Wedding Trader - issue 41

Introducing the stunning new Romantica Bridal collections for 2025. Visit us at The Crown Hotel during Bridal Week Harrogate from the 24th - 26th March 2024 for your chance to see the range.

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk | enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk

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fornal and traditional, or laid back? The choice is there

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Ed’s Letter

Yes, it has been a hectic few months with show after show across Europe, over the pond and, of course, in beloved Harrogate. Interesting, though not at all surprising, the return of Bridal Week to the place regarded as its home, was hugely welcomed not only by exhibitors (many of whom grew their businesses there from small beginnings to become international names) but by retailers who have always regarded that trip up north as core to their planning. Well, it’s back to two trips a year now, with Bridal Week March and September, and the inclusion of advice clinics, the annual Bridal Buyer Awards, and all those opportunities to spend time and share ideas with colleagues old and new.

And in that this year has been exhibition packed – the number of retailers who have visited multiple events is amazing – the various awards programmes are also growing in importance and celebrating both business and creative talent.

In this issue we’ve taken a detailed look at the different awards schemes to understand how they operate, who they are directed at, and how they are judged. It’s a bit of an eye opener, because the demands on entrants are considerable, so our congratulations go to everyone who has made the effort, and, of course, to those who cast votes that decided on the new title holders.

We also profiled some of the stand out brands – including the lingerie collections – that are shaping the next round of bridal. Working on stories like these is a joy.

Andy Allen Art Director

“Helena Cotter is celebrating her 21st birthday in the business and looks back at highlights.” (p74)

Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding

“Making sure your premises are safe and secure is vital. Chris Partridge’s smart locks advice is reassuring.” (p90)

Martha Cooke Head of Ad sales

Editor Susi Rogol susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Deputy Editor Jade Pepperell jade@meanttobemedia.com

Sales Manager

Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com

Art Director

Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com

“Offering alterations has both its pluses and minuses, as Sue Lovell explains. One needs to know them all.” (p78)

@WeddingTraderUK

@weddingtrader @WeddingTraderMag weddingtradermag.com

TALKING POINT

The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now

SLOW AND SUMPTUOUS

A legacy of ethical craftsmanship, sustainability and timeless design sits at the heart of all Sanyukta Shrestha’s work and is embedded into the brand’s DNA. Shrestha’s zero waste approach, slow and transparent supply chain, minimal carbon footprint, and high-end designs reflect many hours of meticulous work using the hand-spun and hand-woven sustainable materials that pays tribute to the 1,000-years-old Nepalese Craftsmanship. An advocate of the Slow Fashion Movement, each sustainable dress in her collection tells a unique story, connecting you to the history, real people, communities and culture of the bygone eras that are still alive and want to thrive. The new ‘Heritage’ collection from this London-based, awardwinning designer features cruelty-free, vegan, fairtrade, eco certified and organic materials with exquisite hand embroidery and hand pleating details.

PHOTOGRAPHY:

JEANETTE AND MARK STEVENS STEP INTO A NEW CHAPTER

It is with a mix of sadness and warm wishes that Bridal Collective announce that Jeanette Stevens, UK Managing Director and Mark Stevens, UK Sales Director will be retiring in early June.

Jeanette & Mark have been an integral part of Bridal Collective since the launch of the UK office in 2012. Their commitment to the success of the company has been second to none and their enthusiasm intoxicating. Their contributions to Bridal Collective and the industry will

always be valued – their hard work, commitment and dedication are worthy of all our respect and admiration. Together with Bridal Collective, we wish them a brilliant next chapter together.

A message from Jeanette & Mark:

“Mark and I began our incredible journey with Mary and the global Bridal Collective team in 2012 and can honestly say it’s been a life changing adventure that we will value and treasure always.

It’s with mixed emotions that we transition into full retirement, excited for our future together but tinged with sadness at having to say goodbye. We would both like to thank you all from the bottom of our hearts for the support that you have given both of us personally and Bridal Collective UK over the years, and just as important all the fun, laughter and friendships that have developed on this adventure. We will treasure them.

We leave you in very safe hands and wish you all the very best for the future. Thank you all once again for all the memories... please don’t be a stranger”.

The UK office will continue to operate as normal under the guidance of the Global Bridal Collective company, overseen by Mary Nguyen, CEO.

MAKES SCENTS

Want to make your brides feel extra special? Let them sample some of the great wedding fragrances while they are in your boutique – apparently florals are most in demand right now. Order from online beauty retailer escentual.com (we have quoted their sizes and prices), who has gone through the history books of famous bridal fragrances and compiled a list of some of the most celebrated wedding day perfumes, many of which are making a come-back this year.

Princess Diana wore Houbigant Quelques Fleurs Eau de Parfum Spray (30ml, £50) at her wedding to Prince Charles on 29 July 1981.

Audrey Hepburn wore Givenchy L’Interdit Eau de Parfum Spray (35ml, £44.20) for her second marriage –on 18 January 1969 – to Dr Andrea Dotti.

Adele wore Dior Hypnotic Poison Eau de Parfum

Spray (50ml,£66.30) at her wedding to Simon Konicki on 6 May 2018.

Kate Moss wore Serge Lutens Fleur d’Oranger Eau de Parfum Spray 5(0ml, £99) when she married Jamie Hince on 1 July 2011.

TOP TRENDS FROM NEW YORK

Style guidance from the Spring 2025 collections shown at NYBFW:

Drop Waists: Bronx And Banco | Galia Lahav | Cinq | Nadia Manjarrez | Katherine Tash

Pastels: Yellow By Sahar | Claire Pettibone | Idan Cohen | Nadia Manjarrez

50s Inspired: Bronx And Banco | Marchesa | Tanner Fletcher | Sareh Nouri | Nadia Manjarrez

Mini dresses: Claire Pettibone | Francesca Miranda | Peter Langner |Chosen By Khya Studios | Honor Bridal | Katherine Tash | Nadia Manjarrez

Black and White: Alejandra Alonso Rojas | Tanner Fletcher | Soucy | Nadia Manjarrez

Neck scarves: Andrew Kwon | Savannah Miller | Katherine Tash | Jenny By Jenny Yoo

HARROGATE FASHION WEEK

Harrogate Fashion Week has announced dates for its summer show at the Harrogate Convention Centre –4-6 August – where you will find four big halls spilling over with great classic and contemporary labels.

This event is regarded as a major player in the fashion industry with the largest collection of womenswear brands under one roof, including footwear and accessory brands.

According to organisers, Wendy Adams and Sarah Moody, boutiques from across the UK and Ireland are saying that HFW is the only show they intend to visit.

And that’s no surprise: Over 85% of exhibitors had rebooked their stands after the February event, including Pomodoro, Foil, Sahara, Bariloche, Nomads, Olsen, Dolcezza, Lily & Me, D.e.c.k.by Decollage, Vilagallo, Rino & Pelle and the Godske Group.

Occasionwear is a key sector at HFW, with collections including John Charles, Lizabella, Gabriela Sanchez, Coco Doll, Veromia, Irresistible by Veromia, Richard Designs, Luis Civit on show, alongside complementary accessory brands such as Failsworth, Snoxell, Lotus, Perfect Occasions, J Bees, and Victoria

Charles, and jewellery ranges from Bibi Bijoux, Envy, Gracee and Miss Graceful.

New brands signed up for the August show include Betty Barclay, Peter Kaiser, Blueberry, Soya Concept and Joe Browns.

For more info and a regularly-updated list of exhibitors visit www.harrogatefashionshow.com

YELLOW BY SAHAR

NADIA MANJARREZ

CLAIRE PETTIBONE

IDAN COHEN

Making a difference

Maggie Sottero has announced its groundbreaking collaboration with SuperCircle, marking a significant milestone in the industry’s sustainability efforts set to transform how excess stock is managed and repurposed.

SuperCircle is a technology and reverse logistics platform that addresses the challenges of garment recycling in the fashion industry. The United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) estimates that in 2018, 11,300,000 tons of textiles ended up in landfills, while another 3,200,000 tons were incinerated. On a global scale, an estimated 92 million tons of textiles end up in landfills. With approximately 85% of wardrobes going to waste and clothing ending up in landfills, SuperCircle aims to bridge the gap between retail and textile waste.

The platform manages the logistics of the recycling process, involving technology, shipping, and warehousing to facilitate the recycling of discarded textiles. SuperCircle’s efforts include establishing a warehouse network for sorting and recycling fabric and garment waste and creating custom bails for recyclers. By encouraging participation from retailers, brands, and

consumers, SuperCircle aims to make post-consumer recycling more viable and reduce the impact of textile waste on the environment.

“Our partnership with SuperCircle represents a major milestone for Maggie Sottero as we work to become a more regenerative brand. We have ongoing donation partnerships with design schools and community groups, but our collaboration with SuperCircle is a tremendous step forward in our effort to keep 100% of our excess inventory out of landfills. We believe circularity is critical to environmental sustainability, and we’re honoured to support SuperCircle in their mission to create a world where no textile is wasted,” says Patricia DeLaunay, Maggie Sottero’s Global Sustainability Director.

In a commitment to environmental responsibility and waste reduction, Maggie Sottero will initiate regular shipments of excess inventory and materials to SuperCircle’s state-of-the-art facilities. This strategic collaboration aims to redefine industry standards by embracing a circular economy approach, where materials are recycled, minimising the ecological footprint associated with bridal fashion production.

OUR KIND OF TOWN

If you are heading for The National Bridal Market in Chicago (15-17 September, at the Mart), it is absolutely worth checking out the special hotel deals that have been put together for show visitors – and exhibitors – starting from as little as US$179 at the Kinzie, to US$279 at Virgin Hotels. www.nationalbridalmarket.com/hotels to see the deal.

With all Pure Bridal gowns retailing below £999, please get in touch below to find out how to become an exclusive stockist.

enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk | romanticaofdevon.co.uk

First Person

Laura Daly looks back... and looks forward

Whilst on the plane returning from Barcelona Bridal Fashion week, drowsy from too many late nights and too much daytime Cava, it dawned on me that I’d been buying wedding dresses now for more than two decades, and that I’m still not sure if I really know what I’m doing!

Sometimes, it feels like only yesterday that I rocked up for the first time to Harrogate with my husband, a pocket full of dreams and very little clue - and I find myself wandering around halls and designer stands of gown after gown, still feeling like an absolute rookie, with no clue about what will sell or what to buy.

there’s nothing new anymore.

I think I may have actually asked to be shot when I first spied the return of a puff sleeve, some taffeta, a pickedup skirt and Nan’s pearls, unsure if that was a sign to retire or rejoice that some old favourites were back for another go! What I am sure of is that it never gets any easier buying new gowns for the next wave of customers and that we buyers need all the help we can get!

Big brands have access to so much data on social media, on selling patterns and on what future brides are looking at that it’s verging on criminal if these statistics are not shared with all their retailers.

At other times, I feel like a jaded old ‘been there, seen that, got the t-shirt’, huffing and puffing about how

Given that today’s brides are more informed, discerning, and digitally savvy than ever before, they tend to be seeking a personalised shopping journey that reflects their unique style, personality, and vision for their special day. We bridal retailers somehow have to provide a seamless

experience that caters to the needs and tastes of each new generation of brides. We need to be inspired ourselves so that we can pass this inspiration on with true passion.

Given that most of us spend so much time in our own shops, we have little choice other than to seek our inspiration from our own designers and from the wider world of bridal fashion. The experiences we have whilst we buy are so very important for us to keep our loyalty to our brands. We spend so much of our working time making sure that our customer receives excellence at all points of her journey with us that we expect no less from the companies and designers we buy from. More than ever, we too are hungry for ‘that’ experience and need to be wowed and valued.

Alongside a product that’s commercial and correctly priced, we’re searching for the perfect partnership with our brands, mirroring pretty much the needs and expectations our own customers have of us. We don’t want to be preached at; we want to feel valued and supported.

looking at that it’s verging on criminal if these statistics are not shared with all their retailers. When we’re dropping what can sometimes amount to the deposit on a small apartment on our stock ‘samples’, we want to feel loved and appreciated for doing so, not forced to adhere to sometimes unsustainable minimums with no flexibility.

I have to say at this point that I am extremely lucky to have good relationships with some excellent companies - but, sadly, I am very well aware that this is far from universally true. I believe that an elevated level of care and support for us retailers is equally achievable at industrywide exhibitions and private events alike, but it takes foresight and imagination to think outside the box and a genuine desire to work together.

Given that today’s brides are more informed, discerning, and digitally savvy than ever before, they tend to be seeking a personalised shopping journey that reflects their unique style, personality, and vision for their special day.

Big brands have access to so much data on social media, on selling patterns and on what future brides are

As retailers, we’ve all had to learn the lesson that you have to spend money to make money, and offering a stratospheric level of service or desirability doesn’t come cheap. Also as retailers, we are constantly having to redefine our USP owing to the sheer choice our customers now have. It would mean so much, and I’ve no doubt it would raise spirits all round, if only all our suppliers could adopt a similar approach to us!

