Wedding Trader - issue 23 by Love Our Wedding

Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

TELLING IT LIKE IT IS STRAIGHT-TALKING COMMENTARY FROM THE KEY PLAYERS

Special occasions DRESSING UP TO MAKE A REAL STYLE STATEMENT

ISSUE 23• SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER ’20

SHOWTIME WHAT TOMORROW WILL BRING IN THIS NEW AGE OF BRIDAL

PROU SUPPORDLY TIN BRITISH G BRIDALW RETAILE EAR RS

SOCIAL MEDIA GETTING YOUR INSTA MESSAGES TO PERFORM

ALLUREBRIDALS.COM

www.dandolondon.com

For details on becoming a Dando London stockist contact sales@dandolondon.com Headquarters: DP World Logistics Centre, Ground Floor, North Sea Crossing, Stanford le Hope, Essex. SS17 9ER (+44) 1420 23490 media@dandolondon.com

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WHAT ’ S WHE RE

09 N EWS Get all the up-to-date info

M O DECA Dick Van Zutphen discusses the road ahead

14 L AURA REVEALS How she coped with a disaster

J U ST IN AL E XAN D E R How they’ve dealt with the crisis

18 HA RROGATE Wendy Adams answers key questions

HE L E N LO R D We ask about her new dual role

21 B RO MLE Y BRID ES Find out about the Wonder Room...

B R IDAL CO U NCI L A new supportive membership from the US

24 EL L IE TALKS Trade shows and moving forward

26 SA RAH H AYWOOD A letter to parliament

28 SUE LOVE LL A letter to brides

30 JA MES WAD D INGTO N Talks supplier-retailer relationships

32 C HRISTINE DAND O How to maximise opportunities

36 MYRNA Make Instagram work for you

38 WI L LIAM D ICKS A letter to retailers

TO NY B R O M ILOW From an agent’s perspective

F I N D YO U R D R E A M D R ES S Discover the most viewed designs T EC H N O Digital handwriting? Yes please! FINANCE How to control cash flow LEG A L Brexit: Where do we stand? A N D F I N A LLY Your views, your news

C HIC T HR OWBAC K S Peta Hunt reveals her favourite shoots A LETTER FROM AMERICA Peter Grimes talks business in the US B R IDESTAL K Chatting about social media ACC ES S O R IES Must-have details O CCAS IO NWE A R Hotly-tipped bestsellers M E NSWE AR How a recession could affect fashion

ROMANTICA OF DEVON

MODECA

contents

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 5

BADGLEYMISCHKA.COM

CO NTACT US Editor Susi Rogol

Ed’s Letter

susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Menswear Editor

We are living in a world of constantly-changing opinion – not just from officialdom, but from within and surrounding our own world of bridal. It’s been encouraging to hear from shops that they are doing way better than they could have imagined even a month ago, with bulging appointment books, zero no-shows, an okay for charges, and a high rate of conversion, as brides are saying “yes to the dress” faster than we had become used to. And now, with slightly larger numbers allowed at ceremonies and a wide acceptance of health and well-being rules, we have good reason to be optimistic... although there are still tough times ahead in terms of spikes in the pandemic and the repeat lockdowns that could result. Brides-to-be seem to have adopted a well-balanced attitude, too, and despite the initial disappointment of attending try-on sessions without an entourage in tow, many are reporting that they felt less pressurised and better able to make decisions for themselves. Perhaps that’s why they are saying ”yes” earlier on in the process. The big decision immediately ahead of us, though, is that of the next round – or any round at all – of buying, with carefully-conceived virtual opportunities offering what to many is the perfect option to traditional trade shows and the way of the future. Buying into brands you know and trust and have a history with is satisfying and reassuring – being able to do that in your own time and own pace is a highlyattractive proposition. It is because of the many opinions that abound throughout bridal right now, that this issue of Wedding Trader has focused on commentary. We have asked retailers to address brides, suppliers to address stockists, agents to address customers, influencers to WEDDING address show organisers, and one particular wedding planner to address the government about what needs to be considered to ensure not SHOWTIME TELLING IT WHAT TOMORROW LIKE IT IS WILL BRING IN THIS STRAIGHT-TALKING just a healthy future NEW AGE OF BRIDAL COMMENTARY FROM THE KEY PLAYERS for business but the happiness of those couples waiting to tie the knot. This issue is PROU designed to get you SUPPORDLY TIN BRITISH G EDITOR BRIDALW thinking... RETAILE EAR RS SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND

Dominic Bliss dominic.bliss@btopenworld.com

Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com @WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader

weddingtradermag.com

Trader Trader WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

TEAM TALK Andy Allen Art Director “Seeing Peta Hunt’s favourites from thousands of shoots across the years is really inspirational.” (p60) Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding “It is amazing witnessing the emergence of a new buying style, not just for shops but for brides themselves.” (p70)

Special occasions DRESSING UP TO MAKE A REAL STYLE STATEMENT

WEDDING

ISSUE 23• SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER ’20

Wedding Trader magazine is an online magazine read by best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is the trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

MEANT TO BE MEDIA

SOCIAL MEDIA GETTING YOUR INSTA MESSAGES TO PERFORM

Cover image: Occasionwear goes ultra glam at Carla Ruiz

Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 7 Derbyshire Road, Manchester M40 1QN. Tel: 0161 681 1771 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com

Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish: F IND YOUR

LOV E OUR

DREAM DRESS

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 7

E LY S E E B R I D A L . C O M

TALKIN G POINT The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now

Curvy Collection by Eddy K Another house that recognises the value of virtual collections, Eddy K incorporates videos to show movement of a dress, and pictures of every detail. From the beautiful Curvy Collection comes style UR134; the off-the-shoulder line promises to be a hit of the season.

A BIGGER BUDGET FOR THE DRESS? We asked Queensmith Master Jewellers about the growing popularity of lab-grown diamonds – often referred to as cultivated diamonds or even man-made diamonds – aware that affordability was key. Carat-for-carat, lab-grown diamonds are significantly cheaper – like 30-40% less – than mined diamonds with prices ranging from £1,500 to over £100,000, depending

on weight, shape, clarity, cut and colour. Apart from the cost savings (which could mean a bigger budget available for the dream dress) the appeal of cultivated diamonds with lower carbon emissions associated with the process, and the guarantee of being conflict free, makes them a real option for consumers concerned about green issues.

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Fit for a princess

ST E A M I N G A LON G

When Princess Beatrice wore

“The iron age is over…” So says Tim Oliver of Propress whose newest babe is the Mini, something every household should have (there’s an opportunity for you to sell to your customers here). The portable Propress Mini is a natural and efficient way to care for fashion and fabrics around the home. Gentle on the most delicate materials, tough on germs and easy to use and maintain, it is a joy and will ensure that designer labels always look designer. The Mini has all the best features of the PRO series packed into a lightweight travel size hand steamer that will undoubtedly be a bride’s best friend (and makes a great gift for the maids, too). Available from October in three colours – antique pink, pastel blue and for the groom, a cool artic grey. Visit propressmini.com for more info.

the Queen’s Norman Hartnell dress, upcycling it for her intimate July Wedding, she sparkled lots of interest in sustainable wedding dresses. Sabina Motesam, who recently launched a new line of vegan, luxe and eco-friendly pieces under The Green Collection banner, has now expanded that collection by adding two of the much-loved pieces from its couture collection, Josephine

SADONI

and Violette. motasem.co.uk

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Anything but plain

ON THE BALL

When we started looking into the latest trends in occasionwear – see page 78 – it was the prints and colours that really stood out. We asked Michael Bristow of Michael’s Bridal Fabrics, for an insider’s view. “The most popular fabric we sell for special occasionwear is our Italian wool crepe, which we have run for some years and now have 18 stock colours and last season we added a second quality – a wool/Lycra stretch gaberdine. For the coming season, we will be showing a digitally-printed silk crepe de chine to match the most popular colours in the plain wools, which are duck egg blue, dusky rose, navy blue and misty green. And, if successful, more colours will be added to the prints.” You can see Michael’s collection at The Harrogate Bridal Show, 4-6 October and of course at Textile Forum, 1415 October.

No one knows more than Nicola Ball of Halo & Co about trends in luxury accessories. “2020 has seen strange times and the ripple effects have been felt far and wide but we have already witnessed a big increase in demand for luxury goods. As a society, we are moving away from throwaway fashion and are looking for quality, a British made heritage and an heirloom piece that can be kept and treasured,” she reports. A large statement necklace or bold earrings can bring a look bang up to date. According to Nicola forget less is more, and think bigger is better!

2021 DIARY DATES Real live shows are scheduled for next year and we will keep you posted in Trader, and online, as and when there are changes and additions. National Bridal Market 15-17 March, Chicago Rome Bridal Week 20-22 March 2021, Fiera di Roma London Bridal Fashion Week 21-23 March 2021, ExCel London White Gallery London 21-23 March 2021, ExCel London European Bridal Week 17-19 April 2021, Essen Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week 19-25 April, Barcelona Rome Fashion Week 5-7 June, 2021, Fiera di Roma S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 11

HIGH F I V E W I T H JAMES EL L I S Just as we were about to go to press,

stores take initiative and new

Regine and Barry announced that they

challenges head on to grow and

were retiring from Ellis Bridals leaving

adapt despite the challenges

James Ellis in the driving seat of the

we all faced. We have taken this

long-established bridalwear design

as an opportunity to listen to

house. Here are our fast-thinking five

our stockists and by investing in

Qs for James

the latest technology we have

1 2 3

worked hard to make their user

You’re taking over a house with a

experience with the brands

long, long history that has formed

seamless. An impactful change has been

the direction of the market over the decades. Congratulations. How does

a company restructure bringing

that feel?

in new team members across

I am so proud to be continuing

design, sales, customer service and marketing. Attracting this

this British family business into

4 5

amazing talent who have been so

its fourth generation. Some of my earliest memories are of looking at sketches, fabrics

supportive over this period is the most exciting part of

and dresses with my mum Regine, the brand’s design

the transition for me.

director. The company and labels have been in my blood and are so important to me, so it is an emotional time to

Shows… how do you see the future?

get to this stage.

Our new 2022 collection will be ready in March 2021 and, like the whole industry, we want to see if shows still hold

How long have you been involved in the fashion/bridal

an important place for brands and retailers. Covid-19 has

industry and in which sectors?

shown us all that so much can be done virtually, which is

I started my career at Alexander McQueen where I

an exciting change in the industry.

worked in the design studio, I then moved to other

We usually hold a private showroom event and road

luxury brands to gain more experience before joining

appointments and the feedback from our stores has

the family business ten years ago. From the day I arrived

been that this personal and calm experience is preferred

I made a point of getting involved with as many areas of

to a show.

the business as possible and I spent time visiting all our retailers around

What are your plans for the brands

the country, which was an invaluable

in the Ellis portfolio?

journey for me.

We are excited for the future of Ellis, Kelsey Rose and John Charles.

How difficult have recent months

We have new plans for all our lines

been and what have been your three

that we can’t wait to share with

key priorities in the current and

our stores! With the ever-evolving

challenging climate?

landscape of bridal we want to

This period, despite the obvious

push our brands into the future,

difficulties all businesses have felt,

communicating well with all our

has encouraged business owners to

stockists to ensure we are providing

be brave and make changes that they

high-quality aspirational product,

may have been considering before

exciting social media campaigns

Covid-19. We have loved seeing our

and seamless customer service.

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Oh Knickers! Irresistible undies from Jupon feature in the perfect body for brides. With Pure Love lace, the smooth microfibre body slip has a low, low back, deep cleavage front and detachable suspenders. This is a bridal must-have for a gown with a plunging back. jupon.com

RAINBOW CLUB “To safeguard the future of the brand, Rainbow Club is now part of a new group structure at Marsh Footwear Brands. The business is supported by the same team, with operational advantages gained from our new group structure that benefits all of our retail partners. The bridal community can be reassured that it is business as usual for Rainbow Club; we’re committed to providing stylish bridal and occasion footwear, and supporting our network of independent stockists through a challenging retail climate.”

DELICATE DETAILING Kelsey Rose White, from the Ellis Bridals collection, has introduced its 2021 collection. Jasmine, style 50371, in chiffon and layered lace ticks all the right boxes with its waist seam panelling and keyhole back. There’s a digital lookbook to share and you can arrange an appointment for a rep in visit your store. +44 (0)20 8888 8833 / ferne@studioellis.co.uk

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Not quite as I planned So there she was, looking forward to a little well-earned time out, but there was no Bank Holiday rest for Laura Daly

s we all know, the August Bank Holiday weekend is traditionally one of the busiest times for weddings. At Bellissima Weddings, once we’ve seen the last Bank Holiday bride out of the door, we generally like to do a bit of shop revamping. We’ve used the break variously to create new display areas, freshen-up the staff room, put up new signage, or do a spot of redecorating and remerchandising for the coming season. One August, I have to confess, I managed to forget to pack a bride’s veil in her travel box, and my husband ended up flying out to Cyprus to deliver the missing item personally (on his birthday, to boot!) rather than let down the bride. Since then, you can be sure that I always double-check everything before a break, including all emails and the many different routes through which messages tend to arrive. We’ve learned that it’s wise to be absolutely certain that the coast is clear before we start any messy jobs. Luckily, when last-minute problems

crop up nowadays, they have usually been caused by hairdressers, or drunk wedding guests, and can be resolved fairly easily with a baby wipe, a safety pin, or a hair clip. This year, we had the job of making good and painting the wall around a new doorway (more details on that subject to follow another time perhaps). My husband drew the short straw, so he went to work and I stayed at home, on the one hand to start thinking about my column for Wedding Trader and, on the other, to be with the dog, Dudley, a Golden Retriever of 15 months, who is very much still a puppy in all but size, and who is suddenly and quite categorically refusing to get in the car. Fearing that we’d get stuck in the shop all day, and that Dudley would have called his mates at the RSPCA by the time we got back, I instead had a sneaky sofa day: with nearly all the Bank Holiday weddings cancelled or postponed, we’d be mighty unlucky if any problem arose this year. So, you get the picture, Michael goes off to do some painting and I’m just about to start getting my

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thoughts together for this article. I’m comfortably ensconced and with my hair in a pineapple, no make-up, one cup of coffee, and one dog snuggled up on my feet, when my phone buzzes. I could see it was an incoming email, and I could see the title was ‘WEDDING DRESS HELP’ in upper case letters. Cue the familiar “argh” and complementary sinking feeling. The email, from the bride’s mum and complete with pictures, informed me that we’d sent out a dress with dirty buttons for tomorrow’s wedding. Whether it had left our premises in this condition, or had come a cropper at a later date, was a moot point but was also completely irrelevant at this time. The simple fact was, it needed sorting. Quickly. The dress, which was currently over an hour away from me, was going to be transported soon to another county, even further away. From the pictures, I could see there were indeed some grubby marks but nothing that a bit of careful sponging wouldn’t sort, so I took a deep breath and called the Mum who, to her credit, was extremely calm

and, on my instruction, tried to clean instead. I didn’t reveal the bit about the buttons but, sadly, to no avail and Dudley’s little adventure upstairs but now time was running out. just said that I was likely to be out With the thought that this was for quite some time and maybe he beginning to become something of a shouldn’t be left alone too long. major issue and knowing it had already I jumped into my car, got the sat-nav started to ruin the build-up to the big programmed, put the key in ignition day, I felt I had but one option: Get in and... nothing. Yes, a big fat nothing. My the car, go there myself, and sort it. car wouldn’t start! I’ve had it a year, and At that time, the bride and her Mum it’s never done that before. I am about were leaving home to go to the venue, the least technical person you can and had planned to take the gown as imagine, so I called Michael again and, well, but I asked if it could instead be taken there later in the day either My phone buzzed. It was by me or someone else; luckily they agreed that was possible. an incoming email and I could My plan was to drive to my shop, take the buttons off my sample see the title was WEDDING dress, then drive to their house DRESS HELP in upper case and swap the buttons over. Timeconsuming, but reasonably simple. letters. Cue the sinking feeling... It was arranged that the bride’s brother would be there to let me in. Without further ado, I rushed as he was still some distance away, he upstairs to grab my bag and keys. suggested I called out the AA. Until this very moment, the dog had I’ll be honest, I’d totally forgotten never been upstairs at our house – he we’d joined. I suppose, in retrospect, I was not allowed. But, seeing me dash should have downloaded the app on up there in such an unfamiliar and the day that we did but, no, of course no doubt comical way, he wasted no not, so I had that rigmarole to go time in sprinting up too and, indeed, through next. beat me to the first floor landing! He Eventually, I managed to get signed seemed very pleased with himself in and, after a fair amount of holding and ran from room to room, grinning on while being assured that my call at me. I spent what seemed like an was of the utmost importance to eternity coaxing him back down, while them, I eventually spoke to a human, the phrase ‘disappointed bride’ was and the poor soul had to listen to my constantly screaming in my mind. almost incoherent story about a dog, a Once I’d managed to assemble disappointed bride, dirty buttons and, myself, my bag, my keys and got oh, the small matter of the car letting the dog on the ground floor, I called me down. Michael to tell him that I was leaving. Hats off to the lovely lady, though, He was having a bit of a trauma of his for not laughing at me and promising own and had run out of paint, so was to send someone out within two half way to a distant DIY store, with hours because, in her words, It’s the the daunting prospect a Bank Holiday bride’s big day, isn’t it – as if I needed queue from hell at the checkout, when reminding – but TWO HOURS... eeeeek! I told him he needed to return home Yet again, I called Michael who was

dutifully on his way home, and pleaded with him go back to the shop again and collect our sample dress, along with some sewing stuff and all the cleaning fluids he could find. I figured if he did this, it would save me the time involved in a detour to Bellissima. Going back indoors to wait, I caught sight of myself in the hall mirror and realised I was still without make-up and sporting, to say the very least, an interesting hair-do. So, Dudley and I ventured upstairs again; one of us to make herself presentable and, the other, to run about like a raving lunatic. An hour passed and Michael and the AA mechanic turned up at almost exactly the same moment. I could have hugged them both, but Covid restrictions luckily saved the poor lady in the overalls, who swiftly set about her task and in no time diagnosed a flooded engine – resolved by a simple rev up. I think I may have seen Michael’s eyes roll in despair at yet another display of my absolute ineptitude to understand anything that plugs in or turns on but, quite honestly, I didn’t have the time to worry – I was off! Apart from travelling the last part of the journey with my phone sat-nav shouting directions at me from under the passenger seat after I’d hit one of the finest potholes in Essex, causing the phone and holder to fly away from the dash, the rest of the day went perfectly smoothly. I arrived in time, snipped off and replaced the bottom 12 buttons just to be on the safe side, called the bride and her Mum, got the brother to sign off the work and cruised my way home. So, there it is, all’s well that ends well. I had an unexpected Bank Holiday trip to Southend-on-Sea. I should be grateful. At least it wasn’t Cyprus!

