Wedding Trader - issue 34

Advice from the experts

TOP TIPS FROM TOP NAMES ON BUYING, TRAINING AND ENTERING AWARDS

HERE FOR THE GREAT BRIDALWEAR

COLLECTIONS TO SEE, WHERE AND WHEN THIS SEASON

NECKLINES ARE THE BIG STORY

WHAT THEY REALLY THINK ABOUT RETAILERS AND THEIR SERVICE

BRITISH BY DESIGN

‘40 Years of Love’

We will be launching our stunning new Romantica bridal collection over the coming weeks while we celebrate our 40th anniversary. For more information about becoming a stockist, please email: sales@ romanticaofdevon.co.uk

WWW.ROMANTICAOFDEVON.CO.UK

Ed’s Letter W

ith every issue comes a mailbag full of questions, answers and strongly-worded opinions from those who are passionate about this industry and want to see everyone connected with it performing to their best. To many, that’s not easy – and least not all of the time – and that is evident in this month’s issue in viewpoint pieces from key names in the business. Be kind, be supportive, and also be firm, those are the messages that need to be shared, whether you are a retailer running a bridalwear salon, a designer or manufacturer selling your collection into your network of stockists, or an exhibition organiser looking to bring in the big names. Everyone works in their own way and has their own sense of style. What is shared is the desire to succeed and to develop their business interests.

As the show season revs up the engines and gets ready to fly, we should all plan to take the time while visiting those chosen trade events to catch up with colleagues, to make new friends, to exchange ideas and, above all, to listen when someone wants to discuss any concerns they might have. Within this small, tight-knit industry of ours, we can benefit from extending support where needed because that’s exactly what we would appreciate if we were the one with concerns.

Enjoy this issue and the information we have gathered together for you. Enjoy the opinions voiced, even if they are harsh at times. Enjoy your buying time, wherever the destination.

Andy Allen Art Director

“When you look at how data is gathered and assessed it makes you think really hard.” (p97)

Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding

“The heritage names in the business are those who really understand their audience.” (p76 onwards)

Martha Cooke Head of Ad sales

“Advice on buying from key names in the industry must really help others –especially newcomers.” (p18, 20, 94)

Wedding Trader magazine is an online magazine read by the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is the trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

To make an appointment to view the new collections, please contact: Michelle Blackburn: 07935 156275 | michelle@casablancabridal.eu

Shoes,

Sparkling extras

HALO & CO LAUNCHES A NEW LABEL

PERLA embraces the core ethos of the Halo & Co couture line but has more of an entry-level price point for shops and brides working to a controlled budget. The 40-piece collection includes floral themes, 3D porcelain flowers and elegant crystal vines alongside minimal modern headbands. All design and development is done in-house so everything is unique to the brand.

Says Nicola Ball; “With most suppliers having price increases at a time when costs of running a business seem to be getting higher and higher, we wanted to be able to support stores with accessories at great prices (they start at just £20, offering a healthy markup). These styles are exclusive to us and therefore exclusive for our retailers. Coupled with our 25 years of knowledge of the industry we offer support and customer care that has stood the test of time.”

Styles will be kept in stock to offer a speedy delivery service another great reason to visit Halo & Co at White Gallery London. www. haloandco.com

Textile Forum new dates

The organisers of London’s luxury fashion fabric fair have moved its event to 21-22 March 2023 at One Marylebone to avoid clashing with the planned transport strikes.

“We are delighted that all our exhibitors are supportive of the date change and more suppliers will be joining us as the later date works better for them,” explains event director Amy Packham. “Visitors who have already registered for the event will not need to re-register.”

Textile Forum will be presenting leading British and overseas fabric suppliers whose minimums are as low as one metre, and are able to deliver fast as collections are mainly held in stock.

Apart from fabrics and trimmings, embroiderers and packaging specialists, there will be a group of UK garment manufacturers offering sampling and pattern making as well as development and CMT services. Among the exhibitors will be Laurent Garigue, Michael’s Bridal Fabrics, Pongees, Partap, Henry Bertrand, Cluny Lace, G H Leathers, Marvic Fabrics, Junior Hagen, The National Weaving Company,  Bennett Silks, The London Embroidery Studio and Bellwoven. First time participants include Denholme Velvets, Bute Fabrics and Modern Star Silks.

www.textileforum.org.uk

BARCELONA ANNOUNCES ITS CATWALK PERFORMERS

The catwalk at Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week (BBFW) will be the magnet for visiting buyers and the media, 19–22 April, when it will host 33 leading design houses and the launch of nine brands. The unique format of the Barcelona event encompasses the fashion catwalks and the key trade fair, 21–23 April.

Among the top Spanish houses that have confirmed their presence this year are Jesús Peiró; Rosa Clarà; Atelier Pronovias; Nicole Milano; Isabel Sanchis; Sophie et Voilà; Yolancris; Marco & María; and Ramón Sanjurjo. Also participating for the first time will be design firms from the Canary Islands: Ogadenia Couture, Pedro Palmas and Lucas Balboa.

New brands on display this year at BBFW will be Lorena Formoso, from Galicia; Joli Poli, from Vietnam; Wona Concept & Eva Lendel from

Ukraine; Madeline, from the US and the Canadian Ines Di Santo.

Major international designers have once again chosen the Barcelona event as a launchpad for their creations, such as Cymbeline, from France; the Polish designer Agnieszka Swiatly; Marylise & Rembo Styling and Carta Branca, both from Belgium; The Atelier Couture by Prof. Jimmy Choo, from Malaysia; Julia Kontogruni, from Bulgaria; Demetrios, from Italy; Carlo Pignatelli, also from Italy; Modeca, from the Netherlands, and Katy Corso, from Ukraine.

The Spanish designers Andrea Lalanza and Mireia Balaguer, the Italians Poesie Sposa and More, and the Italian-German Riccardo Serravalle will feature in the fashion catwalk of young talents.

www: barcelonabridalweek.com

THE BEST PLACE FOR OCCASIONWEAR

This February show is now a major player with the largest collection of womenswear brands under one roof, and that includes a substantial number of occasionwear collections.

Buyers came from all over the country, as far North as Orkney Island and from Devon in the South. Irish shops flocked into Leeds Airport – only a short taxi ride from Harrogate – and most were there for the full two days to make the most of their trip.

Organisers Wendy Adams and Sarah Moody were thrilled with the comments from both buyers and exhibitors, and have announced that the next show has been extended to three days due to demand. “The growth of the show is the main reason for extending to three days,” Sarah said. “Newcomers this season included Red & Royal, Brenda Zaro, Patricia Eve, EMIS, Via Venito, Bella Premium and we have already received new enquiries from brands such as Fely Campo, Teresa

Ripoli, Eliza Jane Howell and Carmen Melero. We have confirmed re-bookings of just over 85% from this show.

Pennita from Pennita, Helmsley commented: “We could go elsewhere but why? The extra day next season will make the buying experience more relaxed and enjoyable. It will allow me to spend a little more time with each brand and not feel rushed. I love the show.”

Occasionwear brands who are big supporters of HFW include Isabella, Veromia, Irresistible, John Charles, Kevan Jon, Gabriella Sanchez, Carla Ruiz, Luis Civit, Frank Lyman, Coco Doll and Lotus Shoes. Many of them commented how they love the atmosphere in the venue, the additional extras the organisers offer and the friendly personal service given. They feel valued, which is important when investing time and money in a show.

Put the dates for the next show in your diary now: 30 July–1 August 2023.

www.harrogatefashionweek.com

/ 01423 623701

“We had a very successful HFW with our brands Carla Ruiz, Arggido and Qui Privé. The AW shows are generally quieter for occasionwear but we were thrilled to open a lot of new accounts, and the show is in a great location for us to see our Northern customers who do not travel to London.  Key trends for us are pretty floral prints and bursts of colour, including rusts and reds with rich blues and greens. There’s a real emphasis on textures and luxurious fabrics.”

Joanna Edwards, Joanna Edwards

“Customers were very happy with all our collections, Dressed Up, Veromia Occasions and Irresistible.  The show itself is compact and easy to negotiate and customers love the buzz of Harrogate town. With the show extending to three days for SS24, it is bound to be one of the leading shows in the county. Buyers were definitely looking for soft silhouettes and less structured shapes. Prints are still a key trend, too.”

Avril Forbes, Veromia

“I would say HFW is now the only show worth attending for the occasionwear industry. Wendy Adams and Sarah Moody have done a great job and we have seen the show go from strength to strength.”

James Ellis, John Charles

“Our best sellers were Gabriela Sanchez, from Madrid, with stunning dresses with shoulder detail in organza. And from Ireland, Avalon and its Via Veneto collection: the amazing trouser suits proved to be real winners. And Coco Doll, with stunning printed dresses in wonderful colours.”

Mandy Barr, Mandy Barr Fashions

First Person

A question from Laura Daly: When was the last time anyone asked you, as a business owner, how you were doing? And when was the last time you asked the same to your staff?

Idon’t mean in a ‘how’s business?’ kind of way, I mean in a real, person-to-person, ‘how are you feeling; what keeps you awake at night; are you still enjoying being your own boss?’ kind of way.

If you’re lucky, you’ll have a bridal buddy, a partner, or a good friend totally unrelated to your business who cares and understands enough not only to ask

such questions, but also to listen to your answers. It’s hard though, isn’t it, when you’re trying to explain to someone outside of our very particular industry, how a difficult customer has made you feel, or how a late delivery has given you sleepless nights. An outsider, however well-intentioned, with no bridal experience to draw on, often struggles to understand the impossible task of switching off from it all when you lock the place up at night.

It’s often easier to put on a brave face and say how great things are and that you’re loving it all – because exposing how your job is really affecting you could be an admission of failure, or weakness, and they are both places that are very hard to go without feeling like you’re heading to spiral into a full-on breakdown from which you may never return!

To some degree, I suppose you could say it’s your own

Laura Daly Owner of Bellissima Weddings in Chelmsford

silly fault for having opened a bridal business. No one ever said it was going to be easy. As it turns out, there’s a very good reason for that! It’s true, via various groups and associations, there is a degree of support available, albeit in a superficial manner, and there are places to share the load and exchange stories, but ultimately, we’re each on our own.

So, hold that thought of helplessness, of not being sure what to do next, of being scared to mis-step with a customer, of never feeling truly heard, and then transfer it onto the shoulders of your staff.

As their employer, it’s so easy to fall into the mindset of “well, it’s their job, I pay them to do it and, when they go home, they can switch off”. All of that is at least partially true, but I’m sure you’ll agree that any stylist, seamstress, fitter or receptionist who is good at their job finds it just as hard to ‘leave it all at the door’ as you do.

Staff matters

If, as a business owner, you know how reassuring it is to have someone to check in on you, then you can begin to realise just how important it is for you to check in regularly with your employees. And, the fewer staff you have, the harder it will be for them to speak their truth unprompted, as the closer they will be working with you.

Ignoring their need for understanding, before they reach out and ask for it, eventually results in an unmotivated team and ultimately high staff turnover. Don’t leave checking in until your annual performance review, this is something that needs to be done on a much more frequent basis, and your questions need to be open, not closed.

Also, remember, it’s not only the newest or youngest team member who needs it - from time to time, everyone does - and, if you get into the habit of doing a daily check-in with whoever is working that day, you’ll soon get to see what really affects them all individually, and you can be that person from whom they get support, or encouragement, or positivity, and hopefully you can be the one who gives them the tools they need to get back on track.

It will take some effort and thought on your part and you’ll need to be asking specific check-in questions. If you simply ask: “How are things going with you - are you enjoying your job?” I can almost hear the answer from here – it’s most likely going to be something like “Oh, I love it, thank you, everything’s fine”.

As an employee, the fear of showing weakness or vulnerability to your boss is real, so you’re going to have to work harder if you genuinely want to help!

Keep these in mind

Check-in questions that work better would be along the lines of:

What are you most looking forward to today?

or What are you most dreading today?

or Is anything overwhelming or confusing you?

It may be helpful to offer some of your own thoughts or feelings but always remember the point of doing so is purely to encourage them to talk - it’s not about you!

Basically, it tends to work best if you can ask one question that may have a negative answer (Is there anything in your role that worries you?) and one looking for a positive response (What would brighten your day at work?).

Make sure you really listen to the answers. You might be surprised at how much you’ll learn. You may even be able to make a difference to someone’s daily life or the way they feel about work. Be the boss who listens. Be the boss who cares. Be the boss who makes a difference.

“Be the boss who listens. Be the boss who cares. Be the boss who makes a difference.”

Second Opinion

Sue Lovell on the start of a new buying season.

To spree or not to spree, now that is the question

Is that spring I hear? I truly think so. I swear I heard the sound of the snowdrops pushing up the frozen soil with their strong little shoulders this morning, and taking in a deep, loud and gulping breath. I definitely heard the sound of the foxes preparing for their nights of passion. The squirrels, deer, bunnies and wallabies (my husband swears he has seen one, if not, then he came face to face with a 4ft rabbit) are all starting to spring into action.

New life, new opportunities and fresh starts, new loves and new arrivals are what spring is all about. We

clean out, clear out, blow away the cobwebs and take stock and make plans at this time of year. But what else is a sure sign that spring is on the way? It’s the countless emails in the inbox inviting us all to Bridal Week.

