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EDITOR Emma Dance editor@foodlovermagazine.com ADVERTISING MANAGER Zoe Thorner zoe@foodlovermagazine.com

Welcome FOODLOVERS! There’s no doubt that autumn has well and truly arrived. The nights are drawing in, and the leaves are transforming from green to shades of red and gold. And while it’s always sad to see the end of summer, there’s something lovely about the foods of autumn. In this issue we’ve highlighted pumpkins (p34), cabbages (p38) and quince (p40) which are all at their best right about now.

GRAPHIC DESIGNER Pamela Evans, Palm Design PUBLISHED BY Ignyte Media

THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER® T: 01761409831 www.foodlovermagazine.com Whilst every care has been taken in compiling this publication FOODLOVER® shall not be made liable for any inaccuracies therein. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor.

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This time of year also heralds the start of the new season of the Great British Bake Off, which always prompts a wave of baking fever across the nation. With this in mind, we’ve found all the kit you need to help you with your bakes (p6), and enlisted an expert baker to share some hints and tips (p11). We’ve also turned our attention to sourdough (p28), taken a closer look at the regional cuisines of India (p17) and chatted to two chocolatiers specialising in raw chocolate (p24). And, of course, we’ve got plenty of recipes for you to try too. If you give any of them a go, we’d love to see how you got on, so please do share pictures of your creations on social media and tag us in – you can find us on Facebook (@foodlovermag), Twitter (@FOODLOVERmag) and on Instagram (@foodlovermag). Enjoy the issue!

Contents

Emma

04 news & WHAT'S ON

18 INDIAN CUISINE

06 Editor’s Picks

28 SPOTLIGHT ON SOURDOUGH

Foodie news and events from across the West Country

We've found some top kitchen kit to help you nail your bakes

08 Shopping list

Fill your basket with these tasty treats from West Country producers

09 COMPETITIONS

Win a meal for two at an award-winning pub, or a bundle of rum goodies

11 BAKING MAD

Expert tips and advice to ensure you get perfect results every time, and Star Baker-worthy recipes

A closer look at the regional cuisines of India

Find out what makes sourdough so special

In season:

34 PUMPKIN

They’re not just good for Jack o’lanterns!

38 CABBAGE

Emma Dance, Editor

editor@foodlovermagazine.com

Love local:

24 RAW CHOCOLATE

We meet two West Country raw chocolatiers

43 Chef'S profile

We meet Gianpero Mugano, head chef at The Red Church in Bristol

Cooking companion: 42 Cookbooks

Making the most of this leafy brassica

New cookbooks to inspire your culinary creations

40 QUINCE

44 Little Cooks

The winter fruit that’s full of possibilities

Frightfully good recipes for Halloween

NEWS

A MILESTONE ANNIVERSARY

DEVON

Multi award-winning Sharpham Wine and Cheese is celebrating 40 years at the South Devon based Sharpham Estate. Forty years ago, Maurice Ash brought his herd of Jersey cows down from Essex to the Sharpham Estate in Devon and set to work crafting his first creamy, bloomy-rinded brie. He then planted the first vineyard overlooking the River Dart in a bid to produce wine. The next incarnation came when a family member, Mark Sharman, and his partner, Debbie Mumford, took over the dairy and vineyard. They launched new cheeses with exceptional goats’ and sheep’s milk, which are still winning global awards today. Over the years, while the products continue to be made with the same care and attention as always, the cheese and wine brands have now evolved and grown into two separate entities. While many changes have taken place over the four decades, both businesses’ roots continue to run deep through the geographically unique River Dart. The river brings with it sea breezes, ecological diversity and lends an exciting environment which breathes life into the cheese and wine’s character. www.sharphamcheese.co.uk/www.sharpham.co.uk

Your Home Izakaya with chef Tim Anderson in Bath 3 November Chef Tim Anderson, winner of MasterChef 2011 and regular panellist on Kitchen Cabinet, is coming to Topping and Co. bookshop in Bath. Tim will be talking about his new book Your Home Izayaka which has been inspired by the drinking-and-dining dens of Japan. Izakaya began as sake stores that allowed their customers to drink on the premises, and, over time, they began to serve food as well. The food is simple to prepare but big on flavour, making it conducive to sociable snacking in between gulps of booze. toppingbooks.co.uk

4 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

BATH

NEWS

NEWS&EVENTS

The latest foodie happenings from across the West Country

Let them eat cake!

BRISTOL

The Choux Box Patisserie has opened at Wapping Wharf in Bristol, bringing classic French patisserie with a twist and some sparkle to the area. The Choux Box was founded by pastry chef and Somerset born Orlando Partner, and opened its first site in Bath in October last year. Having worked as a pastry chef in Michelin-starred kitchens for over 10 years, Orlando decided to start The Choux Box, using his knowledge and expertise with a goal to make high quality patisserie fun. The Choux Box now plans to bring its "buns with personality" to Bristol, with its original Bath location and production kitchen remaining in place. Visitors can expect to find a patisserie counter full of colourful classic choux buns and macarons, as well as delicious local coffee. A brand-new weekend special will be released each week. Limited edition flavours will include ‘The Chocolate Custard Choux-Nut', ‘Pistachio and Chocolate MilleFeuille Choux' and ‘The Tirimi-Choux' to name a few. The Choux Box works closely with local South West suppliers, with everything used in the choux buns being sourced from within a 20 mile radius of their production kitchen, located in Bath. www.thechouxboxpatisserie.com

DEVON

A FIRM FAVOURITE

Eversfield Organic Dartmoor Inn, Merrivale, has been recognised as a 2021 Travellers' Choice award winner for restaurants around the world. This achievement celebrates businesses that consistently deliver fantastic experiences to diners around the globe, having earned great traveller reviews on TripAdvisor over the last 12 months. The 17th-century Moorland Inn with restaurant and B&B rooms is nestled in the heart of Dartmoor, serving a 100% organic menu from breakfast through to dinner. Sitting just a stone’s throw from Tavistock and Princetown, the breathtaking views across the moor are the perfect backdrop to the locally sourced and ethically produced dishes. www.eversfieldorganic.co.uk

DEVON

SEEING STARS Lewtrenchard Manor near Okehampton, Devon, has retained its two AA stars for another year. Director and General Manager Duncan Murray said: “Our small and talented team has worked

Tours and tastings at new distillery

CORNWALL English Spirit opened the doors of their new state-of-the-art distillery on 1 October. The new distillery sits in a renovated agricultural building, in the grounds of the historic manor house. Standing at more than 620 square meters in size, the architecturally designed space houses a cafè, bar, distillery shop, and of course, the distillery, as well as a lakeside patio area and a landscape garden housing five geodesic domes, growing a range of produce and botanicals. Visitors can take part in tours and tastings to learn about the production process firsthand, and how the distillery team turns the copper pot still, before bottling up their award-winning spirits. Tour guests will also be invited to wander around the geodesic grow domes. Inspired by a local landmark, the Eden Project, there will be a wide variety of plants and botanicals sprouting across the 900 square meters of growing space, including juniper for the gin, a range of citrus trees, and fresh herbs for garnishes. “This has been a real journey for us: we have spent the last three years planning, designing, project managing, and building our new distillery, and now it’s finally ready to share with the world,” said James Lawrence, General Manager at Treguddick. “We’ve poured our heart and soul into building a new home worthy of our wonderful spirits, and so we can’t wait to welcome everybody inside to show them around!” www.englishspirit.uk/treguddick

extremely hard, especially over the last couple of months. We could not have done this without their hard work and passion for the industry. It has been a tough year and we are lucky to be able to push forward and grow.” www.lewtrenchard.co.uk

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 5

LIFESTYLE

FLOUR POWER

Tala Originals Flour Storage Tins, £10 each talacooking.com Ticking the boxes as both stylish and practical, these flour storage tins solve the problem of keeping both plain and self-raising flour fresh, dry and most importantly, separate.

PERFECT BLEND

Russell Hobbs Emma Bridgwater 3-in-1 Hand Blender, £69.99 uk.russellhobbs.com This 3-in-1 blender is perfect for anyone with limited kitchen storage space. The eye-catching Emma Bridgewater Hand Blender is an impressive 500W and is designed to give you a powerful performance every time. The hand mixer can assist you with multiple bakes and comes with a variety of attachments for your every need.

EDITOR’S Picks

BAKING MAD

Bits and pieces to help you achieve show stopping bakes

TESTING, TESTING

My Kitchen Pastel Cake Tester, £3.99 Lakeland, lakeland.co.uk Your cake’s come out of the oven, looking lovely, you turn it out onto your cooling rack… and it promptly falls apart because it isn’t properly cooked in the middle. Not what anyone wants to happen, and with this Pastel Cake Tester, it won’t, ever again. To test, just slide the stainless steel pointy end into your cake and pull it out — when your cake is properly baked it will come out smoothly, with no cake mixture sticking to it. If it doesn’t, you know to leave your cake in the oven for another few minutes before trying again.

ROLL ON

Joseph Joseph Adjustable Rolling Pin, £25 josephjoseph.com This innovative rolling pin takes the guesswork out of preparing dough and pastry with four sets of rolling pin rings that raise the rolling surface by different amounts, to create exactly the required pastry thickness.

MIX IT UP

KitchenAid Limited Edition Light and Shadow Stand Mixer, £699 kitchenaid.co.uk The exceptional styling of this ultra-chic model contrasts the smooth sun-soaked sand tone of the stand mixer with the compelling dark, studded, shadow-casting, three-dimensional studs of the tactile, ceramic bowl. It doesn’t just look good, either. KitchenAid are known for the quality of their mixers, and this one comes with standard stainless steel accessories, including a flat beater, dough hook and wire whisk.

6 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

LIFESTYLE

LIFE IN COLOUR

Edible Silk Assortment, £9.99 Lakeland, lakeland.co.uk Create a shimmering bright metallic finish on your cupcakes, cookies and home-made chocolates with this easy-to-use quintet of Rainbow Dust Edible Silk lustre powders, which are also ideal for using with stencils. The 100% edible lustre dusts give bakes a soft, shimmery finish and a hint of sparkle.

ZEST FOR LIFE

Microplane Premium Classic Zester, £19.95 hartsofstur.com The long-lasting, rasp-like Premium Classic Zester features 400 micro-teeth which behave like ultra-sharp knives to zest and grate ingredients with precision. Ideal for all citrus fruits, hard cheese, chocolate, ginger, garlic and nutmeg. With no pressure, the food slides quickly and effortlessly from the blade without tearing, shredding or blocking to produce perfect results every time.

ON DISPLAY

Laura Ashley Blueprint Collectables Cake Stand, £40 next.co.uk Beautiful bakes deserve to be beautifully displayed, and this three-tier cake stand featuring a trio of blue and white floral prints and a gold-tone handle will show off your creations beautifully. Tea time never looked so elegant!

PIE EYED

Blackbird Pie Funnel, £3.99 Lakeland, lakeland.co.uk Forget about baking four-and-twenty blackbirds in your pie — this little bird is all you need! It might not sing when the pie is opened, but it will help you get a great result. Place the funnel in the centre of the pie and it will stop the filling bubbling out, and let steam escape to keep the pastry crisp.

DAILY BREAD

Panasonic SD-YR2540 Bread Maker, £239 panasonicdirect.store.panasonic.co.uk Having freshly baked bread every day has never been easier thanks to Panasonic’s new line of breadmakers. This top-of-the-range model has a whopping 32 automatic programmes including wholewheat, pizza doughs, brioche, cakes, doughs, sourdough starters, jams and compotes, as well as dedicated gluten-free settings.

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 7

SHOPPING

SALCOMBE BREWERY BREEZE SESSION LAGER

LAYCOCK SPARKLING MEDIUM DRY CIDER

£22 for 12 x 330ml cans from salcombebrewery.com

£2.50 for 500ml bottle from laycockcider.co.uk

The latest addition to the Devon brewery’s range, Breeze (ABV 4.0%) is brewed using two contrasting British hops, Jester and Boadicea. The Jester brings hints of tropical fruit, while the Boadicea introduces subtle spicy notes with hints of orchard blossom. Together they help bring structure and balance to this elegant lager.