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WILDERLYBRIDE.COM

THE QUESTION OF HARROGATE Currently, the Harrogate Bridal Show 2020 is due to open its doors 4-6 October at the Yorkshire Event Centre.We talked to Event maestro Wendy Adams about what we can expect

You have more contact with suppliers than most people, what feedback are you getting now, many months after the start of lockdown? It was very difficult for all the suppliers and there were many different situations. Some continued to trade and managed to do a fair bit of business, and all tried hard to work with their stockists and not put pressure on them to buy in such difficult circumstances. Of course most retailers were not able to place

sample orders in March so they are keen to get to Harrogate to see what’s new and to get something fresh into their boutiques. Was the decision to cancel the London show the result of research among potential exhibitors and retailers? The decision to cancel London Bridal Week and White Gallery was purely and simply for the safety of our customers and the show visitors. We

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were only days from lockdown and the virus had really taken hold in London. Harrogate – will the show format be the same as always? No, the Harrogate Bridal Show won’t look the same – it’s a new venue for a start! But we will make it a great experience as always – the venue is set amongst some fabulous Yorkshire countryside and yet only a few minutes’ drive from the hotels and restaurants of central Harrogate. We will also be

ensuring it’s easy to get there with lots of buses to ferry both exhibitors and visitors to and from the town and the show. Because of the later date and the current difficulties with travelling, some brands have decided not to show but we still have a great selection with nearly 200 joining us, including some great new labels. What health and safety regs will you be following? Will there be more space between stands, for example? And only one customer on a stand at a time? Things will be a little different, like they are at the shops, so face masks and distancing rules will apply. There will be hand sanitising stations and a oneway system but, as show organisers, we are very used to doing risk assessments to keep everyone safe, and that priority remains the same. The aisles will be wider and there is lots of outside space so you can take a break and enjoy the view. How will you monitor adherence to safety guidelines – will the halls be ‘patrolled’? The venue staff will work with us to ensure the safety of everyone.

Catwalk shows – always a big pull – are they on the agenda? Unfortunately, due to space restriction in the new venue, we are unable to have any catwalk shows.

although we are expecting to be about 35% down overall, as we have less brands showing, the ratio of shops to exhibitors could in fact end up higher than in previous years. Still, with six weeks to go and with schools going back, things will start to look more normal and that will help to get the footfall up.

Masks – a must. And will you provide them to visitors who come without? Face masks are now The Yorkshire Event Centre Going from past mandatory is just a ten-minute drive experience, do whilst pre-reg figures give walking away. Shuttle bases will be an accurate picture around but these can provided to take visitors from of end attendance rates? be removed their hotels Yes, unlike a lot of when in other trade shows either of the HBS attendance figures have the two cafés or the Champagne Bar. Likewise outside where there is plenty always shown that at least 80% of preregistered visitors attend the show. of seating on the terrace. I think most people will be bringing their own mask What percentage of visitors do you but we will have plenty to give out estimate will be from overseas? should anyone come without. This year the show will be have mainly How many visitors do you guestimate UK brands as there are still many travel complications to the UK. But we have will be there – is pre-reg looking had shops from some of the nongood as an indicator? quarantine government list of countries Registration opened in early July and surprisingly the figures have surpassed contact us to check the show is going ahead so hopefully we will see a few our expectations. We are only 39 from overseas. shops behind this time last year, so S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 19

Will there be models on the stands? Models are allowed on stands if that’s the preferred way exhibitors want to show off their dresses. However, many are considering whether or not to have models this year, as it adds to the number of people on their stands and most would rather have an extra two shops than two models! What features have been built into this edition that make it special? Harrogate needs to be an enjoyable experience and it wouldn’t be the same without the ever-popular Champagne Bar where buyers can catch up and relax with a glass of bubbly; this year it will be table service only but open most of the day. The Bridal Retail Success Academy will be alongside the Bridal Buyer stand where you can check your subscription and make an appointment with industry experts to help with tips and advice on growing your business. This is always as in-demand feature.

Have many brands that didn’t have the opportunity to show at London, booked for Harrogate? We have some great new brands showing that didn’t get the chance to launch at London Bridal Fashion Week, and of course many of our regular key labels like Mori Lee, Justin Alexander, Mark Lesley, Eternity, Kenneth Winston, Ladybird and Rachel Allan..

And what about the Awards – a Harrogate tradition. This year’s Awards programme is based around Covid-19 and the many challenges that have resulted. We have looked to support innovation, care and support to the industry and the community as the core categories.

Do you see the show moving from its traditional home while the Nightingale takes over the Convention Centre, as a Given that Harrogate is the home problem? of bridal after all, has there been discussion about dropping London in Not at all. The Yorkshire Event Centre, future and returning to two Harrogate home to the famous Yorkshire Show, is just a ten-minute drive away. A shuttle shows a year – or even just a single bus service will take visitors from their annual event? hotels to the centre and back. And Not at all. This would not work for the there is parking for thousands of cars. It majority of our exhibitors who have is a superb, purpose-built venue and two collections a year. London has I know we will be in excellent hands become an important event and a lot more International than Harrogate and and with a great backdrop for the exhibition. with the add-on of White Gallery, the exclusive designer section of the show, For full and regular updates, visit it brings something very different to theharrogatebridalshow.co.uk our portfolio.

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A Wonder- ful World During lockdown, Becky Griggs of Bromley Brides put together a brilliant plan that entailed creating a ‘wonder room’ for her brides. She launched the concept once boutiques were able to open again, recruiting none other than design supremo and TV star David Emanuel at the opening... Tell us about ‘The Wonder Room’ project at Bromley Brides? David: I think The Wonder Room is an interesting concept to encourage brides and their entourage to use the room and celebrate the moment of choosing the gown or indeed celebrate the final fitting. It was a lot of fun and a big success.

Becky: The Wonder Room is inspired by Alice in Wonderland and has been designed to create a unique experience for brides-to-be in search of their perfect wedding dress. We designed it essentially for brides to feel special and to provide an unforgettable moment of saying Yes To The Dress, whilst including their

nearest and dearest. The launch event provided an exclusive preview of this personalised service, which we hope brides will enjoy! Even before the current pandemic, the world of weddings was changing continuously. What do you see as the biggest changes since, say, the

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wedding of Charles and Diana? In style of occasion, style of dress, style of spend etc? David: Weddings are always changing. Yes, Charles and Diana’s wedding had a huge impact on the culture but there have been many more influences since then. Becky: When the Royals get married, there are certainly trends in the style of dresses that inspire our brides, for example after Kate and William’s wedding, the trend was lace wedding dresses and after Meghan and Harry’s wedding, the preferred style of dress was simplistic and elegant. It has been interesting to see the rise of the off-the-shoulder Bardot-style after Princess Eugenie’s recent wedding. In terms of style of occasion and style of spend, it really depends. Some people are still going ahead with smaller weddings and some people are postponing the whole

and again for a party to celebrate when they are all able to be together. Becky: Most brides-to-be are adapting their plans to fit within the government guidelines, whether And today – driven by circumstances holding two weddings, which includes an intimate affair and party later, – how will the style of weddings or postponing their plans to marry change? For example, do you abroad and changing locations to see couples settling for a small, somewhere in the UK. intimate function and then, when it Bromley Brides prides itself in is allowable, splashing out with a big being flexible in adapting to the ‘second’ wedding party? David: Due to the limitations given the bride’s plans, regardless. current pandemic, weddings have to Do you think that gown budgets will be a smaller affair. Perhaps this is a be cut going forward? blessing for the bride and groom as David: No. If anything, given a smaller they can strike ‘Auntie Enid’ off the party there will be more money for guest list and just invite their closest circle of friends. This makes it a more the gown. Usually, if the bride-to-be intimate affair and leaves more money falls in love with a particular gown, the to be spent on the gown, should they money will be found. Becky: I agree with David. If there are wish. two occasions, there is an opportunity The bride could, of course, wear her gown twice. Once for the wedding for two dresses, one for the intimate thing. We have such a diverse range of customers, so it really differs from bride to bride.

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occasion and one for the party. Tell us about the gowns that you believe have set the trends across the past 20 years – in silhouette, colour, embellishments etc – and the landmark dresses that have led the way. David: Brides generally are inspired by seeing royal brides. This was very true with the influence of Diana’s now iconic gown. Other styles have overtaken through the years but there is a limit to style and silhouette that are available to brides. Becky: This season, and I said, everyone is loving the Bardot off-theshoulder style. Satin styles have also come back, and the more simplistic and plain coloured dresses are leading the way. For instance, the blush undertones, sand, ivory, nude – muted dresses with a colour – which we have seen from Hayley Paige. In addition, the Boho vibe – nude lining with ivory lace over the top – is a suitable style for a beach or barn wedding for a more bohemian feel. What celebrity/royalty dress has made the biggest impression on you over recent decades? If you could dress anyone – who would you choose? David: Queen Victoria was of course the greatest influencer of wedding gowns having been the first to wear white. This tradition has followed through the ages. As for today both Charlize Theron and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley would make stunning brides who I would adore to dress. Becky: At Bromley Brides, we are always looking at the celebrity wedding dress choices and how these influence the dress designs that follow suit. Meghan Markle was a huge influence with her fitted Givenchy dress and the styles that followed, so certainly there is always a strong influence from The Royal Family. Say Yes to the Dress – fact or fiction? What did you learn from the

programme, and the brides-to-be who took part? David: Fact. The show is very real. I try to give helpful advice to each bride and guide her to her ultimate choice. What I’ve learnt is that many brides have a huge lack of confidence and are often swayed by the comments of their entourage. The bigger the entourage the more opinions and the more confused a bride gets. If I can guide a bride without the entourage comments, we find the right gown. Becky: In our experience, there are both pros and cons to having an entourage present. Sometimes brides can feel confused with too many opinions. However, if they have a nice entourage it can make the bride feel good to have friends and family around them when she says Yes To The Dress! The role of our stylists at Bromley Brides is to guide the bride to choose the dress that suits her needs and instil confidence in her final decision. Whilst there will be many opinions, we are there to listen and be objective when it comes to styling and find the dress that is just perfect.

Inspired thinking “We wanted to create a beautifully-themed room inspired by Alice in Wonderland which would capture the imagination of our brides-to-be. Whether trying on a gown for the first time or returning for the nip and tuck alterations, we encourage the ladies to celebrate the occasion with friends and loved ones,” says Becky Griggs. The exclusive Wonder Room space can be hired out or booked for groups via appointment. The Ultimate VIB experience offers one-on-one service, including preferred music, a prosecco cocktail of choice, and the Alice in Wonderland Sweet Treat box for up to eight people. Guests can choose from an array of Curious Cocktails, including A Glass of Hearts, The Sour Queen and a Tumble Down The Rabbit Hole. Bromley Brides are also launching a unique new service in the form of “Miss to Mrs Bridal Coaching”, offering fun and informative wedding coaching sessions to guide brides-to-be through the wedding planning process. These intimate group coaching sessions will bring brides together to share ideas, find inspiration, and gain guidance on navigating their way to their big day. All weekly sessions will take place in The Wonder Room with a complimentary glass of wine.

Grooms – what is the current attitude to men’s formalwear and weddingwear? David: Ultimately grooms should be classic. I certainly don’t like tightfitting blue suits and brown shoes! Becky: We think grooms should be classic in their suit choice and recommend matching their ties and cravats with the bridesmaids’ dresses, so it fits into the overall colour scheme and chosen flowers. Our alterations team can actually personalise groom accessories and create them from the same coloured fabric, which adds a Becky: Look for the shape that suits unique design element to the overall your figure. Stick to your budget look and feel of the wedding. and match the dress style with your Three key pieces of advice for brides venue. For example, a castle or manor house setting may allow for a princess setting out of the search for their fairytale dress. Alternatively, a beach dream dress please. or a barn wedding is the perfect David: Be objective. Keep an open environment for a slinky, boho vibe mind and trust and take the advice and a more lightweight bohemianand your bridal consultant as they style dress. generally know what will work.

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TRA DE S HOWS

What is their future? Ellie Sanderson believes that without analysis of what current trade shows fail to offer and a considered approach to what is needed for a healthy tomorrow, the UK industry will be left trailing behind with suppliers and colleagues; they are a place of self-development and learning; they can be totally motivational and a joy to visit. I have attended and exhibited at many trade shows over my career including the Ideal Home, Pure, British Invention Show, and not forgetting the National Wedding Show. All of these shows have seen dramatic decreases in visitor numbers as the consumer finds new ways to connect online and gets their buying fix elsewhere. It truly breaks my heart. The UK bridal trade show has been fairly dire and uninspiring over the past few years. The lack of investment his year saw trade in new technology has not futureshows across the world proofed it one bit. To keep churning reschedule, postpone out the same old routine means or even be scrapped visitor numbers are dwindling, and altogether – I am talking the excitement has died. Stick on top about trade shows that sell anything and everything from passenger jets to of that the Covid-19 challenges and it spells disaster. What strikes me as Christmas goods and that, of course, sad though, is that the future of trade includes wedding dresses. The shows should be enticing but totally postponements and cancellations different to what is being served up at have forced us all to step back, the moment in our trade. assess, and operate differently when Post Covid-19 lockdown, exhibitors it comes to exhibiting or buying. across all industries have been forced The big question now is, has to think differently and seek new Covid-19 finally finished off our methods to engage their customer. trade shows? Well, I actually hope They have been forced to embrace not, because personally I enjoy an new technologies and develop new innovative trade show. They are a working methods. time for face-to-face connection

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The opportunities are actually very exciting... the future is always about change and the challenges that inspire and motivate. I would personally love to develop a model that encompasses all that is needed to guarantee the future success of our trade shows. (That’s not a shameless plea for a job!). The old days of crammed halls full of eager buyers are not how we are able to operate any more, nor is it how we want to operate. We are so much more sophisticated than that now and the falling numbers in attendance at our UK bridal shows speak for themselves. I started buying in 2008 and I can honestly say that the technological changes to the UK events have been negligible. Those who have had businesses for that length of time will, like me, have seen massive changes on the high street. Changes around how we interact with the consumer, how we develop our social networks, client engagement, client care, mean that we have had to move with the times... or be left behind. As a retailer who visits the UK show year in and year out, I am concerned that it does not appear to have moved with the times. The format so far on the website appears to be the same. The invite to register the same as

always, the floor plan not released yet and no sign of new and innovative ways to operate or engage. Sadly I won’t be attending this year as I have done all my buying. I have virtually bought collections from my current labels and a new label. ZOOM, videos and FaceTime have facilitated it all. So what is needed? Virtual events are the new normal and they can be money generators for the exhibitors, too. Virtual events have a different business model entirely. As a visitor you could book a real time appointment, register and engage virtually. As an exhibitor you can showcase 3D stands, product demonstrations and engage with customers, all on one platform as you create your own virtual world. What this year has provided us with is an opportunity to regenerate and innovate, change the rules and the format. The use of virtual reality and how to use it to be interactive at a show is crucial. Creating personalised itineraries that sync with each stand when you visit, and interactive displays are vital, too, and are proven to increase customer engagement and therefore interest in the product being showcased. Let me walk you though a typical experience then show you how it could be... • Last year I went to Harrogate to look at a new label; I was greeted on the stand by the sales representative. • I asked if I could look at the label but the priority was scanning me in! Sound familiar? • I then asked if I could potentially buy the label and I waited ten minutes for someone to find a map to check where my shops were in relation to other stockists. • I persevered and asked to see the top five sellers from last year. They couldn’t find them all as someone else was looking at three of them. I had to wait, as there was no imagery

available. • Eventually I gave up and left as I was totally fed up and unimpressed.

the Gifting shows In Germany. So it already exists. Another area to develop is:

What is possible – same scenario but interactive connection… • I arrive at a stand and technology recognises me from the chip on my badge. The welcome screen says, “welcome Ellie Sanderson, good news, your nearest competitor is 50 miles away – why not book in to see one of our team and talk about the opportunity.” • I then book an appointment slot to come back – all digital, all on a screen that syncs with an App. On my phone. (that reminds me when to return and how to get there) • I come back and I am shown a digital presentation about the business and images of top sellers and then see the fashion show. • Having the best interactive technology promotes your brand and shows you as innovative, it also raises the bar and makes you as a brand stand out above all others.

Personalisation All the data and information gathered means better conversion rates at the next show, more data-driven marketing, and a trade show that is connected with data, ensuring that we buyers are interested in attending. The use of data based on our shopping movements and activity at the show will be an immense step forward and help the exhibitors connect with us intelligently. This is so much smarter than what we have at the moment. The opportunities are immense, and inspiring.