So, while the world of nature is smooching to Barry White, and bucks are whispering words of love into the ears of a wide eyed doe, So, too will we be called upon to get out of hibernation, to mingle, and to fall in love with new brands, rekindle the love with existing suppliers and be seduced by all that is wonderful in the world of bridal. Let’s get it on!

Sue Lovell Owner of Susan Nicholas Opulent Bridal, Cambridgeshire

It is so easy to be swept away in all the excitement, prosecco and flattery, but buy we must, as these industry wheels need to keep turning. Brides need to see new stock, new arrivals, and need to know we are following and stocking the latest bridal trends and staying fresh.

However, costs are ever increasing, and quite frankly we are in terrifying economic times, so we need to buy well, and buy smart.

Plan ahead

So now is the time to go through our rails, our spread sheets and reports, and make sure we know where the gaps in our offerings are, and look to fill them, plus where we have too much invested for poor return, it may be time to say goodbye. Time should be spent investigating thoroughly as to what it is that brings brides and money through the doors, and to earmark the funds now to increase the potential of both.

If you spend time before you visit the upcoming shows to really look at your stock and sales reports, you can arm yourself with all you need to buy well. Sizes are important – are you missing out on sales because you don’t have enough dresses in particular sizes, or have you invested in a size range that has not performed well? Why is that? Is it price, do you market to that demographic, do people know you are the shop to come to for that size of dress? Do you know what new brides are looking for? It is often worth popping up a poll asking your followers to vote on different styles of gown. It engages them and keeps you focused on what your customers like, and not just indulging in your own tastes.

Business sense first

The supplier/stockist relationship is a tricky one, but very similar to the retailer/customer dynamic. We buy from people we like, not just because they represent the brands we love, so the relationship with the rep is an important one. I invested in a supplier at Harrogate purely

because I have a good relationship with someone who moved over to work for them. I knew deep in my heart that it wasn’t the product for me, but I wanted to show support, be loyal and give it a chance. Perhaps, I told myself, I was wrong in the past and I was missing out on stocking their items. Well, it turns out I wasn’t, and it has been a complete fail-up (disclosure: some words may have been changed to protect you from offence, but you know what I really mean.) The products have arrived and they are not well presented, packaged or in fact very good at all. I have no one else to blame, I placed the order based on personality not product, and despite my own misgiving!

I signed my name on the dotted line. A lesson learned, one I already knew, and although I have not sold the items, I have either given them away for free or used them as props for shows etc., it was a mistake that I have to own up to, one I will not be making again. A good dress deserves good quality accessories, I know that, we all do, but I fooled myself into thinking the quality was going to be better than it actually was. In this case a fool and her money were easily parted, and I couldn’t even blame the Prosecco; they didn’t offer me as much as a wine gum.

“Time is money, and right now we need to all spend both very wisely.”

So, what do you do when you know you have made a mistake when ordering? Firstly, try not put yourself in that position. I have been with shop owners in the past who have told me they have no intention of buying a new collection as they do not have the funds, and yet later on that day they have told me they have had a bottle of plonk on a stand, and spent a couple of hours ‘buying’, the idea being that they will cancel a week or so later, or just not pay the proforma.

That is the equivalent of a customer and her party booking an extra long appointment, trying every dress on in the store, saying “yes’ to the dress, and then going for a “coffee to speak to Dad’, never to be seen again. You see later she has posted that she already has her dress second hand, she just wanted the ‘experience’. That time could have been used on another customer who did actually want to buy. Especially when territories and areas are important to us all, and a potential new account may be turned away because an existing one is supposedly buying.

Righting wrongs

However, we can all look, see what we would buy and then compare it to another label to see which is better, which numbers stack up. Sometimes, it is a case of who has the better payment terms rather than the better collection. But whatever the reason, there is a huge difference between shopping around, weighing up all the options and deliberately wasting someone’s time. We have all done it, waking up the next morning full of regret and wishing we had held off because we saw something better later on.

So, my advice is don’t be too impulsive, look around, have a clear head, and be open to new relationships. Just don’t lead someone on, because

your large order that you want to now cancel may have stopped another shop getting a brand they would have done very well with. These wheels need to keep turning, whatever side of the fence we are on.

On the same point though, sometimes a relationship has run its course, but that doesn’t have to mean it is over forever. We are not married to a label; we can look around, try out another one or two, and if it is not right then look at returning at a later date. Many a successful and committed relationship in real life was rekindled after both parties shopped around a little bit in the pastthe emphasis here being on both parties understanding the situation. No one likes to find out they were put on hold, kept in the dark, whilst the other party looked to try out pastures new.

If you do think you have made a mistake, go back to the stand, or contact the rep as soon as possible, especially if it is over cash flow worries. See if they will negotiate better terms, if not it is better to cancel quickly than get into financial peril later.

Time is money, and right now we need to all spend both very wisely.

I am very much looking forward to the upcoming shows. I had Rome earmarked as a buying destination, but it appears that my travelling companion may have had a better offer to go there with more romantic intentions and a love interest, rather than on a much more fun trip with me! She most definitely is going to miss out, but I have to accept that he can put a very different spring in her step compared to me.

And so you’ll see me in London. I could go to Rome alone, but after a long winter, I need the laughter and someone with a sensible head on their shoulders to accompany me, to make sure I stick to the plan. I have to be focused and ruthless, not a fizz-induced lighthead and easily swayed… that was so last season!

Now About Your Awards Entry…

Everyone in every field wants to be recognised by their industry, their colleagues, their competition and most of all, by their customers. An awards title is a prized possession which speaks volumes, so getting your entry right is serious business. Multi-winner and now judge, Laura Daly, shares her knowledge

For the last three years, I’ve been in the very fortunate position of being on the panel of judges for the Bridal Retailer category of The Wedding Industry Awards.

Having previously had the great honour of winning that particular title more than once, I now get to take on the huge responsibility of ensuring I’m judging all entries fairly and objectively instead of the daunting task of

completing my own submission.

So, is there a formula that will get your entry noticed for all the right reasons? I can’t speak for any other judges, of course, but, as far as I’m concerned, there are certainly a few things worth bearing in mind.

Firstly, please keep it truthful! Throw a spotlight on all the things you know you do that make your business different to any other. Don’t be shy – sing it from the

rooftops - but just make sure you can support and clearly demonstrate all your claims. Show me the love you have for your business, what makes it tick and why you believe you’re the best.

Don’t make false claims. Don’t say you offer a full alterations service if you don’t, or if you simply hand your brides a list of seamstresses... Believe it or not, it happens.

If you don’t change your windows more than four times a year, or you change them every day, Just be honest about it. The position of your business will play a big part in this, so explain your reasons and thought process.

If there is a limit to how many words should be written in each answer, don’t go beyond it, but do make the most of it and use it to the full. Don’t fall into the trap that no limit is a green light to the longest essay in the world, or that one-word answers are the way to go.

Don’t say you “go the extra mile” without explaining exactly what it is you do that’s special. These days, excellent customer service, beautiful décor, happy customers, and great dresses are basic minimums. So, please don’t tell me one of those things is your unique selling point!

To me, any social media should be a window into your world. Whatever you’re showcasing on these platforms actually needs to be matched in real life. If you’re selling yourself as a fun place on your socials, and then answer the phone like someone’s just died, that’s a big red flag right there!

Contact details, opening hours and phone numbers need to be up-to-date and easily accessed by customers,

not hidden away on page 83 of a creaky website.

If I land on your home page and then can’t work out how to call you, or what hours you’re open, or what labels you stock, then that’s not a particularly good start!

Accompany your entry with professional photographs and videos of your shop. Show it at its very best, inside and out. Look closely at what you’re submitting. I’ve seen pictures that look beautiful at first glance only to spy in a corner, or reflected in a mirror, an overflowing waste paper basket, or a dress half off the hanger, and even a threadbare seat. So, take time to scrutinise every last detail and look at everything with a critical eye.

In summary, show me you! Blow your own trumpet loudly and proudly, but please make sure you’re playing your own tune, not somebody else’s.

Be sincere. Integrity matters. Take time to write your answers, read and re-read them, and when you’re truly happy with your entry – then and only then – press send. Good luck!

Visit www.the-wedding-industry-awards.co.uk/about-theawards/register-for-the-next-awards for details of the 2024 programme

“Don’t say you “go the extra mile” without explaining exactly what it is you do that’s special..”

WORTH JOINING

Alison Parish of Aurora Bride in Sutton is on the RBA Committee and sings the praises of the value of membership

Don’t worry, I’m not high, but I will admit to being a little bit pumped up recently. I’d just finished a training session at work with the team and for the first time in a while I was a little optimistic.

Early January, hosted by the RBA, I participated in a luxury selling training and workshop day. This is the training I have fully ripped off and just this morning finished regurgitating it with/at my staff. I took some time to fully digest it and gave it a bit of an Aurora rejiggle, but for the first time in a while we had a really positive and enjoyable training meeting. I even did a role play, which I usually hate, but we did it and it was fun. It wasn’t a practice sale or anything – I’m not that pumped up – but I actually did a workshop training cheat sheet from the course and it went well.

Advice from the experts

It was such a beneficial event – learning from leading industry specialists about how to sell luxury goods, as well as the benefits of mystery shopping and upselling techniques. It’s amazing what you pick up even by osmosis at these training days – little nuggets that sit with you until you find yourself on a late night on Wednesday in an appointment going stale and pluck them out of your subconscious. As a result, you’re in an upsell scenario, with the bride with a £1,400 budget going for a £2,799 sale and tag on of a £520 veil – proof that this stuff really works!

I hear it a lot at training day that not every style of training works on a ‘British bride’, but actually it’s more how you use and adapt these insights rather than exactly replicating them in store. I still get embarrassed the first few times I try things out, feeling as if I’m tricking a bride by trying to ‘sell her a dream’. I’ve had to shift my brain out

of thinking I’m stealing her money to reminding myself I’m giving her life memories and helping her make the most of her wedding. It’s a hard shift to make – for me, anyway. Yes, I might be getting something out of our transaction, but it’s much more than that for her, and I had forgotten that recently.

What’s on offer

In an attempt to make the best and brightest in British bridal better, the RBA is starting to offer these specialist training events more often now. As a member of the committee, I can personally see their worth. Especially when you research your trainers and engage those who are hot on the newest tech and ideas.

As well as the recent luxe selling programme, we’ve offered social media and website marketing training. And we also have our discounted Wendy Rivera (DYSB) One Stream subscription offer which runs alongside our free quarterly training sessions on zoom with bridal specialist Wendy herself. We had asked RBA members what they would like to focus on each quarter and Wendy tailors the training for us so that everyone gets what they want, when they want it.

As previously said, I know you can’t always take 100% of everything home with you to fit your own vibe, but I’m learning more and more from the sessions themselves, and the women and men I share them with, just how beneficial it is when building your team. Knowledge is power, I’ve come to realise.

It’s these sorts of events that really inspire me to get back into bridal myself and enjoy it. It’s been a hard few years, what with the pandemic and the cost of living crisis. On top of that, if you have kids who haven’t spent the past five months without a bug or cold that won’t quit it and shares its fabulous array of symptoms with

“There’s the bonus of learning from specialists about how to sell luxury goods, as well as the benefits of mystery shopping and upselling techniques”

the whole family, then you are just plain winning at life. Winter has been a drag!

Looking forward

And yet today I find myself checking in with the RBA WhatsApp group and listening to experienced leaders in their field sharing wisdom and updates and feeling rather optimistic about the months ahead.

At the RBA, we are striving to make this industry better as a whole, and I am an advocate for shared knowledge and power boosting to make us individually more profitable, but also to lift the reputation of bridal in general.

The question lingers, as always, about how to get the best of the March show, and to be honest I just don’t know. I read lots of articles telling you how to shop or how to make the most of your time at these events, but I think everyone’s buying style is so personal there is no one-size-fits-all approach.

Every year I tell myself I’m going to be more organised and take a list or do my homework. Last September, before Harrogate, I made a pie chart and diagrams on size sales stats and colour option preferences on sales over the previous two quarters. Did I look at it once? Like heck I did.

For me, selling is a very personal and emotional experience so maybe buying needs to be the same –at least the way I do it. Yes, I might get a better profit margin if I thought things through and didn’t buy the occasional clanger of a dress, but then I also might

not risk it and buy the ‘paid off my mortgage that year’ dress that you sometimes stumble onto.

At the moment, for me, what’s more important than stats, tables and guides to help me buy and profitize the store, is getting my team right. HR is such a hot topic at the moment – so many of us are trying to recruit, struggling with getting maternity leave right or sorting the rota so everyone can have their time off, and also dealing with the dreaded salary and commission issues. So this is what the committee at the RBA plan to focus on for the next training session with Wendy.

I guess what I’m trying to say with all my ramblings is this: remember winter is over, spring is coming and what better season to look at your stores and wonder what else you can do to be better or stoke that fire within you again.

If you fancy joining a club with other likeminded business bosses then give us at the RBA a call – you never know, we might just set you down the right path to making you profitable enough to buy that super yacht.

If it does, please remember who recommended you – I’m not a stunner in a bikini but I’m a cracking cocktail server and love a marina!

