feedback on board and remove the new element, but if he seems not to notice the new challenge, then keep going. Over time, you will expand your dog’s comfort zone. The key here is that the second your dog is unhappy, you take a step back in the process. It is never worth ‘pushing through’. It might feel frustratingly slow, to begin with, but by showing your dog you are listening, you are allowing the process to move much more rapidly further down the line.

6. To help your dog grow in confidence, explain what you need him to do in small steps with lots of positive reinforcement. Reward every single response you want, and make sure you use rewards your dog enjoys. Never punish a dog for getting something wrong.

7. In training situations, always end your sessions on a good note, even if it means returning to a previous exercise that your dog understands well. Never leave a training session on a ‘failure’.

8. Celebrate small successes and displays of bravery. If your dog willingly goes past something he is afraid of or shows greater confidence than normal in a situation, give him lots of attention. If he knows how well he has done, he’ll gain even more confidence.

10. Confident owners create confident dogs. Any work you do to build your own confidence will help your dog feel more confident too. Be kind to yourself, and do not set impossible tasks. It’s perfectly okay to avoid places or activities that you simply find more challenging.

CRATE TRAINING

ETHICAL OR NOT?

Crate training has become a popular method of managing dogs, but it is certainly not without controversy. Some people argue that it is cruel to keep dogs in crates, while others believe it is the most effective way to keep dogs safe and prevent destructive behaviour.

Here, we explore crate training for dogs drawing evidence from expert sources to try and understand a little more about the pros and cons.

WHAT IS CRATE TRAINING?

Crate training involves confining a dog or puppy to a crate, which is usually made of wire or plastic. The crate is used as a safe and comfortable place for the dog to sleep and rest, as well as a means of keeping the dog confined when necessary.

HOW DO YOU CRATE TRAIN A PUPPY OR DOG?

To crate train a puppy or dog, you should start by introducing the crate to your dog as a positive and comfortable area. Gradually, your dog will learn to associate the crate with safety and security, and it will become a place where they can relax and feel at ease.

Over time, you can increase the amount of time your dog spends in the crate.

WHY CRATE TRAIN?

There are a few reasons why people crate train their puppies. One reason is to house train the dog, as dogs are less likely to soil their sleeping area than other areas of the house. Another reason is to provide a safe space for the dog during stressful situations or busy periods in the home.

The most common reason is usually to keep the dog safe and prevent destructive behaviour when the owner is not home.

Another is to confine a dog during illness or injury recovery.

Crating can also be used as a means of transport, for attending vet appointments, or even for taking flights, as many airlines require dogs to be crated when travelling.

IS IT ETHICAL TO CRATE?

The ethics of crate training for dogs is a controversial issue. Some people believe it is cruel to confine dogs to a crate, while others believe it is a necessary and humane means of keeping dogs safe.

One of the key points to consider here around the issue greatly depend on practised. For instance, a dog left in a crate for brief periods to minimise stressful interactions is in a totally different situation to a dog left in a crate for hour after hour while their humans are busy at work.

Most of us would agree that the former isn’t cruel, but the latter almost certainly is.

WHY DO SOME PUPPIES OR OLDER DOGS DISLIKE BEING CRATED, AND IS IT SOMETHING THAT CAN BE FIXED?

Some puppies or older dogs may dislike being crated because they associate the crate with punishment or confinement. This can be remedied by introducing the crate very gradually and associating it with positive experiences, such as treats or toys.

It is important to remember, however, that not all dogs will take crate training, and it is not appropriate for every dog. For some dogs, crate training induces anxiety and stress, as it prevents them from engaging in natural behaviours like roaming and exploring, and for these dogs, it is unlikely that any amount of positive reinforcement will fix the issue.

WHAT DO EXPERTS SAY FOR AND AGAINST DOG CRATE TRAINING?

Experts are divided on the issue of dog crate training. Some experts believe it can be a useful and humane means of confinement, while others believe it is unnecessary and potentially harmful.

Ultimately, the decision to crate train a puppy or dog needs to be made on a case-by-case basis. There is no onesize-fits-all answer.

