Travel the Northeast

Travel Iceland with Iceland Travel

Travel the Northeast

The Northeast of Iceland is an expansive region with its own enchanting collection of diverse landscapes and superb scenery - filled to the brim with super-nature. Though it may not be endowed with the ‘fire’ of frequent eruptions and the ‘Ice’ of massive glaciers, it’s still home to some rather impressive attractions, including treasured fishing rivers and legendary landmarks such as Lake Mývatn and Dettifoss - Europe’s most powerful waterfall. With the Krafla central volcano and its feverous geothermal areas located at the core, this beautiful region still beats, though be it quietly, with a molten heart. This region is part of the Arctic Coast Way, Iceland’s first scenic byway. More information is at arcticcoastway.is.

Northeast Coast

The villages and attractions of the Northeast are dotted far and wide across the region, with both coastal and inland opportunities available, or a combination of both. For the inland highlights, see the final chapter on the interior of Iceland. Heading northeast on Rte. 1 > Rte. 917 from Egilsstaðir en route to the town of Húsavík, leads to some of the country’s less visited, unspoiled landscapes which seem to resonate peacefully with pristine beauty. With its misty isolation and sacred solitude, this vast area is a magnet for those who love to explore the road less travelled, and could easily qualify as the land that time forgot. Please note! Not all the roads are surfaced in this region and you will likely encounter regular stretches of gravel road. These unsurfaced roads can be tricky and dangerous, if not treated with caution.

Vopnafjörður

Established in the late 19th Century, Vopnafjörður is a picturesque village on the northeast coast, with beautiful waterfalls, coastal cliffs and black sandy beaches. Unsurprisingly its establishment as a trading post and its prosperity is rooted in the fishing and fish processing industry. Three lush valleys Selárdalur, Hosárdalur and Vesturárdalur line the landscape here, and are divided by two of Iceland’s first class salmon rivers – the plentiful Hofsá river and the Selá

river - with a combined annual catch of around 2,500 salmon they make tempting treats for ardent anglers! Bustarfell is a nicely preserved 19th century row of farmhouses, fronted with striking crimson façades and topped with tidy turf. The preservation now operates as a museum, café (Croft Café) and occasional concert hall. Visitors to the museum are taken on a journey through the history of farming and changes in lifestyles from the beginning of the 18th century, to the mid 20th century. Most of the artifacts in the collection - including handmade chess pieces and set of baby booties, knitted with human hair - are very distinctive and help to create an impression of what rural life was like in former times. Open daily JuneSept 20, between 10:00am - 17:00 (5pm). Bustarfell 690 Vopnafjörður – bustarfell.is

Bakkaflói and Langanes

Heading north Rte. 85 cuts inland and exits in the bustling little village of Bakkafjörður which has a varied coastline featuring crowded seastacks teeming with birdlife and numerous little coves and cliffs. Nearby in the Bay of Bakkaflói stands the old farm and church Skeggjastaðir, dating from 1845, the place has been very well maintained and is worth a quick visit. While in the area look out for Stapi, a little further west of Skeggjastaðir, where a strange looking rock rises sharply out of the sea. Langanes is a narrow peninsula, shaped remarkably like a great goose taking flight from the body of Iceland. With such a resemblance, it seems perfectly fitting that this peninsula is populated with a diversity of interesting birdlife. Langanes is the territory of many species such as the Pink-footed Goose, with colonies of King Eider and the scarce Brünnich’s Guillemot. For a closer peek, head to the bird-hide in Lambanes (Rte. 869) on the northern coast of the peninsula. If Gannets are your glory then you’ll be very pleased to learn that the sea stack Karlinn, just in front of Skoruvíkurbjarg on Langanes (smack, bang on the great goose’s forehead!) is home to the largest colony of Gannets in the northeast.

