Wedding Trader - issue 9

Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

The High Street debate continues WE CANVAS OPINION ON THE FUTURE OF INDEPENDENT RETAILING

DLY PROURTING SUPPO H BRITIS EAR LW BRIDA ILERS RETA

SOLE MATES STEPPING OUT IN STYLE WITH THE LOVELY RACHEL SIMPSON

ISSUE NINE • OCTOBER ’18

THE NEXT BIG THING

WELL, WHAT’S IT TO BE?

VIVA ESPAÑA SAY HOLA TO THE

BRANDS THAT MEAN BIG BUSINESS

SAME SEX WEDDINGS SOMETHING TO SERIOUSLY CELEBRATE

SLEEVES

GOING TO NEW LENGTHS, AND ANYTHING BUT PLAIN

FREE SAMPLES FOR QUALIFIED ACCOUNTS Apply online: www.dessy.com/retailers

– introducing –

BRIDESMAID

For more information contact Michele O’Neill email: michele@dessy.com or call: 0845 838 1041 www.dessy.com

RO M A N T I C A BRITISH BY DESIGN

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

For Trade Inquires please contact: sales@nicolespose.it | ph. +44 7508 724 671 www.nicolespose.it |

contents

TOP SPANISH DESIGNERS, P22 We’re off to sunny Spain to marvel at their superb designers, including Jesús Peiró

WH AT ’ S WHER E 13

TALKING P OINT The latest headlines and need-to-know news stories within the bridal world

50

B E LGIAN SW E E T T R E AT S Two labels from MRFG that make statementmaking style top of its list of priorities

19

I N MY OP INION 54 GU IDE TO… P LU S S I ZE Laura Daly on dealing with complaints from All of the key labels offer great-looking unhappy brides – before they escalate ranges for women with real curves

22

VIVA ESPAÑA We go to sunny Spain to cast our eye over the hottest must-have collections

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60

T HE NE XT B I G T H I N G We quiz six designers about the changes in the way we work as an industry and what the future might bring…

T HE ESSENSE OF B R IDAL The Essense of Australia portfolio is hugely 64 SIX OF THE BEST… SLEEVES popular among boutiques right now, so we These designs embrace a delicate and decorative take a look at their 2019 range nature, providing style, function and beauty

28

T HE WED 2B D EBAT E Your own opinions on how to challenge the bridal juggernaut that is WED2B

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36

UK BR IDAL WEEK Event Director Gary Barbe fills us in on the basics for this new major annual trade event

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39

YP OS Been villified on social media? We asked the trade associations on how to tackle it

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A GOOD NIGHT’S SLEEP Maria Musgrove-Wethey’s training programme could be the answer to your sleepless nights INTERIOR DESIGN TIPS Terry Moore dishes out some great décor advice to boost the effectiveness of your shop floor DIFFE R E NC ES D OW N U N D E R How does the Australian bridal industry compare to the UK? What’s the same? What can we learn?

LE PAPILLON BY MODECA

ONE STEP AH E AD Rachel Simpson talks to us about how she creates and designs her fabulous shoes

STRAIGHT TALKING Emma Meek, boss of Miss Bush, is confident and opinionated – there’s lots to learn from her views

OCTOBER 2018 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 7

w w w. e nzoa ni .co m

CO NTACT US

Ed’s Letter

Editor Susi Rogol

Heavyweight stuff this issue, with from-the-heart opinions and from-the-head advice. What’s key to our formula is that the opinion and advice in question is delivered by people you know within this industry of ours. They have something to say and while you may not agree with all their views, they will get you thinking. As one retailer said to us: “This is a mix of underpinning some of your own thoughts and challenging others; I have learned more about dealing with the challenges of this industry this way than I ever imagined possible.” If you’d like to get in there and share/shout, just drop me an email.

Our follow-up debate piece about the choppy high street waters has introduced yet more perspectives on the retail landscape and some positive attitudes that are reassuring. Suppliers and stockists working together and setting new guidelines bodes well for a brighter future.

Enjoy this issue. We think it’s a goody!

EDITOR SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND

TEAM TALK Tom Harrod Production Editor “Reading the parallels in the Australian bridal market was interesting, but better yet, learning about the differences.” (p88)

Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Andy Allen Art Director “I can see a lot of bridal boutiques taking on board some of Terry Moore’s tips regarding interior design.” (p84) Nardene Smith Advertising Sales Consultant “Reading what designers think will be the Next Big Thing was fun – we’ll have to check back to see if they’re right!” (p60)

The High Street debate continues WE CANVAS OPINION ON THE FUTURE OF INDEPENDENT RETAILING

DLY PROU TING SUPPOR BRITISHEAR W BRIDALILERS RETA

THE NEXT BIG THING

WELL WHAT’S IT TO BE?

VIVA ESPANA SAY HOLA TO THE

BRANDS THAT MEAN BIG BUSINESS

SAME SEX WEDDINGS SOMETHING TO SERIOUSLY CELEBRATE

SLEEVES

GOING TO NEW LENGTHS, AND ANYTHING BUT PLAIN

WT9 test COVER_4aa.indd 1

31/08/2018 21:31

Cover image: Jesús Peiró CONTRIBUTORS Stephanie Allin, Nicola Ball, Mike Cahill, Helena Cotter, Laura Daly, Christine Dando, Regine Ellis, Neil Flatley, Nicola Garton, Alan Hannah, Gill Harvey, Neil Kent, Steve Lang, Tabby Lee, Richard Lill, Carrie Marsden, Emma Meek, Maria Musgrove-Wethey, Michelle Parascos, Jade Pepperell, Ellie Sanderson, Rachel Simpson, Stephen L Sidkin, Christine Skilton-Sinclair

Production Editor Tom Harrod tom@meanttobemedia.com

Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com

Advertising Sales Consultant Nardene Smith nardene@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07957 372276

Sales Executive Martha Cooke (maternity leave) martha@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07877 449122

ISSUE NINE • OCTOBER ’18

SOLE MATES STEPPING OUT IN STYLE WITH THE LOVELY RACHEL SIMPSON

susi@meanttobemedia.com

@WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader

weddingtradermag.com

Trader WEDDING

Wedding Trader magazine is distributed to hundreds of the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is a new trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

MEANT TO BE MEDIA Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 68a Oldham Road, Manchester M4 5EE. Tel: 0161 236 6712 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish: F IND YOUR

LOV E OUR

DREAM DRESS

OCTOBER 2018 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 9

na re Lo

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TAL KING POINT The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now S HOE-BE-DOO

THE 21ST CENTURY BALLGOWN It will be love at first sight when you see this dress, so just imagine your brides’ reactions! A wonderfully billowing ballgown skirt is kept structured with a perfectly constructed bodice. The lace illusion sleeves reveal a low V-neckline, designed for curves. In sumptuous beaded lace, this is the perfect dress for the bride wanting maximum impact while staying completely comfortable. Another winning from Ellis Bridals, style number 12320. +44(0)20 8888 8833 info@ellisbridals.couk ellisbridals.co.uk

The Spring-Summer 2019 collection by award-winning Rachel Simpson has a relaxed, laid-back feel inspired by the fun of summer. Leathers are buttery soft, heels are low, embellishments are lighthearted, and every style carries the brand’s signature intricate design. The collection centres around a summery pastel stripe of ice cream colours including lemon yellow, mint, powder pink and baby blue. Six new styles join the Rachel Simpson family, with three new handbags to complete each look. The ever-popular floral theme continues with handmade 3D embellishments, and is joined by new oversized satin bows and pretty polka dots.

Discover more about the lovely Rachel on page 44.

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NE WS F R O M C H A RLOT T E BA L B I E R Time to meet the talented new designer of Charlotte Balbier Bridal. Tabatha Lee worked closely with Charlotte (now a full-time mum) after completing her degree in textiles for fashion design at Manchester School of Art. When Linzi Jay bought the Charlotte Balbier name and formed The LJ Group, Tabby moved over to the new HQ and into the designer role for the brand. Tabby’s work takes inspiration from previous collections and what the modern brides of today want. Said Sarah Shaw of Confetti Bridalwear, Tring: “Tabatha’s first collection, picking up the mantle from Charlotte, has kept the Balbier vibe of fashion-forward , innovative and interesting design, still keeping those all-important romantic pieces. I look forward to many collections to come. Very well done, Tabatha.” The LJ Group is now looking to widen its distribution abroad – so more challenges for Tabby lie ahead. Keren Lister, meanwhile, is the new CB sales rep. +44 (0)3332 346420 cbsales@linzijay.co.uk charlottebalbier.com

WHEN FAKE IS FABULOUS TreeLocate has been manufacturing and supplying artificial trees, flowers and foliage for 25 years and has an established reputation for premium grade products with an incredibly realistic appearance.

The company offers everything from small tabletop orchids, to soaring Majesty palms – in between that you’ll find something to dress up you boutique and – just think – no more changes of water required or wilting flowers on display. +44 (0)1668 219219 info@treelocate.com treelocate.com

SERVING YOUR BRIDES We fell for this Rosenthal mug because it looks – well – bridal. It is called Studio Line and is available through Zangheim, an online tableware and accessories shop representing top European accessories.

Check out all the delights sisters Libi and Pinky, founders of Zangheim, have gathered together at zangheim.com.

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Super Bellissima A NA ME TO WATCH: N E TTA BEN SH AB U

Eddy K’s Milano collection has it all. Amazing open sleeves, deep keyhole back, cling-fit. Red carpet glam that sends out all the right messages.

Israeli designers get ever-more adventurous.

Netta BenShabu, a classically-trained artistturned-designer, has taken inspiration from old Hollywood glamour, European high fashion and her love of painting, art and sculpture for her Une Fleur Sauvage collection. Byzantine high-end Italian and French lace with gauzy floral patterns are accentuated by crystals, appliqué, sheering and feathers can be found throughout the lavish line. +1 305 930 5571

THE N EXT BI G T H I NG When asked what she thought would be the next big thing, one of our all-time favourite designers, Stephanie Allin, came back with this: “At the moment I am seeing two contrasting trends emerging... Complete simplicity – luxurious plain silks, minimal detail and ultra glam, and on the flip side brides are loving feathers, tassels, clashing prints and 3D details. What our current brides want the most is the timelessness of a simple, elegant dress with an impeccable fit and being able to dress it up with capes, shrugs, belts and overskirts.” Read what others have to say on the subject, on page 60.

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ST UNNING

GRE AT LO O K S , FAB PRI C E D E A L True Bride had just launched a brand new capsule collection of bridesmaid dresses under its Essentials label, and according to reports the stockists are loving it already! The starter pack of six dresses in six designs will set you back just £375, this and includes four complimentary mix-and-match belts. RRP for the dresses is £175-£199, and there’s a delivery promise on ten selected colours of just six weeks. +44 (0)1273 728637

The concept of the bridal gown reinvents itself for the millennial bride: adaptable, interchangeable pieces within this glorious collection allow the bride to create her look with separates that can be worn again and again after the wedding, for a continued celebration. In Alessandra Rinaudo’s Urban Age Capsule 2019 Collection, fabrics are luxurious – cady, silk, silk satin, net-embroidered lace with crystals, sequin-embroidered lace with silver lines, sequins forming fringing, organza silk jacquard. The colour range is pared down to ivory, neutral tones. This is our idea of creative design heaven. +44 (0)7508 724671

Young ladies will love...

Little Peony is a range of fashion-forward flower girl and Holy Communion dresses made in luxurious fabrics with beaded guipure lace motifs, sheer backs with crystal buttons and 3D flower details. These are the sort of dresses every little girl dreams of wearing – with wonderful full skirts with layers of tulle and organza, and some even have trains that add to the princess feeling. Mandy of June Peony says she has had an amazing reaction from her own boutique customers, and that’s encouraged her to sell this delightful collection on to other bridal shops. +44 121 454 8778 16 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ O C T O B E R 2 0 1 8

PRISCILLA

www.morilee.co.uk

Affordable luxury for every bride

For further information please contact our authorized distributor: Krystal Bridal Agency, Michelle Blackburn | EMAIL sales@krystalagency.com | PHONE +44 (0) 7935 156 275

T RES C HIC B RIDAL W EAR . COM

In my opinion Unhappy brides can make your life a misery; you need to deal with complaints and threats carefully before they escalate. Read Laura Daly’s views here, and those of the various trade associations on page 39

O

wn a bridal shop? Have a virtual high-five and hearty congratulations… You’ve made it through another summer! With the glut of wedding dates still falling between May and September, it’s only now that the rollercoaster ride we’re all on begins to slow down enough to allow us to take stock of what we’ve just gone through. No doubt, for us all, there will have been many thrills and, of course, the occasional fright along the way.

Every year the customer service bar sets itself higher Expectations get increasingly impossible to meet and seamstresses all over the land go into mental melt-down and turn to drinking and rocking in corners.

When your brides decide you’ve got it right, five-star reviews, flowers, cards, presents, beautiful pictures and recommendations come flooding your way. When a bride decides you’ve got it wrong, the gates of hell open up before you. It’s all your fault… And what are you going to do about it? Please notice the deliberate use of the phrase ‘when a bride decides’.

I don’t believe that there’s a shop in the land that was opened with the intention of displeasing or mis-selling to its customers. Equally, I don’t believe that the majority of brides start off their journey actively looking for a bad time; or hating their dress, or the shop they bought it from, or the

seamstress who worked on it for them; or whoever else they end up hating.

However, somewhere in between the tears of joy on the day the gown was ordered and the day the bride (or maybe her mother, or her sister) threatens to leave a stinking review on social media, there will inevitably have been a hiccup of some kind. It has coloured her perception of your integrity to the point that it has led her to think that she has been mistreated, or misled, or mis-just-about-anythingelse and, therefore, entirely cheated of her right to her princess moment.

she’s unhappy, it’s an almighty uphill struggle to win her back. If she’s not happy with one aspect of your business, she’s likely to be increasingly sceptical about it all.

The same applies to we retailers; despite having countless numbers of wonderfully happy customers, we remember the one bride who found a bead missing from her gown and completely lost the plot; or the one who couldn’t fit into her dress and blamed the dress, rather than her diet.

How do we get through the stress unscathed? Firstly, don’t ever take it personally. Try to imagine that the anger is directed at a situation and I don’t believe there is a not at you. Acknowledge the problem. shop that was opened Clearly, something needs to be resolved, however silly or minor the with the intention of problem may seem to you. Also, keep in mind that family relationships don’t displeasing its customers always run smoothly – especially in This hiccup may or may not have the build-up to a wedding. A mother been caused by you. Probably not. But calling to say that her daughter isn’t it will most definitely be up to you to happy could be a cry for help. Be kind; sort it out, one way or another. And so, be the one who concentrates on the the sleepless nights and working out positive and offers a solution. Smile. of hours commence. You feel sick to Have a written plan of action for any your core, and there’s a sense of panic situation that may arise and refer to it when a private message pings up on often. Don’t be bullied into agreeing Facebook at midnight. to do things that go against your ethos.

