Wedding Trader - Issue 37

RONALD JOYCE

BRITISH BY DESIGN

The stunning SS 24 collection from Romantica will be showcased at Harrogate Bridal Week, between the 10th and 12th of September, at The Crown Hotel, Harrogate.

For more information about the collection or to book an appointment to view the gowns on the catwalk, please email: sales@romanticaofdevon.co.uk

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

Ed’s Letter

September every year for many a decade, has seen the industry gather together in Harrogate –often referred to as the home of bridal, and rightly so – to look, listen, get inspired and plan the season ahead. This year, with so much uncertainty in the market place, retailers will be keeping a close watch on their budgets and making their buying decisions based on a “yes, that will work for me” rather than a “perhaps”. The days of letting your heart do the ruling are in the past; hopefully they will emerge again, but right now exercising caution is the key to the way we run our businesses.

In this issue we have talked to retailers planning their visit to Harrogate. The majority have said they are looking to see their existing suppliers to confirm relationships and discuss ways to move forward – minimums are obviously posing a problem to even long-standing partners. But they are leaving the door open to discover a new label that delivers the promise of something different, and according to Harrogate organisers there is a line-up of names ready to make an impression.

Really welcomed to the agenda this year is the return to Harrogate of the RBA Awards, on Sunday 10th at the Old Swan Hotel. Now that will bring back memories of years gone by, spark conversation and encourage shared recollections – just what is needed to lift spirits.

Deputy Editor

Sales Manager Martha Cooke

Art Director Andy Allen

SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND

Andy Allen Art Director

“Professional advice on where to spend your marketing budget is invaluable, especially now.” (p26)

Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding

“Knowing how to deal with today’s brides certainly lightens the load that retailers have to deal with.” (p56)

Martha Cooke Head of Ad sales

“The plus-size sector gets more and more exciting and the new collections have real red-carpet appeal.” (p40)

Cover

Wedding Trader magazine is an online magazine read by the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is the trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

image: Marceline by Romantica of Devon

Going back, moving forward

Ronald Joyce was launched in the 1950s in a small London shop, and flourished over the years to become the prestigious British brand with a network of 750 stockists across the UK and Europe. Talented designer Veni Infantino has fashion running through her veins. Born in Italy, raised in the UK and a London College of Fashion graduate, she credits the genes from her Italian grandmother for her artistic flare and eye for the most avant-garde trends, which she incorporates in her beautiful designs. Taking inspirations from designer shows, her love of travel, architecture, and botanicals, Veni creates timeless and contemporary designs, and for 2024 she has introduced tulles and chiffon, allowing dresses to be lighter without losing detail and volume.

“Brides have become bolder,” she says. “We are predicting a real demand for exceptional trains, volumed skirts and floral designs. We also think that this is the season of customisation, with cathedral length veils, contemporary sleeves and jaw-dropping overskirts.

Bridal Week Harrogate M20-24

www.ronaldjoyce.com

TALKING POINT

The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now

The UK Wedding Conference 2023

Nikita Thorne, the Head of Strategy at Guides for Brides, has announced the much-awaited return of the UK Wedding Conference. This exceptional event, a day of education and networking for wedding industry professionals, will take place on 28 November at the prestigious voco™ St Johns Solihull and bring together self-employed wedding suppliers and members of wedding venue teams involved in wedding sales, marketing, and event management. Learn from top wedding industry experts, including Kelly Chandler, Michelle Miles, Nikita Thorne, and Becca Pountney, stay ahead of trends, and connect with enthusiastic entrepreneurs, event planners, photographers and more, expanding your opportunities and support network. For more information, registration, and updates visit  www.ukweddingconference.co.uk or call the team on 01235 770078.

All that jazz Morilee predictions for 2024

Jazzy Babe launched in the UK at Bridal Week in London earlier this year with its range of intricately hand-beaded and embroidered gowns that partygoers looking for red-carpet appeal are loving. Silhouettes include trumpet cuts, curvy mermaids, lux ballgowns, off-theshoulder styles with feature details that stand out. Visit the website to find out more.

www.jazzybabe.com

At Harrogate you’ll discover around 90 new gowns in the Blue, Amy & Eve, Madeline Signature, Other White Dress and Grace collections from this exceptional house. Expect to see signature Morilee timeless classics alongside contemporary and modern looks that reflect the legacy and future of the brand, from all-over lace ballgowns to chic minimalistic silhouettes. Detachable elements and customisation possibilities are special 2024 elements.

Bridal Week Harrogate M22/23

www.morilee.com

Mark Lesley is blushing!

All over sequins, stunning laces (including coloured lace), and new satins feature in the Mark Lesley and Donna Salado collections. Drop waists, detachable sleeves and detachable trains are among the great wow-factor features.

Bridal Week Harrogate Q7 www.marklesley.com

Blue mood

We’re all familiar with the saying, “something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue.” It’s the last part that’s causing a stir in the bridal fashion scene, and it features in Rita Vinieris’s SS24 Alyne collection. This is the epitome of cool. www.ritavinieris.com

Dessy delights

Dessy brings together attentiongrabbing silhouettes and a beautiful palette of colours and fabrics for the new season. See the collection at Bridal Week Harrogate stand C18 www.dessy.com

First Person

In the world of bridal – or at least in my world of bridal – the summer months seem to whizz by in a blur of dresses-in, dresses-out, who’s put what where, who’s lost weight, who’s eaten for England, and who forgot to wear her veil (or some other equally essential item) and thinks it’s my fault. There are the lovely thank-yous, the flowers, the chocolates, the tears, and the hugs. There’s also the occasional late night rocking in a corner when things don’t quite go to plan and the stiff drink when a ‘certain challenge’ has left the building. If your inbox is anything like mine, you’ll have had regular emails urging you to register for Harrogate Bridal Week. And, if you’re anything like me, those emails will have been filed for later attention owing to the fact that you’re far too busy doing the rocking and the drinking to be worrying about buying more frocks, given that you’re still worrying about the frocks you’ve actually already got.

Stock thoughts

So, the first real wake-up call that a visit to Harrogate is due usually arrives in the form of the dreaded late summer discontinued lists, which on a ‘lucky’ year are okay, but on a bad year inform you that – deep joy – come the autumn, half your stock will be obsolete. Good year or bad year, however, it’s most likely going to necessitate spending more money on more dresses with all the annoying thinking, concentration, and action that this entails.

These days, more than ever, ensuring that your money is well spent and wisely invested is crucial to the success and future of your business.

Much like the world around us, our customers are in a constant state of flux. One minute they’ve got money, the next they can’t afford their mortgages; one minute they want a huge, lavish wedding, the next, despite the demand for a wonderful bridal try-on experience from you, the ceremony’s gone all micro and they’re sourcing a dress for almost nothing from an online fast-fashion retailer whose speciality is offering absolutely no experience whatsoever.

So, with my grown-up hat on, I shall be adhering to the following mantras, and I hope that some, or possibly all, of them will be of help – so I’m happy to share them with you.

With luck and a fair wind, we should all make it to another year, as long as we keep on a clear path and only drink the free drinks after 5pm.

I shall do my market research. I will sit down and conduct thorough market research to understand the latest trends, styles, and preferences of 2024 brides. I’ll be checking out online fashion shows, bridal magazines, and social media platforms.

I will be strict with my budget allocation. I promise myself to determine a clear budget for purchasing gowns and to stick to it. I shall not buy a blue dress with fairy lights because I quite like it and think it’ll turn heads when displayed in the window.

“These days, more than ever, ensuring that your money is well spent and wisely invested is crucial to the success and future of your business”

Come the new buying season, Laura Daly has a plan in place that she fully intends to stick with

I will be judicious in my designer selection. I’m lucky enough already to stock reputable and sought-after designers with a strong track record. I shall not buy anything from anyone who looks a bit dodgy and has no experience in bridal, in spite of the temptation to find something ‘different’.

This year I’ll be hot on quality assessment. Enough with buying from pictures and fashion shows; I shall be inspecting the gowns for fabric quality, craftsmanship, and attention to detail. There have been fitting issues with certain manufacturing methods this year that I do not wish to repeat!

I will pay extra attention to size and fit. I’ve always ensured that the gowns I buy cover various sizes to accommodate different body types and shapes, but I am sometimes guilty as charged of presupposing that every bride of a certain shape will want to wear the same silhouette, so I shall pay extra attention to being more inclusive in my selections and remember that not all size 18s and above want to be in an A-line boned dress.

I will ensure I buy both timeless and trendy. I do sometimes struggle to strike a balance between timeless and trendy pieces. Oh, and I need to remember that NOT EVERYONE LIKES GLITTER! I appreciate that having a mix

of both will attract different types of bride, and I should embrace that more.

I will consult our customer feedback. Reviewing customer feedback and sales data from previous collections has always been a priority of mine, and I do identify popular styles and try to learn from any issues or complaints to avoid repeating them. I do, however, tend to get caught up in the moment and repeat the same mistakes all over again; this year I shall attempt not to do this!

I will confirm my exclusivity area and what is expected of me to maintain it. I must remain strong and protect my radius. I’m always open to collaborating with designers for exclusive collections or incorporating unique elements to set my boutique apart from my competitors, but this year I shall be reconfirming my radius and ensuring that my supplier and my business are on the same page. If necessary, I will ask for this in writing.

See you at Harrogate, then. I’ll be the one, wellpractised as I am, rocking in a corner, glass in hand, mumbling all the above. You’re more than welcome to join me. We can mumble together.

And please don’t judge me if you see me wandering off to order that light-up blue dress...

After all, I’m only human!

A LETTER FROM AMERICA

The state of the industry right now… it’s confused, hesitant, nervous… with a litany of factors blurring our vision of today and tomorrow, including:

• Economic conditions and the unknown impact of the recent interest rate increase, though we do know that credit card rates will continue to increase, potentially further squeezing brides’ budgets

• The slump in appointments and sales in July following what stores hoped was a rebound in June is causing many to wonder “where did all the brides go”

• The emerging trend of smaller more intimate ceremonies, with ‘parties’ rather than ‘receptions’, and their impact on the bride’s gown budget… specifically, is she willing to invest more in her gown and accessories

• The continuing increases in costs of goods and overhead, compounded by the difficulty in finding, hiring, paying and retaining stylists. Some boutiques report an increase in payrolls costs up to 30% depending on what region of the US they are in

• The sale of David’s Bridal to an equity group whose no-cash offer was accepted, in my mind, due to the

assertions made to the bankruptcy court that 198 of its 300 stores will remain open, saving thousands of jobs… and what this translates to for boutiques dealing with the inevitable dumping of thousands of dresses in local markets

• The proliferation of consumer-to-consumer dress rental sites now targeting bridal and Mothers of the Wedding apparel

• The increasing impact of Amazon and Azazie with their bridal packages, at-home try-on promotions, and more upscale presentations… and if their discounted pricing model will exaggerate sticker shock in the minds of brides shopping in boutiques

• Off-shore factories increasingly targeting consumers who shop in boutiques then willingly buy online, seemingly unconcerned about quality or fit issues often due to the price of the dress

A shift in emphasis

For suppliers, the COVID-era cost increases throughout the supply chain remain mostly in place, with nary a hint of downward movement or a return to pre-COVID levels.

Additionally, brands are wary of what seems to be a

According to Peter Grimes of VOWS magazine, there’s a blurred picture of the US bridal scene right now, but hopefully, clarity will come soon

Peter Grimes Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

minor but more noticeable trend of boutiques buying direct from off-shore factories in their effort to reduce costs of goods and increase margins… a step brands see as fraught with hidden perils of customer service snafus, inconsistent product quality and delivery issues, just one of which could jeopardize a store’s image and standing in the community.

None of these factors taken individually are unique to bridal… if nothing else, this industry has proven itself adept at adapting to changing consumer preferences and shopping habits, often by a top-to-bottom review and tweaking of operations, and by a thorough review of promotions and advertising. And judging from activity at markets in early August, they are also revitalizing stylist training not as sales training, but hospitality training, and very selective in the collections and styles they buy. Essentially, in slow times they pivot and promote.

This day is no different in that regard… we see established boutiques, leaders in their markets, ramp up advertising to stay ahead of a changing bride and/or to gain ‘front of mind’ awareness of their store brands.

What feels different today is that it seems a combination of all these factors are hitting all at once. In some sense it feels like a sea change is upon us… in how we need to think, in how to promote, what to buy and how we sell and service.

