Wedding Trader - issue 36

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IT’S HAPPENING ALREADY

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WE SHARE THE TOP TIPS FOR SUCCESS

HERE FOR THEBRITISHGREAT BRIDALWEAR RETAILERS

BRITISH BY DESIGN

‘40 Years of Love’

Introducing our stunning new Romantica bridal collection, a celebration of 40 years making brides dreams come true.

For more information about becoming a stockist, please email: sales@romanticaofdevon.co.uk

Not the easiest of times in this industry of ours, and many retailers are concerned about the immediate future with, it would appear, fewer weddings on the drawing board, and therefore fewer appointments and a slow down of sales. Perhaps we were all over-enthusiastic about what the post-pandemic days would deliver, but one thing is very clear... we need to study the market, analyse our position and consider redefining the personality and offering of our businesses. We need to stand up and stand out and be recognised as being different because what makes us different makes us special and being special gets us noticed.

Things will not go back to the way they were; being one of a crowd is not a comfortable place to be – we need to change gear and come up with clever and carefully-conceived ideas. This is, indeed, the age of individuality, and it is vital to communicate your plus points to your potential audience. Examine their interests – they go much deeper, in many, than finding the perfect dress; they want to know the wheres and whys and hows of the names behind the label, the attitudes, the production methods. Budgets are a key influencer, too, of course, while the cost of living (ditto weddings) spirals.

The forthcoming Harrogate show will introduce many a new name and fresh talent who have taken all this into consideration. Spend your time there wisely and find those like-minded labels.

Andy Allen Art Director

“There’s so much talk about protecting the planet and seeing bridal helping is inspiring.” (p52)

Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding

“A new shop that started from scratch and is already an award winner is worth learning from.” (p68)

Martha Cooke Head of Ad sales

“It looks like destination weddings are of growing importance. Peta’s choice of frocks is wonderfully different.” (p72)

THE BEST NEWS OF ALL

2024 sees White Gallery relocate to London’s The Truman Brewery in the capital’s fashionable Shoreditch, hosting the hottest new designers with many industry icons. And along with a new venue comes a new date –get it in the planner now – 8th and 9th May.

Event Director, Georgia Flynn, says: “Our retailers are ahead of the game and want designers who match their energy. White Gallery 2024 will deliver a pioneering lineup of designers from across the globe.

“We’ll be announcing the first names soon, so keep an eye on our social media”.

And with the new venue comes a new and thoroughly contemporary identity. “Our new branding makes a bold statement: we’re not following convention and have chosen to step outside our comfort zone,” says Ella O’Keefe, Head of Marketing.

“This new era of White Gallery deserves a strong, yet sleek look and I’m delighted with the final product. The branding shows intention, and our 2024 show is going to be next level”.

Tickets for the event are not available yet. Visit bridalweek.com/whitegallery for updates.

TALKING POINT

The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now

GRACE LOVES LACE

Australia label Grace Loves Lace has been at the forefront of the nontraditional bridal era, and never one for corsetry, ballgowns and overlyembellished heavy dresses. Founder and Creative Director, Megan Ziems, is focused on effortlessly beautiful non-fussy gowns, coupled with ecoconscious production. The latest gown, Mrs Jones, is a nod to the chic bride who loves minimalism, and features innovative design techniques to mimic a corset-like bodice, without any boning or restriction.

“Every detail of Jones is considered and intentional; her waist seam cinches in to emphasize an hourglass silhouette, vertical seams elongate the body and a fitted bodice shapes and supports the bust. She’s been designed using our buttery double layer stretch crepe to mold and adapt to the bride’s body,” explains Ziems.

The Mrs Jones campaign features international model sensation Gigi Paris, who shot the campaign whilst visiting Australia recently.

Jones will be available as part of both Grace Loves Lace made-to-order and ready-to-wear offering in sizes XS to XXXL. Visit graceloveslace.co.uk to find out more. Your brides will love you!

DANDO LONDON

Christine Dando continues to be the driving force behind the Dando London brand – her vision, her passion and love for bridal designing keeps the label one step ahead of the curve. The Desert Bloom Collection offers an eclectic mix of contemporary classics to gowns with beautiful lace and glittery embellishments – every glistening bead and pearl is placed to ensure that all brides feel like a movie star on their wedding day. The latest collection, true to Dando style, is captured in stunning photography – shot in the intoxicating Desert of Dubai with Christine supervising every image. +44 1420 23490 | dandolondon.com

PERFECT PAIRINGS

While many brides are blazing their own trail when it comes to styling for their big day, there is a burgeoning movement towards more traditional and coordinated bridal looks. Cohesive themes and details are very much

returning to the fore, with dainty features such as crystals and pearls topping the hot list.

Shoes and accessories are the easiest way of pulling a look together and Rainbow Club’s collection of mix and matches include

Reem Acra

Always different, always special, always stand out statement makers. The new collection from New York’s Reem Acra again goes beyond design and creates an emotional connection to the bride and her story. Think old Hollywood love stories elevated to fit the modern woman and her individuality. Fairy tale ballgowns mix with sleek corsets. Plunging necklines and hidden slits accentuate the bride’s figure. A touch of crystals completes the looks. reemacra.com

Image below by Fadi Acra, courtesy of Reem Acra

intricate lace details, delicate embroidery and luxe embellishments.

For those with a specific colour palette in mind, the brand’s innovative Colour Studio service allows almost any of their shoes and bags to be

hand-dyed, so MOBs/ MOGs, bridesmaids and partygoers get to complete a look, while wedding shoes can get a second-life after the big day. Rainbow Club will be at Harrogate, on stand M40. Visit rainbowclub.co.uk

PAUL ZENI COUTURE

The new Paul Zeni collection of some 30 designs covers an array of styles from the traditional ballgown and romantic A-lines to elegant fitted dresses in different fabrics and beaded laces. There are also some simply stunning sculpted silhouettes where the lines are clean and the look is crisp. Make a date to see them at Harrogate, stand M30.  +44 (0)20 7871 2299 | info@ paulzeni.co.uk  | paulzeni.co.uk

First Person

Laura Daly consults with AI to see if a reason can be found for the current and drastic slow down in the bridalwear business

Ithought I’d ask AI (that’s Artificial Intelligence) where all the brides have gone. It seems the answer is nothing we didn’t already know, and a sign, if ever you needed it, to think deeply about every aspect of your business and how best to future-proof the world of independent bridal retailing…

A strange phenomenon has occurred in the world of bridal fashion: an unexpected drop in clients looking for a wedding gown. The drastic fall has caused tremors through the wedding industry, leaving shops perplexed and looking for reasons while hunting for possible solutions. In this article, we will delve into the details of the situation, investigating the various possible causes for the sudden downturn.

Cultural dynamics in transition

The shifting dynamics of contemporary culture are the first issue we confront in our attempt to analyse the fall in wedding dress sales. Weddings are no longer bound by societal standards and expectations. Modern couples are adopting a variety of lifestyles and looking for new ways to display their love. With the advent of destination weddings, intimate ceremonies and non-traditional celebrations, the emphasis on formal wedding wear has waned, resulting in fewer clients actively looking for traditional wedding dresses.

Changing consumer behaviour in the digital age

The digital world has transformed the way people purchase, and the bridal gown industry is not immune to these disruptive winds. Online platforms, virtual boutiques and bridal markets have given brides-to-be unparalleled access to a vast assortment of wedding gown options.

The simplicity of browsing among many styles, along with the ease of online sales and virtual try-ons, has

transformed the consumer landscape, lowering foot traffic in traditional stores and negatively harming the entire customer base.

Economic concerns

The impact of economic concerns is another significant factor contributing to the lack of clients in the bridal gown market. Couples are tightening their purse strings and re-evaluating their wedding expenditures in an era of financial uncertainty and worldwide recessions. Wedding gowns, which are frequently expensive, are exposed to cost-cutting techniques. Some couples choose less expensive alternatives, including off-the-rack gowns or borrowing from friends and relatives. A key driver in the reduction of wedding dress sales is the desire to allocate resources to other components of the wedding or to maintain financial security.

Changing fashion trends

Wedding dresses are no exception to the ever-changing world of fashion. Gowns have undergone a transformation, embracing diversity, inclusivity and unique aesthetics. Modern brides now have a wider range of alternatives because of the emergence of minimalist designs, bohemian influences and non-traditional bridalwear. As a result, traditional wedding gown retailers may face the problem of harmonising their offers with the changing tastes and preferences of today’s women.

The influence of external factors

When assessing the current status of wedding dress retailing, the impact of external variables cannot be neglected. The worldwide COVID-19 pandemic has left a long shadow over the wedding business, forcing couples to downsize, postpone, or cancel their wedding preparations entirely. Many couples have chosen smaller,

more personal ceremonies or virtual weddings, further reducing demand for expensive wedding gowns.

Conclusion

A number of causes might be attributed to the declining number of clients in the bridal gown market. Shifting cultural dynamics, changing internet buying habits, economic considerations, shifting fashion trends and the impact of external causes such as the Covid-19 epidemic have all contributed to the restructuring of the bridal fashion environment.

To traverse these difficult times effectively, wedding dress retailers must embrace innovation, broaden their offers and match themselves with the changing demands and expectations of modern brides. Retailers can plan a route towards regeneration and growth in the wedding dress industry by responding to changing market conditions and identifying the underlying causes of consumer decrease.

We could debate the cost/ benefit ratio of the lockdowns another time but, personally, I believe that the lengthy closures of the economy have played a major part in our current dwindling sales. About now, we would normally be selling dresses for weddings in the later part of the year - but all those dates were of course allocated to the brides whose weddings were postponed. In addition, it seems all the 2024 girls think they have all the time in the world.

All I can say is that I’m an eternal optimist and I shall certainly be doing my utmost to “traverse these difficult times effectively”. Possibly, more than anything, by simply hanging in there… and grinning and bearing it. Please grin with me. Let’s grin together until we come out the other side.

“With the advent of destination weddings, intimate ceremonies and non-traditional celebrations, the emphasis on formal wedding wear has waned”

EXPECTATIONS AND REALITY

We live and die by this rule, don’t we? ‘The customer is always right’. Even when the customer is absolutely wrong, unreasonable and difficult. Because, let’s face it, not everyone is reasonable and honourable. It isn’t always a deliberate deception, although that can happen (a bride wanted to return her dress because the wedding didn’t happen – yet I had already seen her wedding photos online). Sometimes however, it is a denial to face facts or take accountability. But apparently we have to accept that we are in the wrong regardless, or face the peril of a bad review and, in some instances, a campaign of bullying and intimidation until we give in and bow to all demands.

The Cost of Living Crisis is a concern for us all, not just for our customers. We, too, are facing soaring costs, and we have bills and staff to pay, plus a living to make. We may love our job, but it is a job, and at the end of the month we need a pay cheque. Isn’t it unfair and bizarre that we would take a hit to our finances to appease someone who has very unrealistic demands, or to put it more bluntly, is totally unreasonable?

Often issues aren’t immediately obvious; an innocent off-the-cuff comment or a mis-interpreted message can play on the mind, especially when there are 1,000 things on a to-do list. As bridalwear retailers, we perhaps don’t always recognise the stress that a bride may be under when they come through our doors to collect a dress or start a fitting, but we are all very aware that we sometimes are just in the firing line or seen as a place to let off steam.

The reaction

Sometimes all the emotions of the upcoming day just bubble up, especially when the bride is standing in her dress, and is suddenly her own personification of the wedding day build up. We all know this – we have seen it a thousand times before – and we remain calm, because we have the experience to show empathy, and the wisdom not to take it personally. We are all human, and we all know what it is like to feel overwhelmed, and not one of us knows what another person is really going through. But 99 times out of 100, we are able to be a shoulder to cry on, a tissue is at hand, a hug is required if it is appropriate and agreed on

A smiling bride may have said yes to the dress but that does not mean the road ahead is paved with honesty, integrity and pleasure. Sue Lovell on things that can go horribly wrong

verbally or in writing by both parties, and a weight is then lifted. A very positive experience can come from a wedding dress wobble.

But what happens when all the empathy, understanding and wise words of experience fall on deaf ears? What happens when the bride in the dress in front of us wants the impossible?

I once had a Mexican standoff where a customer had told me her budget was £3,000, and loved a £2,500 dress. It turned out her budget was much, much less, and while there was no wiggle room on her part, the dress was not negotiable by that amount on mine. She stood in the dress saying repeatedly: “I want it,” whilst her mum looked at the floor. I was saying that we could look at other gowns and that was the start of the most uncomfortable 30 minutes of my retail life.

And that’s often at the heart of it. Money. But who will be paying the price? There may not be money left in the bridal pot to pay, and the shop may have long gone past the point where a profit has been made, and it is going to cost them to solve a problem that is not of their making – one that is clearly covered fully in the terms.

“We are not responsible for weight loss or weight gain” – we are very clear about it, but then we feel absolutely horrible when the situation arises. It is a taboo subject and we risk so much when it is tackled. It is the same when a wedding is cancelled, we cover it in our terms, but it still a dreadful situation when an understandably emotional customer wants a refund, because “those Ts & Cs don’t really apply to me”. But they really do, they have to, if we are to stay in business.

What we all dread

Recently, a store I’m familiar with had

a very upset bride, and her version of events differ wildly from the staff. A dress purchased pre-lockdown, in the sale, in the right size at that time, is now unsuitable for the bride as it is no longer going to fit for the new wedding date. Alterations were possible, but were chargeable. The dress is made to fit and all is well, but the shop did take a hit on the alteration costs, as they understood the bride’s despair. They had a very happy customer, and they went over and above to solve the problem, at their own cost.

Fast forward a couple of weeks, and the bride is concerned that the dress will not fit once again. Another appointment proves it, and there is nowhere to go with it now, without

not always how it is delivered.

A better response

I remember carefully choosing the words in my head for one beautiful bride, when she saw her back reflection, and immediately shouted: “Good god, look at my backfat, why didn’t you tell me?”.

I stumbled over my tongue as I started to reassure her it was all good, and I would sort it. She looked absolutely horrified, saying: “This is down to me to sort out, not you”.

She returned three weeks later, and her dress fitted like a glove, no alterations required. She said that she knew she had put on a few pounds, and she knew the dress had previously fitted, so why on earth would I take responsibility for that? I explained that it was a delicate area of discussion, and I would never want to offend anyone. She responded saying that she was a plain speaking person, and didn’t need “smoke blown up her bum” as she was very self aware, and confident enough to “take it”.

extensive alterations. The options are put to the bride, as gently as possible, to a) buy another dress, b) pay for the extra alterations c) ….well, let’s not go there.