Neither too dry or too sweet, this cider from Laycock Cider in Sherborne is the perfect crowd pleaser. And it certainly pleased the judges at the Dorset Great Taste Awards 2020 who awarded it a gold star. Lightly sparkling with a crisp, bright finish, it’s best enjoyed in a traditional earthenware pint jug served at room temperature, for an authentic experience!

Shopping list Tasty West Country produce to try PUKKA JOY HERBAL TEA £2.99 per box from Tesco

THE BATH ALCHEMIST APPLE CIDER VINEGAR WELLNESS TONIC NO 1

£12.95 for 240ml and £19.95 for 480ml from thebathalchemist.com Introducing a new way to support gut health and boost natural health processes on a daily basis, The Bath Alchemist has launched its first ever live vinegar; Apple Cider Vinegar Wellness Tonic No 1. Raw, vegan and unsweetened, but brimming with flavour, this fermented tonic uses organic Apple Cider Vinegar with 'The Mother' as its base, alongside a combination of immune boosting ingredients, including turmeric, ginger, horseradish, garlic, rosemary, star anise, habanero peppers and much more.

8 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

Joy has been expertly blended by practicing herbalist and Pukka CoFounder, Sebastian Pole, using natural, 100% organic and ethically sourced plants. Luscious lemon balm, lemongrass, and citrusy orange uplift, whilst licorice and rose comfort and support; and calming lavender and lemon verbena help to relax.

THE CHERRY TREE SPICY TOMATO AND CARAMELISED ONION TABLE SAUCE £3.50 a jar from www.cherrytreepreserves.co.uk Dorset-based preserve makers, The Cherry Tree, have launched this new super-tasty table sauce. It can be used in a number of ways: as a ketchup to take burgers, chips and sandwiches to the next level; as a flavour boost to your cooking; or as a glaze or marinade. It can even be used to create dips.

PRIZES

WIN FOODIE PRIZES WIN A WEEKDAY MEAL FOR TWO AT THE BARRINGTON BOAR

The Barrington Boar is a critically acclaimed restaurant and bar with rooms in the heart of the South Somerset countryside, run by husband and wife team, Alasdair Clifford and Victoria Collins. Situated in the picturesque village of Barrington, a short walk from the National Trust's 17th-century manor and gardens, Barrington Court, The Barrington Boar was recently included in The Times' Top 20 perfect places to go for a pub lunch in the UK. Alasdair grew up locally and has more than ten years’ experience working in Michelin-starred restaurants, including Chez Bruce, Harwood Arms and The Glasshouse. His menu at The Barrington Boar has a deep connection with Somerset’s rich culinary heritage and environment and focuses on seasonal ingredients — the majority of which are from Somerset — from the local farmers, foragers, brewers and cheesemongers living within a few miles of the restaurant. The bar focuses its drinks menu on South West produce, with a selection of local ales and ciders on tap, craft beers, local gins and English sparkling wines. The winner and guest will enjoy a three course meal for two with a bottle of house wine, plus a glass of Somerset cider brandy at the end of the meal.

WIN A DEVON RUM DISCOVERY BUNDLE Devon Rum Co.’s premium spiced rums are a unique blend of exotic pot and column distilled Caribbean rums from Jamaica and Guyana. Natural Devon spring water is added here in the UK, and the rum is then infused with natural aromatic spices and citrus zest. You could win a special bundle, worth more than £75, to help you discover the delights of these hand-crafted spiced rums. The prize includes, 70cl Premium Spiced Rum, 70cl Honey Spiced Rum and a selection of Fever-Tree Mixers that perfectly complement the blends, including Cola, Ginger Beer and Mexican Lime Soda.

TO BE IN WITH A CHANCE OF WINNING THESE FANTASTIC PRIZES, visit www.foodlovermagazine.com/competitions and enter your details by 14 November 2021. GOOD LUCK! FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 9

On your marks, get set, bake!

Photos by: Roulade Element5 Digital on Unsplash, fruit pie Elena Sambros on Unsplash, bread by Burns the Bread, brownies Michelle Tsang on Unsplash, fruitcake by Burns the Bread

It’s that time of the year when the Great British Bake Off is back on our screens, and baking fever grips the nation. Over the last 18 months or so, thanks to lockdowns, many people have baked more than ever before — it’s no coincidence that “banana

bread” was one of the most searched for recipes last year. But to win that coveted apron takes some special skill, and even the most talented bakers can, from time to time, find themselves stymied by some seemingly basic recipes (remember brownie-gate last season?).

BAKING MAD

Top tips and advice to help you perfect your bakes

To help you master some of the techniques frequently put to the test on our favourite baking show, Casey Stoddard, Commercial Director at Burns the Bread bakers in Glastonbury has shared his top tips.

How do you roll a roulade without it cracking? Roulades can be extremely basic but look ever so delicious! It’s easiest to roll a roulade when it’s still hot, first, place it on a fresh sheet of baking parchment and start to roll it fairly tightly. The baking parchment will stop the sponge from sticking to itself. Once cooled unroll slowly, this makes it much easier to roll again once you’ve topped with your favourite filling.

What’s the secret to a perfectly gooey brownie? Whenever I bake brownies, I always like to underbake them and, brownies can go from perfect to overdone in just a couple of minutes. Peanut Butter Brownies are my favourite!

How do you know if you have kneaded bread for long enough? Kneading bread can be quite a physical task and there are three signs that will tell you when you’re ready to stop. 1 If the dough tears then you need to knead for a bit longer, if it stretches and forms a thin almost see-through layer you’re good. 2 If you press your finger into the dough and it leaves an indent then you need a little longer. The dough should spring back when you’re ready. 3 Your dough should also have a nice smooth texture. If it’s still a bit wet and sticky your dough isn’t ready quite yet.

How do you prevent a “soggy bottom” when making a pie? Blind baking is always a pretty good way of ensuring your pie doesn’t have a soggy bottom, but I find baking at a relatively high heat of 220 degrees and then turning the oven down to 180 around halfway through has generally worked for me.

Does it matter if you bake your cake in the top, middle or bottom of the oven? Each oven is unique, in the bakery all our deck ovens have a stone base so it’s very different from your oven at home, but as a rule I like to put my cakes in the middle of the oven at home. You want to get a nice even amount of heat around the whole cake.

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 11

BAKING MAD

BATTENBERG CAKE The splendid Tala Battenberg Tin cleverly helps you create one of our all-time favourite cakes, as its nifty dividers make four even strips of cake to assemble into a chequerboard pattern. SERVES 10-12

FOR THE SPONGES 125g butter, at room temperature, plus a little extra for greasing 125g caster sugar 2 medium eggs, beaten ¼ tsp almond extract 50g ground almonds 100g self-raising flour Pinch of salt 2 tsp milk 3-4 drops red food colouring TO DECORATE 100g apricot jam Icing sugar, for dusting 400g white or yellow marzipan Caster sugar, for sprinkling

1 Grease the Tala Battenberg Tin with butter, then line each section with strips of baking parchment, firmly creased so they fit neatly. Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.

12 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

2 Beat the butter and sugar together in a large mixing bowl using a handheld electric mixer or wooden spoon, until light and fluffy. Gradually add the eggs, beating well between each addition. Stir in the almond extract and ground almonds. Sift in the flour and salt, folding in gently with a large metal spoon. Stir in the milk.

water, then pass it through a sieve to make

3 Divide the mixture equally into two separate bowls by weighing them accurately. Stir the red food colouring into one portion, mixing thoroughly to give an even pink colour.

until pliable, then roll out into a neat rectangle

4 Share the pink mixture equally between two sections of the prepared tin, levelling the surface smoothly and making sure that it goes into the corners. Share the plain mixture between the remaining two sections in the same way. 5 Bake for 23-25 minutes, until risen and firm. Cool on a wire rack until barely warm, then carefully remove the sponges by easing out the dividers. Peel away the lining parchment carefully and leave until completely cold. 6 Trim the sponges with a sharp serrated knife (a bread knife is ideal) so that they are all the same size. Warm the apricot jam with 1 tbsp

sure that it’s smooth. Assemble the cakes into a chequerboard pattern, brushing the surfaces that meet with apricot jam. 7 Sprinkle a spotlessly clean work surface with icing sugar. Knead the marzipan for a few moments measuring 20 x 30cm, trimming the edges with a sharp knife to be as accurate as possible. 8 Brush the surface of the marzipan with apricot jam (re-warmed if necessary). Set the cake on top, lining up the long side of the cake with one shorter edge of marzipan. Roll the cake and marzipan up carefully, pressing gently as you go, to cover with marzipan, sealing the joins together and leaving the chequerboard ends free. 9 Smooth the marzipan with your hands to neaten it up, trim if needed, then pinch the top along each side to crimp it. Sprinkle with a little caster sugar, then serve. Recipe by Lakeland (lakeland.co.uk)

BAKING MAD

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SEA SALT AND PEANUT BUTTER BROWNIES MAKES 12

200g good quality plain cooking chocolate 250g butter 4 eggs 300g golden caster sugar 125g plain flour (or gluten free plain flour for a gluten free version) 100g toasted peanuts, chopped 2 tbsp Freda’s Cornish Sea Salt Peanut Butter

1 Preheat the oven to 190˚C/Gas Mark 5. 2 Line a 10 x 7 inch (25 x 17cm) tray with parchment. 3 Melt the chocolate and the spread in a medium sized bowl in the microwave. 4 Beat in the eggs. 5 Add sugar, flour and peanuts and stir until just combined. 6 Pour into the prepared tin. 7 Add the peanut butter on top in small blobs and swirl into the mixture. 8 Bake for 25 minutes until just set to touch. 9 Allow to cool in the tin before cutting into squares. Recipe by Freda’s (fredas.co.uk)

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 13

BAKING MAD

RASPBERRY, ROSE WATER AND WHITE CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS Eclairs are pretty easy to make from scratch. You can go classic chocolate and cream or mix up the flavours. Sharp raspberry and fragrant rose water cut perfectly through whipped cream and white chocolate. SERVES 12

FOR THE CHOUX PASTRY 65g unsalted butter 100g strong bread flour 3 large Clarence Court Burford Brown eggs, cracked into a jug Pinch of salt FOR THE FILLING 350ml double cream Rose water Vanilla paste 250g fresh raspberries 1 tbsp icing sugar FOR THE TOPPING 200g good quality white chocolate Sugared rose petals (optional) 2 tsp freeze dried raspberries, crushed

1 Preheat the oven to 200˚C/Gas Mark 6. Line 2 baking sheets with greaseproof paper and mark out 6 evenly spaced 12cm lines on each one. These will act as a guide later for piping the eclairs. Have a large piping bag ready fitted with a large round nozzle.

2 Place the butter and 150ml water in a large saucepan and put on a medium heat until the butter has melted, allow the water to come to the boil and as soon as it does, switch off the heat and then quickly tip all of the flour into the pan at once. As quickly as possible, mix everything together with a wooden spoon. As you mix, you’ll see the lumpy dough transform into a smooth dough that comes away from the sides of the pan. Mix most of the egg into the pan a little at a time, mixing well and looking for the desired “dropping” consistency. 3 Transfer the mixture to the piping bag and pipe the mixture confidently along the drawn lines. Once the mixture is piped, place the trays in the oven and bake for 10 minutes. After that time, reduce the heat to 180˚C and bake for a further 10-15 minutes or until golden and well risen. Turn off the oven and leave the eclairs to harden a little for 5 minutes. 4 Make a slit in each end of the éclair to allow the steam to escape and place on a cooling rack to cool completely. 5 Meanwhile, pick 12 perfect raspberries and put to one side. Place the rest of the raspberries in a mixing bowl with the icing sugar and add a few drops of rose water. Mash through a small sieve and place to one side.