What we don’t know, yet, is what that change looks

like, nor what to expect.

I do think we will have a clearer vision of the future if this slump in brides, appointments and sales is not due to a changing in attitudes toward marriage as some fear, but due to the post-COVID bride boom winding down, as some suggest.

A change of numbers

The theory is that it takes on average a two-year dating cycle prior to engagement. Through COVID lockdowns and health restrictions in 2020 and partially 2021 there was little social engagement and very little dating. With the return of personal interactions in late 2021 and 2022 we can expect a leveling off of the decline in the number of engagements becoming noticeable fourth quarter this year and into 2024.

These numbers will not return to the record-setting numbers and sales of 2022, but will reflect the more ‘normal’ pattern of engagements pre-COVID.

So the theory goes…which I endorse.

Will we still have a myriad of crosswinds blowing across our bows to navigate through once engagements return to more traditional patterns and brides return to our stores?

Undoubtedly.

But I do think that as an industry we will no longer be “stuck in the irons”… but will take a different tack to meet and overcome conditions, whatever may come.

Once that sale is made and the dress is ordered, ongoing communication with your brides cements the relationship and opens doors to further opportunities. Laura Daly believes that newsletters can deliver key messages

If we think about bridal life moments, the buzz of choosing and purchasing the gown is right up there with the proposal and the wedding day itself. It goes without

saying, then, that it can only be a good thing if we can prolong that high for our customer.

So how about considering a series of newsletters to keep that bridal

momentum going? If done well, they can enhance the bride’s journey with us and keep her on track and having an amazing build-up to her wedding. Here are some key moments when I think your bride will love you for going that extra mile.

NEWSThe time between purchasing a wedding gown and receiving it can be filled (by us) with celebration and joy. We can feed our bride’s need to be part of a very exclusive club and fuel her excitement by sending a newsletter and keeping her involved in the process. Perhaps you could share behind-the-scenes peeks into the gown’s development, or a production progress update? Any insight into the subtle elements that make their gown really unique will be eagerly accepted.

By having an open line of communication with our client we’re building on that loyalty and trust that will stand us in good stead once the

gown has arrived… and beyond!

If we consider that our bridesto-be frequently have a multitude of plans to make and things to take care of, then useful prompts that keep them informed of critical dates, such as dress fittings and accessory appointments, could be of great help.

Retailers can help brides to keep organised and on schedule by offering clear and straightforward information, reducing unnecessary stress during this critical period. Furthermore, providing advice and suggestions for things like veils, shoes and jewellery can improve the overall bridal experience.

As the dress manufacturing process nears completion, we could also drop a cute newsletter to present exclusive offers and incentives. Possible subjects could be discounts on alterations if booked at certain times of the year, special one-off accessory discounts, or even complimentary

services like bridal cosmetics trials or hair consultations run in conjunction with your trusted local specialists. Improving the whole shopping experience and generating favourable word-of-mouth referrals by rewarding customer loyalty can only be a winwin for everyone.

There’s also the issue of our brides’ deepest worries and fears. It is usual for any bride-to-be to have questions, worries or even doubts during what can often seem to them to be the longest wait ever known to man before they finally get to see their very own dress.

A thoughtfully-worded and welltimed communication at this point can provide a forum for us as retailers to address any challenges in a proactive manner, offering reassurance and assistance. Answering frequently asked questions, offering updates and addressing any worries or uncertainties further develop a strong and precious customer-retailer relationship.

If we’ve held our lovely bride’s hand via numerous little missives in her in-box during the build up to dress arrival day, when the day finally does arrive, we can toot those trumpets loudly! Expressing our excitement for this historic moment in her life is what we might refer to as a bit of

no-brainer. This is the time to provide a detailed guide on what to expect during the rest of the process – from seeing it, to the fittings and the collection – as well as advice on how to store and care for the gown until the wedding day. Including, of course, how to book a seamstress - or whatever your particular procedure is at this point. You could celebrate this achievement by sharing stories from other brides who have enjoyed the pleasure of collecting their gowns, even include some pictures or little videos. If your customer is going to be with you during the alteration process as well, then little updates on how it’s all going will help calm any alteration nerves. In addition, it’s worth considering the possibility of sending something after her last fitting and dress pick-up, and again on her wedding day.

All of the above can be templates written at the beginning of each year and could even be sent out automatically via one of the numerous apps. They don’t even need to be fancy – they just need to be heartfelt, celebratory, reassuring and reflective of your shop’s ethos. I truly believe we get back what we send out – so sending out love, joy and compassion can only be a good thing for all of us!

www.casablancabridal.com

GETTING THE MOST MARKETING BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

With the number of wedding bookings predicted to drop over the next two years, competition will increase significantly and businesses are investing in their marketing to stay ahead. Wedding marketing experts, Big Day Agency, give their tips on how to get the best results for your business

When calculating return on investment, remember that time has a price. A lot of businesses have become less reliant on social media after calculating the time involved, and are monitoring activities that generate ‘vanity stats’ and unsuitable leads that rarely convert into bookings.

Businesses should aim for a mix of short and long-term marketing activities to boost Google ranking (links from blogs and directories), develop trust (social media and reviews) and generate enquiries (directories and wedding fairs).

Budget should be dictated by potential returns: venues can easily spend £50,000 on marketing activities per year, while some suppliers spend less than £1,000. However, it is widely accepted that the only way to effectively grow your business and your profits is to invest both time and money into effective marketing. For most wedding businesses, that starts with online directories.

So, which directories are the most effective?

The following information is based on feedback from venues and suppliers using the platforms.

Hitched Consistently at the top of page 1 of Google, Hitched has a reputation for delivering consistent results for venues and suppliers. It is owned by The Knot Worldwide, and the wide-ranging editorial content and global brand leads to high visitor numbers, but not exclusively those planning a wedding.

When a user sends an enquiry, they are encouraged to send an identical enquiry to competitors of that business to boost enquiry numbers. This can lead to five out of six enquiries being irrelevant, and an increase in ghosting. You’ll need to respond fast to reach couples before your competitors!

Advertising rates aren’t shown online but appear to vary significantly. Allow around £1,000 for a supplier listing and at least £2,000 for venues.

Guides for Brides Unlike other directories, Guides for Brides adds an agency approach, increasing the chances of couples finding, choosing and booking the business they represent by writing editorial, boosting Google position and sharing your social media posts.

This approach means more enquiries will come from your website and your own social media than direct from their platform, which can make it harder to track ROI (return on investment). They do send direct enquiries too, but the focus is on quality rather than quantity. Advertising is inexpensive, from £145 per year for suppliers and £245 per year for venues.

Bridebook Bridebook is known for generating high volumes of enquiries through repeated prompts. Users are encouraged to download the App and are required to supply their contact details before getting full access to listings, which may reduce enquiries from couples in the early

(pre-engagement) phase of wedding planning.

As with Hitched, they actively encourage users to send multiple enquiries, and there appear to be very high volumes of users; far more couples appear to use the App than are actually getting married in the UK. According to their website, prices are from £720 per year for suppliers, or £3,900 for Venue-Pro advertising.

Coco Weddings Coco was originally known as a design-led blog for wedding venues, but has developed into a well presented and informative directory of stylish wedding venues that generates relevant enquiries. It only covers venues and not suppliers, and doesn’t have as much choice as other directories, but is relatively inexpensive and appears to be around £500 per year.

UK Bride While most directories encourage couples to select and contact relevant businesses, UK Bride asks a series of questions

when couples first register on the site, and then send enquiries to all matching businesses.

As the choice of businesses is beyond the couple’s control it can lead to a lot of unqualified and irrelevant enquiries, and UK Bride has received widespread criticism from many in the industry for their approach.

Prices are advertised as being from £560 per year for a 25 mile radius. A number of businesses have reported that the UK Bride free trial locked them into a £1,000–£2,000 contract, so research carefully before considering their trial option.

Rock my Wedding Rock my Wedding is known for having a strong following from couples planning an alternative wedding, so is often favoured by suppliers targeting that audience. It is gradually becoming more mainstream and seems to have shifted its focus from being a blog to more of a directory and second-

hand marketplace. Users are encouraged to recycle their dress and accessories, leading to mixed feelings from some bridal retailers. Advertising is inexpensive at £144 per county per year, or £10 for a bride to advertise their wedding dress.

How to get the most from your directory advertising?

It’s better to set up two to three really good directory listings, using all the features and opportunities available with each listing, than paying for lots of platforms that you don’t have time to use. For example, Bridebook includes competitor analysis on their VenuePro option and Guides for Brides reports that businesses that add reviews to their listing receive 3x the number of enquiries than those without, for no additional cost.

Just as you’d encourage a couple to contact you to ensure their aims align with yours, contact the directories most relevant to your business and ask their advice on the best approach for maximum return.

Harrogate HERE WE COME!

Excitement mounts as updates are issued about who will be showing at this year’s key UK buying event. We asked retailers how they are planning to spend their time there, and what they are doing to get brides in

“My amazing team and I love the show and Betty’s and everything Harrogate has to offer. We are looking forward to catching up with everyone, and dinner at Lucia, our favourite restaurant.

“ We will be at the show for two days – we have been to London and Barcelona this year so this is just a top up order from our current suppliers of best sellers, as well as, hopefully, finding an amazing new higher-end label. It has to be fashion forward, appealing to a younger bride, with mix and match pieces and something a bit different from what we currently stock.

“I’m getting married myself this

year and this has made me look to make changes to my store in the next few months that I know after my own experience our brides will love! We have a purpose-built bar, which opened January this year and is named after my dad. Our brides absolutely love it.

“ We also have a pampas-themed store and each bride who says yes at Aimee Bridal Couture receives their own mini vase with pampas as a thank you for supporting my business.“

Lynsey Thomson

Aimee Bridal Couture

Glasgow

“We are there for the full three days, visiting existing suppliers only; we aren’t looking for any new labels as we are fulfilled with the designers we have. We are staying within our current budget and NOT going over, ordering minimums or less if we can. The designers need to listen to our needs and not what they think we should be having.

“ We are really looking forward to the RBA Awards on the Saturday, and also to launching Bustle and Bertie in the VIP lounge.

“Recently, we hosted a Maggie Sottero event which was a huge success, and we are holding occasionwear events plus preview evenings with fizz. Our last event attracted more than 50 brides and 85% booked appointments with 90% conversion rate, so they definitely work well for us.”

Andrew and Robert Pearce

Creatiques Bridal Boutique

Southsea, Hampshire

“I’m not going – I’ve been before and spent too much money, and I’m not looking to take on new labels. My focus is on my shop relocation and maximising on our social media activity.”

Fross Hockley

Fross Wedding Collections

Halland, East Sussex

“I am looking to see existing suppliers, catch up with other industry friends and be a part of the BRSA. I am not actively looking for a new label at the moment as we are currently doing some brand development work for the boutique.

“However, it’s a great time to get a ton of inspiration and to understand how suppliers are addressing the changing needs in the market. This is the time of year we spend with most of our designers – it will definitely be very considered this year as we see the needs of our brides changing.

“I’m hosting business clinics as part of the BRSA over the three days, so I can’t wait to chat and advise lots of other retailers on optimising their marketing and social media.

“We have a comprehensive marketing strategy to engage brides at all the different stages of their buying journey. This year, we have focused more on SEO, our website, creating original content and building on our community. We

“We are mainly going to see existing suppliers but also have an appointment to talk to a potential new designer. We are really happy with our current designers but any new designer will need to be classic yet modern, and have gowns with great structure and inclusivity in sizing.

“ We are very excited to see our designers and reps again but mostly looking forward to some inspiration, some recharge and the business clinics. We usually spend more at Harrogate than at London Bridal Week because of higher minimums required but we are getting very good at sticking to our budgets!

“We have constant social media presence on Instagram, TikTok and Facebook (and the new Threads app!); we offer a refer-a-friend

have introduced more added value services and listening and adapting to what our brides want.”

option and we are attending Open Days at local venues (all of which we are recommended at!).”

Diana McMann The Little Pearl Bridal Boutique Pickering, North Yorkshire

Tegan and Roberta Silk & Maple Sudbury, Suffolk

“We will be seeing existing suppliers but are also very keen to see what other labels are offering and if there is anything new and exciting to tempt us. Anything young, fresh and different

within a reasonable price point will be on our radar.