The bride demands a full refund or exchange, which is refused.  A one-star review immediately follows, telling people to avoid this store as they have destroyed her wedding day, and sell dresses that are not fit for purpose.

How would you respond? Or would you have carried on taking the additional costs on the nose, to appease a customer and avoid a bad review?

I have been in similar positions myself, in as much as I have had customers who no longer fitted quite as snuggly into their dresses as they previously did. The way forward depends on how the news is received,

But not everyone is confident, especially at a time of a wedding, and stress and self-doubt take no prisoners. One gorgeous girl came into my studio after lockdown and announced her dress would now be lucky to get past her thighs, and said: “Tell me my options – do I have to buy a new dress?” She was expecting the worst news, and was prepared to hear it. We added some pretty fabulous side panels, the dress looked incredible, and she happily paid for the alterations.

As I said, it is not necessarily the delivery of unwanted news, but how the news is received, and whilst we always do what we can, it is not acceptable that any small business be held hostage for the fear of retaliation.

Diplomacy is required, but it is time we accept that because the customer has rights doesn’t mean we are always in the wrong. TW

“What happens when all the empathy, understanding and wise words of experience fall on deaf ears? What happens when the bride in the dress in front of us wants the impossible?”

VIEWPOINT

Maria Musgrove and Christine Skilton of Get Savvy pose a question:

Where have all the brides gone and what can we do to get them back?

Expert advice Maria Musgrove and Christine Skilton are retailers who have learned from experience

The answer is simple – there are fewer weddings now than ever before with too many boutiques chasing too few brides. In addition, buying habits have changed. Before looking at how to get our fair share of this declining market, here are the stark facts contributing to many boutiques now resembling the Mary Celeste.

Decline in the number of weddings

With only 85,770 marriages in total in England & Wales in 2020, a decrease of 61% from 219,850 in 2019, we all hoped and prayed that saying goodbye to Covid would mean saying hello to bumper years for weddings.

Sadly, the statistics from the ONS (Office of National Statistics) show that marriage rates in the UK have been slowly declining for years due to changing social attitudes. In 1990, 375,410 couples tied the knot, a number that had declined to 219,850 in 2019.

And it gets worse... researchers at the Civitas think tank said it expects just 1 in 400 couples to marry per year by 2062 compared to the 1 in 100 couples who marry per year now.

So that’s only 67,000 weddings compared with 220,000 in 2019 and 375,000 when I first started in bridal in the 90s!

Too many boutiques

You would think that there would now be fewer bridalwear shops, but the UK market is saturated with too many boutiques competing for fewer and fewer brides.

On good authority, I’ve heard that per capita we have the highest proportion in the world! The US has only marginally more boutiques and has five times our population!

Changes in buying habits

As we pass the third anniversary of the very first national lockdown, there is an evident shift in buying habits everywhere, and especially in the wedding market.

Exacerbated by the cost-of-living crisis, engaged couples continue to rethink their finances and subsequent wedding essentials. A lower budget does not mean a couple can’t have the day of their dreams, instead it entails a more thoughtful and savvy way of wedding planning.

And for many brides this extends to the dress. Brides are just as happy to buy off the peg, online or buy a once-worn or ex-sample from charity shops or outlets to save money and the planet.

We may like to think that brides will always want the boutique experience, but even before Covid and the cost of living crisis they have been happy to

“You would think that there would now be fewer bridalwear shops, but the UK market is saturated with too many boutiques competing for fewer and fewer brides”

exchange experience for convenience and lower cost.

Wed2be are living proof of this! Back in 2009 they introduced their unique ‘no appointment, no stress and take it home today’ approach to wedding dress retailing. Many in the industry said: “That will never work as brides will want the full boutique experience”.

Fifteen years on and 59 stores later in the UK and Europe I think that we have been proven wrong!

What can we do to get the brides back?

In order to survive in a saturated and declining market, what do we need to do? As Jimmy Cliff would say: “Many rivers to cross but I can’t seem to find my way over”. Finding your way to survive in this declining market is all about first attracting the right brides to book appointments.

Here are a few tips and tricks that you can implement to get more brides into your diary and, ultimately, more sales. There’s no silver bullet to booking more appointments but there are some easy steps that can be followed to get the result you need.

The discovery stage

A bride-to-be has landed on your website or social media. At this stage she doesn’t know whether she will like your business, what you are offering and whether she wants to do business with you. In marketing speak she is what we call “cold traffic”. Her drive is that she is getting married and needs a wedding dress.

Your drive at this stage is that you want her to book an appointment to visit your boutique. Sadly, just having lots of wedding dresses isn’t going to get her to you. So even at this early stage it’s a make-or-break situation.

You first have to present content that speaks her language and guides her to book an appointment. This is where your relationship funnel comes into play.

The Relationship Funnel

You need to build a relationship with that bride-to-be so she is your customer-to-be. Many boutiques focus on building great social media profiles rather than building a relationship. They spend time and money getting their social media

marketing right to get more followers. But more followers, likes and comments don’t necessarily translate into more appointments or the right kind of brides for what you’re offering.

Even though boutiques are constantly connecting with their brides (it takes seven times to really connect) many make it difficult for the bride to book an appointment. So we need to rethink that booking process.

Make it easy to book an appointment

We are a nation of booking appointments at our convenience. We can book cabs and restaurants at the touch of a button; order and pay for food online and most of us organise a holiday without ever speaking to the hotel, airline or hire car company. We’re a convenience generation, and a third of us would prefer to schedule an appointment ourselves rather than call and talk to a person!

Brides are serving themselves up on a silver platter and it’s your job to make it as easy as possible for them to do so.

I suggest that you do a website review now and follow these top tips:

• Make sure you have an appointment booking button displayed clearly and prominently on every single page of your website.

• Don’t be vague with your call to action: “Book your appointment now” is as ambiguous as your copy should get.

• Consider adding an appointment booking button to your menu.

• Automate your appointment button.

Sell the appointment, not the product

Arguably the biggest mistake that bridal boutiques make is thinking

that they are selling wedding dresses when it comes to the discovery stage.

They become so wrapped up in showing stunning wedding dresses, designer information, their boutique, their team, their awards and their real brides that they forget that the focus should be on booking appointments.

Communicate correctly and get creative with your tools

Be aware that phone calls will be rare from Millennials. They’ve coined a nickname for themselves –“Generation Mute” – as they’d much rather message or text than speak on the phone. In fact, 75% of Millennials avoid phone calls because they’re time consuming.

If you really want to connect with your target audience of Millennials (and they are aged anything from 27 to 42) you will see success in using text message or messaging apps such as WhatsApp or Facebook Messenger and including a ‘Book Now’ link within the message.

However, there are still some aged Baby Boomers and the rare Millennials (think Mums booking bridal and prom appointments) who still believe in British Telecom’s 1990s strapline “It’s good to talk”!

If you’re lucky enough to get phone calls, then the phone remains king when it comes to selling appointments. However, you need staff who are ready to take on the role of selling the appointment. Every telephone call is an opportunity to sell and costs money, so make sure that your team are ready and you have a script to ensure the opportunity leads to a booking.

Campaigns on social media platforms, such as Instagram, Facebook or LinkedIn, can be highly targeted to your dream demographic.

Make your calls-to-action big so they will not be missed.

Follow up to prevent no-shows

You have done all this hard work selling your appointments to the brides to be at the point where they’re ready to book or have booked, so it’s enormously frustrating when you get cancellations and no-shows.

People commit more to appointments that they’ve scheduled or booked themselves than a time slot thrust upon them by an enthusiastic bridal consultant.

They are also more likely to show up if they’ve paid for the appointment or they know that there is a cancellation fee. Also, give them an easy way to reschedule.

Nurture that relationship before the appointment

The most important thing is that the sales team don’t think the job is done. It has only just begun as building that relationship with the person who has just booked the appointment is just as important.

Consider sending out a questionnaire on her wedding vibe, venue and bridal style. Make sure that she knows that you are there to help her find her dream dress. Again, make it easy by adding a wishlist on your website which presupposes that all of your gowns are on the site.

At Get Savvy we call this the Pre Sell, which means that she is already invested in your boutique and wants to find her gown with you rather than use her appointment just for “Getting ideas!”.

If you would like to know more about growing your appointments, get in touch with Christine or Maria at getsavvycoaching.com

A HEARTFELT VIEW Emma Meek-Marshall tells it like it is – in black and white

MISS BUSH

We asked the brutally honest Emma Meek-Marshall, boss of Miss Bush Bridal, for her anything-but-meek views on the ups and downs of bridal today

Truthfully, I feel like an old feminist with a homemade placard. The ups and downs of bridal are, as they ever were. The ‘down’ is the same old story of too many shops stocking too many samples for too few clients. Miss Bush and I have been knocking round the industry for 35 years and I have shouted this statement into the void far more times than is good for a girl. However, the growth in sample outlets – from franchises like Bridal Reloved to many individual businesses – are testament to this surfeit of inventory.

The upside is that there is a breathtakingly gorgeous kaleidoscope of design trends, labels and groundbreaking global looks from designers so exciting I would buy their collections just to stare at them. I include Honor NYC, Wed Studio and my mentees, Nortier.

Where does Miss Bush sit in the current bridal climate?

Miss Bush is a good business. Now. It has been in dire straits; it has had boom years, it has weathered storms. All established retailers I have spoken to would concur that 2023 is quieter than last year, but who in all honesty would want to relive 2022?

The not-too-secret Miss Bush business plan is to have sound financial advice, to engage a brilliant digital marketing team, to own the freehold of The Chapel, and to have two stalwart labels that perform their socks off year after year. We are also located at the literal crossroads (M25 junction 10) of the affluent London boroughs and the affluent southern counties.

In summary, we sell a niche product at full margin, and we innately understand our business demographic and psycho graphic.

Challenges (not of our making)

The hot topics that we, as a cohort of retailers should get militant about, get educated for, or get out of the business quickly because of, are as follows:

– Ageing British bridal is ageing. When I say British, I mean the very ‘white British’ wedding industry. Our big-name wholesale designers and brands are well into their 50s, so are the most successful boutique owners, with a few

talented exceptions. Our trade shows should have got their bus passes by now.

The industry as a whole needs youth and vitality brought into the design process, into retail, and critically into digital marketing. Attracting and retaining young staff – particularly in Gen Z – has been nigh on impossible.

– Diversity, or lack thereof*

Our industry is also extremely white and middle-class and doesn’t represent any level of diversity in its marketing imagery or company structures.

This is not a new story; this is a shameful statement of the status quo. Witness the conversation with one label I challenged recently:

Me: “So, you are using a very dark-skinned model in your campaign, does this mean you are offering a variety of skin tone/nude tulle options going forward?”

The label: “No...”

That said, I have no data or experience in the entirely separate cultural wedding apparel industry serving Asian or Afro-Carribean weddings.

– A divided Britain

Shops that serve a London-centric client are reporting bigger budgets, wedding wardrobes, outfit changes.

Thirteen years of Tory rule, Covid, Brexit and a cost-ofliving crisis have further polarised an already economically divided country. Please don’t think that clients queue up to throw their Black Amex at us, it is still a very competitive marketplace. However, the injustice/accident of birth fact that the rich are, and will always get richer, is unchanged.

– New high street and rental players

Undoubtedly, a high street name launching a bridal range has historically been the swan song of a failing brand, one that wants to exploit its existing client or, at worst, one that has completely run out of ideas.

For the extended wedding wardrobe – the Hen wardrobe, the legal obligation, the bridesmaid and the mosh pit dress – high street and online brands offer a price point that we in the classic bridal boutique sector can’t and ought not match.

Rental? Next question...

Unless it’s a handbag, I can’t see how rental can work and it certainly can’t be inclusive.

The noise and the PR drive surrounding the players is hard to ignore, but it means that specialist retailers need to double down on their niche offer.

The Plus Size Problem

When I asked my valuable, loyal and forthright Insta audience, the deafening uncompromising and emphatic opinion is that boutiques are failing women.

“More size inclusivity”; “Inclusive sample sizes”; “A bigger range of sizes available in boutiques”.

I can, and will, go further on this topic. Collectively, we should all hang our heads in shame that we don’t demand better for women.

The plus size “fat tax”, brands that stop their products at 16 or only start at 8, no made-to-measure, little or no use of digital pattern cutting.

We all share the knowledge that standard sizing is demeaning bullshit and does not serve the age range, ethnicity and physicality of real women. The issue is shrouded in silent collusion, or at best a mumble that high street sizes are different from bridal.

We are scared to talk to women in real language. We are scared to say that bodies do not scale in increments of 4cm. We are scared to say out loud when a client says she is a 16/18 that we know she will be a 26/28. We don’t have the language to say this doesn’t matter, and we don’t have the products in store to back this up. I only have fearlessness around breast size because it is stunningly clear I share the challenge of dressing for an H cup.

I deal with the most flexible brands and even I despair when faced with offering a sample size above 20.

Plus size brands? I have never seen a range that would work for my aesthetic or price point. A real, commercial, conversation needs to be had in conjunction with brands and retailers to address this as matter of urgency.

What can retailers do to up their game?

There are still too many stars in too many eyes. The bridal business is not easy, glamorous or flexible.

You can be great on the internet and fail. You can sell lots and fail. You can have famous clients and fail.

Failure is the most common outcome of opening a bridal boutique. You can be the loveliest person and fail. Learn what you are getting into, or learn how to get out fast.

Educate yourself on the businesses that have failed and challenge yourself not to follow their lead.

– Do numbers thrill you?

– Do algorithms floor you?

– Do you believe the so-called experts?

– Do you know how to read a balance sheet?

– Did you need to re-read this question?

– Are your eyes and head swimming? Perhaps this isn’t the job for you.

Content

Those who control the internet, control the world. Selfevident but nonetheless true.

Everyone knows digital marketing in all formats is the most critical driver for footfall. Forget mannequins on tables at regional bridal fayres. Forget window dressing. Define your brand, make a plan and stick to it.

Example: Sophie Habboo gets married in Westwood. Every bridal retailer and digital channel rushes to share the image? Why? Only a handful of retailers, both bricks-andmortar and online stores, sell the dress. There is nothing to be gained commercially at the altar of celebrity... except for underlining that you don’t have the product.

It also shows a complete lack of a thought-through digital marketing plan. A knee jerk reaction to a cohort of blue ticks. It increases their media impact value, not yours.

Be authentic

Many key lessons can be learned if you refuse to live in an echo chamber of traditional bridal training, tropes and practices.

