Trader WEDDING
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ISSUE SEVEN • AUGUST ’18
Ian Stuart
ON CHANNEL 4’S MOST-WATCHED LIST
EMERGING TALENTS NAMES TO KNOW FROM ACROSS THE POND
The Awards
WHO IS IN THE RUNNING FOR A COVETED TROPHY?
OUTSPOKEN OPINIONS BIG NAMES – POWERFUL VIEWS
Designer-owned bridal stores HOW THE BIG NAMES HELP THEIR STOCKISTS
GO AWAY... HEAD FOR THE BEACH DESTINATION DRESSING – OUR GUIDE TO THE VERY BEST
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TOP US DESIGNERS, P22 Come with us on a journey to the US where we look at their own homegrown talented designers
contents
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TALKING P OINT All the latest headlines and fascinating news stories within the bridal world
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I N MY OP INION Laura Daly says that if you have (or offer) a skill, don’t be afraid to charge for it!
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WORLD TRAVELS : U S Have you considered these superb designers from across the pond?
GU IDE TO B E AC H G OW N S Destination weddings are on the up… Make sure you get these dreamy beach dresses! C HANNE L 4’ S N E W STA R Behind the scenes action as Ian Stuart explains what it was really like filming his new TV show, The Posh Frock Shop
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S IX O F T HE BEST This month we look at gorgeous jump suits
26 HARROGATE : P T II More goodies and tips in advance for the big one in Harrogate in September
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I AM A RETAILE R We get the low-down from designers that have their own flagship retail store, too
STYLE WITH A CAPITAL S DOM Bridals’ latest capture is refreshingly different Spanish designer Sara R THE BRIDAL SEAMSTRESS Sarah Harbour tells us how she finds being ‘Mrs Fixit’ within the industry
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82 A NEW CHAPTER B EST- SE LLE R S We asked a plethora of stores across the Leonie Claire on leaving retail for Luxe Bride country: what’s selling best where you are? 90 GONG SEASON 42 YPOS Who’s up to win what at the Bridal Buyer Is attending local bridal events worth it? Awards – especially Best New Retailer? IN H ER OWN WO R DS Sabina Motasem on her very bright future
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MUST- H AVES Get to know the portfolio of the Nicole Group, represented by Debbie Johnston
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T HE IDE AL C LI E N T Hazel Edwards of Gillian Roberts talks about knowing the right client for your business
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GO ING L EGAL Suzanne Lurie explains about T&Cs
MIKAELLA
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AUGUST 2018 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 7
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Looking for stockists at this exciting time.
Sale price range ÂŁ349- ÂŁ899
For more information contact: James McKenna T: 07551 006 995 jamesmckenna@rachelallan.com Kirsty Voce T: 01765 570 040 kirstyvoce@rachelallan.com
www.rachelallan.com
CO NTACT US
Ed’s Letter
Editor Susi Rogol susi@meanttobemedia.com
There are lots of great reads over the next 100+ pages, so pop this latest issue of Trader into your bag so it’s always close at hand to dip in and out when you have the chance! We’ve got news, the views, and our pick from the latest collections including great-looking gowns that are perfect for destination weddings. Our buying survey shows the difference in brides’ tastes, shopping habits and budgets across the country as well as the shared lack of demand for Meghan replicas. We’ll take you to the US to discover the brilliant emerging design talents, to Spain for a fabulous occasionwear label, and to Italy, for a collection of collections. And we’ve gone to top British designers who also have their own-name shops to see the effect it has on their stockists. We liked what we heard! As well as all this, we also tracked down more Harrogate exhibitors to see what they have in store. We’ve been busy, so that you will be, too. Enjoy the issue – and the sunshine, of course! EDITOR SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND
TEAM TALK Tom Harrod Production Editor “I must say, I thought Creatiques’ tip about business cards was a really clever touch in this month’s YPOS.” (p42)
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Andy Allen Art Director “I’m always interested to see who’s in the running to win what, so I enjoyed reading our Awards piece this month.” (p90)
Laura Lismore Fashion Sales Executive “‘The Bridal Seamstress’ showed a different perspective to the process. Sew fascinating! (Sorry…!)” (p78)
CONTRIBUTORS Stephanie Allin, Rebecca Baddeley, Sarah Barratt, Hannah Beahan, Caroline Castigliano, Leonie Claire, Laura Daly, Hazel Edwards, David Fielden, Claire Gould, Sarah Harbour, Fross Hockley, Stephanie Hanks, Maria Kelly, Suzanne Lurie, Sabina Ali, Sharon McPherson, Suzanne Neville, Andrew Pearce, Rob Pearce, Ellie Sanderson, Sanyukta Shrestha, Sian Smylie, Ian Stuart, Alison Tinlin, Lauren Wade
Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com
Advertising Sales Consultant Nardene Smith nardene@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07957 372276
Fashion Sales Executive Laura Lismore laura@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07903 858078
Sales Executive Martha Cooke (maternity leave) martha@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07877 449122
ON CHANNEL 4’S MOST-WATCHED LIST
EMERGING TALENTS NAMES TO KNOW FROM ACROSS THE POND
The Awards
Nardene Smith Advertising Sales Consultant “Seeing the diverse range of best-selling gowns and materials from boutiques all around the country was great.” (p38)
ISSUE SEVEN • AUGUST ‘18
Ian Stuart
Production Editor Tom Harrod tom@meanttobemedia.com
GO AWAY... HEAD FOR THE BEACH DESTINATION DRESSING – OUR GUIDE TO THE VERY BEST
WHO IS IN THE RUNNING FOR A COVETED TROPHY
OUTSPOKEN OPINIONS BIG NAMES POWERFUL VIEWS
Designer-owned bridal stores HOW THE BIG NAMES HELP THEIR STOCKISTS
Cover image: Wilderly
@WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader
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Wedding Trader magazine is distributed to hundreds of the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is a new trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.
MEANT TO BE MEDIA Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 68a Oldham Road, Manchester M4 5EE. Tel: 0161 236 6712 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish: F IND YOUR
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AUGUST 2018 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 9
W W W. A L L U R E B R I D A L S . C O M
Allure Launch Spring 2019 Collections at The Majestic Hotel September 9,10,11 Please contact Helen or Billy on 01707643633 to book your Fashion Show Appointments at 10/12/2/4 each day.
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Girl talk Bridesmaids are known to be demanding – and why not, they are on show as well on their best-friend’s big day. Brands like True Bride have a tremendous choice for the girls (as well as the brides themselves and their mums) with 90 colours in chiffon and satin, 20 in charmeuse, 80+ in taffeta, as well as a whole rainbow in tulle, lace and crepe on offer. The style range, too, is exceptional giving maids of every height, size and colouring something they will love. This Luna gown in one of our favourites, combining every on-trend feature. +44 (0)1273 728637 truebride.co.uk
TA L K I N G POINT LUNA
Keep up-to-date with the latest news in the wedding world, right here!
THE GRAND BALL Freya Rose, who continues to innovate and amaze every season, has come up with a very different form of decoration. In the past, she’s dressed heels with sparkle and mother of pearl. This time around, however, she’s added a shimmer Swarovski crystal sphere beneath the arch of her newest, strappiest metallic statement pieces called Halo, and a court shoe, Aurora, with towering heels. The RRP is £395, but the effect is a million dollars. +44 (0)845 371 4466 freyarose.com A U G U S T 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 13
WOW WITH POW! Our Six of the Best feature in this issue, pages 66-68, focuses on pant suits and all-in-ones. This interpretation by Nicole Spose’s Alessandra Rinaudo is called Arianna. It has a V-neck cady top, wide silky chiffon trousers, a belt with a giant
B R I DA LBAY G O ES PUB L I C That’s right, the wait is over! Retailers can open their store accounts from 11 July, then, on 1 August, BridalBay – the brainchild of former retailer Lucy Ball, and first reported in Wedding Trader – will launch to the great bridal public. In the first phase, boutiques will be able to list their sample dresses for sale on the custom-built BridalBay platform, choosing a simple listing or an auction listing, adding as much detail and as many pictures as wanted. You can also show accessories and link listings to make it easy for a bride to purchase multiple items. Then – and this is the great bit – you use your listing-specific URL to share your product range with your followers, using the power of social media and digital marketing to sell your stock. Got a customer? Box up their order and away you go! Happy retailer, happy bride. The customer will then provide you with a star rating – the more stars you collect, the better it gets. For top selling retailers, BridalBay will be offering prizes – anything from free listings to commission-free months to preferential rates. And there’s more to come, with an option for designers and service providers to get on board, followed by a directory. To find out more about this venture, email Lucy at hello@bridalbay.co.uk.
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bow made in refined silk duchess. It is described by the makers as minimal, but to us it is maximal in every sense of the word. Price on application. +44 7508 724 671 nicolespose.it/en
LIZABELLA
The first edition of Harrogate Fashion Week will be staged 29-30 July, as reported last month. We can now confirm that joining the line up of top-notch brands will be a number of occasionwear labels, including the fabulous Sara R (read about this great Spanish label on page 74), Mooshki and Gil Harvey, Lizabella, Cassandra and Gabriella Sanchez. It is certainly a show worth seeing and there’s still time to preregister and beat the queues when you arrive. harrogatefashionweek.com
GILL HARVEY
G E T READY TO GO
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LR OCCASIONS
CASUAL CHIQUE
The welldressed guest Belgian occasionwear expert Linea Raffaelli has come up trumps with two new collections. Raffaelli Casual Chique is the brand’s deluxe line, eye-catching, trend-setting but with a casual flamboyance that will take the wearer from intimate
dinner party to grand opening. There are six distinct colour groups, great details, and those all-important matching accessories that give Linea a real edge. LR Occasions is the signature label, designed with a focus on fashion-forward
NEW CO N S U M E R W ED D I N G SHOWS Event organizer Bridelux has announced that it is to launch a number of specialist luxury shows in response to the burgeoning Asian, Same Sex and Destination weddings markets. The Asian Atelier will take place at London’s Mayfair Hotel, 6-7 October, and feature the finest Asian artisans alongside prestigious brands from the western wedding industry. The UK’s first luxury LGBTQ wedding show entitled Pridelux Atelier, will be staged at the Shangri La Hotel, 22-23 March 2019; and the Mayfair Hotel will host the third annual Bridelux Destination show, scheduled for 6-7 April 2019, which will include specialist wedding planners and destination venues, with experts on hand advising couples who plan to tie the knot overseas. Visit bridelux.com for more information.
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Mums. Great fabrics, and some fun and whacky pieces alongside the elegant outfits. Lengths can be adjusted as needed/ wanted and larger sizes are catered for – music to a retailer’s ears! linearaffaelli.be
ronaldjoyce.com N U N Z I ATA
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In my opinion Being able to alter a dress to provide the perfect fit is core to the service we retailers offer, but it is essential that brides appreciate that – and pay for it. Don’t undersell yourself, is the message from Laura Daly
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illy season is back. It’s that part of the year where we conveniently forget around November-time, only to find that it comes around to bite us on the backside sometime in May. And it keeps nipping at our derrières until at least the end of September. Anyone who offers a full service – including fittings – will know what I mean. This is the time of year when our kid gloves need to be at their softest, our diplomacy skills on world peace-level and our ability to magic ten inches into the hip of a fishtail gown is at its absolute best. For me in my salon, offering and conducting top-notch gown fittings in-house is of paramount importance; it’s what helps set us apart from the competition and it goes a long way to cementing life-long bonds with our valued customers. However, it’s also what can cause us bridal shop owners the most problems; heaven forbid if the dress doesn’t fit at the first attempt, and customer expectations haven’t been met from the get-go… We all know where that can lead! Our seamstresses charge for the work they carry out, and our brides are happy to pay. They are happy because we drum it into them that alterations will have to be paid for; they understand that this lady with the magic fingers is going to work
for hours – if not days – to fulfil her customers’ needs; and they understand this because we explain it to them. The gown that will, if only for one day, make a bride feel like the most beautiful girl in the world is worth spending time and money on. It is everyone’s goal to have a happy bride. The skills required to fit and alter a bridal gown are not something that can be learned overnight; they are acquired and fine-tuned over many wedding seasons. Add in bespoke amendments – something that
The skills required to fit and alter a bridal gown are not something that can be learned overnight requires proper dressmaking and pattern-cutting skills as well, and we are talking about some seriously complicated work, here. All this skill comes at a cost, and someone somewhere has to pay for it - if you employ a seamstress, she will need paying. If you are able to do the alts yourself, then you need paying. I firmly believe that the customer (unless she’s been informed and educated beforehand) won’t understand the complexity of the work involved. Maybe she’ll think she’s
spent enough already and that any amendments should be covered by the price of the gown. Almost certainly she’ll have no innate appreciation of the time and skill involved in shaping her dream dress to fit like a glove. I guess it’s easy to undervalue a service that we ourselves provide, but don’t be embarrassed to charge for your time and knowledge. I totally get the fact that for a one-man band shop owner (who also does their own alterations) the temptation to do this for free to swing the sale is huge. But seriously, is there any other profession on the planet that would require you to work for nothing? None of us have a magic wand in the back room that will do the work for us, so why undervalue ourselves and give away such an important part of our business without a second thought? Ladies, if you are blessed with ‘sewing hands’ then make sure you profit from your skills – don’t chuck it all in with the sale of a gown. Once goods or a service are handed out for free, they no longer have a value to the customer, and it just helps perpetuate the myth that shops that do charge are ripping brides off. Make a stand, put a value on your time – you’re worth it! What are your thoughts on this? Email susi@meanttobemedia.com and read about the work of The Bridal Seamstress, on page 78.
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US DESIGNERS The new young talents you need to know Discovering an emerging ALEXANDRA GRECCO “I design label is always a joy if you for the can see it sit alongside your woman who appreciates existing favourites and a classic enticing new customers into silhouette, but also your boutique. We crossed has a bit of whimsy in the pond to take a look at the her,” says young stars of bridal who Alexandra Grecco, who could make a difference to launched her your business bridal line in 2014, when she saw an
T
he US boasts some of the finest names in luxury bridal design, with names like Reem Acra, Monique Lhuillier, Vera Wang, Austin Scarlett, Romona Kaveza, Claire Pettibone and Angel Sanchez in its arsenal. And that’s just the icing on the very beautiful wedding cake; these are longestablished names who dictate trends and capture column inches the world over. But following in their footsteps and making their own highly original impression on the market is a whole breed of young talents who are fastcreating a name for themselves and a demand for their collections.
opportunity in the market to create ethereal gowns for the less-traditional bride. Her high-quality fabrics and intricate hand-embroidery cater to the bride who appreciates clean lines, but is not afraid to stray from traditional bridal fashion. Alexandra’s designs are continually evolving; expect to see more of her signature silk pieces paired with bold, yet playful laser-cut embroidery. Soft, unexpected touches of colour add subtle femininity to more daring silhouettes. Prices range from $2,000-$6,000, with separates and veils starting at $800 info@alexandragrecco.com alexandragrecco.com
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DESIREE HARTSOCK Established in 2017 – so a newer-thannew label – this collection is designed by Desiree Siegfried, who has worked alongside brides for close to a decade as a stylist for various bridal salons, to help them find their dream wedding gown. The small but beautifully composed ‘Heirloom’ collection for autumn/ winter 2019 blends artistic prowess with vintage details and includes five plus-size styles. The soft silhouettes and intricate details merge elegant and nomadic elements together in Chantilly and vintage-inspired laces,
silk chiffons and crepe. Silver and metallic tones make an appearance within the collection to offer elegance and nostalgia. There are five plus-size styles in the range, which will delight Desiree Hartsock fans. Prices range from $1,800-$2,800 sarah@desireehartsock.com desireehartsock.com
EDITH ÉLAN
This Chicago-based bridalwear brand is spearheaded by the design duo Gretchen Anderson and Lourdes Castañeda, who first met in design school. After a few years of working in the fashion industry, they launched their own label in 2014. The designs are a harmonious blend of their personal aesthetics: Gretchen’s vintage charm with Lourdes’s modern sophistication.