DID YOU KNOW?

King Charles's favourite type of dog is the Jack Russell and he has two rescue JRTs called Beth and Bluebell.

Sportspecific

NUTRITION

FOR YOUR CANINE ATHLETE

In canine sports, there are almost as many events as there are breeds!

Dogs may compete from the recreational level right through to the elite level in sports such as agility, flyball, frisbee, canicross and sheepdog trials or may work as service dogs or herding dogs. The list is endless.

At all levels, athletic performance depends on breed, genetics, training and nutrition. If the dog is in a sport that suits their breed and has the appropriate training, the winning margins within a competition may in fact be small. What can really give the winning edge is sport-specific nutrition.

CANINE ENERGY USE

Before looking at sport-specific nutrition one needs to understand the three systems that dogs draw on for energy:

• Immediate energy for 5-20 seconds, which comes from burning adenosine triphosphate (ATP).

• Glycolytic energy for 20-120 seconds, which involves the anaerobic breakdown of glucose.

• Oxidative metabolism, which starts after about two minutes of exertion. This system is the most efficient and can use various energy sources (fat, carbohydrates and protein).

Each of these systems is relevant and plays a role, but the dominant system depends on the type of exercise the dog performs.

SPORT-SPECIFIC NUTRITION

When planning how best to support the nutritional needs of the sporting dog, the B-FIT principle is an excellent place to start. Considering these elements allows the development of a sports-specific diet that will support the demands of training and allow the dog to perform at their best on competition days.

B Breed of the dog

F Frequency of exercise (how often over a week or month the dog trains or competes)

I Intensity of exercise

T Type of exercise

THE INTENSITY AND TYPE OF EXERCISE

The type and intensity of exercise determine the energy and nutrient requirements of the canine athlete because they dictate what the main source of fuel for the working muscles will be.

High-intensity exercise, such as sprinting. This type of exercise uses glycolytic energy to supply working muscles with energy. This may be supported by the inclusion of highcarbohydrate foods straight after exercise.

Endurance exercise. This takes place at low to moderate-intensity exercise levels for several hours. It relies on aerobic metabolism, where fat is broken down into free fatty acids as a source of energy for the working muscles. An example of this is sledge dog racing.

Intermediate exercise. This can be a mixture of low to moderate-intensity exercise (aerobic) and may include some bouts of high-intensity work (anaerobic). Both fats and carbohydrates are, therefore crucial for this type of exercise.

Dog sports such as agility, frisbee, canicross and field trials fall into this group.

Matching the food and feeding methods to the type and intensity of activity enhances performance, so providing the right amount of energy from the correct source is important. Whether the preferred energy source is carbohydrate or fat depends on the exercise type. Sprints depend on carbohydrates as fuel; endurance exercise needs fat as fuel; and intermediate sports need carbohydrates and fat as fuel.

HIGH-INTENSITY EXERCISE

Sprinters need diets heavier in carbohydrates and slightly lighter in fats. For them, 40-50% carbohydrates (dry matter basis) and 12-17% fat are appropriate, with 300-400 calories per cup of food. These dogs should have small meals the day before an event and receive carbohydrates post-exercise, especially if they do multiple short events in one day.

ENDURANCE EXERCISE

As the distance and duration of exercise increase, dogs use fat as an aerobic fuel source, and fat has the most profound effect on increasing stamina in dogs.

While burning fat, an endurance dog holds off on using up muscle glycogen, which delays fatigue. Incidentally, using fat for energy is metabolically “cooler” than using protein. Keeping body temperatures from rising is a plus for dogs doing endurance events.

For true endurance dogs, then, a diet high in fat is important. Up to 35% of the diet (dry matter basis) should be fat, with 500-600 calories per cup of food. These dogs do not need this kind of food all year, however. During their off-season, the intense diet can taper down. Then, as competition season approaches and training increases, food should be shifted to a high-fat diet. Four to six weeks is a good timeline for acclimating a dog’s body to the working diet.

