Wedding Trader - Issue 39

Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Layers of detail

PILING ON THE LATEST STYLE STATEMENTS

Girl talk BRIDESMAIDS’ FAVOURITES FOR THE NEW SEASON

ISSUE 39 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

Trade shows TOO MANY? OR NOT ENOUGH? OVER TO YOU

FOR HERE REAT THE GTISH BRI EAR W L A D BRI AILERS RET

Special extras SELLING ACCESSORIES

Men’s room WHAT THE GUYS ARE GOING FOR

For more information on becoming a Tiffanys stockist please contact – Andy Jones 02380 334322 E: Andy@tiffanys-online.co.uk

tiffanyswholesale

@tiffanysbridaldresses

www.tiffanys-online.co.uk

Atelier ELYSEEBRIDAL.COM

11

NEWS New collections, people and places

16

F I RST P E R SON Laura Daly, over the years

18

ACCESSORIES Making the most of those extra sales

24

L ET TE R FR OM AMER ICA Facts and figures of the US market

54

MATERIAL MATTERS Heathcoat is a long-established name in fabrics, with a thoroughly modern take on today's needs

58

T IFFANY WHO LESA LE A portfolio you should know

62

A NE W APPR OAC H Romantica on its development plans

66

TRENDS IN GROOMSWEAR A picture of the in-demand styles

70

T DR Realising a dream and what others can learn from one woman's determintion

26

B E A WINNER Ellie Sanderson on entering awards

30

SHOWS How many trade events are enough?

34

REFUNDS What you can and should do

74

FULL OF RESOLVE A handful of pledges for 2024

36

READY MAID Our round up of a girl's best friends

76

B R IDESTAL K Accessories – who wants what?

42

HARROGATE FASHION WEEK A collective of great looks

80

T EC HNO Tech on the cheap – the lesser known brands making the right impression

46 50

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MORILEE 70 years and stronger than ever

88 GOING DUTCH Tres Chic's collections have something for all brides and every tastes 84

ALAN HANNAH TRINITY

Contents

STRICTLY L EGAL Shareholder disputes S HOW DAT ES 20 2 4

Morilee celebrate 70 years in business at Carnegie Hall

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 5

BRITISH BY DESIGN

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk | enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk

ENZOANI.COM

Ed’s Letter

I

know you’ve heard it a good few hundred of times already, but we’re adding our very best wishes to one and all for a happy, healthy and successful year ahead.

I think it is safe to say that 2024 promises to be a year of change, with differences that will impact positively on the way we do business. Retailers and suppliers alike are rethinking their strategy – buyers are considering how, where and when they will make their purchasing decisions, and who they are considering buying from, while brands are examining exhibiting options and, crucially, if the onecollection-a-year principle, common across Europe, is the way forward today here in the UK. Change is always challenging, and more often than not exciting if you have a clear picture of the outcome you are trying to achieve, and the direction you need to take to get you there. Over the past few months, more and more retailers have been telling us about their ideas – from revised opening hours to interior revamps to ramped up social media activity. The ups and downs and decidedly choppy waters of recent years, when for many things did not go according to plan, seem to have resulted in fresh thinking, a stronger sense of resolve and a determination to embrace a new way of working.

Without question, we can expect a brilliant next stage, which will move bridal to a new level. And it will see more of us working together and supporting each other – that’s exactly what will make tomorrow a success

Contact us Editor Susi Rogol susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Deputy Editor Jade Pepperell jade@meanttobemedia.com

Sales Manager Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com

Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com

@WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader

weddingtradermag.com

Trader WEDDING

EDITOR SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND Andy Allen Art Director “The latest men’s collections offer so many options, in colour, fabric and cut. I’m ready to shop!” (p72) Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding “Today’s bridesmaids are looking for dresses they can wear again. That’s important if they are paying.” (p38)

Cover image: Melody by Morilee is a sheer delight of details

Martha Cooke Head of Ad sales “It is fascinating to see what retailers are undertaking to develop their boutiques to cater to the wants of brides to be.” (p78)

Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 18 Taylors Lane, London SE26 6QL. Tel: 0785 558 7219 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com

Wedding Trader magazine is an online magazine read by the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is the trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish:

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 9

PENLIV.COM

TALKING POINT The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now

WOW! Ukraine house Yedna, showing at European Bridal Week in April will dazzle you. Every dress in its new Divine Allurement collection has its own design story to tell. www.yedyna.com

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 11

BARCELONA BRIDAL FASHION WEEK Says Event Director Albasari Caro of the forthcoming event: “BBFW 2024 will exude more fashion than ever. The event will once again become the global epicenter of trends and business, bringing together the entire bridal ecosystem in Barcelona, showcasing collections from major brands, haute couture houses, and emerging talents. BBFW will feature runway shows by some 30 designers and expects to host more than 360 brands, mostly international, in the trade show that will serve as the central hub for business and networking among the most prominent professionals, buyers, entrepreneurs, and operators in the sector.”

See show details on page 92-95

12 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

Justin Alexander forms strategic collaboration The Justin Alexander Group has announced its collaboration with Sanna Lindström, the respected German-Swedish bridal fashion and lifestyle label from Mönchengladbach. The cooperation, strengthened by a financial investment from CEO Justin Warshaw, will make him a shareholder alongside Sanna Lindström and Simon Gincberg.

Justin Alexander debuted on the bridal stage in 1946 as T&G Bridal in Brooklyn, New York. Over the decades, the company has grown into one of the leading international names in the industry, and has US headquarters in New Jersey and in Europe in Alblasserdam, Netherlands, with regional offices in London and Hong Kong. More than 2,200 authorised dealers worldwide carry one or more Justin Alexander collections, serving brides of all budgets and tastes.

Sanna Lindström was founded in 2017 and has achieved national recognition primarily through regular TV appearances in the successful Between Tüll & Tears on the national TV channel VOX and the founder’s bestselling book The Bride Whisperer.

Founded in 2017, the company employs around 80 people and its collections are available in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Belgium and Luxembourg.

There are also five flagship stores in Germany.

The partnership between the two will help the Justin Alexander Group to leverage Sanna Lindstrom’s local German expertise and gain insights into market-specific trends. This move underlines the Justin Alexander Group’s commitment to seizing opportunities in the German market.

DRIVEN BY DIFFERENCE Over the past ten years, European Bridal Week has evolved into the biggest international trade show in northern Europe, bringing together buyers and exceptional brands from around the world in Essen, Germany.

From 13 to 15 April 2024, this influential trade exposition, which was awarded the title of Best Bridal Fashion Exhibition 2023 in the Global Wedding Awards, will again be welcoming visitors from across the globe for a full three-day event across two halls at Messe Essen, celebrating the difference that comes with knowledge, understanding, and shared ambition.

“In times like these, it is essential to open your eyes to different perspectives and to approach new ways of innovation,” says Siegrid Hampsink, Event Director of European Bridal Week. “We are all experiencing change within the market, and as the organisers of European Bridal Week we are keen to embrace those. Difference can bring innovation and broaden our understanding of other values and circumstances and difference can lead to new perspectives and creative solutions in business. It also provides an opportunity to learn and grow from and with others in our field. Celebrating difference opens new doors, starts new chapters, and welcomes a new future for bridal and fashion That is what European Bridal Week is all about.” www.europeanbridalweek.com

SPENDS ON ENGAGEMENT RINGS Despite the cost of living proving to be a challenge for most, recent findings from Hatton Garden jewellers Queensmith indicate that couples haven’t necessarily decreased their spending on engagement rings – this year expected to be around £6,500, much the same as 2022.

With lab-grown diamonds becoming more prevalent, numerous couples are switching to these options and embracing larger carat weights and higher diamond quality without stretching their budget. Choosing gemstones rather than diamonds can also provide significant savings while offering rings with captivating colours.

Stones like sapphire, emerald, ruby, opal, and amethyst present wonderful alternatives that bring vibrancy and uniqueness to the ring.

Suggestions to pass on to your brides via your website, newsletters or socials.

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 13

SOPHIA TOLLI A U S T R A L I A

Introducing the stunning new collection from Sophia Tolli. For more information on becoming our next stockist, please get in touch. www.sophiatolli.com | denise@galaxyagency.co.uk

First Person

Laura Daly looks at the past, present and future as award-winning Bellissima Weddings reaches another anniversary

I

n June 2024, Bellissima Weddings will celebrate its 23rd birthday.

The more I reflect on that fact, the more mind-blowing it becomes to me.

Many of our current lovely brides were first introduced to Bellissima as mere babes in arms while we dressed their mothers. Somehow, we’ve become part of the town’s furniture – a business that has always been there and forged memories for so many families.

It’s most odd to think that some of our local brides have never known their town without our shop. Of

16 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

course, before that, there was a time when Bellissima was still very much only in my head.

I remember picking up the shop keys like it was yesterday; a process that was touch-and-go right up until the moment we signed the lease. Instead of starting from scratch, my husband, Michael and I had rather foolishly purchased a failing bridal business that we were certain we could turn around. We just thought we could give it a new name and we’d be up and running.

It wasn’t long before we discovered that the old owner had left us with unpaid and well-hidden debts and promptly left the country! So, the excitement, frustration, tears, and sheer force-of-will needed to get the doors open nearly finished us off before we’d even begun!

Then and now Bellissima Weddings has changed beyond recognition

Contrary to the advice I would give anyone these days, we very naively had no real business plan and no understanding of how the bridal world worked. We had no connections or friends in the industry and called upon my long-suffering and recently-retired dad to work full-time in order to try to bring my shop designs to life.

In 2001, the art of bridal retailing was sorely in need of a shake-up; fashion shops had moved on and offered so much more in terms of choice and service but, for some reason, many bridal shops, especially the smaller ones, seemed still to be stuck in the 80s. Although we had no retail or business experience, maybe this somehow worked in our favour as it meant we also had no preconceptions. We were limited only by our imaginations… oh, and budget!

So, with the supreme confidence of those who haven’t a clue other than a gut feeling and, as it turned out, an eye for a good frock, and much good luck, we were out of the blocks, heading for our first big test; our first visit to Harrogate. Unaware that we couldn’t just buy whatever we wanted and that labels had areas of exclusivity and minimums, we were starting to feel rather overwhelmed.

Virtually everything we inquired about was unavailable to us, and the panic was real! At this point in my story, I have to say that this is where a couple of planets realigned, and the next 23 years sort of all just fell into place. We managed to retain the labels we’d inherited, and every last person we dealt with from these companies helped and assisted us like family. Every industry agent, label, and designer we worked with became a great ally and helped us to achieve our dreams.

From a rocky start, we soon fell in love with our new chosen profession, thanks entirely to the people we met, and subsequently, of course, all the lovely brides we served. We sincerely couldn’t have achieved all that we have without the support that we have had in the past and, I must add, that we continue to enjoy today. When, for whatever reason, a label that we have stocked or a

fellow retailer has ceased to trade, we’ve been truly bereft, understanding just how hard it must have been to close a much-loved business. If you’re wondering where I’m going with all this - it seems to me that we find ourselves nowadays increasingly and, in many ways, quite suddenly, living in a world full of chat-bots, artificial intelligence, and virtual reality.

I suppose my 2024 message is simply that it’s people - and very much the relationships we have with them - who make the difference in our lives. You never know what’s going on in someone’s life, and it’s easy to underestimate the power of ‘yes’ instead of ‘no’ when faced with an issue or a proposition outside of your comfort zone. If you don’t make an effort to tune out all the petty squabbles between rival shops, or the worry that a competitor will steal your business, or will copy your ideas or poach your labels, then you miss out on the most important thing of all; the relationships we have with our fellow human beings.

In these past 23 years, there have been many wonderful souls from all parts of this industry with whom we’ve had the good fortune to meet and work. Some are still going strong; many have retired or moved on to other professions; and some, sadly, are no longer with us at all.

I’m truly thankful for them all and the influence they have had on our lives. All those collective hopes and dreams that I now feel beholden to continue for them all. Their wise words and sometimes slightly crazy viewpoints, now reflected in my own.

It’s actually the main reason that I continue to write these columns and continue working within the RBA. How can you be the recipient of so many sage words, acts of kindness, generosity of time, and not attempt to pass it all on to the next generation in the hope that somehow, somewhere, you too have helped make a difference?

Let’s all try to make a difference in 2024 WT A very happy new year to one and all!

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 17

Those all-important extras Offering wedding dress accessories alongside your fabulous gown collection is a fantastic way to enhance your business and cater to the dreams of every bride-to-be. Sue Lovell proves the point

F

rom veils and jewellery to headpieces and belts, accessories can add that perfect finishing touch to a bride’s special day, and add to your profit margin. We all need to make extra revenue where possible and accessories are a perfect way to do this, without a crazy initial investment.

To effectively sell wedding accessories, it’s crucial to not only display them beautifully, but also to inspire brides with ideas to complete the look they are going for, preferably whilst still in the dress, so they can see their vision come to life. It is an important moment for her, so maximise her experience with you.

Do not be afraid to ‘add on’ accessories to your appointment. Your bride is with you to buy her dress, but also she will appreciate you offering her advice on what veil to wear, and if she is removing her veil later in the day, she may want to still have something in her hair, especially for the first dance. I am often asked if it is okay to wear a headpiece and a veil, and I am definitely in the YES camp on that one, it’s a day to shine!

Everyone has their own style, either taught, learned or just a natural flow when it comes to selling add-ons. But it is always good to refresh and relook at how you display your accessories, and the most important part for me, is that the area is dust free, and displayed in a bright light.

Honesty matters – be truthful, if it doesn’t look good on a bride or doesn’t compliment the dress perfectly, then find something that does, or perhaps admit that nothing else is needed. Sometimes, less really is more; losing a sale, but better that than lose the trust.