Years ago I read an article on Remember, you are the expert. research done in the US that suggests You’re good at what you do, or that the human brain will remember you wouldn’t still be here. In fact, negative situations over positive you’re great at what you do. You’re a ones. Once that bride has decided superstar. Get out there and shine!

O C T O B E R 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 19

O B

OPULENCE BRIDAL DESIGNED BY HANNAH GARDNER

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

FRONT ROW SEATS Make sure to arrive ahead of time to get a good seat for the catwalks

INMACULADA GARCIA The two recurring themes in Inmaculada’s latest collection are Romantic... and Gold

MARCO & MARIA Unsurprisingly, this flamboyant collection is loved by celebrities

R OUN D THE WORLD

VIVA ESPA ÑA Spain has long been regarded as a hotbed of bridal design talent, with new names constantly emerging and joining the long-established trend-setters on the global stage Visit Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week and you never fail to be stunned and delighted with the quality of the country’s home-grown talent.

There is much to impress even the

most hardened of buyers – just when you think you’ve seen it all, up pops a totally new interpretation of a classical look or, better still, a design concept that is so far removed from the traditional that it actually can be classed as ‘unique’. (My literature teacher at school said, in our very first session: “Never use the word unique unless you are 100% certain that what you are referring to is the only one of its kind.”)

In Spain, originality is key on the bridal catwalks; it is rare to see an overlap of design ideas and each house has its own special character and style for the season.

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ISABEL ZAPARDIEZ This San Sebastian designer is passionate about detail – among her hallmarks is the use of a wide variety of fabrics and the reinterpretation of the classic patterns of haute couture. Her dresses are timeless and sophisticated, a subtle blend of traditional and avant-garde elements.

Many of her cuts are architectural with contrasting volumes achieved through a combination of fabrics and lavish embroidery that includes pearls, and origami-style folds of fabric used as appliqués. In the new collection sleeves and necks are underscored with bows and colours include pink,

ISABEL ZAPARDIEZ This designer’s passion for detail is evident in every dress she creates

from pale to bubble-gum bright, beige and gold, and deep shaded geometrics. The Perkins neck is a truly stylish feature. +34 943 42 45 37 isabelzapardiez@isabelzapardiez.com isabelzapardiez.com JESÚS PEIRÓ Impeccable tailoring, crisp clean lines and understated detailing add up to the signature that is Jesús Peiró, a brand that celebrates 30 years at the top. Renowned for its pursuit of excellence, every dress is individually cut and made in Spain to exacting standards. The newest collection of over 80 dresses moves from

PRONOVIAS The Big One in Spain, with designer Hervé Moreau calling the shots

voluminous ballgowns that have a sense of sleekness – no frills here – to superbly-cut mermaid gowns and the most beautiful simple crepe dresses that speak volumes of chic. Check out youtube.com/watch?v=5GNemFik8zY for a sneak peek. +353 87 6487531 marionmathews@me.com jesuspeiro.com PRONOVIAS This is, of course, the Big One. Producer of wedding gowns, occasionwear, accessories – you name it. With world-wide distribution and its lavish own-name stores, labels include Atelier Pronovias, the haute

couture range; the diverse own-name collection that is broken down into distinct style groupings, such as boho, romantic, modern and classic; Privé, which blends pattern and embroidery to create new silhouettes; the strikingly contemporary One Collection; and Pronovias Plus which puts a whole new emphasis on curves.

And if you haven’t already fallen in love with the separates collection, you will at your next viewing. The newest ranges are glammed up and gorgeous, with wonderful mixes of fabrics and textures. +44 0845 0987047 RMiller@pronovias.es pronovias.com

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JESÚS PEIRÓ There are over 80 dresses in the latest collection, from mermaids to ballgowns

Ot h er n a m es to l o o k at … a n d l ove Cristina Tamborero cristinatamborero.com Novia d’Art noviadart.com Raimon Bundó raimonbundo.com Sophie & Voila sophieetvoila.com YolanCris yolancris.com

are distinctive with cuts at the hips INMACULADA GARCIA There are two distinct themes running and waist, crew necks and round necks, skirts with volume and heavier through the latest collection by this trains. There is no excessive über-talented transparency – the look is designer.

The look is clean, clean, simple and leans on Romantic, simple and leans on the classical, with some which uses particularly pretty sleeve natural fabrics the classical, with treatments. and silken textures – some particularly pretty +34 933 687 981 info@inmaculadagarcia embroidered sleeve treatments inmaculadagarcia.com tulle, gauze, organza and MARCO & MARIA lace; and Gold, where silk, fantasy This is a label loved by the celebs. tulle with embroidery, pearls and Actress Helen George chose one of stonework, silk crêpes, plumeti tulle and Chantilly lace feature. Silhouettes the twosome’s fabulous gowns to

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wear at the Queen’s 92nd birthday party concert in April in the at the Royal Albert Hall. In plissant silk tulle, it was topped with a cloak embroidered with crystals that were ‘hung’ to represented rain drops.

Another Brit, Tallia Storm, wore Marco & Maria at the Cannes Film Festival. And then there are all the Spanish fashionistas who adore the exuberant style of the label. Look at the collection and you’ll understand the appeal – it is brave, romantic, and with detail piled on detail. +34 922 385 155 info@marcoymaria.com marcoymaria.com

e anit Tan z

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THE ESSENSE OF BRIDAL

...and something for the girls Earlier this year, when we asked retailers across the country which of their labels were selling best, an amazingly high number quoted one from the Essense of Australia portfolio.

Recommendations don’t come much better than that!

Here’s a summary of the 2019 collections

Essense of Australia According to the boss, Chief Creative Officer Martine Harris, lace continues to be top choice, along with the various textures associated with boho styling. So expect to see more cotton-based and edged laces fused with layerings of fine French lace, for an organic, multidimensional feel. True glam comes in off-the-shoulder gowns with the must-have ‘tattoo’ lace detailing across the back.

+44 0800 961140 info@essensedesigns.com essensedesigns.com

THE CREATIVE FORCE Martine Harris, above, knows exactly which direction she wants to take for each of her labels 26 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ O C T O B E R 2 0 1 8

Martina Liana Customisation is a feature that’s inherent to this label, and one that today’s brides deem vital. Within the collection all manner of changes are possible, from basic hem lengths to sleeve variations, fabrics, colours and trimmings. Even bodices and skirt shapes can be redefined, giving a bride exactly what her heart desires.

Stella York Cool, contemporary and perfectly priced to be accessible, this is redcarpet dressing at its best and loaded with fabulous detail. Laser-cut trains and hand-placed graphic laces are a feature with figure-hugging fitand-flares, and narrowed plunging V-necklines part of the stylish line up. Full pleated skirts with pockets promise to set new trends.

Sorella Vita This multi-award winning bridesmaids collection lets the girls mix and match styles, colours and fabric, always ensuring that they tell a brilliantly co-ordinated story. The line is fashion-savvy, focused on luxe fabrications – including rich satins and mikado, chiffon and tulle – with stand-out detail making every piece is special. And the great news is that there are gowns cut down to size, to dress even in smallest of maids.

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D E BATE

2B or not 2B?

designs with high-quality making from real hands-on designers. Some of us still design and manufacture in the UK and can offer much faster delivery times than China.

At Alan Hannah we have some very good selling styles that can be produced to individual order in two weeks… Now that’s fast fashion!

Yes, the price point is higher than the average spend, and this sector of the market can’t support thousands of retailers – but it is not competing with the WED2B demographic.

On the supplier side, this means Alan Hannah If this sounds like a plug for our the death knell for some suppliers Bob Dylan once put his finger right own company, there are many other who are neither manufacturers nor on the pulse when he sang The British designers – including Sassi Times They Are a-Changin’. These are designers, but merely shipping Holford, Suzanne Neville and Charlie agents for the Chinese factories. apt words for what our industry is Brear – who still produce amazing Theirs is no longer a tenable facing now. Few can say that WED2B dresses here in the UK. doesn’t affect them – the high street way to operate – WED2B will now Okay, so not all dresses can be corner half of the market for generic group’s turnover shows that they wholly produced here (including dresses, but while there is probably have taken a massive bite out of the some of our room for a market at the expense An independent boutique own MiaMia copycat rival, of independent retailers and, as a it will need result, suppliers, too. can survive if it has a strategy and Rita Mae collections), but millions in Yes, independents can do things investment. to make sure that they are going to that makes it different from we would assert that these labels Independents be one of the reduced number still WED2B – such as offering are innovative cannot compete operating, but there is an existential by selling threat to the existing model. It’s a original, innovative designs and ahead of the curve, not just similar dresses stark reality that WED2B has just offering predictable ‘product’. Thus, at a higher price point. Consumers cut the supply chain for generic again, they have a point of difference, are savvy and won’t have it. wedding product in half; massbut at a very competitive price.

An independent boutique can produced Chinese dresses now go There are some amazing designers survive if it has a strategy that makes from factory to shop floor with no making their dresses in China who it different from WED2B. One way is middleman. Nothing can alter this create original designs at a lower by offering original and innovative fundamental process of theirs.

Last month, Simon Parry opened the door to discussion on the future of independent bridal retailers in the current choppy waters through which WED2B appears to be sailing. Hear the responses… And add your own

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what you want from them. Try to hold change unbelievably. Getting that price point, which are unique and some stock of your popular sellers so sale is harder today, no doubt interesting. Go to Harrogate and whatsoever. Harder doesn’t mean that you can have some off-the-peg find designers who are in love with impossible, though. availability instead of just ordering design and who can give you their My advice to Independent bridal countless, different, confusing years of experience and expertise retailers is don’t be despondent; it’s and who create and foster collections choices. This can entice customers a waste of energy which have a personality and point of who feel a little difference. They do exist.

Being despondent is a waste and customers can sense it a mile off. intimidated by While the high street is still the traditional of energy and customers can Instead, focus on dominated by massive chains, they are increasingly challenged by a new consultantsense it a mile off. Instead, how you can make your business led approach, wave – thousands of independent focus on how you can make better. those that shops selling anything from ethical Be aware of like to be able jumpers to hand-made cards and your business better any competition, to browse artefacts. Some are high-end and but don’t fixate on them. All the time first with the possibility of buying some are low, but one thing they you are worrying about what other something there and then with the have in common is that they are chance that they can buy a new dress people are doing is eroding and offering something with personality chipping away at your hard work in their own size that day. and wit. The democratising space as you strive to make your own Unlikely? This is the way women on Instagram and other platforms business a success. buy the rest of their wardrobe these enables them to connect with a Large, multinational companies days. You may even get a discount potentially large audience for very have, if anything, given us a wakefrom suppliers! little financial Try to hold some stock of up call. Brides today are very savvy Create a investment. when they shop. If a bride chooses to great human Be individual, your popular sellers so that relationship with buy a dress in a WED2B, they may not creative, customeryou can have some off-the- more national have been your customer anyway. Do your homework. and local centred and peg availability instead of suppliers and I guarantee 100 percent that you offer something different. Work ordering countless choices creators and you cannot beat a specialised bridal appointment in a fabulous bridal will be on the as a team with boutique. Historically, it’s what we your designers and don’t stock more front foot and not just defending an are famous for. Make that your focus. outdated model. than four-five collections. Designers Consider specialising. I worked with value loyalty and appreciation a client recently who does just that.

Helena Cotter of their designs and will bend Her sales are rocketing.

In my 15 years as a leading industry over backwards for you if you I believe in today’s buying climate, communicate properly and tell them trainer, I have seen bridal retail O C T O B E R 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 29

how many stores WED2B will roll out is yes, then roll up your sleeves and giving everything to your customer, over the next quarter. study the WED2B model. bending over backwards and never The customer journey, upon However I suspect most boutique saying no has been detrimental to becoming engaged, generally begins business. After all, the big boys offer owners will answer that as ‘no’. with three initial actions – seek Aside from paying the bills, nothing like the experience you do – advice from friends, tap away into they’re in this to enjoy the roller and they sell a lot of dresses. search engines and read consumer coaster that This begs wedding media (print, online and the question: You’re not trying to compete comes with social). You can have an impact on all running your Are you trying with WED2B at a strategic own business, three of these actions with an easily too hard? Can manageable marketing strategy. And to reap the you rein in your level, you have a different it doesn’t cost as much as you think. rewards of hard service without overarching commercial Firstly when it comes to search graft, to have compromising engine marketing (a PPC – pay per a comfortable customer objective and different goals click – campaign), WED2B will be retirement care? You most spending thousands per month and deliver a certainly can. on their campaigns… But you don’t product and service that makes Sometimes, less is more. need to. By analysing, tweaking and customers smile. So, if you’re not monitoring a simple PPC campaign, trying to compete with WED2B at a Neil Kent blogging regularly and having an strategic level, you have a different It’s easy to be threatened by SEO copywriter review and update overarching commercial objective businesses like WED2B seemingly your website, you might not be the and a different proposition. swallowing up the entire industry. number one search result (Google There are only so many brides in However, I feel we need to apply prioritises higher spenders), but your catchment area who are going some perspective to the issue. you can easily be to visit your WED2B has done a fantastic job on the first page since rebranding from The Wedding store. You’ve You don’t need to spend on desktops and done the Dress Factory Outlet in 2015, and thousands on a PPC mobiles. sums when with solid investment behind them, you first set their growth trajectory is clearly campaign. Work on your SEO Likewise, a PR campaign could the business only going one way. Their business model is based on one of scale – and up and went and blog regularly to get on be as simple as putting together cap in hand the larger they grow, the larger the Google search pages your predictions for to the bank resources they have to grow further. next season’s bridal Like ’em or loathe ’em – commercially manager, so go back to that thought process and fashion, taking cues from designer they are doing a fine job. hot-spots like the US, Australia and update it based on today’s figures The question independent the Middle East. Send it over to an (your local census or the ONS are retailers must ask themselves is editorial team and see what they helpful resources). Your concern is this: ‘Do I want to have 30-plus how to attract and eventually convert say. You might be surprised by their stores nationwide and be running a those customers, not to worry about reaction. And finally, crucially, is those £20m-plus business?’. If the answer 30 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ O C T O B E R 2 0 1 8

keep ‘selling’ this philosophy through brides to the ‘bridal experience’ all platforms. and her entire marketing campaign was social media-led. We fought l Upscale with economies of scale. back with a charge for Saturday WED2B has the advantage of being appointments and seeing fewer able to employ experts and has a brides. We left behind our print huge marketing reach. We chose advertising and to join Luxe woke up to the We carry the best British and Bridal, which digital world! is a fabulous international designers that group offering l Define your market and can be seen in one boutique great support; a joint-marketing drop designers. and offer an end-to-end presence WED2B knows its like this is market and taps luxe experience far stronger into the bargainthan any independent boutique can Maria Musgrove-Wethey basement bride and the ‘I want it achieve attempting to go it alone.

