VIE Magazine February 2023

PHOTO BY ED GUTENTAG

Heritage Dunes, Seagrove Beach, Florida

On the Cover

Small-scale cruising allows guests to personalize their itineraries for an unforgettable experience. Paul Gauguin Cruises, a boutique luxury cruise line under PONANT, was inspired by and named after impressionist artist Paul Gauguin and his love for the island cultures of the South Pacific. The cruise line offers immersive voyages to French Polynesia, Tahiti, Fiji, and the South Pacific, including impeccable accommodations aboard the 330-passenger MS Paul Gauguin and a wealth of activities so passengers can appreciate the beauty and rich cultural landscape of these island nations.

PRESENTLY TRANSPORTING PASSENGERS AROUND THE VIBRANT CITY, THE LISBON TRAMWAY HAS BEEN A GREAT WAY TO EXPERIENCE CULTURE AND ARCHITECTURE IN PORTUGAL’S CAPITAL SINCE 1873.

FEATURE

70 Time to Get Away: Luxury Traveling with Paul Gauguin Cruises

VOYAGER 23

24 Far Corners of the Caribbean: Island Life from North to South

31 L’intermission: Letting Go

32 Adventure to Antarctica

38 Prague and Budapest: A Tale of Two Cities

44 It’s Time to Set Sail: Discover Les Bateaux Belmond

Vie is a French word meaning “life” or “way of living.” VIE magazine sets itself apart as a high-gloss publication that focuses on human-interest stories with heart and soul. From Seattle to NYC with a concentration in the Southeast, VIE is known for its unique editorial approach—a broad spectrum of deep content with rich photography. The award-winning magazine was founded in 2008 by husband-and-wife team Lisa and Gerald Burwell, owners of the specialty publishing and branding house known as The Idea Boutique®. From the finest artistically bound books to paperless digital publication and distribution, The Idea Boutique provides comprehensive publishing services to authors and organizations. Its team of creative professionals delivers a complete publishing experience—all that’s needed is your vision.

PUBLISHED BY

48 Petite pause: Immersed in Nature

50 Head in(to) the Clouds

56 Magic on the Mountain: Eat, Relax, Ski, Repeat

63 L’intermission: Flow Like a River

64 Passport to Portugal: Tour Europe’s West Coast Gem

LA MAISON 73

74 Spanish Revival: Breathing New Life into a California Farm

79 Petite pause: A Swiss Dream

82 Stewardship Sustains at Southall

90 A Wealth of Waterfront Parks

95 L’intermission: World-Renowned Stay

C’EST LA VIE CURATED COLLECTION 86

LE MONDE 97

98 Blessed Journeys with Friends

102 Children’s Volunteer Health Network Sets the Stage for Act II

105 Petite pause: A National Treasure

106 Panama City Beach: Real Fun Events in 2023

LA SCÈNE 112

THE LAST WORD 117

AU REVOIR! 121

WITH SIX ROUTES

Photo courtesy of Paul Gauguin Cruises

Photo courtesy of Visit Lisboa

CREATIVE TEAM

CEO / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

LISA MARIE BURWELL

Lisa@VIEmagazine.com

FOUNDER / PUBLISHER

GERALD BURWELL

Gerald@VIEmagazine.com

EDITORIAL EDITOR

JORDAN STAGGS

Jordan@VIEmagazine.com

ASSISTANT EDITOR

EMME MARTIN

Emme@VIEmagazine.com

CHIEF COPY EDITOR

MARGARET STEVENSON

COPY EDITOR

WENDY ANDERSON

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

SARAH FREEMAN, MYLES MELLOR, CAROLYN O’NEIL, SUZANNE POLLAK, XENIA TALIOTIS, CATHY WHITLOCK

ART AND PHOTOGRAPHY

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

TRACEY THOMAS

Tracey@VIEmagazine.com

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER SALLY NEAL

CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER

HANNAH VERMILLION

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

LAUREN ATHALIA, HUNTER BURGTORF, KATIE DESANTIS, MARIANNE DUFFEY, CHAD DYAR, AZAMAT ESMURZIYEV, JACK GARDNER, ED GUTENTAG, ELLIOTT HOWELL, KATE KASIUTICH, JEFF LANDRETH, HOLLY LEPERE, TIM MCKENNA, CARLO PIERONI, ROMONA ROBBINS, DAVE WARREN, A&J PHOTOGRAPHY, BFA, MODUS PHOTOGRAPHY, SHUTTERSTOCK, UNSPLASH

ADVERTISING, SALES, AND MARKETING

DIRECTOR OF MARKETING

KELLY CURRY Kelly@VIEmagazine.com

MARKETING COORDINATOR

ADDIE STRICKLAND

MARKETING INTERN

HAILEY BETHKE

BRAND AMBASSADORS

LISA MARIE BURWELL Lisa@VIEmagazine.com

ALEX CURRY

Alex@VIEmagazine.com

MARTA RATA

Marta@VIEmagazine.com

AD MANAGER

ADDIE STRICKLAND

Addie@VIEmagazine.com

SOMEWHERE Over the RAINBOW

Let’s Go!

When it comes to travel, the planning of a journey is half of the fun. No matter if it’s for a quick weekend getaway or an extended trip, the excitement and anticipation lift my spirit just thinking about all that needs to be done before making the great escape from my daily life routines. And, after being grounded by the pandemic for two years or so, who doesn’t need a good getaway?

A jaunt across the pond to Ireland this past fall was my first international trip since 2019. I was more excited than usual to visit my home away from home—the untamed region of Connemara in County Galway—a four-hour drive from Dublin. Though the Irish highway network has been greatly modernized over the past twenty years, the tight and curvy country byways will elevate the heart rate of even the most experienced Yankee driver. And what breath the drive doesn’t take away, the raw natural beauty of the Connemara landscape will steal. It never gets old, no matter how many times I have seen it: the inspiring and majestic quartzite summits of the Twelve Bens that preside over expansive vistas of rolling hills carpeted by thick wire grass and valleys sprinkled with glimmering lakes and whitewater streams. The closer I got to my destination, the more relaxed I became. My worries and cares were shed with each breath of the clean and exuberant air. The lush greenery, blue skies, and untouched beauty can only be described as something like a scene from Emily Bronte’s 1847 novel, Wuthering Heights. It’s my happy place.

The trip—a girl’s getaway to Connemara with my sister Marianne—was just what the doctor ordered after a very grueling few years of keeping the business operating during, and in the aftermath of, the pandemic. I fell in love with this region when I first visited it as a teenager with my other sister, Laurie. The fact that the stunning Connemara countryside remains relatively unchanged after all these years is one of the reasons I love it so much. I feel like I have been transported back in time to when life was simpler. The local natives are the friendliest I have encountered anywhere in the world, with friends and neighbors saying upon our arrival, “You’re welcome home.”

Connemara is a place where I can be carefree and feel like a kid again. It is where I can breathe the invigorating sea air, talk to all sorts of farm animals while on long walks, explore new sites, hike Diamond Hill,

enjoy horseback rides on the beach, and truly linger in a quaint bookstore. These are just a few things that give me pause and make me thankful for the short space of time to do so. That is what is most fulfilling about traveling afar. It is the best way to recalibrate and get realigned to enjoy the sweetness of life—and that is the great blessing of what traveling can do for us all.

Somewhere over the rainbow, the skies are blue, and the dreams that you dare to dream really do come true.

To Life—and Adventures!

—Lisa Marie CEO/Editor-in-Chief

Photos, top to bottom: The most beautiful rainbow over Cleggan Bay in Moorneen, Cleggan, Co. Galway, Ireland

Marianne Duffey and Lisa Marie Burwell on the moor in Connemara

Lisa near the fireplace at Oliver’s Seafood Bar on Cleggan Pier

Photos by Marianne Duffey

The Creatives

We collaborate with talented photographers, writers, and other creatives on a regular basis, and we’re continually inspired by how they pour their hearts and souls into their crafts. Follow these creatives on social media and don’t forget to check out our account, @viemagazine.

IN THIS ISSUE, WE ASKED THE CREATIVES: WHAT DESTINATION IS AT THE TOP OF YOUR TRAVEL BUCKET LIST IN 2023?

ALEX CURRY

VIE Brand Ambassador @30acurry

I think at this moment, I would have to put a European excursion at the top of my list, with Vatican City and the surrounding area being my central focus. Being surrounded by all the history, food, and wine seems like an unforgettable vacation!

hotel in Morocco in VIE’s June 2022 issue, I fell in love with its beautiful colors, architecture, and overall cultural richness through the photographs. I would love to visit one day and experience it in person!

I CAN’T WAIT FOR THE DAY WHEN I GET TO RIDE ON HORSEBACK DOWN THE CAUSEWAY COAST AND WATCH THE WAVES ROLL IN!

JORDAN STAGGS

Editor @jordanlstaggs

Scotland has been calling my name this year. It seems like I see photos and videos everywhere I turn of adventures along the Scottish coastlines and through its historic cities and idyllic countryside. I’d love to explore Edinburgh and head up the coast to Aberdeen to catch the end of Elton John’s farewell tour this summer!

ADDIE STRICKLAND

Ad Manager/Marketing Coordinator @addie.strickland_

One of my dream destinations—or more like a dream adventure—would be skiing in the Swiss Alps. Who wouldn’t want to do that?

SALLY NEAL

Senior Graphic Designer @sallyneal__

My top travel list destination at the moment is the Amalfi Coast. I can’t imagine anything better than sipping unlimited Aperol Spritzes under the Italian sun. Sign me up!

EMME MARTIN

Assistant Editor @emmemartin

I’m fortunate to learn about so many beautiful destinations through articles in this magazine. For example, when we did an article on the Royal Mansour

HANNAH VERMILLION

Graphic Designer @hannahcvermillion

If I had to choose one place, it would be Northern Ireland. I can’t wait for the day when I get to ride on horseback down the Causeway Coast and watch the waves roll in!

I FELL IN LOVE WITH ITS BEAUTIFUL COLORS, ARCHITECTURE, AND OVERALL CULTURAL RICHNESS THROUGH THE PHOTOGRAPHS.

VIE Loves You!

We love connecting with our readers and seeing what’s been happening in the community this season. Don’t forget to share, post, and tag VIE in all your exciting conversations and experiences! There is nothing we enjoy more than hearing your stories and sharing them with our audience. Thank you, and happy reading!

@edgutentag Sitting here @effineggusa in Inlet Beach, Florida, having my latte, fresh-squeezed OJ, and toasted everything bagel w/ cream cheese, looking @viemagazine and swooning over the double-page spread of the drone shot I did for @thesmileof30a & @lisamburwell of VIE. Thanks, Linda Miller & Lisa Burwell, for this opportunity!

@jordanlstaggs Dreaming about Palm Springs and @modernism_week 2022 with @viemagazine, @arlonjay, and @drewauker. Read the story on VIEmagazine.com when you search “Design in the Desert.” #ModernismWeek Cul-de-Sac Tour sidebar by @anthea_gerrie included!

@thesavagefilm Who’s Ready? February 13 at the Saenger Theater in Pensacola, come out to the premiere of Savage, a new feature film! 6:00 p.m. Red Carpet | 7:00 p.m. Showing. Thank you, @mariahbradyphoto.

@kdb17 Hooks, Lines & Singers | Thank you, @30afest & @culturalartsalliance, for bringing such a magical weekend of music to our beautiful area! @30acurry and I are loving every minute of covering 30A Songwriters Fest for @viemagazine!

@sculptstudio30a “Sculpt Studio isn’t just another gym; the Jacksons aim to redefine the relationship between a conventional yoga flow class and a challenging HIIT workout.” Thank you, @viemagazine, for highlighting us in your annual wellness issue.

LET’S TALK!

Send VIE your comments and photos on our social media channels or by emailing us at info@viemagazine.com. We’d love to hear your thoughts. They could end up in the next La conversation!

VIEmagazine.com

@jonahallenstudio I spent five years photographing the Florida coastline from a helicopter. Here are some shots from my new book, where waters meet.

For more information, visit NPS.gov.

A native of Glacier Bay National Park breaches for a quick picture before submerging back into the frigid waters. The national park is located in Southeast Alaska, west of Juneau. The vast richness and variety of the 3.3-million-acre preserve’s landscape are home to over forty mammal species, including the humpback whale, which spends summers in the cold Alaskan waters. Visitors willing to wait may experience this beautiful display of nature in its rawest form.

Photo courtesy of Glacier National Park

by carolyn o’neil

Corners Caribbean Far of the

island life from north to south

The Caribbean Sea is dotted with island jewels varying in geography from white sand beaches to tropical jungles, mountainous terrain to coral reefs. Each offers a diverse mix of ethnicities, languages, cultures, and cuisine. Let’s visit two sparkling examples in the far corners of the Caribbean—Bonaire in the south and the Turks and Caicos in the north. The appeal of swaying palms and lapping waves is a common theme, yet the destination details are distinctively different.

bonaire: a blue destination

Designated as the first Blue Destination in the world, Bonaire is fiercely proud and protective of its waters, wildlife, and cultural ways. All visitors are encouraged to sign the Bonaire Bond, pledging to understand and respect the island’s natural ecology

both under the sea and on the land. That means lose the plastic water bottles, choose a reef-friendly biodegradable sunscreen, and please don’t feed the flamingos. Since the water surrounding Bonaire is a protected National Marine Park, expect to pay a required Nature Tag fee as a contribution to the ecoconscious mission. So while tourism is encouraged, this island paradise is serious about preserving the beauty of Bonaire for today and tomorrow.

it’s in our nature

One of the most beautiful sights on Bonaire is a flamboyance (a flock) of pink flamingos. Their diet of algae and tiny brine shrimp brings on the pink, and that’s why you’ll see fifty shades from pale to brilliant as a flamingo matures. Bonaire is home to over two hundred species of birds, including the Caribbean parakeet and the endangered yellow-shouldered parrot.

Sometimes protecting nature means eradicating a destructive species. Enter the lionfish, originally from the Pacific Ocean but now on the hit list for destroying Caribbean marine life. Happily, lionfish are delicious to eat, but it does take a pro to clean this pesky invader because of its venomous spines! Doing all of the work and earning all of the smiles is the Cactus Blue Food Truck, famous for serving up lionfish burgers with a spicy sauce and fresh lemonade.

Left, below, and opposite: Experience a dreamy getaway in the Turks & Caicos with Wymara.

Photos courtesy of Wymara Resorts & Villas

The vibrant flamingos of Bonaire are famous.

Photo courtesy of Bonaire Tourism

bonaire beaches and beyond

While scuba diving is a major magnet for water sports lovers, Bonaire is also great for snorkeling, paddleboarding, windsurfing, and a kayak ecotour through the mangroves. Hop out of your kayak and snorkel around to spot barracuda and other fish nibbling on mangrove roots.

Or perhaps you might prefer the ease of slipping into the clear blue waters of a palm-lined beach like the one at the peaceful Harbour Village resort. Just steps from your lounge chair, you can dip below the waves to swim with an aquarium of colorful tropical fish and then raise your hand to signal the bartender for another

Craving more water with a side of food and wine? Melisa Sailing elevates a sunset cruise with an onboard chef’s tasting menu, including citrus-marinated tuna, beef tenderloin with white chocolate garlic sauce, and rum baba with banana compote and coconut ice cream.