ISN’T IT GOOD, SIBERIAN WOOD? the shores of the Northeast are “white” with driftwood originating in the rivers of Siberia. It’s estimated that the driftwood takes around five years to reach Iceland after a lengthy trip around the north pole, and is finally delivered to the northeast shores by the East-Greenland Stream. With Iceland’s lack of forests this abundance of driftwood was highly valued and used for building homes, boats and furniture. Perhaps the only people who didn’t see this wood as a godsend were the witches and sorcerers burned during the middle ages on driftwood pyres. The Northeast, with its wealthy supply of this sea-born treasure, has the dreadful record of torching the most.

Þórshöfn

Nestled in the cove of Lónafjörður in the broad Þistilfjörður fjord is Þórshöfn - a small but lively village and service centre, and the launch point for excursions into Langanes. Before heading out to explore the misty moorlands and driftwood beaches, make a stop at the Sauðaneshús museum for information on fishing, birdwatching and horseback riding in the area. Sauðanes – 681 Þórshöfn

Melrakkaslétta

Raufarhöfn, located on the shingle shores of the Melrakkaslétta peninsula, is Iceland’s northernmost village - at least on the mainland. It was once at the core of the herring industry, attracting people in their thousands for employment, but since the decline in herring, the population and prosperity has diminished significantly. Dotted around the area is a treasure of lovely lakes and ponds ideal for fishing and bird watching. A pleasant trail leads from Raufarhöfn to the Ólafsvatn lake. The village also offers a good service stop, and its tourist center at Hotel Norðurljós provides information and resources on the entire Melrakkaslétta region. Aðalbraut 2 – hotelnordurljos.is The Arctic Henge. On a hill just north of the town, a 54 m (177 ft.) sundial henge is under construction, inspired by the mythical world of the Edda poem Völuspá (Prophecy of the Seeress). When completed a large crystal perched on top of an 8 m (26 ft.) column will throw the light of the arctic sun upon the henge, and its 72 pillar dwarf path, which traces the passage of time over the course of a year. Each dwarf pillar will specify its name and character, and visitors will be able to locate their own birthday dwarf! Rauðinúpur. Located on the northwest tip of the peninsula, just a few kilometers south of the arctic circle, this impressive crimson-tinted sea stack, generates an ‘edge of the earth’ type of fascination.

Back on the Rte. 85 to Húsavík, the road curves into Öxarfjörður or Axe fjord, which rather resembles a broad bay than a fjord, and through the tiny hamlet of Kópasker. Continuing south (on a much smoother road) through the complex shallow lakes of Bakkahlaup, the road leads to Ásbyrgi – a great ‘U’ shaped gorge at the northern end of the magnificent Jökulsárgljúfur canyon.

ÁSBYRGI – THE GODS’ BASTION. According to legend, this distinctive clifflined landmark and its hoof-shaped form was created by a mythical creature called Sleipnir - Odin’s giant eight-legged horse. As the story goes, one starlit night while the great Norse god Odin was riding his horse through the heavens, he descended a little too close to the earth, so close that Sleipnir touched down with one hoof and tore up the surface, thus creating the magnificent Ásbyrgi. Alternatively, it could have been created by a massive ancient glacial flood. Apparently no human witnesses were around at the time to confirm either story, so we’ll never know for sure!

Vatnajökull National park

Jökulsárgljúfur (Rte. 864 & Rte. 862). Gargling with the purest water, even with a twist of lemon, will not help you pronounce this national treasure of Iceland. But trying is a fun challenge and a recommended activity! This tongue-twisting natural wonder translates as Glacial-River-Canyon, and sums up its basic features, but to elaborate on its more distinguishing qualities, Jökulsárgljúfur is a deep 100 m (328 ft.) rugged canyon, extending 30 km (18.5 m) south of Ásbyrgi, and is divided by a 35 km stretch of the mighty Jökulsá á Fjöllum glacial river. Located within the extensive Vatnajökull National Park region, the area is renowned for its wondrous rock formations and thunderous falls, such as Dettifoss - touted regularly as Europe’s most powerful waterfall. Dettifoss (Rte. 864/862). The knowledge that this is Europe’s most powerful waterfall, does not quite prepare you for its breathtaking formidable force. The immense column of white-foaming water thundering over a 44 m (144 ft.) drop, dispatches some 500 m3 (17,658 ft.3) of water per second, creating a magnificent and terrifying vision of the sheer force of nature, even the ground beneath you vibrates. See also the neighbouring falls Hafragilsfoss and Selfoss, though captivating, they are significantly dwarfed by the force of Dettifoss.

