fashion 01 (EN)

The magazine for technology in the apparel industry fashion 01

www.assyst.de

fashion 01 The magazine for technology in the apparel industry

Imprint Publisher: assyst GmbH Max-Planck-Str. 3 D-85609 Aschheim-Dornach Germany Phone +49 (89)90-505 0 Fax +49 (89)90-505 271 www.assyst.de Responsible for the editorial content: Alexandra Seidl, Human Solutions GmbH, (alexandra.seidl@human-solutions.com) Compilation and layout: Marketing Essentials (Angelika Methner, Annegret Schall-Ceppa, Claudia Collin) www.marketing-essentials.de Š The assyst GmbH has the 2010 copyright for all articles and illustrations, unless stated otherwise. Any form of reproduction, inclusion in online services and the Internet and copying to data carriers like CD ROMs, DVD ROMs etc., may only be carried out with express, prior permission in writing from the assyst GmbH.

Editorial

Take-off!

My compliments!

I have to admit it... I long underestimated the require­ments of the apparel industry – but two years on the Advisory Panel of the German serial measure­ment program, SizeGERMANY, opened my eyes. The apparel sector and the automotive industry are worlds apart, but they also have much in common. The creation of a collection with all its garments and its variations in cut, color, application and of course its range of standard sizes is a similar undertaking in many ways to the development of a new vehicle model.

However, the automotive industry is perhaps a little bit more advanced than the world of clothing: our develop­ment processes are seamlessly engineered and virtualized... and the integration of the supplier chain has already taken place, a development which has already begun in the fashion industry, but also one which still leaves lots of scope for new technologies.

Nowadays, our motto “A BMW fits like a tailored suit” has taken on an entirely new meaning for me. After exhaustive discussions with my “fashion colleagues”, I now know that in future I will get into my suit with the same mix of enthusiasm, pleasure and apprecia­tion I experience when I get into my BMW.

Imagine the apparel industry with the same level of process efficiency as the vehicle manufacturers. The results would be solid margins, globally competitive prices and high quality. Undreamed-of possibilities in the fit and individualization of apparel would be created, with the result that a customer would get exactly the garment he was looking for, both in fit and appearance.

The solutions of the automotive industry cannot of course be transferred, but the innovation world that is “Vehicle” is indeed a worthwhile role model. Today‘s apparel sector is already achieving the same level of efficiency in many ways, and we are constantly developing new aspects which make our production faster, more seamless and more transparent.

“We” are assyst and Human Solutions – and have been for almost one year now. In line with our slogan, “Your business first”, we offer premium technology for premium manufacturers and their suppliers.

Our fashion 01 magazine will give you an impression of our current technological status. It illustrates the incredible potential that exists for a competitively powerful apparel industry in Europe. It also shows how much you can attain – together, with assyst and Human Solutions.

Yours sincerely, Dr. Andreas Seidl Managing Director, assyst GmbH and Human Solutions GmbH

Sincerely, Peer-Oliver Wagner General Manager, Ergonomics, BMW Group

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Content 6 Fashion

Page

6 The art of progress Anyone who is clever enough to exploit technical possibilities to his own advantage will be a winner.

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Wanted... peak performance!

If change is your only constant, then perhaps you should reconsider the utilization of technology in your company.

10 3D Visualization & Simulation

12 The future of visualization Simulation on a PC opens up a whole new way of working.

14 Realistic scanatars The software vidya offers real body dimensions. fashion 01 shows you how you can utilize this in product development.

16 How to … fabric simulation and virtual try-on

18 Design & Grading

18 “ You’ll need more than the rub of the green for your collection” Even your customers profit from your CAD system – after all, it‘s your style and cut philosophy that counts.

20 10 things that make pattern designers happy 21 Export with Release 20.10 22 Report on a seminar Torsten Kugelmeier of Strenesse AG at the thematic workshop, “Automated Pattern Construction with cad.assyst/smart.pattern”.

24 How to … pattern construction and model creation

26 International Sizing Portal

in cad.assyst/smart.pattern

28 From outfit to perfect fit

When correct fit becomes an economic factor.

30 Cutting a good figure Optimally prepared for new target groups, new products and new markets.

32 How to … optimizing sizes tables with iSize

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Complete overview of seminars in the special supplement Page

36 The world is digital

34 Corporate

Dr. Andreas Seidl, Managing Director of assyst and Human Solutions, on his vision of technology for the apparel industry

38 Win Win Win

38 Made-to-Measure

Everyone can be pleased by individual products.

40 Mass customization as a seamless process,

from shop to delivery 42 How to … c reation of made-to-measure apparel from shop to production

44 Laying – let the software do it!

How the Oui Group and René Lezard integrate automarker.com into their day-to-day business.

44 Individual Laying & Material Usage

46 Fashion has many faces automarker.com networks brand manufacturers and their partners worldwide.

47 smart.placement tested by Betty Barclay 48 How to … laying markers with automarker.com

50 Get lucky, leave it to chance or... use autocost

50 Cut Order Planning

What‘s “in” and what‘s “out” in today‘s cut order planning.

52 Less can mean more The company that calculates for all eventualities will save the most.

54 How to … order optimization with autocost

58 Navigate your way savely through complexity Joachim Zürn of the Z. BP Group on the dos and don‘ts in fashion PLM.

56 Product Life Cycle Management

60 PLM clears the decks

In the “good old days”, it wasn’t all roses.

62 What‘s a PLM system used for?

63 What does the ‘right‘ process look like?

64 Investing in the future

Bernd Forster, CIO, Holy Fashion Group, takes stock.

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Fashion

The art

of progress Strong competition.

Ever-intensifying demands from customers.

Falling margins.

Increasing pressure on financing.

Stressed-out employees.

Is it time for improvement? Then think about the future of “Your Company“ – and take the time to have a good look at progress.

Anyone who is clever enough to exploit technical possibilities to his own advantage will be a winner – because it‘s not the biggest, the strongest or the lowest-priced company which holds its own on the market – it‘s the one which exploits its skills in the best possible way. And your most important ally in skill utilization is technology by assyst. Our software is the most effective form of self-defense when competitive pressure, falling prices, intensive levels of customer requirements and general overburdening threaten to take the upper hand. Transparent, largely automated processes are your personal ticket to a fashion world with solid margins, motivated em­ployees and a satisfied customer base.

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

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Wanted... peak performance!

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Collection development means peak perfor­ mance for every company – and it calls for maximum flexibility from all those involved.

The only constant is change. Time is tight.

Development cycles are short. Trends have to be forecast long before they actually appear.

This calls for a ‘kid gloves‘ touch – and the risk involved can also hamper the financing of a collection which will actually see the light of day several months later.

The fashion development process is hard to beat for sheer complexity. All the workflow stages in the various departments are totally dependent on one another.

While Purchasing is waiting for a piece list and material information, Pattern Construction needs feedback from the Design department. This is a typical situation where you need price information that‘s bang-up-to-date, to help assess the target price. The various departments slowly consolidate their information, bit by bit, until they finally have an explicit piece list and a precise prelimi­ nary costing forecast. Technology must be able to support this constant consolidation and accurate defini­ tion of information.

The quality of the collection designs also depends on the closely-networked cooperation of all those involved.

“Would the poloneck version fit better?” “How do design alterations impact on the larger sizes? Questions like these must be answered fast. In this process, which is so dependent on the intensive exchange of information, the right answers are needed immediately and have to be quickly acted upon. This can only happen if technology takes over the routine tasks. Yet another important criterion for quality is fit: Up-to-date sizes tables are of primary importance for companies planning to enter new markets. For companies aiming at new target groups, the adjustment of the sizes tables can also be a crucial factor. Here technology must again play the major role in data integration.

An enormous amount of knowledge, communication and coordination are necessary milestones en route to a finished collection – and this applies not only to the company itself, but also to its global partners. If current information could be supplied automatically, employees would no longer have to rush through various departments – and they would also spend a lot less time on the road and in the air. There would be no more concern about whether or not the documentation was upto-date and time-consuming searches for background files would be a thing of the past. A coordinated work flow can also help to make the complexity of the development process more transparent and controllable.

Then a collection plan can really become a reliable framework for operations. The distribution and status of tasks will become fully transparent.

These few examples alone demonstrate that the current collection ‘marathon’ can in no way be described as optimal. Collection development demands peak performances from both employees and technology. The wrong software can easily overturn the finely-balanced interaction between collaboration and processes. It can cause flexibility to stagnate – and replace one problem with another. Instead of change, the result would be chaos – and this is why many in the fashion world are reluctant to welcome technological change into their companies. Anyone who wishes to promote innovation sensibly in the fashion world must know the ropes and move forward with care. He must be constantly aware of the whole – and improve the details of the parts.

He must highlight possibilities and implement technologies, without curbing the flow of productivity. This is what assyst stands for.

“ Progress is: Saving time, Creating transparency and being flexible.”

SOURCING

SPEED

CLARITY

COOPERATION QUALITY FREEDOM FOR CREATIVITY FLEXIBILITY 9

3D Visualization & Simulation

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

From: Fred Berger (Designer) To: Tailoring Subject: Where is the prototype?

When can we expect it? We‘re all waiting for it here.

From: Silvia Schmidt (Pattern designer) To: Antonia Hoffmann (Pattern designer) Subject: FW: Where is the prototype?

Antonia, please check it out... fast!

From: Antonia Hoffmann (Pattern designer) To: Fred Berger (Designer) CC: Silvia Schmidt (Pattern designer); Design Department Subject: FW: Re: Where is the prototype?

The design was sent back – wrong cut.

The new prototype will be ready next week.

Sad but true!

From: Fred Berger (Designer) To: Antonia Hoffmann (Pattern designer) CC: Tailoring; Design Department; Management Subject: FW: Re: Re: Where is the prototype?

The deadline‘s looming! Why has this just been noticed now of all times? :o( There must be another way of doing this...!

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The future

of visualization vidya software facilitates the coordination between pattern construction and design.

Fit, quality and the impact of design and cut are all already simulated on the PC. The virtual try-on reduces the number of prototypes, avoids idle time caused by unnecessary waiting and saves costs.

Fred Berger, Designer

The future holds a whole new way of working for us.

And to some extent, the future has already become reality today. On a virtual model, you can see how a fabric drapes, how prints look on various different sizes and where a design sits too tightly on the body. Visualization on the PC has to be as realistic as possible, so the quality of the material, cut and human being simulation must also be excellent. For the virtual try-on, a 2D cut is transformed into a real, digital garment. And the outstanding feature is that every cut which vidya simulates in 3D doesn‘t just look like a real dress, it also behaves like one. It‘s sometimes tight, then it might be wide, it suddenly stretches and even wrinkles. Designers and pattern designers can implement alterations together in the 2D cut and then use vidya to check and modify the results until they achieve the effect they‘re looking for. This gives teams more freedom to create new designs. A prototype is only sewn when all con­ cerned are satisfied.

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Antonia Hoffmann, Pattern designer

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Realistic

scanatars vidya with real body dimension data Rendering the silhouette of a sketched design into the correct dart is an art in itself – especially when no common image exists. That‘s why designers and pattern designers – mainly as a basis for technical discussion – try out a prototype on the model and coordinate and finetune the design and the cut. When the collection fever starts to rise, there‘s an enormous demand for efficient deadline logistics. And if the relevant model isn‘t available, the try-on takes place at the computer – with vidya.

Scanatar: virtual 3D avatar of a woman, a man or a child.

In contrast to the avatar, a scanatar adopts the exact body dimensions of a specific person or the ideal body dimensions of a standard size.

In combination with technology by Human Solutions, the avatar becomes a scanatar (in line with body dimension table). This virtual model is developed from a Human Solutions body scan, and either has the exact dimensions of a house model, or is commensurate with the dimensions of one of the new standard sizes of current serial measurements. With the know-how and anthropometrical/ergonomic research background of Human Solutions, we create perfect simulations of human beings in the various, different standard sizes. The many serial measurements carried out in the last few years have created a comprehensive and – more importantly still – a digital database for scanatars of all target groups – women, men and children. With these additional “house models”, the development process is seamlessly and digitally reproduced during a decisive phase: at the interface between design and pattern construction. Many fundamental fit issues can be solved at the PC with vidya.

A prototype is only sewn when the design has suffi­ ciently ‘matured‘: and to avoid bottlenecks caused by the possible non-availability of real models, we have 3D avatars (based on SizeGERMANY data) which have body dimensions identical to those of the models.

Scan

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Avatar

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Efficient model testing in 3D One interesting potential application for the 3D design process with vidya is the testing of basic pieces with fixed basic patterns, like T-shirts and jeans. Here many versions have to be created quickly. With the scanatars of the female and male house models in vidya, new developments in themes, colors and design worlds are tested and prints and accessories like buttons simulated.

This enables designers to work seamlessly on a figure – from the first draft to the final design. Waiting times caused by the non-availability of the house model are thus considerably reduced. The pattern-making team is directly downstream, with the result that any design changes that could affect the pattern are automatically passed on. The effect of this is a noticeable reduction in tension and deadline stress, with development moving forward much faster and more smoothly.

However, the simulation in the standard size only solves some of the questions posed during the development process: samples all have one size. The final product must, however cover an enormous range of sizes, from the very small to extra large – and what looks great in a size 38 might look totally different in a size 44. We don’t have to rely solely on experience and that famous ‘gut feeling‘, however, because more virtual size models can be utilized. The database uses the results of the SizeGERMANY serial measurement program and the internal specifications relating to the target group.

