Wedding Trader - issue 20

Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

SHARING OPINIONS, EXPERIENCES, VISIONS OF THE FUTURE

New chapters STARTING OVER IN THE BRIDAL BUSINESS

Brand awareness THE LABELS THAT MAKE A DIFFERENCE

ISSUE 20 • MARCH/APRIL ’20

I t’s buying time WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE BIG SHOWS

PRO SUPPOUDLY R BRITISTING BRIDA H L RETAILWEAR ERS

BREXIT OKAY, SO WHAT HAPPENS NEXT?

FREE SAMPLES FOR QUALIFIED ACCOUNTS Apply online: www.dessy.com/retailers For more information contact Michele O’Neill email: michele@dessy.com or call: 0845 838 1041

www.dessy.com

RO M A N T I C A C O L L E C T I O N S BRITISH BY DESIGN

We will be showcasing our brand new 2020 A/W collections at London Bridal Fashion Week, from the 22nd to the 24th of March, find us at stand no. E50.

Our stunning gowns wholesale from ÂŁ150 to ÂŁ425.

Contact us to find out more about becoming a Romantica Collections stockist: julie@romanticaofdevon.co.uk - 07808 066 435 neil@romanticaofdevon.co.uk - 07921 729 031 www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

DRESS SHOWN: RIGEL FROM THE STARRY NIGHTS COLLECTION

www.dandolondon.com

Come and visit us at Stand D62

For details on becoming a Dando London stockist contact sales@dandolondon.com Headquarters: DP World Logistics Centre, Ground Floor, North Sea Crossing, Stanford le Hope, Essex. SS17 9ER (+44) 1420 23490 media@dandolondon.com

Dando London

contents

MUM’S THE WORD John Charles on dressing up and looking gorgeous – see page 58

W H AT ’ S W HE RE 13 TA L KING P OINT The latest need-to-knows in bridal

68

19 I N MY OP INION Laura Daly on polishing your practices

75

20 L ET TER FROM AME R ICA Virus concerns and production

78

22 TA L KING SH OP Retailers are starting to beam

82

30

EL L IE Changing with the times

32

A N E W CH AP TER Christine Marchant moves forward fast

38

LBFW What you will see at ExCel

46

DESIGNER SP EAK Alan Hannah’s shopping tips

48

A N E W E XP E R IE NC E Laura Daly helps choose a line

52

L EA RNING FROM OT HE R S Lilly’s retail success story

T HIR D T HO U G H T S Sue Lovell cares for the environment GU IDE TO.. .

Tied up with beautiful bows FROM GERMANY The names worth knowing. We look at the labels on offer from this big and thriving market

88

DAY IN L IF E O F. . .

Justin Warshaw is energy packed. You’ll be tired just reading about his day

90

Pic in file, Pure by tica.

FRAM E D! Little works of art

93

B R E XIT: WH AT ’ S N E X T Getting to grips with procedures

96

T EC HNO Getting on top of all those emails

98

FY DD Check out what brides are looking at first

100 S HOWS TO CATC H

There are a packed few months ahead, where are you planning to buy?

56 MYR NA Getting digitally prepared for the season

102 T RAINING

58

OH M OTH ER! What makes John Charles stand out

104 FINANC E

65 T WI A And these are this year’s winners

106 AND FINAL LY

Finding the perfect team players Michael Cahill answers your questions Here’s what you have to say this month

PURE BY ROMANTICA SERRANO BY SUZANNE NEVILLE

26 S IX O F TH E BEST Short, sweet and right for today. We pick our favourite little ones

GE T T ING TO K N OW. . .

Paloma Blanca, Canada’s number one

MARCH/APRIL 2020 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 7

CO NTACT US

Ed’s Letter

Editor Susi Rogol

Like we said, for retailers 2020 could be something of a record breaker, certainly compared to the past few years; we are getting regular reports about increases in appointment bookings, which is great news all round. And, despite so many concerns about Brexit, now it is done and the detail will start to unravel over the forthcoming months, at least we will share the same changes and whatever their affects. Will there be a decrease in UK couples choosing to marry abroad? And an increase in overseas couples deciding to exchange vows and party here? It is too early to tell yet and fears regarding the spread of the coronavirus could make a difference. Will deliveries be interrupted because of the virus? We hear different things almost daily, the most positive being that if there is a delay, it will only be a brief one – a matter a days or a few weeks, not the many months suggested by some. It is worth checking with your suppliers when you visit them at this year’s key bridal shows in case you need to adapt your timetable.

EDITOR SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND TEAM TALK Andy Allen Art Director “I am trying to understand the next steps in Brexit and how they will affect businesses. This article helped a bit.” (p92) Martha Cooke Head of Advertising “Justin Warshaw’s day is action packed! it is no wonder Justin Alexander is on top of the bridal game.” (p90) Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding “It is great to know that so many retailers are having a busy season with more appointments than ever.” (p22) CONTRIBUTORS Damian Bailey, Dominic Bliss, Michael Cahill, Helena Cotter, Laura Daly, Myrna Plaisir Daramy, Jill Eckersley, James Ellis, Nicola Garton, Peter Grimes, Alan Hannah, Maria Kelly, Sue Lovell, Christine Marchant, Chris Partridge, Rob and Andrew Pierce, Jade Pepperell, , Anne Kathrine Rantzau Ellie Sanderson, Steve Sidkin, Justin Warshaw, Helen Williams

Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

SHARING OPINIONS, EXPERIENCES, VISIONS OF THE FUTURE

New chapters STARTING OVER IN THE BRIDAL BUSINESS

Brand awareness THE LABELS THAT MAKE A DIFFERENCE

Menswear Editor Dominic Bliss dominic.bliss@btopenworld.com

Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com

Head of Advertising Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07877 449122 @WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader

weddingtradermag.com

ISSUE 20 • MARCH/APRIL ’20

I t’s buying time WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE BIG SHOWS

PRO SUPPOUDLY RT BRITISHING BRIDAL WEAR RETAILE RS

BREXIT OKAY, SO WHAT HAPPENS NEXT?

WT20_cover 3aa JP.indd 1

susi@meanttobemedia.com

02/03/2020 16:14

Cover image: Blue by Enzoani goes for gorgeousness

Trader WEDDING

Wedding Trader magazine is distributed to hundreds of the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is a new trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

MEANT TO BE MEDIA Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 7 Derbyshire Road, Manchester M40 1QN. Tel: 0161 681 1771 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish: F IND YOUR

LOV E OUR

DREAM DRESS

MARCH/APRIL 2020 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 9

London Bridal Fashion Week March 22nd-24th, 2020 Stand G42

London Bridal Fashion Week March 22nd-24th, 2020 Stand G42

TALKIN G POINT The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now

Plain and anything but simple Elbeth Gillis is a master of understatement employing skilful cutting techniques to create unexpected volume, and whittling down detail so that a silhouette speaks for itself. This gown, Savannah, is a sensation.

FEET FIRST The new collection from Paradox London is, we reckon, the best yet, with everything from skyscraper high sculpted stilettos to jewellery-encrusted classic courts to neat little trainers and ready-to-party espadrilles.

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A FINE TIME AT ONE FINE DAY The exclusive designer-only show, One Fine Day, returns to London and JJ Wimbourne in New North Road Islington, 22-24 March, with a glorious line-up of more than 30 labels that includes Adi Groman, Agata Wojtkiewicz, Alena Leena, Anna Georgina, Catherine Kowalski, Karen Willis Holmes, Katya Katya, Mia Lavi, and a favourite – Sadoni. This intimate show has moved way ahead in the designer arena – just check out the website onefinedaybridalmarket. com and make time to visit and be very very impressed.

NEW NAME LAU N C H I N G AT E XC E L

SADONI

Victoria Hall, designer behind the new Amatissimo Bridal Couture label, will show her first ever collection, Pure Joy, at LBFW fusing modern elements with timeless silhouettes. Look out for some great little numbers and lots of fun in this diverse collection.

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Pronovias Group Expands Its Presence At Vbbfw At Barcelona, 20-26 April, Pronovias will present three of its brands: White One will unveil a unique new collection created by the US designer Zac Posen (below right); St.Patrick will be displaying its 2021 collection by its new designer Riccardo Serravalle (below centre); and Pronovias will be presenting an exciting new global partnership. To mark a change in its artistic direction, Pronovias has decided to move its highly-anticipated fashion show to March 2020 when its new Creative Artistic Officer, Alessandra Rinaudo (below left), will showcase her first collection for the bridal couture house.

UNDERCOVER STORY As silhouette trends change, so Jupon introduces new petticoats to work perfectly with the latest styles. There are now some 30 variations in the collection including fishtails, ballgowns and A-lines. Sizes run from 8 to 28, but larger sizes are available on request; RRPs are £40 to £150.

FROM IAN STUART “In January 2020, we went into voluntary liquidation. We were struggling with a vicious cash flow circle, waiting to be paid, so we could pay others. The situation was totally out of our control. We tried our best to continue, but

finally could not.

Too much money was going out and not enough was coming in on time. We were, as the saying goes, ‘robbing Peter to pay Paul’.

We worked very hard with the liquidator to get as many dresses out as possible, and reduce the reputation damage liability as best we could.

It’s really been a sad time for me, Pete, the girls and our fabulous team, who are all like family to me.

The emotion we have endured during this experience cannot be described in words.

Over our 18 years, we have won countless awards, showed our collections worldwide, tried new markets that no other UK designer went to or investigated, restored and renovated the beautiful Grade 1 listed Blewcoat building, had our Flowerbomb dress in the Wedding Dresses exhibition the V&A Museum, and had a 25episode TV show, The Posh Frock Shop, with Chanel 4. So, finally, I guess we did ok!

After a lot of sleep and reflection, we now realise it’s not a ‘crime’ to have to go into voluntary liquidation, due to circumstances beyond your control.

Sir Alan Sugar once said: “You are not a business man until you have been out of business.”

I won’t ever give up designing, as it’s in my blood!

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WHAT’S NOT TO LOVE ?

Ivory & Co always introduce an element of surprise when least expected. This tea-length dress from the new collection somehow turns the classical into a thoroughly modern, ubercool dress that you can picture at a formal wedding as well as on the beach. It’s one that will be worn again!

Coronavirus MESSAG E F R OM BBSA

BBSA members are aware that the spread of Coronavirus in China is causing concern to retailers, who are worried about delivery of brides’ orders during this busy season.

The timing of the Coronavirus is likely to have been exacerbated by the Chinese New Year national holidays, which spread factory workers far and wide throughout the country as they returned to their homes to celebrate with family and friends.

However, all BBSA member suppliers are long-established brands with experience in dealing with Chinese New Year and unexpected events. Retailers should be reassured that all suppliers are working closely with their factories to minimise disruption and to ship dresses on time.

In order to avoid any disappointment, many brands have revised their standard delivery times for future orders and/or temporarily suspended rush deliveries. The BBSA has setup a special webpage, which you can follow here https://www.bridalsuppliers. co.uk/news/view/coronavirus-supplierdelivery-information. This page will be regularly updated to provide specific information from members’ brands and any lead times that may be affected.

The BBSA would also like to reassure retailers that, according to the CDC, there is little or no risk of transference of Coronavirus from product shipped from China to the UK. Coronavirus will not survive on a surface for more than a few hours, so any goods shipped from China, which will take at least several days, are safe to handle without any additional safety measures required.

This general guidance may not apply to all suppliers, so we urge all retailers to check the BBSA webpage regularly for updates and contact your suppliers directly if you have any specific concerns.

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LEARN FROM THE BEST

COOKIES: They make leave a bad taste

E learning made easy.

You’ll love the new industry-specific courses Helena Cotter has written for you, which are now available to purchase and download direct from her website shop. https://helenacotter. co.uk/shop/ With prices starting at £199, they represent excellent value for your money. Discover everything you need to know from how to book appointments to helping your brides choose and buy the dress of their dreams.

Remember, investing in your team will help guarantee the future health of your business.

Do you know – really know – if your social media targeting is unlawful? When a consumer visits your website, will they be targeted by you with advertisements next time they log in to their Facebook or Instagram account? If so, do you know whether you are complying with the law when using the cookies and tracking technologies (such as the Facebook pixel) which result in this happening? Whilst a lot of businesses have carried out intensive data protection compliance programmes following the introduction in 2018 of the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR), many businesses still fall short when it comes to compliance with the rules on cookies. A quick check online shows that some of the UK’s largest businesses are still not complying with the rules. The advice on Fox Williams’ website agentlaw.co.uk/site/briefing_notes/cookies-what-dobusinesses-have-to-do-to-comply# should be read, taken in, and followed.

ANOTHER DESSY S PECIAL Global leader in social occasionwear, and fast to join forces with big designer names, Dessy has partnered with ‘the bridal brand for cool girls’, Lovely Bride, to launch a new line of bridesmaids dresses.

The collaboration comes after both brands spotted a gap in the market for bridesmaid s dresses that were not only fresh, modern and cool, but that offered a wide range of different styles, colours and size options. The collection, Lovely Bridesmaids, will be available at Dessy’s authorised stockists across the UK from the end of April.

Lanie List, founder and CEO of Lovely Bride, said: “Having worked with thousands of brides at Lovely Bride, we get asked all of the time where one can buy cool bridesmaids dresses.

“Until recently, we often recommended ready-to-wear shops or online sites, but our brides were always challenged to find the right sizes and colours available to them when it was time for them to order.

When Dessy approached us, it felt like the perfect opportunity.

“Dessy understands our vision for the styles our brides want, and their

execution is flawless. We are thrilled that through this partnership we are able to give our brides something fresh and unexpected in bridesmaid dresses.

“Going forward, we will continue to push the boundaries on design and introduce top trending details from the ready-to-wear market into the Lovely Bride collection, giving the bride the benefit of ordering bridesmaid dresses in her own wedding colours from dozens of options, and in sizes that are

inclusive to all of the wedding party.”

Lovely Bride was founded by fashionista, Lanie List, in 2010 in a bid to make the concept of bridalwear cooler. With stores across the US, Lovely Bride has flipped the traditional bridal landscape on its head by granting access to great bridal options – all while offering brides an unforgettable shopping experience.

Lovely Bride will be launching its London store in Spring 2020, the first store outside of the US.

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In my opinion

If ever there’s a time to look for silver linings and polish up our practices, it’s got to be now says Laura Daly

A

s I write, trade arrangements with the rest of the world post-Brexit are uncertain and some suppliers in our industry have already increased their prices, citing rising production costs, which they can no longer absorb. Add to that the as yet unknown long-term effect of coronavirus on Chinese manufacturing and the ability of our suppliers to deliver on time, and 2020 looks to be shaping up to be a challenge at the least!

So where are those silver linings?

Take the uncertainty of rush cuts as one example. At a time when there are more short-notice weddings than ever, the lack of a rush-cut option could actually be a bit of a blessing as we may find ourselves selling more off-the-peg. That’d be no bad thing, given the quantities of samples we’re expected to purchase each season and the physical limit of the rail space available to hold them.

We may even be able to help one another if a supplier can’t deliver a style in time but a trusted retailer friend has one in stock they don’t need.

Also, considering the fact that many designers now offer a live list of available stock, either via an internet portal or by a regular email update, the mission of finding a gown for those customers with close wedding dates is less of a problem than it used to be.

I reckon that, with diligent communication and homework, we can educate our staff as to which styles and sizes are freely available and customers should be encouraged and

guided to the ones they can actually purchase, rather than being allowed to admire something they’re unlikely to get in time.

If you have a sale rail, maybe consider getting rid of it and instead mixing those dresses back in with your main collection, labelled clearly as buy-me-today dresses. Sometimes there’s less stigma to an off-the-peg purchase at a discount than there is to buying a sale gown; it’s worth a try!

A humble word of warning, though, from someone who’s been in bridal retailing for 19 years. Although it makes sense where necessary to offer a discount to sell a sample off-the-peg, please resist the urge to slash prices on repeat orders so as to get extra money through the till. As tempting as it may seem when sales are slow and things are getting tight, dropping your dress prices in the hope that it will bring you in more sales is tantamount to retail suicide. It won’t solve your problems and, by the time you realise this, you could have driven your business into serious trouble.

Unless you’re downsizing staff or premises, the year’s overheads are not likely to change much. Even if you can trim a little off, say, packaging and printing, your rent, rates, wages, and so on, are likely to stay the same or quite possibly increase. If you’ve already committed to a certain amount of new stock for 2020, that, too will have to be paid for.

How many dress repeats from your samples do you sell in a year? If it’s 200 and you drop £50 on even half of these sales, that’s £5,000 less through your till. And don’t even go there with the £100 drop – would you help your business by taking £10,000 less? It sounds ridiculous, I know, but many retailers in this industry particularly, seem to think it’s worth trying.

Bear in mind that the vast majority of those brides would have purchased that gown from you anyway, by dropping the price, you have just gifted them a substantial part of your profit.

Rather than giving money away, a better way forward would be to find extra things to charge for – maybe gown storage: 200 dresses stored a year at, say, £35 each soon adds up.