6 Put the double cream into a large mixing bowl with 1 teaspoon of vanilla bean paste and whisk to soft peaks. Ripple through half the sieved raspberry and place the rest to one side. 7 To prepare the cream for piping, place a few tablespoons in a piping bag with a wide nozzle and spoon in 1 teaspoon of raspberry coulis, add more cream and a little more coulis followed by the rest of the cream. Keep the rest of the coulis for drizzling. 8 Either pipe the cream into the cooled eclairs or cut them in half and pipe the cream down the centre to make a sandwich. Repeat with all the eclairs and place them back on the cooling rack. 9 Meanwhile, break up the white chocolate and place in a heat proof bowl over a small pan of simmering water on the hob. Stir until melted. 10 Take the bowl off the heat and carefully dip each éclair into the chocolate at a 45 degree angle to coat the top. Place a raspberry on top of each eclair and sprinkle over the dehydrated raspberry and rose petal (if using). 11 Place the eclairs back on the cooling rack and allow to set in the fridge or in a cool place for around 30 minutes. Serve with a drizzle of remaining coulis. Recipe by Clarence Court Eggs (clarencecourt.co.uk)

Tip Eat on the same day, these don’t really keep very well but would survive one night in a covered container in the fridge. You can make the pastry cases in advance and freeze, defrost fully before filling with cream and topping.

14 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

BAKING MAD

CHEESE AND WALNUT TEAR ‘N’ SHARE SCONES WITH WALNUT BUTTER SERVES 10

225g self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp English mustard powder 100g butter, diced 100g Cheddar cheese, grated 75g walnut pieces, chopped + 25g for the butter 3 tbsp chopped chives 150ml milk

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C/ Gas Mark 6. Grease a large baking sheet. 2 Mix the flour, baking powder and mustard in a large bowl and Cook's Tip rub in 50g butter Try making la rger until it resembles individual scon breadcrumbs. Stir in es, great as a snac 75g Cheddar, all but k or in lunch boxes. 2 tbsp of the walnuts and 2 tbsp chives.

Using a round bladed knife, mix in the milk to give a soft dough, taking care not to over knead it. 3 Transfer to a floured surface and roll out until 2cm thick. Using a 6cm round cutter, cut out 10 rounds and arrange them in a circle shape on the baking tray so that they all just touch each other. Brush with milk. Mix the remaining Cheddar with the reserved 2 tbsp walnuts and sprinkle on top of the scones. Bake for 20-25 minutes until golden. 4 Meanwhile, soften the remaining 50g butter and mix in the last 1 tbsp chives and the final 25g finely chopped walnuts. 5 Serve the scones warm with the walnut butter. Recipe by California Walnuts (californiawalnuts.co.uk)

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 15

Spice u p our life

INDIAN CUISINE

Find out more about the regional cuisines of India

It’s easy to talk about “Indian food” in a blasé manner, considering ourselves experts because we know the menu at our local takeaway like the back of our hand. But really, that is doing it a great disservice. After all, India is vast; really vast. A subcontinent made up of 28 states and seven union territories it’s home to a wide diversity of people and cultures, with influences drawn from all over the globe, including the Moguls, Portuguese, Persians and British. So, then, it’s perhaps not surprising that

every state has its own cookery style and tastes based on seasonal produce, local traditions and cultural influences. As a general rule, in the colder, northern states, warming, aromatically spiced dishes are eaten, whereas in the more intense heat of the southern states, the food tends to be lighter, with more use of coconut. Here, we take a closer look at some of the main characteristics of the cuisines of different regions.

NORTHERN INDIA

(Kashmir, Punjab, Delhi, Uttar Pradesh, and Rajasthan) The food of northern India is heavily influenced by its history, topography and climate, with strong Central Asian influences in both its food and culture. The climate results in an abundance of specific ingredients, such as wheat, rice, maize, dairy, mustard seed, dried fruits, pistachios, almonds, saffron, turmeric and cumin. There’s a big influence from the Mughal empire too, which ruled during the 16th and 17th centuries — paneer, ghee and yoghurt all frequently featured in the dishes served in the opulent courts. Dishes in the north — and Punjab especially — often revolve around the tandoor oven, which is used to cook meats and breads.

Popular dishes Amritsari macchi: River fish coated in a chickpea batter then deep-fried and served with various chutneys. Roghan Gosht: (aka Roahn Josh): Slow-cooked lamb stew using fennel, ginger and rattan jyot (made from tree bark). Jalebi with Rabdi: Swirls of deep-fried batter, topped with a creamy condensed-milk sauce, spices, sugar and nuts. Malai kofta: Fried pastries filled with spiced potatoes, onions, peas and lentils.

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INDIAN CUISINE

SOUTHERN INDIA

(Karnataka, Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, Tamilnadu and Kerala) Loganathan Ramasamy, is Head Chef at My Local Indian (mylocalindian.com) which produces restaurant-quality, authentic Southern Indian food which is freshly cooked and frozen, to seal in and preserve the aromas and flavours, and delivered direct to homes. He tells us more about the cuisine which he loves. “Explorers, traders and adventurers have been drawn to Kerala for more than a thousand years, from all corners of India and the world. This melting pot of culinary and social history has influenced recipes down the centuries, resulting in a mix of flavours, ingredients, textures and tastes that are unique to this tropical paradise at India’s southern tip. From spectacular Chinese fishing nets on the waterside, to the synagogues, churches, temples and mosques that sit side by side in bustling streets that lead to the docks and the spice markets — the ports of Kerala’s western shore, lapped by the waters of the Arabian Sea, live their history in vibrant colour. Traders, migrants and invaders were drawn here by the exotic spices that made many a fortune over the centuries and which colour the rich palette of Keralan cuisine. “Lovers of Indian food will be familiar with dishes mainly using chicken and lamb, however Keralan dishes often have a seafood base, with tumeric, cardamom, pepper and coconut gently infusing with the delicate flavour of the fish. Arabian explorers and traders brought with them their love of rich and meaty beef and mutton stews, and these too, flavoured with cumin, clove, ginger and black pepper are popular dishes. Vegetarians are also very well catered for in Keralan cuisine, with the freshest vegetables and tropical coconut, mango and pineapple featuring in many dishes, as well as warm and comforting dhal and chickpea-based recipes.”

Popular dishes

Image by My Local Indian

Achayan's Beef Ularthiyathu: Tender beef slow roasted in a mixture of spices, onions, curry leaves and coconut flakes. Keralan Fish Curry: Sea bass chunks cooked with aromatic spices, coconut cream and tangy tamarind. Toddy Shop Kappa: Tapioca mash seasoned with a mixture of spices, ground coconut and curry leaves. Munnar Chicken: Chicken cooked in rich spices finished with coconut milk cutting through the spicy flavour.

EASTERN INDIA

(Bengal, Orissa, Bihar, and Assam) The cuisine of this region is characterised by the seas and rivers. Coconut palms line the coasts, while the fertile plains are covered with mustard and tea plantations. Green vegetables, fruit and rice are all plentiful, thanks to the humid climate and epic rainfalls. Fish from the Bay of Bengal is eaten frequently in place of meat, with cooling yoghurt making an appearance at almost every meal. Mustard oil is often used for cooking (especially in Bengali cusine), giving dishes a distinctive pungent, but slightly sweet, flavour. Food from this area is characterised by subtle spicing, often involving mustard, cumin, anise and fenugreek seeds.

Popular dishes

Puchkas: A flaky shell full of sour tamarind water, chaat masala, potatoes, chilli and chutney, Halmuri: Puffed rice with a mixture of vegetables, nuts and spices. Machher jhol: A tomato-based fish curry. Chhena poda: Roasted cottage cheese with cashews and raisins. Payesh: Rice pudding sweetened with jaggery. Baah gajor gahori: Pork with bamboo shoots and sticky rice.

WESTERN INDIA

(Gujarat, Maharashtra, Goa, and Konkan)

The cuisine in the Western region is highly diverse. Due to its coastal location, coconut milk, fish and seafood are dominant in the dishes of Maharashtra. In contrast, however, the interior regions rely much more heavily on grains and cereals. Gujurat is especially well known for its vegetarian dishes, as well as chutneys. Goa acted as a major trade port and colony for Portugal, resulting in a distinctive and unique blend of Indian and Portuguese culinary elements. Goan cuisine uses pork and beef with greater frequency than other regional cuisines in India, fish is also a staple. Goan cuisine usually tends to be hot and spicy and uses a lot of coconut milk, coconut paste, vinegar, and tamarind juice.

Popular dishes

Koliwada: Spicy battered and fried fish. Kombdi vade: Chicken curry and deep-fried bread. Kismur: A type of salad made using dried shrimp or fish, coconut and onions. Choris pao: Local bread stuffed with pork sausage.

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INDIAN CUISINE

SEA BASS WITH COCONUT AND RUNNER BEAN CURRY SERVES 4

2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 shallots, halved and finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 heaped tsp fresh root ginger, grated 10 fresh curry leaves (or dried) 1 tsp garam masala ½ tsp ground turmeric, plus extra for dusting ½ tsp salt 400g can coconut milk 300g runner beans, trimmed and finely sliced on the diagonal 2 unwaxed limes; zest of 1, juice of 1, 1 cut into wedges 4 sea bass fillets 2 x 250g packs ready-cooked basmati rice (or 500g of cooked rice), to serve

1 Put 1 tbsp oil in a large sauté or frying pan over a medium heat. Add the shallots, garlic, ginger and curry leaves; fry for 2-3 minutes until everything is fragrant and turning golden. Add the spices and salt; fry for 1 minute more. 2 Add the coconut milk to the pan and bring to a simmer; add the beans. Simmer gently for about 6-8 minutes, stirring occasionally until the beans are tender. Squeeze in the juice of ½ lime; add more salt and lime juice to taste. 3 Heat the remaining 1 tbsp oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a high heat. Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper and slash the skin a couple of times with a sharp knife. Season the skin with a pinch of salt and a dusting of turmeric then fry, skin-side down, for 3 minutes. Turn the fish, squeeze over the juice of the remaining ½ lime and fry for a final minute until fully cooked through and opaque.

4 Cook the rice according to pack instructions then stir through the zest of 1 lime. 5 Serve the fish and rice with the coconut runner beans and lime wedges. Recipe and images by Waitrose. Thousands of recipes can be found at www.waitrose.com/recipes

COOK’S TIP Fresh curry leaves have a uniquely nutty and citrussy flavour that really lifts this recipe. If you can’t find fresh, then dried curry leaves are also delicious.

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INDIAN CUISINE

n a i d n I

d r a o b p u c e r sto stapl es

If you want to try cooking some Indian dishes at home, then you’ll want to make sure you’ve got these in your cupboard.

SPICE BLENDS

Hill & Vale Spices (www.hillvale.co.uk) in Bristol have put together some versatile spice blends.

Balti Blend

Garam Masala Blend

Dhal Blend

Pilau Rice Blend

One of the nation’s favourite fusion dishes, the Balti was popularised in Birmingham in the 70s. Fragrant, earthy and mildly spicy, this dish is best served in a Balti bowl with traditional Indian naan and pilau rice.

Brings complex aromatics, sweetness and warmth to a dish. It can be used to season a wide variety of meals including curries, soups and stews. Add at the end of cooking to preserve the fragrant aromas.

Warming and sweet with a slight spicy kick, this dhal blend offers a simple way to recreate this classic Indian dish. Works great as a side dish or alongside rice for a main.

Spice mix to recreate this classic and beloved Indian dish. Best used with basmati rice, this side dish acts as a perfect accompaniment to curries.

CHUTNEYS AND PICKLES

Anyone who’s ever had an Indian takeaway will be familiar with mango chutney and lime pickle which are most often served as accompaniments to popadums. Harry Calvert, Founder and Director of Gingerbeard’s Preserves in Bristol (gingerbeardspreserves.co.uk) explains why they make such good platefellows with curries. “These two world-famous curry condiments are eaten with curry for a very good reason. They provide a balance and enhance the flavour of the particular curry. Although of course they do work with all types of curry, these condiments pair well with certain types. For example, I would eat a hot chutney or pickle with a creamy, mild curry as the two would balance each other out, and a sweet, mild mango chutney with a hot tomato-based curry as the sweetness from the chutney would take away some of the heat and acidity from the main dish. Lime pickle is also popular with popadums at the start of the meal, the sharp, zingy flavours help to freshen up the pallet for the meal ahead!” Mango Chutney “From my experience a good mango chutney will have a nice sweetness with just a bit of acidity from the mangoes. This being said, a good mango chutney should not be too sweet (like some of the more commercially produced chutneys), so if you're making your own at home, be sure to tone down the sugar! I always enjoy a mango chutney that is subtely aromatic with spices such as cumin and cinnamon... but again you don't want to over do these as the mango chutney is meant for complimenting the curry not overpowering it.” Lime Pickle “Lime pickle, like a mango chutney, comes in many forms. I have tried some good and bad lime pickles in my lifetime and for me, it all comes down to whether the limes are preparded correctly, there is nothing worse than getting a chewy piece of lime... oh and it should have a bit of a chilli kick too! Our lime pickle recipe is based on a Lebanese recipe rather than an Indian recipe and is much fresher and more delicate in flavour than its Indian counterparts. The production process starts three days before the product is actually bottled to help soften the limes. It then sits in the jars for a further four weeks for the flavours and spices to develop and the peel to soften before it's ready to be enjoyed!”