Complacency kills! Seven years ago now’ millennial mentality, facilitated I was Little Miss Smug. I thought by its short supply chain. My goal was that I had all the best labels in my Neil Flatley to maintain profitability, so I decided two Tunbridge Wells boutiques, and The whole WED2B issue has, without to drop designers with unrealistic when approached by new designers I minimums and work with suppliers doubt, shaken the market to the core would condescendingly reply: “Don’t who are responsive and with shorter and given overseas manufacturers, call me... I’ll call you”.

UK-based wholesalers, designers lead times. Our strategy was not to Imagine, after 15 years of and, of course, retailers, plenty of compete, but to complement the controlling the other boutiques anxiety and sleepless nights. area, not one but It is often the initial stages of and not to try WED2B is a disruptor; we two new shops something like this that causes the to appeal to need to learn from it. When every bride. opened on my panic and hysteria. The market will turf! Little Miss always settle down after adjusting to l Competitive a geographical competitor advantage.

Smug morphed the changes. into Mafiosa But what will be left? shook things up for us, we WED2B knows Maria, and this Scenario A is that WED2B will it, trains it and had to enter the digital world! promotes it. We implode due to rapid expansion is what I learned and how I can at too fast a pace, and the lack of defined ours, relate to the threat now posed by control and stock/margin issues which was to carry the best British WED2B... and so on. Look at the example of and international designers that can Pronuptia 20 years ago with over 70 be seen in one boutique with an l Disrupt or be disrupted? WED2B stores – where is it now in the UK? certainly are a disruptor, and we need end-to-end luxe experience with an Scenario B, on the other hand, is in-house fitting service. Now defined, to learn from it. If we don’t, then we that WED2B will continue to expand we eat, breathe and sleep this and will die. My competitor introduced word-of-mouth recommendations.

There’s nothing quite as sweet as when a customer comes through the door as the result of a glowing review from a friend they trust. You have been receiving these for years and pride yourself on them, so you have this one nailed.

In summary, I believe that independent retailers need to keep their heads down and focus on their customer base, their customers’ journey and the immediate impact they can have upon those customers.

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and to tear into the turnover of Keep it fresh and updated as much the independents. Maybe there is as your actual front window. New room for a chain of stores such as images are always good.

WED2B and a strong and aggressive l Use and collaborate with your independent sector. suppliers – they need you to For too long now you could argue succeed. Trunk shows, special offers, that there have promotions etc, been far too Many retailers are selling but do them many bridal together, as a samples to close the sale. joint-force. stores, so maybe a leaner, This is often below margin more punchy Ellie Sanderson and professional Without and results in lost sales independent question, WED2B until the sample is replaced is delivering bridal sector can make what our current brides realise what buying a wedding supply chain struggle with – on-trend dress is really all about, and what product to go. a professional retailer can do for The millennial generation has them. Yes, they may charge for grown up in a ‘see it now, buy it now’ appointments, but look at what you culture. The bridal market has shifted get for such a small sum of money. significantly since bridalwear has I’ve seen some small towns with become more readily available on as many as five bridal retailers in the the high street. We have not kept up. same area, competing for the same Brides truly struggle when we brides. I don’t see that in any other discuss a six-month lead time... and sector. Maybe that five can become rightly so; it is archaic. I am so lucky three, or two? Collaboration may be to work with some brilliant British the key. labels who can turn dresses around My tips would be: quickly, but this is very unusual.

Thirty-five percent of my shop is on l Keep the paid-for appointments. a three-to-six-month lead time and The policy makes you stand out as that’s the issue here: it is impossible being confident in your product and to explain that to a bride. your service.

I am fearful of the future. The l Concentrate on the ‘uniqueness’ of your products, contra this to the pile- current business model is broken and we need to realise that and adjust it it-high-sell-it-cheap versions. l Your website is your front window. fast. It won’t fix itself.

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Currently our designers showcase products in March and retailers have to wait until September/October for the samples to be delivered. This opens up their designs for plagiarism.

These copy cats often end up in front of the consumer before we have our samples – the knock offs are manufactured abroad in weeks and shipped in days.

I work with many retailers from a coaching perspective, and most are selling their samples to close the sale and compete with this new culture.

This is often below margin and leaves a gap in the store with lost sales until the sample is replaced.

I would love to say that holding some stock would be an option, but this simply doesn’t work with our business models. The supply chain needs a major overhaul to reduce its time line from order to delivery.

I’d also love to say that there are many things that retailers can do, but I firmly believe this challenge sits with the supply chain. I believe retailers need to remain focused on delivering a first-class experience, and above all, offering an in-house fitting service is vital.

Off-the-peg bridal retailers and WED2B cannot offer this. It’s only a matter of time until this is being discussed far and wide as an epic fail.

We’d love to hear your thoughts. Email them to susi@meanttobemedia.com.

For stockist enquiries please call 020 8533 5520 or email monika@lapoesie.co.uk Modern, fashion led and exclusively silk bridal gowns made in London at www.lapoesie.co.uk

www.philcollinsbridal.co.uk

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NEC BIRMINGHAM

1 2 - 1 4 M AY 2 0 1 9 U K B R I D A LW E E K . C O . U K

Enzoani

UK BR IDA L W EEK answer that they gave us was that this was their preferred dates for such an event to take place.

With the London Bridal Show and White Gallery in March, the long-standing Harrogate event in September, and all those Bridal And why Birmingham?

Road Shows, is another event like Currently there is no centrally-located this appropriate? And if so, why? show that the whole market can visit Our research and knowledge of the easily. Did you know that 75 percent market tells us that for a considerable of the UK is within three hours number of exhibitors the spring shows driving time of the Birmingham NEC? are just too early. Many manufacturers That makes the exhibition hugely are simply not ready with their final, attractive, whether you’re planning edited collections at that time. to travel by train, plan or car. The Also, we have to consider that the market itself has changed Why have you gone for the dates you NEC is just a five-minute walk from Birmingham International railway dramatically in recent years – the have chosen, 12-14 May 2019? station; Birmingham Airport is right on move to producing one key collection UK Bridal Week will fall exactly in the doorstep, making travel really easy a year, not two, is paramount to the the middle between the spring and autumn shows. After consulting with a for international visitors; and for drivers development of an increasing list of brands in today’s market. number of our exhibitors, the recurring there are 16,500 parking spaces.

The newest show on the buying circuit is already creating great interest. We asked Event Director Gary Barbe to fill us in on the basics

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WHAT DESIGNERS WANT This event will occur in between the spring and autumn shows, which should please designers

In addition to the shifting emphasis on production, a single collection means there is less need or reason for a brand to bear the costs of exhibiting numerous times.

same roof and be able to make the most efficient and effective use of their buying time. We listened when many shops complained about having to traipse from one hotel to another in addition to visiting a main show.

At UK Bridal Week there will be staged catwalk shows on the first two days of the event, a Business Advice Centre, and a Designer Pavilion. We will also have a Champagne Bar and restaurant in the hall itself.

How many exhibitors are you hoping to attract into the launch event in May, and covering which sectors?

We are looking at 70 to 80 exhibitors, which means more than 200 collections. The latest bridalwear, occasionwear, bridesmaids, menswear and accessories will go on show at UK What about show visitors – will there be special travel and Bridal Week. accommodation deals for them?

We have a special arrangement with What are you offering visitors that the NEC hotels. Exhibitors booking will be different? early will be able to personally invite One of the key advantages is that all their customers; we will provide gratis exhibitors will be in one place. There hotel rooms on a first-come-firstwon’t be any companies doing their own thing separately in nearby hotels, served basis. competing for buyers’ attention.

What other products are in the Retailers will see everyone under the

United Fairs portfolio?

European Bridal Week in Essen (30 March-1 April 2019), is now in its fifth year and with 300 collections. Rome Bridal Week, launched this year and already with twice the floor space for 2019 (23-25 March); Rome Fashion Week, also coming up for its second edition – 22-24 June 2019 – after an acclaimed introduction this year. And we have BridalBiz magazine, with versions dedicated to each show, each published twice yearly, in English and also German and Italian.

How will you be spreading the word?

In our own publication, BridalBiz, in Wedding Trader, via our new website and through regular newsletters.

Contact Gary Barbe: +44 (0)7908 653 364 gary@ukbridalweek.co.uk ukbridalweek.co.uk

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YPOS

YO U R P R O B L E M S O U R S O LU T I O N S Been vilified on social media? We asked industry trade associations and a legal expert for a view on dealing with blatant attacks online “I want to know how others deal with spiteful social media and forums comments. One bride starting criticising my shop, our service, our product selection and most of all me, within a week of her wedding. She said that the dress she bought “didn’t live up to expectations” on the day (she had had three fittings and collected the dress a week before her wedding – no complaints at any time). I can’t help wondering if her day itself was less than expected and she has chosen to take it out on me? Whatever the reason, she has been telling people to stay away from me and even got local press involved. How does one deal with this sort of situation? I have never been so miserable…”

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We have all experienced this; wounding, hurtful criticism. Words so barbed, so unjust that I can go back to the exact spot on the internet to find them, five years on…

“I would thoroughly advise NEVER buying a dress from Emma Meek Miss Bush after experiencing MD: Miss Bush Creative Director: Luxe Bride the worst customer service

fuss – usually the object was a discount either prior to and after their wedding.

There is nothing new in unjustified complaints with the aim of financial reward.

I robustly defended A mauling of our product, the criticism from 2013: I service and reputation. have beautiful images of The review seemed so injurious at the time. Before the acid-tongued bride in question looking incredible; the multiple channels of online criticism, brides were she was a late order, and she paid the contractual always known to kick up a from the owner that I have ever come across and outrageously expensive alterations.” The Review Centre, 28 October 2013

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amount for the alterations.

However, every single aspect of our order process, our price point, our alterations service, our client service, our client communications and recording of every agreement, signed off quotes for alts, pre-booked fittings is radically different five years on. The bride wasn’t ‘right’ per-se, but Miss Bush’s procedures were not fit for the modern world of bridal retail.

Like Thatcher, I broke the unionised feel of the workroom. I overhauled every aspect of procedure and put the customer, not the seamstresses, front and centre of our focus.

In 2013 Miss Bush was delivering great products – now we deliver a spiritually and emotionally enriching experience with great products. I needed the

slap in the face, figuratively speaking, to change. And here’s a recent review: “My Miss Bush Experience has been so wonderful. I adore the vibe at the chapel, I had such fun choosing my dress with Emma and her daughter and the team.”

Miss H-S 21 August 2018 I still get bad reviews; the last three bad Google reviews were from people who didn’t buy dresses.

One was just weird, another was a case of inverted snobbery and the last factual, but annoying. Our crime, seemingly, was to have two people in a shop together – a fact that is covered in our preappointment handbook. It’s also more ‘TripAdvisor’ as all three were reviewing us on our capacity to entertain as an appointment venue

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Stephen L Sidkin Partner Head of Commerce and Technology Fox Williams LLP, Solicitors

rather than a service or product provider.

Nevertheless, my team and I have scrutinised them and learnt from them.

My tips for handling the emotional pain and the reputational damage of a bad review are as follows…

Acknowledge and own the criticism A customer who had criticised you online has not had a proper line of communication with your company ahead of their bad review. They may not have complained because they didn’t want to upset themselves before their wedding. Or they may have felt unable to complain in person or been given the opportunity. Brides find articulating complaints particularly difficult because they are emotionally attached to their dress.

Even if the end game of their online criticism is to blackmail you for a refund, the bride’s relationship with you is such that they feel this is justifiable.

Regardless of whether there is a genuine compliant about a product, the online complainant is highlighting a failing about your client communications and procedures. Acknowledge the complaint politely online and invite the client to email you directly with their issues.

Break it down and review the history of the order with the client with your team.

Do not start a public argument with the client in forums, review centres or on social media channels.

Vent and moan Go to your private, closed trade forums to vent and moan. Mention nothing

down’ progress.

The comment may be If not, consider whether there considered as libellous. an opportunity However, libel is not an to reply to the commentator? If easy claim to make and this is the case, it results in legal fees you may choose to take up that The comment may be opportunity. However, considered as libellous. beware of throwing more However, take note: libel is wood onto the fire – if you do not use sensible wording, not an easy claim to make, you might do more damage and invariably results in than good to something that significant legal fees.

The comment may also might otherwise Reply to the comment? You have been a five- constitute a criminal offence.

The police, on the other second wonder. may do more damage than Depending on hand, may not view it in such a way. Even if they do, spiteful is good to something that how matters will be out of your spiteful, the other might have otherwise been options involve the hands – a prosecution will be law. How, you ask? something over which you a five-second wonder do not have control.

Let me explain: No one wants to be the subject of spiteful social media and forum comments.

However, in the circumstance when such an event might happen, you should look to see whether the particular social medium on which the comment appears has a ‘taken down’ policy.

If so, you may have to explain why it is that the comment in question is spiteful in order to make ‘ten

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sweet caring soul who loves dresses, but this makes you vulnerable. In the words of Danielle Steel: “A bad review is like baking a cake with all the best ingredients and having someone sit on it.”

I chose this quote A Sociopath? because it is inherently Sociopaths are, by definition, people with little female. I understand how or no conscience. They will this would turn someone The Social Media Effect into a tearful Bake Off lie, cheat and manipulate I have had friends in others for their own benefit. contestant. You need to wedding-related services remove your cake from this Far from wanting to be in who have received dangerous possibility! print claiming that brides complaints based on a Letting a client leave to be are sociopaths, I bride’s perception of their ‘thinking’ they are happy merely suggest, much like wedding after seeing is different from ‘knowing’ photos. One complaint was when you realise you have been conned, there are just they are happy. My to a florist, because the suggestions may sound flowers did not look as good unscrupulous people in bureaucratic, but they the world and it is time to as the Pinterest images. open opportunities for sharpen up your business The other complaint was practices to make it hard for communication and confirm to a make-up artist, where the bride wasn’t happy with them to hold you to ransom. you legal position under the umbrella of excellent her size. customer service.