Hope to meet and catch up with more of you in London or one of the many private viewings across the UK this season. Get

WHERE THE DESIGNERS CHOOSE TO SHOW

European Bridal Week is regarded as an influencer within the industry, showcasing more than 500 key labels in Essen, for the three-day event that will attract many thousands of retailers from across the world

This show promises to dazzle, delight, and make that special, magical difference, leading the industry in new directions. And it is the designer influences that are poised to inspire the industry as a whole, setting the trends that the media will applaud and that others will follow.

At the heart of the sumptuous Messe Essen exhibition will be the show’s dedicated Designer Arena, chosen as their platform by the exclusive international houses that specialise in individuality, originality and, above all, innovation. These are the design-driven talents that never fail to move the boundaries and make an indelible impression. Here, bespoke is often the by-word, quality is the priority and polish is always the finish.

Show visitors at EBW, 1-3 April, will have the opportunity to meet those big-name designers themselves and to hear, first-hand, about their adventurous direction for 2024. They include:

ABBY WAITS, whose young Swedish designer, Louice Hedin, has focused on design simplicity, soft shades, deep backs and flowy light fabrics.

ALLESSANDRIA COPPOLA from the Netherlands uses fine fabrics from Italy and England for her new collection, Mrs Floreal, that features 3D elements and floaty pleated skirts.

CLEOFE FINATI from Italy’s Archetipo does nothing quietly. Every part of the collection makes a bold statement of design bravado, from cut to colour to fabric.

ELBETH GILLIS is a shining star from South Africa. Her Botanical collection is inspired by all things floral with leaf embellishments and shimmering beadwork.

ISI LIEB has a clear message. This German design house believes in a ‘soft, light and beautiful’ bridal personality for its chic little dresses and go-together separates.

JULIA KONTOGRUNI of Bulgaria, by designer Kremena Gineva and named after her mother, has roots grounded in the lavish creations of the 18th century European Baroque period.

LAMBERT CREATIONS has been producing gowns in France for 100 years. The newest collection is about softness and femininity, easy-going silhouettes and the prettiest accessories.

SADONI is Norway’s pride and bridal joy. Effortless femininity is the signature of designer and co-founder Trude Sadoni who creates dresses that have soul, character and an essence of purity.

VERA WANG is something of a great American icon who designs stand-out, get-noticed bridalwear that is outspoken and individual. The label is part of the Pronovias group.

This year sees the merger between European Bridal Week and Interbride, and the message spells luxury... and magic. For more information visit europeanbridalweek.com

A LETTER FROM AMERICA

It appears the “bloom may be off the rose” for bridal boutiques this side of the pond. Nothing overtly alarming or bleak…as an industry we have a long and proven record of successfully navigating many a stormy sea.

It’s more a definite and noticable ratcheting up of anxiety and stress as we deal with an evolving bride and marketplace, especially when compared to the incredible season that was 2022.

Though a bit early to make this call, anecdotal comments offered by a broad swathe of VOWS subscribers across the country indicates that the overfilled appointment books, high closing ratios, and decisive brides unconcerned about the cost of their dresses and accessories that fuelled a record-setting year for boutiques in 2022 appears not to be the reality today.

What we’re currently seeing…

A decrease in the estimated number of weddings in 2023 from the record year of 2022 indicates that we may be at the tail end of the Covid bubble.

Specifically, estimates predict 2.24 million weddings in the US for 2023, a decrease from the record setting 2.5 million weddings in 2022.

The impact of this ‘slight’ decline of approximately 250,000 projected weddings is compounded by a

heightened awareness and anxiety from the bride about the increased costs she’s facing for every aspect of her ceremony and event.

For example, The Knot’s Real Wedding study indicates that couples’ ceremony and reception spend in 2022 reached a national average of US$30,000, an increase over 2021 partially driven by inflation-increased cost of goods and services, and scarcity of goods, venues and options.

Estimates for 2023 project a possible increase of 10%… a conservative estimate in my mind just based on the continuing increases we’re seeing in costs of goods and shipping/transportation that brands have no other option than to pass down to and through their accounts.

Store traffic and appointment bookings have been inconsistent across the country… only some of which can be attributed to the impact of January’s brutal storms that forced a standstill and closure of businesses in several US regions.

Other potential factors include:

Brides are reverting to the pre-Covid behaviour of visiting and shopping multiple stores.

Less decisive than last year’s brides, this year it seems they want to continue the shopping ‘party’ now that they can have the full in-store pampering experience with their entire bridal entourage… a result of many boutiques

Peter Grimes of VOWS explains how the US market is looking currently but, despite the gloom, believes the industry will turn around for the better once again

Peter Grimes

Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

dropping limitations on the number of allowed guests.

The growth in the number of smaller, single owner/ operator boutiques that occurred in the later half of 2020 through 2022 has overly saturated some markets and regions.

Numerous well-established, well-positioned boutique owners point to a two-and-sometimes-three fold increase in the number of ‘tiny’ boutiques attempting to compete in their market place… just in the last two years.

It’s not uncommon to hear of 12-14 stores now competing within a legacy store’s marketplace, many of which appear to position themselves as “intimate, true boutiques”, representing a smaller selection of curated brands in a personalised exclusive environment.

Staffing issues also continue to plague bridal boutiques, straining resources and stressing existing staff. Many owners report near-debilitating frustration over the lack of job applicants and the high rate of turnover by those they succeed in hiring, which is compounded by the fear of losing existing staff members due to increased stress levels and the rankling at job and store policy requirements.

An extreme example, but one heard a number of times: When asked how often staff sales meeting are held, the common reaction is a sardonic laugh:

“Staff meetings? I gave up calling meetings as no one shows up! If I pushed, they’d leave.”

In addition to staffing stresses, boutique owners are feeling the strain of balancing rising costs and expenses with what they think their market will bear.

With continued economic uncertainty, seemingly unending surcharges and price hikes, and increased local competition, 2023 will be a difficult and challenging retail environment to navigate. But, as I stated earlier, as an industry we have faced and overcome many a difficult environment… often through our resilience and ability to change our perspective.

As was said in The Salmon of Doubt: Hitchhiking the Galaxy One Last Time (a posthumous collection of previously published and unpublished material by Douglas Adams):

“He was constantly reminded of how startlingly different a place the world was when viewed from a point only three feet to the side.”

“More than one retailer will say: ‘Staff meetings? I gave up calling meetings as no one shows up! If I pushed, they’d leave.”

BRIDESPEAK

What makes a bride decide to give her business to a particular bridal boutique?

Is it word of mouth recommendations, social media activity, or what?

“I fell I love with the style of a particular designer who is based a long way off from me. I phoned her and chatted and she suggested a stockist of hers that was in the next town, gave me all the contact details and she also said that if that shop did not have a certain dress there that I had seen on her (the designer’s) website, they’d send it up for the appointment. I couldn’t believe it. I truly felt like a princess. And guess what, the shop made me feel the same way, and that dress is the one I have ordered!”

Issi

Peter Grimes Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

“Tell you where I am not going. And that’s the boutique who fired questions at me when I phoned, including what my budget was and where the wedding would be, but appeared to have no interest in making me feel special, or important to them. I am going to a local seamstress who does work for a few shops, and together we are working out what style will be my dream dress and she’ll make it for me.”

Barbie

“One shop near me just picked up an award. I read about it in the local paper and then checked out their facebook and instagram posts. Great photographs and outstanding comments from happy brides, so that’s reference enough for me.”

Charmaine

“I have to be honest here. I am the last of my group of friends to be saying “I do”, and I had been with three others when they started shopping for their dress. One of them took us on four appointments, one to two shops she had heard about, and one who decided, as we walked in the door, that it was the place she wanted to be. So, in the course of a year or so, I had been one of the party sitting in on six dress sessions. All the shops had beautiful dresses, but the ones that made an impression were those where the staff could not have been more helpful, or more interested in our groups’ opinions and the bride’s budget. So really, that’s made my decision easy, now it is my turn, and I am heading to the shop I felt most comfortable in – I know their consultant will help me make the right decision; my friend who bought her dress there couldn’t have done better.”

Blythe

“My approach is very straightforward. I have visited countless designers’ websites, I have searched styles and fabrics, and I have found brands that I really like. Then I checked which local shops carried those labels and have made appointments with two shops. I feel I know just what I want but I do appreciate I could change my mind when I start trying dresses on, although I don’t think I will.”

Susana

“I am a social media user and don’t do anything without looking first online and seeing what others have to say. When people are raving about a particular boutique, that will interest me more than anything. I have already shortlisted three shops and plan to make appointments with them all. Whoever offers me the best service and, without question, the best price, that could be the one I settle on.”

YOUR GUIDE TO THE NAMES AT WHITE GALLERY

Designer labels stand out, not just in their personality but also in the quality of the fabrics chosen and the opulence of the detailing. At White Gallery, an established arm of London Bridal Fashion Week, 19-21 March at ExCel, you will see the latest collections from important, trend-setting names on the world stage

Alan Hannah

Anais Ricard

AphroditexVenus

Banu Güven

Bowen Dryden

Bridelymade

Carta Branca

Catherine Deane

Catherine Kowalski Bridal

Demure by Chanelle Ciny

Devoted by Jessica Jordan

Diane Lewis

Eden Keshia

Edwina O’Gorman

Ever

Freda Bennet

Gemma Leakey

Gözde Karadana

Halo & Co

Indiebride London

Bowen Dryden

Freda Bennet

Kate Fearnley

Halo & Co

Josephine Scott

Inezia Chrizita

Ivory & Co

Josephine Scott

Kate Fearnley

Katy Britton

Katya Katya

Lalunah Bride

Louise Bentley

Love and Liberty

Love Story

Maria Pia

Marryandbride Knitted Couture

Marylise

Miabelle

Michèle Weiten

Mikaella Bridal

Natalya James

Paloma Blanca

Rebecca Schoneveld

ROMANTICA

A fit and flare silhouette with a stunning off-the-shoulder shawl neckline, Nala is simple and elegant and perfect for contemporary brides. Great for brides of all ages and perfect for either a classic church ceremony or a stylish beach wedding, this one is a versatile gem your brides are sure to love!

JENNIFER WREN

A lovely floral chiffon A-line with a V-neck and sheer lace detachable sleeves, JW220923 is perfect for a summer wedding. The sleeves give two looks, a great selling point today, and the corsetry adds a trend setting finish to the bodice.

SOPHIA TOLLI

Step aside and make room for this opulent ballgown! Ansel is a minimalistic pearl mikado A-line gown with perfect draping across the bodice creating an ultra-flattering sweetheart neckline, and the detachable off-the-shoulder straps introduce another look. While the split skirt adds that bit of sexy decadence.

ROMANTICA SPELLS OUT THE TRENDS

As retailers ready themselves to shop for the new season, James Waddington of multi-brand portfolio Romantica of Devon picks the gowns that featured in private shows and look like being the out and out winners at European Bridal Week in

Buying stock for your boutique is up there as one of the most important tasks all retailers have to complete. With the right gowns on your rails, your brides will be able to find the dress of their

dreams. However, without them you will struggle to close sales and give your store the turnover you are aiming for and it needs.

I believe that bridal is a niche market, so whilst having a USP is important, appealing to the broadest number of brides in your local area whilst retaining your identity is key. I like to think that across the Romantica collections there is a dress for every bride, so below I will highlight some stand-out best sellers from the latest collections and those designs we will be taking to London and then to Essen in just a few weeks time. Each of them has been chosen to highlight different looks that we think are key for your 2023 and 2024 brides across the price points that we offer.

For more information on any of our collections, please email sales@romanticaofdevon.co.uk.

PURE

PB217 is a delicate boho dress with an A-Line silhouette and V-neckline that features 3D flowers and lays on the detail. It can also be ordered with the bodice filled in, giving brides yet another choice.

SILHOUETTE

Striking laces are on trend and up to the minute. Kirra Belle combines these gorgeous fabrics with a flattering classic silhouette and well corseted gown to give brides the dress of their dreams. The ivory/almond combination allows the lace detail to really stand out.

MARTIN THORNBURG

Alesea is a showstopping ballgown with a seductive edge. The dreamy skirt features a sultry thigh-high split and sparkling sequin tulle that falls effortlessly into a breathtaking cathedral train. Opulent Venice lace appliqué and a flattering off-theshoulder neckline are just a few details that make this gown simply captivating and a hot pick for the new season.

Sharing problems

When someone else listens, the load is often lighter

ATTACK OR ASSIST

Scroll through many a social media bio and you will see ‘entrepreneur’ or ‘female entrepreneur’ or Sue Lovell’s favourite, ‘a strong woman’. But what does it actually mean, she asks

The definition of entrepreneur is “a person who sets up a business or businesses, taking on financial risks in the hope of profit”. It’s not attributed to gender, and note that it doesn’t say “guaranteed success”.

The definition of a con artist is “a person who cheats or tricks others by persuading them to believe something that is not true”. Con artist is a term that doesn’t appear in many bios.

Why is that? Is it because we can separate a person from a business? We surely are intelligent enough to know that if a business fails, it doesn’t mean the person behind it has. You can still be an entrepreneur, positive thinking can still manifest opportunity. A good woman can still be a good woman!

Unjust labels

It seems to me that in the toxic world of social media, if a business person is a woman – in the bridal industry particularly – then there is no separation between a failed business and a failed woman –indeed, she is often labelled a conwoman.