18 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

INSPIRING VISUALS Curated collections: Arrange accessories in curated collections that complement your bridal gowns. For instance, create ‘Boho Chic’ or ‘Classic Elegance’ or ‘whimsical vibe’ collections, grouping together accessories that match the styles of your dresses. This not only helps brides envision a complete look, but also simplifies their shopping experience. It is all there, right in front of them, saving them hours of searching and scrolling when you have done the hard work for them.

All they have to do now is choose. It is good to also have a cheaper alternative range, similar styles, but more accessibly priced, so a bride knows she can still create her desired look, and not be limited by her budget.

Mannequins: Dress up mannequins with full bridal ensembles, the dress, veil and accessories. Seeing a coordinated look on a mannequin can inspire brides and make it easier for them to decide their own look.

Mirrors: Set up a dedicated mirror area with proper lighting where brides can try on dresses and accessories together. Provide a comfortable seating area for friends and family to join in on the experience. This allows brides to see how the accessories enhance their chosen gown, and discussions on hair styles and how to wear a veil and headpiece are all part of the dress shopping experience.

Be Thematic: Create themed displays that align with

the season, holidays, or popular wedding trends. For example, Valentines Month (let’s stretch it to the whole of February), displaying accessories surrounded by vibrant red petals and hearts is not only eye catching, it evokes an emotion associated with romance. In Spring, you can arrange accessories in floral, colourful settings.

Thematic displays capture attention and make accessories feel timely and relevant, and tug on the heart strings.

Behind the Counter Showcase Place a small showcase behind the counter with your most exquisite and high-end accessories. These premium items can be highlighted as special offerings, adding a touch of luxury to your store’s ambiance. A behind-the-glass purchase adds an element of an extra special item, and who doesn’t love that!

INSPIRING SALES Bundle discounts: Offer discounts for brides who purchase both a wedding dress and accessories from your store. Bundling encourages brides to complete their bridal look while saving money.

Gift cards / accessories credit: Provide brides with a credit or gift voucher towards accessories when they purchase a wedding dress or come back for alterations.

This credit can serve as an incentive to explore your accessory collection and remain loyal to your store.

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 19

A freebie: Include a complimentary accessory with the purchase of certain wedding dresses. For instance, offer a free veil up to a certain value, or a jewellery set when a bride selects a particular gown. This adds perceived value to the dress and encourages upselling, and who doesn’t love a freebie.

Accessories evening: Host special events or trunk shows dedicated to wedding dress accessories. During these events, offer exclusive discounts on accessories, and invite local bridal hairstylists to provide styling tips and consultations. This will also generate cross business relationships and referrals and get more Instagram tags and visibility for everyone involved.

Personalise package: Allow brides to customise their accessory packages. Offer discounts when brides choose multiple accessories, such as a veil, belt, and jewellery, from your store. Personalisation options can be a strong selling point.

Packaging properly: A luxury item needs appropriate packaging. Tissue paper and boxes plus carefully handled items add to the experience.

Refer a bride: Encourage brides to refer friends and 20 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

family to your store by offering referral bonuses. When a referred bride makes a purchase, both the referrer and the new bride can receive discounts or special offers on accessories.

Tiara of the month: Showcase a different accessory each month, in store and online, and offer a substantial discount on that item. This keeps your accessory collection fresh and entices brides to return regularly to your socials to see the latest offerings.

Limited time offers: Create a sense of urgency by introducing ‘Weekend Flash Sale: 20% Off Veils’ can prompt brides to make decisions quickly.

Keep up the chat: The conversation doesn’t have to stop when a bride leaves the store, encourage her to contact you via messenger/whatsApp with hairstyle inspo, so you can guide her to specific pieces you have.

Incorporating these display ideas and special deals into your bridal retail strategy can make selling wedding dress accessories a successful and profitable part of your business. By creating an inviting and inspiring shopping environment and offering deals that align with brides’

desires, you’ll not only enhance the bridal experience but also boost your accessory sales and customer loyalty. Remember, helping a bride complete her dream bridal look is a rewarding experience, that adds to the magic of her special day, and her trust in you.

A bride will trust us to know our stock, to deliver the style/theme she wants, and so helping her achieve the look she hopes for; we do this every day, so we all know what works, and what doesn’t.

It isn’t just about maximising profit, it is about delivering a service. What is so important is that a bride feels like a Bride – not a fast moving sale, in a production line wedding. We have all met brides who experienced the dress-veil-headpiece-petticoat-beltbag-and-box approach. That technique is for faceless stores, designed to ensure millionaire shareholders can stay on their golden yachts.

We have a more honest and thoughtful approach, we get to know our brides, and we invest our time and knowledge in them, because our bride’s matter. And that is the difference in coming to an independent store, we may not get a chauffeured drive home after the

long day at work, but we know that we give a personal service, because we really do see our customers as people – not just commission targets or spreadsheet figures.

Add-ons that are required are a valuable addition to both client and retailer, telling a bride she needs a pointless and expensive two-ring hoop for a fishtail dress is cynical and highlights that you are all about the profit rather than a happy customer. Brides can see through that, and we are all in a position of trust, so abusing that trust with false information and irrelevant purchases will quickly see your reputation diminished.

Independent bridal shops offer the very best in personal attention, but I sometimes think we are afraid to actually ask for the sale, or maximise a sale. We really shouldn’t be. After all, the bride has come to us, because we know what we are doing, and she trusts us to guide her. There is a huge difference between selling to (pressure selling), and providing her with what she actually wants and needs, and that is what will always set us apart – we provide a service, an experience, WT and we aren’t just in it to please the shareholders.

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 21

www.casablancabridal.com

FOLLOW US @casablancabridal

l a i r e t a M e g i a r r a M MADE WITH

Peter Grimes Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

A LETTER FROM AMERICA

As we emerge from what has been a difficult year, there is optimism for 2024, says Peter Grimes, who discusses the findings in VOWS recent survey

T

he year 2023 might have been a tough one for US boutiques, yet according to very early preliminary survey results of VOWS magazine readers, over 70% of responders hold a positive outlook for the future, a optimism that may reflect an anticipated increase in brides in 2024 over 2023, but also may be the result of successfully, if only moderately, overcoming the many challenges they cited in their survey responses.

We asked 24 questions in a short email survey sent in mid-December to over 4,500 boutiques on our opt-in list.

We requested that readers rank VOWS magazine, and to provide details about their boutiques and approaches to choosing a vendor, buying preferences, and in-store operations.

We closed the survey asking this: “In 2023, what has been your biggest challenge?,” and with a followup question of “In 2023, what has been your greatest triumph?”

The last question asked: “What is your outlook for the future?”. Less than 1% responded Negative, 22% responded Uncertain, and 74% responded Positive.

(Three respondents selected Other, with comments indicating their outlook depends on the economy and “whether we as an industry can beat the factories at the online game we are losing right now.”)

Of the challenges commented on by boutiques, not surprisingly, almost 50% dealt with the bride and her shopping behaviour, whether it was struggling with lower store traffic, or decreases in appointments, or last-minute cancellations, or lower budgets, or her indecisiveness and inability to commit.

A common challenge cited was this: “Brides having a difficult time to commit to the dress they love. FOMO.

24 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

Thinking they have so much time, and wanting to go to five to ten stores… or more!”

Other was: “Keeping brides from shopping online. And having them recognise the quality of service our shop is able to provide in person.”

And: “Brides waiting until the very last minute to purchase. There needs to be a stronger message put out by the brands informing the brides to not play around in bridal boutiques and to not wait until the very last minute to purchase.”

And this: “Brides are too into their phones!”

Other challenges faced by retailers These were understandable and a bit expected as VOWS has been writing about these topics based on feedback from subscribers throughout the year: – Staffing, a distant second in responses to those listing challenges about the bride, but significant numbers regardless. These included near frustration at the difficulties of finding, hiring, training, and the increasing costs of paying for stylists.

– Increased competition from new stores entering their marketplaces, and losing sales to online direct to consumer competitors.

One respondent summed up their biggest challenge, echoed by others, by this comment: “Competition with internet vendors. We are losing significant market share to online vendors. Gen Z are tech natives. They are not as apprehensive about purchasing online. They will waste our time on dresses to get ideas and have the shopping experience with their friends, knowing that they plan to buy cheaper online. There has not been a paradigm shift for brides to see this as being unethical.”

And: “Converting lookers into purchasers. Amazon

gowns have us in a chokehold.”

Additional challenges listed by respondents included with having the right merchandise, with controlling increasing costs, and with creating advertising and marketing campaigns that have a measurable impact by driving store traffic… revealed in these comments: “Trying to manage all the demands of owning your own business.”

“Keeping our expenses down so we can increase our profit margins.”

“Appointment acquisition costs.”

On a positive note There were triumphs for US boutiques in 2023… many that seem like the flip side of challenges, the success at overcoming issues. Over 25% of respondents indicated that staffing was a triumph, with comments such as: “Creating a sales team that is solid!”

“Finally figuring out our hiring process.”

“Making the touch decisions that ultimately were right for our business even if it meant skeleton crewing our staff.”

“We are smarter in purchasing and moving inventory.”

Others listed successfully remodelling their boutiques, opening a second location, reaching an anniversary milestone, achieving strong sales growth in the Mothers of the Wedding, men’s formal wear, Prom and homecoming niches, and tighter control over buying and merchandising, with comments such as: “Being able to up our average price point.”

“Adding a great private line.”

“We completed some remodelling of the store and have finally gotten a loyal staff.”

“Finding a new line that I love and getting rid of one that was no longer performing.”

“Understanding what the market was going to look like for the year and steering the ship in a way that got us through maintaining similar numbers to last year.”

Scrolling through the responses and comments about their greatest triumphs in 2023, I was struck by the undertone of optimism, and by their descriptions of grateful survival from a very difficult year – a gratitude for overcoming obstacles but also for the moments of joy received from staff and bride.

One boutique summed it up nicely: “We survived each and every crucible and shall we say Amor Fati, we have lived and learned and are going to kick ass in 2024!”

WT

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 25

I BE A WINNER Picking up a recognised award – a title and the trophy that goes with it – can give your business, and your team a tremendous boost. Ellie Sanderson, multi award-winner herself, explains the value 26 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

t’s that time of year where we reflect on the year gone by and begin to focus on the year ahead.

I find what always helps motivate and focus me is entering business-led awards.

There are a multitude of benefits that totally extend beyond the potential and rather obvious winning a prize. Participation is so important and inspiring for so many new entrepreneurs and established businesses alike.

I am a regular applicant of a wide range of business awards. Some within bridal and some in general business. I am also lucky enough to judge many different bridal industry

awards, and frankly I just love it. I get to meet wonderful new retailers, be inspired by others, share ideas and more. Here are my top five reasons to consider that might just make you reach for the laptop and apply for some of the awards around at the moment.

1. Entering awards without question focuses your mind on your achievements to date, you are forced to analyse your success and failure.

It makes you really dig deep and you can honestly get lost for hours checking why you think you deserve to win. It’s a learning experience worth putting yourself through. It

can be stressful but it is enormously rewarding when you complete your entry.

2. In addition, entering business competitions provides a platform for exposure to a wider audience, this includes other industry experts, suppliers old and potentially new, exposure to other like-minded retailers, and it offers a real springboard for future business and personal growth.

3. There are also many networking opportunities during the awards events, allowing you to connect with influential professionals, mentors, and like-minded entrepreneurs, building valuable relationships that can be instrumental in your future endeavours. Celebrating success is simply the best tonic ever.

4. Entering awards also adds a level of credibility to your brand within the industry. Taking part in competitions serves as a powerful validation of your business and your strategy. It enhances you personally in the eyes of stakeholders. There is also recognition from esteemed judges and industry experts that can act as a stamp of approval, instilling confidence in your future goals.

5. The competitive nature of these events encourages participants to push their boundaries. There is often

constructive feedback from judges which provides valuable insights, allowing participants to refine their business strategies.

Beyond these key points there is also the self improvement side of entering competitions. Sometimes you will be presenting ideas, or writing your ideas to an audience you don’t know. These are often new skills to most of us. It’s also insightful gaining constructive feedback and positive endorsements, which in turn give you confidence to grow and connect with new customers.

Finally, awards enhance your brand value by elevating your name within the industry but also the general public. In conclusion, entering competitive business awards is a strategic move for entrepreneurs to propel their business forward.

Make the leap today and start watching the awards you want to enter next season – the Bridal Buyer awards, and The Wedding Industry awards along with small business awards in your county.

WT Good luck! https://awards.bridalbuyer.com/ bridal-buyer-awards-2024 https://www.the-wedding-industryawards.co.uk

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 27

w w w. c a s a b l a n c a b r i d a l . c o m

How many trade shows is enough?

Going buying? Is it a case of the more the merrier when it comes to attending events? Sue Lovell gets thinking

M

y September visit to Harrogate proved to be another whirlwind experience, just like in previous years, and previous trade shows. I tend to hit the shows hard, and stay focused on who I know, and what I like.

I have a ‘drive buy’ approach – I am in and out, and I am stealth like, hardly noticed! (Unless you were unfortunate enough to have been there after I had a glass of Champagne, on the Jupon stand in London: I can’t claim to have been invisible that afternoon and I am still making my apologies.) I should have a sign around my neck, like they have in the Zoo: “please do not supply this animal with fizz”.

Anyway, as I strolled through the beautiful exhibition halls of Harrogate, completely under the influence of water and orange juice this time, I couldn’t help but wonder if I am missing out on the unique dynamics of attending multiple trade shows?

Especially as Harrogate will now be

twice a year, I shouldn’t limit myself to just one or two shows, or one country even.

The world of trade shows has its own set of pros and cons, which become especially pronounced when you’re in the business of buying and showcasing designer wedding attire and accessories. By limiting myself to

“You may have access to exclusive previews and ‘special’ deals, but remember, so do your competitors”

Sue Lovell Owner of Susan Nicholas Opulent Bridal, Cambridgeshire

which is exactly what our customers will be doing. You know the quality of a gown when you can physically touch it. You can see the alterations required, and how time and labour intensive they will be if you can really just Harrogate or London, am I limiting look closely at a gown.