Sue Lovell Owner of Susan

Nicholas Opulent Bridal, Cambridgeshire

About you

Are you alone in your business, even if you have staff and people around you? Sue Lovell talks about how to combat those feelings

As a small store owner, I felt alone for a very long time. My staff were great, but as a small team I was always aware that new job opportunities and life events could change their reasons for wanting to work with me. I also knew that no matter how good they were, they would never have the passion that I did for the business. It was my baby after all, my vision, and I had put my heart and soul into it. So, it was too much to expect my staff to feel the same way; they were brilliant, but obviously felt differently than I did.

For years I felt alone and lonely. I couldn’t share all my worries with my staff – I didn’t want them to feel they had job insecurities, and I didn’t want to feel vulnerable.

I haven’t felt like that for a long time. I started to meet other store owners through BrideCo who shared the same experiences, interests and had felt as vulnerable and invincible, depending on the day, as I did.

People who were happy to share their failures as well as their successes with me and others. Because the harsh truth is that none of us is always on the right path; we have all had successes, but we’ve all made mistakes and miscalculated decisions and that’s part of being in business.

We don’t necessarily want the wider public to know of our missteps, but there is a huge opportunity in sharing our experiences, both good and bad, with others. We can save others from the same fate and we can learn from others about how to navigate a new path.

Having someone, or many ones, who you can turn to and be really honest with, without fear of judgment or ridicule, knowing that they will keep your confidence and give you counsel and support when you need it most, is priceless. Those who guide you when you are a bit lost, and will in turn ask you for your advice and may need your support... now that relationship is a special one.

So, in the spirit of over sharing, I’m going to be totally honest. I was putting my report together recently for Q1–

I do this every quarter to focus my mind on what needs to improve and to see where I’ve succeeded. My notes this quarter were more of a doodle – reminiscent of the poo emoji.

For me, Q1 has been a spectacular disaster. Cheering in the New Year in Marbella did not have me seeing the events of 2024 being on my bingo card. To say I have been blindsided by some events and totally broken by others is an understatement. Life and death are just separated by a minute, and success and failure are relative to what you consider really matters to you.

It’s what you value and cherish and what works for you, what consumes your days and keeps you up at night, those are the things that really impact your life. Often you don’t know what really is important until you start to lose it, or see it slipping away.

So, the pity party I recently threw for myself was attended by bridal friends who rallied around, hugged me and kissed me better and showed me that I am more than my losses, my grief, my guilt, my failures and my sadness, and so much more than my success and triumph. I am just me; on good days and bad, on high days and low days, and they were here for me. And I hope I have been for them, and will be in the future.

No judgment nor ridicule – just tissues, Prosecco, open ears and wise words, and laughter. A shoulder to cry on and a foot to kick my ever expanding bottom, that’s what I have had from people who had the same mad dream as me, with different levels of success and satisfaction, of starting a bridal business.

That’s all we had in common, and yet they have changed my opinion of how being a small business owner is isolating and lonely.

Q1 has been one of the most difficult times of my life, the sadness and grief I have felt being in a situation I could not change for the better has been overwhelming and has impacted every aspect of my life. But my bridal

companions and mentors of the past have given me a hope to cling on to and the faith that I can survive this sadness and I can achieve the life goals I want to. My bridal buddies are true friends who will never know how much they mean to me, but I hope by reading this they will get a tiny bit of understanding of the impact they have made on me. I didn’t feel like I had no one to turn to, I knew exactly who I could count on. And I didn’t need to ask – they just knew what to do.

Many of us are in the same position, juggling family life and responsibilities with running a business. Balancing it all is a skill we all have, and we do it well. But occasionally the plates do come crashing down and it is overwhelming. No one can understand unless they, too, are keeping all the plates spinning.

Don’t be shy about dropping an email or message over to another shop or two, or going over to another stand and a fayre and just saying: “Hi, how are you doing? Here’s my contact details if you ever want a chat or meet up for coffee.”

My inbox is always open, so if you ever feel alone and down you can always pop me a message. I can’t solve all problems, but I am a very good listener.

“My bridal buddies are true friends. I hope by reading this they will get a tiny bit of understanding of the impact they have made on me . ”

My advice to anyone feeling alone in business right now is to start putting yourself out there, open yourself up to meeting others at bridal events, fayres, exhibitions and online. Meet people who have the same interests, on whatever scale, and find your comrade in arms. Because every single one of us has evolved with our experiences and challenges faced, and the majority of us are open to new friends and relationships and I don’t know anyone in this industry who won’t offer a helping hand when needed. Some of the biggest names out there are the ones with the biggest hearts and are very open to sharing their advice and knowledge.

On a very personal note, my wonderful dad always read my articles. Even when he forgot who I was to him, and didn’t always recognise me, he would still tell me how much he enjoyed reading them. He won’t be reading this one or any future ones, and I will miss his incredible smile and his warm infectious enthusiasm for anything I, or my children, did. We have been very blessed to have had a man like Brian Jenkins in our lives and we are better people for it. He may have had so many memories robbed from him, but we have a lifetime of wonderful ones we treasure.

Dementia is a cruel disease, but it didn’t take away the love that will always remain with us. Thank you, Dad, you did it all with love, humour and kindness, and we will always try to follow your footsteps.

I’m off to be alone with my superglue – I’ve got lots of plates to put back together, and some pieces are to be put away for good, as they are far too broken to repair. But I’m so very glad I had them, and I held them high and kept them safe for as long as I could.

TW

A LETTER FROM AMERICA

Peter Grimes, of VOWS magazine and Trader’s US correspondent, discusses the bridal market wrap-up across the pond

Judging from the robust activity, insightful comments, overall mood and dramatic styling trends as exhibited at recent US bridal markets, brands and boutiques are generally upbeat in their views of today’s industry… although there was also an undercurrent of wariness, the result of a continually indecisive bride, increasing costs of goods, and frustrations with acquiring and retaining a qualified work force.

The vitality of the market from a design standpoint was clearly on display as couture bridal leaders Ines Di

Santo, Claire Pettibone, Ann Barge, Mark Ingram, Reem Acra, Amsale, Francesca Miranda, Romana Keveza, and Mira Zwillinger presented a continued evolution of bridal design that was brand on-point… as it was for breakout designer Idan Cohen and his latest bridal collections.

Established brands and market leaders Maggie Sottero, Allure Bridal, Casablanca, Mon Cheri, Bridal Collective, Justin Alexander Bridal and Morilee all received a positive reception, with each reporting strong buying activity somewhat unexpected from what in the past has been the slower of the two seasons.

Peter Grimes Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

National Bridal Market, Chicago

Emerging trends

Regardless of price point, design was front and centre, as collections reimagined and repurposed design elements to showcase a dramatic nostalgic flair, and displayed a noticeable return to a more feminine romantic aesthetic as evidenced by elegant, streamlined silhouettes, embellished laces detailing necklines, indulgent overskirts, dropped waists, voluminous bows, bold three dimensional floral embellishments, subtle touches of pastel colors, and sleeves and necklines representing an 80s style and structure.

Creativity and grandeur were also on display with beautifully choreographed runways and inspiring New York-based events utilizing social media influencers to garner the bridal world’s attention… and that of brides worldwide.

during Justin Alexander’s Milan Market runway event (previewed during NY Market).

“Retailers commented that they have seen an uptick in plus-size maids returning to stores to purchases after being disappointed by the quality and fit of online purchases.”

Also noted this season, a remarkable growth (again) in small indie design firms (many of which are nonUS based) debuting their brands and bridal-specific collections for a targeted couture audience, as well as the return of European brands looking to impact the US market, among them Ariamo, Monica Loretti, Julie Vino, Ricca Sposa, Giovanna Alessandro, Julia Kontogruni, and Sima Couture. Accessory houses also enjoyed brisk buying activity, as the category remains a strong proven element for further personalising and/ or customizing today’s bride’s finished look.

One standout example: Justin Alexander Signature’s “Verses in Contrast” collaboration with renowned graffiti artist Gioele Corradengo/Sexdreams in which he personally transformed a traditional wedding dress into a dynamic and vibrant expression of street art

And interestingly, boutiques seemed interested in plus size bridesmaids, commenting that they have seen an uptick in these maids returning to stores for purchases after being disappointed by the quality and fit of online purchases.

Buyers’ optimism for the coming season and state of their marketplaces was noticeable but again with

Claire Pettibone showing in New York

Ines Di Santo Hitting the headlines

an undercurrent of uneasiness. Brides are increasingly shopping multiple stores either to keep the celebration going, or out of fear of missing out what they might see and experience at another boutique. Frustrated stylists and owners feel themselves (rightfully so) under pressure to continually ‘raise the bar’ on the level of personalised experience they offer at a time in which they are increasingly short-handed to do so.

Though actively buying, this cautiousness showed as boutiques appeared to be a bit more discriminate with their purchases, often concentrating on those gowns that would appeal to their local brides, with the possibility of achieving a better return on investment.

Private label growth

Private label bridal goods garnered considerable interest, especially in the US$250-US$350 range as boutiques looked for gowns that could provide a 3-4x markup for the segment of brides shopping in the US$1,000-US$1,200 range. (The search for private label margin goods was not limited to the lower end of the market as buyers also investigated collections/gowns that would appeal to a higher price point bride.)

The desire for higher margins did not appear to be limited to only private label collections. A consistently overheard comment from a variety of boutiques in a wide variety of marketplaces was the need for higher margins overall to offset increasing costs of goods and overhead/ labor, with many commenting that 3x is a minimum

requirement but 3-plus preferable.

(In reponse, brands are re-evaluating their Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price (MSRP), with Mon Cheri recently announcing increases across its bridal collections.)

Other factors in this uneasiness, according to boutiques we interviewed, was not just the difficulty in obtaining staff members and the struggles in providing adequate, effective and ‘appropriate’ training, but in navigating hourly minimum wage increases either on the national or state level, and their effect on existing staff members.

An oft heard question: “How do I handle hiring a new stylist at a new minimum wage requirement that may be the same rate as long time employees?”

And of course… the blessing and curse of influencers unaware of the intrinsics of bridal yet having an oversize influence on brides.

The message

My view of this most recent market season: optimism and concerns are both warranted, and easily justified. Yet, these underlying issues of cost increases, labour shortages, and decreasing closing ratios, affecting all aspects of the industry, are not apparent in either the creativity of design or the quality of fabrication. Nor importantly, in the dedication and commitment from all segments to provide the bride with the essence of the bridal experience. TW

Maggie Sottero showing in Chicago

Morilee at The Mart

THE POWER OF COLLABORATION

Guides for Brides is frequently involved as a media partner to share the images taken during styled shoots. Here, the team shares its insights and explains why a simple wedding venue and bridal boutique collaboration, along with a great photographer, can be a brilliant solution for bridalwear retailers

In the world of weddings, capturing stunning photographs is critical. Whether you are a bridal boutique, florist, catering company or venue, photographs of the service or product you offer will serve as a visual representation and play a crucial role in attracting clients, especially if the photographs help a bride or groom visualise their own wedding day.

In the past, businesses have often relied on the goodwill of photographers sharing images of a wedding (and I’m sure no one needs reminding of the importance of always crediting the photographer). However, as demand for high quality images increases, some businesses are collaborating on styled shoots, which offer a multitude of benefits for both businesses.

“Styled shoots can become costly and complex, with numerous businesses involved each wanting to

get the most from the day to justify the costs of their materials and the model,” explains Guides for Brides director, Alison Hargreaves.

“There can also be conflict between suppliers, with each wanting their product to be highlighted in the key images.

The photos others share of your product on their social media might not be the ones you would have chosen. So, we are seeing bridal boutiques taking control of their own promotional marketing shoots again, collaborating with wedding venues and photographers but without the other suppliers previously involved. It’s simpler to arrange and means everyone gets the shots they need.”

Here are Guides For Brides 6 top tips for a wedding venue+bridal boutique styled shoot:

1. Choose an appropriate venue

Styled shoots provide wedding

venues with an incredible opportunity to showcase their space and highlight their unique features, so choose one where the features they’ll want to highlight will also show off your gowns in the best light. It’s crucial that the venue fits with your target audience so that the images really resonate.

2. Agree the aims and objectives

Ensure that the venue and photographer share your vision and will get what they need from the photoshoot. There needs to be a fair exchange of value for everyone involved to go away feeling happy, and to be excited at the prospect of collaborating in the future.

Be prepared that this may involve you paying for the models as you’ll get the greatest benefit from having the most appropriate and aspirational models wearing your gowns.

Photography: Elizabeth Jayne at Copdock Hall in Suffolk

Photography: Pure Image Photography, at High House Weddings

3. Find a media partner

Collaborating on styled shoots enables wedding venues and bridal companies to connect and build relationships with each other, but also with the wedding media who are usually delighted to have good quality images to share. Speak to them in advance in case they have specific requirements as they are often working with brands looking for product placement, so can guarantee more coverage for your images in return for a particular photo.

The reach you can achieve on their websites and social media platforms, to a completely new audience, will enhance the visibility and credibility of all involved.