I was recently following an article about a bridal business that had suddenly closed, and I was shocked to see how much negativity, angry comments and furious emojis it received, whereas further down the page a drunk driver four times over the limit, a corrupt copper and a prolific drug dealer were featured yet received barely a thumbs down emoji; they certainly didn’t get nasty comments and shares. A list of actual and potential criminals did not receive one iota of the abuse that a woman who closed her business received. Think about that for a moment, a former shop owner was subjected to more shame and humiliation than a drunk driver - is that truly where we comfortably sit

as a society?

It struck me how terrifying it is to be an owner in a desperate financial business situation. When you’ve tried everything possible to succeed, invested your time, money and dreams into a business, often you are the only one who has been conned.

come together to put someone’s mental, financial and physical wellbeing in danger. Because someone, somewhere wasn’t happy with the answer they received. We don’t like to be told “no”, or sometimes we can’t just wait to get the answer we want, we have to have it now, or we attack.

Because you’ve told yourself it will be okay, you told yourself the money you invest next will make the difference. You took orders because that’s what you do, you sell dresses, and that’s how businesses operate. Then suddenly there aren’t enough orders coming in. It’s a business decision no one wants to make - but it’s still business.

However, when you have lost everything you have worked so hard for, some people seem to want you to lose more.

This is cruelty

Then there are the people out there who want to destroy a business because they don’t like the terms of a contract they signed. A change of circumstance means a change of acceptance. They feel the need to gather an army of keyboard warriors to attack, slander and libel a shop owner.

We see the rallying cry “give them a bad review”. In other words, the call is put out to try to destroy a business – a person’s livelihood. A business that you know very little about now deserves a negative review because you’ve brought into a hate campaign has been waged against them.

A group of virtual strangers can

Shops have a code of conduct, guidelines that we follow. We respect a customer’s privacy, so we can’t comment on an issue a customer may have with us. Our hands are tied, so we take the attacks and misinformation that’s spread, no matter how vitriolic and unfair. We remain silent.

What if it was you?

I’ve spoken about it many times before, this need some have to tear another woman down. I don’t understand how trying to destroy not only a business but another human being is seen as a noble sport. We all know them, the women who in previous generations would be grabbing the rotten fruit, arming themselves and fighting to get front row at the stocks at the village green. We know the men who get a thrill out of intimidating a woman, making her feel scared to go out or be alone. We know these people: we see them at shows and events, we work with them. Are we really okay with this, or are we scared to stand up to them in case they turn on us?

I will not mention names, but please believe me when I say I really want to, because I want to stand up and scream my support of some amazing women. What stops me is because I want them to have peace and not to add a spotlight to their individual situations.

When I talk about women supporting women, these magnificent ladies have always

“I was shocked at the negativity, angry comments and furious emojis a business that had suddently closed received .”

been first in the queue to offer help and support to others. These totally amazing humans have also given their customers an exemplary service, they have hundreds of glowing reviews, they were respected by suppliers, competitors and customers alike, and they have given their business every drop of energy they had left, and then they experienced a time when they needed help and support.

People who do not know how this industry works may be forgiven for their naïveté, but those who know exactly how it works and still choose to add fuel to the fire, well, shame on you. You know that the owner isn’t a conwoman, and that she’s almost broken by this, but that didn’t stop you. You capitalised on another woman’s downfall, don’t fool yourself into thinking that’s good business, it’s a dirty business.

But there is hope and times are changing. There are people in this industry who make a positive difference. I saw a friend who is nine months on from a closure. She was telling me that it’s a grieving process, but also a rebirth. She was devastated she had to close, and as distressing as it was, she felt she could breathe again. She had the usual social media fall out, but she didn’t let herself fall into that trap.

She had the strength and self-belief to know that many of the comments were untrue or wildly exaggerated. She understood she could not change the opinion of ignorant people who had no understanding of the truth. She knew there was no point giving her time and her head space to the trolls who spent so much of their time hounding her. Her time was far more valuable than they seemingly valued theirs.

Support is vital

I was curious as to how she got through it, because I know she was initially driven to a very dark place when there seemed there was no way out. I was terrified for her; I cried with her and for her, because no one should find themselves in such a desperate situation, or be called a criminal because a shop failed.

So I was pleasantly surprised when she told me that when her closure was announced, far more people sent her supportive messages than negative ones. People in the industry who really mattered let her know they were sorry for her closure, but wished her well. Every message gave her strength to get out of bed and face the day. The messages came without judgement, just support and well wishes. People let her know she was going to be ok.

If you have experience of someone’s professional generosity, or have felt the warmth of their support, as well as personal friendships, then say something when you know they are in trouble. Don’t stand by and watch them get torn apart and definitely don’t grab your keyboard and follow the mob.

Businesses fail but people choose to fail. The way we fail is by letting someone struggle, and by kicking them when they are already on the floor, broken. In a world that seems to show our value in who we follow and who follows us back, let’s think twice about who we engage with and be the one to lead the way.

It takes a strong woman to stand up for others, to hold or help them up, and it’s an indication of enormous weakness to kick someone when they are down. It’s cowardly, but luckily this industry is bursting with quietly strong, supportive and positive women. My inbox has been full of messages of support offered by them to others who have had a really rubbish time recently. These are women who understand that being in business means you work hard, take on financial risks and you hopefully reap the profits , but it’s not guaranteed.

That is the very definition of an entrepreneur.

Affordable boho luxe retailing under £1000. View the new collection at Bridal Week London - Stand C49

To book an appointment email info@studioellis.co.uk

JAMES ELLIS IN CONVERSATION WITH

WT When did you first get involved in the business?

JE I have now worked in the bridal industry for ten years. Before joining the family business, I worked at Alexander McQueen and I was account manager for Valentino Red.

WT When did you take control?

JE I took over just before covid hit in March 2020. This offered its challenges but also gave me time to focus the business in a fresh direction internally and with our product, which has proven to be the right decision.

WT What collections are in the portfolio now?

JE ELLIS BRIDALS, designed with love in London. Located in the heart of the capital, we are a British bridal brand with over 100 years of living heritage. The brand has become synonymous with clean, timeless styling with a contemporary twist. With a considered collection of 25 pieces, season to season we are dedicated to creating a premium product with high-end construction and luxurious fabrics at an affordable price point. When a bride chooses Ellis Bridals, she chooses a little story – a gown embedded with history, tradition and love.

KELSEY ROSE, made for dreamers. Kelsey Rose started as the rebellious sister of Ellis Bridals in the 80s

and we have taken the brand back to its roots. From outdoor weddings to city brides and micro celebrations, Kelsey Rose creates bridal looks with a cool-girl ease to take you through the big day, the big party and forever after. Passionate about individuality, our range of wedding dresses, separates and accessories allow a bride to express their personality and customise their own bridal style. Boho luxe or city chic, we have something for every modern bride.

JOHN CHARLES, occasionwear for the modern woman. Our glamorous John Charles designer outfits are perfect for the modern woman who is looking to wear something elegant and chic. Designed in London, our mother of the bride/groom collection will help the nearest and dearest radiate with confidence and feel part of that special day. With a wide range of wearable shapes in luxurious fabrics, John Charles focuses on exquisite beadwork, premium finishes and construction that make every woman feel like the best version of herself.

WT Do you grant exclusivity, and what are the parameters?

JE This is always looked at on a case-by-case basis but it is important for us to have an understanding from the start what is expected from both the retailer and ourselves.

The driving force behind the Ellis Bridals portfolio, James is the fourth generation boss of the company that’s now in its 111th year. We talked to him as the group gets ready to showcase its 2024 collections

WT Do you stay in regular contact with retailers, and how?

JE We send regular emails with updates throughout the season but the strongest form of communication is still to pick up the phone and catch up with all of our stockists. Listening to feedback is the most valuable tool for us to keep evolving as a business.

WT What is your key communication tool?

JE Social media is the fastest way to connect with both retailers and brides. We have really focused on building a social media presence over the past few years and we aim to put out consistent, engaging content for both audiences.

WT And what promotional support do you offer your stockists?

JE We advertise all of our Ellis and Kelsey Rose stockists on our brand website and we offer social media support throughout the season – reposting and highlighting our stockists.

For Ellis, representation of the brand is key, so we work more closely with our Premium and Elite stores who offer a bigger range of the Ellis collection. We have also worked on seasonal in-store shoots with our Elite stores who carry the entire collection.

WT Do you impose minimum quantities across your labels?

JE With Ellis it is eight dresses per season, 12 dresses to become a Premium stockist and all 25 dresses to become an Elite stockist.

For Kelsey Rose we have a minimum spend of £2,500 for sample orders per season. This normally gets you around 10-12 dresses but could also include pieces from our range of separates.

WT Where does the design inspiration come from?

JE We are forever inspired by the Ellis bride. She’s timeless yet modern; and knows her own personal style. We always have her in mind when we are designing a new collection. We always start by listening to our retailers feedback from the previous season so that we are constantly evolving to meet their needs. We work as a team, pulling together research and coming up with ideas for the season ahead.

Being London-based, we are in the heart of art and fashion so we are always looking at what’s coming through in the fashion industry to give a modern twist to what we do. Our archive collection is always a point of reference to us. As a heritage brand, it is important for us to stay true to our DNA.

With Kelsey Rose, the brand direction is inspired by

the rise of the relaxed wedding. From elopements to garden parties, destination weddings to registry office ceremonies, our starting point is always an informal take on bridal style.

WT And fabrics – what are your choices?

JE For Ellis, we have our go-to fabrics season-to-season such as satin and mikado that always work well with our dramatic ballgowns. Over the past few seasons organza and organdy have become real favourites, offering a beautiful lightness to the silhouettes.

This season we really focused on our lace choices, looking for new fabrications that follow our British handwriting. The Ellis brand has become synonymous with a clean timeless look, so it is important that our more detailed, lace dresses still have a sleek finish to them.

Soft, romantic fabrics are core to the Kelsey Rose personality. Think super soft tulles, drapey chiffons and unique laces. Layered laces and delicate trims combine for statement features. Tulle is always a winner – layering tulle with organza creates a fuller, more romantic feel to the skirts that has proven to be really popular. Unique lace trims are a signature look for Kelsey Rose so we have worked on new ways of mixing trims and appliqués to create dresses with detail and a boho luxe feel.

WT Do you manufacture in this country?

JE We design everything in this country and have worked with the same factories in Asia for over 20 years, ensuring our consistent make and quality.

WT Has Brexit affected your relationship with EU countries?

JE We have had to set up a separate operation in the EU because of Brexit. Due to this, we have not lost customers in the EU but Brexit has made working more complicated.

WT Which are your biggest markets outside of the UK?

JE Germany is our biggest market outside of the UK, Kelsey Rose in particular has a lot of momentum in Europe and we hope to continue to expand.

WT Tell us about the 2024 collections – the fabrics, cuts, embellishments, everything.

JE The Ellis collection is all about timeless silhouettes combined with fresh floral details and sophisticated embellishments to create a collection that feels quintessentially British and utterly romantic. 3D florals are a big trend for the coming season, so we have some gorgeous new 3D elements coming through. Sheer fabrics are having a real moment, too. You’ll see

organza sleeves, illusion tulle detailing and light organdy fabrics creating light and airy silhouettes. We are known for our unique luxe fabrics, and have introduced some new beautiful ones this season.

Kelsey Rose, on the other hand, focuses on whimsical and light fabrics .The 2024 collection continues the brand’s boho feel with soft mocha tones, botanical lace detailing and ethereal and light fabrications. Statement sleeve details and detachable elements continue as a theme for 2024, allowing brides to create their own look. For a bride looking for even more personalisation, we have brand new bridal separates, too!

WT Are your retailers asking for anything in particular?

JE We are finding that our Ellis brides are looking for multiple looks and our show stopping accessories have been doing incredibly well. This season, to meet the ongoing demand for bridal accessories that can be used to change up the look throughout the day, we have a new top with incredible organza sleeves that can be worn over multiple styles, plus a new statement overskirt!

When it comes to Kelsey Rose, we have noticed an increase in quick turn-around brides, and have increased our offering of stock availability to help cater to the brides with a short lead time. As well as this we have a particularly short delivery time for made to order of just 8-12 weeks.

Being a British design house, we have a good understanding of what the UK market is looking for so we

are able to be flexible to their needs.

WT Is cost a particular concern to your end customers –the brides themselves?

JE We have certainly noticed a fall in budgets over the past year or so. We have always been focused on retailing at an accessible price point but we never sacrifice on quality, offering a beautifully-made product with high-end construction and a premium image that is affordable.  All of our Kelsey Rose dresses retail under £1,000, which has helped retailers extend their offerings into this lower price bracket.

WT Your photography – which is sensational – do you see this as a key investment?

JE Thank you, creating a collection is a journey and coming up with our shoots is really something we enjoy as a team. Our images are key, telling brides and retailers who we are as a brand, so we always put a lot of energy into our shoots.

WT Where will you be showing your 2024 ranges this year?

JE We are showing at Bridal Week London, European Bridal Week and Harrogate Bridal Fashion Week. Our London design studio is open for appointments, and we do have visiting reps. We also have a great online portal where retailers can view the collection online.

Neck To Neck

whelming, and we can add to it with sleeves, capes and inserts.

The choice of neckline can greatly impact the overall look and feel of a dress. Personal style, body type and type of wedding have to be considered.

trend spotting, I always seem to take pictures of plunge neck dresses and asymmetric styles, mainly because they are great for Instagram likes and make me smile.