Many other trade shows already have this facility. And there’s room for further development: Data gathering How amazing would it be to have a mobile app linking all key information and allowing you to register on arrival instead of a queue? No scanning, no badge printing or waiting in line! No carrying loads of brochures instead everything is on your App. Even GPS to show you where you are, and how to get where you are going and how long it will take you. Data gathering via an App allows the buyer to engage all the way throughout the exhibition, rate various parts of the exhibit in real time for current or future development, giving real time feedback during the show to keep the exhibitors connected. It also helps the host gather information on how people shop the show. This kind of technology is used in

So near but so far? The UK trade show is weeks away. Let’s hope that during Lockdown the organisers have really considered what the buyers in the UK want. I know that we are seen as a cottage industry but to be left behind when other industries and events like the Gift Show are leading the way is a tragedy. I also want it noted that this is written with passion and from the heart, I truly love our industry. I totally believe we can be so much more than a cottage industry, I know that we have a huge range of brilliant businesses and designers and manufacturers who can all lead this change. I totally want us to lead and not follow. Thank you for reading and see you next time.

Ellie x

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A L ETTER TO BO RIS We asked Sarah Haywood to spell out the messages that should be delivered to government on behalf of the bridal industry Dear Prime Minister I am writing to you as the owner of a business in the paralysed wedding industry, an industry which in an average year, is worth as much as £14.7 billion to the economy, making it 50% bigger than live sports events and nearly treble the size of live arts events. But we are prohibited from working in any recognisable form, and face the loss of almost an entire season, with winter fast approaching. Our sector has developed to outrank the aforementioned industries without requiring the assistance of grants and the public purse. And we do not need investment in costly infrastructure. We simply and urgently need a bridge to the postpandemic ‘other side’. Why should we be singled out for special consideration? Well, our customers have shown remarkable loyalty and goodwill towards the thousands of businesses directly involved in their wedding celebrations. Most have left their deposits with us in the hope of rearranging their celebrations to a future date. This means that unlike other sectors, our business has largely been deferred and not lost. But with no road-map, and uncertainty about the timing of the relaxation of the rules, couples’ attitudes are hardening. Many have been forced to postpone their celebrations more than once. They need more reassurance than they did six months ago as they see many businesses struggling and they worry about their deposits. And now the newly-engaged are hesitant to ignite their wedding planning for the same reason. We potentially have a bumper 2021/22 ahead, but we need to survive until that time over our leaner winter and spring months: even the most robust business will struggle with an entire season’s revenue all but lost. Our wonderfully diverse sector is made up of thousands of small and micro businesses in every corner of the UK – the vast majority run by an enormous silent army of talented women who collectively drive the sector from their kitchen table, not the board room table. As well as these dedicated wedding businesses, we overlap hospitality, travel and tourism, retail, fashion, and beauty. It takes on average 250,000 people every week in the summer months working on the wedding day itself, and at least another 150,000 support staff behind the scenes. The disaggregated nature of our industry is one of its great strengths – making it an agile and efficient engine

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for recovery in every local economy and community across the country. I and my colleagues appreciate that safety in these extraordinary times is paramount. We are realistic and know further tough times lie ahead. But we have customers, and their confidence needs to be restored and we – and they – need to move forward. The 30-person wedding is a lifeline for those couples who simply cannot wait any longer to get married, but for the vast majority of businesses it is not commercially viable, and the restrictions prohibit many more from working at all. We are a sector where size is no barrier to success for every kind of business. My own planning consultancy was started on the landing of my home and it grew to be a multi-million-pound international brand. But I have had to take some tough and heartbreaking decisions over the summer and the business is now as lean as it can be. I crucially need to retain the expertise within the small team that remains – a team it has taken me almost two decades to build and is the envy of my competitors across the world. If we as a sector can retain our teams and existing customers until weddings are allowed to proceed as normal again, we will bounce back and continue to tick along unaided, contributing significantly to the recovery. Our industry is a world-leader, and the business is still here if you act quickly – definitely making ours an industry worth investing in in the short term, and a sure fire bet for future returns. Wishing you and your fiancée a happy wedding day of your own. Yours sincerely,

K E Y FA C T S • There are 278,599 weddings per year in the UK. • Of the total £14.7bn of direct spend on weddings: - £9.4bn is spent on the day itself - £3.2bn is spent on retail - £2.1bn is spent on travel, tourism and prewedding events • The value of indirect spends (accountants, printers, back office workers, etc) is unknown • Approximately 250,000 people depend on work related to delivering the day itself, with an estimated 150,000 more in support functions – a total of 400,000 involved in weddings. • For every couple who attends a wedding as guest, depending upon the size of the wedding between one and four people are involved in working to deliver the day itself, earning less

Sarah Haywood is the founder of Sarah Haywood Weddings & Celebrations, an international wedding and party planning consultancy based in London’s

Notting Hill. Sarah is an award-winning business woman, top-selling bridal author, speaker, and host of UKTV’s ‘The Wedding Fixer’.

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A L E T T E R TO A BR I D E TO B E We asked Sue Lovell of Susan Nicholas Opulent Bride to pen an open letter to brides looking to find their dream retailer

MORILEE

Dear Bride-to-be, How are your wedding plans going? Are you managing to stay positive and enjoy the build up to your big day? Have you thought of your play list, listened to the songs that you both enjoy, chosen the song for your first dance? Any newlywed will tell you, planning a wedding can be a little bit stressful at the best of times, so adding a global pandemic and a recession into the equation, it’s understandable if you feel a little bit overwhelmed. It really is okay to feel deflated in the current Covid-19 climate, and that’s why, now more than ever, you need to turn to people who can help and guide you. You need to be in safe and supportive hands. Whilst we all hope that Covid-19 will move along quickly, we have to be prepared for it to be an unwelcome reality for another year or so yet, in all aspects of our lives, and that includes wedding preparations. Think of the pandemic as an unreliable relative that you don’t want to invite to your wedding. Hoping they won’t turn up isn’t enough, you have to be prepared in case they do! Within the bridal industry, we understand that this is your time to prepare, create and enjoy planning all the special touches that will make your day one to remember. You deserve to get excited, to have the same wonderful experiences that brides have had in pre-pandemic times. You may have to face some challenges, but we are all learning to adapt and roll with the punches that the Coronorvirus has delivered. Covid-19 will not stop us. It may throw up a few issues but, ultimately, dates may move, venues may change, but the prospect of marrying the person you want by your side through richness and health won’t falter. With the right mindset, the right people helping you, you will soon be holding hands with your love, making vows and exchanging rings. This is your time to celebrate the life and love you have for each other, and that is really exciting. So whilst we cannot ignore the current situation, and we have to be mindful of keeping everyone safe and follow the government guidelines, let’s take the focus away from the virus and put it back where it belongs: let’s focus on your wedding. In recent months, we in bridal retail have had a lot of time to prepare for your big day. This has been the first summer in living memory where weddings have

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been put on hold, and we have actually had time to think! We have shed a few tears ourselves, we have felt the devastation of couples forced to postpone, and we, too, have worried about the future. It has been overwhelming at times for us also, but we have remained positive and we have put fresh plans in place. We anticipate there may be localised lockdowns, but we are organised and focused on giving you a clean and safe environment to visit. We have ensured our supply chains are ready for all eventualities, and ultimately we aim to deliver to you your dream dress. Whether you choose a dress from the rail or made to order, we have your needs covered. Delivery dates will be approximate, but we will be making sure timescales are met. Alterations will need to be booked early. Next year, 2021, will be incredibly busy for seamstresses, so we need to work together to book your fitting appointments well ahead of time. You need to get quotes, in writing, so you know what to budget for, and make sure you have your underwear in plenty of time for your first fitting. Organisation and preparation will be key to having a stress-free run up to your wedding. And obviously your shoes. Do not forget your shoes! Nothing upsets a seamstress more than a fitting without the right footwear. Be covered New wedding insurance policies have been put on pause, but will be back. In the meantime, if you don’t have existing wedding insurance in place, it is advisable to pay your supplier deposits with a credit card. Before you part with any money, make sure you understand the terms and conditions of the contract. If your deposit is non-refundable you need to accept that it is exactly that: you are entering into a contract to buy. Regardless of a change of date, change of circumstance or just a change of heart, your suppliers have made the commitment to supply you with goods or a service. Equally you are making a commitment to them to honour the agreement. Wedding dresses are generally made to order, so once you have agreed to purchase your dress, it is important that full payment is made when the dress arrives. Cashflow is important to all businesses, and the bridal business is no different. With all the uncertainty over Covid-19, you can be reassured that professional independent bridal retailers have your best interests at the heart of their business. To us, you are more than a customer, you are not just a number on a spreadsheet or a sales target to meet. We don’t want to try to sell you a bag, box or a pointless petticoat to boost commission – we want to help you find your dream wedding dress, and perfect accessories, and also to be with you when you need advice, reassurance and guidance. This is what we do, we do it well and we do it with love, care and passion. So whether you are just starting with your wedding planning, or dealing with the disappointment of a postponed day and starting the process again, remember Tina Turner once asked: “What’s love got to do with it?” When it comes to weddings, Tina, the answer is “everything”. We look forward to you seeing you soon, there’s so much to get excited about. The dresses in store are beautiful... and we are ready to help make your wedding day magical. Together, with love, we’ve got this.

Sue Lovell x S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 29

WORKING TOGETH ER James Waddington of Romantica advises on the restructuring of relationships – not just those between suppliers and retailer but also those between boutiques and their brides Dear Colleagues This has been an incredibly difficult time for the entire country; we have all had to dig deep to make it through the lockdown stage of the pandemic and we have had to adapt to the current situation. Our ‘new normal’ is ever changing. The industry has adapted and evolved to help retailers and brides through this difficult time and I think this will become the cornerstone of our future. Retailers need to be adaptable and evolve to the changing needs of each and every bride: this is an epic task but also a chance to embrace a challenge. As we have seen over recent weeks, brides were told they could again have a wedding of 30 and then this was snatched away from them at the very last minute, then miraculously the 30-guest reception was back on the wedding menu again. Retailers have had to be flexible and try their best to meet the needs of their brides. The service you give is paramount to ensure good feedback and will impact future business through positive recommendation and word of mouth. In a bridal boutique, brides have confidence, security, a safe environment and an unrivalled bridal experience. With Covid-19 here for the time being at least, these cornerstones are exactly what will bring the them into your store and help you to grow your business. A trend which we are starting to see recently is an increase in numbers of destination weddings being planned. With so much uncertainty around rules in the UK and venues’ capacity, wedding planners are hearing more and more from couples considering this option. The main drawback to destination weddings in many people’s eyes has often been that the events are smaller by nature. If smaller is the new style for weddings, then it stands to reason weddings abroad will increase. Taking this into consideration when looking at what stock to invest in going forward is a must. I would also cite the 2008/09 recession as the last major recession and what we saw as an industry because of it. We went into the recession late – people already planning weddings went through with them – so bear this in mind now – we might not see the impact for some time. And although weddings did drop in number, more importantly so did the amount brides were investing in their dress. Learn from this and take the opportunity to stay agile and consider the price

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range of your offering. Maybe you need to look for collections 20% below your current offering? Another thing I would consider is the breadth of your offering – are there other products you can diversify into? Obviously, promwear took a big hit this year because of Covid-19, but now many events have been rearranged for the end of the year. Is this a market to consider? Are you maximising accessory sales? Bridesmaids? Eveningwear? Everything and anything should be an option and an audit of what you sell and what else may be viable is certainly a worthwhile exercise. At the moment we know brides are at home planning everything they can about their big day and waiting for lockdown to be over. The only place they can be at the moment is online and so make sure your digital presence is strong. We have a full-time marketing manager – Hayley – who is there to help with any questions you may have and all of our dresses are photographed and videoed and placed in an online portal for your convenience. Having a social plan, SEO strategy and AdWords approach is vital to making sure you capture those brides when they do have the confidence to start re-visiting stores and If brides know you are there organising their weddings. With the rules changing fairly regularly for them and will help in any I would also imagine some brides will leave it a bit later to be sure the wedding way possible then you will is allowed to go ahead – it is key that you continue to succeed and have a suitable selection of gowns you are willing and able to sell off the peg. grow your business We are currently investing in improving our online stock system so that you can re-stock your shelves as soon as possible when gaps arise. Staying positive is essential. You, our stockists are exceptionally talented at what you do and already offer brides an unrivalled experience – the pandemic won’t affect this; but to operate to the best of your ability through these uncertain times it is important to adapt and evolve with the changing situation and not get stuck in old ways. As the situation changes, plans will change for brides and if they know you are there for them and will help in any way possible then you will continue to succeed and grow your business. You may also need to adapt the way you buy; many retailers are not comfortable visiting huge trade shows, which is completely understandable, but this doesn’t have to affect how you buy. For example, our sales managers are travelling the country visiting our stockists, following all social distancing and sanitising requirements. This is a great way to see all the collections in a comfortable and safe environment entirely under your control. We also offer zoom consultations and our website is interactive with a colour change facility on our prom / Blue Moon collections, combined with videos so you can buy digitally if you prefer. The options are there for you to take advantage of, brides will want to see something new and there is no reason why you can’t buy safely. If you can adapt and stay positive, you will thrive in this next chapter and we will be there with you every step of the way. Yours sincerely

James Waddington

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Candidly Christine… Christine Dando, Director of Design for Dando London, retailer, TV personality, business veteran and influencer in the bridal industry, joins the Trader team. In her first column, she addresses how retailers can maximise on opportunities

thereby the weddings that will follow. ovid-19 has swept and Retailers can insulate themselves changed the landscape and thrive in a crowded and tough of industries across the market by adopting the changes globe and the bridal enforced by the pandemic and turning industry has not been them to their advantage. immune to the impact. Retailers were ordered to close Turn tragedy into triumph from 24 March and could not open Restricted entourage numbers with their doors in England until 15 June each bride could be normal practise while our Scottish counterparts had going forward. even longer to wait. This It is time to be bold and have The bride and her one or two core selling faith in yourself, your offer significant others, period cannot was the norm be recouped. and business. Invest in your when I started out However, couples are still future. You brides will then 30-odd years ago. You can always falling in love invest in and buy from you be certain that the and as Frank greater level of Sinatra sang: “Love and marriage go together like a opinions in the room, the less likely a sale on the first visit! horse and carriage”. But the aim is to get the sale on that Our industry is bouncing back first visit – and the process starts at and will continue to do so. Global the initial point of contact – usually via recession is inevitable according the phone or email. to leading economists but, back to w Make sure that everyone in your Frank, love is inevitable, too, and S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 33

part of. The shows will change and The new collections were all business answers the phone with a evolve following the effects of this smile – an uplifting joyous greeting is ready to go and designers needed year. I believe the key to success will to get them in front of retailers. The memorable and free! designers with agents took to the road be how this is managed. w Ensure emails are answered well – If buyers have found their ‘new way’ and those without took to the phone. no typos and promptly. The proactive labels had images and of selecting samples, what are these w Elevate your offer. The day of the casual walk in has gone, maybe never videos ready, making it an easier task. big shows going to be about and for? Retailers took to a new way of to return. ordering – viewing images and videos Looking ahead w Continue to keep the front door A contentious view, possibly, but I and enjoying supportive advice from locked and open by appointment strongly feel that shows will continue only. Take heed from the Bond Street knowledgeable teams. Active input to thrive if they adapt, and adopt crowd – it makes for a very special new ways of working and introduce and unique experience to ring Retailers can insulate fresh and appealing new ideas. a doorbell or phone to say you Very much like retailers, really! have arrived for your appointment themselves and thrive in a The social aspect, the meeting – a VIP moment. The bride feels crowded and tough market by of minds, seeing old friends and special, stores can manage is very much part of their staffing and it removes the adopting the changes enforced colleagues the fabric of trade shows. the requirement to have a member of staff watching the door. by the pandemic and turning opportunity to spot new designers, new trends and innovations is what them to their advantage a ‘live event’ offers. Invest in your business Now more than ever we need a Spend now for profit later. Counter draw to attend, something to make by designers and retailers alike has intuitive? Absolutely not. Well the ‘pilgrimage’ worthwhile. Such as ensured that the forward thinkers managed and successful bridal workshops for retailers expanded and amongst retailers are now enjoying retailers know the importance of hosted by industry leaders – not just new fresh samples in store and keeping their offer fresh and having bridal; top stylist tips from a TV pundit; reaping the benefit of healthy sales. the new season’s collections to offer business; financial… you get the idea. The process was seamless, their brides. Today’s market is savvy – Designers discussing the concept social media has never been stronger enjoyable and stress free. Dando of design and Q&As. I am sure there with potential customers researching London took on many new stores in is a myriad of possibilities for the lockdown, too! I believe that this way designers and following Instagram organisers to explore. and Tik Tok. Designers are promoting of working will continue for many. Stands should be strictly by 2021 collections so brides will be appointment only – a concept to make Does this cast LBFW and Harrogate seeking them out and if you do not hearts quake. Turning away a ‘walk to a footnote in bridal history? have the names, those brides will go on’ would have been unthinkable in Harrogate is scheduled to go ahead elsewhere. previous times. Yet it’s not. in October with designers booked to I firmly believe that the success Consider the ease of managing the attend, albeit in far reduced numbers stories in bridal retail are headed numbers on the stand and knowing than in previous years. by innovative and forward-thinking how many staff you will need at any Ocean Media, the organisers, people and these qualities are one time. Think about enjoying time have done all they can to encourage needed today more than ever. to talk with customers and potential retailers and designers to attend. Investing in new collections is not an customers. No more crowded unnecessary expense, it is essential to However, with local northern Sundays and ghost stand Tuesdays. lockdowns and the possibility of ensure that you can thrive. Sounds appealing. It will work if It is time to be bold and have faith in lockdowns anywhere in the UK, only organisers, exhibitors and retailers yourself, your offer and your business. time will tell if the show is a success. work together. And foreign buyers will be like hens’ Invest in your future and your brides Covid-19 has altered much this year, teeth – scarce! will then invest in you and buy from yet as an industry we can embrace I have loved and enjoyed these your shop. the change and make it work. Bridal industry shows for over three decades, attending as a retailer/buyer can and will survive and thrive in the The changing face of ordering coming year. Our industry is made of and latterly as a designer. I love the samples strong, resilient and forward-thinking buzz, the thrill of an industry coming The cancellation of London bridal people. No room for dinosaurs... we all together. Change is inevitable in the Fashion Week 2020 seems a distant know what happened to them! dynamic industry I am proud to be memory.