By doing this, you’ll probably cover the cost of your shop insurance and, of course, you could include it free as a gesture of good will, if you need to from time to time, without devaluing the gown itself. Maybe consider charging for your dress bags and branded hangers instead of footing the bill yourself.

I’m not claiming to have a magic bullet for 2020 but I do think we need to become even more creative with the way we trade, whilst protecting our bottom line. The challenge is real – but then we love a challenge, don’t we?

After all, we’re bridal retailers!

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 19

Letter from America Peter Grimes, of VOWS magazine reports that bridal and prom manufacturers issued updates mid-February about the current status and capacity of their Chinese factories shuttered since early February due to the Coronavirus

T

o summarize… factories are reopening with limited initial capacity, and freight and shipping companies are back on line. But short-term delays are anticipated. Be patient. The worst case fears of an international bridal emergency of missed wedding dates and of panicked brides are overblown.

At this point, we are still in the midst of a continuously evolving situation, but manufacturers have reported that roughly half of industry Chinese factories have reopened with from 40-75% of the workforce

returning, providing approximately 40+% capacity.

Note: it is not only bridal and prom finished goods affected, nor only those firms primarily producing in China. Supply of piece goods such as laces and beading sourced from China is still being affected.

Though there are still issues to work out, including source supply, shipping and logistics, and the impact of possible shortterm quarantine of workers in factory dormitories, manufacturers anticipate that the delay in deliveries will be weeks instead of months…

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and they are confident in the plans in place to accommodate brides with close wear dates.

As of this week, the suspension of Super Rush and Rush for March and April deliveries enacted earlier this month will continue, and standard delivery schedules are being revised… for example, May scheduled deliveries delayed until June.

It’s important to note that for US brands, this disruption does not appear to impact collections’ availability for March and April domestic markets.

For major, long-established bridal and prom brands sourcing or producing from or in China, this current disruption, though much more far reaching, is seemingly “business as usual” in terms of their resiliency and capability in dealing with unexpected events from this region of the world.

Retailers and manufacturers alike also indicate that as an industry we have weathered such storms before: Alfred Angelo closing 60

company stores impacting over 1,200 wholesalers worldwide in 2017 is one recent example. We have done so by not allowing unrealistic worst-case scenarios to panic us, our employees or our brides.

In today’s disruption, it’s critical that we maintain level heads.

Additional suggestions w Review special orders for close wear dates, determine if a buffer has been added, and communicate with your manufacturers. w Reconfirm delivery dates on all orders placed this month. w Review your hanging stock in the

Though there are still issues to work out, manufacturers anticipate that the delay in deliveries will be weeks instead of months event you need to switch a bride into a different, similar-looking gown. w Anticipate additional delays or special order issues from smaller resources... especially those with past delivery problems. w Prepare staff with honest details and answers to calm any bride who might reach out concerned about the status of her gown. Your brides are following the news and social media posts. She knows that this is not limited to bridal but is hitting virtually every industry. w Be patient. There are a number of moving parts to this scenario… it will take some time for factories to catch up to lost production.

WA NT TO BE HEARD? Wedding Trader is your platform to voice an opinion, share a thought, argue a corner. If you have something to say, say it on our pages and it will reach fellow retailers, and suppliers… the readers of Wedding Trader.

Tips, advice, suggestions are all welcome and so are your questions. This is your magazine, shaped by your views and here to deliver the information that the industry will find of value.

Pose a toughie and we’ll find an expert to answer. Email us to start the conversation going.

Trader Trader Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

And for those brides (or staff) concerned about the virus and gowns: According to the World Health Organisation, people receiving packages and goods from China are not at risk of contracting Coronavirus as they know from previous analysis that Coronaviruses do not survive long on objects.

New York greats

THE BEST BITS OF HARROGATE...

RETAILERS LIST THEIR FAB FIVE

WEDDING

ISSUE 18 • NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

PRO SUPPOUDLY RTI BRITIS NG BRIDALWH RETAIL EAR ERS

COMING UP ROSES...

PINK IS THE PRETTIEST CHOICE

Reactions

ISSUE 17 • SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER ’19

It’s show time...

HARROGATE GETS READY FOR A BRIDAL BONANZA

NEW SHOP FIT? WATCH WHAT YOU SPEND

05/11/2019 12:18

TRANSPARENCY THE FROCKS THAT PUT BODIES (AND KNICKERS) ON DISPLAY

LY PROUD NG RTI SUPPO H BRITIS EAR BRIDALWERS RETAIL

ISSUE 16 • JULY/AUGUST ’19

What you think...

THE BRICKBATS AND BOUQUETS OF BRIDAL TODAY

Getting ready for Harrogate WHY THE SHOW WITH A PROUD HISTORY REMAINS FIRST CHOICE

HOW US TARIFFS MIGHT AFFECT THE UK MARKET

TALKING SHOP: WE GET RETAILERS TOGETHER

WT17_Cover1aa_s JP.indd 1

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

CAPES... SOMETHING YOU SIMPLY HAVE TO HAVE IN 2020

LADYBIRD FLIES INTO A WHOLE NEW CHAPTER AS PART OF PRONOVIAS

ARE THEY WHAT TOMORROW WILL BRING?

Apple facts and all the fiction WT18_Cover try4 paloma 2aa.indd 1

LY PROUD NG RTI SUPPO H BRITIS EAR BRIDALWERS RETAIL

ELEGANT BRIDAL SUPERSTORES

THE WINNERS ON STAGE TO GET THEIR TROPHIES

DIARIES AT THE READY SAVE ALL THE DATES FOR THE 2020 SHOWS

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

WEDDING

ELLIE SANDERSON AND OTHERS SPEAK FROM THE HEART OF BRIDAL

13/08/2019 13:08

Closing the doors

FREDA BENNET PROMISES TO BE EVERYONE’S FAVOURITE

ONE RETAILER ON WHAT MADE HER CHANGE DIRECTION

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01/07/2019 16:57

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Talking Shop So far so good. It seems to be thumbs up all round, and lots of crossed fingers, but if business pans out the way it is looking right now, we’re in for a good ride this year

THE CONFETTI BOX BRIDAL CENTRE Where Manchester The boss Maria Kelly Opened 1986 Average spend per dress £1,600 Main labels carried Maggie Sottero, Sottero & Midgley, Morilee, Rebecca Ingram

reputation that also brings in the brides.

understand and it has left a bad taste.

Are you entering any awards programmes this year, and which ones?

None because being a finalist quite a few times at the September awards I have come to the conclusion that it’s not what you know, but who you know. In the long-standing award the winners had been trading for ten years, or 15 years.

How does that trump 34 years? I will never

Best lessons learned in 2019?

Not to be so trusting with companies who tell you one thing when your gut is telling you something else. Trust your gut instinct.

Your expectations of business in 2020?

Even with all that’s going on now with viruses, political things etc, we have never been busier.

Is the appointment diary busier than last year?

We are always fully booked for Saturdays at least three weeks in advance, but this year we are also finding brides are booking really far in advance. It’s been great, actually.

What social media platforms do you use, and how frequently?

Facebook, Instagram, Twitter but after trading for 34 years, it’s our fantastic

MORILEE This collection never fails to delight

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THE WEDDING SHOP Where Colchester, Essex The boss? Nicola Garton Opened? In 1981 Average spend per dress? £1,700 Main labels carried? Suzanne Neville, Jesus Piero, Kenneth Winston, Essense of Australia, Morilee, Ronald Joyce, Stella York.

Is the appointment diary busier than last year?

Our appointment diary is definitely much busier than last year, our weekends are almost back to full capacity again after a tricky few years.

What social media platforms do you use, and how frequently?

We really have stepped up our social media presence on all platforms, we post three to four times a day on Facebook, once on Instagram and post an Insta story every day. We also have a lot of our images on Pinterest as well as our own YouTube channel on which we have our Mother of the Bride and Groom fashion shows.

Are you entering any awards programmes this year, and which ones?

At the moment, we don’t have any plans to enter any awards this year but who knows, that could all change!

Best lessons learned in 2019?

The best lessons I have learned in 2019 are to not lose sight of your core business, keep giving amazing customer service, really be innovative with your business and always moving forward. Don’t over-buy, it’s so tempting but totally unnecessary.

Most importantly, discounting doesn’t increase your sales, it just cuts your profits.

Your expectations of business in 2020?

I’m really looking forward to 2020, it’s got off to a great start for us, We will be celebrating 40 years in bridal retail in 2021 so we will spend some time this year planning events and a big party.

RONALD JOYCE When gowns are cut to flatter that makes a big difference

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CREATIQUES BRIDAL BOUTIQUE Where Southsea, Hampshire The bosses Rob and Andrew Pearce Opened 1992, but moved to our current store in 2014 Average spend per dress £1,400 Main labels carried Maggie Sottero, Justin Alexander, Sincerity, Mark Lesley Is the appointment diary busier than last year?

This year has started very well and we are certainly up on appointments.

What social media platforms do you use, and how frequently?

Facebook, Instagram and Twitter, these are managed by creating posts that can be scheduled through the week at prime times.

Are you entering any awards programmes this year, and which ones?

No, not this year.

Best lessons learned in 2019?

Spend less, create more interest in your business, keep focused, and always listen to what your brides are looking for.

Your expectations of business in 2020?

They are high! We are about to refurbish the store and are building another section on for our ‘in boutique’ for mother of the bride/groom, occasionwear and, from September, prom. And we have now taken on a social media guru to run all our activities – Instagram is now becoming a strong platform for social media coverage – alongside our video diaries for brides so they know what to expect when they come into the shop and can follow one bride’s journey to her wedding.

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SINCERITY Always fresh, always feminine, always romantic

SHORT & SASSY Here’s our choice of the lovely little numbers in the newest collections; they go from short and chic to knee-length and swirly to separates that curve down to greater lengths

Freda Bennet

House Of Mooshki

FREDABENNET.CO.UK

HOUSEOFMOOSHKI.COM

Style: Riley Silhouette: Plunge neckline front and back Fabric: Mikado and silk chiffon Colours: Ivory Special features: Full circle skirt, button cuff sleeves Size range: UK 6-32 RRP: Approx £1,100 T: +44 (0)1322 537741 E: hello@fredabennet.co.uk

Style: Emily Silhouette: Tea-length Fabric: Ivory satin overlayed in soft ivory spot tulle Colours: Also available in pink satin with ivory overlay Special features: Look at those sleeves Size range: Made to measure RRP: £1,450 T: +44 (0)1915 260772 E: bridal@houseofmooshki.com

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Elbeth Gillis

ELBETHGILLIS.COM

Style: Priscilla and Tara Silhouette: Ostrich feather skirt with illusion top Fabric: Feathers, silk, lace motifs Colours: Ivory/nude Size range: Made to measure RRP: £1,865 T: +27 214 232220 E: info@elbethgillis.com

Destination Romance

By Demetrios

DEMETRIOS.COM

Style: DR330 Silhouette: Two-piece A-line Fabric: Satin Colours: Ivory or white Special features: Short to long skirt Size range: US 0-28 RRP: €700-€1,200 T: +39 02 2152176 E: info@ilissafashiongroup.com M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 27

Bowendryden

BOWENDRYDEN.CO.UK

Style: Feelin’ Groovy Silhouette: Short 80`s dirndl dress with optional long skirt Fabric: Cotton Colours: Natural – and can be dyed Size range: UK 6-18 RRP: £1,500 T: +44 (0)7801 446985 E: info@bowendryden.london

Adore

JUSTINALEXANDER.COM

Style: 11100 Silhouette: A-line Fabric: Tulle and lace Colours: Ivory/nude Size range: US 2-32 RRP: £900 T: +44 (0)1908 615599 E: info-uk@justinalexander.com

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Glamour since 1991 Poirier is specialized in bridal bodywear and accessories for the contemporary bride.

By focusing only on using the best designs and materials our mission is to make our brides glamorous and beautiful.

Enjoy the best bridal accessories on your journey of love.

The one-stop wedding shop including petticoats, veils, lingerie, head pieces, tiaras, jewellery and much, much more.

Come and visit us at Stand D6 Opening Times Sunday 24 March: 9.30am-6.30pm Monday 25 March: 9.30am-6.00pm Tuesday 26 March: 9.30am-4.00pm

www.jupon.com

01753622922 gary@jupon.com @jupon.petticoats

@jupon_petticoats

@juponpetticoats

OV ER TO E L L I E We’ve been talking change, and more change, and change again. But we need to examine exactly where we are and what we are doing before we rush into the next change-driven chapter in this industry of ours

W

elcome to 2020 and a whole new year of selling. In fact it’s a totally different world of selling. The change for retailers has been immense and will continue to be so. Over-connectivity I call it.

We are all so connected that we waste hours of our lives comparing and contrasting. That goes for us as retailers as well as our customers.

Our consumer joins social groups,

follows social pages, joins chat groups and generally paralyses herself with choice, making the decision to buy her dress harder than ever.

The retailer who wins is the one who predicts what the consumer wants and when she wants it, even if she doesn’t know she wants it. Believe it or not, there is a way for us to know what she wants even before she herself knows!

Great retailing is not just about social platforms and old-fashioned marketing and it’s not just about having great social channels with lots of likes and comments. Let’s face it – impressive Instagram content doesn’t always lead to appointment conversions. Nor does great video content, live shows and the like.

Everyone has Instagram accounts but getting people to STOP scrolling and start engaging is the biggest challenge of all. Especially as the algorithms keep changing.

Our need to keep ahead and predict what our client actually wants is crucial. People scroll and look at stuff and keep going as they are bombarded with so much it becomes a habit to see what is next.

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And there’s more Then there is e-shot marketing. How many of us send out cleverly written e-shots to our carefully-procured databases? I am sure you make the headline exciting and intriguing. I am certain you spend time choosing imagery that is inspirational and cool. I bet the content within is engaging and I bet you have a call to action at the end.

But even those are not great any more. Despite GDPR we still get heaps of junk e-shots and the generic opening rate is as low as 15%-20%.

Kind of feels like you are shooting into the wind. And let’s not forget the other key platforms: Facebook, Pinterest, Linkedin, Twitter, and more. They all face the same challenge. So just how do we get the consumer to stop and take a look?

One amazing business that has done just that is Amazon. It has built its entire business model on creating a digital DNA for each of its visitors. They have 500 attributes per customer; their business model is to collect DATA to improve the client experience and SELL MORE. I genuinely believe we are naïve

Imagine if your website had a series of planned outcomes programmed into it that meant that it would automatically connect with that bride and encourage her to book? I promise I am not talking cookies here, but pure A.I tracking of your clients, engaging them based on triggers that they hit that pushes an automated response to go to them?

IBM has retail teams across the globe that work with various retail companies which extract Everyone has Instagram critical data from products and customer behaviours. Their teams Seek the opportunities accounts but getting people then automate key functions that My head is exploding with the deliver a personalised experience. possibilities and opportunities to STOP scrolling and start I WANT A SLICE OF THAT PLEASE. we have to become more engaging is the biggest It is mind boggling what we intelligent with the information can do within the boundaries we can gather. challenge of all of GDPR. I am excited by that.

I have been working with I am cold with blogging, luke a small company looking at warm with Facebook and Instagram had been to your website five times how I can predict what my clients and looked at the same dress and left and now my entire 2020 is about needs are, how I can personalise getting a new system in my business without booking an appointment. their connections with us and how Imagine if you knew the same bride that is intelligent, automated but I can manage their journey through personalised and for me; it’s time to had been on your Instagram feed my website to appointment more rethink how I am connecting and do it and liked the same designer and intelligently. dress several times or every time you so much better.

I have learned so much and I I will keep you posted on my A.I posted one of that designer’s dresses. know that we can be so much better journey of discovery. gathering data on our clients. I am just You’d want to act, wouldn’t you? if we think to ourselves: “Well, that’s Amazon. It doesn’t apply to us.”

Because I think it does. Amazon is setting the direction for shopping patterns and behaviours for the future generations. They are influencing our bride’s decision-making processes by offering them incredible experiences.

That will become the norm.

Not only does Amazon have 2.3 million followers on Instagram but the A.I (artificial intelligence) they gather is awesome.

evaluating the cost side of that work.

In looking at this, though, I researched companies like IBM which has a department called visual data science. IBM works with world-class organisations gathering data, creating predictive models to empower organisations and lead them to successful selling.

Imagine what you would do If I told you that you had a bride-to-be who

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Fresh thoughts Last year, Christine Marchant changed her life, moving out of retailing, and taking time out to rethink the future. We asked her about her short-lived retirement, her views on the industry and her decision to return to the world of bridal Last year you gave up retailing – why the decision and any regrets today?

It was a difficult decision to make as White Mischief had found its place in the industry, but it was more or less taken out of my hands when the renewal of the lease couldn’t be favourably negotiated. I’m nudging closer to retirement and the thought of tying myself up for another 12 years simply wasn’t an option. I’ve no regrets and sleep a lot easier now, but I do miss the buzz of retailing.

My family were retailers, going back several generations so I assume it was in the blood! I started my days at age 14 selling vinyl records and I loved the buzz of the sale. The feeling is the same whatever industry but bridal was a little more glamorous than electrical appliances.

At the same time, you gave up your distributor-ship of Augusta Jones – again, why, and any regrets?