Since printed pictures, text, labels and logos can get badly warped out of shape with each increase in chest circumference, the great advantage is that we can test various sizes during the inspection of jeans pockets and T-shirt prints – in the case of jeans, the impact on back pockets changes with each individual size.

Error detection with vidya

Zip too short

Zip too long

Wrong logo position

You’ll find more on this at www.sizegermany.de or www.human-solutions.de 3D scanatar

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How to...

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Fabric Simulation and Virtual Try-On Simulation of a 2D cut in vidya. Here the silhouette is analysed, and inseam and body proximity are assessed. Different versions can be processed in vidya, implemented into cad.assyst and subsequently re-visualized on the scanatar.

1. In cad.assyst the 3D information which controls the virtual sewing procedure in vidya is assigned to the processed 2D cut

2. The processed 2D cut is now transferred to vidya by the cad.assyst interface. In addition to the 2D cut, the relevant collection theme is also selected

3. The pants are automatically pre-positioned on the scanatar and virtually sewn. Here vidya also takes the material properties into consideration

4. vidya simulates the human being, the cut and the material

5. Assessment of the inseam

6. Assessment of the body proximity (blue = in contact; red = at least 2 cm. clearance)

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

+ -

7. Preparation and processing of versions: defining the second pant hemline.

The detailed screenshot illustrates the function: set the point in CAD

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8 . Preparation and processing of versions: Transfer of the second pant hemline to the 2D CAD cut in cad.assyst.

The point set in vidya is transferred

+

+

-

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9. Illustration of short variations in vidya.

The Zoom function enables fine-tuning

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Design & Grading

the rub of the green

“You’ll need more than for your collection”

The ‘Rub of the green’ means ‘luck’… the phrase originates from the globally popular game of golf.

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Even your customers will profit from your CAD system

After all, it‘s your style and cut philosophy that counts

Your label’s pants really suit me. We customers – and I speak with confidence on behalf of all of that venerable company – have internalized the attributes of the wellknown apparel brands perfectly. Yes, yours as well! We associate each label with one specific style and cut. This helps in purchasing. And it also tells you that your cuts and styles are your most important asset. Every time a garment is tried on in the changing room, we customers re-evaluate the brand name and the image, based on the quality of the item of clothing – and this especially depends on the cut.

The assyst company has always offered first-class cut care – and that starts with the management of pieces, markers and styles. Take attribute allocation and naming, for example. In the apparel industry, the name says it all. A skirt isn‘t just a skirt, oh no… it‘s “Skirt/SeasonFall2010/Wool/Front part/Position Center/01.” You can simply click this all together using a database. Without a data­base, we would have a wild, uncontrolled growth of names – and that means export errors.

However, we customers are ambivalent. On the one hand, we expect to see the trusted attributes of our brand name, while on the other, we appreciate diversification… even if we do have to keep up with the trends.

For you, this effectively means: it‘s time to focus on collection development. We always want new material for the next shopping excursion.

And don‘t you dare alter the cut or style too much!

No one develops a collection out of the blue. Don’t leave anything to chance. Stability and reliability paired with creative ideas – that‘s impor­tant for us, the customers.

So go easy with your styles and cuts. Manage them well and make your work sequences flow smoothly. You‘ve got a good CAD system with an integrated database to help you achieve this. Here’s an example – take the coat from last year‘s collection and shorten it a little, perhaps make it a little tighter at the waist? Now just enter the seams and match up the lining. Was that fast enough for you? HOWEVER… with CAD nothing is taken for granted – the ability to automate routine tasks and easily process cuts is what separates the wheat from the chaff. And that‘s why my favorite brand works with cad.assyst.

From R elease 20

.10:

smart.patter n inside

As a premium CAD system, assyst facilitates the work of experienced designers and beginners alike: but that‘s only part of our philosophy: assyst is quite simply a tool for maintaining the cut and style philosophy of your brand, one which in many cases will have been on the market for several generations. This is why cad.assyst offers a high degree of user comfort, while at the same time easing the effort involved in pattern design. This product strategy has been firmly implemented in the new 20.10 release. There is now more scope available in grading, for example, or in measurement.

At last – the essentials take pride of place! Use your skills where they are needed most – on the outer fabric.

And to give you time to do this, you can now automate those routine pattern-matching jobs using macros in smart.pattern. There‘s more to smart-pattern than just saving time, however. To quote your customer, “Your cuts and styles are your most important asset.” That‘s why you can use smart.pattern to save all the experience in your company in individual macros – thereby safeguarding your economical future.

Your CAD experts at assyst

Your best (lady) customer

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10 things, that make pattern designers happy What the new Release 20.10 can do

idual Automation indiv procedures

smart.pattern inside

1. Decide for yourself If you only want snappers, that‘s all you‘ll see. You can achieve this with Release 20.10: with smart.display you can simply suppress any function that you don‘t need.

6. The fine art of matching Difficult repeat fabrics beware! Clever matchers can now define 255 rules with match numbers. No difficult plaid will ever cause you problems again!

2. Delegate routine Is matching linings taking too long? You‘re not too keen on inserting seam tapes? Then let the assyst macros do the work for you.

7. One glance is enough Just one look and you know everything you need to know.

You can see right away where a piece has already been graded. The table is directly in the background. You can identify reflective pieces from their special linear display.

3. Get a good deal 20.10 also includes smart.pattern. To help you shine in outer fabrics, you get 10 additional macros which you can choose yourself from 60 standard tasks.

4. Export à la carte Short name, long name, name only from position 13–18.

You can create your own export templates for any requirement. Long names are shortened by default – and there‘s also a safeguard against double-naming.

5. Manual ‘elbow room‘ You can now match sleeves and armholes with hardly any effort at all. The two curves can be directly com­ pared with one another. You can manually enter the size allowances for freedom of movement in the same work step.

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8. A good memory for numbers Once measured, never forgotten. Release 20.10 constantly saves measuring values – so each measurement can be repeated and checked for table-conformity.

9. A good grip on local grading rules There can only be one! If you edit a local grading rule which already exists in another part of the piece, cad.assyst will let you know. The existing grading remains intact.

10. Grading by eye In 20.10, grading rules can be more easily edited and assigned. The “Graderule Editor“ helps to allocate rules, immediately displays changes and simplifies manual matching.

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Export with Release 20.10

jadefloh – online Pattern designer

CAD Forum Release 20.10? Yes, there was something about data export in there...

Have you tried it already?

secret_wizard – online IT-Admin

CAD Forum Yes, the upgrade is really something. It used to take a lot of time and effort to coordinate exports for partners, you know, who needs which file name and so on... Now we can do it automatically with templates – and that‘s a real help!

fleure _rouge – online Technical work preparation

CAD Forum Hey, you‘re well organized! We just found out something great... assyst even exports in ASTM format. That will solve the export problem once and for all.

secret_wizard – online IT Admin

CAD Forum Enjoy your work! What do you think of smart.pattern? That‘s in the current release.

Our cut director says the macros mean she can always have a lunch break.

We‘ll see! I‘ll keep you informed.

In our Webinar, you can experience cad.assyst close-up. Info: www.assyst.de.

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Report on a seminar Torsten Kugelmeier, Strenesse AG

Economic opportunities thanks to technology The Strenesse female customer is international. The focus of international development is currently on the Asian and Arabian markets. We want to learn all we can about these markets and their specifications in order to target them in our collections and thus exploit all available potential to the best of our ability. The assyst workshop, “Automated Pattern Construction“, with its various topics like iSize Portal, gives us an exten­sive overview of the assyst technologies and their innovative application.

New impressions for collection development Two results in the seminar particularly impressed me: On the one hand we had the marked deviations in the sizes tables in the test scenarios, and on the other the seamless support of the technology by assyst and Human Solutions. The live demos made it abundantly clear just how great the differences in fit for different generations or global regions can be, even although the standard sizes were the same. I have to say I really admired the way in which assyst technology seamlessly integrates this new data quality into the development

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process. Automated pattern construction is the central theme in all the scenarios. It integrates market and fit data into the development process, automating many routine activities while doing so. The seamless data transfer from the SizeGERMANY or iSize Portal to CAD as a sizes table and to vidya in the form of avatars for 3D visualization enables collection development to be focused on a target group and employs a completely new approach to the question of fit.

Exchanging experiences with other manufacturers I have attended two assyst seminars in the last few months and both events provided me with some interesting food for thought. The alliance with Human Solutions has clearly benefited assyst greatly. It was only during the seminar‘s practical approaches that I realized how interesting the combination of fit information with 2D/ 3D and CAD actually is – and it‘s obvious that the assyst people really know what they‘re talking about. The products are not only oriented on the clothing sector, they have been developed especially for apparel manufacturers.

And last but not least – talking to the assyst and Human Solutions experts was extremely interesting, as was the intensive exchange of information with my colleagues from other apparel companies. The seminar was an ideal platform for this purpose. My sincere thanks to assyst for an excellent and highly successful event.

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

“ assyst shows how technical innovation can unlock new potential. Well-grounded, objective and appealing to the eye.“ Torsten Kugelmeier, Strenesse AG

“ Automated Pattern Construction with cad.assyst/smart.pattern and M. Müller & Sohn“

Themes workshop

Expertise

Compact by assyst

You‘ll find many of assyst‘s thematic workshops, product seminars and Web Conferences in the special gray supplement, or at www.assyst.de.

New target groups, new products, new markets. In today‘s dynamic competition in international markets, apparel companies must identify economic opportunities quickly and react appropriately to market changes.

The seminar addresses the efficiency and quality that can be gained by developing strategic growth potential through the integration of data analysis from the SizeGERMANY/iSize Portals into cad.assyst./smart.pattern and vidya. M. Müller & Sohn offer a reliable system of relevant rules here – and it is directly integrated into the assyst technology. Using three specific market scenarios, participants can trace how the technology is used and compare it with their own company situations. The three scenarios are: Target group – women of 45+ years of age; Expansion of the range; Adapting the product to the Chinese market.

You‘ll find information on current dates at www.assyst.de.

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How to...

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Pattern construction and model creation in cad.assyst/smart.pattern Basic pattern construction for pants is carried out in accordance with the cutting system by M. Müller & Sohn, using the sizes from the SizeGERMANY Portal. The subsequent model creation is supported by macros in smart.pattern.

1. The sizes are read automatically from the sizes table, but they can be altered if required.

Parameters can also be set.

2. Example of a basic pattern: Values are entered for the waist darts and for the gather length. Then the macro starts automated pattern construction.

3. The macro stops at predefined points. If required, individual modifications can then be made.

4. Example of model creation: “Yoke spliting“ in smart.pattern. There are more macros available for slit construction, hip pocket and waistband.

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

5. The macro stops and the shape of the hip yoke can now be manually corrected

6. Finished design of a yoke with seam allowance

7. Finished jeans

8. If a grading is available, it is also incorporated in the macro procedure

> smart.pattern library with more than 200 macros > smart.pattern developer for the development of individual macros > Upon request, assyst will also develop individual macros for you

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International Sizing Portal

SizeGERMANY was the basis for the creation of the s.Oliver house model in size 38 – digitally on the PC as a scanatar and as an avatar.

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

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When you open up new markets... ... ARE YOUR EXISTING PRODUCTS APPROPRIATE FOR THIS MARKET? ... HOW GREAT IS THE MARKET POTENTIAL? ... EXACTLY HOW WILL YOU ADAPT YOUR PRODUCTS TO YOUR TARGET MARKETS? ... W HAT AMOUNTS AND IN WHICH SIZES KEY WILL YOU PRODUCE FOR YOUR TARGET MARKET?

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Using SizeGERMANY data, the specialist mail-order company Walbusch has developed a target group-specific table of sizes, a scanatar in ladies’ wear size 42 and a company-specific avatar for fit optimization.

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From outfit to

perfect fit The iSize international body dimension portal enables the efficient and interactive analysis of body dimension data for international markets.

This means that apparel manufacturers can now clarify central marketing, sales, product development and production issues at an early stage – thereby securing future market success. The body dimension data of the analysis is used in vidya (as a scanatar) and in cad.assyst (as an adapted table of sizes). The data then flows into product development for immediate use.

Thanks to this representative and readily available database, the apparel industry can effectively utilize fit as an economic factor.

4 x size 40 – and each time it's different. The reason for this is that body shapes in the various different age groups differ significantly from one another.

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Thanks to the SizeGERMANY Portal, Hugo Boss has the information and the tools it needs to evaluate and verify the products for specific target groups in-house.

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

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Leading mail order companies like Otto and Neckermann have agreed upon a homogenous table of sizes based on the sizeGERMANY results. The new table will be included in the 2010 Fall/Winter seasonal catalog and thereafter.

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Cutting a good

figure The data quality and analysis options of the iSize and SizeGERMANY Portals have actually changed the meaning of the words body dimensions and tables of sizes. The portals have expanded the database for pattern creation by one essential element: body shape.

The supplementing of the classic 2D cuts add-ons with volume information brings two amazing facts to light: 1. Two test persons can actually have the same standard size according to the table of sizes – but they have completely different fit requirements.

2. Body shapes can be grouped in specific regional or age-related figure types.

From an economic standpoint, this finding has a massive impact on the apparel industry. Anyone who wants to open up new markets immediately encounters a major challenge – and that is achieving correct fit. The existing table of sizes must be ideal for current body dimensions in the target market. So basic patterns and model patterns have to be adapted to the new tables of sizes. Grading must also be created anew. To identify the changes that are relevant for market success, most companies have so far used the years of experience gained from season to season.