A quick summary from Miss Bush Insta stories about how bridal retail can up its game:

“Ban the boxes that make you look 7’ tall.”

“Stop assuming that women who have the same body type want the same thing.”

“I’d love to see more price info.”

“Bridal consultants (should) not be scared to give genuine opinions.”

“More focus on the woman as an individual.”

“(I want) to feel heard and not get pressured.”

Get this

To summarize, I want to acknowledge and paraphrase Caitlin Moran:

“From my 45 (35/56) year-old Witch Throne, where I have seen feminism (bridal) ebb, flow and ebb again, I feel I should croakingly remind everyone, once more, about the most crucial, brilliant, sometimes frustrating thing about feminism (bridal): it’s really not a science. It has no rules. It’s still just an idea, created by millions, over centuries, and it can only survive if the next generation feels able to kick ideas around, ask questions, make mistakes and reinvent the concept over and over, so we can build the next wave of feminism (bridal). And the next. And the next.”

I implore you, kick ideas around, ask questions, reinvent the concept and make small mistakes (avoid the glaring money pits) and be fearless.

Know that there is system/ideology you need to question, and know you will have to work very hard for a very long time. Try not to do it for no money.

HOW CAN YOU GET INVOLVED? THE POWER OF EVENTS

The Power of Events is a not-for-profit organisation set up in 2022 to answer the challenge – where’s the ONE place that current or next-generation event professionals, national media or government can go to explore a map of the breadth and value of our UK Events Industry to gain insight, support, data and connections to the appropriate communities?

The organisation brings together the seven main event sectors including sporting, corporate, live music and, most importantly, weddings. Monthly Taskforce meetings enable the seven sectors to proactively discuss and address any challenges within their own industry, and support the other sectors.

Alison Hargreaves of Guides for Brides and Xenia Venues, and Siobhan Craven Robins from the National Association of Wedding Professionals and The Event School, both of whom were involved with the original UK Weddings Taskforce, currently sit on the Power of Events Taskforce to represent the wedding sector.

Alison commented: “After seeing the huge benefits to the wedding sector from working together during the pandemic to share data, contacts and communication channels, collaborating with other sectors of the event industry makes a lot of sense. It was important for weddings to be recognised as one of the core seven sectors, and to have representation within the Events Taskforce from people who really understand every area of our industry.”

It’s in full motion already, and to become the best it can be it needs the industry’s continued help and support.

Most of the main trade associations, media publications, and support organisations across sustainability, DEI, welfare and skills are already collaborating and can be accessed through the Power of Events online platform, alongside an industry events calendar, podcast and online communities showcase.

To help inspire and educate the next generation of event professionals, ten universities from across all four nations are already confirmed partners, with several more in discussion. There are outreach plans to reach students at 4,210 secondary schools to showcase the diverse career opportunities available in events. They plan to launch an online Careers Hub by the end of 2023, defining the broad range of job roles across the industry and the skill sets required to secure them.

Recent business supporters coming on board in just the past few months include Glastonbury, Live Nation, Festival Republic, AEG Europe, Harvey Goldsmith, ExCel London, Arena Group, Creative Technology, Entourage Pro, Ticketmaster, Smyle, Sarah Haywood Events, Guides for Brides, Bridebook, RSVP, GL Events and Easyfairs among over 500 who have confirmed their support over the last few months, spanning the four nations and seven core event sectors.

For more information: www.thepowerofevents.org To offer support and get involved, contact the team at hello@thepowerofevents.org

Recognising that changes in lifestyle and attitude have created the need for many industries to adopt a different approach to development in the events arena has led to the formation of an organisation that will make a vast and ongoing difference

••••• BREAKING NEWS •••••

CHURCH OF ENGLAND REJECTS CALL FOR MORE INCLUSIVE WEDDINGS

The government is due to publish its formal response to the Law Commission’s proposals for wedding law reforms this month. While the wedding industry has widely accepted the need for change, The Church of England has hit out against the proposals

The Church of England has intervened in the debate regarding wedding law reforms, with The Bishop of Durham warning that “the move to commercialise weddings is likely to undermine the Christian understanding of marriage” and “open up the institution to abuse from profit makers”.

The Office for National Statistics published marriage data in May 2023, revealing that 2019 saw the lowest percentage of religious wedding ceremonies on record. 18.7 percent of opposite-sex marriages were religious ceremonies, down from 21.1 per cent in 2018, and just 0.7 per cent of same-sex marriages.

The proposed changes would give couples even more

choice in how and where they get married. So, does this mean that even fewer couples will choose a religious wedding?

When setting out the need for reform, Justice Secretary David Gauke commented: “Whilst we will always preserve the dignity of marriage, people from all walks of life should be able to express their vows in a way that is meaningful to them. This review will look at the red tape and outdated rules around weddings – making sure our laws are fit for modern life.”

Editor of Guides for Brides, Alison Hargreaves, who has witnessed numerous changes to the marriage laws over the past 30 years, doesn’t feel that the Church of England has anything to worry about.

“We can see from online data that those with a particular faith, who would like a religious ceremony, consistently plan their wedding around the ceremony. Their choice of reception venue is second to that and there’s no reason that will change,” she says.

“However, the proposed changes will open up more options for couples who believe in the institution of marriage, but don’t want to have the big celebration. It would allow them to have an appropriate ceremony in a setting where they feel comfortable and with an officiant of their choice; whether that is at home, in a woodland or in a local restaurant. They’ll be free to include secular elements if they choose to, which is so important to many planning mixed faith and second weddings.”

An article in The Telegraph reported that: “The impact of Instagram influencers on the wedding industry has changed the shape of the market in recent years, with many prospective couples now looking for inspiration online” and that “the changes could trivialise weddings and allow for some to profit from ceremonies.”

Over 10,000 weddings a year in England and Wales are already led by independent celebrants, but the current law dictates that couples choosing this option must complete their marriage legalities separately. Many registration districts limit the opportunities to have a basic statutory marriage ceremony, which adds to the cost and inconvenience.

The Association of Independent Celebrants feel that the proposals in fact aim to make weddings MORE, not less, meaningful.

“As independent celebrants we ensure that every wedding ceremony reflects the values of the couple, not necessarily of the officiant,” says Sophie Easton of the Association of Independent Celebrants (AOIC).

“Many of the couples we work with are non-religious, but equally, many are spiritual in outlook, or in mixed-faith relationships, so it’s our job to ensure their ceremony reflects them to a tee.

“As for the ‘profit-making’ argument,” continues Sophie, “the majority of celebrants charge a fee which is broadly comparable to that charged by church ministers and registrars. When you take into account the enormous

amount of preparation involved in crafting a personalised ceremony, this can hardly be deemed as the celebrant’s prime motivation for their work!”

Guides for Brides data revealed that the cost of a Church wedding, celebrant-led wedding and civil marriage or partnership ceremony was fairly similar depending on the location of the wedding. The average ‘typical’ price given by celebrants across the country was £625. For church weddings outside of your local parish, couples can expect to pay up to £641, and a similar amount for a registrar attending an approved venue to deliver the ceremony.

Bride-to-be, Nikita Thorne, says that the change to an officiant-based system would ensure couples have greater choice and flexibility.

“When my partner and I were deciding where to get married, a church wedding was discussed. However, neither of us had been to Church for many years and it didn’t feel right to get married in one. We have instead opted for a relaxed pub that better suited our style and budget.

“We are lucky that our venue has invested in the licence required for us to be legally married within their space, but it would be great to have even more choice and flexibility to meet the needs and beliefs of all couples.”

A LETTER FROM AMERICA

Fewer appointments. Indecisive brides. Late 2024 weddings. Low closing ratios. Price sensitivity. Peter Grimes presents a snapshot of the US bridal industry today

The lament, to which there is no short answer, is: “Where are all the brides?” Nor are there easy answers to the follow up question: “Am I doing something wrong… what should I be doing?”

Boutiques started to notice softer traffic and fewer appointments in March, which accelerated by May to a reported average of 40% fewer appointments and (in some cases) deeper losses in sales as brides who did set appointments were planning late 2024 weddings, and/or shopped multiple stores. It’s important to note here that not all US boutiques are struggling. There is a welcome level of optimism from those remodelling, expanding and/or adding additional locations.

While I don’t think there’s one answer to that “where’s the bride” question, I do suspect that the factors include:

• New entrants into crowded markets: In the past 18 months we’ve seen a surge of small owner-operated boutiques competing with established market leaders with lower overheads and by concentrating on lower cost goods often purchased wholesale direct from factories.

• Price sensitive brides more willing to purchase their gowns and accessories from China direct websites: Credit card interest rates continue to increase as have the costs of living, potentially impacting brides’ budgets, causing some to delay getting married, or to downsize the event.

• The end of the Post COVID boomlet: We may be seeing the predicted drop of approximately 300,000 weddings for 2023 as the post COVID bump winds down. 2021 and 2022 saw a dramatic increase in the number of weddings, many of which were events postponed during COVID, with stores struggling to keep up with the increased demand from brides craving the experience and willing to spend. That bubble of pent up demand has worked its way through the system, leaving the industry to return to pre-COVID shopping and buying trends… some of which have been forgotten in the mad rush of the past two/three seasons.

• Overstuffed racks are adding too many options from which to choose: Many boutiques bought deep, anticipating another strong bridal season, and are now struggling to change a “style for every bride” merchandising approach to a curated one that better reflects the specific style preferences of their brides, and the changes in their shopping and spending habits.

• The possible impact of post COVID dating patterns: According to Signet, a major US jewellery retail chain specializing in engagement and wedding rings, sales were significantly lower in 2021-22 because single men and women were COVID bound and restricted from socializing through most of 2020 and into 2021. Claiming its research indicates that an average

Peter Grimes

Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

of a two-year dating period is the norm prior to an engagement, it is projecting soft ring sales and engagements until 2024-25.

The unknown impact of David’s Bridal filing for bankruptcy and having to liquidate 278 stores with an estimated 100,000+ dresses and gowns in the event a buyer for the business is not found.

Closing store/50% off sales are currently underway in a number of David’s stores, and as of this writing, A&G Real Estate Partners, a real estate advisory firm based in Melville, New York, is reported to be working with David’s on the sale of leases for 278 of its stores across the US.

It’s difficult to determine if David’s liquidation sales are part of the reason for the slowdown for independent boutiques… or if the slowdown is part of the reason for David’s bankruptcy filings.

Regardless of the factors, however, and in answer to the “what should I be doing” question, there are areas US boutique owners can concentrate on to proactively react to changes in their marketplaces… and as you’d expect, these also represent the core of bridal retailing: people, product and promotion.

People: Stylists, the front facing employee critical to a boutique’s success, must be provided consistent sales training to include updates to product knowledge and role playing through the different objections and scenarios of today’s brides. Boutiques have reported push back from some stylists uncomfortable with the psychology behind formal “sales” training, as they view it

as being manipulative and/or disingenuous.

A better label that communicates more directly in the language they understand may be “Hospitality Training”… Product: A review of the brands carried and the styles offered needs to be ongoing to insure that what is offered reflects the needs and desires of the bride, which may be different than what appeals to the manager or owner.

In difficult economic times, it’s best to work closely with existing trusted vendors who can help financially, and in filling merchandise ‘holes’.

When evaluating new collections, review delivery and customer service records and options in addition to style. And consider adding private label and off-the-rack selling to the merchandise mix. Promotions: The bride’s shopping and buying preferences are changing yet again… changes that must be reflected within a boutique’s social media and promotional messages. And whatever the specific message, it must also be reflected within the store and by all employees.

There is a key factor weaving through and supporting these approaches, and that often determines success…an ‘Attitude of Action’.

Boutiques in the US and, I suspect, in the UK, have survived and prospered through similar business cycles and market turmoil by taking positive action, by focusing on their unique value, and by a historical ability to adapt to changing consumer preferences. Regardless of the circumstances or ‘reasons’.

THE BIG ONE BRIDAL WEEK HARROGATE

10–12 September 2023

Sunday 10th 09:30–18:30

Monday 11th 09:30–18:00

Tuesday 12th 09:30–16:00

Harrogate Convention Centre

King’s Road, Harrogate HG1 5LA

For all the need-to-knows, including registration, and accommodation, visit https://www. bridalweek.com/essential-info

+ 300 great labels

+ Business Advice Clinic – a key feature, with top names covering a range of topics, including marketing, PR, social media and sales.