If you’re looking to curate a diverse my options? I know both Harrogate and Excel like the back of my hand, so and captivating collection for your bridal boutique, trade shows offer an have I become complacent? unmatched opportunity to explore a One of the most significant multitude of styles, designers, and advantages of attending multiple trends – and you can sense the stands trade shows is the sheer variety of options at your fingertips. When I say that have the ‘buzz’ of excitement around them, you can literally feel it ‘fingertips’, I really do mean it – you in the air. can touch and feel the products,

30 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

Obviously, trade shows serve as platforms for designers and manufacturers to unveil their latest creations, but this means you can get a sneak peek at upcoming bridal fashion trends and maybe secure exclusive deals for your store. Being among the first to introduce these new designs to your clientele can set your boutique apart from the competition. Perhaps by attending the same shows every year, and the same venue, I am only seeing the back of my hand, so am I just tracing my welltrodden path – and not really seeing all there is on display?

Attending multiple trade shows allows you to build and nurture relationships with designers, wholesalers, and fellow boutique owners. Each event will attract a different demographic, and these connections can be invaluable in securing favourable terms, negotiating deals, and giving you a confidence in a supplier, even opening your eyes to different ways of displaying products, and learning new

sales techniques.

And on that note, trade shows often feature seminars, workshops, and panel discussions where industry experts share their insights and expertise. These sessions can provide valuable knowledge on topics such as customer trends, marketing strategies, and sustainable practices.

Staying informed and continuously improving your business acumen is essential in the ever-evolving world of bridal fashion.

We are never too old or too fabulous to learn more; we grow because we are willing to listen and learn. By attending multiple trade shows, you can stay ahead of the curve when it comes to trends and market demands. Bridal fashion evolves rapidly, and having your finger on the pulse can help you anticipate what brides will be looking for in the coming seasons.

This foresight can translate into increased sales and customer satisfaction. We are not considered a FMG (fast moving goods) industry, but

even so, our trends do evolve quickly, and discontinued dresses have to make way for the new styles.

It is The Circle of Trade. Elton John may have not written a successful song on it yet, but the circle of trade is very important to us all. We have to evolve and grow and keep the new collections rolling into our stores; we need to keep fresh. If not, the rails would be full of puffball sleeves and – oh, wait…. you see, that proves my point – it is a circle.

Tradeshows bring together a multitude of designers and suppliers under one roof, streamlining the buying process. Instead of travelling to various showrooms or hosting individual suppliers in your store, or even worse, buying from digital images, you can efficiently compare and select products on-site, in real time. It keeps you focused on what you already have, helping to ensure you don’t double up on too many of the same styles, or overlook one. If we are in unfamiliar location, I think we take more notice of what is around us,

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 31

we start to actually see more.

However, the vast array of choice is undoubtedly a pro, but it can also be a double-edged sword. Navigating through countless wedding dresses, accessories, and vendors can be overwhelming. It’s easy to get lost in the sea of options, making it challenging to form the right decisions. Without careful planning and a clear focus, you might end up feeling more confused than inspired.

Also, attending multiple trade shows can be costly. Between travel expenses, accommodation, and the actual inventory purchases, your budget can quickly deplete. It’s crucial to strike a balance between exploring new opportunities and managing your financial resources wisely.

Overspending at trade shows can negatively impact your overall profitability, and I am sure that there are not many among us who haven’t second guessed ourselves on the way home from an event, when you realise your shop isn’t the size of Wembley stadium, nor your budget the size of a footballer’s transfer fee.

While trade shows can be efficient in some respects, they also demand a significant amount of your time.

Preparing for the shows, travelling,

attending seminars, and engaging in networking events and after show cocktails can take you away from your boutique for an extended period.

Balancing your presence at trade shows with the day-to-day operations of your store can be challenging, especially those of us who have smaller shops, which may need to close whilst we are away. And it isn’t just time away from the store, but also from family and homelife. That isn’t a bad thing, if you plan it right – you can get some much-needed down time whilst away, but it does take planning, and the right people to be with you to make it a fun time rather than just work. It can also be inspirational and fire up the excitement once more, as even the best of us flag at some point in our career.

You may have access to exclusive previews and deals, but so do your competitors. Trade shows are magnets for other bridal boutique owners seeking the same advantages. This heightened competition can lead to making misguided purchases, wanting to bag exclusivity, not for your own benefit, but to stop someone else having access to a label, and can give a false sense of urgency to secure the most

32 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

coveted pieces.

Attending trade shows back-toback can be physically and mentally taxing. The excitement can wane, and fatigue can set in, impacting your ability to make sound decisions and fully engage with the opportunities presented.

Maintaining your energy and enthusiasm throughout multiple shows requires resilience and selfcare. It is not for the faint hearted, it requires dedication and commitment.

We do have the advantage that our trade shows are fun, vibrant and exciting. In a former life I attended a three-day show in Harrogate called The Green Keepers Expo. I watched grass grow. It is hard to maintain any level of enthusiam on grass, no matter how much you are paid.

So in my experience, visiting multiple trade shows is often a mixed bag. It offers a treasure trove of choices, exclusive previews, networking opportunities, and a chance to stay ahead in the bridal fashion industry. However, it also poses challenges related to overwhelming choices, budget constraints, time demands. competition, quality control, logistics, and the potential for fatigue.

To make the most of these trade shows, meticulous planning, financial discipline, and a clear strategy are essential. You must strike a balance between exploring new opportunities, maintaining existing ones, and managing the demands of your bridal boutique effectively.

Ultimately, visiting multiple trade shows can be rewarding for those in the business of bridal fashion, provided you approach it with a wellthought-out game plan and a keen eye for opportunities, and you don’t go alone. Be open to meeting up with other owners. Even as competitors, we can still be friends and support each other.

Or you could be like me, laser focused and budget conscious one minute, then...“Ooh. We could all go to the Barcelona show for Maria’s WT birthday – that will be fun,

www.elbethgillis.com

LET’S TALK ABOUT REFUNDS

am yet to receive a response.

One should question why the bride in the story mentioned that she kept looking for a wedding dress after she had apparently fallen in love with one so much she parted with £1,000. It could have been family or friends pressurising her to buy it, she may have said yes too soon with questions hanging in the air or, indeed, didn’t really love it that much. Or, she may have been pressurised by her family and friends to look elsewhere – we’ve all seen it before, haven’t we.

It isn’t always black and white and on occasion you may choose to refund a customer based on their was recently reading on the Daily I’ve found on Martin Lewis’ Money individual circumstances. However, Mail UK website, and shared Saving Expert website about refunds this could create a precedent for with you on social media, a from a customer’s perspective. It other brides to try for refunds as question that a bride had posed said: well. As I always say, it’s a delicate to a lawyer – she had stated that You DON’T have a legal right to balancing act. she had changed her mind about a change your mind and return storeThe decision should be up to you. wedding dress she had left a deposit bought goods. Even if you’ve bought And legally that is the correct way to on. I thought it might be interesting the wrong colour or size, stores don’t deal with these issues. You should to write a little about selling goods legally have to refund you simply not feel pressurised into giving a and when giving refunds, what your because you’ve changed your mind. refund because you are worried responsibilities are.

(It’s different if items are faulty.) about fall out – the dreaded negative The bride in question had found Well, that’s food for thought isn’t it! online review. 99.99% another dress a few days of the time, these are later in another shop and “Have the bride sign and date your not about issues with now wanted a refund paperwork and ask them to read the bridal retailers, but of the deposit she had most important details and pay special rather the customers. already left in the original Having said that, shop. It was £1,000 – not attention to certain key points.”

I have a client who a small amount. tells me that back The Trading Standards in the day they would never refund UK page plucked from the web is Referring to the Daily Mail UK article, anything, often ending up in court. intended as a guide only but should I emailed the lawyer in question Today, however, they always give make the situation a little clearer. as someone who has, like many a refund simply to close the door It would be useful to compare the of us, worked for decades in the on what was a horrible experience, wording in your Ts & Cs with the bridal industry, and who have seen saying that it wasn’t worth the guidance given on that website (see variations on this theme day in, day aggravation to drag it out. Give them footnote on opposite page). out. I explained a little about the what they want, deal with it and And here is an interesting snippet industry and how it works generally; I

Should you give refunds? Are you morally obliged to give them? Under what circumstances do you have to give them legally? Helena Cotter goes into the need-to-knows

I

34 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

move on. As always, do what you feel is best for you, your team, your business and your customers on a case-by-case basis.

Wearing different hats We all know how much bridal retailers bend over backwards to ensure everything is as perfect as can be for brides and their entourages.

In instances where you have to draw back and put your professional hat on in terms of not giving refunds – or anything else actually – the bride will automatically assume the people in that business are unfriendly, uncaring and unflexible.

That will then be dotted all over their social media accounts and of course, form part of a review. You know, the: “They were nice until they got my money” comments.

Which is why, I do drone on about getting the balance 100% right between being too friendly at one end of the scale and unapproachable at the other when you are working with your customers prior to and during their appointments. Plus, being too friendly makes it very easy for customers to say no to you!

If you haven’t got the balance right and are too friendly, they can walk all over you – particularly if things go wrong. Being too accommodating and over delivering is a recipe for problems down the line. Particularly when business is tough, customers can smell desperation.

When selling, it is of paramount importance you are completely confident that you and your bride are on the same page throughout the appointment stages.

Trying to close the sale too early can result in disappointment – and refunds. Monday morning buyer’s remorse scenarios. Close too late and you have missed the golden opportunity of selling that dress – and the bride choosing to buy it from you. Missed sales, bad timing and not knowing how to close a sale make up around over half of appointments! Timing is everything.

Ts & Cs Remember when your bride is getting down to the paperwork and payment side of things, they can be on such a high about their dress that the reality they are about to commit goes out the window. They may not pay attention to you, not listen to you. Therefore, check your terms and conditions are completely up to date with current laws, using the websites listed under Where to look as a guide.

Have the bride sign and date your paperwork and ask them to read the most important details, saying, for instance: “Sarah, I just need you to read our terms and conditions, please pay special attention to numbers 3, 5, 8 and 10”.

Point out the ones which are commonly overlooked on your order paperwork; alterations cost extra (they’ll always say they were not told about it even though you’ve mentioned it several times during their appointment). Dresses are ordered in a standard size (unless specifically changed by the bride/ you), deposits are non-refundable in any circumstances (unless you, as previously mentioned, decide to in this customer’s instance further down the road), balance of payment

is due by XX/when your dress arrives in store and you have XX days to pay and collect your dress(es)/ accessories”.

Damage limitation is a good thing, therefore preparation is the key.

Making everything as watertight as possible can help protect you in law.

It will also help you and your team sell with confidence.

Amongst my many talents, I am not a legal eagle. All the information I have given you in this article should be used as a guide. When it comes down to the law of the land, you must ensure that you discuss the in’s and out’s with a solicitor.

In fact, I would advise you asking your solicitors to give your Ts and Cs a once over to ensure you are compliant with UK law – and if you are outside the UK, to do your due diligence also in your home country.

Bridal Retail is one heck of a fantastic industry. You all work so hard in your respective jobs to make sure your customers are happy.

It is only fair that you protect yourselves and always, always prepare well for your bridal appointments. Only when everything is synchronised can you continue to be successful.

Good luck!

Where to look – Accepting returns and giving refunds: the law - GOV.UK (gov.uk) – www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/ experts/article-12800329/DEANDUNHAM-force-wedding-dress-shopreturn-non-refundable-deposit – Consumer rights & protection: get money back - MSE (moneysavingexpert.com)

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 35

PETA’S PLACE

Minds maid up pink works. Otherwise, there are plenty of beautiful soft pastel shades.

A-line is still a popular easier-to-wear shape. Plus, the multi-way dress is still around. Pink shades work whatever the destination, from beach to stately home and a satin style can transition perfectly for day-to-night weddings.

Apparently old-school rules regarding who pays for bridesmaids’ dresses have gone out the window, but if the bride can afford to treat her entourage then she should.

Black is back I know black used to be a no no, but thanks to so many celeb weddings Go Green now featuring bridesmaids dressed Shades of green seem to be the in black, it’s so on trend – Selena new blue this season. Pastel green Gomez looked amazing at her is soft and quite flattering for most friend’s wedding recently. (FYI, I have skin tones. Emerald has skyrocketed a massive crush on her, one of my in popularity and I am not surprised favourite TV shows is Only Murders in – it’s elegant, subtle, eye-catching, the Building which she stars in along effortlessly chic and gorgeous. Greens with Steve Martin and Martin Shaw. If are the perfect choice for weddings you haven’t seen it, watch it.) that take place outdoors: in a field, Black is perfect for the antithe woods, a sprawling garden or bridesmaid, too, but for the private grounds. Country and festival superstitious BM or one who has a weddings are made for green lovers, fear of offending, there is always a smoky grey... Let’s face it, though, Print everyone should have an LBD – black etailers who sell How nice to see a bit of print. dresses unify all shapes and sizes bridesmaids dresses are Blooming marvellous, I say, whether easily, they work perfectly for an the bravest of the brave. it’s a case of all-out for a country vibe evening wedding, a city wedding and How do you manage a or a city wedding, it’s nice to see lush any stately home celebration. group of people who don’t want botanical designs that seem really to wear the bride’s chosen colour, romantic. Inspirational blossoms on Fabrics and silhouettes style and length of dress, and bridesmaid dresses make for a look There are a lot of tight fitting dresses convince them to at least try them that’s re-wearable... a fashion staple, around right now (at least in satin, on, knowing that they will look so to speak. If there’s a large group of there’s often a little bit of stretch) and fabulous. Well done bridesmaids BM’s, print and plain, mix and match plenty of high leg splits. As a contrast, stockists, for all your help, really work well; as long as it is all it’s so nice to still see chiffon and tulle patience and sense of humour. tonal, this allows the group to be – yes, I am an old romantic – and for You definitely deserve an award for individuals. a more low key event, crêpe is perfect sheer tolerance.