++++++ 30

The SizeGERMANY results support Tchibo in its changeover from double to single sizes.

++++++

This process was time-consuming and protracted – now, however, thanks to the seamless availability of real body dimensions and assyst‘s new tables of sizes in 2D and 3D, cut modifications can be implemented significantly faster and much more easily.

Manufacturers are thus optimally prepared should they wish to open up additional age-group segments, new regional markets or even more product segments. From the first day on, they are able to offer their customers optimal fit – and this secures valuable market shares even in the first season.

How it works: In the first step, the target group and product-relevant data is determined in an iSize Online Portal and a scanatar with corresponding sizes is generated.

In the second step, cad.assyst uses this data for cut modifications and grading. The third step sees the trying-on of the new garment on virtual models of the new target group.

3D body scanners were set up in the company‘s own Marc O‘Polo stores to carry out a customer-specific serial measurement program.

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Scenario 1:

Scenario 2:

Scenario 3:

A new target group

A new product

A new market

A clothing company wants to market a collection for ladies aged between 46 and 65. Until now, the company has differentiated age groups by style and not by cut.

The result of the analysis in iSize: The figure types of women older than 45 are not covered by the sizes tables. These older women are on average 2 cm. shorter – and that has an effect on the length of their extremities. Their average waist circumference is 8 cm. wider. Hip circumference remains the same.

A scanatar with a mid-range, representative 3D body shape is created.

When you compare this newly-created scanatar to the scanatar sized in the original table, it clearly shows that enormous figure differences exist, in spite of the fact that both scanatars have the same standard size. Visualization helps designers to develop new models which address the figure type of the target group.

Cut and grading (with current data) are directly implemented into cad.assyst.

A manufacturer of ladies’ wear jackets wants to supplement his range with pants. Important! Here the coat and pants must have the same ‘fit philosophy‘.

To give himself an edge in knowledge in this unfamiliar product segment, ‘pants‘, the manufacturer uses the macros programmed

by M. Müller & Sohn in assyst‘s smart.pattern.

He can take the additional dimen­ sions for pants manufacture directly from the iSize table of sizes. The dimensions – waist circumference, hip circumference and body height – apply both to coats and pants and are therefore selected for both.

This ensures that the fit will be homogenous.

So if a customer has a coat size of 38, the pants will also fit her in the corresponding size.

A European company wants to offer its products on the Asian market.

An iSize analysis immediately shows that the German ladies’ wear table is completely unsuitable for the Chinese market. A company which exports on this basis will never reach the target group with its products. Chinese women are shorter, slimmer and the lower part of their bodies is also shorter.

So the sizes tables must first be fundamentally adapted to these new dimensions, and the body height for all sizes is reduced by 8 cm., while waist circumference is increased by 10 cm. The difference can be clearly seen in a vizualisation of scanatars with a German figure in size 38 and a Chinese figure in the corresponding standard size. This visual aid facilitates the designer‘s job of developing models for the Asian market.

31

How to...

Optimizing sizes tables with iSize Application scenario: A German company wants to offer ladies’ wear products on the Chinese market.

The product in question – ladies‘ pants in sizes that are commensurate with the German ladies’ wear table.

Defining the target market and target group: “China“ is first selected as the target market. Here you can also freely choose a combination of several countries if you wish. Then you select the gender, in this case, female and age, in this case between 18 and 75. Various different age groups of men, women and children can also be freely combined here. For unisex products, both genders are selected.

In this example, we have selected the German ladies’ wear sizes table for the table analysis, but you can also use standard and company-specific sizes tables. For ladies‘ pants with China as the target market we look at the waist-to-hip proportions and the length dimensions. Thanks to the overlaying of the target customer dimensions on the sizes table, you can see immediately that the German table of sizes is not suitable for the Chinese market.

Visualization with scanatars displays this even more clearly when you compare the body shapes‘ standard sizes and those in the target group. > Illustrations 1 and 2 Optimizing the sizes table for the Chinese market: By simply ‘pushing‘ the sizes lines or individual sizes points, you can adapt entire serial sizes or individual sizes interactively to the target market. All the changes you make are summarized in the optimized table of sizes. In our example, we are modifying the table of sizes with regard to the waist-to-hip proportions. > Illustrations 3 and 4 Calculating market potential: For pants with China as the target market, we have selected waist circumference, hip circumference and internal leg length as the primary dimensions for calculating the market share. To determine the market potential, the absolute and relative market shares are calculated. You can also freely configure the product-dependent dimensions which are relevant for market share calculation. > Illustrations 5 and 6 Exporting the optimized table of sizes: The analysis results are saved in the user‘s private document area. You can call up an analysis whenever you want and export the results in a standardized format. The exported table of sizes contains the body dimension values for each size. These values can be transferred to smart.pattern for implementation into a cut.

Generating a cut with smart.pattern: The product-relevant dimensions for the pants are taken from the exported sizes table in accordance with the pattern design program created by M. Müller & Sohn. smart.pattern gives you the choice of using a predefined pattern design or setting up your own design. The creation of markers for each size (corresponding to the table of sizes) is carried out automatically. The created pieces can either be further processed in cad.assyst, or used as a basis for the model style/cut.

Creating a mid-range body shape and scanatars: All the 3D scans are selected using the primary dimensions and tolerance areas of the clothing table. iSize automatically creates a mid-range, representative 3D body shape from the scans. If required, the body shape can also be adapted to target measurements. This scanatar can now be exported to vidya for 3D visualization and simulation. Here you can use a realistic virtual model to try on the garment (designed in smart.pattern) and evaluate its appearance and proportions.

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Illustration 1: Defining the target group

Illustration 2: Selection of the table of sizes

Illustration 3: Result of the analysis: The ladies’ wear table is not suitable for China

Illustration 4: Modification of the waist to hip ratio

Illustration 5: Visualization with scanatars in iSize clearly shows the differences

Illustration 6: Calculation of the market potential per size

33

Corporate

Your business first = Focusing on the creation of value “We make progress possible in the fashion industry.

Our strategy program ‘Your business first‘ underlines this. Every day more than 150 employees of assyst and Human Solutions work on technologies which enable our customers to optimize their processes, increase their productivity and improve their cost structures – in a nutshell – they create more value.”

Dr. Andreas Seidl, Managing Director assyst and Human Solutions

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Thematic Workshops. Product Training. Web Conferences.

Expertise by assyst

You’ ll also find more sem inar th emes, current an d dates, prices a t www.assyst.de or c all +49 -89 -90505-123

Thanks to our thematic workshops, seminars and web conferences, assyst customers, partners and those interested in our products and services are always right up-to-date with current trends and technology. We have put together an extract of our range of courses for you on the following pages.

Fashion Forum The assyst Company is soon to host the first Fashion Forum, a industry conference addressing “Technology in Apparel”. The event will see the introduction of trends, interesting application cases and new technologies. Created exclusively for all apparel manufacturers and their suppliers, the Fashion Forum will be held in the spring of each year. You‘ll find more information, the current agenda, registration options and your contact person at www.assyst.de.

1

Thematic Workshops Today’s technology must match your business model. In our thematic workshops, we will show you how new technologies can bring you competitive advantages and how assyst products can integrate with your day-to-day business – and our response to any queries you might have is direct and targeted action! This is why our workshops are especially suitable for gaining initial experience with a new technology or for making headway in decision processes concerning a particular technology.

Design & Grading Automated pattern construction with cad.assyst Objective Using smart.pattern’s macro function and the body dimensions you enter (e.g. from the SizeGERMANY Body Dimension Portal), you can design basic patterns in accordance with M. Müller & Sohn’s pattern systematics.

The relevant macro in smart.pattern then automatically calculates the corresponding reference measurements.

Participants Decision makers and employees in product management and pattern construction.

Content > Introduction to the smart.pattern philosophy > Potential applications for the 3-product combination of the Human Solutions body dimension portal SizeGERMANY/iSize, the cad.assyst module smart.pattern, and vidya, the software for 3D visualization & simulation by assyst > Application scenario 1 Collection for a new target group > Application scenario 2 Expanding the product range of a coat manufacturer with pants > Application scenario 3 Products for the Asian Market

2

Individual Laying & Material Usage/Cut Order Planning autocost.de – smart.marker – automarker Objective Thanks to the combination of autocost and automarker, assyst can show you a one-workplace system that ­processes the entire production order chain with breath­ taking speed and error-free perfection: merchandise management –> order processing –> optimization –> laying of markers –> creation of the material report –> spreading instruction.

Participants Those responsible for framework collection planning, the laying of markers and contract optimization.

Content > Order processing and optimization > Markers that are always up-to-date thanks to smart. marker > Transparency in the more complex areas – cutting, materials store, preliminary costing > Worldwide linking with partners In order to meet the special requirements of the various different branches, we offer seminars that target different subjects, including ladies’ wear, menswear, workwear, protective clothing and technical textiles.

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Thematic Workshops. Product Training. Web Conferences.

Product Life Cycle Management High-tech PLM – Workshop Objective With plm.assyst you can organize and manage all your product information. Thanks to data that is always up-todate, your model development is transparent and available all over the world at the right time and in the right place. Our workshops (free of charge) will give you conceptual ideas for your PLM solution and a new look at your business orientation. So what’s so special about this event, you might ask? The answer to that is that the participants choose the topics we present in our workshops – so you‘ll always get valuable, highly-relevant information and initial solution approaches to your current challenges.

Participants Management, process managers and IT employees.

Content > A task for a PLM solution > High-level overview: from the first idea all the way to realization, including a live demo of plm.assyst > Specifying the workshop topics together > Explanation and discussion of the individual topics

Learning tailored to your ability Tailored learning schedules will selectively increase your competence regarding assyst products. We determine the desired topic for your individual training – together. The objective of this tailored learning may also be the analysis and the improvement of your way of working with the assyst system.

Content > Explanation of specific programs and/or functions > Discussion on work cycles > Help & guidance > Monitoring and/or analyzing of your way of working > Finding more effective procedures to accomplish your tasks > Discussion on your special queries, wishes and problems > Improvement of your skills in working with the basic functions of the system

3

Product Training Our training courses will provide you with basic competence and know-how in one specific technology and product field. Our special training units enable you to selectively develop your skills while working with our products.

3D visualization & simulation 3D simulation of apparel Objective This course will teach you the most important functions in apparel simulation using typical pattern creation and design workflows.

Previous knowledge Pattern/technical know-how and product knowledge would be advantageous.

Content > vidya.cad – preparation of CAD data for 3D visualization and simulation > vidya Avatar – creation of in-house avatars based on body dimensions and sizes tables > vidya Simulator – simulation of apparel > vidya Texture – preparation of graphics for realistic display in vidya Simulator > vidya Seam – creation of in-house seam textures > vidya Datamanagement – management and creation of 3D data > Transfer of CAD data from third-party systems by means of data conversion (does not apply for existing assyst customers) Please note: The seminar will be tailored to your individual requirements and held in the form of a company-internal event.

Duration Approx. 8 days for vidya Compact, + 1 day if transfer of CAD data from third-party systems by means of data conversion is included (does not apply for existing assyst customers), + 2 days for vidya material.

4

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Thematic Workshops.

Product Training. Web Conferences.

Design & Grading Compact course – CAD/CAM

Basic course – Grading

Objective This Compact course will teach you the most important functions of the assyst CAD/CAM applications, using a typical workflow process in product manufacture as a practical example.

Previous knowledge Basic knowledge of manual pattern construction and grading.

Objective Using practical working examples, this course will teach you cad.assyst‘s most important grading functions.

Previous knowledge Basic knowledge of manual grading and pattern construction with cad.assyst and successful participation in the Digitizing/Construction/Modification Basic course, or a sound working knowledge of cad.assyst.

Content > Digitizing pieces and templates > All the important construction, modification and grading functions of cad.assyst > Attributes and application of database functions* > Grouping pieces in styles > Creation of models* > Preparation of markers > All the important lay.assyst functions for creating markers > Outputting pieces, styles, models* and markers to your plotter or cutter > Basics of data and system management

Content > Basics of grading with cad.assyst > Creation of grading tables > Recommendations for the organization of grading tables > All the important grading functions > Setting up a grading procedure using assyst basic patterns as examples > The effect of modification functions on the grading procedure

* only for systems with database (export/advanced+/UNIX)

Advanced training course – Grading

This course is also available for the technical textiles segment.

Duration Apparel Expert/Advanced+/UNIX 10 days Advanced 8 days Professional 7 days

Technical textiles 8 days 7 days 5 days

Duration 2 days

Objective This course will expand your current knowledge of cad.assyst grading – you’ll learn more grading functions which will enable you to solve even complex tasks.

Previous knowledge Successful participation in one of the two Basic courses (Digitizing/Construction/Modification or Digitizing/ Construction/Modification/Grading) or a sound working knowledge of grading with cad.assyst.

5

Content > Refreshing and expanding your current knowledge of grading > Tackling more complex grading functions with cad.assyst > Displaying selected sizes onscreen using sets of sizes > Model modifications incorporating grading > Distance grading > Defining and using interpolation sizes and alternative sizes > Special topics upon request, e.g. > Delta sizes > Proportional tables > Grading with the help of the Rule Editor* > Creating sizes tables using standard macros (Mt_Def)* * must be available on the customer‘s system

Duration 2 days

Basic course – Digitizing/Construction/ Modification Objective This course will teach you the basic functions of cad.assyst in Digitizing, Construction and Modification.