At one point in my bridal career, I felt all you ever saw was strapless, strapless, strapless. If I told anyone that I worked in bridal they would give me that slightly smug knowing smile, nod and say things like ‘corsets’, ‘satin’, puffy’ and ‘meringues’. It took years to shake off the stereotypical 80s vison of wedding dresses that had become firmly ingrained on people’s minds.

In the early days, how I longed for a high neck or, heaven forbid, a plunge. But wishes do come true.

Fast forward and we have such a selection now it’s almost over-

I’m a huge fan of high neck lace dresses with long sleeves; it’s a good job I’m not a retailer, my shop would be full of high neck dresses or those slashed to the waist, so it could well be the shortest opened shop in the history of bridal.

My high neck obsession has nothing to do with modesty; I’m just old-fashioned and love the whole Grace Kelly/Audrey Hepburn look. And my personal love for slash necks, horizontal or vertical, also knows no bounds, but I am talking aesthetics here not function.

However, when in Barcelona at BBFW, glued to my seat for the week,

But as we all know, what looks brilliant on the runway – especially a virtually backless slashed-to-waist dress – in the real world, may not be the most practical dress for anything other than walking and staying upright – leaning forward to cut a cake could be an embarrassing disaster. The saviour of the Plunge is illusion net.

As with so many things, you have to be careful with this too–no bride wants to look like a reject contestant from Strictly Come Dancing so it’s great that a lot of manufacturers and designers are now doing skin-toned illusion net.

Talking necklines, pictures speak louder than words, let’s take a flick through the neckline gallery...

Peta picks her favourites of the latest necklines, some leaning on the classical, others a bit wild and quite wonderful

FLORA

Asymmetrics

An asymmetric neckline features two different shapes on each side of the shoulders and they are certainly having a moment right now. Kate Halfpenny, Sassi Holford and Viktor & Rolf are all sporting the trend in their newest collections; in fashion speak “It’s a fresh and modern take on the one-shoulder look”. Check out Ines Di Santo and Millanova, too.

Halters

This is a strong fashion look but… not for everyone. It’s perfect for outdoor weddings or beach ceremonies. Make sure that it fastens securely, we want that perfect bow to stay done up. The joy of this neckline is that it shows off the shoulders, but beware of looking like an Olympic swimmer in a skirt. I’d have a peek at Viktor & Rolf, Gala by Galia Lahav Monica Loretti and Alan Hannah to see some great ones.

BOTIAS

BOTIAS

ANNE BARGE

VIKTOR & ROLF

INES DI SANTO JUSTIN ALEXANDER

MILLANOVA

MONICA LORETTI

KATE HALFPENNY ALAN HANNAH

High neck

Calling all Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn fans, this provides the most coverage of any bridal neckline, but 10/10 for me for style. Top of my search list are Ellis, Justin Alexander and Wona Concept.

Illusion

Tulle or lace can work to fill in a corset top, keep a strapless top in place and add a touch of the demure to the dress. We seemed to have had an overload of dresses in the last few years that lacked finesse –surgical strength elastic with lace sewn on or looking like a four year old’s work with a Pritt stick. This is not illusion, just horrible fancy dress. The tulle should be almost invisible so that beading or lace float on the skin. I remember seeing the first Berta collection in New York and was amazed by the covered nakedness of it all. It was and still is groundbreaking. Illusionists: Berta, Galiha Lahav, Kenneth Winston and new to me but amazing is Alonuko.

BOTIAS BOTIAS

ELLIS BRIDALS

LIZ MARTINEZ

WONA CONCEPT

KENNETH WINSTON

EVA LENDEL BERTA

ARAVA POLAK

ALONUKO

Off the shoulder

This is the sexy one, especially for curvy shapes. Fit is key, and a little stretch in fabric can be an advantage – it is so nice to be able to move your arms. Wedding worthy dresses Maggie Sottero, Lili Hod and Wona Concept.

Plunging

Warning: for the confident bride only. Shows off your décolletage, elongates your torso, as a safety net so to speak. Some come with illusion net to prevent wardrobe malfunctions, but only the brave, as previously stated, or small busted should consider this. It is nice with long sleeves to lessen too much flesh on show. Great examples that work are Berta, Ellis and Liz Martinez.

BOTIAS

BOTIAS

BAGLEY MISCHKA

GRACE LOVES LACE

ALONUKO

WOLLOWBY

PALOMA BLANCA

ANGELA BIANCA

GRACE LOVES LACE

ANNE BARGE

Round or scoop

There is something very neat and tidy about round necks, don’t you think? Not prim just very understated; Rosa Clara always does a great one. The scoop to me is a more sassy bride, not as brave as a plunge. Always look for inspiration at Muse by Berta.

Boat/slash/bateau

Call it what you will, these necklines stretch wide across the neck and sit just past the collarbones. I just counted how many striped Breton boat neck tops I have… I stopped at 10, so you can see where I’m coming from. This neckline works well for most dress shapes, but I love it especially on a sheath dress. I think it’s great for smaller busts, too. Ones to look out for are Eliza Jane Howell, Paloma Blanca, Alan Hannah and Sottero & Midgley.

ROSA CLARA

WONA CONCEPT

MUSE BY BERTA

Square neck

Love this open neckline, especially with sleeves, I think it is a very crisp modern style. Perfect City wedding wear and somehow seems very French, don’t ask me why. It’s the perfect look for brides who want to show off that new diamond pendant, too!! Wonderfully wearable: Alan Hannah. Rebecca Ingrams, Jesus Peiro and Elbeth Gillis.

Strapless

Our old friend. In the US, according to Martha Stewart Weddings, “while alternative necklines are starting to become more popular, about 75 percent of wedding dresses are strapless”. The more romantic strapless shape is the sweetheart neckline, however, thanks to the rise of bandeau tops and corsets being worn solo or under jackets by super influencers like Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski (they are the poster girls for the whole strapless tube top movement), the straight line corset top is now very on trend for edgier brides. Corseted to perfection at Anne Barge, Sottero Midgley and Justin Alexander.

BOTIAS

BOTIAS

KELSEY ROSE

ALAN HANNAH

ELBETH GILLIS LIZ MARTINEZ

MAGGIE SOTTERO

MIKAELLA

SASSI HOLFORD

ELLIS BRIDALS

Sweethearts

Cut to resemble the top of a heart, whether strapless or with sleeves, this style creates the illusion of slimmer shoulders and neckline, accentuates the bust, but if you have a larger bust or are looking for a touch more modesty, a slightly higher cut works well. A great favourite for the retro 50s lover with a full skirt, think Mooshski. Can’t wait to see more from Ellis, Badgley Mischka, Gemma Leake and Avra Polak.

V-neck

Basically, a plunge for less brave brides, or those who need plenty of support from a bra, corset or scaffolding. V-neck heroes are Eva Lendel, Willowby, Romantica and Indiebride.

BOTIAS

ELIZA JANE HOWELL

BERTA PRIVEE ROSA CLARA

MARTIN THORNBURG ELYSEE EDITION ROMANTICA

BADGLEY MISCHKA

The first and only handknitted collection for finest bridal accessories and separates.

Stand 406

London Bridal Week

www.marryandbride.com

MORILEE ALL ABOUT

What started as a small business in New York City, designing and making wedding gowns for selected stores, soon expanded – its style and quality got it noticed, and was in real demand.

Today, the brand is sold in 3,000 shops worldwide and its dresses have been worn and loved by generations of women, and it will continue building on this legacy for future generations, too.

Designer Madeline Gardner joined Morilee on a threeweek trial basis in 1985 and has been the creative force behind the brand ever since. Known for her distinctive

signature style, Madeline has always enjoyed designing exquisite ballgown styles with delicate beading and a sense of sophisticated glamour.

From the beginning of planning the collection to its launch is usually around six months. The design team begins by drawing up sketches of the designs they would like to include and then have samples made up in order to see which fabrics work best and how each dress looks when worn. There is then a selection process in which design choices are narrowed down and after the initial stages, customers become involved in making the final decisions. That’s the main process – the collection

The US Morilee brand started in 1953 as a family business and has since grown into a leading global name and one of the great stars in bridal, often the first port of call for retailers visiting the major trade events

AMY & EVE GRACE

content from design to detail to fabric sorted – and photography, which is absolutely key – starts putting the brand one step closer to launch.

The new season story

The new 2024 collection is a celebration of the Morilee brand as the company enters its 70th year of business. Classic and timeless designs that reflect the legacy of the brand are incorporated into the collections in addition to more contemporary and cool chic looks that reflect its future. From all-over lace styles to well-cut minimalistic gowns in mikado, detachable features and

the signature Morilee ballgowns, mean that there is something very special to suit the unique personality of every bride.

New fabric options have been introduced for the season, including stretch Mikado and textured lace which offer a matte look. And in terms of detail, there are stunning back shapes, and soft ballgowns with split skirts. There are also new bodice shapes which incorporate corset-style elements giving a contemporary high-style feel.

All in all, the new collection features some 90 brand new styles across the main Morilee, Blu, Amy & Eve,

MORILEE MORILEE BLU

MADELINE GARDNER SIGNATURE

MADELINE GARDNER SIGNATURE

MORILEE BLU

MADELINE GARDNER SIGNATURE

TREND INDICATORS

Morilee has noticed an increased demand for its plus size Julietta collection with more stores taking a wider variety of styles that flatter the curves of plus size brides. Another key uptake is for detachable elements as brides are looking for styles that they can adapt throughout their big day. Overskirts and detachable sleeves are scoring points, allowing for the option of changing a look from ceremony to reception party.

Julietta and Grace labels that will showcase at Bridal Week London this month and in September at the key Harrogate show when 70th anniversary celebrations are planned.

Celebrations are great but, as we all know, staying in contact with retail partners before, after and in between the major trade events is vital, and Morilee lists communication as a priority.

Stores can order outside of show times by using the dedicated retailer portal. Offering a wide range of services from placing orders and checking stock to downloading resources, it is a 24/7 support service for stockists. And the company keeps in regular touch with its stores throughout the year with email marketing and social media campaigns, sharing its most popular

styles and trends. But then, exceptional support from the company’s sales representatives, marketing and customer service teams are features of the brand personality.

New initiatives for schemes with premier stockists on the ambassador programme are underway now, and reaching brides directly plays a role in all support offerings. This is where social media activity is so important as the place to promote new styles, wedding inspiration and real brides. Morilee invests in paid advertising across Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest as well as Google Adwords to ensure their message reaches new audiences, and Madeline herself is extremely active on the main platforms engaging with brides, and stores, and giving a glimpse into her design world.

JULIETTA MADELINE GARDNER SIGNATURE MADELINE GARDNER SIGNATURE

JULIETTA JULIETTA

INTRODUCING THE BOBBY PIN BOUTIQUE

WHAT IT IS

Launching January 2023, The Bobby Pin Boutique is a luxury range of trend-led bridal accessories exclusively available to select bridal boutiques across the UK. It includes beautiful hair vines, pins, clips, headpieces and jewellery designed to reflect leading big-day looks whilst effortlessly appealing to modern, style-conscious brides.

WHY WE LAUNCHED IT

We wanted to create a range specifically for our much loved stockists that is unique to boutiques and not available online. These beautiful accessories can be handpicked by boutiques to complement their specific gown collections and be styled during bridal appointments to perfectly suit the individual bride and help achieve their big-day vision.

WHAT TO EXPECT

BPB embodies the same elegance and style as our main Bobby Pin collection but elevates the luxury further for beautifully crafted pieces that align with the offering of leading boutiques. Key themes found in the launch BPB collection are taken from current and future bridal trends, including angel influences, statement headbands and large ethereal pieces.

WHY BRIDES WILL LOVE BPB

Brides will adore the exclusivity and individuality of our gorgeous BPB range. These comfortable, versatile, and incredibly stylish accessories give brides more choice to express their unique style and break free of the traditional bridal mould. Furthermore, there are coordinating ‘twinning’ pieces that brides can use to build up their own accessory look and can also be worn by their bridesmaids for a beautifully cohesive bridal party.

RAINBOW CLUB STEPPING OUT WITH

Launched in 1986, so more than three decades ago, British brand Rainbow Club has moved from being a comprehensive special occasion shoe provider to a high-fashion all-rounder with a portfolio that covers bridal and occasionwear shoes, handbags, clips and veils, and a delightful collection for children.

Today, with 400 stockists of their shoes in the UK and 1,500 across Europe, the house has 50 different designs and has sold an astonishing five million pairs of shoes since it first launched.

“A Rainbow Club customer expects footwear and veils that blend timeless elegance with trend-inspired details,” explains MD Richard Marsh. “We design a number of collection ‘stories’ rather than one-themed range. Each

Everyone in the business, and virtually every bride and party goer, will know the name Rainbow Club and its brilliant offering that today includes women and kiddies footwear and accessories

season the collection will perfectly balance glamorous details and luxe finishes with more demure and pairedback silhouettes, ensuring there is something for every bridal style.”

For the new season, Rainbow Club has expanded its range of shoe clips and accessories after seeing personalisation become more and more of a consideration for the modern bride-to-be. Both footwear and accessories collections have been designed to be styled interchangeably, meaning the opportunities to achieve an effortless, customised look are truly endless.

And as Rainbow Club believe that brides shouldn’t have to sacrifice style for comfort on their wedding day, they developed Bliss Comfort. All footwear features the brands signature padded linings as well as super-soft underfoot cushioning; it is cleverly designed to support brides all day long.