Finally…

Despite being happy on Prevention is better than You may have had a bridal the day, they did not look cure. like the social media images shop because you are a to other clients or friends outside the industry. Only other small business owners in the bridal trade will truly understand how this makes you feel, but to save the reputation of your business and the trade as a whole keep it on the down-low.

they had become obsessed with. Get your collection forms signed and there is less chance of comebacks and more chance to address any worries ahead of the wedding day.

Checklist: Must haves l A watertight legal contract l A handbook l A complaints procedure that is publicly available l A written record of all fittings l Signed off forms and agreed quotes and estimates for all products, fittings and services l Photographs of the bride in the dress at all fittings from checking to collection l Collection forms l On the day and post wedding care information l An invitation to leave a review – so you can oversee a negative review before it goes public luxebride.co.uk/membership

3

Nicola Garton Owner: The Wedding Shop, Colchester Chair: RBA

to-face meeting, anything to but arguing back will only Social media can prevent any further damage add fuel to the fire. You open up businesses online to your reputation. to a world of criticism need to establish exactly and in some cases, the criti- what happened, the reasons Hopefully a solution can be why they are feeling disap- found, but as complaints cism isn’t even based pointed with the service you and disputes become on facts. Sometimes it’s increasingly common offered and what can be simply a customer with a with bridal shops, grudge who wants their sometimes – however voice to be heard.

Try to encourage the frustrating it is – you Being quick to bride to continue the won’t be able to please acknowledge any comeveryone. plaint is paramount. conversation with you in What is most crucial One of the main is ensuring that poreasons customers post private, to prevent any tential customers who negative comments further public damage may read a negative online about a business review or comments is because they believe online, see how well you done to make it right. they are not being listened as an owner dealt with the Once you have made an to and want to lash out. initial interaction online, try complaint. Learn from the See the complaint from mistakes made and put to encourage the bride to their point of view – avoid steps in place to try to avoid any argumentative interac- continue the conversation a future dispute escalating in private, whether this is a tion. It’s hard not to take to such a high level. severe criticism personally, phone call, email or faceO C T O B E R 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 41

Disputes and complaints are incredibly stressful to bridal shops and it can be hard to see clearly and what action to take. The RBA pride itself on offering continued support to its members and invaluable advice.

One of our strongest member benefits is free legal advice through the DAS legal helpline. Before any action is taken during a dispute or a response is made to a bride’s complaint, the DAS legal

helpline is a great starting point. It’s completely free and is always on hand to advise you on your next step, giving you much needed peace of mind in stressful situations.

Our members have access to the RBA closed group forum, where they can ask each other for advice and chat to other shops who have dealt with similar disputes and how they resolved them. This can take a huge weight off bridal shop owners and

road, because you may find yourself in a scenario where you are “damned if you do, and damned if you don’t”.

The problem is that you are dealing with a ‘silent assassin’, one who is not basing their attack on fact. Key to your winning this ‘battle’ is sticking to the facts and not being scared to put your side of the discussion across in a factual dispassionate way, acknowledging the other Richard Lill party’s view and correcting it.

Lionheart Portfolio When someone takes Vice Chair: BBSA to social media, then they have to understand the consequences and you have to do what you need to do One of the many benefits of the BBSA to protect your reputation, is that we have a vast name and business.

You need to know the knowledge pool, based on hundreds of years combined motivation behind the attack and, once you do, the best experience, and we are way to tackle the problem always on hand to offer and which buttons to press advice and help to all our for maximum impact. members.

This is an upsetting and unfair situation and one that Richard’s tips is difficult to resolve; it is l You can contact a solicitor also one I have had personal who will send a ‘cease and experience of. You need to desist’ letter, stating that if prepare yourself for a rocky they do not undertake to

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know they are not alone!

Members can also contact Consumer Dispute Resolution Ltd (CDRL) as part of their membership.

In an event where a dispute cannot be settled by the bridal shop, Consumer Dispute Resolution (formerly The Retail Ombudsmen) can step in to help and will also keep you completely upto-date on all legislations coming in that may affect our businesses. By engaging with Consumer Dispute

Resolution, retailers can put difficult complainants at arm’s length while they investigate their complaint.

They also provide a legal advice service, so it is another welcome benefit to RBA members. rbaltd.org.uk/contact

stop and/or retract what they have said, then you may take legal action against them.

happy brides whose dreams you have made come true over the years.

l You could contact the administrators of the social media platforms and canvas to have negative comments removed; however, the problem you face is that with every ‘Share’ and ‘Like’ the post receives, damage could ripple out further.

l The other option is the hard one. Take on board that you can’t deal with this behaviour and let it run its course. Remain dignified and rise above it. Believe in how good you are.

A godsend and a curse I hope all ‘keyboard warriors’ take heed of your situation and think before they make l You could contact the misplaced and untrue local press. They have a comments on public or responsibility to report the private forums/platforms. truth and there are always two sides to every story, so Once things are out there, you have a right to put yours they can never truly be retracted and the culprits over, too. they need to understand the damage they can l You could consider cause. Social media is a placing a statement in the godsend and curse in equal public domain naming the measures. Stay strong. person concerned and bridalsuppliers.co.uk/ correcting the information contact they have put out.

If you decide to go down this route, do it keep your comment calm and transparent. You may be surprised at the support you receive from many

This is not just an issue restricted to the UK – it happens globally. We also got the opinions from our friends across the pond on how they tackle such problems

5

Steven Lang CEO Mon Cheri Bridals President: ABPIA (American Bridal and Prom Industry Association)

This is a tough spot to be in, because it’s important to acknowledge the customer’s feelings while at the same time you still want to protect your business from what you feel is an unfair review.

I would suggest that the retailer should remain polite and keep their reply simple, short and sweet.

They should also specifically acknowledge the customer’s concerns, sincerely apologise and thank them for providing this very important feedback.

Point out the positive reviews you’ve received from the numerous weddings that you have successfully dressed and explain that you’re equally disappointed along with her that her event did not go as expected.

Explain that being in this industry for numerous years, you know just how significant the big day is for the bride. Reassure her that the issue has been resolved for the future, and you could consider offering a small discount or freebie to them, to welcome the reviewer back to dress her for her next special event.

It’s very important to avoid including your business

name and location in the reply. This makes the negative review less likely to be prioritised and found in search engines like Google.

You do no want other brides, unaware of said review, to stumble across negative press when they’re searching for your boutique.

Finally, the retailer should insist on moving the conversation offline so that they can give the customer the one-on-one attention she deserves. abpia.org

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FOCUSED ON FASHION Rachel Simpson has her own sense of style

One step ahead Rachel Simpson is a big name in footwear. The first to focus on vintage, her work moves from toe-tapping classics with added sparkle to modern little sole mates and irresistible accessories Background please, did you train in shoe design?

I did a BA (Hons) in Footwear Design at DeMontfort University, after a BTEC Art & Design Foundation at the University of Central England.

Your first job?

I left uni and set up my first company as a freelance designer – my first job was for a lovely shoe company called Rombah Wallace, which was set up by the ex-directors of Bally. I was there for three years and owe a lot of my success to my boss there, who I remain great friends with today.

How exactly did you set up the business in terms of finding production?

I put together a portfolio of designs to illustrate the kind of shoes I’d be producing, and had a pricing strategy in mind. I took this to the MICAM footwear show in Milan, where I spoke to a number of potential factories before finding one who was willing to take a chance on me, and I flew out to Spain a couple of weeks later.

I also had a number of contacts already, having worked in the industry for several years prior to setting up the business. And through one of

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them, on that same trip, I met the guy who is still our agent today!

What research did you have to do?

Most of my background research had already happened naturally while I was working for myself. I knew there was a gap in the market and what people liked from my bespoke work, and I’d had extensive experience in production from working with shoe factories all over the world.

Why occasionwear shoes?

I’ve always favoured an elegant style of footwear design and, looking back, my final collection at university was very bridal. When I designed and made bespoke shoes after setting up on my own, most of the commissions I received were for weddings or special occasions, so it was a natural progression. I think it’s the one time

GO-TOGETHERS The bags in Rachel’s 2019 collection form the perfect partnership with her shoes

to go with a print effect, it will almost Where is your production team and always be something we’ve designed how many of them are there?

Our shoe factory is hidden away in the ourselves rather than taken off the shelf, so that would be exclusive to us. hills of Alicante in Elche. It’s a familyWhen and where did you first run factory, and most of them work launch? Was it terrifying?

How many styles are there in any one Although I started selling to wholesale in the business alongside a number collection and how many collections highly-skilled pattern cutters and in August 2008, it wasn’t until the are there a year? shoe makers. Our handbag factory October that I officially launched the We launch two collections a year. brand at The National Wedding Show is also in Alicante, about half an hour away from our shoe factory, in an area Our main s/s range will typically at Earls Court in London. be around 10- 12 called Elda.

It was funny – I was so excited to styles, and our finally get everything off the ground, When I set up and smaller capsule Where do you go but on the first day I suddenly felt made bespoke a/w collection will to source things really, really nervous! It was the introduce around six strangest feeling; you’re very close to like materials and shoes, most of the styles. In between your designs, so it’s like you’re putting trims, and so on? yourself out there for everyone to see We source all of our commissions I received we’ll often drop in a limited-edition (or materials locally in exactly where you’re coming from. were for weddings additional colourway) Spain, and our trims to keep the collection Do you design everything and pass it are either from our incredible Spanish supplier (who also fresh and incorporate emerging over to your team of crafts people? works with high end brands including trends.

Our designer, Katie, and I design Louboutin), or our fellow British everything, and typically we’ll go How many stockists do you have in designer Laurel Lime, who handover to our factory in Spain and work makes trims and accessories, like hair the UK, and how many abroad? through each style with them. combs and jewelled shoe clips for us We have around 25 stockists in It’s much more productive than the UK, and just a shade under 60 right here in the UK. emailing a design over, because stockists overseas. we can go into every detail before Is much of your materials exclusive beginning the pattern cutting to What sort of order is a shop to you? ensure we’re all on the same page expected to place to get exclusivity?

Materials, no. But how we use them, and that we all understand exactly We ask for a minimum initial order definitely yes. Although if we decide what each shoe is about. in life when everyone wants their perfect pair of shoes.

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DOWN TO DETAIL Candy-coloured stripes, dizzy little dots and swirls of metallics are the stand-out details for 2019

of £2,000. Any less than that and the collection doesn’t really work – we find that brides tend to want to try shoes on then and there rather than having to wait ages for delivery, or being forced to try something in completely the wrong size. The perfect fit is what everyone is always looking for.

it’s something we’d love to get more involved with. If our stockists or show stylists have ideas then we’re always ready to listen and work with them.

Tell us about your additions – how did accessories come into being under your branding?

We’ve been doing accessories for many years now, and they’re really popular with our customers, which You exhibit at different consumer events – does selling direct to brides is fantastic. Shoes and bags are a at shows or online, create a problem natural combination, and our shoe clips and hair accessories are great for your retailers? for finishing the look.

We actually don’t attend consumer shows any more, but not because What are you RRP ranges? it caused any problems with our stockists. We’ve sold at both retail and Shoes range from £195 to £259, bags from £129 to £149 and shoe clips from wholesale ever since the company £75 to £89. started ten years ago, and as long as you’re transparent and have a clear How do you get your message out pricing strategy, it works well for to retailers and to consumers? And everyone because you’re working your blog post – how frequently do together as one brand. you add to it?

I update the blog as often as I can. We Have you ever considered having don’t have a strict number of posts a different collection to go through per week – the most important thing retailers? is that the content is interesting and We’ve run exclusive styles for organic. independent retailers before, and

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What is your all time fave RS shoe?

Tricky one- I love different styles for different reasons. I’m quite attached to Mimi, because it’s been in the collection since the very beginning and it sums up the understated elegance and style of the brand.

The new collection – what’s the story there?

Ice cream colours, stripes and dots...This collection is all about a celebration of summer. I’m delighted that it has been beautifully captured by renowned photographer Emma Case, at Dreamland, the iconic English seaside funfair in Margate, Kent.

An important element to the photoshoot was the brand’s decision to use real couples rather than professional models, to really capture the happiness of getting married. Two couples were chosen from a selection sent in as a result of a popular Instagram campaign.

Rachel Simpson Shoes +44 (0)121 433 5492 info@rachelsimpsonshoes.co.uk rachelsimpsonshoes.co.uk

Phoenix Gowns

To see the full collection and find your nearest stockists visit: www.phoenixgowns.co.uk email: info@phoenixgowns.co.uk @PhoenixGowns

Belgian sweet treats You want to stand out? The lines you carry can make a difference, elevating you from one of the many to something in a class of its own. Take a look at these two labels from the Belgian house MRFG that puts statement-making style as key to its offering

M

RFG stands for Marylise & Rembo Fashion Group, and the name stands for bridal fashion extraordinaire. This is the house that introduced V-neck sweaters to bridal (well okay, they were of the finest cashmere) – and took catwalk stories down the aisle.

Edgy would be a good description.

Adventurous another. Convention does not get a look in, thanks to the design dream team of Geraldine, Manon and Ruth, each with their own individual approach, their own personality, their own unique vision. The three come together and creative sparks fly.

Let’s talk about them for a minute, because when you understand where they’re coming from, you’ll understand where they are going.

Geraldine: this Parisienne launched her first capsule collection for MRFG in 2011. It was fresh, unaffected, and a big, beautiful hit. There’s no place for frills in her work – she wants a bride to be as comfortable and relaxed in her chosen gown as she would be in a favourite t-shirt.

Manon is all about ‘natural romanticism’. Her look is refined and detailed – think underplayed girliness fused with subtle sexiness – and haute couture features coupled with finishing touches without the heavyweight price tag.

Ruth is the youngest of the team; she joined MRFG right out of college

Edgy would be a good description of MRFG… Convention does not get a look in, thanks to the design dream team – the famous Fashion School of Antwerp. Since 2014 she’s been bringing her rock ‘n’ roll sense of cool into the design equation.

Been to Barcelona Bridal Week?

Seen Marylise and Rembo Styling performing in the fashion show arena?

There is no mistaking star material when you see it – or when you hear the applause that greets it. By

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bringing together different designers and building a collection that encompasses varying perspectives, the result is a powerful collection that ticks every box.

The seamless way in which the various divisions of the business come together has created a unique production process. “Designed with passion in Belgium. Made with love in Portugal” is MRFG’s appropriate slogan – the design trio fosters creativity; prototypes of each style are made up by a team of dedicated pattern makers, seamstresses and finishers in Belgium; production is handled by the company’s specialist manufacturing unit in northern Portugal.