Previous knowledge Basic knowledge of manual construction.

Content > Digitizing pieces > Creating and modifying pieces on your screen > Plotting pieces on your screen > Saving pieces as a design file This course is also available for the technical textiles segment.

Duration 3 days

Basic course – Digitizing/Construction/ Modification/Grading Objective This course will teach you cad.assyst‘s most important construction and grading functions and the workflow of these functions. We will show you how to digitize pieces, design and alter them on your screen, etc., right through to grading of the pattern pieces. And you can expand your new-found knowledge by means of relevant working examples and practical exercises.

Previous knowledge Basic knowledge of manual pattern construction and grading.

Content > Digitizing pieces > Creating and modifying pieces on your screen > Basics of grading with cad.assyst > All the important grading functions of cad.assyst > Plotting pieces on your screen > Saving pieces as a design file Duration 5 days

Advanced training course – Construction/Modification Objective This course will expand your current knowledge of construction/modification with cad.assyst.

Previous knowledge Successful participation in one of the two Basic courses (Digitizing/Construction/Modification or Digitizing/ Creation/Modification/Grading) or a sound working knowledge of cad.assyst.

Content > Refreshing and expanding your current knowledge > Tackling more complex construction and modification functions with cad.assyst > Special topics upon request, e.g. symbols, hatching, darts, pleats. standard macros* * must be available on the customer‘s system.

Duration 2 days

6

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Thematic Workshops.

Product Training. Web Conferences.

Basic course – Using the Database Function Objective This course will teach you how to use the database function in cad.assyst in the best possible way.

Previous knowledge Successful participation in the Digitizing/Construction/ Modification Basic course or a sound working knowledge of cad.assyst.

Content > Comparison between database and file system > Preparing pieces for the database > The “Test Piece” function > Allocating attributes > Status of pieces > Saving pieces in the database > Creating styles (groups of model pieces in the same material) and models > Style options > Filtering pieces, styles and models out of the database > Finding pieces in the database using specific criteria > Outputting styles and models to your plotter or cutter > Using data.pilot to depict links between pieces, styles and models > Creating piece, style and model reports with data.net This course is also available for the technical textiles segment.

Duration 2 days

smart.pattern Runtime Objective During this course, you‘ll learn all the required standard macros of smart.pattern.

Previous knowledge Successful participation in the Digitizing/Construction/ Modification Basic course or a sound working knowledge of cad.assyst. We recommend that you al­­ready have a sound knowledge of cad.assyst‘s operating procedures, as well as a technical knowledge of pattern construction and of the grading of products.

Content > Using smart.pattern macros > Discussion on the parameter settings of smart.pattern‘s standard macros (assyst will adapt the required macros to your internal workflows and sequences) > Managing and organizing macros with menus Duration 5 days

smart.pattern Standard Objective During this course, you‘ll learn all the required standard macros of smart.pattern – and what they can change.

Previous knowledge Successful participation in the Digitizing/Construction/ Modification Basic course or a sound working knowledge of cad.assyst. We highly recommend that you already possess a sound knowledge of cad.assyst‘s operating procedures, as well as some technical knowledge of pattern construction and of the grading of products.

Content > Using smart.pattern macros > Discussion on the parameter settings of smart.pattern‘s standard macros > Learning how to adapt parameters to match your company-internal requirements > Managing and organizing macros with menus Duration 5 days

7

smart.pattern Pro Objective During this course you‘ll learn all about smart.pattern‘s required standard macros and the possibilities of changing the parameters – and you‘ll learn the macro language to enable you to program smart-pattern macros yourself.

Previous knowledge Successful participation in the Digitizing/Construction/ Modification Basic course or a sound working knowledge of cad.assyst.

We highly recommend that you possess a sound knowledge of cad.assyst operating procedures, as well as some technical knowledge of the pattern construction of products. A basic knowledge of Windows or UNIX applications is also desirable.

Content > All the important macro language commands for programming macros > Analysis of the internal operational procedures and the implementation of the sophisticated construction and modification procedures in smart.pattern macros > Adaptation of existing standard macros to match in-house requirements > Configuration of macro menus > Tips for organizing an internal smart.pattern Runtime course Duration 15 days

Oracle Database Administration for cad.assyst Objective This course will teach you how to work with Oracle databases: starting and shutting down the database, system monitoring and using the Oracle backup and recovery tools.

Previous knowledge You must have experience in the system administration of Windows or UNIX servers. Previous knowledge of databases (SQLserver, MySQL etc.) would be helpful, but it‘s not a precondition.

Content > Technical overview, management tools > SQLplus > Enterprise Manager > Startup and shutdown > privileged access via SYSDBA > system parameters, SPFILE > startup and shutdown methods > Oracle network setup > configuration of LISTENER/startup/shutdown > name resolution via TNSnames > Monitoring > monitoring of table spaces and data files > event recording in the Alert log > Backup strategies > cold/offline – backup “on foot” > backup with the Recovery Manager (“RMAN”) > automating backup with RMAN scripts > Recovery procedures > complete database recovery from one backup Duration 1 day

8

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Thematic Workshops.

Product Training. Web Conferences.

International Sizing Portal iSize – Introduction to the Use of the Portal Objective During this Basic course, you‘ll learn about the user interface of the iSize Portal and the fundamental functions for analyzing serial measurement data to support solid decision-making in product and market development. Special attention will be paid to practising the adaptation and optimization of company specific sizes tables, using problematical issues from actual company practice as examples.

Previous knowledge A basic knowledge of Windows and application programs is desirable.

Content > The user interface and basic functions of the iSize Portal > The flexible definition of the target group to be evaluated > The definition and statistical evaluation of body dimensions > Standard sizes tables and market share evaluations > Input options and evaluations for company-specific target groups > Creating and modifying individual tables of sizes > Determination of individual market shares for the created tables of sizes > Procedural methods for the optimization of tables of sizes > Country-specific sizes and re-labeling Duration 1 day

Optimizing company-specific tables of sizes with the iSize Portal Objective During this course you‘ll learn how to use the iSize Portal to adapt and optimize your own tables of sizes for your target market. This course is for those who use the iSize Portal in-house and are familiar with the optimization of company or product-specific sizes tables for individual target groups.

Previous knowledge Successful participation in the “Introduction to the Use of the iSize Portal” or users of the SizeGERMANY Portal.

Technical knowledge of the setup/layout of sizes systems, grading and pattern construction would be advantageous and a basic knowledge of Windows and application programs is desirable.

Content > The rational input of individual sizes tables into the iSize Portal, using typical examples (text boxes, serial sizes, individual sizes) > Defining the areas of validity for characteristic measurements as a foundation for calculating market share > Product-specific definition of characteristic/secondary measurements and their influence on the calculation of the market share > Evaluation of the overlapping of individual sizes, types of figure and serial sizes, or of gaps within the table of sizes > Methodical approach to optimization and practical execution in the iSize Portal > Determination of secondary measurements for individual tables of sizes and using these for the testing and adjustment of skip values > Using the relationships between body dimensions for the optimization of individual tables of sizes > Comparing individual tables of sizes with standard tables Upon request, this course can be held on your company site in the form of an individual training course. Please let us know your training and learning requirements!

Duration 1 day

9

iSize – Introduction to the use of the Portal, based on the company-specific table of sizes and the individual target customer profile Objective During this Basic course, you‘ll learn about the user interface of the iSize Portal and the fundamental functions for analyzing serial measurement data to support solid decision-making in product and market development.

Your own individual table of sizes and your companyspecific target customer profile are integrated into the Portal beforehand and used as a basis for this course.

In a first evaluation step, the market shares for your company-specific table are calculated. Then the initial starting points for the optimization of the companyspecific table are identified and explained.

Previous knowledge A basic knowledge of Windows and application programs is desirable.

Content > Implementing individual target customer profile into iSize > Analyzing the market share for your own table of sizes > Visualizing your own in-house table of sizes in iSize, evaluating the areas of coverage > Discussion on the starting points for the optimization of your own table of sizes > Using the company-specific table of sizes in other countries No. of participants Company-specific course with a maximum of 6 participants from one company.

Duration 1 day

10

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Thematic Workshops.

Product Training. Web Conferences.

Made-to-Measure Grading Made-to-Measure with mtm.assyst Objective This course will teach you how to work with the assyst made-to-measure grading software.

Previous knowledge A basic knowledge of manual pattern construction and grading for made-to-measure, experience in working with cad.assyst in construction and grading.

Content > Defining alterations on already graded pattern pieces > Operating the software for made-to-measure grading > Preparing pattern pieces for made-to-measure grading > Defining MTM markers

INTAILOR Objective From retail trade ordering to the transfer of data to the cutting system. With INTAILOR, orderable materials like outer fabric, lining and buttons, and variations of these with options and sizes are clearly defined by the manufacturer (product catalog). The advantage here is that only perfect retail trade orders can be generated. An order like this is electronically processed until its transfer to the cutting system. Existing systems can also be easily individualized in the process, from the receipt of the order right through to the CAD MtM module.

Previous knowledge This course is particularly suited to persons holding responsible positions within customized clothing divisions/departments in vertically oriented companies.

Duration 2 – 3 days Content > Creating a product catalog with INTAILOR CatalogCreator for retail trade orders with INTAILOR Shop > Handling customer data and retail trade orders with INTAILOR Shop > Performing administration and evaluations in the retail trade with INTAILOR ShopAdmin > The further processing of orders in the Backoffice with INTAILOR OrderManager > From 3D scan to grading sizes and alterations with INTAILOR CadCamManager Duration 2 – 3 days

11

Individual Laying and Material Usage Basic course – Creating markers Objective This course will teach you the basic functions of lay. assyst, using typical working procedures in the creation of markers.

Previous knowledge Product knowledge.

Content > Preparing and defining markers: Explanation of the most important options in style definition and marker definition > The most important lay.assyst functions for laying markers > Outputting markers on your plotter and cutter > Various marker directories > Marker reports This course is also available for the technical textiles segment.

Duration 2 days

Advanced training course – Creating markers Objective This course will expand your current knowledge of lay.assyst with more functions for the optimal laying of markers.

Previous knowledge Successful participation in the “Creating markers” Basic course and some working knowledge of lay.assyst.

Content > Details of styles and marker definition > Using create.maker or CaMa for the calculation of markers > Tackling more complex lay.assyst functions > The various gap possibilities (gap, segment gap, gap table …) > Block tables* > Matching pieces to plaids and stripes

12

> Creating and using batch files > for calculating markers > for outputting markers on plotters and cutters > Creating parameter templates with create.marker, CaMa and plot.entry > Marker reports * must be available on the customer‘s system

This course is also available for the technical textiles segment.

Duration 2 days

automarker.com Objective During this intensive and comprehensive course, you will learn how markers can be automatically laid with automarker.com.

Previous knowledge Marker preparation on the system with which data is to be sent to automarker.com (cad.assyst or other available software for automarker.com).

Content > Preparing a marker on the CAD system > Sending laying jobs to automarker.com > Uploading automatically placed markers > Automatic uploading to automarker.com from create.marker or CaMa* > Laying strategies with automarker.com (plaids and stripes, laying bundles, color zones…) > Downloading of positioned markers with automarker.com > Creating and modifying profiles (parameter settings) > Data conversion possibilities with other systems using automarker.com * must be available on the customer‘s system (from cad.assyst Version 8)

Duration 1 day

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Thematic Workshops.

Product Training. Web Conferences.

Product Life Cycle Management Basic course – plm4cad Objective This course will teach you how to manage your CAD data with our plm4cad software.

Previous knowledge A basic knowledge of the apparel sector, plus experience with your own product range and in-house workflows.

Content > Setting up a framework collection plan > Presentation of the structured layout, including > model description with master records like pattern maker, designer, material, season, size range and graphical information (scanned fabrics, sketches, etc.) > CAD style definition sheet with integration into the cad.assyst database > marker list with integration into the cad.assyst database and images of mini plots > sizes tables: various types of sizes tables, creation of sizes tables using standard macros (Mt_Def)* > try-on protocol > Creating libraries > Sending model documentation by e-mail > Document management for a specific model, like e-mails from manufacturers, acceptance reports of field technicians, etc. > Finding styles, cuts and markers that match individual criteria * Must be available on the customer‘s system.

Duration 5 days – incl. installation and adaptation 3 days – without installation and adaptation

Oracle Database Administration for plm.assyst Objective This course will teach you how to work with Oracle databases: installing the Oracle software, setting up and maintaining Oracle database instances, an introduction to the SQL structured query language and using the Oracle backup and recovery tools.

Previous knowledge You must have experience in the system administration of Windows or UNIX servers.

Content > Technical overview and architecture, management tools > SQLplus and Enterprise Manager > Oracle installation, operation and maintenance > software installation, creating a database with DVCA and/or templates > system parameters, SPFILE, startup and shutdown methods > user-authentication, privileged access via SYSDBA > Oracle network setup > configuration of LISTENER/startup/shutdown > DB connections: TNSnames/EZconnect > Configuration/Sizing > sizes allocation/monitoring of table spaces and data files > configuration of UNDO, REDO and Archivelog mode > The structured query language SQL > SELECT statements, transaction logic > INSERT/UPDATE/DELETE/COMMIT/ROLLBACK > creating TABLES and VIEWS, Data Dictionary Views > Monitoring and Diagnosis > Enterprise Manager performance views, advisors, AWR reports > analysis of blocked sessions and deadlocks > event recording in the Alert log > BACKUP strategies > cold/offline – backup “on foot” > backup with the Recovery Manager (“RMAN”) > automating backup with RMAN scripts

13

> Recovery procedures > recovering lost data banks (e.g. after a hardware crash) > Inputting “cold” and “online” backups > complete database recovery from one backup > incomplete recovery, e.g. due to logical errors, or the chronological resetting of a database Duration 3 days

Corel for Fashion Objective Working with CorelDRAW in plm.assyst. Scale technical drawings in the building blocks system. This course, based on easily-understood theory and practical examples will teach you how to work with CorelDRAW in the fashion sector.