“ The goal of the trip as always is to choose some amazing bestsellers whilst having as much fun as possible,

and if we manage to squeeze in a trip to Betty’s tea, so much the better.. We’re planning to be at the show for one day but as we are only an hour away from Harrogate, we have the flexibility to attend on extra days if we feel the need.

“ We try to spread our buying throughout the year to minimise being overwhelmed with dresses (and invoices) all arriving at the same time.

“Getting brides in? We are working hard as always on our socials, we have launched a new website, had designer weekends and a sample sale. We did a skipping challenge in June to raise funds for cancer research and held a Barbie weekend to coincide with the launch of the film. The pink Barbie cocktails went down a storm with our brides.”

Emma Hartley

Emma Hartley Bridalweear

Colne, Lancashire

“I am looking to see existing suppliers and finding new ones, too. Having opened a second boutique –this one in Tavira in the Algarve, I am hoping to find more labels suitable for the European market to carry there. I do need to take care that I make the right investment across both stores. Social media is my main contact with my brides.”

Ingrida Allen

London Bride Couture

Pimlico, London and Tavira, Algarve

“We are very much looking forward to Harrogate, as always, and try to be there birthday. We spend a lot of time being proactive on our social media platforms and having strategy meetings to ensure our targets for growth are being met.”

Claire and Mel Wedding Belles of Four Oaks

Sutton Coldfield, West Midlands

Make The Most Of It

Harrogate is always exciting, and to me, a chance to catch up with beautiful people, who make a positive difference to so many of us who work alone in our ivory towers, built of satin and lace. And it’s a chance to meet those who determine the fabric of the moment, the shape of the season, and who guide us in our purchases.

We spend so much with our suppliers, and we also put a lot of faith in them. Good ones will truly guide us and inspire us, while the not so good ones will just fill in the order book, and not really engage. But as long as we know who our client is, and who we are actually buying for, we should all find Harrogate a truly valuable experience, and a chance to be invigorated and reenergised and excited for what is ahead.

Suppliers need us, they need us to buy, to sell their products, and to promote them well to their intended market, the end user. Chances are, they will never meet nor really engage with those brides, never truly see the whites of their eyes. We need our suppliers to produce impeccable marketing material, engaging content that we can interact with, and share with our audience. WE are the end customer to our suppliers, but we need them to appeal to OUR customer. That’s not always as smooth as it sounds.

I have seen some wonderful products, so poorly represented in the marketing, that they can’t be shared

with customers, as it would instantly devalue them. In order for it to attract the right sort of attention, and bring customers to our door, we can’t rely solely on the glossy images, we need to produce content that shows the product off ourselves.

From what I have seen, we do that very, very well. The photoshoots, tiktok, reels etc., that stores create can be inspirational and unique, and can often take a product into the realms of the more desirable, because the original images cannot be found online. We can create our own narrative around a product, and that can often be a gift. Getting the balance right between highly choreographed, exceptional and engaging marketing, and the real and more personal, comforting and attainable is a winning combination, but it takes time and it needs time to be put aside to get it right.

The right attitude

When meeting with suppliers, it is important to see more than just the product, but the people who are behind it, too. Many years ago, there was an air of huge divide with some designers who came over as being elitist and aloof; their attitude was both unnerving and alienating. I am glad to say that not many of those labels are present now and I do wonder if perhaps their demise was because their stance failed to engage with the reality of today’s market.

Inclusivity is key to everything, not just marketing,

Harrogate is very nearly here, and that signals the end of the summer and the start of buying for next season… 2024 is just around the corner!

Sue Lovell is focused on quality communications and inclusivity

Sue Lovell Owner of Susan Nicholas Opulent Bridal, Cambridgeshire

and when you alienate a huge section of the buying public, based on postcode, or personality, or just plain and obvious exclusion, then you miss out on so much. Exclusivity shouldn’t mean exclusion. It is a big wide, everchanging world out there, and we must adapt to those changes, or like the names of the past, we fade away and die.

I believe we are in a time, unlike any other, where we all need to be open and honest, and a dialogue between us all should not focus on doom and gloom, but equally not be based on the ‘fingers crossed, it will all be ok in the end approach’.  We need to recognise the problems that we all face and work out the best way to address each issue.

Money matters

Let’s face facts, the root of all sleepless nights very often is money. Not the abundance of it, but the lack of it. I can’t imagine anyone tosses and turns because they just have too much money in the bank or under the mattress, but because of timings of payments, and the complexities of cash flow mean money is often an issue.

That is true for our customer, our supplier, our retailers. And so, we need to talk about it, not as something to be

judged by or ashamed of, but as the reality of running a business. We are in business to make money, we do it to keep us gainfully employed and because we love it, and with the ever-rising interest rates, affecting mortgages and rents, and with sky high utility bills, money is definitely on the mind of the majority of our customers, so we need to address this. Money and finances are the core of every business, so let’s talk about where we stand.

Consider the options

When speaking to suppliers, see if there is a softer payment term that can be agreed upon. Rather than getting a couple of dresses free, it may be more preferrable to spread the payments over three months. Perhaps spread the delivery dates over a few months, rather than a few days or weeks. Ask for some breathing space, but you need to be good for it, there is no use it wanting better terms if you really will not be able to meet them.

Alternatively, you may have a super healthy bank account, so ask if you pay up front, or promptly, what extra incentives can they offer you. See what samples / trunk shows are available, and see if there any last season samples that you may have FOC for a few weeks, that you can work your social media magic with.

“As long as we know who our client is, and who we are actually buying for, we should all find Harrogate a truly valuable experience.”

Brides want to see dresses, we want to sell dresses, and suppliers want us to repeat order, so we can work together to generate interest and a buzz. By creating excitement whilst utilising last season’s stock that may be out there, not straight off the catwalk, but already advertised, liked and coveted, we reinforce our position in a bride’s mind.

New and exciting is fabulous, but having current dresses that you haven’t previously had in stock will still be new and exciting. Brides are less about ‘new season’ than you’d think, they are less about ‘labels’ than they used to be. They are more about feeling good, looking good and feeling confident in their choices - and that comes from a great retailer.

Engage with your supplier across all platforms. My brides love it when they see a big red heart from Madeline Gardner @morileeofficial, next to their real brides photos – they feel seen, appreciated and recognised, so ask your supplier who you need to speak to collaborate and who can help you engage your brides with their products.

In short, use Harrogate to find new people to work with, and interview them like you would a potential new member of staff. Find out what benefits they will bring, and how you will work together, and also what they expect of you.

Matching and managing expectations is key to a good relationship. If you want to continue to grow a partnership with a supplier, let them know how you are finding things, what you are loving, and what, if anything, grates your gears. Honesty means everyone knows the real situation,

not a hoped for or yet to be manifested one. It is a solid foundation to start from and grow with.

I was at Olympia recently, at the Pure London event; sustainable, recyclable and renewable fashion, inclusivity and inclusion were the main topic. With suppliers focusing on the future, a better future for all of us, I was very impressed with so much of what I saw.

Consider this

What has really stuck with me, and what I have been thinking about since, is the Purple Pound. The UK High Street loses £267 million a month by not being accessible and inclusive to everyone, and although seeing models with visible disabilities is now common place, it is still not level and inclusive.

Using a model with a prosthetic leg may be a signal to inclusivity but is she/he/they paid the same as the other models? Did they have accessibility and an understanding of their physical needs and were they truly seen, rather than be there to be seen, rather than box tick? There is so much more to being seen to be inclusive, and using a model to represent inclusivity is far easier than actually delivering a product and experience that is truly understanding of a customer’s needs.

As retailers, we often think we are inclusive, but what does that really mean? Who are we including in our welcoming arms, who do we strive to make comfortable and seen, and do we limit who we cater for?  My mission is to find a supplier who designs for physical disabilities too, so every bride has a wonderful experience.

DAMA Couture, a fresh and confident bridal label from Poland, launched in the UK at Harrogate last year. Since then, it has seen amazing success across Europe extending its reach across the continent into over 150 stores. Making a return to Harrogate in 2023, they are now actively looking to build partnerships with UK retailers who are seeking out a fashion forward, yet affordable collection to appeal to the modern bride.

All gowns are designed and made in house in Poland with exclusive fabrics, laces and appliques and their construction and fit is superb. A refreshing blend of styles create a collection which is cohesive yet versatile, with soft, dreamy florals, edgy boho looks, and clean, elegant lines.

With average wholesale pricing at less than £500, could DAMA Couture be the perfect new label you’ve been looking for?

Email Anna - anna@alysa.co.uk or Nigel - nigel@alysa.co.uk

Phone 01603 334554

Come and visit us at Stand: A39

www.damacouture.com

THE RBA AWARDS 2023

Alison Parish of Aurora Bride in Sutton is looking forward to the big night, Sunday 10 September at the Old Swan Hotel, Harrogate

Awards time

The Awards cover both RBA member store awards and supplier awards – we wanted to give everyone the opportunity to be rewarded for their achievements. They are voted for by RBA members only. There is no panel, no bias, no politics – just a good old-fashioned one member, one vote scheme!

I’m not going to give too much away at this stage, but you won’t want to miss our fabulous raffle... not only for the prizes, but also for the compère. Then we’ll dance the night away till past midnight .

Many moons ago, when I was a rookie at this game with only two or three years of trading under my belt, I remember walking through the halls of The Majestic Hotel on a September evening and thinking “I really want to be in their gang”.

The RBA awards were in full swing, and it was something I really aspired to. I wanted to be successful and impressive, and be part of that hugely talented group of retailers.

Look at me now, guys! I made the cut! I’m now a member and love this band of crazy store owners (let’s be honest, we must be slightly crazy to do this). And I’m so excited that the awards are returning to Harrogate.

We have so much planned, and it won’t be all buttoned up and serious either. You can come in your best togs or your pyjamas – the choice is yours. We want everyone to invest their energy into having a good time.

In the mood

We are kicking off at 7.30pm, following the catwalk show at Bridal Week, with a Maggie Sottero Champagne Reception, where you will have the opportunity to catch up on the first day’s action and share who smashed it with their new collections, who you want to pick up, and who you want to dump.

And of course, this is where you can exchange with others how the brides of this generation are driving you bonkers. I’m sure I won’t be the only one to start a conversation that night with: “Who needs to go to 11 stores?”. The RBA is about sharing knowledge and passion.

You’ll discover when we head into the main reception room for dinner at 8 to 8:30pm that we’ve gone for fun with our menu this year; think bowl food and banter and we are hoping to cater to all palates by letting you pick your own poison!

When I look back and think of the young girl who stood in the hallway hoping to make it to one of these events, I’m so glad we have opened the RBA Awards up to all who want to attend.

There are very few tickets left, but if you get in quickly, you might just be standing in that room sharing knowledge, not glancing in through the doorway, waiting for your turn.

TICKETS

TW

Tickets are on sale now. £49.95 members and £59.95 non members.

https://www.eventbrite. co.uk/e/617074996927

If you are a retailer who would like to find out how to be a part of the RBA community, contact info@ rbaltd.org.uk or visit rbaltd.org.uk

On The Curve

As the demand for plus-size gowns increases, so, we are delighted to report, is the choice available today. And more and more are cut on the curve, with bespoke patterns (rather than upscaled versions of existing silhouettes), allowing for perfect fit, real comfort and wow-factor appeal. We’ve picked

MORILEE

Style Lorraine 3391

UK sizes 18-34

Tulle and lace with frosted, embroidered floral appliqués. www.morilee.com

Style Kirra-Belle

UK sizes 16-34

Glittered tulle, embellished lace, structural lace.

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk/collections/silhouette

SILHOUETTE BY ROMANTICA OF DEVON

BEAUTIFUL BRIDE BY SPECIAL DAY

Style 24928

UK sizes 18-36

Tulle dress with lace detail on butterfly sleeves. www.specialday-ireland.com

LILIAN WEST

Style 66187

UK sizes 4-34

Embroidered chiffon lace, with stretchy jersey lining. www. justinalexander.com

MONICA LORETTI - CURVY

Style 6914

UK sizes 18–40

Silky satin gown, with pockets and stunning lace back.  www.monicaloretti.com

SINCERITY BRIDAL

Style 44308  UK sizes xx-xx

Tulle, with sequined appliqués on illusion bodice. www.justinalexander.com

ESSENSE OF AUSTRALIA

Style D3734

UK sizes 7-36

Lace, tulle and royal organza, 3D floral appliques. www. essensedesigns.com

RONALD JOYCE ANNABELLE

Style Ariel 19011

UK sizes 18-34

Off-the-shoulder effect gown in tulle and lace. www.ronaldjoyce.com

www.martinthornburg.com

Big decisions

You need to get her to make her mind up

VIEWPOINT

Brides are still getting married, so the demand for wedding dresses is still present, and yet sometimes it feels a harder battle to convert a potential customer to a paying customer, says Sue Lovell

Rfull of impending financial collapse, and interest rates rises.