+ Gin Bar – in hall B serving free G&Ts every day during happy hour

+ Bubbles Bar – in hall Q serving free morning coffee, Fizz at lunchtime and afternoon tea and cakes

+ Platinum Buyers Lounge with free refreshments for nominated buyers

+ Fashion Shows – in the splendid Royal Hall. Names confirmed so far include Dando London , Ellis, Fox Bridal, Kelsey Rose, Lore, Madi Lane, Moonlight, Rachel Allen, Romantica, Sophia Tolli

ARIANNA KIMBERLY

A29 Atelier

Abella

Adore by Justin Alexander

A’el Este

Alan Hannah

All Who Wander

Allure Bridals

Allure Couture

Allure Romance

Amarra

Amelie

Amoré from The House of Nicholas

Amy & Eve

Angel Forever

Angela & Alison

Angela Bianca

Anne Barge

Antonio Villini

Apphia

Arianna Bespoke

Atelier by Monica Loretti

Avalia

BBadgley Mischka Bride

BB Plus By Special Day

Bella Premium

Beloved by Casablanca Bridal

Benetti

Beverley Hills

Bianco Evento

Bridal Fabrics

Bridalise

Bridesmaids by Jacqueline Louise

Brighton Belle

Brinkman by Très Chic

British Bridal

DDama Couture

Dando London

Daniela Di Marino

Danielle Couture

Danielle Sykes Bridal Designs

Diamond Collection by Special Day

Diamonds by Lilly

Diane Legrand

Disney Fairy Tale Weddings

Donna Salado

Double Two Shirts

Dress 2 Party

EEddy K Bridal

Eliza & Ethan

Eliza Jane Howell

Ella Boo

Ella Rosa by Kenneth Winston

Ellie Wilde for Mon Cheri

Ellis Bridals

Emily Grace

Emma Bridals

Emmerling

Enchanting by Mon Cheri

Envy by Phoenix Gowns

Essense of Australia

Essential Bridesmaids

European Collection by Special Day

Ever

Evie Young

Evita London

CCalla Blanche

Cameron Ross

Casablanca Bridal

Catherine Deane

CC Handmade Veils and Capes

Charlotte Mills

Christian Koehlert

Cizzy Bridal Australia

Claddagh Collection by Special Day

Colette for Mon Cheri

Cupid

Fox Bridal

FP & Co

Frazer & James of Knightbridge

Freda Bennet

Freedom Bridal

KKelsey Rose

Kenneth Winston

Koko Communion Collections

Kolin Weaver

Miss Emily by Très Chic

Monica Loretti

Monreal Bridal

Moonlight Bridal

Morilee

Morilee Blu

Morilee Bridesmaids

GGaia

Gallery by Kenneth Winston

Gino Cerruti Bridesmaids

Gino Cerruti Prom

Gracie B

Gurbani by FF London Ltd

HHalo & Co

Hermione Collection

Hilary Morgan

Hoesh International Ltd

House of St Patrick by Pronovias Group

IIdeal Veil

Imolacy

Isabella Communion

Collections

Island Bridal Curve

Top of Form

Bottom of Form

Ivory & Co

Izabella Texstil

LLa Perle by Calla Blanche

Labella by Gino Cerruti

L’amour Calla Blanche

Lanico Bridal

Le Blanc Collection

Lemteks

Lenovia Bridal

Lillian West Bridal

Linzi Jay Accessories

Little People

Lizabella

LJ Bridesmaids

Loré

Loré Chic

Loré Mère

Loré Privée

Loré Soirée

Loré White

Louisa Jackson Bridal

Louise Bentley

LouLou

LQ Designs

Lucia

Luna by True Bride

Lux and Love Designs

NNaomi and Nicole

Nicki Flynn by True Bride

Nicola Anne

Nicoletta

Nieve Couture

OOmnisew Only Way

PPaloma Blanca Passions

Patricia Barclay

Patricia Eve

Paul Zeni

Phoenix Gowns

Poirier

Pollardi

Pro Omnisteam

Prom by Romantica

Prom Collection by Special Day

Prom Frocks

Propress

Pure Bridal

JJennifer Wren

Joan Lee

Joanda

Jora Collections

Josephine Scott

Julietta

Jupon

Jupon Petticoats

Justin Alexander

Justin Alexander Signature

MMade To Love by Très Chic

Madeline Gardener Couture

Madi Lane

Madison James

Maggie Sottero

Maritza’s Bridal Veils

Mark Lesley Bride

Martin Thornburg by Mon Cheri

Martina Liana

Mascara London

McBurn White

Miabelle

Michael’s Bridal Fabrics Ltd

Michelle Bridal

Mikaella Bridal

Milane Collective

Millie Grace Bridal

Millie May Bridal

Miraclesuit

Pure by Très Chic

Pure White

RRachel Allan Bridal

Rachel Allen Flowergirls

Rachel Allan Prom

Rainbow Club

Rebecca Ingram

Retail Bridalwear Association

Richard Designs Rings

Romantica

Romantica Bridesmaids

Ronald Joyce

SSasha Loochi

Secret Weapons

Serena Bridal

Serene by Madi Lane

Serene Amé Bridal

Seva

Shane Moore

Silhouette Bridal

Simply Divine

Sincerity Bridal

Sophia & Camilla

Sophia Tolli

Sottero & Midgley

Special Day

Stella York

Sweetheart

Sydney’s Closet

Teresa Atelier

TH&TH

Thanks & Goodluck

The Dessy Group

The Empty Box Company

The Guest Edit by Miabelle

The House of Nicholas

The Perfect Bridal Collection by Kay Heeley

The Perfect Bridal Company

Tiffanys Bridal

Tiffanys Bridesmaids

Tiffanys Prom

Timeless Bridal by Tiffanys

To the Nines

Très Chic Bridalwear

True Bride

True Bridesmaids

True Curves

WWah Fong

Warren York

Watters

Wedding Wakeup

Wendy Makin

White One by Pronovias Group

White Rose

White Rose Graceful

Wilderly

William Turner Accessories

Willowby

Wtoo

TTania Olsen Designs

Tanya Grig Bridal

Tease Prom

Twilight Designs

YYoke Sine

VVal Stefani

Victoria Couture

BRIDESPEAK

Home or away? There’s so much talk about the growth in destination weddings. Are they what’s on

“I’m in a funny situation – one that none of my friends have faced. You see, my parents opted to take their vows in Las Vegas all those years ago, with a cab driver as their witness. They were on holiday and weren’t planning to get married so it was a spur of the moment thing and they told their folks after the event. My mother said her father never really forgave her. I do want to go the traditional route and have all my family and friends there at the time, not simply joining us for a party days or weeks later. Luckily, my other half agrees.”

Peter Grimes Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

Sara

“The idea of a laid-back wedding with the usual sun, sand and sangria has long been my dream. This is my second wedding – the first time round, I had a local church ceremony and a party at a country house hotel. The relationship didn’t last, and now I want something different. We are planning to get married on the beach in Greece where we will honeymoon afterwards and only our closest friends and immediate family will be there. To be honest, cost has not been a motivating factor, though the savings over a big UK do are considerable.”

Jayne

“We have young children and want our wedding to be a very private family affair, just us and the kids. We both come from big families and a wedding to accommodate them all, plus friends, would take away from the intimacy we so want and the cost would be prohibitive. Through a planner, we have booked a lovely beach house in southern Italy for a long weekend, where a celebrant will conduct the formalities, and we will have our own little party and barbecue afterwards. No music, no dancing. Just us, and hopefully an event the children will never forget.”

Barbara and Frank

“My fiancé is keen to have a beach wedding and a few private days in the sun, but I have always wanted a real old-fashioned wedding, with a big meringue of a dress, bridesmaids, a huge cake, photograph opportunities and everyone there who counts. We are still working out how we can satisfy both our preferences and make it work financially, and that’s the difficulty. Any suggestions would be gratefully received!”

Jennifer

most brides’ wish list?

“After looking at so many options, and having had to delay plans twice now, we are settling on a small cocktail and nibbles get together in town for friends and family. We will then fly out for a two-week holiday during which we will actually get married – we have found an English celebrant who will do the honours at the hotel. No big fuss, no big dress, no cake cutting. And, if something occurs that means we have to postpone again, no big deal. Covid and the financial crisis have certainly made us examine priorities.”

Jo and Joe

“We are so lucky. An aunt and uncle live in southern Spain and have offered us their home for our wedding. We’ll obviously stay at their house, and we have passed details and costs of local hotels on to those we hope will join us, and given them a firm deadline for confirmation. Dinner, arranged with a caterer who will also supply chairs and tables, will be by the pool. It will be amazing, especially when the sun goes down.”

Martine

Bringing change, helping others

There are so many experts and mentors around to help us all in this crazy retail world, but I often find all the bridal woes and triumphs are best shared in a forum, or learned over a meal or a massage table with trusted industry friends. This time I had brilliant Bridallive tips from Carol, who has completely changed the way I and the others there will use BL for alteration appointments.

I have learned more from Carol over the years than I have ever

learned from tutorials, and she is always so generous sharing her knowledge and experience, and of course little tips that she has uncovered. She also gives a fabulous manicure, but that’s a different story.

Assuming responsibility

Over cocktails in the sun, we discussed what we all do to move on older stock, what we do to try to be more sustainable and how we try to reduce our carbon footprint by recycling, reusing and cannibalising

where we can. In a world of plastic bags and sequins I know I’m fighting a losing battle, but I do what I can.

I reuse all of the plastic bags that dresses arrive in. Covering alteration dresses to start, then moving on to covering dressed mannequins in transit to shows and events. They then are reused in both shop and home as refuse bags, thrown away full, never just tossed aside empty. My dresses in store are covered in tulle bags, which are brilliantly reusable, protect the gowns from

Sue Lovell is just back from a spa retreat with some BrideCo colleagues who, while being pummelled by a masseuse, exfoliated and oiled, discussed ways bridal can truly make a difference

attack from others close by,  when beads clash and hooks and eyes become too attached to the wrong dress.

A few years ago, I teamed up with some BrideCo members to start our pop-up bridal shops. After a few false starts due to covid, we are now able to hold regular events. Instead of in-store sales events, we get together for Hotel Sales events. These have proved very successful and attract brides who want genuine dresses, but for whatever reason feel more comfortable in a hotel and public setting than in a bridal boutique.

We have found that in a communal setting, brides encourage each other and there’s a lovely atmosphere. We sell older dresses, discontinued styles and samples, making way for the ever-arriving new stock, and brides get gorgeous dresses at a price they are more at ease with.  By working together we offer more choice to our brides.

There’s always more you can do

We also give workshops on remodelling /redesigning dresses, and our seamstresses are responsible for some incredible repurposing. In my studio we offer our brides the chance to have a Christening robe made from their gown. Over the years I have worked with local colleges, theatre groups and amateur dramatic societies in their costume department, finding ways to reuse older gowns.  I have also worked with Barnado’s since 2015.  They make it so easy, as they collect unwanted stock that they can reuse, resell and so raise money.

I spoke to Ben Maddison, Charity Fundraising coordinator for Barnardo’s, as we arranged a recent collection.  I asked him to tell me more about the work they do, so I can share with you,  if you don’t already use them.

“So, as a charity, we work with the most vulnerable children and young people across the UK, helping

them transform their lives and fulfil their potential” he said. “We are the UK’s largest children’s charity, supporting over 270,000 children and their families through more than 1,000 projects in England, Scotland, Northern Ireland, and Wales. We work with companies such as yours who donate end-of-line or unwanted

Recycle and relove

I’ll often take advantage of their collection services, and add additional items from home, furniture, toys, clothing that can also be used. I know they do a fantastic job and the children they look after are the most vulnerable in our society.

excess stock for us to resell in our charity shops or eBay store to raise vital funds for our children’s services.

“Donating unwanted stock will also contribute to your company’s sustainability efforts because the items you donate will be resold and reused rather than being disposed of, which presents a more circular economy and diverts your waste from landfill.

“Now more than ever, we need your help to enable us to raise the vital funds needed to be able to continue to support the most vulnerable children, young people and families in the UK. Your contribution will help us to support and build stronger families, safer childhoods and positive futures for young people.”

My grandparents worked with Barnardo’s when my Dad was very young, staging Christmas parties for orphanages in the 40s and 50s, and doing the same when I was small. He and friends from the RAF camps would put on plays and parties and visit and raise funds, and I would often accompany them. I’m a terrible party planner, so this is my small contribution that I hope will help. It also helps keep my studio fresh and frees up much-needed space.

We all know those dresses we spent a small fortune on, that we hope one day will return something, but that hope dwindles with each passing month. Give Ben’s team a ring, and let it return something via the charity route. It’s far better in a Barnado’s store, or being sold on their eBay store, finding its bride and raising funds. For more details please contact giftsinkind@barnardos.org.uk or call 01788 560488.

We are guests on this planet. So let’s be a good guest and leave little trace of our time here, other than a solid reputation and a warm smile for the next visitors – and perhaps a thank you note for having us!

“Over the years I have worked with local colleges, theatre groups and amateur dramatic societies in their costume department, finding ways to reuse older gowns.”

THE NAME YOU NEED TO KNOW

The Monica Loretti Portfolio

There are no fewer than five sensational labels under the umbrella of Italian design house Monica Loretti – the eponymous flagship brand, Monica Loretti Atelier, Daniela Di Marino, Serena Bridal and Angela Bianca. Get to know them here…

Monica Loretti launched in 2016, is all about stylish silhouettes in lace, chiffon, stretch crepe and tulle. The range is sophisticated, with special attention paid to backs, the use of different lace styles, a variety of sleeves and necklines.

Daniela Di Marino first shown in 2017, features plunge necklines, pretty lace sleeves and beaded bodices, plain crepe dresses with beautiful back detailing, and also capes and wings for the new season.

Angela Bianca came onto the market in 2019, as the group’s entry level brand with stylish dresses starting at just £95. And there’s no shortage of design details such as pockets, detachable bows and belts that create a distinct personality. A range of mix and match separates – corsets, jackets, boleros, skirts and trousers –also come under the Angela Bianca name.

All the Monica Loretti collections are made in Europe in the company’s own factories, and distribution to UK stockists is via the UK hub in Cambridgeshire so there are no worries regarding import duties and paperwork. And gowns going out to Irish customers are delivered directly from Europe, so again, hassle-free.

Plus more

What is particularly appealing to retailers – and to brides themselves – is that the ten-strong design team are clearly focused on creating dream dresses that flatter curves. Rather than produce a separate collection, the designers select dresses from each range that will adapt to plus sizes, and these are available up to a UK40.

With 110 stockists in the UK, and over 2,000 worldwide, this is a house that means business – big business – and brings together curated collections that are absolutely appropriate to the season’s trends and tastes,

For 2024, fabrics include satin, crepe, tulle, glitter, chiffon and mikado, and an extensive range of lace options, showcasing various embroidery patterns and decorations adorned with sequins and beads. Owning its own lace manufacturing factories in Europe means that the company will always stand out when it comes to originality.

Expect to see minimalist elegance in clean lines, and sleek silhouettes, statement sleeves, high necklines –including mock and illusion necks – floral embellishments, playful back details and draping. And check out the newly-launched Monica Loretti veils, available in a variety of designs and lengths, that can be embroidered with any wording a bride may like, from her new married name to that of the family pets. In that veils can be customised, so can every dress and that means necklines can be modified, sleeves or straps added, lengths altered, trains reshaped.

Real service

The portfolio is exhibited at Harrogate and London, Essen, Barcelona, Milan, Warsaw, Atlanta and Chicago, and at the Cambridgeshire showroom of UK agents RKB Agencies (that’s Rob and Katie Bevington). Based at a wedding venue with beautiful views across the countryside, it is only five minutes from the motorway, 20 minutes from the train station and 40 minutes from London Stansted Airport. But visits to shops with the full collection can be arranged, if required. This is all about delivering service, solid service, round the clock. Every customer has access to their own portal links, where they can see all the dress pictures, check information on gowns, and place orders directly. Exclusivity – something retailers are increasingly interested in, and Designer Weekends are available. It seems that Monica Loretti can’t do enough for its customers: every season they send out links to all the range photos, which are available with or without brand

logos, and a separate video is made for each of the gowns, along with a promotional video of the range, any of which can be used on stockists’ social media platforms to promote the collections.

Rob and Katie have nearly 40 years’ experience between them in bridal sales and distribution and are able to give educated advice where required. They have seen the ups and downs of the industry and always give an honest opinion!

Available 24/7 and on WhatsApp/email to give advice, take orders, check stock and help with any queries, they also have a WhatsApp group for stockists that shows monthly special offers, stock lists, information on upcoming events, etc.