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INDIAN CUISINE

POTATO, PEA AND CHICKPEA SAMOSAS

olive oil for 3-4 minutes. Add the cumin seeds and fry for a further 1 minute.

These vegan samosas are ideal finger food for a party snack, or as a side dish to go with a homemade curry. Baking them in the oven is a much healthier alternative to fried ones.

3 Drain the cooked potatoes and add to the pan. Add the chickpeas at the same time.

SERVES 12

600g potatoes (red-skinned varieties will work well), peeled and chopped into very small cubes 2 large garlic cloves, grated 1cm piece of ginger, grated 1 red chilli, grated 150g frozen petit pois Large handful of fresh spinach Small handful of fresh coriander 2 tbsp tikka masala spice paste 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed 2 tsp cumin seeds 1 pack (12 sheets) of filo pastry 1 tbsp mango chutney (optional) Salt and pepper Sprinkle of sesame seeds to top (optional)

1 Cook the potatoes in a pan of salted boiling water for 8-10 minutes. 2 Grate the garlic, ginger and red chilli and cook in a large frying pan with 1 tbsp of the

4 Add the frozen petit pois and 100ml of water. 5 Add the tikka paste and season. Combine all the ingredients together. 6 Roughly tear the spinach leaves and coriander and mix into the pan and cook for 3-4 minutes. Then take off the heat and allow to cool. Once cooled add the mango chutney (optional). 7 Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/ Gas Mark 4. 8 Take a large chopping board and place a layer of filo pastry on top (keep the remaining pastry under a slightly damp tea towel to ensure it doesn’t dry out). Using 3 tbsp of the olive oil, very lightly brush the sheet of filo pastry and place another layer directly on top. Using a sharp knife cut down the middle. 9 Take one of the lengths of pastry and place a tbsp of the cooled potato filling mixture into the left-hand corner. Fold a corner of the pastry across (towards you) to make a triangle. Press down the edges. Brush edges with a little olive oil and fold over on itself again. Repeat the brushing with oil and folding until you come to the end of the pastry. You may need to cut off any excess.

10 Place the samosas on a baking tray lined with parchment paper. Brush with a little olive oil and sprinkle with the sesame seeds (optional). 11 Place in the preheated oven and bake for around 20 minutes or until crispy and golden. 12 Serve with mango chutney. Recipe by Seasonal Spuds (seasonalspuds.com)

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INDIAN CUISINE

BHUNA CURRY This dish is a curry house favourite and allows you to bring delicious flavours of Indian cooking to your own kitchen. We’ve included a recipe for a curry base which can be used to make a number of different dishes. The bhuna is a thick and moderately hot curry. We chose to add butternut squash and aubergine but it will work just as well with other vegetables or vegetarian proteins so feel free to use your favourites! SERVES 2-4

FOR THE CURRY BASE 3 tbsp olive oil 2 medium onions 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tsp grated ginger 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander seed 1 tsp turmeric ½ tsp salt 6 fresh coriander stalks, leaves removed 500ml vegetable stock 200g canned chopped tomatoes (approx ½ a tin) FOR THE BHUNA 3 tbsp vegetable oil 1 medium onion roughly chopped 1 green chilli, de-seeded and finely chopped 1 tbsp coriander stems finely chopped 2 inch piece of ginger peeled and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves finely chopped 2 tbsp tomato purée plus 50 ml water to dilute 1 medium butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and chopped into 1 inch cubes 1 aubergine chopped into 1 inch cubes 3-4 cherry tomatoes, halved Spice mix: 2 tsp curry powder, 1 tsp kashmiri chili powder (if unavailable, you can substitute for ¼ tsp cayenne and ¾ tsp paprika), 1 tsp paprika, 1 tsp garam masala, ½ tsp black pepper, ½ tsp sea salt FOR THE CHAPATIS 200g plain flour (use 100g wholemeal flour and 100g plain flour if you have them both) A pinch of salt 100ml water 1 tbsp olive oil

FOR THE BHUNA AND CURRY BASE 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. 2 Bring water to a boil in a large saucepan. Quarter onions and separate the internal layers. Combine all of the above ingredients except tomatoes then bring to a gentle simmer for 40 minutes.

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3 Add tomatoes and continue to simmer for an additional 20 minutes. Allow to cool slightly before blending to a smooth consistency with an immersion or upright blender. 4 Heat up again and simmer for an additional 20-30 minutes to allow the flavours to develop and the oil to separate out. Stir one last time to reincorporate oil. 5 While the curry base is simmering, add squash and aubergine to a baking tray. Season with salt, pepper and a drizzle of olive oil. Roast for approximately 40 minutes or until tender. 6 Heat a frying pan with oil on a medium heat, add and fry the onion for 2 minutes until golden brown. Add ginger, garlic, chilli and coriander stems stirring for a further 2 minutes. 7 Now reduce heat and add the spice mix, stirring constantly for 30 seconds making sure not to burn the spices. 8 Increase heat to medium high and add the diluted tomato pureé and mix well with other

ingredients. Now add the curry base 1/3 at a time stirring in for 2-3 minutes on each occasion. 9 Lower the heat and add the roasted butternut squash and aubergine. Cover the curry and allow to simmer for a further 10-15 minutes. 10 Drop in the cherry tomatoes for the final 3 minutes of simmering. Garnish with fresh coriander and serve with rice and chapatis. CHAPATIS 1 Mix flour, water and salt in a mixing bowl and knead the dough for 10 minutes. Break the dough into small plum sized pieces and sprinkle flour on to your work surface. 2 Roll out the small dough balls into thin roughly circular chapatis. 3 Heat the frying pan on a medium to high heat and cook each of the flat breads one by one. There is no need to use olive oil in the pan when cooking the chapatis. Recipe by Hill & Vale Spices (www.hillvale.co.uk)

INDIAN CUISINE

AUBERGINE MADRAS WITH DHAL & PILAU RICE

2 Mix together the madras spice

A simple homemade recipe for a delicious vegetarian madras. Spicy and rich, this tomato-based curry is perfect for a quick and easy midweek meal.

tbsp olive oil to make a paste, add

SERVES 2-4

FOR THE MADRAS 4 tbsp olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 aubergine, chopped into 1 inch cubes 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 can tinned tomatoes A handful (10g) fresh coriander FOR THE MADRAS SPICE BLEND 4 tsp ground coriander seeds 2 tsp ground cumin seeds ½ tsp ground black pepper ½ tsp turmeric ½ tsp ground black mustard seeds ½ tsp chilli powder ½ tsp salt ½ tsp crushed garlic ½ tsp grated fresh ginger FOR THE DHAL 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 fresh tomato, roughly chopped 2 heaped tsp dhal blend 200g dried lentils (or 1 can of lentils to save time) Parsley to garnish, roughly chopped

FOR THE MADRAS 1 Heat the oil in pan and fry the onion until soft. Add the chopped aubergine with a good glug of olive oil. Cook for approximately 10 minutes on a medium heat.

blend, white wine vinegar and 2 to the aubergine and onion and mix well together. For excess paste, rinse the mixing bowl with a bit of water and pour into the pan. Cook for 1-2 minutes to allow the aubergine to absorb the flavour. 3 Add the can of tomatoes plus half a can full of water and give it a good stir. Simmer for 10 minutes on a medium heat without the lid. 4 Garnish with freshly chopped coriander and serve with pilau rice and dhal. FOR THE DHAL 1 Cook the lentils according to packet instructions. 2 Heat the oil in a pan and add the onion tomato and garlic and fry until soft. 3 Stir in 3 teaspoons of the dhal blend and mix well. 4 Pour cooked lentils and water from pan (or liquid from tin) in with the onions and tomato. Stir thoroughly so flavours are evenly distributed then let simmer for 10 minutes or until it forms a porridge like consistency. Serve and garnish with parsley. Recipe by Hill & Vale Spices (www.hillvale.co.uk)

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Raw Talent

Emma Dance talks raw chocolate with Emily Collett, founder of As Raw As in Somerset, and Judy Hedden, founder of Cornwall’s Chocolate Cove

n general, I don’t have much of a sweet tooth. When it comes to chocolate, though, well, that’s another story. I love chocolate. Like, properly, properly love it. Given the chance, I’d eat it every single day — multiple times. In the interests of my health, however, and in an attempt to make sure that I can still do up my jeans, I try to limit my intake to something that might be considered reasonable. But, it turns out that there may be a way to satisfy my chocolate cravings that isn’t quite so detrimental to my teeth, my health and my waistline. And that way, is raw chocolate.

A healthier option

Surely, chocolate, is chocolate, is chocolate? Well, yes. And no. The fundamental process for making chocolate is fairly simple (in principle): take cacao beans, heat them, grind them until they form a liquid then add fat and sweeteners. The beans used in most of the “mainstream” chocolate (ie Cadbury’s, Galaxy etc) are roasted at around 130˚C. In the making of raw chocolate though, it’s a different story.

“In producing raw chocolate, I like to think that I am providing both a delicious and nutritious treat — full of minerals, especially magnesium and sulphur and also rich

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It was actually these potential health benefits that led to Judy Hedden starting Cornwall’s Chocolate Cove. “My chocolate adventures began because my own health took a dramatic downturn — going from someone who rarely had a cold, I then went through cancer three times,” Judy tells me. “The first time was such a shock; I became completely obsessed with what I ate and studied Nutritional Therapy for three years. The second time I thought well if it’s not food, it must be down to my thoughts so got very into mindfulness and positive thinking, studying to be an EFT Practitioner. By the third time, I was so exhausted from the treatment and the stress of it all (as I’d also had two children and been working throughout) that I thought, ‘just relax about everything and enjoy living.’ So, bouncing back and appreciating the beauty in good nutrition and the benefits of making positive changes to my life, I started to experiment to make healthier versions of hiding-inthe-cupboard naughty treats that I’d so missed, that would also be kinder to the environment and to animals, but still give you the feeling of having a secret pleasure — and so Cornwall's Chocolate Cove was born. “I make it all from scratch (I don’t buy the buttons and melt them down) so this gives me the opportunity to change up the ingredients. I use organic, raw cacao (which has reportedly more antioxidants than blueberries), organic coconut sugar which has the same GI as chickpeas (so it

Photos by Cornwall’s Chocolate Cove

“The main difference between ‘normal’ chocolate and raw chocolate is that the cacao beans that I use have not been roasted,” says Emily Collett, founder of As Raw As, based near Somerton, in Somerset. “The proper term for ‘raw’ chocolate is ‘unroasted’ chocolate because of this fact. To be classed as ‘raw’ means a food must not have been heated above 46˚C.

in anti-oxidants — naturally lifting your spirits! By keeping the entire process at low temperatures these wonderful health benefits are not heated out as is the case in ‘normal’ chocolate.”