We can talk ourselves into a personal recession whether there is an actual one or not. But it is important to note that forecasters say that we should avoid a fullblown recession, but that bumpy and

big day, but it isn’t just one day; it is a series of days and experiences that culminate in a ceremony and celebration. We need to get that message out there – that it is time filled with family and friends enjoying the build-up and sharing the excitement of an upcoming

get together. Whether it is a big event or a smaller wedding in more intimate surroundings, memories are made and the experience of finding the dress should be a joyful and enjoyable one. This is not a clothing purchase, it is the purchase of a ceremonial gown... one that will be remembered by those present, and will hold the memories of the day for a lifetime.

Brides do not want to be sold a dress. Brides want to find their wedding dress.

There is a huge difference in being sold to and purchasing the dream dress, actually ‘finding the one’. A successful consultant will be able to identify the bride’s needs, her wants and most importantly her realities.

No one actually needs a wedding dress; you can rock up to any registry office, given the right paperwork is in order, and marry your true love in your jeans and slippers if you wish – there is no legal requirement to wear bridal attire. What there is though, is a need to celebrate the day in a way that makes it special and one to remember.

The couple tying the knot are central to the celebrations and they want to honour the importance of the day by wearing clothes that signify how meaningful the ceremony is; they want to look and feel their very best and rise to the occasion.

A wedding day is like no other; it is both legal and emotional, where true love is sealed with a kiss but cemented with a binding contract. A wedding day is not an everyday event, and so the purchase of the wedding gown is a very special moment, and it often comes with a hefty price tag.

I am not big on following a script or being taught to sell. I think people genuinely do buy from people they like and trust and who have the product they want. If a bride is getting married and you are selling wedding dresses, then that’s a really good place to start!

It can be incredibly frustrating to have a bride in the dress she loves, giving all the signals that she really has found the one, but who obviously and suddenly isn’t in a place where she wants to commit. You have done the hard work, identified her budget, found the gown she is comfortable in, and comfortable with the already-established budget, and she is smiling from ear to ear… but the buying signals have stopped, the hesitation has started, and the reasons not to buy today are creeping in. We still have bills to pay, we have stock to pay for, and we are here to sell dresses. So what is the problem?

Why the hesitation

So often we think it is just a case of finances. A wedding dress purchase is a considered purchase, regardless of the price. Generally, a bride will never be purchasing something that is solely for her use, where the focus is just on her, and the product will be 100% tailored to meet her needs and wants. That sometimes makes it a very scary purchase to make.

The hesitation may be because there is a justification to be made in her own mind, for her to spend so much money on herself. As women, we are so often brought up to put others’ needs first, sacrificing what we really want for more practical requirements, and a wedding dress purchase goes against everything we have been taught.

If you are used to thinking of everyone else first, being told you can think just about yourself can be daunting and intimidating. A bride may need to hear that she is worth every penny and that this day is a celebration of a life together and that she doesn’t need to justify the cost. It may not be about the money though, there may be other factors.

It is a big decision, and a unique one. We sell dresses every day (or at least we hope to) but we aren’t just selling dresses: to many brides, we are often the personification of a dream day. They need to feel seen

and valued and to know that what you tell them is true.

And that is why I don’t think a successful shop is always the one that sells the most items.

A bride can look beautiful in every dress, but she will feel it in one dress in particular. It is a feeling, more so than a look. It is a confidence and a knowledge that this dress brings out the very best in you, from the inside. It makes that bride feel excited to wear it; it makes her excited for the day.

You don’t get that feeling from being sold a dress; you get that feeling from finding THE dress, with a consultant who understands her product and listens to her client.

However, when the dress is found, often the bride needs time to process

felt amazing and left confident and fulfilled is lovely, that doesn’t pay for my time or cover my bills. It does, however, hopefully, share with others a reason to come to me to actually buy a dress. I have to accept that she was never going to be my customer as she wasn’t ever going to be a paying customer. She wanted the experience, not the product.

I should have identified her reasons for being with me sooner, and I should have been clearer that I am a business, not a free service for emotional support. And that goes back to asking for the sale, being clear on the product I sell, and explaining that it comes with an extra service that I provide – confidence, honesty and trust. I don’t sell those... they are included in the package I provide.

Getting it right

that moment. And sometimes, she really isn’t ready for the next step –or perhaps she doesn’t understand what happens next.

So she needs guiding through the stages, and sometimes we need to cover off all the positives, re-inforce all the benefits of the dress she is in, and as obvious as it sounds, we should ask for the sale.

We are here to sell dresses and if she is truly here to buy her dress, it should be plain sailing once she has found it. But…

It’s not always the case

Sometimes she just isn’t ready to buy, for reasons beyond our control or beyond our understanding. I have had a bride recently tell me that she had already purchased her dress, but didn’t get that special moment, so she came to me to get that feeling her friends said they got when they were with me. Mission accomplished.

But I am here to sell dresses; it is my living. So, whilst knowing someone

By identifying her needs early on, you can always find the right dress. By being clear on the process you can give her confidence in her purchase. By asking for the sale when she is in the right dress and knows the process, you can identify whether she needs extra information, or even extra time. You can establish if she is really ready to buy, or just soaking up the experience.

That isn’t always easy to judge on a busy Saturday, so the option of a follow up appointment to look at that dress once again, to focus on just that one, may be what it takes to get her to commit.

Sometimes, a customer just needs time and an understanding that she needs a guiding hand; she wants to find her dream dress, and doesn’t want to feel pushed into a sale she may well regret.

Often all it takes is that extra reassurance and time with her own thoughts before she can proceed with a purchase.

We don’t need to sell – that becomes a desperate situation – we need her to want to buy from us, and that is the skill that once understood makes all the difference.

“A successful consultant will be able to identify a bride’s needs, her wants and most importantly her realities”

ALL ABOUT

Enzoani first premiered in 2005 to rave critical and consumer reviews, quickly catapulting the brand into prominence on the world bridal stage. Enzoani’s ability to combine traditional and modern design, sex appeal, superior fit, and an uncompromising focus on quality of construction positioned it as a forward-thinking couture house for the modern bride.

The brand message spelled chic and classy. Sophisticated yet playful. Effortlessly elegant, with a fashion forward eye for luxurious, couture style, and the Enzoani bride encompasses all of these ideals while also maintaining strength and confidence in her own unique personality and tastes.

Enzoani launched three 2024 collections, with 18 gowns under the eponymous label, 20 in Blue by Enzoani and 16 in the Love collection.

The new ranges are all about sophistication, individuality, high quality and value as well as the perfect fit – key to the brand personality.

For 2024 expect to see a selection of stunning embroidered laces adorned with elegant 3D floral motifs, and a new piping that gives a sexy lingerie feel to the timeless silhouettes.

RRP Enzoani £3,000–£4,500

Blue by Enzoani £2,000–£3,000

Love £1,500–£2,200

If you haven’t already discovered the Bridal Collective, let us introduce you to the individual labels, shown at Barcelona Bridal Week and at a private two-day launch in the UK TESSA

The ÉLYSÉE bridal division of The Bridal Collective launched in 2019. The brand name is derived from the Ancient Greek word ‘Elysium’, meaning a place or state of perfect happiness. Brides will find ÉLYSÉE familiar and rooted in the heritage of traditional bridal design, while pushing the boundaries of fashion. Couture detailing makes makes a stand-out statement

There are four stunning ÉLYSÉE labels: the luxurious opulence of ÉLYSÉE Atelier, the modern glamour of ÉLYSÉE, the youthful romance of ÉTOILE, and the sizeinclusive sophistication of ÉLYSÉE Édition. Overall, the collections for 2024 have an even more

elevated aesthetic than previous seasons with fashionforward styles that take their artistic cues from the couture arena – for 2024, there are sophisticated patterns, layerings of fabric, and exquisite finishing details.

Embroidered layered lace as well as mikado tell a special story. There are 18 new gowns in each ÉLYSÉE and ÉTOILE, eight in ÉLYSÉE Atelier and 12 in ÉLYSÉE Édition.

RRP ÉLYSÉE £2,000–£3,500

ÉLYSÉE Atelier £3,000–£5,500

ÉTOILE £2,000–£2,500

ÉLYSÉE Édition £2,500–£3,400

GLORIANA

LOREN

PEN· LIV

PEN· LIV was launched at the 2022 Bridal Collective Fashion Event. A new collection for brides looking for modern, couture gowns with a youthful, edgy and sexy vibe, the emphasis here is on craftsmanship, fit, and affordability. The look is bold and confident, sultry and sophisticated – everything, in fact, that today’s brides want. PEN· LIV brides appreciate the beauty of traditional design elements while

recognising that living and dressing for today is about embracing the new and the daring. Expect elegant showstopping fabrics across the 14 new pieces – hand-beaded laces and 3D floral appliqués and gorgeous water ripple motifs – and figure-flattering, lingerie-style tailoring with sleek sheer silhouettes.

RRP PEN.LIV £3,000–£4,500

BELINDA

BILLIE

To find out more about Bridal Collective, interested stockists can contact sales@bridal-collective.co.uk

NO SHOWS APPOINTMENTS

Recently, there have been posts on social media platforms from retailers about their experiences of no-show appointments. Helena Cotter looks at the scenario... and the effect on business

t is such an important topic and one which is as old as the hills – I am sure we all have stories about no-hows – which is why it forms the basis of this feature.

When someone doesn’t turn up, aside from it being irritating, (although at this stage we may not know their reason) time and money are lost.

The customer may genuinely have forgotten, or they could have taken the time down incorrectly, or are not confident about being in a bridal environment. They could be worried about trying dresses, worried about money and nervous about the experience altogether. And they may have more important things going on in their world at that moment in time.

Reducing the likelihood of noshows is crucial in your business. It is actually very common phenomenon and stats show the percentage of no-shows can make up 10–15% of all appointments. To examine this further, we need to look at the negative aspects of no shows, how to handle them; deal with them professionally at all times, and how to reduce them to as few as humanly possible.

Why and how do no-shows damage your business?

Not only is it frustrating when you wait and wait for someone to arrive, but it can limit the amount of time you have with your next customer who was

probably there on time.

Stewing and dwelling on why they haven’t turned up can affect subsequent appointments – at least if they contact you to say they aren’t coming, you can move on. But if they have already found their dress somewhere else, they may be too embarrassed to contact you. So, all in all, you are left hanging in the air not knowing which way to move forward. You may start to doubt your abilities if it becomes a regular thing. It’s a waste of time when you have a no-show. At the 11th hour it will be pretty much

person may be affected, and trust will be hard to rebuild. You may be wary of them and their intentions.

We have to remember, whilst this is business, there is a human element at work here. Feelings do come into it; as 90% of our body language signals how we truly feel inside, we can’t hide it. Directly and indirectly, loss of income is the result of no-shows.

No-shows have the power to potentially dent your brand, your business image and your reputation. How? When we allow or are subject to no-show appointments, or this behaviour becomes regular, other customers may (wrongly) assume it is an acceptable part of your business.

impossible to fill that appointment slot. Money is wasted and no shows can damage business growth.

Short term, you are not making any sales/money from that appointment. Long term, that no-show appointment may be wasted for good as the customer in question could decline to come to your boutique at all in the future and you may never know why.

Should they choose to rebook with you, the fact they didn’t turn up the last time can affect the appointment presentation. Your perception of that

The business image can therefore be tarnished as it appears it is taken less seriously than any competition you may have. The number of no-shows could in fact increase, which will further affect finances.

How to reduce no shows

Customer management plays a huge part in trying to reduce no shows and cancellations. Obviously, we cannot demand that customers turn up, but there are ways to communicate with your audience to limit the potential for no-shows.

Appointment scheduling apps

“Using all the online methods of contact through appointment scheduling and reminders is the best way to help customers be on time.”

are available all over the world and definitely worth looking into. After all, we all spend lots of time online so it makes sense to add this type of software to your business model.