Hljóðaklettar (or Echo Cliffs) is a great labyrinth of reverberating crags and basalt rock formations, located on the west side of the canyon (Rte. 862). Many of these fascinating structures are patterned with honeycomb textures, which act as sound processors coloring the noise of the river with interesting levels of distortion. For another sensational walking experience visit the Hólmatungur nature reserve, accessed from the same road, featuring colorful rock formations and rich flora.

Húsavík

Back on Rte. 85, the road stretches west and around the periphery of the Tjörnes peninsula, where fossil fanatics can stop at the Hallbjarnarstaðir farm to study their collection of local specimens. About 12 km further along the road you’ll reach Húsavík – the whale watching capital of Iceland. This charming town, complete with a pleasant fishy fragrance, is situated in a picturesque fjord surrounded by majestic mountains topped with snow, even in the summertime! It’s also a thriving commercial center for the surrounding agricultural areas, as well as a busy fishing port. The town is now wellknown from the popular 2020 film Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga You can book your tour in your app or on the Iceland Travel website - icelandtravel.is

For centuries, the residents of Húsavík have leveraged the mineral-rich hot sea water provided by geothermal energy. Now, you can also enjoy the benefits of bathing in these warm waters by making a visit to GeoSea, a brand-new outdoor bathing facility. While you are enjoying a soak, be sure to take in the spectacular views of the mountain range to the west and the Arctic Circle to the north. Opening hours and admission prices are available on their website. Geosea.is

The Húsavík Whale Museum, is the only museum on marine mammals in Iceland, and provides information on whale species, their evolution and biology, as well as whale stranding and the history of whaling. Open daily from April - October, November - March open during weekdays. Hafnarstétt 1 – whalemuseum.is

Recommended café and restaurants in Húsavík include Gamli Baukur located right at the pier in a charming house made mainly of drift wood, and the Salka restaurant on Garðarsbraut. South of Húsavík Rte. 85 divides into two new roads, Rte. 245 and Rte. 87, both leading to the Mývatn area.

Egilsstaðir to Mývatn

From Egilsstaðir to Mývatn Rte. 1 threads 167 km (104 miles) through the Fljótsdalur valley, the uplands heaths of Jökuldalsheiði, and a cold desert of barren plains, covered with volcanic ash and glacial deposits. Remains of settlements dating from 1841–1946 can be seen in this area, formerly occupied by inhabitants who fled to America after the volcanic eruption of Askja in 1875. On a clear day, the lack of vegetation on this route is compensated for by the fascinating vistas, featuring remote lakes, rocky passes and rushing streams. But, when the rain shadows and the mist descends, obscuring the view, the atmosphere becomes charged with an eerie presence, creating the brooding mood and scenery that ghost stories are made of! Sænautasel. To break up the long journey west, visit Sænautasel Rte. 901> 907, an unexpected restored turf farm on the desolate Jökuldalsheiði heathlands. Situated by a lake with pleasant green surroundings, it creates a welcome vision, seemingly from another age. The farm dates back to 1843 and was operational until 1943, except for the period between 1875-1880 when the ash from the Askja eruption made the site uninhabitable. Farm life on this high heath was extremely difficult and consisted more or less of trying to keep the sheep alive from year to year. The farm was restored by the local community and is kept open during the summer, exhibiting its antiques from bygone times in their proper setting.