Each made-to-order gown is handcrafted with a keen attention to detail. The 2019 collection will debut during October’s New York Bridal Fashion Week. The gowns, in varying silhouettes, will feature dotted jacquards, pearl-embellished tulles, swiss dot netting and hand-beaded appliqués - elements which reflect the inspiration: Japanese artist Yukimi Imai’s contemporary pointillism. The creative twosome explains their approach: “Edith Élan is strength. She is style. She is vivacity. She is energy. She’s an embodiment of who we are as a brand, and a reflection of our brides. She was created for the bride with élan.” Prices start at $2,100 info@edith-elan.com edith-elan.com
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GRACY ACCAD Staying true to her love of textiles, textures, and refined embellishment, this fashion alchemist blends simplicity and chicness, characterising her bride as ‘modern romantic’. Inspired by ephemeral beauty and her first art – ballet – Gracy creates a whimsical collection centered around nuance and detail and bringing to mind the elegance of haute couture with a downtown edge, using only the finest fabrications and
sewing techniques. Since 2013, this New York-based designer has been dressing private clients, but debuted to the world during New York Fashion Week last autumn. The media has said of her: “It’s time to put Gracy Accad on your radar... She’s definitely a name to know.” Prices range from $3,700-$13,200 mindy@group868.com gracyaccad.com
MADELEINE FIG Launched in 2013 with an amazingly different approach and a design ethos with a very special personality, this collection is the perfect blend of timeless classicism with a sharp, modern edge. Its strengths stand out in every piece – the meticulous attention to detail, the use of texture, the clean lines and impeccably fitted bodices. The new collection incorporates delicate laces, textured silks, embellished linens, sleek satins and luxe crepes with meticulous hand detailing and soft metallic finishes. And everything is made in house, in Los Angeles. Prices start at $3,800 jannina@madeleinefig.com madeleinefig.com 24 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ A U G U S T 2 0 1 8
www.morilee.co.uk
L I B E RT Y
SH OW B US I N ESS Come September, Harrogate will see an influx of international brands unveiling their 2019 collections to an audience of thousands. Northern Europe’s most important trade event promises some treats DYNASTY LONDON Now with bridal, occasionwear, MOB, plus-size and prom on offer from this long-established and highly-successful house, we reckon Dynasty will be a major player at Harrogate. Featured across the various ranges is the signature hand beadwork the company is known for and the new collections for 2019 include some sensational demi couture pieces at seriously great prices. Mikado, jacquards, laces and satins can be found across the ranges. RRP £275-£599 +44 (0)208 736 0200 dynasty.london Majestic Hotel
NICOLA ANNE BRIDAL Beautiful Spirit is the name of the new collection from this talented designer and in it she brings together “elegance and romance that are designed with free spirit and individuality”. French laces and encrusted beaded tulles feature through the range and every gown is hand cut, produced and finished by Nicola’s team of experts. Good news is that bespoke sizing is available, which is a bonus. RRP £1,106-£1,946 +44 (0)1455 250151 nicolaanne.com Stand Q15
Harrogate need-to-knows Visit theharrogatebridalshow.co.uk to register now and for details of the show-stopping Sunday and Monday runway performances, the BBSA party and, of course, the Bridal Buyer Awards. Info on travel and accommodation can be found on the website, too. 26 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ A U G U S T 2 0 1 8
ETERNITY BRIDE There are some cracking collections in this portfolio with personality, including the edgy Art Couture, and red carpet-glam Adrianna Papell Platinum. The newest look is classic and clean, with crisp silhouettes. Ballgowns are key for 2019, as are neckline details and dramatic backs. Fabrics include jersey, mikado and satin. RRP £800-£2,000 +44 (0)8707 707670 eternitybridal.co.uk Stand C25
MASCARA This is dynamite! Exotic, dazzling and daring… Amazing silhouettes that hug every curve, with legs and backs on show. There’s a brilliant choice of fabrics – jersey, chiffon, satin, tulle and oversized sequins – in berry and natural forest tones. Every dress here is a surprise – and a sheer delight. RRP £129-£299 + 44 208 965 1522 mascaracollection.com C22 & C44
Stand xxx
LADYBIRD If size matters then Holland’s Ladybird scoops up the gongs, with 12 collections. Nudes, soft pinks and rich ivory feature, all brought to life with beaded embellishments and delicate laces. Look out for the new Ladybird Transparent gowns, which have removable nude linings; Ladybird Royal where the cut is chic and sharp; and Ladybird Bohemian, which has a defined personality that’s perfect for informal and destination weddings. RRP £500-£2,000 +44 (0)1423 876 380 ladybird.nl Stand M22/23
The venue The Chicago Bridal Market is housed in the magnificent Merchandise Mart (known as theMART), a historical building built in the 1930s. Art Deco in style, theMART is the world’s largest commercial building. It has recently benefitted from a major renovation
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PHIL COLLINS BRIDAL Luxurious fabrics and impeccable detailing coupled with a new improved fit will hit the high notes in 2019. With head designer Jennifer Gibb’s infectious love of textiles, you can expect to see more lace, more intricate hand beading and something different. RRP £625- £1,150 +44 (0)1823 672641 philcollinsbridal.co.uk St George Hotel
AMANDA WYATT & LINZI JAY BRIDESMAIDS A veritable bouquet of bridesmaid dresses introduces beautiful floral designs in soft chiffon and satin with bold and intricate botanical patterns. In both ranges there are supremely flattering silhouettes, with keyhole backs, dropped sleeves and off-the-shoulder features. Daring splits and pretty frills also feature. Amanda Wyatt RRP from £237 for adult gowns, and £170 for teens and flowergirls. +44 (0)333 2346420 amandawyatt.com Linzi Jay RRP from £275 +44 (0)1254 665104 linzijay.com Stand Q2
JUPON POIRIER When it comes to accessories, you name it and this company has it. Fabulous lingerie (including some pretty sexy pieces), headdresses and jewellery, hosiery, gloves, veils, detachable trains – the list is never-ending and the content always spot on. New, and a smash hit in both Barcelona and Düsseldorf, are brightly coloured head pieces, including tiaras, clips and vines, often with matching jewellery. With bold flower detailing, these are a treat, and quite different to the more traditional offerings on the market. The latest veils are beautifully trimmed and detailed and there are lace tops – short sleeved, long sleeved, low neck, high neck – great to add another dimension to a strapless gown, or simple vest top. +44 (0)1753 622 922 jupon.com Stand B40 28 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ A U G U S T 2 0 1 8
MIRANDA TEMPLETON Botanic influences feature strongly here with leaf and flower motifs continuing to dominate. A distinct, yet subtle nod to Greek and balletic inspiration is also becoming apparent. Heritage gold and rose gold are now firmly established as base metal options alongside ever-popular silver. Expect to see accent shades of white opal and blush pink – the perfect accompaniment to the trend in gowns. According to the brand, while vines still lead in the style stakes, the resurgence of the tiara is beginning to exert its influence and pins are rising in popularity. RRP £70.00 to £180.00 +44 (0)796 222 6543 mirandatempleton.co.uk Stand KS3
KENNETH WINSTON The focus here for the new season is ‘difference’, with unique laces, beadwork and embellishments, often associated with other areas of fashion, incorporated into bridal. The result is fabulous, and the ‘difference’ is apparent, while the collection retains all the elements that make a wedding gown unique. There are lots of fit and flares and a handful of playful ballgowns; fabrics are soft, and there are great blush tones. The other labels in the portfolio, including Ella Rosa, are wonderfully feminine. RRP £1150 - £2,350 +44 (0)1765 530282 kennethwinston.com Stand B2
PARADOX LONDON Paradox is bringing stunning embellishments to the forefront in its new collection – just what the fashionforward bride wants. There are iridescent crystal trims, new glitter materials that are not only resistant to shedding, but are unbelievably soft, and peep-toe shoes dressed with bows. All those good looks feature for 2019, coupled with amazing comfort. RRP £35-£99 +44 (0) 20 8885 8000 pinkparadoxshoes.com Stand C64
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P H I L C O L L I N S B R I DA L WWW.PHILCOLLINSB R IDAL . C O. UK
I AM A R E TAI L E R In recent issues we’ve heard from suppliers who said what they would do if they were in retail. Now it’s the designers’ turn, who have their own stores! I AN STUART When and why? June 2014. We wanted to build the brand and have a London flagship base where we could experiment with designs and have a better understanding of what brides and their mothers needs are, so that this feedback can help us to design and create better collections for our wholesale customers. Has there been a change in the number of retailers stocking your collection since then? We’ve lost some customers, gained others. But I don’t think this is anything to do with us having our own shop! Do clients who visit your shop have
our boutique. We offer a one-to-one different ideas/wants to those who consultation service with fittings and visit a stockist of yours? Yes, we mainly create bespoke custom all alterations done in store. gowns with changes for our clients. Do you redirect brides to a stockist closest to them? Is the collection/service you offer Yes we do! We have many customers different? who use our London store to try From the very beginning, we have dresses on, knowing that they will marked up all of our gowns so that purchase the gown elsewhere, and they are £200-£300 higher than the same dress from one of our stockists. I am happy when one of my retailers gets a sale from us. I would like to Our stockists know this, and that is point out that my retailers have also why it works so well. We have some sent brides and mothers to me, so we exclusive styles only available in actually help each other. This proves that you can be a designer store and My retailers send brides to also have a good relationship with me – we help each other. You your wholesale customers!
can be a designer store and have a good relationship with your wholesale customers!
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How do you promote your stockists? Through magazine advertising, social media, designer days and now through our TV show!
STEPHANIE ALLIN When and why? We opened our London shop in 2009. We needed to have a flagship showroom to enhance the brand, to ensure that Stephanie Allin was not seen as a ‘provincial’ offer only, and to facilitate quick responses to things like rush call ins for photoshoots. Has there been a change in the number of retailers stocking your collection since then? We lost some London stockists who felt they were too close to compete with our Chiltern Street premises, but those who were a little further away benefitted from the enhanced company profile. Do clients who visit your shop have
different ideas/wants to those who visit a stockist of yours? They appreciate being able to make special appointments with the designer for bespoke commissions, or simply have that level of personal guidance and styling advice. Is the collection/service you offer different? We offer a full made-to-measure service in our own shops in London and Mumbles. Do you redirect brides to a stockist closest to them? Yes, we do. How do you promote your stockists? We support them on the website, through training events, designer days, trunk shows, and social media co-ordination.
DAVID FIELDEN When and why? We closed our retail operation after 20 years, and then reopened it again ten years ago due to pressure from press and buyers to have a flagship store. We also wanted to show the full 100-piece collection we design every year in one large space (our Chelsea showroom is 5,000 sq ft) as any one stockist can only carry a small fraction of this.
specially designed by them to which we suggest they go to a dressmaker. We allow change of fabric or addition of sleeve but within the design ethos of David Fielden. Is the collection/service you offer different? Small design changes are allowed. We don’t encourage stockists to do this (it can get lost in translation when reorders are placed). We do allow split sizing and change of fabrics, though.
Do you redirect brides to a stockist closest to them? We are open as a ‘showroom’ only Monday to Friday 10am to 5pm. Because it seems to be that most brides wish to visit on a Saturday or Sunday, we always direct them to our stockists. How do you promote your stockists? We promote through our website and via social media platforms, as well as support with designer days.
Has there been a change in the number of retailers stocking your collection since then? Yes, our stockist network has increased. Do clients who visit your shop have different ideas/wants to those who visit a stockist of yours? Yes, sometimes. They think by coming to a designer direct they either get a discounted price – which we don’t entertain, of course – or have a dress
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SU Z ANNE NEVI LLE When and why? 15 years ago. We also make a lot of couture evening wear and mother of the bride, which we really needed a showcase for. Has there been a change in the number of retailers stocking your collection since then? There has been a gradual organic increase in stockists over the years due to the success of the gowns, as well as our fabulous brand profile. Do clients who visit your shop have different ideas/wants to those who visit a stockist of yours? Yes, the brides are usually very bespoke. They request nonstandard gowns and often travel to us from overseas. Is the collection/service you offer different? Our service is totally different, because we only offer couture with full made-to-measure and toile. There are
also more fittings involved in this process . We also have a lot of different stock, some at a higher price point. Do you redirect brides to a stockist closest to them? We always send brides to stockists if they have been there first, especially if they want a standard service. The brides regularly go back to their local stockist having seen the full collection in Knightsbridge. How do you promote your stockists? Our stockists are very important to us. We provide extensive images and social media material; we post their real brides on our highly-successful Instagram; we help them with PR and marketing when asked as we have our own in-house marketing team. Our website has every stockist listed; we provide links to them wherever possible; we accommodate their special requests and turn around quick wholesale orders with no surcharge. We listen to them and take on board any issues they may have. We also try to make their annual buying experience as pleasant, positive, professional and productive as possible. đ&#x;˜€đ&#x;˜€
SANYUKTA SH REST HA When and why? I opened Behuli in Fulham in 2013 as our first flagship store. I knew that seeing my beautiful brides in dresses I created would keep me motivated and inspired. Has there been a change in the number of retailers stocking your collection since then? Yes, we narrowed down our choices so that we had more quality stockists than quantity, and a wider range of styles rather than mass production of one single dress.
service , whereas our stockists carry our regular collection that provides them with repeat business.
enhanced fabrics can produce. Younger skin is a lot more sensitive, so our flower girl collection is popular.
Is the collection/service you offer different? Behuli provides speciality fabrics; we create all our materials from organic and eco-friendly fibre – bamboo, hemp silk and organic cotton – which help protect the skin and prevent allergies that other chemically-
Do you redirect brides to a stockist closest to them? Yes – in the UK, the Netherlands, Germany and Ireland.
Do clients who visit your shop have different ideas/wants to those who visit a stockist of yours? Yes, mostly the brides who visit Behuli have their sights set on a bespoke 34 ♌ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♌ A U G U S T 2 0 1 8
How do you promote your stockists? Through recommendation, social media and advertising.
CAROLI NE CAST I G LI AN O When and why? I opened my first store in 1991 in Esher, Surrey, because I enjoy the special relationship the designer has to the bride. Has there been a change in the number of retailers stocking your collection since then? When I began I only allowed brides to order their gown from a Caroline Castigliano store… I now have over 50 independent stockists worldwide.
around £2,000 higher than our independents and we mainly stock gowns that are exclusive to the store. We do not want to compete with our stockists; we want the Knightsbridge store to enhance the status of the brand and help our stockists to be more successful. The Knightsbridge store is appointment-only.