If the BMs are buying their own for structured styles. dresses and accessories, as well I’m also loving that there are Pink Power more sleeves around because not This is the eternal BM colour but there as paying for their hair and makeup appointments and transportation to everybody can, or wants to be, a are so many shades to choose from, strapless semi-naked maid bouncing from soft muted to full-on shouty pink. the wedding, it is important that the chosen dresses can tick both style around on the dance floor later on in For the Maid of Honour or just the and financial boxes. the evening. friend who wants to stand out, bright

Peta Hunt on the key forthcoming trends in bridesmaid dresses - the styles, the colours, the possibilities

R

36 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 37

NICOLE MILANO

NICOLE MILANO

ELIZA & NATHAN

TH & TH

REWRITTEN

GHOST

MAIDS TO MEASURE

VERA WANG

ROMANTICA

CYNTHIA & SAHAR

LINZI JAY

RICHARD DESIGNS

MON CHERI

BY MALINA

ALFRED SUNG

HOUSE OF CB

The jumpsuit is still going strong.

It is still an unconventional look for a bridesmaid, but gives freedom of movement for dancing. Bows and ties – on the shoulders, round the arms, waist or tie back – are still in favour.

The off-the-shoulders and naked shoulder trend is alive and kicking, with lingerie-inspired straps giving the illusion of almost being strapless.

V-necks are important, too, especially with floaty flattering cape sleeves.

And it’s also nice to see both soft draping and high neck options. There are plenty of the more traditional strapless bodice designs coming

38 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

SOCIAL BRIDESMAIDS

JENNY YOO

HOUSE OF CB

DESSY

Vera Wang said of her new bridesmaids for Pronovias collection: “I want women to express themselves with their own look and authenticity – every woman is unique. Cut and proportion all help make women look beautiful and feel comfortable.

I always consider movement and comfort in my designs because if you feel good, you look amazing. And that gives you confidence.”

I have also seen an upturn in one shouldered dresses, which normally isn’t an easy style to wear, but this selection are all nicely cut, and that makes the difference.

through, which always add an extra touch of glamour. I like to see corset tops on dresses – I do love structure, it helps to keep you in place!

As for post-wedding wear, the little black dress never goes out of fashion. Most of these dresses shown here look great as they are or can be shortened to create a summer party dress, which in my mind halves the price. With the trend for threeday mini festival weddings coming on strong, a BM’s dress from one wedding can certainly be worn again as a pre wedding dinner dress for WT another occasion.

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 39

RICHARD DESIGNS

REWRITTEN

VERA WNG

TANIA OLSEN

LQ DESIGNS

BARI JAY

LINZI JAY

NICOLE MILANO

HOUSE OF CB

MORILEE

JENNY YOO

ALLURE

40 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

VERA WANG

TH & TH

RICHARD DESIGNS

WATTERS

ALLURE

MON CHERI

MON CHERI

DESSY

MONTAGE

LARK BRIDAL LTD. dessy@larkbridal.com or +353 (0)90 649 4698 www.dessy.co.uk

REASONS TO CELEBRATE

HARROGATE FASHION WEEK As HFW enters its sixth year, this fast-growing exhibition success story has taken over from many of the previously established market-leaders, pulling in big-name exhibitors and a huge audience of buyers. We talked Wendy Adams about the concept

42 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

Your first show – when was that?

It was in July 2018, and in its natural place, Harrogate.

Who owns the business?

Sarah Moody and I are equal partners, with Stephen Dixon as a small share holder.

What was the vision behind it?

Fashion Week used to be one of the largest events in Harrogate back in the 80s and we felt it was the right time to bring the fashion industry back to its ‘home’ especially as other trade events in the sector were seemingly losing their grip and failing.

So who were you planning to compete with right from the start?

There were three events in particular we wanted to challenge – Moda, Indx and Pure.

Did you feel those exhibitions were missing something – after all, they are well known names in the trade arena?

Nothing can stand still. What we considered was lacking that would keep events at the forefront of their marketplace was good organisational and management skills, which carried over to the sales team. Both Sarah and I had years of experience in trade events and a lot of contacts between us.

AFTER

How many exhibitors joined you at the first show, and which key names?

We launched with 80 brands, including MOB labels like Lizabella, Coco Doll, Cassandra, Gabriela Sanchez, James Lakeland, James Steward and Ella Boo. And how many are you expecting at the next event, in February?

More than double – at least 180.

Which merchandise categories does HFW cover?

All types of womanwear clothing from coats and jackets to dresses and separates. Our accessories including hats, jewellery and footwear. And of particular interest to bridalwear retailers is that we offer the largest number of MOB collections anywhere in the UK What size audience do you attract at each event?

Our HFW shows are seasonal – this year 4-6 February and 4-6 August – and each attracts in excess of 2,000 visitors from all over the UK and Ireland.

Are most of your exhibitors UK brands?

No, we have a high number of European brands, some of which come to us direct, others through their UK agents.

How do you get your message to those overseas labels and get them to join your impressive roster of names?

We work with IHKIB to bring in Turkish brands and are

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 43

currently in talks with the Danish Embassy to expand our range of Danish exhibitors. However, as mentioned, we work with a big network of UK agents who represent labels from many countries.

How do you promote the show?

We advertise in Boutique and Attire with press releases going in both Wedding Trader and Bridal Buyer. We have a large database of over 5,000 shops and we target them with printed invites and a Preview Guide, as well as running extensive direct email campaigns.

How many days is each event, and what times?

We take three days to set up and the show is open for three days, always Sunday to Tuesday. We open at 9.60am each day and close at 6pm on the first two days and 4pm on the last. With our long experience in the exhibition arena, we know exactly what times have the greatest appeal to our visitors.

Is there a spill-over of exhibitors into locals hotels as there is with bridal?

No, the show is 100% in the Harrogate Convention Centre.

Where do you go from here – can you see running the show in London at some point?

We think the show works really well in Harrogate – both exhibitors and buyers love the atmosphere and the after hours networking. We have no plans to launch another show, but plan to continue to grow Harrogate and encompass more brands which will bring in more buyers Top names at next event?

We now have many regulars, including Alice Collins, Carla Ruiz, Deck by Decollage, Dolcezza, Dressed Up by Veromia, Envy Jewellery, Elisa Cavaletti, FeeG, Foil, Godske Group, Lizabella, The Niche Collection,

44 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

Pomodoro, Rino & Pelle, Smith & Soul, Tinta, Villagallo.

New brands include Able Conde, Accessories by Park Lane, Bari Jay, Brax, Closet London, Enrico, Eve of Paradise, Grenouille, Holbrook, Lazy Dogz, Lysse, Marie Mero, Max and Ellie, Maloka, Mon Cheri Occasions, Noble Wilde, Pont Neuf, RedGreen, Richard Designs, Scusi, See Saw, Wear Colour and many more.

Occasionwear/MOB collections include Bari Jay, Coco Doll, John Charles, Gabriela Sanchez, Irresistable by Veromia, Lizabella, Luit Civit, Mon Cheri Occasions, Richard Designs and Veromia, with many accessory companies showing complimentary shoes, hats and bags. These include Failsworth, J Bees, Lotus, Perfect Occasions, Snoxell, and Victoria Charles.

Our 180 brands offer everything you need all under one roof.

What are the special show features retailers can look forward to?

We have our Gin Bar with free drinks at Happy Hour each day, and a drinks party for everyone to join Sunday at the close of the show.

Do you arrange accommodation, travel, etc for visiting retailers?

We have special hotel rates organised through our agents Reservation Highway – details on our website.

What would you say is the biggest achievement thus far for HFW? The fast growth we have seen from the first show, having to cancel two shows during the pandemic and then managing to build it up to a bigger event with many more buyers attending. It’s great to see happy faces from WT exhibitors and buyers – they all love Harrogate. www.harrogatefashionweek.com

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 45

THE EXPERTS Answered key questions about ways to run a better then you are business

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MORILEE! Morilee waa founded by Evlynn Udell and her brother Morvin Leibowitz in the 1950s. Later, with her husband Arthur and son Mitchell on board, the company grew from a small family business in the heart of New York’s garment district, to a global bridal brand. Peta Hunt goes back in time

W

ith a network of 2,500 boutiques around the world and a long history of success stories, Morilee is one impressive brand.

Terri Eagle, President and CEO at Morilee says that much is due to the creative force, Madeline Gardner. “As the principal designer for over 38 years, New York based Madeline has played a significant role in shaping Morilee’s aesthetic and global success. Her talent and original thinking have gained her recognition for her exquisite designs, impeccable attention to fit, and the care she places in meeting the needs of brides around the

46 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

world.” Madeline’s designs are best known for their intricate detailing, luxurious fabrications, and flattering silhouettes, catering to a wide range of brides’ preferences and body types. Her new collection, aptly named The Platinum Collection, celebrates this 70th anniversary year and embodies the brand’s USP of timeless elegance.

“Reaching our 70th year is a testament to our unwavering commitment to excellence, our breath-taking designs, and unparalleled customer experience,” says Terri “We are incredibly proud of our heritage and the impact we have made on the bridal and special occasionwear industry. Our

THE EXPERTS Answered key questions about ways to run a better then you are business

success is a result of our talented team, the support of our boutiques and trust and support of our valued customers.”

To mark this milestone, the Foundation Board of Directors of New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) appointed Madeline Gardner, to its 28-member board. As well as her board appointment, a Madeline Gardner Scholarship has been designated. This $30,000 scholarship, spanning three years at $10,000 annually, will support one student each year in the Fashion Design

programme in the School of Art and Design.

Looking back Thinking of iconic brides and their dresses that had really set the trends, I asked Madeline to sum up each era, in half a dozen words, whilst I waffled on!

Interestingly with a few tweaks and styling updates, these classic gowns could be walking down an aisle anytime now.

1950s 1950 s

1960s 1960 s

1970s 1970 s

Full organza gowns

Full organza gowns with lots of details

Empire waist

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 47

1980s 1980 s

1990s 1990 s

All about puffy sleeves, Basque waistlines and ballgown silhouettes.

The key styles strapless necklines and the iconic slip dress

1950s Post the Second World War and with the world returning to happier and more stable times, weddings were starting to become a more of a fashion affair, women were starting to look to movie stars and royalty and high fashion designers for inspiration, wanting to re- create their dream wedding dress. The days of mend-and-make-do were on the way out.

The go-to silhouette of the decade had to be a dress with a flattering neckline combined with a small corseted waist and a full skirt.

Wedding gowns were structured, and MoriLee nailed the look with its own collections.

The 50s’ looks that are still influencing B2Bs today are those that made headlines. In 1950, 18-year-old Elizabeth Taylor wed Conrad Hilton, her first hubby (she must be a retailer’s dream, eight times wed!). Her dress, with a 15yard satin train, was a gift from MGM studios, created by chief costume designer, Helen Rose. MGM had 15 people working full time on it for three months. I bet they dreaded gifting her next one!! FYI in 2013, it sold for over £121,000!

In 1953, Jacqueline Bouvier married John F Kennedy. Her gown was created by New York designer Ann Lowe, one of the first African-American women in high fashion.

48 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

Then, in 1956, Grace Kelly wed Prince Ranier of Monaco, in the dress that is cited as one of the most elegant and best-remembered bridal gowns of all time, designed by Helen Rose again, and also gifted by MGM to Grace.

Madeline says: “full organza gowns” 1960 For me, the 60s were full of contrast from the formality of Norman Hartnell’s gown for Princess Margaret, and Pierre Balmain’s dress for movie star Audrey Hepburn, to the start a fashion revolution, led by new It Girls like Mia Farrow and Lulu, celebrity brides like Priscilla Presley and Yoko Ono. There were long dresses, trouser suits and mini skirts, and man-made fabrics ruled. How did MoriLee pick up the baton?

Madeline G: With full organza gowns with lots of detail.

1970 Bring back these dresses I love them! Looking through archives, Princess Anne – her gown was by Maureen Baker – and Princess Caroline of Monaco, dressed by Dior, were our adored traditionalists, but for me it was Bianca Jagger, wearing that YSL jacket and skirt that is the classic. Alana Hamilton and Farah Fawcett who married Rod Stewart and Lee Majors respectively, both wore floaty dresses and

inspiration from the US and from the UK? Of course, it had to be the wedding of decade, people in a frenzy, so much publicity, a huge applause goes to Victoria Adams and David Beckham. The big stately home bash was born.

Madeline The 90s key styles strapless necklines and the iconic slip dress 2000s A new millennium and a touch of red made a statement!

And I remember it well – a micro trend of huge red wedding dresses that my assistant and I could never get back into the boxes when we were trying to transport them to shoot, not mention hours of steaming those huge skirts.

(Never iron the pick up skirts, always steam.) People used to ask why we never took these on location, they would need a separate van to travel in. Coloured dresses for the bold fashion- forward started to appear. Remember Gwen Stefani in that pink dress? It was featured in the V&A Wedding Dress Exhibition.

Madeline’s view of the 00s: “Pick up skirts and belts/trim in bold accent colours”.

2000s 2000 s All about puffy sleeves, Basque waistlines and ballgown silhouettes. hippy weddings started to waft into our psyche.

Madeline on the 70s? Empire waist.

1980 I confess that I really did not like Princess Diana’s dress. As a result, anything with a whiff of Royal Wedding 1981 has me burying my head under a pillow.

Puffed shoulders were the story. When Arnold Schwarzenegger married Maria Shriver she did puffy shoulders. Bruce Willis and Demi Moore – again puffy shoulders. And we did love a lace headband around the forehead - what was that about? In 1985, the whole Morilee bridal collection was 12 pieces! Amazing how it grew.

Madeline: The 80s was all about puffy sleeves, Basque waistlines and ballgown silhouettes.