This decision was taken out of my

hands, too. The owner of Augusta Jones could clearly see the retail industry was evolving, recognising that the volume of goods found on the internet, with fast shipping and returns policies, was changing the face of shopping.

Stores finding it hard to close sales couldn’t justify the investment needed into the collection, and we in turn needed to achieve the repeats to maintain and run our own production.

This resulted in her closing the factory

MOVING FORWARD The Nieve collection is one that Christine believes has particular appeal

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when the lease expired.

At the eleventh hour we did finalise an agreement with Robert Bullock Bride to continue the label under license. The initial plan was to ensure there would be a seamless transition period from AJ’s production to his, which has now been undertaken, but the uncertainty of Brexit, tariffs and currency fluctuations resulted in a successful relaunch in the USA but a delay in Europe. Robert is keen to bring the brand to UK, but wants to see the direction our economy takes.

Standing back, and assessing the market, the main changes and the forthcoming waves of change – did you have a clear picture of where we could be heading with the right knowledge and dedication?

I believe the industry will be in for a complete shake up and it’s not before time. The current business model no longer works in this dynamic and changing environment and I think that the larger manufacturers may look towards online platforms whilst they continue to work together

the following season, which requires with professional, well-established purchase as the original one was a retailers but under a completely best seller. different methodology.

Gone should be the days of What did you see as the major demanding and dumping minimum quantities of samples on every retailer weaknesses in the industry?

The number of retailers who still work with the threat of closing an account in a cottage industry environment if they don’t invest; they simply don’t and those who come into the have the room.

Suppliers need to work closer with industry inexperienced, without a business plan, knowledge of their customers and recognise that socio-demographics and lack basic smart retailers only require product marketing skills needed that they can sell. They need I believe the industry to launch and maintain a good, solid business. continuity of will be in for a complete There’s a lot of supply as they to be done have made shake up; the current homework and there’s a great a significant number of forums like investment business model no Bridal Business Owners, into the brand, longer works White Dress Society training, sales and the new Get Savvy support etc.

As a retailer in the past I understand Facebook page that are there to share how frustrating it is to find half of your their knowledge and experience – it’s worth some investment and time to collection suddenly discontinued; it research. renders your investment dead and it I see forums where new retailers leads to a plethora of sample gowns are asking basic questions about saturating sale rails only to find an accounting, sample purchasing, VAT almost identical dress relaunched

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etc and I despair this should all have been part of the plan!

At the same time, suppliers need to be selective and consider how their line will sit within the business location, rather than overwhelm a store with samples. They also need to ensure that their customers understand their product and whether they will secure repeat sales – it’s not all about selling samples and letting the shop flounder!

Also, an annual audit wouldn’t do any harm and I don’t mean financially.

The physical premises, the décor, the approach to customers, training plans, the ROI etc. Annually, I looked from the outside in and was super critical of what I saw and learnt from it. It’s a process I’m passionate about and am happy to work with retailers to help them through, too.

And the strengths?

We’re slowly growing to be more professional. It’s not just mid to highend retail stores that are business savvy… there are some extremely successful low-end retailers who are achieving some amazing sales and taking a huge bite of the retail business. There is a great support network of other retailers out there who are keen to share their experiences.

Millennials and soon the Gen Z are coming into the industry and they bring with them a more refreshing approach a better understanding of social media and the digital age.

They have personal understanding of how their generation works, thinks and buys and will adapt the industry accordingly.

Understanding what motivates

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these generations to purchase will be crucial as they demand a tip-top shopping experience and although they are hooked on discount codes and the like, they look for ethical production, good quality and authenticity – which hopefully will see the slow demise of cheap copies – and they want to see something given back to society from the profits that are made.

But, be aware, they are not afraid to take risks and to fulfil their quest for discounting will look to ‘once used’ or sale product, which is a great opportunity for slow moving samples.

So what have you been doing in the past 12 months?

It took a few months to get my house in order (literally) and do some travelling I had only thought about

previously, but around four months in I started to get fidgety and realised retirement wasn’t for me yet.

Being in a unique position of having had a foot in both camps – retail and wholesale – I’d been approached by a few companies but declined their offers. Until now.

I have always been keen to work with Independently-owned companies. With Augusta Jones we owned our factory, had the ability to control the entire production process and were able to offer significant design changes to dresses to create a bespoke gown.

I’m keen to continue with this ethos, to ensure swift delivery and good quality product at a suitable price for the market sector it will support.

how did that all come about?

Nieve had contacted me as soon as the announcement was made regarding Augusta Jones and although we opened dialogue I really wasn’t looking to continue to work and keen to fulfil a few projects around home so it was a number of months before we actually got together to formalise an agreement.

I am taking on the label and plan to move it in a fresh direction, whilst offering great value for money. Being an independently-owned company, in control of their production, Nieve ticked most of the boxes for me.

So will you be starring at the forthcoming shows – and which ones will the label be at?

Of course, we’re booked for both And you’ve chosen to be with Nieve – London and Harrogate. I returned to

exhibiting at Harrogate in September and was delighted to see a number of my old stockists visiting as customers of Nieve; with the variety of products in the collection there really is something for everyone.

I’m looking forward to London.

Believe it or not – I haven’t visited the show since it moved to Excel as I’d been tied up in weddings overseas for a few years!

We’ll have a fabulous selection of bridal, bridesmaid, flower girl, Communion dress and accessories to show .

Christine can be reached on +44 (0)7774 741942 christine@whitemischiefbridal.com www.nieve-couture.com

ALL ABOUT NIEVE Who is behind Nieve and when was it launched?

Nieve is a British design label, launched in 2006, created to fill the need for a couture, high-end finish at an accessible price.

bridesmaids 60 in a choice of over 50 colourways. There are 27 flowers girl and Communion dresses and the accessories count is endless. Importantly nothing is discontinued.

What are the key fabrics, trimmings, colours for 2021?

The 2021 collection includes new stretch fabrics for comfort and an easy fit. Both the bridal and bridesmaid collections also have stretch linings in luxurious satins, jerseys and laces. Nieve is all about the detail and the trimmings on dresses and Where is it designed, and where made? accessories create the perfect finishing The design team are based in the UK with touch. Pearls are in abundance for 2021, accessories hand made to order in the accented with glittering Swarovski UK with less than a week’s turnaround. crystal, touches of white opal and the Bridalwear and bridesmaid dresses are tiniest handmade flowers. made in the company-owned factory in Vietnam. Standard delivery on dresses is How many Nieve stockists are there in seven weeks and we can offer changes to the UK? designs within that period. Rush orders We currently have 133. can be catered for which is really useful on products such as Communion when Wat is the main design direction for the retailers tend to buy stock for a season new collection? and run out early!

The new collection of bridal gowns is focused on form and fit, with beautiful How many pieces are there in total? new clean silhouettes and only the most Bridal with have 55 dresses and special details added. Bridesmaids are What does the collection comprise?

Everything imaginable! Bridal gowns, bridesmaid dresses and matching men’s accessories, flower girl and Communion dresses and accessories including headpieces, veils, shrugs and petticoats.

soft and floaty with ruffles and sparkling beading, designed to be worn for other special events as well as weddings.

Accessories continue to be driven by innovation, with new techniques and materials combined to create stunning veils and headdresses that brides won’t be able to resist.

And what about the suggested retail prices?

The RRP is purely at the discretion of the retailers and we actively encourage the collection to be taken on a ‘Private Label’ basis and I’ll tell you why.

In a recent survey I undertook with our bridal collection, I asked retailers to price a range of gowns as they would in their store. One dress, ‘April’, has a cost price of £199 but was dress was priced on average at £1,700-£1,800.

If a retailer perceives the value of a dress to be £1,800 why should I encourage them to sell at around £600 when they can earn a much higher margin? Even for a retailer who is VAT registered that’s an immediate profit of £1,300 instead of £300.

This really is a collection that can help you maximise on your ROI.

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JENNIFER WREN BRIDAL

Visit us at stand no. E50

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

Affordable luxury, our gowns wholesale from an amazing ÂŁ125 to ÂŁ299.

Contact us to find out more about becoming a Pure Bridal stockist: kerry@romanticaofdevon.co.uk - 07834 519 864 phil@romanticaofdevon.co.uk - 07799 847 400

Visit us at stand no. E50

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

LO NDO N B RI DA L FASHION WEEK

What To Expect

You loved our White Gallery update in the last issue. Here’s a selection of the brands you can expect to see at London Bridal Fashion Week at ExCel, 22-24 March – there are some great names in the line up of 350 labels. Don’t miss the extras like the Bridal Retail Success Academy, the catwalk programme, and the RBA Awards night

DANDO LONDON Country: UK Sector: Bridal Personality of label: Seductive creative spirit, chic yet eminently wearable offering a bold fashion statement.

Number of pieces in collection: 31 Fabrics: Stretch heavy crepe that holds and shapes, mikado, laces.

Colours: Ivory, latte, Champagne Size range: US 2-16 Need-to-knows: Specially commissioned lace, beadwork and layering of embellishment to give a the most feminine and romantic 3D floating effect. The famed Dando London cut and shaping gives a wonderful slim silhouette. Fuller gowns are nipped tightly in at the waist balancing enhancing the natural body shape. The Pure Signature Collection will be launched ay LBFW. RRP: £1,885-£5,750 Delivery from date of order: 24 weeks, but some stock held

SPECIAL DAY Country: Ireland Sector: Bridal, kids, teens Personality of label: Classic, elegant, timeless. Portfolio includes Beautiful Bride Plus, Diamond Collection, Isabella and KoKo Communion Collection, Special Day Prom.

Number of pieces in collection: 140 across all collections Fabrics: Crepe, mikado, lace Colours: Ivory blush Size range: UK 6-36 Need-to-knows: Leading silhouettes include tea-length, ballgowns and sheaths. Look out for plunging necklines and beautiful beadings.

Special Day Prom will launch at Excel.

RRP: Bridal £500-£1,200; maids £200£250 Delivery from date of order: 14-16 weeks, some stock held

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BIANCO EVENTO Country: Germany Sector: Bridal Personality of label: Contemporary, confident, understated chic.

Number of pieces in collection: 600+ (with accessories and Avalia shoes) Fabrics: Soft satin, intricate and sequined lace, beaded satin Colours: Ivory, blush Size range: UK 8-28 Need-to-knows: Designed for confident brides who love simplicity.

A-line dresses, fuller skirts.

RRP: £300-£1,500 Delivery from date of order: 3-5 days Stock held – 90% at all times

DONNA SALADO Country: UK Sector: Bridal Personality of label: Ground-breaking detail, classic with adventure, fabric manipulation Number of pieces in collection: 25 Fabrics: Stretch satin, lace, dupion, tulle, satin. mikado, crepe Colours: Ivory, Champagne Size range: UK 8-30 Need-to-knows: Boho with stunning laces, floaty skirts, hints of transparency. Biker jacket in lace and Mikado, figure-huggers with beaded bodices.

RRP: POA Delivery from date of order: July-August

ROMANTICA Country: UK Sector: Bridal Personality of label: Perfect for the classic bride, looking for a high quality, modern gown at an affordable price point. Great detailing and luxurious fabrics.

Number of pieces in collection: 33 Fabrics: Botanical lace, satin, soft crepes, flowing tulles.

Colours: Warm blush and Champagne hues.

Size range: UK 6-32 Need-to-knows: Illusion necklines, bodices and sleeves, embroidered details, detachable trains, hand beading.

Ballgowns, mermaids, tea length and A-lines.

RRP: £450-£1,150 Delivery from date of order: 16 weeks Look out at LBFW for Romantica’s other collections – Silhouette, Pure, Olivia Rose, Jennifer Wren and more.

AMARE COUTURE Country: USA Sector: Bridal Personality of label: Grand, sophisticated, impeccably styled.

Number of pieces in collection: 12 Fabrics: Velvet, tulle, organza, lattice embroidering, embroidered lace Colours: Black, nude, ivory, gold Size range: UK 0-30 Need-to-knows: Exquisite materials and showstopping bridal looks. Contemporary designs fused with classic royal looks. Sumptuous ballgowns and flattering A-lines.

RRP: £1,380-£2,297 Delivery from date of order: 4-6 months

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MARK LESLEY Country: UK Sector: Bridal Personality of label: Fashion forward – always innovative, and raising the bar Number of pieces in collection: 40 Fabrics: Stretch satin, lace, dupion, tulle, satin, mikado Colours: Ivory, Champagne Size range: UK 8-30 Need-to-knows: Two pieces with detachable top skirts, floaty boho dresses, sexy fit and flare gowns, brilliant draping. Great cowl backs.

Every body-shape covered!

RRP: POA Delivery from date of order: JulyAugust

BLUE BY ENZOANI, BEAUTIFUL, ETOILE, ELYSEE Country: Global Sector: Bridal Personality of label: “Blue by Enzoani: With KC and its signature on the 2021 Blue collection, we are focusing on the modern, fashion-conscious, edgy and sexy bride.”

Number of pieces in collection: 88 across the portfolio Size range: UK 4-32 Need-to-knows: “Blue by Enzoani: KC has really outdone himself again with the Blue collection. The collection is a jaw dropping and versatile collection, in which the use of unique and gorgeous fabrics laces are combined with many refined options and innovations. ÉTOILE: With the creation of our new ÉTOILE collection we were focussing on creating a more commercial and accessible product, without compromising on the quality and commercial value of the former Beautiful product. To find the right balance, the collection of ÉTOILE is completely reconstructed. Amongst many other subtle changes, the gowns have new cups and cup seams, and the waistlines have been dropped to add more boning to the structures.”

RRP: Blue by Enzoani £1,420-£2,310. ÉTOILE £1,260-£1,620. ÉLYSÉÉ £1,763£2,529.

Delivery from date of order: 24 weeks, but some stock held

MICHELLE BRIDAL Country: USA Sector: Bridal Personality of label: Exclusively Plus sizes, romantic, elegant, affordable.

Number of pieces in collection: 50 Fabrics: Satin with a slight sheen, lace, tulle Colours: Ivories, light Champagne, baby blue and splashes of black on ivory.

Size range: UK 18-36 Need-to-knows: Exquisite jumpsuits in rich French crepe; sleek, tailored pants suits in rich satin; solid black bridal gowns for the bride determined to be different; dazzling layers of metallic sparkle on tulle.

RRP: £1,000-£2,000 Delivery from date of order: 90 days but rush orders available.

Some stock held for fast delivery

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TIFFANYS BRIDAL and TIFFANYS BRIDESMAIDS Country: UK Sector: Bridal, bridesmaids Personality of label: Beautiful dresses that blend the modern with the traditional. Features include structured silhouettes.

Number of pieces in collection: 100 Fabrics: Mikado, crepe, tulle, organza Colours: Bridesmaids in 58 shades Size range: Brides UK 4-30; maids 2-30 Need-to-knows: Affordable prices to help retailers compete with the high street chains. Rush-cut maids, 4 weeks, no extra charge.

RRP: Bridal £695-£995; maids £169£199 Delivery from date of order: Bridal 14-16 weeks; maids 8-10 weeks

CASABLANCA BRIDAL Country: USA Sector: Bridal Personality of label: Classic, diverse, timeless, elegant Number of pieces in collection: 23 Fabrics: Mikado, 3D floral lace, embroidered sequin lace, beading Colours: Black, silver blush, nude, ivory Size range: UK 0-30 Need-to-knows: Casablanca Bridal has been creating beautiful wedding gowns for 23 years and ready to take the upcoming year by storm with timeless new designs that are fully customisable. Ballgowns, fitand-flare, A-lines, sheaths.

RRP: £843-£1,380 Delivery from date of order: 4-6 months Also check out Beloved and Amare

CIZZY Country: Australia Sector: Bridal Personality of label: Fresh elegant, feminine.

Number of pieces in collection: 12 Fabrics: Crepe Colours: Ivory Size range: UK 2-34 Need-to-knows: Look out for the square necklines and clever detailing, trumpets and sheaths.

RRP: £800-£3,300 Delivery from date of order: 16 weeks

POIRIER Country: Netherlands Sector: Bridal, mens and kids Personality of label: Poirier has been around for nearly 30 years delivering high quality products with quick delivery and is known for its forward thinking mixing bridal with the fashion trends.

Number of pieces in collection: 1,500 Fabrics: Countless Colours: Ivory, blush and others Size range: UK 6-21+ Need-to-knows: Great accessories and lingerie, too, and amazing new veil concepts for the new year.

RRP: £20-£250 Delivery from date of order: Less than a week

WHITE COLLECTION BY VICTORIA K Country: UK Sector: Bridal Personality of label: The look and feel of couture.

Number of pieces in collection: 20 Fabrics: Tulle, lace, satin Colours: Ivory, blush Size range: UK 4-48 Need-to-knows: Ballgowns lead the way here and gown customisations are available. Plus sizes are great looking.

RRP: £1,099-£1,899 Delivery from date of order: 16 weeks

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LAZARO, TARA KEELY BY LAZARO Country: USA Sector: Bridal Personality of label: Frothy ball gowns, trumpets, goddess gowns.