DID YOU KNOW?

It is worth considering that ambient temperatures may increase overall energy requirements by 1.5-2.5 times, while cold weather may increase requirements by a further 50%.

INTERMEDIATE EXERCISE

Higher fat diets are recommended because they supply the right amount and type of energy. They are also highly palatable and digestible, which can be very helpful as fatigue and even mild dehydration may reduce appetite during and after exercise.

What is interesting is that dogs, unlike human athletes, rely on free-fatty acids for

energy generation at all exercise intensities. It, therefore, follows that the training diet should have a higher percentage of fat compared to periods when the dog is less active. Studies have shown that feeding a high-fat diet to sporting dogs allows their muscles to use fatty acids earlier in the bout of exercise, which has a glycogen-sparing effect – leaving the glycogen for the times it is needed during high-intensity work.

NUTRITIONAL STRATEGIES

Once the sports-specific diet is formulated, nutritional strategies further enhance performance. These strategies depend on the type of exercise performed and include pre and post-exercise nutrition, additional fat as supplements, antioxidants, the timing of meals, and addressing fluid balance to avoid even mild dehydration.

PRE- AND POST-EVENT CARBOHYDRATE

In sports such as agility, many people question whether it would be worth providing additional carbohydrates before and after exercise to boost muscle stores. We know from human studies that the amount of carbohydrates stored in muscles is a key factor in delaying the onset of fatigue. For this reason, many human athletes undertake a period of carbohydrate loading before an event, where they increase the carbohydrate content of their diet while resting from training for a day or so. This allows their muscles to ‘super-

compensate’ with glycogen allowing them to exercise for longer before fatigue sets in, thereby enhancing performance.

However, this is not the case for dogs.

Research suggests that the ability to use fatty acids as fuel is more important for dogs than being able to draw on muscle glycogen. Studies have also shown that carbohydrate loading in dogs may actually cause a form of exertional rhabdomyolysis related to the rapid anaerobic metabolism of muscle glycogen. This leads to the accumulation of lactic acid, which results in fatigue and reduced performance.

Human athletes involved in successive training sessions or repeated bouts of competition may suffer from glycogen depletion in muscles, leading to fatigue and loss of performance. While this is less pronounced in dogs, canine athletes involved in multi-day events will deplete the carbohydrate stored in their muscles. We know that a particular enzyme called glycogen synthase, which produces glycogen is at its most active in the two hours immediately following exercise. Therefore, if a carbohydrate snack is given within this window, the enzyme will be working at its most rapid rate to convert the carbohydrate into glycogen to be stored in the muscle. This is particularly helpful for athletic events which take place over a few days.

Therefore, if dogs are fed most of their calories as fat, a carbohydrate supplement immediately after exercise can increase glycogen refuelling and may enhance performance. Carbohydrates in the form of a powder added to water can be used, or a small portion of high carbohydrate low-fat dog food as an alternative.

ADDITIONAL FAT TO BOOST PERFORMANCE

To increase the fatty acid content of the diet, fat can be added in the form of unsaturated oil. This can help give a boost of fat when needed without feeding added bulk. It is worth noting that oils such as coconut oil, commonly recommended for sporting dogs, are very high in saturated fat, and unsaturated oil may be a better choice.

ANTIOXIDANTS TO SUPPORT ATHLETIC PERFORMANCE

Strenuous exercise can lead to oxidative damage of the cells and tissues, and the highfat diet fed to canine athletes may put them at increased risk. Studies which have looked at the antioxidant properties of fruit and vegetables have shown that exercising dogs may benefit from a diet containing an increased level of antioxidant nutrients to counteract the effect of

strenuous exercise. Berry fruits are an excellent source, and the frozen varieties can be kept in the freezer, ready to add to a meal or into recipes.

THE TIMING OF MEALS

Once the amount of food has been determined, working out the time that a meal is given relative to exercise is essential. A feeding schedule could look something like this:

DID YOU KNOW?

In one study published in the Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association, Beagles fed a high-fat diet were not exhausted until after 20 miles. When the dogs were fed a lower-fat diet, however, they were exhausted by 15 miles.

