Travel in and around Reykjavík

Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel

Travel in and around Reykjavík

Reykjavík, the northernmost capital of the world, is by far the largest municipality in Iceland and the capital area is home to nearly two-thirds of the country’s population of around 350.000 people. Ingólfur Arnarson, Iceland’s first settler, built his farm on the peninsula where Reykjavík stands today. The town got its name – meaning ‘smoky bay’ – after columns of steam rising from hot springs in the area were mistaken for smoke. But it is the man dubbed the ‘Father of Reykjavík’, Skúli Magnússon, who is credited with triggering urban development in Reykjavík after he established wool workshops there in the 18th century, as part of an attempt to modernise the Icelandic economy. Reykjavík received its town charter in 1786. Modern Reykjavik boasts a wide array of exciting activities and attractions. The city is pure, clean and vibrant – the perfect setting for a relaxing, refreshing vacation. It features a multitude of top-class restaurants, outstanding cafés, sparkling nightlife and amazing attractions and activities within easy reach. This section presents some key highlights of the Greater Reykjavík Area, but it would be easy to write volumes on all the things to see and do, so we suggest calling our service desk for a more comprehensive listing. There we can assist you with information about bike rental, organised walking tours of Reykjavík, bus excursions of the Reykjavík area (including flexible hopon-hop-off tours) and aerialsightseeing tours. If we had to pick five essentials for Reykjavík from everything listed below, they would be: visit Laugardalslaug swimming pool, or any one of the many swimming pools in Reykjavík, immerse yourself in Icelandic history at the Saga Museum, pop into the Reykjavík City Hall to see Iceland’s geographical features in perspective on the 3-D relief map of Iceland, and wander around the old city center to make your own discovery of a unique shop, gallery, museum, or café.

Downtown Reykjavík – walking distance

Hallgrímskirkja church is the biggest and tallest (74.5 m. / 244 ft.) church in Iceland, and a handy point of reference if ever you’re lost in the downtown area. It was designed by the architect

Guðjón Samúelsson, who was inspired by the volcanic basalt rock formations, formed by cooling lava, which can be seen all over Iceland. Building commenced in 1945 and the church was finally opened, more than four decades later, in 1986. The church gets it name from Reverend Hallgrímur Pétursson, Iceland’s most revered hymn writer; Hallgrímskirkja means ‘the church of Hallgrímur’. It is Reykjavík’s main landmark, and can be seen from almost everywhere in the city. This also means that you get an excellent view of the whole city from its steeple – an elevator takes you most of the way, for a small fee. New bronze and red-glass exterior doors (2010, designed by Leifur Breiðfjörð) lead to a gothic interior of high-pointed vaults and long, narrow windows. Concerts are held regularly at Hallgrímskirkja, making use of the church’s pride and joy: its organ. Renowned German organ builder Johannes Klais made the enormous 15-metre, 25-ton organ, which has 72 stops, 102 ranks and 5,275 pipes. A statue of Leifur Eiríksson – “Leif the Lucky” – stands in front of the church. Eiríksson was the first European to discover America, around A.D. 1000, and the statue was a gift from the U.S. to commemorate the 1,000th anniversary of Iceland’s parliament. Skólavörðuholt - hallgrimskirkja.is The Einar Jónsson Museum is the former home and studio of Iceland’s first and best-known sculptor, Einar Jónsson (1874–1954). Jónsson attended the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in Copenhagen from 1896-99 and identified with the romantic symbolists. He was a ground-breaking figure in Icelandic sculpture and his influence on the visual arts in Iceland has been considerable. His work reflects Icelandic folklore as well as classical human and

mythological figures. Jónsson offered all of his work as a gift to the Icelandic people in 1909 on the condition that a museum be built to house his artwork. He chose the location of the museum at the top of Skólavörðustígur on the outskirts of town (in those days). The museum was built according to a plan by the artist himself and it may be said that the museum building itself is his biggest sculpture. It included a residence for Jónsson and his wife, as well as a studio. The Museum was officially opened in 1923. The Einar Jónsson Museum is worth a visit even out of hours – at the back of the museum (entrance from Freyjugata) is a small park with 26 bronze castings of his work. Eiríksgata - lej.is The ASÍ Art Museum is a contemporary art gallery just around the corner from the Einar Jónsson Museum, run by the Icelandic labour union. The gallery exhibits contemporary Icelandic artists and selections from its permanent collection. We recommend checking their exhibition schedule when you’re in town. Ásmundarsalur at Freyjugata 41 - listasafnasi.is The Culture House (Safnahúsið) is, in a nutshell, a key venue for the Icelandic national heritage. It is an architectural monument originally built to house the National Library and National Archives of Iceland, and was opened to the public in 1909. For several decades after that, it kept all the main treasures of the Icelandic nation under the same roof. The Culture House is now a heritage building that serves as a common center for Icelandic cultural heritage institutions, with high-quality exhibitions on selected national treasures. The current exhibition takes you on a journey through Iceland’s visual legacy, a collaboration between Iceland’s leading museums, this exhibition offers a guide to this nation’s cultural history. Hverfisgata 15 - safnahusid.is