Why not set up email, mobile and online chat appointment reminders? More often than not, customers don’t deliberately set out to not show up, sometimes life just gets in the way. Reminders are a gentle way to encourage your customers not to forget.

Using all the online methods of contact through appointment scheduling and reminders is the best way to help customers be on time.

Should they wish to cancel an appointment, ensure you guide them with the time frame you’d like them to do that in – for instance 24 or 48 hours’ notice. Look at your cancellation and no-show policies. Have you made it easy for customers to use? Put yourself in their shoes. People don’t like complicated systems.

Appointment charges

I know many boutique owners who will never charge for appointments. That is absolutely fine; whatever works for you and your own business. As I always say, I am not the bridal police. You may feel that charging customers for appointments would scare them away. After all, we are asking them to pay for an unknown service to an unknown business.

It’s interesting though, isn’t it. We pay in advance for a lot of items online. Food, clothing, travel, household goods, insurance, etc. It is hugely common to pay in advance in our modern world.

It stands to reason that if you charge in advance (and refund or not, take the amount off a gown if they buy, when they turn up), customers will show up because they feel way more committed having paid in advance. Customers don’t want to waste their money.

Those who choose to charge though experience a drop in noshows and cancellations. In fact, a

client said to me, and I quote: “Noshow and cancellations have dropped off a cliff since we started charging for appointments”.

What more can I say?

What to do when a customer doesn’t turn up

Avoid taking it personally. Nine times out of ten it isn’t going to be your fault. Try to take the emotion out of it.

Mostly, it is easier to ignore noshows. They haven’t shown up, chalk it up to experience and move on. It may be out of our comfort zone to contact the customer. Avoiding what we might perceive as confrontation feels more acceptable.

I remember calling a bride who didn’t turn up a few days after her appointment. Essentially I wanted to find out if she was ok and what had happened.

She told me she had been on holiday and totally forgotten about her appointment. She was full of apologies, we rebooked her there and then. She arrived on time and found her dream dress, too.

So, for those few minutes of feeling: “Should I ring or not”, proved to be worthwhile.

My message? Be brave. We love brides being brave when they articulate their desire for a particular gown, and to go ahead and buy it – we need to practise what we preach, too.

Prevention is better than the cure

If you contact someone and they don’t wish to come along to another appointment, then we need to question if they were your bride anyway.

Reducing the number of no-shows can be made as simple as filtering out those brides who perhaps are not your customers. Quality over quantity is the order of the day.

Getting to know your customers prior to their arrival can help them with any worries or concerns they (and you) may have; you will appear to be more human; they will trust you and feel more committed, at the very least, to showing up, and on time. And at best? Their buying gown from you. Be excited for them. Enthusiasm helps you sell more than product knowledge so create a healthy telephone/online chat culture.

Give them something to look forward to. Make your appointments appealing. The ideal is for them to be eager and keen to get to their appointment.

And do you know something? They’ll probably arrive early!

GREAT NAMES, AMAZING COLLECTIONS

London atelier.

A few years back, James – great-grandson of Ada Ellis – took over the brand and restructured the business. With new internal systems, a new studio space and a change in team James brought a fresh perspective to the longstanding brand, which has 70 hand-picked stockists across the world.

The birth of Ellis Bridals came when on a bright January day in 1910, Ada walked down the aisle to marry Sam wearing the very first Ellis wedding gown. Her distinctive, elegant style struck a chord and word spread fast. Demand grew as brides across England clamoured for an Ellis Bridals creation. The brand blossomed, carving a place at the forefront of British bridalwear and in the 1960s, Ada opened her central

Today, the Ellis bride is looking for a premium product at an accessible price point. From churches to garden weddings, her day will be elegant and timeless yet fun. And she has her pick from a once-a-year collection of around 25 considered pieces, plus the 35 carried-forward gowns, and in addition, some beautiful accessories.

The 2024 collection sees more lace detailing offering a softer, modern look that fits with the brand’s clean, sleek aesthetic, and 3D elements have been

The 2024 collections from Ellis Bridals and sister brand Kelsey Rose offer something special. And special means different when it comes to bridal

ELLIS

introduced. Look out for organza sleeves, illusion tulle detailing and light organdy fabrics creating light and airy silhouettes.

A key story within the Ellis collection is the concept of a base dress with accessories to create multiple looks. ‘Alina’ is the best example of this – a simple satin, strapless ballgown that comes with and without puff satin sleeves and can be layered with a choice of jackets.

And separates are fast gaining traction with brides, offering them an opportunity to personalise their own look or even switch up their look throughout the day. The great thing about the tops is that they can be

paired with skirts or worn on top of the chosen dress.

But it is not only the collections themselves that score point with retailers, it is also the Ellis relationship.

“Quality customer service is always at the forefront of what we do,” James says. “We are a small, hands-on team all based in our London studio so, if a store picks up the phone, they get through directly to our personable customer care team. Whether they need a dress in a hurry or advice on ordering, we are here to help.”

Ellis Bridals

UK sizes 6-28

RRP

£1,200–£2,200

Kelsey Rose is a label with a ‘relaxed’ feel, covering multiple looks from boho luxe to minimal city chic, but the underlying thread that runs through the collection is a lighthearted and informal take on bridal fashion.

Each piece is curated with the wearer in mind to ensure she feels comfortable, and lined in jersey for the ultimate effortless feel so she can dance the night away.

The brand started as the rebellious sister of Ellis Bridals in the 80s but rebranded during lockdown to focus on creating modern bridal looks with a cool-girl ease.

KELSEY ROSE

There is one Kelsey Rose collection a year, launched in March, with around 25 to 30 new pieces each season. For 2024, the brand’s 100 retailers worldwide will delight in the sequinned lace – already a hit with brides – and an amazing all-over sparkle lace that comes in at a highly attractive price. And feathers, flurries of them, are a new feature for the season ahead, too.

Specific design change possibilities are another real benefit to stockists; for example, some dresses can be ordered with or without sleeves as well as in different lengths. And the lace and fabrics used for each style can be purchased so that a bride can create a bespoke look in-store with the seamstress.

Separates, unsurprisingly, are a huge category for Kelsey Rose. From chic trousers to a plisse chiffon skirt to a lace bridal biker jacket, the range offers something for everyone. For 2024, the tops are slightly longer, so

they can be tucked into the bottoms to recreate the look of a dress or a jumpsuit. The options are endless –and after the wedding they can be styled up to wear again!

The whole range is well suited to a destination bride. Lightweight fabrics and floaty silhouettes will take them from barefoot on the beach in Bali to a vineyard in the South of France! Have brides’ tastes changed? “We are starting to see more indecisive brides with the shift of demographic from millennial to Gen-Z,” says James. “Our separates and accessories cater to this, offering options for multiple looks at a price point that is still affordable. Post-covid we have seen an increase in relaxed weddings – garden receptions, destination weddings and registry office ceremonies. With brides looking for softer silhouettes and smaller skirts/ trains, the Kelsey Rose look is the perfect option for this laidback bride.

The past few years have also seen

most likely already bought a house, or is saving to do so, and may already have children. She is a professional woman but may not prioritise a wedding when it comes to her disposable income.”

Kelsey Rose

UK sizes 6-24

RRP £299 to £1,109

Ellis Bridals shows at Bridal Week in March and September as well as European Bridal Week in Essen in April. Its London Showroom is open from March through to September.

See Ellis Bridals and Kelsey Rose at Harrogate Bridal Week, stand KS6.

For details contact Grace Costin on +44 (0)20 8888 8833

grace@studioellis.co.uk

KELSEY ROSE ELLIS

Affordable boho luxe retailing under £1000. View the new collection at Bridal Week London - Stand C49

To book an appointment email info@studioellis.co.uk

Affordable boho luxe retailing under £1000. View the new collection at Bridal Week LondonStand C49

To book an appointment email info@studioellis.co.uk

FROM GROOM TO GROOM

If you retail menswear in the UK, you will certainly know the name Benetti, the Irish fashion-led brand that makes a fully coordinated and very handsome statement

Established in 1999, Benetti now supplies some 250 independent menswear retailers across Ireland and the UK. Known for its comprehensive collection of fashion-forward formalwear as well as casual menswear, footwear and accessories, this is a brand that has gained an enviable

reputation for delivering the best possible quality at a well-positioned price.

Benetti’s latest Mix and Match Collection is a brilliant edit of timeless go-togethers that feature fresh colours, classic styles and smart designs to suit and fit all sizes and meet all taste requirements – be they tailored and traditional, or slim-fit and contemporary.

A navy suit is a sartorial must-have, and investing in the right cut and combination of pieces is key. The best-selling ‘James Navy’ suit and the

new season’s ‘Peter’ suit are examples of the company’s commitment to craftsmanship and the finest fabrics. And all ages in the groom’s party are catered for, from young pageboy size up to a generous size 64R in selected styles.

According to Benetti’s Graham Phebey, sky blue, sage green and light stone look like being he hits of the new season in this adventurous separates collection, all of which are stock-backed so orders can be turned around quickly. The biggest shift Graham has seen in the mens

formalwear market is the preference today for styles that can be dressed up or played down, and you’ll find plenty of choices in the new collection.

Check these out

PHILLIP This lightweight check is fast becoming a bestselling option for all grooms this season. Now available in three colour choices, the new ‘Phillip’ introduces a vibrant update, a great mix and match favourite with the long standing ‘James Navy’ and ‘Peter Ink’ combinations.

GAVIN JASPER

BLACK TIE When only the utmost formality will do, there is simply no substitute for a sharp tuxedo. A stellar choice for many grooms, the classic tuxedo is one style that will certainly stand the test of time. Trimmed with lustrous satin, there are both a shawl or peak lapel collars in the collection.

JASPER A new addition this season, is this luxurious velvet option in the Black Tie collection that comes in four colour options. Securing with a single- button closure, and matched with a 3-button scoop waistcoat, this refined tuxedo is designed in soft velvet with silk-blend accents to add that elevated touch.

Harrogate stand C12

E: benettimenswearuk@gmail.com www.benettimenswear.co.uk

PHILLIP BLUE

PHILLIP SILVER

Isn’t it Romantica

The Romantica Group has been a leader in the bridal industry since it first launched back in 1983, and every year in Harrogate it plays to a packed house in the Crown Hotel. Here’s what you need to know about its stunning portfolio...

Over the past four decades, the Romantica Group has designed hundreds of distinctive bridal gowns across a range of labels, built an ever-expanding loyal clientele and continued to push the boundaries and develop its offering. Proud to be a family-owned and family-run business based in the heart of the Devon countryside, it has evolved into one of the must-have wedding dress brands in Europe. This is a

portfolio with labels that have defining personalities and collections that are skilfully edited to ensure that every gown is a winner.

Romantica Collection

The Spring Summer 2024

Romantica Collection is a balance of contemporary bridal designs, sophisticated silhouettes, exquisite fabrics and classic styles, designed for brides dreaming of an elegant and timeless wedding dress.

Available in sizes 6 to 32, this dreamy collection features a diverse range of both traditional and modern styles to suit every bride’s vision and personality.

Stocked in over 300 stores across Europe and with recommended retail prices up to £1,399, every bride can be the belle of the ball.

Demure square necklines, dreamy flowing chiffons and striking floral lace appliqués are just some of the highlights that feature throughout the collection, all of which are set to be key bridal trends as we head into the new season.

Pure Bridal Pure Bridal is a beautiful collection of feminine wedding dresses. The 2024 spring-summer collection features a selection of gorgeous gowns crafted from soft tulles, airy chiffons and lightweight organzas. The brand is aimed at a younger bride, and with that in mind the recommended retail price is up to £999.

Brides will just love the playful allure of these dresses, adorned with enchanting waist bows and delicate beading, and featuring necklines and sleeves beautifully finished with pretty scalloped lace edging. Pure Bridal is all about affordable luxury.

Jennifer Wren Combining opulent fabrics with stunning detailing, the

Jennifer Wren spring-summer 2024 collection boasts a range of gowns worthy of a red carpet entrance.

Quality craftsmanship for the mid-to-high-end market, with recommended retail prices up to £1,999, each gown is designed to flatter and enhance natural curves, with sizes from 6 to 32. Appealing to the bride who wants to make a statement, this collection features gowns in warm ivory and blush tones, with intricate lacework, heavy beading and daring silhouettes.