• Feed the main meal of the day after exercise or four hours before if this is not practical.

• If possible, feed at least two to three meals per day. One of these meals could be 1.5-2 hours before the activity.

• Feed a carbohydrate food immediately after work involving multiple sprints. The rate of glycogen refuelling is doubled in the first two hours after exercise.

• Feed a meal within two hours post-exercise.

• Feed small amounts of food during exercise.

• Begin a new food at least six weeks before the competition season begins.

FLUID BALANCE

The only way to truly know how much water the dog loses during training is to measure their weight before and after the session. Even mild dehydration of only 2-3% weight loss following exercise is associated with up to 30% loss of performance. Water loss can be significantly more than this, depending on the environmental conditions.

Weight loss corresponds to the volume of fluid lost in that session. We can work this out as a percentage of the body weight and should aim to keep it below 2%.

For example, if weight after exercise has gone down by 600g, this means that 600mls will be needed to support this exercise. It can be added before, during (if possible) and after in small amounts. It is vital to get it right in training so that you are not experimenting during competition.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Overall, the ultimate goals of performance nutrition for the canine athlete are to maintain an optimum body condition, support performance and prevent fatigue and injury. Supporting high-quality training is the key factor. If the dog is adequately fueled for training and refuelled afterwards, then their training session will be of the highest quality and the dog will compete fully prepared. A sportsspecific diet, coupled with nutritional strategies may just give your canine sporting partner the winning edge.

SENIOR DOGS

If your dog is a senior athlete, you must be sure to provide plenty of high-quality protein. Dogs tend to lose muscle mass as they age. The exception to feeding extra protein would be for a dog with other health problems, such as liver or kidney ailments, where extra protein would be detrimental.  Senior canines, whether performance dogs or not, also benefit from joint supplements and omega-3 fatty acid supplements.

DIGITAL PADS METACARPAL PAD

ANATOMY OF A DOG PAW

NAILS

DIGITAL PAD CARPAL PAD

FORELIMB HINDLIMB

DIGITAL PADS METACARPAL PAD

Canine diabetes is on the rise and is now one of the most common hormone-based diseases in dogs. Diabetes means your dog will have problems with blood sugar levels, and these levels have significant implications for their health.

Canine diabetes is the same as Type 1 Diabetes in humans, meaning there is an inability of the body to produce insulin. Type II Diabetes in dogs is extremely rare. This occurs when insufficient insulin is produced or the body cannot use what is produced.

UNDERSTANDING DIABETES

After eating, food gets broken down into products that the body can use. Carbohydrates are broken down into glucose, and the glucose is absorbed into the bloodstream from the digestive system. This glucose is then transported around the body. In response to the glucose, the pancreas releases insulin. Insulin is a hormone, and it acts as a key, letting glucose into cells. Cells then use glucose for energy.

If insulin is absent, the cell does not take up the glucose, and the glucose stays in the bloodstream. The glucose levels continue to rise

in the blood, which harms your dog’s health. This is called hyperglycaemia (hyper = high, glyc = glucose, aemia = blood). The will also be no energy for the cells of your dog’s body to function normally.

High glucose levels in the blood are, in a sense, poisonous to your dog, causing damage to many organs such as the kidneys, the heart and the eyes. Meanwhile, a lack of energy for cells results in the breakdown of body fats and proteins as an alternative energy source. When fats are broken down, they produce something known as ketones. A build-up of ketones within your dog will disrupt the pH balance causing their blood to become acidic. If this happens, the dog will become very unwell and needs immediate attention.

DID YOU KNOW?

A recent study revealed that the most commonly diagnosed breed is the Labrador, followed by the King Charles Spaniel, Husky and Miniature Schnauzer.

CAUSES

Diabetes occurs when there is damage to the insulin-producing cells of the pancreas. These cells are called beta-cells and comprise less than 5% of the pancreas. The damage to these cells leads to a lack of insulin production. Both inflammation and infection can cause damage to the pancreas.