Food, Glorious Food! Reykjavík happily has many very good restaurants and quite a few excellent ones too. There are too many to list here, but a couple you might otherwise overlook are worth mentioning. Þrír Frakkar (meaning both ‘three overcoats’ and ‘three Frenchmen’) is a classy but cozy restaurant a few minutes walk from the main street. From the ptarmigan paté to the skyr brulée, the food is mouthwateringly superb (bookings recommended, 3frakkar. com). Alþingi (Parliament) was founded at Þingvellir in 930 and held its sessions there until 1799, when it was discontinued for some decades. Alþingi was restored in 1844 and moved to the capital city Reykjavík, where it has been held ever since. In 1881, Alþingishús (Parliament House) was built, and is now one of the oldest stone buildings in Iceland. Behind the building is one of Iceland’s oldest parks: the Parliament House Garden. Austurvöllur Square. Tjörnin means ‘The Pond’ but it is more like a small lake, and is pronounced something like ‘chertnin’. It is situated in the heart of Reykjavík and makes for a very pleasant walk. Surrounding buildings include the

National Gallery of Iceland, the Reykjavík Town Hall and the Fríkirkjan Church. The stream of water that runs out into the harbor from Tjörnin was originally uncovered, but is now hidden beneath Lækjargata Street. Tjörnin attracts dozens of species of birds, and many swans, geese, ducks and arctic terns nest there, adding to the pond’s beauty and its popularity as a place for families to visit. During winter, the pond often freezes over and people go skating and play ice-hockey. Hot geothermal water is pumped into a small area of Tjörnin during winter to keep a small part frost-free for the birds.

Reykjavík City Hall (Ráðhús) was inaugurated in 1992, but discussions of whether or not to build a city hall in Reykjavík started as far back as 1799. The modern grey structure, softened by moss-covered walls and surrounded by water, is the result of an international architectural competition that was won by Studio Granda. Tjörnin, “the pond” in the heart of the old city centre, was considered a worthy setting for a building symbolising the city’s status as the capital of Iceland. The Reykjavík City Hall houses the Mayor and the executive officials of Reykjavík. Inside, we recommend seeing the huge 3-D relief map of Iceland. It’s a great place to see the country in perspective and make sense of all those mountains, glaciers, valleys and fjords. There’s also a tourist information desk and a café with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the pond.

The National Gallery of Iceland was founded in 1884 by Björn Bjarnason in Copenhagen, and consisted of donated artwork mainly from Danish artists. The Museum remained an independent institute until 1916 when Alþingi (the Icelandic Parliament) decided to make it a department of

the National Heritage Museum. In 1987 the collection was moved to its present location. The main emphasis of the collection is on 19th and 20th century Icelandic art, but international art is featured as well. The museum holds the most valuable repository of works by Icelandic artists in the country, and also includes works by internationally renowned artists such as Pablo Picasso, Edward Munch, Karel Appel, Hans Hartung, Victor Vasarely, Richard Serra and Richard Tuttle. Instead of a permanent exhibit, the gallery constantly rotates exhibits from the permanent collection. The basement level has a nice area with drawing materials to keep children occupied. Fríkirkjuvegur 7 - listasafn.is

The Reykjavík Art Museum has three branches spread across the city. It was founded in 1973 and is the largest visual art institution in Iceland. The mission of its Harbor House Museum (Hafnarhús) is to present contemporary art in its many manifestations. This museum, accommodated in a renovated 1930s warehouse, also houses the Erró Collection, by Iceland’s most celebrated modern artist, renowned for his large-scale comic-book-style montages. There’s a wonderful reading room with hundreds of art books, children’s toys, large chess set and a view over the harbor. Tryggvagata 17 - artmuseum.is

MUSEUM, GALLERY OR FLOCK OF SHEEP? A WORD COLLECTOR’S INSIGHT Although we’ve listed the official English name of galleries and museums wherever possible, you may be wondering why so many Icelandic galleries are called ‘museums’. The reason is simply that the word for museum and gallery is the same in Icelandic: safn. Strictly speaking, safn means ‘collection’, which makes sense when you think of an art gallery being a collection of art (listasafn) and a museum being a collection of artefacts (minjasafn). But if you’re discussing the term with a sheep farmer, keep in mind that safn can also mean ‘flock of sheep’!