How do you promote your stockists? All our stockists have their own individual page on our website showing the gowns they carry from the Castigliano collection and that Do you carry any other labels? Do clients who visit your shop have page links through to their website. different ideas/wants to those who Headpieces/jewellery by Marie Elena. We promote all our stockists on social visit a stockist of yours? media and PPC when we are running Brides who visit the Knightsbridge a trunk show with them. We work with Do you redirect brides to a stockist flagship store are looking for a bespoke closest to them – sometimes/always? magazines and glossy titles to promote gown, spending over £5,000. the brand and our stockists. All We always direct brides to their nearest stockist unless they are having stockists are offered both trunk shows Is the collection/service you offer and training. Developing and helping a bespoke gown that would not be different? available at a stockist store and would our stockists is at the forefront of our The flagship store prices start at minds at all times. be a higher price point.
SARAH BAR RAT T – LY N AS HWORTH When and why? We wanted to take the label to the next level, so in May we opened the doors to our very first stand-alone boutique showroom on the Duchy of Lancaster Estate in Staffordshire. The space is a beautiful showcase for the brand and reflects everything about the Lyn Ashworth aesthetic. We believe opening a shop will give bigger presence and awareness for the brand within the marketplace, which will help all our amazing stockists nationwide. Has there been a change in the number of retailers stocking your collection since then? Yes! We’ve only just opened, but interest is really good, with stockists aware that we are growing and investing in the label.
Do clients who visit your shop have different ideas/wants to those who visit a stockist of yours? Part of the reason we wanted to open the shop is to cater to the bespoke bride who might want something created from scratch, or inspired from past collections. Is the collection/service you offer different? We stock all past and current collections under one roof, so there is a huge number of dresses for brides to choose from. In addition, they have direct access to myself and my seamstresses, where we can offer a quality, bespoke service.
Do you redirect brides to a stockist closest to them? Yes, this is paramount to everything we do. We always aim to send a bride to the most convenient stockist and/or location to them. How do you promote your stockists? We’re promoting the brand to brides with a strategic PR and marketing campaign, social media and events – the aim being to drive awareness which, in turn, benefits all stockists.
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Enzoani
Bridal is ready for something new... a sparkling new trade show arrives in 2019
Designed for tomorrow NEC BIRMINGHAM
1 2 - 1 4 M AY 2 0 1 9 U K B R I D A LW E E K . C O . U K
M E D I A PA R T N E R S LOV E OUR
F I ND YOUR
DREAM DRESS
I N DEMA N D OUR BEST SELLERS To do a cross-country comparison, we asked a number of retailers what their brides were asking for... and what they were buying Hannah Beahan BEA’S BRIDAL STUDIO Harbury, Warwickshire Current top seller Justin Alexander Sweetheart 6155 (in sand) Silhouettes most in demand Definitely slim fits – soft fishtails or slim A-lines Fabrics and colours selling best Lace in sand/pearl colours. Long or short? Almost always long Neckline? Sweetheart neckline, usually with straps Are most of your brides buying accessories from you? Yes, we sell the accessories at the same time as the dress Has there been a Meghan effect? Not yet… but I am sure it will come soon! Kate’s dress had a huge impact on our stock choices and customer orders How many appointments per bride is the usual today? One to two, depending on whether there are any favourites elsewhere or if they need to bring someone else along Labels carried Art Couture, Amanda Wyatt, Ellis, Eternity, Sincerity, Sweetheart; Dessy and Jasmine for bridesmaids Average price of gowns sold in 2018 £1,200
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OPUS COUTURE
THE CONFETTI BOX BEA’S BRIDAL STUDIO TILLY TROTTER’S BRIDES MiliMili BRIDE TO BE FROSS WEDDING COLLECTIONS
Stephanie Hanks BRIDE TO BE Reading, Berkshire Current top seller Stella York 6514 Silhouettes most in demand Fit-and-flare Fabrics and colours selling best Crepe and soft tulle Long or short? Long Neckline? Sweetheart and deep V Are most of your brides buying accessories from you? Veils, yes Has there been a Meghan effect? None really – we were seeing demand for plain dresses increase before the wedding, though How many appointments per bride is the usual today? Two to three Labels carried Essense, Martina Liana, Mori Lee, Ronald Joyce, Sincerity, Stella York Average price of gowns sold in 2018 £1,300
Maria Kelly THE CONFETTI BOX Eccles, Manchester Current top seller Brenda by Rebecca Ingram Silhouettes most in demand Fishtail Fabrics and colours selling best Lace and ivory – but with blush a very close second for best colour Long or short? Long Neckline? Sweetheart Are most of your brides buying accessories from you? 95 per cent Has there been a Meghan effect? There has not been one email or phone call over that style of gown; while in comparison, when Kate Middleton got married, the phone never stopped ringing for that style! How many appointments per bride is the usual today? Two Labels carried Maggie Sottero, Mori Lee, Rebecca Ingram, Ronald Joyce and Sottero Midgley, Sincerity, Stella York Average price of gowns sold in 2018 £1,800 A U G U S T 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 39
Fross Hockley FROSS WEDDING COLLECTIONS Uckfield, Sussex Current top seller 6500 by Stella York Silhouettes most in demand Fitted, fit-and-flare Fabrics and colours selling best Lace, crepe, mikado silk Long or short? Long Neckline? Illusion, sweetheart Are most of your brides buying accessories from you? Yes, more so recently Has there been a Meghan effect? Not really, it doesn’t seem to have influenced brides How many appointments per bride is the usual today? 1-2 Labels carried Ashley & Justin, Justin Alexander, Luna Novias, Rosa Clara Couture, Stella York Average price of gowns sold in 2018 £1,600
Lauren Wade MiliMili Colchester, Essex Current top seller Payton by Charlie Brear Silhouettes most in demand Our brides definitely prefer a slinkier silhouette, so that could be a fishtail, column or mermaid. We struggle with the fuller skirts – our brides prefer something that is sexy as opposed to a princess style Fabrics and colours selling best Ivory is the most popular colour by far, followed by latte and mocha. Crepe is a firm favourite for fabrics, especially the luxe crepe used by Charlie Brear Long or short? Long Neckline? V, with thin straps Are most of your brides buying accessories from you? Most of our brides leave us having bought a veil.
Has there been a Meghan effect? The first week after the wedding every single bride we saw wanted to try on the Larissa Dress by Enzoani, which is plain with a very long train! How many appointments per bride is the usual today? Two, before they make that buying decision Labels carried Blue by Enzoani, Charlie Brear, Eliza Jane Howell, Enzoani, Ian Stuart, Rosa Clara Average price of gowns sold in 2018 £1,900
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Sian Smylie TILLY TROTTER’S BRIDES Leamington Spa, Warwickshire Current top seller Drusila by Pronovias Silhouettes most in demand Fitted, fit-and-flare Fabrics and colours selling best Lace and crepe, and ivory Long or short? Long Neckline? Higher necklines and lower backs or back detailing. Bateau and Bardot necklines are popular at the moment Are most of your brides buying accessories from you? A veil, at least! We host a successful accessories event twice a year Has there been a Meghan effect? Zilch! Big surprise for us – we’d re-merchandised our ‘crepe rail’ especially in anticipation!
How many appointments per bride is the usual? Two, but the brides we’ve seen recently have been much more decisive and saying ‘yes’ on the first appointment. Labels carried Atelier Pronovias, Charlie Brear, Galia Lahav ‘Gala Collection’, Martina Liana, Pronovias, Stella York , Wtoo by Watters, Zetterberg Couture Average price of gowns sold in 2018 £2,000+
Sharon McPherson OPUS COUTURE West Kilbride, Scotland Current top seller Mckinlay by Enzoani Silhouettes most in demand Between fitted and full-skirted Fabrics and colours selling best Crepe with cut out lace or mikado with clean lines, in ivory Long or short? Long Neckline? Illusion necklines with V-necks and straps Are most of your brides buying accessories from you? Yes Has there been a Meghan effect? Not at all from what we’ve seen How many appointments per bride is the usual today? Two, and then fittings Labels carried Blue by Enzoani, Ellis, Enzoani, Maggie Sottero, San Patrick Average price of gowns sold in 2018 £1,400
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YPOS
YO U R P R O B L E M S O U R S O LU T I O N S This month the ‘problem’ is one of local bridal shows – is the time and effort worth it in the grander scheme of attracting customers to your business? We got three experienced retailers to come up with the solutions for you I am new – well, new-ish – to bridalwear retailing, and I’m aware of how much effort is needed to get those potential customers into the shop. My question is this: do local bridal shows in hotels and country houses actually work for others, and deliver business? And do the results justify the costs?
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Rebecca Baddeley The Dressing Rooms Halesowen, West Midlands
Exhibiting at small local events, usually at local venues, can be a double-edged sword. Time out of the business, extra staff for cover, models (if there is a catwalk)… This can all add up, so these events must have a return that can be measured. Data capture, email addresses and wedding dates are crucial to this return, though with GDPR, it is imperative that you ensure you have covered this when taking these details. These shows can be a great way to connect with brides close by and create
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brand awareness, locally. It’s a nice way for brides to get a feel for who you are and the ethos of your business, if it’s done right and attended by staff who you are confident will portray the image you want. In years gone by, I would take as many dresses as possible – perhaps a rail of dresses, too – but having done so many local shows, we now limit it to five or seven mannequins and we don’t take accessories or shoes (simply because we want to attract brides who have not yet purchased their dresses, rather than
those just looking for accessories). It’s a good idea to take different styles to show the diversity you have, while ensuring that the dresses you take compliment each other when displayed. Ensure you have plenty of leaflets, professionally designed and printed, because this also portrays the type of business you are. Above all, it’s a great way to reassure brides that they are in safe hands when they purchase from you and to give them confidence to visit you without feeling pressured into buying.
BRIDES UP NORTH
Rob and Andrew Pearce Creatiques Bridal Boutique Southsea, Hants
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For many years now we have attended local bridal shows; like others, we think of this as the window to our
store, an initial Introduction to ‘us’ as a boutique. Given the small display area that is the norm at local shows, we learned early on that a ‘taster’ is what’s needed. We take five styles – slinky, t-length, ballgown, A-line and a fishtail, and find this works incredibly well for display purposes. We place the three full gowns on a draped table and the other two standing in the floor in front. Don’t forget that you are there to represent your shop, so
banners with your branding are a must-have. Another advantage of exhibiting is the social networking possibilities with other like-minded weddingbased businesses. Those relationships mean that other local suppliers will be promoting you, too. Find out which shows work best; ask your brides where they are getting married and if that same venue keeps coming up, you may find it is worth your while exhibiting there. Yes, these shows can be costly to exhibitors, so it’s important to evaluate which work best for you. We colour-code the business cards we hand out – that way, when a bride brings the card into the boutique, we can tell in an instant which show brought her to our door, without asking.
Having done a huge amount of research into the retail sector – not just as the buyer, but the supplier, too – 100 percent of the interest in your business comes within the first seven seconds of meeting someone for the first time; 70 percent is based on whether they like you as people, and 30 percent on whether you have the designer or product they are looking for! Things to remember: • Research if a particular show is right for you and will produce results • Always make sure your branding is prominent in your display. And smile! • Always look smart. A badge is effective – wear one with your name and shop name. You want to make an impression, and brides to remember you.
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pick the venues I want to the show and collaborate work with. with others to do her hair I like to know the and makeup. following before agreeing • Consider how you will to attend, so now I do some present a pop-up of your investigating and ask (or do) brand. Myself, I have a the following before I attend personal loathe of banners such shows: and mannequins on tables. I take a capsule edit that • How many bridal shops are represents my collection. going to be there? • I also do demonstrations • Who are they and do we to get the girls talking. each represent a different market segment in terms I try to do as many shows as of price or style? I can, personally. It’s great Ellie Sanderson • Does the venue profile to build relationships with Beaconsfield and Eynsham match that of my bride? the venue; it’s also great • How will the venue for networking with other Love them or hate promote the event, and like-minded businesses. them, wedding what is the expected But, more than anything, shows are a brilliant number of guests these shows put you way to get in front of your expected to attend? personally in front of your target market. A few years • Will there be a fashion client. This is your time to ago I changed direction show? (If there isn’t, I offer put on your game-face. from national shows to to host one.) Talk to them about why more local shows and small they should choose you, intimate events; now I hand- • I always have a model at
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UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL Ellie likes to attend wedding shows that are intimate and have a personal vibe – like her boutique
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get them booked in, see them personally when they come in and foster that relationship. I also ask brides to opt in to our database, so that we can stay connected. Four hours on a Sunday is a big ask, but to convert one or two is well worth the effort. Often it’s a lot more than that. Everything I do now is small, intimate and personal, and wedding shows should be the same. Got a problem in your boutique that’s causing you headaches? Don’t panic. We’ll get your fellow retailers to give their views and words of wisdom on the topic. If you’d like to remain anonymous, we’ll respect that. Drop us an email on susi@meanttobemedia.com.
For Trade Inquires please contact: sales@nicolespose.it | ph. +44 7508 724 671 www.nicolespose.it |
O B
OPULENCE BRIDAL DESIGNED BY HANNAH GARDNER
w w w. rom a n t i c a ofde von . c o . u k / o p u le n c e S tyle : Du n lu c e
SABINA ALI
IN HER OWN WO RDS The Sabina Motasem label is all about unadulterated luxury – pared-down simplicity that makes a powerful statement. We talked to founder, owner, designer Sabina Ali about her past, her present, and her very bright future 48 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ A U G U S T 2 0 1 8
ANNE MARIE TOP
JEMMA DRESS
could be, nor did I have the courage to take the plunge. After working in fashion for several years, and as a graphic designer in marketing, I created a line of cocktail dresses for off-schedule London Fashion Week, and special wedding dress gifts for Do you come from a family two best friends, who couldn’t find a in the business? No-one in my family has worked in the simple and elegant gown to wear on bridal industry, although my father was a businessman and inspired I spent time at the Business me to do the same. My business is and IP Centre, where had all me; I started from the ground up, and it has grown organically over mentoring sessions with the the years.
for such a thing, and the idea for Sabina Motasem was born. Motasem happens to be my middle name and means ‘inner beauty’. I won an award on the HBV New Entrepreneur Scholarship, which provided a grant to start my business and was selected to showcase my collection at the Zandra Rhodes’ Fashion and Textile Museum. I then won the Highly Commended Award at the 2016 Wedding Industry Awards for London and South East.
Did you always want to be in of The Body Shop bridal, or did it just happen along the way? Ever since I was little, I always wanted their special day 11 years ago. It suddenly occurred to me that to be in fashion and have my own there could be a gap in the market business, but I had no idea what that
What preparation (and bravado) went into it? Winning that HBV New Entrepreneur Scholarship made a huge difference. I spent a lot of time at the Business and IP Centre at the British Library,
A bit of background, please? I trained as a knitwear designer at DeMontfort, and worked in fashion for several years before creating my own line.
late Anita Roddick, founder
When did you launch your label? I launched my first collection in 2007.
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HELENA CAMI, HATTY SKIRT
These beautifully shot images from the Sabina Motasam Aurora collection were taken by photographer Helen McArdle at the sumptuous Andaz London.
networking with other businesses, and learning about business. It was there that I was fortunate to have mentoring sessions with the late Anita Roddick, founder of The Body Shop, who was supportive and helpful in those early stages.
HAZEL TOP
the very finest fabrics, and our silks and heavy silk crepes are from fine suppliers in Italy.