1990 Puff shoulders and shoulder pads still ruled but with celeb weddings being featured everywhere. Remember when you had to wait for bridal magazines, or Hello and OK to come out to get the latest hot couple? We welcomed the rise of the strapless dress, corset tops, and slinky dresses had arrived, thank you Whitney Houston and Bobby Brown, Cindy Crawford and Rande Gerber, Courteney Cox and David Arquette;

2010 Well for me Kate Moss’s wedding to Jamie Hince had to be the biggest influence of the 2010s. We couldn’t move for Boho inspired events – boho became the buzz word for the I-don’t-want-to-be-the-same-as-anyone- else, antimeringue bride. Brides wanted to be different, spotting their favourite new looks online, crafting the wedding favours, marrying in barns , the new venue. And weddings abroad became easy because you could pack your wedding dress in a suitcase. Free spirits meant pampas prass everywhere. Festival weddings had arrived.

Madeline‘s take on the 10s: ‘from crochet style laces, to bell sleeves - all things boho”.

2020s So, how do brides today differ from the past?

Says Madeline: “Brides today are so educated and informed on what is happening in fashion, including bridal, so their choices of gowns have evolved in a very special way. There is such diversity in the gown selection with an emphasis on choosing a look that expresses their personality and coordinates with the full wedding theme. In past years, I designed gowns that were more traditionally tied to specific times and trends. Now, gowns are designed with the bride at the forefront, offering many options that range from classic to contemporary to forward fashion.

20s modern minimalism followed by a return to more traditional and opulent glamour To celebrates their anniversary MoriLee had their show in New York during Bridal Week, showing at Carnegie Hall it reminding me of that famous saying .

WT “How do you get to Carnegie Hall?” answer “Practice,

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 49

TRÈS CHIC

GOING DUTCH From humble beginnings in the sixties in Hengevelde, The Netherlands, Marinus Kuipers’s Très Chic has flourished to become one of the key names in bridal in northern Europe

O

riginally established as a small design house offering local brides affordable wedding dresses, Très Chic went on to meet the needs and demands of a broad fashion-led audience, and

50 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

it did so in its first decade. By 1972 it was boasting a good-sized custom-built facility and employed more than 150 people, serving retailers and their brides across Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Sweden, and Norway.

Exhibiting at European Bridal Week in April and Bridal Week Harrogate in September, today’s multiplecollection portfolio means that whatever a bride’s taste, style of wedding, or budget, there is a special collection for her to choose from.

This is a family owned and run business - now in its third generation – that has very precise ideas about

BRINKMAN

its position in the market and the direction it travels. Every detail, every question, and every response matter to the customer service team who see helping their retailers as a priority.

And that means the company is focused on delivering a bride’s dream by making modifications when asked.

And late orders are never a problem there is always stock availability of the best-selling styles in each collection.

Getting the message over to the

MISS EMILY

brides is another vital part of the Très Chic personality. Every single day, the company’s marketing team reaches thousands of brides around the world with news and fashion views, and every retail partner is featured on the multi-language website where we direct potential brides to discover their closest store.

Sounds good? It’s even better when you meet the labels in the Très Chic collection of collections.

Made to Love Classic styles and affordable designs are just the beginning of what this collection has to offer - it really does live up to its name. Romantic and traditional with all the details and embellishments that make a dress a dream dress.

Jessie K This feminine collection combines beautifully designed detail and

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 51

MADE TO LOVE 2024

gorgeous fabrics, with a touch of colour. A-line silhouettes are a particular feature.

Miss Emily Cool and contemporary with real high-fashion features, this is a range for brides with curves, designed specifically to play up plus points with real style.

Très Chic From A-lines to ballgowns, these wedding dresses combine classic features with fashion-forward touches for a fresh take on tradition.

are key to the design inspiration.

Brinkman Magnificent fabrics are the choice here, used to create relaxed and dramatic elegance, fashioned in silhouettes that flatter – and get noticed.

Pure by Très Chic Trend-forward wedding dresses that info@treschicbridalwear.com introduce a sophisticated dimension.

Opulent fabrics and magnificent details www.TresChicBridalWear.com

52 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

WT

Create a Collection to Call Your Own WHOLESALE SILVER JEWELLERY

We are a leading wholesaler of quality, non-branded sterling silver jewellery selling exclusively to the trade.

Curate your perfect wedding collection with us.

Vis cmeje it us at welle to vie ry.com wo exten sive r ur ange qualit of y jew welle ry

0116 283 2240

cmejewellery.com

MATERIAL MATTERS There are some names in the fabrics and accessories business that stand out and stand proud. Heathcoat is one of them. We talked to Gemma Groves about the business and its special features Let’s have a bit of background first please. Heathcoat was founded in Tiverton by John Heathcoat in 1816, as a bobbinet manufacturer. The lace-making machinery he invented – previously lace had been made by hand – was the very first of its type and consisted of a warp beam, lace take up roller and two brass-bobbins. The fabric produced formed a hexagonal mesh which has long been used for high-quality bridalwear and lingerie.

What has been and is, your key focus? We concentrate

54 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

on quality and sustainability. Our focus is to offer the best.

While our core focus is technical textiles, as the originator of mechanised bobbinet lace, we have been producing fine English tulle and dress nets over the decades and are regarded as market leaders in this sector.

Sustainability i a much talked about feature today. Is it relevant in your ranges? Our Succession collection, designed to meet the needs of bridal, dance, and fashion customers, is made from 100% recycled nylon and

polyester yarn. The recycled polyester is made from recycled plastic bottles; the recycled nylon is slightly different, created from industrial nylon waste produced during the manufacturing process that would have otherwise been downcycled, downgraded or discarded.

As Nylon is a petroleum-based material, and producing it has a high cost in energy and greenhouse gases, Heathcoat Succession Collection offers options that lessen our dependence on virgin petroleum as a raw material. The good thing is that they don’t differ from the conventional fabrics. Visually, and from the touch, you would be hard pressed to tell the difference. Therefore, you are not losing anything from opting to use these textiles that are made from yarn made from recycled sources.

Is that the field for which you are best known now?

Heathcoat is a multi-faceted company today. Market leaders in technical textiles but also still known worldwide for manufacturing premium quality dress net and fine English tulle.

We are known for leading the way technically, and a part of that is abiding by the strict regulations that are in place. One area we have worked extremely hard on is our Zero formaldehyde finish. When you set a net to width, you apply a finish to fix the width in place.

Previously, formaldehyde would have been used. In the textile industry formaldehyde has been used as a resin, to prevent wrinkles and creasing and as a stiffener. So why

have we chosen not to use it? Firstly, formaldehyde is a highly toxic chemical. We follow the REACH standards; this addresses the production and use of chemical substances and their potential impact on both human health and the environment.

Whilst a small amount is permitted, we took the decision to not use this at all. We have meticulously spent time developing an equivalent finish, that offers the same handle and ensuring our premium quality is still maintained. This is better for the environment as well as human and animal health.

Do you develop all your specialist products in house?

Yes, all our fabrics are made in Tiverton, Devon, on our 77,000m² site (19 acres). We manufacture 750k meters of fabric per month.

How big is your development team? In our warp knitting team, I work alongside our two development engineers, Sam and Amy, supported by George our technical manager and Richard the Technical team’s director.

Developments are something that can often take time because we ensure that we have everything in place from the correct yarn.

By visiting shows and bridal customers, I get to understand what brides and brands and designers are looking for. In 2024 I will be visiting the bridal shows in Barcelona, Germany, and the UK as well as textile shows like Premier Vision. This ensures I’m up to date with trends

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 55

and new requirements in the bridal industry.

Tell us some of the things that are recognised as exclusive to Heathcoat? We have been producing fine quality fabrics since 1808. We made the tulle for the royal wedding for the late Queen Elizabeth II. We are the originator of mechanised bobbinet lace, so have been in the market for 215 years. We now work with modern stateof-the-art knitting machines that can produce 85 meters an hour.

How many products do you have today in the fashion fabrics arena? Today we have nine tulles and dress nets made from recycled yarns (The Succession Collection), eight stock-supported dress nets and tulles with stock on the shelf ready to ship, six new printed tulles - The Devon Collection, and numerous opportunities to create bespoke options.

We are currently developing a silk tulle and adding power mesh to our collection. We also offer linings that are often used in under skirts and petticoats.

56 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

Are they produced in house? Yes, all the fabrics we are proud to say are made in Tiverton, Devon, England.

How often do you introduce new lines? We try to add new lines every six months or so. Our focus recently has been on the recycled options for our Succession collection. We hope, if all goes well, our Premium Silk option will be ready to launch in the Spring and we are considering expanding our printed offering. Glitter flocked and Power Mesh are also on the horizon.

Who are your main customers - are they fabric houses that sell to designers, retailers, or what? As a manufacturer, we generally work with volume customers like manufacturers and wholesalers.

For smaller volumes, we have many suppliers that we can recommend who stock our fabrics around the world.

We do work with many types of customers whether they are startups or high-end designers.

Customers often come to us as they know of our reputation. And we often support fashion students who later in their careers come back to us as they know that we

can help work with them to find the right option.

What is the minimum order in metres? Whilst we prefer to recommend smaller customers to the wholesalers we work with, sometimes they don’t stock what the customer is looking for so we are happy to accommodate those orders by the bale or roll.

We have some great worldwide stockist that we can always refer customer to, but for start-ups and designers I’m always happy to work directly to help them find what’s right for them.

Where do you show the collection? Currently at the London Textile Fair for our UK customers. We occasionally host Pop up showrooms and I mostly travel to visit customers at their ateliers, studios, or factories.

Do you work directly with designers who tell you what they want? Yes, we do. We often have bespoke requests, especially for shades. MOQ [minimum order quanity] does apply but often if this means the perfect match, most are happy to meet that requirement.

We have many archive fabrics, meaning that if it’s not in

our current range we can look to whether it is in our realm of capabilities. We like to work as a research hub to keep moving forwards.

Colour – is that big in your sector of the fabric industry?

The classic shades are still by far the most popular, Silk White and Ivory. I have seen a small demand for more pastel shades, and certainly glitter flocked is requested on a regular basis.

What do you feel the next big fabric trend will be?

Natural fibres are important due to their biodegradable factor. We are adding in silk and will continue to look for yarns that are fine enough to knit with and consider their end of life and the impact on the environment.

Often veils are treated as keepsakes, however, the market for second hand bridal apparel is growing so best quality fabrics that are long lasting will extend the life of the garment.

Alternatively, more disposable options should be able to WT be fully recycled or biodegradable. www.heathcoat.co.uk J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 57

ROYAL GROUP

Tiffanys Wholesale Portfolio When you find bridal, maids and prom together under one roof, you may discover that those ranges work perfectly together, making buying decisions that much easier.

Tiffanys Wholesale is definitely worth investigating, starting with the Prom range

T

iffanys Prom was the first collection from this house, launched more than 20 years ago, back in 2011.

And it was designed with a very specific vision... to satisfy the needs and wants - but more than that the dreams - of teenagers aged around 15 and 16, attending their school prom; choice was a vital ingredient in the mix.

58 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

From the start, the collection catered to styles, colours and details that this particular group found most appealing and inevitably, so did their older sisters, hence the cross-over today into other sectors, including red carpet events, balls, gala celebrations, celebrity parties and many other occasions. And with a size range that goes from 0–28 and a vast colour choice in every style, it is unsurprising that Tiffany has captured its own position in the market. Prices go from middle market to top end, so over the 20 piece-collection there is so much to choose from.

The collection is designed by a team here in the UK in collaboration with the brand’s production/ manufacturing team, but much of the design direction is the result of the findings of the focus group that are carried out throughout the year. Consumer opinion inspires and shapes Tiffany Prom going forward.

We asked the company’s Nicola Conduit about the

DARLA

AELLA

features for the forthcoming season.

“We are seeing prom girls leaning towards styles made from our luxurious silk satin, which has that added shine,” she says. “Stretch jersey with a sparkle fleck within the fabric is

also proving popular. Tulle is another one that is a real winner – it creates a dreamy and ethereal look, especially when layered over skirts and adding volume to ballgowns for a look that is softer and more whimsical.”

When it comes to prom and occasionwear, colour is an important feature. Lilac, sage and pink are unquestionably the trending colours for 2024, but as always the consistent best sellers are emerald, royal and red.

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 59

BRONTE and AGGIE

ROYAL GROUP

BELLATRIX and PIPSY

Tiffany sources its fabrics from an international fabric market, so the design team are always dealing with the newest of the new.

And the latest collection includes some embellished fabrics, too, with self-coloured embroideries, 3D flowers, and hot-pressed stones.

“We closely follow the latest looks and styles showcased on fashion runways around the world,” says

Nicola. “This helps us incorporate current fashion elements into our prom collection, ensuring our designs are bang on-trend. We also draw inspiration from the glamorous styles of the past.

“Vintage fashion, with its timeless elegance and intricate details, often influences our prom collection. We strive to create a diverse range of styles to cater to different tastes and

60 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

preferences, ensuring that every customer can find their perfect prom dress, whether their taste is for big ballgowns with ruffles and waterfall skirts, softer fishtail styles, classic A-lines, or straight fitted gowns.

“What we are seeing is a continued demand for fitted satin dresses with high splits that have been a highlight of the past couple of seasons, and alongside that a move towards bigger

DIOR, AURA, XANTHE

fuller ballgowns and dresses with a corset style back, ideally with an illusion bodice.”

With some 80 boutiques across the UK selling its prom collection, Tiffany grants large areas of exclusivity and does not allow online selling. “It is vital to us,” says Nicola,” that our stockists have confidence that they can implement a one-style-perschool policy.”

Another strong selling point for this house is that it is launching an online ordering portal for its boutiques early this year. Nicola explains: “This will allow them to place orders and check all available stock for immediate delivery. The portal will also provide them with an asset bank which will allow them to download videos and images of all collections and the social media that we create

on Instagram, TikTok and Facebook throughout the year for them to use on their chosen platforms. This will be a valuable tool for many of our boutiques.”

