Wedding Trader - issue 21

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Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

OPINIONS

RETAILERS’ SHARED FEELINGS, FEARS AND FORWARD THINKING

Well trained

GETTING READY FOR OPEN DOORS

Looking ahead

WHAT THE TOP WEDDING PLANNERS ARE EXPECTING

ISSUE 21 • MAY/JUNE ’20

Coming together NOW WE ARE WORKING AS ONE

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THE NEW ‘NORM’ WHAT LIES IN STORE?


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contents

PALOMA BLANCA

WHAT ’ S WHE RE

13 UPDATE Who is helping to support NHS workers

50

J U ST IN T IM E Reaching brides to reach our retailers

74

18 PL A NNING AH EAD Wedding planners on what lies ahead

52 ADV IC E FR O M EN ZOA N I And it makes real sense

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22 L ET TE R FR OM AMER ICA Getting ready to open up

54

SAS S I SAYS ... See what’s on the drawing boards for 2021

78

26 EL L IE’S P LACE Clear lines, crisp thinking

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M AKE M INE A M O R I LE E Discover what they are doing for YOU

80

28 MY LE ARNING CURV E Abi Neill on what she’s learned

58

TO O T R U E Bridesmaids for when the time is right

82

32 ON TH E D OT Dotty Bridal at the ready

60

BEST SELLERS Top picks from Suzanne Neville

84

36 T HE CH ANGE WE N E E D? Helen Lord thinks it could well be

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A DES IGNE R D OZE N Ladybird’s growing portfolio

86

38 L AURA Looking at the bright side of life

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GE T GO R GEO U S Direction from Romantica

88

40 F EELING BE TTE R Sue Lovell thinks it through

66

FR E DA ST Y L E What Chris and Jane are working on

90

42 B RID ESTALK Moving forward, have plans changed?

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S ILV E R S C R E E N ST Y LE Eliza Jane Howell... who else?

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44 T I ME TO GE T SAVVY Maria Musgrove does not waste words

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DR E AM DR ES SES Anna Georgina has the perfect recipe

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48 A N AGE NT’S TH OU GHT S Michelle Blackburn from her point of view

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100 R E T RA I N I N G

A C E NT U RY O F ST Y LE What makes Wilvorst a leader?

TA LK TO E N ZOA N I Answers to stockists’ FAQs CA N A DA’ S C R E A M Paloma and Mikaella in style U T T E R LY D ES I RA B LE You guessed – Alan Hannah of course S O M E T H I N G S P EC I A L Check out Special Day’s portfolio D I F F E R E N T WAYS Brian Chen offers the options DA N D O M AG I C Body-sculpting sheer glamour LO O K I N G G R E AT What makes Elbeth Gillis so special? F E AT U R ES F I R ST Casablanca Bridal adds detail to detail T H E W H O LE P I CT U R E Ivory & Co – need we say more? M A K I N G YO U R M A R C Meet menswear’s Marc Wallace B E A V LO G G E R Making videos that sell your shop Lots of forward planning needed MAY/JUNE 2020 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 7


ENZOANI.COM


CO NTACT US

Ed’s Letter

Editor Susi Rogol

We thought long and hard about the direction we wanted to take for this issue. With a halt in trading, no clear picture of when the new ‘normal’ would emerge and be operative – or the form it would take, we felt a change in content was vital. So, we approached retailers – some direct, some through social media channels – and asked them to talk about their feelings, their thoughts, their concerns. What has fascinated me is that a number, having been hesitant initially, reported feeling the exercise was cathartic and served to clarify their own thought processes; they came out of the experience feeling more positive than they had been at the start. That so many have focused on their brides – present and future – and spent time and energy staying in contact with them, advising and supporting them is what makes our industry so strong. We asked suppliers for advice, too, and for the messages they wanted to get over to their stockists. And we asked them about their new collections – the ones that were months in the making in readiness for the key buying events of 2020... that never happened. The vast majority were fast to act to produce virtual showrooms, online appointments, one-to-one presentations, ensuring that retailers were kept in the loop and aware of what would be available and ready to deliver when the time is right. And there will be a right time. It will introduce a different way of doing business, yes, but it will be the way all of us will be working and that makes change far easier to deal with. In the meanwhile, we all seem to have been occupied long hours, mapping out our need-to-do’s, and renewing old friendships. I think it is the shared conversations that have helped so many of us. The exchanges by email and phone, the ideas for moving forward, the WhatsApp swops of quirky videos, the fun poked WEDDING at officialdom, updates on who is doing what and helping fundraising. We need to grab those smiles from Coming OPINIONS RETAILERS’ SHARED FEELINGS, FEARS AND wherever and be together FORWARD THINKING NOW WE ARE thankful for our WORKING AS ONE circle of like-minded Well trained PRO EDITOR SUPPOUDLY GETTING RT people. READY FOR BRITISHING BRIDAL SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND OPEN DOORS RETA WEAR

Trader WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Andy Allen Art Director “As a bit of a techie myself, I was fascinated to learn about the newest gadgetry to produce professional videos.” (p96) Martha Cooke Head of Advertising “Reading views from so many top retailers on how they are planning ahead says so much for unified thinking.” Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding “I was bowled over to read about what the industry has been doing to support the NHS. Applause is called for.” (p13)

Looking ahead

WHAT THE TOP WEDDING PLANNERS ARE EXPECTING

WT21_Cover 1aa 1sr JP.indd 1

Menswear Editor Dominic Bliss dominic.bliss@btopenworld.com

Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com

Head of Advertising Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07877 449122 @WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader

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ISSUE 21 • MAY/JUNE ’20

ILERS

TEAM TALK

susi@meanttobemedia.com

THE NEW ‘NORM’ WHAT LIES IN STORE?

Trader WEDDING

Wedding Trader magazine is distributed to hundreds of the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is a new trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

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Cover image: Venice, from the 2021 Dando London Collection

Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 7 Derbyshire Road, Manchester M40 1QN. Tel: 0161 681 1771 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish: F IND YOUR

LOV E OUR

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MAY/JUNE 2020 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 9





Who’s Been Doing What... Despite the huge anxiety created, as much as anything else by the lack of information and confirmed go-ahead dates, our industry has pulled together to get in there and help by raising funds, giving discounts to NHS staff and making scrubs for frontline workers. We talked to just a few of those brilliant people who are doing whatever they can...

WENDY YOUNG OF LACY DAYS OF RAMSBOTTOM had left nursing to open her bridal boutique 18 months ago. Wanting to help the NHS, she has returned to nursing on a part-time temporary contract whilst having some time to keep an eye on her business.

MICHAEL HUNT, husband of the lovely Peta, has been making scrubs, scrub bags, masks and gowns for the NHS. “It has helped to keep me sane and have a purpose,” he says. The scrubs are all cut from poly cotton fabric, which is quite scarce now but can be found. Masks and bags are being made from unwanted bedlinens. “People have been so generous,” reports Michael. I am regarded as the professional of the group and help with queries and technical problems. I am part of the lovely Scrubs Forest Gate subgroup team – there are people cutting garments, sourcing fabric, collecting and delivering, sewing and packing. I have made some nice new friends. Today, for example, I have cut out 50 masks and 50 scrub bags and written instructions on how to construct and make the masks.

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FREYA ROSE is giving a free pair of freshwater pearl earrings to anyone engaged in the NHS and a 30% discount to all NHS staff via their blue card. WILVORST the German mens’ formalwear brand, has been producing much needed protective face masks – more than 50,000 pieces a week and will, if necessary, step up the numbers. Their masks are washable and reusable, and intended for private use rather than intensive care.

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SABINA MOTESEM has been busy. ”I am leading the Islington and North Hackney Scrub Hub to use our special skills and on course to make almost 1,000 scrubs through my network of talented professional machinists. I’m helping to connect the NHS with factories who are willing and able to reopen to help make scrubs and PPE medical gowns in bulk, and get them to the doctors and nurses who need them. I’ve joined forces with a small group of couture designers and costume makers to help the government with a small supply of medical PPE as well.” You can donate to the fundraiser at gofundme. com/f/9e8bs-making-scrubsfor-the-nhs


BECKY LAVELLE OF LAVELLE BRIDAL COUTURE in Warwick, has been posting the work of her seamstress Lou, on social media. Lou has been producing face shields and scrub bags for local NHS hospitals. As a result of the posts, requests have come in, and more bags are now in the workings. IAN ELLISON OF CREATION WEDDINGS AND PROM FROCKS in Wigan believes that the Wigan Scrub Hub team, with fabric donated, or bought from money raised through their Gofundme page, has produced close to 2,000 sets of scrubs with Creations cutting a quarter of that amount and working with a small team of seamstresses, plus Lesley from Wigan college and her team of seamstresses. WINNIE COUTURE in California has unveiled its Haute Mask collection of protective wedding wear for engaged couples. 100% of all proceeds of which will be donated to Direct Relief, a nonprofit organisation that is currently working to provide personal protective equipment and essential medical items to US and international health workers. There are four styles in the collection, glamorously designed and handcrafted with couture fabrics and embellished with glittering crystals and plumes of lace. Each mask is made with detailed precision, lined with 100% organic cotton, an adjustable nose bridge, elastic ear loops, and a filter pocket for safe and breathable wear.

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GYUNEL OF GYUNEL COUTURE says this: “I believe compassion is key to overcoming this historic moment and hope that NHS staff can feel truly appreciated for all their hard work. In turning our hand to the production of much-needed scrubs, we hope to do our bit in expressing gratitude.” ALISON HOLLIS OF FAIRYTALE BRIDE in Coggeshall has launched a giveaway programme directed solely at NHS staff planning to marry 2021/2022. One bride-to-be will win a dream dress to the value of £2,000 and five runner-ups will get money-off vouchers worth £200 applied against a wedding dress purchase. Entry is via the shop’s Facebook or Instagram pages.

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RICHARD LILL started making masks from Ladybird dress bags for key workers, friends and neighbours. Then he moved on to making scrubs wash bags for NHS Nightingale Hospital in the Harrogate Conference Centre and to producing masks for a local care home. “Every little helps,” he says.


ronaldjoyce.com


W E DDIN G PLANNING 2 020 ST Y L E Calm thinking and a positive attitude have enabled the top wedding planners to assess the best ways to deal with their clients’ needs right now, while there is still uncertainty about what lies ahead. Jill Eckersley talked to Sarah Hayward and Mark Niemierko

T

he wedding industry has always been forwardthinking. Weddings don’t just happen, and planning a wedding at any time takes months, even years of careful preparation. According to US website poptheknot.

Mark Niemierko

com it can be anything from 13 to 18 months and in February 2019 the Independent newspaper reported that couples were spending 11 months in planning mode. And then came coronavirus. High-end London-based wedding

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TOM GRIFFITHS

Sarah Hayward

planners like Mark Niemierko and Sarah Haywood began to get anxious phone calls and emails in late February and early March from concerned clients wondering whether their dream weddings were going to have to be cancelled… or possibly postponed until the lockdown was lifted, whenever that might be… “I began to hear that corporate events were being cancelled in February, although I don’t do corporate events myself,” says Mark. “Questions about weddings came later – just before the actual lockdown. It was in mid-March when Boris Johnson made his remark about the public having to face losing some of their loved ones to the virus.


That was when more people began to take the situation seriously and we, as wedding planners, began to be affected. “The Church of England announced that only five people could be present at a wedding – the vicar, the bride and groom and two witnesses. My immediate reaction was to offer free advice via social media to people who had already booked their wedding –whether or not they were working with a wedding planner – and to encourage them to postpone the wedding, rather than cancel everything and risk losing their deposit.” Setting new dates Sarah Haywood adds that thinking ahead was vital to keep her company afloat. “The moment Italy went into lockdown. we started checking available dates for 2021,” she says. “Many of our clients are inter= national and we know that people are not going to be keen to travel because the virus will still be around, even when lockdown is over. On the

positive side, we believe that 2021 will be really busy. People will still continue to get married, and we expect to be working with those of our clients who postponed from 2020, plus new clients as well. We know the venues and suppliers we need to work with and we are now finding out whether they are going to be available in 2021. If we had waited until late April to plan, we would be in trouble!” Mark Niemierko says that not just brides and grooms, but everyone in the trade, need to realise that the current situation will have an impact on weddings for some time to come, but that that fact need not mean total disaster. “My main advice to everyone involved is to talk to each other. Communicate. Come up with fresh ideas,” he says. “This is an unprecedented situation but wedding

planners learnt from the aftermath of the 2008 financial crisis, when there were lots of new opportunities and start-ups by wedding planners. “I was working with one couple whose wedding was arranged for the end of July and of course we couldn’t see it happening. Even if the Government and the medical experts were to say that restrictions could be relaxed by then, there are sure to be some guests who wouldn’t feel able to come – they might be in the ‘vulnerable’ category themselves, or feel that they risked passing the virus on to the other guests. “So we, as planners, need to prepare for smaller weddings in the near future. I can’t see the industry returning to normal before Spring 2021 at the earliest. I don’t know any more about the medical issues than anyone

Weddings don’t just

happen; planning takes months, even years, of careful preparation

GREG FINCK FOR SARAH HAYWOOD WEDDINGS & CELEBRATIONS

PERFECT CO-ORDINATION Everything has to work in harmony to create the right picture and atmosphere

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CLIVEDEN

THE GRAND SCHEME Supreme elegance and English-style formality have been a key feature in the past

else but I know ‘tests’ for the virus can A different scale “I can’t see large weddings happening take time to develop, and that’s not going to happen in weeks. We have to this year. ‘Social distancing’ just isn’t possible when a father wants to walk remember that if our businesses can survive this year there will be a ‘boom’ his daughter down the aisle. Plus there’s so much emotion involved in in weddings next year. a wedding, thinking of all the hugs “I spoke last week to a bride who and kisses and handshakes. But it was in tears at having to rearrange won’t affect the things after wedding trade planning her A wedding is a major permanently, special day for everyone will two years. life event after all, which want to get “She and her groom had is why they are somewhat back out there, just as they did then decided after the 2008 to have a small recession-proof crisis. civil wedding so “A wedding they were legally married, and save the big celebrations is a major life event after all, which is why they are somewhat recessionfor next year. Those of us in the proof. All those extended families and wedding trade need to bear that in groups of friends will want to make a mind and think creatively during this big effort, and hopefully there will be ‘down time’. Maybe come up with new ways of selling our products and even bigger celebrations of joy and love next year when the crisis is over.” services such as at-home try-ons for Sarah Haywood says that none of dresses?