Where are you based and where are your dresses made? We are a London-based label; our dresses are exclusively made in the How would you describe your style? UK in high-end ateliers. Our dresses are timeless, with simple Tell us about your 2019 collection… and elegant shapes and a focus on Aurora is timeless, elegant, and beautiful detail and styling. always under-stated. It includes sequinned beauties, delicately Where do you source your fabrics? embroidered 3D flowers, pearlWe are committed to always using
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encrusted toppers and waterfall draped and reversible wrap skirts. There are ten pieces now and a further seven launching in October. Do you take inspiration from anywhere or do you just focus on reinventing classical lines? I’m always looking for innovative, original ideas and working on new ways of cutting and draping fabrics. I’m fortunate to have a very creative and collaborative team, who love developing fresh ideas. I am really excited to be presenting the second
part of our Aurora collection in October, which is going to have more embellished and artfully created pieces. How many stockists do you have today and where are they? Our dresses are available in Ireland, Germany, the US and, of course, here in the UK. London Designer Weekends at The Andaz – tell us all about it! What are you hoping to achieve there? Brides want to connect with brands in a way that hasn’t been done before, and be able to co-create their wedding dress. At our exclusive designer weekends at the Andaz, the most popular and the most voted for new styles we preview exclusively to brides will become the new, additional styles in our October collection. We want to create a luxurious and innovative experience, one where the bride is involved and can influence which styles make it into our collection… Along with allimportant bubbly in five-star luxurious surroundings, of course! The Andaz London hotel is perfect for us. It is known for celebrating personal style; it’s where East London art meets modern and eclectic.
Brides want to connect with brands in a way that hasn’t been done before, and to be able to cocreate their dream dress And where can retailers interested in stocking your collection see it? In London, at a private viewing, in March. They can call or email me for information and to make a date. What is your retail price range? Prices start from £1,750 and can go up to £4,500.
And the size range? Sizes start from 8 and can go up to 22 – all our dresses are made to order. Any celebs wearing your dresses? We’ve dressed actresses Jacqueline Jossa, Fiona Wade and Lucy Dixon. You can see pictures of those dresses on the red carpet over at: motasem.co.uk/blogs/news/ 16321241-celeb-style-sabinamotasem-on-the-red-carpet
I wish that British summer continues to be super-hot – it’s great for weddings Three wishes – what would they be (no, you can’t include a lottery win)? I wish Brexit wasn’t really happening. I wish British Summer continues to be super-hot – it’s great for weddings! I wish… I can’t think of a third one! Where do you see yourselves five years from now? And ten years? I hope to be still meeting lovely new brides and dressing them in beautifully designed couture dresses. What have been the biggest changes you have seen in the industry since you started? The bride of today is looking for an amazing experience. She wants to be able to reflect her own individual style in the most important dress she’s ever going to wear. She wants to be able to choose between lots of different options. Brexit has been the biggest challenge to navigate, with ever-changing exchange rates and uncertainty, but things will settle soon. The high street offering of wedding attire has changed the industry, but I believe it’s great to have other options out there for brides that are interested in an off-the-peg dress rather than a couture, made-to-order gown.
YASMIN HELENA
Sabina Ali T: +44 (0)20 7249 3100/+44 (0)7788 713714 sabina@motasem.co.uk motasem.co.uk
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MUST HAVES The Nicole Group is one of Italy’s most important bridal companies, known for its quality, its sense of style, and its ability to set trends. Debbie Johnston of Deborah Rose Agencies is now representing the portfolio in the UK and Ireland, and watching the network of prestigious stockists spiral 52 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ A U G U S T 2 0 1 8
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ROMANCE COLLECTION Everything we love about ‘fairytale’
icole Fashion Group boasts a magnificent collection of labels, eight in all, which includes two sparkling newcomers. Luxury by Nicole, as the name suggests, brings together design excellence and the highest quality fabrics. The other is Lovely Wedding Curves, a line that caters specifically to the bride who wants to accentuate her positives and dress with panache on her big day. The creative force behind these best-selling labels is led by Alessandra Rinaudo, co-owner of Nicole with her husband Carlo Marco Cavallo, the business brains. Alessandra is an internationally respected designer whose work is loved by brides in 52 countries and celebrities across the world; she is also host to her own-name television series in Italy, which ensures she is at the forefront of the industry and first in every brides’ thoughts. Formed in 1996 in Piedmont, the company today has an incredible reach, spreading its beautiful message not only to a legion of appreciative stockists, but also to their brides themselves. The support programme, which is core to the company’s promotional activity, leaves no opportunity out of the loop – social media, advertising, television exposure, digital catalogues and an impressive web presence ensures that the name – and the latest looks – stay in the bridal limelight. Each season, Nicole produces many hundreds of samples to satisfy the tastes and wants of its impressively large audience, while keeping its individual brands distinct in their personality. It would be easy to simply make small changes in styles and to carry one basic model across the ranges, but this is not the Nicole way of working. Each label has something special to offer and every design is an original for that brand. Magnificent laces, embroideries, lighter-than-air chiffons and the softest tulles feature throughout the core collections – Nicole, Colet, Jolies, Aurora, Romance, Luxury by Nicole
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line of each dress – from the scoop of a daringly low back, to the distinct curve of a skirt. Romance Think fairytale here, and soft, flowing lines, in gently-sculpted mermaid dresses, and ballgowns with jewelled bodices and full layered skirts. Rich embroideries, crystal and Swarovski decorations add to the magic on show here. Luxury by Nicole is a celebration of the company’s 20th anniversary. Embroidered and 3D-effect laces, fascinating silhouettes, deep and sensual necklaces, and colour feature in this deliciously different capsule collection of sumptuous dresses for a bride who wants to stand out.
NICOLE COLLECTION Did somebody say illusion panels? These look incredible
AURORA COLLECTION We can’t get over just how gorgeous this open back is!
and Lovely with Curves, while the topof-the-market Alessandra Rinaudo uses the most opulent fabrics and embellishments, as one would expect from an exclusive couture range. Included in the 2019 collections are sexy mermaid silhouettes, dressings of intricate floral appliqués, and the introduction of gentle colour that brides are opting for today.
are thoroughly modern. Sparkling crystals, shimmering tulle and intricate embroidery, highlight boldlystated illusion panels. Colet will be first choice for many, mainly because of its excellent colour options – whether they be muted tones or fairytale pastels. Best of all are the pinks and greens, and echoes in the prettiest floral prints.
KNOW THE PORTFOLIO Alessandra Rinaudo represents Italian sartorial excellence at its very best. From innovative understated slip dresses, to sinuous mermaids, every detail is exemplary. 3D floral embroideries and prominent sleeves are much in evidence while capes cover the shoulders and add a regal touch. Powder pink is colour to love.
Jolies epitomises fusion styling, bringing together vintage and bohemian inspiration revisited with a chic and very modern twist. There are full lace dresses, gowns with soft movement, maxi skirts in the lightest blue, and a certain casualness that will delight brides when they want to go barefoot.
Nicole is where bridal style and high fashion combine in a look that is fresh, different and always charming. The cut is beautiful, the shapes and fabrics light, the laces and macramés
Aurora is for the bride who is into refined good looks, and underplayed elegance. The fabrics here are smooth and the cut relies on immaculate tailoring techniques to perfect every
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Nicole Lovely Wedding Curves is the perfect name for the perfect collection, created for brides who want a gown that’s been designed expressly for them. Can’t wait? Get in touch with Debbie Johnston on: P: +44 (0)7508 724671 E: debbie@deborahroseagencies.com W: nicolespose.it
BREAKING NEWS!
Can’t wait? Minutes before we went to press, it was announced that BC Partners has acquired Nicole Fashion Group making it now part of Pronovias. We’ll tell you more in the next issue, but we have the press release online at weddingtradermag.com right now.
Looking for stockists at this exciting time.
Sale price range ÂŁ129- ÂŁ599 For more information contact: James McKenna T: 07551 006 995 jamesmckenna@rachelallan.com Kirsty Voce T: 01765 570 040 kirstyvoce@rachelallan.com
www.marysbridal.com
THE WED D I N G TRADER GUIDE TO
Get Away Dresses More and more couples are opting to marry abroad and opting for destinations as different as romantic hilltop villages on faraway islands (think Mamma Mia) to the splendour French grand chateaus to golden beaches when sun, sand and sangria are the order of the day (and night). We picked the dresses with real pack-up-and-go appeal
MIA MIA Style: Aurora Fabrics: Beaded organza Sizes: 8-24 RRP: £1,500 T: +44 (0)20 8804 1444 E: info@alanhannah.co.uk W: alanhannah.co.uk
NAOMI NEOH Style: Luna Fabrics: Chiffon skirt, beaded bodice Sizes: UK 6-16 RRP: £2,395 T: +44 (0)1443 222600 E: info@naomineoh.com W: naomineoh.com
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GEMY MAALOUF Style: W185516 Fabrics: French lace layered with dotted tulle Sizes: 8-18 RRP: £2,300 T: +961 1 689 503 E: contact@gemymaalouf.com W: gemymaalouf.com
ALAN HANNAH Style: Hilary Fabrics: Gold French lace Sizes: 8-24 RRP: £2,500 T: +44 (0)20 8804 1444 E: info@alanhannah.co.uk W: alanhannah.co.uk
RONALD JOYCE Style: 18253 Fabrics: Crepe Sizes: 6-30 RRP: £1,300 T: +44 (0)1636 593483 E: enquiries@ronaldjoyce.com W: ronaldjoyce.com
BRIAN CHEN Style: Drail Fabrics: Crepe Sizes: US 4-34 RRP: $2,100 US T: +88 692 883593 E: sales1@brianchenbridal.com W: brianchenbridal.com
CHARLIE BREAR Style: Nyika Fabrics: Luxe crepe Sizes: UK 6-18 RRP: £2,145 T: +44 (0)20 7637 4898 E: wholesale@charliebrear.com W: charliebrear.com
AMY MAIR COUTURE Style: Bellflower (overlay) Fabrics: Tulle with French lace trim, chiffon flowers, metallic thread Sizes: 4-18 RRP: £2,100 T: +44 (0)7531 520158 E: amy@amymaircouture.co.uk W: amymaircouture.co.uk
DIANE LEGRAND Style: 7508 Fabrics: Soft crepe with ivory/ silver embellishments Sizes: UK 6-32 RRP: £1,399 T: +44 (0) 07931 370425 E: helen@wellconnectedagent.com W: dianelegrandbridal.com
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LILLIAN WEST Style: 66001 Fabrics: Chiffon Sizes: US 2-20 RRP: £899 T: +44 (0) 1908 615599 E: info-uk@justinalexander.com W: justinalexander.com/en/lillian-west
KATE HALFPENNY Style: Lukas Fabrics: Embellished tulle with lace trim Sizes: 6-18 RRP: £2,800 T: +44 (0)20 7388 7300 E: jessica@halfpennylondon.com W: halfpennylondon.com
MODECA Style: Demetria Fabrics: Lace and chiffon Sizes: EU 32-56 RRP: £1,500 T: +44 (0)7962 226543 E: abagenciesltd@gmail.com W: modeca.com
SWEETHEART GOWNS Style: 11000 Fabrics: Lace Sizes: US 2-32 RRP: £1,029 T:+44 (0)1908 615599 E: info-uk@justinalexander.com W: justinalexander.com/en/sweetheart-gowns
OLVI’S Style: 4042SW Fabrics: English net and lace Sizes: 6-24 RRP: £2,095 T: +44 (0)7809870561 E: roger@wellconectedagent.com W: olvis-lace.com
ANNY LINN BRIDAL Style: Katniss Fabrics: Chantilly lace, French soutache, pearl beadwork Sizes: 0-24 RRP: £1,280 T: +44 (0)1524 220250 / +44 (0)7745 002415 E: kat@UKBridalImports.co.uk W: annylinbridal.com
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MORILEE Style: Lara Fabric: Soft net and lace appliqués Sizes: 2-30 RRP: £825 T: +44 (0)1636 700889 E: info@morlee.eu W: morilee.co.uk
WILDERLY – OUR COVER STAR! Style: Adele Fabrics: English net and lace Sizes: 2-32 RRP: £POA T: +44 (0)1707 643633 E: uksales@allurebridals.com W: allurebridals.com/wilderlybride
SANYUKTA SHRETHA Style: Sonia Fabrics: Organic silk Sizes: 6-22 RRP: £2,295 T: +44 (0)20 7385 9927 E: trade@sanyuktashrestha.com W: anyuktashrestha.com
DAVID FIELDEN SPOSA Style: 8974 Fabrics: chiffon and chantilly lace Sizes: 10-16 RRP: £2,287 T: +44 (0)20 7351 0002 E: walter@davidfielden.co.uk W: davidfielden.co.uk
FOOTLOOSE Emmy London has some wonderful little sandals, perfect for destination dressing. + 44 (0) 207 704 0012 emmylondon.com
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OfficialMonCheriEurope @moncherieurope @moncherieurope
www.mon-cheri.co.uk
Shop talk Sally White has just celebrated her first full decade in bridal and has loved every minute of watching her business, White Bride, flourish. Happy birthday Sally, from all of us at Wedding Trader. Here’s to the next ten years
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hite Bride was opened by myself in Narberth, Pembrokeshire on 22 April 2008, after owning a fashion boutique since 2001. White Bride occupied the pretty listed cottage next door to White Boutique and had previously been a vintage shop, a fashion boutique and a greengrocers. I had worked in fashion since graduating with a Jewellery degree in 1992 – as a buyer for Liberty London, River Island and Oasis, until I had my daughter Matilda in 2000. This prompted the move back to western Wales where we bought the building and opened White Boutique. When I opened White Bride, I did lots of research into what was currently available in West Wales. The type of experience brides were having was pretty awful. I had a really lovely shopfit and some fantastic labels, but what was most important to me was quality service and the experience I could provide, so I saw brides by appointment-only from their first meeting through to fittings and collecting the gown. This still happens today. White Bride grew and grew and I found most of my time was spent in bridal, which I loved. Then, last year, with the end of our lease on the building, my husband and I decided
that it was time to close the fashion boutique and move White Bride into the slightly larger space. This was a massive decision – I had worked in fashion my whole adult life and had owned the shop for 17 years. That said, I felt that I needed to give bridal more, and so we did it! It was a big move, even though it was just next door. We had a lot of stock to get rid of and a complete shopfit to do, but in March 2018 we closed the boutique doors and got in a fantastic team to create what I had designed, and we opened the new-look White Bride on our tenth anniversary, which was lovely timing.
Having lived and worked with the old shopfit, I had a lot of things I wanted to change, so the rails were higher and there was that allimportant dedicated sale rail area. The lighting was really important – I wanted it to be flattering – as much natural light as possible and lots of space for brides to swoosh dresses. I went for brass fittings – something different to copper and chrome – and my electrician was bemused by it (West Wales can be slower on trends). And then there’s my fabulous team: Helen, my seamstress; Jess who is currently on maternity leave (but pops in all the time and is completely obsessed with bridal gowns!); and Mary, who was my first-ever bride through the door, back in 2008. I couldn’t be happier, with brands like Charlie Brear, Jesús Peiró, La Sposa, Willowby by Watters and WToo. We have lots of little details that we know brides love, such as swatch cards and folders for their paperwork, and all the alterations are done in the dedicated sewing room. I hope Welsh brides love the new shop as much as we do. The reaction by those who have visited so far has been wonderful, so here’s to the next ten years! Got a story to share with your fellow retailers? Drop us an email us at susi@meanttobemedia.com.
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Everyone in bridal has been watching The Posh Frock Shop, the TV show that puts designer super-star Ian Stuart and his super-store The Blewcoat, firmly in the spotlight. This series, in Channel 4’s top 20 after just a few episodes, has been waited for, talked about and thoroughly applauded. We’re eager for a second series! Ian, are you ready for your Wedding Trader close up?