Traveling inland, another world awaits. To the south, witness an expanse of pink salt flats, where the briny stuff is harvested from evaporated seawater. To the north, experience a magical tour of towering boulders, cactus fields, wandering donkeys, and tiny villages. In Rincon, founded as a pirate hideout, you’ll find

Top: Free dive with thousands of colorful fish and other marine life in beautiful Bonaire.

Photo courtesy of Bonaire Tourism

Above: A kayak or paddleboard tour through the mangroves is a great way to see the islands.

Photo courtesy of The Looking Glass Watersports and Adventures, Turks & Caicos

Right: Experience another side of Bonaire with a jeep tour through Washington Park.

Photo courtesy of Bonaire Tourism

treasure at the Cadushy Distillery, known for cactus liqueurs and an awardwinning rum. Step into history at the Mangazina di Rei Exhibition to learn how thorny cactus fences are carefully constructed and why iguana—an island food source—is still referred to as “Bonaire Chicken.”

let’s go dutch

Located just fifty miles off the coast of South America, Bonaire is part of the Dutch Caribbean’s “ABC islands” along with Aruba and Curaçao. So get ready to hear a lot of Dutch being spoken and meet vacationers from the Netherlands. Grocery stores are well stocked with Dutch treats such as Gouda cheeses, Heineken, and traditional stroopwafel cookies.

The Dutch influence on Bonaire is delightfully expressed in the restaurant scene, where many chefs are professionally trained in the Netherlands but celebrate preparing local fish, such as snook and wahoo, with island produce and spices. The Bamboo Bonaire Boutique Resort’s onsite restaurant, CHEFS, offers an exceptional dining experience with one seating a night for up to sixteen guests who watch the chefs cook, assemble, and serve a carnival of exciting courses. Friends since culinary school, chefowners Han ten Winkel and Mark Tromop take turns describing the exquisite dishes (in Dutch and English) such as Caribbean snook filet with a chicharrón crumble, sweet corn beurre blanc, and lobster oil. Then how about guinea fowl with black truffle sauce and malanga chips? The evening concludes with more drinks while guests and chefs chat about the evening’s menu and other adventures on Bonaire.

To the north, experience a magical tour of towering boulders, cactus fields, wandering donkeys, and tiny villages.

Left: A dreamy Bonaire sunset

Photo by Elliott Howell, courtesy of Bonaire Tourism

Below: Enjoy upscale Caribbean cuisine by Chef Andrew Mirosch at Wymara in the Turks & Caicos.

Photos courtesy of Wymara Resorts & Villas

turks & caicos: all of the blues

It’s as if the entire spectrum of blues in the crayon box sparkles to life in the waters surrounding the Turks and Caicos Islands. As sunlight bounces off the white sand below, the color blue illuminates the sea in striking shades of turquoise, teal, and aqua. Consistently awarded as having the best beaches in the world, the sand here is sugar white, soft, smooth, and cool under your toes.

Part of the Lucayan Archipelago, the Turks and Caicos Islands are perched on the northeastern edge of the Caribbean region, situated on a marine shelf leading to the Atlantic Ocean. The sheer drop in depth from forty feet of water to thousands draws game fish enthusiasts who don’t have to travel far from shore to find deep-sea fishing adventures.

clearly beautiful

Viewing the crystalline blue waters through a kayak or paddleboard constructed of completely clear polycarbonate is the ultimate above-water experience. Guided tours with Looking Glass Watersports are the perfect way to spot sea turtles swimming beneath you and a conch shell hiding in the mangrove seagrass.

The salt pans of Bonaire create a unique pink hue alongside the brilliant white sand and cerulean sea.

Photo courtesy of Bonaire Tourism

Top right: Unforgettable meals on the beach in Bonaire

Photo by Elliott Howell, courtesy of Bonaire Tourism

Top left and far right: Relax and let the Turks & Caicos waters wash all your cares away.

Photos courtesy of Wymara Resorts & Villas

Venturing further, private boat charters take snorkelers to prime locations to swim with rainbows of tropical fish on the coral reefs and to tiny outer islands to join lazy iguanas sunning on the beach.

a british island

The Turks and Caicos Islands are an easy flight from the US and are located near the Bahamas. But prepare to drive as they do in the United Kingdom—on the left side of the road—because you’re now in a British Overseas Territory. The airport is in Providenciales, nicknamed “Provo.” This is where you’ll find gorgeous Grace Bay Beach and many fine hotels, including the elegant Wymara Resort and Villas. Wymara’s dedication to sustainable hospitality while maintaining a luxury-level experience is commendable. Whether you’re reclining poolside at a spacious private villa overlooking the sea or socializing at the hotel’s Pink Bar beachside, you’ll find organic skin-care products in the spa, landscapes irrigated with recovered water, and alternatives to single-use plastics.

caribbean cuisine

The hotel’s restaurant, Indigo, sets the scene each evening with a casually chic crowd enjoying Caribbean conch chowder, freshly caught grouper, and mahimahi. The star of the dinner show is the expertise of Wymara’s culinary director, Chef Andrew Mirosch, who hails from Queensland, Australia, and is a licensed fisherman. This is the place to discover the deliciousness of seasonal large lobster tails from local waters grilled perfectly on “the barbie” or poached in butter and rum with lime, garlic, and chili.

Vegetarian and vegan dishes get the chef’s special attention, too, with creations such as compressed watermelon carpaccio with pickled beets and grilled cauliflower steak with toasted almonds and chimichurri. On Saturdays, there’s a beachfront Texas BBQ dinner with twenty-four-hour smoked brisket and all the trimmings, including live music and moonlight under the palms.

To start planning your visit to some of the Caribbean’s lesser-known islands, head to BonaireIsland.com and TurksandCaicosTourism.com. For accommodations, be sure to check out HarbourVillage.com and WymaraResortandVillas.com.

Carolyn O’Neil is an award-winning Atlanta-based food writer who specializes in culinary travel and healthy lifestyles. She believes that travel is the ultimate way to learn about the people of the world and that cuisine is the most exciting way to learn about their histories and cultures. Visit her blog at TheHappyHealthyKitchen.com.

This is where you’ll find gorgeous Grace Bay Beach and many fine hotels, including the elegant Wymara Resort and Villas.

Letting Go

In anticipation of Maroma, A Belmond Hotel, Riviera Maya reopening, our sights are set on the property’s luxurious wellness amenities known for utilizing the healing powers of nature. Deep tranquility is within guests’ reach among a jungle oasis surrounded by lush greenery and turquoise sea. The resort also boasts the first Guerlain Spa in Latin America, whose menu will include signature face and body treatments and experiences designed around the Mayan wellness philosophy of healing through sounds and nature. Beyond the treatment rooms, the resort will offer once-in-a-lifetime experiences such as Mayan bee explorations, Riviera Maya adventures via a classic convertible, and snorkeling through reefs and bays rich with turtles. Each program aims to reconnect guests with their inner peace.

Love,VIE

To learn more or book your stay ahead of Maroma’s reopening in May 2023, visit Belmond.com.

Photo courtesy of Belmond

ADVENTURE TO

ANT ARCTICA

By Xenia Taliotis Photography courtesy of Chimu Adventures

We set off for Antarctica under fire. Bullets of skin-bruising, bonesaturating rain and hail pelted us as we boarded our ship in Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city on the globe—otherwise known as the “fin del mundo,” or the end of the world. Beyond this point, land plummets into the sea, resurfacing at the White Continent—the bottom of the world.

Remote, wild, vast, mysterious, majestic, beautiful, deadly Antarctica— the windiest, coldest, driest, and most hostile land on our planet—lay more than one thousand kilometers and two days away. Between us and it was the most treacherous body of water on Earth—the Drake Passage. This volatile Jekylland-Hyde channel, where the Atlantic, Pacific, and Southern Oceans collide, shows occasional benevolence under the guise of Drake Lake. Still, more often than not, it rages as the Drake Shake.

Ocean Endeavour, our Chimu Adventures-chartered polar cruise ship, hit the passage just as Drake calmed down from an outburst. Though our expedition leader had delayed our departure to avoid the worst of the violence, we still had to pound through furious waves that rose like demons from the depths, throwing

our vessel from one swell to the next. So many people were felled by motion sickness that the restaurant and bars were left largely deserted, occupied only by those who, like me, have the sea in their blood or—less poetically and certainly more accurately—legs as sturdy and solid as an anchor.

Whenever Drake’s waves allowed, I went on deck to scan the sea and sky for wildlife. Soon there would be whales and dolphins, but at the start of our journey, all the action was in the air. Various petrels glided toward me, looping in and out; in their midst was the magnificent wandering albatross. With a wingspan of up to three and a half meters, it is the largest bird on Earth and lives almost entirely on the wing, going on land only to breed. Sighting that remarkable creature was the first of many times I was moved to tears on this voyage.

R

The next day dawned infinite and blue. Having crossed the Antarctic Convergence, we were officially in Antarctica and drifted through ice floe gardens toward our first landing—Danco Island. Ahead of us, an iceberg—a huge, ethereal, ice-blue presence—rose out of black waters, drawing gasps of wonder from the passengers. It was one of the most beautiful sights I had ever seen, its luminous, mesmerizing blueness resulting from nature’s alchemy: over millennia, the snow and ice on glaciers become so compacted and dense that all the long-wavelength colors are absorbed, and only the shortwave aquamarines are reflected.

In preparation for our first disembarkation, we attended briefings on how to safeguard Antarctica, its residents, and ourselves. While tourism’s impact on this still-pristine wilderness can’t be eliminated without banning visits, we can limit it by sticking to the rules, the foremost of which is to remember that we are guests of the wildlife that lives here. We were told to stay a respectful distance from the animals—at least five meters from the penguins and more for breeding birds and seals—and before we left the ship for our first landing, all our expedition clothing was vacuumed to prevent contamination. Additionally, our boots were disinfected before and after each visit to the shore.

We boarded our Zodiacs and chopped past leopard, fur, and crabeater seals lumbering down on ice floes and penguins porpoising (jumping) in formation before we disembarked in small groups for strictly timed explorations of Danco Island. There we experienced our own live episode of a wildlife television documentary as we watched Gentoo penguins feed their chicks and make the slow, arduous climb along their highways from the water to their colonies. It was a lesson in dealing with the knocks life gives us. Heads down against the blizzard, walled in by snow, the penguins’ choice came down to climb or die. They walked on, and they fell. They got up. They climbed. I admired their resilience, determination, and perseverance and wished I had one drop of it flowing through my veins.

We visited more Antarctic islands on other days, and each time, our voyage took us through scenes of such extraordinary beauty that they made my heart swell to accommodate them. I learned a new vocabulary to describe what I saw: When is an iceberg not an iceberg? When it’s smaller than four and a half meters, it’s called a bergy bit. And what’s a pancake when it’s at sea? A circular piece of ice, of course. Similarly, whales don’t jump, they breach; they have flukes, not tails; and they have blowholes, not spouts.

Our expedition leader urged us to go on deck one morning to experience the wonder of the Lemaire Channel, a narrow iceberg-filled passage flanked by steep, dazzlingly bright, snow-covered cliffs with summits in the heavens. Often blocked by ice, Lemaire had only allowed one other ship through that season, so we all—down to the most seasoned crew member—felt among the luckiest people alive.

Every day I did or learned something new, and every day I experienced something extraordinary, a shifting of perception, and an even deeper appreciation of nature and our environment.

Beyond this was Port Charcot, where our walk across the snowfields was rewarded by views of the Wandel Peak, the 980-meter (3,215-foot) mountain that has yet to be conquered. Again, our groups took turns to land and cruise. When we were in our Zodiacs, our drivers cut the engines so we could listen to Antarctica. On land, it is possible to hear nothing except your own heart and breath, but out on the water, we listened to the constant snap, crackle, and pop of ice, the barking of seals, and the calls of nature.

I saw things I didn’t expect to see in Antarctica—a desolate whaling station on Deception Island where the remains of boats, animals, buildings, and humans have created a mournful museum that is gradually being claimed by nature, and a post office at Port Lockroy, on Wiencke Island, from which I sent myself a postcard. It arrived in London six weeks after I did.

Every day I did or learned something new, and every day I experienced something extraordinary, a shifting of perception, and an even deeper appreciation of nature and our environment. Sometimes I had to check that I had heard things correctly. For example, was it true that this was the only place in the world where you could sail into an active volcano? The answer was yes: Deception and Half Moon Islands are in the caldera.

When I stepped foot on mainland Antarctica, as opposed to its islands, I felt the sense of isolation the continent had promised me. Despite the presence of others, and while still respecting the rules and the wildlife, I was able to walk just far enough away from my shipmates to sink into a literal and metaphoric stillness, the like of which I’d never experienced.

Looking out into that eternal white, I saw the “void space” explorer Ernest Shackleton wrote about and got some tiny hints of the disorientation that comes from having no trees or shrubs, no paths or markers to give perspective and bearing. I turned my back on my group and gave my mind a chance to fall into a landscape of such pure elemental force that, for a few seconds, it stopped me from breathing. I saw the truth of Antarctica and the power of nature unchecked. This was a place that tests and rewards the body and spirit in equal measure, and also one that had pushed so many to a point beyond what could possibly be endured.

The White Continent showed me that the saying “it’s never as good as the first time” was untrue. No matter how many times I saw a whale breach or blow, no

This was a place that tests and rewards the body and spirit in equal measure, and also one that had pushed so many to a point beyond what could possibly be endured.

matter how many glaciers I sailed past, no matter how many penguins I watched struggle up their highway or lower their heads against the wind, I never felt anything but astonished and awed by the sheer majesty of Antarctica. It taught me humility and put me in my infinitesimal place.

Back home, I remembered the vast quiet, the huge roar, the struggle, and the fights to the death or to live, and I wondered if it was all a dream. Then I’d look through my photographs and get a sense that I had traveled back in time—that the sights that met me were the same sights that had met those early explorers who first landed on this raw, wild mass. Long may that remain so.

Xenia Taliotis traveled to Antarctica with Chimu Adventures on their Best of Antarctica Cruise. The starting price is $9,808 AUD ($6,710 USD), based on a Category 4 cabin. The company has several Antarctic itineraries from which to choose. Visit ChimuAdventures.com for details.

ANTARCTICA

PACKING ESSENTIALS

Layering is the key to staying warm. I averaged five layers on top, four on my legs, and three on my feet.

You’ll need thermals—long-sleeved vests and leggings, two or three base layers on top of that, and a good fleece beneath your parka.

Woolen socks, worn on top of socks and/or tights.

Gloves—one thin pair with another thicker, waterproof pair on top, plus a balaclava or hat and neck warmer.

Parka and waterproof trousers. I stayed snug and dry in borrowed skiwear, but had the weather been bad, I might not have fared so well. Many people opted for heavy-duty polar wear, which would have withstood blizzards.

Muck boots. Ocean Atlantic provides these, but not all operators do. These are essential—you won’t be able to get away with hiking boots.

Sunglasses. UV-protected, wrap-around shades with polarized lenses to reduce glare are best. Try to buy the best you can afford.

Sunscreen and lip balm are essentials. There’s a hole in the ozone right above Antarctica, which means that the ultraviolet sun will be beating down on you. Make sure your sunblock will protect you from UVA and UVB rays.