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her staff have been furloughed. She employs five people in her events team plus three support staff and says that they are all busy dealing with clients who need to postpone their weddings. “We have had no actual cancellations,” she says. “I gave everyone really good options for what postponing would mean. We are in touch with venues, hotels, caterers, florists and photographers to find out what dates they have available for next year and whether all the consumables can be accessed and delivered to a different timescale. Everyone in the supply chain is affected so we have flowcharts in the office so that we know what can be done. If we don’t, we tell the clients that we will find out! “Couples employ wedding planners to take the stress out of the operation, so juggling the various aspects of the day is down to us. The logo of my company is a swan and like


a swan I seem serene on the surface but am paddling like hell underneath! Of course I have an amazing team working with me. “What I would say is, if you are a wedding planner wondering how to survive this, take the opportunity to put your business in order. I don’t have a crystal ball but I expect to be here next year and ready to give clients what they want. “This is an opportunity. I am not looking at growth for the business, just trying to ensure that I keep the clients I have and help them to postpone, and then pick up new ones next year as well. “There’s a lot of tittle-tattle, especially online, about how terrible everything is for businesses, and that doesn’t help confidence. The big lesson I took from the 2008 crash was to make sure I had good reserves. I have invested heavily in my team and I wouldn’t want to lose them. It’s a rainy day right now, in fact it’s pouring, but I’m looking ahead!”

Both Mark and Sarah feel that destination weddings will inevitably take a hit – partly because of guests’ unwillingness to fly, and partly because the pandemic has been handled so differently by countries in different parts of the world. “Each country seems to have different rules and people will remember that,” says Mark. “The World Health Organisation and the G20 countries don’t seem to have co-ordinated their responses well. For instance, I heard that Hong Kong has allowed restaurants to open but not serve any alcohol – so would that mean no Champagne at a Hong Kong wedding? UK couples may feel that it would be easier to move their wedding to a home venue as travelling would be simpler and less expensive for their guests. “It might take until 2022 or 2023 for destination weddings to become popular once more.” “It’s difficult to predict exactly what will happen,” agrees Sarah,

“but the cost of travel will go up without a doubt and that will have an impact. There could be a positive side, though. Until now the wedding industry has not been especially well up on environmental issues but less travelling could mean that that will change. We are learning that our treatment of the planet and its resources really matters to young people. “An increase in local weddings could mean that suppliers will be more likely to support local growers and food producers. More awareness could mean less waste of resources and new ways of design. We are all having to think more carefully because we don’t know exactly what will be available, or what might become prohibitively expensive. “Weddings are wonderful occasions that everyone loves and that will not change. The business of love is alive and well and ceremonies will become even more meaningful after what has happened this year.”

© SARAH HAYWOOD WEDDINGS & CELEBRATIONS

EXOTIC LOCATIONS When it is 100% safe to travel, destination weddings will come into their own again

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Letter from America There are brighter days ahead… Peter Grimes of Vows magazine has been in constant conversation with retailers in the US who have suffered the same uncertainties as we have, brought about by lockdown

T

hough we may certainly lose a number of retailers and manufacturers on both sides of the Atlantic and throughout North America before we fully emerge from this darkness, history has shown that there is opportunity for those who aggressively adapt and promote during and after economic downturns and natural disasters…. this is especially true for bridal, as adapting to change is built into our DNA. This pandemic and the protections that are slowly being relaxed have obviously and fundamentally

changed the ways in which businesses serve their clients; in all industries, every link in the chain has been impacted, from transportation, to sources of supply, to factories, to designers, to manufacturers to retailers through to the now more anxious and fearful consumer. A ‘new normal’? Many businesses are being advised to pivot in this ‘new normal’ in ways already familiar to bridal, such as a focus on understanding consumer wants and desires… and on executing personalised brand-building

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experiences both online and in-store. McKinsey & Company, in its recent report Reimagining Stores for Retail’s Next Normal, advises that retail operations need to redefine the role of the store. They say: “More than ever, stores need to offer unique customer experiences instead of simply serving as transactional venues. To better cater to changing customer preferences in the next normal, stores should seek to deliver a superior product-discovery experience and provide access to exclusive merchandise (for example, through ‘in store only’ and ‘in store first’ product launches).” Essentially, this new normal is not so new for us, but a very dramatic confirmation of our strategies that monitor and adapt to the continual changes in the bride’s buying behavior. If anything, contact-free transactions and environments, limits on the number and participants attending in-store appointments,


and emphasis on health and safety actually increases the importance of what you do best. If you have been in this industry for a length of time, you’ve successfully overcome other disruptions to your business and market… the growth of the national chain, the highlyvisible Alfred Angelo bankruptcy, the development and gains of e-commerce, direct-to-consumer online bridal companies, and the gyrations of the bridesmaids category to name a few. How you did so then is at the root of how you’ll do so now… by creating an authentic connection of trust, hope and joy with the bride, wrapped in a personalised experience that reaffirms the value and importance of romance and weddings, and by doing so, becoming a blessing to the entire community. This moment is no different, regardless of the limitation on the size and extravagance of a bride’s ceremony and reception, or of economic uncertainty. She still wants her Instagram moment. How she looks in her gown and accessories standing next to her groom becomes that much more important. Ronnie Rothstein, Kleinfeld Bridal owner, once described the bridal gown as a “souvenir” of the wedding. This is even more true in today’s circumstance.

instructionals and advice from media, brands, bridal consultants, and associations. w Virtual showrooms and lookbooks of designers’ collections presented by Markets and individual brands. w Manufacturers and brands providing live streaming of collections, sponsored educational webinars, and programmes to ease the financial burden of store shutdown. And for some of you, the forced shelter at home, social distancing and store closure mandates have actually worked as a benefit. They invigorated you, pushed you to be a bit more creative in your social-media posts and campaigns, to freshen up your store, inspired you to be a better leader for staff and family, reminded you to revisit and review sales training materials, and provided encouragement to experiment with video messaging, virtual chat, conferencing and consultations.

What to expect These brighter days will not come easily as there are a number of factors that could derail a rebound, including: w The near-immediate effect of possibly high numbers of store and manufacturer closures. w A lengthy rebound period stretching months that further stresses the shortterm financial capability of surviving manufacturers and retailers. w When fabric mills and factories return to full production. w Status of orders and goods How we’ve reacted As a whole, the industry has scheduled for delivery in May and June. supported one another and w What ill-advised steps cash-starved our communities with virtual retailers and manufacturers may take consultations; heartfelt social-media to generate short term revenue. messages; creative and touching w Deep prom store inventories, the window displays; fundraising efforts to possible total loss of prom 2020, help pay for needed hospital personal and the corresponding loss of men’s protection equipment; making masks formalwear rental revenue. by the tens of thousands; ramped w Increased requests for refunds and up educational programmes; and returns, especially in the prom and customer service options to ease maids categories. reopening. w The loss of the March/April fall bridal season and its impact on spring Some steps will undoubtedly be with collections. us for the long term including: w Hesitations to travel and impact on w Low or no-cost webinars, video market.

w Consumer behavior, such as how this economic turmoil will impact the bride’s and special-occasion customer’s budgets, and how increased online purchasing will affect store traffic. Conversely, we can also expect: – Couples will still get married… though with less extravagant ceremonies and smaller bridal parties. – An increase in the number of quick weddings, with lower budgets. – A surge of brides booking appointments as stores reopen. – Fewer walk-ins as brides visit fewer stores and as stores require appointments. – An increase in closing ratios. – An increase in off-the-rack sales – Less drama, distractions and effort required for now virtual bridal entourages. – Renewed focus on stylist and newhire training programmes. – Well-maintained and hygienic store environments. – Stores re-evaluating e-commerce and delivery options, such as online accessory and maids’ sales delivered direct to consumer or for curbside pick-up. – Parents, communities, schools and stores working together to create prom and graduation ceremonies that are virtual, and/or smaller events orchestrated to comply with state restrictions. – A continued and expanded use of video and audio conferencing tools by all segments of the industry to interact, promote and educate. – Manufacturers repositioning unseen Fall ‘20 collections for Spring ‘21 with a small number of new designs. Clearly the positives may not seem to overcome the negatives, especially since many of the answers to this incomplete list of worrying points are not yet apparent. Yet there is reason to be optimistic… as an industry we are well positioned and motivated… and have long taken the steps that recent circumstances are forcing on others.

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ALLUREBRIDALS.COM



E L L IE ’ S P L ACE

plans and those who have handed over the reins to insolvency agencies are all normal things lately. Bridal however, has always been different, we sell product that requires emotional and physical engagement. Our biggest enemy is not that our clients will find an alternative online option (though some may); our biggest enemy now is knowing how and when we will be able to get back to the physical engagement part of our job, the part of our job that me. I guess I felt predicting what currently is not allowed – and rightly will happen is impossible, offering platitudes of positivity is not my place so. Clearly until the two-metre social and pretending all will be normal any distancing rules change we are going time soon is plain naive. I did, however, to struggle. Not just physically seeing people but way bigger than that. Until agree to do my usual column and the rules change, weddings will NOT I did find it cathartic and helpful to empty my thoughts onto paper. In this be allowed, and I fear that change won’t happen until we find a vaccine. humbling time I hope they are useful and I thank you for reading. The impact of Covid-19 in such a Interestingly, though, are the short time has changed the norms comments from retailers generally. we built our businesses upon. It has I speak to over 30 different retailers created enormous challenges for in various closed groups and they all the Global economy, which is still in have waiting lists of girls eager to get free fall; it has ripped apart supply into their shops to buy. I too have lots chains, paralysed retailers and left us of emails and messages asking to join all feeling a little helpless, depressed, my waiting list. However, as I have an sometimes hopeful and other times online booking system I fire them over worried. Redundancies are being there and I have deliberately left my announced by all major airlines as I online diary open so that we can get a type and the economy is shrinking. handle on demand (obviously closed I am sure you are sad watching up until lockdown deadlines) and our broken high streets fall to depths girls are booking in. July, August and we never imagined. They were on September are busy and this is great, in unstable footings but seeing retail fact it’s bloody amazing. (Can I swear giants cancelling autumn stock orders on here?) trying to preserve their cash flow is hard-core. Reading the list of retailers All that said, my one giant nagging who have called in the administrators, fear remains – will their weddings retailers who are negotiating rescue go ahead? Will they still have jobs in

We asked a number of top retailers – especially our regular columnists like Ellie – to get their thoughts on paper and share their feelings. The results will inspire you

F

irst thing’s first; I do hope everyone is keeping safe and healthy; this is such a tough and sad time especially for those of us that have lost of anyone close. It’s also a difficult time if you are caring for or helping others, or indeed in isolation alone. When Susi asked me to write my article I really didn’t want to. I asked for a month off but she said “NO”. She’s mean like that but I am glad she asked

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the next six months and are they just booking in because they are bored and have nothing else to do but plan their fantasy wedding. I may be 100% wrong and do sincerely hope I am. We do have to take a positive view though or we will all go insane and so we have much to do. Those of us who were in reasonable shape pre lockdown and have managed to negotiate rent cuts or holidays, reduced costs and obtained government support should survive this. We should simply put our precious businesses to sleep for a few months until its safe to come back out again. We should take this time to evaluate what we do and how we do it. This pandemic has stilled the world and made us reflect, review and revitalise. More than anything it has changed perspectives. Perspectives on what things and people are important. For me the usual Saturday appointments with girls and their entire family, six bridesmaids and more had become crazy and are now a thing of the past. I simply don’t want that scenario in my business and I know every retailer I have spoken to says the same. The silver lining here is that we are now in a brilliant position to manage our appointments from the ground up. We ALL need to decide that one guest; two at a push is what is the new norm. We entrepreneurs need to rise to this challenge and come out the other side of this stronger. And now here is my list of the top things we must be doing:

Stay connected We need to get connected to our community of retailers. Join facebook groups, join retail associations. Connect with like-minded business people. Do not allow yourself to become isolated and stressed. Stay visible – get social • Retailers, photographers, venues, florists all need to stay connected. Share posts and have each others’ back. • Let people in behind the scenes – show them how great you are. • Don’t be shy, get in front of the camera and connect. • Vulnerability is endearing (my greatest teacher brained that into me and it is utterly true). Get updated • Use this quiet time to update your business systems. • Consider a social media training course. • Change your finance systems. • Get online for everything you do. • Update your website. • Modify your Pinterest and Social media strategy. Honestly this is the one and only time our businesses will be this still for this long. This is a time to learn and achieve. We will come out of this, who knows when and who knows what it will look like, but people will always get married and I sincerely hope this lockdown has brought about a few proposals. In the meantime, my message to you is stay strong, stay safe and here’s to we all coming out of this soon.

Something to learn from I have used this time also to develop my other little company that I set up over nine months ago. It’s called Ellie Sanderson Social. I have a small team of brilliant girls who work with me and we manage the social media platforms for five different companies that vary in size and genre from restaurants to retail, from photographer to estate agents and this has been an amazing time for social growth. In this time of goodwill (and boredom) we are offering two bridal studios the opportunity to have an Ellie Sanderson Social Overhaul. We will review your set up and strategy across Instagram, Facebook and Twitter and pinterest. OFFER DETAILS Ellie Sanderson Social Two bridal studios – first come first picked, 100 miles away from Ellie Sanderson. The offer is to check that all social platforms are maximised for connections and set up correctly. We will run your SM for one week in order to coach and help you to take it on afterwards. Please send your details to elliesandersonsocial@gmail.com

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Curve

MY L EA R N IN G

Lockdown has been a very busy time for Abi Neill. She has restructured thoughts, attitudes and the way she runs her business and interacts with her brides. The results show she has got it right. Read on and be impressed...