4. Create a visual story

Styled shoots offer the opportunity to create a captivating story that resonates with couples planning

their wedding. Through careful coordination and collaboration, wedding venues and bridal companies can curate a theme, colour palette, and overall aesthetic that reflects current trends and appeals to their target audience.

This collaboration helps both businesses create an aspirational image that is both inspiring and attainable for couples.

5. Maximise on content

In addition to the planned photographs and videos of the gowns and venue, be ready to capture behind the scenes footage to create TikToks and Instagram Reels. It’s a great way to engage with your followers and build anticipation while the images are being edited.

6. Prepare to stay late

It can be a long day for all involved, so take water and snacks for your

team and the models. Exclusive wedding venues aren’t usually geared up for catering for a handful of people but you’ll want everyone smiling until the last photo is taken. Some of the best shots will be taken during the ‘golden hour’ just before sunset.

In today’s competitive wedding industry, collaboration between wedding venues and bridal companies is proving to be a powerful yet simple strategy for attracting clients and showcasing their expertise, leveraging each other’s strengths and creating captivating content that resonates with couples. It is a win-win situation for wedding venues and bridal companies, ultimately leading to increased visibility, credibility, and business opportunities.

https://guidesforbrides.co.uk

Photography: David Bostock at Rackleys Barn. Gown by Ellie Sanderson Bridal Boutique

A GOOD IDEA... OR NOT?

Is taking on industry-related careers whilst running a bridal business sensible or downright silly? Join the discussion with Helena Cotter

The bridal industry is notoriously tough right now.

I’ve heard from many people discussing how, although they are getting great footfall, their sales are not matching the number of brides coming through the door.

The sheer amount of hard work sales teams and business owner engage in building up to a sale, which then doesn’t materialise, can be very frustrating. This is down to many factors, not least the sheer volume of boutiques out there, which means brides are spoilt for choice. It can also mean staff sales skills may need a top up. Selling today is vastly different to years gone by – when it was more simple to navigate – which is why it is important to keep up to speed with how consumers tend to shop today.

Social media, as we are well aware, plays a large part. Misinformation from so-called industry experts, who are not even remotely connected to our business, doesn’t help either! But brides can be heavily influenced by influencers – that in itself is a very interesting dynamic. Perhaps if some of these alleged ‘experts’ could spend time working in a wedding dress shop to

learn first-hand how exhausting and wearying it can be down here in the real world, they may adopt a different approach!

Yes, the industry is glamorous, yes, it’s beautiful, yes, it’s high octane and emotional – but the flip side is that brides often struggle to make a decision due to external pressures... and pressures they heap on themselves for everything to be perfect.

Faddy approaches, here today, gone tomorrow techniques should be avoided. Consistency is hugely important. When all else fails in terms of gimmicks, what do you have to fall back on? Lastly, the slowdown in sales isn’t helped by the economic conditions we find ourselves in right now. The cost of living is sky high and shows no signs of coming down in the short term.

All this makes for a particularly wobbly marketplace. I do believe, though, that brides will often find the money for the dress of their dreams. Providing of course everything is in place in any given boutique to ensure that the decision to buy is made easy for their customers.

This is one of the reasons I shall be relaunching my book The Wow

Factor, How, When and Where to Buy Your Wedding Dress, in the summer. This should go some way to helping brides make their minds up earlier rather than later and not feel they have to go to so many boutiques, becoming confused and not enjoying the experience at all.

So, what does this mean for the industry? When times are tough, business owners will often look at how they can diversify within the industry to help boost and improve their earnings. There’s nothing wrong with that, is there? After all, none of us should rest on our laurels expecting business to just turn up. We all work very hard to try to achieve continued success, don’t we?

This could help explain why there has been a huge increase in bridal business owners now opening up and running different forms of training companies and business advice clinics; at trade shows for instance.

I know many of the people who are now expanding their businesses, having worked with them in a professional capacity over the years, helping them and their own businesses to grow. I am sure you’ll

be familiar with their faces, too, by now.

There is plenty of room for everyone. This is a multi-faceted industry which can support other people who wish to diversify.

Let’s dig into the pros and cons of working as a business advisor/ trainer.

WHAT MAKES YOU AN EXPERT?

The pros

Having bags of experience in the bridal industry is, of course, a good start if you wish to help others. Running a bridal business is hugely rewarding – and very hard work at the same time.

There is always competition nipping away at your heels, and staying ahead of any competition is ongoing and relentless.

If you have the relevant experience, are running a highly successful business, and are able to use that to help others in the same industry it seems like a good fit, doesn’t it?

Being able to offer a safe space to help other retailers perhaps in the same position you may have been in previously – when setting up your boutique for instance – can help others immeasurably.

You’ll raise your standing in the industry as a mover and shaker. This is a proper influencer, isn’t it?

And, if your services are booked, you’ll be able to earn that all important extra income, too.

The cons

You’ll want to make sure this new venture doesn’t interfere with the day to day running of your boutique to the extent that it starts to dilute your original business to the point it begins to fall away and become neglected.

You’ll also need to bear in mind that using your own business model (What has worked for you, in essence) probably won’t be a

suitable fit for other retailers because no two businesses are alike. This is something clients who have come to me have given feedback about over the past couple of years.

You’ll also, for clear reasons, not wish to work with a boutique that is in competition with your own business.

I naturally don’t have issues with this particular problem because I offer clients exclusivity in their given town, providing they continue to be a client. I’ve had to turn work down recently due to the fact the boutique in question is located in the same town as a long term, existing client of mine. That is a no-no for me.

Ultimately, it is about your reputation. Don’t spread yourself too thinly. Longevity is crucial to help build customer confidence so, unless you are ready to commit 100%, I would say this is probably not for you.

I am very much a fan of staying in my lane and sticking to my areas of expertise. This has worked for me for over 21 years and has helped me build a client base of hundreds.

You’ll be aware I have helped bridal designers with training as an add-on, and very much enjoy this, so I am not saying don’t do it, just be careful and research well before you dive in!

In summary

When it comes to training a team, what at first glance appears to be easy most certainly is not.

Engaging a group of sales staff and a business owner comprehensively and effectively whilst delivering sales training over a day or a weekend is not for the faint-hearted. I am still learning today and always strive to keep up with changing trends and 21st century selling.

Being able to get the message across to a broad range of personalities, ages, and levels of relevant experience – or no

experience – isn’t something to be taken lightly. There is no one-sizefits-all approach.

It’s more than a case of reading a handwritten training manual to a group of people. It requires diplomacy, tact, empathy, and being able to be challenged on theories and practices, and crucially, work towards synchronising a team to work as one.

And you need to be a demonstrably excellent sales person, too, for obvious reasons.

Knowing a boutique owner is trusting you to help keep their business on the right track is a huge compliment and a massive responsibility.

Building this trust and keeping it is something which isn’t done overnight. It takes years of hard work, reliability and success for that business to keep customers coming back. Over 80% of my business comes through recommendations. If you choose to open up your own business advice clinic, I wish you all the best of luck and welcome on board.

Helena Cotter

The Helena Cotter Training Academy T: +44 (0)1582 451238

M: +44 (0)7896 944759

E: info@helenacotter.co.uk

W: helenacotter.co.uk

BRIDAL WEEK HARROGATE

The March show, back home in Harrogate where it so belongs, introduced the latest collections from long-standing and also new exhibitors. We asked Wendy Adams about its special features

WT What brought on the decision to return the March show to Harrogate this year? How long had it been staged in the capital?

WA The March show had been in ExCel London since 2013 but there was a strong demand from the industry for an event that didn’t pull on the purse strings quite so much. Harrogate is loved by the industry for its safe community with all the social life on the doorstep so it was an easy decision.

WT How many exhibitors were at the very first Harrogate show, all those years ago?

WA This goes too far back and was before my time when I joined in 1984, but I would say five.

WT And how many this March?

WA We had 140 companies showing with everything from menswear, occasionwear, shoes and accessories, and of course the majority of key names in bridalwear.

WT And the countries represented?

WA France, Hong Kong, Ireland, Italy, The Netherlands, Poland, South Korea, Turkey, Ukraine, USA.

WT And how many retailers were there - and from what countries?

WA We were pleased with the number of boutiques that attended, and the ratio of visitors to buyers came in at 17 to 1, which is far higher than even a September show. So I do think the exhibitors benefited

from being in a smaller show that was easy to navigate for the buyers. International buyers came from around the world, including Denmark, France, Ireland, Italy, The Netherlands, Sweden, Turkey, USA.

WT What were the highlights of the show as far as you are concerned?

WA The March show now hosts the Bridal Buyer Awards on the Monday night, which is always an event that everyone gets excited about, and this year was no exception. Nearly 400 people attended the night, which went on until the early hours of the morning.

WT Overall, was business good?

WA We had most of the main brands showing, some were in the hotels nearby, but we welcomed back Allure, Romantica and Mon Cheri to the main March show. The show didn’t have the visitors of a September event but then March never does. Justin Alexander chose to stage its very special event at Harrogate, at the Majestic Hotel (more about that on page 40).

WT With a growing trend towards once a year shows, is this something you are considering and if yes, where will it be – Harrogate or London –and at what time of the year?

WA We will continue to give our clients, the exhibitors, what they want from a show. Many of them are based in the US and still produce two collections a year, so they need to show both collections. If this changes we will work with them.  Dates are booked for both March and September 2025.

WT The advice sessions – were they snowed under with interested parties wanting to consult the experts?

WA The Bridal Retail Success Academy stood firmly as a key highlight of Bridal Week Harrogate 2024. The programme provided business owners with insightful seminar sessions and tailored Business Advice Clinics designed to

support them in navigating the everevolving world of bridal. Hosted by a seasoned panel of experts, including Megan Garmers, Stacy Hughes, Diana McMann, Maria Musgrove-Wethey, Abi Neill, Ella O’Keefe and Julia Smith, retailers were provided with the perfect opportunity to learn from the industry’s shining stars.

This year’s dynamic seminar series covered a wide array of topics, including innovative social media marketing methods, sales-boosting styling strategies and impactful branding fundamentals. There were endless opportunities for every

attendee to learn something new.

As well as the series of engaging free seminars, visitors were also invited to make the most of this educational opportunity by booking into a one-on-one session with a member of our panel of experts at the Business Advice Clinics.

Based upon feedback from retailers, it’s clear that after attending one of these sessions they felt better equipped to tackle their toughest challenges, armed with new skills and an abundance of knowledge thanks to the targeted advice provided to them by industry experts.

WT How do you promote the show to overseas retailers?

WA We have an extensive database of shops both in the UK and overseas, and our marketing campaign includes e-shots, advertising and editorial in Bridal Buyer, the show website, and direct mail.

WT And the dates for our diaries for the forthcoming events?

WA Bridal Week Harrogate 8–10 September; then 23-25 March 2025.

For further information, visit www.bridalweek.com

EUROPEAN BRIDAL WEEK CELEBRATING DIFFERENCE

When European Bridal Week closed its very glamorous doors in the halls of the Messe Essen, Germany, show organisers – United Fairs – had much to celebrate

In the tenth anniversary edition of what has become the largest bridal industry trade event of the year, over 500 design-driven collections met with the event’s record number of unique visitors from no less than 54 countries, setting new standards in ‘Celebrating Difference’.

Said event director Siegrid Hampsink: “We were anticipating a great turnout from the thousands of preregistered retailers, but this exhibition surpassed our estimates due to a record number of unique visitors in these demanding times.

“Celebrating Difference has to be more than words. In this industry of ours, which has seen its own challenges in recent years, being different means adopting new approaches, attracting attention, and delivering what your audience wants.

“Our exhibitors ably prove in their new collections that we are in the start of a whole new chapter in bridalwear, and we, as exhibition organisers, are proud to have been instrumental in facilitating change.”

There is no question about it. Design houses want to meet, sell to, and forge relationships with retailers from across the globe. And buyers want to invest their time and their budgets on the collections that will bring in new customers.

It is a perfect equation, and the one that makes European Bridal Week stand out. Retailers report that the sheer size of the event allows them to see and experience what the market has to offer, to focus on buying, and to control deliveries of their orders. And in these still challenging times, those factors are of vital importance.

New trends were set at this key show, which is deliberately early in the season to allow for deliveries into retailers at the time they are at their busiest. Plans are already in place for the 2025 show, which will take place Messe Essen, 29 - 31 March 2025. Not surprisingly, bookings were already being confirmed, just a couple of days after the success of this year’s event.

HERE’S WHAT SOME OF THE EXHIBITORS HAD TO SAY:

“European Bridal Week is the must-attend show for the northern European Market, and has again delivered a standout event for us and our customers. We are looking much forward to 2025 already!”

James Waddington, Romantica of Devon

“The show went very well for us. We had the opportunity to showcase our new collections to existing accounts that couldn’t travel to our showroom, and we opened new accounts, too, at the show.”

José López, International Occasionwear Director, Rosa Clará Group .............................................................................................

“Again, EBW was perfectly organised! We had a very successful time in Essen. The customer attendance was even better than in 2023, and we saw a large number of new customers who wanted to get to know our portfolio. Additionally, the gala event was a highlight for customers and exhibitors.”