The feedback from brides and guests surrounding Rainbow Club’s comfort promise is positively glowing, we have been told. And bringing together comfort with designer-led styling is just terrific accomplishment and a real focus for the label.

Talking shoes

Rainbow Club has a number of different best-selling styles in their shoe collection which speaks to how diverse and accommodating the range is for every

different bridal personality.

On the glamour and trend-led side, there is Freya. Taking a simple shape and adding some statement sparkle, these slingbacks have truly become the brands signature style. Beautifully-crafted from lustrous ivory satin, Freya boasts a sharply pointed toe and wearable block heel and is embellished with silver crystal diamante detail across the foot to add an instant hit of style and modernity.

For the bride looking for something a little more paired back, Eve has been the go-to for countless seasons and continues to be a favourite. These stylish bridal shoes tap into the resurgence of the ankle-strap heel, in the most elegant and contemporary fashion. Eve marries an almond-shaped toe with sweetheart neckline and a dainty and delicate ankle strap. She is finished with a wear-all-day block heel for optimum-levels of comfort. A best-seller for a reason.

The new collection

In keeping with its classic yet lavish design signature, Rainbow Club celebrates glamour in abundance for SS23. Think luxe crystal embellishments, delicate appliqué and iridescent pearl detailing. For the bride opting for a minimalist look, there are also plenty of understated designs that still offer an equal measure of opulence and style.

Fern Gracie

The stand out silhouettes in the collection take note from the biggest trends in the industry, from a skyscraper platform sandal (Gracie), inspired by the retro nostalgia movement, through to a demure sling-back kitten heel with a sharply pointed toe (Joni), a profile gaining traction all over social media, thanks to its many celebrity fans.

Magpie brides that can’t resist sparkle will fall head over heels for Fern. A new elegant block heel sandal with flattering cross straps over the foot, this style boasts dazzling crystal embellishment across the toe for a truly showstopping look.

Says Richard Marsh: “Our SS23 collection truly feels like our most stylish yet as we continue to take inspiration from pioneering designer brands such as Jimmy Choo and Aquazzura. Our design team always has their ears to the ground and the finger on the pulse of the latest trends and movements to ensure every year our range feels elevated and relevant. The silhouettes feel more contemporary, the finishes more premium and the quality is second-to-none”.

In the shade

So what’s ahead for Rainbow Club? “This is a really exciting time for us as we begin to enter a new chapter and truly cement ourselves as occasion wear experts,” says Richard.

“This new phase has started with the re-launch of our much-loved Colour Studio service. We are calling it a Colour revolution as it’s unlike anything else available in

the market place.

“Customers can now shop for colour and add a second-life to their existing shoes more easily with our streamlined service. We have improved the experience on our DTC (direct to consumer) site to simplify the buying process and wow our customers with inspiration and styling ideas.

“Our palette has also been paired-back and now contains 40 great shades, 20 neutrals and 20 brights, that will be updated season-on-season to ensure we are always offering the latest colours. Extensive research went into the development of our house palette and we’ve already been overwhelmed by customer feedback.”

Best selling shades? “Currently, emerald green and scarlet red are the most popular but we are predicting fuchsia and lilac to become keen contenders this season as we see more feminine shades come back into the spotlight,” says Richard and then hints at what lies ahead.

“Beyond colour, we are also working on a very exciting, but still very much under wraps collection that caters to a non-bridal customer. We are still in the research and development phase of this project but I already feel like it’s going to be one our most exciting chapters yet”.

Rainbow Club shoes come in sizes 3–8, and at a highly attractive price point of £39–£149.

Rainbow Club’s new collection is currently available to preorder online at rainbowclub.co.uk

Amelie Joni

SHOWTIME 2023

NATIONAL BRIDAL MARKET CHICAGO

12-14  March / 20-22 August

Location: Merchandise Mart, Chicago

Exhibitors expected: Womenswear, accessories, lingerie and footwear

Special features: After show parties, daily events.

Reduced hotel rates for all attendees and some complimentary hotels for new buyers.

T: +1 312 527 7763

E: jhelfin@themart.com

W: www.nationalbridalmarket.com

BRIDAL WEEK LONDON AND WHITE GALLERY LONDON

19-21 March

Location: Excel, London

Exhibitors expected: Bridal Week 250, White Gallery 70

Special features: Catwalk shows, cocktail and Champagne bars, VIP Lounge, Business Advice Area.

T: +44(0) 1423 770120

E: georgia@bridal-uk.com

W: www.bridalweek.com

To register: www.bridalweek.com

The buying ball is on the roll and retailers are planning where to be, when and, importantly, which brands will be first on their to-see list

BRIDAL WEEK LONDON

ROME BRIDAL WEEK

25-27 March

Location: Fiera di Roma

Exhibitors expected: 350+

Special features: Great relaxation and networking facilities; daily catwalk performances.

T: +31 318 769 233

E: info@romebridalweek.it

W: romebridalweek.it/en/

EUROPEAN BRIDAL WEEK

1–3 April

Location: Messe Essen, Germany

Exhibitors expected: 500+

Special features: With the coming together of European Bridal Week and Interbride, this is the big one, with exhibitors from across the globe. Fashion shows, meet and greet sessions, Champagne Bar and Instagram Candy Bar, free parking, shuttle buses from and to the airport and much much more.

T: +31 318 769 233

E: info@united-fairs.com

W: info@united-fairs.com

To register: www.databadge.net/ebw2023/ reg/?lan=en

ONE FINE DAY

12-13 April

Location: 7th floor, 05, 450 West 31st Street, New York

Exhibitors expected: 25

Special features: A gathering of some of the world’s most fashion forward designers for a personalised boutique shopping experience. Complimentary wifi and a private, relaxing viewing environment.

T: +61 2 8072 0679

E: cathleen@onefinecollective.com

W: www.onefinedaybridalmarket.com/

To register: /www.eventbrite.com.au/e/onefine-day-bridal-market-new-york-april-2023tickets-474883327817

BRIDAL WEEK LONDON

ROME BRIDAL WEEK

ONE FINE DAY

BARCELONA BRIDAL FASHION WEEK (BBFW)

Fashion shows: 19-22 April 2023

Trade Show: 21-23 April 2023

Exhibitors: Many hundreds. In 2022 there were 75% international names, and close to 19,000 visitors, 65% of whom were from abroad.

Location: Fira de Barcelona

Special features: Barcelona Bridal Night, on the 19th, is the gala event of BBFW and where last year Viktor & Rolf premiered their Mariage bridal collection; Marchesa and Reem Acra have also shown their collections at this event on the previous years. This year’s star designer will be announced shortly.

T: +34 932 332 000

E: info@firabarcelona.com

W: www.barcelonabridalweek.com

To Register: www.barcelonabridalweek.com/ registration/

BRIDAL WEEK HARROGATE

10-12 September

Location: Harrogate Convention Centre

Exhibitors expected: 350

Special features: Terrace Café – serving selection of sandwiches and salad bar, drinks and snacks with outside seating, Champagne Bar, VIP Lounge, catwalks, Business Advice Area.

T: +44(0) 1423 770120

E: georgia@bridal-uk.com

W: www.bridalweek.com

To register: www.bridalweek.com

Keep checking website for updates on exhibitors and added show facilities.

BRIDAL WEEK HARROGATE

BRIDAL WEEK HARROGATE

EUROPEAN BRIDAL WEEK

CHIC, ADVENTUROUS AND EXCITING

US brand Colby John is creating something of a stir in the bridal arena, with brave attitudes and a determination to be different

After five years in bridal retailing, Colby John started designing wedding gowns in 2017 in Minneapolis, Minnesota for the first of the boutiques he opened. Word spread fast about the quality and individuality of his ‘in house’ range, and finding there was a demand, he launched a ‘private label’ collection that retailers were fast to pick up on.

Lockdown, which changed so many lives and promoted so people to diversify and travel in new directions, saw Colby focused on developing his first two collections, Atelier and Canvas, which firmly positioned his name on the designer map.

So what inspired him to make bridal his career?

“Initially, I went to school with a pre-med major and business minor. It was when I was transferring schools and had a gap between terms that I discovered our industry. Finding that I genuinely loved working with

brides, I decided that school wasn’t going to be for me, and dove headfirst into educating myself on bridal, learning how to work with a plethora of personalities, and how to make my clients feel the most beautiful. After five years of what I would call an apprenticeship, I decided it was time for me to do it on my own and that’s when I bought my first bridal boutique and started designing.”

The three labels that make up the Colby John portfolio today take inspiration from real brides that Colby works with daily. Our brand is a clear representation of our brides - who they are, what they stand for, and what they are asking for each season. As a whole, Colby John gowns are known for being a tad sexy and innovative in a way where we are always using the most unique fabrics on the most timeless tried-and-true patterns and silhouettes.

“My Atelier collection is for the bold and unique bride

with a bit more of a budget to play with as most of these gowns use the most detailed fabrics and beading we can get our hands on. We usually produce 20-30 styles in this annual collection and offer great customization options so we can create exactly what each bride is looking for! Typically, this collection retails between US$3,000 and US$6,000.

You’re going to find heavily beaded and intricate fabrics, chic and clean classics, and a few very interesting statement pieces that will garner the attention of any type of bride shopping for her wedding in 2023.          “Our Canvas collection is for our chic minimalist bride looking for something crisp and elegant. This is where you’ll fined various crepes, satins, mikados, and textured ivory fabrics like jacquard and brocade, with very light ivory and diamond white proving to be top choice for

many of our retailers. It is much easier to customize gowns from this collection as we don’t have to consider manipulating laces or beading when redesigning a piece for the bride. Most gowns in this collection of 30 styles a year range from US$2,200 to US$4,000.

“And third in our story is our private label range which many of our US retailers love! Super flexible margins, customization, and a very diverse pool of aesthetic throughout this 35-piece collection allow for our retailers to fill any gap in their buying season to make sure they have almost any type of bride covered. As this is a private label and not marketed online, our retailers have all the say in how they position the end prices.”

For the new season, Colby, who is exhibited at London Bridal Fashion Week at the ExCel, is looking to introduce as many ready-to-wear design elements taken from

what brides are wearing in their daily wardrobe, into his collections. “I feel it’s important that our brides feel like themselves when wearing our pieces and not an entirely different version of themselves,” he says. “I think the best way to achieve this is by incorporating unique sleeve and neckline ideas into traditional silhouettes. Also, who doesn’t love a good bow?

“And texture reigns supreme this season. I feel that as time goes on our brides are getting increasingly adventurous which makes my job as a designer that much more exciting! Innovation in technology has allowed us to develop fabrics not otherwise seen in bridal before, and I think the modern bride is growing to appreciate those special details in the fabrics we use.”  Throughout the year, Colby stays in regular contact with stockists through email campaigns with free marketing

material and of course, the company is present at many of the key shows throughout the buying season. Apart from London this month, Colby’s collection will be on show in Chicago, New York, Barcelona and Palm Beach. And when brides reach out to him directly, he points them to their nearest retailer for assistance and support. And moving forward? “It is harder now more than ever to be able to forecast what is going to be trending as it changes so fast these days. Budgets have either remained the same or gone up for us in the US but we are always willing to adapt. Remember that you never know what kind of bride may walk into your store and it is imperative to make sure you have a little bit of the crazy, the sexy, the bold, and that one dress you watched walk the runway that you swore wouldn’t sell. You never know what gown may transform your store.”

ELLIE OVER TO

Ihave been buying wedding dresses for over 16 years now, and as an ex-fashion buyer I did come to the table with a slightly different perspective and set of expectations. I expected to agree on minimum buys, agree areas of exclusivity, agree marketing support and agree a sales target to be delivered to retain all of this.

On the whole, I have been lucky that the labels I choose to work with have upheld their side of the bargain. There have been a few that didn’t and they are no longer on my rails for that reason.

For many retailers though, agreeing a contract is not easy as some suppliers will be as slippery as they can be and it can be confrontational. Our industry has changed and will continue to change over the next decade. We have seen a massive saturation of new suppliers in the marketplace with little trading history and morals as low as you can go.

Be sure you take time to investigate anyone you decide to buy. Companies House is an excellent place to start that investigative work – ask your bookkeeper for help if you need it.

Each country has its own version so you may need to look them up in the USA or Australia but make sure you do.

When buying new labels there are three key things to agree at the point of confirming your contract.

1. Agree your areas of exclusivity in miles and drive time.

2. Agree on-going minimums and financial payment terms.

3. Agree marketing support.

Agree in writing your area of exclusivity

I have to share a story that highlights why this is so vital. I have a long standing and well respected retailer close to my Beaconsfield shop. She and I have traded side by side for over 15 years. We have never tried to steal each other’s labels or tread on each other’s patch, we are 24 miles apart; 45 miles would be a different story as it’s a different shopping region and an approximate one-hour drive.

Anyway, last year one of her new labels sold their collection to a new shop a mere 19 miles away, less than 25 minutes in the car.

That raised two things in my head:

With only weeks to go until the buying season gets underway, there are many things to think about before reinvesting your cash for new stock. Here we get real with the nitty gritty confrontational bits we don’t like to discuss.

– Who the hell goes after and buys a label knowing it’s in a shop 19 miles away and a 25 minute drive? There is no gap in the market for the label and the only winner is the supplier.