Good camera equipment. Sadly, I only had an iPhone, but the make of choice for serious photographers seems to be Canon.

Binoculars. Again, spend as much as you can. Choose something lightweight, water-repellent, and powerful so you can bird- and whale-watch with perfect clarity.

Read the details your Antarctic tour operator sends you. Beg or borrow (but don’t steal) everything you’re advised to take, or you’ll be miserable.

A Tale of Two Cities

PRAGUE AND BUDAPEST

By Cathy Whitlock

The Hungarian Parliament building beside the River Danube

Photo by Kate Kasiutich

Opposite: St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague

Photo courtesy of Prague City Tourism

Often upstaged and overshadowed by their well-known European counterparts (including London, Paris, and Rome), Prague and Budapest are equal in beauty, history, culture, and, above all, charm. Located in the Czech Republic and Hungary, respectively, these unique Central European cities have their distinctions, resulting in well-deserved spots on many top-ten travel lists.

PRAGUE: THE CITY OF A HUNDRED SPIRES

Known for its mix of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture, the city received its nickname in the nineteenth century due to the number of spires on its various cathedrals, churches, and towers (it should be one thousand-plus at this point). Nowhere is this more evident than the impressive Prague Castle, known as the largest castle complex in the world (covering seven football fields) and built in the ninth century. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s a beauty you can’t miss—be sure to catch the changing of the castle guard at noon! Equally majestic is the St. Vitus Cathedral, which houses treasures dating back to the fourteenth century and is considered the largest temple in Prague. Take a walk back to the sixteenth century at the majestic Lobkowicz Palace. Privately owned, the palace’s museum collection includes world-famous paintings by Velázquez and Bruegel, decorative arts, musical instruments, and scores from the likes of Mozart and Beethoven, plus a spectacular city view from the restaurant.

A CITY FOR STROLLING

One of the most popular attractions in Prague is the Old Town Square, which is filled with cafes, shops (decorative glass is quite popular), Bohemian art galleries, and a Gothic church or two. The medieval Astronomical Clock is an Instagramworthy spot. Situated over the Vltava River, the medieval stone and statue-lined Charles Bridge is ideal for a morning walk. Be sure to touch the statue of John of Nepomuk on the bridge for good luck!

BUDAPEST: OLD WORLD ELEGANCE ON THE DANUBE

With roots dating back to the first century AD, the capital city of Hungary, Budapest, is a city of contrasts. It was once divided into “Old Buda,” “Buda,” and “Pest” sections; today, many families dwell on the hillier Buda side while Pest is more urban. Designated the “Pearl of the Danube,” the photographic city survived the Nazi occupation and the 1956 Hungarian Revolution (with bullet holes left in the buildings to prove it).

For history and architecture buffs, add the seven-towered neo-Gothic style Fisherman’s Bastion (which boasts the city’s best views) and the world-famous St. Stephen’s Basilica to your itinerary. Considered an architectural masterpiece, the Basilica’s gallery also offers panoramic vistas; just be prepared to climb the three hundred steps (a lift takes visitors two-thirds of the journey).

Beautiful day and night, one of the city’s most photographed structures is the Hungarian Parliament Building, located on the banks of the Danube. Rivaling that of London, the interior boasts 10 courtyards, 691 rooms, and 29 staircases. Be sure to book a ticket ahead of time, as the city’s most popular attraction draws more than 700,000 visitors annually.

TIME FOR A SOAK

Budapest has 123 hot springs that comprise some of Europe’s largest (and most decorative) thermal bathhouses. The mineral-filled waters are said to cure a variety of ills, from cat’s wail (the common hangover) to migraines and achy joints. The city’s most famous bathhouse is the opulent Széchenyi Baths, which features massage rooms, indoor and outdoor pools, and even a beer bath year-round. Expect to see chess players plotting their next move on stone boards in the water.

COME FOR THE ARCHITECTURE, STAY FOR THE FOOD

Both cities are known for their unique culinary delights. The Czech Republic produces some of the best brews in the world as the perfect accompaniment to its native foods, such as Grilované klobásy (grilled sausage that is perhaps the world’s biggest hot dog). Other popular dishes include palačinky (crepe-style Czech pancakes), roast duck, fried cheese, and chlebíček (open-faced sandwiches). Learn how to pour the perfect foamless beer at Červený Jelen, experience Czech and Indian dishes in Old Town’s V Zátiší, or enjoy a more modern international menu at Mlýnec with a view of the Charles Bridge.

Budapest’s most famous dish is Hungarian goulash, a combo of beef stew and soup in a paprika-seasoned broth. At the same time, langos (deep-fried flatbread topped with sour cream and cheese—think Hungarian pizza), chicken paprikash, and stuffed cabbage contribute to its reputation as a premier foodie capital. For an elegant dinner, make reservations at the world-famous Gundel, located by the city’s zoo (everyone from Queen Elizabeth to Robert Redford has been a patron), or stop at Séf Asztala for a quick bite before taking selfies at the Parliament Building across the street.

Above and right bottom: The gorgeous Anantara New York Palace hotel in Budapest harks back to Europe’s Belle Époque era of the late-1800s.

Right top and below: From grand breakfasts at Chef András Wolf’s New York Café to drinks at the famous Poet Bar, Anantara New York Palace doesn’t disappoint when it comes to dining.

Photos courtesy of Anantara

Prague has a romantic beauty—idyllic, alluring, and just waiting to be discovered. It is a true walking town where you can wander for hours among the cobblestone streets, hidden courtyards, and colorful stucco buildings.

Above: The holidays in Prague are sure to be magical.

Photo courtesy of Prague City Tourism

Left: The NH Collection Prague Carlo IV hotel is a former bank and celebrates its original architecture in the lobby and common areas.

Photo courtesy of NH Collection

Right: Prague’s Old Town Square

BORN TO SHOP

Whether you like to window-shop or search for luxury, Gucci, Armani, and Louis Vuitton share real estate with neighboring mansions on Budapest’s stylish Andrássy Avenue. Save room in your baggage for porcelain (Hungary is the home of Herend), painted eggs, crystal, and hand-embroidered linens.

Luxury shopping such as Hermès, Dior, Bottega Veneta, and Dolce & Gabbana can also be found in Prague’s Parizska (“Paris Street” in English). In addition, bohemian crystal and wooden toys, marionettes, decorative calendars, and notecards from the Kafka Museum make great souvenirs.

WHERE TO STAY

A Heritage-protected nineteenth-century neo-Renaissance palace houses the five-star NH Collection Prague Carlo IV, where luxury and elegance meet

history. The former home of a bank, the welcoming lobby pays homage to its history through the original teller windows, marble floors, ceiling frescoes, Ionic columns, and giant palm trees. Centrally located to shopping, restaurants, and attractions, the hotel offers cocktails in The Vault bar (the original bank treasury room) and dining on Czech delights at the 1890 restaurant. The atmospheric heated swimming pool, spa, and contemporary guest rooms filled with antiques offer the best of both worlds and do not disappoint.

Photo by Azamat Esmurziyev

Also located in a former palace, the Anantara New York Palace in Budapest is an ode to Europe’s golden era of Belle Époque that dates back to 1894. A mix of Italian Renaissance, Art Nouveau, and Baroque, the palace is a marvel with symmetrical arches, gilt accents, patterned marble flooring, ceiling frescoes, and exquisite attention to detail, while the bedrooms are all glam—cool, sleek, and modern with fabulously large bathrooms. Best of all, guests can sip a martini at the hundred-year-old Poet Bar or dine at Chef András Wolf’s New York Café, which makes you feel like you are on the set of HBO’s The Gilded Age. Heralded as the most beautiful café in the world, it was the gathering spot for Budapest’s poets and writers and today enjoys status as a “see and be seen” spot. Legend has it that writer Ferenc Molnár once threw the hotel’s keys into the Danube, ensuring the property could never close.

WHICH CITY TO VISIT

Prague has a romantic beauty—idyllic, alluring, and just waiting to be discovered. It is a true walking town where you can wander for hours among the cobblestone streets, hidden courtyards, and colorful stucco buildings. Spared from the ravages and destruction of World War II, the city’s bridges and structures can be found in their original state. Budapest exhibits a bigcity feel, as the streets are more like avenues, and the neighborhoods are spread out. Well-planned tours, a river cruise on the Danube, or a guide map and public transportation are the best forms of sightseeing. If you love grand palaces and palatial hotels, are game for gastronomic discoveries, and are an art and architecture aficionado, add both cities to your travel bucket list!

Visit Prague.eu and BudapestInfo.hu to learn more and start planning your trip.

If you love grand palaces and palatial hotels, are game for gastronomic discoveries, and are an art and architecture aficionado, add both cities to your travel bucket list!

A stunning sunset view of the enormous Prague Castle complex and Charles Bridge over the Vltava River

Photo courtesy of Prague City Tourism

At La Florida, we’re committed to being completely focused on you. We provide clarity and understanding of the Emerald Coast real estate market taking your goals, honing in on your specific criteria and presenting the information you need to make an informed decision to buy or sell. We bring service, integrity and excellence to every transaction and have done so for more than 40 years.

That’s the La Florida Difference.

Heritage Dunes as photographed by Jeff Landreth.

Sail Set

elmond is delighted to announce the launch of a luxury barge, part of its unmatched French collection: Coquelicot, A Belmond Boat, Champagne. Debuting in May 2023, Coquelicot will take guests on a cinematic journey of Champagne in partnership with Maison Ruinart, the world’s oldest champagne house. Designed by successful French duo Humbert & Poyet, the boat, formerly the Hirondelle barge, will set a new standard of sophistication for slow-paced sailing in France.

Coquelicot features three spacious cabins with marble ensuite bathrooms, an extensive outdoor deck, and an indoor salon and champagne bar stocked with a curated selection of the guests’ preferred labels. The vessel’s top deck will be the social center for guests to unwind as they meander the calm waterways. Framed by potted local herbs and indigenous wildflowers that root the space in the locale, the deck features two seating lounges, an open kitchen, and a shaded dining area to enjoy a menu inspired by seasonal ingredients from trusted local suppliers.

To complement the ever-changing views and create an intimate sanctuary on the water, the barge’s interiors and exteriors will capture the essence of Champagne, with nods to the region’s hues and character. Local fabrics in earthy tones and raw materials will honor Champagne’s agricultural heritage, while fluted walls, decadent interiors, and pieces of art will pay homage to the land’s glorious gifts. Coquelicot’s namesake, the red poppy, will be found in subtle references such as the hand-cut red marble side tables and the tone-on-tone hand-painted petals that line the hallway. At the same time, the lounge’s skylight is a celebration of Champagne’s water-mapping legacy.

Elevating the river barge journey, Belmond has partnered with Maison Ruinart to offer exclusive access to the first established House of Champagne with a private tasting lunch by chef-in-residence Valérie Radou and guided tours of the historic Taissy vineyard to discover the brand’s latest sustainability initiatives. Guests will disembark Coquelicot for unrivaled access to Taissy, which has been referenced as early as 1733 in the Maison’s archives. Immersed in the hillsides of the Champagne region, Maison Ruinart, in partnership with Reforest’Action and the University of Reims, launched a pioneering viti-forestry project in 2021 to preserve and regenerate forests to restore biodiversity. Also dotting the grounds is a new art installation by German visual artist Nils-Udo, a pioneer of land art. A technical tasting of iconic Maison Ruinart cuvées, led by a Maison ambassador, will conclude the morning experience in the vineyard.

ack on board, Belmond guests will be treated to a private five-course tasting lunch by Radou and the Coquelicot head chef. It will be the first time Maison Ruinart’s chef will cook a private “four hands” lunch outside the Maison. A true lesson in French art de vivre, this dining experience includes five seasonal dishes inspired by regional cuisine paired with prestigious cuvées such as Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs and Dom Ruinart Rosé. Framed by the idyllic landscape and in the comfort and privacy of their luxury boat, guests will delve deep into the world of Maison Ruinart as their ambassador reveals the story, characteristics, and technical aspects of each bottle.

Personal guest experience executives will help craft customized itineraries depending on guest preferences. Whether an art-focused tour of Champagne, a historic voyage through the mighty castles, an active adventure on two wheels, or a series of epicurean visits to Europe’s most celebrated and most secret wine producers, guests will have the liberty to design their journeys and marvel at the region’s treasures at their own pace. Alternate an al fresco soirée on the top deck with an off-board Michelinstarred restaurant experience or a less inhibited dinner in one of the quaint villages scattered across the region. The all-inclusive journeys include table d’hôte meals, complimentary beverages, all planned excursions escorted by a private guide, and a transfer from Paris to the barge. Helicopter transfers from Paris are also available upon request. Bon voyage!

Coquelicot, A Belmond Boat, Champagne, is part of Les Bateaux Belmond, the luxury travel brand’s unrivaled collection of boats in France. It is available for week-long private charters starting from €82,000 (approximately $79,500). The fleet also includes Alouette, A Belmond Boat, Canal Du Midi; Pivoine, A Belmond Boat, Camargue; Napoléon, A Belmond Boat, Provence; Amaryllis, A Belmond Boat, Burgundy; Fleur de Lys, A Belmond Boat, Burgundy; and Lilas, A Belmond Boat, Burgundy. Visit Belmond. com/boats to learn more or book a voyage.

The vessel’s top deck will be the social center for guests to unwind as they meander the calm waterways.

Petite pause

Immersed in

At Bolt Farm Treehouse, located in Whitwell, Tennessee, guests can choose from a variety of treehouse suites where they can enjoy the feeling of being on top of the world and reconnecting with themselves through nature. The mountain retreat offers luxury treehouse-inspired accommodations surrounded by breathtaking views that calm the mind and invigorate the soul. In addition, guests can immerse themselves further in activities such as paragliding, hiking, horseback riding, paddleboarding, and yoga.

Visit BoltFarmTreehouse.com to book your stay or learn more.

Photo by Chad Dyar, courtesy of Bolt Farm Treehouse

Nature

HeadClouds IN(TO) THE

B y SARAH FREEMAN

Photography courtesy of MASHPI LODGE

More than just a gateway to the Galapagos, Ecuador’s mainland is brimming with natural riches too. A soft adventure to its cloud forests promises hikes to ethereal waterfalls, aerial rides through the treetops, and encounters with rare species found nowhere else on earth.

Not seen, but most definitely heard, a clamorous flock of bronze-winged parrots rustles in the canopy while a collared trogon flaunts its head-turning plumage like a showgirl. It’s a scene that unfolds two hundred feet above ground from an open-air gondola, which affords passengers a parakeet’s-eye view of the canopy.

From glow-in-the-dark fungi to mantled howler monkeys, biodiversity bristles from the roots of the trees all the way up and over their crowns in this stunning swathe of forest in the Andean foothills of northwestern Ecuador. Painting the landscape fifty shades of green as far as the eye can see is Mashpi, a 3,200-acre reserve nestled in the heart of the Chocó Bioregion. This vast wilderness spans one of the world’s most important biodiversity hotspots.

