Travel the South Coast from Vík to Höfn

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Travel the South Coast from Vík to Höfn

With Europe’s largest glacier presiding majestically over the area, this 272km stretch of road, from Vík to Höfn skirts the edges of Iceland’s most impressive scenery, including one the country’s star attractions – the Glacier Lagoon. Crowning the region is Hvannadalshnjúkur Iceland’s highest peak, which breaks out of the southern glacial tongue Öræfa-jökull, like a set of icy fangs and creates a stunning contrast with its surrounding terrain. As a favourite with film directors, many big budget films have been shot in this particular region of South Iceland - you may in fact recognize some of the stunning locations from their regular appearances on the silver-screen, with scenes from titles such as Die Another Day, Batman Begins and Tomb Raider shot in the extraordinary settings found here.

In the back of beyond

Þakgil is a perfect destination with some picturesque mountain scenery and mysterious looking rock formations. A hiking map of the area is available at thakgil.is which roughly details the area and marks the trails. Look out for the recommended 4-hour loop which includes the terrific viewpoint at Mælifell. Rte. 214, a turnoff 5km east of Vík, leads to this lovely location and its campsite. Mýrdalssandur. Pressing further east, Rte. 1 curves gracefully through the outwash plains of Mýrdalssandur - a vast desert of dark sand just southeast of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier – and towards the immense fire-lava fields of Eldhraun. Along the way there are various stops of interest including: the Hjörleifshöfði mountain, which rises dramatically 221m (725ft.) from a sea of sandy wasteland, and the cairns of Laufskálavarða – a curious landmark where travelers are encouraged to continue the charming tradition of piling up rocks in a bid to invoke lady luck as a travel companion!

Kirkjubæjarklaustur and around

Fjarðrárgljúfur. If you’re not in too much of a hurry to revisit civilization, and fancy a short hike or lunch break, then this 100m (328ft.) river canyon and relic of the Ice-age is only a 2km diversion from Rte. 1 on Rte. 206. With its stunning convoluted cliff-sides - covered with narrow ledges and frequently

interrupted by slippery emerald slopes - this compelling attraction will reward you with further lasting impressions of the region.

Rte. 206 also leads to Lakagígar (Laki Craters) a massive area of geological significance, North of Kirkjubæjarklaustur. In June 1783, the earth here erupted into over 130 lava spouting cavities along a 25km (16 miles) long fissure. The eruption, which lasted for eight months and generated a molten mass estimated at 14.7 cubic km (31/2 cubic miles), is said to be the largest volcanic event ever witnessed in recorded history, and one that caused catastrophic consequences throughout the northern hemisphere. If you have a passion for observing the beauty in the bleak, then this area with its hiking trails criss-crossing endless expanses of moss covered craters, is well worth a visit. With difficult rivers to ford, this area can only be accessed with a good 4WD, or alternatively you can take a tour of the location. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is

ELDMESSA – THE FIRE SERMON during the Lakigígar eruptions in 1783, the pastor of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Jón Steingrímsson delivered his famous FireSermon, which is said to have brought the lava flow to a standstill as it edged alarmingly closer to the town.

Kirkjubæjarklaustur is the only village located on this extraordinary stretch of road between Vík and Höfn. With its six-syllable mouthful of a title most people just refer to it as “Klaustur” meaning cloister – a reference to a now vanished convent established in 1186. The town’s connection to the church is reflected in place names such as Systrafoss (Sisters’ Fall), a pretty waterfall on the west side of town which pours out from the elevated Systravatn (Sisters’ Lake). A hiking trail leads from the lake to an impressive hill-mounted rock called Systrastapi, meaning Sisters’ Rock; according to folklore two nuns were buried here after being burnt at the stake for heresy. For more information on hiking trails, sightseeing and local amenities in the village, contact the local Tourist Information Center – open JuneAugust on Sunnumörk 2 – south.is Landbrotshólar is the biggest area of pseudo craters in Iceland. Located just south of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, it’s composed of countless hills that undulate far into the distance.

Kirkjugolf means The Church Floor, and as a designated national monument 1km north of the town, it’s one of the recommended sightseeing stops. Although you could well imagine this place as the site of a medieval church it has no ecclesiastical connections whatsoever, it’s rather a site of geological interest where you can puzzle at the geometry of nature and wonder about how this area, which is paved in hexagonal basalt tiles, was formed by an underwater lava flow ahead of the ice-age.

Past Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Rte. 1 advances on towards the glacial territory dominated by Vatnajökull - Europe’s largest glacier. For those who don’t have a pressing date with a certain massive attraction, there are a few appealing stops along the way deserving of a little attention, such as Foss – the pretty waterfall that flows upwards in a storm; and Dverghamrar or Dwarf Cliffs, just across the road from Foss, where a short trail leads to some ancient basalt columns lined up like soldiers; watch out for the leaning tower – a dwarf indeed compared to the one in Pisa! Further along Rte. 1 at the foot of Lómagnúpur an impressive 688m (2.257 ft) high precipice - you’ll encounter Núpsstaður, a farm with a quaint 17th century turf church surrounded by magnificent cliffs. It was home to the brave postmen, who traversed the hazardous rivers and glaciers alone, until the 1970’s. Núpstaðarskógar is a beautiful forest with glacial views, gorges and waterfalls watered by the Núpsá river west of the glacial tongue Skeiðarárjökull. This good-looking area is still relatively unexplored, mainly because the only road there is difficult - even for 4WDs. Rte. 1 continues east over the vast outwash plains of Skeiðarársandur marking some dramatic changes in landscape, the region is characterized by sharp contrasts of color, with tantalizing views of glacial tongues descending dark gorges, and tall mountains spiting out rivers of racing glacial water - and whatever else the greedy glacier has ingested over the millennia. Following the 1996 eruption in Gjálp, a volcano under Vatnajökull, a massive torrent of melt water, measuring several billion cubic metres and carrying mansion-sized ice-bergs, flooded over Skeiðarársandur washing away large parts of the road and taking two bridges with it. Amazingly the road opened again in December, only two months after the eruption.