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A

s I write we’re all braced for the latest in the series of government announcements; Boris is due to introduce the roadmap which will ease us out of lockdown and introduce the next set of measures that will supposedly guide us into the ‘new normal’. Obviously as bridal retailers it’s all rather worrying since we’re very much customer facing and physically embracing! Ordinarily, we style our brides up close and personal, we gather in huddles for celebration and cuddles! Let’s be honest; it’s all going to be very different when we are finally given the green light to open. The ramifications for many business sectors are huge – including ours. Social distancing, PPE masks and gloves, enhanced hygiene deep cleans, a reduction to the number of guests and appointments in-store and that’s without knowing when weddings can actually take place! Wedding dress shopping is an emotional and celebratory affair and the challenge for us all is how to stay connected to our customers during our new style of appointment, how to ramp up sales and claw back some of what’s lost and how we move to meet guidelines so that we can continue to thrive - safely! Inevitably, we don’t have all of the answers yet, so our plan of attack

isn’t fully formulated. But it will be and as gloomy as I may sound, we are determined to embrace the new normal and adjust the business model to whatever it needs to be for the safety and security of our team and customers. We’ll adapt and be as flexible and agile as possible to make it work! In

short; we will come back stronger! Don’t know about you, but it has been really tough so if you’ve been having your own personal breakdowns behind closed doors, don’t worry; at one stage or another, I think we all have! Cut yourself some slack because physically, mentally and financially it’s been bloody awful! One aspect that we’ve tried to maintain (as a business) is visibility

and lots of proactive customer communication. We made the decision early to stay as connected and available for our customers as possible. Lots of fantastic retailers have done so well and in many cases far better than us. Take a look at social and you’ll find them shining out from their Insta stories and Facebook posts. There have been some innovative, inspiring and very caring ways that retailers have shown compassion. From personalised gift sending to ‘Insta-story spotlighting’ couples. It has been really moving to see and they’ll reap the rewards and be busier than ever when the time comes. Hats off to you all, it’s taken a lot of energy and time (and in some cases money) to maintain marketing, to stay connected and to honour your couples and acknowledge the emotional disruption they’ve faced whilst you face your own personal and business demons. Getting into a very different gear Retrospectively, I feel we could (and will do) more to reach out but I console myself that I didn’t just stick up a closed sign with a message that said ‘we’re sorry we can’t trade and to mail us if they need anything’. What we have done is try to lean in, reach out, reassure, empathise and connect. We quickly made ourselves available on a mobile number 24/7 and decided that a response within a few hours was fundamental. At times of crisis, especially when anxiety is at an all-time high customer contact,

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have bought and face wedding day fast response, open communication time’ and give them the opportunity postponement, and new brides who and an expression of emotional to talk about their wedding and style are yet to purchase and will now support are really key. ideas... and dreams experience the ‘new normal’ in our We decided to ditch our It was pretty informal and great newsletters and bin widespread ‘same bridal boutiques. fun! Pre-meeting, I encouraged them All of them need reassurance and message to all’ emails. We have tried to grab a favourite cocktail and I to send more individual messages via all of them still want to look forward to prepared some questions. their future celebrations and wedding text, phone calls and facebook. It worked well. They loved it From the get-go we decided it was shopping experience. I’ve found and although it was obviously a they desperately want to talk about our mission to text every customer little nerve-wracking for some of their future plans for their incredible with a personalised individual them to go virtual with me I found message, a genuine ‘how I was able to put them at are you? Hope you are ease pretty quickly. Our ok, we’re here when and VA brides are now hyped Reach out and connect with your if you need us’ message; about their appointments it took four days but was existing and future customers and show and keen to buy a dress, worth it. The reciprocal which under the ‘temporarily concern conveyed back to them that you are there to support them closed’ circumstance is us was massively uplifting really exciting. It felt like a and really helped us worthwhile exercise and was any which way you can psychologically. the tonic I needed to maintain Many customers sent my connection with the heart weddings. It’s a hopeful and optimistic of our business. personal messages. It deepened our sign that they’re going to want to connections and gave us something Whatever you have or haven’t done, come in and experience the joy of positive to focus on – if you haven’t it’s okay. There is still time – pick up done so yet I’d definitely recommend wedding dress shopping – even if it is the phone, send a text, make some whilst wearing a mask, at a distance that you follow this course. calls, go live, say hello on Insta, send of two metres, and whilst being an email, invite some brides to try a drenched and sprayed top to toe in virtual with you! Sharing news hand sanitizer! Reach out and connect with your It’s certainly been a time for existing and future customers and compassion, patience and Going virtual show them that you are there to understanding. We’ve been as support them any which way you can! transparent and honest as we can be It was for that very reason that we conducted some virtual Furthermore, remember to join in and about deliveries and a potential recelebrate with your brides. Your head opening plan. We’ve tried to share our appointments. Some retailer friends in the States may be currently filled with insecurity experience of this as a family through (and some here in the UK, too) have and uncertainty but their heads are our Instagram stories and Facebook – ‘keeping it real’ has been important really embraced online appointments still in wedding planning mode and many brides and grooms are still with not too much sell sell sell and as with brides via Zoom and Ffacetime many upbeat distractions as possible. and several (particularly in the States) excited to plan for the biggest day of have successfully (and perhaps their lives! We’ve gone live on several controversially) started sending out Good luck with all. Make your plans occasions, posted on social (a lot), and selling dresses as a result. and get ready to come back stronger sent out cards, hosted a couple Our virtuals were an online personal x of watch party fashion shows and opportunity to get to know our future launched a ‘Hero Gown Giveaway brides, talk about their wedding initiative’ for keyworkers and NHS Abi Neill has won 28 business awards staff who have yet to find a gown and plans and ready them for an in-store and is a longstanding bridal industry appointment. would like to be nominated for a free enthusiast! I focused on boosting selfdress – it has been a brilliant success If you wish to discuss customer and I’m glad we are doing something confidence, chatting through any connection, social media or your own insecurities and suggested which proactive to reward front line and retail comeback, you can reach Abi designers and styles of ours to keyworker brides. and talk about her coaching services consider. My intention wasn’t to ‘sell’ In some ways we have two sets of via www.abineill.co.uk or 07725 804917 a dress or send any out to try. It was customers to cushion and support: or via the boutique’s Instagram purely to treat the brides to some ‘me @abigailscollection. existing brides and grooms who

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www.morilee.co.uk


ON THE DOT W Shannon Martin of Dotty Bridal has a go-get-‘em approach to ensure that when the doors of her two Holmfirth shops reopen, she and her team are all set and ready for business

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e are in a strange unknown situation at present and things are so difficult to understand. I have no clue how to continue operating my boutiques whilst the doors are closed, and we are not allowed to see ‘people’ in general. All our lives have been turned upside down, but we can draw so many positives from this


mood and mindset and gives you again; if we did that we would have awful situation. I am no expert and more energy to focus on your to-do no chance of attracting new brides cannot tell you what the right way is lists. Whether it’s a brisk walk, yoga or to do things right now, but sharing my because all our time would be consumed with sorting and arranging a run... take time away from your desk thoughts on it all might just help you and get your heart rate up; you will current orders and rightly so – those to feel like you aren’t alone. thank yourself for it. My biggest struggle at the moment brides deserve our undivided Another important aspect of our attention. And that’s what we can now is that I have so many ideas and jobs business and something we are give them. on my never-ending lists (note the often told we do well is bringing plural) but I can’t tick them off as I personality into the Dotty brand. If The right message have two small children to look after you follow Dotty on social media you We are spending serious time and a husband who is still working will see my mug all over our pages, communicating effectively and full time. So instead of feeling demoralised at efficiently with our brides and we feel not just my mug but the whole teams’ on top of things right now. This current mugs. This has always been a biggy the end of each day, I am now telling for me in marketing Dotty. I myself I have accomplished whole heartedly believe in the something. I have kept my Treat this time as a pause, a time to statement that people buy children safe, entertained from people. them and enjoyed my time plan, reflect and most importantly If you like someone, and feel with them – surely this is an prepare for an amazing return to the like they are your friend, you achievement. Actually, I am honestly industry. Bridal retailing as we know is will be much more comfortable parting with your hard-earned so grateful for this ‘pause hard and full-on all the time. You can cash. Therefore, the team period’ and that is exactly I have always been at the what I am thinking of it never take your foot off the gas because and forefront of the Dotty story. as. I often used to say to my husband and Betha if you do there will be someone nipping Putting yourself out there that I wish I had Bernard’s at your heels to get into your space. A lot of people ask me if I get Watch (remember the scared making videos that are 90’s children’s TV series in Don’t allow that to happen. seen by so many people. The which a young boy could honest answer is no! I don’t stop time with a magical retake the videos millions of times – I pocket watch?). When the coronavirus pause has allowed Beth and I to just post them and hope people will respond faster to brides’ queries and hit I sat back and realised that now agree with what I’m saying! get them booked in from June when, was my time... I had been given It is so important to show your hopefully, our diary opens. Beth is Bernard’s Watch. responding to social media messages customers who they are likely to see There is not one person in this when they come into the boutique. fast but a tip from us is to only check world who the coronavirus has not We have seven staff members across your emails twice a day – say 10am affected, but I tell you something, I’m the two shops and I want brides to and 3pm. Be strict with yourself. not about to let it take my business! I’m not one for exercise usually but walk through the front doors and feel So, what am I doing? I’m carrying on, this situation has allowed me the time that they already know us and have trying to run the business as normal, to do it and honestly I feel that getting walked into a room of friends. albeit with no staff. Ask your followers what they want We need to keep things moving, to out every or every other day has really to know about the team, what do they helped clear my mind and enabled get our brides’ dresses in, to ensure want to see, who do they want to me to focus on what is important that we provide the best and most see. Just make sure you always give about my business. It has also given supportive level of service. me some time away from being mum options… if you don’t, they won’t reply. We are receiving deliveries, Brides need everything offered to and allowed me to be Shannon! I now diverted to my home address; brides them on a plate – most don’t have feel that if we can get through this are still paying their balances and the imagination to envisage an ivory working with our designers who have unscathed then we can get through dress in white let alone to think up anything. helped where they can, to postpone your social media content for you. Ask Thinking positive is the absolute shipments. If that can’t be done we them if they would they like to see key during this unsettling time. It is are storing gowns for our brides to behind-the-scenes stuff or dresses on facilitate new wedding dates, most of so easy to dwindle into a negative real brides? Don’t worry about things mindset, but we have to remain which now are in 2021. upbeat and think about the positives. being perfect all the time, people like We cannot simply stop and real people. 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Could This Be The Change Our Industry Needs? I

Helen Lord of Lulu Browns challenges traditional beliefs and attitudes, analyses ‘befores’, considers ‘afters’, and examines her own buying habits. Here she talks us through the good she has gained from lockdown

write this listening to my sons playing downstairs, happy and content in their new way of life. I’m working from home. Not a 9-5 – far from it – but I am managing to find certain times of the day more productive than others and adapting to this change has been rather swift. I’ve been a retailer on the British high street for nearly 15 years. I traded through the last recession and I am no stranger to tight budgets and worrying times. We are now, however, all sailing on uncharted waters, some (perhaps all) with boats ill prepared for such a storm. Both wholesalers and retailers alike. Could this be the time for great change in our industry? Change that has felt a long time in coming... Choice is not always a good thing It’s April 2019, I’m sat on a stand at Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week with Jess, Lulu’s manager. We are looking at over 450 – yes 450 – dresses, from one designer... and, of course, their many sub brands. Do I need to choose from 450 gowns, half of which are well below average? For the first time in my career I felt

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uneasy. Ashamed that I am part of an industry that promotes such colossal waste. The industry that is fashion. So I stopped buying minimum orders from that point. If I couldn’t find the dresses I loved – and I do mean love – I didn’t buy. Simple. I still place regular, healthy orders with my designers but my focus is very much on my repeats. No more ‘filler gowns’ enter Lulu’s door; no more gowns are there to make up the numbers. I haven’t made these buying decisions to make a stand but because I want to be part of change. Change that sees designers being mindful of what they are producing. Really analysing their collection and thinking “why am I producing a sub brand? Does the industry need it?”. Over the past year I’ve had a glimpse at wholesale life, too, as I’ve worked alongside a British manufacturer. I’ve seen life on the other side of the fence and for those of you wondering, the grass is not greener, I promise you. But it has given me a new perspective. Of course designers’ collections need a great representation in our boutiques and

I’m stuck in a buying rut? Or perhaps it means that I’ve bought well... invested well, even? I’ve discussed at length with my team and peers, the notion that timeless gowns should be able to be retailed for years. Proudly. A classic design is something to be celebrated, year after year. I’m also happy to buy from a collection of 20 gowns. I don’t need to see a best seller ‘updated’ and I absolutely do not what to see 60 I stopped buying fishtail gowns all very much a version of themselves. minimums. If I couldn’t We are a saturated market on every level and the time for change find the dresses I loved is now. More is not more. Supply chains – and I do mean love – I need to be secure and we need to start working together, retailer and didn’t buy. Simple. manufacturer, because without one But this can only happen if buyers are the other ceases to exist. I believe in bridal. I always have receptive to the idea. Yes, we all want to see new, fashion- and I always will. It’s one of the few forward styles, the thrill of something sectors of fashion that has a great different to feast your eyes on. But I am chance of coming out of the other side of this, maybe even stronger. also proud to still be retailing gowns The time for reflection and I’ve had in my boutique for more than change is now and I wish you all the five years. Does this mean my boutique hasn’t very best of luck. For we are and moved quickly enough? Does it mean always were, in this together. that comes with a level of investment, unquestionably, and if there’s one thing I love, it is buying! Buying responsibly and with confidence in my stock and its longevity. My assumptions that designers ‘had’ to produce this amount of gowns was rubbished rather quickly. I soon discovered that collections can be produced mindfully and ethically without the need for mass production.

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To Make You Giggle Always look at the bright side of life. In these difficult times Laura Daly says you still need to smile. And she is right. Her advice might not be practical this time round, but it is thoroughly enjoyable. Just what we need

hope that there may be at least one little nugget or gem you can take away and use to your advantage when we finally spring back into action.

1 Merchandising You’ll need to rearrange your merchandise so that it can’t be touched by anyone other than someone from As I write, I haven’t a clue when we your own household, and possibly t’s five o’clock on a Monday retailers will be able to open our doors one other person from close family afternoon in May and, at this point but a different household. It’s still not in the year, like most of us, I should again; possibly June, maybe July... nobody knows. And, when will the ban certain if children are carriers or not, so be quietly cursing the telephone on weddings be lifted? Let’s hope we my advice would be to make sure all for ringing every second of the day can trade again in good time before gowns are hanging about three to four whilst feeling slightly overwhelmed that happens or I can’t imagine how will feet off the ground. That should do it. by mountains of orders, emails and we service all the dresses for all those As it’s also suspected that the virus can deliveries. I should also be merrily linger on fabrics, you’ll need at least flitting between appointments, pouring those weddings. I’d hoped that, by the time I got to two of every style in your shop; one on Prosecco and spreading the Bellissima the rail, the other soaking out the back magic and sparkle. It’s that warm glow write this column, the way forward would have been a little clearer. Don’t in Dettol. of knowing you’ve done your bit to get me wrong, I understand that firm create a priceless memory for your plans can’t be made for anything on 2 What to wear customer that gets you through the the moving sands of a worldwide There has been a lot of talk about difficult times, isn’t it? pandemic, but it’s no secret to anyone what is suitable PPE for bridal retailers This year, however, I’m sitting on who knows me that I like a plan. and seamstresses. After much my sofa at home, listening to Prime I’m good with plans. Plans keep me consideration, I think a full hazmat suit Minister’s Questions... I’m still feeling calm. Plans have my back. Plans are should be the way to go. White or ivory, overwhelmed but for very different my friends! So, I’ve decided to draw up obviously. Wowcher had a great price reasons. I almost want to scream but I on them last week and it will save on know that won’t help and there’s little in a little list for when we reopen, based on the information we’ve been given to staff uniform, too. You could consider the way of a feel-good factor to offset date along with all the helpful tips I’ve accessorising it with a little bling for a the misery of this Covid nightmare, so I’ve poured a glass of wine. Just a small picked up from those endlessly reliable more personalised approach – possibly resources, Facebook and Twitter. I do add a belt, or maybe heels for a more one, you understand.