Susanne Mindermann, CEO, Luxuar Fashion

“A good commercial exhibition...”

Daniel Saul, Mascara London

“We were absolutely satisfied with everything. The organisation of the event was outstanding. We have seen a lot of visitors, and we had great footfall to our stand.”

Eduard Pfizenmaier, Amera Vera, Fashion Queen, Lohrengel, Papilio

“We love the loyal team and the EBW show itself as we feel that the show is growing with us. It is all the small things that make our life easier as an exhibitor and allow us to focus on the business only during the show days.”

Adrian Latoszek, Dama Couture

“EBW is one of the most important meeting platforms for our industry throughout the year. Here, we have the opportunity to exchange ideas with our customers in a great atmosphere. The organisation of the trade fair and the visitor attendance are always impressive.

Bartosz Wodecki, Bianco Evento

Justin Alexander... Harrogate Recap

At Harrogate, celebrating 20 years of Justin Alexander and 25 years of Sincerity Bridal, the market-leading house pulled out all the stops for its stockists with a showstopping event that granted exclusive early access to its SS25 collections

The JA team explained: “We wanted our buyers to walk into our space and feel a buzz of excitement, so for this show we were in the beautiful ballroom space at The Majestic Hotel. Our focal point was our runway area with inclusive daily catwalk shows, where we presented our latest designs on models with a variety

of different body shapes, surrounded by a catwalk of flowers created by florists Mollie and Mauve. Buyers were able to book in and spend invaluable one-onone time with members of our global team to gather support across sales and marketing topics, and our design team was on hand to talk through all the latest trends and must-have styles.

“On Sunday evening it was time to take things up a notch, with our bridal week soirée for our authorised stockists in support of our charity partner Vow for Girls, an organisation we are extremely honoured to partner with as they work tirelessly to end child marriage globally. With drinks flowing, delicious food and the sounds of Frankly Jazz on the dance floor; we filled the evening with surprises for our guests – from a mindblowing performance from the incredible magician Nick Crown, to spectacular fireworks and hot chocolate

on the terrace to top off the night – it was magical to bring so many of our valued partners together in one place and to dance the night away together in the most glamorous way possible!

“We are so grateful for all the positive feedback we received from retailers, especially as this was our first dual FW24 / SS25 show in quite some time. Stockists were extremely excited to be able to order so many new looks for their brides at this earlier point in the year.”

And there were certainly many standout styles at the show, including  Jessa (style 88405) from Justin Alexander, a figure-flattering draped

charmeuse fit and flare with the most delicate corded lace long sleeves and peekaboo neckline. It evokes a daring effortlessness with its racy skirt slit and will be loved for its fresh yet timeless appeal.

Dickinson (style 99319) from Justin Alexander Signature is the epitome of a clean and contemporary fit and flare gown. Showcasing 3-D laser cut crepe floral embroidery, its matching detachable train really brings drama, proving less really can be more.

Oriana from Adore by Justin Alexander, with its plunging v-neckline and billowing chiffon bishop sleeves, was a firm favourite. The soft

diaphanous essence of this gown is great for a destination wedding.

Sincerity (style 44478) is a sculpting crepe fit and flare gown with a daring plunge neckline and trending puff shoulder sleeves. The illusion details on the sleeve cuffs and back are trimmed with dazzling lace, and the train has been decorated with stunning embroidery as a final flourish.

Lillian West 66372 is a one-of-akind soft A-line with unique leafy lace embroidery that will shimmer all day long. Its sexy neckline, exposed boning and side cutouts bring a wild and sultry edge to a timeless silhouette.

LOOKING BACK

“March Harrogate was an extremely memorable moment for me and the team, with so many exciting new products to present, as well as the excitement that runway shows brought to the room, and so many celebrations over the weekend.

“Each day the stand was busy, which created a great energy between our buyers and our team. I’m really grateful to all our valued partners who travelled to see us and attended this show.”

Justin Warshaw CEO & Creative Director

DEMETRIOS: A great new perspective

The 2025 collections from Demetrios embody unapologetic glamour and unexpected beauty. The five-collection portfolio will delight retailers and their brides alike, and the latest capsule collections offer something very different

Spectacular lace embroideries, shimmering beadwork, captivating neckline variations, and dazzling coordinating pearl embellishments make a statement about bridal

luxury, while the playful neckline combinations bring a modern twist to traditional bridal fashion.

That’s the message from Demetrios, the house that never fails to introduce brilliantly-edited ranges

that fast set the trends that others will follow. And follow they may, but few could capture the inspired design approach that has become the instantly-recognised Demetrios signature.

Says Eleni Elias: “Our designs shine with fabulous detailing, stunning veils, and the addition of new matching accessories such as beautiful necklaces, scarves and bridal handbags – which will not only complete but elevate the total bridal look. From the way the dresses move to the way they catch the light, each gown is a masterpiece that exudes

OREASPOSA PLATINUM

elegance and grace.”

It comes as no surprise to the bridal cognescenti that Demetrios James Elias remains one of the leading designers in the field, appealing globally, since the 1980s, to a wide range of brides, retailers, cultures, and aesthetics.

“He has taken inspiration from the past and reimagined it for the future,

using luxurious fabrics, intricate details, and innovative cuts to create gowns that are truly breathtaking,” says Eleni. “Modern brides are visionaries of their wedding gown narratives and we, along with our 800+ retailers in more than 80 countries, are proud to help make these dreams into a reality.”

The brand portfolio consists

of five bridal lines – Demetrios, Platinum, Cosmobella, Oreasposa and Destination Romance, and special capsule collections, Demetrios by You and Alta Moda. There is also one stunning occasionwear collection, Demetrios Evening.

For more information visit www.demetrios.com/become-a- retailer

DEMETRIOS

COSMOBELLA

Lost In Translation

Having the knowledge of what can be done to make a dress fit helps to sell it. It reaffirms trust and shows you understand a client’s needs and how to deliver on them. Sue Lovell explains

Are there pros and cons in offering alterations as part of the service you provide? All I can see is pros, but that’s because I have always offered seamstress services, and because I have a head full of design ideas and I know that what I envision with a dress can always be delivered by my fabulous magician Julia, who just makes it all happen, so easily... or gives the impression that it’s effortless. I know that after all this time we have learned and grown in experience together; I just have to ask, and she delivers.

Many years ago, I sold a dress to a bride who lived 200 miles away. I knew without a doubt that with the seams let out over waist and underarm, her dress would fit perfectly. It was too tight on the bust but in my opinion it was a standard alteration. She didn’t want to travel to me for fittings so she purchased her gown on the understanding that she’d find her own seamstress.

A few months later, furious emails arrived saying that every seamstress told her the dress was too small and couldn’t be altered without a corset back put in.  She was told by one that I had sold her a dress that wasn’t fit for purpose. Obviously, I knew this wasn’t the case and I got her back with me and altered the dress exactly as I had said, and it fitted like the proverbial glove. So much drama and upset because I think what was in my head wasn’t translated properly to other seamstresses via the bride. Just because I knew what was needed didn’t mean my bride had understood it. Her then trying to explain it to a third party, not really understanding it herself, meant that so much of what I said was lost in translation.

The majority of our sales will require more than length and fit. We offer design changes and make personal touches with lace appliqués. A recent example was with a beautiful bride called Daisy. I wanted to give her something unique in her dress,

because I adored her – her aura was one of pure joy – so we made little daisy appliqués to match the lace of her MoriLee dress and hid them in plain sight. Very rarely do we just shorten a hem – more often than not we are creating and supporting, and tweaking a design to get it to that dream dress status.

On the other side of things, I’ve had brides bring me dresses they’ve been sold that clearly would not easily alter in the way they’ve been told. Not at a price they are happy to pay, anyway. So many times a bride believes £100-£200 will be enough to cover a full fit plus lace hem and the addition of sleeves, and filling in the back or lowering the neckline.

With no extra fabric, matching sleeves are somehow believed to be an easy addition at minimal cost.

How many times have we heard: “It only needs a tiny bit off the length” to find it is four inches too long with a lace hem, and gaping at the bust and way too big on the waist, with shoulder straps fit for a gorilla. So often I have to remind brides that the picture they are looking at shows them standing on a box, so it may look like it’s skimming the floor, while in fact the plinth is eight inches high.

Being totally aware of potential costs and timescales gives a bride confidence at the time of purchase. I make sure my clients know of the anticipated costs before they purchase, before we have even got to the “say yes” moment. I make it clear that there is no obligation to use our seamstress services, and advise them on how to look for a reputable one, who is insured and who specialises in bridal gowns. A dress may be cheaper than another at first glance, but alteration costs may work out to be more. Full transparency and managing expectations is the only way to be with our clients. A sale at the cost of full disclosure may put money in the bank but it stores up distrust and resentment later on.

Get it right

There are a number of ways to offer alterations to your brides if you don’t have an in-house service. Obviously, the easiest is to provide a list of recommended seamstresses in the area and wave goodbye after the sale. All contact usually then stops with the bride as she leaves your care and finds her own seamstress. She’s out of your hands and the responsibility for the dress is now with her.

But you need to do your research – ensure that the recommended seamstresses are the right ones. You could also have a recommended seamstress who will give you a percentage of the charge made to the bride or a flat fee for the referral is agreed.

You could offer alterations in store, with an independent seamstress using your premises and paying a fee to you for being there. All charges being paid to the seamstress. Or you could charge the client a set package price, which covers all alts, your time and additional costs.  You then pay the seamstress her charges. You could do the fittings yourself or agree a day when they come in to do them all.

Communication is key to whatever you do.  No one likes unexpected or hidden costs. So be clear at the very start at what alterations will be required and offer a guide to anticipated costs.

I’ve been following a bride on social media and her “dress nightmare”. She is not a customer of mine, but I’m aware of the situation. What she is posting regarding her issues bears no resemblance to reality. Weight gain is a big factor of her problems, as a year has passed since she purchased the gown. It was tight when she brought it and the anticipated weight loss has in fact gone in the other direction. Dramatically so!

So, sad faces and photos of her in a very small dress are splashed across social media with all the blame of the ill-fitting dress put on the shop that sold it a year ago. Suggestions of the dress being swapped for a smaller one without her knowledge, or even altered without her consent were bandied about. Then angry posts appeared with fury directed at the seamstresses for being able to fit it perfectly, but at an additional cost to that which she anticipated. The words “extortionate” and “arm and a leg” are used, when in reality the words should be “talented” and “exceptional service charged at the standard rate for additional alterations”.

I know two of the seamstresses she has seen, and they have assured the bride the dress will be altered to fit, with some excellent creative ideas – but they will charge for the service. So the drama unfolds on social media. The shop that sold the dress is unable to control the narrative and the seamstresses are unable to meet her budget expectations to make it fit.

Seamstresses are now refusing to help, not because it can’t be done, but because they understandably don’t

want to be a part of the very public drama.

Naming and shaming a shop for selling a dress that no longer fits as it once did is outrageous, and blaming seamstresses for wanting to charge appropriately for a good job is unacceptable. I don’t think anything was lost in translation in this case; advice was either not heard or just not understood.

By keeping excellent records on fit and the conversations had, about what is required at time of both sale and collection helps enormously, but sometimes you just can’t help someone who is invested in drama rather than solutions.

By managing expectations from the sale through to final fit keeps control of potential awkward situations – but we can’t control what people will do with the information we give them. We can guide but not enforce and ultimately we do our best to deliver, but sometimes our services are not required, or not felt worth paying for.

Know what you are worth. Don’t ever underestimate your value and if that value isn’t appreciated then feel free to walk away. But by providing the bride with an alteration solution you are providing a full service, and that will always help with sales and confidence and those all important referrals.

ANNE BARGE A NAME AND PORTFOLIO YOU NEED TO KNOW

Ten years ago, in the US, Shawne Jacobs acquired the established Anne Barge label. Today there are six labels, each fulfilling a different dream. We gathered the facts and figures so you know exactly what to expect from the winning brand – the one you’ll want

Anne Barge is a powerhouse of creative talents. Based at its Flagship Atelier in Atlanta, Georgia, Creative Director Shawne Jacobs is responsible for the prestigious Anne Barge line and Black Label, where the focus is on couture eveningwear –think dream dressing for MOBs and MOGs. Working

alongside her is Carolyn Candler, principal designer for the contemporary Blue Willow Bride who also assists on Black Label, and Kathryn Heard, the name behind Little White Dress, designed to make a bridal wardrobe complete with pieces for pre- and post-wedding events such as engagement parties, wedding showers, hen

Copeland veil

Dauphine fingerless gloves

parties, rehearsal dinners, and more.

The Curve collection from this exceptional house is another special offering – a size-inclusive range in which any dress across the portfolio can be cut, styled and adapted to a generous range of sizes. And launched last year is the prettiest of flowergirl dresses under the Blossoms by Anne Barge name. Impressed? Wait till you see it all!

Key fabrics for the new season are sourced from the best mills across the globe such as Chantilly laces from France, Duchess Satin from Italy, Embroidered Organza from Spain. Other fine fabrics can also be found in this collection: faille-back satin, Italian Satin and a delicious rose embossed jacquard, all in a palette of the softest colours - silk white, pearl, petal and blush. Expect to see intricate hand-crafted beadwork from India that adds a layer of statement-making detail and a hint of shimmer.