In these challenging times, that support is welcomed, and, importantly, reassuring, as is an awareness that effective strategies are employed to ensure the message reaches the brides themselves. In addition to an engaging website presence – and we all know that online is today’s brides first step to investigate what is available – a powerful social media campaign is always in place, and always updated with captivating visuals, behind-the-scenes glimpses, and real bride testimonials in order to create an interactive and inclusive community where brides can directly engage with the brand and access valuable information. Overall, the goal is to create multiple touchpoints for brides to discover and connect with the brand, ensuring that the message is effectively conveyed and resonates with them throughout their wedding planning journey.

Making contact

Rob and Katie Bevington, RKB Agencies

T: +44 (0)7852 999076

E: monicaloretti@outlook.com

W: monicaloretti.com

See the collection at the Bridal Week Harrogate, 10-12 September, Stand Q0

BRIDES TODAY

“We have found that a lot of the brides are leaving things until the last minute,” says Katie.“During covid everyone got used to being able to order everything they needed instantly so having to wait months for a delivery no longer fits with a bride’s timescale.

“Comfort has also become a key consideration for brides. With weddings often being rescheduled or altered due to changing restrictions, brides have shown a preference for more relaxed and comfortable dress options. Flowing silhouettes, breathable fabrics, and adaptable styles have gained popularity as brides prioritise ease of movement and wearability.

“Furthermore, there has been a noticeable shift towards sustainability and conscious consumerism. Brides are increasingly seeking eco-friendly and ethically-made wedding dresses, as well as considering options for reusing or repurposing their gowns after the wedding day.

“In terms of shopping behaviour, virtual experiences have become more prevalent. Brides have embraced online browsing, virtual consultations, and even virtual wedding dress try-ons. This digital shift has allowed brides to explore options from the comfort of their homes and connect with bridal boutiques remotely, often using social media to contact shops rather than phoning a shop.

“Overall, the past couple of years, with the impact of Covid-19, have brought about changes in brides’ tastes and needs. They now prioritise flexibility, comfort, sustainability, and innovative shopping experiences as they navigate the evolving landscape of weddings.”

Serena

is the newest line, launched in London earlier this year to bridge the gap between Monica Loretti and Daniela Di Marino. It’s a fun range of beautifullystyled, easy-to-wear gowns, featuring soft draped satin, stunning lace and chiffon.

Bridal

Monica Loretti Atelier created in 2019, spells glamour! The house’s couture brand uses the highest-quality fabrics and for the new season dresses them with 3D flower embellishments, appliqués and beautiful beadwork. Glitter fabrics stand out on the rails.

CARING AND DARING...

Tony and Claire Bromilow of AB Agencies have a big, beautiful and constantly broadening portfolio of labels that they represent here in the UK. Newest in the line up is a highly-individual German house that is making its mark internationally

The Bromilow’s collection of statement-making names position them as market leaders in an industry where stand-out personality is of growing importance. Every label in their stable has something to say and today that’s

what attracts quality retailers, and brides themselves.

Let’s look at the line up of success stories: There is Modeca, Le Papillon, Curves by Modeca, Modeca Couture, Randy Fenoli, LiBelle Bridal and Herve Paris, all part of the Global

Bridal House in the Netherlands, and all brands that are instantly recognised for their incomparable quality and design bravado.

Then, from Milan, comes one of Italy’s finest houses – Eddy K – and its style-driven collections Dreams, Sky,

Milano, Italia and Curvy. And newest of all to the AB Agencies offering is the brilliant Ready to Dare label from Germany, a house that is born to be different and go its own way rather than following the everyday trends.

Founded in Hamburg in 2017

by Katharina Countess zu Erbach-

Fürstenau, and based today in Berlin, Ready to Dare has a distinct look and appeal.

The cuts are simple, elegant and flattering, but each piece is dressed with special details designed to be noticed. But in a confident, relaxed way. Ready to Dare’s bride is fashion

conscious, cool and contemporary, and she wants that reflected in her choice of dress. She appreciates fine fabrics from reliable sources –sustainability is a way of life for her. And personal choice scores points, whether she opts for perfectly cut separates, a stylish jumpsuit, or one of the soon to be launched fit & flare dresses from a skilfully-edited capsule collection.

Key to the design proposition is the go-together appeal of individual pieces from which a multitude of looks can be created that work equally well for a formal wedding or a civil celebration. And adding to the appeal are the wear-again possibilities – a change of skirt or top or the addition of elegant pants introduce so many options.

Katharina, who has dressed celebs as well as European royals, has a distinct personality in her designs –this season her waists are narrow, her tops squared and sculpted, and her hems go deep.

Fabrics, too, have a special edge over the usual. The soft flowing Italian satin viscose is particularly striking. Also from Italy and great in combination with the satin viscose, is a tightly woven honeycomb pattern cotton. And there are floral laces, which add a new dimension of detail. Pure white, interestingly, does not feature in the collection – the colour focus is creamy white and natural tones.

Ready to Dare is available in EU sizes 34-46. The RRP range is £130 to £1,100. Wonderful news is that there are no minimum order requirements and that exclusivity on items will be granted to stockists. You can book an appointment with Tony Bromilow to see this winning range.

THE RBA AWARDS 2023 Back where they belong

The judging process

The date: Sunday 10 September 2023

The place: The Old Swan Hotel

The time: 7.30pm

The only bridal awards event to be held in Harrogate this year, the RBA will be taking over The Old Swan Hotel for a night of Prosecco, Passion for Bridal, Gorgeous Grub and Devastating Dancing!

Maggie Sottero will be sponsoring the Champagne Drinks reception at 7.30. There’ll be a delicious hot buffet from 8pm, and at 9pm, the Awards presentation will start. So much to celebrate… and no need for formal dress.

The sponsors

The RBA is proud to have the following sponsors for its awards, which have been broadened to include both supplier and retailer categories:

You do not have to enter the awards. You will be voted for by the RBA membership – they will be the judges for all categories, with one vote cast by each member. In the event of a tie, the Chair has the deciding vote.

The exception to this is the Chair’s Special Recognition Award, the award that goes to a member of your team –either a manger, seamstress or member of staff – who you feel has gone above and beyond to help your business. This award really does mean a lot to the winner and is a great acknowledgement of their hard and valued work.

The Awards categories

Best Bridal Designer over £3k

Best Bridal Designer under £3k

Best Newcomer Bridal Designer

Best Prom / Bridesmaid Designer

Best Occasionwear

Best Accessories

Best Social Media – Retailer

Best Social Media – Supplier

Best Team Member – Designers

Best Customer Service – Supplier

Most Aspirational RBA Boutique Chair’s award

The raffle

There’ll be wonderful prizes sponsored by John Charles, Enzoani, Josephine Scott, Pronovias, Studio Ellis, Wedding Industry News/Bridal Buzz, Wedding Trader

TICKETS

Tickets are on sale now. £49.95 members and £59.95 non members.

https://www.eventbrite. co.uk/e/617074996927

For any event queries, or if you are a retailer who would like to find out how to be a part of the RBA community, contact info@rbaltd. org.uk or visit rbaltd.org.uk

On The Beach

More couples are deciding to get married on a beach, whether somewhere abroad and a bit exotic or closer to home on the UK coast. After all, there is nothing more romantic than standing there, looking out at the sunset, barefoot perhaps, with chiffon floating in the breeze, and not a care in the world.

Once our lovely bride-to-be has decided that Bali will be Wedding Heaven, budget-friendly, a combo honeymoon, and that the further afield you go only close family and friends can attend, the search will begin for the dream dress.

Of course, they can easily fall at the first hurdle placed in front of them when a well-meaning friend offers help with the statement: “You know that your dress will need to

be shipped or at least have its own plane seat”. This, of course, is rubbish. Airlines can be friendly concerning wedding dresses and overhead lockers if you speak to them first and nicely.

When I was a Fashion Director, back in the old days, we had to shoot three stories at least per trip to sunny locations, in an effort to make budgets work – a lot of dresses would have to be jammed into suitcases.

Massive apologies now to every designer who sent their dresses in. I could get approximately 12 in a suitcase and one suitcase per story, if we could cram them in, with accessories. I would then sit on the case to squash it together, whilst my trusty assistant would zip it up. Then we would make sure it weighed under 23kg – we would only have hand

luggage for our personal stuff – you learn to pack efficiently and repeat wear everything.

Immediately on arrival, we did that well-known frequent flyer trick and start hanging everything up straight away, preferably on the shower rail (making sure it was sturdy obviously), and fill the bath up with very hot water, go to dinner and let the dresses steam overnight. Alternatively, if we had a covered balcony and it was super humid, we’d leave them out till the next morning for the creases to drop out, though this could prove tricky in the rainy season; on very few occasions did I need to use an iron, and trust me no one wants to be on their hands and knees ironing a wedding dress on the bed.

The beach bride needs to be able to envisage herself in the sun

Weddings in the sun are becoming increasingly popular, and with designers offering shorter lead times and off-the-peg styles, and the odd older sample sitting on your rails, you can easily handle those last-minute requests for destination dresses

ASPINAL

HALO & CO

JIMMY CHOO

on the beach when she is trying on her dress in a shop on a dull British day. Hopefully, she will have thought carefully about her destination, how long the ceremony will run and whether it will be in the bright midday sun. Questions you could raise with her – is she planning to wear the same dress on all day? Is she going to wear it again when she comes back for a second reception? Does she want to get it wet? Once these are answered, hopefully she can plan better what will work and dive into the wonderful world of trying on.

For me, the best beach bridal choices vary from a simple slip dress – very on trend at the moment, especially for the slim and bodyconfident – short or tea-length styles, laid-back boho looks, or a jumpsuit.

Of course there is always lace and tulle, and who doesn’t love an off-theshoulder style? Even a ballgown if it’s light with plenty of layers of tulle, although, there is a lot to be said for a breezy, hippy kaftan, perhaps even in colour instead of white?

I remember Pamela Anderson in one of her weddings – I think to Kid Rock – she tied the knot wearing a bikini and a sailor’s cap. Anything goes. Fresh flowers in the hair, or a simple tiara, or a giant hat which also keeps the sun off the shoulders.

If your bride is going to hit the Caribbean sunshine, don’t let her go for a heavily beaded dress with a polyester lining; no amount of antiperspirant can stop the ‘polysweats’ as we used to call them. If the wedding is by a pool, or the couple are going to walk along the sea edge, avoid a heavy crêpe – it’s a nightmare when it’s wet and shrinks upwards –and cotton velvet for me is too heavy.

I once did a shoot in Jamaica and it was so humid that we did the make up at 4am. Our model was keeping cool in the hotel room, but when we stepped outside the humidity made her sweat so much her false eyelashes popped off in a second. We also had to turn the pictures to black and white because the sun was so harsh by 10am, but they looked

fabulous.

Ahh fun times…. but back to now.

A big round of applause went to Carlo Pignatelli at Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week for sending a cute tailored mini dress with a giant lace hat down the runway. Cymbeline, too, embraced the beach vibe showing a cute little shorts suit. For the ultimate sophisticated lux look for those with a punchy budget, I loved Elie Saab’s short gown shown with a very long veil. Yes, there’s the risk of gathering sand and small stones on that walk along the beach but, my goodness it’s a fabulous look!

Australian designers have led the way with great beach-inspired dresses – I guess that’s because they are used to nuptials in the sunshine – but we’re gradually getting there. Margate may not have the magic of Malibu, but there is fun to be had in both locations.

Luckily now, every major bridal designer is producing collections that have suitable pieces for beach weddings. Kate Halfpenny has

AWON

GOLDING CARLO PIGNATELLI

ISABEL SANCHIS

EVERBRIDE ESSENSE OF AUSTRALIA

KATYA KATYA

created a simple slip dress, which can be upgraded by adding an overdress or cape for any beach drama queens out there.

UK fashion favourite, Shrimps, famous for its fabulous fake fur coats worn by celebrities, showed a cute wearable collection at White Gallery – I loved the lace dress which had a short under dress. Kelsey Rose had a selection of perfect beach-to-dancing wafty dresses, and in my opinion offthe-shoulder styles are made for the beach bride.

More waft awards go to, and in no particular order, Lillian West, Everbridal, and Adore.

Lace is also a beach winner. Yolan Cris managed to mix lace and a kaftan, which I thought has the perfect hippie chic Ibiza feel to it. Romantic gowns that got my seal of approval for beach weddings were the lace and tulle mix dresses from Katya Katya, Lee Petra Grebenau and Essense of Australia, all easy to pack, wear and feel very bridal in.

Slipping into something simple, I

liked Katherine Tash, Savannah Miller and Pronovias, although taking it one step further was Isabel Sanchis, whose dress epitomised that 70s beachbabe wedding feel.

I liked the idea of colour, too, and although the Madeline dress is big and blue, it was light. Green seems to be the new blue for interiors so does that mean we are all going to be wearing green next year? If so, Nadia Manjarrez showed a really pretty tulle wrapped fishtail gown, which I could see down Mexico way. Badgley’s big bridal number is made for easy packing, turn it inside out and put it in a dress bag and it will bounce out and look stunning on a white Maldives beach… oh take me back please!!!

I love all of that Euro vibe about Marylise’s three collections, they are fresh, modern and use great fabrics, plus colour too, and their eco credentials are spot on. You know that Bali beaches are calling out to them.

Even though I said to stay away from beading, ignore that advice in the case of Nicole Milan, Formoso and

Eliza Jane Howell who all had light beaded dresses. I can see them now at a poolside ceremony, very LA!

For a less conventional bride, the idea of separates just screams Wedding Abroad to me. Both Sophie et Voila, and Alan Hannah’s trousers and tops were winners, and All Who Wander’s gets a big beachy tick from me for their huge skirt and crop top.

Getting married on a beach is less formal, and sand – even with a carpet over it – is tricky to walk on. And let’s not forget that saying “I Do” in Brighton on the pebbles can pose a problem, too. Jimmy Choo does a great-looking beachy bridal sandal, Bella Belle has a romantic lace slingback, Rainbow Club has a satin one and Freya Rose uses mother of pearl on her block heels which works as a seaside theme for me.

Keep accessories simple. Local fresh flowers? Or a crystal bouquet, headband, hairpins or fascinator and maybe a pair of statement earrings?

But top of my list for every beach bride is statement sunglasses.