Find out more about Tiffany Wholesale’s prom, bridesmaids and bridal collections at: tiffanys-online. co.uk / 02380 334 322 / info@tiffanys-online.co.uk

WT

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 61

AMANI ROMANTICA OF DEVON

IN CONVERSATION

Romantica of Devon James Waddington has lots to share. Not only his latest collections but also details of his forthcoming plan, which will move the business to a whole new level

A

fter over 40 years in the bridal industry and observing the way in which bridal buying and selling seasons are evolving, we recognise that there is one main wedding season – namely the summer. With this in mind, we decided that for clarity, and ease for all of our retailers and brides, one

62 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

main bridal selling season makes complete sense.

There are so many different trade show options available to retailers today and we want to offer one main launch event at which stockists can purchase our collection. That way, we believe that we will be able to better serve the needs of the market.

With most brides being advised to shop for their gowns 6-12 months before their wedding due to the selection process, manufacturing time and leaving a gap for alterations, we believe – working backwards – that the new gowns should be hitting stores at the end of summer.

PB261 PURE BRIDAL

ordering portal, where our retailers will be able to view live stock levels and even place their own orders.

Many of our retailer enquiries are at the weekend, so we’re striving to make as much information available as possible, at times most convenient to them.

Reaching out The new customer ordering portal is just one very exciting element of our JW230905 wider digital transformation strategy.

JENNIFER WREN We have many plans in the pipeline to further drive traffic to our retailers, with new team members – opening our own distribution hub in appointed across social, email and On show editorial. Watch this space!! We will Germany and employing many new As such, we are launching our agents on the continent – we believe also ensure that social content is collections in March/April at all of readily available throughout the year the time is right to align our 2025 the main UK and European trade as we recognise that fresh imagery is collection launches with the rest of fairs, the first one being Harrogate required all the time.

Europe.

Bridal Week in March.

Aside from our Bridal collection, Additionally, committing to the We will not be the only ones our Promwear, Communion and lower number of styles over the structuring our launches in this Bridesmaids collections will continue course of the year means that we way – many European wholesalers to launch once a year between can hold higher levels of stock already only release one collection March and June as they have done going forward, which will work in each year. Having spent the past 12 months investing heavily in Europe combination with our new customer for a number of years now.

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 63

KNOW THE COLLECTIONS Romantica is for the modern and yet traditional bride. Our timeless collection of bridal gowns exhibits a broad selection of silhouettes that embody timeless elegance, simplicity and charm.

Each gown is designed to capture the essence of both our heritage and enduring allure, making it the perfect choice for brides that appreciate the beauty of tradition.

Delicate laces, sumptuous satins and statement Mikados complete the heart of the collection, whilst delicate chiffons and effortless tulles complete the range.

Pure is a contemporary and effortless collection of lightweight and destination gowns. Ideal for an informal wedding locally or a trip to the sun, the brand prides itself on its comfort and effortless nature. Whether barefoot on a beach or dancing in the bright city lights, Pure is an affordable and reliable alternative for the adventure seekers.

Lightweight fabrics and flowing silhouettes embody the spirit of the brand whilst aiding a curation that makes you feel both radiant and feminine, no matter the location.

Jennifer Wren is a collection of contemporary gowns that prides itself in its striking silhouettes and modern fabrics. Aimed at the more discerning bride, Jennifer Wren is a brand that strives to celebrate the female form whilst observing the luxury of clean lines, playful silhouettes and simplicity. Jennifer Wren promises to provide an extensive selection of chic and timeless styles and unwavering commitment to quality.

2024 sees the integration of Silhouette into our main Romantica and Jennifer Wren collections.

All Romantica styles will come in either 6-24 or 18-36 curve. We’re of the opinion that all of our designs, with the correct support, are suitable for every bride. Our aim is to ensure that our gowns are always fit inclusive, meaning everyone, regardless of their shape or size, can wear the dress of their dreams!

To enquire about taking on any of our brands and becoming a part of our journey, please do get in touch with me on james@romanticaofdevon.co.uk – I would be thrilled to connect and see if WT there is anything we can do to help!

64 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

GLENNIS ROMANTICA OF DEVON

BRENNA ROMANTICA OF DEVON

PB253 PURE BRIDAL

JW230906 JENNIFER WREN

JW230907 JENNIFER WREN

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 65

W I LV O R S T 66 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

TRENDS IN GROOMSWEAR 2024 Looking ahead, despite recent ups and downs, the men’s formalwear market is looking good with twists on the classics leading the way. Jill Eckersely talks to two top names

T

W I LV O R S T C L A S S I C S

he past few years have been an uncertain time for the British economy and of course the wedding industry is part of that. We have had to adjust to the reality of Brexit and its inevitable effects on trade between Britain and the EU. Then along came the pandemic, when weddings were restricted to just five people at the heart of the lockdowns. And then there was the cost-of-living crisis with so many families struggling to make ends meet. Perhaps not the best time for the wedding industry… but then, as many in the trade pointed out, people still wanted to get married, and to make their special day just that – special!

Now, in 2024, Andy Roberts, agent for German menswear brand Wilvorst, is very much looking forward to a successful year ahead.

“In spite of all the terrible things going on in the world, constant sad news in the media, and of course the cost-of-living crisis, we have found bookings for 2024 to be very positive,” he says. “We need a bit of British grit so that we don’t worry too much about outside factors.

Life still has to go on and no-one is going to be allowed to spoil the big day for couples getting married in the coming year!”

Andy is very much aware of the differences between the British and European groomswear markets.

“I would say that our British market is unique,” he says.

“Britain is one of the very few countries where hiring suits is as popular as buying. Most European grooms buy a special suit for their wedding, just as a bride buys her special gown. These suit styles can range from a Nehru jacket in a bold fabric design to styles with a jetted pocket and an edging on the lapel. They can look stunning but are sadly not as marketable in Britain.”

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 67

W I LV O R S T

The biggest change in the British market over the past few years, it seems, is that more and more grooms are buying their own suits, with the rest of the party – best man, parents and ushers – hiring theirs. More and more grooms are insisting on a special made-to-order suit which makes them stand out from the rest of the party.

This can mean a suit with a subtle or a bold check, or perhaps a fancy lining which includes monogramming on the inside of the jacket with the names of the bride and groom and the date of the wedding.

“We are not seeing grooms planning to upstage the bride, heaven forbid,” says Andy. “Of course this should never ever happen. However, quite rightly, a groom will want to stand out on his big day!”

A quick glance at the many Wilvorst ranges will confirm Andy’s views. They have a whole section of ‘individual’ styles where a groom can choose not only his own suit fabric and lining but everything else, right down 68 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

to the buttons. Even palm-tree patterned fabrics and Bermuda shorts are available in the range. But there is still real demand for more traditional styles and colours, as Andy explains.

“We are finding that dinner suit weddings are still very popular,” he says. “Mostly single-breasted suits with a peak lapel, with black and navy being the most popular colours. Some have a little surface interest too, possibly a textured brocade, and there is growing interest in the option of beautiful bright velvet jacket.

“Another winner for Wilvorst is our plain singlebreasted suit, two button with a subtle ticket pocket, peak lapel style in a luxurious pure wool flannel fabric.

It comes in brown, silver grey, and denim blue as well as the most popular shades which are sand and sage green.

Sage green is our Number One, and it looks stunning!

The trend for many more weddings taking place outside a traditional church has meant that suits have

STEPHEN BISHOP

overtaken tail coats in popularity in recent years. Having said that, since the pandemic I have seen a traditional wedding party opting for a navy three-piece tail cost, or even more classic, our plain black tail coat and striped trousers with a grey or buff double-breasted waistcoat. So classy!”

Stephen Bishop from Stephen Bishop Suiting of Woking has also recently seen a trend towards more formal groomswear.

“My clients do seem to be going for a more formal look,” he says. “For a while tweed has been a trend but I always feel this is rather hot for a summer wedding and this preference does seem to be waning now. I am selling more made-to-measure suits for the groom, and then sorting out suits to hire for the groomsmen to complement the total look. Funky linings are more popular than ever, one of our recent creations was a lining with a peacock feather design.

STEPHEN BISHOP

“Of course the Internet has a huge influence on modern choices in groomswear but all orders are steered by the bride’s vibe and the bridesmaids’ choices of colours. And there are differences in other countries – in the UK we find the groom and groomsmen creating a co-ordinated group look, whereas Europe tends to see the groom and groomsmen each purchasing a unique suit, creating a group with individual looks. And the USA sees tuxes as being the thing, as ever!

“Without question, world events like the pandemic and all the lockdowns shook clients’ confidence for a time.

The cost-of-living crisis has had an impact, but only by delaying couples’ plans.

“Many who hadn’t committed to their wedding venues and so on, or made all their decisions, just pushed their plans back to 2024, with the result that 2024 looks like breaking all records and it will be defying all the WT cost-of-living pressures, for sure!”

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 69

A VISION REALISED

TDR BRIDAL BIRMINGHAM Something to celebrate, in every sense of the word. Through sheer dedication, TDR Bridal Birmingham has grown from its small beginnings into a big, impressive retail operation in which every element has been carefully and skillfully planned

I

n September 2007, TDR Bridal Birmingham was inaugurated within premises that had previously served as a photocopying shop. Transforming the empty space into an intimate bridal boutique with a single changing room marked the modest beginnings of a business that, over the ensuing years, experienced rapid growth, and the need for expansion.

A subsequent refurbishment added two more changing rooms and introduced a dedicated team of staff, several of whom continue to collaborate with TDR Director Rebecca Baddley to this day. At the time,

BEFORE 70 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

however, and drawing upon her early entrepreneurial experience, Rebecca recognised the potential waiting to be realised, but also that the limitations of the space would ultimately slow down the business development process.

In 2018, an opportunity arose for Rebecca to acquire ownership of the TDR premises from the landlord, and she made the skilfully wrought bold decision to refinance her home to secure a mortgage to raise funds for the purchase of the shop.

In 2019, after 11 years of flourishing trade, the business

underwent a significant metamorphosis. This expansion facilitated the inclusion of three additional bridal suites and the relocation of the Menswear shop, streamlining day-to-day operations for enhanced manageability.

Then, the unforeseen challenge of the COVID-19 pandemic unfolded in the UK. While a testing period in every sense, it provided Rebecca with an opportunity to refocus on marketing and branding efforts that had previously been deferred due to time constraints.

This concentrated marketing strategy propelled TDR’s success exponentially. Post-COVID lockdowns, the sales of wedding dresses surged from 561 units in 2020 to an impressive 962 in 2021. The upward trajectory continued, with 1418 wedding dress units sold in 2022. Notably, all alterations were conducted in-house, ensuring comprehensive care for brides until they collected their dresses for the big day.

Another stage Recognising the limitations imposed by the existing space, negotiations for the acquisition of the adjacent derelict building commenced. It took a protracted and frustrating 19-month period, but on 24 May 2023 the purchase was completed and the renovation process started.

Astonishingly, Rececca and her team completing the total refurbishment in just under 11 weeks, an experience that was both exhausting and exhilarating, marking a significant milestone for the entire team.

The new TDR A dedicated Fitting Suite was established, increasing the capacity for bridal alterations from one to five changing rooms. The Menswear store was fully relocated, and the entire storage facility, previously off-site, had a new home in the adjacent premises. Additionally, the Prep department, responsible for steaming, pressing, and packing dresses, seamlessly transitioned into the new space.

The former menswear department was transformed into the ‘Celebration Suite,’ bringing TDR’s total suites to seven for new bride appointments. This expansion further bolstered sales, culminating in an impressive 1536 units for the year 2023.

Rebecca is immensely proud – and understandably so – of her achievements, and attributes the success to the unwavering support and dedication of her team, emphasizing that none of it would have been possible without their commitment to the TDR brand and its ethos. Despite the challenges faced in 2023, Rebecca remains steadfast in her values of honesty, transparency, and integrity, pledging to continue thriving while actively contributing to the betterment of other bridal retailers in what can often be a challenging and isolating industry.

Inspired thinking TDR Bridal has consistently embraced a commitment to providing free VIP appointments for all brides, a hallmark of their customer-centric approach. The dedicated Celebration Suite is reserved for brides who

AFTER J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 71

have chosen TDR for their bridal needs, and serves as a perfect setting for Instagram-worthy moments for both the bride and her entourage.

Drawing inspiration from the sophisticated aesthetics of Peggy Porschen London and EL&N Café London, the Celebration Suite radiates a romantic and feminine ambiance where guests are enveloped in a harmonious blend of soft hues and tasteful decor, adhering to TDR’s signature colour scheme of pink; the incorporation of this prettiest of palettes amplifies the brand’s own personality.

In addition to its aesthetic appeal, the Celebration Suite features a stylish appointed bar, where brides and their guests can relax and be pampered with an assortment of expertly crafted cocktails, freshly ground coffee, a choice of teas, and creamy hot chocolate that delights the senses.

Crucially, all these indulgences within the Celebration Suite are complimentary, reflecting TDR’s unwavering dedication to enhancing the bridal journey.

Meticulous design, luxurious offerings, and a commitment to complimentary services stands as a testament to TDR Bridal’s continuous pursuit of excellence in the realm of bridal couture.

Helping others in the industry Rebecca reflects with gratitude on the remarkable journey she has undertaken in the bridal industry, recognising the invaluable role played by her exceptional and supportive suppliers. These mentors have not only shared their expertise but have been a

72 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

beacon of encouragement during challenging times.

The unwavering support of her husband, Lawson, and her family has been the bedrock of her success, and she acknowledges that without them, none of her accomplishments would have been possible.

Drawing from her own experiences, Rebecca has extended her passion for support and mentorship to other bridal retailers through the creation of her groundbreaking training app, Wedding Wakeup.

This innovative platform serves as a safe haven for fellow industry professionals to seek guidance without fear of judgment or inadequacy. Rebecca emphasizes the importance of cultivating a nurturing environment where questions can be asked freely, fostering a sense of community among bridal retailers. She understands that everyone embarks on their journey from different starting points and believes in the power of mutual assistance.