Embroideries are a special feature for 2025 and feature in Alençon lace appliqués, hand-embroidered and beaded roses, beaded embroidery, embroidered netting, floral Chantilly lace and stunning garden-inspired organza embroidery – botanics at their most beautiful.

With 12 to 15 new pieces in each line for the season ahead, the choice for stockists is considerable and when you think of the options to personalise a dream dress –

with detachable accoutrement like bows, capes, coverups and wraps, overskirts, changes of straps and clever little extras like gloves to introduce added personality – there is so much on offer. Small wonder, then, that well-known celebrities and today’s influencers form Anne Barge’s impressive client base.

How best to describe the latest line up of looks that will be cherished? Here’s what the house has to say: “The SS25 Collection is effortlessly sophisticated and romantically modern, seamlessly combining Anne Barge’s legacy of timeless elegance with the excitement of fresh, forward thinking design elements. Each gown exudes grace and a sense of understated luxury, perfect for the bride seeking a dress that transcends trends. The collection showcases classic silhouettes with modern twists, intricate lace details and delicate embroidery. From hand-beaded Jacquard patterns for added texture to luxurious duchess satin for a regal touch.”

With a network of close to 150 prestigious accounts worldwide, this is a house that demands attention. And it will certainly delight the most demanding of brides.

T: Whatsapp 301.606.5889

E: hello@annebarge.com

W: annebarge.com

Dauphine Orleans

Troubadour by Blue Willow by Anne Barge

Petey fingerless gloves by Blue Willow by Anne Barge

Brennan by Blue Willow by Anne Barge

Conti by Blue Willow by Anne Barge Conti

THE HOUSE OF OLVI’S PRODUCING GREAT THINGS... AND MAKING A DIFFERENCE

For many a year now, more than two decades in fact, Olga Yermoloff, director and designer of the exceptional Olvi’s Bridal Collection, has marked every season with creative innovations that excite, inspire and push boundaries

Nothing here is simple or straightforward –fabrics twist and turn, cuts plunge and curve, silhouettes go from cling to fling, flesh goes on show, or into hiding.

An exclusive French stretch lace elevated the Olvi’s name to the international stage, and the design bravado took it to every red carpet event, worn by the stars, the A-lister personalities, and those all-important influencers who can shape opinion and create desire.

Olvi’s lace itself is designed to produce special effects, for 2025 with the addition of detachable sleeves and little chic boleros, introducing yet another Yermoloff dimension. The long-held vision is to make every woman her own muse, and the signature timeless lace that is delicate yet powerful and epitomises the brand, when allied with other fabrics and textures, becomes appropriate for every occasion.

And it’s not only occasionwear that puts this label

on its own platform, but the bridalwear ranges are, as you would expect, astonishing in their sense of high style, introducing the meticulous handcraftsmanship of the talents behind the brand – including highly skilled seamstresses, pattern makers, and designers. And equally exciting is that even the most complex of gowns can be modified according to a bride’s own dream.

Black and white feature in the new collection, but there is added warmth to the pale, with a soft creamy shade instead of pure crisp white.

The new season occasionwear collections – The Wonderland, Desert Rise, Reveries, Crystal Nights, Infinity, Paradiso, and Gaia – are rich in colour, wild in pattern, and multi-layered. In bridal, there is Celest, Primrose Dreams, La Vie Boheme, Royal Romance, Savannah, Alchemy, and Paradise Island, each telling a unique story that cannot fail to impress, and that includes one of separates, as well as flower-sprigged lace.

Based in Amsterdam, and boasting a magnificent store within its portfolio, Olvi’s has always supported and will continue to support its team. Over the past year, Olvi’s facilitated the relocation and rehabilitation of Ukraine’s Production team to Portugal, along with their families. So far, they have successfully helped 20 families to find new homes and become self sufficient.

Says Olga: “We encourage worldwide peace and prioritise our team’s constant safety because we are one entity.”

Interested retailers can find out about becoming an Olvi’s Lace stockist by filling out the form at  https://www.olvis-lace.com/become-a-retailer

SADONI THE NORDIC BEAUTY

We have long been a fan of SADONI but the brand’s linen addition to its stunning bridal collection, where sustainability meets Scandinavian elegance, is a real showstopper

For over two decades, Sadoni has been crafting wedding dresses that transcend trends, offering brides an unparalleled experience of grace and refinement. With their newest linen collection, they continue this legacy, redefining modern bridalwear with a blend of minimalistic charm and effortless sophistication.

Inspired by the serene landscapes of Scandinavia and the enduring spirit of love, the new linen collection, launched at Essen in April, features an array of ethereal designs that capture the essence of natural beauty. From flowing silhouettes to exquisite lace detailing, each

gown is meticulously crafted to reflect the unique beauty and personality of every bride.

At the heart of Sadoni’s philosophy, lies a commitment to sustainability and ethical production. Every dress is handmade in Europe using the finest sustainable linen materials, ensuring not only exquisite quality but also a clear conscience and affordable option for the environmentally-conscious bride!

“Our goal is to create more than just dresses; we aim to craft unforgettable experiences for our brides,” says Trude Sadoni, the founder and creative force behind the brand. “With our latest linen collection, we invite brides

River Ridge

to embark on a journey of self-expression and timeless elegance.

“Our design and production ethos is clearly focuse d on our principles,” says Trude. “They start with Simplicity: Our designs are characterised by clean lines, minimalist details, and effortless elegance, allowing the natural beauty of every bride to take centre stage.

“Nordic Identity: Our brand is deeply rooted in our Nordic heritage and the serene landscapes of Scandinavia. We draw inspiration from the tranquility of nature, infusing our designs with elements that capture the essence of Nordic beauty and craftsmanship.

“Sustainability: From our choice of materials to our production processes, we prioritise eco-friendly practices that minimise our environmental footprint and promote ethical production standards.

journey with authenticity and joy.

“Authenticity: We believe in being true to ourselves, our values, and our vision, creating designs that resonate with sincerity, integrity, and genuine passion.

“Natural Beauty: We celebrate the inner beauty of every bride. Our designs are crafted to enhance and complement the natural grace and elegance of each bride, with flowing silhouettes, soft fabrics, and timeless details that evoke a sense of organic beauty.”

“Every dress is handmade in Europe using the finest sustainable linen materials, ensuring not only exquisite quality but also a clear conscience and affordable option for the environmentally-conscious bride!”

She explains: “These are the principles behind our brand. And that is why I have created this range of linen dresses, for effortless, casual brides with lower budgets and more intimate ceremonies. For the autumn, we will be adding a collection of colourful bridesmaid dresses to our portfolio.”

“Untraditional: We celebrate individuality and embrace the unconventional. Our designs offer a fresh perspective on bridal fashion, breaking free from traditional norms and allowing each bride to express her unique lifestyle and personality.

“Free-Spirited: Like the windflower dancing in the breeze, Sadoni embodies a spirit of freedom and adventure. Our designs are for the modern, free-spirited bride who dares to dream, explore, and celebrate life’s

Brilliant news is that Sadoni has been restructuring and refining its services. The result? An improved atelier, greater efficiency, and more affordable prices. This is the perfect opportunity for fashion-forward retailers to explore the label and its versatile mix-and-match possibilities that allow brides to craft their own look. And there’s so much more to come... don’t miss the opportunity.

SADONI Group AS +47 4727 5769 post@sadoni.no / www.sadoni-shop.com

Raven Ryker

Rose

Ronja back Ronja front

PETA’S PLACE

Following on from my new house saga – I’ve taken it right back to the bricks and mortar, back to the foundations, new windows, the works, I sent Susi a picture showing its current state and she immediately ordered a lingerie piece... a guide that you can print off and make available to all your brides

Agood bit of structure underneath any dress is a bonus. Gone are the days of heavy boning –today’s shapewear is made from light breathable, stretch fabrics, ensuring comfort. I remember years ago going to department store and they sold corselets in rollup tubes.

Peta goes undercover

Corselet sounded so much lighter than a corset, but this had lots of pink rubber in it and my friend Jackie used talc to squeeze into the thing, but sadly, no matter how much she squeezed in, bits of her still popped out over the top; we learned at an early age that you can’t shift a whole lot of tummy no matter what the advert said... the excess had to go somewhere.

Maidenform, who have been around since the 1920s, stress that Shapewear should work with your figure not against it, which I think is much more realistic. Its remit is that you should have underwear solutions that sit discreetly under clothing, so no one will know.

The dream scenario is to create a silhouette so the bridal gown can slide effortlessly over. Of course, we’ve all got different issues. Some of us want a bit of a boost in the bust area and some of us want a bit of a reduction, a little streamlining of the tummy, or smoothing of hips and waist, so it is important that the chosen underwear be bought before

the final fitting. Here’s where retailers can really keep their brides happyand appreciative.

Apart from shapewear for the dress, a new wedding lingerie wardrobe is a delight! Think ‘bottom drawer’ as it used to be called, underwear and nightwear carefully put away for the big day. I was not convinced that a bride really needs a garter belt, baby doll nighty, kimono, teddy, bustier, and a honeymoon set or two, but last week I went to a bridal lingerie event at The Wedding Club where 70-plus brides were booked in, so the lingerie want is ever-present... and who can resist the lure of a fluffy-trimmed dressing gown?

The perfect fit... for budget and body

My conscience may question how such tiny garments can carry such huge price tags, but the obvious answer is that the delicate materials used – the fine laces and silks –and the specialised manufacturing required for crafting each piece

warrant the cost. Having said that, an increasing number of high street lingerie brands are jumping on the bridal bandwagon now, recognising that no matter how much has been spent on the dress, there’s nothing quite like the appeal of great underwear.

I remember going to be measured for a bra at a very posh place, and standing in the mirrored changing room with the fitter telling me that my bra was the wrong size, style and shape. She strapped me into a particular model, assuring me that

LACE

after a couple of wears the elastic would ease. True, my bust was where it should be, and after shelling out quite a lot of money, yes, I bought matching pants, too! My new bra cut into me so much that it never had the opportunity for the elastic to expand – it was a form of modern torture I didn’t want. A while later I did buy one of those trainer-type bras with no support. Sadly, within ten minutes gravity took over.

I put my arms up and I fell out. Another waste of time and money all because I’m too pig- headed to ask

for help from the right place.

To try to simplify wedding lingerie from a practical point of view, I decided to sort my search for good pieces into various categories: smooth, firm up, boost, and then at the end, just few with a bit of sass. My goodness, when scrolling through the web there’s a lot of very suspect underwear. Call me old-fashioned, I’m not sure I personally want to be wearing some of those G- strings with pearls, and as for bras with bits missing all over the place – do they really count as bras?

LYLA

LONG LINE MULTI WAY

Bra basics

It appears that Spanx’s long-held monopoly of the smoothing pants market now has competition. Years ago, I used to do a daytime TV programme called Style Challenge and we would whip out pairs of Spanx at the drop of the hat. Spanx and Wonder Bras were the go-to tools of the stylist in the 90s and early 2000s; now we are more relaxed about our shapes, and we just need to gently ease our bodies into our dream dress.

Step forward our old friend, Kim Kardashian; Skims is a shapewear brand she co-founded, wanting

to focus on body positivity and inclusivity. According to KK: “We are setting new standards by providing solutions for everybody. From technically constructed shapewear that enhances your curves to underwear that stretches to twice its size, our goal is to consistently innovate on the past and advance our industry for the future.”

After years of customising her shapewear by cutting, sewing and dying pieces with teabags, can you imagine her doing that?

I think this might be what she instructed some of her stylists to

do. Thus her solution wear, Skims, was designed to seamlessly sculpt without sacrificing comfort, and to remain completely invisible under clothing. I did think that was a load of insta rubbish, being a natural-born sceptic, but I did try and I bought a vest. It doesn’t turn you from a blobby mass into KK, but it definitely helps to smooth out some of the areas that we don’t like to talk about, plus it is comfy and not as expensive as some other brands, which also came as a great surprise to me.

Top of useful items in the lingerie wardrobe must be a strapless bra

PLUNGE PUSH UP

because it can work under a multitude of dresses – strapless obviously, halter neck, one shoulder, off-theshoulder.

The unsung hero part of the strapless bra is the underband, which provides maximum support to the breasts. It sits horizontally around your back and must never arch upwards; it should be firm and snug enough to slide two fingers underneath easily, but not so tight it’s killing you. We all know the relief of coming home late at night and whipping your bra off, oh the joy of it when you do. Too much personal details? It’s also important

when trying on a strapless bra to make sure you can move your arms up and down without it riding up over your chest. Fit is key.

For an open or low back dress, a lot of ‘bodies’ work, multi-ways can be good, but there are also bra adjusters that while looking a bit like a weird home made contraption, actually work quite well to convert a normal bra into a low back.