Silhouette Available in sizes 16 to 32, Silhouette Bridal is a glamorous collection of gowns that celebrates curves. This plus-size range features flattering silhouettes, from fishtails to

ballgowns, that will make brides feel gorgeous, comfortable and confident. Illusion necklines, flattering sleeves and elegantly placed lace appliqué combine to create a collection brides will fall in love with. With recommended retail prices of up to £1,799, there is a figure-flattering gown for every bride within this collection.

Martin Thornburg A collection as diverse as the brides wearing them, Martin Thornburg’s bridal dresses are designed to make each bride feel beautiful and unique.

The American designer creates two collections each year, using highquality fabrics, hand-beading with Swarovski crystals and impeccable

PURE BRIDAL JENNIFER WREN

tailoring. Recommended retail prices mainly range from £1,499 to £2,999 and each design is available in sizes 6 to 32, catering to each and every bride. The new collection includes a fashionable selection of ballgowns, fishtail dresses and unique silhouettes for stylish brides.

Sophia Tolli Designed in Sydney, Australia, the Sophia Tolli collection features luxurious fabrics, exquisite embellishments and an attention to detail that is unmatched. Celebrating every bride’s shape, style and personality, the 2024 collection features a selection of classic lace looks and chic, contemporary designs. The brand can be found in hundreds of retailers worldwide and with recommended retail prices between £1,199 and £2,499, there is a gown that every bride can dare to dream of.

About the Romantica Group

The Romantica Group celebrated 40 years of trading this year. The company started with Sally Waddington as designer and factory manager and her husband, Mike Waddington, as Sales Director. With a small factory, in the heart of the Devon countryside, and 20 talented machinists, The Romantica Group became a leading bridal brand over the coming years.

The Romantica Collections are stocked in over 300 stores in the UK and over 500 stores across Europe. Honesty, integrity and family values are at the heart of the business, which is proud to remain a family-owned and family-run concern to this day.

The head office is still based in the Devon countryside, where three more family members have now joined the company to drive the business forwards. The Romantica Group are

powered by solar panels for most of their operation in the UK, including their purpose-built steam tunnel, which steams up to 150 dresses an hour!

The diverse design team sets the company apart from other dress designers and manufacturers. Sally Waddington continues to be head of design, and her wealth of knowledge enables her to lead the creative team. Her experience in knowing what brides are looking for in a wedding dress is invaluable. With expertise in different areas, including textile design, pattern cutting, construction and draping, the design team ensure each dress is produced to an exceptional standard.

The team at The Romantica Group are constantly drawing inspiration from the ever-changing concept of the ‘wedding’, allowing them to keep up with bridal trends. The feedback from brides and retailers are key influences

SILHOUETTE

MARTIN THORNBURG

in creating each new collection.

The design team are constantly familiarising themselves with new fabrics and embellishments to bring a fresh feel to each collection. Threedimensional floral embellishments continue to be a front-runner in bridal trends. Plain satins, crisp mikados and luxurious crepes are ever-popular and the bridal industry expects to see a variety of sleek designs as we head into 2024.

More than ever, brides are searching for timeless wedding dresses, with a flattering silhouette, that showcases their personality and style. Within each collection there is a dress for every bride – whether they are marrying in a lavish traditional church wedding ceremony or eloping for an intimate destination wedding.

Looking forward, the company is excited to move into a new phase of business as the European distributor

for Mon Cheri Bridal Group alongside their Romantica Collections. With new collections under the Sophia Tolli and Martin Thornburg labels launching for 2024, the team are excited to meet both existing partners and new stockists alike to showcase the new ranges. The Mon Cheri Collections are stocked in thousands of retailers worldwide.

The Romantica Group has also recently opened its new distribution centre in Germany, which will offer continued support to its European customers with improved delivery times and service levels.

If the company are asked for a change to be made to a gown for a specific retailer, the adjustment is always considered. Time scale is taken into account, but specials are available on request, be it a sleeve adjustment, different back or length options. The Romantica Group like to work with

their selected retailers in a partnership, nurturing the relationship and ensuring the needs of the stockist, and in turn the bride, are met. Romantica has proudly been working with many of its partnered retailers for decades and James Waddington, as current Sales Director, visits stores his Dad did over 30 years ago!

All of the labels The Romantica Group represent are shown at Harrogate Bridal Week and European Bridal Week each year. You can visit them and view the full collections at Harrogate, 10-12 September 2023. They will be showcasing their bridal gowns at The Crown Hotel, Harrogate, and on the main catwalk stage in the halls.

Contact James Waddington at sales@ romanticaofdevon.co.uk if you would like to make an appointment or to enquire about availability in your area. www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

SOPHIA TOLLI ROMANTICA COLLECTION

Combining opulent fabrics with stunning detailing, the Jennifer Wren SS 24 collection boasts a range of gowns worthy of a red carpet entrance. Please contact kerry@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information on becoming a stockist.

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

Combining opulent fabrics with stunning detailing, the Jennifer Wren SS 24 collection boasts a range of gowns worthy of a red carpet entrance. Please contact kerry@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information on becoming a stockist.

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

Material Matters

Zers? Estate Agents – house prices; storage costs; rent? Get the plot here?

I’m stressed because I am trying to downsize, move away from the Big Family House to something more manageable, but I don’t want to live in a tiny over-priced box on a main road with a tube line running through the garden, next to a house with three sofas dumped in the garden and a group of dodgy-looking youths sitting on plastic milk crates. Believe me, I’ve seen them all.

But I am not going to talk about my personal life here, that would be inappropriate. So I thought I do a piece on beautiful lace wedding dresses that I love.

it’s a bit dull to just write about long sleeved, lace wedding dresses, with high necks and a full skirt, seen on style icons for generations, so I added tulle to the mix, a bit of satin, definitely crêpe with a bit of 3D appliqué and what do you know, within a minute or two my mind had wandered to opening a bridal Atelier that I could fill with all the wonderful dresses I had selected.

Never mind the new house, suddenly this was very interesting! I have seen these dresses in the flesh, at exhibitions and shows. I have selected dresses for shoots for years, I would make a great buyer!

When the Editor said:

“This month, it’s your choice of subject”, I hit a blank wall 30 seconds in – all stories and pieces I wanted to write just left my brain and slammed the ideas door firmly shut.

I thought about great articles I could do: Time for a good rant? The cost of everything? Love Island? Gen

I was channelling thoughts about Grace Kelly after seeing Elle Fanning appearing as Grace in an amazing new short film and stills for Cartier (it would be vulgar of me to call it an advert). The Hollywood star was known for her love of Cartier, and they even gave her pieces for her wedding to Prince Rainier! HELLO! I’m here. I love Cartier, too!

I know not everybody will be inspired by an ad, but I take my inspiration where I can; this one is sophisticated… and a lifetime away from TikTok!

Once I started writing, I thought

I realise, of course, that retailing is tricky, especially now. I know I can’t step away from my personal idea of how someone should look. Note the emphasis is on MY IDEA – maybe I have spent too many years dressing models who are paid to look good and not offer opinions.

But in my magical imaginary shop I would stock desirable dresses, fabulous jackets, bags, small, sparkly and perfect, over the elbow gloves – a must-have at the moment – plus a good selection of statement earrings, oversized veils, chic headpieces and pairs of dreamy shoes. It would look like a fabulous dressing room with

One minute she’s planning a home move, the next a career switch, but it is her passion for bridal fashion that always wins out

ALBERTO PALATCHI

JENNY PACKHAM

loads of space and no overcrowding. By this time, my imaginary shop had turned into a small department store but I hadn’t even got on to staffing this dream. I may have crashed the first hurdle, as I don’t think I’m a natural retailer.

I don’t have the patience needed, I’d probably terrify customers, I know I am a dictator, me shouting at someone to buy a dress would not work and I would sulk if they didn’t take my very valuable insight and advice over one of their entourage whose dress sense I didn’t admire. My customer experience would not get high ratings.

No, this was definitely not going anywhere fast. So within seconds of starting this wedding emporium game (it’s a bit like fantasy football but instead of building a great side I was pulling together great designers), I realised I had a very narrow view of what a bride should look like, and more importantly would go broke within a week!

So time to rethink my skills set.

Sadly, I crossed retailer off the list. Accepting that I am not fit for that job, I go back to my column theme... and I am focusing on fabrics for dream dresses.

Lace

Lace has a long history in weddings, symbolizing purity, modesty, and grace. Although some of the more saucy designers out there may have skipped the purity and modesty part, its use is deeply rooted in wedding traditions. None of the dresses I’ve picked are created using scratchy, itchy, lace... they are all super lux. A beautiful, soft lace is worth its weight in gold.

Tulle and chiffon

Tulle, so dreamy when layered and gathered to create volume and structure in a ballgown – I love the natural flow and movement that tulle and chiffon create. A big tulle skirt not only adds drama and movement to a ballgown, but creates a romantic and elegant aesthetic loved by

WONA ATELIER

MILLA NOVA

KATHERINE TASH

many brides on their special day. There’s nothing wrong with a bit of old school Hollywood glamour.

Crêpe

Crêpe is the perfect fabric for an understated chic look. I love the clean lines that can be created if it has a little stretch in it, becoming more forgiving in a straighter silhouette. It is the perfect fabric for making a statement. It looks clean and expensive. No wonder designers love working with it.

Satin

A good heavy satin exudes luxury and glamour – back to red carpet and Hollywood again! It can drape beautifully when cut to perfection

I envy women who can wear a biascut slip dress on their big day. The slip has been this summer’s go-to dress – it’s a style that rocketed Kate Moss to fame in the 90s and has become a fashion staple, and a bridal one, too, whether worn for the main event or as a second party dress.

Celebrities play a role in shaping wedding dress trends; when a highprofile couple gets married it can create an effect on the bridal industry.

Bridal fashion is influenced by a variety of sources – film, music, historical trends, cultural traditions, runway fashion, and individual designer creativity. Hollywood red carpet events undoubtedly contribute to the ever-evolving demands of brides to be.

However, if you produced any of the dresses I have selected this month in another colour, they would still be standout and amazing. I think it’s important to recognise that bridal designers are often not given the accolades they deserve, when fashion designers have the choice of any colour, direction and whim to make their statement collection.

It really makes me appreciate how much talent there is out there in our industry, and we need to be celebrating that.

Take a bow bridal designers, I think you are creative geniuses.

INES DI SANTO

ROSA_CLARA

VIKTOR & ROLF

ANNE-BARGE

MARCHESA

EMMA BEAUMONT KATE FEARNLEY

Stand: Qo

IN CONVERSATION

Rainbow Club

Richard Marsh has long ensured that his collections are one step ahead of trends. We talked to him about the company, its enviable credentials and its 2024 offering

When was the company founded and how would you describe the brand personality?

Rainbow Club launched in 1986 with its very first footwear collection and has since evolved into the go-to destination for bridal and occasion footwear and accessories.

If we had to describe our brand and collections in three words, they would be: Curated, Expert and Classic. These are the credentials we live by. We produce stylish and dependable footwear that will see our customers through the most important occasions of their lives.

Who is your design force?

We are really lucky to be working with the incredibly talented designer and founder of Women’s footwear brand PORTHIA, Porthia Tantivorawong. Porthia holds a fashion degree from the prestigious design school, Istituto Marangoni, and has cut her teeth designing

ZURI

MIRABELLA

AMARA

AMYLA

FRANCES

excellence ensure we are continuing to elevate the Rainbow Club name in a space we know so well. We are very proud to call her our Creative Director.

Okay, Harrogate’s coming up. What new features can we expect to see?

glistening crystals and pearls, all intricately intertwined with silk satin and tulle ruching. These elements come together to create a distinctive selection that allows every bride to find her perfect match for that unforgettable moment.

We’ve heard there’s a new addition to the portfolio. Tell all…

Yes, there is and we are extremely excited to introduce our ‘R’ collection. A captivating and accessible bridal shoe line designed to cater to the aspirations of every bridal budget.

Recognising the diverse needs of brides, we are taking a step forward with ‘R’ to embrace a younger audience seeking affordable yet stylish options. ‘R’ opens the door for the brand to be more receptive to emerging fashion trends and cater to the preferences of a youthful clientele.

How does it differs from the main Rainbow Club line?

Best to explain that is Porthia Tantivorawong, who says: “I envision Rainbow Club as a formal wedding at a majestic cathedral, characterised by meticulous planning and attention to detail, while ‘R’ embodies the spirit of a whimsical elopement at a town hall ceremony.