It is hardly surprising that this is a company that engages with its retailers and their brides, but, more than that, it has cultivated a global network of photographers, wedding planners, caterers, graphic designers, stylists and more… in short, people who are close to brides’ everyday life, so that information and mood boards are exchanged frequently. Something we can all learn from.

KEEP AN EYE OUT There will be lots to see at Barcelona – over 300 companies will be showcasing their wares

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TWO Qs TO MRFG...

How do you advise retailers to make the best of your collections in store?

Our dresses need to breathe. They need to hang with space around them and on nice hangers. It is always good to put two or three of the dresses on a mannequin, so that brides can see the flow of the skirt and the fine details immediately.

Most important – sell them with love.

If you love them, brides will love them, too.

How best should retailers deal with the current challenges?

The bridal industry is conservative and in need of innovation, and it needs to be more creative and challenging to secure the future of the stores and the labels. However, only some young and motivated people seem to have a new and modern vision. We need to consider certain factors such as the mix of cultures and the digital generation; technology and fashion change faster and faster. The bridal market is always a couple of steps behind.

Why not be first?

Rembo Styling Especially striking in the new collection are the graphic star motifs that feature in gowns as well as the mix-and-match bodies and skirts. Lots of boho influences here that are cool, with flow and combined with a sense of modernistic luxury. The volumes are sometimes fairytale, sometimes sleek and sensual – fabrics fall smoothly and have the feel of a second skin.

UK RRP: £1,100 - £1,900

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Marylise Ultra contemporary and always chic, from gowns with a soft, feminine touch to sharp-cut trouser suits and short-to-long hemlines that make a statement, with the implementation of nude tones.

In addition to the core range, a ten-piece capsule collection has been developed in collaboration with French bridal house, Victoire Vermeulen.

RRP: £1,100 - £1,800

MRFG +32 14 75 25 25 mrfg.be

THE WED D I N G TRADER GUIDE TO

Gowns for real curves

Hard to believe that ten years ago there was just a handful – and a small one at that – of designers and manufacturers who recognised the value of catering to the plus-size sector. Today all the key labels have woken up to the opportunities and are offering great-looking ranges that put fit and fashion styling as key priorities

ANGEL CURVES Style: AC035 Fabric: Tulle and lace Size range: UK 18+ RRP: £1,000 T: +44 (0)20 8368 1500 W: angelbride.co.uk

CALLISTA BRIDE™ Style: Richmond Fabric: Embroidered tulle and organza Sizes: UK 10 – 32, made to measure RRP: £1,500 T: +44 (0)1909 774471 E: michele@callistabride.co.uk W: callistabride.co.uk

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CHRISTINA WU LOVE Style: 29314 Fabric: Tulle and lace Size range: 14 – 28 RRP: £1,275 T: +44 (0)8707 707670 W: eternitybridal.co.uk

LOVELY WEDDING CURVES

BY NICOLE MILANO Style: CVAB19717 Fabric: Tulle, rebrodé, Chantilly lace Size range: 16 – 34 RRP: POA T: +44 (0)7508 724671 E: info@nicolespose.it W: nicolespose.it

FEMME BY KENNETH WINSTON Style: 3405 Fabric: Embroidered cotton lace Size range: 14 - 28 RRP: Approx £1,345 E: victoria@privatelabelbyg.com W: kennethwinston.com T: +44 (0)1765 530282

JUSTIN ALEXANDER SIGNATURE Style: 9894 Fabrics: Tulle, beading, jersey Sizes: US 2 – 32 RRP: £2,799 T: +44 (0) 1908 615599 E: info-uk@justinalexander.com W: jasignature.com

TRUE BRIDE CURVES Style: W185 Fabric: Beaded tull and lace over satin Size range: 18 - 36 RRP: From £1,455 T: +44 (0)1273 728637 E: info@truebride.co.uk W: truebride.co.uk

LADYBIRD PLUS Style: LS319028 Fabric: Lace and tulle Size range: 6 - 34 RRP: £1,170 T: +44 (0)1423 876 380 W: ladybird.nl

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MICHELLE BRIDAL Style: MB1901 Sahara Fabric: Beaded laceand tulle Size range: 14 – 36 RRP: POA T: +1 314 344 5066 E: uk@sydneyswholesale.com W: michelle-bridal.com

ENVY BY PHOENIX GOWNS Style: GR5030 Fabric: Lace bodice, tulle skirt Size range: 16 – 32 RRP: From £850 T: +44 (0)1689 831841 E: info@phoenixgowns.co.uk W: envybyphoenix.co.uk

MORILEE Style: 3246 Fabric: Tulle Size range: 18 – 34 RRP: £1,350 T: +44 (0)1636 700 889 E: info@morilee.eu W: morilee.co.uk

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ROMANTICA OF DEVON Style: Athena Fabric: Lace and tulle Size range: 18 – 34 RRP: £1,010 T: +44 (0)1823 674 412 E: enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk W: romanticaofdevon.co.uk

ROSA COUTURE CURVES Style: Vanessa Fabric: Organza and lace Size range: 14 – 32 RRP: £1,470 T: +44 (0)1189 785078 E: info@rosacouture.co.uk W: rosacouture.co.uk

SONSIE BY VEROMIA Style: SON91805 Fabric: Tulle and lace Size range: 16 – 34 RRP: From £999 T: +44 (0)20 8502 2257 E: style@veromia.co.uk W: veromia.co.uk

VENUS WOMEN Style: 8761 Fabric: Tulle, matte satin, English netting Size range: 0 – 32 RRP: POA T: +44 (0)113 256 9627 E: tony@venusbridal.co.uk W: venusbridal.com

BEAUTIFUL BRIDE PLUS Style: BB19520 Fabric: Organza Size range:18 – 36 RRP: £800 – £1,500 T: +353 1 866 5882 E: info@specialday-ireland.com W: specialday-ireland.com

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A beautiful bridal collection with gowns from ÂŁ160 to ÂŁ299. www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

HALO & CO

TH E NEXT B I G THIN G We’re not just talking silhouettes and fabrics here…

We asked around about changes in the way we work as an industry and what the future might bring 60 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ O C T O B E R 2 0 1 8

ELLIS BRIDALS

We pride ourselves on being ahead of the curve and keeping our eyes open and ears close to the ground.

It’s our job to create the new looks and set trends – that’s what we have been known for throughout our 25-year history.

The year ahead, 2019, is exciting; the industry has had a breath of fresh air over the past few years with new fashion-forward retailers opening and existing stores using their talents to reinvent shopping experiences.

With the world being a global enterprise and business moving at the speed of light, it seems that we may indeed be looking back at what was important.

We have seen a move away from social media and the fastfashion revolution to a place where consumers are looking for a human touch. The internet has played a huge part in all our lives and is not going anywhere, any time soon.

We’ll all admit to being reliant on getting the must-have daily items overnight from the giant companies such as Amazon, but when it comes to that special day, it’s about human interaction and real connections.

Now, having something made just for you and working with an individual seems so very important.

The new generation is looking for virtues of handmade traditional craftsmanship and quality. The keepsake and heirloom mentality of having something special and bespoke is the new driving force of the ever-changing consumer.

The trend is about individuality and bespoke creations. Our 2019 collection is a range of different looks, shapes and materials so that each bride’s vision can be captured, just the way she wants.

Nicola Ball Halo & Co

With millennials shaking up the bridal industry across all fields, bridalwear is transforming. This generation is all about fading away from the traditional and attaching itself to the unconventional. This shift will see brides with a need to break the rules and break bridal traditions.

In response to millennial demand and brides striving to find an outfit that embodies their style, designers will now have to cater to the changing atmosphere with wedding day looks that do the unexpected.

Regine Ellis, Creative Director Ellis Bridals

Marguerite is concentrating on a high couture cut and immaculate tailoring, but using simple fabrics so all the money is going into the cut and complexity of the patterns.

This is the only way we can differentiate from the glut of Chinese dresses, so we are relating this to a bespoke suit, which always has currency and a customer base that is discerning, demanding of skill and expertise and with an element of bespoke choice for the bride.

These dresses cannot be produced in mass numbers on a production line – they are proud, special and niche,

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all the while remaining affordable, at £1,600-£2,900. Our biggest asset is our designer and her experience and creativity, which is unique and only gets better with experience.

Alan Hannah

Photo-ready gowns – they are the exciting explosive influencers.

The effect of TV and social media is instant and more potent than anything I have witnessed in my 30-plus year career, and it will get stronger. The relationship with, and understanding of, media are crucial to a designer’s success.

CHARLOTTE BALBIER

The next big thing? If only we knew! But what we are finding is that stockists are now selling new samples straight away as soon as they come in, and they are also buying two sizes of a dress to be able to sell off the peg to the bride who

is not aware of how long it takes to make a dress and wants to make her purchase then and there.

Gill Harvey, Eliza Jane Howell

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I would love to see jumpsuits and wide leg trouser suits become a big movement in bridal.

Now that times have changed and brides aren’t so traditional any more, I think these will become must-have pieces for either the ceremony or the after party and a modern bride’s big day.

Tabby Lee Designer at Charlotte Balbier Bridal DANDO LONDON

ALAN HANNAH

I regularly appear on Say Yes to the Dress UK and have seen firsthand the effect a dress appearing on screen can have. The gowns are shown from every angle, scrutinised, freeze-framed and looked at over and over again by brides sitting at home. The effect can be explosive both for designer and retailer.

The same effect is seen when a celebrity – whether a big movie name or a red carpet tripper – wears a certain style of gown; an instagram image going viral ensures plenty of enquiries.

Designers should always consider how well their design will photograph, how it will move on film and how it will look on Instagram.

Christine Dando, Design Director Dando London

ronaldjoyce.com CLAUDIA

Sleeve treatments Detail is what counts today, whether sleeves are barely-there illusion, sweet little caps, off-theshoulder or a cascade of fine lace VE RO M IA Style: VRK61802 RRP: £1,450 veromia.co.uk +44 (0) 20 8502 2257 Detail on detail is the story here, with off-the-shoulder tight tulle and lace sleeves that flute out from the elbow to add another dimension of shape and texture – perfect on this lace fishtail.

ST E P HA NIE A L L IN Style: Hudson dress with Memphis shrug RRP: £2,600 stephanieallin.net +44 (0)1792 361477 Going down the separates route, a tailored chiffon dress with a classic sweetheart neckline, topped with a tulle shrug that features lace motifs on the upper arm and deep cuffs to finish the look.

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DE M E T R IOS Style: 823 RRP: POA demetrios.com Bare back and sculpted waterfall sleeves that are more than an illusion! The look is dramatic, the fabric a combination of lace, tulle and chiffon, the colour ivory over nude, the effect is nothing short of stunning.

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M A RT IN T HO R NB URG: A M O N C HE R I CO L L EC T IO N Style: Meghan RRP: POA mon-cheri.co.uk +44 (0) 1954 232102 Cool, classic and contemporary, the master of sleek lines has delivered an immaculately-cut bateau-neck gown in diamond white crepe with elegant threequarter length sleeves... and a court train.

W E NDY M A K IN Style: Pippa-S RRP: £1,499 belladonnabridal.co.uk +44 (0) 7771 542042 From the French Collection by this great Australian designer comes this body skimming number in lace appliquéd tulle, nude over ivory. The motif-scattered sleeves are fastened with three neat little buttons.

BLUE BY E NZOA N I Style: Keaton RRP: £1,350 enzoani.com +44 (0) 1792 572828 A touch of vintage and a blend of boho come together in a chic overlace mermaid gown. The cap sleeves are a special feature –beautifully-shaped – and a sexy keyhole back features, too.

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TEL L ME W H AT YO U WA N T, WH AT YO U R E A L LY, R E AL LY WA N T If a bride feels you instinctively recognise what she wants – not only in terms of her dress, but also with regard to every detail of her big day – she’ll believe you are the best. And she’ll stay with you, says Jade Pepperell, Editor of Love Our Wedding Metallics Metallics give weddings a sumptuous feel, a luxury edge that many brides today are attracted to.

From rich copper to dazzling silver, metallics will give any wedding an opulent gloss.

Metallics are mostly used with the table décor (candelabra, place name holders, tealights and so on), but they are also often seen on the wedding stationery itself.

WT Idea: Add shimmer to your window displays with metallics – everything from huge candlesticks to a carpet of gold or silver petals.

Floral hair accessories And I’m not talking about faux cotton accessories, I mean beautiful fresh flowers – mainly gypsophila, roses and even lavender weaved through updos.

The bridal hair garland is still going strong too, with rings of gypsophila the most popular choice, offering brides a bohemian, natural look.

WT Idea: Liaise with a local florist and get them to host a session in your shop, letting your customers see what is possible.

Pastel bridesmaids For a while now, bright colours have taken a step back from weddings in general, not least with bridesmaids.

Pastel colours have been the hot choice for the plast few years, and there’s no sign of that changing

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LILLIAN WEST

WHITE CHALET STUDIO PHOTOGRAPHY

AVENIR 35 LIGHT

K

eeping up with the latest wedding trends is a tricky business. Why? Because the ever-discerning bride is always trying to create a unique day – a one-of-a-kind that’s never been done before. Sometimes the brides I speak to and write for have a huge budget, sometimes not, but ultimately the need to create a personalised wedding that guests will remember as being spectacular for years to come, is often top of the wishlist. That said, there are a handful of trends that have been popular with many brides this year, and are set to be strong in the seasons ahead, too.

your photos. No bride wants to have her pictures on Facebook and Instagram only to get one or two likes. Spectacular photography is what’s wanted, and couples are willing to part with a ton of cash to make sure they look a million dollars. As a result, the wedding photography business is booming. Regular people who have perfected taking the best Instagram-worthy pics are now choosing to make a career from their creative eye, which can be a good or bad thing!

WT Idea: Point brides in the direction of a top local photographer. Better still, get a photographer to attend a trunk show or Designer Day and do a presentation on what couples should be asking for.

any time soon. If anything, colour choices have become lighter, meaning that bridesmaids wearing ivory, cream and white is actually one of the biggest trends today.

Brides who choose this look for their maids often mix and match the styles of the dresses (different fabrics, necklines, hemlines…)

WT Idea: Most manufacturers have swatch books. Ask for one – or two, or three! – for your boutique.

Charity favours Gone are the days of sugarcoated almonds in a jam jar (thank

goodness!). Brides have decided that spending £1 on a potentially tacky-looking favour is simply not worth the risk, and instead have been putting the money to better use. Many charities offer pretty pin badges on a card to explain that a donation has been made in the guest’s honour. A brilliant trend!