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DENITA

ronaldjoyce.com

IN STAG RA M

3. Don’t sleep on Stories, Instagram TV, and Reels Have you ever noticed when scrolling through your Instagram feed that the app tends to prompt you to view the Stories of someone you follow? They are displayed at the top of follower timelines where users can easily find them. That’s because Instagram knows that these types of posts create further engagement. And now that Reels have been released, Instagram encourages followers to explore and tatistics show that wedding search these posts as well. gown browsing is still one of Stories enable you to post various the most popular planning types of content (photos, images, activities so if you’re not leveraging social media platforms like and video) that disappear after 24 hours. Stories make a brand seem Instagram, you could be missing out more authentic and approachable so on connecting with more brides. In incorporating this into your strategy order to make every Insta post count will create more engagement. and work for your business, follow Consider these types of Stories that these guidelines: I often advise my bridal store clients to use: 1. Make sure your account is • Bride testimonials or experiences in switched to a business profile your store There are many benefits to switching your account from a personal account • ‘Just in’ Stories featuring new arrivals of wedding dresses to a business profile – the latter gives • BTS – behind the scenes followers the ability to click on a contact button right from your feed in • Try on Tuesdays where your staff get to play dress up and showcase the order to email you, just as they would features of a gown in your collection from your website. • Gown shopping tips You also get access to the • Staff picks or a bridal stylist highlight analytics tools that provide insightful information about your posts. In Although Stories disappear after addition, business profile accounts 24 hours (unless you create a allow you to create sponsored posts easily without having to use Facebook highlight section), the benefits can last much longer for your reach and advertising tools. engagement rates, which pushes up your chances of appearing in the 2. Take advantage of the free stat Explore section and helping you gain tools Insta provides new followers in the process. Once your account is switched to a Instagram’s response to the business account, you gain access popularity of YouTube videos, was to some awesome free stat tools like to release the IGTV feature so that engagement data, impressions, and longer video content can run live on demographics of your followers. the platform. If you have any virtual The more you know about how events like trunk shows or interviews your followers are interacting with with designers, then you should your posts, the better you can make definitely consider incorporating IGTV adjustments to your content in order to boost engagement. For example, if into your strategy. Reels are the most recent feature you research when your audience is

TenTop Tips S

In the US, with nearly 90% of wedding planning now being now done online and 75% of that audience looking up boutiques on their mobile devices, Instagram has become a favourite among brides. Myrna Daramy explains how to make every post work for your business

most likely to be scrolling (their active times,) it is best to post at those times.

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that Instragam has introduced this year in order to compete with TikTok, the latest social media platform that has taken the world by storm. The purpose is to create short snippets of video content with unique effects in order to increase engagement. Be sure to use your main feed to tell your followers about your Stories, IGTV posts, or Reels so they don’t miss them! 4. Use the Geotag Feature By using the geotag feature that tags your Instagram post with the location at which the image was taken, it increases the possibility of someone searching that location and finding you. Your bridal store relies on the locality of your brides so not using this feature will lessen your chances of brides in your area encountering your brand. 5. Create your very own interactive hashtag that your brides can use when they post user-generated content By creating your very own hashtag, you generate the ability to build a stronger community around your brand. It also helps you organise your content and makes it more discoverable. I always advise my clients to create a #realbride hashtag for their customers in order to help track usergenerated content when they post. Place this hashtag in your bio and on your website so it is easily visible to anyone engaging with your brand. Also, no one says that you have to have just one hashtag! You can also create different brand-related hashtags for specific campaigns or events. 6. Create certain themes and post them consistently One of the things that I often hear from my clients is that they aren’t sure what to post. So, I advise picking several themed posts (1-4) and staying consistent with creating posts within each theme. Here are a few themes that I

recommend: • Inspiration (images from the designers you carry in your collection • Real Brides • Store experiences (brides who just said yes, these just in, try on Tuesdays) • Curated posts with values or brand messaging 7. Be sure to tag other relevant accounts One of the most powerful features of Instagram is to use the tagging feature in order to connect with other brands that resonate with your brand. And in bridal, it is so easy to tag over bridal vendors featured in some of the images that you post. This allows for the possibility of additional views of your content, as you potentially share the bandwidth of the people who follow those other brands as well as trigger the brand that you tagged to connect with you.

Be sure to respond to all comments as this will help establish an authentic community. 10. Be sure to use all 30 hashtags Instagram still allows up to 30 hashtags per each post, so I suggest using them but make sure that you are doing so effectively. If you make your hashtags too generic, (think #bridalfashion,) you risk the potential of competing with millions of posts. Using hashtags that are too specific and you risk the chance of no one searching for it. I advise that you use a mix of both trending and industry-specific hashtags including your own to connect with your target followers. My rule of thumb is to select hashtags in the sweet spot of 1,000-200,000 searches. I also advise that you include the most relevant hashtags in the caption of the post and add the additional hashtags as a comment, so that your caption looks professional and targeted. Selecting your hashtags could be tricky, but I recommend researching each hashtag and evaluating the types of engagement they receive, as well as how many likes it has from its top-performing posts. I also suggest looking at other feeds in your industry to see what hashtags they use. If your content matches up, then you have a winning hashtag!

8. Use emojis effectively According to Quintly, posts with emojis receive 15% more engagement. There are thousands of emojis available to use and, by using the right ones, you can infuse personality and fun into your brand. Emojis can also build a more emotional connection with your audience. Just be sure to understand the context and meanings that emojis are used in order to ensure that you are using them appropriately. AND MY BONUS TIP? Just know that Instagram, like every other social media platform, is 9. Add a CTA or question to ensure constantly evolving, as is the way you engagement. will use it for your business. From my experience, whenever a Your Instagram journey is far from post asks a question or tells followers over, but as you explore different to do something, they have more ways to utilise this platform, don’t be engagement than those without a afraid to try different things in order to direct request. They tend to capture maximise your feed’s potential. followers’ attention and help steer a By following these ten tips, I’m sure follower to do a little “yes” which may you will observe a difference and get lead to a bigger yes over time. more out of each post you share. Every post should invite I’d love to know which of these you engagement by including some kind of question or invitation for discussion: have been doing? What will you start to implement this week? • What’s one emoji to describe...? As always, do connect with any • Vote your favourite A or B! questions – @myrnapdaray • Can you relate?

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DEA R RETAILER... William Dicks of Richard Designs, and Chair of the BBSA, shares his thoughts on the new chapter in bridal and how best we can work together to achieve success Dear Boutique Owner I am fed up of the phrase “new normal”, it is starting to drive me mad. Yes, we have lived through an extraordinary period of history this past six months, but the way some people churn this slogan out you would think “normally” nothing in this world ever changes. In May, I heard something that made much more sense to me about how the world responds to turbulent events “some changes are accelerated, some changes are initiated, some changes are paused”. This little phrase reassures me, it is a reminder that there is always change in the world and often it is the speed of the change that we react to. It is worth pausing for a few moments to consider; what changes has this pandemic brought about in our industry and what do they tell us about what the future might look like? During the pandemic, we have seen an acceleration in the growth of online sales. It is hard to imagine it could grow any faster after phenomenal increases over the past ten years. Sadly though, the one undeniable downside of buying online – the lack of human interaction – suddenly became a benefit during the lockdown. While e-commerce’s impact on bridal is questionable, what this whole episode has served to demonstrate to our government what was already plain to see to many of us; business rates for retailers are unfair and not representative of our changing economy. There is real hope now that positive change will come soon for bricks-and-mortar retailers. That would provide a welcome boost to our shops here in the UK. Retailers closing was already a trend, which many had identified in recent years; good retailers who simply felt it was too difficult to carry on. I am not talking about retailers who disappear overnight in a blaze of bad debt, but rather those who simply decide to close down in an orderly way because they do not see a positive way forward for their business. This is a change that has accelerated, I think. While we will miss many good retailers, in many ways it can be beneficial for the industry. With over-heated competition in some towns and cities easing, the remaining retailers have a better chance of being reliably profitable and more stable. That’s good for everyone. In other cases, there may be space for a new business to be established, with a fresh perspective and innovative ideas. That is also good. On the supplier side we may also see the same. If you have an old copy of a Harrogate show guide from five or ten years ago, grab it and have a flick through; it is surprising how many brands have disappeared in recent years, mostly the smaller ones, but not exclusively. Change has been initiated in the way suppliers and retailers work together and

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communicate. I am not one to predict the death-knell of exhibitions. Although they have undeniably been on the slide of the past five years, there was never really a satisfactory alternative. All hail then Zoom, which has allowed suppliers and retailers to continue communicating with each other during these challenging times. Video calls are a great time saver for all concerned and may allow more frequent communication between suppliers and retailers. Despite widespread displeasure with the way our exhibition organiser has handled the pandemic and its impact on the industry, I do think exhibitions will remain in some format. There is no replacement for seeing a dress on a model or customers and suppliers meeting face to face. It wouldn’t be a surprise to see them continue to shrink though. One change I hope has slowed is the rush to fast fashion and the race to the bottom on pricing. Exposure of the appalling working conditions in the supply chain of some big highstreet names and online retailers over the past few months has been welcome; it has been known for some time but too easily ignored. And the terrible treatment of factories by some household names, cancelling payments and orders with no contribution towards costs, is a story which isn’t over yet. It is a story which might yet affect bridal. Many factories in China who specialise in bridal, initially ravaged by their own lockdowns, have now had to face months with reduced orders due to world-wide restrictions on wedding ceremonies. This isn’t an issue which just affects the UK or Europe; Japanese bridal designers are reporting a huge reduction in business in their market, with orders at exhibitions in August down by 95%. All of this means factories under pressure, with many already closing. This does not balance well with the potential for unusually high demand in 2021 as brides play catch up. Reliable suppliers will be more important than ever – can you honestly say you know where your supplier or designer of choice gets their dresses or accessories manufactured? Another thing which hasn’t changed seems to be the appetite from some suppliers for high-minimums and long lead times for dresses. Certainly our vision for the future at Richard Designs challenges both these stubborn habits. Ask many suppliers and they will tell you it has to be this way because of the supply chain or because of the marketing budgets, or whatever else they can lay their hands on to excuse the old ways of working. Nonsense. Suppliers and retailers have to work collectively towards what our brides want and they want a curated choice in-store and fast delivery. That means retailers having a carefully-selected range of styles and designers in store, not being swamped by a huge collection all from one designer, forced on them by high minimums. A collection which will only produce a few styles which repeat regularly, the rest discontinued or ending up on the sale-rail in 12 months’ time (to make space for the next deluge of capital-draining, profit sapping samples). Too many suppliers rely upon sample sales to drive revenue but that model doesn’t align suppliers and retailers goals; we should all be working towards maximum repeats and best return on investment. In order to compete with off-the-rack retailers and online only, speed is also important and that means not having to wait 16 weeks for standard delivery. 2021 will present with a lot of last-minute brides, so retailers should make sure they have at least one or two options which can be delivered in very short time frames. There are more changes to come, many which have already started but are yet to become apparent. 2021 is going to be a very interesting year. Hopefully, with a more settled environment, we can get some perspective and see what changes have stuck. We have faced a year no one could have predicted. Just like you retailers who we admire for your proactive and professional approach to the problem of recent months, we at Richard Designs are taking this moment to look at all aspects of our services and consider how we can improve them. We don’t want to miss any opportunities and we want to support you in trying to convert every customer who walks through the door into a sale. Yours

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PullingTogether Dick van Zutphen, Director of Modeca Bridal, cannot stress enough the value of working together as an industry and sharing new roads forward

s rapidly as Covid-19 had spread across Europe in the past few months, so had uncertainty and insecurity spread within bridal. Engaged couples had to cancel their weddings, bridal shops were forced to close their doors, supply chains were damaged and became unstable, and trade fairs had been postponed or cancelled.

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For us at Modeca – and for many other designers and manufacturing brands – it was time to take action. After receiving numerous phone calls from our partners and customers and with all the concerns and worries within the industry, we launched the initiative ‘United We Stand’ sending a clear signal, not only to our customers, but to our competitors

SHOW BUSINESS The Bridal Event Amsterdam was an opportunity for faceto-face business

in the industry, brides themselves as well as to our friends. In critical times you need to be flexible, take responsibility and tackle things together. For me, it is vital that the words ‘United We Stand’ are meaningful. In order to accommodate the needs of retailers as much as possible, we adapted certain aspects of the order processing; when it comes to customer service and finance, we have been looking into each case in depth in order to decide how we can best help and support our clients in these difficult times. It is quite clear that the situation faced by one customer can be totally different to that of another. And here we are truly making the difference by treating each case as an individual. In addition, we are always available for our customers by phone and it is our aim to find the most appropriate solution to each issue that arises.

When it comes to managing difficult periods in life – both business and private – it is an advantage if you can rely on someone. And that is exactly the point we are focusing on here at Modeca Bridal. Over the past months, we have

Be prepared for change… sometimes we have to take risks if we want to go further, get better and explore new shores noticed that direct and personal contact has become a vital – and proof of what we already know; that bridal is a living business because of the people who fill it with life! Shortly before the Covid-19 shutdown we still had the chance to see and meet some of our

customers on site at The Bridal Event Amsterdam. The show was very well received and looking back on the event, the fact that we had the opportunity to spend quality time together with our partners and friends during BEA is something that fills me with great joy. The recent months have shown all of us how important it is to have people by your side who you can trust and with whom you can – personally and professionally – go through good times and through bad times. That is why we have been, and are in, constant contact with our customers and partners, and we see that many businesses are facing the current situation with creativity and courage – always looking at their own situation and where they could change small things that might have a big impact. We know that many shops would like to receive dresses from the 2021

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collection immediately, but also name the classic period – late August to end September – as the preferred date for a delivery. We are looking to meet needs and wants – flexibility has become more important than ever. But also, as in previous years, we are already receiving repeat orders for certain styles from those bridal stores that had requested immediate delivery and have had the opportunity to assist their brides over the past few weeks. We see that retailers in general are not only going the extra mile for each bride, but truly going far beyond that. We have seen boutiques supporting brides dealing with the disappointment of having to postpone their wedding; we have seen them helping brides get their dress on time for a wedding that was taking place during the pandemic; and we have seen them working with brides looking for the perfect dress for their most important day, without knowing when the wedding will take place. This is what we call ‘Make Magic Happen’ and we love our stores for this and will always be at their side to make the impossible become reality

for every bride. Close communication, flexibility and a willingness to offer extra help when needed by others is something we all have to bring to the table in these times. It is important that we keep moving and reaching out to colleagues, and of course to our brides, learning from each other and supporting each other. Let your brides know that you are there. Today we have the phenomenal sources of social media to get our message out and we must make use of them. Skype, Zoom, Facetime etc have taken priority over faceto-face conversation right now. And with the big international trade shows moving forward into the digital experience in trading, we need to recognise that we are entering a new chapter in bridal where we will be paving new ways. The last word from me is this: stay connected and be prepared for change… sometimes we have to take risks if we want to go further, get better and explore new shores. It’s down to us to create something new. And remember, we can go further while supporting each other. ‘United We Stand’.

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www.morilee.co.uk

ADELAIDE

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O UR WAY Over to Justin Warshaw of Justin Alexander, who spells out the steps his company has taken to ensure that it delivers the best possible communication processes and stockist support

t Justin Alexander, we are humbled by the challenges that this year has brought us, yet excited both to serve and enable our clients at a new level. It would have been a pity to emerge from this unprecedented time and not have learned or gained anything to operate better in future. We cannot deny how the pandemic has deeply affected how business in the bridal industry will be conducted going forward. Safety concerns and shifting consumer behaviour have changed how stores are operating now and potentially for the long term. For instance, shops are continuing to use virtual consultations to prequalify clients and help save time in store. Many retailers are also moving to showing ‘closed stock’, meaning the bride is only perusing and trying on gowns selected by the stylist. Meanwhile, the boutiques are able to have more open conversations with brides about their needs. We can attribute this to closer wear-dates and hesitation around additional appointments due to safety concerns. As a result, brides are shopping

around less, and stores are in turn, closing sales at higher rates. These shops are needing and adding more inventory to sell off-the-rack to meet the demand. At a corporate level, we remain committed to fostering transparency, convenience and accountability in serving our customers. We are dedicated to anticipating our customers’ needs and delivering an unparalleled partnership and experience. For us, it’s important not only to be ready to tackle the immediate demands and opportunities at hand. We are also examining our efforts to address longer-term issues and priorities. Similarly, we urge retailers to take into consideration what their partners are doing, as the actions of the designers whom they work with today will no doubt affect the health of their businesses in the future. At Justin Alexander, we understand that thriving in the long term is not strictly about the bottom line. We recognise that we have also a responsibility to address sustainability and are actively taking strides towards setting an example for the bridal industry. Our current approach includes:

Supporting ethical factories • We build our supply chain upon long-standing relationships with trusted factories and raw material suppliers. • We require suppliers to adhere to an ethics charter to ensure that high standards of trading are met. Our owners visit our factories twice a year, and our quality control teams conduct monthly audits. • We are going cruelty-free and avoiding the usage of any fur, feather or animal products in our collections. Building a sustainable future • We source locally to our factories to reduce shipping of raw materials. • We maximize sea shipments to reduce carbon emissions. • We donate our excess fabrics to fashion schools and slightly worn samples to charity or communities in need. • We allow our retailers to opt in or out of receiving marketing materials, hangers and garment bags. • We are moving to powering our US warehouse facility with solar energy.