For a low V-neck dress, plunging neckline bras are a must – avoiding wide straps, though, there’s nothing worse than seeing bra straps – a good deep plunge bra will help create

cleavage if that’s what the bride is looking for. Often an underwire is used in these to provide additional support and gentle lift.

A balconette bra can help with a scoop neck gown, but I’d always look for ones of slightly smoother fabrics –there’s nothing worse than a sheer or satin dress with a lacy bra underneath – the last thing you want to show is texture, and although lace is so romantic, I’m not sure it needs to be seen. Leave the lacy undies for a party dress if we are talking a two-dress bride, or for the honeymoon?

Braless with confidence is for the

STRAPLESS

carefree, body-confident bride. There is a huge selection of nipple covers, boob tape, silicone stick-on bras, stick-on lifts, all budget friendly and perfect for that sheer lace or chiffon top.

Smoothing underwear may not be the most exciting to look at, but smooth seamless pieces work under most dresses to give you clean lines. Not every dress will need shaping underwear as a corset is built into the dress. Gowns with a nice big skirt? Now is your chance to wear a fancy frilly pants.

SMOOTH

PANACHE WOLFORD

PANTS

Oh knickers

Talking pants, high waisted ones should be the go-to for slinky dresses, fishtail, and bias cut. Try to avoid feeling like a trussed up chicken though, high waisted pants can be a joy, but again, make sure they’ve not got too much Lycra in them that you feel like a squeezed toothpaste tube.

Anything that flares from the waist, wear whatever pants are favourite, from boxers to g-strings. No VPL (that’s visible panty line) please, ever.

The body

Most bodies have built-in bras that can support; the bonus of a body is it doesn’t ride up, and gives a completely fluid line. There’s a lot to be said for wearing one under a wedding dress, it avoids wearing a bra, waspie, suspender belt, and pants, so buying a good body can also prove functional and cost effective. Always make sure of course that it does have a functioning gusset (what a dreadful word). The gusset needs to be one that can easily be undone, there is nothing worse than popping to the loo mid party and having to strip off the dress so you can go to the toilet. I really don’t understand why some people feel you need to wear pants as well underneath the body? Doesn’t that defeat the object and feel bulky?

SKIMS

BELLELUEUR

RIGBY AND PELLER

BODIES

LACE & FAVOUR SPANX AT NEXT

MARIE-JO AVERO FREEPEOPLE

PINK GRAPES

CORSETS BASQUES SUSPENDERS LONGLINE

STICK ON BACK ADJUSTER

Garters

Is this another piece of wedding frippery or the carrying over of a historical tradition? Is the modern bride still desperate to whip off her garter and hurl it at an unsuspecting bridesmaid on the dancefloor? I’m not a huge fan. Nor when the Groom removes the garter either with his hands or teeth! Yes, I am the Wedding Grinch.

Whatever the B2B wants, the garter should be checked before. Nobody wants a bridal mishap with a thrombosis during the ceremony due to an overtight garter. Or a too-loose garter that falls down mid-aisle walk. As the Wedding Grinch, I just feel they look like oversized scrunchies.

So what is the point of good underwear? To smooth? Hoist? Flatter? Give you confidence? All of the above... and to make you feel just that bit extra special.

DONNA

As Helena Cotter celebrates 21 years in the industry, we asked the same number of questions about the growth – and the differences – she has witnessed in the market

1Where were you and what were you doing 21 years ago?

I was working at a very successful bridal shop in Hertfordshire.

2 How did you happen into the world of bridal – who with and where?

I literally fell into it. A girlfriend of mine’s mother had a shop which sold bridalwear, eveningwear to hire and second hand clothing. I got a job there and worked in all three areas with colleagues. Up until that point, I had never seen or touched a wedding dress. I loved being part of something really quite unique at the time. We had many regular customers for evening and daywear. Brides gravitated towards the shop because we were selling either once worn or designer sample gowns.

3 Was it love at first sight?

I love sales and I consider it one of my strengths. Seeing brides every day was exciting and in those days there weren’t that

many wedding dress shops so it was a captive market. Helping to make a bride’s dream come true was a fantastic feeling. Working in a wedding dress shop isn’t all glamour. It is exceptionally hard work – and work I enjoyed.

4

So where did you gather experience before then and what were the first lessons you learned?

My what I call ‘professional sales experience’ was gleaned from selling cars. Fiat, Honda, Mazda and others. The subtle nuances at work in that environment were very transferable to the bridal market.

It is also where I discovered the secrets of how people buy.

Women tend to buy based on emotions so any female car buyers would gravitate towards me in the first instance and be concerned with things such as car colour, what the seats were made of – warm and comfy, mirrors, etc.

Men, on the other hand, were always fixated on engine size, braking

capacity, torque, etc.

Even in 21st century Britain where these kind of observations may appear at first glance old fashioned or dated, it still largely applies and forms part of the training courses I run. After all, human nature hasn’t changed much in millennia, has it!

5

What was leading the way in bridal then?

Designers and manufacturers such as Ellis and Ronald Joyce were top sellers. You had the Princess Diana type dresses, lots of frills, lace, puff sleeves, fabric roses everywhere, and of course a bow on the rear.

6

The first show you attended. Where was it, what was it like, who were the big names?

The first show I went to was at Harrogate one September. It was like nothing I have ever experienced before. Alan Hannah, Tracey Connop, Catherine Rayner, Ritva Westenius and Ellis are the designers I remember.

It was a four-day show from the Sunday to a Wednesday back then and exceptionally busy. Full on work and plenty of partying.

We used to drive up after work on a Saturday. It was a very long show and it was absolutely brilliant. Heaving with buyers and a huge buzz that makes this industry special.

21 QUESTIONS

7

How did you see your place in bridal back then?

Working in bridal retail plus the car industry work was setting me up nicely for what came next. My sales training work.

8

And when did you moved to what and to where?

It was in 2003. I went part time in bridal retail and started my bridal sales training company.

9

How active was the market then?

It was growing steadily. But if I can recollect correctly, there was rarely more than one shop in any given small or medium size town.

10

What help did retailers get, were there trade associations and who operated them?

When I started out, I don’t actually recall any trade associations. A lot of bridal shops I knew back in the day used to ask their solicitors for advice.

The RBA, BBRA and others have come along since, of course.

11

How many retailers were there in the UK then?

Not very many at all. Everyone had a very large piece of the pie. There were chain type franchises, I recall. And some department stores selling bridal dresses. Overall, though, it really was

QUESTIONS

a very niche market.

There wasn’t as much focus on the experience for brides such as VIP appointments, alcohol, treats, etc. It was very straightforward mostly with a lot less potential drama!

12 Were buying habits very different?

Yes. For the company I worked with it was pretty much strictly Harrogate in March and September. They would also go to Pure in London to buy things. You did see a good few agents out and about also. Buying took place twice a year in Harrogate and minimums were quite high.

13

What has been the biggest change in the marketplace that you witnessed?

From my clients’ perspective, the paradigm shift in how brides buy today is the result of the internet, social media – and celebrity culture. Everyone has had to move up a

few gears in order to deliver to a clientele that can be difficult in terms of not committing, having unrealistic expectations and endless shopping around. From wanting to try on every dress to inviting lots of guests, to wanting a champagne experience all the way. FOMO.

14 What drove it?

Again, the internet and, I’d say, professional business people opening bridal boutiques. I have been told by overseas companies related to the bridal industry that the UK used to be seen as a cottage industry. How true that is or not I don’t know. It’s certainly

an interesting outside perspective. There are also many people who have opened bridal businesses due to bad experiences they may have had when searching for their own wedding dress.

15

What, over the years, aside from covid, has made the biggest impression on the market?

International bridal shows. Without a doubt, because retailers now have the whole world open to them to buy dresses from previously little-known designers. And the sheer choice for brides when looking to buy a wedding dress. There are so many shops out there now which means potential competition all around the country.

16

How come you moved into bridal sales training – was there a gap in the market, and a real need?

Actually, 21 years ago there was no market. I am told I was the first person in the world to develop sales training courses and services specifically for bridal retailers. There was – and is – definitely a need. I was egged on by a friend in part and also because of my experience selling cars, chiefly Honda.

We were sent on so many sales training courses with Honda cars and had to do live role play scenarios whilst being videoed with the rest of the team watching and listening in another room. It was really embarrassing! But it taught me a lot of lessons about myself and has allowed me to develop and hone my unique skills in order to deliver training in a professional, human and friendly way – a way which is both down to earth, common sense and very easy for my clients to learn and put into practice. When I train any clients I do so without any pre-conceived ideas with regards to owning and running

a bridal retail business. When you do own a bridal boutique, sales training staff can be skewed one way. This may work for your business but not necessarily for others. All of my clients are different so the one-sizefits-all approach is not an option for me. Treating clients as individuals is as important as the way each and every individual bride is treated.

17

Your clients - were they big businesses or newcomers to bridal?

I’ve been lucky enough to have worked with many hundreds of bridal retailers to date, and all of my clients over these 21 years have been and still are 100% family run businesses. I’ve literally worn a hard hat and boots in a building site of a new business, helped owners plan and design the interior layout, and worked with clients who have been in the industry 30 years or more and everyone in between.

I’ve trained in excess of 20 people from one business to one singleperson business owner working solo. It’s great because I get to meet and help so many people with different levels of expertise.

I firmly believe family run bridal businesses are the beacon of hope for UK high streets, so being a part of that is fantastic. The fact my clients choose to come back to me again and again is humbling. It tells me that what I offer is relevant and effective.

18 What’s the most commonly asked questions you get?

I can list them out:

– Do you work with anyone else in my area? (I offer strict exclusivity of a town/district for clients who book ongoing in-house courses).

– How can we sell more dresses without being pushy?

– Brides always say we are the best

and don’t buy from us. Why?

– What more can we do?

– How do you get over brides who come in, fall in love with a dress and not buy it?

– Why do brides need to keep coming back to try on dresses?

– Why do brides keep looking in other shops when they’ve found a dress with us?

– How do you run a successful appointment. Timings, content, number of dresses to try on, etc?

– What do you do at the end of the appointment when there is a silence?

– How can you say no without saying no?

– Should you follow up appointments and how do you do it?

– How can we tackle the situation where other shops copy what we do?

– Can we charge for appointments and how does it work? Then there are working-as-a-team questions: individual performance and the like, plus moving a business forward when trying to grow. These are just some of the many subjects I cover for clients.

19

What effects has the pandemic had on attitudes from retailers?

Again, let me list them out:

– For better or worse, a good few retailers now tend to work by appointment only and are closed otherwise. Advising brides to bring fewer guests, which is no bad thing.

– Ditto shorter appointments. Boutiques which offer two-hour appointments these days can struggle with sales. Optimum timing is something covered in my courses.

– Brides coming in at the last minute to buy a dress and not understanding why they are told no in certain circumstances.

– A nervousness about buying. Drilling down, going outside of what could be seen as a comfort zone.

– Hesitancy with regards to investing in sales training. This is a shame because all I can say is it works, and you get what you pay for.

– It is a worthwhile ongoing investment and should be seen as part of normal day to day business expenses. I always think of this quote from Albert Einstein to sum it up: “If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got”.

– Sometimes, you need to take a gamble. As I tell my customers, I shall show you how to work half as hard and sell twice as many dresses. What’s not to love about that!

20

Do you think bricks and mortar retailers can survive in the digital age? Definitely. I truly believe bridal retail is the absolute best on offer in the

High Street. It’s very important to have an appealing and relevant SM presence. That includes a website, which is updated. Often these are overlooked in favour of Facebook, etc. Your website is effectively your shop window.

21

What are your plans for the short to mid-term future?

I shall of course continue to offer my services to any bridal retailer who chooses to invest. I am told I am the leading bridal sales trainer in the UK, which is a huge compliment and not something I take lightly.

I have worked exceedingly hard over these 21 years from literally nothing; from the ground up, to reach the top of my career in this bridal industry – and with a good wind in the right direction, I aim to stay there!

LEARNING FROM THE BEST

Helena’s book The Wow Factor is back. Don’t miss it!

RECOGNITION

Being a finalist in an awards programme shows you have made an impact, and been noticed. Winning a coveted title is, of course, the ultimate accolade, but it is the process of getting there and celebrating with others that helps pave the way. We report on this year’s awards initiatives in the industry, and the retailer/supplier categories

THE BRIDAL BUYER AWARDS 2024

Says the organisers of this longstanding event: “The awards programme is made possible through the involvement of our sponsors who are proud to be associated with excellence in the field. Attracting topname sponsors who are committed to supporting the industry and recognising design, production and retailing excellence, we are so excited to unite the industry and celebrate its successes.:

This year saw the Awards return to the Harrogate Convention Centre for a lavish back-tie drinks reception and dinner, followed by the awards ceremony hosted by TV journalist and presenter Christine Talbot. The entry process involves form filling online and supplying the requested information and images. Entries are checked by an independent awards team to ensure they have met all the entry criteria and secret shopper

checks may be carried out to ensure factual information given is correct. Submissions that pass the early stages go forwarded to panels of category judges. All judging is carried out independently and confidentially with judges electing six finalists within their category, awarding entries one to six points and detailing reasoning for their top three choices. Scores across all categories are collated to arrive at category finalists.