Number of pieces in collection: 24 Fabrics: Luxurious fabrics with shimmer, florals with botanical motifs Colours: Black accents Size range: UK 2-28 and higher Need-to-knows: Asymmetrical horsehair skirts, deconstructed bows.

RRP: £1,200-£6,000 Delivery from date of order: 16-22 weeks Portfolio includes Hayley Paige, Blush By Hayley Paige, Occasions

by Hayley Paige. La Petite, Allison Webb, Lucia by Allison Webb, Ti Adora.

MAGGIE SOTTERO Country: USA Sector: Bridal Personality of label: Every collection includes gowns that are elegant, elevated, and plucked right from a dream.

Number of pieces in collection: 70 Fabrics: Shimmery tulle and lace, sleek mikado, and lace illusion sleeves.

Colours: Pale hues such as ivory, soft blush, misty mauve, antique ivory, champagne, soft pearl, and ivory over nude Size range: UK 0-28 Need-to-knows: Impeccably tailored gowns ensure each bride feels like her best self on her big day. Style is not defined by size or body type, which is why MS offers Curve collections that encompass a variety of styles, silhouettes, and fabrics. There are raised front and back necklines, shapewear, and lined bodices so brides can wear their desired style without worry of improper support.

RRP: Under £900-£1,800 Delivery from date of order: 12-16 weeks from order Look out, too, for Sottero and Midgley and Rebecca Ingram

ROMANTICA BRIDESMAIDS Country: UK Sector: Bridesmaids Personality of label: Glamorous, timeless and flattering bridesmaids gowns to suit every size, shape and budget. Perfect for any season and any wedding style.

Number of pieces in collection: 24 Fabrics: Chiffon, satin, lace, tulle, stretch Colours: Over 60 colours, from rich jewel tones to dusky pinks and deep greens.

Size range: UK 6-32 (teen and children’s also available.

Need-to-knows: Romantica has focused on subtle changes to necklines and figure-hugging styles.

RRP: £115-£220 Delivery from date of order: 16 weeks

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OKSANA MUKHA Country: Ukraine Sector: Bridal Personality of label: The style of Kateryna Yalova (Oksana’s daughter) is individual and includes floral décor, embroidery and intricate draperies.

Number of pieces in collection: 80 Fabrics: Sparkling tulle, Chantilly lace, natural silk, taffeta, organza, satin Colours: Ivory Size range: UK 4-22 Need-to-knows: Feathers, fringes. capes, jumpsuits detachable trains.

RRP: Bridal £695-£995 Delivery from date of order: Depends on the intricacy of design

TWILIGHT DESIGNS Country: UK Sector: Bridal accessories Personality of label: Real choice – veils, hair accessories, tiaras, garters, jewellery, belts Number of pieces in collection: 350 individual designs Colours: Silver, gold and rose gold.

Veils are now available in ivory, blush, champagne and white RRP: Wide range Delivery from date of order: 2-4 business days

HILARY MORGAN Country: UK Sector: Bridal, bridesmaids, prom, flowergirls Personality of label: Part of David Keeling Associates which includes Little People flower girls and Warren York accessories Number of pieces in collection: 15-20 Fabrics: Satin, chiffon organza, velvet Colours: Soft pastels Size range: UK 2-40 Need-to-knows: Ballgowns are the big story. Different lengths are possible and there are excellent customisation options. No minimum orders, which is great news.

RRP: Under £1,000 Delivery from date of order: Depends on time of year

LADYBIRD Country: Netherlands Sector: Bridal Personality of label: Fun loving, dramatic, elegant, spectacular, sophisticated, magical, sexy.

Number of pieces in collection: 350 across 13 stories Fabrics: Speciality laces, heavy fluid crepe with delicate laces, feathers and spectacular beadwork.

Colours: Soft hues of pink, Champagne and almond Size range: UK 6-34 Need-to-knows: Part of the Pronovias Group and with a vast portfolio of individual labels, Ladybird is focused on inventory so it can better services the need for readyto-wear sales. The 2021 collection mixes classic designs with a relaxed twist.

RRP: Under £375-£2,280 Delivery from date of order: Standard 12 weeks; priority 8 weeks; stock 3 days.

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Prom

BY ROMANTICA

Contact us to find out more about becoming a Prom By Romantica stockist: julie@romanticaofdevon.co.uk - 07808 066 435 neil@romanticaofdevon.co.uk - 07921 729 031

Visit us at stand no. E50

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

Rose

B R I D A L

A stunning bridal collection, handmade in the UK. Contact us to find out more about stocking this gorgeous collection: maikel@romanticaofdevon.co.uk - 07879 296 322 Visit us at stand no. E50

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

Designer-speak

Buyers visiting London Bridal Fashion Week and White Gallery should be aware of the current trends that are going to make a splash in 2020 as well as what their suppliers can do for them, says Alan Hannah

A

s we all know, bridal trends have become increasingly diverse with a place for every kind of bride from boho to classic and everything in between.

However, right now there are definitely pointers towards some interesting new directions.

Marguerite has been working on

wonderful voluminous sleeves which give a nod to the 80s but are also completely reinvented.

As most buyers have probably noticed, more and more brides are looking for dresses with eye-catching sleeves which reflect current catwalk trends. Sheer sleeves in chiffon and organza are so feminine and beautiful but make sure but you see them on a

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model as sleeves have to be perfectly cut or they can actually spoil the line of a dress and constrict the bride’s movements if they are not crafted properly.

Dresses with high slits and low Vs feature heavily in our new styles, creating a sexy catwalk silhouette but with a presence and formality that the occasion demands.

There is a more modern take on ruching, too, using very soft and light fabrics: organza chiffon and georgette give a beautiful light touch to the modern ball gown.

We always feature dresses with sharp clean lines and strong architecture, but Marguerite has evolved this and made some beautiful pieces that are amazingly light and ethereal. She has achieved this with new embroidery and cut-out motifs in silk and lace that are especially dramatic when used with translucent fabrics like organza and chiffon.

And whilst embellishment is always important and adds beautiful romantic details, we think that excellent cut and structural design can make a bride feel absolutely fabulous, enhancing and flattering the figure. This is always one of the primary reasons for choosing one dress over another.

Dressing it up It would be quite wrong to dismiss lace even if it is less prevalent this season.

There will always be the bride who dreams of lace as the ultimate luxury element in a bridal dress.

Today’s bride is completely spoilt for choice when it comes to the diversity and quality of modern lace. We always strive to create the perfectly-cut silhouette. Lace and embellishments add to the beauty of the essential shape and quality of the dress. As a designer who also makes all her own patterns, Marguerite is able to fuse these two elements into one harmonious creation.

Designers who have this holistic approach to a dress usually avoid the dreaded ‘embellishment as an ‘afterthought’ look. Buyers should

always be aware that however beautiful beading and decoration on a dress looks at the show, they should always stay focused on the quality and fit of the gown. This is what makes a bride feel special when she tries it on.

Mikado is perfect for structured clean lines and creates a beautiful finish but look out for new softer versions of mikado as well as new stretch crepes and satins. These lighter fabrics appeal to the modern bride and let her feel unencumbered and able to move around comfortably during the wedding formalities and later when dancing starts.

promote each other as a happy retailer makes a happy designer and cements this precious relationship. If both partners use their networks to support each other you can have a loud voice out there. The new consumer loves to know about the real people behind the brands and a human story is the one that really resonates with them.

At the shows Large trade shows can be a bit overwhelming but you can plan your visit to London Fashion Bridal Week and White Gallery to make it stressfree and enjoyable.

Have a look around to get a feel and mood for the trends that are Increasing footfall making the running but try not to get In recent years, paid-for consumer too immersed in the detail as it will magazines have seen sharp falls in readership. The two top titles in British sap your energy when it comes to bridal publishing have recently ceased giving your full concentration to the and retailers must embrace the new opportunities on platforms that can really increase profile and footfall. The bonus is that this can be inexpensive and highly effective. Changing times offer great new opportunities.

Speaking to many retailers over the past few months, it is obvious that having a strong Instagram presence is so important. It is so vital to create an individual and relevant story for your audience. Video footage is a brilliant way to engage personally and gives a real impression of your boutique and the people who work there.

With Instagram and Facebook, you can target by age group, location and interests. Using this strategically and spending a little money on promotion can be very effective. Some retailers use the resources really well, showing dresses on real people and opening a great window into how friendly and comfortable the boutique experience can be.. and is.

At the same time you can intersperse this with beautiful high end photography from your designers to give some couture glamour to your page. If you work with the some of the smaller designers you can really magnify this in partnership with them.

It benefits all of us to share and

collections that you really intend to invest in.

Make sure that you give ample time and book appointments with your core suppliers in advance. This is a time to really give it your full attention. See your shortlist on real models and take advice from the designer on what is selling well at the show and also on how to balance the pieces you choose to make a coherent whole.

Make sure that you really understand what your designers can do for you. For instance some retailers don’t know that we can deliver some Alan Hannah dresses within two weeks. Make sure that you strengthen your relationships and work with people who are going to go that extra mile to make your partnership a mutual success.

PERFECT SILHOUETTES Alan suggests you get advice from your designers about what is selling best

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MEETING THE TEAM We were made to feel so welcomed and that our views were valued

A Whole New Experience It’s not every day that you get invited to go on an all-expenses-paid trip to New York and give an informed opinion on one of the world’s top labels... but that’s exactly what happened to Laura Daly...

M

orilee reached out and asked me, and my shop manageress Amelia, to attend the first viewing of their fall 2020 collection and to give our opinions and constructive criticism on the prototype designs.

In exchange for our input, we would be their guests for three days in New York. Wow. I mean, wow!

For several years now, the company has asked its top stores in the United

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States to attend the previews and they’ve found it’s been a great way for the brand to ensure that the designs that eventually go into production are good, solid commercial styles.

As UK sales have increased year on year, and mindful of the stiff competition and choice available to UK bridal retailers, head designer Madeline Gardner and chairman Mitchell Udell decided it was time to ask for input and feedback from a

KEEP THEM COMING Dress after dress came down the catwalk, ready to be reviewed

which designs have consistently couple of top-repeating stores our got to our rooms. I don’t know if it was repeated and which have failed or side of the Atlantic. In an extremely just our positive attitude to the trip performed poorly. We also made lucky just-won-the-lottery type of but everyone we met was extremely sure that we were armed with as scenario, one of the two stores they affable and, after an early dinner and much feedback as possible from our invited was ours! an amazing night’s sleep, there we team and our customers alike and – In past years, Morilee has been were, walking the short distance to naturally – we made sure we each had the Morilee showroom on Broadway. unapologetically ‘American’ in its an appropriate outfit for just about styling but, with tastes and markets This could have been on both sides of the pond converging, any occasion! overwhelming had it not been for the it made perfect sense to further unfailingly friendly, open welcome understand the needs and we received from Mitchell, So, what’s hot for next season?

All specific requirements of its wider Madeline and the whole team. market.

I can say I’ve seen the future and They were genuinely as thrilled Of course, we were highly to have us as we were to be there, it’s pretty, it’s feminine and it’s all and it didn’t take long before we’d flattered and extremely appreciative to have been given been welcomed by the US shop about the neckline! the opportunity to experience owners and managers present as such a rare insight into the well.

All aboard company’s internal design process, Looking around the studio, it was In January we went to the Big Apple, but we were also quite daunted and fairly obvious that we were going to be both as first-time visitors and widemore than a little bit nervous about doing some serious work and that we eyed and blown away by everything how we would react. would be there for quite some time. and everyone we encountered. We’d Amelia and I both wanted to do There was a long catwalk at one ourselves proud and to represent the already made friends with the cabin end with a tower of papers and crew, the taxi driver and then all the UK retailers well, so we went to work documents on each chair around it hotel reception staff before we’d even and, at the other end, an area set-up on studying our sales figures, noting

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THE SHEER QUANTITY Madeline never stops designing and she wants feedback from retailers

with endless refreshments.

Madeline welcomed us all officially, the music started and out the dresses came. Bridal gown after bridal gown after bridal gown. Each with a corresponding number on our papers, and each requiring a written comment on the styling and a binary opinion as to its commerciality.

Thank goodness we’d done our homework, as we were better placed to comment on styles or details that, although we may well have liked, just hadn’t sold well for us. Once all the dresses had been modelled, Madeline hosted an honest feedback session not only on the styles we’d just seen but also on the brand itself and the way the company operates.

It was so interesting to hear that, even though one area of the US may have completely different needs to another, the basic ‘bridal conundrums’ were exactly the same as here in the UK; for example, quick wedding dates, with no sense of urgency from the bride, and the need to show the dress to just about all her friends and family and, occasionally, next door’s cat, before purchasing!

Voicing an opinion The second day, we saw the same dresses again, only this time sorted

into silhouettes. This was a very clever idea and it made us reconsider our previous thoughts on the some of the pieces. The same shape with different styling details were then presented together in groups of six and, this time, as well as making notes, we were encouraged to vocally feedback what we liked.

There were some amazingly obvious future top-sellers that actually received whoops and yays and some that were met with silence or even utterances of disapproval.

Many were pulled apart and reconstructed with suggestions of tweaking a neckline or changing the fabric and, all the while, Madeline scribbled furiously on her notepad, appearing to relish the comments and criticisms of her work.

By the last few dresses of the second day, neither Amelia nor I could think straight. Madeline and her team deal with this process virtually all year round – not only with bridal, but with bridesmaids, and prom and various other labels. It’s a daunting thought!

I do know, having been witness to, and playing a very small part in, these two days, with the knowledge that there were still more similar days to come after we retailers had left and the worldwide reps and managers

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had arrived, that this is one very slick operation.

I was lucky enough to speak privately with Madeline after the last dress had been shown and she told me she never stops designing. She’s inspired by everything around her – by mainstream fashions, by what she sees day to day and by the fabrics she has at her disposal.

More than any other retail sector, she sees the bridal market as unique in that it reflects the fashions, tastes and aspirations of a whole generation.

When a bride walks down the aisle in her chosen dress, she’s sending out a million messages. Madeline taps into the zeitgeist to reflect this ‘whole new world’ right back at her customer.

I honestly couldn’t have been more impressed. She listens intently and acts on feedback and comments in order to produce viable options for us to present to our brides.

We returned home richer in our understanding of the work that goes into producing a collection and hoping that in some small way, we’d helped to shape the final cut.

So, what’s hot for next season?

Well, if I told you I’d have to shoot you... but I can say I’ve seen the future and it’s pretty, it’s feminine and it’s all about the neckline!

ronaldjoyce.com S TA N D D 2 2

Learning from others Danish company LILLY not only has multiple brands in its portfolio and a network of stockists across the globe, but it also has 16 own-name shops that are carefully orchestrated to convey the same brand message

W

ith no less than six key labels – LILLY, Purewhite, Passions, Diamonds, Mix & Match, and Maternity all with ‘by LILLY’ as part of their name – as well as flower girl dresses, Communion

dresses, accessories and DIY laces and appliqués for customising, you can see why time-planning is vital to Lilly boss Anne Kathrine Rantzau.

“So much of business success today depends on how you work your diary, and how you prioritise tasks,”

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she says. “You have to be singleminded, whether you are organising appointments for your brides, or making the most of your time at a trade fair.”

The personality of the 16 beautiful Lilly bridal boutiques the company

PLAYING UP PLUS POINTS The Lilly stores focus on subtle colour co-ordination and great lighting

That is the strategy she suggests owns across Denmark, Germany and to other retailers. “Your environment Sweden is replicated precisely from must be constantly worked on,” is her city to city. From the layout to the message. “Fashions change and so décor the story is the same in this highly-focused operation and the staff does décor. It is vital that your shop is contemporary and polished and also are all trained at Lilly headquarters to ensure they are delivering the same message in the Lilly So much of business environment.

“In our shops we use an success depends on how you online booking calendar to work your diary and prioritise make sure that we have the space, time and staff we your tasks need, and are well prepared when our customer arrives. comfortable so that customers feel at That way we can all relax and enjoy home and in surroundings they enjoy. ourselves with the bride-to-be and They need to feel relaxed, and also her guests. It’s the pre-planning that that they are the centre of attention makes it possible and run smoothly,” – that’s where quality staff training Anne Kathrine says.

comes to the fore.”

On the subject of buying at the big trade events, there is more food for thought from this expert: “Think about the personality of your boutique, and the audience you want to attract, and keep that firmly in mind when you attend the shows.

Go online and check the lists of labels exhibiting before any event and research new names in particular to ensure they fit well with your established brands and the tastes of your target audience. Make appointments in advance with your favourite brands, too – this will ensure that you see their latest collections early and still have time to browse for inspiration.

Naturally, you must choose the

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SO MUCH TO DISCOVER In Lilly stores there are so many surprises that clever displays create

collections and sense of style on which your reputation has been built. But remember always that brides are curious to see what is new and different and they will pick up much information on social media even before they start their dress search. You need to cater to that. and also be able to offer brands with customisation options. That way a girl can feel very involved in the creation of her wedding dress.”

Lilly believes that two or three main suppliers make for an interesting balance so long as they complement

each other and appeal to your specific target audience.