Okay – how did it all happen? Did some TV producer just walk in and say “You are the one”? I met the director, Brian Hayes, a few years ago. He has won BAFTAS for First Dates and 24 Hours In A&E. What was your reaction when they approached you? It all started when they visited The Blewcoat and saw us interacting with our customers. They asked if we would be interested in making a ‘sizzle reel’ (a three-minute miniature version). The plan was originally for a one-hour documentary about the daily life of an upmarket boutique, both upstairs and downstairs. We said okay, and thought nothing more of it. A year later, they called to say that Channel 4 wanted to commission 25 episodes of 30 minutes each.
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Was it a big decision to say ‘yes’? It was a no-brainer. We couldn’t let such a huge PR opportunity pass by to promote our brand for our retailers. Have you had your say in the series? We were able to give our opinions and to stop (and effectively halt) any piece of filming that was going down a route we didn’t want to go down. Were you told to watch your language? Did you have a script? Did you have a dresser of your own? We were extremely careful and mindful of every word we said and how we said it – I am very aware of the editing process and how words can be misconstrued. There were no scripts, It really was reality! And no, we didn’t have a ‘dresser’, we all wore what we would normally wear in
LET’S GO ON WITH THE SHOW the shop. We did keep clothes here, because sometimes the crew needed to do ‘pickups’ (extra shots) for a story that had been produced three weeks earlier, so we had to change back into those clothes to give the impression of continuity with regards to editing. Were all of the customers genuine? All the customers are genuine and looking for a dress for a special event. OFCOM law dictates that some customers were my customers while some applied to be on the show, so that they could use it as a platform in which to tell their own story. There seems to be no conversation or questions about the price. Do those customers have any idea of price tags before they arrive at Blewcoat? Do they care? Our Blewcoat website states where our prices start. Many people save up for their special event, regardless of class, background, wealth and I am very proud of the fact we don’t judge a book by its cover! How many episodes have been filmed and are there more planned? Twenty-five episodes have been filmed to be aired weekdays Monday to Friday for five weeks and I can officially tell you that we were informed by Channel 4 that The Posh Frock Shop was in the top 20 rated shows after only three episodes! That’s brilliant! But how much of your time is this all taking? The filming took place between August and February – 84 days in
total, but the camera crew worked around us, and we had specific days with no cameras, for clients who did not wish to be filmed.
Are your stockists going to town promoting your labels? We have received positive responses from our nationwide retailers from the first week of the TV show; they Has anyone left without finding their see this brand-building moment as dream dress? a great way in which to promote our Yes, of course; like any shop, you win collections in their areas. We have not some and you lose some! just done this for us, we have done this to boost our wholesale customers What is the wildest request you who have who have supported us have had thus far? over the years. To make a matching dress for a client’s small dog! And finally, how has social media reacted? What is the nicest thing What do you like designing most: that’s been said so far? bridal gowns or MOB? All of the social media platforms I really enjoy the challenges of peak when the show is on. We have designing occasionwear. Colours received very nice positive tweets need to match to laces, linings, and messages too, including: “Finally zips and beadings, prints… It’s more a wedding show that shows what complicated and difficult than bridal, retailers have to put up with!” because you are dealing with colours and colour options. Check out The Posh Frock Shop on Channel 4, weekdays, and visit When did you know formalwear was ianstuart-blewcoat.com. the Ian Stuart thing? I have always loved both bridal and occasionwear, but most of my career has been bridal. Now I can really enjoy designing both! Since the show went on air, what reaction have you found in terms of new customers? Since the first episode, things have been pretty normal here and as they were. This is a daytime show on at 5:30pm, when most people are still at work. Ratings are based not on live TV, but on Catch Up or laptop viewing – this indicates that a viewer has purposely tried to find a specific show.
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Silhouette BRIDAL
w w w. rom a n t i c a of de von .c o . u k / s ilh o u e t t e Ava i l a bl e from a si ze 1 8 t o a s iz e 3 4 . S ty l e : Azu re
Bridal jumpsuits In the newest collections there are tailored trouser suits, floaty separates with palazzo pants, all-inones, and short-shorts on show beneath a layer of lace. No question, the legs have it! HE RVE PA RI S RRP £1,300 herveparis.com +31 854 899278 Designer Mireille Bleines is the creative force behind the reinvented Herve label, and brings French style to her new collection by mixing sharp silhouettes with soft detailing. Her trouser suit is gorgeous with and without the jacket.
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ALAN HA NNA H RRP £1,800 alanhannah.co.uk +44 (0)20 8804 1444 Una features detail and then more detail, from the keyhole neck to expose a hint of cleavage, to off-theshoulders billowing sleeves that create a high halter, to the rows of beads. Marguerite – you have done it again!
SUZA NNE NE VIL L E RRP £2,695 suzanneneville.com +44 (0)1483 533209 The perfect little suit, immaculately cut in fine Italian crepe, carries all the handwriting of its designer who understands contouring better than anyone. The shawl collared jacket is waisted, and carries embroidered motifs. A U G U S T 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 67
JAZZ BY M ODECA RRP £1,350 modeca.com +44 (0)7962 226543 Going the separates route, Dutch house Modeca gives plenty of options. The wide leg chiffon Chambort pants can be teamed up with a whole range of tops, from little lacey vests to lace and tulle illusion-sleeved formals.
JUST IN A L E XA NDE R SIGNAT UR E RRP £2,859 jasignature.com +44 (0)1908 615599 Bet you never put ‘romper’ and ‘style’ in the same sentence. Justin Alexander is proof that is works! This geometric lace number with its detachable train turns fun into high fashion, coming in ivory, silver and nude.
E NC HA NT ING BY M O N C HE R I RRP £594-£660 mon-cheri.co.uk +44 (0)1954 232102 Here’s a soft, flowing jump suit with a plunge back, deep V-front and halterneck, and pockets. Finally, it’s topped with a see-through cape in feather-light chiffon. Diamond white is the colour, with stretch crepe being the form-fitting fabric.
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ia con Zir
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Affordable luxury for every bride
For further information please contact our please contact our head office: Très Chic Bridal Wear | EMAIL info@treschicbridalwear.com
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Second opinion Wedding blogger Alison Tinlin (@MrsPandP) is the UK’s most prolific tweeter – what she doesn’t know about social media simply ain’t worth knowing. Here she looks at turning the negatives round to help your business grow
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ack in the early days of social media, the platforms were a way to bring people together, and to bridge a divide across the borders of time and distance. For the small business owner, it was the way forward to have their voice heard other than print media or word-of-mouth, and that was incredibly exciting. Apps such as Facebook, Twitter and, more recently, Instagram have been a wonderful way to engage with customers and clients. It’s about knowing where customers are, what they think, what they want and connecting to that to bring them a service or product that is both beneficial to them, and, in turn, grows a successful business for you. Capitalising on your brand’s social presence is crucial to its existence; today having a website is not enough. A visible online existence creates instant transparency and makes people more likely to trust you – people want to communicate with you, know about your products and service and what you are getting up to. What you need to focus on is your target market. You don’t need to utilise every platform – work out which one delivers the best for you. Then you need a strategy that means your presence is going to convert to sales. Suggested post ideas can be things like: asking customers a general question for research; sharing advice
features; new or evolving product features; or posting inspirational quotes. Facebook Lives and Instagram stories are also an amazing way to personalise your content – people love to see the person behind the brand, and feel more connected with you. But social media is not without its pitfalls. Electronic manipulation and the spread of misinformation can topple even the most successful brand. People like to voice their displeasure when things go wrong, and these platforms give them an outlet. While in the past that could have meant a glass of wine and a rant to a friend about what has been unjust, these days the click of a mouse or a few taps on a smart phone means that customer complaints reach a far greater audience. How we deal with negativity and hostility can make or break a business – mistakes or falling short of expectations happen from time to time, whether you are the tiniest home business or the hugest of brands. Sometimes, a solitary negative review based on a poor experience can be justified. But it is when that review garners support (even from those who haven’t had any dealings with the company but jump on the bandwagon anyway) that irrevocable harm to a business can be done. If the worst happens and there is a backlash, consider these tips to help you weather the storm…
l Always be aware what is going on in your platforms. That way you can address any problems swiftly before a situation spirals; being absent – and therefore being seen to be ignoring an issue – is the quickest way to make something small into something huge. l Acknowledging a person’s feelings and perceptions of you – even if they are wrong – is the best way to calm down a situation before it escalates. Be factual but not defensive in response. l Take the issue out of the public forum. When people make a complaint through social media there will be supporters; you must make it known and clear on your platform that the matter is being dealt with privately, to ensure the professional face of your business stays professional. A response is essential, because if people feel stonewalled or ignored, dissatisfaction starts t0 grow. l If for some reason you have not lived up to expectations, be honest. Sometimes things outside our control (such as illness or bereavement) cause issues and delays. While you don’t have to share all of the details, letting people know an actual reason can let them cut you a little slack. Social media can be your friend, but it can also be your mortal enemy. It’s not just about promoting your content – it’s about creating meaningful and longlasting relationships. Learning how to use it in a constructive way can take time, but it is time worth investing in.
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Style with a capital S And that S stands for Sara R! We promised occasionwear buyers a special treat, and this is it. A stunning label from Spain, brought to the UK by DOM Bridals 74 ♌ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♌ A U G U S T 2 0 1 8
R
are are the times when an occasionwear collection offers something quite different to the usual dress-and-jacket combinations and play-it-safe cuts. They are, after all, what the market is all about. But when a refreshingly different label appears – one that focuses on cut and colour and is more an interpretation of elegant day wear than a red-carpet contender – it is time to celebrate. Sara R (the R stands for Ruiz), together with her brother Jorge, own what has become something of a tour de force in Spain, a
womenswear brand that stands out and makes a statement. The label has a distinctive personality, an individuality that follows designer Sara’s belief that fashion should be vibrant, sophisticated, and, above all, fresh and fun. Don’t just think MOB and formal here – look instead to guestwear, a day at the races, a major charity event. DOM Bridals saw the collection in Spain, and it was love at first sight; the colours, the use of fabrics, the accessories that complete the picture… It all added up to something special and, within the range of
around 80 pieces, real choice. And that is something perhaps missing in many occasionwear brands today, where a single theme is adopted throughout. The once-a-year collection retails from £100, and that too, for the quality and style on offer, is exceptional.; the size range runs from 8 to 20. On the map DOM did a test run and showed the range at MODA last August to gather reaction. As expected, Sara R hit a high note straight away and was snapped up by retailers looking for
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something different… and finding it. With distribution rights in the UK and Ireland, DOM already knows that it has another big-time winner in its portfolio. Bloggers and the media got busy spreading the word right after MODA, and now a complete marketing plan has been released, so other retailers can plan their buying. The programme kicked off in Ireland at Dublin’s Fashion City; then the sales team will hit the road. Next it is the all-new, not-to-be-missed Harrogate Fashion Week in late July, followed by MODA in August.
Vibrant yellows, dusky pinks So what can you expect from this made in Spain collection? Vibrant jerseys in shades of yellows, red, royal blue and purples; chiffon floral prints and brocades in soft hues of gold, dusky pink and pale blues; printed satins and nude necklines, finished with metal or fabric beaded belts and large statement flower corsages. The fabrics are wonderful, and they too wave the Spanish flag. DOM has carefully structured its offering to potential stockists, aware of the importance of exclusivity in this
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particular market sector. There is a 25-piece minimum order – which trust us, you’ll find easy to fill from such a wide selection – while a 50 piece committment will secure the area. The company will be promoting Sara R through its social media channels, and trade and consumer print and digital magazines. Want to find out more about this exciting range? Here’s where to go. T: +44 (0)1954 232102 E: sales@sara-r.co.uk W: sara-r.co.uk
www.propress.co.uk
Bridal
Styled by Steam
S EW GOO D Sarah Harbour, aka The Bridal Seamstress, first picked up a needle when she was five and by 14 knew she wanted to work in bridal. Today she is Mrs Fixit of the industry and keeps us in stitches 78 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ A U G U S T 2 0 1 8
SKETCH ARTIST Sarah has a fantastic guideto book out at the moment, Bridal Alteration Techniques
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arah’s first bridal collection was created while she was college studying fashion and design. It was made from pure white cotton chintz with handdyed, hand-made blood red roses – big squishy flowers – that were all the rage back in the ’90s. From college she went to work in a couture bridal shop and learned not only the real craft of bridal construction but also, on the shop floor, how to deal best with brides – and, of course, mums. Today, as a freelance seamstress, based in the Derbyshire Dales, Sarah works independently with a number of shops and has set time slots when she meets the brides to discuss their varying alterations. “Understanding the production method of both couture and manufactured dresses allows me to be efficient and super-fast at alterations,” she says, adding, “but shh, don’t tell the brides this!” A stitch in time Not many bridal shops can justify having a dressmaker on their books
today, so out-sourcing alterations is a sensible option. Retailers book fittings for their brides, allocate a changing room and then take a small commission from the seamstress. “It works well for all parties,” explains Sarah. The brides have a trusted dressmaker, the shop can offer a professional add-on service and we
A good deal of my fitting time is spent giving bridal entourages lessons on how to sit, how to stand… It’s not easy wearing a posh frock wielders of the mighty pin cushion have a steady source of income with quality garments. “Over the years I’ve built up a great relationship with the shops I work with, and I’m very blessed that I can offer my knowledge of fitting frocks when they have a bride who needs to know a little more in the way of what is possible for a specific dress. One of
the most overlooked parts of selling, fitting and altering bridal gowns is ensuring the bride knows how to be a bride. A good deal of my fitting time is dedicated to giving the brides and their entourage lessons on how to sit, how to stand, how to hold the bouquet. It’s not easy being a bride in a posh frock.” Sarah does few private alterations, having found that many of the dresses in need of serious help have been purchased from the internet and those – as we all know – can be more trouble than they are worth. But does she often get customers who expect her to turn an inferior garment into something magical? “That’s a loaded question,” is her initial response. “You would think that the stock carried by reputable bridal shops would be of a superior quality every time, but sadly, over the past few years, the quality and content – even from some of the top labels – has declined. “Popular styles, too, especially the easy-going ones, have reduced foundation fabrics – the thing that
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gives them ‘body’. But my pet hate are elasticated loops to fasten tightly-fitted dresses (Come on… By its very nature elastic will stretch!). I have to replace all of them with proper handmade rouleaux loops. No question, there are customers who are expecting far more from their gown than it is capable of delivering, but this isn’t just the fault of the customer. I find talking through what is and what isn’t possible at the beginning of the fitting process will alleviate most headaches though. “But then there are always the mothers who are expecting far too much from the dress, or the bride who brings the entire bridal party to the fitting and then there is always one who ‘does a bit of sewing’, or perhaps the bride who arrives with three pairs of shoes and expects me to make the hem length right for all three heel heights. I could go on… But needless to say, it has often been discussed with retailers that there could be a lucrative line in voodoo dolls specific to the bridal industry.” Nothing is too much Sarah works as a solo operator, confessing that she is something of a control freak who could never pass her work over to someone else. “Yes, it does limit my earning potential, but equally the buck stops with me. It only takes a slip of the un-picker and I’d be left with a lot of explaining,” she says. So passionate is she about her work, it is all-consuming. Her diary is booked up all year, so no, she doesn’t have time to turn up curtains or replace the zip on jeans. ”Hell, my son’s blazer has tacking stitches holding up the sleeves!” she laughs. “My friends and relatives have long stopped asking me to sew on the odd button here and there!” Like everyone, we enjoy a good coming-to-the-rescue story. Sarah didn’t let us down in that department. “I once had a panicked shop owner contact me,” she starts. “A gown had arrived for a customer and the owner left it hanging in its plastic
bag – next to a fan heater. The bag melted onto the skirt and the bride was due to try on her size 14 dress the following day. The shop had an identical sample dress that was a size 12. I collected both dresses, swapped the skirt panels over, made them fit and returned the bride’s dress back to the shop just before the bride arrived. I had to get extra polish that week, to buff up my halo!” It’s top-and-tail work (taking in and taking up, with bustles and bust cups)
My disclaimer ensures that brides understand that bridal gowns are specialised garments, not suitable for plane jumps! that’s most in demand. These sound like simple and straight-forward tasks, but there’s always a lot of un-picking, measuring, hand sewing and teadrinking involved. And that’s what makes the big difference between standard alterations, and couture quality refits. Sarah is spreading the word about techniques and home-grown secrets; to help others, she has produced a book on bridal alterations. “It’s such a specialised area of sewing and there really is nothing out there specific until now, not just for the sewing aspect, but also on how to work with brides. I advise others to organise paperwork with their own T&Cs, so that the customer – the bride – knows she is entering into a contract, and understands what is expected of her as well as what she can expect from you. If she loses or gains weight, or if she decides the skyscraper heels are just too uncomfortable and she wants to go for flip flops, she needs to know in advance that she’ll have to pay extra for the additional work involved. “I also include a disclaimer for my brides to sign. This ensures that they fully understand that bridal gowns are specialised garments and not suitable
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for those planning a plane jump. Needless to say we have a bit of a giggle about this… But you never know what folks have planned.” Sarah often finds herself picking up on trends that brides want. Right now, it’s clean-cut shapes with without fuss, and much less detail such as lace, but with just a sprinkling of bling. In addition to alterations, she produces a couture collection for one local bridal shop, working with them and their brides and from her samples to create a bespoke gown. “It means a shop can offer an exclusive service, and that is so important,” she says. “I’ve never wanted to have my own bridal boutique; I’ve always enjoyed the technical side of bridal wear – the pattern drafting, designing and construction. In spite of the plethora of gowns on the market, sometimes a bride has a specific ideal, and we can deliver just that.” Expecting change We had one last question for Sarah, and it’s a question that has been raised many times. How do you deal with pregnant brides? How many times might they need an alteration, or do you suggest they leave it till as close to the wedding as possible? “Pregnant brides are never normally a problem,” is Sarah’s view. “But it is quite a sensitive area. Sometimes I’m privy to such information long before the family knows, so clandestine conversations behind the changing room curtain are more frequent that you might think. “I will discuss the options with the bride. These will usually involve gussets, extra panels or the interminable corset, and lots of last-minute work as the ever-growing bump can dramatically alter the hem length. Each mum-to-be is different – as is the weight gain – but getting it right is part of the real pleasure.” Bridal Alteration Techniques (ISBN: 978-1-9998840-0-0) is available exclusively through Sarah’s website, over at bridalalterationtechniques.co.uk.