An exemplar of sustainable tourism, Mashpi and its namesake luxury expedition lodge’s story is rooted in conservation. In 2001, the former director of WWF Ecuador, Roque Sevilla, procured the land from a timber company. Making use of an already laid network of logging roads, the long-time environmentalist built a luxurious cocoon in the cloud forest where a sawmill once stood. Remarkably, not a single tree was razed in its or Mashpi’s mile-long cable car’s construction. Christened The Dragonfly, the five-year feat of engineering maneuvers noiselessly so as not to stress wildlife such as three-toed sloths, which are adapted for a quiet life in the treetops.

Ten minutes into the renewably powered ride, I spotted the serene waterfall where our group of three had cooled off an hour earlier on the Magnolia Trail. It’s one of eleven walking paths that thread through Mashpi’s life-nurturing forests. Guests can choose from a range of daily guided excursions— including trekking to a community-run cacao farm and visiting the onsite butterfly sanctuary—which are categorized by physical difficulty.

Most activities begin on (rubber-booted) foot from the twenty-four-room lodge, a contemporary architectural ode to the natural world hewn out of glass, recycled steel, and wood. Despite its remote setting, Mashpi has all the trappings of a fivestar hotel. While boasting a sustainable spa, an outdoor hot tub with a yoga deck, and sleek forest-facing picture-windowed rooms, the modern monolith also turns out fine-dining cuisine.

The building’s centerpiece is a tri-storied, glass-fronted restaurant designed to invite nature (but thankfully none of its critters!) inside. Our evening’s three-course dinner began with an Andean potato soup, followed by caramelized pork belly with panela sugar and seasonal vegetables, culminating with a delightfully fluffy blackberry mousse. In keeping with Mashpi’s eco ethos, the menu—described as a modern spin on traditional Ecuadoran cuisine—celebrates Pichincha province’s bountiful larder. In the spirit of locavorism, locally harvested cacao and coffee, organic fruits sourced from communities in the buffer zone, and lodge-grown herbs also enliven its dishes.

Just as guests are winding down for the evening, the reserve rouses from its afternoon slumber—a realization I made while splish-splashing along Torrenteer Lagoon, a shallow stream whose banks thrum with life. Ever attentive to the forest’s smells and sounds, my guide, Luis Puente, found furry spiders on the underside of leaves, giant owl butterflies, and translucent frogs, which provide the soundtrack to nocturnal walks. Although pumas and oncillas (an endangered spotted cat) stalk these forests, Mashpi’s magic is manifested through smaller creatures like bioluminescent scorpions, which Puente uncovered for me not far from the lodge’s entrance.

Excursion bound, the next day I set out on the Copal Trail, which (mercifully) is reinforced with recycled plastic crates on its steeper and slippier segments. “The word Mashpi means ‘friends of water,’” local Anderson Orosco revealed, as rain—two hundred and fifteen inches of which nourishes the reserve annually—sobbed down on our poncho-wearing group. He’s one of Mashpi’s twelve naturalist guides, many of whom are former loggers, miners, or hunters-turned-custodians of the cloud forest who hail from the reserve’s six bordering communities.

Differentiated from their rainforest cousins by their higher elevations and cooler temperatures, cloud forests host species specially adapted to this unique ecosystem, like the moss-backed tanager. Endemic to the Chocó cloud forest, the olive, violet-blue, and yellow bird even inspired Mashpi’s logo. However, one of the reserve’s most extraordinary species isn’t an animal but a champagne-scented flowering plant called Mashpi magnolia. Locals nicknamed it cucharillo after its little spoon-shaped petals, which rain down on the forest floor like cream-colored confetti.

Above and right: From hiking to stunning waterfalls to soaring over the cloud forest via cable car or sky bike, activities at Mashpi are never in short supply.

“A soft adventure to its cloud forests promises hikes to ethereal waterfalls, aerial rides through the treetops, and encounters with rare species found nowhere else on earth.”

Mashpi magnolia is one of ten discoveries of newto-science species (which include a luminous tree frog and a pencil eraser-sized orchid) made in the last decade at Mashpi. Research and biology director Mateo Roldán and his team of para-biologists and visiting PhD students are at the cutting edge of cloud forest conservation. “Fifty percent of species live in the forest canopy,” Roldán remarks of this understudied habitat zone. Curious guests can tap into his wealth of knowledge at the reserve’s pioneering research station, located a whisper from the main lodge.

Above: Nature is at the heart of the lodge in all aspects, including its design. The lodge respects the environment and invites it indoors via huge windows and ample outdoor living space.

“An exemplar of sustainable tourism, Mashpi and its namesake luxury expedition lodge’s story is rooted in conservation.”

The learning spilled over into lunch (a tangy ceviche and quinoa soup) as a flock of chattering birds stirred around the dining room, six of which I managed to identify. That’s six of a staggering four hundred avian species that call Mashpi home!

On my final morning, I woke to find the trails veiled with thousands of cobwebs transformed into glittering chandeliers by supersized raindrops. Eerily beautiful and atmospheric, it set the mood for a thrilling thirty-minute tandem sky bike ride across a river gorge. One of the reserve’s most popular activities, the pedal-powered contraption soars through the treetops, suspended from a zipline. “Finally, the cloud forest is living up to its name,” I mused, my legs dangling two hundred feet high over the swirling mist that shrouds parts of this ecosystem daily. As the tree-hugging fog slowly rose, so did our sure-footed group as we scaled the nearby eight-story observation tower. In addition to rewarding us with 360-degree views of the reserve, the leafy aerie is a birder’s paradise, where we admired a toucan barbet proudly surveying its territory.

Back on terra firma, more feathered friends awaited us at Mashpi’s hummingbird garden, where these pint-sized powerhouses dart in and out of nectar-filled feeders with a sonorous hum. “Males position themselves in the sunlight to show off their iridescent colors to attract a mate,” Orosco explained. The reserve hosts some twenty hummingbird species, including the velvet-purple coronet endemic to the Chocó. Mesmerized by their aerial mastery, our group slipped into a contented silence. Our heads, as well as hearts, were most definitely in the clouds.

Mashpi Lodge is located just a three-hour drive from Ecuador’s capital, where you can bookend your trip with a stay at Casa Gangotena, a five-star heritage hotel in Quito’s sixteenth-century Old Town. The sister property of Mashpi Lodge, it’s owned by Ecuadoran-founded Metropolitan Touring, a socially and environmentally responsible travel company that can arrange your vacation. Visit Metropolitan-Touring.com to start planning!

Right: Bird-watching is a continual pastime at Mashpi, home to over four hundred avian species, including around twenty species of hummingbirds.

Below: Educational programs for all ages are key to helping guests understand the surrounding cloud forest’s unique biosphere and why it should be protected.

“Our group slipped into a contented silence. Our heads, as well as hearts, were most definitely in the clouds.”

By Jordan Staggs

On the mountain, things are quiet. The fresh, perfect powder cascades and swirls around the skiers who are taking lessons, gliding heavenward on the lift, then descending via the hundreds of available trails that spiderweb over the mountains. In the valley, at the heart of it all, lies an old mining town turned vibrant tourism destination—Park City, Utah.

Winter activities in Park City, Utah, range from skiing and snowboarding to hiking, sleigh rides, sightseeing, and, of course, après-ski dining and entertainment.

Photos courtesy of Visit Park City

eat, relax, ski, repeat

ust about a forty-minute drive from Salt Lake City International Airport, Park City has all the world-class runs for skiers and snowboarders of any age or skill level, plus a rich cultural scene, a laid-back West Coast attitude, year-round events and activities, and an incredible dining scene. A stroll down Main Street comes with breathtaking alpine views from all angles.

In early December, there was a buzz among locals and visitors alike as the first fresh, powdery snow of the season had just fallen, and everyone was anxious to take advantage. But first things first—after a day of traveling, as evening fell over the mountains and the new snow cast a soft filter on charming Main Street, it was dinnertime.

There are plenty of places to eat, drink, and be merry in beautiful Park City, and hitting all of them would require a whole trip in itself, but here are some highlights on the top of our list for fueling up!

THE EATING ESTABLISHMENT

Whether you’re getting ready for a day of skiing, shopping, or family activities, stop by for breakfast at this Park City staple. Weekend brunches with friends and casual dinners or drinks are also great here, with the rustic design, televisions for watching the game, and a full bar inspired by its sister property, Bar-X, in Salt Lake City. “Under the guidance of chef Brendan Kawakami, the menu preserves the original spirit of a ‘breakfast all day’ restaurant while adding a few new comfort food elements to round out the day (and night),” the establishment says on its website. You can’t beat the loaded baked potato omelet for a hearty breakfast, completed by fresh greens topped with Grandma’s dressing and thicksliced toast with delicious preserves. For Modern Family fans—did I mention actor and comedian Ty Burrell owns the place?

DRAFTS BURGER BAR

Inside Westgate Park City in the resort areas known as Canyons Village, Drafts is the spot for watching all the biggest sporting events, grabbing breakfast or lunch before (or after) you hit the slopes, or meeting up with friends for a casual dinner and drinks. And although its impressive lineup of domestic,

imported, and draft beer—with over fifty to try and twenty on tap—is the star, this family-friendly gastropub also serves over-the-top milkshakes with toppings like Pop-Tarts, Oreo cookies, brownies, and more. May we suggest the “I Love Garlic” burger, the loaded tater tots, and the “I Want All the Puppies” shake (a 101 Dalmatians reference, thanks to its black-and-white Oreos; proceeds from this shake also benefit a local animal shelter)? You’ll thank us later!

RIVERHORSE ON MAIN

Welcome to one of Park City’s top-rated dining experiences! You can’t beat a beautiful dinner at Riverhorse on Main, obviously situated on the town’s picturesque Main Street. The AAA Four-Diamond and Forbes Four-Star restaurant boasts a gorgeous dining room with globe lighting, large windows, and live piano music, while the menu is carefully curated by executive chef and co-owner Seth Adams. Start your meal with the ahi tuna, bacon-wrapped shrimp, and buffalo tartare for a mouthwatering mix of sea and land. Then, get an authentic taste of Utah when you order the trio of wild game, including venison, elk, and buffalo, with truffle twicebaked potatoes. Don’t forget craft cocktails, incredible wine pairings, and dessert for the whole experience. You might be too stuffed to walk, but it’ll be worth it.

Above: Any time of year, the Edge 360 Dining Experience is a fabulous way to enjoy private fine dining at Edge Steakhouse, located at Westgate Park City Resort.

Photo courtesy of Westgate Resorts

Middle left: Sports and shakes go hand in hand at Drafts Burger Bar at the Westgate! VIE editor Jordan Staggs went for the “I Want All the Puppies” Oreo shake.

Bottom left and right: The Eating Establishment is a Park City Main Street staple serving delicious comfort foods and great beverages for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Photos courtesy of Visit Park City

DOS OLAS

Classic and authentic Mexican meets contemporary and modern cuisine as Chef Carlos Seguro implements his family recipes and a twist on other favorites at Dos Olas, located in the Pendry Plaza at Canyons Village, just a short walk from Westgate Resort. Enjoy a house margarita or a paloma while you snack on delicious fresh-made guacamole and skillet queso with a side of warm tortillas. For those looking to branch out, the cocktail, wine, and beer lists offer some adventurous libations, and the Dos Olas bar has nearly fifty tequilas and mezcals to try. Definitely do not skip dessert here—whether you opt for a trio of delicious ice cream flavors (the passion fruit is amazing!), churro ice cream sandwiches, classic flan, or berry-topped tres leches cake, you can’t go wrong.

EDGE STEAKHOUSE

Also found inside Westgate Park City, Edge offers the ultimate fine-dining experience on the mountain. Casual elegance takes center stage in the cozy dining room, with white linens, an extensive wine cellar on display, and a relaxing atmosphere perfect

for après-ski indulgence. For those who want to take it a step further or celebrate a special occasion, book the Edge 360 Dining Experience, which includes an intimate table inside your own heated Alpenglobe dining pod. The establishment, led by Chef Wayne E. Christian, has been rated one of the top steakhouses in the nation by Forbes and Wine Spectator, boasts the AAA Four-Diamond Award, and is consistently voted one of Park City’s finest restaurants. Naturally, you’ll want to try a steak, and the Snake River Farms Gold Label comes highly recommended. This hybrid wagyu-meets-Black Angus beef is tender and full of flavor. For starters and sides, order family-style so everyone at the table can try a bit of everything. The tasting menu option is perfect for those who just can’t choose! Beautifully presented by knowledgeable serving staff, each plate at Edge is about as close to perfection as one can imagine.

PARK CITY SOCIAL AID & PLEASURE CLUB BY ALPINE DISTILLING

While the name might sound risqué, it harks back to the early days of the US, when a “social aid and pleasure club” was known as a community gathering spot with a mission of helping members with financial and social situations. Owners Rob and Sara Sergent, who opened Alpine Distilling in Park City in 2016 and have since garnered awards worldwide for their top-notch whiskey (which Rob creates) and gin (Sara’s forte), strive to uphold the communal aspect of the SAPC at their stylish downtown spot just off Main Street. Formerly known as Alpine Distilling Pie Bar, the bar and lounge is also a place for charitable events, exchanging ideas, and cultural growth. “As active members of our community, we embrace our responsibility for social aid and contribute space, time, and other resources to local entities,” the Sergents share via their website. “Regarding pleasure, we built our space to provide an elegant, upscale place to relax with friends, enjoy curated cocktails, and get answers to questions you may have about what it takes to produce spirits that have been awarded Best in Show at the TAG Awards, Gin of the Year at the London Spirits Competition, a three-time Top Ten Distillery by USA Today, Best Craft Distillery by LUXlife, and numerous other accolades.” PS—they do still have homemade pie on the menu, and it’s to die for.

GET A TRUE TASTE OF UTAH WHEN YOU ORDER THE TRIO OF WILD GAME, INCLUDING VENISON, ELK, AND BUFFALO, WITH TRUFFLE TWICE-BAKED POTATOES.

Top: The Cabriolet Ski Lift brings passengers from the parking area to Canyons Village, where they can find the slopes of Park City Mountain, plus shopping and dining galore.

Westgate Park City Resort & Spa guests should take a free ride on the gondola during their stay for some beautiful Park City views and photo ops.

Opposite: Serenity Spa at Westgate Park City has an impressive list of luxury amenities and award-winning spa and beauty treatments available to resort guests and the public.

Photos courtesy of Westgate Resorts

FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR THE PERFECT SKI-IN, SKI-OUT LOCATION FOR THEIR STAY IN PARK CITY, WESTGATE RESORTS HAS GOT YOU COVERED.

and a relaxing upper body massage. Sparkling wine or cider and refreshments are included with all treatments at Serenity, as is the use of the locker rooms, lounge, hydrotherapy spa with waterfall, dry cedar sauna, and eucalyptus steam room. Westgate also offers a separate fitness center and yoga studio for those who want to add a little sweat and stretch to their stay.

From Airbnb and VRBO options to world-class resorts, there’s no shortage of places to hunker down and relax in Park City, but we recommend going for a home base that has it all.

WESTGATE PARK CITY RESORT & SPA

Enjoy a truly indulgent experience at the Westgate Park City Resort & Spa. For those looking for the perfect ski-in, ski-out location for their stay in Park City, Westgate Resorts has got you covered. This premier brand has over twenty properties around the US, and helping guests plan their perfect visit full of local activities is its hallmark. Westgate Park City Resort & Spa has over three hundred villas with views of Park City Mountain and amenities for the whole family, including multiple dining options, an indoor-outdoor pool, hot tubs, fire pits, comfy common areas, meeting spaces, an arcade, shopping and dining right outside, and, of course, walk-up access to Park City Mountain ski lift.