“If you have too many suppliers,” says Anne Kathrine, “you can loose control of your identity and the limited contact with each supplier that time then allows could hinder your forming what should be valuable long-term business relationships.”

Feedback, too is important – and that’s a two-way thing or, in Lilly’s case, three way. They gauge reaction from customers in their own shops and react to it; they rely on feedback from their wholesale customers about

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bride’s reactions and they, in turn work closely with their retailers to always delivery what they promise.

“Strengthen your relationships with your suppliers by communicating with them. We work every year to produce the best collections but without comment and evaluation from our stockists we could miss out on opportunities for constant enhancements. We value the ideas and knowledge that we get every day throughout the season, from our own stores and our retailers – it is what makes the difference.”

M O R I L E E S TA N D D 2 0

www.morilee.co.uk

How to build digital momentum during the buying season

Myrna Plaisir Daramy from the US gives her five ‘musts’ designed to help retailers make the most of the busy season, which is starting right now

I

t’s a new year, a new decade, and that time again when newlyengaged brides-to-be start their bridal gown search journey.

For most bridal boutiques, the beginning of the year is typically the

device to assess the user experience.

Most likely, this will be the first time your prospective bride may see your website, so you want to make sure that the experience is solid.

4 Review the designer collection listings as well as service offerings to ensure they are accurate, fresh and up to date 4 Update all trunk show events and remove any previous events if your website does not already do so 4 Check all social links to make sure that they go to the right channels.

Make sure that when those links are clicked on, they are opening up into a new window in the browser so that you are not taking visitors away from your website 4 Make sure that the following information is up-to-date on your website: Perform a mini-website audit w Phone number for your business. I often advise w Email address my bridal clients here in the w Hours of Operation US to review their websites with the w Update your Frequently Asked following checklist: Questions page to include more 4 Update the Google My Business relevant questions that prospective Account by verifying the address(es) and double-checking that all store brides seem to ask most often w Remove any social link information is correct such as hours of channels on which your brand is not operations 4 Confirm that the site is secure with currently active w Review the images on your an SSL certificate (https:// is before the website URL instead of http:// website to ensure that they reflect the most relevant visual content without the ‘s’) 4 Visit your website from a mobile w Remove any dated imagery

kick-off to buying season and the hope for full appointment bookings.

It is also the time when designers in the US look forward to trunk show events in order to test the market with their newest collections. In fact, this time of year tends to provide both stockists and designers the most insight into what brides are looking for as well as which styles seem to be the most popular.

Although this is likely your busiest time, it is important to remember that your marketing efforts must remain strong in order to use the season’s momentum to create relevancy for your brand. In order to do this, here are my top five tips on how to best prepare your bridal salon brand for buying season:

1

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such as dresses that are discontinued

w Ensure that the proper SEO tactics have been implemented on your website (title tags, meta tag descriptions, site-map verification etc

w Review blogs (if applicable) and determine what content has gotten the most love, and establish a content strategy for the upcoming season

2

Make sure that your designers have your correct information on their website as well as any upcoming events that you will be hosting with them. Although it is never the designer’s intention to miss the importance of listing your trunk show event dates on their website, it can happen especially since these dates tend to change often. In addition to verifying that trunk show event information is listed correctly, it is important to make sure that your designers will promote any events your bridal boutique will be hosting through their own social media outlets as well.

words to use in order to promote your business more effectively.

Testimony and insight from brides that have actually gone through the process of making an appointment and coming in-store is the best strategy to use in order to create content.

Another strategy to use is capturing video footage of this in-store traffic.

Playing with cool video features like time-lapse or slo-mo and posting this content on social platforms like Facebook and Instagram in your stories would create very engaging content.

5

. Explore further opportunities where your brand can be seen as relevant to your target audience by working on expanding your outreach and increasing your visibility with other vendors.

Strategies like social media channel take-overs with other vendors (photographers, venues, wedding planners, hair and makeup artists, florists, bands etc) who attract similar audiences would not only be . Perform a mini-audit of your social media channels and paid fun to work on but would also allow digital marketing efforts. Here is you to showcase your brand to a totally different audience . a great checklist that will help: For stores that have activity on

w Update active social media your blog, consider creating a vendor profiles with digitally cohesive spotlight campaign where you imagery of your business (similar interview a vendor in exchange for a logos that were easily identifiable) feature on their website.

w Update active social media profile descriptions to include your I know that at first glance, this list location

w Assess which channels warrant of my top five tips may seem a bit overwhelming. But if you take on this the most engagement and establish list by focusing on one item at a time, a content strategy to ensure more you will be able to move through engagement

w Review your current information them all fairly quickly.

Do you have any tactics or on any ads if you are running strategies that you implement during consistent online ads on bridal platforms or search engines the buying season that are not listed above? If so, I would love you to share! . Take advantage of the As always, I’m here and fast to increased foot traffic by react if you have any questions or asking your customers specific comments, so please don’t hesitate to get in connect with me. questions about their experience so @myrnapdaramy that you can better understand what

3

4

WOW FROCK !

We Love...

From the 2021 Oreasposa collection from Demetrios is this soft mermaid dress with wonderful lace detailing that forms a heartshaped centrepiece. demetrios.com

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OH MOTHER! Award-winning label John Charles has perfected the formula for MOB and MOG dressing and delivers the dazzle every time. We asked James Ellis what goes on behind the scenes How far in advance is a new collection planned?

It’s pretty much a full year between the planning and design processes and when the deliveries into our stockists.

What starts the creative ball rolling?

It’s usually the fabrics that initially inspire the collection – we source the best from France, Spain and Italy.

After we conduct trend and market research, we begin to develop a colour story board and an idea of the prints and textures that will be key for

us. The design process evolves from that point. Many of our fabrics are designed exclusively for John Charles, especially our prints and jacquards.

That individuality makes every style in the collection a little bit more special.

throughout everthing we do but to add in a new, modern touch to it each season.

How many designs are produced each year and how many do you edit those down to for the final line up?

Does a new collection always We usually create around 100 outfits include a twist on past best sellers? a year and then edit the range down We are always looking at what styles to what we regard as the best. That did well from previous seasons selection process is an integral part and how we can develop them in a of our planning and it is very much a fresh new way for the forthcoming team effort between our sales team collections. We like to keep an and design. They come from different element of the John Charles signature angles of course, with design looking

PERFECT CO-ORDINATION Getting the look from head to toe is what counts today for mums

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retailers; their opinions count and it at creative values and sales at what they feel our stockists will love and be is their feedback that is the best and shapes what we do. able to sell best.

What do you consider John Charles design is best known for today?

I think our choice of embellishments, as well as our fit and choice of fabrics, underpins our particular signature.

The label is known for its often unique finishing touches – the highly individual way we use beadwork and trims especially. It’s an area where we invest time and that investment makes the difference to our label’s personality and our name.

Does much research go into general market trends and mums buying habits? Do you ever consult your retailers about design direction and what is working best for them?

We always welcome feedback from our retailers. It’s vital for us to hear from them how their customers are choosing to spend their money and, of course, what they are looking for in an occasionwear outfit.

Our sales team regularly visit our

the mums. We find we are reaching out to a big, interested audience via Instagram, and they want to know more about what we offer and where they can see it first hand.

What do you do to support your retailers? Can they get a listing on And are you finding that mums have your website, for example? changed in their tastes and wants in Retailers are promoted on our social media platforms and on our website’s recent years?

Yes, and key to change is that stockist page. We get an enormous wedding venues and amount of styles of weddings have traffic to the Via Instagram, a big become more varied John Charles and, as a result, there site and as we audience wants to has necessarily been are careful with know what we offer and a change in wedding our distribution, this really helps where they can see it fashion. That makes our job particular drive traffic to exciting and always our retailers. first hand challenging; today we That’s a vital part design the collection with different of the relationship we have with our styles of events in mind. There are not stockists. many traditions left. There used to be How do you get your message out to more rules when it came to wedding fashion but they seem to have mums themselves? disappeared. The sector It is definitely Instagram is proving to be the real more fashion led now. Being able to communication powerhouse right wear an outfit to multiple occasions is now and without question it will what counts today.. soon overtake Facebook, even for

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When can retailers see your latest collections?

We will start selling our spring 2021 collection in July 2020.

And do you feel that 2020 will a good year?

We are all hoping it will be better for retail than 2019 was.

The number of weddings is on the increase, and that naturally, means an increase in demand for the right collections.

Any special advice for retailers?

Be courageous and experiment with new and different styles.

Consumers are looking to stand out and feel special and you can help them achieve that.

JOHN CHARLES 2021 STYLE GUIDE James Ellis give a hint of what you can expect from the award-winning label for the new season: Top trends There’s been a increase in alternative wedding destinations, with the most popular locations being abroad or in a barn or field setting. We want to cater to all of our customers, and tailor our new collection to be suitable for anything, no matter the climate or the occasion.

This season we will be focusing on the statement sleeve trend that is continuing to hold the spotlight, creating sophisticated and timeless silhouettes with a fashion-forward edge.

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Specific fabrics and colours We source our luxury fabrics from all over the world but in particular from Europe, so they are exclusive to us. The new season will see more of our one-of-akind jacquards and a bold pop of colour.

Silhouettes and style details Our silhouettes will range from A-line to fluted. A variety of sleeves details will be worked into the new collection, offering cover up options to customers.

We are well-known for our attention to detail and unique beadwork. This is something we will continue to develop so we can create more one-of-kind, handbeaded pieces.

E: admin@michaelsbridalfabrics.co.uk • T: 01322380480 • W: www.michaelsbridalfabrics.co.uk

We provide a fast, friendly and reliable service on our increasing range of products such as….

Plains • Laces • Embroidered Beaded •Tulles • Edgings • Motifs • Buttons • Accessories COME & SEE US AT: Textile Forum, London, UK 11th – 12th March 2020 London Bridal Fashion Week, London, UK 22nd – 24th March 2020 European Bridal Week, Essen, Germany 4th – 6th April 2020 Interbride, Dusseldorf, Germany 24th – 26th May 2020

Michael's Bridal Fabrics

@michaelsbridalfabrics

@MichaelsBridal

London Bridal Fashion Week March 22nd-24th, 2020 Stand G42

A N D THE T R OP H Y R ECIPIEN TS A R E . . .

Who picked up the titles for the year in The Wedding Industry Awards 2020?

Here’s the list, announced at London’s Café de Paris, on the big night in January. Keep the names on file for when you are asked for a recommendation BAND Winner: Ambassador Band Highly Commended: Under the Covers Function Band BRIDAL RETAILER Winner: Bellissima Weddings Highly commended: Dotty Bridal CAKE DESIGNER Winner: Where The Ribbon Ends Highly Commended: CakeBuds CATERER Winner: Pickle Shack Highly commended: Thomas The Caterer CELEBRANT Winner: Humanist Weddings & Vow Renewals Jane Blackman Celebrant Highly Commended: Lynn Tierney Ceremonies DJ Winner: DJ Paul Allen Wedding Services Highly Commended: Alan Marshall Celebrations

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DRESS DESIGNER OR MAKER Winner: Kate Fearnley EVENT TEAM Winner: The Wellbeing Farm Wedding and Events Venue Highly commended: Wellington Barn

SPECIAL TOUCH Winner: Birdie Camper Van Photo Booth Highly commended: The Handmade Sign Company STATIONERY Winner: Violet Paper Studio Highly Commended: By Florence

FLORIST Winner: The Garden Studio Highly commended: Wild & Co

TRANSPORT SUPPLIER Winner: Nothing but Wedding Cars

HAIR STYLIST Winner: Kelly Hanks Hair Design Highly commended: Hannah Blinko Hair Stylist

VENUE (COUNTRYSIDE) Winner: Beeston Manor Highly commended: The Old Kent Barn

MAKEUP ARTIST Winner: Makeup by Phoebe Highly commended: Bryony Dalton

VENUE (TOWN OR CITY) Winner: Field Place Manor House Highly commended: The Hundred House Hotel

MARQUEE PROVIDER Winner: Sami Tipi Highly commended: Good Intents Marquee Hire

VENUE STYLIST Winner: Styletopia Ltd Highly commended: The Rustic Wedding Company

MUSICAL ACT (SOLO, DUO OR STRING QUARTET) Winner: Silver Service Singers - Singing Waiters Highly commended: The Piano Singer

VIDEOGRAPHER Winner: Perfect Moment Films Highly commended: Adam Wing Films

PHOTOGRAPHER Winner: The Crawleys Highly commended: Harry Michael Photography & Jackson & Co Photography

NEWCOMER Winner: The Curated Kitchen

PLANNER Winner: Natalie Hewitt Wedding & Event Planner Highly commended: Albion Parties

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THE 2020 NUMBERS 1,150 entries, 25,295 client votes, 840 regional finalists, 160 regional winners, 23 national winners TWIA 2021 is open now – visit www.the-wedding-industry-awards.co.uk

FOR LIVING FABRICS Visit us at LBFW A38 and find out how Propress Mini is keeping the dress alive!

PALOMA BLANCA

G ET T ING TO KN OW….

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PALOMA BLANCA

PALOMA BLANCA

PALOMA BLANCA

Canadian bridalwear company Paloma Blanca has a loyal and widespread client base. Its elegant and sophisticated gowns sell in 200 major cities around the world and the company is now looking to expand still further into both Britain and Europe. Jill Eckersley talked to Marie Murphy Campion

P

aloma Blanca is a well-known and highlyrespected name and its dresses are regularly featured in the international press and in many TV shows and films. Right now, growth in terms of distribution is high on the company’s list of priorities.

“We currently have ten stockists in the UK – including Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland – for Paloma Blanca, and a further 16 stocking our Mikaella brand, but we’re always looking for new stockists so that our gowns are available all over the country,” says spokeswoman Marie Murphy Campion.

Paloma Blanca – originally known as Blue Bird Dress – has been a big name and an award winner in the Canadian bridal trade for more than 80 years, picking up trophies in the Canadian Wedding Industry Awards for Designer of the Year, and the Distinctive

Excellence in the Bridal Industry Award three times.

This is a family business, founded in 1937 in Toronto by Manny Bernstein, who was later joined by his brother. the company is now run by Manny’s two nephews, Marty and Sydney and, from the next generation, Marty’s son Brandon.

The company has been expanding since the late 1970s and is now the largest manufacturer of wedding dresses in North America.

Currently, Marty manages the sales and the design team with Sydney overseeing all operations and accounting, while Brandon works in marketing and the digital side of the business. The company employs just over 50 people with Elsa Carlesimo, who has been with them since 1998, as their only in-house designer. Paloma Blanca currently looking for another designer to help out with the diversity in their styling.

Pride of place The company’s USP, they say, is that every one of its dresses is 100% Canadian made and that is something in which they take particular pride.

“Some companies say that their products are ‘designed’ in specific locations, and then leave out the part which admits they are actually made in China or elsewhere,” Marie points out.

“For Paloma Blanca, producing dresses in our own manufacturing facility in Toronto gives us the ability to maintain our high-quality standards.

We are passionate about the art of dressmaking. We carefully check each individual dress before it is shipped out to one of our brides. In special circumstances, we can make changes to a dress when it has already been put into production, to give both our stockists and their brides complete peace of mind. As a family business, we care about every single dress we sell and make sure we give

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public and strongly discourages brides from ordering dresses online.

UK RRPs for Paloma Blanca gowns start at around £1,500 and go up to £2,100, with ‘younger sister’ brand Mikaella starting at around £1,200 and going up to just under £2,000.

The company’s British stockists often use the word ‘timeless’ to describe Paloma Blanca gowns.

Boutiques featuring the Mikaella brand, such as May & Grace in Haslemere, say that their typical bride is young, modern spirited and looking to add a little fun to her big-day style.

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MIKAELLA

MIKAELLA

Spreading the word The Paloma Blanca team are more than aware of the importance of social media and the best ways to use it.

“We believe that social media has become a key component in many brides’ decision-making process and that shows no signs of slowing down any time soon,” Marie says. “To utilise social media to its best effect, any company has to understand its the corset. Bustier-style designs and every order the time and attention it dresses where you can see an element product completely, and also know its deserves. We also understand that of corsetry are becoming increasingly audience. using the finest fabrics, stunningly “Social media is a vehicle to tell our accented with beautiful hand-detailing popular among our brides.”