GEOLOGICAL INSIGHT It’s an interesting fact that although glaciers cover approximately 10% of the landmass in Iceland, 60% of the eruptions so far have occurred under these massive bodies of ancient ice, often causing glacial floods called Jökulhlaups.

Skaftafell

Skaftafell is part of the now extensive Vatnajökull National Park and a masterpiece of nature; it’s illuminated by the frozen white glacial heights of Vatnajökull, and darkened to the depths by the Skeiðarársandur plains – vast stretches of black sandy wasteland and volcanic debris born from volcanic eruptions underneath the icecap. In the middle lies the Skaftafell plateau, a dynamic feast for the senses, where gorges with busy brooks, beautiful waterfalls and birch woods, of magnificent proportions, meet a wealth of wild flowers and lush vegetation. Trails in this area are mostly found on the Skaftafellsheiði (Skatfafell heath) and lead to numerous breath-taking waterfalls. Save some breath for the most majestic of them all though – the stunning Svartifoss, or “Black Falls” - a wonder of natural architecture plunging over a wall of symmetrical basalt columns resembling a pipe-organ. Other trails from the visitors center lead to the glacial tongue Skaftafellsjökull and it’s stranger and more serrated sister Svínafellsjökull. If you’re tempted to climb, then do so with an expert glacier guide. You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is

For those who have difficulty hiking up to the Skaftafellsjökull glacier, check at the visitor center for an alternative route with wheelchair access. Vatnajokull National Park – vjp.is Vatnajökull. Covering a surface area of around 8,100km2 / 3127sq. miles Vatnajökull is Europe’s largest glacier

pressing its force down upon more than 8% of the country. The average ice thickness is 400m / 1312ft, though it can reach a maximum of 950m / 3117ft in places. Iceland’s highest mountain, Öræfajökull occupies one of the southern extremities of this multitongued monster, with Iceland’s highest peak Hvannadals-hnúkur, extending to a height of 2110m / 6923ft. Because of its unique combination of natural wonders and disasters, all concentrated into one area, this region of the Vatnajökull National Park is an important center for the study of natural science. Visitors hungry for more knowledge can swat up on the nature, culture and history of the area by checking out the exhibitions or attending lectures at the Visitors Center. Vatnjokull National Park - vjp.is Skaftafell to Höfn

Ingólfshöfði. Driving east from Skaftafell, a flat-topped projection of coastal land comes into view, rising above the sometimes shimmering vast plains. This area is known for its historical significance as well as its rich bird life, and takes its name from Iceland’s first settler Ingólfur Arnason, who probably spent his first months here. Kvíarjökull. For a quieter and less-tried taste of a glacial tongue, pay a visit to the narrow protrusion of Kvíarjökull, 39km east of Skaftafell. The location is marked by a turnoff and visible in the distance. In preparation for the spectacular vision of Jökulsárlón (The Glacial Lagoon), visit first the scenic Fjallsárlón and Breiðárlón lagoons, which offer variations of Iceberg calving activity on a smaller scale.

The Glacier Lagoon - Ever watched the way ice cubes slowly shift and turn as they melt in your glass of mineral water? Now imagine that on a glacial scale, and sit yourself in a boat amidst the ice cubes. House-sized, blue-tinted ice cubes about a thousand years old. This is the Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon, a few hours east of Reykjavík (371km) along Iceland’s south coast. Most visitors to Iceland visit the glorious Blue Lagoon, but boating around the lesserknown Glacial Lagoon is an even more magnificent and bizarre experience - though it’s not recommended to join the seals for a dip. The scale of these mini-bergs is breathtaking, but the beauty is also in the detail. Each iceberg picks up sediment from the surface of the water, becoming marked by a new black band each time it is tipped over on its side during the melting process. After a few flips, this leaves the lagoon strewn with strangely striped icebergs. Or are Iceland’s trolls and giants just preparing for a game of noughts and crosses?

jokulsarlon.is Hólmur. If by now you’re desperate for a café and you can’t hold out for another 33km (21miles) to the next patch of civilization at Höfn, we recommend a stop at Jón Ríki restaurant and brewery - 781 Höfn – jonriki.is Ice-cream addicts will have to drive a little further to the Brunnhóll guesthouse which is famous for this home-made frozen treat.

Brunnhóll – brunnholl.is

Höfn simply means harbor and as its name suggests it’s a bustling fishing village and port. With the giant Ice-cap of Vatnajökull framed in the background, Höfn has perhaps the most impressive backdrop of any other in the country. As well as being a commercial centre, the village is also known for its agriculture and farming community. After all that wilderness, Höfn provides an essential stop-gap with a few shops and places to rest and repose. But, just in case you need to find out more about those fascinating glaciers, there’s an interesting exhibition at Gamlabúð Visitor Centre, Litlabrú 2, dedicated to glaciers, geology and animal life of the area. Open daily from May – September, between 10:00am to 18:00 (6pm).

visitvatnajokull.is