Not to be overlooked is the award-winning Serenity Spa, also located inside the resort. This world-class, award-winning spa focuses on each client’s needs, whether the goal is to relax, detox, or energize. An extensive menu of treatments includes massages, skin-care offerings, manicures and pedicures, body scrubs, wraps, and soaks, and salon appointments. Specific couples’ and men’s treatments are also available. Suppose you want to experience a little of everything. In that case, the Signature Serenity Pedicure Experience includes a top-notch pedicure, hydrating foot and hand wraps, a hot stone massage on your legs and feet, a gemstone collagen face mask with take-home serum,

Back in your villa, look forward to a home-away-fromhome experience with incredible views of Canyons Village. Comfort and rustic cabin style meet in Westgate Park City’s guest villas and shared spaces, with Western-inspired decor, full kitchens, and living rooms in addition to spacious bedrooms with ample closet and storage space for all your ski gear. The luxurious two-person jetted tub (an exciting discovery upon walking into the bedroom—yes, the bedroom) and the steam shower are perfect for easing tense muscles after a day on the mountain.

In addition to the casual Drafts Burger Bar and upscale Edge Steakhouse, Westgate has vending and snacks by the huge indoor-outdoor pool, the Marketplace & Liquor Store offering everything from bottles to souvenirs, and the Coffee Bar in the lobby, which proudly serves Starbucks brews and an array of grab-and-go breakfast, snacks, fresh pastries, and bottled beverages. You’ll get a chance to one-up your friends and family in the arcade and game room. Just outside, in Canyons Village, are local shops and other dining options, such as the local Red Tail Grill. There’s an endless list of activities available through the resort, and its friendly staff is ready and willing to assist with your exploration of Park City and the surrounding area, as well. Riding the complimentary gondola down the mountain is also a must-do for scenic views, so don’t miss out!

Most people visiting Park City in winter have one thing on their mind—fresh powder! Whether you’re hitting the slopes on one board, two skis, a mountain bike, or on foot, this destination in the Wasatch Mountain Range has hundreds of ski runs, trails, and activities to enjoy with some of the most beautiful vistas in the world.

PARK CITY MOUNTAIN

If you stay at Westgate Park City, you’ll immediately notice the Red Pine Gondola going up the mountain from the village. With more than 7,300 skiable acres, over 300 ski runs, 38 lifts, seven terrain parks, 14 bowls, six natural half-pipes, one super-pipe, and one mini-pipe within easy reach from Westgate Park City, Park City Mountain is America’s largest ski and snowboard resort. The base elevation at the resort is 6,800 feet, while the summit reaches 10,026 feet, providing incredible views from any of its lifts and runs. The resort offers lessons and special programs for all ages. So grab your gear (or rent it onsite at the resort when you talk to your concierge) and ski or snowboard to your heart’s content!

DEER VALLEY RESORT

Ski enthusiasts love the exclusive experience and over one hundred beautiful runs at nearby Deer Valley Resort, just about a fifteen- to twenty-minute drive from Westgate Park City. Preferred by the “purists,” Deer Valley is one of only three resorts in the US that prohibits snowboarding. This creates a less crowded mountain and more leisure for

skiers, who enjoy the resort’s privacy and unmatched service and amenities. Those amenities include not only world-class lessons and skiing but also unforgettable dining, drinks, lodging, events, and yearround activities. Grab a hearty breakfast at Fresh Tracks Kitchen, or return après-ski for a bowl of Deer Valley’s famous turkey chili. From fine dining to casual and takeaway options, guests definitely will not go hungry here.

UTAH OLYMPIC PARK

Do you remember the excitement and American history displayed during the 2002 Olympic Winter Games? Although most of the fanfare took place in nearby Salt Lake City, much of the competition went down in Park City at Utah Olympic Park. A short drive from Westgate and Canyons Village, this historic recreation center still boasts one of the world’s fastest Olympic sliding tracks (which guests can brave by bobsled year-round if they have the stomach), along with six Nordic ski jumps and training areas that are used as a USOC Training Site. Visitors can book a tour of the facilities, purchase tickets to watch training exercises year-round (they have Olympic diving in the summer), visit the Alf Engen Ski Museum for some

sports history, and reminisce at the George Eccles 2002 Olympic Winter Games Museum. Don’t worry if you missed the 2002 games—Utah is vying to host the 2030 or 2034 Olympic Winter Games, which would make the Utah Olympic Park the first repeat venue, reinforcing the city’s sustainability and environmental stewardship missions.

From cross-country skiing to tubing, mountain biking, hiking, fishing, and so much more, Park City and its surrounding areas are an outdoor lovers’ paradise any time of year. World-renowned events such as the Sundance Film Festival, unique cultural experiences such as the Park City Museum and local mine tours, and culinary offerings such as the High West Distillery, No Name Saloon, food festivals, and top-rated dining establishments make this mountainside destination a perfect getaway for all, whether you’re into skiing or not. It’s time to consider an alpine escape!

Be sure to check out VisitParkCity.com and WestgateParkCity.com to learn more and start planning your trip, or follow them on Instagram @visitparkcity and @westgateparkcity.

Photo courtesy of Visit Park City

Flow Like a River

Washington’s Olympic National Park protects a vast wilderness with several distinct ecosystems encompassing nearly a million acres. From glacier-capped mountains to old-growth temperate rainforests and wild Pacific coastline, the park’s unique array of habitats and life-forms highlight the results of thousands of years of geographic isolation and extreme elevation, temperature, and rain. A trip here reminds us of our planet’s magnificence and the importance of preservation.

To learn more or plan a visit to Olympic National Park, visit NPS.gov or Aramark.com.

Photo courtesy of Aramark Destinations

PASSPORT to PORTUGAL

TOUR EUROPE’S WEST COAST GEM

By CATHY WHITLOCK

Perhaps travelers are most drawn to the moderate climate where the sun shines over three hundred days per year. Or it might be the sophisticated cities filled with historic palaces, medieval castles, churches, museums, and art galleries, all steeped in various periods of culture. Picturesque golden beaches, lush gardens, fourteen regions full of vineyards (be sure to sample the refreshing white Porto wine and tonic cocktail), and a terrain reminiscent of California also contribute to the country’s popularity.

Retirees and those considering retiring are flocking to Portugal (particularly Porto and Lisbon). Universal health care, reasonable cost of living, moderate climate, low crime rates, a laid-back vibe, and Spain as a nextdoor neighbor are most attractive.

A country of contrasts, Portugal has many gems to discover. Here are three we love for 2023 itineraries!

LISBON: THE CITY OF SEVEN HILLS

If quaint villages with cobblestone streets, lively nightlife, scenic squares lined with outdoor cafés, and centuries-old monuments, fortresses, and museums are of interest to you, then Lisbon fits the bill.

Culturally speaking, the city offers a wide variety of attractions. Poised on a hill overlooking the city, the historic Castel de São Jorge was built in the eleventh century when the city was under Moorish rule, and the castle served as a fortress against invaders. Shaded gardens filled with peacocks and a museum make this one of the most popular tourist destinations. The impressive neoclassical Basílica de Estrela provides breathtaking views of Lisbon (via 114 steps) and a significant collection of paintings by Italian masters. The Santa Justa Lift (also known as the Elevador de Carmo) is a wonder. Named a national monument in 2005, the fifty-foot (fifteen-meter) lift transports you to panoramic city views, perfect for all those Instagram posts you’ll want to share.

Belém Tower (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is a classic example of Gothic and Manueline architecture, while the grand plaza Praça do Comércio is a study in eighteenth-century colonnades and arches, easily recognizable by its mustard-colored stucco exterior. Portugal is also the home of beautiful, intricate tiles; design enthusiasts will enjoy the National Tile Museum, a.k.a. Museu Nacional do Azulejo, with tiles of some three hundred patterns dating back to the fifteenth century. Cubist and surrealist treasures can be found in the Berardo collection, featuring the works of artists Roy Lichtenstein, Pablo Picasso, Cindy Sherman, and Andy Warhol, to name a few.

Despite Portugal being the oldest country in Europe, it seems to be on everyone’s lips as a trending travel destination in 2023.

Left: Praça do Comércio, Lisbon, Portugal

Below: The public tramway is a great way to get around Lisbon.

Photos courtesy of Visit Lisboa

Below and right: Tivoli Palácio de Seteais luxury hotel in Sintra

Opposite left and bottom: Modern and classical styles converge at Tivoli Avenida Liberdade hotel in Lisbon.

Opposite top: Don’t forget drinks, dinner, and sushi at Tivoli Avenida Liberdade’s SEEN rooftop!

The city’s culinary delights range from wagyu burgers, spicy Piri-Piri chicken, pastries such as pastéis de natas (custard tarts), and the flavorful Portuguese sausage known as chouriço that is best enjoyed with a local craft beer. Perhaps the most popular dish is bacalhau (codfish) and sardines (the latter being so popular it is feted annually at the Feast of St. Anthony Sardine Festival). Best ordered between June and October, sardines are a true Lisbon staple, and the city is full of specialty canned sardine stores, making them a unique souvenir.

If it’s retail therapy you are after, the Avenue Liberdade (reminiscent of the Champs-Élysées in Paris) is the hub of luxury shopping, with Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Armani, Carolina Herrera, and Gucci lining the avenue alongside lesser-priced chain stores and unique gift shops. The neighboring Príncipe Real district features the highly chic concept store EmbaiXada. Situated in an eighteenth-century Moorish palace with high ceilings, a courtyard, and marble columns, independent boutiques sell everything from jewelry to organic clothing, with many one-of-a-kind items.

Located in Lisbon’s shopping mecca, the contemporary five-star hotel Tivoli Avenida Liberdade does not disappoint. Its design includes a modernist lobby with original artwork, sleek jewel-toned décor, and a crowned dome— one of the capital’s known landmarks. Dinner and drinks at the hotel’s SEEN restaurant are a must. Boasting incredible sunset views, the SEEN Sky Bar should be called “See and Be Seen,” thanks to the great people watching there. Sashimi, nigiri, and maki can be found at the SEEN Sushi Bar, where stylish seafood is a work of art.

DAY TRIPPING IN SINTRA

No visit to Portugal would be complete without a day trip (or two or three) to the charming town of Sintra. Just thirty minutes by car or forty minutes by rail from Lisbon, the idyllic resort is full of verdant landscapes, grottoes, hidden coves, palaces, and villas deemed UNESCO World Heritage sites. The former summer palace of Prince Ferdinand and his family in the 1800s, the neo-Gothic and neo-Romanesque Pena Palace sits atop a hill and is

easily recognizable with its vibrant red-and-yellow exterior. Considered one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal, the castle offers a glimpse of life in the eighteenth century. The Quinta da Regaleira, Sintra National Palace, and exploration through the shops and cafés of the old town should also be on your list.

“One of the most beautiful hotels in Portugal, the eighteenth-century neoclassical marvel is so magical that you are perfectly content to spend your time there soaking in the ambience.”

Right top: Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal

Photos courtesy of Tivoli Hotels & Resorts

The real star of Sintra is the former palace turned hotel Tivoli Palácio de Seteais. One of the most beautiful hotels in Portugal, the eighteenth-century neoclassical marvel is so magical that you are perfectly content to spend your time there soaking in the ambience. Peacocks and a friendly cat or two roam the manicured grounds against the backdrop of a maze of hedges and views of the Sintra Mountains, and one feels as excited as Kate Winslet in The Holiday upon arrival. The rooms are decorated with French and English antiques (while keeping modern amenities in mind), and the public spaces feature restored frescoes and tapestries. With a setting right out of an eighteenthcentury romance novel and only thirty guest rooms, it feels like your own private palace.

The hotel’s storied history includes guests such as Madonna, David Bowie, Paul McCartney, Neil Armstrong, Agatha Christie (who has a room named after her), and James Bond stars Sean Connery and Roger Moore.

Dine like royalty at Tivoli Palácio de Seteais.

Right and middle: Experience a luxurious coastal escape at Tivoli Carvoeiro Algarve Resort in the Algarve.

Photos courtesy of Tivoli Hotels & Resorts

Below: An upscale alfresco lunch beneath the Oliveira Milenar, a famous olive tree over 2,860 years old.

Bottom: The Algarve’s Morgado do Quintão fourth-generation family-owned vineyard

THE INIMITABLE BEACHES OF THE ALGARVE

Portugal’s southernmost region, the Algarve, offers a quiet getaway from the city. The scenic beaches under craggy, sandy-colored limestone cliffs are a favorite among beachgoers from April through October. Located just two hours from Lisbon, the town of Carvoeiro’s seaside fishing village offers bars, fresh seafood, local shops, and some of the most outstanding ocean views at the Tivoli Carvoeiro Algarve Resort. Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean on the Praia de Vale Covo cliffside, the family-friendly five-star hotel is the perfect spot for spring break with the kids, a summer wedding, or an adventurous trip full of sea kayaking and hiking.

One of the most memorable experiences is an afternoon at the Morgado do Quintão fourth-generation family-owned vineyard. Sample award-winning Algarvian wine and enjoy a communal alfresco lunch made from family recipes and local ingredients (and be sure to take a walk after lunch and meet the hundred-plus goats and sheep that graze among the orange groves and olive and almond orchards). The restored 1800s estate also features charming cottages with a private swimming pool and gardens for three- to five-night stays. Sipping a glass of White Negra Mole under the two-thousand-year-old olive tree while you ponder retirement is sheer heaven!

“ Sipping a glass of White Negra Mole under the two-thousand-year-old olive tree while you ponder retirement is sheer heaven!”

to Voyager

Traveling with Paul Gauguin Cruises

By Addie Strickland

Photography courtesy of Paul Gauguin

Cruises

xperiencing different cultures through travel is a luxury of its own. From the natural beauty of remote destinations to being surrounded by the whispers of centuries-old or ancient cultures, no single trip can truly be compared to another except in one area—the travel experience. Paul Gauguin Cruises is a luxury small-ship cruise line that creates highly tailored itineraries for your coveted vacation time. Inspired by the art of impressionist Paul Gauguin, the ship and its destinations directly reflect some of his French Polynesian masterpieces. The line’s ship, MS Paul Gauguin, cruises through French Polynesia and the South Pacific to immerse guests in the islands’ rich cultural heritage.

Find inspiration as you travel to the picturesque islands of Bora Bora, Mo’orea, Tahiti, and many other South Pacific islands. Aboard Paul Gauguin, guests will marvel at the diversity of the island landscapes and enjoy parts of the world exclusive to Paul Gauguin Cruises and its operator, luxury cruise purveyor PONANT. Created for maneuvering through the shallow waters of the South Pacific, Paul Gauguin is a boutique cruise lover’s dream. Her unique design allows her to port at smaller, more remote destinations inaccessible to larger ships. One private destination includes Paul Gauguin Cruises’ islet, Motu Mahana, nestled in the chain of Society Islands.

world around us, the greater our appreciation for it will become.