Leonie Claire is leaving retail and closing her luxurious own-name shop in Hove, East Sussex. She is moving into a new role and exciting future as Chief Operating Officer of the prestigious industry association Luxe Bride
A
s a small boutique owner you are a business manager, strategist, analyst, book keeper, team leader, saleswoman, fitter, cleaner, counselor to brides and, in my case, a fitter, too. I know this will ring a bell with every small business owner out there. What is most surprising is that most of us had no idea it was going to be such a hard, multi-faceted job before we opened our doors. Dealing with brides, who in turn are coping with the pressure of their wedding in a modern society, is no small job. Often their desire to be Instagram-worthy outweighs the real reason for the celebration. Their search for something different is tiring and their constant mind-changing can be paralyzing for them – and for us. The word ‘experience’ is never off their lips and their expectation of being fed peeled grapes, sipping Champagne and being able to film on Facebook Live is not that unusual. Bizarrely, it has become the norm, and that is terrifying.
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Every minute spoken for My background in production and fitting – combined with my sales skills – means that once a bride has bought her dress from me, I am completely involved in every one of her visits. It is my core business-driver. I do have a fabulous small team of part-time ladies, but I am so detail-driven that I can’t help but want to give the ultimate experience, and that means seeing me. Brides always want me around too, and I find there are not enough hours in the day to keep everyone happy. I am such a perfectionist that sometimes I can rack up well over 20 hours of additional time after a bride has bought her gown – that can be with styling appointments, fittings, and chatting via email or on Instagram or Facebook late into the night about various styling quandaries or wedding-related nightmares. I have ended up with no work/life boundaries, which is quite common in this industry. I know so many people who work 24/7 and never take time out. So many of my fellow like-minded business owners do it for love, not for money.
leave those issues behind me. I also eternally worry about that bad review I may get This also one of the reasons I am so behind Luxe for not staying open late, or for not answering messages Bride. It is essential to get the message out there that as soon as they come in. The constant desire for sheer luxury service and product have a value – and it can’t be perfection and a five-star rating has exhausted me. The bartered or diluted. internet has provided many platforms for problems and Google reviews are the latest thorn in our sides. Uplifting and inspiring I know I am not alone in the constant battle to educate The fact that as a Luxe Bride member you are part of a our clients in the value of the service and bespoke care supportive, positive group of like-minded independent we provide. One of the fundamental problems we face is retailers probably saved my sanity – even when it was that shoppers want the moon on a stick for a discounted an informal Facebook group. I could see back then price. It is incredibly frustrating when I bust my gut to how coming together to stay late or open on my discuss the challenges we day off to please a bride faced meant that we could and then I get haggling tackle difficulties by sharing when I am quoting a fair experiences. Being part of a and reasonable price. It group of exceptional business can be so hard to remain owners has been both positive. uplifting and inspiring. I can honestly say I have to say though, that that I have enormously while I have loved being the enjoyed my time as master of plate-spinning retailer. I am proud to say for many years, I also have that I have led change, I plates to spin at home – with have introduced labels a daughter who is growing when others thought I up so fast she will be leaving had lost my mind, But, in home before I blink, and a this constantly-changing husband who travels the market, we can’t afford to world with his job. sleep in case we miss the next big thing. Being a fashionI can honestly say that I have I am sad to be in a position where I am closing Leonie Claire, but I am also forward boutique means this is enjoyed my time as a retailer. excited to grab the bull by the horns even more critical to our success. I am proud to say that I have with Luxe. I am also beyond excited to re-balance the elusive work/life I now need to reclaim my led change, but in this market scales and have a brilliant office at work-life balance. home waiting for me. you can’t afford to sleep I am also proud that I decided to Wanting more close and not to sell my business with From a business perspective, and the other 150 on the market. I leave on a high; sales are up as an analytic woman with strong financial skills, I have felt cheated when I buy into a collection and find it is then and, as soon as I announced my closure, my phone didn’t sold to another, less-desirable, shop 20 miles away. I also stop ringing for appointments – that’s a great feeling. So for me now, it’s on to pastures new. I can’t wait to be feel cheated when it’s not marketed properly due to poor imagery or vision or, worse still, a poor grip on the market on the ground supporting brilliant retailers and forging great relationships with key suppliers. This industry is place and Instagram – poor direction. changing, and Luxe is elevating itself above the blood Some of my suppliers over the years have made me question my own sanity. It’s interesting now to watch them bath. I am proud to be the Chief Operating Officer that will drive this change. catch up with stuff I was shouting about three years ago. The market is changing at a huge rate and rather than chase it, we need to lead that change. We need our suppliers to stop selling their dresses to under-financed, ill-informed new set-up businesses. We all know that is to keep them afloat, but all it’s doing is swamping and killing our market place. I won’t be sad to luxebride.co.uk A U G U S T 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 83
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Blogger’s Best Claire Gould of The English Wedding explains the secrets to writing and running a successful blog
Blog name The English Wedding Blog When the blog launched 2009 Visitor stats and awards • 200k annual users • 30.2k Twitter followers • 10.6k Facebook likes • 3.5k Instagram followers • 1.1m monthly Pinterest viewers • Consistently ranked a top 10 UK wedding blog since 2013 Tell us a little bit about The English Wedding Blog… My blog is all about the amazing weddings we have in the UK, full of creativity and personality. We feature real weddings from everyday people, to inspire normal couples to
create their own celebrations – and I hope to inspire brides and grooms to plan their own unique weddings with a real personal touch. For me it’s all about promoting brilliant UK wedding designers, suppliers and photographers to our readers. How much planning went into the initial design/layout of the website? None! It was all about the content, and it still is. Blogs change, the internet changes, fashions and trends change and we do a redesign every 12 months or so. It’s hugely important for any wedding business to keep up with times – I don’t like wasting time designing my website! What was the blog that got the biggest-ever response? The time I set a wedding magazine
on fire! I’ve written a lot about the industry - the truth behind wedding awards certainly got people talking. But English Wedding is less controversial these days, and people read the internet too quickly to really bother replying to blog or social posts. Blogging isn’t about getting a reply, it’s about sharing inspiration freely, without expecting anything in return. We love your ‘Wedding Weather Calculator’. Where do you get ideas for web features like that? That idea was sent in! My inbox is always bursting with ideas from suppliers and creatives, and this little gem only landed last week. It’s brilliant, isn’t it? I’d take it with a pinch of salt, mind – wedding brollies are a must in the for weather in the UK! – but it’s still a bit of fun.
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that I don’t like, or things that I don’t support. Blogs should be positive and uplifting, happy places – it’s not my role to criticise or judge. What’s the criteria that makes one story better than another? The people in it. It’s really hard to put a finger on why I choose a particular wedding for a blog post, but it comes down to the people: the bride and groom who smile all day, who put a really individual stamp on things with styling touches that don’t follow clichéd trends on Pinterest; the photographer who sees things in a very unique way and creates amazing, beautiful images; a dress that is genuinely different, brave, colourful… It’s all about having a fresh and different perspective. What makes a great photograph? Smiles. Light. People. Creativity. Memories. Also, great photographers! I have a little saying when it comes to ‘culling’ the images I’m sent for a blog feature: “never delete a grandma”. Weddings are all about people, connections and emotions. So while I look for designer details and craftsmanship in the features I post, it’s the people who really make great photographs. Smiles and laughter on my screen make my work a very happy place! How do you use social media to your advantage? Do you use hashtags, or schedule your posts for specific times? What platform seems to work best for you? I have become very wary of Facebook and Instagram - but I appreciate they are really important platforms to any business. On Instagram, I look for the hashtags our featured photographers are using, and that’s my starting point. Every social media post is scheduled – I’ve learned a lot about work/life balance over the decade I’ve had a wedding blog, and I focus 90 percent of my energy on the blog, and ten percent or less on social media. Most brides and grooms use Google to find suppliers. Blogging is way more important to The English Wedding than social media.
Do you come straight out if you regard something as second-rate and advise retailers and consumers against it? No – and the reason I don’t is because I don’t want to get sued. You have to be really careful publishing opinions on the internet – over the years I’ve seen bloggers get in trouble for doing this. Therefore, the way I get around this is I won’t feature anything that I myself don’t agree with, or things
On Instagram, I look for the hashtags that our featured phographers are using and that’s my starting point
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Should bridal boutiques run blogs on their own website? What are the top tips for getting it right? Definitely. It’s more important since Facebook have changed their algorithms, and Instagram is likely to follow suit. My tips would be to use beautiful images – with the photographer’s permission every time – and try to blog regularly. No one gets it right every time, but you’ll never learn if you don’t have a go… Head over to english-wedding.com to read more of Claire’s beautiful blogs, and follow her on Twitter @English_ Wedding. Thinking of starting a blog on your own website? Got questions for blogging gurus that you’d like to ask? Email tom@meanttobemedia.com.
I N T R O D U C I N G O U R 201 8 CO L L E C T I O N
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I N TH E S POT L IG H T The Bridal Buyer Awards are widely recognised as the most prestigious in the industry, and are celebrated in September, during the Harrogate Bridal Show. The finalists have been announced and the judges are currently working away, analysing all of the short-listed entries. Here’s a run-down on who has made it through thus far, and who will cast the final votes… THE FINALISTS Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – England • Abigail’s Collection & The Groom’s Room • Aurora Bride • LOVE Bridal Boutique • Sì... Bridal & Co • The Confetti Box Bridal Centre • The Dressing Rooms, Halesowen Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – Ireland • Cinderella’s Closet • Eden Bridal • Ivory & Pearl • Marie Me • Perfect Day • Petticoat Lane Bridal
Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – Scotland • Alison Kirk Bridal • Avorio Bridal • Eleganza Sposa • Olivia Cameron Bridal • Rachel Scott Couture • Sophia Grace Couture
Best Retailer Customer Service of the Year • Creatiques • Mousetrap Dress Boutique • Rachel Scott Couture • Sophie Grace Bridal • The Bridal Collection of Lancaster • The Little Pearl Bridal Boutique • Wedding Belles of Four Oaks
Bridalwear Retailer of the Year – Wales • Cariad Bridal Ltd • Celtic Brides • CocoMio Bridal • Laura May Bridal • Sentiments Bridal • White Bride
Retailer Website of the Year • Dotty Taylor Bridal • Ellie Sanderson Bridal Boutique • Halo & Wren Bridal • Kimberley Anne Bridal Boutique • The Bottom Drawer Bridal • Wedding Belles of Four Oaks
New Bridalwear Retailer of the Year • Along Came Eve • Elizabeth Kate Bridal • Halo & Wren Bridal • MK Bridal • Olive Jones Bridal • Somerset Bridal
Best In-Store Design • Aurora Bride • Ian Stuart Blewcoat • Kimberley Anne Bridal Boutique • Knowsley Bridal Suite • Mousetrap Dress Boutique • Sì... Bridal & Co
Best Mens’ Formalwear Retailer • A Family Affair Ltd • A-Z Wedding Services Ltd • Chimney Formal Menswear • Impeccable Menswear • Suited n Booted
Best Bridalwear Manufacturer of the Year • Enzoani • Justin Alexander • Maggie Sottero Designs • Morilee • Private Label by G UK Ltd • Romantica Of Devon
Long-Standing Retailer of the Year • Bride to Be • Creatiques Bridal Boutique • Emma Hartley Bridalwear • Lulu Browns Bridal Boutique • The Confetti Box Bridal Centre • The Wedding Shop, Colchester
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Best Bridesmaid Collection of the Year • Kelsey Rose • Motee Maids • Rewritten Bridesmaids • Special Day • The Dessy Group • True Bridesmaids
Best Prom Collection of the Year • Ellie Wilde for Mon Cheri • Eternity Prom • Mascara • Morilee Prom • Prom Frocks • Ruby Prom • Zoey Grey Best Mother of the Bride Collection of the Year • Dress Code by Veromia • Irresistible by Veromia • John Charles • Veni Infantino for Ronald Joyce Best Plus Size Collection of the Year • Beauty by Victoria Kay • Callista Bride • Justin Alexander • Ladybird Plus • Maggie Sottero • Jolene Smith – • Sonsie Hull School of Art & Design • White Rose Graceful • Joss Boulle – Harrogate College Best Headdress Collection • Laura Cawkwell – of the Year Hull School of Art & Design • Halo & Co • Luke Jowsey – • Ivory & Co Hull School of Art & Design • Lily Bella • Marnie Rowland – • Linzi Jay Hull School of Art & Design • Miranda Templeton • Natalia Zatynksa – • Richard Designs Harrogate College • Vicky Wilson – Best Supplier Customer Service Hull School of Art & Design of the Year • Catherine Parry Wedding Dress of the Year • DOM Bridals • Allure Bridals - Style 9501 • Enzoani • Enzoani – McKinley • Justin Alexander • Essense of Australia - Style 2322 • Maggie Sottero Designs • Justin Alexander - Style 8966 • Private Label by G UK Ltd • Maggie Sottero – Cordelia Student Designer of the Year • Mikaella by Paloma Blanca - Style 2181 • Abby Nicholls – • Mori Lee - Karlee, Style 8207 Norwich University of the Arts • Amy Coomber – British Bridalwear Designer Hull School of Art & Design of the Year • Charlotte Guest – • Charlie Brear Hull School of Art & Design • David Fielden • Georgia Marshall – • Ian Stuart Hull School of Art & Design • Sassi Holford • Hollyann Tullet – • Stephanie Allin University of Brighton • Suzanne Neville
AND THE JUDGES ARE… SUPPLIER CATEGORIES Jo Kent, Something Blue PR; Katie Ruocco, Luxe Bride; Laura Daly, Bellissima Weddings; Maria Musgrove-Wethey, The Pantiles Bride; Natasha Radmehr, Scottish Wedding Directory; Nicola Garton, Retail Bridalwear Association; Rebecca Baddeley, The Dressing Rooms RETAILER CATEGORIES Chris Williams, Peter Posh; Helena Cotter, Sales Training Expert; Martine Harris, Essense Designs; Neil Flatley, The LJ Group; Richard Lill, Ladybird; Stephanie Lomas, JLM; Wynn Penton, Ireland’s Wedding Journal RETAILER WEBSITE OF THE YEAR Caroline Bradley, Sorella & Co; Julia Braime, Brides up North & Unveiled; Keren Smith, IdoIdoIdo BEST IN STORE DESIGN Bradley Taylor, Group Head of Visual Merchandising, Mulberry; Helen Goodwin, Made You Look; Phil Pond, Scarlet Opus BEST BRITISH BRIDALWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR Nominations come from over 20 industry experts, the majority of whom are designers, themselves. Each gets to suggest their top three nominations and points are awarded accordingly. STUDENT DESIGNER OF THE YEAR Amanda Bradwell, BBSA; Wendy Adams, Ocean Media A U G U S T 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 91
THE THRILL OF IT ALL There’s nothing quite like being at the receiving end of an email that’s congratulating you on making it to the finalist line-up in an awards programme – especially if you are a relative newcomer to that category. We talked to the six who represent the best of the New Bridalwear Retailers…
Kim Hardy of Elizabeth Kate Bridal in Crowle, Scunthorpe, was in Lanzarote when she received that email. “It was a dreary day until I got the good news!” she said. “All of a sudden I had forgotten about the cold, dull weather!” Kim got on the phone, shared her good fortune with all her family, and then got busy posting on social media. She opened her small village boutique in January 2017, stocking Stella York, Blue by Enzoani, Beautiful by Enzoani, Phoenix Gowns, Alexia Daisy and LQ Designs. “Once I’d decided to go ahead and enter, it took just a morning – before opening I had spent so much time researching, planning and getting the boutique and our bridal experience perfect that I it found it easy to answer the questions. Being able to demonstrate the hard work I had put into setting up the boutique, and my passion for perfection, were what I hope had made me stand out.”