WT Idea: Contact the charities for leaflets and display material.

ENZOANI

KELSEY ROSE

Wow-factor trains Although brides are turning away from full skirts, they still want the wow-factor look that will take their partner’s breath away. Enter the beautiful train; time and time again I see ‘that’ photo from behind with the bride’s gorgeous train elegantly flared out several feet behind her. A breathtaking trend I hope will stay

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for many more years to come.

WT Idea: Today’s intricately-edged trains and veils could be a great window or display talking point.

Lighting Lighting is a big deal this year.

Wooden ceiling beams surrounded with twinkling fairylights to create a romantic vibe; light up giant letters with the couples’ initials; tealights hanging from the trees; lanterns hanging around the outdoor area and lining the pathways on the ground are all popular right now.

WT Idea: Sparklers given to guests in the evening to create an aisle for the bride and groom to walk down as guests wave them. These always look fantastic in photos, too, illuminating smiling faces.

MAXI PHOTOGRAPHY

ALLURE BRIDALS

Fitted dresses Princess gowns seemed to be making a bit of a comeback last year, but it looks like the fit-andflare styles are reigning supreme again in today’s market. We’re seeing around seven out of ten brides opting for fitted, structured gowns in preference to fuller skirts.

The frills of the fairytale wedding have become less appealing to brides – instead, the more modern look is top of the trends.

WT Idea: Carry lingerie that’s works with sleek lines. Jupon, Bianco coconut shies, and croquet are Evento and Patricia Yves have lots to great to keep guests entertained offer that play up the body positives. during the bride and groom photos.

WT Idea. Don’t waste a photo Outdoor games opportunity. Get your guests to take We can’t rely on perfect weather snaps, and the inevitable selfies, and in Britain, but many spring/ get them up on social media. summer weddings tend to include an outdoor games area for their Illusions guests, young and old. Giant Jenga, Illusion necklines and backs are

extremely popular still, embellished with stunning lace motifs or crystals. I don’t see many illusion sleeves, but I would say every other bride or so who submits a wedding to us either has an illusion neckline or back.

WT Idea: Brides nervous about going bra-less? Carry a supply of cleavage tape products (Poirier and Perky Pear are two of the best names) that give lift... and security.

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Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE SEVEN • AUGUST ’18

Ian Stuart

Don’t miss an issue!

ON CHANNEL 4’S MOST-WATCHED LIST

GO AWAY...

HEAD FOR THE BEACH

EMERGING TALENTS NAMES TO KNOW FROM ACROSS THE POND

The Awards

DESTINATION DRESSING – OUR GUIDE TO THE VERY BEST

WHO IS IN THE RUNNING FOR A COVETED TROPHY?

OUTSPOKEN OPINIONS BIG NAMES – POWERFUL VIEWS

Designer-owned bridal stores

Trader Trader Trader Trader HOW THE BIG NAMES HELP THEIR STOCKISTS

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Beat the competition HOW TO ENSURE THAT BRIDES CHOOSE YOU! P33

WEDDING

ISSUE ONE • SEPTEMBER ‘17

THE FUTURE OF RETAIL

INDUSTRY EXPERTS REVEAL THEIR VIEWS ON THE CURRENT CLIMATE

Trade events A HANDY GUIDE TO ESSENTIAL UPCOMING SHOWS

INDUSTRY INSIDER GET UP-TO-DATE NEWS FROM BRITAIN’S TOP BRIDAL RETAILERS

ONES TO WATCH AT HARROGATE TOP EXHIBITORS TO ADD TO YOUR MUST-VISIT LIST THIS SEPTEMBER

Instant style

YOUR BEST YEAR EVER STARTS NOW

PINTEREST-WORTHY SHOP DECOR & WINDOW IDEAS

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

WEDDING WT7_cover 3aa TH.indd 1

ISSUE TWO • MARCH ‘18

Your buying season starts here

Trying for a trophy?

WHICH AWARDS PROGRAMMES ARE THE WINNERS

WHO IS SHOWING WHAT... AND WHERE

BUYERS, BLOGGERS, MARKETEERS DELIVERING NEWS, VIEWS AND HONEST OPINION

BRIDES ON BOUTIQUES WHAT YOUR CUSTOMERS THINK ABOUT THEIR SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

YPOS

SERVICE LIFTS

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

A NEW WAY OF WORKING

Time with Pronovias

HEAD DESIGNER HERVÉ MOREAU IS IN LOVE WITH LACE

EXCLUSIVE! HOW ENZOANI GIVES RETAILERS TOOLS FOR CHANGE

A MATTER OF OF MINIMUMS A THORNY SUBJECT, BUT ONE THAT SUPPLIERS LOOK TO ADDRESS

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

UK Bridal Week A NEW SHOW SCHEDULED FOR 2019 PROMISES TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE

BARCELONA, ESSEN, CHICAGO, NEW YORK, DÜSSELDORF, MILAN: WHAT TO SEE WHERE

Mums’ stuff

IN ATTENDANCE PRETTY MAIDS ALL IN A ROW – THE BRIGHT NEW CROP OF BRIDESMAIDS DRESSES

WHAT THE BEST-DRESSED MOTHERS WILL DEFINITELY WANT

ISSUE EIGHT • SEPTEMBER ’18

HIGH STREET DEBATE WORKING TOGETHER TO WIN BATTLES

Going global

NOT ANOTHER ONLINE OP! IT’S YOUR PROBLEMS, OUR SOLUTIONS. HELP AT HAND WHEN NEEDED

WHAT TOP SUPPLIERS ARE PROMISING THEIR CUSTOMERS

WEDDING

03/07/2018 18:09

ISSUE THREE • APRIL ‘18

LONGEVITY HOW TO BE

LY PROUD RTING SUPPO H BRITIS EAR LW BRIDA ERS RETAIL

DOING WHAT YOU’RE DOING MANY YEARS FROM NOW

A BIT OF BESPOKE GIVING YOUR PLACE A WHOLE NEW LOOK

SUSTAINABILITY IS THE BUZZWORD OF THE MOMENT – GET IT?

Have a ball

TIME TO SHINE

WE PICK THE BEST OF THE GOWNS

Trader Trader Trader Trader

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28/07/2017 17:47

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WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

06/02/2018 14:53

ISSUE FOUR • MAY ‘18

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE FIVE • JUNE ‘18

GETTING IT RIGHT EVERY TIME THE NAMES AND THE LABELS YOU NEED TO KNOW MORE ABOUT

If I was a retailer

VATANA WATTERS GETS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE COUNTER

Two to one

NOW IS THE TIME TO SAY NO

A NAME TO NOTE

AND A LOOK TO LOVE. JOSÉ MARIA PEIRÓ FOR WHITEDAY COMES TO THE UK

HAS THE BRIDE BOUGHT ONLINE? HOW RETAILERS DEAL WITH THE INEVITABLE TEARS

Associations

WHEN DOWNSIZING IS THE VERY BEST BET

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

May I have a discount?

ONE RETAILER ON THE ROUTE SHE TOOK TO TO PERFECT HER ONLINE PRESENCE GROOMS WITH A VIEW WOW FACTOR DRESSING IS NOT JUST FOR FEMALES

06/03/2018 19:17

WHICH ONE WORKS BEST FOR YOU?

SUB-BRANDS WHAT THE MANUFACTURERS HAVE TO SAY

If I was a supplier ELLIE SANDERSON HOLDS NOTHING BACK

SOUTH AFRICA BRANDS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT

Catwalk stars

HOW ELIZA JANE HOWELL AND SAVIN LONDON BROUGHT THE HOUSE DOWN

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WEDDING

WEDDING

WEDDING

My website journey

SHOW NUMBERS SPECIAL FINDS AND NEW DISCOVERIES AT LONDON BRIDAL WEEK

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ISSUE SIX • JULY ‘18

TAKING STOCK WANT IT QUICK? WE’VE FOUND THOSE WHO CAN DELIVER

BUILDING A LUXURY BRAND FIRST, GET YOUR PRIORITIES IN PLACE

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

The High Street debate continues WE CANVAS OPINION ON THE FUTURE OF INDEPENDENT RETAILING

03/04/2018 20:47

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01/05/2018 20:00

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SNEAK PEEK AT THE NEWEST TRENDS

BLUSHING BRIDES OUR GUIDE TO THE BEST OF THE PINKS

SOLE MATES STEPPING OUT IN

With mic in hand

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ISSUE NINE • OCTOBER ’18

THE NEXT BIG THING

WELL, WHAT’S IT TO BE?

VIVA ESPAÑA

Harrogate

STYLE WITH THE LOVELY RACHEL SIMPSON

CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO ON BEING A ROYAL COMMENTATOR

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07/08/2018 16:21

SAY HOLA TO THE BRANDS THAT MEAN BIG BUSINESS

SAME SEX WEDDINGS SOMETHING TO SERIOUSLY CELEBRATE

SLEEVES

GOING TO NEW LENGTHS, AND ANYTHING BUT PLAIN

11/06/2018 10:43

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04/09/2018 15:54

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A L L U R E B R I D A L S . C O M

STRAIGHT TALKING

JESÚS PEIRÓ

Boss of the Surrey store, Miss Bush, Emma Meek is cool, confident, experienced and opinionated. There’s a lot to be learned from her views

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When was Miss Bush was formed and by whom?

In 1988 Miss Bush was founded by Ian and Jean Johnson. The freehold of the original building was bought by Ian and a business partner as a pension fund investment and the bridal retail business was started by Jean, a talented seamstress, as a passion project. It was staffed by Jean’s friends, Gen Gilchrist – my mother – was recruited as an alterations hand when she and Jean met at an adult City & Guilds fashion design course. In 1992, Jean had become disenchanted with bridal retail – too many weekends and too many headaches for too little money. Gen, recently divorced and working in a doctor’s surgery, was approached firstly to work full-time and then was given the opportunity to take over the business, buying the stock gradually, fitting and administrating the existing orders and developing new business.

What are the biggest changes you’ve Weddings and a Funeral in 1994 when seen in the business over the years? Kristen Scott Thomas’ character, the The biggest change in Miss Bush, acerbic Fiona, uttered the withering to be absolutely line: “Scarlett, you’re honest, was me The biggest change, blind, she looks like being the arrogant a big meringue”. to be honest, was me entitled daughter of Unwittingly, this the owner. The cosy contributed to the – the arrogant entitled coterie of women derogatory use of daughter of the owner the word meringue staff who were the same sort of age to describe a as I am now, bought in their packed wedding dress over the past 24 years. lunches in wicker baskets and rarely This was also the infancy of the worked past 3pm. My arrival followed internet era, the dawn of New Labour shortly after the release of Four and Cool Britannia and the rise of the A DIFFERENT PERSONALITY

LEmmas says that Lilly Ingenhoven’s pieces “feel like extensions of my own Sports Luxe and indie wardrobe”

Which labels were carried back then?

I remember Hilary Morgan, Ronald Joyce, Anna Christina, Just Candy bridesmaids, Benjamin Roberts, Allison Blake, Nicki Hill and Patricia Miller. The label everyone wanted in 1993/1994 was Catherine Rayner.

It was stocked by Sweet Dreams in Guildford, which became a Suzanne Neville stand-alone store.

LILLY INGENHOVEN

When did you join the business – was it always a given you’d be there sooner or later?

It was 1995. It was never my intention to work for my mum and certainly not her intention for me to work with her.

I was a recently married graduate, unexpectedly pregnant, moving back to a home town – a backwater – biding time until I went back to a ‘proper’ job in London. The list of glittering careers that I had thought I might have included ad agency account director, design company guru, writer, fashion designer and ground-breaking marketeer, A parttime sales assistant in a wedding dress shop as cool as a knitted tea cosy was not one of them.

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LILLY INGENHOVEN

When I first went to Harrogate it was meaningful. It was where everyone was be they designer, manufacturer, buyer or press. The Brides magazine awards at Rudding Park were posh, prestigious… and exhilarating.

One year, I went to three black-tie events in a row – the RBA Ball in the Majestic, a party in a castle hosted by You and Your Wedding, and Rudding Park, which I left with Milk Thistle supplied by Chenca Westenius to repair my inner workings.

It was the place I rushed to and where I bought Phillipa Lepley in her short-lived wholesale sojourn, stalked Alan Hannah for years until he agreed to supply us, where I first found Maggie Sottero when they were just a small stand with big ideas, where I marvelled at Jenny Packham when it was brought into the Ronald Joyce family. It was at Harrogate that I was first invited to see Suzanne Neville in the White Hart.

ladette. That I could tick ‘yes’ to all of the above as hobbies or interests put me generationally at odds with the lovely ladies of old Miss Bush; it was not surprising that they drifted off.

There weren’t many wedding dress buyers at the time in their 20s – the age of the clients – and Mum let me put new labels in – including the first incarnation of Jenny Packham.

What about the biggest changes in the industry as a whole?

In some respects, nothing much has changed. In the beginning when I joined, the competition was department stores. Brides

What are the biggest mistakes made by the industry?

Saturation, over supply, slow to modernise, slow to develop digital strategies and the monopoly of one exhibition company. It is also full of liars, gaslighters and charlatans ready to separate the naïve from their cash. Sadly, in recent years, a lack of original thought and the creation of a hostile environment for new talent.

How many staff do you have?

International sold off-the-peg dresses; I have myself and Gen as directors, Pronuptia was a big franchise chain; three full-time staff, contracted and a handful of small boutiques seamstresses for peak season, a sold to a more discerning bride as digital marketing specialist who is did designer contracted solely retailers and small Brides and I have long to Miss Bush and I cottage-industry outsource HR and passed the phase when bookkeeping. wholesalers.

Supporting any old ivory dress can labels like Karen What size samples seem interesting Ashton, creator of do you buy? my first wedding I stock size 10 to 16, dress, Stephanie Allin, Caroline but would love to get my hands on Parkes, Lila Lace were in their infancy. a really super-cool, high-end curve Wealthy hobbyists joined the party label. Sadly, all designers seem to and many departed when they have written off the curve market as realised it was hard to make money. low end.

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YOLANCRIS

What you do expect from suppliers in terms of support and service?

I expect my suppliers to be brand partners. I expect them to view my rails as a valuable piece of real estate that not only generates orders, but also enhances the status of their brands. I expect them to innovate constantly, have the highest levels of customer service, and a Dropbox full to bursting with assets including campaign, look-book and video content. I expect honesty, integrity and accountability for mistakes.

And what if you don’t get it, but love the collection in question?