The Bridal Buyer Awards 2024 WINNERS

RETAILERS

Best Use of Social Media

Laura May Bridal

Bridalwear Retailer of the Year - England (Large)

TDR Bridal Birmingham

Bridalwear Retailer of the Year - England (Small)

Adella Bridal

Bridalwear Retailer of the Year - Ireland

Love Ellie Bridal

Bridalwear Retailer of the Year - Scotland

Aimee Bridal Couture

Bridalwear Retailer of the Year - Wales

Laura May Bridal

Customer Service of the Year (Retailer)

Charlotte Elizabeth Bridal

Inclusion & Diversity Award (Retailer)

TDR Bridal Birmingham

Interior/Exterior Design of the Year

The Aisle Edit

Longstanding/Established Retailer of the Year

Abigail’s Collection

New Bridalwear Retailer of the Year

The Ivory Edit

Team of the Year

Sisters of Grace

Website of the Year

Ellie Sanderson Luxury Bridal

SUPPLIERS

Bridal Accessories Supplier of the Year

Charlotte Mills

Bridal Party Supplier of the Year

The Dessy Group

Bridalwear Supplier of the Year -

International

Maggie Sottero Designs

Bridalwear Supplier of the Year - UK

Ellis Bridals

Customer Service of the Year

(Supplier)

Allure Bridals

Inclusion & Diversity Award (Supplier)

Maggie Sottero Designs

Sustainability Award

Rolling In Roses

SPECIAL AWARDS

The British Design Talent Award

Savannah Miller Bridal

Wedding Dress of the Year

Grove by Justin Alexander

Editor’s Choice Award

Anne Priscilla Bridal

Special Recognition Award

Barry & Regine Waterman, Ellis Bridals

GUIDE FOR BRIDES CUSTOMER SERVICE AWARDS 2024

This year marked the eighth annual Guides for Brides Customer Service Awards, a prestigious event, held at Oxford Town Hall, that recognises the achievements of those who work around the clock to make wedding truly special. Exceptional customer service is seen as the cornerstone of success for many in the industry, with couples, now more than ever, looking for trustworthy suppliers to provide the best possible experience on their special day. Nikita Thorne, head of strategy at Guides for Brides and host for the evening said: “The trust factor has never been more important to couples. They are taking much longer to research businesses and read reviews for making decisions about

their weddings. These awards hope to make that process easier for couples but also make sure the businesses that do go above and beyond are recognised and rewarded. It’s an honour to be able to celebrate their achievements.”

This years event was also a fundraiser for charity partners, Towards Recovery.

The customer service awards are free to enter for all businesses who advertise on Guides for Brides. These businesses, who complete their entry online, are then shortlisted based on the reviews that couples have left on their listings over the course of the year. Award winners are selected by an independent panel of industry

THE GUIDES FOR BRIDES 2024 WINNERS

Menswear Luciano’s Suits

Mother of The Bride Charisma of Fawley Bridal Wear Queen Bee Bridal

Alison Hargreaves, Founder and Director of Guides for Brides, summed up the evening by saying: “The Guides for Brides Customer Service Awards Night brings together some of the best in the wedding industry to celebrate each other’s success. It is always a really positive evening with great energy, and something that attendees look forward to every year.”

experts who use their knowledge and experience to evaluate competition finalists based on the quantity and quality of reviews left by couples. The judges work independently of eachother.

In order to give small businesses the same chance as larger companies, the size of the business and number of weddings they have undertaken throughout the year are also considered. The Guides for Brides team has no involvement in the selection process of the winners and the judges complete the process independently.

Retailer categories within the 31 are bridalwear, menswear and mother of the bride.

EUROPEAN BRIDAL WEEK AWARDS 2024

A key ingredient in the European Bridal Week success story has to be the industry awards that recognise outstanding businesses. At a glamorous event held at Essen’s Colosseum many hundreds guests –exhibitors and show visitors as well as local dignitaries (including the Mayor of Essen, who presented influencer Kennedy Bingham with the Trailblazer Award) – celebrated in style. What makes this awards programme

score points over others is that retailers themselves cast their votes online (only one per award category) and collectively make the decision as to which suppliers among the 500 exhibitors at the show, are most deserving of that coveted title.

Said Event Director Siegrid Hampsink: “The annual Awards programme, hosted this year by the high-flying Italian presenter Pietro Polidori, is a demonstration of passion, pride, and

EUROPEAN BRIDAL WEEK AWARDS WINNERS 2024

Best Marketing Campaign Supplier Très Chic

Best Customer Service Supplier Très Chic

Best Accessories Supplier Bianco Evento

Best Menswear Supplier Wilvorst

Best Eveningwear/Prom Supplier Christian Koehlert

Best Bridal Supplier Justin Alexander

In addition, the 2024 programme presented two leaders with a lifetime award recognising their contribution to the growth of the industry, Hanns Jürgen Kleemeier and Larry Warshaw. www.europenbridalweek.com

that all-important ethos of making a difference. And being a semi finalist shows the belief that others have in a supplier’s ability to set the trends and deliver quality and style that sets them apart; making it to that last stage is a true achievement and certainly something to celebrate. It shows that particular design houses are special... and different.”

THE WEDDING INDUSTRY AWARDS 2024

TWIA is open to all businesses that are based in England, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales and that service/supply weddings. “It doesn’t matter whether you have done five weddings or 555: TWIA is not a ‘most Votes wins’ Awards. TWIA is all about quality,” say founder Damian Bailey. There are no judging criteria. Judges – and there are 140 of them, judging entrants regionally and nationally in

26 categories - are given free rein to use the information at their disposal to make their own decisions.

TWIA is client-voted - this is all about the user-experience. The organisation provides a link for businesses to send to eligible couples who got married between specific dates (for the 2025 Awards programme that was 02.10.23 and 30.09.24) who will be asked to score you out of ten in seven category-

TWIA BRIDALWEAR RETAILERS REGIONAL WINNERS

In business less than four years

Best Marketing Campaign Supplier Très Chic

Best Customer Service Supplier Très Chic

Best Accessories Supplier Bianco Evento

Best Menswear Supplier Wilvorst

Best Eveningwear/Prom Supplier Christian Koehlert

Best Bridal Supplier Justin Alexander In addition, the 2024 programme presented two leaders with a lifetime award recognising their contribution to the growth of the industry, Hanns Jürgen Kleemeier and Larry Warshaw.

NATIONAL WINNER

Charlotte Elizabeth Bridal

In business more than four years

North West Along Came Eve

East of England Pure Brides

South Central Creatiques Bridal Boutique

Yorkshire and North East Dotty Bridal

East Midlands Dress Me Pretty

West Midlands Tamsin’s Bridal Boutique

South East Aurora Bride

South West Bride by Design

NATIONAL WINNER

Dotty Bridal

www.the-wedding-industry-awards.co.uk

specific areas, and leave comment about your product/services. There are two rounds to TWIA, the first results in regional winners, the second, the national winner. The bridalwear retailers category is divided into those who have been in business for less than four years, and those more than.

BRIDESPEAK

Seriously formal or cool and laid back? There are multiple choices today, especially as the actual nuptials can take place in so many venues. We asked brides where they’d choose when it’s party time

Peter Grimes Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

“What can I say? Our parents are sharing the cost of our wedding - they are so aware what we are up against today with all the financial problems, so sensibly we are going along with what they envisage. And that’s in favour of the traditional – I suppose more the sort of thing they would have had in their day. Pete and I always talked about escaping to a beach, but that is out of the question now. And we are not complaining - we have all those years ahead of us to do exactly what we want, so keeping our parents - generous parents - happy is fine. We’ve already said that we’d retake our vows later.”

Geraldine

“Okay, so yes, we have been to look at a number of venues that are within easy reach for family and friends, and although I never thought I wanted a formal wedding, with table plans, and flowers and speeches, but the more we talk to organisers at venues, the more I think one is better off listening to the experts and taking their advice. The marketing lady at the last place we saw was so understanding and explained in detail how we can have the best of both worlds by making careful choices. So, the drinks reception will be outdoors to set a relaxed style, with tapas-type nibbles and music. Then she suggested a buffet, rather than a sit-down dinner, so our family and friends can mix and mingle. I think this is the route we are going to follow.”

Barbra and Barry

“We have always talked about a wedding on the beach somewhere sunny and although my family are against the idea, we are going to follow that dream and combine a pre-wedding honeymoon, so to speak, with a post holiday ceremony. Just the two of us. If my parents decide to make a party later, great: it’s up to them and can be as formal as they want.”

Josie and Alain

“We are going the absolute traditional way, with all the grandeur that we can afford. I want a wedding that I’ll never forget and we’ll wait till we are in a position to have just that. With Covid we had to delay plans, so waiting a little longer to have what we want is absolutely fine.”

Candy

“To be honest, I think you have to do a lot of homework if you are planning a wedding close to home because there’s so much on offer. My other half fancies a farm type thing, with stalls serving food, and dancing in open fields. All I think about is what happens if the skies open and it buckets down!!! I do feel, though, that we will end up having the service somewhere quiet, locally, with just immediate family and very close friends then the party can be a real party. I don’t want speeches and stuff like that – when friends have gone that route I have found it really boring.”

Dora

“This is a second time round for both of us, and we have three small ones between us who we want to be at the heart of our celebrations. Going formal is just not appropriate for us. We have found a venue that is really relaxed - even down to the way they set tables and serve food, and you can bring in your own decorations, which they’ll put up for you. I have put the little ones in charge of that with the help of my very creative sister. I see our wedding as one good party. We’ll be exchanging vows and rings in a private room, with just the children.”

Michaela and Chris

GET SMART, LOCK UP

need for an additional bridge or hub.

There is no substitute for a quality door lock strong enough to resist all but the most determined attack. However, the need for physical keys means they have to be kept where staff, deliverers and the emergency services can get hold of them, says Chris Partridge

If only there were locks that you could open remotely should you be out at a meeting when the sales assistants get to work, or that vital consignment of gowns arrives. Wait! There are! A wide variety of smart locks are now available that can be unlocked using an app on your smartphone from anywhere with an internet connection. Suddenly, shop owners are back in control even when they are out.

Smart locks can be unlocked in many ways, including entering a code on a number pad, tapping with a contactless card or fob, fingerprint scanning or even voice recognition (so handy when you are carrying a load of shopping), but it is the ability to open the door remotely via wifi that is the crucial feature.

more complex than it seems, however. The lock has to be compatible with the existing hardware on the door, be it a deadlock (the round type of bolt), a mortice (the flat type of bolt) or a nightlatch (the wedge-shaped bolts). The thickness of the door may be a problem, too.

Another less-publicised feature of smart locks is that they use batteries, which must be either replaced or

The August lock employs bankgrade AES 128-bit and TLS encryption to ensure secure communication and a sensor to provide real-time notifications when your door is open or closed.

Tech fans will love the ability to work with Alexa, Google Assistant and Apple HomeKit, enabling voice control (“Alexa, open the door for the photographer”) and integration with other smart home devices such as turning on the hallway lights when the door is opened.

It is designed for easy DIY installation, fitting onto most standard deadbolts without the need for replacing the entire lock.

Schlage Encode Smart WiFi Deadbolt (£330 at Amazon) also offers built-in wifi connectivity, allowing you to lock and unlock your door remotely through the Schlage Home app. It also supports up to 100 access codes so staff or others can gain entry via the keypad.

“Smart locks can be unlocked in may ways. It is the ability to open the door remotely via wifi that is the crucial feature ”

This brings in a whole load of extra security considerations, of course. Can hackers open your door to criminals or terrorists? This is why buying from a reputable brand with the latest encryption technology is essential.

Choosing the right smart lock is

recharged regularly, adding to the massive charging schedule for all the gadgets that rule our lives from smart watches to electric cars. Some smart locks require an additional wifi unit for remote connection.

A highly-regarded smart lock for most applications is the August Wi-Fi Smart Lock (£210 on Amazon), a sleek and compact smart lock with remote access via the August app. It has builtin wifi connectivity, eliminating the

It also features a reassuring built-in alarm, which senses potential security breaches and alerts you. The lock is also equipped with a built-in autolock feature, ensuring your door is always secure.

The Encode lock is also compatible with Alexa and Google Assistant for voice control, and works seamlessly with Ring Alarm systems and Key by Amazon for enhanced security and convenience.

But one of the Schlage lock’s best features is that it can be installed in minutes with just a screwdriver, fitting most standard doors without requiring additional drilling.

The Yale Assure Lock SL with Connected by August (£360 at

Amazon) combines Yale’s trusted hardware with August’s smart lock technology, offering keyless entry, remote access, and voice control capabilities. It supports WiFi connectivity and works with the August app for remote management.

As with August’s own-brand lock, it utilises bank-grade encryption for secure communication and is compatible with most smart home systems. It is nicely designed with a slim, touchscreen keypad for convenient code entry. It is designed for easy retrofit installation, fitting onto most standard doors without requiring additional wiring.