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Photo by As Raw As

The Drill Hall in St Ives has been brilliant as I consistently get instant feedback when people try the tasters (carried out in a very Covid-safe way),” she says. “The comments I’ve often had have been ‘…better than Booja Booja’ (very embarrassingly, this brought tears of joy to my eyes as I used to love Booja Booja), ‘I don’t like vegan chocolate but this is amazing’, ‘it’s not bitter like normal dark chocolate’, ‘I don’t like fudge but this is incredible’ and the best one was by Joanna Lumley who said, ‘the best slabs of utterly fabulous chocolate that I have EVER eaten.’ I’ve probably set expectations really high now, but the best solution is to come into the shop and try for yourself, or order online.”

doesn’t spike your blood sugar) and organic cacao butter (which studies have shown is cholesterol neutral) and with the ever popular Truffley Fudge, I again use organic raw cacao butter, coconut sugar and then a base of ground nuts for all of the extra protein and minerals. For certain flavours, like the Raspberry & Baobab, I also use baobab which is the fruit from the huge African baobab tree and when this is dried and ground up, it has a zesty taste and is full of vitamin C!”

grow the cocoa beans. It also helps to preserve the rain forests,” says Emily. “Good quality chocolate costs more for a very good reason... it supports the whole supply chain, taking care to create ethical chocolate for the farmers, their community, economy and environment. Being as environmentally conscious as possible is very important to my business ethos and I also support onetreeplanted.org so every time you buy any chocolate from me, you are helping to reforest our wonderful planet.”

Emily agrees that choosing high quality ingredients is key.

Caring for the environment is also a key element of the ethos at Cornwall’s Chocolate Cove. “I’m also very mindful of the environment and animals so the raw cacao is sourced from ethical organic farms who treat workers fairly with hours, conditions and pay,” says Judy. “The card packaging is recyclable, printed locally and part of the Woodland Carbon Scheme; the inner sleeve is made from plants not plastic; everything is vegan — so no dairy — as well as being palm oil free, soya free and cane sugar free; and three of the chocolates carry donations supporting three charities (the Cinnamon Trust, Viva! And The Born Free Foundation).”

“The quality of the ingredients and where they come from are of paramount importance to me,” she says. “The chocolate that I make is both free from dairy and refined sugars. The Peruvian cacao that I use is of the Criolla variety and is considered to be ‘the king of cacao’ because it is the most ancient and produces high quality beans of fine flavour and aromas. It is produced by small organic farmers with minimal possible processing, applying low fermentation and low temperature without roasting.”

Environmental factors

It seems that raw chocolate isn’t just better for our health, but also better for the world around us too. “Buying quality chocolate helps support local communities and the farmers who

A matter of taste

There’s no doubt, then, that raw chocolate certainly has some great credentials when it comes to health and the environment. But when it comes to taste, can raw chocolate hold its own against the big hitters? Judy certainly thinks so, and says that her customers agree. “Having the little shop in

Raw chocolate also lends itself brilliantly to all kinds of other flavours which can be used to add texture and sweetness, as well as some fun! “I only use natural and organic ingredients for flavouring my chocolates,” says Emily. “Some of them being fresh orange, raspberry, ginger, mint, banana and also beetroot! (My Raspberry Beetroot flavour has travelled up Everest!) All of the nuts and seeds that I use have also been activated, which means that they are easier to digest and therefore you can absorb the nutrients more efficiently. So, all in all a better way to enjoy your chocolate treats!” Judy loves experimenting with different flavour combinations too. “I love making very distinctive flavour combinations as I want people to have a journey and a real experience of pleasure as they bite their way through the chocolate,” she says. “I think about what flavours I’d love in my life and make those, so in terms of combinations, I’ve made them so I love them. But I used to do a couple of wild cards which some people also absolutely loved but were a little unusual for others: Clove, Cinnamon & Ginger or Seeds of Kerala and the Moroccan Spice, Toasted Hazelnut & Rosemary… The most popular chocolates are difficult to say, as just as I’m thinking the Raspberry & Baobab, Peanut & Caramel and Freshly Ground Coffee are the bestsellers, I’ll suddenly get lots of demands for the Salty Cracked Pepper or the Orange & Cinnamon. The Peanut & Caramel Truffley Fudge and the Sour Cherry Truffley Fudge are always flying out the door and I think the new Vegan Raw Cookie Dough might be the same.”

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Labour of love

Producing such wonderful creations is no quick feat however. “The chocolate that I make is stone-ground for a minimum of 24 hours — normally nearer 36 hours and this creates a beautifully smooth chocolate,” says Emily. “I then age this from anything between a week to a few months to bring out the natural flavour of the cacao bean. It is then hand tempered — to stabilise the chocolate and give it that lovely ‘snap’ ( I have been known to use a hairdryer to help with this stage!). The chocolate is hand-poured into the various moulds that I use and then packed by hand in fully home compostable packets or recyclable truffle boxes covered in paper made from cacao shells.” “Making chocolate from scratch takes time — you can’t rush it,” continues Judy. “So I understand why some chocolate businesses buy the buttons, melt them down and reshape them — but that’s not my thing as I always want to maintain using healthier ingredients and give each batch the care, attention and focus that it needs. “I love making chocolate — the fact that it does take time and attention is very meditative. I find the ritual of the process incredibly calming and while blending the flavours, time loses all meaning as I get completely immersed in a world of chocolate. I also get great pleasure from watching people tasting — seeing their faces light up, their joy, their loyalty and the pleasure it gives them knowing they’re having a healthier version of something they love.”

Find out more AS RAW AS asrawas.com

CORNWALL’S CHOCOLATE COVE cornwallschocolatecove.com

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This recipe is taken from Knoops Chocolate Recipes through the Day, £20, knoops.co.uk

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TRIPLE LAYER CHOCOLATE CAKE The ultimate showstopper for any celebration or special day. This beautiful cake brings back fond memories of Sunday afternoons with my mother and grandmother, a freshly-baked cake in pride of place on the table for the whole family to share. SERVES 12

FOR THE CAKES 400g 70% dark chocolate flakes 400g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing the tins 300g golden syrup 8 eggs 100g unrefined caster sugar 400g plain flour, sifted 150g ground almonds 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda Pinch of salt 6 tbsp milk FOR THE GANACHE 700g 54% milk chocolate flakes 600ml double cream NOTE: This makes enough to fill, top and ice the sides of the cake. If you just want to fill and top the cake, make two-thirds of this quantity

1 Preheat oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Grease three 20cm round cake tins.

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2 Melt chocolate, butter and syrup in a pan over a low heat, stirring to combine. Whisk eggs with sugar in a large bowl until pale and mousse-like. Then add the melted chocolate mixture, whisking until everything is fully incorporated. Fold in the flour, almonds, bicarbonate of soda and salt. Finally fold in the milk to form a smooth batter. 3 Divide the cake batter between the three tins and bake in the centre of the oven for 25-30 minutes. The cake is done when a skewer comes out clean. Cool the cakes on a wire rack in their tins. 4 Now prepare the ganache. Place the milk chocolate flakes in a heatproof bowl. Heat the cream until just steaming, but do not allow to simmer. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate, and with small brisk movements, starting in the centre of the bowl, stir to combine. When the ganache is smooth leave to cool for about 30 minutes, until firm enough to spread. 5 Once the cakes are cool and the ganache firm, place the first cake on your serving plate. Spread one large spoonful of ganache across the top, then stack another cake carefully on top. Repeat until you have all three cakes stacked up and covered in ganache. Then take the remaining ganache and spread it carefully over the sides and top of the stacked cakes. 6 Slice, and enjoy.

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SOURDOUGH

The rise of

sourdough The popularity of this slow-fermented loaf is showing no signs of slowing…

t’s one of the most ancient methods of leavening a loaf. But until, perhaps, a decade or so ago, sourdough seemed to have fallen out of favour and instead, ready-sliced, mass-produced loaves, ready to grab off the supermarket shelves became many shoppers’ daily bread of choice. Now though, this slow-fermented loaf is having something of a renaissance, appearing on menus (these days, is it even a proper brunch without smashed avo on sourdough?) and shop shelves all over the place. And this rise in popularity is showing no signs of slowing any time soon. But what is it that makes sourdough quite so special?

Something special

Suzanne Hiscott, Director (and baker!) at the Cornish Sourdough Bakery in Launceston, believes that there’s a few reasons behind our love affair with sourdough. “The long fermentation process, and the time that goes into making sourdough creates a depth of flavour within the bread that I think makes it the best you will ever taste,” she says. “People are realising that there’s a lot of mass-produced food on the market, and now they are making healthier choices,” she continues. “Sourdough is the way we used to make bread in ancient times, and it was only really in the 50s that things changed. Additives and that sort of thing started to be added to the flour, and it’s no coincidence that since then people started having more and more intolerances to bread. Sometimes people think they are gluten intolerant, but actually they are just intolerant to the modern way of making this wonderful food.” (This could be because in the sourdough process, gluten is broken down in a way that just doesn’t occur in yeasted bakes. It’s also worth noting that sourdough produces a lower surge in blood sugar than other breads.) “We all know that during the Covid-19 lockdowns people started making their own bread,” adds Suzanne. “And I think that also made people realise, especially in rural areas, that there’s a convenience factor to making their own bread. There are no artificial additives and preservatives in sourdough, but the fermentation process produces lactic acid which acts as a natural preservative so sourdough actually lasts very well.”

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SOURDOUGH

Many forms

When most people think of sourdough, it’s usually an image of a rounded loaf, with a crisp, crackly crust. But sourdough is so much more than that. Although we tend to use the term “sourdough” to mean the type of bread, it actually refers to the method, in which a “starter” of combined flour and water is fermented over several days with regular additions of flour and water by the wild yeasts and lactobacilli naturally present in ground grain. This starter is then added to the dough, which is then left to rise for several hours, and it is this which creates the characteristic tangy taste. “Sourdough can be all kinds of products,” explains Suzanne. “It is great as pizza dough, or can be croissants, or brioche. Basically, you can take any yeast recipe and adapt it to sourdough. The only difference is time. Yeast reacts very quickly while sourdough is a longer process. “You can try using different flours, such as spelt, and you can experiment with different flavours too. You can add dried herbs or seaweed into the dry ingredients, or add wet ingredients, like fruit, during the fermentation process. Or you can just add different flavours when you are shaping your loaf, just before you put it in the proving basket. The advantage of that method is that you can just make one batch of dough!”

You might be forgiven for thinking that producing bread with so many seemingly magical qualities is a task beyond the capabilities of a mortal baker. But although there is undoubtedly a skill to baking a cracking sourdough (as there is with any type of bread, to be fair) it’s perhaps not as difficult as you might think. The first thing you’ll need though, is a starter. And once you have one, if you keep feeding and maintaining it, it can last and last. Some bakers sell starters, but it’s easy enough to make your own. “It’s easy to do,” says Suzanne. “All it takes is some flour, water and a bit of time and tinkering. Stone-ground flour is best as it is milled at a lower temperature which maintains more of the natural bacteria. Once you have a starter you can just use a bit, then refeed it. It’s a very useful tool to have in your fridge.” Find a step-by-step guide to growing your own starter on page 31. If you want to learn from the masters, The Cornish Sourdough Bakery run Sourdough Masterclasses. Find out more at www.cornishsourdoughbakery.co.uk.

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 29

Photos by Cornish Sourdough Bakery.

How is it done?

SOURDOUGH

APPLE SPELT SOURDOUGH BAKE WITH CINNAMON BUTTER Recipe by Vanessa Kimbell: "A recipe that can easily be adapted to use other fruit and spices. For example, I use peaches paired with cardamom in early summer." MAKES 2

MIX 1 In a large bowl, whisk together 360g of the water and the sourdough starter. Add the flour and salt, and use a strong spatula to vigorously mix your dough for about 2 minutes. It will form a stiff ball of dough with no dry flour left. Leave to rest for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, refresh the remaining starter in your jar and set aside.

500g organic stone-ground wholegrain spelt flour

2 Mix in the remaining 30g water using the bassinage technique. The liquid needs to be fully incorporated into the dough. Cover and leave the dough to rest for another 30 minutes.

10g fine sea salt

PROVE

Butter, ghee or coconut oil, for greasing

3 Grease 2 x 20cm, 4cm deep cake tins and line with baking parchment. Divide the dough between the tins. Spray a little olive oil over the surface of each loaf. Cover and leave to prove on the kitchen table overnight.

2 x 20cm round tins required 390g water at 24˚C 100g bubbly, lively starter

Olive oil spray 4 large red apples 2 heaped tbsp soft brown sugar 1 tsp ground cinnamon 30g salted butter, cut into 1cm dice

WELLNESS FACTOR This recipe includes spelt flour for fibre, apples, which have been shown to help with maintaining a diverse gut microbiome, and cinnamon, which can help reduce levels of inflammation in the body.