Weight has less of a role to play in developing diabetes in dogs. However, excessive amounts of fat can negatively impact the way insulin is used.

Some risk factors include:

• Age – middle-aged dogs are most likely to develop the condition.

• Gender – female dogs are affected twice as often as males.

• Certain breeds – certain breeds are affected more than others suggesting a genetic component. These breeds include:

• Cocker Spaniels

• Dachshunds

• Doberman Pinschers

• German Shepherds

• Golden Retrievers

• Husky

• King Charles Spaniel

• Labrador Retrievers

• Pomeranians

• Terriers

• Toy poodles

• Miniature Schnauzers

• Keeshonden

• Samoyeds

• Being overweight – whilst obesity is generally not a direct cause of diabetes, it can worsen the situation.

• Having recurrent pancreatitis.

• Being an unspayed female due to the fluctuating hormone levels.

• Taking certain medications, such as steroids and progestogens, for a prolonged period.

to be constantly hungry, as their energy needs are not being met by glucose. Despite this increased hunger, however, the dog is likely to lose weight as he is breaking down body tissues to provide alternative energy for his cells. This leads to muscle wasting as well as weight loss. Over time the dog becomes weaker and weaker and more and more lethargic.

Chat with your vet immediately if you see any of the abovementioned signs. The vet will conduct a thorough medical history, physical examination, bloods and urinalysis to diagnose canine diabetes. These tests can determine whether your dog has diabetes and, if they have it, its severity.

DID YOU KNOW?

Most dogs are between the ages of seven and ten when they are diagnosed with diabetes.

TREATMENT

In both humans and dogs, the aim of diabetic treatment is management. The condition cannot be cured, but your dog can lead a happy and healthy life with good management.

The goal is to make the dog’s blood sugar levels as normal and consistent as possible, with fewer dips and peaks. This helps lower the risk of your dog experiencing the most severe consequences of diabetes, such as blindness and kidney failure.

Treatment of diabetes will require daily injections of insulin. It is essential to manage your dog at a healthy weight, too, as this will impact the effect of insulin. If a female dog has been diagnosed with diabetes and has not been spayed, you will be advised to book her in for surgery to have her spayed. This is because the fluctuating hormones of her cycle will impact the diabetes, and it is more challenging to stabilise her while this continues.

Dog’s insulin needs can differ, so your vet might try giving your dog different types, doses and frequencies of insulin until the diabetes is well managed. The handling, storage and administration of insulin are different for each type of medicine, and your vet will help you to understand what is best for your pet. Most pet parents get used to managing diabetes much quicker than they expect.

NOTE: It will be necessary to follow a strict routine to manage diabetes. Your dog will need to be fed the same food, weighed each time, and fed at the same time each day. Your dog’s body will get used to this routine, which will help stabilise them.

MONITORING DIABETES

Once your dog starts treatment, you will need to take them for regular visits to evaluate their blood glucose levels. These visits are usually most frequent immediately after diagnosis to ensure the insulin dose is correct, but will also be necessary long-term to ensure the diabetes remains well managed.

MEDICAL EMERGENCIES WITH THE DIABETIC DOG

There will be times when your dog becomes unwell, and you will need to chat to your vet. If your dog, for instance, is refusing to eat or is vomiting there will be little glucose in the bloodstream. If insulin is injected in these circumstances, you may precipitate dangerously low glucose levels in your dog. Signs of very low glucose include lethargy, weakness and collapse, or potential restlessness, and breathing can be more rapid. You might detect a sweet smell on the breath of the dog, although not everyone can pick this up. If you see any of these signs, you must get your dog to the vet immediately, and if your dog has been vomiting, contact your vet before giving the usual dose of insulin.

DID YOU KNOW?

Approximately 70% of dogs with diabetes are female.

THE GOOD NEWS

Whilst it often takes a bit of trial and error to get diabetes under control, the good news is that the condition is manageable, and dogs with diabetes can live wonderfully healthy and happy lives.

WHAT MAKES A DOG A SPITZ?