Both are incredibly romantic and hold momentous meaning to the couple”.

How many retailers do you have in the UK?

We have 250 Bridal stockists here.

Minimums – that’s an ongoing conversation with retailers who have to juggle their spends in these challenging times. Your views?

We feel strongly that retailers shouldn’t be forced to commit to minimums – instead we reward our retailers if they choose to place larger orders on key/advertised lines.

Do your stockists get exclusivity? And do they carry stock?

It’s important to us that we keep each of our retailers and their customers happy, so we are always open to discuss an exclusivity arrangement. Most of our retailers do carry stock and will sell in their stores across the UK or online via their direct to consumer websites (DTC).

important. We’ve also definitely seen a movement towards block heels for brides and wedding guests who appreciate that extra level of support and comfort.

Our refined yet utterly elegant sandal Margot is one of our bestselling styles and often has a waiting list because of its versatility. This style boasts a block heel at a height of 6.25cm, which seems to be the perfect sweet spot for our bridal customer.

We have also expanded our range of platform silhouettes, following the success of key marketing style Gracie for SS23. Amara and Zuri – new for SS24 – are perfect for the modern bride looking to add a retro flare to her bridal look”.

marketing activity focuses heavily on communicating our brand message and values via engaging and topical content and user-generated content (UGC) from customers, as well as through our community of influencers. We want brides to know that we offer footwear beyond just the big day, so our current focus is to really showcase our unique Colour Studio service as we embark on our expansion into the occasionwear space.

Where are your products manufactured?

All our products including our new Occasion line are produced in our established and proven partner factories, where we have been

exclusively manufacturing our collection for over 25 years.

Eco friendly – does it apply to you and what are you doing to satisfy brides who are into sustainability? Like many other footwear brands, we are on a journey with sustainability and continually scrutinising our supply chain to see where we can make improvements without compromising on the quality and craftsmanship our customers have grown to love.

Our main focus currently is on extending the lifespan of our footwear and ensuring our products aren’t just bought for one day, never to be worn again. We have an incredible asset in our Colour Studio and this unique hand-dyeing service allows us to offer our consumers a second life for their bridal shoes.

Our newly relaunched ‘Capsule’ colour service allows consumers to shop from an expertly-curated palette of 40 must-have shades, 20 neutrals and 20 brights, that will be updated season-on-season to ensure we are always offering the latest shades. While those looking for something more couture can opt for our ‘Bespoke’ service where we can directly colour match almost any shade.

Where do you show the collection?

Currently we are only showing at Harrogate. However, we are hoping to explore more events and exhibitions where we can reach potential new customers. This September we’ll be in our forever spot, stand M40.

Price increases – have you had to impose them?

There have been some moderate price increases on select styles for SS24, but only where necessary, and we then hold those prices for a 12-month period – giving our retail partners some peace of mind.

Rainbow Club

+44 (0)1392 207 030

shoes@rainbowclub.co.uk

European Bridal Week Awarded The Title Of Best Bridal Fashion Exhibition 2023

The organisers of the largest bridal industry trade event of the year in northern Europe, where 500 design-driven collections met with the event’s record number of retailers from no less than 48 countries, are thrilled and delighted with the recognition that comes from winning the title in this year’s Global Wedding Awards

iegrid Hampsink, Event Director of European Bridal Week,

is justly proud. “l feel truly honoured and humbled,” she said when it was announced that the Messe Essen show had picked up the top title. “We have always set new standards, and saw renewed enthusiasm among those involved after two years of pandemic and post pandemic quiet. EBW has long been an important force in northern Europe, but now it is firmly positioned on the global stage, featuring an exclusive designer area and fantastic fashion shows. The fact that all of this is being recognised now is something incredibly special for all of us.”

Andrew Lookman, Managing Director of United Fairs, organisers of the exhibition, knows it has been a long road. “Of course, we are all thrilled and delighted about this special award,” he said. “As a team we simply love what we do for our exhibitors and visitors every day. Everybody goes the extra mile to create a magical experience for everyone involved. It’s no surprise that the tagline of the show is ‘Creating

“Being awarded the ‘Best Bridal Fashion Exhibition 2023’ title by LUX Life in their Global Wedding Awards is an honour that we would like to share and pass on to our exhibitors and visitors. Because great things can only be achieved when you know that you are surrounded by strong partners in the industry who value an honest way of working with each other while

Plans are already in full swing for the 2024 show, which again will be held at Messe Essen. Get the date –13-15 April 2024 – in your diary now. Not surprisingly, many bookings have already been confirmed and exhibitors and visitors alike can look forward to another brilliant event focused on high-quality collections from all sectors of the industry.

www.europeanbridalweek.com

The Write Way

to Harrogate?

Obviously, the fundamental item you need is a smartphone, and the one you already have is probably capable of fulfilling most of your needs when partnered with a good note-taking app.

Notes apps are incredibly flexible these days, enabling you to write, type or dictate notes and supplement them with photos, audio and video. All notes can be stored immediately in the cloud not only so you don’t lose anything if your battery dies, but your

colleagues back at the ranch can see the stuff in real time if it is important enough.

The most popular options are Apple Notes for iPhone and Google Keep for Android, which are powerful and free, Microsoft’s OneNote is also free but many features are only available with a Microsoft 365 subscription. Paid-for apps such as Evernote have the advantage that they are truly cross-platform, so notes can easily be exchanged between iOS, MacOS, Android and Windows.

The sudden prevalence of QR codes on exhibition booths nowadays means it is a good idea to learn how to scan them on your phone. With an iPhone, you just open the front-facing camera and point it at the code – the link should appear immediately and you can either cut and paste it into a note or click on it and record the URL in your note. In Android, it is slightly trickier – you must take a picture of the QR code and then use Google Lens to read it.

The great thing about notes apps these days is the many ways you can create them, so you can use the method you find most convenient.

If you like typing on the smartphone keyboard, go ahead. Voice recognition is incredibly fast and accurate now, making it very easy to talk into the phone and see typescript appearing in the note (just tap the microphone icon above the keyboard to get started).

Handywork

Handwriting is one of my favourite options, but writing with your finger is ungainly and slow. The best

Going

Technology can help you get the best out of the show, allowing you to record everything you see and share the experience with colleagues. Chris Partridge tells you what kit you need

GALAXY Z FOLD5

device for writing on screen is a stylus, but this limits you to Android phones as Apple’s Pencil works only on tablets (though an iPad Mini combined with Pencil is an excellent alternative to an iPhone for note taking on the exhibition floor, and you get the bigger screen, too).

For diehard stylus fans, the way forward is either a Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra, which comes with Samsung’s brilliant S pen secreted in a silo in the case, or the new Galaxy Z Fold5, which has an optional S pen that can be carried in a neat pocket in a phone case.

Is this the one?

The Fold5 could be the ultimate exhibition tool, combining a pocketable form factor when folded and a generous 7.6in screen when unfolded.

The cameras are excellent and now have AI-driven low light capabilities so you don’t lose detail in the cavernous gloom of the halls.

Unfortunately, all this comes at a wallet-stretching cost – prices start at £1,850 and that is without the S pen or case.

The S23 Ultra with its 6.8in screen is lighter, more compact and not quite as ridiculously expensive – prices start at £1,400 and that includes the S pen.

If you prefer to take notes with a real pen and a proper paper notebook, but would like your notes to be available in online form as well, a digital pen may be for you.

The first digital pen was the Livescribe. It works with special

paper printed with an almost invisible pattern of dots. The pen has a camera next to the nib, which records every stroke with amazing accuracy as a digital file that can then be uploaded to your laptop, tablet, smartphone or directly to the cloud.

The unique feature of the Livescribe pens is that they record audio simultaneously, linking your notes with the audio. For a journalist this is brilliant – you can record an interview and take notes, and when you come to write it up you can instantly play the quote you need by tapping your note. Your notes are also transcribed into typescript if they are legible enough.

Livescribe pens come in two varieties, the Echo 2 (£95), which records the audio directly, and the Symphony (£110), which is much slimmer and lighter but only records pen strokes – the audio is recorded on your smartphone using the Livescribe+ app.

Notepads

A wide variety of notepads from A4 wirewound pads to stylish hardbound books is available.

Moleskine fans can go digital with the uber-stylish Ellipse pen, which works with Moleskine’s Smart Notebooks.

Start out with the Smart Writing Set including pen and notebook at £210 – that is all you probably need to carry round the exhibition hall, but gathering your materials later in the cafe or your hotel room, you may find a couple of extra gadgets handy.

One is a portable keyboard for comfortable typing. Take a look

at the Zagg Trifold, an ingenious keyboard with standard size keys and a touchpad, but which folds up into a pocket-size packet that weighs just 340g. It pairs with any device via Bluetooth and costs just £33.

Scanners

Another device that can make life easier is a portable scanner. Although smartphones can scan documents using their cameras, if you have a pile of documents it can be quicker to feed them though a scanner, and because you don’t have to worry about the lighting the results are usually better, too.

The ScanSnap S1100i from Fujitsu is compact and light and easy to carry around. Feeding documents in is easy using the continuous document feeding function, under which the device detects the end of one document and drags the next one in. The straight document path means quite thick cards can be scanned, but the U-turn path enables scanning to be done in confined spaces.

The scanner is powered by a USB cable so it can be plugged into your laptop or a charging socket.

One of the big features is the ScanSnap software, which makes it easy to scan items such as business cards. The software extracts all the information and automatically creates a new contact in Outlook, Excel and other contact management software. OCR also enables documents to be scanned directly into editable Microsoft Word, Excel or PowerPoint documents. All this for £125, which seems great value.

LIVESCRIBE ECHO

MOLESKIN SMART WRITING SET

TEAM MEETINGS... A BUSINESS MUST

messages, etc can be missed, and important information can be forgotten about, not passed on.

Ditto for your employees who work part time. The last thing anyone wants to hear is: “I wasn’t there that day”, “That person isn’t in on a Monday”, etc.

What makes a fabulous team? A team should be continually evolving, creative and dynamic under your leadership and guidance. Discussing goals, targets and decision making on appropriate levels. Sharing ideas and working

towards a common goal results in long-term business success.

As a business owner, you may not have the time to be with your team every day of the week, working with them regularly and assessing how they perform as individuals and as part of the team. Often, information,

Of course, thanks to social media, you can conduct an online meeting that those who are not physically present in the workplace can attend. It also helps you experience that all important human factor. When you speak to someone face to face in the same room or online, much can be read in body language signals.

Streamlining your business

Mastering individual and team skills is crucial in developing a healthy and thriving work place – a place where people want to work.

Helena Cotter advises

systems and maintaining excellent record-keeping to ensure a fully functioning business is vitally important. Therefore, you should be implementing systems and business practices that ensure every single member of staff is always informed and kept in the picture.

When you have regular meetings, it is far easier to deliver a message as a whole, to everyone – where possible at the same time – rather than trying to do it piece-meal and having to repeat yourself. It also gives all your team the chance to participate, which is healthy for business.

Rotating who has responsibility for taking a meeting is also an interesting

practice. Giving people ownership of a meeting and setting the agenda lets everyone see the business from a different angle.

Give all your staff a voice. Let them feel confident about taking part in the meetings.

Everyone on the same page

It’s important to remember we all learn in different ways and at different speeds. Taking this into account when working with your team and when carrying out meetings will help everyone understand the message you are trying to deliver clearly and concisely.

When you have regular meetings,

you can collectively achieve goals in a simpler way. Discussing how you all feel you can work together to help the business become even more successful gives a feeling of trust and pride in the team as a whole and individually, too.

Meetings help all who work with you understand the policies, procedures and job requirements needed for a fully rounded vibrant team. Processes can always be reviewed, improved and developed at meetings. Not having goals, targets, vision and clarity leads to a stale working environment. No one wants that.

Your team provide valuable

information about how your busin ess is functioning – from the coal face, so to speak. Encouraging dialogue and diversity of thought and ideas leads to a productive and progressive place to work.

Training made a difference

Combining meetings with regular training takes meetings to another level because it provides the perfect setting for learning.

Booking training from an outside source means the pressure is taken off you as a business owner. Training provides you with a very clear understanding of how well any particular staff member is performing and also highlights any areas which may need a little attention going forward.

When you encourage regular meetings, your team will feel like they belong. They’ll feel like a valuable part of the team, that they are not working by themselves, abandoned and deserted.