In 2004, the National Museum of Iceland re-opened its doors after extensive refurbishment, and the modernized museum offers a wider variety of services to its guests including interactive elements. The museum increases and relays knowledge of Icelandic cultural heritage from the nation’s settlement through to the modern day. The museum is modern and progressive, providing a comprehensive picture of the past 1200 years of Iceland’s cultural history. The ground floor of the National Museum houses the National Gallery of Photography, which emphasizes the Iceland of days gone by. There’s also a café on the ground floor, and the museum shop, which has a more interesting selection of souvenirs than many tourist shops, given its attempt to offer history-related objects. Suðurgata 41 - natmus.is

The Reykjavík City Museum is at two locations: the The Settlement Exhibition in the city centre, and the open-air Árbær Museum in the outer city. The museum collects and conserves objects from Reykjavík’s cultural history, and carries out research on them. Its role is also to enhance interest, understanding and respect for the history of Reykjavík. In 2001, construction workers came across the remains of a Viking longhouse. It turned out to be the oldest known evidence of human habitation in Reykjavík, dating from 871, plus or minus 2 years. The excavated ruin is now the draw-card exhibit of the The Settlement Exhibition, surrounded by a digital projection that brings the longhouse back to life. The museum promulgates knowledge of the history and living conditions of people of Reykjavík from the Settlement Age to the present day. Aðalstræti –borgarsogusafn.is

The Old Harbor

Harpa concert hall and conference center is a striking new addition to the picturesque Reykjavík harbor. Harpa opened in 2011, and offers a diverse range of performances, from classical to contemporary, rock, pop and jazz. It is home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra and the Icelandic Opera, as well as serving as a tourism and business hub, providing flexible facilities for programs and international events. Harpa’s façade was designed by renowned visual artist Olafur Eliasson, and is regarded by many as a symbol of Iceland’s renewed dynamism. Of particular interest to foreign visitors are the concerts held over summer that double as potted histories of Icelandic music. harpa.is

At Grandagarður 2, the privately run Saga Museum conveys Icelandic history with a successful blend of entertainment and educational value. Audio tours guide visitors through installations populated by lifelike silica human figures: Vikings feuding, witches burning at the stake, Iceland’s last Catholic bishop being beheaded – and no holds barred on the gore! sagamuseum.is

Other places of interest along the harbor include the Saturday and Sunday Kolaportið flea market, with a fish market offering visitors a taste of pickled salmon, fulmar eggs, and fermented shark; the Reykjavík Museum of Photography (free) above the City Library; Reykjavík Maritime Museum (‘The Sea Baron’) for the best lobster soup in the most unaffected restaurant in town and the little cluster of shops and cafés in this area that visitors often remain oblivious to. The harbor is also the departure point for whalewatching, puffin-watching and seaangling tours. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is

Photography Museum Tryggvagata 15. photomuseum.is

Reykjavík Maritime Museum Grandagarður 8. sjominjasafn.is Whales of Iceland Fiskislóð 23-25. Whalesoficeland.is

Northern Lights Center Grandagarður 2. aurorareykjavik.is The Sun Voyager (Sólfarið) is a striking sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason located on Sæbraut, by the sea close to the center of Reykjavík. It is a common misunderstanding that the Sun Voyager is a Viking ship. It is quite understandable that many tourists think like this when travelling in Iceland, the land of the sagas. Nonetheless, it should be stressed that this was not the original intention. The Sun Voyager is a dream boat and an ode to the sun. During the bright nights of summer it is popular to visit the site in the evening to enjoy the midnight sun. The sun voyager is located just east along the water from Harpa concert hall.