Our efforts regarding corporate sustainability as well as business longevity for our customers have only accelerated amidst the current climate of this year, yet we recognise Leveraging technology • We digitalise our sales operations to that there is more work to be done and much more that can be realised reduce the use of paper. on all fronts. • We optimise our supply chain by Retailers can make the most of this using sophisticated time-phased transitional time by ensuring that the inventory and purchase order technology to avoid over-production partners they work with reflect and and waste of product and to reduce contribute to the bright future they wish to see. re-shipments and our carbon footprint.

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ON B OT H Helen Lord of awardwinning Lulu Brown’s Bridal Boutique, is also the creative director of the LG Group. Jill Eckersley spoke to her about her dual role – and her vision for both businesses moving forward

his time last year, Wedding Trader was speaking to Neil Flatley of the LJ Group about celebrating the company’s 25th anniversary and his plans for the future. Those plans included a new 46 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

partnership with Helen Lord whose highly-successful retail operation is based just a few miles away from the LJ Group’s HQs. Helen became the Group’s Creative Director with special responsibility for marketing their new brand, Georgia Bridal. Neither Neil nor Helen could possibly have predicted the changes to the bridal business that would occur in 2020 as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic, so we were especially keen to speak to Helen about how the partnership is faring in these extraordinary times. “Having a business partner was a new thing for both of us,” Helen laughs, “but we soon realised the benefits of having someone to bounce ideas off. We are very different

GO WITH THE FLOW Ultra-feminine pieces from the new Charlotte Bridal Collection

S I D ES NOW people – Neil comes from the finance side and I’m from the creative side – but our management styles are quite similar. Learning to share responsibility has been a challenge but we feel we have now found our rhythm!” Of course Helen is still very much involved with the Lulu Browns team in addition to her new responsibilities at the LJ group because, as she says, both companies are very much part of a bride’s journey, and that is something that the individual teams have to remember. “There’s no such thing as a ‘typical day’ for me, and my door is always open,” she says. “The team at Lulu Browns design for me too and it all works really well. I’m happy to make

a brew when it’s needed, as well as making sure every member of the design staff feels supported in these uncertain times. “The thing is that no-one knows, right now, how the situation we’re in will affect our industry and people are terrified. Will the industry change permanently? We just can’t tell. So many of the shows we would have attended were cancelled and if they start up again, will people feel confident about travelling to them? “During the lockdown LJ was still shipping items out. We went into the office one at a time and our phones were all diverted. Weddings and First Communions were cancelled, but we tried to use our time productively and did what we could.

“I think 2021 will be difficult unless the Government gives us clearer guidelines. My feeling is that the industry will have to shrink and contract before it expands. However, I also feel that might not be a bad thing. We do need to cull the over-supply of mass-produced rubbish. As a company, we want to feel real passion for every single line that we promote. Sustainability has always been very important to me. I walked the halls at Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week last year and for the first time I felt uneasy at the sense of waste. This could be the time to think carefully about what we produce.” Time to rethink Helen says she used the ‘downtime’

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Georgia Bridal and Arianna

at our HQ; we now have dedicated creative spaces and have revamped our sewing rooms and warehouse to accommodate our growth which we hope will happen organically. I built Lulu’s reputation on customer service just as Neil has done with the LJ Group. It hasn’t been all doom and gloom. I love a challenge and I love change and I’ve had plenty of both to keep me occupied!”

HELEN’S HINTS for retailers when Lulu Browns was in lockdown to sit back, take stock, and work out what was most important both for the boutique and for the LJ brands she was marketing. The LJ Group took over the Charlotte Balbier brand in 2017 and launched the new brand Georgia Bridal last year. Charlotte Balbier has now been re-branded as Charlotte Bridal and both are designed by the same team, headed by Jess, who is also the mangeress of Lulu Browns. True to Helen’s belief in sustainability, she says that Georgia Bridal gowns have a clean, modern, chic and above all, timeless look and feel. “Our stockists shouldn’t feel they have to buy 15 different dresses every year,” she says firmly. “Charlotte Bridal has retained the boho style it was always known for, but also has a more grown-up feel. I’ve always been concerned by companies who include half a dozen lines in one brand. I don’t think it’s good for the industry to dilute what we do. “Both Georgia Bridal and Charlotte Bridal have to tell their own stories. Fabulous designs should be able to hang in a boutique for three years or more and not look out of place. Of course LJ is also well-known for its headdresses, Arianna, which are all made in the UK and have been a big success for us over the past 12 months. They are becoming fashion-

forward as well as bridal. We have seen brides choosing pearl pieces for their weddings and perhaps something different for the evening reception.” Helen is clearly relishing being involved in the entire bridal process, from caring for her original business to seeking out and encouraging new stockists. “I would never want to leave Lulu Browns,” she says simply. “With my years of experience I can say to new stockists ‘this will be important for your brides’ or let them know if I think that something won’t work. “Good bridal retailers will survive this crisis. Yes, brides can demand a great deal from the experience of finding their dream dress, but so they should! After all it’s not every day that a woman spends a thousand pounds on a dress. If customers are difficult, nine times out of ten it’s because retailers haven’t communicated effectively with them, or because there’s something else going on in their lives. Bridal retailers really need to be ‘people’ people. “I wouldn’t want to be stuck behind a desk all day. I make a point of spending time in every part of the business every week. My passion has always been branding and design, but the past four years have seen my interest in manufacturing grow, too. Many changes have taken place

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• Be really clear about your brand, your target market and what makes you and your boutique unique. • Look at your figures quarterly, rather than week by week. PreCovid-19 patterns may not return but remember, life has changed. • Winners focus on winning, not on what others are doing. Be strong, listen to your gut instincts and stick to your own business path. • Brides want to be inspired by new and innovative designs – but buy tight, analyse each item, and buy gowns which are different from anything else hanging in your boutique. • Charge for your appointments. Know your worth, hone your craft and you will never look back when it comes to asking for a nominal amount to secure an appointment. • Remember you are not alone! Tough times may be ahead, but try not to feel daunted. I lend my ear and experience to lots of our retailers that’s a part of my job that I really love – and if you read this and feel you need someone to listen, just get in touch with me at helen@lulu-browns.com

WO RT H K N OWI N G In the US, The Bridal Council is a membership body focused on the needs of the various sectors within the industry and offering expert advice on business, while Pullquest offers a platform for brand presentation and buying. The two are working together and bringing welcomed change to the market. We posed the questions, first to Bridal Council... The Bridal Council – what exactly is it and when/why was it set up? The Bridal Council is a non-profit organisation whose membership

consists of fashion designers, retailers, media and experts in the bridal industry. The Bridal Council’s goal is to provide content, trends and insight to further consumerism and awareness in the areas of fashion, accessories, fine jewellery, beauty, travel and home and tabletop as it relates to the bride in the marketplace. The Bridal Council was established in 2016.

Our advice to retailers is to continue to service the brides. A bride will always want to have that magical moment when she finds her dress... that has not changed. The retailer will provide their exemplary service while practicing COVID safety protocols. This may mean adding a virtual consultation before the actual instore visit or other creative ways that retailers have had to adapt to meet needs in the current environment.

What specific support do you offer your members/audience? The Bridal Council brings the industry together… be it for consumer-facing events like Wedding Weekend on Madison Avenue or for market-related initiatives like going virtual and developing a technology platform together. In addition, members get preferred rates available on hotels, travel, and shipping.

Will the virtual buying situation make it difficult for new names? We actually feel that for the newer designers, being part of the new Bridal Council X Pullquest site will allow them to be seen by many retailers who might not have had the time to see them during a traditional market. Retailers will be able to ‘browse’ collections at their own pace, and take the time to check out some new brands.

Right now, in this extremely difficult environment, what advice to you have for retailers?

What is the best way do you feel for suppliers to get their message

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In the end, the dress is what is most important to them and that photo of their big day is the image that will last for a lifetime. Our designers in the luxury sector have been telling us that there is now an opportunity to sell a ‘simpler” dress for the ‘micro-wedding’ or virtual ceremony and a second dress for the Talking about social media – how active is The Bridal Council and what postponed reception. is working best for you and your Do you foresee many retail closures members? For our designer members, Instagram in the year ahead? And suppliers how are they staying safe? and Pinterest are proving to be the We do not see retail closures as most effective of the current social the demand for gowns is still there. media platforms. The designers, their staff and all of the retailers have implemented the From all your research, will brides highest of safety protocols. whose weddings have been postponed, still want that special Will live shows be a thing of the past dress, and will their budgets have once retailers get used to buying in a shifted downwards? very different environment? This is a moment that every bride There will always be a place for live has been dreaming about and now shows…. we can’t wait for April! The planning for. Although many couples live show will work hand-in-hand with have had to shift their ‘event’ to 2021, using new technology like The Bridal we anticipate that the special dress Council X Pullquest. will still be a main focus. over to retailers and, ultimately, to brides? Through dynamic and compelling imagery that is shared with the traditional media outlets and online through the various social media channels that tick the right boxes.

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And now over to Pullquest... Who set up the business, when and where? Natalie Meyer and Pavel Presniakov, in 2018 in Los Angeles Was its development spurred on by the complexities of the current climate? Pullquest started as a PR platform, connecting designers with celebrity and editorial stylists online to streamline the pull process and open up opportunities for emerging designers. The current climate spurred the launch of the wholesale side of Pullquest, as we saw that designers will also need to showcase collections and connect with buyers through an online platform. How does it work, step by step? ➢– Designers create their online showroom, uploading images, videos and 360 product photos of their looks. ➢– Each look has a description and designer details.

➢– Buyers: View line sheet info, add items to their cart, place order; both the sales team and the buyer receive an email with the order details. – Stylists: Add looks to their cart, fill out pull details, send off pull request; designer receives an email with the pull request and can accept or decline. – Media: See collections, download press kits. – Chat: Members can chat with each other to discuss orders, coordinate shipping and invoices, coordinate pick up / drop off with stylists and book virtual appointments.

Our initial goal is that the orders placed will mimic what would have taken place had market been conducted in person.

There is no cost to the retailers.

Do you see this as a global venture, or just domestic? This is a certainly a global venture. How can a designer make the system Bridal designers from Canada, Israel, London and all parts of the US will be work to their advantage? – Online look book: Designers should on the site. Pullquest already works with brands from across the world upload clear, simple images and videos for buyers and stylists to easily including Lebanon, Ukraine, UK, France and Italy and there is a global see all the intricate details – brands network of buyers. with highest online sales are the ones with the most straight-forward Will design houses use the system imagery. to supplement other activity such as – Member page: Designers should low-key local shows, rep visits etc? make sure to have all their contact Yes, sales reps will be able to book information, and details about their virtual appointments with their brand as well as a video on their Here’s a video for the wholesale clients via the platform and we are process: www.vimeo.com/428915002 member page to give a holistic view experimenting with live fashion shows of the brand. – Connecting: Brands can reach out Target audience? that can replace or supplement physical High-end, luxury designers, emerging to and chat with buyers and stylists shows as well as online trade shows. through the platform, introducing designers; independent luxury their brand and inviting members to boutiques, bridal salons, high end How many suppliers are onboard online retailers; editors, celebrity and browse the collection right now? editorial stylists. Pullquest has over 100 designers What is the cost involved? and agencies on the platform. Within Bridal Council designers have special the luxury bridal designers sector What take-up are you expecting in partner pricing with additional terms of orders placed with your there will be approximately 20 Bridal features and customisation included. Council members. It is very exciting. clients? S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 51

FR O M AN AGEN T’S P ER S P ECTIVE... Tony and Claire Bromilow represent a big portfolio of high-profile brands and have been working closely with their huge network of stockists to put support in place in these difficult times

ell it’s been quite a year for our industry and it’s fair to say we as agents have had to get creative – just as our stockists themselves have had to. Like many, the realities of juggling

a business and managing home schooling (in our case, of four children) has proved to be both challenging and frustrating. While the shops may have been closed during lockdown, keeping in touch with our accounts has been more important than ever and we have provided marketing support so that they can continue to work on social media and, importantly, have a much-needed ear to bend. COVID-19 has well and truly pulled the rug from under all of our feet and we have to find new ways to approach the situation we now find ourselves in. What this means for the future of our industry we simply don’t know, however what we do know is that we have to think outside the box.

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Show time, or no time The ‘old’ ways of selling to our clients via the traditional trade shows are a thing of the past – at least for a while yet – as there are many stores who simply don’t have the confidence to attend such an event under the current circumstances and concerns about a new wave spikes in the virus. Whether or not a trade show can realistically go ahead providing all the safety measures and social distancing rules is another thing we can’t really assess but given the measures in place, one has to ask if a trade show could be a success in terms of numbers of visitors. That’s a question we can’t answer. In the short term at least, we need to move in a new direction that ensures the safety and

on what we’ve missed we have to be positive and proactive. We are now back on the road with our events and visiting stores and working remotely via Zoom. It’s a whole new dimension and it’s been uplifting to see so many embracing the ‘new normal’ and taking it in their stride. No one can afford to stand still; we have to keep moving forward and we have to stay positive. For stores finding suppliers who work with them every step of the Let’s talk way in these challenging times is Communication is key, it always has crucial. We are extremely fortunate been but now, more than ever, we as to work with some of the most agents have to be in touch with our supportive brands in the industry who stores all the time. have helped to navigate our valued In return, stores need to keep in stockists through this storm. touch with their suppliers especially Next year... who knows what we where finance issues are concerned. will face, but we are making lots of Most suppliers will stand by their plans to cover all bases. Our designers are finalising the new We have had to change collections and our amazing our approach with the way we teams are working hard behind Going the pop-up route We were fortunate enough to present our collections and have the scenes. One thing is for certain, we will be here and we have had a very successful launched a ‘pop up’ tour will be stronger than ever. collection launch at Bridal On a lighter note, lockdown Event Amsterdam right at the has provided us with some beginning of the pandemic. As precious family time, some glorious stockists at a time like this and find we returned home, the UK went into sunshine and time to do some work a mutual way of getting through the lockdown and everything came to a on the house, including building a rough patches. standstill. deck and an outside bar. Since staying For retailers, it has never been We have had to change our in is the new going out, we’re are more important to use the tools your approach with the way we present making the most of it. suppliers provide you with – images our collections and have launched a Our fridge is permanently being and video content for social media ‘pop up’ tour. raided by four children with insatiable and, of course, your website. We see These events have been a huge time and time again that some stores appetites, and the words “I’m bored” success, enabling our clients to are ringing in our ears. However, concentrate on social media activity see our collections in a new and the gin and wine cooler is regularly and forget about the importance safe place, confident they are not stocked up so we will get through the surrounded by masses of visitors and of constantly updating their web challenges we are facing! presence with new collections, hence giving us more one-to-one information and inspirational ideas time, which right now is important. For information on the brands that will capture attention. We have heard stories of some we represent please contact us Moving forward… well this is brands demanding large minimums abagenciesltd@gmail.com or DM on from stores in order to keep the label. probably the biggest challenge we social media @abagencies. This is simply shocking. Right now, it is all face. We are coming to the end We are agents for Randy Fenoli not about selling volumes of dresses… of the buying season and many Bridal, Modeca Bridal, Curves by stores have still not been able to it is about keeping our shops up to Modeca, Le Papillon by Modeca, Jazz see new collections because of the date with new designs and providing by Modeca, Herve Paris, LiBelle Bridal restrictions. This is frustrating for them with enough material to and Miranda Templeton Tiaras. everyone. But rather than dwelling promote the collections digitally. comfort of our clients. In addition, with local lockdowns occurring at the drop of a hat, no one can make firm plans to travel at the minute. And that’s not even taking into account the quarantine rules from Europe that are changing day by day causing logistical problems. It is imperative that suppliers receive the support they need and flexibility from large organisations regarding shows at such a volatile time. Suppliers and designers need solid support so that they, too, can survive this crisis. Everyone has to work together. We are aware of agents and small company owners who have had to take second jobs to try to keep themselves and their businesses afloat. Good, hard-working people who are simply trying to ride the storm and keep their business on track.

As agents and suppliers, it’s our duty of care to support our stockists without adding pressure. We all know that stores need to keep up with new designs and we all need to sell dresses; however, without some understanding and flexibility from all sides no one will survive long enough to do either. Everyone must tread with caution and be realistic about what they can afford to do without missing out on new stock.

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PHOTO FINI SH Who doesn’t know Peta Hunt? Not a single soul in bridal, that’s for sure. Twenty-two years with You & Your Wedding and now freelance fashion director and style consultant, she has orchestrated and shot many thousands of fashion pages in destinations across the world. We asked for some of her favourites...

hen Susi asked me to write this piece I thought it would be easy. Actually it’s been ridiculously difficult! I honed my favourites down to a top 40 and then struggled, so basically I’ve just grabbed pictures that I like from the past five years – because they all illustrate different issues – too hot, too cold, wrong cloud, too much sun, not enough, no location, perfection location, all on a budget and trying to inspire the readers. Here goes…

Shot on location in Rye by the lovely Wendy Carrig this dress was by Theia. It worked so well in a slightly eccentric vintage way, Blooming Gayles fresh flowers were fabulous and she got the brief nailed. Mind you, the cobbled street played havoc with heels - you try running in them down the uber hilly Mermaid Street (avoid trying at all costs if there is a drop of rain on them!). 54 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

Back with Wendy on location again, this time in Spain which looked more like Thailand than Thailand! This dress by Naeem Khan inspired the dresses for the whole shoot – we were trying to do a Frida Kahlo without the eyebrow look. I really think it’s nice to have the occasional coloured dress, too. What you have to bear in mind is if you’ve got 30 editorial pages of dresses to fill, variety is key – they can’t all be big white ball gowns.