Given that they say they are looking story. It is also important to note how and embroidery, can make all the quickly things can change in a digital difference to the final product. Most of for more stockists in the UK, what landscape. Companies must always be can Paloma Blanca offer UK bridal our fabrics are sourced from France aware of current ideas and trends to be retailers? and Japan, but the beads we use on sure that they are not left behind. Both “We do offer exclusivity, and our our dresses and accessories are flown minimum orders are very fair, allowing retailers and brides can check out in from India.” for two collections a year,’” says Marie. @palomablancabridal and Paloma Blanca produces two “We also offer a loan service and trunk @mikaellabridal on Instagram to see collections per year and, typically, the latest from our collections.” shows and I always keep a full set of aims to release 15 new dresses per Interestingly, when the company collection every season because, they samples in the UK every season. We first started, it produced eveningwear say, they believe that ‘less is more’ and produce gowns from size 4 up to size they want to make sure that every style 22, although our gowns tend to repeat alongside its bridal gowns, as well as best in Canadian sizes 10 and 12, which mother-of-the-bride and bridesmaids’ is a best-seller. dresses. “Over the years we have found translates to a British 12 and 14. that in order to be the best at what we “As all production comes from our For the season ahead do, we needed to focus our attention So what can we expect from this house own factory, we can offer customer on one area in order to excel,” Marie changes and rush orders in less than in their fall/winter 2020 and spring/ explains. “Of course it’s possible that as summer 2021 collections and are there six weeks. We are actively looking for any special trends that retailers should stockists in mainland Europe as well as the company grows we may move into the UK, so that in addition to exhibiting other areas, but right now we are very be looking out for? happy with centering our attention “We are always looking to embrace at the White Gallery we are also around wedding dresses. We do, the latest fashion trends, while staying considering Barcelona for 2021.” however, also produce veils, hairbands It is worth pointing out that Paloma true to the high standard that makes and belts for brides who are looking Blanca gowns are only available from our dresses so special,” says Marie. for a little variation, and these can be their own authorised stockists. The “One of our favourite trends which viewed on our website.” company does not sell direct to the we have seen emerging this year is

ALLUREBRIDALS.COM

Second Opinion Sue Lovell, owner of SNOB – Susan Nichols Opulent Bride and founder of BrideCo, says we must all look at ways of being environmentally responsible

A

fter you have taken delivery of the latest dress collection, congratulated yourself on the wonderful choices you made, (wondered if you ordered ‘that one’ after the Prosecco had kicked in) what do you do when your attention turns from the beautiful to the ugly?

The plastic sea that has now surrounded you, has served the purpose of protecting the gown in transit, but now what? How do you dispose of it responsibly, what is considered responsible?

Do you recycle, carefully folding the plastic and storing it to reuse in your shop; do you repurpose dress bags as dustbin bags (I do that); or do y0u put them in the magic cupboard and hope they vanish? (I do that, too.)

Whatever you do to dispose of the plastic ocean, is it enough, and can

and we have to know the impact that we have.

Our brides are going to be far more receptive to new ideas, which in turn are actually old ways. Before the invention of plastic bags, people had shopping bags, designed to last for years. When there wasn’t an abundance of affordable and accessible materials, we recycled We need a plan eco-warriors before we knew there Many of us retailers are looking at was a conflict. ways to reduce our waste, and we We live in very fortunate times, also recognise that the brides heading we no longer have to rely on paper through our doors are already tuned to get our message out there. As into the climate crisis. consumers we can read ‘the paper’ A recent discussion with other online; as retailers we can advertise to BrideCo members proved that many of us want to be more environmentally thousands of potential clients within seconds, targeting our demographic, considerate, but the dilemma we pinpointing our area without a drop of are facing is how to deliver the new gown in pristine condition, without the ink being used. Our brides can Google plastic. We need to look for solutions, us, Pinterest is the place to be seen we do more to stop the waste that as an industry we are all complicit?

Suits are the biggest culprit – does every item need to be covered in plastic, to then be put in a re-useable bag? Does a pocket square really need a plastic bag to accompany it on its journey?

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on its single-use bags when attending plans to introduce reusable dress and Alexa the person to ask. bags this year. Romantica is an Brides no longer want paper-based shows and, like many others, offers example of what can be done to information; they have everything to paperless invoicing and focuses on embrace change and is continually hand on the phone, everything they digital marketing. want and need from us can be stored Romantica has really invested in its looking forward at ways to improve.

The message here is simple: just under a file called ‘Our Wedding’, commitment to the world around us, because something has always carried in their pocket. been done in a certain way, We should be embracing Brides have everything to hand doesn’t mean it can’t change. that. We can email our Suppliers and retailers pictures, appointments, on the phone; everything they want can do so much more, and we contracts and receipts, and and need from us can be stored need to share our ideas. Our last year BrideCo made the Free £1,000 Dress Deposit under a file called ‘Our Wedding’, brides are way ahead of us, and soon the fact that we are Insurance leaflets emailable carried in their pocket environmentally responsible too. Brides don’t need to will be as important as offering touch the paperwork, they just deposit insurance or stocking a need to have the information. with solar panels at the Devon factory certain designer.

The climate has changed – and we Suppliers are doing their bit producing enough energy to even Suppliers, too, are looking at ways that power their hi-tech steam tunnels. The can’t shove this issue in a cupboard and hope it goes away. It won’t, and they can reduce their carbon footprint. company ensures that the cardboard we need to do our bit to deal with it.

Veromia, for example, is cutting down is baled and recycled correctly, and

WE HAVE TO CARE We must work to reduce the modern-day dangers. Our brides expect that of us 76 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 0

THE HELENA COTTER TRAINING ACADEMY - B R I DA L . E S T. 2 0 0 3

aEnjoy up to 80% conversion rates aIndustry specific in-house Training Courses aObservation days aDirector mentoring aManagement coaching aTeamwork development, and more aPurchase online courses at the website shop I shall be at London Bridal Fashion Week on Monday 23rd & Tuesday 24th March 2020.

Contact me today to arrange an informal chat at the show.

+44(0) 01582 451 238 / +44(0) 07896 944 759 info@helenacotter.co.uk www.helenacotter.co.uk

@HCSalesTraining hccoaching Helena Cotter

T H E W EDD I NG T RAD E R G U I D E TO

Bows

Whether they are petite and pretty or big and beautiful, bows are a leading feature in the new collections

Alexveil Bridal

Mark Lesley

Style: Madisson Fabrics: Crepe Colour: Light Ivory Special feature: Outsize shoulder bow Sizes: Any size RRP: €1,000-€2,000 across collection T: +7 926 525 7832 E: info@alexveil.ru

Style: 7434 Fabrics: Satin Colour: Ivory Special feature: Bow back detail Sizes: UK 8-30 RRP: POA T: +44 (0)1621 784784 E: info@marklesley.co.uk

ALEXVEIL.RU

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MARKLESLEY.COM

Watters

WATTERS.COM

Style: 5030B Adoracion Fabrics: Mikado Colour: Ivory Special feature: Sparkling back bow Sizes: UK 6-32 RRP: £800-£1,200 across collection T: +44 (0) 1527 832373 E: kelly-anne.weaver@watters.com

Pure Bridal

Blue By Enzoani ENZOANI.COM

ROMANTICAOFDEVON.CO.UK/ COLLECTIONS/OLIVIA-ROSE-BRIDAL

Style: Marla Fabrics: Stretch mikado Colour: Ivory Special feature: Detachable bow Sizes: UK 4-32 RRP: £1,425 T: +44 (0)1792 586615 E: infouk@enzoani.co.uk

Style: PB0049 Fabrics: Lace and tulle Colour: Ivory or white Special feature: Bow detail In both shoulders Sizes: UK 6-32 RRP: £675 T: +44 (0)1823 674412 E: enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk

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Casablanca Bridal

CASABLANCABRIDAL.COM

Style: Kensington Fabrics: Mikado Colour: Ivory/nude/silver Special feature: Detachable bow Sizes: US 2-28 and plus sizes 16-32 RRP: £1,950 T: +1 714 758 8888 E: michelle@casablancabridal.eu

Olivia Rose Bridal

ROMANTICAOFDEVON.CO.UK/COLLECTIONS/ OLIVIA-ROSE-BRIDAL

Style: Elm Fabrics: Satin Colour: Ivory or pale ivory Special feature: Detachable oversized bow Sizes: UK 6-32 RRP: £1,035 T: +44 (0)1823 674 412 E: enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk

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Donna Salado

DONNASALADO.COM

Style: Savannah Fabrics: Dupion Colour: Ivory Special feature: Pleated bow, bow and tails Sizes: UK 8-30 RRP: POA T: +44 (0)1621 784784 E: info@marklesley.co.uk

The Perfect Bridal Company

THEPERFECTBRIDALCOMPANY.COM

Style: Zinnia shoe clips RRP: From a collection, £12.50-£18 T: +44 (01455 823814 E: sales@theperfectbridalcompany.com

Phoenix

PHOENIXGOWNS.CO.UK

Style: GR5044 Fabrics: Satin Colour: Ivory, also available in white Special feature: Audrey inspired dress with bow detail and ¾ sleeve Sizes: UK 6-32 RRP: £800-£1,200 across the collection T: +44 (0)7792 466656 E: info@phoenixgowns.co.uk

Beautiful By Enzoani ENZOANI.COM

Style: BT20-08 Fabrics: Mikado or satin Colour: Ivory Special feature: Hidden pockets Sizes: UK 4-30 RRP: £1,140 T: +44 (0)1792 586615 E: infouk@enzoani.co.uk

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Germany G R E AT N A M ES FROM

European Bridal Week, northern Europe’s biggest trade event with 425 labels on show, opens for business 4-6 April in Essen. The top international collections, will be there – key names from the UK, the USA, France, Italy, Poland, Turkey, the Ukraine and more, and of course the major German design houses you need to get to know. We introduce you...

Diane Legrand

Christian Koehlert Paris

Diane Legrand means serious business and with 1,000 delighted stockists in more that 35 countries, the three-label portfolio – Lisa Donetti, Diane Legrand and Novabella – never fails to delight.

Lightweight flowing fabrics and lace feature throughout the 100-strong pieces in the 2021 range which sparkles with Swarovski beadwork. dianelegrandbridal.com

From Hamburg comes Christian Koehlert Paris, a label that puts elegance first and focuses on evening and cocktailwear with a touch of luxury, as well as bridal with a red-carpet personality.

Fabrics for the new season include an amazing holographic print, sequins and flowing chiffons and a gorgeously glamorous range of colours. koehlert.com

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SweetBelly Couture

Isabel de Mestre

An enchanting name of an equally enchanting collection, designed for the fashion-forward pregnant bride.

Body-contoured silhouettes play up those tummy curves – stretch fabrics and gossamer mesh add comfort and support. Designer/ owner Sandra Müller and her team also produce PáM, a relaxed line for informal weddings. sweetbelly.de

Isabel de Mestre is a label with a long and proud history, and the name of its founder who, back in 1980, had the vision of encapsulating the exuberant Spanish sense of style with the spirit of German design. Her brand is known and admired around the world; the 2021 collection features 3D flowers, organza floral prints, fairytale volumes, swinging skirts and delicate sparkling tops. Expect to see boho dresses, separates, and short, tight dresses with long formal overskirts. Sleeves, too, are a special highlight. isabeldemestea.com

Schantal At Schantal you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to fabrics: satin, chiffon, crepe chiffon, soft tulle, polka dot tulle, mikado, shantung, sequined mesh, hayal tulle, organza, silk organza, silk, taffeta, Chantilly lace, corded lace, beaded lace and guipure, guipure macrame, lace, textured guipure, embroidered lace appliques.

There’s a great colour range, too, and silhouettes for every taste and shape. schantal.de M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 83

Bianco Evento Wedding gowns, accessories, bridal shoes and communion dresses make up the sensational offering from Bianco Evento a name well known to UK retailers.

Deliveries are fast and the collections are loved for their unbeatable price-performance ratio. The 2020 line up of fabrics includes lace, satin, chiffon, tulle, glitter tulle and mikado and a size range that goes right up to 6XL. The boleros and wraps are a great sales add-on. bianco-evento.com

Forever & Eva New to the market and already making a huge impression is forever & eva, the inspiration of bridal professionals Agnette Heil and Eva Cerny.

Launched in 2018, this mouthwatering collection of knitwear and accessories – little sweaters and soft boleros, wraps, gleaming metallic and leather belts and finelywrought jewellery – is irresistible.

You’ll be buying for yourself, as well as your shop!

Delivery is usually immediate! foreverandeva.de

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Amelie Amelie has a pedigree that goes back for 30 years, and a reputation for design excellence. With three labels in the portfolio – the eponymous Amelia, Bella by Amelie for the bride with curves and the top-end luxury line Kachar Ladosa – silhouettes move from the classic to the contemporary, from the understated to the extravagant.

Fabrics with shimmer, layered and tiered skirts with movement, and beautifully-crafted details are part of the new collection’s personality. ameliebridal.de

Sina C Jackets, trains, belts and 3D flowers are just a small part of the story from Sina C. whose bridal dresses and occasionwear are complemented with bridesmaid and communion collections.

There are some adventurous colours in the line up. Diamond tulle is a special, available on request – and we are sure there will be requests aplenty! sina-c.com

Weise Weise is one of the best-known names in the business, a tour de force of bridal and occasionwear that moves effortlessly from classics to the most modernistic of boho, wild rock drama, and opulent grand dressing for those who want to make a statement. Cross-applied lace ribbons, ruffles and geometric cuts hit the design notes. weise-mode.de

Lina Becker Designer Nicole Lauckner of Lina Becker has three ranges in her very beautiful portfolio – Lina Becker itself, Lisiantus and Magnolia – and sources her fabrics from the best makers in France, Turkey, China and India. Lace is a winner for the new season, along with a wonderfully soft net and a collaboration with Swarovski results in highlights with real shimmer and shine. lina-becker.com M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 85

ALLUREBRIDALS.COM

Waking Hours Justin Warshaw, boss of multi-award-winning international bridal house Justin Alexander gets more done in a day than those with lesser energy levels would achieve in a week

7.00am My alarm doesn’t go off at the same time every day. It’s always around 7-7.30 but it depends on the time I’m in bed as I am a night person.

I am working with different time zones as we have offices in New York/New Jersey and also in The Netherlands, London and Hong Kong. Customers are spread over 70 countries so as you can imagine, I often have late night calls and meetings.

First thing I do when I wake up is grab my phone. A bad habit, I know, but I want to tackle urgent emails and messages as quickly as possible.

7.30am When there is time, I will put on my work-out gear and exercise for 45 minutes to an hour. I use my Peloton bike or pop over to Equinox in Gramercy. As my workout finishes our US offices have started to open, and my inbox and phone will get lit up. I jump from my spinning bike, right into the shower – ready for the day!

As a team we’re working extremely hard to serve our customers, and of course the brides.

Every day I monitor if we need to make changes or adjustments based on our daily sales results. After working on my inbox, my agenda is different 9.00am I go to one of our offices every every day. Year round, there isn’t a day, mostly our New York office, which day that is the same and that’s what I is a 15-minute walk from my apartment. absolutely love about my work!

In this office we have our global 10.00am Call with my European team marketing team, social media team, and the sales team of our luxury group. in the Netherlands: I have a daily catch-up call with Senior Management The office is located in the middle of overseas. Our business in Europe is vibrant Manhattan. just as big as it is in America and it About once a week I go to our is a totally different way of working New Jersey office where the other since it’s a mix of over 17 cultures and departments (finance, customer service, operations, product) are based, each market is unlike the next. The wholesale clients have different buying and our USA warehouse. The days in habits and the brides themselves have New Jersey are always completely packed with meetings with each of the different tastes.

After that call, I have a meeting with departments; while in New York, I have the creative team: we have campaign a bit more flexibility to enjoy an extra shoots coming up for all of our brands. espresso during the day.

We’re still waiting on some of the new First things first, checking numbers. samples to come in for the shoots, but That might sound boring, but it’s we have to move forward because actually one of my favourite things to we’re short on time. Models and do. I love reviewing our reports to see what story the numbers will tell. Where locations need to be booked and we we need to focus more, what’s working need to brainstorm the concept.

It’s always quite a production but I well for us and who needs a phone call know our customers appreciate our for a conversation or a congratulation.

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imagery and I love continuing to push the envelope and improve on the previous campaign.

While I’m still in the meeting, we have a bride come into the office. She is an influencer and we’ve set up a nice collaboration with her. She is going to try dresses on in our office because we will make her something special. I’m excited to see her posting photos of her dress on Instagram!

1.00pm Lunch break, which is typically never a break for me! I’m lucky that in Manhattan you can get everything delivered. I order a quick and healthy lunch while catching up on more emails. Great news! We have had a brilliant start to the year and reorders are up while our sales team is out selling early.

2.00pm My phone rings. It is one of our biggest customers who I have known since I started in the business.

The owner of the store is such a great

ambassador to our company. She has a bride who needs a rush order and she is calling for help. I promise her I’ll do whatever I can and text our production manager in the UK to see if we can find a solution. This is actually daily business for us. We hear about special inquiries or needs often and we manage to help many brides.

2.30pm Our digital advertising agency is coming in to discuss results and strategy. A group of four millenials are walking into my office with bright ideas.

I am always excited to see the new technologies and how we may be able to optimise our advertising to achieve the best results for our spend.

We heavily increased our budgets this year to make sure we reach every bride throughout social media and Google, and I am hoping our sessions and conversions will increase drastically.

The team pulls up some reporting and what they show me is incredible!

We’ve managed to reach 200% more brides than last year.

The number of brides who clicked through to our store locator on the website is up similarly. That means brides feel attracted to our designs and are looking for stores to try on and buy it. Goal accomplished.

3.30pm I need to rush to the airport.