I

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formal look. The last thing you want to do is frighten your customers but the good thing is that they won’t see much of you so you’ll get an extra hour in bed in the mornings because you won’t need to do your hair and make-up.

– safe disposal of cup – sanitisation – new gloves on, new mask on. Bit of a kerfuffle. Maybe just don’t bother, as I reckon you only have about half-anhour tops with your customers before somebody slips into a coma due to hazmat heat exhaustion syndrome.

has been waved. We all know that everyone asks for something A-line, or slim-fit, or a ballgown, so there’s no need to worry about walking around all the dresses. There probably never was but, these days, we have a good reason to avoid it. 3 Customers Personally, I’d start with a slightly 5 Social distancing For your customers, it goes without fitted A-line that fulfils most We are now all familiar with the twosaying that they will need to be croprequirements quite capably, and could metre rule – some of us have been dusted with disinfectant before they easily be the one. enter the premises. There are currently practising it for years. I even know Keeping your distance from some cracking machines on eBay and, some people who had easily got it to everyone in the room, usher your bride if you get in quickly, they’ll even throw into her changing room and pass in at least five metres before all of this in some pesticide. her dress. In my experience, a short even started. The bride will have to prove she has underarm flick works best and has less However, for those who insist on a minimum of ten face masks with her, getting too close and, heaven forbid, impact on your back. So you flick, and as they need to be changed every ten look like they may lean in near enough jump back. You should start practising minutes. If you’re keen on saving the this now before you open, you don’t to hear what you’re saying, it’s good planet, then don’t worry about rubber practice to mark out two-metre spaces want to look stupid doing it. or plastic gloves for her, as they aren’t Over time, you may be able to throw all over your shop floor with some really needed at all. However, if you the dress straight over her head, but yellow and green health-and-safetydon’t really care about the turtles, then approved tape. this takes considerable practice. For she MUST bring at least a full box. the first few weeks, as long as you get A handy tip here is to enquire as Ideally, she will also need to it somewhere in the changing room it’s to where your customers hail from. sanitise either the gloves or her hands In mainland Europe, some countries all cool. Close the curtain with a long continuously with soap and water while only need to keep a metre apart, so stick or pole. Whilst your bride gets out giving her best rendition of Happy of her PPE and wiggles into the dress, it might be worth putting down some Birthday to You, twice over.. That may you may have time to do a short tap alternative markers in a contrasting be difficult, though, as I’d recommend colour just to be on the safe side. After dance or a couple of stretches. Thereby keeping your customer toilet closed getting in your daily exercise, too. all, the last thing you want to do is to unless you employ an attendant to At some point, the bride will have to alienate anybody or be accused of deep clean it after every visit. Hand gel xenophobia. come out from behind the curtain as is a good substitute, then. After she’s she won’t be able to resist finding out used it three times, you’ll just have to what all the rustling and grunts are. 6 The Appointment ask her to leave, though, as it loses its She’ll also need doing up or clipping So you’ve let your customers in; they effectiveness beyond that. in. This is your moment to dive behind and you are suitably clothed and her, ninja-style, perform the task, and disinfected. You can forget speaking 4 Guests evacuate again to a safe distance. Voilà! to each other through the chemical Ideally, you want zero contamination, There you have it – first dress and grade filters and masks, so you’ll need so zero guests is the perfect scenario. strike! Answer any mimed questions to establish some form of accepted Ha! In your face, American reality communication. Mime, perhaps, or sign about the dress by pointing with your shows... and yay to British reality. If you language. Or possibly prompt cards. I stick. If you’ve gone over 30 minutes, were looking for a silver lining in all of the guest will have limited time before favour the latter as you can cut to the this mess, then there it is. chase very easily using: ‘yes’, ‘no’, ‘I love they need to get out of your shop, so If, however, your customer simply it’, ‘pay now’ - and completely do away will be firmly on your side and willing to won’t comply, then one guest may be get that ‘yes’ card out very quickly. with ‘maybe, I’ll think about it’, ‘I need permitted provided they attend in full The sight of you standing by the to show my cat’, and so on. clinical PPE. Alternatively, you could bride-to-be in a hazmat suit, wielding I would suggest seating the guest email them the Wowcher link ahead of as far away as possible from everyone a big stick whilst they slowly suffocate the appointment. will have absolutely nothing to do with and everything in your shop to avoid As everyone will be wearing their decision. Take the sale knowing all any risk of cross-contamination. Just masks, no refreshments can be your obligations to your customers and make sure that they have a clear line served unless, of course, you factor staff have been met and maybe even of sight to the changing room and are in time for the mask removal and safe exceeded. fairly near to an air conditioning unit disposal – gloves removal and safe You see, once you’ve got a plan, you as you don’t want them slipping out of disposal – sanitisation – sip of drink consciousness before the ‘I love it’ sign can’t go wrong! M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 39


In My Opinion Sue Lovell, owner of SNOB – Susan Nichols Opulent Bride and founder of BrideCo, says we must all look at ways of being environmentally responsible

O

n New Year’s Eve, someone close to me raised a glass and offered a toast: “May we live in interesting times!” Interesting times? It doesn’t quite cover the vast range of emotions that we as a country have had in just a few short months. Oh, how we wanted the uncertainty of Brexit to be over! Regardless of politics, we just longed for a time when the B-word was not top of the nightly news and not every conversation started with “After Brexit…” We knew that once January 2020 was over there would be a new chapter, and we hoped it would bring some certainty. But straight after the B-word came the C-word – within days of the Brexit celebrations/commiserations we had a new word to worry about: Coronavirus. By early February, Coronavirus was still on the other side of the world. Our only worry was the effect it would have on deliveries. No one saw this coming – we thought we would be immune! By mid-March, Covid 19 seemed to be the only topic. The enforced shutdown brought with

it a roller coaster of emotions, the initial panic was heightened by devastated brides calling in despair, postponing weddings and cancelling appointments. Every conversation seemed to start with: “When things get back to normal… ” I must admit that when Boris told us to lock the doors and stay home, I was unnerved. That was quickly followed by complete bewilderment. That first Saturday, with nowhere to go, no one to see, no celebratory message to post, I found myself singing a very poor version of Dusty Springfield’s I Just Don’t Know What To Do With Myself. Because I didn’t. My ‘normal’ became temporarily obsolete. However, if we were lucky, if we only suffered by being told to stay home and were relatively untouched by the virus, what we were given was a gift

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(admittedly, it was a gift delivered in a perverse and twisted way); even if we are apart this crisis has brought us together. We can see that we are not alone. The world hit the pause button and we were given time to reset and review our own situations. Once we realised that worrying wouldn’t change the outcome (and once we put our personal/family needs at the top of the to-do list, made sure our loved ones were disinfected, sterilised and set up to be fed/entertained around the clock), we had time to think. Many of us have been so busy with our businesses, so focused on where we are and what we are doing right now, that we haven’t given ourselves time to actually think about what really matters, and what we really want. Staying at home during late March


need to go to the experts in the and we won’t take it for granted – not and April gave us that time. We have yet. Soon the madness of the past few field, a professional who will guide all been given a lesson and what we us. Of course, we can find insurance months will be a memory. take for granted has suddenly come ourselves, but is it the right policy? But in all our comeback plans, under the spotlight. And if we weren’t Could saving a few pounds over are we preparing for when madness aware of it before, we surely are now. the year cost us dearly in the event strikes again? We need to. We didn’t We know who and what we value, of a claim? Not just in terms of our how much we mean to others, and we see a pandemic coming – but now business insurance, but also our life we are in the very fortunate position are aware of how quickly things can insurance. Now is the time to check of knowing what we need to do to change. on our policies. It is as important as Now we are in May, hurtling towards survive another one. This is maybe a a June/July that is different to anything once-in-a-lifetime event – it has been engaging with brides, or preparing the shop floor. It is too important to we have experienced. Do we want our so far, and we all hope we won’t see put on the bottom of the to-do list. another one, but none of us knows working life to return to ‘normal’? Do This needs to be near the top, and we what the future will bring. we want it to be ‘business as usual’ should go to the professionals. When a bride says she is looking or has this time we have been given I know how quickly life can change. online for the cheapest version of forced us to reassess our situation? In late 2017, I flounced out of my office For many the thought of going back a wedding dress, we know she will after a very stressful day, announcing not get the quality, service or the to normal is not comforting. Life has that I needed time to think. suddenly given us an insight It seemed everyone wanted into how things could be and a new path away from Difficult times can often bring a new a piece of me, my time, my thoughts and my input. I bridal is exciting, and full of opportunities. perspective and that can be challenging always had places to be, and there was not enough time Difficult times can often to think. bring a new perspective and but also liberating My parting words to my that can be challenging but staff were: “I just want to lie also liberating. So for some, down in a dark place and in silence - I expertise that we offer. She may get the downtime has confirmed what need time to think”. a wedding dress but it won’t be the was already known deep down – it is The universe was listening, and less best that is on offer, one that gives her time for a change. Exciting times lie than an hour later, I was on my back everything she wants and needs to ahead, but perhaps for a few, away in a field looking up at the stars – and feel special. from bridal. not in a good way. It was pitch black, We are experts in our field, we For some of us though, it has been deadly quiet, and I was underneath a know our products and we know the a time to refocus and to look at not Fiat 500. I had been a passenger in the value our expertise brings to a bride. what we do but how we do it. The car which was involved in an accident. usual background noise was silenced It may cost more than she wanted to The driver was in shock but and we have been given time to think initially pay, but as we always say: you thankfully unhurt. I wasn’t. For over get what you pay for. We know our without interruption or distraction. four hours, two kind strangers held my worth. So when it comes to insuring Preparation for a successful return hand and waited with me for help to our stores, our own lives, are we the is key and we have had plenty of arrive. I had broken my back in three equivalent of the internet bride? preparation time. Whether our places and most of my ribs. Life was We all now know you can’t insure comeback is bigger or smaller than suddenly looking very different. Once against a pandemic, but we must not before, we know it will be better. I was able to breathe again on my be complacent or dismissive of the Whilst all the usual housekeeping benefits of insurance. The government own (and after they had taken away matters will keep us busy for a while, reorganising, refreshing and updating has stepped in this time to help us out the good drugs!) I had to think about my future and my business. It hadn’t in areas where our insurance hasn’t the premises, we can’t forget to stopped because I had. It still needed been able to, but circumstances engage with our customers, and to carry on, but I wasn’t physically or change, and now is a good time to social media will be jam-packed look at what we do really need when a mentally able to return for six months. with ideas and positive posts letting That is when I realised what truly crisis hits again. brides know what to expect. The Perhaps ‘compare the market’ is not mattered, and the importance of a excitement is back, we are well rested, comprehensive insurance policy. the first place we should be thinking we remember why we do what we Hindsight in 2020: that has never of visiting online when considering do and we can’t wait to seize all the been more true! our insurance requirements. We opportunities that we have identified,

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“We were a long way down the line and everything was sorted after very many months of planning. With so much happening and happening so suddenly of course it was a shock and a disappointment but when we do marry next year we will appreciate it so much. We had allowed only for family and close friends anyway, and our planner is looking at outdoor possibilities now so that we can stay within guidelines. My dress? I am going to wear exactly what I had chosen and ordered. As soon as the boutique opens I will try it on again and may even take it home.”

Out of the Mouths of (Bridal) Babes... Couples all over the world have had to move their wedding plans. But move is the operative word. They are not cancelling, but simply shifting to a later date so that they will be able to celebrate in style “I don’t mind having to wait for an all-

so I can approach next year with a

clear signal from the government.

clear head. And the minute the shops

That’s far better than worrying about

open I am going to try on every single

whether you are doing the right

dress that appeals to me. Finding

thing. We cancelled our wedding

‘the one’ will be more special than

just before it became mandatory,

ever because of all this.”

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“Well we were planning a destination wedding – to Italy, of all places. Obviously that got cancelled and after much conversation we decided we would replan, but keep everything close to home. We haven’t made a final decision yet but I think we will have a very small wedding, immediate family only, no party so to speak, and then go on a really swish honeymoon when all of the travel restrictions have been lifted. The shop I was dealing with has been brilliant and given me a credit note for the payment I had made on the dress I originally ordered. They’ve invited me for a glass of bubbly when they re-open and have been sending me info on dresses they think I might like.”


“We really couldn’t afford what we were planning anyway, and this whole virus thing has made us think about what’s important. I was really getting carried away

“It’s amazing how your values change when there is a catastrophe. We now want our two small children with us when we get married, which we weren’t planning on before and had recruited my aunt, who hates crowds, to take charge of them. All that has changed. I will not be looking for that sexy siren dress I had promised myself. Instead I want something simple and beautiful and quiet. We lost my sister to the virus. She had what they call ‘underlying issues’ but she was only 45. I won’t be ready to say “I do” for a while yet, though.”

before but now I just want to say ‘I do’ somewhere nice and with just a few special friends – you do realise at times like this who those are. We haven’t made our minds up yet, but what we do will be low-key and valued forever.”

“2021 will be our year. I had wanted to get married in 2019 but we thought 2020 had a great ring about it! Shows how wrong you can be, doesn’t it? A bit of me regrets not having done it last year before this horrible virus happened, but we didn’t and there’s no turning back, only going forward. Luckily, we hadn’t paid deposits

for anything and both our jobs are secure. I think we will look to the end of next year, to be sure there’s no return of the problems, and we’ll have a celebration at one of the really nice hotels in the countryside near us. My dress? I am starting to look now at social media and suggestions from others about particular collections.” M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 43


Time To Get Savvy Maria Musgrove compares the current situation we are in to that faced by the astronauts manning Apollo 13. Fast and thorough action is what saved them, she says, and we need to learn from that “Houston, we’ve had a problem” were the words used to report the explosion aboard Apollo 13. Since then, the erroneous phrase ‘Houston, we have a problem’ has been in use to express the emergence of an unforeseen problem. Astronauts Swigert, Haise and Lovell would use the same phrase today to describe Covid-19, perhaps with an expletive added before the word problem! This year, 17 th April marked the 50th anniversary of Apollo 13’s safe return to earth after what was intended to be NASA’s third moon-landing mission. The craft launched from Kennedy Space Center on 11th April 1970, but the lunar landing was aborted after an oxygen tank in the service module failed two days into the mission. Because of the explosion, the crew orbited the moon instead and pointed the spacecraft back home to earth. However, they encountered a cascade of problems, all with life-threatening consequences. The Apollo 13 crew and staff tackled these problems with incredible agility and accountability, ultimately landing the three astronauts back on earth safely.