Previous knowledge A basic knowledge of Windows and application programs is desirable.

CorelDRAW Administrator Course Objective Configuration of CorelDRAW Graphics Suite for working in a design team.

Previous knowledge This seminar is suitable for (network) administrators, those responsible for systems and/or products and any interested persons in a similar position.

Content > Packaging/distributing the software > Configuring the software components for the design process includes: > the organization of templates, patterns, symbols, tools and settings > integration with plm.assyst > time-tested solutions for problems Duration 1 day

Content > CorelDRAW desktop > Creating technical drawings > Creating and saving seam lines > Using a sketchbook > Working with color > Filling objects with color and patterns Duration 2 days

14

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Thematic Workshops.

Product Training. Web Conferences.

System System Implementation – Organization of a System Objective The objective of this training and consultancy session is the adaptation of the assyst system to match the production processes of your company. We highly recommend that you attend this session before your system is implemented. Even after the system has been running for a while, this training and consultancy session can achieve a marked improvement in the way you work with and utilize your system.

Previous knowledge Knowledge of your own product range and in-house workflows.

Content > Overview of the various assyst products and working procedures > Modifying the parameter and system settings to match in-house requirements > Introduction to data organization > Specifying piece, style, marker and model names* > Defining attributes* > Setting plot parameters for the output devices * only for systems with a database (expert/advanced+/unix)

Duration 1 day

Administration for Windows Objective During this course, you‘ll learn how our assyst software works together with the Windows operating system – and you‘ll become familiar with the care, maintenance and management of your system in relation to the assyst programs.

Previous knowledge Knowledge of assyst applications would be advantageous; special IT skills are not required.

Content > Creating an assyst user > The start.assyst program bar > The license manager > The assyst data directory structure and working with Windows Explorer > Working with different customer environments (contexts) > Managing data with data.net > data reports > display of database entries – pieces, styles and models (data.pilot)* > deleting data > copying data > Data Backup with backup.assyst* > The most important parameters in the assyst programs > Editing parameters in config.tool > Parameter templates in create.marker and plot.entry > Creating and modifying configuration files like Attributes**/Messages/Sizes > All the important settings for output to plotter or cutter > Managing print jobs > Discussion on protocols and log files > Data exchange between assyst systems with data. packer* * only for systems with a database (advanced+/expert) ** if available

Duration 1.5 days

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System Administration for UNIX 10

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System Administration for UNIX 11

Objective During this course, you‘ll learn how our assyst software works together with the UNIX 10x operating system – and you‘ll become familiar with the care, maintenance and management of your system in relation to the assyst programs.

Objective During this course, you‘ll learn how our assyst software works together with the UNIX 11x operating system – and you‘ll become familiar with the care, maintenance and management of your system in relation to the assyst programs.

Previous knowledge Knowledge of the assyst applications is advantageous, but special IT skills are not required.

Previous knowledge Knowledge of the assyst applications is advantageous, but special IT skills are not required.

Content > Creating a user with Eddi > Working with different customer environments (customer) > VUE user interface > The assyst data directory structure > Simple system control: disk space assignment, process monitoring > Managing Data with data.net > data reports > display of database entries – pieces, styles and models (data.pilot)* > deleting data > copying data > Important UNIX commands > Using the vi Editor, e.g. to create batch files > Data backup > Transferring data > The most important parameters in the assyst programs > Permanently changing the system parameters of the various customer environments > Creating and modifying configuration files like Attributes**/Messages/Sizes > Using Alternative Attributes**/Messages/Sizes > All the important settings for output to plotter or cutter > UNIX print commands > Management of print jobs (Scheduler) > Calculating markers with UNIX commands or CaMa > Discussion on protocols and log files > Exchanging data between assyst systems with TDI*

Content > Creating a user with the User Manager > Working with different customer environments (contexts) > CDE user interface > The assyst data directory structure > Simple system control: disk space assignment, process monitoring > Managing Data with data.net > data reports > display of database entries – pieces, styles and models (data.pilot)* > deleting data > copying data > Important UNIX commands > Using the vi Editor, e.g. to create batch files > Data backup > Transferring data > The most important parameters in the assyst programs > Permanently changing the system parameters of the various customer environments > Creating and modifying configuration files like Attributes**/Messages/Sizes > Using Alternative Attributes**/Messages/Sizes > All the important settings for output to plotter or cutter > UNIX print commands > Management of print jobs (Scheduler) > Calculating markers with UNIX commands or CaMa > Discussion on protocols and log files > Exchanging data between assyst systems with TDI*

* only for systems with a database ** Must be available on the customer‘s system

* only for systems with a database ** Must be available on the customer‘s system

Duration 2 days

Duration 2 days

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Thematic Workshops.

Product Training. Web Conferences.

Data Conversion and Transfer Data conversion Objective During this course, you‘ll learn how to use tools to exchange data between the assyst system and the systems of other CAD suppliers.

Previous knowledge Successful participation in a Compact course or in a Digitizing/Construction/Modification Basic course or a sound working knowledge of cad.assyst.

For companies that import or export graded pieces, knowledge of grading is necessary.

Content > Overview of the conversion options between the assyst system and other CAD systems > Importing data (AAMA, ASTM, DXF, native data from Gerber, Investronica, Lectra and Microdynamics) > using the installed data conversion module > settings options > post-processing imported data in cad.assyst > Exporting data (to AAMA, ASTM or DXF format) > preparing data in cad.assyst > exporting data > settings options To enable us to adapt our training course to match your company profile perfectly, please send us some of your data up front.

Data Transfer with other assyst Systems Objective During this course, you‘ll learn how to exchange data between two assyst systems using the TDI application program (or data.packer) – and you‘ll be given practical pointers to put you on the road to a successful partnership.

Previous knowledge Successful participation in a Compact course or in a Digitizing/Construction/Modification Basic course, or a sound working knowledge of cad.assyst.

Content > The principle of data exchange with a partner > Data export > configuration files or information you have to send to your partner when you initiate a new connection > what to do if your partner has a different software version > selecting the data to be exported > sending data > Importing Data > creating a special customer environment with your partner‘s configuration files, when you receive his data for the first time > receiving data > more methods Duration 0.5 days

Duration 0.5 – 1 day

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Web Conferences and Web Training Our Web Conferences provide you with important knowledge about our products in compact form. Our Web Training is more intensive, giving you an extensive all-round knowledge of our products. A session normally lasts around 90 minutes. The number of participants is limited to 10. You receive a live presentation via Internet and telephone – and you can ask questions too. All you need on the technical side is a phone, an Internet connection and a laptop or PC. Please note: participation in Web Conferences is free, but we do charge a nominal fee for Web Training sessions. You will receive all your access info when you register online at www.assyst.de or by phone on +49-89-90505-123.

3D Visualization & Simulation vidya: from model pattern design to evaluation of the virtual model Target group Pattern makers, designers and product managers in the apparel sector.

Content > Preparing the model patterns > The virtual fabric – attributes and textures > The virtual model – silhouette control and the overall effect > The virtual try-on – distributes tasks, decisions made together

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International Sizing Portal iSize – an overview of the International Data Portal Target group Responsible persons and interested persons who are involved in Sales and Marketing and Product Development in companies which sell their products on a global scale.

Content > Defining target groups > Analysis of body dimensions > Defining and optimizing tables of sizes > Evaluating shares of the market > Pricing model

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Thematic Workshops. Product Training.

Web Conferences.

Made-to-Measure Shares of the market – definition, bases for calculation, uses Target group Companies which use the iSize Portal in-house.

Content > Definition and significance of the term “share of the market” > Difference between absolute and relative shares of the market > Areas covered by the standard tables of sizes > Bases of calculation for shares of the market for menswear, ladies‘ wear and children‘s clothing > Significance and utilization of the trading forecast for shop stocks

Tips and tricks for defining and entering your own target group in the iSize Portal

INTAILOR To achieve success with customized clothing production is a special challenge for clothing manufacturers. Contemporary and top-quality individual production, linked with the shortest possible individual order finishing timespans, calls for totally dependable software – one that supports the entire process chain, from the planning of the first collection to final delivery of the unique items of clothing.

Part 1 – Introduction to the INTAILOR system solution Target group Persons holding responsible positions (and interested persons) in a vertically-oriented apparel manufacturing company.

Content > Benefits of usage for the company > Structure of the system solution > Principle of INTAILOR > Demonstration of the solution Part 2 – Application of INTAILOR at the POS

Target group Companies which use the iSize Portal in-house.

Content > Detailed presentation of the target group filter > Mapping of the area of validity of a company-specific table of sizes in the target group filter > Limiting the test persons to the valid area encompassing one size, one type of figure and/or one serial size > The importance of the overlapping of individual sizes, types of figure and serial sizes, or of gaps within the table of sizes > Procedural methods for the optimization of tables of sizes > The significance of the calculated secondary measurements for individual tables of sizes and using these for the testing and adjustment of skip values > Using the relationships between body dimensions for the optimization of individual tables of sizes > Comparing individual tables of sizes with standard tables of sizes

Target group Persons holding responsible positions (and interested persons) in a vertically-oriented apparel manufacturing company.

Content > Procedure with and without slip-on sizes > The collection > The customer at the POS > The order from the POS to the manufacturer > Call for an appointment!

Part 3 – Introduction of INTAILOR within the company Target group Persons holding responsible positions (and interested persons) in a vertically-oriented apparel manufacturing company.

Content > The principle – procedure with and without slip-on sizes > The product catalog – presentation at the POS > The Backoffice – what has to be done?

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Individual Layout & Material Usage The structured laying of markers with automarker.com (incl. stripes/plaids) Target group Anyone in the branch for whom quality is paramount.

Content > Why the structured laying of markers? > How can I create piece groups? > How do I create a fusing block? > What must I bear in mind for plaids and stripes?

Product Life Cycle Management plm.assyst for first-time users Target group Interested persons and plm.assyst customers.

Content > Model description > Piece lists > Calculation > Workflow

Quality Management with plm.assyst Creating plot/cut files with automarker.com Target group Anyone who works with plotters and cutters.

Content > How do I set line types? > Can I set various different types of drill holes and notch types? > Plotting of sizes, style and piece names, free texts > Can I influence the plot or cut path (i.e. optimize it)? > Can I change the scale? > New producer: plotter/cutter type unknown – what now?

Cut Order Planning Preliminary costing with autocost.

What‘s NEW?

Target group Interested persons and plm.assyst customers.

Content > Prototype assessment > Duplication approval > Merchandise acceptance test with error catalog

Workflow Management with plm.assyst Target group Interested persons and plm.assyst customers.

Content > Process mapping > Automation of routine activities > Data validation

Target group Anyone who wants more efficient preliminary costing.

Content > Why preliminary costing? > How can I achieve more accurate preliminary costing? > Comparing preliminary costing and actual production > The latest functions for order optimization