“I found the application rather easy,” Jemma Palmer told us, “because I love to talk about Halo & Wren, the brides, the story of the boutique and what makes it so unique and special.” Jemma’s Hemel Hempstead shop opened in February 2017. She carries an fabulous collection of contemporary labels – Marquise Bridal Atelier, Emmy Mae Bridal, E&W Couture, Haarlam Bridal, Marta Martí Atelier, Riki Dalal, Rembo Styling, Watters Wtoo and Willowby and handmade veils by Helen Martin. “I feel like I have made it through to the finals because there is a change coming in wedding dress shopping. Halo & Wren is a fresh alternative to the mainstream; it is not described as Luxe, it’s described as relaxed. From the very moment of initial contact be that on the website or Instagram, visitors know exactly what we stand for. Every now and then you get a little pat on the back. Mine was sitting in my inbox; not just a pat on the back, but a ‘We think you’re doing great, as good as some of the best!’ pat on the back!”
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MK Bridal in Navan, Co. Meath, opened its doors in March 2017. Owner Mairead Kennedy could not quite believe it when she received that email from the Bridal Buyer Awards, announcing she had made it to the final six. “I jumped up and down hugging my mam saying “I can’t believe it! I can’t believe it!” repeatedly,” she said. Mairead feels it was her passion for what she does, her work ethic, and her aspirations for the future that scored her points and put her in the running for that very special trophy. She spent a week on her entry, dipping in and out, and re-writing where necessary until she was satisfied she had got her message over. And the labels she carries? Paloma Blanca, Enzoani, Beautiful by Enzoani, Willowby by Watters, Allure, LouLou, White Rose, White One, Sorella Vita and Hayley Paige occasionwear.
Chester-based Along Came Eve, owned by Mira Mckean and Kendal WilliamsMckean, opened April 2017, and carries Enzoani, Blue By Enzoani, Rosa Clara, Watters, Willowby By Watters, Martin Thornburg for Mon Cheri, and Agnes. The duo spent a few hours initially on their entry and then around three weeks going back and tweaking the content before they pressed Submit. They feel that they bring something different to their area. “We have a passion for all things bridal and extremely high standards; our level of service to our brides has been a real driving force behind our good reputation,” they said. Their reaction when they got that email telling them that they were one of the chosen six? “We were, and still are, on cloud nine,” says Mira. “We were extremely hopeful that we would make the shortlist, but we still find it unbelievable. “To be a finalist is an incredible achievement in just 12 months after opening our doors. We know the competition is our category is tough, and it’s an honour to be recognised along with such fabulous boutiques.”
The trio who opened Somerset Bride in Minehead in August 2016 – Deborah Shelley, Roberta Talbot and Emily Hamnett-Harris – had their own distinct message to convey in their entry in this year’s awards: “The other shortlisted finalists are all fantastic, but we are the one in the category that specifically caters for curvy brides and we do so in a very body positive and forthright way,” says Debbie. “When we got that email I had to re-read it a few times until it sunk in. Then I rang Mum (who owns the shop with me) with a ‘guess what’ question! We are completely over the moon to have our hard work recognised and it is all down to our fabulous brides.” Somerset Bride carries five collections – Justin Alexander, Stella York, Casablanca, LQ Designs as well as Venus.
“We were honest about the trials and tribulations of being a new bridal boutique and I feel this may have been a factor in helping us stand out,” says Rachel Iravani, who opened Olive Jones Bridal in Edinburgh just over a year ago, in June 2017. With Augusta Jones, Charlie Brear, Elbeth Gillis, Karen Willis Holmes, Mikaella, Watters Brides and Wtoo by Watters in store, Rachel offers her brides a great choice. It’s her first awards entry, and the aim was to convey a strong story. Her reaction to the congratulatory email? “We have fizz on tap in the boutique – and it was certainly put to use that day!” Wedding Trader wishes every finalist in this year’s Bridal Buyer Awards the very best of luck on the big night, on 11 September 2018.
“We received hundreds and hundreds of entries across both the supplier and retailer categories this year… The standard, as usual, was very high and the judges commented on how difficult it was to pick between the top entries. Congratulations to all the finalists, and we look forward to seeing everyone in September to celebrate everyone’s successes.”
Georgia Pick, Awards Manager A U G U S T 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 93
T HE IDEAL C LIENT Gillian Roberts opened its bridal shop doors 30 years ago in Eltham, South London, and over three successful decades has seen first hand the changes in the market in general and brides’ buying habits in particular. Director Hazel Edwards gets it into perspective
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By trying to sell to everyone, you can end up selling to hen Gillian Roberts first opened 30 years no-one. Imagine being able to guarantee the customer ago, social media did not exist, leaving base that visited you, knowing their dress is nestled on magazines, wedding fairs and word your rails waiting for them to select it and fall in love with of mouth the only avenues open for it. This is the concept of the ideal client – being able to advertising. A bride would arrive, not with a challenging dictate who comes to your store; a bride who already entourage, but with a proud mother and father ready to put listens intently, has fallen for your collection and needs to their trust in our knowledge and expertise. They browsed buy a dress from you. the rails, selected gowns, and the trying on would begin. Your ideal client is that carefully-selected customer who The average bride was in her early twenties; most were we all dream of, the one who asks questions and not only still living at home and the majority of parents paid for the listens to the answers, but also trusts them. She’s the one wedding. The tradition of parents footing the bill if not for who adores your designers and has to be dressed by them all, then certainly for a major chunk of the wedding budget, on her big day; the one who recommends your services to saw decisions made jointly or even controlled by them. other like-minded brides. She is your greatest sales force. And it was expected that there would be a wait of four to To be able to define your ideal client, you need to be six months before the beloved gown arrived. Shoes and able to understand them so utterly that accessories were matched up and they smply can’t resist visiting your store purchased, bridesmaids colours were and hopefully committing to purchase selected and colour schemes decided Your ideal client is that their gown from you. upon. Designer minimums were not carefully selected customer Social media has many bonuses to the accepted norm, brides were not able to scour the internet looking for who asks questions and add to your business – it has never been so easy to connect with and contact the best price, and success was easy. listens to the answers... and your clients, to be visible to a wide Fast forward 25 years: the advent audience, to offer social proof to back up and explosion of social media and one that trusts them your store’s reputation for high standards all that comes with it has changed of service. However, brides are now able the bridal industry as we knew it, to compare shops quickly and efficiently, and judge you completely and irrevocably. on your reviews. They can go through a designer’s entire The choice for a retailer is to move with the times or collection while sitting at their desk during work hours; stagnate and fail. And this is where the most important they are inspired by celebrity looks, but may not have the thing that happened to our business came into play – same budget; they are used to instant gratification – they establishing what makes the ideal client, and targeting have that torder-today-get-it-tomorrow mentality. activities that meet her needs and wants. 94 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ A U G U S T 2 0 1 8
By carefully crafting a complete picture of your ideal client, you are able to target any advertising directly to them, no longer wasting your precious marketing budget on something that will not bring a return on the cost. You can cherry-pick the best designers with the perfect collection that will appeal exactly to your bride’s style, and even chose the most obvious repeatable styles. No longer will discontinued styles be relegated to a forgotten rail, instead you will have a ready-to-wear collection for the bride with a short wear date. On top of that, the ability to top up on best sellers throughout the year will keep your shop looking fresh, add content to your social media and compete with online shopping. Rather than discount your products to appeal to clients, use your ideal client profile to speak directly to them. It is a known fact that people buy from people, not businesses. According to audienceops.com your ideal client is: “someone who gets their exact needs met by what you’re offering”. Your ideal client will come directly from you, and will be one you would love to work with based on previous clients, or possibly a version of yourself. You can even go as far as to name them! The basics of starting your ideal client profile could be deciding on the simplest of details – gender, marital status, age range, income level and so on. Once you have decided on these simple attributes, you can really explore their personalities. Where do they shop? Where do they eat? Where do they drink? Who do they aspire to? What do they value? The more details you decide on, the better you can find your business niche. And once you have decided on your ideal client, make up a mood board on Pinterest showing everything you know about them; choose images that not only represent your client but also their style and character. Use this to help you decide on advertising. Is your client looking for visual inspiration? Then centre on Instagram and Pinterest. Do they love following highend fashion? Consider a glossy magazine. Make every decision with your ideal client in mind. You may still get customers who visit your store who fall outside of the profile you have established, but by giving them the best service they will recommend you to other brides who will be the perfect fit. After working out all the details, you may feel you have more than one ideal client but, as tempting as it is to appeal to multiple profiles, choose just one and stick to it. Remember, in niches there are riches. To get a downloadable PDF highlighting 100 questions to help you define your ideal client go to mailchi.mp/8ba07820606f/idealclient We here at Wedding Trader are interested in your own business ethos or mantra, or a personal opinion. Have you adopted a new approach to the industry? Are you experimenting with different sales techniques? Share your thoughts – email me at susi@meanttobemedia.com.
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Time with Pronovias
HEAD DESIGNER HERVÉ MOREAU IS IN LOVE WITH LACE
WEDDING
ISSUE THREE • APRIL ‘18
A NEW WAY OF WORKING
A MATTER OF OF MINIMUMS A THORNY SUBJECT, BUT ONE THAT SUPPLIERS LOOK TO ADDRESS
Mums’ stuff WHAT THE BEST-DRESSED MOTHERS WILL DEFINITELY WANT
EXCLUSIVE! HOW ENZOANI GIVES RETAILERS TOOLS FOR CHANGE
Going global
BARCELONA, ESSEN, CHICAGO, NEW YORK, DÜSSELDORF, MILAN: WHAT TO SEE WHERE IN ATTENDANCE PRETTY MAIDS ALL IN A ROW – THE BRIGHT NEW CROP OF BRIDESMAIDS DRESSES
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
ISSUE FOUR • MAY ‘18
My website journey
ONE RETAILER ON THE ROUTE SHE TOOK TO TO PERFECT HER ONLINE PRESENCE
SHOW NUMBERS SPECIAL FINDS AND NEW DISCOVERIES AT LONDON BRIDAL WEEK
GETTING IT RIGHT EVERY TIME THE NAMES AND THE LABELS YOU NEED TO KNOW MORE ABOUT
GROOMS WITH A VIEW WOW FACTOR DRESSING IS NOT JUST FOR FEMALES
If I was a retailer
VATANA WATTERS GETS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE COUNTER
Two to one
WHEN DOWNSIZING IS THE VERY BEST BET
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WEDDING
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06/03/2018 19:17
ISSUE FIVE • JUNE ‘18
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
Trying for a trophy?
A NAME TO NOTE
AND A LOOK TO LOVE. JOSÉ MARIA PEIRÓ FOR WHITEDAY COMES TO THE UK
HAS THE BRIDE BOUGHT ONLINE? HOW RETAILERS DEAL WITH THE INEVITABLE TEARS
Associations
WHICH ONE WORKS BEST FOR YOU?