Möðrudalur Rte. 901. Standing at an altitude of 469 m (1,539 ft.) overlooking the magnificent Mt. Herðubreið, this remote sheep farm, which dates back to the Saga age, is Iceland’s highest farm. Since the settlement of Iceland it was crossed by two Saga trails (Bishops and Sámur) and was an important waypoint for Icelanders for many years. With its quaint Fjalladýrð Café it’s still providing good food and accommodation for weary travelers. Note, Rte. 901 may be closed outside of the June-September period. Möðrudal – fjalladyrd.is Dettifoss. Rte. 864/862. The interior gravel roads to Dettifoss are usually open from mid June to mid September. If closed head to Húsavík on Rte. 87>85 and around the Tjörnes peninsula for access from the other side.

MANGA OF MÖÐRADALUR The last pastor of Möðrudalur – Bjarni Jónsson, is said to have been haunted by the ghost of his first wife Margrét ‘Manga’, who tragically died during the birth of their first child. Before she died the pastor promised her that he would never marry again, but when he broke his promise, her ghostly presence caused quite a commotion, especially with his subsequent wives.

The Mývatn Area

Mývatn is an extraordinary area full of geological marvels and teeming with life. The unique characteristics of the lake and its unusual environment have made it one of the Northeast’s major attractions, especially with its combination of rich bird life, ecology, and geothermal activity. During the summer the bird population explodes and the lake is covered with countless species, making good use of the waterside’s rich fauna and flora for nesting. The area is protected by international law as an important breeding area, so it’s definitely not the spot for trigger-happy hunters! But, for some harmless bird-watching, look out for ducks, ducks and more ducks - all Icelandic species bar the Eider, breed in this area. Assuming you know your birds, you can also spot some great Northern Divers, Red-necked Phalaropes, Slovenian Grebes, Redthroated Divers and Merlins. If you’re lucky you may even spot a Gyrfalcon or two.

THE MIDGES OF MÝVATN When you discover that the translation of Mývatn is ‘Midge Lake’ you’ll understand why some people visiting the area are sporting strange looking head-nets, while the less savvy and fashion conscious are seen desperately flapping their arms around their heads. The midges don’t bite, but because they are attracted to carbon dioxide, they tend to head straight up your nose and into your mouth.

The Krafla Central Volcano is part of the Greater Krafla Volcanic System (a swath of faults and fissures 4-10 km (2.5-6 miles) wide and 80 km (50 miles) from north to south) and not to be confused with the gentle nearby mountain ‘Krafla’ that lent its name to both areas. The caldera (not the crater) of the Krafla Central Volcano is located at the center of the volcanic system; its sizable ring - which has diameter of 10 km (6 miles), is difficult of make out from the ground. This volcano’s rise to blazing fame arrived with the ‘Krafla Fires’ of the 70’s and 80’s, when huge curtains of lava spewed from a system of fissures inside the huge caldera. The Kafla Geothermal Area (Rte. 863) is located within the caldera and includes many of the attractions the region is known for, such as the mud bubbling, steam venting fields of Hverir, the smoldering lava fields of Leirhnjúkur (see below) and the Víti crater. The word “víti” translates as “hell” which is inspired by the ancient belief that volcanoes were the gateways to the netherworld of eternal damnation. If you’re curious about how geothermal heat is cleverly converted into electricity, check out the exhibition at the Krafla Geothermal Power Station, also on Rte. 863.

Leirhnjúkur (Rte. 863). In this surreal area you can witness the still smouldering lava fields from the 1975 - 1984 eruptions. A vast magma chamber lies under the region, in some parts as close to the surface as 3 km (1,9 miles). From the car park, a circular footpath leads around the volcano