As a small cruise ship, MS Paul Gauguin has 165 newly renovated staterooms and can accommodate up to 330 guests. With 209 crew members onboard, the ratio of crew to guests is one of the highest of any luxury cruise ship. The warm and friendly local islanders, Les Gaugins and Les Gaugines, work as hosts, storytellers, and entertainers to bring authentic culture onboard. The ship’s interior design is also heavily influenced by the elegant Polynesian heritage of the surrounding islands to offer guests a fully immersive, educational voyage and delight all their senses. In 2024, the cruise line will also provide brand-new itineraries and maiden ports for its trips to Tahiti, French Polynesia, Fiji, and the South Pacific. It’s still early enough to start planning next year’s holiday!

Above: Paul Gauguin Cruises’ all-inclusive voyages come with personalized itineraries so guests can relax, dine, and explore the islands however they would like.

Opposite: MS Paul Gauguin offers 165 luxury staterooms and new destinations coming to its schedule in 2024.

It’s one thing to be surrounded by natural beauty, but understanding the culture and ways of the people there can take a travel experience to the next level. Paul Gauguin Cruises wants each adventure to be enjoyable and educational for every guest. Hence, its team works with local cultural experts to offer opportunities such as learning a traditional dance, taking a class on weaving a hei from freshly picked flowers and greenery, or getting a ukulele lesson from a local musician. This immersive approach allows guests to take home more than just pictures and supports local people and small businesses.

Paul Gauguin Cruises is also dedicated to protecting the environment in which its ship travels. The cruise line partners with Te mana o te moana, a South Pacific marine conservation organization, to genuinely educate passengers on how to fully and sustainably enjoy the beautiful biosphere around them. Guests can expect presentations led by marine biologists or oceanographers and outdoor excursions in which all are encouraged to participate. Knowledge is power, and the more we know about the

Pushing the boundaries of high-end travel by incorporating environmentally sustainable ethics and intimate experiences, Paul Gauguin Cruises also stands for luxury and freedom from your worries. Its all-inclusive itineraries allow guests to curate the vacation of their dreams beforehand and then enjoy the peace of mind that comes with knowing every detail is already taken care of when they embark. From gourmet dining at every meal to handpicked adventurous excursions, each day is filled with exactly what you want to do. Spend your vacation time actually vacationing.

Visit PGCruises.com to start planning your island escape!

Photo by Tim McKenna/ PONANT

Pushing the boundaries of high-end travel by incorporating environmentally sustainable ethics and intimate experiences, Paul Gauguin Cruises also stands for luxury and freedom from your worries.

For more information or to book your stay at Airelles Val d’Isère, visit Airelles.com.

La maison

WHERE THE HEART IS

Perched proudly in the French Alps, Airelles Val d’Isère resort will bring back LOULOU for the winter season. Following its success last year, the stylish Parisian restaurant will return with all its signature favorites—not to mention the dessert buffet! Indulge in a culinary journey after a day on the slopes. Chef Benoit Dargère has prepared a tasteful menu of dishes, including the truffle pizza and the pistachio linguine. The enchanting cuisine matches the gorgeous interior design, creating une expérience incroyable

Photo courtesy of Airelles

SpanishREVIVAL

By JORDAN STAGGS | Photography by HOLLY LEPERE

Breathing NewintoLife a California Farm I

think there is a desire to unplug and be immersed in this environment, which is incredibly healing,” says architect Wade Weissmann, whose recent California Farm Retreat project is a beauty to behold. The collection of Spanish Revival-inspired residential and farm buildings and their surrounding four-hundred-acre property in the rolling hills of Southern California celebrate the organic yet dynamic feeling evoked by time spent admiring and connecting with nature.

Weissmann, the founder and principal of Wade Weissmann Architecture, boasts an impressive career of over twentyfive years designing “classically inspired estates” for clients around the world. This farm retreat is no exception to his classic style. It integrates a modern version of centuries-old Spanish Colonial elements, including the tiled roof, pigmented stucco exteriors, deep-set and punched windows, and stained wood accents. Weissmann worked closely with interior designers Tina Simonds of Simonds Design and Jordana Joseph of Jorje Design to ensure the layout, finishes, and furnishings would, as Weissmann says, “create shelter for the times that you couldn’t be outside but essentially allow for the outdoor spaces to be celebrated in and gathered in; it’s really kind of an inside-outside home.”

Both Weissmann and Simonds grew up inspired by farmland and spending time in nature. Weissmann grew up visiting his parents’ hobby farm in Door County, Wisconsin, on weekends and during the summer. “It was a really great playground for a kid to explore and to always be building things,” he reminisces. “If I was in the hayloft and it was a rainy day, I would build forts out of hay bales. If it was in the middle of the summer and beautiful outside, I gathered sticks and wood to build forts in the forest. On really cold winter days, I was downstairs using chunks of furniture and sofa cushions to build little forts and things inside. I was keenly aware of space and environments even as a young kid.”

The original adobe buildings on this property in Southern California were from the 1920s and ’30s and have been lovingly reimagined by Wade Weissmann Architecture and Simonds Design.

Simonds grew up in a large family on a farm in rural Indiana. She recalls, “This meant my time was spent helping out with farm work, but I would find myself focused on the natural patterns that surrounded me: stacking straw bales into layouts like tiles, watching bees building hexagonal hives, imagining creating decorative elements out of the farm junkyard. Without realizing it, I spent my childhood looking for designs in everything. Now I look to this in my current work by reclaiming material from old farms and turning junk into sophisticated details for my projects.”

Having worked together before, the teams at WWA and Simonds Design had a great rapport for collaborating throughout the entire process of creating this multifaceted farm retreat. Challenges included making sure it was not only a beautiful home but also a functional, practical working farm.

“The focus of the farm itself is to promote healthful living, and we really wanted that reflected in the design and function of the home,” Simonds shares. “Almost all the finishes are natural, old, and very used, which exudes warmth in its knowledge. We provided space for a test kitchen, a main kitchen, and a large outdoor dining area to encourage all guests to take part in eating straight from the gardens and gathering to share meals and the day’s events. We want to allow the homeowners and any guests to feel connected through the shared social spaces, inside and out.”

Above and opposite bottom: Tina Simonds, Jordana Joseph, and their interior design teams sourced about 95 percent of the retreat’s lighting, hardware, sinks, and accessories from vintage and antique markets.

Right: Rich details, including tile ceilings and dark wood cabinetry, celebrate the farm’s Spanish architectural heritage.

“This farm retreat is no exception to his classic style. It integrates a modern version of centuries-old Spanish Colonial elements, including the tiled roof, pigmented stucco exteriors, deep-set and punched windows, and stained wood accents.”

Weissmann adds, “Sharing in the resolution of the design gave Tina and her team the ability to look for found and reclaimed objects that could be utilized in the varying spaces. When they were ‘hunting’ and would find things, we could accommodate them right there and then in the plans. They would go to various salvage yards and antique centers and find interesting components, such as an old trough sink or a chunk of an old industrial worktable, and those items were shown to us so we could accurately place them and set up the structure in order to accommodate them. It was great to be fed these artifacts found on their travels and integrate them into the design.”

Working with antiques and reclaimed objects, which Simonds says make up about 95 percent of the retreat’s light fixtures, hardware, sinks, and furnishings, can be a challenge when it comes to functionality. The team had to be sure the objects would look great and be usable for the farm’s owners and guests. “The only way this effort is successful is by working with amazingly patient trade partners,” Simonds says. “I love the feeling when all of the parts of a design racing around in my brain become real. This project gave me pause and also made me jump, spin, skip, cartwheel, clap, screech, and laugh my head off! It was incredible.”

She continues, “I was fortunate to collaborate with the extraordinary Jordana Joseph of Jorje Interiors—she became the yin to my yang. I also want to warmly thank Johnny, the fine-trim carpenter, for spending days and days with me, installing and hanging the enormous assortments of accessories. Without these, I would’ve lost many layers of personality in these spaces.”

Left and below: Great weather and the farming tradition of gathering at the end of each workday for a big meal encouraged Weissmann and Simonds to ensure the property’s outdoor living spaces became places to relax, celebrate, eat, and engage in conversation.

Arcadia Studio was responsible for the landscape architecture, while All Coast Construction was the builder for the project.

“The romance that we celebrated in that haciendastyle architecture was something that my colleagues and I found very intriguing,” Weissmann adds. “I believe the original adobe residence on the property was built in the 1920s or 1930s. It had a cooking hearth, long, low-slung overhangs, and shallow-pitched roofs. A lot of stone, stucco, tile, and reclaimed tile was found on the property. The plasticity of this adobe-like material allowed us to create exterior spaces around these buildings that could house programs to service those outdoor spaces, so there was an opportunity to put functions in various components of the buildings that could serve as the outdoor living space.”

He continues, “Celebrating the property’s historic architecture and the charming indoor-outdoor lifestyle it embraced, especially because that’s a big part of the architectural flavor of the local community, seemed very appropriate. We were humbled to maintain the precedent set by the original vernacular and life of this farm.”

Readers can find more of Weissmann’s work in his first monograph, Heirloom Houses: The Architecture of Wade Weissmann. The coffee-table book features fifteen beautifully crafted WWA legacy homes that, like the California Farm Retreat, are designed to stand the test of time and be passed to future generations.

“The romance that we celebrated in that haciendastyle architecture was something that my colleagues and I found very intriguing.”

Tucked among the lake and the mountains of French Switzerland, La Réserve Genève – Hotel, Spa, and Villa offers guests an opportunity to create unforgettable memories in one of the most beautiful settings on earth. The idyllic property boasts three restaurants, the luxurious Spa Nescens, outdoor and indoor swimming pools, a Kid’s Club, sports facilities, and a range of à la carte activities.

Visit LaReserve-Geneve. com to learn more or book your stay.

Photo courtesy of La Réserve Genève.

THE PRIDE OF A MASTER CRAFTSMAN

When old-world craft meets new-world technology, an unprecedented level of quality is birthed. At E. F. San Juan, the quality and long-term function of our woodwork are the keys to creating elements that will transform a house into your dream home. EFSANJUAN.COM

SUSTAINS STEWARDSHIP

By ADDIE STRICKLAND | Photography courtesy of SOUTHALL FARM & INN

oing back to our roots and rediscovering the simple cyclical balance of nature allows humans to tap into the natural world around us. The connection between the land and becoming our best selves depends greatly on stewardship. This perfect union is no better seen or experienced than at Southall. This expansive farmland estate takes guests on a mindful journey blending innovation and tradition when they stay in its charming sixty-two-room inn or one of sixteen separate cottages. Set in the countryside near Franklin, Tennessee, this retreat surrounds visitors and bathes them in nature’s purity. From luxury spa treatments to the native bees that keep the orchards blossoming, the details of their experience will beckon toward a more intentional way of living that the farm’s loving stewards work hard to sustain.

On 325 acres of lustrous agricultural land, every aspect of daily life here is dedicated to using the freshest ingredients grown from the farm. The Spa at Southall features treatments reflective of nature’s self-healing properties. The entire experience is personalized to each individual to foster a holistic environment focusing on healing from within.

Just as nature requires maintenance and care, so do our bodies. The balance of life that we all strive for begins with a healthy body and soul. The nourishing ingredients harvested from the land reinforce the connection between nature and each guest.

The impact of eating fresh produce and ethically sourced meats is often overlooked because they often aren’t readily available or convenient to prepare, but at Southall, wherever you are on the property, expect to be served a drink or dish made from ingredients grown or raised on the farm. Farm-to-table is no exaggeration here: “Almost every aspect of the property has germinated from a seed—the seed of a bountiful harvest, the seed of an idea for an agriculturally rooted resort, the seed of a grand vision,” Southall’s founders share. Paul and Laura Mishkin wholeheartedly believe the earth will take care of us if we take care of it. Their culinary experiences’ nutrient-rich dishes made with spices grown in the garden create a flavor unique to Southall.

Cocktails, cuisine, and horticulture? The dynamic relationship between garden cultivation and food preparation was outlined years before Southall opened. “It’s not just about knowing how many radishes, turnips, tomatoes, and fennel plants to grow within a certain amount of space—it’s understanding all of the ways those ingredients will then be used when they’re at the peak of harvest,” says the Southall team.

“Whether it lands in a salad of fresh greens, set beside a locally sourced protein, or preserved and later shaken into a cocktail, each ingredient will find its place on the table in its more perfect form.” At the beginning

of each season, the staff painstakingly preps the garden for a new set of herbs and vegetables for the coming harvest.

An orchard of over thirteen-hundred trees overlooks Lake Mishkin and supplies Southall with forty varieties of sweet and tart apples. New innovations and old craftsmanship have allowed the Southall team to produce crops year-round. “The trees are espaliered on trellises, an ancient technique designed to give fruitheavy branches the support, airflow, and sunlight they need to thrive. Rainwater collected from the farm is pumped back up to irrigate the orchard.” The orchard yields Southall a few thousand pounds of apples each harvest for everything from homemade apple pie to barley wine—not to mention it’s a delightful backdrop for an afternoon picnic.

New technological advances can’t replace essential components of nature, especially the bee. Four million bees call Southall home and work to maintain the integrity of the produce on the farm. “Busy at work from the first blooms in late winter until the last buckwheat cover crop blossoms in summer, these pollinators are vital to the health of the farm, increasing harvest yields on a range of crops.” Southall has strategically placed six apiaries around the property to maximize the pollination of the crops and orchard. Not only do the bees play a vital role in pollination, but they also produce award-winning honey. With extensive apiary knowledge and tested results, Southall has again proven the importance of mastering the balance between nature and humankind. Doing your part to care for the world around you will come back to you with goodness.

Careful stewardship of oneself directly ties into good stewardship of nature. This concept is at the heart of everything Southall stands for and hopes to teach its guests. Blending nature and innovation can create a truly utopian way of life. A day at Southall could include paddleboarding on the lake, swinging through the trees along the property’s ropes course, a therapeutic massage, indulging in a savory meal, snuggling by a warm fire, or even all of the above. Discover what your heart desires and reconnect with nature at this idyllic retreat in the Tennessee countryside.

Visit SouthallTN.com or follow the farm on Instagram @southalltn to learn more and start planning your escape.

The trees are espaliered on trellises, an ancient technique designed to give fruit-heavy branches the support, airflow, and sunlight they need to thrive.

BE MY Fairy Godmother 1 86 | FEBRUARY 2023

VALENTINE

Waterfront Parks A WEALTH

FROM THE CHOCTAWHATCHEE BAY TO RARE COASTAL DUNE LAKES

This area is home to 10 regional beach accesses, 40-plus neighborhood beach accesses and 11 lake and bay accesses. And a wide variety of additional waterfront parks spread the love for H2O throughout the county.

Three local state parks offer direct access to the water. Recognized as one of the nation's outstanding parks, Topsail Hill Preserve State Park boasts three miles of white-sand beaches and dunes that tower over 25 feet high. There are plenty of cabins, campsites and RV spaces featuring full hook-ups, a swimming pool and laundry facilities. An in-park tram service makes it easy to get over to the beach.