Sharing stories and experiences makes for a very strong and resilient team.

Celebrating professional achievements and goals collectively is a great way to bond and knit a team together. Alongside a professional approach, laughing, being upbeat and enjoying your work is a good thing. When staff are unhappy so are your customers.

Meetings help build strong relationships in business. Employee engagement is one of the most important factors when looking to build a cohesive team.

Leading the team

Prepare well for meetings. Know what you want to talk about prior to the meeting date. Try as much as possible to stick to the items on your list/ agenda.

Meetings can drag on and lose their vitality if they are diluted by too much drifting off topic. It obviously helps to ask staff in advance if there are any subjects they wish to cover at the next session.

Regular meetings cement bonds. Gathering the team together in one place helps motivate people individually and as a team. Avoid having meetings just to impart news which isn’t positive. Saying that, it is important, as we have mentioned, to always encourage

moved on from. The last thing anyone needs are festering issues. They can, and will, affect staff performance and team building, and leave a feeling of helplessness. It will also 100% tip over onto the shop floor. Customers can tell a mile off if something doesn’t feel right.

Problems and concerns can be nipped in the bud in team meetings (Unless, of course, it’s a highly personal one-on-one individual type meeting required) so they are not allowed to develop into large complications, disputes and troubles.

people to come forward if there are any potential problems brewing. Regular meetings provide the perfect opportunity to share any changes and updates with your team about the business.

Any new projects, sales figures and how well everyone is doing can be highly motivational for the whole team. Staff are looking to you to lead the business. This is a hugely important role for any business owner. Confidence comes from you. Ability comes from your team and how you instil the values and beliefs you have. When these are perfectly in sync you are on to a winning formula.

Meetings certainly help solve any lingering issues

We all know how fabulous it is to work in a bridal boutique. The glamour, the gowns, the brides, the whole package. It is an exceedingly wonderful career. Sometimes though, things can go a little awry. Life isn’t perfect and working in a tight knit team may be challenging on occasions. When you encourage meetings where your staff feel they have a voice, any niggles can be easily dissipated, dealt with and

Teams are usually able to ride the storm and help resolve key issues affecting the business. Time and money can be saved when dealing with problems directly. Also, you won’t be having to repeat yourself.

How regular is regular?

This is going to vary based on your own set up. Twice a week meetings are the perfect formula if you are able to do so. Friday mornings are ideal –you can discuss how the week has been and what is happening over the weekend. Similarly, Monday mornings are also great for meetings. You can discuss what is happening that week and into the weekend. Practise regular meetings so they become second nature. Routine is very good for business – and your team.

Lastly, ask for feedback from your team. As we have said, they are at the very epicentre of the business. They are therefore invaluable when it comes to you finding out how and where improvements can be made for the betterment of all the team and in turn, your business.

Helena Cotter

T: +44 (0)1582 451238 /+44 (0)7896

944759

E: info@helenacotter.co.uk

www.helenacotter.co.uk

“Giving people ownership of a meeting and setting the agenda lets everyone see the business from a different angle.”

Corporate sustainability and fashion: Where is the EU going... and the UK?

The European Parliament has adopted the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive, which will require businesses to consider and combat the effects their business activities have on human rights and the environment. As such, the Directive will have a substantial impact on fashion businesses and businesses within the wider supply chains in which they operate.

Who will the Directive apply to?

w UK and other non-EU companies which generated a net turnover of more than €150m in the EU in the last financial year

w UK and non-EU companies which generated a net turnover of €40m–€150m in the EU in the last financial year, provided that 50% of the net turnover was generated in one or more of a number of business sectors, including those involved with manufacturing textiles, engaging in agricultural activities and the extraction of natural resources.

(‘Relevant Sectors’)

Irrespective of this, the Directive will also apply to:

w EU companies with more than 500 employees and a net worldwide turnover of more than €150 million in the last financial year; or

w EU companies with more than

250 employees and an average net worldwide turnover of more than €40m in the last financial year, provided that 50% of the net turnover was generated in one of the Relevant Sectors.

UK businesses supplying EU companies which come within either 1 or 2 can be expected to be required by these EU companies to comply with the Directive, even though the Directive does not directly apply to the UK businesses.

When will the Directive come into effect?

The Directive is expected to come into force by 2025, following which each of the 27 EU Member States will have two years in which to implement the Directive into their national legislation.

What will businesses be required to do under the Directive?

The general aim of the Directive is to encourage businesses to play an active role in considering the impact which their businesses, subsidiaries, and the wider value chain in which they operate has on human rights and the environment.

In order to achieve this aim, directors of businesses will be required to play an active role in conducting due diligence to identify key areas of risk which their business and the supply

chain may have with respect to human rights and the environment. Having identified and considered such risks, they will be required to establish processes to prevent, mitigate, and account for the impact of those risks.

Large businesses (with a turnover of more than €150 m) will also be required to ensure that their business practices are compatible with the ambitious target set by the signatories of the Paris Agreement to limit the increase of global warming to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels.

The draft Directive has been criticised for the generality of the obligations which companies are expected to meet. For example, the Directive does not set quantifiable targets against which companies can demonstrate or measure their performance.

This is understandable given the wide range and varying size of the businesses targeted by the Directive. However, it is also likely that the Directive will be interpreted differently by Member States adding to businesses’ compliance obligations.

How will compliance with the Directive be monitored and how will the Directive be enforced?

Currently, the Directive envisages that it will be enforced by the supervisory

We bring you information of new legalities that could affect your business. Advice from the experts really matters...

authorities of each Member State. Companies which fail to comply with the Directive may face civil liability in the form of damages, and directors may be held personally liable for their failure to comply with their fiduciary duties. You can read more about directors’ duties insofar as they relate to the Directive at www.foxwilliams. com/2023/06/29/claims-againstdirectors-for-esg-breaches-arecoming/.

At present the Directive also envisages that, where a director’s remuneration is linked to company performance, their overall contribution to sustainability should be considered when deciding their total remuneration package.

Are similar provisions already in force?

France and Germany have already taken the initiative to adopt national sustainability laws which are similar (and in some cases go further) than what is proposed under the Directive. For example, since the adoption of the French Anti-waste and Circular Economy Law, it is now forbidden

to destroy unsold goods in France. Further, retailers which sell into France are now required to disclose details on product labels regarding the impact which products have on the environment.

Similarly, in Germany, a complaint was recently made against the German-headquartered car manufacturer Volkswagen under the equivalent German sustainability legislation.

VW has been accused of using forced Uyghur labour in its factory in Xinjiang, China, which has prompted VW to engage independent auditors to examine VW’s labour practices throughout its entire supply chain. This highlights the fact that it is not enough for businesses to get away with meeting sustainability requirements on their home turf.

The Directive is likely to bring similar consequences for noncompliant businesses with multinational operations and demonstrate the need to consider the impact which a business and its entire supply chain has on human rights and the environment.

How to prepare for the Directive? Whilst 2025 seems like a way off, all UK fashion businesses selling into the EU should consider the Directive and its effects as soon as possible. Here is what you can do to prepare:

w Familiarise yourself with the requirements of the Directive. In particular, ensure that your directors are aware of what will be required of them under the new rules.

w Discuss the Directive with your customers and suppliers. Make sure that they are also aware of the requirements and that they too are putting in place appropriate processes in order to comply with the Directive.

w Put in place processes to assess the impact which your business has on the environment and human rights sooner rather than later. Record this information and make sure that it is easily accessible.

© 2023 Fox Williams LLP   Hannah McCullagh is an associate and Stephen Sidkin is a partner at Fox Williams LLP

The Commercial Agents Regulations – alive and kicking

Speculation as to whether the Commercial Agents Regulations would be removed from the UK statute book was put firmly to bed with the enactment last month of the controversial Retained EU Law (Revocation and Reform) Act.

That said, while the Regulations (and their Northern Irish equivalents) remain as law, the position is not quite as clear cut as might have been hoped.

How we got here

Before the UK left the EU on 31 December 2020, a decision was taken by the government that all EU law existing at that date (EU retained law or REUL) would remain part of UK law.

This meant, for example, that the EU Agents Directive and judgments of the Court of Justice of the European Union (‘European Court’) remained part of UK law after Brexit.

Then it was recognised that over time EU retained law might change. However, in 2022 the situation changed fundamentally with the publication of a Bill which would have seen, among other things, all EU law repealed or sunsetted on 31 December 2023, unless expressly saved.

Why the controversy?

In practice, this would have applied to around 4,000 pieces of legislation and resulted in great legislative uncertainty, as well as uncertainty for a host of cases before the courts of the UK.

With the enactment of the Retained EU Law (Revocation and Reform) Act, as Mark Twain (almost) wrote, ‘reports of the death of the Commercial Agents Regulations have been grossly exaggerated.’

However, the Act results in (among other things), the following:

w The abolition of the supremacy of retained EU law in the UK on 31 December 2023. As such UK courts will not have to follow the judgments of the European Court as at 31 December 2020 when it comes to the interpretation of the Regulations and, in turn, the Directive.

w The abolition of the general principles of EU law in UK law on 31 December 2023. Again principles of EU law as at 31 December 2020 which have been applied by UK courts in the interpretation of the Directive will no longer be applied in the interpretation of the Regulations.

w The giving of significant powers to the Government to revoke and replace secondary REUL after 31 December 2023.

What does this mean in practice?

Barring fundamental shifts in the UK’s status as a “third country” so far as the EU is concerned and in the Government’s approach to its relationship with the EU, it is inevitable that over time there will be divergence between the judgments of the UK courts and the European Court in how the Regulations and the Directive are interpreted.

It is a small part of a much larger issue described recently in the Financial Times as Brexit 2. As such:

w UK principals with agents in the EU

will be faced with great uncertainty in the understanding of their agents’ legal position if the agency agreements in place are not expressly stated to be governed by and interpreted in accordance with one of English, Scottish, or Northern Irish law. w The same will be true for UK agents with EU principals where their agency agreements are expressly governed by and interpreted in accordance with the laws of one of the 27 Member States of the European Union.

What should principals and agents do?

The enactment of the Act highlights the need for principals and agents to review their existing agency agreements in order to:

1. Check what is stated as the governing law.

2. Check that they are comfortable with relevant agency agreements being governed by the law stated.

3. Understand what their position is if no governing law is stated in an agreement.

4. Take the opportunity to put in place written agency agreements if their existing agreements are unwritten.

© 2023 Fox Williams LLP

Ashkon Camyab is a trainee solicitor and Stephen Sidkin is a partner at Fox Williams LLP (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

Wedding Trader is working closely with Fox Williams under whose care fashion businesses flourish with everything from securing intellectual property rights to renegotiating agency agreements and commercial leases. (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

“It has been a horrible few months, no question about that, but it gives me real reassurance reading in Trader that others are experiencing the same ups and fairly dramatic downs as I am – feeling you are not alone makes a big difference, and also encourages communications with others. I know things will improve, and also that it is not just here in the UK where couples themselves are facing challenges and having to make difficult decisions. I really believe Harrogate will see new friendships being formed between retailers – it will be worth going for that alone. When you work as a two-man band, conversations and comparisons with others makes such a difference.”

“I was surprised and fascinated to read in the Letter from America column in the last issue that our friends across the pond are facing similar shifts in attitudes among brides that are affecting the health of many businesses who are reliant on them. I always assume things are fine there.”

finally

Ups and downs, ins and outs, but so much to look forward to

“Advice needed, please. Has anyone else moved from a main-road location with masses of passers by, to a quiet backstreet in the same town? My rent increases are putting such a strain on my business and a move somewhere more affordable would make a huge difference. I have seen several properties that would work in terms of size – and charm, I have to say –but they do not have traffic or pedestrians on the doorstep.”

And“I have to admit that I am a real novice when it comes to maximising on social media and quite frankly have no real idea if I am getting it right, other than I am getting brides in who saw a post of mine on Instagram or Facebook. Do I look for a specialist company (I naturally have to be cost-concerned here), or find an individual with some experience or at least interest in bridal? What route have other readers found to be successful?”

Got a view you want to share with like-minded others? Want suggestions from industry colleagues? Email me – susi@rogol-goodkind.com – and we’ll get the conversation going. We are for retailers, and about retailers.

DONNA SALADO

“It must be very satisfying for your team to be able to voice honest and heartfelt opinions without having to be concerned about offending parent companies etc. You certainly don’t hold back and I for one really appreciate your unfettered attitude.”