Just outside the downtown area

Höfði House was imported from Norway and reconstructed at its current location in 1909. Many such ‘catalogue houses’ were imported to Iceland around that time, but Höfði is without a doubt one of the most beautiful and best-preserved. Jean-Paul Brillouin, a French consul, had been sent to Reykjavík to safeguard the interests of French fishermen, whose presence in Icelandic fishing grounds in the 19th and early 20th century was very strong. It was Brillouin who ordered the house

and to this day there are many signs of its original purpose, such as the letters RF (French Republic) above an inside door. Höfði is currently used for official receptions and meetings. It is owned by the city of Reykjavík and not open to casual visitors, but is pretty to see from the outside if you’re passing by Borgartún, just east of the Sun Voyager sculpture (above). Borgartún.

HISTORY MADE AT HÖFÐI HOUSE Of all the famous people who have visited Höfði over the years, the most eminent visitor is probably Sir Winston Churchill when he came to Iceland in 1941. Among other visitors to Höfði are Marlene Dietrich, who came to Iceland during the 2nd World War, and various European heads of government and heads of state. In 1986, the meeting of Presidents Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev at Höfði house is considered a very significant step in the events leading up to the end of the Cold War. During the meeting of the two presidents, Höfði became so celebrated that a Japanese millionaire decided to have an exact replica of the house built in Japan.

The Pearl (Perlan) sits atop Öskjuhlíð hill, supported by six huge waterstorage tanks, each with a capacity of four million litres. Perlan was originally designed by Ingimundur Sveinsson, and opened in 1991. A glass dome gives the building its pearl-like look. The wooded Öskjuhlíð hill on which Perlan sits has a number of walking paths that are popular with city-dwellers in need of some greenery. Perlan has a 360 ° viewing deck on the fourth floor. The viewing deck offers an awesome view of Reykjavik and the neighboring communities and the mountain ranges around the city. Perlan also features a lovely restaurant and café featuring local ingredients. In Perlan’s new Wonders of Iceland geological museum, you’ll find Iceland´s first interactive glacier exhibition - you will even get the chance to experience walking through one of them. perlan.is

At the shore south of Perlan, is the imported yellow sand of Nauthólsvík Beach, where hot water from the city’s geothermal heating system is pumped into the ocean to bring the temperature up to 15-19°C / 59 -66°F. Families flock here on warm days to sunbathe and splash around in the hot tubs (30-39°C / 85-102°F). There are showering facilities, lockers and refreshments available during opening hours, but the beach itself is always open. nautholsvik.is

If you’re looking south-west from Perlan, across the Skerjafjörður Fjord, you may notice a cluster of stately buildings on an otherwise uninhabited peninsula. The peninsula is called Bessastaðanes, and Bessastaðir is the official residence of the Icelandic president. The building at Bessastaðir

was built in the 1760s and was used as a school until 1867. After that it was home to various well-to-do families until 1941, when it was donated to the Icelandic state to serve as the future residence of Icelandic presidents. It is rarely open to the public. The church at Bessastaðir was consecrated in 1796 and is among the oldest Icelandic buildings made of cemented stone, but Bessastaðir had been the site of a church much earlier, with the first church built there around the year 1000. At the Kjarvalsstaðir branch of the Reykjavík Art Museum is a permanent exhibition of key works by one of Iceland’s most beloved landscape painters, Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval (1885-1972). The modernist building also holds temporary exhibitions that explore many thematic and historical aspects of Icelandic art. It is devoted to exhibiting the work of well established Icelandic and international painters and sculptors. Flókagata - artmuseum.is

Viðey

Viðey Island is only a few minutes away from Reykjavík by ferry. The island has a long and colorful history but is also popular for its nature and, since 2007, for the Imagine Peace Tower (see boxed text). At 11.7 km2 / 18.2 sq. feet, with its highest point rising 32 meters (105 feet) above sea-level, Viðey is well vegetated and home to about 160 species of higher plants. Over 30 species of birds have been counted there including many ground-nesting birds, so watch your step. People first lived on Viðey in the 10th century and a church was built on the island in the 12th century. An Augustine monastery was established at Viðey in 1225, and abolished in 1539 at the start of the Reformation in Iceland. Viðeyjarstofa is the first cemented stone building in Iceland; it was constructed on Viðey in the year 1755 and is now home to a café and restaurant. The country’s second oldest such building still standing is the church on Viðey, which was consecrated in 1774. Viðey’s last permanent inhabitant left in the year 1943. videy.com