30 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

BAKE 4 The next morning, the dough will have risen to almost the top of the tins. Preheat your oven to 220˚C/Gas Mark 7 for 30 minutes. 5 Slice the apples in half and remove the cores, then cut each half into 4 or 5 slices. Gently arrange these slices over the top of the dough in each tin, forming concentric circles. Don’t push

the slices into the dough because it is delicate at this stage and you want to keep all the air in it. Sprinkle the sugar and cinnamon over the apple slices and scatter the cubes of butter evenly across the top. Spray the loaves lightly with olive oil — just enough to protect the apple slices from burning. 6 Reduce the oven temperature to 200˚C/Gas Mark 6 and bake for 30-35 minutes. Every oven is slightly different, so check your loaves towards the end of the baking time and take them out of the oven as soon as they are baked. Leave to cool in the tins for 5 minutes before removing from the tins and transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. Your starter should now be ready to put in the fridge until you next want to prepare it for baking. 7 Once cool, store in a tin, wrapped in greaseproof paper. These are best eaten on the day they’re made, but if not, enjoy within 2 days. This recipe is taken from 10-Minute Sourdough: Breadmaking for Real Life by Vanessa Kimbell, published by Kyle Books (£18.99)

SOURDOUGH

Get started YOU WILL NEED: Approximately 650g strong white flour and 650ml water.

DAY 1 In a bowl, mix together 50g strong white flour with 50ml water to make a thick batter, using your hand. Leave uncovered in your kitchen for 10-12 hours, or overnight. DAY 2 Make the first ‘feed’ by mixing together 50g strong white flour with 50ml water. Add this to the original bowl of flour and water and mix thoroughly with your hand. Leave uncovered in your kitchen. DAY 3 Discard 100g of the batter. Make the second ‘feed’ by mixing together 100g strong white flour with 100ml water. Mix thoroughly into the starter with your hand. Leave uncovered in your kitchen. DAY 4 Discard 150g of the batter. Make the third ‘feed’ by mixing together 100g strong white flour with 100ml water. Mix thoroughly into

The experts at Lakeland have shared this step-by-step guide to making and maintaining a sourdough starter

the starter with your hand. You should by now see that the mixture is beginning to ferment, becoming light and bubbly, with a pleasant sour smell. Leave uncovered in your kitchen. DAY 5 Discard 200g of the batter. Make the fourth ‘feed’ by mixing together 150g strong white flour with 150ml water. Mix thoroughly into the starter with your hand. Leave uncovered in your kitchen. DAY 6 Discard 250g of the batter. Make the fifth ‘feed’ by mixing together 200g strong white flour with 200ml water. Mix thoroughly into the starter with your hand. Leave uncovered in your kitchen. DAY 7 Your starter should be ready to use — it should be bubbly and light, with a pleasantly sour, vinegary smell. If necessary, leave for another day or two, following the procedure for Day 2 each day.

HOW TO KEEP YOUR STARTER GOING Once your starter’s ready, it’s good to use in sourdough recipes — these will always state how much of the starter you need to use. When you’ve removed the amount of starter needed for your recipe, cover the rest and refrigerate, then feed it once every week, with a mixture of 50g strong white flour and 50ml water. And when you want to make more sourdough bread or pizza, feed the starter again the night before with 150g strong white flour and 150ml water. Keep it refrigerated, but remove from the fridge about 4 hours before you start baking to get the starter lively again.

Recipe by Lakeland (lakeland.co.uk)

Handmade sourdough breads, pastries & more. Retail, wholesale & bespoke enquiries welcome.

www.cornishsourdoughbakery.co.uk

01579 683031

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 31

SOURDOUGH

Sourdough

troubleshooting Sourdough expert Vanessa Kimbell solves some common baking problems. MY SOURDOUGH IS NOT RISING ENOUGH Ensure that your starter is lively and bubbly when you mix the dough. If it is not at its peak, there won’t be enough microbial activity to allow your dough to rise. If it is not at its peak, there won’t be enough microbial activity to allow your dough to rise. If your starter is active but your dough is still not rising, try increasing the temperature of the water slightly (by 1-2˚C) or placing the dough in a warmer environment to prove. The other possible reason is that the flour you are using needs more water — this might be because it contains a lot of fibre or protein.

MY LOAF IS STICKING TO THE TIN Be generous with the fat, and dust the tin with plenty of flour, seeds or rolled oats. A quicker and more reliable method is to line with baking parchment.

MY BAKE IS OVERBAKED OR UNDERBAKED Every oven is slightly different, so I recommend using baking times as a guide. Check your bake 5-10 minutes before the end of the baking, but be prepared to bake for longer if needed.

This extract is taken from 10-Minute Sourdough, Breadmaking for Real Life by Vanessa Kimbell, £18.99, Kyle Books.

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SOURDOUGH

MUSHROOM TRAYBAKE

MIX

5 Drizzle the olive oil down the sides of the

A traybake that helps boost your immune system so it produces antibodies to fight disease.

1 In a large bowl, whisk together 350g of the water and the sourdough starter. Refresh the remaining starter in your jar and put to one side.

dough before putting it in the oven. As you

2 Add the flours and salt to the bowl and mix vigorously using a strong spatula for about 2 minutes. It will form a stiff ball. Leave to rest for 30 minutes, then mix in the remaining 10-20g water using the bassinage technique. This should take less than 1 minute. Leave to rest for a further 30 minutes.

throw a little water or some ice cubes into the

PROVE

have a beautiful, burnished golden crust.

3 Grease and line a 23cm square tin with baking parchment. Arrange a few of the sliced mushrooms in the base of the tin. Place the dough in the tin and lightly press it outwards to reach the sides. Top with the remaining sliced mushrooms, then cover the tin and leave to prove on the kitchen table overnight.

7 Remove from the oven and leave to set in

MAKES 1 LARGE TRAYBAKE

360-370g water at 27˚C 100g bubbly, lively starter 400g organic white flour (13% protein) 100g organic stoneground wholegrain flour (11.5% protein) 10g fine sea salt Butter, ghee or coconut oil, for greasing 250g mushrooms, sliced 1 tbsp olive oil, for drizzling

WELLNESS FACTOR "Research shows that production of at least some antibodies can be impaired if we are stressed or lacking in certain nutrients. But mushrooms may hold the key (or at least one of the keys) to addressing this problem. One study found that people who ate white button mushrooms produced significantly higher levels of one of the important antibodies." Dr Miguel Toribio-Mateas

BAKE 4 By morning, your dough will have increased in size by at least 50 per cent. Preheat your oven to 220˚C/Gas Mark 7 for 30 minutes and place a shallow baking tray in the bottom of the oven.

place the bread in the oven, reduce the temperature to 180˚C/Gas Mark 4 and carefully hot tray at the bottom. Close the door quickly to trap the steam this creates. 6 Bake for about 45-50 minutes. Everyone’s oven is slightly different, so check your bake towards the end of the baking time: it should

the tin for about 5 minutes before removing from the tin and leaving to cool completely on a wire rack. Your starter should now be ready to put in the fridge until you next want to prepare it for baking. 8 This is best eaten on the day it’s made — it’s perfect for supper. This recipe is taken from 10-Minute Sourdough: Breadmaking for Real Life by Vanessa Kimbell, published by Kyle Books (£18.99)

Sourdough or "sourfaux"? The experts at Denby share four warning signs to look out for to ensure that you’re buying the real deal SWEETENER IS USED Sugar and sweeteners are important ingredients for many other types of bread. As well as giving the crust that nice golden colour and helping the bread retain moisture, these ingredients also act as a food for the yeast. The yeast converts the sugar and sweeteners into carbon dioxide, which therefore helps the bread rise quicker. However, genuine sourdough has a natural fermentation process, so yeast, and therefore sugar, is not required for it to rise.

A LONG EXPIRY DATE Sugar and sweeteners also act as a preservative, so without it, the bread will have a shorter shelf life. If you see a sourdough with an expiry date that's weeks away, this will almost certainly be a sourfaux.

YEAST IS IN THE INGREDIENTS LIST While yeast is a key ingredient for most other forms of bread, it's not necessary for sourdough loafs. This is because fermented flour is used, which allows bacteria and yeast to grow naturally when left for enough time (Spoon University). Instead of yeast, a genuine sourdough will have one of the following listed: "sourdough starter", "mother culture", "starter culture", or "starter".

IT CONTAINS VINEGAR Sourdough gets its distinctive tart flavour from the acids which are produced in the fermentation process. While this is a difficult taste to replicate, this doesn't stop some from trying. A sourfaux will often use vinegar to imitate this tangy flavour, so keep an eye out for it in the ingredients list. denbypottery.com

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 33

IN SEASON

hello pumpkin No, pumpkins aren’t just for carving…

umpkins are all too often just used to make Jack o’lanterns come Halloween, but actually these fruit (yes, they are a fruit) are very tasty. And, even better, almost every part of the pumpkin — from the skin and pulp, to the seeds, and even the flowers — are not only edible, but pretty darn delicious. When it comes to pumpkins, it’s definitely not a case of bigger is better — or not if you want to eat them, at least. More petite pumpkins tend to be tastier, with a richer, sweeter flavour. They work well in both sweet and savoury dishes, and pair especially well with a bit of spice, whether that’s cinnamon in a sweet dish, or chilli in something savoury. And they are easier to prepare, a quality

34 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

which shouldn’t be overlooked because this can be a bit of a faff. There are a few ways to make it easier though. You could cut it in half, roast it, then scoop out the soft sweet flesh (much like you might do with a butternut squash). The cutting might take some serious effort though so work in sections until you reach the bottom. You might even need to hammer the knife in with a rolling pin to get it started. Or, if you’re looking for a neat dice then try cutting into wedges (like a melon!) as this will make it easier to remove the skin and cut as you’ll have a flat edge to rest it on. Like most squash, pumpkins store well. If you keep it in a cool, dark, well-ventilated place it will last for several weeks.

IN SEASON

PUMPKIN FRITTERS WITH ROMESCO These fritters are simple to prepare and the romesco is a delicious accompaniment, but can be substituted for a simple mayonnaise mixed with paprika and garlic. We’ve chosen to use a mix of nuts in the romesco rather than using just almonds, and included cashews which add a creamy taste to the sauce. SERVES 2

FOR THE FRITTERS

4 Finally, pulse all the ingredients in a food

150g potato

processor. You can make a smooth or

300g pumpkin flesh 1 red onion 1 tsp salt

5 To make the fritters, start by grating the

2 eggs

potato and pumpkin, then very finely slice the

½ tsp black pepper, ground

red onion and toss together with salt. Allow

½ tsp garam masala

to sit for 20 minutes.

3 tbsp gram flour 1 tsp smoked paprika

7 Squeeze the salted veg in a clean tea towel

½ tsp baking powder

and stir into the batter.

FOR THE ROMESCO 2 red peppers

1 First, make the romesco. Heat the oven to the hottest it will go.

Handful of walnuts, almonds and hazelnuts, toasted 2 tbsp red or sherry wine vinegar 2 tbsp olive oil Pinch of paprika Salt and black pepper, to taste

6 Mix the rest of the ingredients to a batter.

Bunch of parsley, chopped Vegetable oil, for frying

2 garlic cloves, puréed

chunky sauce.

2 Rub the peppers with oil, season with salt then roast until well browned. 3 Remove and place in a bowl, covering with cling film to steam the peppers and help the skins slip off. Skin and deseed.

