IN SEASON
Quince Charming This winter fruit is full of possibilities…
T
he quince is a funny old fruit. Looks-wise, it’s a lumpy version of something between and apple and a pear, with a smooth, golden yellow skin. And when ripe, it has a gorgeously, sweet and heady aroma which is especially strong if the fruit is left on a sunny windowsill. But despite the alluring scent, in its raw state the quince is tough and sour, making it one of the few fruit that it’s no fun to chew on raw. Once heated though, it’s a different story. The hard, bitter flesh quickly softens to an almost jelly-like consistency, and the colour transforms to a bright pinky-orange. So how best to use it? The quince is full of pectin, which makes it ideal for jams and preserves. Indeed, if you’ve encountered quince before it’s highly likely that it’s in the guise of the famous membrillo — a kind of firm paste,
HONEY BAKED QUINCES SERVES 4
2 quinces (about 700g) 1 lemon 300ml water 10g honey 80g caster sugar
1 Preheat your oven to 150°C/ Gas Mark 2. 2 Use a peeler to pull 3 long strips of zest from the lemon. Add it to a pan with the water, honey and sugar. Warm gently until the sugar has dissolved. 3 Meanwhile, cut each quince into quarters. Rub the cut surfaces with some lemon juice to stop them browning. Use a dessert spoon to remove any seeds from the core. Do not peel them.
40 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER
frequently served with cheese in Spain. Quince can also be substituted for (or used in tandem with) its apple and pear cousins in many recipes, such as crumbles or tarts — just remember that the quince will take longer to cook. And it can work in savoury dishes too. With its somewhat sweet-and-sour flavour, roasted quince is a wonderful plate-fellow for meats like pork, lamb, duck or even game. Its versatility isn’t the quince’s only noteworthy characteristic either. It will last far longer than most fruits — at least a month simply stored at room temperature. When it comes to prepping your quince, you’ll first need to wash off the downy fuzz that covers many of them. After that, treat it much the same as you would an apple or a pear — cut into quarters and remove the core, then slice or cut into chunks.
4 Place the quinces into a snug-fitting roasting tray. Pour over the honey and sugar syrup. Lay some baking parchment over the quinces and then cover the tray tightly with foil. 5 Transfer to the oven and bake for 3 hours, or until the quinces are tender and deeply coloured. Remove the foil and parchment. Spoon the syrup over the top of the fruit. Turn up the heat to 180°C/ Gas Mark 4 and roast uncovered for a final 20 minutes to deepen the colour and reduce the syrup. 6 Serve warm with the sticky syrup from the roasting pan spooned over the top. Recipe by Riverford (riverford.co.uk)