Historic events like this teach us a great deal about how to remain agile in a crisis and how resilience wins out. The article I researched suggests that, as leaders, we can use this time to pause, look at the bigger picture and innovate solutions to problems that may at first appear insolvable. The main step in remaining agile and taking accountability for success is the willingness to see reality. On a space mission, any issue is a matter of life or death. When the Apollo 13 oxygen tank blew, the first step was to calculate the distance between earth and the point in the spaceship’s journey when critical resources would run out. Mission Control quickly assessed the amount of each essential needed for the crew to make it back alive – water, power, and reducing carbon dioxide being the main concerns. Details like these are critical; without this level of clarity, it’s impossible to know exactly what problems need to be solved. What they discovered was horrifying: the failing Command Module couldn’t support the crew’s return.

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Recognising the likeness It takes courage to acknowledge the reality of a crisis. If we’re to come through the current situation we need to be accepting of what happened and not be in denial. Looking at the Reactive Change Model, opposite. I bet Mission Control and crew didn’t sit around at shock/denial/paralysis saying: “I don’t believe it/We haven’t got a clue what to do/It can’t have happened again/13 is an unlucky number, we’re doomed”. If we’re anywhere in the red zone on the change curve we won’t be able to see reality as we may still be in denial, feeling helpless, angry and/or hurt (understandable emotions but can be debilitating). We need to work out where we are on the change curve with regard to Covid 19 and how it will affect our business: The quicker we’re able to move from the red zone to green, the better. Resilient people get the anger and hurt out of the way but some people get stuck at the bottom at ‘Healing’ for too long and play the ‘Poor Me, Woe is Me’ card instead of moving forward, and love to wallow in selfpity. Just look at some of the posts on the numerous forums and it’s easy to pinpoint who is where on this curve by what they say and how they’re saying it! My plan To move up to the green part of the curve we need to be prepared to see the full scope of a situation and be quick to respond to major issues that arise. In our Covid-19 disrupted world, it’s important to look at what priorities have shifted to keep our business on track to achieving results. I’ll share what my priorities are and my plans as to how I’ll deal with them. • Priority number one before we closed was to communicate with brides and get any outstanding balances. In my two boutiques, by taking the decision to close three days before lockdown, it meant that this was easier to achieve as brides could pay by card if they wanted and we had all of their details (we still run a paper system apart from diary management).


• My next priority is to keep in touch with brides and my team (even though they’re all furloughed). All emails are being answered and I have a weekly zoom call with my managers and we’ve set up a fun WhatsApp group to stay connected and that includes our self-employed seamstresses. Not rocket science (excuse the pun) but effective. • A huge priority is juggling money (what little we have as we all know that our retail bridal model is based on deposits paying the running costs and balances paying the gown invoices). At the time of writing I’m in receipt of one of the business grants so I’m in a better position to know what funds I have and I will be contacting my suppliers to negotiate payment terms. • Next priority is agreeing with my team how we can, in a close contact business, safely conduct appointments. We’ll be ordering masks, visors, gloves and sanitisers when they are available and when we’re not compromising the NHS. We’ll be further investigating how long the coronavirus could stay on fabric and the implications that has for new bridal appointments. It may mean that we can only take one appointment a day, need to limit the number of people at an appointment (no hardship there!), and provide masks, visors and gloves for the bride (can you imagine?). And of course we need to ascertain what this is going to cost and what our

charges may have to be. Low on my priority list is setting up virtual appointments as I see it fraught with problems – ie return of gowns, charging for gowns, cleaning of gowns etc. I’d be up for looking at doing an initial virtual consultation with a bride to build a relationship ready for when she comes into the boutique. Way down as a priority is even thinking about looking at and investing in new season’s collections. I applaud the brands that are doing virtual catwalks but for me it’s just not a priority. Survival is my number one priority as I’m sure it was for those astronauts on Apollo 13. I bet they weren’t going to get distracted by thoughts of their next mission, what’s for dinner or the interviews they would be having upon their return. When it became clear that they would have to abandon the Command Module for the Lunar Module they asked: “What else can I do?” and quickly designed a supplementary carbon dioxide removal system following instructions from Mission Control. What was even more amazing was that the astronauts had only one hour to build the device out of plastic bags, cardboard, parts from a lunar suit and a lot of tape. Wise words Covid-19 is about crisis and change and was best summed up by

President Kennedy in 1959, who said: “When written in Chinese, the word ‘crisis’ is composed of two characters. One represents danger and the other represents opportunity.” In times of crisis, the question “What else can I do?” is not about doing more but about shifting the way we think and act to achieve the result. I challenge you to view this as opportunity and move up the change curve and set some new goals. We’re setting up Bridal Live in our two boutiques as this can be classed as training for my furloughed teams. On a personal level I’m working hard on re-launching the online training membership site Get Savvy and adding Bridal Stylist Sales training to the offer.

Maria Musgrove-Wethey is director of The Pantiles Bride and Go Bridal in Tunbridge Wells. In March this year she and Chrisitne Skilton launched their new venture Get Savvy with the aim of unlocking the secrets of successful bridal boutiques. Get Savvy is a members-only group offering online training and consultancy that can be accessed anywhere and at any time. Whether you’re starting up, selling up or fed up or somewhere in between then join the group as it’s the 2020 way of working on your business rather than in your business. Coming soon online is Bridal Stylist Sales Training, too. To find out more either email getsavvy@boutiquepulse.com or follow the link to join the waiting list. http://boutiquepulse.com/

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WILDERLYBRIDE.COM


From An Agent’s Point Of View Michelle Blackburn of Krystal Bridal Agency and the brands she represents – Casablanca Bridal and Tres Chic – have been devoting time to building relationships and meeting retailers’ needs

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ack in March, while attending a number of early trade exhibitions, updates were breaking about Covid 19 but I could never have envisaged what lifechanging events were about to unfold. Within days, many retailers voiced concern about the sense and safety of attending shows – in particular London Bridal Fashion Week which is a key feature in the industry, and an event that both suppliers and retailers feel is the start point of the buying season. Others had confirmed they would be there and needed something to focus on. However... any form of positivity soon became thoughts of uncertainty as the days leading up to the show drew closer. Then the decision was made to postpone the event. That was when reality started to hit home. We knew that dates for shows scheduled in Italy, France, Germany and the US had been shifted but when it was announced here it put a whole different perspective on business.

Communication is key and listening to what all parties have to say about their respective concerns and needs is paramount. We have to keep each other informed of all situations and the unexpected predicaments that may arise. A call, an email, a message, From that point, everyday life as and above all reassurance and we knew it changed dramatically and patience, are needed. totally, both on a business level and As suppliers we need to take our also in our personal lives. retailers’ individual business needs During my 21 years in the bridal into account, and to be there for them Industry I have experienced various as and when they need help and challenges but guidance. I don’t think All businesses anything could – regardless of We are at the dawn of a have prepared size – rely on me – or anyone new era which, if handled cashflow for else for thsat their survival correctly, will see the matter – for and we have where we were emergence true partnerships to be a patient heading. and mindful of Weeks, then that in these months, and very many tragedies unprecedented times. Boutiques are later, there is still confusion in bridal closed, factories have been closed, as suppliers and retailers face the many staff furloughed. Understanding same struggles to cope and survive and compromise are needed. the effects of the pandemic. We Cashflow is equally important to face the same obstacles every day; suppliers, so while retailers may not the unknown as to when or whether be able to meet their full financial things will ever return to what we had commitments, what payments can be and knew before. made will be gratefully received and Vital is that we – retailers and allow us to continue operating and suppliers – work through this together. ensuring deliveries to our customers.

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How can we best help our stockists move forward, especially when it comes to new collections? The continued monitoring of ongoing pricing is going to be more crucial than ever; the importance of keeping gowns at an affordable price point is a priority but without compromising quality. And no minimum order requirements will allow retailers to make the buying decisions that work best for them. Working in a different way As we are unable to visit stores, we are trading on the phone and virtually – the internet has now become our lifeline. We are offering our stockists online marketing and sales tools along with virtual buying packages and in-depth descriptions that enable them to select gowns confidently. And to carry the message forward, new collections are being posted on websites and social media platforms. I’m very fortunate in that both the brands I represent own their manufacturing facilities and can be flexible and adjust to change and the needs of our customers. Regular information regarding production and shipping schedules instills further confidence. And when businesses open up again, we will continue to

provide samples for trunk shows and loan of samples. From my point of view As an agent, I see and experience the situation from both the supplier’s and the retailer’s perspective. The two often feel they have different needs and see situations in different ways but as agents we are able to bring these needs together and help find a balance which facilitates managing expectations while cementing longterm and successful relationships. We are at the dawn of a new era which, if handled correctly, will see the emergence true partnerships. We may need to adapt new working practices – how we all do and see things – to manage emotionally and physically in both our personal and business lives. One thing which has become very apparent to me during this experience, is how everyone has come together. The support and compassion shown within the industry has been amazing. I would like to say a big thank you to our customers, friends and colleagues for your support and wish you and your families a safe, healthy and positive time ahead. Please remember we are here for you.

SUGGESTIONS FROM TRES CHIC 1 Create a video of safety first practices for brides shopping in your store showing you and your staff wearing face-masks, using hand sanitizers and gloves, and practicing social distancing with your customers. Indicate that they can bring a close friend or relative with them to help them dress. Have a video ready for when shops open and place it on social media. 2 Show our video and images on your social media with sneakpeeks to engage brides and create interest in the 2021 collections. You don’t need to order styles – simply use our images and conduct ‘surveys’ on Instagram. 3 Skype or Zoom tips and tricks for a social distancing at weddings and ceremonies with small numbers and show how a bride will still look fabulous with a virtual congregation. Get the message over that love never stops because of a lock-down

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JUSTIN T I M E In just over a week, Justin Alexander is hosting a virtual trunk show of its Signature collection for brides-to-be. The company has got in there fast to support their retailers and engage brides

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he bridal powerhouse that is Justin Alexander will be showcasing its autumn/ winter 2020 gowns from their top line on May 22, live through the Justin Alexander Signature Facebook page. In addition to walking through the collection style by style and featuring videos of the product on models, the creative team will also be giving fit and style recommendations for different body types and tastes, sharing customisation options and answering questions from brides around the world. “We are able to do this because we have retail partners globally who are offering virtual consultations,” says CEO Justin Warshaw. “As we are 100% wholesale, our virtual trunk shows are

designed to drive traffic and business for our retailers. Naturally, the next step for brides is to connect with the stores one-on-one.” Key to this initiative is that whether brides are starting their gown search, looking for a second dress, wondering about timing and delivery, seeking alterations or guidance on product care, they are being directed to their local bridal boutique as their best resource. Given the range of services that stores are able to offer and the local restrictions that they are facing currently – which in the UK still remain uncertain – virtual consultations take all forms and sizes. “Shops are starting conversations with new customers, doing virtual

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fittings, adding to their in-store appointment bookings or even completing sales and supplying dresses through these virtual consultations,” explains Justin. As stores from Hong Kong to Houston to Hamburg prepare to reopen in May (or in our case in the UK a bit later), the virtual format may be here to stay. Stores and brides alike are cautious. Moving forward, many shops are restricting their appointment sizes for safety and continuing to engage their brides in virtual yet creative ways, whether having brides try on gown favourites for friends and family at a distance or looping in their bridal party from afar for a quick “I Said Yes to the Dress” celebration in store.


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A DV I C E F R O M Jeanette and Mark Stevens and the international Enzoani team, have been developing new strategies to maximise on the potential that will come to life when lockdown is lifted

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ever before have any of us faced a crisis on this scale, that tests your patience, courage, confidence and perseverance. No-one has the answers, knows the timescale or can really promise us everything will be ok. But what we CAN do is understand our industry, the impact and how we can work towards overcoming these mountainous challenges facing us. Every step we take now can help us to recover quicker, stronger and be a survivor. As an industry, we are in the very fortunate position:

• Weddings have been postponed (not cancelled) so whilst each bride will need to reschedule, the dilemma faced is more about logistics and timing. • Brides who would have been choosing their dress in March and April will still need to go dress shopping as soon as retail stores open. However, that means there are going to be A LOT of brides all searching at once! • Brides with a shorter lead time than originally planned may just have less of a window to ‘do the rounds of bridal shops’ and will be more decisive.

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Lockdown has created a scenario where brides-to-be have more time on their hands and social media is not only entertainment but also now their lifeline. There is a captive audience waiting to be engaged; both designers and retailers need to be creative and build on their engagement with those brides as much as they can right now. When bridal boutiques can throw their doors open again, we anticipate there will be a significant increase in brides desperate to find their dream dress. The question is which bridal store will they be trying to get an appointment with, and which designer is at the forefront of their mind when they start their search. As an example, during these unprecedented times Enzoani’s marketing activities have been escalated to engage with as many brides as possible. They may not be able to go into a store, but they can most definitely virtually browse for their dream dress. We are doing everything we can to ensure brides are ready to shop with our retailers when lockdown is lifted. Once that happens, we have plenty of stock prepared, ready to cope with the demands anticipated. What are you doing? Are you doing everything you can to engage with your audience? Is it time to think outside the box and maybe try something new? Is this lockdown time an opportunity to embrace technology and push the boundaries? This, in addition to brides needing fitting appointments rescheduled,


E N ZOA N I could create a huge logistical headache with too much to do in too little time. You don’t want to restrict potential new brides through your door, but you also need to accommodate all the rescheduled fittings. Ask yourself this: • Is now a perfect time to refresh your landing page on your website, or social media with key information to make sure you capture those brides? • How easily can they book an appointment? • Will you be extending opening hours/days to accommodate the demand when the doors open? Do you have an alternative location to do your fittings to free up time for more bridal appointments? • Should you start a waiting list for appointments that can be activated as soon as doors open? • You need to know why a bride chooses one store over another when they are making a purchase. Is it a connection, a feeling that they already know the sales consultant before actually meeting them? • With so many opportunities and so many different ways to engage with your brides, now that you have some unexpected ‘extra’ time, consider developing existing skills or trying something new.

