IN SEASON
King cabbage School dinners have given this brassica a bad rap, but don’t dismiss it just yet
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nyone who has ever had school dinners will remember the rank smell of overcooked cabbage that permeated the dining hall, and the pile of limp, slimy leaves that would be slopped onto your plate. No wonder, then, that so many people recoil in horror at the thought of cooking with cabbage. With a light touch, however, the cabbage is a wonderful vegetable. And with so many varieties available, and the flavour varying from type-to-type — ranging from savoury to gently sweet — there’s bound to be something beautiful to brighten your plate.
BRAISED SAVOY CABBAGE WITH PANCETTA Cabbage and salty pork are natural bedfellows and this easy recipe is a great way to enjoy them together. It's particularly good with crinkly savoy cabbage, but any green or white cabbage will do. If you don't have pancetta use bacon instead. This is good with sausages or pork chops and mashed potatoes mixed with a teaspoon of wholegrain mustard. SERVES 4
25g butter 250g pancetta, cut into 2cm dice 1 onion, finely diced 2 carrots, peeled and finely diced 2 celery sticks, finely diced 1 bay leaf
The round, crinkle-leafed Savoy cabbage and the pale, lozenge-shaped Chinese leaf are considered to be two of the best to cook with, while a red cabbage will not only add flavour, but a dramatic splash of colour to a dish. No matter which variety you use however, the key is to keep the cooking time brief to ensure that you get the very best flavour and also avoid the less-than-pleasant school dinner aroma from seeping all over the house. Try stir-frying a Savoy cabbage with garlic, ginger and chilli, or thinly slice white cabbage and use in salads or slaws.
6 sage leaves, finely shredded 1 medium Savoy cabbage, outer leaves removed then quartered 500ml chicken stock
1 Melt the butter in a heavy-based casserole style pan, one with a lid. Add the pancetta and fry, stirring now and then, until browned. 2 Turn the heat to low, add the onion, carrots and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes (this helps render the fat in the pancetta down). 3 Add the bay leaf, sage and cabbage wedges. Pour in the stock and season with salt and pepper. Bring up to a simmer, cover and cook for about 20 minutes, until the cabbage is tender. 4 Check the seasoning before serving. Recipe by Riverford (riverford.co.uk)
38 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER
The only exception to the quick cooking rule is red cabbage, which is just delicious slow braised with spices to make a rich and satisfying side dish. When choosing your cabbage, look for bright, crisp leaves, and avoid any with holes (where a pesky insect might have burrowed its way in). Be wary too if it looks like outer leaves have been stripped away as it’s a common trick by some retailers to make older stock look fresher than it really is. Cabbages should be stored in the fridge — either in their original packaging, or in a loosely tied plastic bag.