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

> Adidas > Ahlers Group > Akris > Alison Hayes > Allsport > Altwell > Alvanon > Ambiente > Anckart > Andrea Moden > Anita > Apriori > Astex KFT > Atelier Goldner Schnitt > Atelier Torino > Augustat > Avantgarde > Avicenna > BAF Woman > Basler > Bauerfeind > Bäumler > Ben Barton > Bendon > Berwin & Wolff > Bestform Foundations > Betty Barclay > Biba > Bierbaum Proenen > Bleyle Underwear > Bogner > Bosch Textil > Brax > Bristol Uniforms > Bültel Bekleidungswerke > Bundesverband des Deutschen Versandhandels > Burda > Butterick Company Inc. > C & A > Cabelas > Calida Bodywear > Casa Moda > Cavita > Centre de Recherche Primiles > Charles Vögele > Charmor > China Chengdu Uniform > Cinque > Crönert > Dahlinghauser Bekleidungswerke > Delmod > Dessous dessus Design > Detlev Louis > Diesel > Dinotex > Discovery > DK ProFashion > Dresdner Herrenmode > Dressler > Drykorn > DuPont > Elégance > Elkroij > E-One > EPAS > Erfo > Escada > ESGE > Esprit > Estare Culto > Eterna > Eurodress > Evelin Brandt Mode > Falke > Felix T. Wolf > Feuchter > Frank Henke > Frank Walder > Franke & Schulte > Frankenwälder > Freeman T. Porter > Fritz Hiltl > Fuchs & Schmitt > GAD Modevertrieb > Gerke & Söhne > Gerry Weber > Gil Bret > Gin Tonic > Gore > Gorenska Oblacila > Görtz-Welsch Modedesign > Gössl > Hauber > Heinecke & Klaproth > Heinrich Katt > Helsaform > Henne Country Moden > Hermann Lange > Herrnböck > Hersfelder Kleiderwerke > Hinrichs > Hirsch > Home Shopping Europe > Hubermasche > Hüren > Hugo Boss > Jack Wolfskin > JCK > Jes Fashion > Jetset > Jil Sander > Jockey > Josef Geis Herrenkleiderfabrik > Julius Zöllner > Jutec > JVA Aichach > K & L Ruppert > Kalocsai KFT > Kamlah > Karstadt > Katag > Katt > Kaufhof > Kentucky > Kentucky Reitmoden > KiK Textilien > Kirsten Mode Design > Klein Eugen > Köhler & Krenzer > Koppe > Krateks d.d. > KTC Limited > Kurbus Anton > Laurel > Le-go > Leineweber > Leithäuser > Lerros Moden > Lidl > Lodenfrey > Löffler > Lowa Sportschuhe > Madeleine Mode > Makyta > Mammut > Marc Aurel > Marc Cain > Marc O‘Polo > Margarete Steiff > März > Matteo Dosso > Max Mara > Mehler Vario System > Merk > Metro Group > Mey > Miles Fashion > Milon industries > Mo Koshij > Modeinstitut Berlin > Mopan Alken > More & More > Mr. K > Mura > Murk > Mustang > Naturana > Neckermann > New Yorker > Nikatex > NKD > Noel > Nur Die > Odermark > Olnetex > Olsen > Otto > Otto Schuler > Oui > Paulina > Peek & Cloppenburg > Peine Gruppe > Peter Hahn > Pirintex > Pomarfin > Premium Bodywear > Priess Modelle > Primera > Promtex > ProPat > Public Bekleidungs Design > Quelle > QVC > Rabe Moden > Rena Lange > René Lezard > RHM Pants SRL > Riani > Rieder Moden > Robert Klingel > Rofa Moden > Rösch > Rosner > Roy Robson > s.Oliver > S.C. Catex > S.C. Evil > S.C. Moda > S.C. Moda Tim > S.C. Modconf > S.C. Mode > S.C. Tarnava > S‘Mode > Saniwo Textil > Schiesser > Schneider Sportswear > Schneiders > Schöffel > Seeler Simatex > Seidensticker > Sigikid > Singhoff > Sonja Maron > Speidel > St. Emile > Stehmann > Steitz Secury > Stiff Windisch > Strellson > Strenesse > Stresemann > Styl > Sulu > Sunflair > Swing > Tac Tic`s > Tchibo > Textilkontor W. Seidensticker > Tom Tailor > Toni Dress > Trachtenmanufaktur Grasegger > Trendline > Tricia Jones > Trigema > Triumph > Trixi Schober > TU Dresden, Institut für Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik > Tuzzi > Uli Schneider > Ulla Popken > Van Laack > Vartex > Vaude > Vera Mont > Verpass > Votan > Wabo Textil > Wahler > Walbrzych International > Walbusch > Walker > Walter Krines > WIWEB > Wilhelmshavener Bekleidungswerke > Willax > Willy Maisel > Windsor > Wintex-Apparel > Workfashion.com > Württembergisches Staatstheater > Zascita Ptuj > Zaza

Leading companies work with assyst

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The world is digital

With his vision of a seamless digital and global development process, Dr. Andreas Seidl is leading assyst and Human Solutions to success and encouraging the apparel sector to ring in a new era.

The anthropometrics and ergonomics expert presents his product philosophy in fashion 01 and illustrates how technology can pave the way to the future for the apparel sector.

Dr Andreas Seidl is Managing Director of the assyst GmbH and the Human Solutions GmbH.

fashion 01: What do assyst and Human Solutions have in common?

The company

Seidl: An idea and a common market philosophy. Our idea is to make our customers competitive through our technology. “Your business first” is our strategy program for realizing this idea. The philosophy that our products are strategic tools is concealed behind the program. Each product brings its own added value with it. When these products are interconnected in a seamless process, the advantages are dramatically increased. assyst has the software into which Human Solutions integrates real, representative body dimensions. fashion 01: What conceptions about the apparel markets of the future lie behind this philosophy?

Markets of the future

Seidl: We assume that the sector will become still more global. If that proves to be the case, it will no longer affect production alone – it will also have a major impact on product development. Verticalization will go from strength to strength and the pressure generated by time-to-market and the number of design variations will increase. All this will lead to an even faster increase in

36

the complexity already prevalent in product development today. Whether or not an apparel company is fit for the future depends on how it handles these megatrends and the complexities such trends create. We are the only technology manufacturer on the market which helps companies to achieve their aims. fashion 01: In your opinion, what is the most cuttingedge technical trend which a company should have?

Trends

Seidl: Virtual sample manufacturing. Experience has shown that the later you change a design during the development phase, the more expensive that change is going to be. This is why working with – and the coordination of – virtual prototypes is an important means of saving costs.

Add to this the fact that even a medium-sized apparel company with a smaller product portfolio can no longer create samples for all its products if it has 12 or more collections in the year. A sample section nowadays, including working time costs, can cost up to 4,000EUR. That is much too expensive and time-consuming. And it‘s also the reason why it is so important to have all your data in digital form. The future will certainly see physical

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Dr. Andreas Seidl, Managing Director assyst and Human Solutions

samples – but only based on the central items in a collection. All the basics will be simulated in high quality on virtual, but completely realistic models.

The role model here again could be the automotive industry. They digitally simulate all their product images for configurators, advertizing and sales – even before the first vehicle has left the series production line. assyst and Human Solutions together offer the apparel industry the corresponding simulation quality. fashion 01: How would you rate the competitive situation of assyst?

Competition

Seidl: In its quality class, assyst is more or less on its own. We envision large international manufacturers on the market some of whom will be new to the sector.

In a high-volume industry like apparel, companies like this have little time to focus on the individual strategic themes of their customers. There are smaller, local suppliers in some target countries – but they don‘t even come close to having the necessary strategic know-how to develop a seamless, integrated product portfolio, one which can effectively meet and beat the diverse challenges which the apparel sector will have to face. As premium suppliers, we actually fill the gaps left by our competitors, offering our customers integrated solutions to match their process requirements in every way. fashion 01: Where does this show, for example?

Advantages

Seidl: At assyst and Human Solutions we are abso­lutely painstaking when it comes to the development of solutions together with our customers. In addition, assyst is no longer tied to any specific hardware brand and can

therefore provide support for numerous cutters. Our customers can thus choose the best cutter and use assyst software with confidence at the same time. fashion 01: You mentioned the megatrends time-tomarket and globalization. What do you envisage for these trends?

Vision

Seidl: In three years, today‘s conventional separation of 3D, CAD and PLM will simply not exist for assyst. All the departments of an apparel company will benefit from having one central data pool. 2D will still be used for design, of course; but it will also form the foundation for creating completely representative simulations of electronic catalogs and websites. There will be no optical difference between reality and onscreen simulation.

Thanks to our software for mass customization, the virtual concept can function as far as the stores and online shops in future. In the company, PLM is the monitoring system which integrates all data and programs. Models will be checked in vidya. The creation of samples will no longer exist. A business partner somewhere in the world will be working in CAD design to modify fabric attributes, for example – and what he changes can be easily traced, because the data in question never leaves the company, even when it‘s directly transferred to the cutter. To develop the apparel of the future, an extremely accurate image of the customer must be integrated into product development. This can either be done relying on relevant experience or using real sizes which will be available in digital form.

Today, thanks to its fit portals and body scanners, Human Solutions is able to offer such a database – and assyst integrates it into its software. This means that practically anything is possible.

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Made-to-Measure

Win Win

Win

A win-win situation occurs when everyone involved has more to gain than lose. In other words, both sides win. This particularly applies to mass customization (the mass-produced manufacture of customized apparel, not individual made-to-measure tailoring).

Mass customization is a new and evolutionary step in industrialization. It enables the manufacture of individual products and it forms a seamless process which links the trade and end customers directly with production. All three market participants win. Used consistently, the mass made-to-measure concept (MtM) by Human Solutions and assyst is also multichannel-capable.

No-risk production The advantages of mass customization are obvious: In manufacture, the pre-financing of material and working time become obsolete. The manufacturer develops a sample collection with as many versions and variations as required – but he only produces merchandize that he‘s already sold. That has an effect on pricing. In the classic, ready-made clothing sector, companies expect that 30% of their collections will not be sold. Risk add-ons also lead to higher trade prices. A garment that costs EUR10 to manufacture is sold to vendors for EUR100. This means more risk add-ons... and the end customer then has to pay EUR260 for the garment. In contrast, mass

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customization products are always sold – 100% and with no risk involved. This is a fact which almost totally compensates for the higher production costs involved in batch size 1.

Higher margins in the stores The risk for stores is also reduced. The only merchandize ordered has already been sold. Unnecessary merchandize no longer has to be stored in the warehouse. Only a small showroom or a small area of storage space is needed for even the largest of sales portfolios. Discount sales at the end of the season are no longer necessary.

Margins increase. At the same time, there are no more size & fit problems – they simply do not exist. Product configuration is digital and is imported directly at the manufacturer‘s. This avoids errors caused by illegible writing or misunderstandings, for instance.

The right suit for the same price It‘s the customer, however, who profits most. His pur­ chase is always successful. He gets exactly the garment he wants, time and time again. “We‘re sold out of your size, sorry“, is something he will never have to hear again – and because the risk-generated price markups from manufacturer and the retail trade no longer exist, mass customization products can be sold for almost the same price as off-the-peg garments.

The idea of individualizing products isn‘t really new; automotive industry sales divisions have been using vehicle configurators for customers for some years now.

In the apparel industry, however, individualization like this is much more complicated. To set up the process,

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

you have to know the exact body dimensions of the future wearer – but before the concept of mass customization can achieve recognition on the global market, you need a digital customer.

The virtual customer – a tangible vision Nowadays, ready-made sizes, configurators, CAD and cutters can all be integrated – as can the individual human being in the form of a scanatar. However, if a customer is given only a length of cloth, some accessoires and his measurements and asked to visualize himself in a suit from those three items, he would need the imagination of a professional. So if mass customization is to function properly, the customer must be able to try on his finished suit – before it actually exists. Human Solutions and assyst make this possible. Body scanning – as an important integral part of this modern process – is combined with 3D visualization. This enables the customer to assess onscreen how his suit is going to look.

He saves a lot of time because there‘s no need for try-ons – and this gives him more effective purchasing time.

Remaining competitive in the long-term For brand name manufacturers, the “mass customization“ concept means increased economic scope. It enables intensive customer bonding via the stores and via Internet and telephone for the second and future contacts.

It safe­guards site manufacturing. And it shows its true class exactly where it‘s most needed – in the core values of highgrade apparel – fit, individuality and comfort.

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Mass customization as a seamless process, from shop to delivery

Body scanning: acquiring measurements and the virtual try-on 1.

The customer is scanned in the store. His scan is then transmitted to the manufacturer together with the configured product. An individual 3D avatar, a scanatar, can be immediately created from the scan data. The customer can then assess the fit and effect of his selected items of clothing on his scanatar.

A body scanner can add that ‘touch of class’. Using technology by Human Solutions, Bodymetrics has set up an optimal virtual try-on procedure for jeans in the famous London store, Selfridges. The setup is based on a body scanner and INTAILOR by Human Solutions.

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Odermark uses INTAILOR, a solution for profitable mass customization in the retail trade and industry – more than 50 stores have meanwhile been integrated into the system.

2.

Product configuration: fabric, color, application and accessoires The sales person and the customer put the appropriate garment together in INTAILOR Shop. The customer can choose from various fabrics, colors, cut and style variations – depending of course on the collection of the manufacturer in question. The ideal color combination can be found for outer material and lining, one or two rows of buttons can be selected and the optimal number of pockets specified. Expensive pattern books can be dispensed with. The product catalogs that are stored are always up-to-date. The price of the selected suit is displayed immediately. The customer’s active participation in the selection process means that he chooses the price himself and is always aware of the value involved in a particular fabric or style.

3.

Production: Acquisition of measurements, cut modification, manufacture At the manufacturer’s, INTAILOR Manufacturer converts the customer’s scanned body dimensions into manufacturing sizes for the garment in question and transfers these to MtM assyst, where the item is modified using control parameters based on differentiation sizes. The automation process ensures that the quality of each one-off remains constant. In the case of extreme proportions, manual modifications can also be made. The data is directly imported from the CAD system into the cutter and the item of clothing is then created.

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How to...

Creation of customized apparel – from store to production INTAILOR strengthens competence in customized apparel production: In the store, an intensively individualized garment is created, one with its own price tag – it is a one-off, matching the customer‘s tastes in every way. To do this, the software not only addresses individual measurements, but the posture and personality characteristics of the customer.

The sales person guides the customer step-by-step through the ordering procedure, flanked by the INTAILOR Shop guidance software: he or she can focus entirely on helping and guiding the customer. Having entered the customer data, the sales assistant and the customer decide how the future suit should look – together, on the PC monitor. This includes the selection of fabric and details like buttons, buttonholes and AMF lapels – plus of course, the customer‘s wearing preferences.

The customer is measured by body scanner in a contact-free procedure in a private cabin. Body scanners are ideal to instal. To avoid having to make slip-on sizes, a very high level of accuracy is necessary during measurement and integration of the data into the production process. The measurements are acquired on the 3D scan on the PC in a contact-free procedure. The 3D body scanner and the software take the exact measurements required for the manufacture of the item of clothing in question. In a fully automated procedure, 48 body dimensions are scanned in just a few seconds. The system also recognizes the customer‘s posture.

The final order is then sent straight to the production facility – with just one push of a button. In INTAILOR manufacture, the technical cut-relevant dimensions are converted for the production of the desired item of clothing.