I have dropped more labels than I have had hot dinners. Some for simply not selling or being the right brand ‘fit’ with our clients; many because the customer service or quality of repeat was appalling; too many because of financial insecurity; more than is reasonable to expect for downright dishonestly, breaching of area exclusives, greed and incompetence.

20 years; I have Suzanne Neville – we must be at ten-plus years; Sassi Holford that we have had for three years; and we have just taken on Eliza Jane Howell after a successful popup promotion. Lilly Ingenhoven is the latest confirmed label.

What criteria do you use when taking on a new label? Are you constantly looking for new names?

I demand exclusivity, originality of What labels do you carry now and thought and design, creativity, quality how long have you had each? and provenance. I don’t mean to be I have stocked Jesús Peiró for 12 looking for new labels, but I avidly years; I still have remnants of Sottero want to find wildly beautiful new and Midgley– our relationship with The Bridal Company goes back nearly ideas. I have long passed the phase,

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target setting, tracking and analytical My Dress, are about to go in Brides skill set though. Luxe Bride are and are being called in by You & Your teaching us a love for rigour as much Wedding. as I am teaching them a love for free I have been preaching that the upper end of bridal needs to become thinking (or bloody mindedness!). more like designer gin – niche, small I demand exclusivity, Are you appointments batch, well crafted, originality of thought only, or open to desirable, using the brides? best ingredients/ and design, creativity, all Appointment only packaging, and therefore at more of a quality and provenance and fee-paying on Saturdays. connoisseur price.

Qualify, research What sort of training do you staff get? and engage your clients before they come in. I think of Miss Bush less like a Training? No official kind of training programme exists at Miss Bush. I have shop every day and more like a smart members’ club. employed specialists like Jo Ewans formally of Sassi Holford, Browns What can retailers do to up and Caroline Parkes; Leah Spicer their game?

Pownall, a digital specialist; Rosie That question is giant, but here are as have my clients, when any old ivory Roberts, a former project manager five quick thoughts that I can offer: dress can seem interesting. My phone and senior visual merchandiser from Debenhams, so the team can hit the is never out of my hand. Mobilel Become digitally competent ground running. Corinne, my stillfirst technology for marketing and l Develop a brilliant Instagram very-young boutique manager has research is an absolute must. account been with me 14 years, though she is l Don’t buy anything that looks like it not yet even 29. Corinne has grown Your latest additions – what could be bought at Wed2B up within Miss Bush and has helped attracted you to them? l Think luxury evolve our boutique philosophy.

For several years our clients have l Evolve fast or get out quickly We are enrolling to anything been rejecting all but the most subtle training related that Ellie Sanderson sparkle, but I was desperate to bring As the founder of Luxe, what can you is creating for Luxe Bride to polish our see as the biggest achievement of back a touch of opulence. I have been annoying Andrea and Gill on the the Association thus far?

EJH stand for years, and when the The biggest achievement is making opportunity came up for us to work it to year two and retaining all but one together I was delighted. member who is stepping back to have Lilly Ingenhoven was a different baby, and growing the membership. story. Lilly had no wholesale clients I would add that Leonie Lawmon for her bridal range at all, and I wrote a becoming MD after retiring from her long email introducing Miss Bush and own shop is going to be a turning our position in the UK bridal market: point. All the Directors are juggling such is the power of women reaching multiple jobs in a challenging out across social media channels. business year, so having someone in Lilly was prepared to send a few the role it of ‘professional cat herder’ samples, and we loved the dresses will be astounding. as much in real life as online. I Brands are reaching out to us wanted a laid-back brand that wasn’t and wanting to work with us without naked or boho. (In fact I want the ‘B’ the interface of traditional media word banned – it is as unhelpful as companies and our first training ‘meringue’ in reducing fashion to course was a fully-booked success. stereotypes.) Lilly’s pieces feel like Campaigning, training, supporting extensions of my own Sports Luxe and advocating for independent bridal and indie wardrobe. Pure silk and businesses is simply not being offered made in their Munich studio, they elsewhere, and our members are have already been featured on Love giving tremendous feedback.

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Introducing the Heavenly Collection

A GOOD DAY’S WORK MAKES FOR A GREAT NIGHT’S SLEEP Maria Musgrove-Wethey has the perfect pill.

A one-day business revival course that will make you feel fighting fit and ready to take on, if not the world, then certainly all the local challenges

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hat’s keeping you awake at night?

When I was working as a consultant in the corporate world, this was a key question to encourage your client to open up, to tell you what was happening in ‘their world’. If I were to ask this of a group of bridal retailers, the collective cry would be: “Competition, conversion rates, cash flow (not helped by suppliers’ constant demands to buy more), compensation claims, consumer rights (and wrongs!), cancelled weddings, and creating competitive advantage.”

And that’s just for starters.

That’s without indecisive brides, over-bearing mothers, know-it-all newly-wed bridesmaids, and the gay ‘Bestie’ who thinks he’s Randy Fenoli and won’t allow the bride to say “Yes to the dress” until he’s given his blessing!

All this, plus the VAT is due along with the quarterly rent; London Bridal Week’s orders have landed and we’re wondering how we’re going to pay for them and hey ho, whatddya know, it’s Harrogate again!

Add to this late deliveries, quality control issues, a groaning alterations rail and the constant communication from brides 24/7 whether it be via phone, email, text, Facebook Messenger or all other channels in our constantly ‘on’ digital world. Oh, and let’s not forget that unjustified one-star review – all because you advised against taking photos and wouldn’t allow her bridal tribe of ten (plus all of their sniffing and coughing infants in push chairs) in on your busiest Saturday of the year!

It’s a wonder that we ever get to sleep. There is a plethora of problems to keep us awake at night. It’s not surprising that we have all grabbed for the wine bottle, phoned a friend or ranted on our closed Facebook groups to other bridal retailers way into the night! We know that a problem shared is a problem halved, but is this always the

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best solution available to you?

It’s right to be aware of these threats in bridal.

However, we may have been dealing with them with the wrong approach. Let’s look at two of the main fears keeping us awake at night – competition and conversion rates when we do get those brides through the door – and get to the bottom of both of them…

Competition Thirty-six stores and at least one more opening soon – possibly near you. Cough-cough. We all know who I’m talking about, don’t we? With their irresistible offer of budget-priced gowns to buy off the peg and their fulltime Social Media Director and their short supply chain with massive margins, yes – we should be worried.

Equally as worrying is the millennial opening up an independent bridal shop – possibly also near you. Over the past four years I’ve helped several, and they’re not deluded ex-brides whose parent has just got their redundancy pay and thought they could “do it so much better than where I bought my dress” and say “I’ve always dreamed of being in bridal”.

This new breed of bridal shop owner is the same age as her target bride. They will usually be from a retail background at a senior level, and they could give that Social Media Director a run for his (or her) money as they promote their business on every social media platform known to womankind, months before she opens.

Oh, and did I mention how conversant she is with ROIs, ATVs, return per square foot? Feeling inadequate? Imagine how I feel when I’m coaching them… I learn as much from them as they do from me!

Of equal concern could be your local competition closing down. Before you wave your victory flag to their surrender flag, you might need to think again. If you’re in a bit of an out-of-town location, you might find that having two or three shops is attracting more brides to your area, and if one closes, it may make you less of an attractive destination and this might seriously affect footfall.

A retailer’s recent post on Facebook reported that a group of triplets were on their way to the highlymarketed Dread2B and passed her independent bridal

SLEEP EASY Don’t take your problems to bed with you… consider Maria and Christine’s Sales and Social Media Marketing course!

boutique. She copped for not just one, but all three brides, without them even setting foot in said competition. And the triplets are having a joint wedding, so the social media content potential is endless. That Wed2B opening on your doorstep might not be such a threat after all.

Conversion rates Cashflow, costs and conversion rates are an eternal triangle.

If we are ill-prepared when we go buying and get carried away (I’ve been there, got the t-shirt, the overdraft and the sleepless nights), then our costs of sales escalates, cash flow is catastrophic and we rely on great sales and conversion rates to carry us through – until the next crazy circus cycle of buying starts all over again.

No wonder we want to scream if another of our sales consultants says, “She’ll be back” in reply to: “Why didn’t she buy, because she loved the dress, had a short lead time, her mother cried and the bridal tribe drank us dry of Prosecco?”

Consider this as the solution Maybe we need to take some time out to work ‘on the business’ rather than ‘in the business’. Maybe we need to invest in either one-to-one consultancy to work on what’s keeping us awake at night, or we should attend a training course where we can meet with like-minded bridal shop owners with shared issues.

But where to find the right consultant or course? Even after GDPR, I still receive emails promising the earth on everything from SEO to sexual satisfaction! But the senders don’t understand the first thing about the beautiful game of bridal.

However, Christine Skilton-Sinclair and I know masses about bridal, and we’ve joined forces to run a Bridal Sales

and Social Media Marketing course, guaranteed to help you address what’s keeping you awake at night. And, even if you don’t sleep like a baby, you’ll come away with strategies to help you address those bridal nightmares.

When? 12 November 2018 Where? Woodside Conference Centre, Kenilworth, Warwickshire What? One-day training on Social Media Marketing and Sales Skills How much? £150 Want to Book? Visit christineaurea.com/ bridalboutiquetraining to find out more.

Meet the trainers Maria Musgrove-Wethey, boutique owner, trainer, coach and mentor, has over 20 years of bridal experience and is an industry expert. BB (Before Bridal), she spent 20 years working for an international training company and now shares her vast knowledge by offering sales training and consultancy to bridal shop owners whether starting up, selling up or somewhere in between!

Christine Skilton-Sinclair has studied Social Media Marketing for the past five years and run her bridal boutique for 14 years. She is now launching her training programme to the bridal industry to help deliver increased footfall back to independent bricks-and-mortar boutiques – just like yours.

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Prom

BY ROMANTICA

We will be showcasing our glamorous new 2019 collection at The Harrogate Bridal Show: 9th - 11th of September at The St George Hotel, opposite the main halls. www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

BES POKE MY BOUTI QUE Let’s give this place a re-fab! part 2 We ask interior designer and industry expert, Terry Moore, for his follow-up thoughts on that tantalisingly elusive of questions: How do you create a stand-out bridal boutique?

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ast month we had a blast ‘bespoking your boutique’ and we’re delighted to have set the creative juices a-flowing. We’ve loved hearing your top tips for breathing new life into your bridal boutique (keep them coming: how creative are you lot?!), and, as always, inspiration breeds inspiration and we’re hungry for more!

For a huge injection of industry know-how, and straight from the horse’s mouth (because we’ve got the bit between our teeth now), we’ve teamed up with award-winning interior designer, Terry Moore, with one burning question in mind: how do you create a sensational, stand-out bridal boutique, Terry?

1

“ Follow your guests’ journey…”

“Start at the very beginning and put yourself in every bride’s shoes. Revisit your storefront with fresh eyes. Look at your boutique and ask yourself: can I read the sign? Does the frontage reflect the right taste level that I am aiming for, here?

Your store window should connect instantly with your target audience so choose simple display statements to convey the product and price ranges.

Keep mannequins very neutral or abstract, or even consider none at all.

UNIQUE DRESSING ROOM A tented fitting room, with eyecatching, floating shelf squares against a black back-drop

One thing that’s essential is to keep the store layout as open and simple as possible. I can’t stress how important this is – don’t go overboard!”

SEE ANYTHING YOU LIKE? Take inspiration from nonbridal boutiques for how to create a physical presence

Why we love this idea Call in the females! We love this clarion call anyway, but as far as honest feedback goes, your female friends and family in particular can always be relied upon to give it to you straight (Great Aunt Agnes, anyone?

There’s one in every family…).

The point here is that you want to be open to suggestions and would welcome constructive feedback. This boutique is your baby, but you want it to be at its best, and asking this group of women to walk around your shop giving you pointers is an easy way to collaborate with some of the great creative minds on the planet… and best

of all, it’s genuine feedback that you are getting for free!

2

“We’re visual creatures by nature…”

“Remember, the internet has no physical presence and the highstreet retailer will be slow to react to changes in trends and will lack creativity. So this is where your real opportunity lies, and it comes

through packing a visual punch and staying ahead of trends as well as mirroring them.

Think about how you display items.

In particular, look at a vintage glass showcase or an armoire as a focal point for a theme. This could include hand-picked gowns that face forward instead of sideways on; this introduces a visual ‘breathing space’ by breaking up the dresses as well as giving a

The high street is slow to react to changes in trends, so this is your opportunity: stay ahead and pack a visual punch!

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MIX ’N’ MATCH Putting complementary items next to each other can make it easier to gain ‘add-on’ sales CROSSHEAD Everything in this Wix template is boutique boutique boutique boutique boutique boutique

feature ‘hotspot’ for a special line of dresses you’re looking to promote or a new-in and ‘latest-look’ garment.”

Why we love this idea The wedding industry and designers themselves are informed by myriad sources of inspiration, from high fashion and what’s hot on the cat walk, to the changing of the seasons.

Keep reviewing your boutique’s ‘ look’ and don’t allow yourself to rest on your laurels.

Your shop, too, should be in a constant state of flux and never static.

This is not a chore but a continual

source of delight for those with a creative flair.

You should not think of ‘bespoking your boutique’ as a one-off venture but rather as a continuing process, and this best capitalises on the advantage you have over the internet. So stay current.

Invest in monthly

LET THERE BE LIGHT This modern chandelier is not only dazzling, it also provides that all-important light

HATS OFF TO THAT Notice how these wall hooks have turned an otherwise plain wall into something arresting?

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Terry’s top tips

mother-of-the-bride outfits to match the theme.”

l Doorway delight

Why we love this idea Metallic shades with a hit of shimmer on a featured piece of furniture may not seem the obvious choice for a bridal boutique, but daring to be different (and steering away from pastel) gives you that certain je ne sais quoi, as the French so wonderfully say.

Oh, and also, when adding subtle touches here and there, don’t be afraid of the dark side. After all, it is the perfect complement to brilliant bridal white…

memberships of a range of magazines and keep making those mood boards…

3

“This is the age of the independent. This is the age of creativity…”

“Think outside of the… wardrobe.

Invest in old wardrobes and paint them in beautiful colours and you’d be surprised of the visual impact you can create. Use the back of doors and drawers to accessorise the featured garment and drape accompanying jewellery over the dresses.

Reclaimed vintage furniture is perfect for displaying accessories, and half-pulled out drawers make a great tiered shoe display. To show your breadth of range, display complete ‘stories’ of a wedding that capture the day in an ‘as seen together’ visual spectacular that includes bridesmaids’ dresses and THE LITTLE THINGS Sometimes a little says a lot, like this petite display contrasted against that large graphical image

In summary…

Ultimately, second-guessing what your bridal boutique ‘should’ look like is likely to limit your scope of creativity rather than enhance it.