For Rebecca, the joy derived from aiding and uplifting others transcends mere enjoyment; it is a deeply ingrained belief in the significance of collective growth for the entire UK bridal industry. Her commitment to sharing knowledge, providing support, and creating a space for learning underscores her dedication to the advancement and strength of the industry as a whole.

Through Wedding Wakeup, Rebecca continues to inspire and empower bridal retailers, reinforcing the idea that success is not only about individual achievements but also the collaborative work of the entire community. www.weddingwakeup.com

WT

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 73

And For The Year Ahead...

Apart from getting more exercise, laying off sugary drinks and giving up subtitled Netflix series, we asked retailers who are regular contrbutors for their business resolutions for 2024 “In 2024 I Shall Be Re-Connecting To My Inner Voice, As I Feel That Since Covid, I’ve Been SecondGuessing Myself Too Much, And I Intend This Year To Tune Out The Negatives And Go Full Steam Ahead.”

Laura Daly, Bellissima Weddings

“Build More Creativity Within The Boutique, A More Sustainable Environment Listen And Learn More, Improve Skill And Social Media, Encourage Employees To Gain Further Goals In Their Working Schedule, Learn To Delegate More, Stay Focused.”

Rob And Andrew, Creatiques 74 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

“For Me Like Many Others, It’s To Focus On The Changing Social Media Platforms – As Our Brides Change How They Use Their Socials, We Need To Make Sure We Go Where They Are Looking.

Stock Holdings Need To Be Tighter And Lighter For Many Of Us, With More Focus On A Cleaner Line And Faster Turn Over, And Turning Older Stock Into Cash.

To Look After Ourselves, And Make Sure We Have Our Businesses Working For Us, And Not Vice Versa.

Customer Service, Customer Focused, But Remembering Why We Do This, Too. Sue Lovell, Susan Nicholls Opulent Bride, Snob

“2024 Will Be A Year Where We Continue To Re-Invest In The Business To Ensure We Are Evolving And Are Able To Give Our Brides The Best Experience Possible!”

Tegan & Roberta, Silk And Maple

“Start Charging More For Appointments, Alterations And Anything Else And Stop Worrying About Whether Or Not The Brides Will Pay. Remember, We’re Worth It.” Maria Musgrove, Pantiles Bride WT

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 75

BRIDESPEAK

Accessories: at what point does a bride start thinking about those little extras that we know can make a big difference? And is she getting the finishing touches messages through social media, or from her chosen boutique “I think it is very nice that dress shops offer free veils and things once you order the dress itself, but quite honestly I would be must happier if they offered a discount on the dress itself. That would allow me to go online and choose from the huge range of those extras, from tiaras to combs to capes to veils, all of which I could return if I didn’t like them. Also the chain stores are worth looking at - their prices are so Peter Grimes much less than bridal shops.”

Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS Gerry

“I am a big social media user and look everything up - including all things wedding-related, and especially wedding dress designers. I don’t understand why companies that are showing dresses and giving information on everything from the material to the cut to the detail, don’t add on their suggestions about the sort of veil and headdress that would work best with each look.

That’s something all us B2Bs would appreciate, and give us something to go into a bridal shop armed with.”

Marsha

“I have been really worried about having a problem with any elaborate headdress – like what if it falls off, makes me itchy, etc. I know this is all silly and pre-wedding nerves, but I can’t help the way I feel, and I am also embarrassed to mention it to a profession sales person whose business it is to coordinate my look. That said, Maria, the sales consultant at a local bridal store, made me feel so much more positive and when I told her my fears, she immediately came up with others suggestions, like combs and clips and had me trying them on and jumping up and down and walzing around. She also suggested I see a nearby hairdresser who does a lot of weddings and between them I am so relaxed about my accessories.”

Sam

“I told the sales lady that I would be wearing trainers on my big day, even though I wanted a formal dress. She was great, made me sure I had made the right decision, and she suggested brands I should consider even though she didn’t sell them. She got some pix up on her tablet to show me.

When it came to veils she just knew what would work on me and also how to ring changes when the dancing started.”

Lara Jo

76 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

“The first two shops I had appointments with absolutely didn’t show me accessories or make suggestions. One said, in fact, that once I decided on my dress and placed an order then I could make a separate appointment to see about suitable veils, headdresses, etc.

That meant that I really had no idea what my finished look could be or should be, so I ruled that boutique out. The second one did not have any display area and the shoes they gave me to try with the dress for heel height were a bit grubby. In the third shop I went to without a prearranged appointment was a completely different story.

The sales lady asked me questions about the wedding plans, the style of wedding, even timings for the evening. She made me feel really comfortable and talked me through the headress styles that would work best with the dress that was my favourite. She gave me so much confidence and that shop is going to get my business – for the dress and the extras.”

Joanna

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 77

Tech on the cheap Equipping a business with IT can be seriously expensive, especially if you buy the sort of gear that technology journalists love. After all, if you were looking for a delivery van you wouldn’t buy a Ferrari just because Jeremy Clarkson raves over them. Words of wisdom from Chris

N

owadays, you can get all the performance you need from your IT kit by looking at budget models or less prestigious brands.

Recently, advances in chip technology and better production systems mean that second-tier manufacturers are now able to offer stylish, high-quality products while the big names struggle to keep ahead of the game.

The trend is most visible in smartphones and tablets. For a couple of decades the clear market leaders have been Apple and Samsung. For many people, indeed, if it isn’t an iPhone then it isn’t a phone they would be prepared to be seen using in public.

The figures would back them up – Apple and Samsung flagship phones were more powerful, had bigger screens, better cameras and looked lovelier than any of the competition.

No wonder people were prepared to pay extra for them (and, in the case of Apple, a lot extra).

But the technology is now trickling down to less well-known brands, mainly those from China that offer phones that are almost as good for just a fraction of the price.

quid. The Xiaomi Pad 6 costs just £360. It is beautifully styled, has a bright display and a decent camera.

Operation is fast and fluid. So far, pretty much up there with the iPad. So where are the compromises?

The processor, a Snapdragon 870, is from the last generation so not nearly SMARTPHONE as powerful as Apple’s, but it does Just about every day, analysts announce another “iPhone killer” but the job at a much lower price. The screen is LCD rather than the swanky they never seem to wound iPhone OLED but you would be hard put to sales, let alone shoot it in the head.

But many offer iPhone alternatives tell. It runs Android 13.

The rear camera is only 13MP, with almost the same power at a but who takes photos with a tablet fraction of the price.

Take the Vivo X90 Pro, which sells anyway? Perfectly good for scanning documents and stuff. The forward sim-free on Amazon at just £660, which makes the iPhone 15 Pro look a facing camera, positioned on the long edge for video conferencing bit pricey at a grand. without side-eye, is also well up to The Vivo X90 Pro is based on the the job. latest Mediatek chipset, has a big Xiaomi has also dispensed with screen and runs Android 13. But its crown jewel is a very superior camera most of the fripperies. No mobile featuring a massive sensor from Sony data capability so if you want to work in a café via 5G you are out of luck. and optics by Zeiss. It has a massive No flash card slot so you will either bubble on the back but it’s a small have to invest in the 256GB memory price to pay for the very excellent option or do what everyone does results. No telephoto, though, sadly. these days... simply store everything And the design is nice too, with in the cloud. vegan leather on the back.

There is also no audio socket, but connecting headphones by TABLET Bluetooth is the modern and much The latest iPad Pro starts at 900 And the trend is evident in many other areas of technology too. Here is a selection of tech where big savings can be made by looking at manufacturers you might not have considered in the past.

78 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

Chromebooks differ from laptops in that they are designed to work as part of the web, running webbased apps rather than old-style software. Because most of the heavy lifting is done by the host website, Chromebooks, which run Google’s lightweight ChromeOS, can use less powerful and much cheaper processors, and need less internal memory. They are also inherently more reliable – if a laptop suddenly LAPTOP Traditional laptops running Windows dies, your most recent files disappear.

With a Chromebook, everything is or Mac OS are expensive beasts backed up on the web. and come with a big overhead The disadvantage is that you need in maintenance and security.

Nowadays, a Chromebook represents to be online to use it, though many apps have an offline mode so you an attractive alternative with cheap hardware, long battery life, automatic can work for a while without internet access. Also, the web versions software updates and very strong of many popular office systems, security. more convenient way.

Xiaomi has also launched a new stylus, the Smart Pen (2nd Generation) at £70, which also compares well with the Apple Pencil 2nd Generation which costs a whopping £140. The original smart pen was a bit underwhelming but the new one works just as well as the Pencil at half the price.

including Microsoft Office, have some features missing.

Chromebooks are now so popular you can actually pay as much for a top-end model as for a PC or Mac, but look further and you can find machines with more than enough power for anything short of video editing or finite element analysis at prices as low as £200.

Take the Asus Chromebook CX1100, available on Amazon at under £220. It has a small 11.6in screen but a decent Intel Celeron processor and a 64GB hard disc for local files. For general office applications, it is all you need.

And, if you use Google’s office software like I do, that is another major saving. Like it’s free. What’s not to like?

WT

ASUS CHROMEBOOK CX1100

VIVO

XIAOMI PAD 6

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 79

WEDDING TRADER GOES LEGAL We bring you information of new legalities that could affect your business. Advice from the experts really matters...

Solving your shareholder dispute Disagreements between shareholders are often unavoidable. However, when they do arise, they can raise emotive issues and a whole host of complex legal issues, too. The Fox Williams team explains

W

hatever the origin of the disagreement – be it Brexit, the pandemic, or a slow down of the economy – shareholders’ disputes are far more common than we think, even in the fashion industry where shareholders’ disputes are often kept private.

For example, the past few years have seen the shareholders’ dispute involving Ralph & Russo. Such a dispute was financial in origin with shareholder Candy Ventures, owned

by Nick Candy. And the shareholder disputes within Fenwick over the years have also been publicly reported.

It is also the case that it is not only financial considerations that the business is left contending with, but reputational issues, too. In addition, the differing ‘hats’ worn by the individuals (shareholder / employee / director / consultant) can be further complicated in family-owned fashion businesses, where there are often long-standing resentments.

We have seen a rise in client enquiries about how to resolve shareholder fallouts; these range from clients at the very start of a dispute, to shareholders who have already

agreed outline terms to settle their differences but are now contemplating how these can work legally.

Using an illustrative example, we have set out a handy guide to working through your shareholder dispute.

The hypothetical scenario Two 50 / 50 shareholders in a UK private company in the fashion industry (‘FashionCo’) have a spectacular fallout. After months of painful negotiations, Shareholder A has agreed terms to purchase Shareholder B’s entire shareholding in FashionCo. However, Shareholder A doesn’t have their own money and picks up the phone to instruct Fox Williams as follows: “We have managed to settle our differences. FashionCo is going to buy back Shareholder B’s shares as I haven’t got any available funds.

FashionCo also doesn’t have sufficient cash flow to purchase them all on day one, so we’ve agreed a threeyear payment plan.Can you draw up the documentation to make all this happen?”

The hurdles to overcome The short answer to the above

80 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

question is yes, but the execution is more complex.

There is the small issue of company law, which provides that payment for a share buy back must be made by the company in full at the date the shares are bought back. This means that deferred payments paid on days following the date of the buy back are not permitted (and advance payments are also unlikely to be acceptable).

Therefore, the following must be considered: 1. the structure to be put in place to allow FashionCo to use its funds over a period of time to buy back the shares without falling foul of company law; 2. the terms for the continuing, as well as the exiting shareholder, and the documentation needed to achieve this.

This can be achieved in one of two ways as follows: Structure 1 – use of a NewCo In the simplest of terms, a NewCo is established by Shareholder A. NewCo makes an offer to buy all of Shareholder B’s shares in FashionCo in exchange for deferred cash paid to Shareholder B. At the same time, NewCo will often also make an offer to

Shareholder A to buy all their shares in FashionCo in exchange for being issued shares in NewCo. There is no buy back by FashionCo (as NewCo is the purchaser making deferred payment to Shareholder B) so there is no problem under company law.

• Agreed position on confidentiality / announcements / references.

Considerations for Shareholder B Pretty much the same as with a Newco structure. However, in Structure 2 – buy back in tranches addition, they will need to be careful In this structure, there is a series of to ensure that they don’t jeopardise share buy backs by FashionCo. There any business asset disposal relief. will usually be one umbrella sale This will typically see them agreement (the ‘Sale Agreement’) wanting to remain as a director of where there is an obligation on FashionCo until the final tranche sale Considerations for Shareholder A FashionCo to purchase and on of shares. Thought will also need The main issue here is tax. Clearance Shareholder B to sell their shares over to be given to the sale percentages should be sought from HMRC to an agreed period of time. so that, for example, on the final ensure, amongst other things, that This is considered future, rather sale they are not selling only 2% no capital gains tax is payable by than deferred consideration. of FashionCo’s capital (which is Shareholder A. The price, sale dates and number of lower than the disposal percentage Advice will also need to be sought shares in each tranche are all agreed required to qualify for the tax relief). on stamp duty. Although this will be in advance. There is no issue with payable (albeit at 0.5%) on the cash deferred consideration and company Required documents payable to Shareholder B, you will law as on each agreed completion These would be very similar to need to establish whether stamp duty date, there will be a pre-signed stock Structure 1, except that there will can be avoided on the share for share transfer form and all cash due to be be a series of future stock transfer exchange involving Shareholder A. paid on that tranche of shares is fully forms needed with stamp duty paid. The Sale Agreement will also payable on each buy back.

Considerations for Shareholder B contain key terms dealing with events Here, all the shares are being of default; grace periods and default Practical lessons to bear in mind transferred on day 1 and Shareholder interest.