8 Heat the oil in a frying pan on a medium heat. Spoon dollops of the mix and fry on each side for around 4-5 minutes until browned. Make sure they are cooked through as you don't want the middle to be raw; bake in the oven if needs be. Recipe by Riverford (www.riverford.co.uk)

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 35

IN SEASON

PUMPKIN MADELEINES WITH PUMPKIN CUSTARD AND CINNAMON MERINGUE Unusual and slightly long winded but totally worth it. The meringue isn't necessary but adds an impressive finish. All the elements can be made individually if you don't want to tackle the whole recipe. MAKES 8

FOR THE CUSTARD 500g pumpkin flesh 50g sugar 5 egg yolks ½ pint cream FOR THE MERINGUE 100g egg whites 130g caster sugar 70g soft dark brown sugar Pinch of cinnamon FOR THE MADELEINES 225g butter, soft 100g caster sugar 1 egg 200g plain flour 100g soft dark brown sugar 200g pumpkin purée 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp baking powder 2 tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp salt

36 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

FOR THE CUSTARD 1 Start by making a pumpkin purée. Cook the pumpkin flesh in water until soft. Strain and purée in a food processor until smooth. Pass through a sieve and chill. 2 Once the mix is chilled, pre-heat an oven to 120°C/Gas Mark ½. 3 Beat the sugar and egg yolks until thick and creamy. Warm the cream over a medium heat until it just comes to the boil then whisk into the egg yolk mix, followed by 200g of the pumpkin purée. 4 Strain into a jug and fill four ramekins or one bigger dish. Place the dish/ramekins into a roasting tray and add enough warm water to cover half the height of the dish/ramekins. 5 Bake for 25/30 minutes until there is a slight wobble in the middle. Remove and chill in the fridge. Top with the meringue (recipe below) or top with sugar then blow torch for a crème brûlée finish.

FOR THE MERINGUE 1 In a metal round-bottom bowl combine the egg whites, both sugars and the cinnamon.

2 Place over a simmering pan of water and whisk continuously until the sugars have dissolved. The mixture should be warm if you dip your finger in and it will still be liquid at this stage. Using an electric whisk, whisk until thick, glossy and cooled. 3 Top the custard(s) and either blow torch to finish or brown under a grill. Any left over meringue can be baked at 90°C for 1 ½ - 2 hours until dry.

FOR THE MADELEINES 1 Pre-heat the oven to 180°C/ Gas Mark 4. Grease a madeleine tray with butter and dust with flour. 2 Cream the butter and both sugars for around 10 minutes. 3 Add the egg and a spoonful of flour to help it mix in comfortably, then fold in the rest of the ingredients. 4 Spoon the mix into the tray and bake for 10/12 minutes. Once cooked allow to sit for 2 minutes then remove from the tray and place on a cooling rack. 5 Serve with the custard and meringue. Recipe by Riverford (www.riverford.co.uk)

IN SEASON

MINI PUMPKIN CAKES WITH COCONUT CREAM FROSTING These mini pumpkin cakes with coconut cream frosting made with Clarence Court Burford Brown eggs are the perfect autumnal dessert recipe. Served inside mini pumpkins, these unique and delicious pumpkin cakes are sure to impress. SERVES 9-12

9-12 mini pumpkins 260g wholewheat flour 3 tsp baking powder 1 tsp salt 1½ tsp ground cinnamon 2 tsp pumpkin pie spice 240ml coconut oil, melted 4 Clarence Court Burford Brown eggs 220g brown sugar 550g pumpkin purée 1½ tsp vanilla extract Coconut cream for frosting Pecan nuts, to garnish

1 Pre-heat the oven to 170˚C/ Gas Mark 3. 2 Meanwhile, cut off the tops of

the mini pumpkins and remove the seeds. In order to create a bowl, you may need to remove some of the flesh. 3 Mix the flour, sugar, baking powder, spices and salt in a bowl. 4 In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs and add the melted coconut oil, followed by the vanilla extract and pumpkin purée. 5 Add the two mixtures together and mix thoroughly until combined. 6 Arrange the pumpkins on a baking try and carefully fill the pumpkin bowls with the cake batter. 7 Place in the oven and bake for 30 minutes. 8 Once baked, let the pumpkins cool off before decorating them. 9 Meanwhile, whisk the coconut cream to make the frosting. 10 Using a piping bag, top each pumpkin cake with the coconut cream and sprinkle with some pecan nuts. Recipe by AlphaFoodie for Clarence Court Eggs (clarencecourt.co.uk)

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 37

IN SEASON

King cabbage School dinners have given this brassica a bad rap, but don’t dismiss it just yet

nyone who has ever had school dinners will remember the rank smell of overcooked cabbage that permeated the dining hall, and the pile of limp, slimy leaves that would be slopped onto your plate. No wonder, then, that so many people recoil in horror at the thought of cooking with cabbage. With a light touch, however, the cabbage is a wonderful vegetable. And with so many varieties available, and the flavour varying from type-to-type — ranging from savoury to gently sweet — there’s bound to be something beautiful to brighten your plate.

BRAISED SAVOY CABBAGE WITH PANCETTA Cabbage and salty pork are natural bedfellows and this easy recipe is a great way to enjoy them together. It's particularly good with crinkly savoy cabbage, but any green or white cabbage will do. If you don't have pancetta use bacon instead. This is good with sausages or pork chops and mashed potatoes mixed with a teaspoon of wholegrain mustard. SERVES 4

25g butter 250g pancetta, cut into 2cm dice 1 onion, finely diced 2 carrots, peeled and finely diced 2 celery sticks, finely diced 1 bay leaf

The round, crinkle-leafed Savoy cabbage and the pale, lozenge-shaped Chinese leaf are considered to be two of the best to cook with, while a red cabbage will not only add flavour, but a dramatic splash of colour to a dish. No matter which variety you use however, the key is to keep the cooking time brief to ensure that you get the very best flavour and also avoid the less-than-pleasant school dinner aroma from seeping all over the house. Try stir-frying a Savoy cabbage with garlic, ginger and chilli, or thinly slice white cabbage and use in salads or slaws.

6 sage leaves, finely shredded 1 medium Savoy cabbage, outer leaves removed then quartered 500ml chicken stock

1 Melt the butter in a heavy-based casserole style pan, one with a lid. Add the pancetta and fry, stirring now and then, until browned. 2 Turn the heat to low, add the onion, carrots and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes (this helps render the fat in the pancetta down). 3 Add the bay leaf, sage and cabbage wedges. Pour in the stock and season with salt and pepper. Bring up to a simmer, cover and cook for about 20 minutes, until the cabbage is tender. 4 Check the seasoning before serving. Recipe by Riverford (riverford.co.uk)

38 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

The only exception to the quick cooking rule is red cabbage, which is just delicious slow braised with spices to make a rich and satisfying side dish. When choosing your cabbage, look for bright, crisp leaves, and avoid any with holes (where a pesky insect might have burrowed its way in). Be wary too if it looks like outer leaves have been stripped away as it’s a common trick by some retailers to make older stock look fresher than it really is. Cabbages should be stored in the fridge — either in their original packaging, or in a loosely tied plastic bag.

IN SEASON

PORK AND CABBAGE ROLLS SERVES 4

4 boneless pork cutlets (escalopes) use fairly thin ones and trim off any excess fat 4 large Savoy cabbage leaves 4 slices serrano, Parma or other airdried ham 2 eggs 2 tbsp milk 100g dry breadcrumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper Oil for frying, e.g. vegetable or sunflower

1 Place the cutlets between a sheet of clingfilm and use a rolling pin to bash the cutlets to ½cm thick. In a large pan of boiling water (don't add salt or the leaves will lose their green colour), cook the cabbage leaves for 4 minutes. Drain, plunge into a bowl of cold water to refresh, then drain again. 2 Cut out the v-shaped stalk, keeping the whole leaf intact. Cut each leaf in half lengthways. Lay a cutlet on your chopping board or

RED CABBAGE AND BEETROOT ON WINTER SALAD WITH HAZELNUT DUKKAH This vibrant coloured salad is best served warm but is also good the next day. Dukkah is a mixture of spices, nuts and seeds that is popular in Egypt. You can make double the dukkah recipe and save half in a jar for later use. SERVES 4-6

FOR THE WARM SALAD 1 small red cabbage 4 medium beetroot 1 red onion Juice of ½ a small lemon 1 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper Baby salad leaves, rocket or watercress FOR THE DUKKAH 20g hazelnuts, chopped roughly 2 tbsp sesame seeds 2 tsp cumin seeds 2 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp thyme leaves or dried thyme 1 tsp paprika ½ tsp each of salt and pepper

work surface. Place a slice of ham on top, then 2 pieces of cabbage leaf. Roll up tightly and secure with a cocktail stick or two. Repeat with the other cutlets. Place on a baking tray and chill for 10 minutes (this helps keep the shape). 3 Beat the eggs and mix with the milk in a flattish bowl. Have the breadcrumbs ready in a similar bowl. Remove the cocktail sticks and dip pork rolls in the egg mixture and then in the breadcrumbs to coat. 4 Heat 2cm of oil in a wide deep pan to 180˚C/Gas Mark 4 (use a deep fat fryer if you have one). Fry the rolls for 6-8 minutes, turning, until the pork is cooked through and the breadcrumbs are golden. Drain on kitchen paper. Alternatively bake in the oven at 190'C/Gas 5 (keep the cocktail sticks in if baking) on a non-stick tray until golden brown and cooked through. Cut in half at an angle to serve. Recipe by Riverford (riverford.co.uk)

1 Preheat the oven to 180˚C/Gas Mark 4. 2 Cut the cabbage in half, remove the white core and then cut the rest into 1cm slices. Chop the beetroot in half and then into 8 wedges. Cut the red onion in half, remove the skin and cut into thin wedges. 3 Place the cabbage, onion and beetroot in a large roasting dish with the olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper and roast for 30-40 minutes, stirring halfway through, until the beetroot is tender. 4 While the vegetables are cooking you can make the dukkah. Heat a frying pan and add the coriander seeds. Move them around for 30 seconds then add the cumin, sesame and hazelnuts. Dry-fry the spices and nuts for a minute or two until they smell fragrant and the cumin starts to ‘pop’. 5 Grind the spices and nuts with the thyme, paprika and salt and pepper in a pestle and mortar or small food processor. 6 Sprinkle the Dukkah over the roasted vegetables and give them a toss so they are well coated. Place the salad leaves on a large serving dish and arrange the roasted red cabbage and beetroot on top.

Recipe by Jo Ingleby for The Community Farm (thecommunityfarm.co.uk)

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 39

IN SEASON

Quince Charming This winter fruit is full of possibilities…

he quince is a funny old fruit. Looks-wise, it’s a lumpy version of something between and apple and a pear, with a smooth, golden yellow skin. And when ripe, it has a gorgeously, sweet and heady aroma which is especially strong if the fruit is left on a sunny windowsill. But despite the alluring scent, in its raw state the quince is tough and sour, making it one of the few fruit that it’s no fun to chew on raw. Once heated though, it’s a different story. The hard, bitter flesh quickly softens to an almost jelly-like consistency, and the colour transforms to a bright pinky-orange. So how best to use it? The quince is full of pectin, which makes it ideal for jams and preserves. Indeed, if you’ve encountered quince before it’s highly likely that it’s in the guise of the famous membrillo — a kind of firm paste,

HONEY BAKED QUINCES SERVES 4

2 quinces (about 700g) 1 lemon 300ml water 10g honey 80g caster sugar

1 Preheat your oven to 150°C/ Gas Mark 2. 2 Use a peeler to pull 3 long strips of zest from the lemon. Add it to a pan with the water, honey and sugar. Warm gently until the sugar has dissolved. 3 Meanwhile, cut each quince into quarters. Rub the cut surfaces with some lemon juice to stop them browning. Use a dessert spoon to remove any seeds from the core. Do not peel them.

40 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

frequently served with cheese in Spain. Quince can also be substituted for (or used in tandem with) its apple and pear cousins in many recipes, such as crumbles or tarts — just remember that the quince will take longer to cook. And it can work in savoury dishes too. With its somewhat sweet-and-sour flavour, roasted quince is a wonderful plate-fellow for meats like pork, lamb, duck or even game. Its versatility isn’t the quince’s only noteworthy characteristic either. It will last far longer than most fruits — at least a month simply stored at room temperature. When it comes to prepping your quince, you’ll first need to wash off the downy fuzz that covers many of them. After that, treat it much the same as you would an apple or a pear — cut into quarters and remove the core, then slice or cut into chunks.