But how can you choose your new collections with trade shows being cancelled during the summer and lockdown preventing one-on-one appointments? Every supplier is looking for ways to show you their new collections with the current restrictions in place. Agreed, it’s not the usual way, and maybe not always the best way, but current times are not normal. We all have to be more flexible and creative. Don’t worry. This may not be the selling season we’re used to but we’re adapting to give you as many options as possible. With virtual appointments, videos, live streaming, technology has come into its own over the past few weeks. Talk with your designers and find out what your

Now that you have some unexpected ‘extra’ time, consider developing existing skills or trying something new

options are, how can you view the new collections. It’s amazing how it soon becomes ‘normal’ and not scary. One train of thought is this: “I don’t want any new product this year, Buying time maybe I’ll wait to order at the end of With the annual launch of new collections, every supplier and retailer the season when lockdown is over, or even wait next year and keep my gets that burst of excitement and a freshness and energy that bubbles to costs down this year.” But brides are searching for those the surface. This year is no different to any other. Brides will still be expecting new collections, already asking when styles will be available in to see the new collections.

store and they are forward-booking appointments. Suppliers have already heavily invested in the designs, production, marketing: Enzoani is one that has already pre-ordered stock to offer reduced delivery times on new collections. All this investment plus social media engagement and marketing has been to support their retailers, and to help and support our industry so it continues and flourishes when this lockdown ends. Valued relationships For Enzoani, the relationship between supplier and retailer is a key priority. The support must work both ways – with understanding, honesty and shared harmony; challenges are easier faced together. Regular communication is vital,. Suppliers appreciate that closed doors have resulted in retailers losing income. Some retailers have asked for extended payment terms, or simply advised that they are not able to pay their bills. It is important to accept that suppliers are in that same position; they are a business just as their stockists are. That is why the government has offered financial support to help us get through this. Enzoani is taking the necessary steps and we advise retailers to do likewise. Sadly it is predicted that not every business will make it through this crisis and we urge everyone to plan for the future, and to take advantage of the support offered to give yourself the best chance. And thinking positively, we all need to be prepared for some VERY busy weeks in the near future!

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ON SAS S I HO L FO R D ’ S D RAW I N G B OA R D. . . Multi award-winning designer Sassi Holford, continues to innovate season after season. Owner of two own-name bridal salons, one in London’s Kensington and another in Taunton, Somerset, she understands better than most what retailers are having to deal with right now. We got a sneak preview of some of the features she is working on for 2021 Number of pieces in the new range? Our 2021 collection is called Spellbound and will feature 20 key styles. We’ll be following that with a mid-season capsule collection of another ten dresses. Special features? Expect to see statement sleeves and plenty of sparkle.

Fabrics and colours please? Blush, nudes, shimmer and yes, the return of lace!

Any special advice for retailers? Use this time to evaluate every part of your business and prepare yourself for a fresh, new start. We are having How are you reaching your stockists? a clear out, training staff and painting We are filming and photographing the our stores. collection ir order to launch it virtually to our stockists and we’ll also unveil it Best way to reach you on our website and the various social +44 (0)1823 256100 | martin@ media channels. sassiholford.com | sassiholford.com

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ADDING SHIMMER Laces with their own subtle sparkle have made their way into the new collection

TAILOR-MADE Clean but distinct lines turn a simple shape into a statement of chic M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 55


Make Mine a Morilee You know what to expect from this beautiful portfolio of brands – gorgeous dresses that are skilfully designed to cover all tastes, budgets and body shapes. We present a picture tour of the latest collections...

MORILEE

What Morilee is doing for your business • Staff are working on rotation in Morilee’s distribution centre to send out your dresses. If you want them to hold your delivery or send gowns to a home address get in touch with Claire Tween – clairet@morilee.com • Morilee is offering 60-day payment terms on new samples on delivery to give you extra time to pay. And there’s a 5% discount on invoices settled early. For account queries contact Beverley Jones – beverleyj@morilee.com • Knowing you’ll want up-to-the-minute material to share with your brides on your website and via social media, Morilee has resources in its Dropbox

Got a question? Talk to your sales rep: Steve Tomkins, National Sales Manager: +44 (0)7917 809086; Hannah Jenkins, Midlands and Ireland: +44 (0)7770 608432 Lisa Hudson, North: +44 (0)7786 247624 56 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 0


B LU

V O YA G E MADELINE GARDENER

J U L I E T TA

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Too True This much-loved brand is focusing on creating capsule collections, and the importance of close relationships with retailers, now more than ever.

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rue Bride is comprised of seven unique collections, each catering to a specific niche within the industry. True Curves creates the dresses plus-size brides want, Brighton Belle is a selection of retro-inspired tea lengths, True Bride is a diverse collection of gowns with designs for every body, and Nicki Flynn by True Bride is all about the decadent, glamorous feel. This season True Bride has created capsule collections to help ease some of the pressure on retailers. Sales packs are available to showcase the new styles, with all the information; including prices, colours, style notes, and more. Email info@truebride.co.uk to get in touch! Bridal silhouettes this season range from strapless shorties to slim styles with blouson sleeves; the bridesmaids collections feature their signature brand of fashion-forward designs and updated classics with a twist. They’ve also introduced new fabrics, including a silky liquid satin and luxurious velvet. As ever, there’s always someone at the end of the phone at True Bride, whether you have a query, concern, or just need someone to lend an ear. Their advice to retailers at this time? “Don’t give yourself a hard time. We are all adapting to the situation, and support is there if you need it. By working together, we will get through this.”

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Suzanne Neville

OUR PICK OF THE BEST SELLERS Recognised as one of the world’s leading designers, Suzanne Neville will always delight her brides with superbly flattering cuts and incredible detail. While the finishing touches in the new collection are being put in place, we took the opportunity to ask about the star numbers of the past and, importantly, what made them so in demand. Take a look at these trend-setters that have won hearts...

DELPHINE Simple but oh-so stylish with a contemporary fashion-forward neckline that makes a distinct style statement.

LEADING LADY A classic as only Suzanne can recreate, reminiscent of the gown Grace Kelly wore when she became a Princess. It rose to fame again before and after the Royal wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge.

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LUCIA Slimline and wonderfully flattering, this lace gown with a fitted bodice, squared-off neckline and delicate straps forming soft caps was a big hit, unsurprisingly.

VENUS This simple effortless silhouette is still a firm favourite in Suzanne’s collection, a look that will never go out of style.

ALICIA The organza skirt here falls in soft folds while the classic lace bodice is a style that suits all, and that is a vital ingredient that makes a gown become a best-seller.

SERRANO Proof that couture style is all about perfect lines. Here the plunging neckline and low-cut sides are under-stated but perfectly defined.

MANHATTAN This was Suzanne’s original best seller, with pleating across the fitted bodice cascading down in soft folds to add detail and structure to the hips. The gathered side panel makes its own statement.

MONET One of the secrets of an all-time winner is that it remains timeless, elegant and always unforgettable, a look that never goes out of fashion.

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A Designer Dozen “We understand how difficult it is right now, but it is VITAL to be in the very best position when this is all over. Look to your suppliers to commit to getting you through this. Ladybird and the Pronovias Group are offering a full package of help and support from extended credit terms and discounts to making sure you can confidently order and have new things ready and waiting when ‘normal’ returns; we have been offering a range of ways to view the collections to make

Ladybird, now part of the Pronovias empire, boasts no less than 12 labels within its portfolio and – wait for it – there’ll be another joining the line up shortly. Richard Lill, who heads up Ladybird in the UK has a message...

your selection. We can look forward to being together at Harrogate in September”. Want a list of the lines? There’s Ladybird Couture, Bohemian, Princess, Sensual, Royal, Transparent, Avant Garde, Sparkle, Pregnant, Accessories, and Ornaments and a total of 300 new designs. This is big beautiful business. Across the ranges expect to see sculptural simplicity and detailed focal points that demand attention. Nude, skin, coco and

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Champagne tones have been used to give a depth to the design highlights and new exquisite laces that feature in the collections. The Group has been working on live streaming, and digital appointments are available where you can enter and order from the virtual showroom. Call Richard for more information on +44 (0)7767 351 270 or +44 (0)1423 876 380 or email Richard.lill@ lionheartportfolio.com


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Get Ready For Gorgeous Working closely with their retailers across the country, Romantica of Devon has been there with support, advice and information from the very start. Now it is over to you to make your buying decisions from three stunning new collections

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he new Romantica, Pure Bridal and Jennifer Wren Bridal ranges are ready and waiting for you to view. You already know the quality make and superior design of these collections, so picking the pieces you know will sell well for you, and that you can promote via social media before your shop can re-open, is the way forward. The choice of styles takes in the popular – ballgowns, mermaids, fit and flares and A-lines – while your brides looking for tea-lengths will delight in what’s on offer.

Boss James Waddington has this message for retailers: “In these uncertain and worrying times it is important to keep communicating; with your team, current brides, new brides and wholesalers. Many brides have postponed their weddings and will turn to you for advice on what to do next; stay positive and try to be as helpful as possible while keeping yourself and brides safe. “As the situation evolves it is important to try to stay one step ahead if you can, be as organised as possible. There are also new brides, which is incredibly positive! Keep up

Romantica Features in Romantica to look out for are the illusion lace cold shoulder, lace side panels, sumptuous Champagne and blush hues, illusion bodices, botanical ditsy floral lace, illusion lace, high necklines, diamond keyhole backs, contrasting layered lace, ruffled tiered skirts, and fabulous bold lace appliqués.

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to date on your social media platforms to give these brides the opportunity to view your gowns while they are staying at home, the more posts they engage with the more excited they will be to visit your store when this is all over. We are all in this together and we will be with you through this, whatever you need and we will be there to guide you afterwards. Stay positive and stay safe.” Make contact and stay ahead of the game: +44 (0)1823 674412 enquiries@ romanticaofdevon.co.uk / romanticaofdevon.co.uk


Jennifer Wren In Jennifer Wren, special details include plunge necklines, detachable illusion lace tops that sits underneath a beautiful bodice for more coverage, exposed bodice boning, Grecian-inspired flowing tulle arm details, illusion trains.

Pure Pure Bridal is where you will find scalloped lace, bow details, illusion bodices, high illusion necklines, geometric details, lace sleeves with bell cuffs, dropped waists, and defined lace waists details.

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FREDA STYLE The talented design duo behind Freda Bennet, Christine Wilke and Jane Hancock are single-minded in their approach and have created a label that is cool, confident and elegantly crafted

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hen a brand new label is a finalist in the Emerging Brands of the Year category in the Bridal Buyer Awards, you know you are dealing with something special. Creators previously of the LouLou and Louise Bentley

collections, this double act of design is always ready for a new challenge and to set the trends. Their latest range is an example of their ability to innovate; there are 20 pieces, every one a winner. Key to the 2021 look are separates that mix and match – fluid crepe

IMAGE MAKERS The direction for this new label is set... and the style is innovative

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skirts, flowing palazzo trousers, gauzy blouses and silk velvet wrap jackets. Look out for deep V-necklines, figurehugging skirts, bell sleeves, cowl necks and wide frills – romance with urban styling. Fabrics that will impress you include encrusted beaded tulle, damask taffeta, and dotty pearl tulle along with miklado, satin crepe and a luscious soft velvet. For designer weekends planned, the girl have imagery, videos and moods boards. Here’s their message for today: “Make use of all social media; use it to promite existing styles and the pave the way for all things new. Keep your brides udated – virtual showcases are a way forward.” Reach them at +44 (0)1322 537741 hello@fredabennet.co.uk fredabennet. co.uk


PERFECT CUT Simple here is anything but, with well-defined lines a focal point

DRAPABILITY Soft ties and gentle folds add up to a look with is chic and understated

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SPARKLE Celeb dressing and shimmer and shine all the way

SILV E R S C REEN G LA M O U R AL L THE WAY Eliza Jane Howell is one of those labels that pulls in the crowds. Red carpet glamorous, with more than a nod at the iconic looks of Hollywood, this is WOWfactor stuff that dreams are made of

page was set up so stockists can see what’s awaiting them. Fitted chemises with overdresses; handbeaded twinsets with ruffled skirts, jumpsuits that will have you jumping for joy. Pearl, silver dollar and 24-carat are is what an adoring audience has come the colours. magine it. Sixty pieces of sheer to expect. The new collection – Studio Phone +44 (0)20 7436 2992, visit opulence and every single one outstanding. That’s a rarity, except 54 – was snapped in action just before elizajanehowell.com and get ready to be dazzled @elizajanehowell in Eliza Jane Howell’s case, when it lockdown and a special Instagram

I

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BRIDES W I L L A LWAYS WA NT A D REAM WE DDI N G AND TH AT D R EA M DRESS Kobus Dippenaar, the maestro behind South African label Anna Georgina, firmly believes that the effort retailers have made to communicate online paves the way in future success once businesses open up again

perfect balance – 15 stunning gowns, two tops and one fabulous ballgown skirt that rings the changes. “Ballgowns with slits and the option of different tops to create a surprise element is the direction I have taken for the new season,” he says.

may be different now, but weddings will continue.” The Anna Georgina line, launched in 2012, is today headquartered in Germany and South Africa. The 15-piece collection for 2012 is a

Here’s how to go on a journey of design discovery: Call +27 (0)21 423 7810; email info@annageorgina.co.za; visit annageorgina.co.za/about/ or get onto Instagram.com/annageorgina_ bridal/

“Things have changed drastically,” says Kobus, “but we will come out of this achieving more because we, too, have changed. We should not be afraid… we should be optimistic. A bride’s choice of dress or her budget

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Glamour since 1991 Poirier is specialized in bridal bodywear and accessories for the contemporary bride. By focusing only on using the best designs and materials our mission is to make our brides glamorous and beautiful. Enjoy the best bridal accessories on your journey of love.

The one-stop wedding shop including petticoats, veils, lingerie, head pieces, tiaras, jewellery and much, much more.

www.jupon.com

01753622922 gary@jupon.com @jupon.petticoats

@jupon_petticoats

@juponpetticoats


More Than A Century Of Style Wilvorst is an international menswear brand that sets the pace and style across the globe. We talked to Andy Roberts about the forthcoming trends

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lain pure wool flannel in five colours – denim blue, silver and brown lead in Wilworst’s popularity polls – and a new check that allows for mix and match options, is the key fabric going forward. While slim silhouettes continue, the ‘soft shoulder’ is a key trend, in which a shoulder pad that is half the thickness of the norm results in a more casual look. The latest waistcoats, Andy tells

us, offer options – some are double breasted and with lapels, others are three-, four- or five- button singlebreasted versions, and there are full cloth backs, too. What about traditional tails? The company believes this will be one of the new season’s big stories and alongside traditional cuts are highfashion shorter tails with pockets. For customers buying rather than renting for their big day, Wilvorst will

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make to order, with the groom choosing his fabric, lining, and buttons. Having his name along with the date of the wedding embroidered inside the jacket is a great, personal touch. If the Green Wedding range is new to you – do investigate it as increasingly grooms are looking for something different and in environmentally-sourced fabrics. In the range are pure wools, cotton mixes and linen mixes from Italian mills – all made from natural dyes – and buttons are fashioned from nuts. Each suit comes on a wooden hanger made from recycled wood pulp. Talk to Andy on +44 (0)117 932 7905, email wilvorst@ara.uk.com and visit wilworst.de to see the new collection


HIS WAY Mix and match options allow the groom to make his look individual

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TA L K TO E N ZOA NI Recently Enzoani released details of the most frequently asked questions that came from their stockists. Take a look and see what this international brand is doing to support retailers

With trade shows being cancelled, how can I see the new collection and place my order? Don’t worry, this may not be the selling season we’re used to, but we’re adapting to give you as many options as possible. What we’ve been working on is releasing collections early – 2021 samples are now available to order on the HUB. Virtual appointments, live catwalk events, new product videos and images are rolling out. Ultimately, the most important thing is to communicate with us so we may best support you! Contact your Account Executive today to discuss the options available to you. When will 2021 be delivered ? This depend on when you place your order, as standard delivery times apply. However, we have ordered advance stock of the 2021 collections which provides the opportunity for much shorter-than-normal delivery lead times – in fact as early as August

2020. This option is on a first-come, first-served basis.

situation is changing all the time. This is largely due to global government restrictions, but Enzoani is working on various scenarios to try to accommodate all requests. Contact your Customer Service department to discuss any urgent deliveries you need and we will do our best to help.