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WEDDING
SUB-BRANDS WHAT THE MANUFACTURERS HAVE TO SAY
If I was a supplier ELLIE SANDERSON HOLDS NOTHING BACK
SOUTH AFRICA BRANDS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT
Catwalk stars
HOW ELIZA JANE HOWELL AND SAVIN LONDON BROUGHT THE HOUSE DOWN
WHICH AWARDS PROGRAMMES ARE THE WINNERS
BUYERS, BLOGGERS, MARKETEERS DELIVERING NEWS, VIEWS AND HONEST OPINION
SERVICE LIFTS WHAT TOP SUPPLIERS ARE PROMISING THEIR CUSTOMERS
03/04/2018 20:47
WEDDING
ISSUE TWO • MARCH ‘18
Your buying season starts here WHO IS SHOWING WHAT... AND WHERE
BRIDES ON BOUTIQUES WHAT YOUR CUSTOMERS THINK ABOUT THEIR SHOPPING EXPERIENCE
YPOS
NOT ANOTHER ONLINE OP! IT’S YOUR PROBLEMS, OUR SOLUTIONS. HELP AT HAND WHEN NEEDED
WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM
May I have a discount? NOW IS THE TIME TO SAY NO
ISSUE SIX • JULY ‘18
TAKING STOCK WANT IT QUICK? WE’VE FOUND THOSE WHO CAN DELIVER
BUILDING A LUXURY BRAND FIRST, GET YOUR PRIORITIES IN PLACE
Harrogate
SNEAK PEEK AT THE NEWEST TRENDS
BLUSHING BRIDES OUR GUIDE TO THE BEST OF THE PINKS
With mic in hand
CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO ON BEING A ROYAL COMMENTATOR
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01/05/2018 20:00
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TO WORK W I TH US , CONTACT: Advertising Sales Consultant Nardene Smith nardene@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07957 372276
Sales Executive Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07877 449122
Editor Susi Rogol susi@meanttobemedia.com
Finally, it feels that the gap has been bridged and suppliers and retailers are all on the same page, working and talking together. Susi and the fabulous team have recognised this in abundance and created a monthly handbag explosion of fascinating insight, construction opinions, hints, tips and captivating reads. Truly inspirational! Jeanette Stevens, Managing Director, Enzoani Europe
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GOING LEGAL
We’ve highlighted one particular issue here, and gone into it in detail – we’ve had several emails looking for advice on the same topic. Our legal eagle Suzanne Lurie of Affinity Resolutions comes up with some clear guidelines
l Fittings – Include here how many fittings you are happy to include in the price of the dress. l Complaints – Specify here how you will deal with complaints. You may, for example, only want to deal with a complaint if it is in writing. It may be sensible to include a clause that lets your customers know that after a fixed period of time after their big day you will not deal with a complaint.
l Change of mind/non collection You should specify here what happens if a customer decides to change their mind or does not collect the dress. There is no legal requirement risk, certainly when it comes to Is there actually a format for your customer to sign the copying someone else’s, is that or template for Terms and T&Cs. The important legal point is they may have been copied, too. Conditions? Also, at what point to ensure that they are brought to It is important that your T&Cs should I ask a bride to read and the attention of your customer at are personal to your business. sign them? I am very new to the earliest opportunity. They should be in clear language the business – in fact, I haven’t This is essential, otherwise to avoid misunderstanding or actually opened my shop yet! the T&Cs will not be binding. You misinterpretation. – and as a result, I am nervous could ask the customer to sign There are no specific about formalities… your T&Cs in your shop, but for this requirements about what should to be binding, you would have to be included, but it is well worth First of all, congratulations for give the customer time to read the your while to consider headings, thinking about the formalities of document before they signed. setting up a business at the outset. such as the following: My advice would be to make Many startup businesses overlook sure you always refer to your l Payment terms – This is where requirements such as T&Cs, but T&Cs in any email or other you will say if you want to take when problems arise there is no correspondence and if possible a deposit, when the balance legal framework to fall back on. should be paid and what happens attach them to your letters and T&Cs set out your terms and emails. Have a copy on display if payment is not received. You conditions of trading. So while should include fixed time limits for in your shop and perhaps in the your question relates to your fitting room too, and if you have a payments and perhaps consider customer – the bride – it is vital website, then make sure there is a an interest charge for late to also consider the T&Cs you payments, which could be decided copy on your website. may be bound by with, say, your Some people also print a copy at your discretion. suppliers, which may affect your on the back of their invoice. If business if they are too onerous. in any doubt, seek professional l Timing – This should cover You have asked about a how long it will take you to make/ advice. It will be money well spent. template. I know how tempting it can be to click onto a DIY website, supply the dress and accessories. Need advice? Contact Suzanne on: Consider here what will happen if fill in your details and have a set you are let down by a supplier. You suzanne@affinityresolutions.co.uk of T&Cs to download, or to copy may want to include a sentence to 07377 710875 those of another business. This affinityresolutions.co.uk cover that to protect yourself. may be a cheaper option, but the
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F IND YOUR
DREAM DRESS
MOST VIEWED… BRIDAL DRESS STYLE Y21745 AQUILA BY SOPHIA TOLLI We love the tiered tulle skirt – it’s a perfect match for the plunging sweet-heart bodice adorned with beaded lace appliqué.
Digital snapshot
F I ND Y
DRE DRE
WHAT YOUR BRI DES A R E SHOPPING FOR O N LI N E We look at what trends brides are searching for this month on findyourdreamdress.co.uk MOST READ… BLOG FEATURE WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MERMAID, TRUMPET AND FITAND-FLARE GOWNS? Never assume prior knowledge. It seems that a lot of brides are swotting up on dress shape terminology!
MOST SEARCHEDFOR… DRESS SHAPE PRINCESS Princess gowns remain a sought-after shape at the moment. Does this ring true with your customers?
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WHAT IS FIND YOUR DREAM DRESS? Brides-to-be can use this super-helpful website which allows them to filter various categories in order to find their dream dress in among FYDD’s database. Then, the site tells the brides where the nearest boutique is to them that stocks their dress of choice. If you’re a designer and you’d like to see your collection of gowns featured here, or if you’re a boutique owner that would love to have your business included in the search results, then visit findyourdreamdress.co.uk to find out more. Alternatively, drop Laura an email at laura@meanttobemedia.com.
MOST SEARCHEDFOR… DESIGNER ENZOANI Brides keep coming back to Enzoani, month after month. The class, the quality and the beauty that sits within their dress designs are clearly appealing to ladies all over the UK.
MOST VIEWED… MOTHER OF THE BRIDES DRESS STYLE 991155 BY RONALD JOYCE This dramatic contrast of white meeting floral dress pattern is proving popular with mothers everywhere.
MOST VIEWED… PLUS-SIZE DRESS STYLE W375 BY ALLURE WOMEN No wonder this is getting hits – just look a the way this gorgeous gown accentuates natural womanly curves.
MOST VIEWED… BRIDESMAID DRESS B193004 BY JASMINE B2 This crepe dress (in the pretty colour ‘dreamsicle’) is lined with netting at the neckline, which goes over the shoulder for back straps. Brides are loving it, right now!
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DO US A FAVOUR, LIFESAVER DO US US A A FAVOUR, FAVOUR, DO DO US A FAVOUR, LIFESAVER LIFESAVER LIFESAVER Anthony Nolan saves the lives of people with blood cancer – and by choosing from the charity’s new range of wedding favours, youNolan can help lifesaving Anthony savessupport the livestheir of people with work. blood cancer Anthony Nolan saves the lives of people with blood cancer – and by choosing from the charity’s new range of wedding – and by choosing from the charity’s new range of wedding favours,Nolan you can helpthe support their lifesaving Anthony saves lives of people with work. blood cancer favours, you can help their lifesaving work. – and by choosing fromsupport the charity’s new range of wedding favours, you can help support their lifesaving work.
LIFESAVING'S IN LIFESAVING'S IN LIFESAVING'S IN OUR DNA OUR DNA DNA OUR LIFESAVING'S IN OUR DNA
“Following my leukaemia diagnosis, I was unsure “Following my leukaemia diagnosis, I was unsure I’d live to see my wedding day. Without Anthony “Following mymy leukaemia I was unsure I’d live to see weddingdiagnosis, day. Without Anthony Nolan mymy stem cell donor I wouldn’t be here I’d liveand to see wedding day.IWithout Nolan and my stem cell donor wouldn’tAnthony be here today. They’ve given me an opportunity to live.” Nolan my stem cell I wouldn’tto be here today. and They’ve medonor andiagnosis, opportunity “Following my given leukaemia I was live.” unsure today. They’ve given me an opportunity to live.” Ruth and her husband, Peter, I’d live to see my wedding day. Without Anthony Ruth and her husband, Peter, celebrated their long-awaitedwedding weddingininMay May 2017. celebrated their long-awaited 2017. Ruth and her husband, Peter, Nolan and my stem cell donor I wouldn’t be here celebrated their long-awaited wedding in May 2017. today. They’ve given me an opportunity to live.” Ruth and her husband, Peter, celebrated their long-awaited wedding in May 2017.
Visit Visitthe theshop shopat:at: Visit the shop at: shop.anthonynolan.org shop.anthonynolan.org
shop.anthonynolan.org
ELLIS BRIDALS
BUYIN G AGEN DA Source the big names and the bright newcomers at the forthcoming events
29th-30th July H ARROGAT E FASH ION WE E K
21st September W E D D I N G FAS H I O N P RAG U E
harrogatefashionweek.com
wf-prague.com
9th-11th September
7th-9th October
TH E H ARR O GAT E BR IDAL S HOW theharrogatebridalshow.co.uk
T H E K N OT CO U T U R E S H OW, N E W YO R K coutureshow.com A U G U S T 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 101
COMING NEXT MON T H IN THE
September issue • Time for a revamp? A retail expert is on the case • UK Bridal Week, a new show, a new chapter in bridal • Accessories, shining examples for the new season
LADYBIRD
• The retail landscape: working together to made bridal independents strong
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I NDUSTRY
Classified From job vacancies to new closures or relocations, you’ll get the lowdown on opportunities and announcements here N E WSFLASH P O S T- M E G H A N R E AC T I O N When’s this post-Royal Wedding rush going to happen? According to some boutique owners, no such rush has occurred at all (flick back to p38 for our Best-Selling Dresses feature). The BBC, however, have found some different answers. Google Trends stated that the total search interest for boat neck clothing increased by an incredible 269 percent the week after the wedding (compared to the week before). Google searches for Stella McCartney, the designer of the duchess’ halterneck dress for the evening, saw an increase of 139 percent. Micky Bruschini, the manager of a bridal shop in south west London, said that while a more plain-style dress is “becoming more fashionable”, she also admitted that “a lot of brides weren’t amazed by it [Meghan’s dress] and were a little bit underwhelmed. It didn’t have the same reaction as Kate’s”. Is the hype train over?
having come to the end of its lease. They have decided not to renew, but plans are in full-motion for the next step. The company are keen to retain Does your store cater to women a presence in Cheshire and have such as this? Or could you do more to found what they call “a fabulous shop” make your boutique more wheelchair- in nearby Altrincham. This premises friendly? Do you have fold-away is being renovating right now, with ramps in case there are steps within the aim being to open doors in (or outside) to negotiate? How big are September. We’ll be keeping our eyes your changing rooms? peeled for of opening day! VAC A N C Y Perfect Bridal Rooms, a longestablished, award-winning bridal business in Aberdeen, Scotland, have a vacancy for an experienced bridal seamstress at the moment. Please send application with CV to perfectbridalrms@aol.com.
CLOSURE – VIVA BRIDAL We were sad to hear that as of 1st July, Viva Bridal in Woking has closed.
STOC K IST S E A R C H
LOVE OUR WEDDING The UK’s favourite free monthly consumer magazine, Love Our S PECIAL O CCAS ION S Wedding, is looking for more boutiques across the UK to stock their magazines free of charge. These 2ND ANNIVERSARY Congratulations are in order to Cardiff- handbag-sized magazines are perfect for you to gift to brides that come in based bridal boutique Pritchard and store or for goody bags at special Moore for not only marking their events. To become a stockist now, second year in business, but also because they have raised a whopping email andy@meanttobemedia.com. £150,000 for Cancer Research Wales. We’ll send it in the same delivery as your copy of Wedding Trader! RELOCATION – JENNY PACKHAM The Jenny Packham showroom is WH AT A B OU T M E ? being refurbished at the moment, DISABILIT Y DRESSES so they have moved their base to Do you have news of your own that you Each and every bride will endure the Jenny Packham headquarters want to share with the rest of the bridal a tough journey to find their dream (effective immediately) within world? Just celebrated an anniversary dress, no matter what shapes or size touching distance of Hamstead Heath of your store opening? Have you closed they may be – but it can be even in London. Good luck with the refurb! a store, or perhaps moved to a bigger, harder for women with disabilities. shiny new premises? Maybe you’ve won Cosmopolitan recently ran a feature RELOCATION – SUZANNE NEVILLE a snazzy award and you can’t stop about Zoe, a former double-amputee Suzanne Neville and her team have smiling? This is the place to be heard! Paralympian, who is size 24-26, and announced that they are closing their Send us your news by emailing the struggles she had to find The One. Wilmslow-based boutique, with it tom@meanttobemedia.com. A U G U S T 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 105
“They say that ‘good things come in small packages’ and this couldn’t be more true than for Wedding Trader! This petite but perfectly formed trade publication certainly punches above its weight, packed full of incredible articles and insights from industry contributors, providing a voice to both retailers and suppliers, sharing their knowledge and expertise, offering diverse and challenging points of view relative to all who read. Susi and her team Wedding Trader will certainly go from strength to strength.” Debbie Johnston, Deborah Rose Agencies
“A great new publication for the trade in our industry. Practical information without all the fluff; honest up-front write-ups from industry leaders, Wedding Trader is on my radar as a ‘must-read’ to keep up to date with industry news and forward trends.” Rebecca Baddeley, The Dressing Rooms I am loving Wedding Trader – it’s very much on the pulse of what’s happening right now in the industry,and it collaborates well with us retailers on all subjects, which again so very interesting and informative. Thirty years ago – back in the day! – there was no magazines or forums, so I always felt a little isolated. But now with Wedding Trader I feel part of a fantastic industry being so well informed on what is current.” Maria Kelly The Confetti Box
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“Wedding Trader is an informative, easy read; there is a stack of current and interesting content in there. It is so great to read other retailers’ points of views on certain matters that relate to us all. We are all in this together and as much information as possible helps us all achieve.” Joanne Stott, Y.A.P. Bridal Boutique “In these difficult trading times ,when budgets are being scrutinised carefully and pinched back where possible, we find Wedding Trader is our best route to market in every aspect. Targeted at bridal stores, with excellent editorial content… In our opinion, this is by far in a way the best bridal magazine/ medium than any other trade magazine.” Billy Fitzsimons, Allure Bridals
...and finally We’re delighted to hear that you’re all enjoying Wedding Trader. But don’t just take our word for it – here’s what you’ve all been saying
“For us, Wedding Trader is an honest and direct platform, bringing bridal retailers together to face the issues that effect and unite us.” Rob and Andrew Pearce Creatiques Bridal Boutique
“Finally, it feels that the gap has been bridged and suppliers and retailers are all on the same page, working and talking together. Susi and the fabulous team have recognised this in abundance and created a monthly handbag explosion of fascinating insight, construction opinions, hints, tips and captivating reads. Truly inspirational!” Jeanette Stevens, Managing Director, Enzoani Europe
“Having a mix of regular contributors like Laura Daly, and then hearing from industry experts from retailers, suppliers and others in the very topical YPOS monthly piece is great. The recent one on the thorny question of discounting reminds me of a module on my seals training course, where I use Monopoly money to illustrate how little profitability there really is in a dress. Amazing how they ‘get it’ when you start asking the bridal consultant to keep giving you money for VAT, delivery and so on…” Maria Musgrove, The Pantiles Brides
“Loving Wedding Trader – it’s perfect for wedding gossip on the go. I’m appreciating all the advice from suppliers and fellow retailers; it makes you realise we all experience the same problems and can work together to find solutions. I am even considering building my own website inspired by the last two issues!” Emma Hartley, Emma Hartley Bridalwear A U G U S T 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 106
W W W. S U Z A N N E N E V I L L E . C O M
NOW
AVAIL AB
LE IN
F IND YOUR
THE U
DREAM DRESS Use our handy tool to search through 1000’s of dresses online for all the bridal party, then click to find your nearest stockist!
www.findyourdreamdress.co.uk
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