In the middle of a fabulous blue-sky summer, it had to be the most overcast day when we were in an Oxford field shooting with Gifford’s Circus, again, Wendy Carrig who had to control a big group of performers in a quiet and calm manner to get what was needed. This is a particular favourite of mine just because I like the whole idea of a trousers suit as an alternative to the gown. This one is Hebe.

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Shot on location in Maldives (yes tough, I know, but jet lag can be a problem and on this shoot we had a model who missed a plane – she wasn’t “feeling it” – but felt better the next day and flew in on a direct flight! So I was a bit stressed an sleep deprived. Plus, as a team we had to work with her too!. This is a fantastic lace dress by Sassi Holford. Everything just worked for me for this picture shot by Dan Williams. When you’re travelling abroad you really need someone you can rely on to produce the images, in the heat, and do a couple of stories a day, but still look lux. By the way, this model was a dream!

Always looking to use something different to work with dresses – a jacket, opera coat, cape, and this, a kimono; who doesn’t like to swish around in something fabulous? This one by Eliza Jane Howell was shot by Catherine Harbour and we had to shoot two stories a day (roughly 16 pages) in a very busy public location and to work round the hotel’s guests. As usual, the Savoy was very accommodating but you spend a lot of time before shoots sourcing locations. Thank heavens for travel and hotel PRs – obviously they benefit from it but you have to fit in with their diary; it’s all about negotiation and the type of response they know they’ll get. With wedding shoots you need room for dresses, hair and make up and accessories, plus the team. 56 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

This shot always makes me laugh and I still have physical memories from it five years on. (Tip: always use biodegradable ‘snow’ otherwise you’ll be finding flakes forever). I ‘snowed’ my back garden on one of the hottest days of the year and Jason Moore shot the image. With no budget for location, I was forced to shoot in the garden– I can’t tell you how many stories I’ve shot chez moi. Winter dress by Madeline Gardner at Mori Lee.

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This is classically beautiful dress by Justin Alexander, and was shot in our teeny tiny studio by Elizabeth and Isla. The Edwina Ibbotson headpiece really helps add drama. It’s always tricky to try new people to work with but it is so important to stay fresh looking. Shot in the Hub at Immediate’s office giving that wonderful luxury, large studio vibe when in reality we worked around the cafe and table tennis table.

I realise looking through my pictures that I could do a whole issue with fringed dresses. I just love the way they move and this one was by Santos Costura. We were in the Maldives; the weather was hot and humid with thunderstorms at the same time so we had to shoot undercover (first world, problem I know). This was with Jason Moore and I just spent ages combing the fringes because they’ve got slightly knotted in transit. It does look odd to see two grown women combing dresses.

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This time we thought we had the location for all day and it turned out we had it for a couple of hours before the lunchtime trade arrived so we had to do a massive glamour shoot in super-fast time. Thanks to Dan Williams, we managed to do that, move location and do covers and a completely different styled shoot in the afternoon. This whole outfit is from Kate Halfpenny and I just love the glamour of it all, with the City of London in the background.

What better way to show a high low dress then to have the Eiffel Tower in the background? This was a real fun shoot to do, Mariah Carey was staying at the same hotel and every time we popped out to shoot hordes of people thought it’s Mariah and were then bitterly disappointed to see team YYW; all the paparazzi and fans would lift their cameras up only to sigh and put them down again when they saw it was just us. On this great shoot by Donja Pitsch., we managed to get ten shots in, then pack up, call a taxi, pay the bill, as Mariah put in an appearance in the lobby, followed by two film crews.

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This shot is by Jason Moore, the dress is by Ezra Atelier at Morgan Davies. I loved this basically because we had the smallest studio in the world at Immediate media and Jason managed to make it look like we were in a vast space every time! I have decorated these walls in balloons, carpets, sheet metal, curtains, boxes, ladders you name it. I crammed stuff in that small space to look like we were in a big posh studio somewhere!

Back in that small space we called a studio to do a whole series of pictures with movement. This model knew how to make it look like she was running with virtually no space to go. I think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to get movement in pictures otherwise bridal can look a bit solid sometimes. Again it is important to book the right people for the job, Jason Moore can get a smile on your face and plenty of movement in the model. This dress is by Zaeem Jamal.

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Yet another chucking-it-down day. Why was it that whenever we booked to shoot outside the rain started? Fate? But the very talented Richard Burns gave a lovely couture feel to this dress. The whole shoot was quite spectacular, though trying to keep the dresses out of the mud and clean was tough. I thought he made this Vera Wang dress stylish and romantic.

Freezing weather and damp – great for the team to work in and for the hair. However, Dan Williams shot this in Canary Wharf and I just like the feel of it. I think it’s modern and fresh and shows girls who visualise the ‘big dress’ that they don’t have to go the traditional route. Dress by Coco Amore.

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Letter from America Positive news… bridal is weathering the storm, so it seems, says Peter Grimes of VOWS magazine, as facts and figures and research indicate retailers have adopted new buying attitudes

here is positive news from across the pond that bodes well for UK boutiques: Based on an evaluation of the VOWS subscriber data base, and anecdotal surveys and interviews with retail groups and manufacturers, the number of bridal boutiques that have permanently closed due to Covid-19 is remarkably small, and far fewer than we feared in our initial and worse-case projections in April and May.

Though too soon to state such a conclusion unequivocally, especially with the year-end bridal doldrums months away, I am nonetheless optimistic about the future of our industry… especially in comparison to the devastation we see happening in the restaurant, event and hospitality industries. According to Yelp, as of 11 August over 155,000 businesses (the bulk in hospitality and retail) had closed since March, 55% of which are believed to be permanent closures.

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(Important caveats here: not all restaurants or retail businesses are listed on Yelp, which is why many business consultants suggest that the number of permanent closures is actually much higher. And Yelp’s study also partially relied on business listing owners updating their own listings.) There is never only one reason for the ‘how’ or ‘why’ something happens, yet I’m convinced that the ‘why’ in this case of ‘dodging the Covid bullet’ is due to a characteristic unique to all those who consult with brides, regardless of their location, size of business or product category: a creative resiliency. Something to be proud of It’s a trait we’ve consistently celebrated, admired, and attributed to bridal boutiques on both sides of the Atlantic… a resiliency that separates

•

realities, frustrated by the challenges of adapting a different tack, and consumed by fears of being blown off course… or worse. And though we’re still hearing reports that mask requirements continue to be a touchy customer service issue (with some owners frustrated by close competitors not adhering to the same ‘rules’), the overall attitude is one of guarded optimism. After numerous conversations with boutique owners and stylists across North America, I’m most often left amazed by their attitudes and resiliency, by a hunger for details of how other shops are faring, and by a willingness to share what is working for them. Several responses to a recent VOWS Facebook question speak of this attitude. We asked boutique So much has been learned owners what the one lesson, either All this,while accepting and personal or professional, 2020 taught developing an effective, empathic them: This is an example of what has leadership approach with and for been said: fearful employees and customers. “Sometimes you have to slow down You’ve responded by pivoting to: ➢• a primary focus on the gown and its in life to find clarity. This year forced a lot of us to slow down. While I don’t ever accessories want to repeat a year like this, many ➢• enhanced on-line and in-store of us were on an overburdened path experiences that got a much-needed break. I’ve ➢• improved how and when of also learned to really look at the silver customer contact ➢• expanded social media campaigns linings and continue with the positive attributes as we work our way back to a and activity ➢• appointment-only sessions focused life of ‘normal’.” And this: entirely on the bride “To never compromise your values, ➢• altered boutique hours to better morals and beliefs for anyone, no service your brides and improve matter how much you love this industry. staff scheduling ➢• taking numerous steps to protect the Never let your emotions cloud your best health and safety of your employees judgment.” I’m reminded of a quote from Jon and brides through a keen awareness Kabat-Zinn, Ph.D, internationally of sanitation, social distancing and known for his work as a scientist, preventative maintenance… while trying to adhere to inconsistent local writer, and meditation teacher engaged in bringing mindfulness and state guidelines into the mainstream of medicine and society: This isn’t to claim, however, that He said: “You can’t stop the waves, bridal boutique owners have clear but you can learn to surf.” skies and smooth sailing ahead of Quite an appropriate description of them. Too many are desperately struggling against the tide of changed resiliency. US and UK boutiques from other retail businesses as it is underpinned by a genuine heart for the bride. This resiliency has enabled many of you to overcome a near-perfect storm of: ➢• riding out three months of nonexistent sales ➢• furloughing trusted employees ➢• non-personal virtual interaction with brides ➢• complete meltdown of Prom ➢• the near total loss of men’s formalwear retail and rental ➢• the dramatic decline in bridesmaids sales occurring virtually overnight ➢• the loss of interaction with peers and resources through the postponement, cancellation and/ or reformatting of fall and spring markets.

WOW FROCK !

We Love... Mercier by Élysée with its many detachables – sleeves, overskirt, lace necklace. Chantilly lace and tulle. And seven different ways of wearing it! elyseebridal.com/en/ collections/atelier

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“Since the bridal shops opened again, I have visited two and felt incredibly comfortable and, importantly, safe, as it was obvious they were putting the needs of their customers first. I went with my mum and I think she really enjoyed feeling involved – far more than she would have done if we’d been a big group as my friends are noisy and can be opinionated. And I felt very relaxed and also special as we were the only people there, in both shops so it felt a bit like royal treatment! I haven’t found ‘the one’ yet and said yes to the dress, but I reckon I am close to making a decision for my December wedding.”

“Having an expert making suggestions about styles and

“As mum of a future

shapes is so helpful. I am a torn-jeans-Doc Martens type

bride I am so sad that

of girl and have never worn anything vaguely formal.

plans have necessarily

The consultant at the boutique I went to really went out of her way to find out about ‘me’ rather than the where’s

been changed,

and when’s of the wedding itself and got me interested

dates postponed etc

in the sort of dress I would have discarded just seeing

because of Covid-19.

it on social media on a website. They say you can’t beat professional advice and now I understand exactly what that means. My only problem is will my fiancé recognise me when we finally tie the knot!”

But my daughter has been stoic and taken the attitude of ‘it is what it is’ which I think is a great show of her strengths. She has got me involved in her online hunt for dresses and as a result I have found something I love for myself. Shopping together will now be a special treat.”

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HI GHL IGH TERS Accessories make the outfit and every fashionista has their favourite quote on the subject. Show a bride what a difference the right shoes, jewellery or headdress can make, and she’ll be saying yes not only to the dress but to all the extras, too Arianna Bespoke Accessories Style: AR598 Everlasting Tiara

Special features: Hand-wired branches of pearls that form a bold statement tiara E: arianna@theljgroup.co.uk W: ariannatiaras.com Showing at Harrogate in October: Yes Collection available virtually? Yes How best to order: A visit to the Lancashire showroom or a visit from a rep

Rachel Simpson Style: Cecelia 995

Materials: Suede/ leather Special features: Rich autumnal colour, extremely comfortable fit Heel height: 6.5cm E: info@rachelsimpsonshoes.co.uk W: rachelsimpsonshoes.co.uk If showing at Harrogate in October: No Collection available virtually: Yes How best to order: Email for info

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Freya Rose

Style: Roxy Blanco 02 Material: Ivory leather Special features: Brass and mother of pearl heel Heel height: 10cm E: wholesale@freyarose.com W: freyarose.com Showing at Harrogate in October: No Collection available virtually: No How best to order: Email for info

Rachel Trevor Morgan Style: R2007

Material: Silk taffeta Special features: Bow headband with face veil E: trade@racheltrevormorgan.com W: racheltrevormorgan.com If showing at Harrogate in October: No If collection is available virtually: Yes How best for retailers to order: Email for lookbooks and price lists

Diane Hassall

Style: Mirella from the English Summer Garden collection Materials: Nude suede and ivory satin florals Special features: Open waisted floral embellished shoe with organza ankle ties and pearl accents Heel height: 11cm E: di@dianehassall.com W: dianehassall.com Showing at Harrogate in October: No Collection available virtually? Yes How best to order: Contact Di by email

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LJ Group Veils

Style: LA606 Retro-style veil Material: Polkadot tulle Special features: Available in various lengths, comes attached to a comb E: info@theljgroup.co.uk W: linzijay.com/bridal-veils Showing at Harrogate in October: Yes Collection available virtually: Yes How best to order A visit to the Lancashire showroom or a visit from a rep

Twilight Designs Hair Accessory Style: TLH3164

Material: Silver hair pins with small blush flowers Special features: Comes as a two-piece set, ideal for brides or bridesmaids E: info@twilightdesigns.co.uk W: twilightdesigns.co.uk

Miranda Templeton Style: Hellebore

Showing at Harrogate in October: Yes

Materials: Gold tone wire, brass components and glass

If collection is available virtually: Yes

pearls

How best to order: Email, phone or through brand new website

Special features: Intricate embellishments this vine features two enamelled blooms offset by brushed golden leaves and surrounded by soft berry clusters. E: info@mirandatempleton.co.uk W: mirandatempleton.co.uk If showing at Harrogate in October: No Collection is available virtually: The new collection Lost Garden on the website and social media pages. How best to order: Contact agent Tony Bromilow abagenciesltd@gmail.com / +44 (0)7962 226543

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Rainbow Club Style: Rochelle

Material: Ivory Satin Special features: Slim stiletto heel wrapped in a new gold parquet print Heel height: 10cm E: shoes@rainbowclub.co.uk W: rainbowclub.co.uk If showing at Harrogate in October: No Collection available virtually: New online ordering system from October How best to order: Through the brands’ sales team, on the road now, or via new online system

Halo & Co Style: Marianne

Material: Oxidised silver headband with garnet and jet Swarovski crystals. Special features: Extra-wide metal band with a modern regal vibe. E: sales@haloandco.com W: haloandco.com Showing at Harrogate in October: No Collection is available virtually: Yes How best to order: Dedicated web portal in place that has all the new virtual requirements for buyers.

Paradox London Style: Hira Materials: Ivory satin Special features: Stunning vintage pearl and crystal embroidery over the toe Heel height: 8cm E: sales@paradoxlondon.com W: paradoxlondon.com Showing at Harrogate in October: No Collection available virtually? Yes How best to order: Only by phone or email

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A V E RY S P ECI A L O CCASI ON Bridesmaid, guest or mother of the bride or groom: Even the smallest of gatherings provide the perfect excuse to buy into the latest looks. We pick our favourites from the new collections, including prom wear, now that events are being rescheduled

Abbie Jade

Style: Katie Fabric: Heavy stretch crepe Special features: Iconic cape front with opulent wide sleeves E: info@abbie-jade.co.uk W:. abbie-jade.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: Yes Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

Veni Infantino

Style: 991513 Fabric: Chiffon and crepe Special features: Beading and 3D appliqué flowers E: enquiries@ronaldjoyce.com W: ronaldjoyce.com Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: Yes Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

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Only Way Bridesmaids

Style: Sweetheart Fabric: Silk-touch jersey Special features: Wrap Dress, one size fits all, Can be worn in reverse. 48 colours. E: chloe@only-way.uk W: chloe@only-way.uk Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: Yes Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

Carla Ruiz

Style: 96560 Fabric: Silk Special features: Edgy, statement-making detail, great design extras E: joannaedwardsagency@gmail.co.uk W: joannaedwardsagency.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: Yes Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes, or zoom call can be set up

Mark Lesley

Style: 1752 Fabric: Lace and chiffon Special features: Transparent bodice, beaded shoestring straps E: info@marklesley.co.uk W: marklesley.com Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: Yes Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

Lovely Bridesmaids

Style: Harlow, LB015 Fabric: Lux chiffon Special features: Bishop sleeve ruffled chiffon cutout maxi dress E: sales@dessy.com W: www.uk.dessy.com Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: retailerresponse.com Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

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Blue Moon By Romantica

Style: BM220 Fabric: Sequinned Special features: Plunge neckline. Ombre detail E: enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk W: romanticamedia.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: Yes, on request Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

Dessy Collection

Style: 6830 Fabric: Stretch charmeuse Special features: Popover bodice midi dress with draped tulip skirt E: sales@dessy.com W: uk.dessy.com Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: retailerresponse.com Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

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True Bridesmaids

Style: Hope, M457 Fabric: Chiffon Special features: Wraparound front pleated bodice, buttoned cuffs, split skirt. E: wendy@truebride.co.uk W: truebride.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: Yes, including video of catwalk show Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes, and virtual appointments also available

Colours by Kenneth Winston

Style: 5431 Fabric: Chiffon Special features: Keyhole back feature, front split E: contact@privatelabelbyg.com W: kennethwinston.com Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: On website and the retailer portal Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

Cameron Blake For Mon Cheri Luna by True Brides Style: 220645 Fabric: Embroidered tulle with stone accents and beading throughout Special features: Illusion high neck and back. The gown also features a matching shawl. E: sales@moncheri-bridals.co.uk W: moncheribridals.com/cameron-blake Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: Yes Will reps be visiting retailers: Contact rob@moncheri-bridals.co.uk

Style: Kayla Fabric: Chiffon or charmeuse Special features: One shoulder, pleat front bodice with hand-beaded appliqués E: wendy@truebride.co.uk W: truebride.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: Yes, including video of catwalk show Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes, and virtual appointments also available

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Essentials

Style: Jade, E221 Fabric: Chiffon Special features: Spaghetti straps, a floaty frill, and deep V at the back E: wendy@truebride.co.uk W: truebride.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: Yes, including video of catwalk show Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes, and virtual appointments also available

Promfrocks

Style: PF9714 Fabric: Jersey and lace Special features: Body-sculpting silhouettes, silver metallic lace motifs E: sales@promfrocks.co.uk W: promfrocks.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: Yes, and at private pop-up events Collection available virtually: New website updated by Harrogate Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

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John Charles

Style: 26798 Fabric: European crepe Special features: Flutter sleeve, draped neckline, peplum waterfall overskirt E: ferne@studioellis.co.uk W: johncharles.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: video footage of collection Will reps be visiting retailers: There is a stock holding of the SS20 collection available to order

Alfred Sung

Style: D787 Fabric: Satin Twill Special features: Bustier bodice trumpet gown with front slit E: sales@dessy.com W: uk.dessy.com Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: retailerresponse.com Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

Romantica Bridesmaids

Style: Asia Fabric: Sequinned Special features: Sequin bodice, fitted skirt, cowl back and thigh-high slit E: enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk W: romanticamedia.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: Yes, on request Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

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Invitations By Veni

Style: 29461 Fabric: Chiffon Special features: Beaded high collar and wrap belt E: enquiries@ronaldjoyce.com W: ronaldjoyce.com Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: Yes Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

Diamond Collection By Special Day

Style: D21333 Fabric: Chiffon Special features: Beaded waistband E: info@specialday-ireland.com W: specialday-ireland.com Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: Yes Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

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Mascara

Style: MC11932 Fabric: Tulle and glitter lace Special features: Embroidered bodice, red carpet glam E: info@marcaracollection.com W: marcaracollection.com Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: Yes Will reps be visiting retailers: Direct client relationships only

Prom By Romantica

Style: A205 Fabric: Tulle Special features: Off-the-shoulder neckline, tiered ruffle skirt E: enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk W: romanticamedia.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: On request Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

Kanali K

Style: 1756 Fabric: Chiffon Special features: Multi-way back to introduce different looks E: Contact@ukbridalimports.co.uk W: ukbridalimports.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: Yes Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

Special Day Prom

Style: P20708 Fabric: Lace Special features: Beaded detail on bodice and straps E: info@specialday-ireland.com W: specialday-ireland.com Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: On website Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

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Colour Nude

Style: 96560 Fabric: Jersey Special features: Luxury design at affordable prices E: joannaedwardsagency@gmail.co.uk W: joannaedwardsagency.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: On Colour Nude website Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes. Zoom presentations, too.