What is Enzoani doing behind the scenes to help our industry recover? During this unprecedented time, our marketing activities have been ramped up to engage with as many brides as possible, and we have plenty of stock ready to meet demands. So I can still contact Enzoani? Yes, each department is contactable What happens if I want to send in with staff working safely from home. brides’ re-orders? Are these still being processed and is the lead I’m concerned how I can afford time delayed? to pay for my brides’ dresses and Everything is ‘as normal’ when it samples due to the unexpected cash comes to submitting brides’ or sample flow crisis this pandemic has caused. orders. Each department – including We really do understand, and will be our factory – is working, and all doing everything to support and help, orders are submitted to production as but we need to stress that we are in normal. Lead times are not affected the same situation. Provided every by the crisis; thankfully our factories business takes the steps necessary to are now staffed back to capacity and keep the supply circle flowing, we will everything is back on schedule. get through this together. When can I get deliveries? Each region is different and the

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For more information visit enzoani. com/en/


SAY YES TO THE DRESS This is one that makes jawdroppingly gorgeous instore or window display

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CANADA’S CREAM OF THE CROP There are two great labels in one portfolio from North America that continue to innovate and excite season after season. Get to know Paloma Blanca and Mikaella

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aloma Blanca goes back – amazingly – to 1937, when it was launched out of Toronto as Blue Bird Dress. The thoroughlymodern 2021 collection, which is being heavily promoted to brides on the brand’s website and the key social media platforms that your customers are using to do their initial searches, features 16 elaborate

gowns – ballgowns, A-lines, and those always-flattering fit and flare numbers. We love the pant suits and the beaded laces and the real choice of fabrics – think lace, tulle, crepe and satin here. Sister label Mikaella Bridal, introduced in 2004, has all the glitter and glamour brides want – those who have had to postpone their big day will be going all out to make a

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dazzling statement. Check out Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest and Youtube for a bit of inspiration and visit palomablanca. com and mikaellabridal.com for more. The team is there to help retailers through this difficult period and ready to answer any questions. Email is the best route for a fast response – custserv@palomablanca. com will get you connected.


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TULSA

THE EXPERTS Answered key questions about ways to run a better then you are business

PRIMROSE

MILA

ACCOMPLIS HE D, AMBIT IOUS AND UTTE RLY DESIRABL E We asked Alan Hannah to talk us through the highlights of the new collection. Here’s how he describes it... Our new collection strikes out in a number of new exciting directions. Marguerite has been working on some really interesting voluminous sleeves that give a nod to the 80s but are also completely reinvented. We have all noticed that more and more brides are looking for dresses with eye

catching sleeves reflecting current catwalk trends. Sheer sleeves in chiffon and organza are so feminine and beautiful especially when they are adorned by amazing embroidery and beading like those used for Mila, above and Erika, far right.

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There is a more modern take on rouching using very soft and light fabrics: organza chiffon and georgette give a beautiful light touch to the modern ball gown. Whilst we always feature dresses with sharp clean lines and strong architecture, Marguerite has evolved this and made some beautiful pieces that are amazingly light and ethereal by using new embroidery and cut out motifs in silk and lace which are very dramatic when used with translucent fabrics like organza and chiffon. “Dresses with high slits and low Vs are a big feature in our new collection. They can create a very sexy catwalk silhouette but still have a presence and formality, which the occasion demands.


AZALEA ERIKA

A message from Alan and Marguerite Hope you are all well and looking forward to getting back to work. Some shops have told us that they plan to begin tentatively reopening from 1st June. We have decided that we will start pencilling appointments in at the showroom for everyone to come and see our lovely new collections, one boutique at a time, from the beginning of June. We will have a model if this is permitted at the time. Safety is our number one priority and we will review and change this strategy if we are advised by the government or if we feel it is inappropriate nearer the time. We will begin calling soon but if there is a particular day in the first half of June which suits you, do let us know asap. There is a collection preview at https://www. alanhannah.co.uk/collections/twentytwentyone/ Can’t wait to see it? Here are the contact details: +44 (0)20 8804 1444 / info@alanhannah.co.uk / alanhannah.co.uk And don’t forget to check out MiaMia and Rita Mae.

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A PERFECT PEDIGREE Incredible – but it is 40 years since Dublin-based brand Special Day made its mark with a range of fashionforward wedding dresses designed for brides seeking individuality. Take a look at what designer Joanne McFadden has planned for the season ahead...

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heck out Special Day’s website to see what’s in store – or to be more precise, what you can have in store! The new collections are there now and the choice is terrific.

Across the labels in the portfolio, there are very different personalities, which means you’ll find something for evey taste, need, budget and, importantly today, type of wedding. There are 18 new styles in the

GOING TO ALL LENGTHS From short and sweet, to super sleek, this label has so much to offer

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Beautiful Bride Plus collection, 40 in the main Special Day range, and 30 in the bridesmaid range, Diamond Collection, with a host of new colours. And ready to launch now is a new Special Day Prom Collection with more than 20 pieces. Watch out for lace boho dresses with flowing skirts, statement sleeves with intricate beadwork, polka dot tulles and embellished organza, along with the all-time favourites, chiffon, lace, satin a mikado in ivory and blush. Pop these contact details in your file – +353 1 9665882 | info@specialdayireland.com | specialday-ireland.com


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Different Ways Why settle for safe when you can go for sensational? So many brides are looking to make a wedding-day statement

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rian Chen Bridal says it is vital to spread the word to your brides of the newest collections and latest trends, using all the social media platforms you work with. And as we all know, despite lockdown those soon-to-be-weds are searching more than ever before to see what will be available when they can start proper planning and try on the latest looks. A-lines and ballgowns are the story from this Taiwan-based house but it is the two-in-one and three-in-one options that they feel will capture

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your customers’ imagination. The idea of multiple looks from the same dress has real appeal; add beading-based tulle, sparkle and nude tones to the equation and this leads to serious engagement... and happy brides. There are 22 pieces in the 2021 collection, which you can check out at brianchenbridal.com or on Instagram and Facebook. Want to know more? Email the team at sales1@ brianchenbridal.com


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DA N DO LOND O N M AK ES A STY L E STAT EMENT Christine Dando is a master of body-sculpting. Her gowns are extraordinarily beautiful with impeccable detail and a body-sculpting fit that is second to none

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he first Dando London Signature Collection was launched in 2016. The label quickly gained a huge and loyal following with both retailers and brides, to the delight of celebrated director of Design, Christine Dando. The 30-piece collection for 2021 features gowns named after exotic

The love of lace continues, with thoroughly modern detailing in the softest hues of ivory, sometimes with a subtle Champagne lining, while the sheen of ivory mikado reflects the light and fine tulle offers a fluidity and softness that is elevated by underlayers of sparkle. “Designers are promoting their 2021 collections now and your future customers are viewing them,” says Christine. “Retailers who have ordered their new collections will benefit hugely when their doors open up again. Many brides, having spent the enforced down time viewing websites and social media, will be ready to discover favourite collections for real.”

places and, as you expect from this design star, every piece is an individual work. Clean lines, subtle yet ornate beadwork and extravagant feature trains are integral to this label’s personality; stunning semi sheer halter necklines sit comfortably next to Bardot necklines with Christine sales@dandolondon.com / dandolondon.com Dando’s unique twist.

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THE EXPERTS Answered key questions about ways to run a better then you are business

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STAYING P OS I T I VE , LOOK ING GRE AT You could well have seen Elbeth Gillis at international shows (not so far this year, of course) where the emphasis is on top designer names. Hers is a collection that stands out, head and shoulders above others

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eadquartered in South Africa but stocked across the globe, Elbeth Gillis has a well-deserved reputation for delivering the best – highly individual and brilliantly curated collections that make any bride feel like a princess. Her signature look is one that combines clean lines with immaculate detailing and the possibility of restyled features – the addition of shimmering crystals perhaps, or statement bows that say it all when it comes to special effects. The 2021 Grace collection of 15 superb gowns comes in dupion silks and mikado silks awash with beautiful sequinned fabrics and dramatic lace elements. See it on elbethgillis.com

BAYLEE with pearl sleeves

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BAYLEE with bow back

CHARLOTTE with collar front

JORDAN

THE EXPERTS Answered key questions about ways to run a better then you are business

NICOLETTE

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D OW N TO D E TA I L When you are ready to start looking at new collections, make sure Casablanca Bridal is on your list of to-sees

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asablanca has found through its own social media activities that brides are searching for their dream dress and using ‘home time’ to do their research. What will they have discovered about the latest lines from this California specialist? Well, the Fall 2020 range, Better Together, launching on casablancabridal.com, offers 23 new gowns and four key silhouettes – fit and flare, ballgown, A-line and sheath – in mikado, satin, tulle, silk and lace. In the Beloved collection, the new line, called Last Dance, has a further 16 gowns. Expect to see special features throughout – different styles of removeable sleeves, long capes, tassels and intricate beadwork. And then, of course, there are the exceptional gowns structured for girls with curves – don’t miss them. UK agent, Michelle Blackburn will share more. Email her at michelle@ casablancabridal.eu MABEL

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THE EXPERTS Answered key questions about ways to run a better then you are business

OPAL CAPE

TAYLOR

VERA

TALIA

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HEADLINERS Tiaras are coming back in, while new combs and vines are wonderfully elaborate

The Whole Picture S

arah Bussey is single minded in her creative approach. In her Wild At Heart range there are 22 stunning silk dresses plus 17 capes, overlays and boleros, all differrent, all special, and all underpinning her design-driven signature. Key features include nipped-in waists with soft A-line skirts, figure-huggers with plunging V-necklines and clever darting in skirts to create flow.

Ivory & Co made its name in the accessories arena and then added a superb gown collection to its offering. Each year, the label raises the bar with evermore inventive designs that set the stage for the new season

It is silk all the way and in so many forms – jersey, georgette, crepe, chiffon and damask, with beautiful laces, sequinned overlays and beaded appliqués. The Ivory & Co accessories collection, a line with hundreds of pieces from classic tiaras that have seen a resurgence in recent years to the more informal hair vines and combs, is featuring floral themes and deconstructed patterns for 20/21. We

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especially love the hand-enamelling treatment on many pieces. Silver pearl, Champagne gold and a warm bronze gold are the colours that count and opaque opal-style crystals are working as the ‘something blue’ for many brides. Says Sarah: “Whilst this is a challenging time within the industry we have to be positive and know that couples whose plans have gone up in smoke will still want to get married.


We can look to times ahead when brides will have rearranged dates as well as the regular stream of new brides we would normally expect who will also be wedding buying. Be prepared is my best advice. Be sure to have enough planning in place when you can re-open and sales can be maximised. Be flexible for last-minute brides who have taken up new venue dates, and utilise current stock for sample sell offs for those customers who don’t have the luxury of time to wait for a dress to be made. Plan to freshen the designs you will offer in your store in the next buying cycles to make sure you are able to show brides dresses which are on trend and in demand with current practicalities.” Want to see the new Ivory & Co collections? Call +44 (0)2684 592030 or email info@ivoryandcobridal.co.uk / sales@ivoryandcotiaras.co.uk M A Y / J U N E 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 91


Doing It Differently Okay, so a groom can go for grey, or blue or black. Sculpted jackets and tight pants. Or he can opt for something completely different – classic couture menswear cuts in colours and textures that defy tradition and define trend. That’s what Marc Wallace is all about, as Dominic Bliss discovered

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arc Wallace is one of those wedding suit designers who likes to be unconventional. Not for him, traditional morning jackets or pinstripe trousers. “People don’t want to look the norm,” he says of his clients who tend to occupy the more adventurous end of the sartorial spectrum. Now 52 years old, with more than


22 years’ experience of designing exceedingly cool wedding suits, he remembers the early days of his career when establishment retailers rejected his more ostentatious designs.. Shock to the system “When I first started, Savile Row wouldn’t touch the type of suits I was making. They looked down on them. If you were getting married and you weren’t having a morning suit with a dove grey waistcoat, then it was ‘F off!’. It was all about pompous traditional outfits.” All the same, Marc was determined

to fill a gap in the market for grooms who eschewed classic morning suits and wanted instead to get hitched in threads with a touch of panache, colour and individuality. Nowadays that seems completely normal but, back in the 1990s when he started out, it was against the grain. That was a period when most grooms dressed conventionally. Originally from Canada, and now living in Bath, Marc learned his trade through a very loose apprenticeship with a women’s couturier in London’s Chelsea, called Hans Muir. “He didn’t really train me,” Marc remembers. “He showed me what to do and I’d just

have a go.” Then, in 1998, he started designing his own men’s suits, before opening a shop nearby in Fulham. Ten years later he opened a second shop in Bath. Marc’s star ascended rapidly in the 2000s thanks to a clutch of famous clients including the footballer Vinny Jones and an acquaintance with the film director Guy Ritchie. Soon Marc was seeing his suits adorning celebrities: Irish pop singer Ronan Keating, for example, the actors Martin Freeman and Geoff Bell, and the DJs Mark Ronson and Marvin Humes. Marc says that, during his career, he has sold “tens of thousands

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of suits”, around half of them destined for grooms about to walk up the aisle. Recently, though, Marc’s own marriage hit a speed bump. Now divorced, he says he’s determined to use the rupture as an excuse to kick-start his business again. He plans to inject his suit designs with new creativity, for example. “It’s a rebirth,” he says optimistically. “It’s almost like I want to wipe the past away and revisualise how I’m going to create and move forward. From a creative aspect, I need to work out what’s going to raise my soul.”

or they’re bridalwear shops with a men’s section tacked on.