4 Place the quinces into a snug-fitting roasting tray. Pour over the honey and sugar syrup. Lay some baking parchment over the quinces and then cover the tray tightly with foil. 5 Transfer to the oven and bake for 3 hours, or until the quinces are tender and deeply coloured. Remove the foil and parchment. Spoon the syrup over the top of the fruit. Turn up the heat to 180°C/ Gas Mark 4 and roast uncovered for a final 20 minutes to deepen the colour and reduce the syrup. 6 Serve warm with the sticky syrup from the roasting pan spooned over the top. Recipe by Riverford (riverford.co.uk)

IN SEASON

A LUXURY FAMILY RUN FOODIE HIDEAWAY IN DEVON INFO@LEWTRENCHARD.CO.UK

01566 783 222

Hand crafted cider bursting in flavour. Lovingly hand picked and pressed in an old press in Dorset

QUINCES POACHED IN WHITE WINE

2 Peel the quinces and cut each

The spices echo the fruit's own fragrance, but aren't essential; you could simply use the wine and sugar. These are ideal served as part of a dessert or used in a savoury context, alongside some roast pork or salty Cheddar.

the tough core and seeds with

SERVES 4

one into 8 equal wedges. Remove

wedges straight into the pan and sit the skin peelings on top — they add to the flavour but also help to keep the fruit submerged in the liquid. 3 Bring to a simmer and poach gently for about 40 mins, or until

100g sugar

tender to the tip of a knife. Allow to

1 cinnamon stick

cool in the liquid.

1 bay leaf 2 quinces (about 700g)

www.laycockcider.com

a simple v-shaped cut. Add the

1 bottle white wine

1 star anise

Visit us at our Cider Barn or shop online

4 Drain away and reserve the liquid. Discard the peelings and spices. Store the quinces covered in

1 Tip the wine into a deep saucepan and add the sugar and spices.

the liquid. Recipe by Riverford (riverford.co.uk)

laycockcider

Email: info@laycockcider.co.uk - Tel: 07730 452 426 Church Farm, Purse Caundle, Sherborne, DT9 5DY

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 41

COOKING COMPANION

Cookbook Corner

VEGAN MUG CAKES

THE FEMALE CHEF

Lottie Covell £10, Kyle Books

Clare Finney and Liz Seabrook, foreword by Sheila Dillon £28, Hoxton Mini Press

Perfect for when you need an instant indulgent treat, these fool proof vegan mug cakes require just a mug, a microwave and a few simple ingredients. From classics such as Coffee and Walnut Cake to irresistible flavour combinations such as Blackberry and Lime Upside-Down Cake, these are quick, easy bakes for every mood and occasion. This is accessible, easy baking for everyone. With tips on plant-based ingredients and the dos and don’ts of microwave baking, Vegan Mug Cakes provides all the knowhow you need to whip up delicious treats in a matter of minutes, with no waste and little washing up.

42 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

A glance at any Best Restaurant List will tell you the food scene’s infamous gender imbalance is far from solved. Women, though traditionally encouraged to cook at home, have long been much less championed in professional kitchens. And yet, within this challenging environment, many women are pioneering change — from nurturing all-female teams to shaking up the narrative of what it means to be a woman and a chef. This book celebrates those at the forefront of modern food, and the experiences that got them there, bringing together insightful interviews, original portraits and personal recipes.

HOW TO COOK: THE 100 ESSENTIAL RECIPES EVERYONE SHOULD KNOW Darina Allen £22, Kyle Books We all know cooking from scratch is healthier for our waistlines and our wallets, but pressed for time and inspiration, most of us turn to the same meals again and again. In this book, Darina Allen, of Ireland’s worldrenowned Ballymaloe Cookery School, shows how simple it is to rustle up delicious and nutritious meals using 25 of the most popular staple ingredients, from eggs and potatoes, to tomatoes, rice and pasta. With advice on shopping well, wasting less and the essential equipment every kitchen needs, Darina shares her lifetime of experience to show you how to cook good food time and time again.

LOVE LOCAL

Combining cultures Gianpero Mugano is the new head chef at The Red Church in Bristol. Gianpero, takes up the position after recently heading up the much-celebrated award-winning Bristol Italian — Pasta Loco, and having previously worked at both The Ox and Woky Ko. Here, Gianpero tells us more about what inspires him… Congrats on your new role at The Red Church. Can you tell us a bit about what to expect when we visit? A nice and welcoming atmosphere followed by a simple and fresh produce menu with South Italian and Japanese twists. When we visit The Red Church what should we order? It’s definitely worth trying our pasta fritta with ricotta, the truffle cannelloni with porcini mushrooms, and last but not least, the organic citrus miso chicken. Our miso and sake glazed aubergine is also very popular and is vegan and gluten-free. Do you have a signature dish? Ravioli filled with cow’s milk ricotta, cinnamon and sugar, with slow cooked fresh tomato sauce and Parmesan. This was one of the special recipes my beloved Nonna Angela gave to me. Where did your love of Japanese flavours come from? I’ve always been in love with the food, fashion and culture of Asia, but when I was in London I had the opportunity to work for Jon de Villa (now YUU Kitchen) at Flesh & Buns in Covent Garden. It was an amazing experience and it was then that I really fell in love with Japaneseinspired food. It was hard but I loved it! When did you know you wanted to become a chef? Half of my family back in Puglia works in hospitality and catering and my mum and my dad can cook excellent meals. I grew up surrounded by food and big family gatherings where the food was the central part, so it was natural to choose this path. I went to catering school and here I am.

Who or what inspires you? I’m inspired by my roots! I’m from Puglia in the south-east of Italy, my grandmother was from Naples and my wife is from Calabria — they inspire me a lot. But, also being an expat for more than 10 years, I’ve often got inspiration from my surroundings.

ingredients, pans and tools ready to go, weigh everything and have them placed in order of use, especially before making a cake or any other sweets. The result will be a less stressful session with way less mess to clean afterwards! theredchurch.net

Do you have any favourite local ingredients and suppliers you like to use? One of my favourites is Hugo Grocery where I buy some of the freshest Italian fruits and veg. I do also love the Bristol Sweet Mart in Easton where I find some of the best Asian products, and recently the Concious Food Co. has been bringing us some really fresh and beautiful fish from Devon, straight from the boat. Do you have any kitchen hacks you could share to help us with our cooking at home? Have your mise-en-place ready before you start your cooking session. Get out your

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 43

LITTLE COOKS

y l i r Sca delicious! These Halloween snacks are all treats and no tricks!

HALLOWEEN GINGERBREAD COOKIES MAKES 25-30

180g butter 150g golden syrup 150g black treacle 125g light brown sugar 500g plain flour 1 tbsp ground ginger ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda ¼ tsp salt 3 eggs whites 1 tsp cream of tartar 2 tbsp water A couple of squares of dark chocolate

1 Stir the flour, ginger, bicarb and salt together in a large bowl. 2 Tip the butter, sugar, treacle and golden syrup into a pan. Heat gently on the hob until melted (this is a job for a grown up) then leave to cool until still a little warm but not hot. 3 Pour the mixture into the flour bowl and mix until you have an even dough with no white bits.

7 Gather the offcuts up into a ball, roll out and repeat until you’ve used up all of your dough. Repeat the process with the next third of dough. 8 With the final third, roll out the dough, then cut out your gingerbread men with the legs of the cutter placed past the edge of the dough. This will give you your ghost shapes! 9 When you’re ready to bake, place your gingerbread in the oven for 10-12 minutes until a gorgeous golden colour. You’ll probably have to bake them in batches. 10 Allow to cool on the tray for a moment, then transfer to wire racks to cool completely. 11 To decorate, put the icing sugar, cream of tartar and egg whites in a large bowl and whisk until light and glossy. Add the water and beat again until you have a royal icing that’s just perfect for decorating. Transfer your icing to a large piping bag, and snip the very end off your bag to create a small opening. 12 To finish, melt a couple of squares of dark chocolate in the microwave and use a toothpick to give the mummies eyes and to paint detail on to the skeleton’s faces. Recipe by AO at Home (ao.com/athome)

4 Wrap in cling film and chill for an hour until firm. You can chill overnight if you wish, just take it out an hour (might take as little as half an hour on hot days) before rolling so that it has time to soften again.

DECORATING TIPS

5 Cut the dough into thirds and keep the spare thirds wrapped while you work with the first one. Roll out on a floured surface to about half a centimetre (a quarter inch) thick. Cut out as many gingerbread men as you can.

Mummies - just whiz back and forth with the icing to create bandages.

6 To avoid breaking or squashing your shapes, it’s easiest to pull away the excess before you lift your gingerbread men. Transfer them to a baking sheet lined with greaseproof paper.

44 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

Decorate your cookies in any way you like. For a spooky effect, feel free to copy the designs shown here to create skeletons, ghosts and mummies!

Ghosts - trace an outline just inside the edges of the cookie, pipe two eyes and a long, ghoulish mouth. Skeletons - the fiddliest, just take your time, starting with the skull, draw in the spine, ribs and hips, then finish with bones for the arms and legs. Dot on some toes too.

LITTLE COOKS

SPOOKY HALLOWEEN BARK This spooky Halloween chocolate bark is so easy and fun to make! Customise with your favourite Halloween sweets and be warned, it is hugely addictive 6-8 TO SHARE

400g dark chocolate, finely chopped 100g white candy melts 100g green candy melts Handful of candy googly eyes Handful of jelly Halloween spooky eyes Halloween sprinkles

1 Line a large baking tray with greaseproof paper.

5 Working quickly, pipe spirals of the candy

2 Chop the dark chocolate and place in a bowl. Microwave for 30 second bursts, stirring, until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Alternatively place bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water and allow the chocolate to gradually melt.

6 Drag a skewer through the spirals to create

3 Place the candy melts in two bowls and melt using same method. Transfer each to a piping or ziplock bag.

8 Chill in the fridge until set.

4 Spread the melted chocolate over the prepared tray.

melts over the chocolate. a marbled spiderweb effect. 7 Sprinkle the googly eyes, jelly eyes and any sprinkles you like over the chocolate while it is still wet.

9 Break into smaller pieces and enjoy!

Recipe by AO at Home (ao.com/athome)

FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 45

LITTLE COOKS

HONEY AND CEREAL HALLOWEEN MUMMIES SERVES16

150g honey 150g smooth peanut butter 200g puffed rice cereal 2 bags of white candy melts 1 box of candy eyes 16 lollipop sticks

1 Pre-line a 9 inch × 9 inch silicone square baking tray with cling film. 2 Warm the honey in a pan until it thins and begins to bubble. Remove from heat. Stir in peanut butter until thoroughly mixed together. Add the puffed rice cereal and make sure every bit is coated in the mixture. 3 Tumble the mixture out onto the pre-lined baking tray. Wet your hands and press the mixture down really hard to ensure there are no air gaps. This is really important.

46 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER

4 Allow to set for up to 2 hours in the freezer. Once set remove from freezer and allow to thaw slightly before cutting into 16 equal rectangles, place back in the freezer for a further 30 minutes.

9 Now with the remaining melted chocolate,

with baking parchment.

on the body of the treats, so you end up with

7 Dip the bottom of the lollipop in melted chocolate then insert into the shortest length of the puffed rice cereal, then cover the base with chocolate, repeat this step with all the treats then place in the fridge to set for 10 minutes.

layers to represent the mummies’ bandages.

place this into a piping bag (or you can use a sandwich bag if you don’t have one to hand) and snip the end.

10 Remove the treats from fridge then using 5 Warm the candy melts in the microwave in a the piping bag, place 2 dots in the middle in mug, 1 bag at a time. You’ll need to do this in order to stick on the eyes. 30 second bursts, stir then repeat until it’s ready 11 Then going left to right, go back and forth to be used. with the piping bag to get the mummy effect 6 Pre-line a 32cm x 22cm x 5cm baking tray

Place back in the fridge to set for a further 10 minutes. 12 Once set, remove from the fridge and place centre stage on your Halloween table for

everyone to enjoy! 8 After the sticks have adhered to the treats, you need to immerse the entire rice cereal treat Recipe by Shelina Permaloo, Masterchef UK into the mug of melted candy melt to cover 2012 Winner, for Rowse Honey the entire treat, repeat this step with all the treats then place back into the fridge to set. (www.rowsehoney.co.uk)

Foodlover Magazine - Autumn - Issue 75

Articles inside

Little Cooks

Chef'S profile

Cookbooks

PUMPKIN

BAKING MAD

QUINCE

RAW CHOCOLATE

CABBAGE

INDIAN CUISINE

COMPETITIONS