IN SEASON
Take a leek... Make the most of this versatile allium
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here’s a lot to be said for the humble leek. Treated gently, they can be one of the most versatile veggies in the greengrocer’s. Cooked right, (we’d recommend cooking slowly over a low heat with lots of butter) the leek becomes soft and sweet, making it perfect for all manner of dishes. Don’t be fooled though, for while the cooked leek is mild and accommodating, in its raw state it’s harsh and almost inedible. And when prepping it, you’ll need to make sure that you’ve removed any dirt or sand that’s worked its way between the leaves by washing thoroughly under running water. Choosing a good specimen is easy though. Look for fresh, white roots and bright green. It’s the white and light green parts that you’ll be using (the tougher, woody stalks have
34 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER
very little use, other than perhaps to wrap round some herbs for a bouquet garni). There are plenty of delicious ways to use a leek. It makes a good base (along with the likes of carrots, onions and celery) for soups and stews, and is perfect in all kinds of hearty, warming fayre, A leek and potato soup is, of course, a classic, but it’s brilliant in stews, bakes and gratins galore. Try adding some soft, sweet leeks to cheese on toast or, if you’re feeling a bit fancier, then leeks are also rather good in a soufflé too. Leeks are best mates with things like ham, bacon and cheese — their aromatic sweetness providing the perfect foil for saltier flavours — and they also make happy platefellows with seafood like prawns, scallops, salmon, mackerel and white fish.
LEEK AND SMOKED CHEESE MACARONI Using wholewheat macaroni and including leeks makes this easy pasta bake a little more nutritious and interesting than traditional macaroni, but just as comforting. Smoked Cheddar and leeks are a good combination of sharp and sweet, but you can play
around with the type of cheese — a piquant blue cheese also works (although might be less popular with children). SERVES 1
100g wholewheat macaroni Olive oil 100g leeks, shredded 10g butter 10g flour ½ tsp Dijon mustard 200ml milk