Additional dimensions (measurement variances) no longer have to be taken. Errors can be eliminated, thanks to the automatic check of logical dimension interrelationships. If the manufacturer has any questions or doubts, he can also check the measurements anytime on the “digital customer“ image which he received with the order.

INTAILOR Manufacturer supports sophisticated production and organizational processes – and can also be integra­ ted into established ERP and supply chain management systems. The range of functions includes the creation of consistency-tested catalogs with freely configurable type, quantity and display of variations/versions, and the configuration of the dependence of the components on one another, e.g. the number and types of pocket. The program also takes sizes into consideration, saves the acquired measurements and calculates the cut parameters in accordance with the individual rules and processes of the manufacturer.

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Illustration 1: Documenting contact data

Illustration 2: Displaying the body dimensions

Illustration 3: Selection of fabric

Illustration 4: Selecting buttons

Illustration 5: Determining sleeve length in accordance with individual wearer comfort

Illustration 6: Determining pant length in accordance with individual wearer comfort

Illustration 7: Summarizing the order

Illustration 8: Checking sizes on the 3D scan at the manufacturer's

Illustration 9: Creating and updating the catalog at the manufacturer's

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Individual Laying & Material Usage

Laying let the software do it!

Correct laying techniques save on material costs without sacrificing quality – no matter which pattern or material is being used. And the right software can do even more: It enables direct communication with production partners and converts the various different data formats.

Thus the simple laying of a marker becomes a wholly integrated process between manufacturer and supplier.

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

For all markers

Covering peak loads

Company: Oui Gruppe GmbH & Co. KG Mr. Chaim Schipper Oui has been using assyst‘s complete range of products for more than 10 years.

Company: René Lezard Mode GmbH Mr. Daniel Clocuh René Lezard has been a customer of automarker.com since 2001.

“ We use automarker.com for nearly all our laying tasks.“

“ When markers begin to pile up, automarker.com is the first choice.“

“ We have worked with the automarker.com program right from the start. At the beginning we actually only used it for laying pocket bags – but now assyst‘s automarker.com with its On-Demand service definitely belongs to the Champions‘ League of laying software.

It gives our employees in the marker department more time to focus on the really complex laying tasks, like difficult repeat fabrics. All the rest is done with automarker.com. The good thing is that the program never has a bad day, we can entirely depend on it.

The quality it produces is always consistent. And the new function smart.placement also reinforces our good opinion of automarker.com.“

“ Our specialist teams can normally cover our requirements satisfactorily with the stationary laying software – but at peak times, when CPD and Fashion Week are due, or if we have a lot of people at home sick, neither our manpower nor our computer capacity is enough to handle the situation. Then we bring automarker.com on board. If we can use our expertise in targeted fashion, we still do it all manually, but everything else is done in fully automated processes via the Internet. In just a few minutes, automarker.com calculates even the more complex markers and saves them in almost all of the standard output formats. Thanks to the assyst service, we can adapt our IT and staff planning to our normal requirements, we don‘t have to plan based on peak load periods. This saves us money and when it comes to the crunch we don‘t lose any time.“

“ automarker.com is simply the best product assyst has – and I like them all.“

“ automarker.com complements our IT strategy in the best possible ways.“

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Fashion has

many faces The fashion industry is like no other international sector. Communication isn’t always easy. There’s a multitude of languages and various different software and hardware from a wide range of manufacturers – but automarker.com knows them all. And it’s not just the laying program that is structured – communication is perfectly organized as well.

Markers can be directly e-mailed to partners online or activated in automarker.com. An anonymous world map thus becomes an international network of many names.

46

Legen

Felfektetés

Marking

Country

Germany

Hungary

Exchange format

assyst, ISO Cutfile

ISO Cutfile

MicroDynamics Marker

Cutter/Plotter

Topcut Bullmer Turbo Cut

Gerber GT 3250

Cutting Edge

Country

England

China

India

Exchange format

Gerber

HPGL Plotfile

AAMA

Cutter/Plotter

AP700

Mutoh

Algotex

Country

Italy

Exchange format

Lectra

HPGL Plotfile

HPGL Plotfile

Cutter/Plotter

Lectra Vector Series

Hewlett Packard (Plotter)

Zünd/Wild L Series

Marking

Marchiatura

Germany

Legen

America

Turkey

Marking

Yerletirmek

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

smart.placement test by Betty Barclay

smart.p la

cement: as if you‘d la id it manually –

only faster.

Company: Betty Barclay – Pro Fashion GmbH Ms. Edda Scholz Betty Barclay has been working intensively with automarker.com for the last ten years.

“

Just a few years ago in our production division, we were still carrying out the laying of markers almost exclusively with partners and suppliers. All we did in-house was the definition of specifications for usage calculation.

Optimization and the laying of markers was left to our partners.

Now, thanks to the innovation of the “Rubberband“* function in automarker.com, we can group our specifi­ cations in a formula which we can copy and use for subsequent markers as often as we wish. This means we can specifically address each model and every item, whether it be sample templates or color runs.

Now, thanks to automarker.com, we can determine the material requirements of individual models at an early stage. This enables us to create an early projection of the total expected material requirements – and to keep an eye on the costs involved as well.

Our calculated fabric usage totals can also be adhered to in production, thanks to order-related optimization with ‘cost‘ and the creation of markers with automarker.com.

Our experiences as a pilot customer:

The specifications of ladies‘ wear are becoming increasingly challenging – and for these items we were using a special, extremely time-consuming, laying technology.

When Rubberband was introduced, the automarker team‘s support was outstanding. The experts responded to our recommendations and requests and adapted the system to match our requirements where possible.

The new method of block creation enabled us to implement our specifications and we even partially improved usage in comparison to manual laying procedures.

If the formula is defined during the calculation of usage, it can be copied into Production, and again this gives us a time-saving advantage.

“

* During the automatic creation of markers, “Rubberband“ offers lots of flexible scope when the gaps between pieces are being

processed. Just as in manual placement, a tolerance area is defined, similar to a rubber band instead of inflexible rules. The gaps between pieces can thus be individually adjusted.

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How to...

Laying markers with automarker.com Login and Start: automarker.com creates a password and SSL-protected environment for you. You can either log in on the Homepage or you can start the service via cad.assyst.

You‘ll find user manuals and White Papers in the program‘s comprehensive library.

Uploading markers Using the Fileselector, you select markers for editing directly from your CAD software.

A click on the “Send“ button starts the marker transfer procedure.

When the upload procedure has been confirmed, the markers are transferred straight to automatic laying – you can see them on the Status page.

Status of marker laying: Automated placing starts immediately and the marker status changes to “Calculating“.

The “Preview Mode“ gives you a look at the current interim status of the laying process. In the background, the spreading algorithm continues to calculate the placing of the pieces until an optimal result is obtained.

The Preview is refreshed regularly. > Illustration 1 After processing, (Status “Finished“), the laid markers are available for download in the defined formats. You can select CAD, plot or cutter formats, or you can download the results as a PDF file. > Illustration 2 You can also design your own marker reports. The marker in PDF format with its Zoom function is the ideal medium for in-house or external communication with the production plants. > Illustration 3 Marker sharing: The finished task can now be directly allocated to the production plant. Your production partner receives notification by e-mail and can download the allocated data using his own login from the password-secured environment. > Illustration 4 You can use the settings to configure language, units of measurement, notifications, laying profiles and more for your particular customer environment. Using itemized information, the Statistics area shows you exactly what you have already done with automarker.com.

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Illustration 1: Current interim status of your marker

Illustration 2: Exporting from the marker overview in all popular formats

Illustration 3: PDF with Zoom function

Illustration 4: Straightforward transfer of markers to the production plant

49

IN

OUT

Increase your profits thanks to a reduction in manufacturing costs. Material costs in sales

Unnecessary selling price increases. Material

of EUR60 million amount to roughly EUR18 million.

So every saved percentage point = EUR180,000.

Start saving even before purchasing. Do not purchase any superfluous material. This will save money and avoid the unnecessary warehousing of fabric remnants.

Know your preliminary costing from A to Z. If you know your framework factors, like laying, plies, fabric and cutter widths and sizes key, you will achieve optimal results.

costs amount to at least 30% of the selling price.

Material allowances that are too high simply push up the price – and it‘s not even necessary.

Trying to save at the test manufacturing stage. If the material is already available, savings can no longer have any financial effect. The fabric remains with the partners, is warehoused and can seldom be reused.

Preliminary costing with 2-size markers. This

Improve awareness of costs. Provide feedback

type of material forecasting leaves too many issues unsolved – and that means several percentage points per ply. So significantly more fabric than necessary is being ordered.

to Sales, Technical Work Preparation and Finishing to save costs.

Allowing for too much fabric. Many apparel manufacturers are cautious about this issue – and they order around 10% more material than they actually need.

50

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Cut Order Planning

Get lucky, leave it to chance or...

use autocost

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Less can mean

more

Digital process reliability revolutionizes preliminary costing. From actual, positioned markers, the program can create an exact forecast of future fabric usage (with the relevant additional information and intelligent software support). In contrast to making a rough (or educated) guess at the amount of future material usage, autocost takes the weighting of sizes, material attributes and production environment into consideration.

Fabric is seldom returned Around 40% of manufacturing costs are material-related.

Standard optimization during cutting hardly increases the financial added value. The fabric has been bought.

Warehousing the oddments is expensive. Trend colors in particular can almost never be used in subsequent years. So if savings are to be made, the process must be started before purchasing takes place. To achieve this, preliminary costing must be carried out as soon as a production order and a production-ready style are available – and the most realistic data possible must be used.

Since the incorporation of all the factors for manual calculation is too complex, the Cut Order Planning System ‘autocost‘ supports a solidly-based and thoroughly tested preliminary costing process with all parameters.

40 %

52

Savings go hand-in-hand with quality assurance First of all, we have the sizes key. The assyst software autocost determines the weighted material usage and incorporates all the sizes to be produced. Thanks to integration with automarker.com, optimal markers (cutting layouts) are achieved for the entire production order.

Fabric width, table length and maximum number of plies are manually entered in autocost. Spreading information is taken from automarker.com. In other marker programs, the marker length is transferred manually – but the assyst software can do more: it also integrates additional data like fabrics, costs, colors, and the sales figures of the mirror season. autocost takes this data and calculates the final ordering amounts for fabrics and colors. The various different sizes are then put in realistic proportion to one another. The result is an accurate material report with laying instructions for your partner. The instructions contain not only a marker that can be re-used often, but the distribution of all sizes for all plies, in exactly the manner required for finishing the ordered pieces. Misunderstandings cannot happen. Your partner knows exactly how he has to spread the fabric and the manufacturer knows exactly how much fabric is needed for the job. The more specific the production order is, the more realistic the information base for autocost will be. This means that the forecast is continuously being refined.

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

“ Fabric usage calculation, optimization and marker forwarding are all optimally supported by assyst. This enables us to constantly control the materials to be procured.“ Edda Scholz, Betty Barclay

and more awareness of costs is the result.

Preliminary costing with autocost isn‘t simply an exact usage forecast; it also encourages interaction and communication throughout the entire value-added chain. Thanks to the linking of markers with the actual cost information, the amount of savings is immediately made clear. This exploits optimization potential – down to the very last percentage. There is also an increase in the awareness of costs in the contiguous departments.

With assyst‘s Cut Order Planning System, a wide range of scenarios can be tested, enabling the development of optimization recommendations. An extra seam in a skirt, for example, can mean 30% in material savings. Sales receives information that more orders for one particular size would mean improved fabric usage – and can then discount the size to stimulate sales.­A different fabric width can also have a positive effect on material savings.

autocost generates significant material savings.

Cut Order Planning by assyst is available as statio­nary software (cost) and as an On-Demand service (autocost) – both of these programs are integrated into the automarker.com Service Portal.

With the smart.marker program, autocost customers can recalculate existing automarker layouts free of charge – this means that layouts are always up-to-date.

53

How to...

Order optimization with autocost Access to autocost is password-secured. Users work in a customer-specific, SSL-encrypted environment.

Order creation can either be carried out by transferring the data directly from merchandize management or by means of manual entry. The order contains sizes, colors, lots and other values. The CD style name is also saved.

Order optimization: this takes place in a fully automated procedure in accordance with the defined parameters.

Users can take action interactively at any time. The order parameters are linked to marker optimization and the data for ply height and table length. When the CAD style is input the marker definition is automatically created (CM command). The definitions for the complete order are saved in the ‘assyst filesystem‘. The autocost program also includes the CreateMarker function, giving users the full and extensive range of automarker.com. Markers can thus be laid using autocost: the marker order is loaded directly into the program and the markers sent via “WebServices“ to the user‘s own automarker.com account for fully automated laying. In automarker.com, markers are positioned by means of a fully automated process. When the markers have been positioned, the lengths are transferred directly to order optimization and the spreading instruction is automatically created in accordance with the specifications that have been entered (table length, ply height, etc). > Illustrations 1 and 2 Analysis result: the order value is clearly displayed when the relevant cost parameters are entered. The autocost program then displays the total material requirements, the total average usage per piece and exact and average usage per color. The calculation of the total length of the markers offers you an overview of the efficiency of your plotter. > Illustration 3 Material reports and spreading instructions: These reports are generated as PDF files, which can easily be e-mailed to producers. The spreading (laying) instruction is the ideal working document for cutting – by entering the exact spreading instruction and sequence of steps, the ordering customer specifies how procedures are to run in the production plants and thus retains quality control at the beginning of the production chain. > Illustration 4

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Illustration 1: Order optimization with all relevant parameters

Illustration 2: Transferring lengths in order optimization

Illustration 3: Displaying the order value

Illustration 4: Detailed laying instructions and the sequence of steps for Production

The smart.marker function gives autocost customers a powerful tool for quality assurance and cost reduction for all markers created in automarker.com. smart.marker guarantees that within the automarker.com service platform, only currently available pieces will be processed.

smart.marke r

55

Product Life Cycle Management

Development on course

Susanne Meyer, Quality Manager

Michael Arnold, Managing Director

“ I always have access to current sizes tables and quality specifications.