The word ‘spitz’ in German means pointed. Physically, most Spitz breeds have pointy ears, almond-shaped eyes, a double coat and a feathery tail carried over the back. These features give them a wolf-like appearance, and serve the purpose of keeping them warm when temperatures drop.

Spitz breeds include the Akita, the Alaskan Malamute, the American Eskimo Dog, the Chow Chow, the Finnish Lapphund, the Finnish Spitz, the Icelandic Sheepdog, the Keeshond, the Norwegian Buhund, the Norwegian Elkhound, the Norwegian Lundehund, the Pomeranian, the Samoyed, the Shiba Inu (pictured here), the Siberian Husky and the Swedish Vallhund.

COMMON NEUROLOGICAL AND ORTHOPAEDIC CONDITIONS, CAN REHABILITATION HELP?

INTERVERTEBRAL DISC DISEASE (IVDD) AND REHABILITATION

Text | Bianca Rootman

In this series, we will be exploring common neurological and orthopaedic conditions and how physiotherapy and rehabilitation can help. Many guardians, and veterinary professionals, are not aware of the benefits that physiotherapy can provide when our companions are struggling with these ailments.

In Part One we will be discussing Intervertebral Disc Disease, more commonly known as IVDD. IVDD is a condition of the spine that affects the intervertebral discs that are found between the vertebral bodies. In this condition, there is degeneration and herniation of these discs which puts pressure on the spinal cord which leads to pain and neurological symptoms. The condition mostly affects chondrodystrophic breeds, which are breeds who have short legs and long bodies such as Dachshunds, Pekingese, and Beagles. The condition commonly occurs in the mid to lower back, but can also occur in the neck. The condition can be painful and cause neurological deficits such as wobbliness, an inability to use their back legs, or complete paralysis of all four legs.

There are two types to this condition. The first is know as Type 1 or Hansen Type 1. This type happens suddenly and can be quite painful and goes along with significant neurological deficits. These are the little doggies who all of a sudden stop walking after jumping off a bed or couch, or after undergoing some form of impact. The second type is Type 2, or Hansen Type 2. This is a slow, degenerative condition with a gradual onset of symptoms. These companions often only have back pain, and later on there may be neurological symptoms. When the condition affects your companions neck, they may display symptoms such a pain when touching the neck, a low head carriage, stiffness when moving, vocalising when being touched, neck spasms, and in severe cases, front and hind limb paralysis.

Both types require veterinary attention, especially Type 1 which requires immediate veterinary attention. Your vet will assess your companion, make a diagnosis via means of x-rays, a CT scan, or an MRI, and discuss the way forward. Surgery is indicated for most, but this will be up to the vet and guardian.

Rehabilitation and physiotherapy are indicated for both surgical and nonsurgical management of IVDD. Before starting the physiotherapy journey, please get clearance from your vet or veterinary surgeon as to when they feel your companion will be ready. It is also advised to call your physiotherapist and get advice on when to make your first appointment as both routes will require cage rest before any form of outpatient therapy can begin.

Your physiotherapist will assess your companion and come up with a therapy program best suited to rehabilitating your companion. The goals of IVDD physiotherapy are centred around managing pain, preventing muscle atrophy when your companion is not able to walk, helping to restore coordination and proprioception (your companion’s ability to be aware of where their limbs are) and to manage any compensatoy issues your companion may be experiencing from overusing other parts of their bodies.

Rehabilitation programmes generally consist of:

• Massage to assist with pain and tense muscles

• Neuromuscular electrical stimulation to combat pain and build muscles

• Passive and active exercises to encourage weight bearing and prevent muscle atrophy, as well as teach your companion to walk again

• Acupuncture to assist with pain and nerve stimulation

• Ultrasound to assist with pain and healing

• Underwater treadmill or hydrotherapy to retrain your companion how to walk again, and to build muscles

• Hot and cold therapy to assist with healing and relax tense muscles

A lot of patience and perseverance is required when rehabilitating your companion after an IVDD incident. The rehabilitation can take weeks to months to years, and sometimes your companion unfortunately never regains the ability to walk again. There is a lot of home management and commitment required with these cases too. In saying that, there are many, many successful cases who recover fully. There is hope and a light at the end of the tunnel for most companions.

ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO RYNFIELD

154 President Brand Str, Rynfield, Benoni

Contact: 083 230 2188

Email: animalhealths@gmail.com

ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO PRETORIA EAST

218 Mark St, Grootfontein County Estates, Pretoria East, Grootfontein Country Estates

Contact: 074 251 4410

Email: ahahpretoria@gmail.com

SALMON

frittata

NUTRITIOUS AND DELICIOUS!

It might sound fancy, but making your dog a salmon frittata is good for their health and super simple to do! Eggs are a great source of complete protein, and salmon is rich in omega-3s which are good for the skin and joints, so with this quick recipe requiring few ingredients, there’s no reason not to give it a try!

INGREDIENTS

• 3 free-range eggs

• 1 tin of salmon in spring water (drained and flaked)

• 150g of cubed, cooked sweet potato

• 2 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh parsley

• A quarter teaspoon of coconut oil

DIRECTIONS

• Beat the eggs together.

• Warm the coconut oil in a small frying pan and add the beaten eggs, the cubed sweet potatoes, the flaked salmon and the chopped parsley.

• Cook on low to medium heat for approximately three minutes or until the eggs are firm.

• Remove from the heat to cool to room temperature, then divide into individual portions.

REHAB ILITATION

THE FOCUS OF THE TEARS TEAM

Rescue & Rehabilitation Support is so close to our hearts that it is a part of the TEARS logo. While TEARS started as an outreach programme for the pets in Masiphumelele, it wasn’t long before we had our hands full with animals that had been surrendered to us and were in need of loving homes.

Today, TEARS Animal Rescue has a Kennel and a Cattery which allows us to keep up to 230 companion animals during their journey from rescued to rehomed.

The journey for an animal being admitted into TEARS always starts with the TEARS Veterinary Hospital. Whether the pet has been surrendered to, or rescued by, our Mobile Clinic or they have walked in the door, the very first encounter each animal has is with our compassionate and committed Veterinary staff who examine every animal to determine if they are stable or if they require any treatment. If the animal has come to us as a stray, they will sit a stray period and their picture and information will be shared on social media in hopes of finding their owners.

Once the Veterinary Team is happy that the animal is well, they will be placed in the Kennels or Cattery where they sit a quarantine period to ensure full safety from any potential illness the animal might have been exposed to. During this two-week period, the Kennel and Cattery Teams are able to begin any rehabilitation work that is required. All of our animals are rescued from tragic situations and need some form of rehabilitation. These vulnerable dogs and cats are saved from homelessness, being unwanted, abused, illness and injury. It is completely

normal that an animal coming from a situation like that would need to learn to trust again.

The rehabilitation process for each animal is unique to their needs and our team works very carefully with each animal to see them go from broken to flourishing. Here’s a glimpse into what rehabilitation looks like at TEARS:

BEHAVIOUR REHAB

Behaviour rehab takes time, a lot of patience, and understanding.

Trauma, mistreatment and isolation are often the most pressing issues that shape the way the animals who walk through our doors see the world.

From learning to socialise with other dogs or walk on a lead, to earning trust from animals who have been used as bait dogs

or experienced bestiality, TEARS animals are equipped through our enrichment program and remedial socialising to get ready for a beautiful second chance.

PHYSICAL REHABILITATION

Physical rehabilitation is vital for animals who have physical trauma or disabilities and receive a host of therapies such as physiotherapy, laser therapy, hydrotherapy and Ttouch movement to help cell responses, to get them into tip top shape.

NUTRITION REHABILITATION

Cats and dogs who have been neglected, abandoned, or even overfed need a strict nutrition plan to not only get to a healthy weight but to fix any issues related to being malnourished, emaciated or overweight all of which are detrimental to the development of an animal. Having access to a specialised feeding plan helps build strong, healthy bodies.