VIÐEY’S BEACON OF PEACE The Imagine Peace Tower on Viðey Island is a touching tribute to the life and work of John Lennon. The artwork is comprised of a number of separate lights that merge to form a single beam that reaches far into the night sky. The strength, intensity and brilliance of the light tower continually change as the air fluctuates with the prevailing weather, atmospheric conditions and light. The Imagine Peace Tower is conceived as a type of wishing well, with the words “Imagine Peace” inscribed on it in 24 languages. Legendary artist, musician and peace advocate Yoko Ono and her son Sean Lennon inaugurated the Imagine Peace Tower on the anniversary of John Lennon’s birthday, the 9th of October 2007. It is dedicated to the memory of Lennon as a beacon of world peace, and is lit every year between sunset and midnight from October 9 until December 8, the day Lennon died, as well as for other special occasions. “I hope the Imagine Peace Tower will give light to the strong wishes of World Peace from all corners of the planet, and give encouragement, inspiration and a sense of solidarity in a world now filled with fear and confusion. Let us come together to realize a peaceful world.” – Yoko Ono.

A short drive or bus-ride from the city centre

Laugardalur valley, east of the city centre, is very popular with visitors for its big geothermal swimming pool – the largest in Iceland –, domestic zoo, botanic gardens and the Ásmundarsafn branch of the Reykjavík Art Museum. There is also a skating arena, youth hostel, campsite, the Laugardalshöll sports stadium and concert venue, and the luxury Laugar Spa in Laugardalur.

Laugardalur means ‘hot spring valley’ and is believed to be the main source of steam that first settler Ingólfur Arnarson saw when he named Reykjavík (‘smoky bay’). Those same hot springs now heat the Laugardalslaug Pool’s outdoor swimming areas, hot tubs, steam rooms and Olympic-size indoor pool. Sundlaugavegur 30 – sundlaugar.is

The Reykjavík Family Park & Zoo includes most Icelandic animals, both wild and domesticated. From reindeer, seals, and arctic foxes, to cattle, sheep and horses. There’s also an aquarium showcasing North Atlantic creatures of the deep. The park has rides and play equipment for children, and ‘Science World’ – a hands-on exhibit where you can measure your scream in decibels or make a giant soap bubble from the inside! Múlavegur 2 – mu.is

Right next to the zoo is Grasagarðurinn, Laugardalur’s botanic gardens, where you can see all kinds of birdlife and flora in a gorgeous setting of parkland, ponds and fountains, or have a coffee at Café Flora. cafeflora.is

The Reykjavík Art Museum’s Ásmundarsafn is a sculpture museum and sculpture garden in the Laugardalur Valley. The futuristic house was once the studio of pioneering Icelandic sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson (1893 – 1982), who designed and built the building himself in the 1940s. Sveinsson’s work reflects that he was influenced by Henry Moore and the cubists, often drawing from Icelandic folklore, and ranging from human forms to pure abstractions. Sigtún – artmuseum.is

ICELANDIC POOL CULTURE we haven’t mentioned all the great public thermal pools in Iceland because there’s one in almost every town, and there are 18 in the Greater Reykjavík Area alone! For many Icelanders, a trip to the local pool is a part of their daily ritual. Working people often start their day at the pool, parents head there after school to let their kids splash around in the wading pools or work off some energy on the water slides, and party-goers often turn up in the evening to refresh before a big night out. It has obvious health benefits (is this the secret to Icelanders’ longevity?!) and also serves a social purpose, with locals using their time in the hot tubs to swap news and discuss politics.

Don’t let bad weather put you off either – rain or snow are good reasons to head to the pool, not to avoid it. Pools have changing rooms, lockers and showers with free soap – there are strict hygiene requirements, complete with posters explaining which parts of your body in particular you are required to wash! And if you’re reading this, thinking, “Oops, I forgot my swimming costume,” it’s no problem: most pools offer swimsuit and towel rental. See swimminginiceland.com for pool locations and opening hours all around Iceland.

The Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum celebrates the life and work of Icelandic sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson (1908–1982). Ólafsson’s sculptures span several periods of 20th century art, range in form from formal busts to chaotic arrangements of wooden pieces. The private museum was once the artist’s coastal home and studio, and was converted into a museum by his widow, Birgitta. The museum and its relaxing café enjoy peaceful harbor views. Laugarnestangi 70 – lso.is

Árbær Museum (Árbæjarsafn) is an open-air folk museum in the Elliðaár Valley, a 15-minute drive from the city centre. The re-created historic village is built around a traditional farm and the other buildings transported to the site include an 1842 church. During summer, staff at Árbær dress in period costume and carry out tasks such as milking cows, weaving wool, and cooking traditional Icelandic pancakes. Guided tours are especially recommended (free with paid admission) so you can be sure to learn useful life skills such as how to smoke meat with sheep manure (you’ll be even more alarmed when you learn that this method is still practiced today!). Kistuhylur borgarsogusafn.is

Mosfellsbær

Mosfellsbær (pop. almost 9,000) is north-east of the capital. The pride and joy of this town is without a doubt the Nobel Prize winning author Halldór Kiljan Laxness, born and raised in Mosfellsbær. Halldór Laxness and his literature are an important part of Iceland’s culture. Laxness was an incredibly prolific writer, and his works have been translated into over forty languages. His home on the outskirts of Mosfellsbær was converted into a museum in 2004: Gljúfrasteinn, the Halldór Laxness Museum. The museum’s 25-minute audio tour comes highly recommended – it walks you through the house with a lovely balance of the historical and the personal. The house also becomes a Sunday afternoon concert venue during summer. Rte. 1 through Mosfellsbær, then right onto Rte. 36. gljufrasteinn.is - tel: 586-8066 Horse riding. If you’d like to see more of Mosfellsbær’s picturesque pastureland, horseback riding is a great choice. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is

Esjan

Esja is a mountain just outside Mosfellsbær, 15 minutes from Reykjavík by car, popular with climbers aiming for its 914-metre / 2999-foot summit, and with walkers and families who tend to stick to the pretty wooded areas and gentle slopes at its base. Esja is commonly referred to as a mountain, but is really a volcanic mountain range made from tuff rock and basalt, ranging from about 1.8 to 3.2 million years old. Esja’s main trails are wellmarked and present no real challenges beyond maintaining enough stamina to make it to the top! Those who do make it are never disappointed with the view. Car parking area off Rte. 1, NE of Reykjavík

Kópavogur

Kópavogur is Iceland’s second largest municipality with a population of around 33,000 and is part of the Greater Reykjavík Area. Kópavogur – meaning “seal pup cove” – only became a substantial settlement during the 1930s, when authorities began allocating land on the peninsula. The town has grown steadily ever since. Iceland’s tallest building is located in downtown Kópavogur, dubbed Turninn – ‘The Tower’, and overlooks Iceland’s biggest shopping mall, Smáralind – smaralind.is.

Another noteworthy building in Kópavogur is Salurinn, the Kópavogur Concert Hall. The building’s exterior incorporates planks of driftwood, gathered from all around the Icelandic coast, and inside is a state-of-the-art concert hall with excellent acoustics. We recommend checking the line-up, especially if you’re a fan of classical or choral music. Hamraborg 6 - salurinn.is

Seltjarnarnes, Garðabær & Álftanes

Seltjarnarnes, Garðabær & Álftanes are all municipalities in the Greater Reykjavík Area and have a combined population of around 18,000. Seltjarnarnes is the peninsula town sticking out from the north-western side of Reykjavík. It’s hard to find a house here that doesn’t have a great ocean view, as everywhere in Seltjarnarnes is a stone’s throw from the beach. Sticking out from its own north-western side like an appendix to an appendix is Grótta Island, a haven for birds, closed for the nesting period during May and June. Garðabær, south of Reykjavík, has been inhabited since the 9th century, beginning primarily as a farming settlement, but with some fishing too. There are many nature reserves in and around Garðabær, making it especially popular with walkers. South-west of Reykjavík is the peninsula and town of Álftanes, perhaps best known for its proximity to the Icelandic president’s official residence at Bessastaðir.

Hafnarfjörður

Hafnarfjörður is one of Iceland’s oldest towns and its third most populous municipality, with a population of around 28,000. This population count does not include “hidden people” such as elves, of which there are reported to be a great deal living in this town. Hafnarfjörður – meaning “harbor fjord” – owes much of its prosperity to its excellent natural harbor. Its port has been trading continuously for more than 600 years. Today Hafnarfjörður remains one of the nation’s largest fishing centres, but to many it is best known as the home of the annual Viking Festival in June. This festival sees tunic-clad Viking enthusiasts come together from all over the world to wrestle each other (glíma), re-enact Viking battles, and then drink mead together afterwards. The Viking Festival has its home base at the Viking Village, which also runs a Viking-themed restaurant and hotel. Strandgata 55, vikingvillage.is