– Why the hell did this label have so little respect for its current retailer to do this? (They were selling plenty of repeats.)

The longstanding retailer had agreed to her area of exclusivity but the supplier came up with some story or other!

Now in a 40-mile radius there are two shops selling this same label to the same number of customers, halving turnover for the first shop and reducing the return on investment for both.

The winner is the supplier who gets the same sales and maybe a few more but sells two sets of samples.

Agree in writing on your order form your area of exclusivity and drive time!

Agree on-going minimums and payment terms

An obvious one, but I know of shops that have had suppliers agree minimums then six months later say: “Oh, that’s per season”.

I also have examples where the supplier simply moves the goal posts

and with nothing in writing you have no recourse.

Always get your minimums per year written onto the order form at the very least.

Agree payment terms, never be afraid to talk about money. Agree first order payment, brides order payments, credit terms, etc. It can vary from placing a sample order and paying in full (if you are new) or paying 50% or paying 100% pre delivery or 100% 30 days after delivery.

Each label is unique. Know what you are buying and don’t be afraid to negotiate if it’s not right for you. Also, don’t be afraid to walk away if there is a non-negotiable attitude.

No label is so special that you can’t drop it or leave it. (Well, maybe one or two!).

You must agree minimums and payment terms before exchanging any money, get it written on the order form.

Agree the marketing support you will receive

Five years ago you could judge your suppliers’ marketing clout by how many pages they took in wedding magazines which fired brides to their websites and on to you. There

were also composite adverts which supported you as a brand partner.

Today you can judge your suppliers’ clout on Instagram, Facebook, Tiktok, Pinterest, etc. Their number of followers is an obvious one but what about their engagement, how do they interact on their account, do they collaborate and support?

Your challenge is making sure they will support you. For example, will they collaborate with you on launching the label? Will they post your trunk shows on their feed? Will they like and engage with your social content when you mention them? Or are you simply funding their brand expansion plans by posting on social media and name checking them for nothing in return?

You must agree all marketing support as part of your contract, get it in writing on your order form.

If you get those three key elements agreed early on and written on your order form then you stand a great chance of a positive working relationship.

That’s what this is all about after all, a joint partnership to grow your business and in turn theirs. Good luck everyone and happy shopping.

“If you get the three key elements agreed early on, and written on your order form then you stand a great chance of a positive working relationship.”

GETTING THE MOST FROM

WEDDING STATISTICS AND DATA

www.guidesforbrides.co.uk are known for producing accurate and informative data to help their clients identify opportunities. The founder of Guides for Brides, Alison Hargreaves, has shared her tips on helping you understand data, and spot fact from fiction.

Here are just a few of the questions that need to be asked about data collection in general:

1 The methodology used to collect the data: How many people were asked, who were they, how was the data collected? What questions were asked and how were they phrased?

2 The degree of bias: What bias (intentional or unintentional) can be expected as a result of the methodology?

3 The methodology used to ‘normalise’ the data: Has a data specialist with industry knowledge removed the data extremes?

4 The purpose or context of a report: Is it market analysis to establish authority and trust? Was it commissioned specifically to help your business? Has it been published to support a commercial agenda?

So, how do you apply this theory to data on the wedding industry? www.guidesforbrides.co.uk/ business-information/data-report2022-weddings

Methodology for data collection

Understanding where the data originated from will add important context.

For example: Data collected through surveys will reflect opinions of those with the time and

“For the most comprehensive figures, the ONS (Office for National Statistics) data is based on the number of weddings formally recorded in the UK, using raw data rather than opinions.”

inclination to complete surveys. Their answers can be influenced by positioning a question in a particular way, or by the time of day or time of year they receive the survey. Data collected through online platforms rather than surveys, using data that users have added to enquiry forms, budget planners or for setting up wedding websites, will give a more comprehensive and unbiased data set than a survey.

However, that data will still

only reflect the opinions of the segment of society that use that platform. Wedding planning portals by definition are predominantly used by couples planning their own weddings and may target a particular demographic. The data will reflect that, so while their data reports will be very relevant for businesses serving the same demographic, they won’t help you understand the wider picture across the whole industry.

For the most comprehensive figures, the ONS (Office for National Statistics) data is based on the number of weddings formally recorded in the UK, using raw data rather than opinions.

Practical tips: Always read the report’s methodology statement to work out how accurate the data is, whether it represents your target demographic, and to identify any unintentional bias.

The degree of bias

It is almost impossible to collect an unbiased data set, especially if it is

The high number of venues charging £10,000+ will mean that AVERAGE prices appear far higher than the TYPICAL price of between £4,000-£6,000.

Couples are booking later and are far more reliant on searching for venues and suppliers based on availability, however....

...the increase in numbers of couples getting married on peak dates (Saturdays in the summer) points towards a surplus of venue choice.

collected via a survey, so your aim should be to establish the degree of bias in order to understand what the data is telling you. For example:

A level of bias can be expected if there is an incentive such as a prize draw for completing a survey. A company will see a stronger bias if they use data from their own customers rather than a random sample.

Methodology for normalising data

To understand the full context of data, an analyst will consider a wide range of summary statistics.

Common helpful statistics include the mode (the most co mmon answer that is given) as well as the mean (the average of all answers) and confidence intervals (typical ranges of answers).

However, most businesses don’t have the time, inclination or access to the raw data, so rely on others interpreting the data for a particular purpose and presenting it, often as averages. To ensure a-typical answers don’t skew the results, it is helpful to remove any nonrepresentative extremes before calculating averages.

For example, by removing data from couples with a wedding budget of over £100,000 or under £1,000 (weddings managed by wedding planners/register office weddings) the remaining data

becomes more representative and relevant of couples planning their own wedding online.

The output from a data model is only as good as the data you feed it. Starting with the most relevant and representative data is key.

The purpose or context of a report Data tends to be presented to businesses in the form of a preanalysed report.

However, data can be manipulated and presented to support opposing arguments so it is crucial to understand the main purpose behind the report.

Where two reports from the same sector show different results, look again. The data may be identical, but it is the way it is presented and the parts that have been highlighted that are different. Just as with a half full or half empty glass, the amount of liquid is the same, but it can be presented in different ways.

When making business decisions, biased reports can be more damaging than helpful, but by understanding the author’s agenda, it is easy to know how much you should trust and rely on the source.

So, how can you use data to help your business?

First and foremost; trust your own data as you know it is accurate.

Advice to any wedding business

would be to gather all the information they can from weddings they have hosted and enquiries they have received; relevant statistics will include popular days of the week, prices charged and lead generation methods, and more.

Use that data to compare to industry reports or statistics.

• Look for any differences, anomalies and similarities.

• Wherever there is a difference, ask “why?”.

• If you are confident that the data is unbiased, relevant and accurate, the differences may highlight opportunities you are missing, and others have spotted.

The more data you have, the more it will tell you. So, if you aren’t already collecting the most valuable data from your weddings, it’s not too late to start.

At www.guidesforbrides.co.uk/, we are passionate about data. We understand the value it can bring to our clients and how it can help shape our business.

Two of our team are supported by Multiverse and Goldman Sachs in finding the most accurate ways to analyse data for our clients, and we work with MBA students from Oxford University, Said Business School and London School of Economics on specific data projects.

STAYING ONE STEP AHEAD

Helena Cotter is the expert when it comes to training –for bridal shop owners and their staff. Here are her top tips for standing out in the marketplace

your premises, your reputation – You!

– Being innovative

– Becoming a leader, not a follower

– Staying on top of industry trends

– Having a highly visible and interactive presence on social media and your website

Why is it important to try and stay ahead of any competition?

Any business which is going to healthily compete with another to increase their sales and grow their customer base needs to evolve their marketing strategies regularly, resources allowing.

and your business and any areas you may need to step it up to healthily compete in.

Recognising who your customers are – and who they are not To understand this, ask your customers what matters to them, and as I always say, what is important to them. Customer surveys are a great way to find this out.

Being able to focus on which brides are yours and which may be better off to go to another boutique is crucial.

Let’s start with the basics. What is meant by staying ahead of the competition?

– Becoming more successful

– Sustaining economic growth

– Being/maintaining the no 1 spot as the go-to boutique for brides and their guests

– Knowing your customers

– Consistently delivering achievable high levels of service and care, whilst focusing on managing customer expectations

– Playing to your strengths, for instance, your labels, your team,

More customers = more of the market share. And, of course, more sales = more profit.

Maintaining a competitive edge is therefore vital, and dedicating time to it will help you win more business, keep your business fresh and motivate your customers.

Who are your competition?

Sometimes businesses you think are direct competition in fact, are not. Perception without reality is nothing.  Analysing other businesses strengths and weaknesses will help you identify and pinpoint any areas in which you can differentiate yourself

So, qualifying customers is of paramount importance. This is not turning business away, more honing in and focusing on your true customer.

Being different

What ultimately is going to make you stand out from any competition? To a greater or lesser degree, all bridal boutiques offer similar experiences.  It’s the little things that count and which will give your customers a very good reason to choose your boutique over someone else’s.

Think about why your customers are your customers. Going over and above in terms of customer care,

service and after care will help you shine. Exude confidence in your business and your service. It will help your customers develop a feeling of trust and security.

Ensure the shopping and buying experience is simple and easy for your customers. When something appears difficult or time consuming, customers can switch off. You do not have to over deliver; recognise when good is good enough.

For further information, take a look at the interview I recently took part in with Andy from Wedding Trader. We spoke in detail about this very subject. (see below video)

Image conscious

We live in an extremely image conscious world today. How do you look? Does your image reflect your business? Being relatable will help foster trust and a feeling of safety for your customers.

– Update your boutique. Painting and wallpapering don’t need to cost the earth. Move stock around regularly. Perhaps consider a change of logo, paperwork and branded bags/carriers.

Some boutiques you may consider are competition can often be stuck in their ways and resistant to change. This is something you can

monopolise on.

– Plan for growth today. Any business which practices this will succeed over a business which stands still.

– Have a clear vision of where you plan to be in one, three and five years’ time.

Marketing your business

As a nation, we are not great at shouting about how good we are. We tend to shy away from it. Instead, why not tell your customers/potential customers who you are, what makes you so great and why they will find their dream dress with you.

As I always say, be proud of

“It’s the little things that count and which will give your customers a very good reason to choose your boutique over someone else’s.”

your prices and your dresses. Your customers are who your potential competitors are after. When you fully understand your customers wants and needs – and expectations, you are able to offer the perfect fit, so to speak.

Having said that, nothing in life is 100% perfect. Don’t beat yourself up if you don’t succeed at everything, all the time. It’s not possible.

– Take small steps which will help you and your team grow steadily.

– Offering out of this world customer service will help you grow sales.  It is said that when you use video content regularly to promote your business, any new offers, exciting news, showcasing new collections, happy customers etc, you will be uppermost in your new customers minds.

It can have the effect of driving more traffic to your business and videos can easily be made on a smartphone so no need for fancy cameras. Digital marketing can help you stand out, especially in a crowded market.

When finances and time allow, it may be prudent to consider investing in a digital marketer. They can be worth their weight in gold.

Your website

It’s super important to maintain and promote your website. Often, social media takes over and a website can be left to gather cobwebs, which is a shame as a website is effectively your shop window.

A website is where your customers to be can learn more about your business. Your website will help you build credibility and help set you apart from any perceived competition. Working as the backbone of your online presence, every piece of information, all communications and content will help drive customers to your business.

Deliver a very clear message when detailing your brand, your collections and business ethos together with a meet the owner/team page. Customers love a back story. It adds a very real human dimension to all you do, which makes you more relatable.

Invest in your staff

When your staff are trained, skilled, confident and motivated, they will help drive the business forward. Creating a healthy, structured and well run working atmosphere, with potential for career development will help everyone when embracing the new normal in terms of how you want your business run. Any competition may not have the

knowledge, vision and drive required to achieve and maintain such high standards.

Create a harmonious working environment where everyone is valued, trusted and enthusiastic to learn and grow. Your so-called competition may try to replicate what you do, but remember, they cannot replicate your staff or yourself. They are not you!

It is always advisable to keep that so-called competition in your peripheral vision, however, avoid fixating on them. Never copy them. Concentrate your mind on your own business. When you put all your energies into your own livelihood, you’ll reap the rewards.

Healthy competition is good because it drives you to keep improving, growing and succeeding.

This year, Helena celebrates her 20th anniversary in business. The training courses she runs are perfect for either brand new or experienced staff members, and suit all sizes of new and existing businesses and budgets.

T: +44 (0)1582 451238 /+44 (0)7896

944759

E: info@helenacotter.co.uk

W: www.helenacotter.co.uk

“Your website will help you build credibility and help set you apart from any perceived competition.”

A NEW LIFE FOR AN OLD PHONE

Do you have a bunch of discarded smartphones in the stationery drawer?

Phones that are perfectly usable but were replaced by more current models when your contract was renewed?

There are lots of ways you can put these abandoned phones to good use, exploiting their excellent cameras and touchscreens in your business. Here are a few:

SECURITY CAMERA

Why buy an expensive surveillance camera when you can use the one on your old smartphone? Just install a suitable app and you can keep an eye on the shop from your current phone wherever you are.

A wide range of apps is available both for iOS and Android - take a look at the alfred.camera website (yes, that url is correct) for a free app that works on both.