NEONATAL CARE

In addition to all of the different forms of rehab, TEARS also provides neonatal

care for babies, and specialised care for sick animals that are on medication, even keeping an eye on their blood cell count.

Whether needing to learn to trust humans, other animals, becoming more socialised or overcoming another stumbling block, TEARS dogs and cats receive the support they need through a holistic one-on-one approach to help our pets become the most adoptable that they can be. We prepare these pets for a forever home and facilitate them finding their purrrfect match.

SUPPORT RESCUE & REHABILITATION

Every act of kindness makes a difference. For more information about how you can uplift the lives of animals please visit: https://tears.devman.co.za/devman/online/rescuerehab/

YOUR DOG QUESTIONS ANSWERED

It seems like a lot of dogs are having their anal sacs emptied by vets and groomers, some dogs ending up with impactions and infections. What do guardians need to pay attention to for optimal anal gland health?

Anal glands or sacs are situated under the skin, just below the anus and have small ducts passing to the outside. The sacs contain sebaceous glands which produce the foul-smell we usually associate with anal gland emptying. In normal circumstances the anal glands are emptied as faeces press against the anus wall. This natural pressure expresses the glands and the glandular liquid coats the faeces.

If the faeces are too soft, i.e. not firm enough to press against the anal wall, the glands can become blocked and sometimes infected. Symptoms of this may include dogs scooting their bottoms along the floor, nibbling the base of the tail or looking uncomfortable and distressed.

Impaction (i.e. blockage) can also be the result of the glands being positioned anatomically incorrectly but your vet should be able to advise you if this is the case.

There are many ways of ensuring your dog passes healthy firm faeces to help naturally empty the glands. This can include ground bone in a raw diet or just increased fibre.

Speak to your vet about ways of managing the problem effectively.

Is there a way to prevent your dog from obsessively licking their paws?

Dogs may lick their paws for a variety of reasons, but allergies irritating the feet are the first cause to rule out. These might be environmental allergies such as from grasses, parasites, carpets, pollens or other animal fur, or dietary allergies, with allergies to chicken and grain being known to inflame the feet. Your vet may be able to conduct an allergy test, or may suggest using an exclusion diet to find the allergen that way.

The issue, however, can also be entirely behavioural. If he is bored and it has become an obsessive habit, you may need to break the cycle with new distractions such as stuffed Kong toys or other mentally stimulating activities. It can also be that your dog has worked out that they get attention from you when they lick their paws, even if this is ‘negative’ attention, which can also perpetuate the behaviour. Ignoring the behaviour and rewarding for other activities is the way to get around this.

Whatever the cause, if your dog’s paws are becoming visibly irritated and sore, a trip to the vet is advised.

Products we love

PaleoPet Pure 100% Green Beef Tripe for Dogs

Humans may find tripe to be somewhat of an acquired taste (and smell), but dogs absolutely love it! Our tripe has been thoroughly washed and cleaned for you, while retaining all the nutrition of unbleached tripe. It’s easy to serve and store and has so many health benefits for adult and senior dogs especially.

Tripe is rich in trace minerals, while moderate in protein and fat. It is a great complementary raw food addition to a diet for dogs who may struggle with constipation or need foods that are easier to digest. Tripe doesn’t contain any bone, but still maintains a perfect calcium phosphorus balance, which is rare for animal protein without bone content.

Tripe can be used as a basis for a ketogenic diet for dogs with cancer or epilepsy where one should feed low

to no carbohydrate, moderate protein and high fat. Tripe can also entice dogs who may not feel all that well and are reticent to eat.

Our 100% Green Beef Tripe (and nothing else) is made from the best quality local beef with no preservatives, colourants or artificial flavourants.

The PaleoPet Pure range is FSA Food Safety certified and DALRRD registered. Also available in convenient, pre-frozen 1,5 Kg and 750g tubs or as a box of 12 individually wrapped 100g Patties. The tubs are reusable, recyclable and PBA-free.

Products can be purchased online at www.paleopetpure.com and delivered to your door or bought at selected retailers.

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