I’m flying to Guadalajara in Mexico in a bit to meet with customers at a show. Mexico has been a huge growth market for us. At the airport I was planning to do some sketching, get ideas off my head. But I got a call from my PR manager to say that a famous publication’s digital editor is requesting an interview about trends in bridal fashion. Perfect way to spend my time waiting for my flight to take off.

7.00pm Ready for take-off! I’m sitting right next to a newlywed couple. Can’t resist asking them what dress she wore at her wedding. Guess what…

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IN THE PICTURE

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Fabulous frames to dot around your shop – you could fill them with pics of your brides!

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01 www.coxandcox.co.uk £POA 02 www.homesense.com £4.99 03 www.tkmaxx.com £8.99 04 www.homesense.com £9.99 05 www.lauraashley.com £10 06 www.melodymaison.co.uk £14.95 07 www.littlewoodsireland.ie £17.99 08 www.oliverbonas.com £20 09 www.thetayloraustingroup.com £27.75 10 www.riverisland.com £15 11 www.lauraashley.com £20 12 www.lauraashley.com £20 13 www.riverisland.com £15 14 www.sweetpeaandwillow.com £40 15 www.audenza.com £25 16 www.lauraashley.com £25 17 www.giselagraham.co.uk £16.50 18 www.melodymaison.co.uk £32.95 19 www.giftsonline4u.com £24.99 20 www.artisanti.com £43

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Brexit UN DER STA ND WH AT CO MES N E X T ?

This guide from Fox Williams LLP explains what the UK Parliament has approved and what this means for businesses

under the terms of the Withdrawal Agreement. During the transition period, the UK will also remain subject to, and bound by, the obligations of EU law and the judgments of the Court of Justice of the European Union. w The UK will also continue to remain aving left the EU at 11pm part of the EU single market and the customs union. Therefore, the rights of GMT on 31 January individuals and businesses will remain, 2020, we have now for the most part, the same throughout entered the so-called this interim period, and free movement ‘implementation’ or ‘transition’ period which is intended to of goods, capital, services, and people will continue at least until the end of allow the UK more time to negotiate the transition period. Individuals will the terms of its future relationship be able to travel freely within the EU/ with the EU and enables businesses to prepare for the changes which they EEA and UK. w The UK will also contribute to the EU need to make post Brexit. budget during the transition period The transition period is expected and this will reduce the amount to end on 31 December 2020. There of any financial settlement. What is a possibility to extend it for up to a happens after the transition period further two years, but this is unlikely will be dependent on what, if any, free to be a viable option given the UK trade and other deals the UK and EU political optics of another delay. At negotiate and agree. the present time if there is to be an w The UK will lose some of its political extension it must be requested by rights in the EU. For example, the UK the UK by 30 June 2020. will no longer be represented at EU institutions, committees and agencies WHAT DOES THE WITHDRAWAL and will not have voting rights on new AGREEMENT PROVIDE? The Withdrawal Agreement provides a legislation or agreements.

It is the intention of the UK basic framework for the UK’s exit from government that during the transition the EU. Its main provisions cover the period, the UK will enter into and transition period, financial settlement negotiate new trade agreements with and citizens’ rights. What happens the EU. The UK will be able to ratify now is: w With effect from 31 January 2020, the new international agreements in its UK ceased to be an EU member state. own name, provided that any new agreement does not apply until after w However, so far as current law is the transition period ends. concerned, not much will change If a trade deal with the EU is not until 31 December 2020. All existing agreed before the transition period EU legislation as at 31 January 2020 ends there is a material risk that the will automatically became UK law

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UK will be forced to trade with the EU under the World Trade Organisation rules and therefore various checks and tariffs will apply to UK exports and EU imports. w The current Withdrawal Agreement envisages a new customs and regulatory border between England, Scotland and Wales (together, Great Britain) and Northern Ireland. Such border is to come into effect from 1 January 2021 if alternative measures are not agreed in the trade deal to be negotiated before the end of the transition period. If this customs and regulatory border is implemented, certain goods passing through the border will be subject to tariffs which will or will not be recoverable, depending on whether the goods are destined for the Republic of Ireland or Northern Ireland.

The virtual border between Great Britain and Northern Ireland will necessitate documentation being created before goods can pass between the borders of Northern Ireland and Great Britain. Under this approach, Northern Ireland and Great Britain will become the only member of the G7 which imposes controls on moving goods within its own borders.

The very nature of the border between Northern Ireland and Republic of Ireland is such that it can be expected that it will be a gateway for goods to be smuggled into and from the EU. However, the approach suggested in the Withdrawal Agreement replaces the previously considered ‘backstop’ which would have created a hard border between Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland.

WHAT THE WITHDRAWAL AGREEMENT FAILS TO ADDRESS The Withdrawal Agreement provides that the UK can continue to be treated as an EU member state during the transition period in respect of international agreements made by the EU. The international agreements include trade agreements which the EU has made with about 70 countries

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implementing equivalence regimes for regulatory and supervisory bodies and regimes.

3. Customs: The Declaration states that the: “economic partnership should through a Free Trade Agreement, ensure no tariffs, fees, charges or quantitative restrictions across all sectors, with appropriate and modern accompanying rules of origin, and with ambitious customs arrangements that are in line with” the EU and UK’s objectives and principles.

4. Digital Commerce: Provision is made for both parties to ensure they facilitate and address any “unjustified barriers to trade” by electronic means in respect of both services and goods.

It is also the case that the Declaration indicates an intention to THE POLITICAL DECLARATION seek an “adequacy decision” from The Political Declaration is a nonthe European Commission during legally binding document which sets the transition period to address out some of the aspirations of the UK EU to UK data transfers from 1 and EU Member States in relation January 2021. There is, however, no to the future relationship between guarantee that the UK will obtain an the UK and the EU post- Brexit. The adequacy decision from the European Political Declaration was considered Commission in time, or at all. and agreed at the European Council If an adequacy decision has not on 17 October 2019. been made by the end of the transition Although the Political Declaration period, then organisations in the EEA provided a framework for a possible which are transferring personal data trade deal, negotiations for this postto the UK will need to ensure that transition deal could not begin until they have in place an “appropriate after 31 January 2020. As a result, the safeguard” for the data. In the majority content of the Political Declaration provided only a basic skeleton of what of cases, the most appropriate lawful mechanism for transfers will be for the any deal could possibly look like. parties to enter into the appropriate The Declaration contains plenty of aspirations involving shared interests, EU approved “standard contractual clauses” (“SCCs”). close partnerships and ambitious co-operation, but many of the details 5. Security: The Declaration contains statements on the intended levels required in any deal are still to come. of co-operation in respect of both Included in the Declaration is: internal police co-operation and on broader foreign policy and defence 1. Trade in goods: The Declaration matters. states that the UK and EU: “envisage 6. Disputes and courts: The having an ambitious trading Declaration envisages a dispute relationship on goods on the basis of resolution system with a joint a Free Trade Agreement, with a view committee and an arbitration panel. to facilitating the ease of legitimate However, final word on matters of EU trade”. law will rest with the European Court 2. Trade in services: The Declaration of Justice. provides that both the EU and UK 7. Financial Services: Each of the should respect each regime’s right EU and the UK has agreed to assess to regulate and start assessing and including Japan, South Africa and South Korea.

Although the EU is notifying these countries that the UK should be “treated as a member state” of the EU until 31 December 2020, there is uncertainty as to whether these countries will do so.

If they fail to do so, UK goods exported to these countries will not benefit from preferential and cheaper access to these markets.

As at 29 January 2020 the UK’s Department for International Trade was unable to confirm which overseas countries would continue to treat the UK as a member state of the EU for the purposes of such agreements.

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the other for “equivalence”. These assessments were due to start in February 2020, and the parties have agreed to “endeavour to conclude [them] before the end of June 2020”. The EU and UK will be exactly equivalent at the end of the transitional period. It should therefore be possible for each of the EU and UK to find the other “equivalent” when they carry out their 41 equivalence assessments.

However, the UK has made it clear that it wants to depart from the EU’s regulatory framework; and the UK financial services regulators are keen to use their new freedom in some areas. So, if the EU is willing to treat the UK as equivalent in all 41 areas (and that cannot be guaranteed), that equivalence might not last for long.

8. Freedom of movement: Whilst the Declaration notes that the principle of free movement of persons will end, other mobility arrangements should be made (with the idea of visa-free travel for short- term visits likely being what is envisaged). It is worth noting that this should be read in conjunction with the wider changes to the immigration system expected to be announced by the UK Government.

In particular, there is no guarantee as to the status of those arriving after the end of the transition period.

In fact, there is also no guarantee whether there will be exemptions of any nature from the new immigration system for EU/EEA nationals coming to the UK or British citizens going to EU/EEA post Brexit.

CONCLUSION Whilst the Withdrawal Agreement is intended to provide some degree of certainty and security to individuals and businesses in the UK, the full terms and arrangements of the ‘divorce’ with the EU are still yet to be negotiated.

However, there remains the possibility that come 31 December 2020 a deal may still not have been agreed resulting in great uncertainty.

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24 MARCH 2020

EXCEL LONDON

Photographed by Chris Dawes

S TA N D 3 0 3

Eeeeeek Not another Email Are you spending a huge amount of time answering emails as they arrive? You shouldn’t be, says techno expert Chris Partridge

E

mail is a blessing and a curse. It is instant, allowing correspondence that could take weeks to flow naturally, almost as a conversation, but often the tsunami of incoming messages can be overwhelming. Luckily there are many ways to tame the beast.

The number one insight is that nobody expects an instant answer to an email: if they want the matter

dealt with on the spot, they pick up the phone or send a text. Demanding an on-the-spot response is like bursting into your office wildly waving a piece of paper forcing you to drop everything for them.

Don’t put up with it! The best way to deal with email is to set aside regular slots of, say, half an hour at regular intervals, such as when you arrive at work, go to lunch and just before you leave in the afternoon and resolutely ignore your email at other times.

Switch off notifications so you don’t get distracted by endless pings.

Getting sorted The first step in every email session is to weed out the dross. You will probably be on a lot of lists that generate a lot of boring adverts: if they are not relevant, take a moment to unsubscribe from the list. They have to provide a button to do this by law, so do it now – you will save a lot of time in the long term.

The next step is to start every email session by categorising the messages to keep the urgent ones visible and also to assign every email to a particular project or client so you can keep everything organised. The way this is done varies according to the email system you use.

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In gmail, you can apply ‘labels’ from a list in th ‘manage labels’ part of the ‘Settings’ menu. You can create a label for each new client or project and the system will apply the label automatically to incoming emails relating to that project.

In Apple iOS, these are called flags, and in Microsoft Outlook they are categories. All the systems use colour to help distinguish emails in different categories easily.

If you apply the relevant label to emails you send, replies will also be correctly categorised on arrival.

In iOS you can set up a VIP account for individual senders who are particularly important, such as brides whose weddings are imminent.

To do this, go to the list of accounts and select VIP. Add the email address concerned, and choose which notifications will be triggered by an incoming email so you can respond immediately to that special person.

Get into action Many emails need action by someone else before you can respond, such as requests for approvals, and you can get these out of your inbox but not completely out of sight by creating a ‘pending action’ folder that you can consult occasionally to make sure things are progressing.

Your calendar can also be used to help control email. When an email specifies a deadline or sets a date for a follow-up action, it will often be highlighted so you can add it instantly to your calendar to remind you when the time comes.

Creating templates Dealing with emails can be dramatically speeded up with templates. You will undoubtedly find yourself sending more or less the same message many times in response to requests for catalogues, quotes, appointments and so on, and having a collection of stock replies can save enormous amounts of time.

There are many apps that help you create emails from templates, and usually supply lots of ready-made

spam, file emails and archive stuff that To add a sig, go to the settings you will want to refer to again. menu for each account you use.

Finally, a more general point about You can also eliminate the standard email that will save ‘Sent from my phone’ message, The best way to deal you a lot of time as well, is this: although it has to with email is to set aside when drafting your be said that letting response, be brief clients know you regular slots of, say, and to the point. have generated the email on your Signing out half an hour at regular Don’t waste your time in endless phone does garner Another handy feature of all email intervals. Resolutely asides or lengthy clients is the ability to add a ‘signature’ sympathy for any spelling or other automatically to the bottom of every ignore your email at statements of opinion. You will errors. message. The sig can contain all other times save time in the A lot of the your business details including the writing, and your tedious email website, social media feeds and so correspondent won’t have to waste donkey work can be done in odd on as well as the physical address of their time ploughing through your moments that you might otherwise your shop (or shops). You can even add logos and other branding material spend staring into space, such as the screed.

But don’t be so terse as to be queue at the coffee shop or waiting but don’t go overboard otherwise impolite. The occasional friendly aside your email will begin to look like an ad for a meeting to begin. Use that time to get on your smartphone and delete is always welcomed. campaign. templates for a professional polish, but the easy way is to create and store your own texts in your favourite notes app (such as Apple Notes, Google Keep or OneNote) and store them for easy access. Then you can copy and paste or just send the note according to what is appropriate.

SAVE TIME Get your email brain into gear and plan all the whens and hows

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F IND YOUR

DREAM DRESS

MOST VIEWED… BRIDAL DRESS STYLE 9706 BY ALLURE BRIDALS The new 2020 collections have really caught the eye of brides this month. Especially the signature Allure Bridals collection – start to finish stunning!

Most searched for...

WHAT YOU R BRI DES A R E SHOPPING FOR O N LI N E We look at what trends brides are searching for this month on findyourdreamdress.co.uk MOST READ… BLOG FEATURE SWEET ‘SOMETHING BLUE’ IDEAS Brides are going back to tradition searching for ‘something blue’ ideas to complete the old rhyme. Do you stock blue accessories in store?

A great way to get some add-on sales, from jewellery and hair accessories to garters and clutches.

WHAT IS FIND YOUR DREAM DRESS? Brides-to-be can use this super-helpful website that allows them to filter various categories in order to find their dream dress in among FYDD’s database. Then, the site tells the brides where the nearest boutique is that stocks the dress of their choice. If you’re a designer and you’d like to see your collection of gowns featured here, or if you’re a boutique owner who would love to have your business included in the search results, then visit findyourdreamdress.co.uk to discover more. Alternatively, drop Martha an email at martha@meanttobemedia.com.

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MOST SEARCHEDFOR… DESIGNER ENZOANI A label always on every bride’s lips, Enzoani has been repeatedly searched for on the FYDD site this month. Beautiful, Blue and the signature collection have each received a lot of traffic!

MOST SEARCHED-FOR… DRESS SHAPE FIT AND FLARE Still reigning supreme, the figure-hugging styles have been the most popular so far this year.

This stunning Keaton by Casablanca dress has certainly got some attention!

MOST VIEWED… PLUS-SIZE DRESS STYLE BB18702 BY SPECIAL DAY This pretty design complete with lace and tulle sleeves is top choice for curvier brides right now.

MOST VIEWED… BRIDESMAID DRESS FLORRIE BY ROMANTICA OF DEVON Brides and their best girls have been going crazy for this gorgeous dress. High necklines are always popular for bridesmaids, so we think this will be a bestseller in 2020.

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SAVE THE DATES ...Lots of them!

Here’s a month-by-month guide to the major bridal expos in 2020...

THE BRIDAL ROADSHOW 1-2 March Birmingham 8-9 March Harrogate Thebridalroadshow.co.uk

ROME BRIDAL WEEK 9-11 May Fiera di Roma Romebridalweek.com

LONDON BRIDAL FASHION WEEK 22-24 March ExCel, London londonbridalweek.com

BRIDAL EVENT AMSTERDAM 8-10 March Schiphol Novotel Amsterdam Amsterdam bridaleventamsterdam.com

NATiONAL BRIDAL MARKET 15-17 March 25-27 August The Mart Chicago nationalbridalmarket.com

ONE FINE DAY 22-24 March JJ Wimborne Studios London N1 6TA onefinedaybridalmarket.com

TEXTILE FORUM 11-12 March One Marylebone London W1 textileforum.org.uk

WHITE GALLERY LONDON 22-24 March ExCel, London londonbridalweek.com

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PARIS BRIDAL FAIR 29-30 March Porte de Versailles Pavilion 2.1 parisbridalfair.com

EUROPEAN BRIDAL WEEK 4-6 April Messe Essen europeanbridalweek.com SI SPOSA ITALIA 17-20 April Fiera Milano City sposaitaliacollezioni.fieramilano.it VALMONT BARCELONA BRIDAL WEEK 20-26 April 2020 Fira de Barcelona Barcelona, Spain Barcelonabridalweek.com

THE KNOT COUTURE SHOW 18-20 April 4-6 October Metropolitan Pavilion New York Knotcoutureshow.com INTERBRIDE 24-26 May Messe Dusseldorf Interbride.eu ROME FASHION WEEK 6-8 June Fiera di Roma Romefashionweek.it

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Finding the perfect TEAM players If someone gives you their CV or details when you are not looking to take on anyone else, it is important to keep their details on file, . says trainer Helena Cotter Defining the position on offer – Exactly what is the job required?

– What skills will be needed?

– Do you want someone with retail experience?

Detail, detail, detail. It’s all in the detail. Avoid the common error small business owners often make of wanting any new employee to do everything which isn’t currently being done. And, as we know in our industry, that can be absolutely anything!