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2 Cute Prom

Style: 20227 Fabric: Glitter jersey and embroidery Special features: No plus size charges E: Contact@ukbridalimports.co.uk W: ukbridalimports.co.uk Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: Yes Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

Multiwraps by Eliza and Ethan Style: Multiwrap Fabric: Jersey Special features: One Size 8-20, 30 different colours, unlimited ways to wrap E: Info@minervadd.co.uk W: elizaandethan.com Showing at Harrogate: No Collection available virtually: Online ordering system Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

Christina Wu Occasions

Style: 22001 and 22011 Fabric: Ochre chiffon Special features: Two looks, two necklines, styles that work together E: info@eternitybridal.co.uk W: eternitybridal.com Showing at Harrogate: Yes Collection available virtually: Via dropbox Will reps be visiting retailers: Yes

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MR COOL Giorgio Armani changed fashion – and changed the minds of men all over the world

TIME LINE

In times of recession, fashion becomes less adventurous. Men eschew the more daring styles they might have purchased when their bank accounts were healthier. Dominic Bliss looks back… and forward

o what kind of wedding wear will men opt for this winter, as the economy inevitably stalls? To determine this, we need to look back over the fashions of the past century, back to the Great Depression of the 1930s, and all that followed on sartorially from that. Those inter-war years saw huge changes in suit tailoring, with wide, double-breasted jackets and widelegged trousers and sombre colours becoming the fashion, Although London’s Savile Row still dominated the more affluent end of the market, ready-made suits at last became an acceptable – and much cheaper – alternative. Previously unthinkable, men even started buying morning suits off the peg. Eric Musgrave is author of Sharp Suits: A Celebration of Men’s Tailoring. “In the UK a unique phenomenon before 1939 was the rapid growth in

the retail empires known as ‘multiple tailors’, led by Montague Burton, ‘The Tailor of Taste’,” he writes. “In 1904 he opened a shop as a ‘hosier and draper’ in Chesterfield, Derbyshire. Dressing lower-middle-class and working-class men, by 1939 he had built up a business that had 595 shops and, in Leeds, the largest men’s tailoring factory in the world. Estimates suggested Burton was clothing one-fifth of British men, with ready-made or made-tomeasure suits.” The outbreak of The Second World War in 1939 cut through the industry like a tailor’s shears. Fabric, destined for military uniforms, was at a premium. Few men had the opportunity – or the money – to sport anything but army green. Even after hostilities had ceased, styles still weren’t free to go demob happy. Suits became standardised

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and streamlined, partly in order to save fabric in those austere post-war years. The Teds have it But, by the 1950s, there was one group of British men who managed to push the envelope: the Teddy Boys. Although they were mostly young and working-class, it’s believed their distinctive jackets and trousers originated thanks to British Army Officers who, disapproving of the casual styles imported from the United States, asked their tailors to hark back to Edwardian times. With Britain’s economy improving, younger people found they had disposable cash in their pockets. The rag trade quickly responded. In 1957, a Scotsman called John Stephen opened his first clothing shop on Carnaby Street, a few hundred yards away from Savile Row,

THE TEDS Their style of dress was distinctive and original with a touch of Edwardiana

of taste. Nevertheless, the wide specifically catering for the recentlyshoulders, gargantuan lapels, tight invented teenager. waists, flared trousers and deep turnBy the beginning of the 1960s, ups – all combined with some very Kings Road, in Chelsea, became the unconventional colour palettes and epicentre of men’s (and women’s) a lot of polyester – wasn’t everyone’s fashion, further eroding Savile Row’s cup of tea. traditional influence on formalwear. By the middle of the decade, one Soon, Italian tailors, with their tighter, designer from Italy was causing narrower styles, were muscling in on seismic changes in men’s formalwear. the established British tailors. For the first time, the mass media of His name? Giorgio Armani. TV and cinema enabled designers to reach global markets through Gargantuan lapels, tight film stars, musicians and sporting celebrities. Men’s suits slimmed waists, flared trousers, down considerably, with trousers, unconventional colours and lapels and ties all narrowing. One could see the effect on the a lot of polyester – it wasn’t morning suits that nearly all men were choosing to get hitched in. everyone’s cup of tea Fully flared Then, late in the decade, the hippie movement suddenly changed everything. Energised by flower power, and influenced enormously by the Beatles, men’s suits went far out. For the first time ever, it was acceptable for British bridegrooms to marry in suits that weren’t of the traditional morning suits style. The 1970s is often labelled “the decade that taste forgot”. That of course depends on your sense

“His approach has probably had the largest single effect on men’s suits in the post-war era,” Musgrave writes. “Suddenly tailored clothes no longer followed the contours of the body; they were not fitted. While his approach was fashionable, the cachet of his name – and the price of his suits – meant that he quickly became the name of choice for many successful men.” Armani paved the way for European fashion houses to wield huge sartorial

influence all over the planet. When the 1980s arrived and the global economy boomed, suits became a symbol of power, like never before. In the City of London and on New York’s Wall Street, big guns in the financial industry espoused what they called the power suit. Just picture the strong, unsubtle (even crass?) look sported by Michael Douglas’s character Gordon Gekko in the 1987 movie Wall Street. (Even women started wearing masculine power suits.) It was around this

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Torre

Marc Wallace

Getting the message over... loud and clear Dessy purchased the longestablished US menswear brand After Six in 2010, buying into a company that was started by the Rudofker Family in 1903 and made its name by using famous faces in its advertising. That said, many of the messages would be considered politically incorrect today!

time that British bridegrooms, influenced by American fashion, first experimented with evening dress – rather than morning dress. GQ magazine summed up the era perfectly in a recent article. “Basically the more conspicuous one’s wealth, the better. Padded shoulders, suspenders, banker stripes, pinstripes, double-breasted jackets, pleats, and an affinity for hair gel were all hallmarks of the ‘Greed is good’ mentality.” Come the 1990s, the suit found itself threatened by the arrival of business casual dressing. Bridegrooms responded by occasionally choosing to wear lounge suits for their big day. GQ magazine again: “With less men than ever suiting up for work, an entire generation forgot all the fundamentals. The oversized silhouette of the 1980s stuck around, but minus the Wall Street swagger and sense of purpose. Pants were wide, but they just pooled around square-toed shoes. Ties were wide, but they were attached to billowing dress shirts and often featured cartoon characters and sports logos. Pleats were more popular than ever, but mostly to accommodate the expanding hips of Generation McDonalds and a misguided obsession with comfort.” Exactly how and when suits went skinny for the 21st century has been endlessly debated. But most observers agree that French designer

Tommy Nutter

Hedi Slimane, when he was creative director for Dior Homme in the early Noughties, was the catalyst. Men’s suits – including those they marry in – have been getting skinnier and tighter ever since. What of the future, then? Once this dreaded virus and the ensuing recession relax their grip, surely men will be a little daring again, just as they were after every other recession over the past hundred years? And when it comes to wedding suits, they can’t get any skinnier. The only way is outwards.

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It’s All About Stylus There is a lot to be said for writing instead of typing, and now you can write on a touch screen and see your scrawl translated into neat typescript before your eyes. Chris Partridge puts pencil to pad and says it is easy

Pencil – launched with the new iPad Pro earlier this year – particularly appealing. The new design mainly focuses on eliminating some of the more irritating features of the original unit, such as the way it had to be charged by plugging it into the iPad’s charging port. The new Pencil clips to the top edge of the iPad using magnets, and charges wirelessly when in that position, so it should be ready for use at all times. Another new feature is the ability to tap the Pencil to switch functions, so you can change from drawing a line to erasing, for example, with ease.

Quite remarkable Regular tablets have smooth glass screens with slippery surfaces that make controlling a stylus a bit awkward especially if you are writing. The reMarkable tablet, designed in Norway, has been strucured from the ground up to replicate the feel of pen on paper more exactly so you can throw away your trendy Red N’ Black uddenly, a raft of devices with notebooks and go digital without handwriting recognition built- having to change how you work. It has a plastic screen that is slightly in is hitting the market. roughened and a matched stylus that This autumn, the new really does feel as though you are version of Apple’s tablet operating system, iPadOS 14, will have a feature using a pen. However, the most immediately called Scribble that will enable you obvious difference between the to write with an Apple Pencil in any text box, which will then automatically reMarkable and regular tablets is that it is monochrome. No colour, transcribe it into typescript. Entering just black and white, because it new appointments, adding contact uses the same e-ink technology as details and many other form filling e-readers such as the Kindle. This has chores should become a lot easier. And if you use a Pencil for graphics, it many advantages, such as superlong battery life and clarity even will make adding text a doddle – no under direct sunlight, but it rules the more swapping to the keyboard to reMarkable out as an art tablet unless add a caption or slogan. black and white is your thing. Scribble will work with all versions The new reMarkable 2 also has of the Pencil, but will make the latest

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handwriting recognition courtesy of the cloud, so it will translate your scrawl into typescript in an instant, as long as you are connected to wifi. As a notebook replacement, the reMarkable 2 is a very attractive choice. Samsung has done a lot to make the handwriting recognition popular with its Galaxy Note smartphone, that holds a neat little stylus called the S-pen in its body. The new Galaxy Note 20 and its big sister the Note 20 Ultra, have a new stylus with a tip designed to replicate the feel of pencil on paper, and which is also able to control the phone by waving it like Harry Potter’s wand. You can even take selfies by pressing the stylus’s button. Handwriting recognition has always been standard on the Note series, and the software on the Note 20 is exceptional, with no latency between the pen and the line on the screen and very accurate transcription. Sound sense A great feature of the Note 20 is the ability to record audio while writing notes on the screen, so, for example, you can record interviews with clients while making handwritten notes, the notes being time-linked to the recording so you can locate passages of interest by tapping on the written note. Very powerful. Early styluses were by no means perfect, with a perceptible and very irritating delay before the line actually appeared, which made coordination difficult, and the screen’s inability to distinguish between the stylus and the user’s palm, so it had to be used in an awkward and tiring ‘hands-off’ way. The introduction of the active stylus with sensors that detect the pressure

it has a handy shortcut button that digital eraser as well as housing the on the tip and the angle it is being can be programmed to perform your charging port. held at, and which communicate most-used function. The Adonit Dash 3 for iPad and with the device by Bluetooth, pretty Android is a stylish stylus that looks much solved both problems as well APPS FOR STYLUSES as giving artists and calligraphers the like a pen, with a button on top to switch it on and automatically connect MyScript Nebo (iPadOS, Android and ability to control line width precisely Microsoft) by tilting the stylus or pressing harder. to the device, and a clip to secure it The ultimate note-taking app with in your top pocket. It works with most Recently there has been a wave handwriting recognition. Write of new third-party styluses for both Android and iOS The new third-party styluses aim to anywhere on the screen and the words will automatically devices that aim to do do everything traditional pens, appear in typescript in a box. everything traditional pens, You can then edit and rearrange brushes and pencils can brushes and pencils do and many the writing or the typescript, do and more, and many are add pictures and graphics, to as stylish but considerably a considerably cheaper that the create attractive notes in a very cheaper than the official official offerings intuitive way. offerings from the tablet makers. However, you need Brushes 4 (iPadOS) iPads and Android tablets. to take care to ensure that the stylus The app that David Hockney uses to Finally, the Wacom Bamboo you want is compatible with your create his iPad masterpieces. Simple Fineline for iPad and iPhone. Wacom particular tablet. but powerful, it uses layers to help is best known for its professional The Logitech Crayon for iPad Pro artists control the creative process. A graphics tablets, and it designed uses the technology of the Apple huge variety of brushes, pens, crayons Pencil (2nd generation) in a colourful, Samsung’s brilliant S-Pen range, so and so on are available and you can the Bamboo range of styluses have stylish and cheaper package. The even create your own. a great pedigree. It is switched on by oval shape means it will not roll off twisting the barrel of the device, and your desk and the top end acts as a INKredible (iPadOS and Android) Calligraphy for tablet users, it reproduces the way a pen creates a variable width line in an almost uncanny way. If you like to send handwritten notes rather than impersonal typing you can create a little artwork in INKredible and send it as an email.

APPLE PENCIL (2nd generation) WACOM BAMBOO FINELINE

THE NEW ReMARKABLE 2

ReMARKABLE 1602

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Money Talks

GOING LEGAL

Understandably in the current climate we have had many questions regarding cash flow controls and the best way of working with an accountant. Our finance expert, Michael Cahill of Albert Goodman looks at the key issues I am terrified about my everreducing turnover. What if I have problems with paying my rent? Is there any help I can get, or sensible way I should deal with my landlords? They are a fairly large company with many properties in my area – would they have something in place to help their tenants? I have spent a considerable amount on my shop over recent years and vastly improved the property. If I cannot see a clear way forward, I will have to walk away from my shop, my brides, and my suppliers. There are lots of business owners with the same concerns at the moment and the first thing to do is not to panic. The cashflow in a business is always crucial but now more than ever. If you haven’t already, I suggest you prepare a 13-week cashflow forecast and keep this rolling (ie after the first week, update week 1 for actual cashflow and add on a forecast for week 14) so that you always have at least 13 months visibility. Prepare it on a reasonable basis

but then flex it to look at different scenarios including a ‘dooms day’ scenario. This will help give you clarity on how long the business can run with minimal sales and identify at what point/s the business may run out of cash. There are then many things you can do to improve the cash position. Some of the options include: If it is the rent in particular you are concerned about, speak to your landlord and discuss your options with them. Each case is different but they may agree to a rent holiday or deferral; You can apply for additional funding from a Bounce Back Loan (BBL) or Coronavirus Business Interruption Loan Scheme (CBILS). Applications for a loan under the CBILS scheme must be made by 30 September and the Bounce Back Loan Scheme is open until 4 November. Further information on both schemes can be found at british-business-bank.co.uk/ Review your staffing requirements and continue to make use of flexible furlough under the Job Retention Scheme if you can which runs until 31

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October. If you are unable to make use of this, consider asking staff to work shorter weeks or accepting temporary pay reductions. If permanent staff reductions will be required you may need to consider redundancies. Consider what other liabilities can be deferred. HMRC has already granted self assessment tax payers an automatic extension so that their payments on account due in July 2020 are now payable in January 2021, and businesses were also able to defer their VAT liability from earlier in the year until next March. There was no automatic deferral for corporation tax or PAYE/NI liabilities but HMRC may agree a Time To Pay arrangement with you. Contact HMRC’s payment support service on 0300 200 3835 if you want to discuss your position with them. If you are eligible, claim the second Self Employment Income Support Scheme grant which could be worth up to £6,570. Check gov.uk/ guidance/claim-a-grant-throughthe-coronavirus-covid-19-selfemployment-income-supportscheme for details. Consider what you can do to maintain levels of turnover – perhaps your website needs updating or you need to improve your SEO? You may be able to apply for Kickstarter grant funding which is being made available through Regional Growth Hubs. I would also suggest you speak to your accountant if you are really concerned about your position. They will know you, your business, and possibly your wider situation and may

Get connected with the UK’s most exciting, passionate, new wedding personal when running your business industry magazine It’s a hard ask to be a leader and a friend, isn’t it? Avoid blurring the professional and the

As with your customers, you should always avoid

extreme crossing over of the two;

neither too bossy a boss, nor best

Trader Trader Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE ELEVEN • DECEMBER ’18

Survivial of the fittest WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE? OPINIONS, ADVICE AND HARD-HITTING FACTS

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE TWELVE • JANUARY ’19

Dressing with dash

PROU SUPPO DLY RTING BRITISH BRIDALWEA RETAILERS R

IS IT TIME TO RETHINK YOUR BUSINESS STRATEGY?