XMARCO & MARIA

KELSEY ROSE

LEE PETRA GREBENAU

IN CONVERSATION WITH... Award-winning retailer SILK & MAPLE

Tegan Patmore and Roberta Lambert met while managing/coordinating weddings. They opened their store, Silk & Maple, in Sudbury in 2021 and just one year later picked up the coveted Bridal Buyer Award for New Bridalwear Retailer. Get to know them...

WT: Okay, the obvious one, where does the name come from?

SM: Well, this is the short version… We knew we wanted ‘Something & Something’, to encompass both of us. Lambert & Patmore sounded like an estate agent or a cigarette brand, so that was an immediate no. We wanted the name to represent us, and the overall story of our bridal shop, including our dresses. We both have an affinity for flowers that came from our families’ love and background of all things botanical, so we knew we wanted that to be included somewhere. Maple became the obvious choice as Tegan is half Canadian. Then came something that represented the bridal world – chiffon, lace, etc – and Silk just seemed to be the perfect fit.

WT: Did you spend a long time looking for the right premises?

SM: In the heart of Sudbury, a beautiful and historic market town in Suffolk, we stumbled across our premises by chance. We were off to view another shop and we arrived very early, so we decided to take a wander and there it was; recently emptied and about to go on the market. It was perfect.

WT: Are you both Sudbury locals?

SM: We are not, but Roberta used to visit Sudbury in the summer holidays as a child (she recalls the best toy shop in the world…); Tegan lived in Sudbury for a short time before COVID happened..

WT: Did you have a clear vision at the start of what you wanted your store to be?

SM: Yes, crystal clear. We knew we wanted a sanctuary for brides to enjoy ‘finding the one’. The experience brides have is key to us, we truly wanted our shopping experience at Silk & Maple to be unique. This emphasis on originality reflects in our choice of designers, our appointment types and even through to the décor.

WT: So what were the décor choices?

SM: Our décor is simple with black and white as the main focus. However, it is so important to us that we are one-of-a-kind, so we have cornflower blue chairs in our reception area, a khaki and cream theme in one suite and an autumn inspired pink palette in another. Our décor stays timeless by not following too many specific trends and sticking to our personal styles.

WT: How did your decision regarding the labels you carry come about?

SM: Our dresses are minimalist or floral inspired, always modern, always well-constructed, and most importantly always special. We love having designers that are not stocked everywhere, so L’Amour, Dream by Savin, and Sarah Alouache are favourites. But we also love being a stockist of Rebecca Ingram and Sottero & Midgley – yes, more popular brands but it’s so apparent why – the price, the structure, the style, their fantastic customer service… the list goes on. We also stock Nicole Milano – we love the creative director’s young, fresh Italian flare. And Ellis completes our brand line up perfectly with its classical British designs and incredible customer service!

WT: And price ranges - did you have a fixed idea of where you wanted to position SM?

SM: This has evolved across the past two years. We ask every bride for her ‘ideal’ budget and really work within that framework. To begin with we focused on £699 to £2,000 spends; now it is £1,280 to £4,000.

WT: Where do you do mainly do your buying?

SM: Harrogate is always the highlight of our season, with London Bridal Week coming at the perfect time to really enhance the collection. Next year, we will probably head to Barcelona – it looks like a lot of UK retailers had a lot of fun there, so it would be a great experience moving forward.

WT: Do you have reps visiting?

SM: From our brands, yes, and they will come by twice a year, typically!

WT: How is this year panning out for you - busier than expected/ quieter?

SM: Really well so far, we are up on

appointments compared to last year and this has reflected in an increase of sales with a steady conversion rate.

WT: How do your appointments work?

SM: We are appointment only, and we allow two hours for every appointment. We don’t charge for our classic appointments, but we do offer upgrades with cocktails and Champagne if the bride chooses it. We reckon on a bride bringing a maximum of four to five guests with her but we will try to cater to special requests if needed and planned ahead.

WT: What do you find your brides are looking for today, style-wise and budget-wise?

SM: Something different. We see it almost every day, where brides have been to multiple shops. It’s vital to have a dress that will stop them in their tracks. Budget can differ day-to-

day so dramatically - but an average would be £2,500.

WT: Do many come in with a fixed idea of what they want?

SM: Around ten per cent of brides come in with a very specific idea. Most of our brides come in with an open mind, and enjoy the styling process inclusive of ‘wild cards’ and ‘curve balls’.

WT: Do many have short deadlines to their big day?

SM: We’ve actually had a bride getting married within a week in the last few months! Although it is still very much the norm to shop 12-18 months before the big day, we do have brides shopping within six months or less. Most of our designers have an online portal where we can see current stock and the others do fantastic rush options. We’ve never been in a position where we haven’t been able to help a bride find ‘the one’.

WT: Do you have on onsite seamstress?

SM: We don’t, we have a list of recommended ladies that we wholeheartedly trust.

WT: What do you see are the current trends - silhouettes, colour, embellishments, fabrics?

SM: Brides are loving square/ straight necklines at the moment… but the halter neck is coming in hot. In demand are textured fabrics such as pleated tulle, jacquards and 3D laces. And it is a case today all the embellishment or none at all, nothing in between.

WT: What accessories are doing well for you?

SM: Pearls, pearls and more pearls.

WT: Winning an award, has that made a difference to business and in what way?

SM: Yes, brides who have found ‘the one’ with us already are so generous with all the love they send our way after winning any award. They share any awards posts on their social media and recommend us further, which increases our reach, always saying how much we’ve deserved any win.

If brides have done their research and are aware that we’ve won an award, we think they then have a certain level of trust before coming to our shop.

And commercially, brands reach out to us more and more also!

WT: How often do you change your website, your window displays, your social media messages?

SM: We update our website weekly, our window displays seasonally and social media five to seven times a week.

WT: What advice would you give others on how to enter awards?

SM: Stay authentic to your voice and who you are. This will make sure that your entry represents your business in the best light.

WT: And what advice to people thinking about going into bridal?

SM: With any business it’s really about your reasons why. Why you want to open a bridal shop, what difference do you want to make, what do you think is missing in the industry or your location, and why? Create a USP that stands alongside your style and voice.

WT: Do you run special promotions/ events in the store?

SM: We run biannual sale events and an occasional competition or discounts.

WT: Your next move – anything planned?

We would love to become even more eco conscious within the store. We know we can never be 100% green but we can make some smarter and greener choices. We also want to actively start supporting more charities that are close to our hearts.

The new season highlights

The choice of veil depends totally on the style of dress, and the big-name manufacturers take that into account every season, broadening their offering to cover the latest catwalk trends. Here are just a few of the long-established brands worth investigating

JUPON

When launched 1991

Number of pieces in latest collection 20+

Key trends We are seeing and increasing demand for pearls

Must-have colours Ivory

And details Styles that stand out, and lace designs especially Using social media? Although we direct our business to the trade, we advise brides and listen to their wants and needs to shape future collections

On show At Ocean Media’s London and Harrogate trade events

RRP £10–£299

Contact details 01752 622 922 | gary@jupon.com | www.jupon.com

RAINBOW CLUB

When launched 1986

Number of pieces in latest collection 20

Key trends This season we have seen a return towards timeless, traditional veil designs, particularly long and cathedral-length styles that exude drama and elegance. Must-have colours Ivory and white

And details We have also seen a movement towards discreet detailing from dainty scattered crystals to delicate lace edging,

Using social media Almost all brides will use social media to find inspiration for their big day, so ensuring our content is rich and engaging is a priority for us. Pinterest and Instagram remain key channels for us.

On show Every September at Harrogate, where we exclusively showcase our new collection.

RRP £60–£225

Contact details 01392 207 030 | shoes@rainbowclub. co.uk | www.rainbowclub.co.uk | @rainbowclubuk.

TWILIGHT DESIGNS

When launched 2011

Number of pieces in latest collection 50. We release new styles throughout the year and carry significant stock, which is readily available for next day delivery if required.

Key trends We work closely with bridal suppliers and fabric designers to make sure we can meet the needs of a modern day bride, keeping in mind that many brides still want princess styling from their accessories with classic diamante and pearl combinations.

Must-have colours All colour options can be selected in our fully interactive website.

And in demand Right now, it is high quality service, good quality products and value for money. Shops are looking for short turnaround times which we can assist with.

Using social media We are starting to build our relationship with brides to ensure they are aware of Twilight and asking local bridal shops if they stock us. On show We exhibit at multiple shows up and down the UK & USA currently. We also have representatives that are available to accommodate in-store visits.

RRP We have no fixed RRP. We believe our customers should be in total control with the price offered to their customers. We also encourage retailers to use our product as an incentive to be able to secure a sale. Contact details 01827 55444 | info@twilightdesigns. co.uk | www.twilightdesigns.co.uk

WARREN YORK

Acquired 2003 by the David Keeling Associates group

Number of pieces in latest collection Each year we release five or six unique new styles to accompany the existing collection of best- sellers.

Key trends Most popular lengths tend to be either the 72” or the 144”. We also supply 54”, 108” and 126”.

Must-have colours All our veils are available in ivory with a limited selection available in Champagne, black and ivory glitter tulle. And in demand Glitter tulle has been in demand for bridal dresses for a few years and now we’re finding the demand has arrived in the veils sector.

Using social media Yes, both Facebook and Instagram.

On show We exhibit at Harrogate Bridal Week and European Bridal Week in Essen.

RRP Anywhere from £15 for a plain 54” veil to £500 for a glitzy, lacey 144”. We cater for all budgets.

Contact details 01476 590255 | sales@ warrenyork.co.uk | www.warrenyork.co.uk

LINZI JAY BRIDAL VEILS

When launched 1995

Number of pieces in latest collection 40

Key trends More is more with our latest collection, which features polka dot and glitter tulles, a fresh take on florals as well as fabulous embellished trims. All of our veils are designed and manufactured in-house with bespoke lengths available in all styles.

Must-have colours Ivory only.

And in demand We have seen an increase in orders for single-tier veils both with lace appliqués or sparkly edging. Using social media Yes, Instagram, Pinterest and You Tube.

On show We have a fabulous sales representative who loves visiting our retailers all year round as well as video call appointments to all of our overseas buyers. We have a fantastic showroom based at HQ where we welcome buyers across the UK, which we also use to video call our international buyers.

RRP Between £90 and £395

Contact details 01254 665104 | info@theljgroup.co.uk | www. linzijay.com

MOTIVATIONAL TIPS FOR BRIDAL BOUTIQUE OWNERS AND

THEIR HARD WORKING TEAMS

Negative people are draining. Sapping the energy out of a room, leaving us exhausted. It is important to recognise this and distance yourself from anything, or anyone, who doesn’t share your vision, your values and beliefs, says Helena Cotter

Ilove the following quote from the self-help guru Henry Cloud. It inspires me. In essence, by surrounding yourself with can-do people who are forward thinking, you’ll end up becoming more successful, too.

“We know from research that growth is actually contagious, so if you want to reach your goals, you’ve got to be around people that are going in the same direction you want to be going, and you will catch the success.”

Being around people and organisations that help work for the greater good of your business is fundamental to success.

1. Is your boutique a pleasant place to be? Bridal boutiques, by their very nature, are fabulous working environments, aren’t they? The shop floors are gorgeous, fixtures and fittings are top-notch together with beautiful lighting and a good deal of space to do your job. Shop windows to allow natural light in make for a perfect place to work.

But when you look behind the scenes, does your office match your shop floor in terms of it being a pleasant place to work?

My office is in my converted walk-in attic space at my house. It’s perfect for me alone to work in, large, great lighting, flooring and enough space for my files, computer, etc. If I had employees though, it obviously wouldn’t suffice.

I have worked in various places with not so nice offices; even one without windows, which was unpleasant and did nothing for motivation. Even if you do not have windows in your office, you can create light with the use of clever fixtures and fittings, bright wallpaper, and such like.

Ensure everything in what I call the engine room of your boutique is

modern, clean and easy to use. Be it up-to-date equipment, comfortable chairs, desks and paperwork, computer and payment systems. The same goes for a kitchen area and the loo.

A lot of the leg work in a bridal boutique is not on the shop floor, but in an office. Therefore, it makes sense to keep it clean and cheerful. Giving your office space a makeover needn’t be expensive.

Striving to be the best can be achieved in part when we work in a pleasant and inspiring environment.

Creating an agreeable working environment will motivate your team – and your customers in turn because our surroundings greatly affect our mood and productivity.

2. Be an honest, gracious and appreciative business owner/ manager Statistics tell us that bad management of a business is often the number one reason staff choose to leave a job. Managing a team isn’t

improving their workplace. Also, any negative energy can be dissipated and quashed fast, so problems aren’t left to fester.

Becoming an effective and efficient business owner/manager takes knowledge and practice.

Bottom line? When you are a good person to work for, your employees will be more loyal.

3. Consider offering team incentives Employees will want to stay working for you if they have a reason to. Over and above job satisfaction and working for someone, it is important to motivate staff with meaningful incentive programmes. This fosters a positive work culture.

Statistics show when incentives are offered, companies experience 14% better employee engagement, productivity and customer engagement. And 31% lower employee turnover.

Celebrating achievements can come in various guises such as:

•Team commission paid for reaching and exceeding monthly/quarterly sales targets

•Commission for selling sale/off the peg gowns and accessories

•Treats at a local beauty salon. Mani, pedi, massage, etc.

always easy. Staff members have different wants and needs. They grow at different speeds and levels. And of course, distinctive personalities show clearly the one size fits all approach (as with our customers) doesn’t work.

It is important for employers to create a positive work environment by listening to their employees’ feedback and concerns.

Addressing any issues promptly will help demonstrate you value employees and are committed to

•Offering staff development incentives, including specialist industry training. This is proven to help with staff retention

•Job promotion possibilities, when and where appropriate

When staff know they are appreciated and will be rewarded for a job well done, they’ll be more likely to be highly motivated to do a fantastic job and stay around to see things through.

Make incentives specific and meaningful to the individual staff members where possible. It feels more special.

“When you look behind the scenes, does your office match your shop floor in terms of it being a pleasant place to work”

4. Room to grow When your business starts to grow, try to give your employees opportunities to grow also. Financial benefits work, of course; however, on a deeper level, the positive psychological effects of feeling like an employee who is trusted and respected within your organisation is a huge plus and cannot be measured by money.

Is someone who works for you management material? Do you have someone who is brilliant at admin and prefers this to selling? Allowing your people to flourish where they fit best is a recipe for business success. I do appreciate though, that on occasion everyone has to be pretty good at everything!

Encouraging growth in staff can also encompass training, attending conferences, trade shows and other industry events. Being able to grow and learn new skills in a company shifts the employee motivational focus from “It’s a job” to “This is my career”.