Work smart. Keep a running list of jobs you feel you might need extra help with and use it as a foundation on which to write job descriptions once you are ready to take on extra staff.

Spreading the word Once you know what type of employee you would like to have on board, it’s time to do a shout out.

Historically, it may have been enough to simply put a sign in your shop window but in the era of online hiring, you may feel that a shop window sign isn’t going to get you the quality or quantity of applicant you need to make an active choice. That said,I wouldn’t rule out putting one in anyway; local people pass by your business every day. Eyes are always on’t ignore CVs that come drawn to a bridal window display, so it when you aren’t recruiting. pays to have a sign.

Be organised and store Make sure it is legible and printed them for when you are. on substantial paper or card. Put it They could prove to be an invaluable in a frame if possible to keep things resource; just think, you may discover Job descriptions professional. a potential bridal industry superstar Once you have used your running Here are some other ways to who would make a valuable addition duties list to create a definitive job advertise that you are hiring: to your business. description for any new position, make – Use social media accounts, which The mere fact someone has another list to highlight the must-have should include Facebook, Twitter taken the time to come in and drop elements that you are looking for and and Instagram (LinkedIn is brilliant, their details off at your boutique need to move your business forward. too). You may wish to post on your or showrooms shows a confident, These will be the criteria that business and personal accounts assertive and pro-active personality.

– Networking at business events A must in any retail environment. And you should include in any and all advertisements, newsletter etcand – Speaking to friends, acquaintances doubly so in bridal retail. will take the form of a definite retail and other local businesses Ask trusted friends or colleagues job title, and job description. Include – Talking to people a bridal fairs/ to help you go through CVs. Be industry events strong and be guided, but not wholly details such as: – Daily duties, responsibilities and influenced by, your gut feeling. rotas Small and perfectly formed Any CV that doesn’t match with – Any individual personality strengths One of the advantages of running a the criteria on any list you create small business is that you can offer should be set to one side. That person required – Stamina levels! flexibility and your own terms of may still show promise for future – Relevant qualifications/experience employment. For instance, you may employment.

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AN INTERESTING CANDIDATE She may not be right for the job now but she could be in the future

be able to offer perks by promoting the specialness of working in a small, independent business environment.

Are you able to offer flexible working hours? Can you offer extra money? If you want to attract the best, you may need to pay a little more than other retailers. It costs too much to lose good staff!

Independent bridal retailers like you are unique in that you can offer a small business experience, part of which involves being completely hands-on at work in a varied, fun and challenging job, unlike large companies which can be immersed in corporate paperwork, procedures and politics.

Keeping things in perspective How many times have you met people (brides and guests) who say to you, “You are so lucky, I’d love to work here.” That is a lovely thing to hear, but the reality is that this job is very hard work, both emotionally and physically.

The customers only see the gloss, fairy tales and glamour, and so they should. Behind the scenes though, is another story, isn’t it!

Small business owners can often make the mistake that because they love their companies, they want everyone else to love them too.

If you want employee longevity, resist the urge to make the position sound like more than it is. Be upfront, honest and genuine. Tell them exactly

what the job is about, and what to expect. Whilst you don’t want to put off potential new employees, you need to be realistic in your delivery.

like you do. So, sell it to them.

Demonstrate why it’s a place they would love to work at – if you feel you wish to pursue their application.

Interviewing Be crystal clear about your company’s ethos, brand and identity to allow you to see how right their fit might be with your company’s values, vision and environment.

Ask behavioural interview style questions alongside regular questions.

Avoid “What is your favourite biscuit”, or “What animal are you” style questions to catch people out, or psychoanalyse them.

When it comes to interviewing new staff applicants, you can use your experience because you’re well versed in the job for which you’re hiring. Use that experience when you interview. Ask questions such as “What would you do if...” to determine how they may cope with/work through any particular scenario. There are plenty of examples to choose from in bridal retail, aren’t there!

You’ll be able to work out what they really are thinking and their reaction to an untypical interview question.

I loved to ask about what they think a typical day in a bridal boutique might involve, and what they know about your business. What was it that made them apply for this position?

No-one knows your business

Making it personal In a small business, an employee can make up a large percentage of the staff. It is therefore of the highest importance for a smallbusiness owner to find someone who compliments and enhances your business. Allow them to demonstrate their skills and experience, and probe further by questioning if necessary to determine their suitability.

Slowly does it Skills may be taught, but attitude is all. The dynamic shifts when taking on new staff. Someone who doesn’t fit can really throw a spanner in the works. So, take your time.

Wise words When staff are invested in, training is focused and ongoing, individuality is nurtured, personalities are respected, and the healthiest working environment is encouraged, great employees are born – and they tend to stay.

Helena Cotter E: info@helenacotter.co.uk Instagram: hccoaching Twitter: @HCSalesTraining LinkedIn: Helena Cotter

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Money Talks

any time whereas money held within a pension is likely to be inaccessible until you reach at least 55 years of age. w ISAs are included in your Estate for Inheritance Tax purposes whereas pensions are usually excluded.

As an illustration of the tax relief on payment contributions, if an individual was to pay £80 in to their pension, their pension pot would increase by £100 (£80 + £20 tax relief). Therefore if you have £300 to pay in, this would mean that your pension would grow by £375 after the tax relief is added..

If you are a higher rate tax payer you are able to claim higher rate tax relief either through your self assessment tax return or with HMRC through your PAYE code, depending on whether you complete a self assessment tax return.

If you need a personalised recommendation based on your personal circumstances, you should seek advice from an Independent Financial Adviser.

GOING LEGAL

This time round, our accountancy expert Michael Cahill of Albert Goodman answers your questions about personal investments, cash flow projections the will impress the bank, and the value of giving your staff incentives What am I better off doing, putting money into a pension scheme of some sort or buying an ISA (don’t honestly understand those). I think I can save around £300 a month ongoing.

An ISA, or Individual Savings Account, is effectively a tax free savings account and there are four types of ISA: w Cash ISA w Stocks and shares ISA w Innovative ISA w Lifetime ISA In the tax year ending 5 April 2020 you can save a maximum of £20,000 into ISAs and you can only put money into one kind of ISA during a tax year.

You can invest in a cash ISA from the age of 16, stocks and shares ISA or Innovative ISA from the age of 18 and you can open a lifetime ISA if you are between 18 and 40 years of age. Once opened, you can continue paying into a lifetime ISA until you are 50. Lifetime ISAs can be used to buy your first home or save for later life.

Any income or gains earnt on funds held within an ISA or pension whilst they are in those wrappers are tax free.

However, some of the key differences between pensions and ISAs are: w No tax relief is given on payments into an ISA while tax relief is given on payments into a pension; w Funds can be extracted from an ISA tax free but usually where funds are extracted from a pension only 25% can be taken tax free but the remainder is taxable. w ISAs are more flexible in that funds can be accessed at 104 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 0

I am new to business and need to ask a very basic question so I can put a formal plan together. How do I set up cash flow projections and what do I need to show the bank that I know what I am doing?

Cash-flow projections are hugely important whether you are just starting out in business, or at a more mature stage as, if a business is unable to meet its liabilities as they fall due for payment, it will fail.

I would recommend that you prepare a monthly profit and loss balance sheet and cash flow forecast which all support one another for at least the first two years of the business to give the bank a clear indication of your expectations.

I would also suggest you prepare a more detailed cash flow forecast, showing cash inflows and outflows on a weekly basis to be used for operational purposes. This should be for a minimum of 13 weeks and you should roll it forward weekly so that you always have three months visibility of expected high and low bank balances. This will give you time to make plans and take corrective action if the low points mean that you would be operating outside of your agreed finance facilities.

Your accountant can help with the preparation or review of the forecasts, and should discuss the data with you to ensure it is complete, accurate and based on reasonable assumptions before it is shared with key third parties such as the bank.

There are lots of cash flow forecast software solutions available, including some that will integrate with accounting software and these may well be worth considering.

My strongest bit of advice would be not to prepare an initial forecast, stick it in a drawer, and never look at it again! Used properly, it will help you make more informed decisions and ultimately improve the performance of your business.

One of the strengths of small businesses is that they can be dynamic, and if you have a strong cash position, its possible that you can use this to accelerate your growth by taking advantage of future opportunities which present themselves at short notice.

Get connected with the UK’s most exciting, passionate, new wedding industry magazine

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ISSUE 18 • NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019

New York greats

PROUDL Y SUPPOR TING BRITISH BRIDALW RETAILE EAR RS COMING UP ROSES...

PINK IS THE PRETTIEST CHOICE

THE BEST BITS OF HARROGATE...

RETAILERS LIST THEIR FAB FIVE

Email your business finance questions to susi@rogol-goodkind. com for inclusion in the first available issue of Wedding Trader.

If you’d like to consult directly with Michael Cahill for professional advice, email michael.cahill@ albertgoodman.co.uk

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE 17 • SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER ’19

It’s show time...

Y PROUDL TING SUPPORISH BRIT EAR BRIDALW RS RETAILE

HARROGATE GETS READY FOR A BRIDAL BONANZA

THE WINNERS ON STAGE TO GET THEIR TROPHIES

Apple facts and all the fiction

Y PROUDL TING SUPPORISH BRIT EAR BRIDALW RS RETAILE

What you think...

THE BRICKBATS AND BOUQUETS OF BRIDAL TODAY

ELLIE SANDERSON AND OTHERS SPEAK FROM THE HEART OF BRIDAL

TRANSPARENCY THE FROCKS THAT PUT BODIES (AND KNICKERS) ON DISPLAY

ISSUE 15 • MAY/JUNE ’19

IAN STUART TAKES TO THE ROAD AND COMES BACK WITH A SMILE

Chat and snap THE NEW BREED OF PHONES THAT TAKE THE BEST PICTURES

STATEMENT-MAKERS FOR THE MEN IN THE BRIDAL PARTY

A RETAILER’S GUIDE TO SETTING UP YOUR VERY OWN PHOTO SHOOT

FREDA BENNET PROMISES TO BE EVERYONE’S FAVOURITE

Closing the doors

The talk of the shows

THE TRENDS SET IN THE SEASON’S TOP EVENTS

WHAT THE WELLDRESSED WOMAN WILL BE WEARING

HOW US TARIFFS MIGHT AFFECT THE UK MARKET

TALKING SHOP: WE GET RETAILERS TOGETHER

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Mum’s the word

WHY THE SHOW WITH A PROUD HISTORY REMAINS FIRST CHOICE

ARE THEY WHAT TOMORROW WILL BRING?

NEW SHOP FIT? WATCH WHAT YOU SPEND

WEDDING

ISSUE 16 • JULY/AUGUST ’19

Getting ready for Harrogate

ELEGANT BRIDAL SUPERSTORES

DIARIES AT THE READY SAVE ALL THE DATES FOR THE 2020 SHOWS

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

CAPES... SOMETHING YOU SIMPLY HAVE TO HAVE IN 2020

LADYBIRD FLIES INTO A WHOLE NEW CHAPTER AS PART OF PRONOVIAS

Reactions

ONE RETAILER ON WHAT MADE HER CHANGE DIRECTION

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05/11/2019 12:18

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Assessment

IS IT TIME TO RETHINK YOUR BUSINESS STRATEGY?

DOING IT ABROAD THE DESTNATIONS THAT ARE IN DEMAND

Is there a sensible approach to incentives, like when a bride says yes to the dress, giving her a voucher for a meal at a local restaurant to celebrate?

Incentive schemes can be useful but care must be taken to ensure that they are appropriate to the circumstances. Using your example, giving a bride a meal at a local restaurant to celebrate is a nice thank you but (assuming you don’t own the restaurant as well!) will this add to your business? But would you benefit more by offering additional products or services at a discount? Or introducing a scheme to reward introductions and referrals? Take time to decide what it is you are trying to achieve, whether incentives are necessary to achieve it,.

WEDDING

WEDDING

WEDDING

More winners

BEST SELLERS CHOSEN BY THE BEST

HAT TRICKS OUR PICK OF CROWNING GLORIES

ISSUE THIRTEEN • FEBRUARY ’19

VALENTINE’S DAY WILL IT DELIVER A WAVE OF NEW BRIDES?

Show business GET READY TO BUY THE BEST – WE TELL YOU WHERE AND WHEN

PROUDL SUPPOR Y TING BRITISH BRIDALW RETAILE EAR RS

BLOG IT LEARN FROM THE ABSOLUTE BEST

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WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

13/08/2019 13:08

ISSUE 14 • MARCH/APRIL ’19

Showtime

WHAT THE TRADE ASSOCIATIONS CAN DO FOR THEIR MEMBERS

EMERGING TALENTS NAMES TO KNOW FROM ACROSS THE POND

GO AWAY...

HEAD FOR THE BEACH

OUTSPOKEN OPINIONS BIG NAMES – POWERFUL VIEWS

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Justin & Savannah INTRODUCING THE PERFECT COUPLE

GROOM SERVICE ENTER THE NEW-AGE BOYS’ ZONE

07/05/2019 12:21

ISSUE TEN • NOVEMBER ’18

Changing the game plan

ADDING EXTRAS TO YOUR OFFERING THAT WILL PULL IN NEW BUSINESS

PROUDL SUPPOR Y TING BRITISH BRIDALW RETAILE EAR RS

Get togethers WORKING WITH OTHER SERVICE SUPPLIERS

OH KNICKERS! WHAT GOES UNDER THAT BEAUTIFUL DRESS

HOW THE BIG NAMES HELP THEIR STOCKISTS

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WEDDING

WINNERS! WHAT IT FELT LIKE ON THE BIG NIGHT

Designer-owned bridal stores

05/03/2019 15:51

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DESTINATION DRESSING – OUR GUIDE TO THE VERY BEST

WHO IS IN THE RUNNING FOR A COVETED TROPHY?

BREXIT THE POSSIBLE POSITIVES FOR BRIDAL

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ISSUE SEVEN • AUGUST ’18

The Awards

David’s Bridal WILL ITS REPRIEVE HURT THE INDUSTRY?

AND WORKING WITH DESSY

07/01/2019 21:39

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

01/07/2019 16:57

ON CHANNEL 4’S MOST-WATCHED LIST

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WEDDING

Ian Stuart

BIG AND BOLD OR EXCLUSIVE AND INTIMATE... WHICH SHOW IS FOR YOU?

DESIGNER SPEAK THE BRITPACK TALK ABOUT FORTHCOMING TRENDS

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03/07/2018 18:09

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09/10/2018 13:40

TO WORK W ITH US, CO NTACT: Sales Executive Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07877 449122

Editor Susi Rogol susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Finally, it feels that the gap has been bridged and suppliers and retailers are all on the same page, working and talking together. Susi and the fabulous team have recognised this in abundance and created a monthly handbag explosion of fascinating insight, constructive opinions, hints, tips and captivating reads. Truly inspirational!

Jeanette Stevens, Managing Director, Enzoani Europe

WE DD I N GT RA D E R M AG .CO M M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 105

“Now that Brexit has happened and what will be will be, so to speak, I find I can focus a bit more on business growth without the Boris et al daily commentaries. I know there is a lot ahead on that score before we have a clear picture but now I just want to get on with things. I have spoken to a number of my suppliers and they are really positive about their new collections (well they would say that, wouldn’t they) so now is the time that we move forward together.”

“Views on a once-a-year show? I am set in my

“I want some advice on social media.

Some people are saying Facebook is so yesterday and only a sensible choice for staying in touch with family and friends, and that Instagram is great but needs to have several posts a day. What have others found? What works best? And anyway, what do all those likes really mean – it seems to me that everyone just clicks on everything regardless of the value to their business.

And if that’s the case, what’s the real value. Do you find Twitter works for you? I am so confused.”

ways and want to be able to buy and then top up properly and that aside, MGNY

the opportunity to get together as a group has its advantages. More than that, I want to be able to spread my spend, and spend according to how business is faring. And one more thing, brides who come back over and over again and can’t make their minds up are more likely to do so if they see new dresses when they arrive at their next appointment.”

“Bugger! Mother’s Day is 22 March and I will be at ExCel for London Bridal Fashion Week. This will cost me a fortune – again – in flowers and chocolates!

...and finally What’s the word on the street? We’ve rounded up who’s been saying what, whether it’s about Wedding Trader or the industry in general

“Shoes? This is what I do. I have a row of simple styles and different heels heights lined up for my brides to pop on when they try a dress on – it makes a huge difference to their self-perception and the way they hold themselves. Then, if they are interested in buying shoes, I get on to the various manufacturers and call some styles in.

This works well for me and I don’t have the probem of finding display space.”

“I’m really enjoy reading other retailers’ views in your mag and feel I too would like to be heard. But with the best intentions in the world I somehow just don’t get round to it. But I am going to. I’ll give up Netflix and get to work on my ipad. Tomorrow that is. Watch out for a bit of controversy and what I think are some really good ideas. After the shows that is!!!!”

106 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 0

F IND YOUR

DREAM DRESS Use our handy tool to search through 1000’s of dresses online for all the bridal party, then click to find your nearest stockist!

www.findyourdreamdress.co.uk

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