MEET ANNY LIN AND HER UNIQUE MIX OF FASHION FLAVOURS

Repeat performance

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION MAKING THE MOST OF WHERE YOU ARE

More winners

Do I need an accountant if I have to do all this self-assessment stuff? Whilst it is possible to deal with your self assessment yourself it won’t surprise you that it wouldn’t be something I’d recommend. A good accountant will help you maximise the claims for expenses and reliefs you can make in order to minimise your tax liability but, more importantly, should be talking to you about your wider personal position and future plans in order to help you in achieving those goals. As an example, I took on a new client in the middle of August. It was an individual starting their own business who had relocated to the South West and was using the money from the sale of a residential property to fund his venture. I have so far (ie within the first three weeks) advised him on the structure of the new entity; the split of ownership between him and his wife; how the funds to be invested in the new venture should be structured; how to get cash back out of the company in year one without crystallising an income tax liability; the VAT position on the work he will be undertaking; introducing him to various contacts in the sector he is going to be working in; making recommendations on bookkeeping software and the provision of training and advising him on what costs he will be able claim. Also, in our initial conversation he

mentioned the sale of a residential property which had only completed two weeks before. He was unaware of the 30-day Capital Gains Tax rules which came into effect from 6 April on the sale of a residential property – neither the solicitors or estate agents had mentioned this in the whole process – and after a few questions we established that he was obliged to submit a return to HMRC and pay an estimate of the capital gains tax due on the sale within 30 days of the sale completion. Failure to do this within the 30 days would have resulted in an automatic £100 fine, the risk of an additional fine of £10 per day between three and six months late, and £300 or 5% of the tax due had the return been more than six months late. The point about how he took money back out of the company in year 1 is important as if done in a less tax-efficient manner could have resulted in him and his wife paying capital gains tax at 28% on the gain on the sale of the residential property rather than the 18% achieved. The end result of the above? A capital gains tax saving of some £5,500, no income tax liability in year one (thus helping retain cash to be reinvested in the business), no penalties and a happy client!. Email your business finance questions to susi@rogol-goodkind.com for inclusion in the first available issue of Wedding Trader. If you’d like to consult directly with Michael Cahill for professional advice, email michael.

PROU SUPPO DLY

RTING BRITISH BRIDALWEA RETAILERS R

BLOG IT LEARN FROM THE ABSOLUTE BEST

Letter from America

New York

PETER GRIMES FROM VOWS JOINS THE WT TEAM

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be able to use this knowledge to offer some further ideas.

HAT TRICKS OUR PICK OF CROWNING GLORIES

HAIR VINES CHECK OUT OUR FAVOURITES

OUR GUIDE TO THE PRETTIEST PROM FROCKS

DISCUSSION: SHOULD YOU SHOW PRICES ON YOUR WEBSITE?

GET READY TO BUY THE BEST – WE TELL YOU WHERE AND WHEN

BEST SELLERS CHOSEN BY THE BEST

WHAT THE LATEST BUDGET MEANS TO YOUR BUSINESS

THE VALUE OF HAVING BIG NAMES ON BOARD

VALENTINE’S DAY WILL IT DELIVER A WAVE OF NEW BRIDES?

Show business

DOING IT ABROAD THE DESTNATIONS THAT ARE IN DEMAND

SAYING “I DO” AGAIN AND AGAIN JEWELLED HEELS... SIX OF THE ABSOLUTE SPARKLING BEST

FAMOUS FACES

ISSUE THIRTEEN • FEBRUARY ’19

Assessment

THE STARS AND THE SHOW STOPPERS

WEDDING

06/11/2018 09:56

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

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WEDDING

ISSUE 14 • MARCH/APRILWEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM ’19

Showtime BIG AND BOLD OR EXCLUSIVE AND INTIMATE... WHICH SHOW IS FOR YOU?

Justin & Savannah

INTRODUCING THE WHAT THE PERFECT COUPLE TRADE ASSOCIATIONS CAN DO FOR THEIR MEMBERS

DESIGNER SPEAK THE BRITPACK TALK ABOUT FORTHCOMING TRENDS

David’s Bridal

OH KNICKERS! WHAT GOES UNDER THAT BEAUTIFUL DRESS

ISSUE SIX • JULY ‘18

May I have a discount?

ADDING EXTRAS TO YOUR OFFERING THAT WILL PULL IN NEW BUSINESS

NOW IS THE TIME TO SAY NO

TAKING STOCK WANT IT QUICK? WE’VE FOUND THOSE WHO CAN DELIVER

BUILDING A LUXURY BRAND FIRST, GET YOUR PRIORITIES IN PLACE

Harrogate

SNEAK PEEK AT THE NEWEST TRENDS

Get togethers

ENTER THE NEW-AGE BOYS’ ZONE

Jenny Packham

07/01/2019 21:39

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

BLUSHING BRIDES OUR GUIDE TO THE BEST OF THE PINKS

GROOM SERVICE

BREXIT THE POSSIBLE POSITIVES FOR BRIDAL

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PROUDLY SUPPORTIN BRITISH G BRIDALWEA RETAILERS R

WINNERS! WHAT IT FELT LIKE ON THE BIG NIGHT

WILL ITS REPRIEVE HURT THE INDUSTRY?

04/12/2018 10:33

ISSUE TEN • NOVEMBER ’18

Changing the game plan

With mic in hand

WORKING WITH OTHER SERVICE SUPPLIERS

CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO ON BEING A ROYAL COMMENTATOR

Trader Trader Trader

AND WORKING WITH DESSY

WEDDING

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WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

SEEING RED

PROUDLY SUPPORTIN BRITISH G BRIDALWEA RETAILERS R

Our pick of the hot new numbers that everyone will want

Private i A BIG BITE OF APPLE SECURITY

JAMES BOND... KILLER GOOD LOOKS

White Gallery preview time

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WEDDING

05/03/2019 WT10 Cover 15:51 3aa.indd 1

ISSUE 19 • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

Doing something different RETAILERS MAKING THEIR MARK

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

SHARING OPINIONS, EXPERIENCES, VISIONS OF THE FUTURE

New chapters STARTING OVER IN THE BRIDAL BUSINESS

Brand awareness THE LABELS THAT MAKE A DIFFERENCE

11/06/2018 10:43

WEDDING

09/10/2018 13:40

ISSUE 20 • MARCH/APRIL ’20

I t’s buying time WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE BIG SHOWS

PROUDLY SUPPORT BRITISHING BRIDALW EAR RETAILERS

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

OPINIONS

RETAILERS’ SHARED FEELINGS, FEARS AND FORWARD THINKING

Well trained

GETTING READY FOR OPEN DOORS

ISSUE 21 • MAY/JUNE ’20

Coming together NOW WE ARE WORKING AS ONE

PROUDLY SUPPORT BRITISHING BRIDALW EAR RETAILERS

Looking ahead

WHAT THE TOP WEDDING PLANNERS ARE EXPECTING

THE NEW ‘NORM’ WHAT LIES IN STORE?

CHARGEBACKS... A WORD OF WARNING

BREXIT OKAY, SO WHAT HAPPENS NEXT?

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07/01/2020 18:47

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02/03/2020 16:14

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17/05/2020 14:10

TO WOR K WIT H U S, CONTACT: Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 0785 558 7219

Editor Susi Rogol susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Finally, it feels that the gap has been bridged and suppliers and retailers are all on the same page, working and talking together. Susi and the fabulous team have recognised this in abundance and created a monthly handbag explosion of fascinating insight, construction opinions, hints, tips and captivating reads. Truly inspirational! Jeanette Stevens, Managing Director, Enzoani Europe W ED D I N GTRAD ERMAG.CO M

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Brexit: Where do we stand? Fashion and the end of the Brexit transition period – Steve Sidkin of Fox Williams details the points to consider as we approach the all important 31 December 2020 date

ith just four months to run until the end of the Brexit transition period, fashion businesses need to prepare. With this in mind the publication last month by the European Commission of Getting Ready for Changes: Communication on Readiness at the end of the Transition Period between the EU and the UK is worth consideration. The Communication – /ec.europa. eu/info/sites/info/files/brexit_files/ info_site/com_2020_324_2_ communication_from_commission_ to_inst_en_0.pdf – provides a business sector by sector overview of the main areas where changes will arise irrespective of the outcome of current EU-UK trade negotiations. In respect of the overview, the sectors most likely to be of interest

to fashion businesses are those concerning • trade in goods • company and civil law • personal data • intellectual property rights

or EU rules in respect of certificates of origin and authorisations, labelling, and marking. On a practical level: importing from, for example, China, to a UK distribution centre and then from there to stockists in the EU will result Trade in Goods: With the exception of in the completing of paperwork and, trade between the EU and Northern in all likelihood, duties to be paid – by Ireland, the following changes will the UK exporter to the EU or by their apply to trade in goods and will affect EU customers. both goods going into retail for SS21 Attempts to avoid the implications as well as forward orders for AW21:: of importing from, say, China to the – The UK will no longer form part of UK and then from a UK warehouse the single market or customs union. to the EU by shipping direct to an Therefore, customs formalities will EU warehouse can be expected to be imposed on all goods travelling result in an increase in EU warehouse between the UK and the EU, even charges. if a free trade area is established Thought will need to be given as that provides for zero tariffs and to whether Incoterms used currently quotas. This will result in increased in contracts entered into by fashion administrative obligations and brands continue to be appropriate. potential delays in supply chains. EU businesses have been advised Trade between the EU and to familiarise themselves with Northern Ireland the formalities required for doing Northern Ireland represents the business with the UK as a third intersection of the venn diagram country. UK businesses would be of two unions – the union of the wise to follow suit where they will be United Kingdom and the union of the exporting to the EU. European Union. – Customs and taxation rules will This geographical fact, coupled apply to the import and export of with the political imperative of the goods. Any UK content will be treated maintenance of a so-called soft by EU businesses as ‘non-originating’ border between Northern Ireland and in the context of trade with EU the Republic of Ireland, has resulted in preferential partner countries. a protocol being annexed to the EU– Any goods placed on the market by UK Withdrawal Agreement. UK businesses in the EU will need to The protocol makes interesting comply with national Member State reading. But what stands out are that

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to oppose an import of goods from in exclusive choice of Court agreegoods will be able to move freely the UK to the EU if goods bearing ments concluded after the UK has without restriction from the Republic that mark have already been placed become party to the Convention. In of Ireland to Northern Ireland and on the UK market by the right holder then from Northern Ireland to the rest the meantime, the recognition and or with its consent, and vice versa. enforcement of UK judgments will of the United Kingdom. This is known as the principle of be governed by national rules of the In other words, goods coming into exhaustion of rights. But, after the relevant EU Member State. Northern Ireland from the Republic transition period, EU traders will As a consequence, UK businesses of Ireland will be in free circulation no longer be ably to rely upon this in dispute about a pre-1 January within the UK. principle when sourcing goods from 2021 contract will need to check that Given goods will be able to move the UK. any litigation commenced will be freely from the rest of the EU to the In addition, while EU Republic of Ireland and then intellectual property rights via Northern Ireland to the Fashion businesses that have not which are already in existence rest of the United Kingdom, will remain protected under it is possible to: a) See a already done so should urgently the Withdrawal Agreement, situation where sending goods from the EU into the consider how they may be affected if any new EU intellectual property rights will have more UK via the Republic of Ireland they import from or export to the EU limited territorial scope as and Northern Ireland may they will no longer have effect outweigh the extra transport in the UK. As such, corresponding UK undertaken in the English, Scottish, and administrative costs of shipping intellectual property rights will need or Northern Irish courts or whether across the English Channel from to be sought. France or Belgium and b) Ask whether prospective defendants will seek After the transition period, to start actions in the courts of their the open border between Northern respective Member States in order to any businesses which are not Ireland and the Republic of Ireland escape their contractual obligations . established in the EEA will no will result in an increase in grey mark longer be able to register or own .eu and counterfeit products entering domain names. If such businesses Data Transfers the UK which in turn will increase After the transition period, the UK will or individuals cannot demonstrate the workload of the brand protection be classed as a third country and the their continued eligibility at the end teams of many UK fashion brands. of the transition period, their domain GDPR’s rules on data transfers will However, the above do not apply names will be withdrawn. in reverse; UK businesses selling into apply to personal data transferred from the EU to the UK. Northern Ireland will face an uneven The EU has stated that it playing field. will endeavour to conclude its assessment of the UK regime by the Contractual Jurisdiction Clauses end of 2020, with a view to adopting Currently, any judgments handed Free trade agreement or not, an adequacy decision to allow down by UK Courts are enforceable the end of the current transition free movement of personal data to in the EU, and commercial contracts period will see changes to what continue without interruption. often provide that the UK Courts are has been the norm for decades. However, if no adequacy decision to determine disputes in the event of These changes will affect every is reached by the end of the transition (that is, have jurisdiction for) litigation part of the supply chain from but after the current transition period period, businesses will need to design to retail sale. consider utilising standard contractual ends, EU treaties which provide for Fashion businesses that have clauses to ensure compliance of any EU-UK cross border recognition and not already done so should personal data transfers to the UK. enforcement of judgments will no urgently consider how they may The UK Data Protection Act will longer apply. be affected if they import from or confer adequacy on EU Member States The UK plans to become a export to the EU. until the end of 2024 for any transfer of signatory to the Hague Convention Finally, as a matter of English personal data from the UK to the EU. in its own right at the end of the contract law it is unlikely that transition period. However, The reliance on force majeure will Intellectual property European Commission’s view is be possible in order to escape Currently, the owner of an intellectual that the Convention will only apply contractual obligations at any property right (for example, an EU to recognition and enforcement of point of the supply chain. trade mark) cannot rely upon its mark judgments by the Courts specified

IMPORTANT POINTS

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F IND YOUR

DREAM DRESS

MOST VIEWED… BRIDAL DRESS IVY BY CASABLANCA BRIDAL This delicately embellished dress is perfect for the Spring/Summer season. Brides are loving the light lace appliqué overlay and the stunning silhouette it creates.

Most searched for... WHAT YOU R BRI DES A R E SHOPPING FOR O N LI N E We look at what trends brides are searching for this month on findyourdreamdress.co.uk MOST READ… BLOG FEATURE 7 BEAUTIFUL MERMAID WEDDING DRESSES No big surprise that this popular shape has also drawn a lot of attention to the FYD blog post dedicated to it! FYD brides want to flaunt their figures in 2021, and many designers have already tapped into this trend with their latest collections.

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WHAT IS FIND YOUR DREAM DRESS? Brides-to-be can use this super-helpful website that allows them to filter various categories in order to find their dream dress in among FYDD’s database. Then, the site tells the brides where the nearest boutique is that stocks the dress of their choice. If you’re a designer and you’d like to see your collection of gowns featured here, or if you’re a boutique owner who would love to have your business included in the search results, then visit findyourdreamdress.co.uk to discover more. Alternatively, drop Raymond an email at ray@meanttobemedia.com.

MOST SEARCHEDFOR… DESIGNER ÉTOILE BY ELYSEE A stunning collection from bridal newcomer, Elysee, these gowns are stealing the limelight right now. A versatile collection full of incredible, luxurious materials and embellishments, and structures to enhance the feminine figure.

MOST SEARCHEDFOR… DRESS SHAPE MERMAID/FISHTAIL Evenly contested, fishtails and mermaid skirts have been top choice. Brides want the figure fitting shape complete with a final flourish below the hips. This Delilah design from Badgley Mischka is a great example.

MOST VIEWED… PLUS-SIZE DRESS STYLE W443 BY ALLURE BRIDALS Retaining their crown as one of the most popular plus-size collections around, this beauty from Allure is once again hotly searched for on the FYD site.

MOST VIEWED… BRIDESMAID DRESS CORA BY DESSY This gorgeous gown from the Thread Bridal collection from Dessy has had loads of attention recently. Simple, sophisticated design that can suit any wedding theme.

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“I have been more than suprised to find that the majority of our brides are incredibly easy to deal with now and I think they are feeling better able to make their own decisions without a bunch of friends who all have different – and often bullying – opinions. I am now tempted, if and when there is greater freedom, to restrict numbers as an ongoing policy. Two friends and a mum would seem to be the perfect balance. Have other shops found the restrictions are actually resulting in better-controlled appointments?”

DIANE HASSALL

“I’ve always been one to keep to myself. Of course I discuss things with my small team, but I have never gone out and shared my thoughts – and fears – until now. And I have to say it has made a really big difference to me – not only do I find I have made new friends within the retailing community, but I have been able to talk quite openly about my concerns and finding they are shared has been reassuring. This has spurred me on and through talking to others in the business, I have also discovered labels that are new to me. Hearing about suppliers who have been supportive at this difficult time will shape my business in the future, without question. One new friend said to me ‘Stop thinking about what’s happening now as an obstacle to success, think of it as a challenge.’ And that’s exactly what’s fashioning my attitude now.”

“Who’d have thought that one day we’d be making contact with colleagues on our laptops? I used to think that the big trade shows were the only place for collective catch-ups, but now thanks to Zoom and Teams etc

...and finally What’s the word on the street? We’ve rounded up who’s been saying what, whether it’s about Wedding Trader or the industry in general

“If someone had told me a year ago that charging for all appointments, regardless of the day of the week, would be anything other than a great big negative, I wouldn’t have believed them. But I took Maria Musgrove’s suggestion in the last issue of Trader, bit my nails, and surprise surprise, not one single complaint from those making appointments and best of all – not a single ‘no-show’ in the diary. Thanks Maria, that was a great piece of advice.”

there’s a new world out there, bringing a whole group of people together at one time. Though remembering to put your hand up when you want to speak is vital, otherwise it’s chaos!”

“What is going on? We have never been busier with appointments, we are finding more brides saying yes earlier (some – just a few – even on first appointment), no quibbling about price, no requests for free accessories. I feel we are out from under a big business cloud. Who knows if this will last? That said, I will enjoy it while it does. Fingers crossed, it’s the new norm!”

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LOVE IS IN THE AIR Steam doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just care for fashion as it smooths creases and restores shape, it actually helps to kill bacteria and remove odours fast â&#x20AC;&#x201C; without damaging soft fibres or delicate materials. So be gentle on fabrics, tough on germs, and love what you wear for longer with a Propress Steamer. Visit or new website www.propress.co.uk

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