All you have to do is install the app and sign in on both phones. Set the old phone as the camera and your current phone as the viewer, and the view from the camera is streamed to the viewer via wifi and the internet.

The motion detection feature triggers instant notifications to be sent to the viewer if movement in the field of

view is detected. Two-way talk means you can speak to visitors or staff. A lowlight filter provides security even with the lights off.

You may need a tripod to hold the camera phone securely in position: take a look at the Joby Gorillapod, which has flexible arms that can be wrapped around posts or shelves to place the camera phone where it has the best view (from £32 at joby.com).

WEBCAM

If you have been spending a lot of time on Zoom recently, you will know that the videoconferencing facilities on the average laptop are notoriously rubbish, with very low quality cameras and microphones. Any TV newscast these days will feature at least one talking head that looks as though it was filmed in the 1950s in a snowstorm.

You can improve matters hugely by mounting your previous phone next to the laptop screen and using one of its excellent cameras and its voiceoptimised microphones instead. Step 1 is to download an app for the phone and a client for the laptop. A good system called DroidCam X is available at dev47apps.com - it works on Android and Apple phones but sadly only on Windows or Linux computers. The software enables you to watch

the video on the laptop screen while filming you on the phone. The link can be via wifi or USB, but USB is preferable partly for an uninterruptible connection but also to prevent your phone’s batteries running out.

The free version of DroidCam X films at standard definition and has ads - the Pro version enables high definition, autofocus, zoom, rotate/flip/mirror and several other adjustments.

Step 2 is to attach the phone to the laptop screen. One Ten Design’s Mountie laptop clip holds any phone or tablet firmly in place, which is useful not only to use the phone as a webcam but also as an extended screen – see below (£22 at mobilefun.com).

If you have an Apple Mac running the latest version of MacOS, plus a recent iPhone, you can use the new Continuity Camera feature to replace the laptop’s lacklustre camera with the superb iPhone system. And, with the Magsafe magnetic connector system, you can mount the phone on the laptop using Belkin’s iPhone Mount (£30 at belkin. com).

DASH CAM

Mount an old phone on your car’s windscreen or dashboard to record any incidents on your journey for which you may require legally-acceptable

It seems that people never bin their old smart phones, so now’s the time to put them to good use at work, and at home, says Chris Partridge

evidence.

Several apps are available, but one of the most highly-rated is Droid Dashcam from DroidCoolApps (available for Android on Google Play).

After installing the app, you will need to mount the phone on the windscreen with a suitable gizmo - take a look at the Belkin universal phone holder, which attaches to the windscreen with a suction cup and holds the phone firmly in a spring-loaded grip (£20 at belkin.com). Don’t forget to plug in the USB charging cable as recording video takes a lot of power.

Video resolution, frames per second bitrate can all be easily adjusted to optimise the amount of data being stored in the phone’s memory. The

system can be set to start recording automatically when the phone’s motion sensor is triggered.

TRACKPAD AND KEYBOARD

You can use your old phone as a wireless trackpad and keyboard for your computer, so when you are showing promotional material to clients you can stand back and let them see the screen easily.

The software is at remotemous.net: just download and install the app, make sure the phone and the computer are on the same wifi network and click to connect. It’s as easy as that.

The phone screen will be transformed into a trackpad with left and right-click buttons, allowing you to move the cursor easily round the

computer screen. You can also bring up an on-screen keyboard if you need to enter URLs and so forth.

The app is free but the pro version adds a whole lot of useful features.

EXTENDED COMPUTER SCREEN

Why not use your old phone or laptop to make your computer screen bigger?

Mount the smartphone next to the computer screen, install a suitable app such as Spacedesk (spacedesk.net) and the phone’s screen will mirror the computer screen. Change to ‘extended screen’ and you can drag and drop stuff from your computer to your phone exactly as if the phone was part of the computer. It is even possible to add several phones and tablets to form a video wall – very cool.

Security Alfredcamera

Security Joby

Dashcam Belkin

Every issue we will be bringing you the latest information of new legalities that could affect your business. This is where advice from the experts really matters...

Trademark protection… ‘Checkmate’ for Louis Vuitton

intensive, geographically widespread and long-standing” the use has been.

Last Autumn the European Court gave a decision that Louis Vuitton had been fighting to avoid since 2015; the Court decided that the company’s ‘Damier Azur’, the chess board pattern used on accessories such as handbags and purses, lacked the required distinctiveness to be a registered trademark in the EU. Acquired distinctiveness requires that a significant proportion of the relevant public seeing the trade mark would identify the accessories as originating from Louis Vuitton.

For this purpose a range of factors are considered, including market share, the amount invested to promote the trade mark and “how

An important factor for Louis Vuitton was to prove acquired distinctiveness throughout the EU. It was recognised that it would be “unreasonable” to provide proof for each individual EU member state and that evidence could apply to multiple EU member states. For example, Louis Vuitton could have grouped certain EU member states together and acted as if they were one distribution network. Alternatively a “geographical, cultural or linguistic proximity” could mean that the public in one EU member state is sufficiently aware of goods in another EU member state. In contrast, the submission of evidence for a substantial part or a majority of the EU or covering all EU member states bar one would not be sufficient. The General Court ruled that the evidence provided was insufficient, particularly in respect of Lithuania, Latvia, Slovakia, Slovenia and Bulgaria.

Louis Vuitton argued

that “consumers engage in homogenous behaviour as regards to luxury brands” throughout the EU due to travel and the internet. However, this was rejected as “too general”. The Court also decided that Louis Vuitton had not sufficiently substantiated its argument that geographical and cultural proximity meant the evidence for Poland and Sweden could apply to Lithuania and Latvia and evidence for Romania could apply to Slovakia, Slovenia and Bulgaria. As a result, acquired distinctiveness had not been shown throughout the EU.

Acquired distinctiveness in the UK

The EU covers 27 member states and showing acquired distinctiveness sufficiently throughout the EU appears to be difficult (for example, as shown by Nestlé in respect of an unbranded four finger Kit Kat chocolate bar). In contrast, for the UK (which has the same legal requirement that a mark that is “devoid of distinctive character” cannot be registered, unless it has acquired

Louis Vitton may be one of the biggest internationally-known accessories brands, but it no longer has trademark protection for one of its designs

distinctive character through use), it may be slightly easier to register trademarks as evidence of acquired distinctiveness throughout the UK only.

Evidence for a certain region only (such as Scotland) would not usually suffice. But this does not mean that evidence is needed for every UK city. Further, the guide issued by the UK Intellectual Property Office provides an example of a trademark for a Welsh word. This may only require evidence of acquired distinctiveness for a substantial proportion of those who speak Welsh in Wales. Therefore, in theory, it may be easier to meet the territory threshold for acquired distinctiveness in the UK.

Why apply for a trade mark?

Increasingly, businesses are applying to register non-traditional trade marks such as shape, colour or sound marks. From October 2017 (in the

EU) and January 2019 (in the UK), it has no longer been a requirement that trademarks must be able to be represented graphically (for example, shown as a word or logo).

As examples, the relevant UK and EU laws state that a trademark may include designs, colours, sounds, etc. Accordingly, the requirement is now that the trademark is capable of: “Distinguishing the goods/services of one undertaking from another and being represented in a way that means the subject matter of the protection is clear and precise.”

As a result, businesses are applying to register designs as trademarks; this is because a design registration lasts for a maximum of 25 years (if renewed every five years) and a trademark can be renewed indefinitely every ten years.

A design registration has to be new and produce a different overall impression compared to any earlier

designs available to the public; and it must be made within one year of the design entering the public domain which is not the case in respect of a trademark.

Take home point

Businesses with non-traditional trademarks (that can be shown clearly and precisely, and are able to sufficiently distinguish the business’s goods/services as originating from its business) should consider applying to register them whilst at the same time remembering that design registration (if relevant) may provide an easier way to securing intellectual property registration. © 2023 Fox Williams LLP

Scott Steinberg is a senior associate and Stephen Sidkin, a partner at Fox Williams LLP (www.foxwilliams.com)

2

An agent’s entitlement

A significant change to the interpretation of the entitlement to commission of commercial agents in the EU may also impact on UK agents and principals

In a recent judgment of the Court of Justice of the European Union, a definitive stance has been taken for the first time as to the entitlement of a commercial agent to receive commission on repeat transactions of the same kind with the same customer under the EU Agents Directive.

Various key provisions in the

Directive and the Regulations make it clear when it is not open for principal and agent to derogate in their agreement from the statutory entitlements afforded to the agent.

One example of this concerns the agent’s entitlement to back commission – that is, commission on confirmed orders which are then unfulfilled by the principal, who is to blame.

Often, where an agent is appointed on an exclusive basis, the written agency agreement will state that the agent is to receive commission on orders received by the principal from customers who the agent previously introduced.

In turn, this reflects the position under the Directive and the Commercial Agents Regulations. Indeed, it could be claimed that whilst

it was arguable that there was no express prohibition from derogation, it was to be implied into the legislation that derogation from this right was not possible. The recent Court of Justice judgment means that this is no longer the case.

Judgment

The case before the Court of Justice was concerned with an agency agreement in place in Poland for financial intermediation services. The agent, Rigall Arteria Management (RAM) had been the agent for the Bank Handlowy between 1999 and 2015.

The Bank decided to terminate the agency and RAM demanded that the Bank provide it with information on the commission that had been payable to RAM over the span of the agency. The Bank refused on the basis that this information had already been provided during the course of the agency and so there was no further reason to do so. The Bank also claimed that the information was covered by banking secrecy. RAM commenced litigation to try and force the supply of the information needed in order to

calculate commission owed.

Ultimately, the Polish Supreme Court asked the Court of Justice whether it was possible for the parties to derogate in the agency agreement from the right of an agent to receive commission for a transaction that is entered into with a customer that the agent has previously introduced.

The Court of Justice decided that the provision in the Directive had to be interpreted as allowing derogation, given the lack of express wording in the Directive to make it clear that derogation was prohibited. Further, the Court of Justice appeared to justify its decision on the basis that even if the provision were to be interpreted as prohibiting derogation, this would not necessarily lead to increased protection for commercial agents – the lodestone of the Directive and, in turn, the Regulations.

However, the Court of Justice’s judgment has been the subject of criticism both inside the EU and in the UK on the basis that the Court of Justice:

- misinterpreted the relevant part of

the Directive

- as a result flawed reasoning was put forward in its judgment

- failed to address the issue of the potential effect of inequality of bargaining power between principal and agent.

Indeed, it is to be hoped that the opportunity will present itself at some point in the future for the Court of Justice to reverse its decision.

Where does this leave us?

Whilst for English courts the judgment is of persuasive authority only, it does raise the possibility that in respect of UK-based principals and agents the entitlement to commission on repeat orders can be excluded by agreement.

In respect of an agency agreement between an EU-based principal and a UK-based agent, the agent will need to be alert to the possibility that the principal could take advantage of the Court of Justice judgment and claim that this means that the agent is not entitled to commission on repeat transactions in the absence of an express provision in the agency agreement that the agent is so entitled.

Where the principal is based in the UK and the agent is based in the EU, it would seem that it is open to the parties to agree to exclude the agent’s entitlement to commission for repeat transactions.

Wedding Trader is working closely with Fox Williams under whose care fashion businesses flourish with everything from securing intellectual property rights to renegotiating agency agreements and commercial leases. (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

© 2023 Fox Williams LLP

Millie Pierce is an associate and Stephen Sidkin is a partner at Fox Williams LLP (www.foxwilliams.com)

“Advice needed. A week ago we had a bride in with a couple of friends. They were incredibly loud and rude, and demanded something to drink as soon as they sat down, criticised the décor of the shop and went to lengths to tell me that every other boutique they’d been to treated them like royalty and also offered them large discounts. What, they wanted to know, before even looking at the dresses, discount would we offer and what encouragement to purchase, like shoes and a veil. They were also saying they would be posting their views of boutiques they had been to on social media. I told them I had had an urgent call and had to leave the shop, and suggested they call and remake the appointment. They left and I am concerned about what to do if they reappear.”

“I’m new to bridal and new to retail. I’d like to set up some sort of ongoing relationship with other local businesses, like the florist and a hairdresser, but have not the slightest idea of what I should be offering them – or expect in return.”

“Are other shops having the same question come up repeatedly – the one about sustainability? I don’t know how to deal with this and in speaking to some of my suppliers, they don’t either. I read the Trader column about claims being made that can’t be substantiated and quite honestly, I find the consequences of getting it wrong terrifying. Who does one talk to about the way forward in bridal when we have fabrics that are man-made, and packaging that doesn’t meet the green criteria?

And finally

Ups and downs, ins and outs, but so much to look forward to

“I want to share a cheering story. A recent bride, whose wedding had been postponed twice and who got pregnant in between times, recently tied the knot in a small, intimate ceremony – nothing like the original event – and I mean event – planned. Without any discussion, I credited her the cost of the original dress and then sorted out something simple that worked with her bump. It was half the price but what else could I do. Well, this young lady went to the local newspaper and told them about her experiences with us and as a result they ran a story. Because of that, we have had a number of phone calls, emails and new appointments. I couldn’t be happier!”

Got a view you want to share with like-minded others? Want suggestions from industry colleagues? Email me – susi@rogol-goodkind.com – and we’ll get the conversation going. We are for retailers, and about retailers.

ELBETH GILLIS

FINE ENGLISH TULLE

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