My reports are automatically sent to all the relevant departments – and people read them more!“

“ I know the exact status of every design. I used to have to run through all the departments to get the information I need. Now it's displayed on my computer.“

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> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Fred Berger, Designer “ Now I pass on a design and I know I'm finished with it. Then I'm free to concentrate on new ideas.“

Ayse Hacer, Technical work preparation “ I communicate with suppliers all over the world. If I had to use only phones, faxes or e-mails, it would be a tedious and complicated task.

Now there are no more misunderstandings.“

Antonia Hoffmann, Pattern designer “ I always know in time which jobs are due – and I have all the background information I need, even before a prototype is ready.“

57

n Expert opinio

For fashion industry companies, the product is the core element of brand management. Quality, speed and the innovation of product development are the decisive success factors in the apparel sector – and we continually encounter this in our projects. Hardly any other branch develops so many products within such a short time frame as the apparel industry. Structured and integrated, efficient collection management throughout the entire process chain generates considerable cost and speed advantages and improves relative quality at the same time.

Communication requirements are reduced. Perfect coordination between products and designs must exist, and appropriate samples of these must be provided. Then the products must be produced as quickly as possible – and be economically successful. The control and administration of these processes calls for an enormous concentration of resources and involves a sophisticated balancing act performed by management. In spite of these obstac­les, PLM helps companies develop successfully – and to remain contemporary and in line with trends.

PLM plays a major role Fashion is a branch which has its own special requirements: because the main focus lies on development,

PLM is the central success factor – and it‘s even more important than enterprise resource planning (ERP). Our experience tells us that a completely integrated PLM system with its mapped processes and data can act as a central controlling instrument. In the apparel industry, PLM thus carries out tasks which in other sectors would probably be taken over by ERP. A PLM system must de­ liver essential and transparent decision criteria to management throughout all sales channels – and seamlessly map the core processes of the collection development, thus forming the backbone of the fashion company. It creates transparency and eliminates redundancy. PLM starts with company planning, maps framework collection planning, controls the NOS and the fashion product groups, and accompanies all individual products through the design stage and prototype phase until they are finally ready for the collection. The dovetailing of PLM and ERP systems is a decisive success factor – take for example the fast and error-free interlinking of sales data at the POS with product development and logistics – this creates considerable competitive advantages. Fashion companies often use different suppliers for retail and wholesale ERP systems. This increases the necessity for a PLM system for central controlling and for avoiding redundancies via the sales channels.

Navigate your way savely through

complexity

By Joachim Zürn Managing Director of the Z.BP Group

Joachim Zürn, the author of this contribution, is the Managing Director of the Z.BP Group. Z.BP have been consultants for the leading companies in the apparel industry since 1991. In their projects, the consultants solve fundamental strategic and operational issues in fashion companies, optimize processes and secure company success by means of well-established IT support using PLM and ERP systems, for instance.

58

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

In future, we visualize PLM systems taking on much more extensive tasks, like the management of all sales channels. Then PLM will become the central controlling system throughout the whole company and not just in product development.

PLM introduction as a strategic opportunity Anyone who wishes to achieve a high level of added value needs to have PLM as a strategic controlling instrument. The implementation of PLM offers fashion sector managers a great opportunity to make their company fit for the future and to implement extensive changes. This approach naturally necessitates the establishment of implementation projects at the highest management level.

These changed approaches and processes must be integrated into the company through change management methods. In doing so, management must not be slowed by legal corporate hindrances – instead managers must involve all the interest groups like designers, producers and those responsible for sales channels.

Having completed a great number of projects with leading apparel companies, we believe from experience that three elements are essential for successful PLM: proper preparation within the company, the selection

of appropriate software and optimal support and communication during the introduction phase. In the ideal scenario, a company would be very much aware of its desired future orientation and how it wants to design its later processes – before the PLM project gets underway.

If project preparation is solely limited to current conditions and a purely functional and technological analysis, the company will have overtaken itself at the end of the project and must then adopt permanent changes. We see cases like this often when we are asked to restructure PLM projects.

Good PLM software provides companies with a broad range of options. It should distinguish itself through its flexibility and its range of functions (which should also include the requirements I have mentioned above). It must also enable the worldwide linking of sites, partners and suppliers – because this is an important challenge in today‘s apparel sector. Successful companies introduce PLM step-by-step and in market-oriented manner; they ensure a high level of user acceptance, they make sure that the software functions properly and they create and conduct comprehensive training courses... but the first thing they do is invest sufficient time in preparing for the changes and for system planning – because that is ultimately an investment in their own strategic orientation.

“ Successful companies implement PLM in a targeted manner, step by step.“

“ In the future, more must be invested in the PLM sector.“

“ Many managers expect a PLM project to be a controlling instrument, and they are disappointed when the result is 'only' the implementation of a product database.“

59

Logbook entry from the Head Product Manager of the Motor Vessel ‘Anyway‘ “ It‘s the 10th day of our collection development and resources are getting scarce. The crew is showing the first signs of unrest. We save a design and two minutes later Purchasing wants a piece list, Product Management demands alternative material recommendations (more economical please!) and the Board is already expecting the final cut for try-on. We are distraught, I must admit – but we‘re trying to keep afloat using Excel lists, formulas and e-mails.

The stress came to a head when a product data sheet went overboard. Who took it? Who had it last? And no answer is forthcoming... While they‘re on watch, our officers are trying to sketch as much as they can from memory, consulting the framework collection plan for help. It‘s like trying to navigate by the sun when the sky is heavily overcast – no one knows if the results will even be accurate. Everyone is secretly waiting for a miracle – but no one dares to voice their hopes. I regret to say that as yet, there is no land in sight.“

PLM clears the decks 60

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Logbook entry from the Head Product Manager of the MV ‘PLM‘ “ It‘s the 10th day of our collection development. We are sailing through a belt of high pressure and are on course for Fashion Week. The Design officers are presenting their new ideas.

Otherwise there is nothing special to report. The technical work preparation department has praised the exact specifications from pattern construction and is processing them. CAD drawings are visible through PLM. Designs are approved in the system. Direct contact with partner ships, even on the other side of the world. We anticipate the first prototypes in 3 to 4 days – then we‘ll see land.“

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What‘s a PLM system used for?

A PLM system makes complexity controllable – and plm.assyst takes this further than most systems.

It follows the processing requirements of the apparel industry – exact­ly. It enables the management of a high number of interwoven versions, for example, and reconstructs the concentration of information during the development process. And that‘s important, because the first sketch has hardly any information that could apply to a piece list. Our employees gradually condense all this information. When a collection finally goes into production, the data pool contains e.g. more than 200 model descriptions, 70 styles/cuts and hundreds of different fabrics, trims and accessoires. Thousands of e-mails in various different languages have already been sent to colleagues and partners. Countless variations and ver­sions are created. With assyst, the piece list can be added to gradually – it doesn‘t have to be documented in Excel or on paper until it‘s complete.

As a PLM with integrated workflow management, plm.assyst condenses all the information which would otherwise be in various Excel lists, e-mail accounts, graphics and CAD programs – and it does still more: the system accompanies our workflow procedures, automating them where possible – and it contains task lists, sharing procedures and order distribution documenta­-­ tion. These processes can be tailored to any company‘s requirements. Individual competitive advantages can

Prototype with sizes table

62

also be compiled – and this is the greatest added value, since information and control merge with one another.

The plm.assyst system occupies an exceptional position in the market. The program offers function modules for every development process requirement, and these functions are always state-of-the-art. For each one of these modules, plm.assyst offers document management, workflow management, change management, calculation, quality assurance, remote access, reports and overviews, classification of product definitions, catalogs for product-independent information like data on suppliers, piece lists and measurement tables, multilingualism including Chinese, Greek and Cyrillic, as well as a detailed user access management system. Standard software offers all these advantages.

However, assyst also offers the advantages of tailored software at the same time – with customization of the user interface, functions, processes and interfaces to ERP or to production planning, for instance. The system enables the flexible combination of all functions and modules with individual processes and workflows. This versatility and individuality is one of the strengths of assyst, and it helps make plm.assyst a strategic tool which enables apparel companies to secure and expand their competitive advantages.

Model description

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Company strategy decides whether a process is right or wrong. The diagram below shows a typical reference process in plm.assyst. This process can be used as a foundation for the mapping of individual procedures. The plm.assyst function modules can be flexibly allocated to a company-specific development process and integrated into the existing IT platform, e.g. ERP, Personal Information Manager and Media Asset Manager.

What does the ‘right‘ process look like?

Collection planning (pricing, quantity, revenue ...)

Color story

Style sketches

Collection ideas for a new season

Sampling fabrics overview

Initials ideas for materials (fabrics and trims)

Construct CAD pieces

Create style description sampling Order prototype sample material

Style definition (=PLM product)

Transfer style master data and sample BOM to ERP system

Calculation

Prototype Transfer calculation to ERP system

Create sample production order

Sample COLLECTION FINISHED

Sample production in-line inspection

Salesman‘s sample

Finish samples (Washing etc.)

Pre-production

Production order

63

Investing in the

future

The Holy Fashion Group has used plm.assyst since 2006. Today more than 200 employees work with the system. CIO Berndt Forster takes stock for fashion 01 – he talks about the introduction of plm.assyst and the changes the Group of Companies has since implemented. fashion 01: Mr. Forster, when did you first realize that the right move had been made in bringing in a PLM system to the Holy Fashion Group?

Forster: When we consolidated our sites. Today Kreuz­ lingen handles our menswear product development for us, while ladies’ wear development is designed solely in Bielefeld. Thanks to plm.assyst, we were able to complete our restructuring and secure our standard procedures at the same time. The advantages of a PLM system usually make themselves felt after two or three seasons.

During the initial phase, there is naturally a somewhat higher level of pressure on staff until the program has been integrated. As our standard data pool, plm.assyst also provided us with massive support during the introduction of SAP. fashion 01: What was the main reason behind the Holy Fashion Group‘s decision to introduce an extensive PLM system?

Forster: We realized that sooner or later we‘d no longer be capable of controlling the diversity of our product portfolio (which encompasses nine product segments) and our complex work cycles. Everyone realized this – from the creative to the technicians and the business economists. fashion 01: In your opinion, what makes your PLM system so successful?

Forster: For us, PLM is an investment in the future of our company. We continuously invest in the further development, expansion and adaptation of the system – and this

64

underlying strategy was also the main reason why we chose plm.assyst. We went through the whole market with a fine tooth comb – and assyst was the clear choice.

Our system relates to, and follows the change in our markets and in our company. The modular design of plm.assyst means we can map our processes with the utmost flexibility. From today‘s standpoint, we would have had to redevelop a standard system or an in-house development several times over by now. fashion 01: On which aspect has the introduction of PLM had the greatest impact?

Forster: That must be the integration of the creative sector, and not least because we undertook a major structural change here at the same time. Each one of our designers is responsible for the entire development process, from the first sketch right through to delivery to our Logistics. Personnel-wise, we have taken into account the increase in administrative effort on the Design side. Information and specifications for colors, for example are now created sooner. And our down stream process departments like model makers and technical work preparation profit in turn from this.

Their administration costs are considerably reduced, since they always have current data material to work with. fashion 01: What are your next projects?

Forster: We‘ll be using plm.assyst to map the inter­na­tionalization of the Holy Fashion Group in the near future – this will include the linking of suppliers and production plants, and integrated quality assurance.

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

PLM objectives in the Holy Fashion Group > Time savings thanks to the faster location of necessary information > Reduction in the collection development timeframe > In full control of complex work cycles > Simplified and structured working

Strellson AG (with its headquarters in Kreuzlingen, Switzerland) and windsor GmbH (based in Bielefeld, Germany) are both subsidiaries of the Holy Fashion Group. The Group heads the four international fashion brands JOOP!, Strellson, Tommy Hilfiger Tailored (license pending) and windsor. www.holyfashiongroup.com

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How does progress look from your point of view?

66

> 3D Visualization & Simulation > Design & Grading > International Sizing Portal > Corporate > Made-to-Measure > Individual Laying & Material Usage > Cut Order Planning > Product Life Cycle Management

Imprint Publisher: assyst GmbH Max-Planck-Str. 3 D-85609 Aschheim-Dornach Germany Phone +49 (89)90-505 0 Fax +49 (89)90-505 271 www.assyst.de Responsible for the editorial content: Alexandra Seidl, Human Solutions GmbH, (alexandra.seidl@human-solutions.com) Compilation and layout: Marketing Essentials (Angelika Methner, Annegret Schall-Ceppa, Claudia Collin) www.marketing-essentials.de Š The assyst GmbH has the 2010 copyright for all articles and illustrations, unless stated otherwise. Any form of reproduction, inclusion in online services and the Internet and copying to data carriers like CD ROMs, DVD ROMs etc., may only be carried out with express, prior permission in writing from the assyst GmbH.

The magazine for technology in the apparel industry fashion 01

www.assyst.de

fashion 01 The magazine for technology in the apparel industry