The Lockly Secure Pro Deadbolt Edition (£620 at Amazon) features a unique PIN Genie touchscreen keypad that displays a different keypad layout each time to prevent fingerprint and code detection. It offers Wi-Fi connectivity with the Lockly app for

remote access and management.

The lock utilises advanced encryption algorithms and supports up to 99 programmable codes. It also features a secure mode that prevents access code guessing.

Again, it works with Alexa and Google Assistant for voice control and a wide range of smart home devices and services. It is also designed for easy DIY installation, fitting most standard doors without requiring additional modifications.

Nightlatches, the type of lock that sits on the back of the door with a wedge-shaped bolt that clicks in when you slam the door, are commonly known as Yales for the same reason vacuum cleaners are commonly known as Hoovers. And indeed, Yale offers one of the best units for transforming a humble nightlatch (doesn’t have to be a genuine Yale) into a smart lock, the

Keyless Connected (£80 on Amazon).

The procedure is easy. One extra hole needs to be drilled through the door for the top mounting point of the keypad and the power cord from the battery pack mounted inside. Everything else just slots into place. Any attempt to tamper with the keypad sets off an 80dB siren that is guaranteed to raise the alarm.

The lock can be unlocked with a contactless card, a key fob (one of each included), and by entering a pin, which can be time-limited codes, so you can set up access for a 24-hour period.

One limitation of the system is that the knob has to be physically turned to open the door. You’ll just have to put all that shopping down to get in.

Another drawback is lack of connectivity - to control the lock from afar you will need a wifi module at extra cost.

LOCKLY YALE

SCHLAGE ENCODE PLUS WITH HOME KEYS PHONE

AUGUST WI-FI SMART LOCK

WEDDING TRADER GOES LEGAL

We bring you information of new legalities that could affect your business. Advice from the experts really matters...

RTVs: what they mean for agents and their principals?

As many parts of retail remain under pressure (well-publicised failures over the past nine months including Wilko, Wiggle, The Body Shop, Matches and Ted Baker) the use of RTV – return to vendor – is on the rise. Hannah McCullagh, an associate and Stephen Sidkin, partner in Fox Williams LLP explain

RTV covers the situation in which the supplier (say a brand) and the purchaser (usually a retailer) agree on the return of goods supplied.

Sometimes supplier and the retailer will have agreed at the outset that goods will be supplied on a RTV basis. In this situation usually the retailer will have the right to return unsold inventory. Correspondingly, the supplier will be bound to take back such inventory on the terms set out in the RTV agreement.

For example, if an electronic goods retailer is only able to sell 50 per cent of tablets supplied and an RTV agreement was entered into before the goods were supplied, then, depending on the terms of the RTV agreement, the retailer may be able to return all or part of the unsold stock at the agreed return price.

Often, however, an RTV agreement is not made before the goods are supplied. In this situation it will usually be the case that the retailer contacts the supplier and, depending on the strength of their respective bargaining positions, an agreement is reached to take back stock on specified terms.

Sometimes a brand will be prepared to take back stock in order to preserve any one or more of:

• the relationship with retailer

• the brand reputation – not least to prevent goods being sold through outlets

• its ESG position and to avoid the goods going to landfill

• simply its end-of-season sellthrough figures

In essence the supplier is preserving a degree of control.

Agents and principals: the position

RTVs are good news for the retailer. It has been able to offload stock which it will not be able to sell.

For the supplier the news is not so good. But what about the agent who helped build the relationship with the retailer and procured the order in the first place? In particular, should the agent be subjected to a clawback of the commission which was received in respect of the order?

It depends. If at the outset, goods have been supplied on a RTV basis and the agency agreement is carefully drafted, then it should be possible for

the principal to withhold or clawback commission without being in breach of the agency agreement. If, however, an RTV agreement is not made before the goods are supplied or the agency agreement does not address the situation, this will not be possible.

The reason for the distinction lies in the provisions of the Commercial Agents (Council Directive) Regulations 1993 (the “Regulations”) and correspondingly in the EU Agents Directive.

The Regulations and Directive provide that commission becomes due (and an agent therefore has a right to receive commission) as soon as, and to the extent that, one of the following circumstances occur:

(i) the principal has ‘executed’ the transaction

(ii) the principal should, according to their agreement with the third party, have ‘executed’ the transaction

(iii) the third party (in this example, the stockist) has ‘executed’ the transaction.

So at what point does a principal

or a stockist ‘execute’ their part of the transaction, and how does this translate to the practical reality of the order process?

Unfortunately, neither the Regulations nor the Directive defines ‘execution’. Whilst given the lack of case law, it is likely that ‘execution’ will be deemed to occur at the earliest of:

(i) delivery of goods to the stockist (ii) payment for the goods by the stockist

(iii) the due date for delivery of the goods, where the principal has accepted an order but failed to deliver the goods

Crucially, neither the Regulations nor the Directive prohibits the agency agreement providing something else – in other words stating what is meant by ‘execution’ and addressing the ability of the principal to supply goods on the basis of an RTV agreement.

But where the agency agreement fails to do so, what then? In somewhat complex drafting, both the Regulations and Directive provide the circumstances in which an agent’s entitlement to commission will be extinguished.

Specifically, the legislation provides that an agent will not be

entitled to commission where:

(i) it is established that the contract between the principal and the third party will not be executed

(ii) that fact is due to a reason for which the principal is not to blame.

Unfortunately for the principal this amounts to bad news because:

• by accepting the stockist’s RTV for (by way of example) the sake of preserving goodwill, the principal is not in the situation where the reason for non-execution of the transaction is a reason for which the principal is not to blame

• the Regulations and Directive make clear that any provision in the agency agreement to derogate from this position to the detriment of the agent is void!

Agents and principals – why does this matter?

Whether under the terms of the agency agreement the principal is able to withhold commission or clawback commission which has already been paid matters in a number of respects.

First, in terms of the principal’s overheads – a principal which has not been paid for goods delivered will incur the further cost of commission

unless an RTV agreement was entered into at the outset with the stockist and the agency agreement has been drafted to address the situation.

Second, where the principal has failed to pay commission which was due, the agent will have a claim for ‘back commission’ (that is, commission where an order accepted by the principal has not been fulfilled for a reason for which the principal is to blame). Sometimes it will suit the agent only to claim back commission after the agency agreement has ended.

Third, in most situations where the agency agreement is terminated, the agent will be able to claim either compensation or indemnity in respect of the loss of the agency. Where the agent is able to do so, the agent’s entitlement to back commission will be taken into account in calculating both compensation and indemnity.

Four, and finally, the issues which apply to RTVs also apply to retrospective discounts, which may be given by the supplier to the stockist.

© Fox Williams LLP 2024 agentlaw.co.uk / fashionlaw.co.uk / foxwilliams.com

Green Leases: a tenant’s perspective

Green Leases are entering into a new generation and stepping into the spotlight as investors, occupiers and funders seeking to meet ESG targets, and ultimately drive real change in the property industry. Rebecca Facey, legal director and Matilda Pleydell-Rogers, trainee solicitor at Fox Williams LLP, look at the FAQs from tenants

1 What is a green lease?

A Green Lease is a lease which seeks to impose duties and obligations relating to a building’s sustainability on the parties to the lease, and respond to tenant and investor demands for sustainable buildings. They are generally designed to encourage mutually beneficial behaviours in landlords and tenants of buildings.

There is no hard and fast definition of a green lease and the label can be misleading. Put simply, a lease can be described as a ‘green lease’ if it includes ‘green clauses’, which encourage landlords and/or tenants into environmentally friendly practices with the aim of improving the environmental impact of the building or meeting legal standards.

The extent of green clauses can differ greatly from one lease to another. The clauses vary from ‘light green’, and usually go no further than a statement of intent rather than a binding obligation, to ‘dark green’, which create legally binding obligations often requiring one or more of the parties to incur substantial costs in order to comply.

2. Is a green lease a legal requirement?

No, a green lease is not currently a legal requirement in England and Wales.

However, there may be other factors which require green provisions in leases such as planning policies relating to the specific building or development, and the Minimum Energy Efficiency Standards Regulations 2016 (MEES Regulations), which apply to commercial and industrial buildings in England and Wales.

Subject to certain exceptions, the MEES Regulations currently require a building to have an Energy Performance Certificate rating of ‘E’ or better before it can be legally let.

The MEES Regulations place this obligation on the landlord rather than the tenant but tenants should be alert to the risk of the resulting expenses being passed onto them in their service charge.

3. Who benefits most from a green lease?

This is dependent on the drafting of the specific green lease. Often the clauses are led by investor or lender requirements and this can come from both landlords and tenants.

More often, we see green leases being driven by landlords, but we have also experienced tenants (particularly where they have their own ESG targets) negotiating green lease provisions in order to satisfy

Wedding Trader is working closely with Fox Williams under whose care fashion businesses flourish with everything from securing intellectual property rights to renegotiating agency agreements and commercial leases. (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

their internal board, and external investor and client requirements.

As more companies seek to become B-Corps we are likely to see a swing of the pendulum towards more tenant-driven green lease requirements.

4. Why should I consider entering into a green lease?

A green lease can future-proof against upcoming environmental legislation and issues, preventing challenges further down the line. They can also support internal ESG commitments, values and sustainability goals, as well as external commitments with stakeholders.

Whilst they can also serve to reduce future environmental related costs for tenants, they do often require up-front costs which, if not footed by the landlord, may not be appealing or viable for tenants, particularly those with shorter term leases.

5. Can I push back on green lease

clauses if my landlord is insisting on it?

A landlord cannot change the terms of a lease once it has been completed but if you are negotiating a new lease (including a renewal), resisting these clauses can be challenging and will depend on your bargaining power in the circumstances. Tenants should seek early professional advice when discussing the commercial terms of their lease, and when negotiating the finer detail of any green provisions in the lease itself.

A landlord insisting on green leases might be bound by planning requirements or requirements of their facility agreement with their lender, which may make it more difficult for tenants to negotiate against.

6. Can I insist on green lease provisions if my landlord does not wish to include any?

We encourage an open conversation around green leases and often a satisfactory outcome can be reached. Again, the bargaining strength of the parties will factor

here as there are no statutory provisions enabling tenants to force their landlord’s hand. The larger institutional landlords will be more difficult to sway but they will of course have reputational factors to consider. We can support meaningful discussions between landlords and tenants with regard to including green clauses in their leases.

7. My lease seems to have a few ‘green-ish’ provisions in it. Can I label it a green lease?

The descriptor ‘green’ should be used with caution in light of greenwashing concerns which impact many industries. Regulators, including the Competition and Markets Authority, and other sectorspecific regulators, have recently shifted their focus to clamp down on any claims that are perceived as greenwashing.

© Fox Williams LLP 2024 agentlaw.co.uk fashionlaw.co.uk foxwilliams.com

THE HELENA COTTER TRAINING ACADEMY

aIn-house training days aOnline training courses aLive chat mini courses aBuild your own sales training course to suit your needs CONSULTANCY SERVICES INCLUDE aDirector mentoring aManagement development aEffective team work aOne to one coaching aFREE ongoing business support.

"Helena will always go above and beyond for her clients and is happy to give advice on any situation, however unusual. This, in our view, sets her apart from others within the industry. We cannot recommend her enough.”

Joe Billington, The Bridal Emporium, Exeter

“WOW. Now that was a hectic month or so. We did them all – Harrogate, Essen and Barcelona – and work aside (if you can ever put it to one side), it was a treat being out and about, especially in different environments and seeing how different shows work. I took the team – they drew lots to see who would go where – and I think loyalty levels were raised as a result. Would I do it again? Probably not, because of the expense in money and time, but it was certainly worth being able to say, ‘been there, seen it’. What reactions have others had?”

“Are others finding today’s brides are becoming increasingly difficult? They are certainly opinionated, and their friends who they insist on bringing to first appointments can really rough up the atmosphere. I had a foot stamper in here last week who really upset my small team. Any suggestions on how to deal with this? The temptation, of course, is to ask them to leave, but who can afford to miss out on a possible sale? I certainly can’t.”

“I’d like ideas from others about going the hire route for wedding gowns. My rail of last year’s samples is what I am considering. Love to hear pros and cons.”

“I’ve been in this business for a good long while now and seen so many ups and downs over the years, including, of course, the downs of Covid. I need ideas from others – is it worth laying on extra activities, like trunk shows, or sessions with hair and make -up people? Will that sort of thing really bring in new customers, or do they just regard it as something to do without thinking of shopping?”

“Is selling bridal lingerie a sensible option for garnering additional sales, or is it – as I suspect – just an added nuisance that requires considerable investment, knowledge and real patience? Am short of all three!”

And finally

Ups and downs, ins and outs, but so much to look forward to

“Menswear. I saw so much of it in Essen – very much the trendy stuff – and recognised the window and display value. I do have space in my shop for an additional area of merchandise, but I’m a bit nervous knowing nothing about the sector. Who’s ready to talk to me?”

Got a view you want to share with like-minded others? Want suggestions from industry colleagues? Email me – susi@rogol-goodkind.com – and we’ll get the conversation going. We are for retailers, and about retailers.

MONICA LORETTI

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