Grayton Beach State Park is well known for its beach that consistently ranks among the most beautiful and pristine in the United States. However, with nearly 2,000 acres, there’s plenty of room for roaming. The park features four miles of trails that wind through a coastal forest where scrub oaks and magnolias are bent and twisted by the winds off the Gulf. Scenic Western Lake is home to a salt marsh ecosystem ready to be explored by canoe, stand-up paddleboard or kayak. Cozy cabins and full-facility campgrounds offer options for staying overnight and truly immersing in the natural beauty and easy-going vibes that make this such a popular spot.

Opposite: Recognized as one of the nation’s outstanding parks, Topsail Hill Preserve State Park boasts three miles of beaches with dunes that tower over 25 feet high.

Left: Across the bay in Freeport, Grady Brown Park offers a handicapaccessible kayak launch plus two boat ramps with parking for both vehicles and trailers.

AND, OF COURSE, THE TURQUOISE GULF OF MEXICO, WALTON COUNTY MAKES IT EASY TO FIND PLENTY OF PLACES FOR FUN BY THE WATER.

GRAYTON BEACH STATE PARK IS WELL KNOWN FOR ITS BEACH THAT CONSISTENTLY RANKS AMONG THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND PRISTINE IN THE UNITED STATES.

Recently re-opened, Deer Lake State Park now has several new upgrades to its core facilities and amenities. Already in place was a boardwalk that spans the coastal dunes over to the beach. This walkway provides a perfect vantage point for soaking in the scenery of the peaceful dunes and the lake that shares its name with the park. You’ll find many species of resident or migratory birds and butterflies, along with a variety of trees, wildflowers and rare plants such as Curtiss' sandgrass – one of the largest populations found in Florida.

Beyond the state parks, there are many other unique spots for waterfront exploration. Located on the south shore of the Bay, Pilcher Park is a nice little oasis tucked under the US Highway 331 bridge. With three pavilions featuring picnic tables, it’s an ideal spot for family or group gatherings. There are multiple ramps for launching a boat and a long pier for anyone wanting to do some fishing from dry land.

Kellogg Bayside Park in Santa Rosa Beach is another place to take a break from the beach and chill by the Bay. Located at the north end of Nellie Drive off Nursery Road, the peaceful respite provides panoramic views and easy access to the water for both motorized and paddle-powered crafts. There’s also a nearby wildlife nature preserve and educational center. Check the schedule for nature-based activities, from fishing classes to outdoor Tai-Chi and yoga sessions.

Across the Bay in Freeport, Grady Brown Park is located at the Clyde B. Wells Bridge on US Highway 331. Getting onto the water is easy, thanks to a handicap-accessible kayak launch, plus two boat ramps

With nearly 2,000 acres, there’s plenty of room for roaming at Grayton Beach State Park – including four miles of trails and scenic Western Lake.

Opposite Right: One of the newest additions, Choctawhatchee River Paddle Trail at Cowford Landing includes pavilions, picnic tables and a canoe/ kayak launch.

with parking for both vehicles and trailers. There’s even a convenient boat-washing station. Those who prefer to stay on the shore can relax on the sandy beach or check out the three piers.

Nearby Lake Stanley Park in DeFuniak Springs connects to over 100 acres of open water. Anglers can fish from a designated pier or launch from the on-site boat ramp. Kids will love the play area, which includes swing sets and a slide, several open areas for running around and a small but well-kept swimming area. And hungry swimmers of all ages can picnic at one of several covered and uncovered tables.

Also in DeFuniak Springs, Chipley Park surrounds picturesque Lake DeFuniak, which is purported to be one of only two spring-fed lakes in the world. The 40-acre lake’s almost perfectly round shape is traced by Circle Drive, which serves as the address to many classic Victorian homes and buildings that date back to the town’s past Chautauqua Assembly. Only boats of one horsepower or less are allowed on the water, keeping it quite tranquil. This suits all the birdwatchers who are drawn to the park for the diversity of wintering waterfowl that pass through.

And one of the newest additions to check out is the Choctawhatchee River Paddle Trail at Cowford Landing, which officially opened August 10th. It includes two screened-in pavilions, picnic tables and benches, a handicap-accessible canoe/kayak launch and a boardwalk. The construction of the site was funded by the Land and Water Conservation Fund through the US Department of Interior, the National Park Service, the Florida Department of Environmental Protection and the Walton County Preservation Fund.

Any of these parks – and several others – offer a great way to spend time with family or friends while truly appreciating all the beautiful waterways that serve as a signature for Walton County. Find some time to explore one that’s new to you or re-visit an old favorite.

Firefly Restaurant & Lounge at the Shoppes of Edgewater Panama City Beach, Florida

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Private Rooms and Full-Service Catering Available.

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World-Renowned Stay

The Inn at Little Washington is famously known worldwide as the first and only Three Michelin-Star restaurant in the Washington, D.C., metropolitan area. Head chef Patrick O’Connell delivers inspired American cuisine in a private country house atmosphere. Romance is encouraged through the decor and colorful dishes brimming with eclectic and imaginative flavor. Most of the menu’s produce and herbs are sourced from a small farm on the property, while the rest is provided through the inn’s network of local farmers and suppliers. The Inn at Little Washington redefines the restaurant experience through a boundaryless approach that can only be described as art.

Photo courtesy of The Inn at Little Washington

To learn more about the Yayoi Kusama x LV collaboration, visit us.LouisVuitton.com.

Le monde

GOES ROUND AND ROUND

Louis Vuitton unveiled a larger-than-life display at the twentieth anniversary of Art Basel in Miami Beach this past December. The exhibit showcased celebrated artists, including an exclusive collection by Yayoi Kusama. In addition, new Louis Vuitton bags and apparel were showcased as a teaser for the release of the Yayoi Kusama x LV collaboration. The colors, shapes, and textures demonstrate that Louis Vuitton is dedicated to bringing the best of modern and contemporary art to new audiences alongside luxury fashion goods.

Photo courtesy of BFA

BY SUZANNE POLLAK

WHETHER WE ARE YOUNG OR OLD, TRIPS WITH FRIENDS CAN ENRICH OUR LIVES IN PROFOUND WAYS FAR BEYOND OUR DAY-TO-DAY EXPERIENCES.

At the age of seven, I left Somalia with my best friend Pini and her mother on a three-month odyssey that introduced me to secret love, sea voyages conducted by foreign-speaking men, indulgent French pastries, urban luxury, and Christmas in the snow.

the hired help in Somalia, who would play with us all day, the elderly Geneva housekeeper wanted nothing to do with little children.

Pini and I quickly discovered other ways to occupy our time. I remember trying on perfume from the crystal bottles on Aunt Margaret’s mirrored dressing table. They were so precious, fragile, and feminine, unlike anything I had ever seen or smelled. It was fun to open the bottles and press them to our noses. We put drops on our fingers. Soon we were pouring the perfume directly onto our skin until the bottles were empty. Aunt Margaret was not happy when she discovered what we had done. To this day, I can recall shivering under her stern rebuke and my sense of guilt.

After several weeks, the lovers returned and drove us to Holland, where we stayed with Pini’s relatives. I discovered snow, which I thought of as Europe’s version of the sand I played in at home. We sledded down hills, built snowmen, and learned how to throw snowballs. Pini’s cousins taught us how to hitch a sled to the back of unsuspecting cars and ride down the street—so thrilling! They built villages out of Lego bricks, with tiny white lights in the Lego houses, which is something I never saw in the US, even years later. That Dutch Christmas, including the presents I received from St. Nicolas, was truly magical.

Pini and her mother were Dutch and spoke their native language for most of the trip. Nevertheless, we were mischievous comrades throughout our adventure. We left Mogadishu on a banana boat that headed into the Indian Ocean and eventually made its way through the Red Sea and the Suez Canal to southern France. We boarded the boat by climbing into a canvas basket lifted by a crane onto the deck. Camels boarded that way too—but one leaped out of the basket to his death in the ocean.

Almost sixty years later, I left my home in Charleston, South Carolina, for a lifechanging trip to Lebanon, the place of my birth, with my best friend Autumn. Her intelligence, courage, and quest for adventure were matched by her loving kindness to me. Autumn typically took solo trips to exotic places, so I was surprised and

Pini’s beautiful mother organized most of our time. She commanded us to sit at the end of her deck chair, from which—dressed in a tiny bikini—she knitted complicated sweaters and had us recite multiplication tables. I didn’t mind because it was my chance to hear English. We ate all our meals family-style at a long table somewhere at the bottom of the boat: sailors, the captain, workers, Pini’s glamorous mother, and we two seven-year-old girls. The sailors conversed in Italian or Arabic. I cannot remember what we ate, but I do know that we never ate a banana.

Pini’s mother needed me on the trip to keep her daughter company while she rendezvoused with her lover. We discovered this upon meeting him the moment we disembarked in Marseille. He was friendly and sweet, almost like another husband, but far more intimate. We marveled at this erotic friendship and were drawn into its secrecy. We stopped at a French pastry shop, a magical jewel box where I tasted a palmier (sometimes called “French hearts”) for the first time. It was too rich for my taste then, but the crunchy, flaky puff pastry palmier always reminds me of illicit love.

Pini and I were soon deposited at the elegant Geneva apartment of my Aunt Margaret and Uncle Vincent. That luxurious Swiss city provided the biggest culture shock of my young life. I was used to African communities on the equator. Unlike

honored when she asked me to go with her to Lebanon. I said yes to the trip and all the adventures Autumn had planned. That included paragliding, which I agreed to do before knowing what it was. When the day came to jump off a mountain and sail over the Cedars of God, the oldest trees in the world, I experienced fifteen minutes of indescribable freedom, letting go, trusting, and soaring with no fear.

But there was plenty of fear to come. After the paraglide, we had to walk thousands of meters down the mountainside on a dirt-and-stone path so narrow that the slightest misstep would mean tumbling into the abyss. My terror made me lag, and I fell behind. Autumn tried to relax me by asking about a party I was planning back home. As I passed by caves where Christian monks and hermits lived for centuries, I felt wisdom washing over me, whispering to choose trust, not fear. I made it, one step at a time.

At breakfast that morning, we saw a wooden sign by our table that read: “Much of your pain is self-chosen.” Then, flipping through The Prophet by Kahlil Gibran, the revered Lebanese writer, we found the poem “Pain” with the same quote. I am convinced that Gibran and the Christian hermits (along with my dear friend Autumn) helped me make it down the mountain. We celebrated at a family-owned restaurant that served us nineteen different dishes as we watched a wedding party dance, sing, and feast.

I ate at Lebanese restaurants every Sunday during my eighteen years of growing up in Africa, and I’m still convinced that Lebanese food is the best anywhere in the world. Known as the “land of milk and honey” for its natural abundance, Lebanon’s fish is always freshly caught, its coffee is so strong your brain stands to attention, and its falafel is unlike anything in America.

One late afternoon in Baalbek, we wandered into the only open restaurant—empty except for a table of men playing backgammon. They looked up with shock when two women entered. Autumn asked for food, but we were offered only water. It seemed the place wasn’t open after all (it may not have even been a restaurant). Still, in a gesture of hospitality not often seen in the West, one man from the table came over and arranged to have roast chicken, hummus, salad, yogurt, olive oil, French Fries, and Pepsi brought to us from a place nearby. He then motioned for me to move over so he could play backgammon with Autumn, playing like a military commander. We learned enough from him to beat most people in the US. He turned out to be a member of the politically militant group Hezbollah.

Following that experience, Autumn and I bought backgammon sets at a souk in the city, a marketplace in tunnels and alleys shaded by high walls and packed with people. Everything was for sale, from freshly butchered cow heads to gold bracelets, wedding dresses, and tiny candies made on the spot.

On our last day in Lebanon, we swam in the Mediterranean, which required us to walk over large rocks to get into the salty turquoise water. I felt my constraints and fears melting away and my spirit being cleansed. I had stepped out of my comfort zone. I had gone past my limits. I felt ready for new ways of living. Once again, I was blessed by a journey with a friend.

Suzanne Pollak, a mentor and lecturer in the fields of home, hearth, and hospitality, is the founder and dean of the Charleston Academy of Domestic Pursuits. She is the coauthor of Entertaining for Dummies, The Pat Conroy Cookbook, and The Charleston Academy of Domestic Pursuits: A Handbook of Etiquette with Recipes. Born into a diplomatic family, Pollak was raised in Africa, where her parents hosted multiple parties every week. Her South Carolina homes have been featured in the Wall Street Journal Mansion section and Town & Country magazine. Visit CharlestonAcademy.com or contact her at Suzanne@CharlestonAcademy.com to learn more.

The Mediterranean Sea off the coast of Lebanon

MARCH

Presenting Sponsor: THE DUGAS FAMILY FOUNDATION

Food + Wine Sponsor : CAFÉ THIRTY-A

For a complete listing of all of our wonderful sponsors please visit our website.

FOR MORE DETAILS AND TO PURCHASE TICKETS, VISIT CVHNKIDS.ORG or CAFETHIRTYA.COM

Shuttle service to the event will be provided. Must be 21 to attend this event.

Children’s Volunteer Health Network

Sets the Stage for Act II

Photo by Hunter Burgtorf

BY JORDAN STAGGS

Big Things to Come in 2023

It’s a big year for Children’s Volunteer Health Network (CVHN), the nonprofit based in Florida’s Walton and Okaloosa counties with a goal of helping children and families in need through no-cost dental and mental health programs. The organization, entering its eighteenth year of service later in 2023, is gearing up for “Act II” of its Soirée on the Bay fundraising event after the inaugural rendition raised over $300,000 last year. CVHN will also bring more focus to mental health this year in addition to its established mobile dental clinics that currently serve over a thousand area children through preventative and restorative care.

Last year, our focus was on restorative dental care,” says Megan Trent, executive director of CVHN. The proceeds from Soirée on the Bay 2022 indeed drove home that focus as CVHN was able to fully equip and fund first-year operations for a second mobile dental clinic, named Niecy after a dedicated former staff member, Denise Lisciotti, who passed away in 2021. The addition of the second clinic expanded CVHN’s reach and offerings exponentially. This year, expansion to other programs will be a vital component of the nonprofit’s mission.

“In 2023, we’re looking more at the big picture,” Trent continues. “How can we integrate mental health services into our programming in a way that has the biggest impact on our community?” Last fall, CVHN partnered with the Youth Mental Health Project (YMHP), a national nonprofit whose mission is “to educate, empower, and support families and communities to better understand and care for the mental health of our youth.”

In partnering with YMHP, the CVHN volunteers and staff brought the national organization’s Parent Support Network to the Florida Panhandle for the first time with two networking events and discussions of establishing regional chapters. Through YMHP, new resources will provide local parents and caregivers concerned about their children’s mental health an opportunity to find and support each other in a confidential and safe space. “With our mental wellness focus really kicking off this year, we’re thrilled to partner with YMHP as they help train volunteers who can support the parents and families who join these free monthly support meetings,” Trent shares. “The goal of the meetings is for connecting with each other, discussing issues and concerns in a space free of judgment, and sharing their journeys, highs, and lows, so everyone knows they are not alone.”

She continues, “Throughout the country, we have the ‘DEFCON 1,’ worst-case scenario support lines for teens and adults struggling with mental health, but how often are children talked to about the importance of good mental health? Rarely. Schools and parents have not been equipped for it in the past, though that is slowly getting a little better. Through CVHN, we want to be a preventative and restorative resource for mental health support just as we offer dental support.