1. If you are feeling frustrated in the B will have little, if any, assurance that Company law sets out the middle of a shareholder dispute, the they will be paid the deferred cash procedure that must be followed to other side is also likely to be in the payment. This is why a share charge action a share buy back. same position. over the capital of FashionCo will often Failure to comply with such procedure 2. It is often said, but usually true, be sought by Shareholder B in this could render the transaction void and that a sensible deal is one where scenario. will constitute a statutory offence both sides feel they have lost as they Also, Shareholder B will consider by the company and every officer in need to make material concessions asking for other contractual default so it’s important to get it right. to bridge the gap (usually on the protections such as information rights We also recommend that the valuation of the shares). in relation to FashionCo’s affairs and / shareholder seeks personal tax advice 3. With some creative structural or consent matters over the operation before making the buy back. thinking, it is often possible to bring of FashionCo going forward until all disparate positions closer together the deferred cash is paid.

Considerations for Shareholder A by the use of deferred payment; This will see Shareholder B continuing security; tax allowances, etc.

Documents required as a co-shareholder and usually as a 4. Avoid litigation if at all possible – it As well as the Share Sale / Exchange director for some time until the final is costly and very stressful!

Agreement and any security tranche of shares is bought back, so document relating to the share there is no clean break.

Saskia Musacchio-Adorisio is an charge, there will also be the need for Shareholder A will want a clear associate, Sarah Carlton is a senior a settlement agreement which will mandate to run FashionCo to allow it associate, and Paul Taylor is a include clauses such as: to fund the future payment, they will partner in Fox Williams’ Corporate • Waiver of all rights by all the parties. also want a clear understanding of Department (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; • Restrictive covenants from Shareholder B’s role (or lack thereof!) www.foxwiliams.com).

Shareholder B. going forward.

• Assignment of any intellectual © Fox Williams LLP 2023 property rights by Shareholder B. J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 81

A N N UA L AG E N T L AW SE M I NA R

Principals and Agents, Suppliers and Distributors: the issues for 2024 When: 30 January 2024, 6.30pm Where: 10 Finsbury Square, London EC2A 1AF

T

his year our seminar considers the issues for 2024 for Principals and agents, suppliers and distributors:

1. Principals and agents – what is reasonable and what is not? Our guest speaker, Oliver Segal KC, will share his views.

4. Giving notice of termination – how you can get it wrong when terminating your agency, distribution, or supply agreements and what you need to do to get it right.

The seminar will be followed by a drinks and canapes reception

where guests will be able to network and discuss with the speakers any questions they may have.

Register for the seminar at https:// www.foxwilliams.com/2023/12/13/ agentlaw-seminar-principals-andagents-suppliers-and-distributorsthe-issues-for-2024/

2. Set-off – do your supply and distribution agreements allow you to exercise a right of set off? And why it is important.

3. Commission – what are an agent’s entitlements following recent court judgments?

Wedding Trader is working closely with Fox Williams under whose care fashion businesses flourish with everything from securing intellectual property rights to renegotiating agency agreements and commercial leases. (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

82 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

SUBSC R ONLINIBE E A

Don’t miss an issue!

nd rece free dig ive your ital each is copy sue

Trader Trader Trader Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

WEDDING

ISSUE 36 • JULY/AUGUST 2023

Here comes Harrogate

Opinions

IT’S HAPPENING ALREADY

WE HEAR FROM THOSE WHO HAVE SOMETHING TO SAY

Industry opinion

Instagram

HER THE E FOR G BR REAT BRID ITISH A RETA LWEAR ILERS

Shimmer and shine

PILING ON THAT EXTRA DETAIL TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE

WEDDING

ISSUE 34 • MARCH/APRIL 2023

Show time

Advice from the experts

TIME FOR A CHANGE IN THE UK...

WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE?

Designed

by AI

WE SHARE THE TOP TIPS FOR SUCCESS

ISSUE 35 • MAY/JUNE 2023

Trade Shows

THE RETAILERS’ FAVOURITE

FACING CURRENT CHALLENGES

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

WEDDING

COLLECTIONS TO SEE, WHERE AND WHEN THIS SEASON

David’s Bridal

THE 2023 TRADE SHOWS

Elbeth Gillis

HAVE YOUR DIARY AT THE READY

TOP TIPS FROM TOP NAMES ON BUYING, TRAINING AND ENTERING AWARDS

HER THE GE FOR RE BRITISHAT BRIDAL WEAR RETAILE RS

ISSUE 33 • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2023

Trend info NECKLINES ARE THE BIG STORY

A COLLECTION WITH A VERY SPECIAL MESSAGE

R E FO HER GREAT THE ITISH R BR EA ALW BRIDTAILERS RE

Accessories THE ONES THAT YOU NEED

R E FO HER GREAT THE ITISH R BR EA ALW BRIDTAILERS RE

Bridespeak WHAT THEY REALLY THINK ABOUT RETAILERS AND THEIR SERVICE

WILL THEY FIND A BUYER THIS TIME?

The Wedding Industry Awards

Groomswear COMPETING FOR ATTENTION

Trader Trader Trader Trader WEDDING

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE 32• NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 22

Harrogate Bridal Week

American Dream

HOW WAS IT FOR YOU?

UDLY PRO RTING O SUPP ITISH R BR EA ALW BRIDTAILERS RE

TRENDS FROM ACROSS THE POND

Big Day plans BRIDES AND THEIR BUDGETS

New gizmos TECHNOLOGY THAT WILL REALLY HELP

Best sellers

Indications from the order books

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

WEDDING

ISSUE 31 • SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 22

Awards finalists

PRO SUPPOUDLY RT BRITISHING BRIDAL WEAR RETAILE RS

WHO WILL TAKE THE CROWN?

Exclusive news from Dessy

GETTING THE RIGHT AMBIENCE FOR YOUR SHOP

It’s show time...

Harrogate 2022

ISSUE 29 MAY/JUNE 22

GETTING THE BEST FROM THE NEWEST PLATFORMS

Talents

PR SUPPOUDLY O BR RTING BRID ITISH AL RETA WEAR ILERS

MEET BRIDAL’S MOVERS AND SHAKERS

Bestsellers at LBFW THE NUMBERS RETAILERS LOVED

PRO SUPPOUDLY RT BRITISHING BRIDAL WEAR RETAILE RS

WHO’LL BE THERE SETTING THE TRENDS

Randy Fenoli SAYING YES TO THE FUTURE OF BRIDAL

From the catwalks THIS SEASON’S SHOW REPORTS

12/08/2022 16:58

WEDDING

ISSUE 28 MARCH/APRIL 22

What makes a winner?

RETAILERS AND THEIR TROPHIES

Short and sweet

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

THE DESIGNERS AND THEIR DRESSES

Facebook

Shop talk

Going legal

ISSUE 27• JANUARY/FEBRUARY 22

Brit-fest

CREATING A BUSINESS PAGE THAT WORKS

LITTLE DRESSES WITH BIG APPEAL

PROUD SUPPORT LY ING BRITIS BRIDALWH EAR RETAILERS

Head start

NEED-TO-KNOWS IF YOU ARE A TENANT

RETAILERS ANALYSE THE STATE OF PLAY TODAY

Get ready to shop

Armed for impact

IT’S THE START OF THE NEW SEASON WT28_Cover JPaa.indd 1

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Social media

ON BRIDES, BUSINESS AND BUYING

Harrogate...

NEED-TO-KNOWS FOR THE BIG EVENT

Trader Trader UDLY PRO RTING O SUPP ITISH R BR LWEA A BRID AILERS RET

ISSUE 30• JULY/AUGUST 22

MEET THEIR NEW UK DISTRIBUTOR

WT31_Casablanca cover_2aa.indd 1

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

THE LATEST GOWNS FOR GORGEOUS CURVES

Retailers

Setting the mood

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Plus signs

WEDDING

10/03/2022 13:46

SPARKLE: THE CROWNING GLORY

• THE LENGTHS • THE SHAPES • THE DETAILS

WT27_Cover JPaa.indd 1

Subscribe to the Wedding Trader newsletter and keep fully up to date with the latest news, articles, magazines and discussions.

13/01/2022 12:25

www.weddingtradermag.com

2024

SHOW DATES

TIME TO PLAN YOUR SCHEDULE For regularly updated details of the brands you can expect to see, and the special show features planned, check the websites weekly. And do contact event organisers to see if there are any travel and accommodation deals

FEBRUARY HARROGATE FASHION WEEK 4-6 February Harrogate Convention Centre Number of exhibitors expected: 180-200 Show first launched: 2018 Harrogate Fashion Week www. harrogatefashionweek.com

MARCH NATIONAL BRIDAL MARKET CHICAGO 17-19 March 2024 The Merchandise Mart Chicago Number of exhibitors expected: 185 Show first launched: 1975 National Bridal Market Chicago www. nationalbridalmarket.com

84 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

ROME BRIDAL WEEK 23-25 March 2024 Fiera Roma, Roma, Italy Number of exhibitors expected: 250+ collections Show first launched: 2018 Rome Bridal Week www. romebridalweek.it/en/

BRIDAL WEEK HARROGATE 24–26 March 2024 Harrogate Convention Centre Number of exhibitors expected: 200 brands Show first launched: March 1983 Bridal Week Harrogate www. bridalweek.com

APRIL ONE FINE DAY BRIDAL MARKET 3-4 April 2024, during New York Bridal Fashion Week Canoe Studios, New York Number of exhibitors expected: 25-30 Show first launched: 2015 One Fine Day Bridal Market www. onefinedaybridalmarket.com

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 85

EUROPEAN BRIDAL WEEK 13–15 April 2024 Messe Essen, Essen, Germany Number of exhibitors expected: 500 brands Show first launched: 2014 European Bridal Week www.europeanbridalweek.com

BARCELONA BRIDAL FASHION WEEK 17–21 April 2024 Fira Barcelona This is the big one, with event after event over five full-on days.

17 April: Barcelona Bridal Night: A catwalk celebration that kicks off the year’s most talked-about bridal happening.

17-20 April: The fashion shows: Four days and one night that will have the bridal world talking. There will be more than 30 international and Spanish design houses strutting their stuff to amazingly staged backdrops, including Carlo Pignatelli, Cymbeline, Demetrios, Isabel Sanchis, Jesus Peiro, Julia Kontogrun, Marco & Maria, Sophie et Voila, Yolan Cris.

19-21 April: The trade show, close to 400 bands, in bridal, groomswear, cocktail, communion and accessories.

BBFW www.barcelonabridalweek.com

MAY WHITE GALLERY 8–9 May 2024 The Truman Brewery, London Number of exhibitors expected: 70 brands Show first launched: May 2010 White Gallery www. bridalweek.com/whitegallery

86 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

JUNE ROME FASHION WEEK 8-10 June 2024 Fiera Roma, Rome, Italy Number of exhibitors expected: 250+ collections Show first launched: 2018 Rome Fashion Week www.romefashionweek.it

AUGUST HARROGATE FASHION WEEK

NATIONAL BRIDAL MARKET

4-6 August 2024 Harrogate Convention Centre

25-27 August The Merchandise Mart Chicago

Number of exhibitors expected: 180-200 Show first launched: 2018

Number of exhibitors expected: 185 Show first launched: 1975

Harrogate Fashion Week www. harrogatefashionweek.com

National Bridal Market Chicago www.nationalbridalmarket.com

SEPTEMBER

OCTOBER

BRIDAL WEEK HARROGATE

WHITE WEDDING PLATFORM

8–10 September 2024 Harrogate Convention Centre

6-7 October 2024 In the 2023 edition, 24 internationally-known brands from the Ukraine presented their new collections in Milan’s stunning Villa Borromeo. Five speakers gave master classes and outlined trends in the wedding industry and a charity workshop was hosted by photographer Diana Vartanova, the money from which will be used to support Ukraine during the war. For the 2024 event, visit www.platform.com

Number of exhibitors expected: 300 brands Show first launched: March 1983 Bridal Week Harrogate www.bridalweek.com

ONE FINE DAY BRIDAL MARKET 8–10 October 2024 Canoe Studios, New York Number of exhibitors expected: 40-50 Show first launched: 2015 One Fine Day Bridal Market www.onefinedaybridalmarket.com

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 87

“Has anyone done shared presentations with local services like hairdressers and make-up artists, and are they working in terms of getting appointments with brides looking for their dream dress? I would love to hear your views as I don’t want to be there just offering a ‘stage’ for other presenters.”

“I am thinking of taking the time and doing the round of exhibitions this year, giving

“I am finding with every one of your issues, the opinions of others are making a real impression and they are starting to feel like colleagues with shared concerns, rather than competitors trying to score points. I’d love to produce the occasional viewpoint for inclusion in your magazine how do I set about it?”

Just drop me a line to susi@ rogol-goodkind.com and we will get the conversation going.

ELLIS

“I have been conducting my own survey with an online newsletter, and am finding the responses, although not a load of them, are giving me a bit of direction. I offered recipients the chance to be entered into a draw in which one bride would win all the accessories to go with her gown. The newsletter went out to brides who have already had an appointment with us but not yet confirmed an order, and to those who have made enquiries. What I did find is that they are seriously looking online first and also reckoning on visiting at least three bridal boutiques.

Price deals did not really come into it, but out-of-hours appointment options did score points.”

my team players the opportunity to accompany me and have an enjoyable few days. Barcelona is obviously a must because it is so talked about, and European Bridal Week is a regular on my schedule. But what about the other events – New York, Chicago, Rome, etc. I would appreciate views of other retailers as to the worth of the time and expense involved.”

And finally Ups and downs, ins and outs, but so much to look forward to

“Can you look at producing an article on interior design for retailers? It would be brilliant to get the views of top names who will have a fresh perspective on what works in this new year and new retail environment.”

We’re on it for you.

Got a view you want to share with like-minded others? Want suggestions from industry colleagues? Email me – susi@rogol-goodkind.com – and we’ll get the conversation going. We are for retailers, and about retailers.

88 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4

To put the power of Propress steam into your Bride’s hands, contact us for Propress MINI reseller details.

Tel: 020 8417 0660 | Email: hello@propress.co.uk propress.co.uk | @propressUK