5. Sharing and encouraging positive feedback Doesn’t it feel good when we have job satisfaction? It’s great to feel fulfilled by our work.

Boosting self-confidence will help motivation levels rise.

When customers express their delight with their buying experiences it is important to share the good news with everyone during meetings and online – in a WhatsApp group chat for instance.

When your employees learn how they have made someone’s appointment/encounter a fabulous one, they will feel even more invested in your business.

6. Being transparent When your team have a clear idea of where your business is going and how they can help you get there, they will feel like

they are a vital part of the business. Include your team in goal setting. Sales targets, timings and such like. This can be highly motivating. When staff understand your objectives, they will feel good at having been part of the achievements.

Regular meetings should be encouraged, where you can discuss how the business is performing and any changes necessary to enhance the customer experience.

Being transparent encourages collaboration and an environment of trust.

7. Free food in the office Could food be one of the keys to employee retention? Well, none of us wants to work on an empty stomach; bridal retail is notorious for grabbing a mouthful of food between appointments!

Over and above a dedicated lunch break where possible, it is important to note that when we have a snack or nibble on something delicious during the day it boosts our energy levels and mood so we become more productive during the day.

Statistics show when there is access to free nibbles and food in a business, employee happiness grows by 11%.We aren’t talking about a banquet, just some delicious treats and perhaps a sandwich or similar. Particularly on a Saturday, when it tends to be full-on appointments back-to-back.

60% of employees rank meals and snacks in the top three perks of a job – it obviously is an important factor in many modern workplaces. When we think about it, if an employer is taking care of our physical needs, it translates into them being a caring person who wants to look after us – not just what we can bring to the business.

8. Work life balancing act Try to encourage a healthy work/life balance with your team.

When you can achieve this, your staff will demonstrate higher energy levels and increased morale and motivation.

If someone feels overworked and tired, they are more likely to leave their employment. They may become disengaged, which obviously is harmful to them, and further to their place in your business.

Can you offer flexible hours? Where possible, it is wise to try and do so within the bounds of being able to run your business on all cylinders.

Encouraging holiday times and wellness initiatives together with promoting healthy mind and body programmes – which you may be able to offer outside of work as an incentive, or, for them to discover themselves.

Ultimately, work is work. As an employee, one should know what is expected of them in terms of their day-to-day activities and responsibilities. It can, though, be made to be an exciting and invigorating place to work with the right systems in place.

9. Finally, ask them what they want Avoid guessing how to motivate your team. Why not ask them? Sit down with them and discuss what they value. The answers may well surprise you!

The training courses Helena runs are perfect for either brand new or experienced staff members, and suit all sizes of new and existing businesses and budgets.

T: +44 (0)1582 451238 / +44 (0)7896 944759

E: info@helenacotter.co.uk

W: www.helenacotter.co.uk

INSTAGRAM MARKETING

10 up-to-date tips

Keep an open mind and prepare to think outside the box - this is not the typical article recommending the use of hashtags and giveaways to grow on the platform. Instagram has come a long way in 13 years, and old strategies aren’t useful anymore, says Rita

Sampaio

THE RIGHT MESSAGE

When it comes to Instangram, don’t expect a magic formula, it doesn’t exist! What works for one business may not be effective for another. You must adapt everything you do to your target audience (no one knows it better than you do) and test, test, test.  As someone with over ten years of experience managing social media business accounts, I’m excited to share with you an updated guide on how to market your business on Instagram:

1. First, you need to understand the platform and its users. To fully benefit from social media, it’s important to actively use it. The primary reason people use social media is to keep in touch with friends and family. Most users are not interested in shopping,

but rather in socialising. Therefore, it’s essential to make sure that your content seamlessly integrates into the conversation.

2. Make sure you have a professional account (Check SettingsAccount in the app). This will allow you to add contacts such as address, phone number and email to your profile. With a professional account, you also can analyse Insights (Instagram analytics), schedule content and boost posts.

3. To make the most of your bio, use up to 150 characters to describe your business concisely. Encourage interaction by including a call to

action, such as ‘Book now’ or ‘Call us today’, but tailor it to your business. To add some personality, consider using one or two emojis that align with your brand and audience.

4. To attract potential clients, you can create educational content by sharing knowledge and useful information, and/or entertaining content by incorporating humour, which can work wonders for many brands.

5. Use the different content formats wisely: Posts and Reels are great for permanent content, while Stories and Lives are best for temporary content. I recommend posting Stories daily, as many as you can as long as they add value. For Posts, sharing 2-5 per week in the carousel format (with 2-10 pictures or videos in one post) can drive more engagement. Reels (videos with music or trending audio up to 90 seconds) are a good way to reach new audiences, try to create at least one per week. Use Lives for events, but make sure to plan and announce them in advance.

When creating content, stay consistent with your brand’s visual identity - if you’re using Canva, keep your colours, fonts and graphics consistent.

All content formats can be scheduled in advance and for this, I recommend using the free Meta Business Suite Planner, which you can access through the app or Facebook

website.

6. Showcase humans - social media, like your business, is about people, so show your staff, customers, suppliers, etc. Tell the story of your products or services and provide unedited behind-the-scenes footage of your daily operations. I suggest posting this through stories as a great way to

“ It may be a bit controversial, but my recommendation is to avoid using #hashtags altogether.”

You need to ensure your voice is being heard by to the right audience

humanise your brand. You may also consider partnering with content creators, also known as “digital influencers,” but only the ones that communicate to your specific target audience.

7. Focus on clients, not followers. In 2023, followers are not the most crucial metric to track - they don’t pay your bills. Plus, people don’t need to follow you to buy from you. After all, the most popular type of account that social media users follow is “Friends, family and people they know.”

Instead of obsessing over followers, you should focus on other metrics such as reach, engagement, leads and conversions. Reach is the number of people who see your content, engagement is the number of interactions (likes, comments, shares and saves), leads are the number of potential customer contacts, and conversions are the actual sales. To calculate your engagement rate, take each piece of content and divide the number of interactions by the number of followers. Then multiply by 100 to get a percentage.

It’s best to aim for above 1% (the current average on Instagram is 0.71%). Do this only after seven days of posting.

8. It may be a bit controversial, but my recommendation is to avoid using #hashtags altogether. While they used to be effective in the early days of Instagram, they are now overused and tend to attract spam (the kind of “Nice pic, follow our account” automatic comments). Instagram’s CEO, Adam Mosseri, has even acknowledged publicly that hashtags no longer boost post engagement or reach.

Additionally, hashtags act as links, which means that if people are clicking on them, they are leaving your profile and going elsewhere. Furthermore, Instagram has a growing list of banned hashtags, and using them can result in ‘shadowban’, a punishment from the algorithm. My advice is also to steer clear of

bots, spamming people, and buying followers - these actions can lead to your account being hacked.

9. To maximise your success on Instagram, it’s important to invest in paid campaigns in addition to posting organic content. Strive for a balance between creating high-quality content to engage your audience and generate leads, and utilising paid advertising to reach a wider audience. I suggest using Meta Ads Manager to create your campaigns, allowing you to have complete control over targeting your desired audience, such as tourists or residents in a specific location.

10. It’s not wise to rely on just one social media account because if it gets hacked, you could lose all your hard work. It’s a good idea to diversify and invest in other platforms. Interestingly, the average user has seven social media accounts. Facebook remains popular with three

billion active users and is the best platform for driving traffic to your website.

If you’re interested in expanding your knowledge, there are many free online courses available on Meta Blueprin, but if you don’t have the time or don’t enjoy social media at all, seeking professional assistance may be a better option. Social media management freelancers, or marketing consultants like me can help you achieve your goals.

Rita has worked for design and digital marketing agencies for 19 years and has led marketing departments in various business groups. Specialising in social media, she’s now more focused on education but still enjoys taking on creative challenges, particularly in branding. ritasampaio.pt

Data sources: Digital 2023 April Global Statshot Report and Digital 2023 Global Report, both available on datareportal.com

THE

WAY TODAY

It is very different and professional advice is vital

IS THIS THE FUTURE?

Could artificial intelligence (AI) create beautiful made-to-measure bridal gowns at the press of a button? And could AI tools help smaller bridal shops fight back against the big guys? Chris Partridge asks

The answer to both questions is quite possibly yes. Already, AI systems have been trained to produce novel gown designs without human input; and the ability to take a bride step by step through the process of designing the dress of her dreams is already proving a powerful attraction. And it is this personal guidance and assistance that exclusive bridal salons provide that sets them apart from the pile ‘em high, sell ‘em cheap outlets.

AI-designed bridal gowns also have the potential to speed up the buying process by automating most of the cutting and enabling the assembly to be done in the UK instead of the Far East.

AI, with its ability to process vast amounts of data and learn from it, revolutionises the way wedding dresses are designed. By feeding the system with historical and contemporary fashion trends, bridal designs and an extensive collection

of fabric textures, colours, and styles, AI algorithms can analyse the data to identify patterns and generate innovative designs, which can instantly be displayed on screen using 3D modelling. The quality of the images is now up to glossy magazine standard, demonstrating suggested designs professionally in attractive contexts.

One of the most significant advantages of using AI in wedding dress design is its capacity to create

personalised and tailored solutions. By analysing the characteristics of each bride, such as body type, skin tone, personal style and cultural influences, AI algorithms can generate designs that perfectly match the bride’s unique vision, creating a dress that celebrates her individuality and enhances her natural beauty.

A welcomed partnership?

AI is not intended to replace human creativity but to complement and enhance it. The collaboration between designers and AI algorithms creates a harmonious partnership that fuses human intuition and artistry with AI’s computational power. Designers can input their ideas, inspirations and sketches into the AI system, which can then analyze and generate a plethora of design options, assisting designers in exploring uncharted territories and pushing the boundaries of bridal fashion.

AI can streamline the design process, reducing the time and effort required to create intricate and detailed designs. AI algorithms can swiftly generate and modify design iterations, saving designers hours of work, while still incorporating their artistic vision. And, of course, the AI system brings the bride and her family into the design process with the ability to incorporate features and accessories seamlessly into the image on screen. This collaborative approach fosters efficiency, enabling designers to focus more on creativity and craftsmanship, ensuring that the final masterpiece embodies the bride’s dreams.

Existing AI systems for bridal gowns include start-up gown supplier Anomalie, which pioneered the use of algorithms to create designs from a ‘lookbook’ of designs and styles created by the bride in collaboration with a stylist available on the phone. The gowns were created in Shouzou.

Anomalie operated so successfully it was bought by the massive David’s Bridal chain, one of the dominant forces in the US, which also had stores over here. Unfortunately, David’s Bridal has just gone bust and the future of the Anomalie system is

unknown.

Another interesting AI start-up is WearMe Ai, based in Malta. It uses the Stable Diffusion AI system developed by Stability AI and uses a database of selected dress designs ‘inspired by leading fashion houses.’

WearMe Ai’s system starts by offering a variety of styles for the bride to choose. Once the measurements are entered, a selection of custom designs are offered for the bride to choose. Unusually, the bride then owns the design, ensuring it will remain unique.

Serious considerations

Despite the immense potential AI offers, there are challenges. One of the major concerns is ensuring that AI does not compromise the emotional connection between the bride and her dress. Designers and sales assistants must strike a balance between AIgenerated designs and the human touch, ensuring that the dress retains the sentiment and emotional

significance that brides desire. Additionally, the ethical use of AI in the fashion industry must be addressed. It is essential to ensure that AI algorithms are trained on diverse and inclusive datasets, promoting representation and avoiding perpetuating biases or stereotypes. Transparency and accountability are crucial to maintaining integrity in AI-assisted wedding dress design. It could be fatal if an AI system was accused of discrimination because it produced designs suitable only for tall, slender white girls.

New opportunities

The integration of AI in wedding dress design has already yielded impressive results. Designers are now able to create intricate lace patterns, innovative fabric combinations and unique silhouettes that push the boundaries of traditional bridal fashion. AI’s ability to generate endless design possibilities ensures that every bride can find her perfect dress, tailored to her individuality and preferences.

Moreover, AI can assist in optimizing the production process, improving efficiency and reducing waste. By analyzing material requirements and considering factors such as sustainability and environmental impact, AI can help designers make informed decisions, promoting a more sustainable and eco-conscious approach to bridal fashion.

“The integration of AI in wedding dress design has already yielded impressive results. Designers are now able to create intricate lace patterns, innovative fabric combinations and unique silhouettes that push the boundaries of traditional bridal fashion.”

THE ADVANTAGES OF TRAINING

Keeping up to speed in this industry is crucial. You don’t want to be left behind in what is a fast-paced selling environment.

Your staff will demonstrate enhanced loyalty to your business when they feel invested in, a valuable member of a team in a fully supportive work environment. This is crucial when thinking about personal wants and needs as far as duties go, and of course, customer satisfaction levels.

Customers can tell pretty early on whether someone they are dealing with is trained – or not. We all know, don’t we, when we go shopping. We can see it from the get go.

Your customers will appreciate 100% the elevated experience of looking for a wedding dress when someone who is looking after them is trained well. It can literally make or break a sale.

As we know, everyone learns at different levels and in different ways,

this goes for how staff function on a day-to-day basis.

It’s hugely importan, therefore, to have everyone singing from the same song sheet. Standardising work processes, procedures and systems by having staff take part in the same training means they are all on the same page.

Plus, it ensures that all staff members can easily visualise and understand how you want the business run, and why certain things are done in a certain way.

to do something really well.

When you train your staff you’ll be known as a company which is at the forefront of excellence and where your team are invested in. This speaks volumes in terms of your reputation both to customers and the industry as a whole.

A fully-trained team requires a lot less supervision. This will leave you free to run the business, minimising the time needed to answer questions, and deal with issues during the day.

They’ll be able to work towards your goals and enjoy collective achievements. And working more efficiently and effectively ultimately means that less money will be wasted as the result of possible costly errors. This can be unfair to staff if they haven’t been taught how

Remember, too, that promoting your business from within means you don’t necessarily have to look to the outside to find someone new. Training should be given to allow someone to transition into a new role with ease.

Look at the Stats

Statistics show that up to 90% of staff will stay in a position where they are trained and therefore valued.

In some of the largest and best performing organisations around the

In a constantly evolving and growing bridal industry, all and any training you can offer is fantastic for staff morale, confidence and motivation. Improvement in knowledge and skills enables your team to do their jobs to the best of their abilities. Helena Cotter explains

“Where staff are untrained, they are probably unhappy. This makes for unhappy customers, too. It can cost up to £12,000 to replace someone who has left.”

globe, 84% of those businesses train their staff. In the worst performing companies, only 16% of businesses train their staff.