Building the Parent Support Network will be a priority for CVHN this year, and there is more exciting news to come regarding its mental health programs, Trent says—some of which can’t be shared just yet but are sure to excite volunteers and participants alike. “I don’t think there’s a program like this in our county or most places I’ve ever been,” she expounds. “Our biggest mission is figuring out how to best support kids and families year-round, and these Parent Support Network meetings will also be a tremendous resource for planning ways to do that.” to do that.”

As for Soirée on the Bay Act II, which is coming up on March 10 and 11, there will surely be another weekend of excitement this year. An elegant affair will kick off Friday, March 10, with a red carpet evening of fine food, wine, and spirits curated by David Kessler of Café Thirty-A, plus live music and an auction boasting some incredible items and experiences. On Saturday, the second annual Soirée on the Bay Bubbles, Bites & Bocce brunch will return, with champagne and a bocce ball tournament followed by a roaring good time with a performance by the illustrious The Tip Tops Band out of Mobile, Alabama. The events will once again take place at the beautiful Dugas Estate on the Choctawhatchee Bay in Santa Rosa Beach, Florida.

In addition to presenting sponsors the Dugas Family Foundation and Café Thirty-A, Soirée on the Bay Act II will be brought to you by Mighty Swell Beverages, Merrill Lynch/Brown, Burns & Associates, Lisa Peters/The Jewel at Grand Boulevard, A Boheme Design, Linda Miller Real Estate, Alan Suskey/ Shumaker Advisors, Hancock Whitney, Dr. Bradley Harrelson/Bluewater Bay Oral Surgery, Trustmark Bank, Grand Boulevard, Silver Sands Premium Outlets, Marriott Hotels – Courtyard + Residence Inn, McNeese Title, VIE magazine, and more.

Tickets are available now for a beautiful weekend supporting a very worthy cause!

Visit CVHNkids.org to learn more or to purchase tickets for Soirée on the Bay Act II. To find out more about the Youth Mental Health Project, YMHproject.org.

Above: CVHN executive director Megan Trent and founding board member Jane Bahr

Left: In addition to dental programs, CVHN will focus on kids’ mental health improvement in 2023.

Photos courtesy of CVHN

Soirée on the Bay 2022

Photo by Hunter Burgtorf

Our biggest mission is figuring out how to best support kids and families year-round, and these Parent Support Network meetings will also be a tremendous resource for planning ways to do that.

Sponsors Steve and Lynn Dugas

Photo by Hunter Burgtorf

Photo courtesy of The Shelbourne

REAL FUN EVENTS IN 2023

PANAMA CITY BEACH

Is Where It’s At

CITY BEACH

Known as “The World’s Most Beautiful Beaches” for a reason, the white-sand destination of Panama City Beach offers over twenty miles of coastline on the clear, warm Gulf of Mexico and the wildlife-rich St. Andrew Bay. It’s also home to world-class annual events, from music festivals to holiday extravaganzas, sporting events, and more. This family-friendly beach town welcomes visitors from around the world each year, and 2023’s lineup of festivals, concerts, and more promises good times for all ages. Check out some of the highlights:

MARDI GRAS & MUSIC FESTIVAL February 3–4

Combine the excitement of an authentic Mardi Gras celebration with the spectacular views of emerald green water and sugar-white sand, and you’re in for a real treat at the Panama City Beach Mardi Gras and Music Festival. The festival features entertainment for the whole family in conjunction with the Krewe of Dominique Youx’s great Mardi Gras at the Beach parade.

Photography courtesy of VISIT PANAMA

Wander from booth to booth while tasting the best craft beers, wine, and spirits from around the world and sampling delectable creations from leading chefs in the Northwest Florida area.

FOOD TRUCK & CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL

February 18–19

Food Truck Festivals of America is bringing the Annual Panama City Beach Food Truck & Craft Beer Festival back to Aaron Bessant Park! On February 18 and 19 from noon to 5:00 p.m. (VIP hour is 11:00 a.m. to noon), Florida’s most popular food trucks will dish out fan favorites while the season’s top craft beers will be available for sale. This festival will be a weekend of craft beer, great food, lawn games, music, and fun for the whole family. Thirty food trucks will be serving everything from fall-off-the-bone BBQ to wood-fired pizza, juicy prime rib, spicy Korean food, gooey mac and cheese, and so much more!

EMERALD COAST CRUIZIN’

March 8–11;

Fall Date TBA

Twice a year, Panama City Beach becomes a giant outdoor showroom for thousands of hot rods, classic cars, and speedsters for this three-day event at Aaron Bessant Park. Visitors will want to experience the numerous live bands, meet and greets, and presentations. Activities include cruise-ins, concerts, parties, vendors, food, parades, and celebrity appearances. One lucky collector can even drive home a vintage vehicle if they prevail in the frantic bidding at a live auction. Car enthusiasts of all ages are welcome.

UNWINED PRESENTED BY PUBLIX March 31–April 1

This two-day Southern garden party in Aaron Bessant Park features superb craft beer, spirits, and wine from around the world, plus culinary creations by Northwest Florida’s leading chefs. At its heart, UNwineD is a stylish garden party showcasing the region’s best. Following a VIP kickoff party on March 31, UNwineD officially begins with the Grand Afternoon Tasting on April 1. Wander from booth to booth while tasting the best craft beers, wine, and spirits from around the world and sampling delectable creations from leading chefs in the Northwest Florida area. Browse through Art & Vendor Row, filled with local shops and boutiques, and be sure to also stop by the Southern Living tent for home decor, cookbooks, and more! After the Grand Afternoon Tasting, enjoy live music by headliner Magic Giant and the opening act, The Collection. Tickets are limited to this event. You must be 21 or older to attend the Grand Tasting (accompanying children 12 and under permitted).

SEABREEZE JAZZ FESTIVAL

April 19–23

Named a Top 10 Jazz Festival in the USA by Jazziz Magazine and recently nominated as Best Jazz Festival at the Oasis Smooth Jazz Awards, the Seabreeze Jazz Festival in Panama City Beach combines the top national smooth jazz artists with a whole weekend of fun, sun, great beaches, and good times—all on the west end of Panama City Beach. The event now attracts over twenty thousand fans from the USA, Canada, and Europe for the ultimate performance-packed weekend of jazz.

THUNDER BEACH MOTORCYCLE RALLY

May 3–7; October 23–29

Known as the “Most Biker-Friendly Free Rally in the United States,” Thunder Beach is a biannual event in spring and fall in Panama City Beach. Bikers, vendors, and exhibitors from around the country descend on the destination to share stories, listen to great bands, and experience exciting live entertainment. The free, four-day rally features over two hundred vendors and exhibitors, a bike parade, beauty pageants, poker runs, live music, motorcycle stunt shows, tattoo contests, bike shows with category judging, and more. Happenings will occur at multiple venues throughout the area, welcoming over sixty thousand biking enthusiasts. For the full event schedule, visit the Thunder Beach website.

GULF COAST JAM June 1–4

Join us for the annual Gulf Coast Jam at Frank Brown Park in Panama City Beach, Florida! From June 2-5, you can enjoy the most exciting acts in country and southern rock music today. Panama City Beach is situated on the Emerald Coast and offers the ideal festival location. In the morning, live it up at the beach, enjoying sublimely soft sand, crystal-clear waters, and the best outdoor recreation. Then, spend the afternoon jamming your heart out to the best country music. Dance away the cool nights with sounds as fresh as a sweet Gulf breeze. This year’s headliners promise a good time as Morgan Wallen, Miranda Lambert, Hardy, and Kane Brown take the stage, along with over two dozen more unforgettable artists and bands.

SUMMER CONCERT SERIES

June–August on Tuesdays

Hot summer nights are made for music, and the Summer Concert Series has become a beloved summertime tradition in PCB. Enjoy a free concert in the park every Tuesday at Aaron Bessant Park Amphitheater—bring your lawn chairs and blankets and enjoy the sounds of summer music; coolers, food, and pets are welcome.

REAL. FUN. FOURTH.

July

2–4

What better way to celebrate Independence Day than enjoying fireworks on the beach? Panama City Beach celebrates the Fourth of July with the largest display on the Gulf Coast as fireworks erupt along the beach. Offering three nights of fireworks, Panama City Beach presents visitors with spectacular views to experience its magical displays from various locations, from resorts to waterfront restaurants. In addition, PCB has many special events to keep you entertained throughout the holiday weekend. Choreographed music simulcast is available when you tune into any of the four Magic Broadcasting stations for the Freedom Rocks! and Star Spangled Spectacular firework shows.

PIRATES OF THE HIGH SEAS & RENAISSANCE FEST

October 6–8

The annual event celebrates the legacy of the pirates who once roamed the Gulf of Mexico and pillaged the Emerald Coast, telling the tale of Dominique Youx and his krewe of loyal buccaneers through staged pirate battles and storytelling. Pirate fans can enjoy online and in-person activities, including a digital pirate costume contest, an in-person and online treasure hunt, parades, live music, fireworks, Renaissance vendors and activities, and more in Panama City Beach.

Enjoy a free concert in the park every Tuesday at Aaron Bessant Park Amphitheater.

OKTOBERFEST

October 13–15

It’s time for great beer and brats in Panama City Beach! At Aaron Bessant Park in Pier Park, PCB Oktoberfest is on for three days of German beer, food, music, and activities for kids and families. The event will feature a massive tent decorated like the authentic Oktoberfest tent in Munich, Germany, two outdoor beer gardens, and a VIP section. Get ready for great German food! Pair your beer with famous or smoked brats, mettwurst, or hot dogs (with or without sauerkraut). Plus, nothing is better with your new and old favorite beer than giant pretzels with beer-infused cheese. Come out for good eats and great times with friends and family.

IRONMAN FLORIDA

November 4

Race day in Panama City Beach is like no other you’ve experienced. Surrounded by the emerald green waters of the Gulf of Mexico, the Visit Panama City Beach IRONMAN Florida—part of the VinFast IRONMAN North America Series—is the perfect fusion of speed, history, and leisure. Make it your vacation destination as you and your family dip your toes in the sand at some of the world’s most beautiful beaches. Make it your personal best on this iconic flat, fast course. Make it your race-cation. Make it your first IRONMAN. Make it yours.

BEACH HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS November 24–25

Thanksgiving weekend in Panama City Beach waves goodbye to fall and sets the stage for the most magical month of the year. Thanksgiving Thursday may be the time for turkey, but Santa Claus is coming to town that weekend! Aaron Bessant Park serves as the site of carol-themed concerts, s’mores, an appearance by Santa, and activities for the kids. Fireworks will be the encore each night.

NEW YEAR’S EVE BEACH BALL DROP December 31

Come to Panama City Beach on December 31 to enjoy not one but two great opportunities to welcome the New Year. The streets of Pier Park are closed off to traffic as thousands of revelers enjoy free live music, entertainment, fireworks, and good cheer. For those too excited to wait or those fans of New Year’s Eve who want to conduct the countdown twice, there are separate Beach Ball Drops at 8:00 p.m. and midnight. On the way to midnight, bands perform for the gathering crowd, anticipating the countdown to 2024 when a giant, glowing beach ball is lowered to signal the start of the New Year and an excellent fireworks display lights up the night. Times Square has nothing on this Panama City Beach NYE party!

Head to VisitPanamaCityBeach.com to learn more and start planning your beach trip.

MIAMI ART WEEK 2022

Miami Art Week, synonymous with the world-renowned Art Basel, is North America’s most comprehensive international contemporary art fair. Thousands of talented artists showcase their work in over 1,200 galleries each December alongside an equally impressive nightlife scene. NYLON House hosted the most exclusive party of Miami Art Week with an immersive night dedicated to music, art, culture, and beauty for the second consecutive year. As for exhibitions, the Louis Vuitton Art Basel Installation was a mustsee, as the brand collaborated with renowned artist Yayoi Kusama for a commanding exhibit. Celebrities also flocked to Craig Robins’s exhibition featuring his new collection, Two of the Same Kind, highlighting the works of Marlene Dumas and Jana Euler.

Supermodel and entrepreneur Hailey Bieber and singer Justine Skye

Photo courtesy of NYLON

VIE brand ambassador Marta Rata

Khloé Kardashian, Serena Williams, Kim Kardashian, and David Grutman at NYLON House

Photo courtesy of NYLON

Grammy-winning artist Pharrell Williams with Jeffrey Deitch

Photo courtesy of BFA, World Red Eye

A Sculpture from the Louis Vuitton Art Basel Miami Beach Exhibit

Photo courtesy of BFA

Craig Robins, Yasmine Penniman, and Christian Louboutin

Photo courtesy of BFA, World Red Eye

Supermodel Karolína Kurková

Photo courtesy of BFA, World Red Eye

CAFÉ THIRTY-A CHARITY BALL 2022

Café Thirty-A’s Annual Christmas Charity Ball was another one for the books as community members gathered to support Caring and Sharing of South Walton’s efforts to assist families and individuals in need. Guests enjoyed hors d’oeuvres while participating in a large silent auction featuring items from local businesses, including a generous raffle package from Hotel Effie. The funds raised directly benefited efforts to provide our neighbors in need with access to food, financial assistance, mental health counseling, case management, and connection to community resources. For many reasons, Café Thirty-A is one of the most beloved restaurants along the Emerald Coast, but the Annual Christmas Charity Ball reminds us of the good that can happen when a community comes together.

Darrell Russell

Christoffer Fasth, Jackie Maliszewski, and Hilary Farnum-Fasth

Joseph Rogers, Carly Barnes, and Nathan Cordle

Susan Benton, Michelle Harris, and Jessica Proffitt Bracken

Photos by A&J Photography

Andre and Diane Dominick

Café Thirty-A’s Annual Christmas Charity Ball raised a record $50,000 for Caring and Sharing of South Walton. Visit CafeThirtyA.com and CaringandSharingSoWal.org to learn more.

Solution on next page

SEE THE WORLD

BY MYLES MELLOR

DOWN

1

I travel not to go anywhere, but to go.

—Robert Louis Stevenson

For more information about 18 or to make a reservation, visit 18StAndrews.co.uk.

courtesy of 18

Au revoir!

BEFORE YOU GO . . .

Rusacks St. Andrews is known as a playground for golfers around the world. The five-star hotel on the east coast of Scotland is surrounded by rich history and culture. For some of the best views and food on the property, the rooftop restaurant and bar, 18, boasts the most beautiful views of St. Andrews Old Course and West Sand Beach. It also offers sizzling Scottish-inspired dishes made with locally grown ingredients. Award-winning Chef Derek Johnstone leads the high-end culinary experience, and with a mini putting course on the outside terrace, 18 is a golfer’s dream.

Photo

COMING SOON

487 SEAWINDS DR, SANTA ROSA BEACH (BELLAMAR)

This serendipitous beach residence was thoughtfully designed with full-time coastal living in mind. Features include luxury finishes throughout, multiple indoor and outdoor living spaces, five bedrooms with en suite baths, an oversized three-car garage, and a spacious and private outdoor area complete with a private pool, spa, and summer kitchen. This gated community boasts convenient access to beautiful Santa Rosa Golf & Beach Club, white sandy beaches and rare coastal dune lakes.

Architecture by Anthony Vallee | Photo by Katie DeSantis