Ready for change “Retail is tough,” Marc concedes, “and at no time more so than now, with all the uncertainty as a result of the virus. But up until then, in recent years we’ve seen online sales; cheap stuff shipped over from China; an abundance of people pushing prices down. Perhaps now, when we come out of the Covis 19 cloud, attitudes will be different.” He laments the way some men were ordering three suits online, trying them on for size Standing out at home, deciding they didn’t His latest designs suggest like them, and mailing them that soul is already on an back for a refund. upward curve. There are “Hopefully, that trend will be three-piece suits in electric bucked now.” he says. blue, in pale pink and soft The answer, he says, when purple check, even in green, shops re-open for business, is purple and red tartan. In twofor retailers to ensure they’re piece suits there is burnt orange selling products that are wool and mohair, and bright red distinctively different. “In the early worsted wool. In double-breasted days, people came to me because there is a pale lavender wool suit. what I did was not available anywhere piece of knitwear on top.” This idea of else. That’s why celebrities and His website describes the fabrics deconstruction, he says, allows men on offer: “Funky checks, tonal plains, footballers were my clients.” to dress more flexibly. “People used to classic worsted, summer linens, He suggests the shop environment buy four suits a year, but now they’ll luxury silks, dapper velvets, stylish needs to be distinctive, too, in order cottons.” The lining patterns that Marc now buy just one a year and mix it up.” to attract male customers in the first Marc is perhaps unusual in that he offers will put a smile on any bride’s place. face: toucans, hummingbirds, sharks, has experience both as a designer That so many retailers, while pineapples, zebras, flamingoes, working from home in recent months, musical staves, bicycles, butterflies, have planned décor and product What I did was not comic strips, skull and crossbones… revamps, is a good outcome. And, He also makes ties, waistcoats, shirts available elsewhere. That’s says Marc, “positive staff who know and pocket squares. what they’re talking about are vital,” why celebs and footballers Also on his ‘new way’ wish list is With so much variety on his own label, Marc struggles to pinpoint that wedding wear retailers plan in were my clients particular suit styles he believes groom’s section of the shop that is and a retailer. He still runs his shop in will become fashionable in the near suitably distanced from the bride’s Bath (on George Street, in the heart future. But one trend he is noticing is section. of the city), while his London outlet what he calls “the deconstruction of Without these marked differences, closed down in 2016. But he has plans he says, all that retailers can do is offer the suit”. to open a new shop in the capital in “A man might buy a navy wool low prices. And that cuts into profit the near future. suit in textured flannel,” he says by margins. All this means he knows full well way of example. “Yes, he can wear it “It’s all lovely,” he concludes, as how tough business can be for as a complete suit, but he can also he reiterates his plans to open a new menswear retailers on the high street; London shop. “But you’ve got to make wear the jacket with a pair of jeans, whether they’re exclusively menswear money.” if he wants; or the trousers with a

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LOVE IS IN THE AIR Steam doesn’t just care for fashion as it smooths creases and restores shape, it actually helps to kill bacteria and remove odours fast – without damaging soft fibres or delicate materials. So be gentle on fabrics, tough on germs, and love what you wear for longer with a Propress Steamer. Visit or new website www.propress.co.uk


The Value Of Vlogging We’ve all recognised the value of sharing information and images online, so now’s the time to ensure you produce videos of the highest quality. You need to start with the right equipment, says Chris Partridge

A

s if life in sales isn’t tough enough, the new world order of social distancing is forcing specialist retailers to become professional video studios in addition. Video is now an essential way of communicating with brides (and their mothers) and in a competitive area where personal service is paramount, only the bridal consultants who

available so far to only about three per cent of premises. If it is available in your area, you have to get it. The next best option is FTTC or Fibre to the Cabinet, ie the green cabinet down the street. The link to your computer is over the existing copper phone wire. Most places have FTTC – check on a comparison website such as broadbandchoices.com to get the best deal for you. The speed of your internet is also affected by the quality of your WiFi installation. If you have an extensive shop area with offices, it may be worth replacing the broadband supplier’s hub with a ‘mesh’ network such as offer the closest, slickest, and most Netgear’s Orbi or TPLink’s Deco. informative online video experience Mesh wifi uses small nodes that can will prosper. be distributed round the premises to To succeed with video, two elements are necessary. One is a vlog, provide uniform wifi coverage. The choice of video hardware is a stock of lively short videos giving mainly down to cost. Do you need a advice and guidance on all aspects proper camera or will a smartphone of planning a wedding, including do the job you need? showing off your stock. Many professional vloggers use The other thing you need is a slick a smartphone for its ease of use, videoconferencing setup so that built-in connectivity and light weight. brides can consult you or your sales The drawback is that when filming staff even if they can’t come into the yourself you must use the forwardshop personally. facing camera, which produces lower The good news is that it is quality images, but the resolution is possible to set up a good video usually perfectly adequate for indoor studio for not much money. All you conferences in bright light. really need is a decent broadband There are two smartphones service and a smartphone, plus a few that have ingenious gadgets that will systems for bringing transform your video conferencing You’ll suceed if you the main camera to bear: the Samsung service from the Galaxy A80 has its ghastly ‘laptop offer the slickest, triple main camera webcam up the slide out and rotate to nose’ experience most informative point forward, so you to a glossy can see the screen presentation that online experience and film yourself at could have been maximum resolution. Meanwhile, he made in a professional TV studio. The first step is to check you have Asus Zenfone 6 has its main camera the best possible broadband speeds. on a flap that swings round to point forwards, for the same reason. The ideal is a fibre optic connection Almost any camera capable of right to your computer. filming high definition 1080p movies The best broadband is Fibre to the will be great for video conferencing, Premises or FTTP, which provides but you need to choose one with a a fibre optic cable right to your viewfinder screen that folds out so computer. It is incredibly fast and you can see it from the front, to make surprisingly affordable, but sadly

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framing shots easier. Tablets make great videoconferencing devices because the big screen makes it easier to see the bride on the other end of the line. Laptops, however, are not good videoconferencing machines because the built-in camera tends to have low resolution and it also encourages you to lean forward in that characteristic hunch. If you have to use a laptop, get a proper webcam. The essential accessory for video conferencing is a tripod for the camera. Not only does it stabilise the camera, it brings it up to eye level so you will appear in a natural posture at the other end. You don’t need to invest in a highend carbon fibre tripod either. The amazing British-made Spiderpodium is a rubberised steel frame that can be bent into shape as required to provide a stable platform for a phone or tablet.

GALAXY A80

Or there’s the peculiar Joby Gorillapod, with its flexible arms that can hold a phone on a flat surface or hang it from a post. The Gorillapod also comes in a version with arms for the two other accessories you may need – a light and a microphone. The harsh lighting of an average shop will not do you any favours on screen, but a simple LED light does a lot to produce natural face tones. The Joby Beamo led light is a compact cube with a powerful battery-powered light with the right colour profile to flatter the skin. It has camera-style cold shoes on its sides so you can attach several together for more illumination. The final essential accessory is a proper microphone. Joby does one of these too – the Wavo mic. Designed by pro-audio specialists Rycote, the Wavo improves the sound quality of a smartphone or camera by orders of

magnitude. As with the Beamo light, it attaches to the tripod and to a camera or smartphone via a 3.5mm jack plug which means it is not compatible with several of the latest smartphones including iPhones. For them, you will need a mic with a lead that plugs into the recharging/ data transfer socket. Once you are kitted out, the next step is the one that will drive you nuts – getting your head around the many and varied video formats the brides will want to communicate with. The most popular will be FaceTime (for iPhone users only), Skype, WhatsApp, Zoom and Duo. They are all very simple to use but have their individual little quirks. Unfortunately, because the customer is always right you will have to fall in with their choice of video software.

ASUS ZENPHONE

GORILLAPOD

SPIDER PODIUM

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D D Y F ! w e e v n i l e s h i T e t i s b e w

Find your en dream dress th r track down yout nearest stockis


F I ND YOUR

DREAM DRESS Use our handy tool to search through 1000’s of dresses online for all the bridal party, then click to find your nearest stockist!

www.findyourdreamdress.co.uk


Back-To-Work Training When you are ready to re-open, recreating that allimportant team spirit among staff is as vital as reviewing the products you carry. Helena Cotter draws up a plan so that you start, and continue, from a position of strength at this strange time, there are two important and difficult hats you must wear. Firstly, being able to empathise with your team; cecondly, the ability to deal with your own stress, and problems. It’s important to keep your worries and feelings private, within reason, because your own apprehension can frighten the team. So, it will be advantageous to use this time to make a plan of action. Out with the old, in with the t certainly has been, and continues new. Look at this as an amazing opportunity to fine-tune your systems, to be, a challenging time for procedures and training in all aspects everyone. Including, of course, bridal retailers – and all who work of your business. As a team, list all your recognisable in our Industry. No-one knows what the short- to long-term prospects are achievements to date – what puts you on the map; your business’s for businesses, but everyone I have USPs. From the smallest to the spoken to over the past few weeks largest, everything counts. Use this simply cannot wait to get back to information as a starting point for normal trading. Here then are my tips for a back-to- returning to ‘normal’. work programme to reinvigorate and 2 Team motivation and goal setting motivate you and your hard-working team once you open the doors to your When you temporarily closed shop, your employees left their work issues fabulous premises again. behind as well. On returning to work, these will be uppermost in their 1 Change the focus minds. They will need reassurance At this unique time, instead of asking why, ask yourself how you can you get now that any issues are part of the back on track. Having been forced to bigger picture – the goals you are all working towards. become remote from your business Aside from the obvious, are there will of course mean you have to put more energy into starting again where any recent changes in your business that might have affected motivation? you left off. Taking a more constructive, positive u Collect information from your team about any fears, thoughts and approach to find out what had been concerns relating to these events. working prior to closure – what you Even if they appear trivial or simple, were doing well and right – will help treat them with respect and honesty. ensure you keep doing your best. As the business owner, particularly In this way, you make any potential

I

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problems manageable, kept in perspective, and dealt with in a timely manner. u Be available and approachable: keep your door open, because your team may need extra support at this time and for the foreseeable future. Allow them access to your time and be honest. Avoid promising something which you cannot fulfil. Talking to your team and gaining their input will bring everyone back together and help all to move forward on the same page. It is important to remember that in order for a team to feel motivated, they must feel motivated on an individual basis first. A good way to achieve this is to set up incentives and opportunities tailored to individuals – and then the team as a whole. How you choose to design and structure your business has a strong impact on performance. Your team will always follow your lead; they will only reach full potential if the business owner and/or manager is a good motivator. Consistently give effective appraisals throughout the year. Organise meetings to find out what each team member wants to get out of their jobs and your business in general. Let them think about and list personal work goals they’d like to achieve in the coming weeks and months. Encouraging them to do this will make their fresh start feel less like a duty, and more like a series of ambitious plans to work towards. Think about what really motivates your staff. Avoid assuming all people are motivated by the same thing; ie


money. Find out what really motivates each employee. A good way to do this is to learn about their own personal values. These often will be the bedrock to new ideas about how to maintain motivation and personal development. Motivating factors can be: u Status u Praise and acknowledgement u Healthy competition u Job security u Public recognition u Fear of failure u Perfectionism u Sales figures; results u Knowledge u And, of course, financial rewards It is crucial now your team feel valued and an important part of the business. During an enforced lockdown, some lucky people amongst us will have had this need satisfied by being among family or friends. People we choose to be with, within the restrictions of the current climate. In their working environment

long term goals you will reassure them that they have a valuable and important future role within your business. Have a soft, slow and gentle back3 Encouraging your team to-work couple of weeks. Give the Ask about their experiences during team time to find their groove again. lockdown, tell them how happy you are to see them again, and how much Be mindful that old habits can creep back in when returning to work. you value them, and their hard work. Things may have become a little Design a questionnaire to use in rusty which is normal. So it’s as well conjunction with your back-to-work to maintain on-going training in all meetings. This will give you the aspects of your business. opportunity to create a wonderful • Sales training open platform for brain storming, and • Product knowledge training enable everyone to move forward in a • Industry knowledge positive and constructive way. • Any competition Empower your team. Give them Organise a celebration when some autonomy and allow them to find their own solutions, as opposed to everything is back to normal. It will boost your team’s self-esteem, simply telling them what to do. They morale, confidence and future will work hard to find answers and success. And, crucially, help build push through. back up a tight knit team. 4 Going forward To find out more: For your team, knowing where they E: info@helenacotter.co.uk are going, and how you are going to Instagram: hccoaching help them – and your business get Twitter: @HCSalesTraining there, is vital. By planning ahead and LinkedIn: Helena Cotter helping them work towards short to this is all too easily neglected. So, take some time to talk to each of your team individually.

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“Okay. I am scared. And I can say that because others are too and we are realising there is no shame in feeling this way. For once we can’t say we wished we’d done this or that because nothing we could have done would have changed this. One can only hope and pray that soon we’ll have some sort of life and even if it is very different once we’re used to a new way, we will cope. This whole virus thing has given us strength as an industry.”

“Looking back through

“The past couple of months have been a real eye-opener for me, and given me serious food for thought about my suppliers. I have to say, most of them have surprised me with their willingness to listen to my problems and efforts to help me with cashflow problems. I will stay faithful to them always. A couple of others have done nothing but tell me I need to place orders now or they will have to look elsewhere. I told them they should. They will not be getting my business ongoing now. Their loss, I say.

the two previous issues of Wedding Trader – Jan/ IVORY & CO TIARAS

Feb and March/April, it makes you realise how fast change has happened. Just a matter of months ago we were weighing up which shows to attend, which collections to investigate, which hotel we would book, what budget we would set. Well who thinks of any of those things now? I just want a date – a confirmed, nomind-changing date – so I know when I can open shop and get started

...and finally What’s the word on the street? We’ve rounded up who’s been saying what, whether it’s about Wedding Trader or the industry in general

“I’d really like to know if there are any retailers out there who haven’t been working round the clock – with brides, with suppliers, with staff and most of all in getting to grips with social media. I’ve referred back to Gary Wilkins’ columns in Trader on more than one occasion. These recent events have sharpened my mind and now are strengthening my resolve to succeed, proof that there are silver linings to everything. And the fact that my partner has learnt how to cook is a real bonus!”

rebuilding my business. I have been in touch with many brides and helped them where I can; I think they have appreciated that contact and will think of me first when they are ready to shop.”

“Just a few months ago we were all talking Brexit and wondering what happens next. I haven’t heard the B-word mentioned since early March, other than in relation to Boris! But I tell you something, with what’s going on right now, and not knowing what the future holds, at least there is comfort in sharing our views and our worries. I have new friends because of this.”

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E LY S E E B R I D A L . C O M


F IND YOUR

DREAM DRESS Use our handy tool to search through 1000’s of dresses online for all the bridal party, then click to find your nearest stockist!

www.findyourdreamdress.co.uk

Th we e ne bs w ite FY is DD liv e!

Find your en dream dress th r track down yout nearest stockis


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