The percentage of staff leaving businesses across the board due to lack of training and investment is up 117% since 2013. That is quite shocking, isn’t it.

The figures speak for themselves, don’t they! It makes perfect sense to invest in what is arguably your greatest financial outgoing –your staff. You’ll find conversion rates go up, as do customer recommendations and satisfaction levels when training is offered and encouraged. Upskilling and reskilling your team will pay dividends. Something all of you can share a part in.

What are the costs of not investing in your staff?

Where staff are untrained, they are probably unhappy. This makes for unhappy customers, too. It can cost up to £12,000 to replace someone who has left. This figure doesn’t take into account the effects of sales, which can be lost, and the general feeling of pressure on other members of the team to mop up.

When people are unhappy they tend to underperform. Quality and care of work is affected, and mistakes can be made. Taking longer to do the job, complete tasks and duties, combined with customer disapproval can be very costly to a business. More costly than training staff in the first place.

Trial and error mistakes can be expensive if someone isn’t trained fully. Dissatisfied customers isn’t a good look. When a member of staff feels underprepared and untrained, they’ll probably leave.

In terms of your reputation as a business owner, and your business itself, undertrained or untrained staff can be seen as a direct reflection of your ability to manage your team. This is a cause for concern as it signifies weakness, lack of direction and a non-professional approach.

Points to consider when looking into training

• What do you want to achieve with any employee training and development?

• Define the areas in your business that you feel need attention.

• Identify the areas in your business which are underperforming.

• Which types of learning fit your business?

• How much training do you need?

• What do your team need to help them?

• Ongoing training.

Industry-related training

It includes external, professional sales training – exceedingly important in any retail environment, especially bridal. This industry is littered with inherent issues regarding sales, so it is wise to have all your staff fully trained in how to sell a wedding dress. In such a niche industry, leaving them untrained to navigate the foibles and choppy waters of a bridal appointment isn’t advisable.

The focus has to be on

1. Teamwork

2. Listening/communications skills

3. Body language/verbal language – so called soft skills

4. Management training

5. On-the-job training

6. Mentoring, supervising, facilitating

7. Gown recognition: silhouettes, styles and detail

8. Boutique procedures; everything from the length of a bridal appointment to time keeping to carrying and hanging a wedding dress

9. When and how to say no

10. Industry etiquette

11. Dealing with complaints

12. How to measure a bride

13. Taking orders: how to take a payment, fill out paperwork/ computer work, etc

14. After-sales care

15. Steaming a gown

16. Admin: computer, phones, technology, paperwork

17. Shop floor procedures in terms of window displays, etc

There are a host of training opportunities for you to look into. A well rounded, trained member of staff is a huge asset to your business. They are worth their weight in gold. Being known as an expert is very rewarding. A few years ago I saw T-shirts bearing the slogan “I am a bridal consultant, what is your super power?” How true it is.

Helena Cotter

T: +44 (0)1582 451238

M: +44 (0)7896 944759

E: info@helenacotter.co.uk

W: www.helenacotter.co.uk

Claims against directors for ESG breaches are coming

ESG (Environmental, Social, And Governance) is fashionable. Many businesses are trending ESG, chief among them Patagonia, whose owner last year sold the company to an environmental non-profit organisation.

But equally there are fashion brands making headlines for missing the mark:

Boohoo has been faced with claims of poor working conditions and treatment of staff in its Burnley warehouse, leading to Boohoo staff being targeted by protesters in February 2023 at Source Fashion; and H&M, Next, and Inditex have been accused of failing to pay the minimum production value of their goods to workers in their suppliers’ Bangladesh factories.

Not only is this bad for business, but also for the companies’ directors who could be personally liable for such ESG failings.

We look at directors’ duties and how they apply in relation to corporate sustainability and ESG requirements.

Who is a director?

There are three different ways that somebody can be considered a director.

1. De jure (or legal) directors are those who are formally appointed,

with no ambiguity as to their role or authority in relation to the company.

2. De facto directors are never formally appointed but exercise a degree of control or influence over the company. They are part of the company’s governing/decision making process, they appear as a director and carry out the functions that directors typically do.

3. Shadow directors are neither formally appointed nor carry out the typical director functions, but are there in the background exercising influence over the company’s affairs and telling the board how to act on certain issues.

Directors’ duties

A director owes statutory duties to the company that they serve. Known as the ‘general duties’, broadly these relate to acting with integrity, care and skill, and avoiding conflicts of interest, to ensure that the company is as successful as possible.

Who owes the duties and who enforces them?

The ‘general duties’ apply not only to legal directors, but also de facto and shadow directors. This was highlighted recently by The Sunday Times when commenting on Mike Ashley’s new advisory role with Frasers Group. However, it has been reported that Frasers has taken specialist legal

advice to ensure that Ashley’s role will not fall into the shadow director trap. Under company law, directors’ duties are owed to the company itself, and enforcing these duties is a matter for the company. Failing to discharge their duties is one of the few exceptions to the liability protection that a company affords its directors and shareholders.

Broadly, if a director is found to have breached their duties, which results in the company suffering a loss, then a director can be held personally liable for this and may be ordered to ‘make good’ the loss suffered by the company. If the breach is severe, it may result in the director being disqualified on the grounds of being unfit to hold office.

The Subsidiary Six

In respect of a director’s duty to promote the success of the company, there are many factors which a director must take into consideration if they are to act in the company’s best interests, including:

1. The likely long-term consequences of any decision;

2. The interests of the company’s employees;

3. Fostering the company’s business relationships with suppliers, customers and others;

4. The impact of the company’s operations on the community and

Every issue we bring you the latest information of new legalities that could affect your business. Advice from the experts really matters...

the environment.

5. Maintaining a reputation for high standards of business conduct.

6. Acting fairly among members of the company.

These considerations are known as the “subsidiary six”.

In the context of H&M, Next, and others paying their Bangladesh factory workers less than the production cost of their products, the directors of these companies may have already fallen foul of (3) and (4) above.

Underpaying suppliers (or failing to raise payments in line with production costs and minimum wage levels) does not foster strong, positive relationships with suppliers (3), nor has a good impact on the community where the factory is based (4), and is not conducive to building a reputation for high standards of business conduct (5). All of these could deter their target market – who are turning increasingly to sustainable and ethical fashion –from purchasing from their brands. Fewer customers = fewer sales and revenue, and over a sustained period, this leads to less profits for a company’s shareholders!

A widening of directors’ duties on the horizon?

On 1 June 2023, the European Parliament voted in favour of a plan to adopt the proposed Corporate

Sustainability Due Diligence Directive

(CSDDD), which is currently expected to come into force by 2025.

The goal of the CSDDD is to require businesses to undertake corporate sustainability due diligence in order to demonstrate what action they are taking to protect the environment and human rights. It will require businesses to put in place processes and procedures to prevent, mitigate and account for the detrimental impacts which their business, and other businesses within the value chain in which they operate, may have on human rights and the environment.

For example, large companies (with a turnover of more than EUR 150 million) will be required to ensure that their business practices are compatible with meeting the Paris Agreement target of limiting the increase of global warming to 1.5°C.

In addition to requiring businesses to implement new, and enhance existing, policies and procedures relating to sustainability, the CSDDD will also introduce duties and requirements for directors of businesses which fall within the categories identified above, including:

• Setting up and overseeing the implementation of the CSDDD at their business;

• Being obliged to consider the consequences of their decisions on human rights, climate change and

the environment, when acting in the best interests of the company;

• Where a director’s remuneration is linked to company performance, his/her overall contribution to sustainability will be considered when deciding his/her overall remuneration package.

The European Commission has proposed that directors’ duties will be enforced through existing Member State laws.

Final points

Time will tell if the CSDDD will result in the fashion world seeing fewer accusations of modern slavery, poor working conditions and unethical relationships with suppliers. But with good corporate governance, sustainability, and environmentallyfriendly products at the forefront of many minds, fashion businesses (and their officers) would do well to ensure their directors are complying with their statutory duties.

© 2023 Fox Williams LLP

Georgie Glover, Hannah McCullagh, Paul Taylor and Stephen Sidkin are members of the Fashion Law Group at Fox Williams LLP

www.fashionlaw.co.uk

www.foxwilliams.com

A hack is not a good look for fashion companies: how to protect yourself

Acyber attack earlier this year on JD Sports affected up to 10 million customers. This followed Moncler making the headlines at the beginning of 2022 after a ransomware attack was successful against its systems. The leaked data included information about employees, suppliers, business partners and customers.

Guess was also on the receiving end of a hack in the summer of 2021 and Chanel suffered a similar fate with its South Korean operation.

In the UK, when hacks occur, the Information Commissioner’s Office (ICO) expects companies to deal with them proactively and ensure that serious breaches are resolved effectively. We set out how fashion companies can do this.

What do hackers want and how do they get it?

Fashion brands are a gold mine for data that can be exploited. Hackers target clients’ personal information; their financial information and their operations and systems. This is all readily available, especially when brands have online shops.

Hackers can do this through a data breach – which is a targeted attack to secure log ins, where they obtain information; ransomware – where access to files or systems are blocked until a ransom fee is paid; or denial of service attacks – where a system or server is flooded with targeted

requests, preventing legitimate requests from being fulfilled.

What actions should you take before a breach?

Good defence is best when it comes to cyber-security.  In order to protect your data and brand, it is important to carry out an assessment of the strengths and weaknesses of your current cybersecurity framework. A brand should look at:

• The organisational and technical solutions currently in place:

• Is there a dedicated leadership team who is monitoring cybersecurity preparedness and responses?

• Do employees know what do in the event of an attack or breach?

• What software and hardware is vulnerable to attack?

• Identifying the assets within your company that are likely to be targeted by hackers.

• Auditing supply chains to ensure that your partners are on top of their own security measures. Cyber events with a partner/supplier could result in disruption to your own business and/or be used as a backdoor to hack your organisation.

• Cybersecurity insurance (if available).

• Training – both for all members of the organisation and regular mock cyber attacks to ensure your systems are capable of repelling and responding.

What actions should you take if a breach occurs?

The ICO will expect a brand to do the following if it finds itself the victim of a cyberattack.

1. Carry out a data breach risk assessment – is there a risk that data subjects will be seriously affected by the breach?

2. Inform individuals who have been affected by a high-risk data breach without delay.

3. Inform the regulator as soon as practically possible and in any event within 72 hours.

When providing details to affected individuals, a brand needs to inform them, in clear language, of the nature of the breach and what personal data was affected. They should also be provided with details of the relevant contact point or the details of the brand’s data protection officer (DPO). It is recommended that individuals are provided with information on how the brand will assist them going forward and any actions they can take to protect themselves.

ICO guidance outlines that this may include: Forcing a password reset; advising individuals to use strong, unique passwords; and telling them to look out for phishing emails or fraudulent activity on their accounts.

If after a risk assessment, the brand has decided that a notification to the ICO is not necessary, it is still highly advisable that the company

records information about the breach and actions taken in response. If the ICO decides that an investigation is necessary, the company may be asked to justify the decisions it made. Adequate and appropriate handling of data breaches is crucial, not only to ensure that customer personal data is protected, but also to avoid the ire of the regulators.

By way of example, in the US Shein was handed a US$1.9m fine by the State of New York for its handling of a data breach that occurred in 2018. The UK’s ICO is likely to enforce comparable penalties where they consider an organisation’s response was not sufficient.

Reporting the data breach

If a report to the ICO is necessary, then it is important that the following information is captured:

• The approximate number of affected individuals

• How many personal data records were affected

• The name of the DPO or contact point details

• The effects of the breach

• Actions taken in response.

Take home points

If you find yourself on the receiving end of a cyberattack, it is important to be as prepared as possible. Planning in advance is ideal, and is likely to include contingency measures. However, as it may be difficult

Wedding Trader is working closely with Fox Williams under whose care fashion businesses flourish with everything from securing intellectual property rights to renegotiating agency agreements and commercial leases. (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

to plan for all eventualities, the following best practices will also limit what can be hacked:

• Do not store sensitive data in clear text – pseudonymise or encrypt

• Ensure access is on a strict basis

• Don’t hold onto incomplete or old data, whilst it may not be relevant to your business, it can expose the data subjects to malicious actions from hackers

• Ensure the company carries out appropriate security policy and regular cyber security training for staff

• Carry out regular information risk assessments

• Maintain a response and recovery plan

• Identify crucial assets that may be targeted

• Consider auditing your supply chain partners

© 2023 Fox Williams LLP

Vladimir Arutyunyan is an associate and Stephen Sidkin is a partner at Fox Williams LLP (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

“Okay, so we all know business is on a goslow right now but we need to accept the fact that spiralling cost of living increases have to influence buying decisions. And that a high proportion of couples are already living together and have children. Having a shop full of gorgeous dresses is not the answer, we need to look at how we can help those struggling to make ends meet. One thing I am working on is a detailed newsletter that outlines what can be achieved within certain budgets and I have found local venues and other suppliers are more than happy to pitch in with suggestions. I put the word out and there is interest from those who could be potential customers and want to hear more. This is a time for us to be supportive.”

“Should we be working with other boutiques in our area right now, who in the past have been regarded as competition? A shared ‘show’ in a local venue could bring in bridesto-be looking to find their dream dress and we could all benefit as a result.”

“Who is running a gown rental option and how is it working –is it old samples, displayed in a separate area, and are basic alterations part of the deal? I need some advice please from others who have been there and done it.”

“Can’t wait for Harrogate. That show remains the Big One in my mind and I have been attending it since I started in bridal more than 16 years ago. I am just hoping the September event will have a real cross-section of collections in different price ranges, and labels which, sensibly in today’s environment, do not impose minimums on us retailers who are finding the waters somewhat choppy right now”.

And finally

Ups and downs, ins and outs, but so much to look forward to

“I have always offered walk-in appointments if we have space and sales staff availability, but am thinking now that if I move to an appointment-only system I could reduce opening hours – and possibly days. How have others found the switch works for them – has overall business been affected? Also, things are quiet-ish now and walk-ins are a bit of a rarity.”

Got a view you want to share with like-minded others? Want suggestions from industry colleagues? Email me – susi@rogol-goodkind.com – and we’ll get the conversation going. We are for retailers, and about retailers.

PEN.LIV FROM THE BRIDAL COLLECTIVE

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tulle@heathcoat.co.uk

www.heathcoat.co.uk/tulle/