and up to its summit, where there’s a beautiful view over the impressive volcanic landscapes. Don’t let the incredible surroundings distract from your vigilance though, beware of light colored earth when crossing the hightemperature areas and wear good walking boots; especially on rainy days when there’s a considerable amount of mud, making the area super slippery. Námafjall. Close to Rte. 1 south of the Krafla region, this mountain ridge is singed and boiled by sulphurous vapours. The area is famous for its colorful solfataras and fumaroles, where a collection of hot viscous mud pools create a rhythmic bubbling soundtrack to accompany to the fabulous colors and patterns created within. Note, please be very careful here and show extreme caution. The mud is scorching hot and the splashes are unpredictable. The Nature-Baths (Rte. 1) This geothermal spa is the North’s answer to the famous Blue Lagoon in the South. Like its southern counterpart, it contains a unique blend of minerals, silicates and geothermal microorganisms, giving the water a pearly blue appearance. This relatively new spa has remarkable views over the lake and is the perfect warm and wonderful place to relax and witness some of those sensational Icelandic summer sunsets. Jarðbaðshólar – 660 Mývatn –myvatnnaturebaths.is

Lake Mývatn. With every season revealing a new perspective of the same landscape it’s difficult not to be impressed with the diversity of Iceland; whether it be the pretty green shades of summer or the dazzling contrasts of basalt rock on the fiery reds and oranges of the birch forests in autumn. Lake Mývatn, for example, is lush and lovely during the summer months; but the lesser observed winter can set a completely different scene, with snow-laden banks and frosted foliage that frame an enchanting image of the lake’s swans as they glide through the misty waters, permeated here and there by golden rays of sunlight. Yes, contrary to popular belief, the sun does shine in the winter, even if only for a few hours. The lake itself, is shallow but amongst the largest in Iceland, with a surface area of 36 km2 / 14sq. miles. It’s situated in the Great Krafla Volcanic System, not far from Krafla Central Volcano and was created by a large basaltic lava eruption 2,300 years ago. The surrounding landscape is dominated by impressive volcanic landforms, such as the incredible ‘black castles’ of Dimmuborgir, see below. Reykjahlíð. Arriving in the small village of Reykjahlíð, Rte. 1 delivers you to the northeast shore of the lake, from here, there’s a well-marked trail connecting some of the best sights the region has to offer including Grjótagjá, Hverfjall and Dimmuborgir. Grjótagjá (Rte. 860) is a water-filled chasm inside a cave, and was once a popular place to bathe - until the ‘Krafla Fires’ erupted. The clear blue water still looks very temping, but it’s

too hot to take a dip. The water is slowly cooling, so hopefully in a few more years people will be able to enjoy a soak like they used to. Note, steps down to the water can be tricky. Hverfjall is a circular tephra ring, which resembles a giant moon crater. It was formed around 2,800 years ago during an explosive eruption near Mývatn. The bowl measures 1,040-1,200 m (3.4113.936 ft.) in diameter and 150 m high (492 ft.). It’s a fairly easy climb to the top.

Dimmuborgir. Translated as “Black Castles”, this is a magnificent lava landscape, with a labyrinth of caves, rugged crags and strange lava formations - one of the most impressive sculptures is an enormous arch, known as Kirkjan (The Church). There are three different routes marked for walking, but don’t wonder off the marked paths, you may not find your way back to civilization! Höfði is an impressive nature park with rich flora, fauna and panoramic views of the lake. Skútustaðargígar Pseudo Craters. On the south side of Lake Mývatn there’s cluster of colorful and beautifully formed pseudo craters situated close to Skútustaðir - easily accessible on foot. The Bird Museum (Fuglasafn Sigurgeirs) is a fascinating private collection of Icelandic birds, now open to the public. Ytri Neslöndum –660 Mývatn – fuglasafn.is

If you have the time to spare and would like to visit Askja Caldera, please contact our customer care for further information.

Recommended café in Mývatn include the Vogafjós Café Rte. 1 located inside a cowshed where you can observe the milking process, and try out the taste of fresh raw milk. The cows are milked twice per day, and customers are encouraged to have a go at milking as well. The emphasis is on home made local food such as smoked trout, Mozzarella cheese (from their own milk) and geyser bread, baked uniquely in the hot earth. vogafjos.net Gamli Bærinn is a small café and casual restaurant, with a nice atmosphere close to Hotel Reynihlíð.