Despite everything we’ve suggested, there are in fact no rules here, and therein lies the dazzling beauty. This should be a whole lot of fun – for you as well as for every bride who walks through your door!

And if you’re having fun and giving full voice to all of that magical creative impulse – with confidence and panache and a clear concept of who you are – then that will be impossible to hide in your boutique.

Our thanks to Terry for these excellent insights! Specialising in creating contemporary, crafted environments for retail and exhibition, see more from Terry at terrymooredesign.co.uk. terry@terrymooredesign.co.uk +44 (0)20 8224 1809

If you keep your doors closed during trading hours, have a nice traditional bell. Try planters either side of the door for a touch of luxe.

l Classy colour schemes Use the Farrow and Ball range of colours for the store front. They are smart and sophisticated! l Stand out after dark If possible, ensure your sign is lit at night for ‘stand-out appeal’ to passing customers. The same with the window lighting: put lights on a time clock until around midnight.

l Clever categorising Present by range or style rather than price as you can up-sell that way. l The right props Giving the impression of bespoke is excellent and a nod to this would be having things like pin cushions and tape measures around. If space permits for a tailor’s bench and cutting patterns and so on, then go for it! l No lighty, no likey When asked what is the singular most important element to any store design my answer is invariably “the lighting’”.

Lighting creates the mood, sets the style, infers the market position, enhances the product, and makes the customer look great. Get it wrong and disaster looms!

Your boutique will need a combination of ambient lighting (background, to set a warm and relaxed mood) and feature lighting to pick out specific displays. To get the look right, you’ll need to have the minimum of spot lights.

NO FLOORS FOR CONCERN Reclaimed flooring (and furniture) can heighten the character and charm of an independent retailer

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ADELAIDE BRIDAL EMPORIUM

DI F F E R ENCES DOW N U NDER We reckon Q&As are a great way to get information over fast.

No messing with pretty words. No fluff. Just hard-hitting facts telling it like it is. We got to know more about business in Australia by firing those Qs at Michelle Parascos of Ferrari East

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Label line up?

Ferrari East is the distributor in Australia and New Zealand for Allure Bridals. There are big brands here, including Madison James and Wilderly Bride. Huge territory. And then there’s Eddy K, Casablanca, Morilee, selected Mon Cheri brands, Bridal Chic, Tania Olsen, Les Demoiselles, Wendy Ann, and Mancini Bridal, too. Ferrari has been in the bridal and formalwear industry for over 40 years. Experience counts!

Samples or stock? (There’s a lesson to be learned here!)

Both! As well as orders taken for made-to-measure gowns from the samples in store, there is a rail of ready-to-go gowns for those brides who cannot wait! These are not unsold samples, but instead gowns that are bought in as stock. We think this is a great message to give out.

Number of marriages a year in Oz? Around 116,000.

ADELAIDE BRIDAL EMPORIUM

What, and where?

There are five stores in the Ferrari East portfolio – Brides of Sydney, Brides of Melbourne, Brides of Toowoomba, Adelaide Bridal Emporium and Ferrari Bridal & Formalwear.

Age of the first-time bride?

30.

Length of first appointment?

One to one-and-a-half hours.

Most popular size?

US 10.

Number of visits before a bride says “Yes to the Dress”? (The Australian version of the TV show was filmed at Brides of Sydney) On average, two.

Opening hours (Lesson 2…)?

Seven days a week. Appointments preferred, but walk-ins are made to feel very welcome.

If a bride needs a gown, will she be willing to travel for it?

Yes, brides are ready to journey around to find ‘the one’.

Appointment charge (and now the roles are reversed, they’re learning from us)?

Average spend on a wedding gown?

Currently not, but this is deemed to be something that the industry needs. $2,200 AUD. (That’s £1,262.28 to us Brits and our sterling!)

As well as orders taken for made-to-measure gowns from samples in store, there’s a rail of ready-to-go wedding gowns, too

Catering to mums, grooms, guests?

Yes, yes, and yes. However, some of our stores focus purely on catering for the brides.

Offering accessories?

Another big yes.

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What’s the buying agenda like?

It’s a year-round affair. It’s a case of continually researching for new lines and exciting products. US shows in Chicago and New York are a mustvisit. Plus, of course, time is spent

The US shows in Chicago and New York are a must-visit, as is time with influential, innovative Australian designers

with Australian designers who are influencing the global market with their blend of innovation and commercialism.

many brides are loving the bohemian influence and casualisation that these styles offer. Meanwhile, popular colours for bridesmaids are navy, merlot and soft blush tones. The current must-have bridal colours are Champagne, ivory and French beige.

Do brides try bargaining?

Oh yes. Some things are the same everywhere you go!

Biggest challenges today?

Creating in-store experiences and finding a point of difference for your store. Also, how to personalise the experience. Finally, finding the balance with stock management to service the increasing demand for off-the-floor sales while still offering special orders.

Are there trunk shows and designer days on offer?

Advice to share with others Both. Events are a speciality and word We celebrate with our brides! It is such a wonderful and exciting time spreads fast. in their lives and we do everything possible to share their excitement. I What about think as retailers we often under-value consumer the importance of the relationship bridal fairs? between the stylist and bride.

We find that these If you don’t keep evolving, you will are becoming less not be relevant in today’s market. Also, relevant in today’s market. don’t be concerned with what’s going on online and competitors. This can Communications?

Yes. Social media is key… and it’s really be a very emotional time for a bride, and as retailers we have the distinct delivering results. advantage of being able to offer a personal experience for our brides.

Retailers supporting retailers?

I understand brides are wanting Sadly, most work independently. (And to find their dream gown, but they that’s a real shame.) are also looking for reassurance What’s sort of things are you seeing and support. A professional stylist who genuinely understands a trending right now?

There’s a move towards classic clean bride’s needs and concerns is a very powerful tool. If you can find a way lines and simple styling. Mikado, soft to connect with your bride, she will crepes and satins are definitely up never want to leave your store! there. Lace is still very popular and

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Fairy tale comes to life in the 2018 ‘Love story’ collection. Bringing you exclusive designs incorporated by Diana Elizabeth dresses. Fine delicate embroidery and appliqué detailing the perfection of design and implementation. Diana Elizabeth dresses will make your wedding day a true ‘Love story’.

Diana Elizabeth’s signature style is wedding dresses with and amazing silhouette and fit.

www.dianaelizabeth.co.uk Telephone +44 (0) 7850 855673

SECOND OPINION The same-sex marriage market is fast growing, with the number of couples tying the knot in the past few years more than doubling. But some retailers are woefully behind the times and missing out on new business opportunities. We asked Helena Cotter to investigate

W

hen I was invited to write an article based on the wedding fashion wants of same-sex couples, I thought it would be an interesting exercise as, perhaps like many of us, my experience in this emerging market is limited. It has been a great learning curve for me, starting with the background and the statistics that should get every wedding supplier out there celebrating.

A bit of background At their yearly meeting in 2009, the Quakers were the first British religious body in Britain to recognise opposite and same sex marriages equally. I had no idea. The law at that time said that registrars weren’t allowed to legally officiate at a marriage between partners of the same sex, but Quakers suggested the law did not preclude them from “Playing a central role in the celebration and recording of same sex marriages”.

Quakers subsequently asked the Government to change the law to allow these marriages to be recognised and, in a joint press release in 2013, Quakers, Liberal Judaism, Unitarians and Free Christians endorsed a same sex marriage consultation.

In the four years since laws changed here in the UK, the sector has grown dramatically and the increasing numbers of couples who have finally been able to embrace the opportunity to say “I do” are turning the tables on the marriage figures which were showing a steady decline up until the new laws came into effect.

The stats At the time of writing, figures from the Office for National

Statistics (UK) show that same sex marriages in England and Wales grew from 26,087 in 2015 to 60,081 in 2017.

In 2017, men accounted for 57.7 per cent (34,647) of marriages between same sex couples and women the remaining 42.3 per cent (25,434). Think about the couples themselves, their wedding attendants, their family and friends – they represent opportunities that simply did not exist five years ago.

When and where: Same-sex marriages 2013: New Zealand 2000: The Netherlands 2013: England, Wales 2003: Belgium 2013: France 2005: Canada 2014: Luxembourg 2005: Spain 2014: Scotland 2006: South Africa 2015: United States 2008: Norway 2015: Ireland 2009: Sweden 2015: Finland 2010: Argentina 2015: Greenland 2010: Portugal 2016: Colombia 2010: Iceland 2017: Malta 2012: Denmark 2017: Australia 2013: Uruguay 2017: Germany 2013: Brazil It is expected that same-sex marriage will be legal shortly in Austria, Costa Rica and Taiwan, while Armenia, Estonia and Israel recognise the marriages of same-sex couples validly entered into in other countries.

Without question, we now have a new and bigger audience whom we can impress with our skills, our understanding, and our passion. So why are some of us not?

Customer experience… and disappointment I was made aware very recently – actually while conducting research for this article – of a newly-engaged female couple who made an appointment at a local bridal shop – one that carried a good choice of quality labels and boasted an exciting website and blog. The girls were looking for chic boho-style wedding dresses O C T O B E R 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 93

and accessories; it was their dream to marry in identical gowns. They had the budget – one is in market research, the other in banking – and they had done their research into different labels. But when they talked through their wish list with the sales consultant, they were told, politely, go elsewhere. (“Hmm, sorry, we can’t meet your time frames.”)

Stories like this reverberate throughout the bridal business and do not leave a good impression. Or a fair one, as most of us would not dream of differentiating between this couple and that couple.

It’s also a huge faux pas in terms of business success.

Bad customer experiences spread through communities like wildfire, by word of mouth and of course on social media. I doubt other same sex couples will darken that shop’s door, which means a loss of potential business income and, more unfortunately, that shop’s reputation.

Two sales per customer It seems that some shop owners feel uncomfortable with certain sections of our community. Why? Give a soon-tobe-wed, regardless of who she/he loves and is marrying, a bad experience and you are damaging your business and its name. When you have bona fide customers who wish to spend their hard-earned cash (often two sales per couple, I am reliably informed), they deserve your time, your attention and the benefit of your knowledge.

Wedding planning brings its own tensions – sometimes huge ones – and you do not need to add to the stress that a couple may be going through.

I hear similar stories from brides with real curves, who leave shops sadden by the lack of help they have been given – a sales assistant has looked them up and down and told them there’s nothing in the shop to fit them, reducing what should have been great and joyful experience to a heartbreaking one.

In our industry, where most business owners and staff are committed to providing the gold standard of service and care in order to maximise the customer experience, it is a pity that some let themselves down so badly.

LGBT Capitol in its latest reports, estimates the value of the ‘pink pound’ as it is known, in the UK, to be £106 billion. Any way you slice it, that is a simply staggering figure. Access to this burgeoning market is in your capable hands.

My question is this: same sex couples are buying their wedding outfits from somewhere, so why not from your shop? Are others offering something that you have missed out on?

Ninety-nine percent of independent bridal retailers already have a fantastic track record of demonstrating: l l l l

Compassion Empathy Tact Kindness

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Selflessness Going above and beyond for their customers

You are experts at helping customers who may feel nervous, body conscious, awkward, overwhelmed, budget concerned. What other businesses in the world of retail have as much experience and success as you when it comes to building meaningful relationships? None that I can think of!

My advice is this: try a tweak in your advertising to help your business become more inclusive. Diversify promotions to add this blossoming market sector to your traditional client base.

How about becoming one of the many ‘LGBT allies’ that can be found in corporate businesses – companies who honestly and genuinely recognise the importance of being all inclusive?

How you portray your business on the bridal world stage to show that you are there to make everybody’s wedding dream will enlighten potential customers. It will draw them to you.

Reaching the audience There is one fabulous, dedicated website that I discovered during my market research. At thegayweddingguide.co.uk/gay-and-real-lesbianweddings/lesbian-weddings you will find a mountain of advice and information for couples – advice and information that will help you to understand a little more about the LGBT community.

Surprisingly, on this site – and others with the same focus – there is little or no mention at all of specialised independent bridalwear retailers or groomswear shops. So a golden opportunity to promote your business to their target audience exists. Grab it! And post on social media to send out a clear message that you want to help everyone who is getting married find their dream outfit.

Training Is training needed to help ensure your same sex customers enjoy the best possible experience? There are definitely some areas we can look to improve in order to encompass the needs and tastes of everyone who comes to your shop. In the meantime, do what I did, and research and find out as much as you can about the market. The exercise is worthwhile and the results may give you a whole new perspective.

I am currently upgrading my existing Sales Opening Programme to help you work with this exciting new customer base. As soon as it’s finished, you will be the first to know. +44 (0) 1582 451238 info@helenacotter.co.uk helenacotter.co.uk

www.propress.co.uk

Bridal

Styled by Steam

Q&A DOSH GOING LEGAL

Welcome on board to Michael Cahill of accountancy practice Albert Goodman, who’ll be casting an expert eye over your financial questions, and delivering answers that could make a difference to you and your business I am just about to open my first shop. What is the most sensible way to buy and run a car on the business? My staff will be using it occasionally to deliver special orders, but I will be in the driving seat most of the time. Do you have any recommendations on things like insurance and so on? Also, with regards to running costs, do I just keep all the petrol and parking bills?

This is a common question and the answer partly depends on the trading structure of your business – so things can differ depending on whether you are trading as a sole trader/partnership or through a limited company. Let’s take a look at them as a comparison: Sole trader/partnership If trading as a sole trader or in a partnership, you may claim motor expenses using the ‘mileage method’ or ‘full cost method’.

Under the first you can claim the appropriate HMRC-approved mileage allowance payment rate for each business mile travelled (45p per mile for the first 10,000 miles and 25p per mile thereafter in each tax year). You should keep a mileage log to support your claim. You can’t claim any other costs for running the car.

Under the full cost method you would keep a record of all motor expenses including fuel, insurance, repairs and servicing, MOT and so on. If the vehicle is used for private mileage as well as 96 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ O C T O B E R 2 0 1 8

business trips, you should keep a log of the mileage (date, miles travelled, whether it was business or private, and if business the purpose of the trip) so that you can then apportion the total costs incurred between business and private trips. Only the business element can be deducted from your profit for tax purposes.

The business will also be able to claim capital allowances on the cost of the car as a deduction against its profits. The amount you can claim will depend on the CO2 emissions of the vehicle if it is a car and the proportion of business mileage travelled.

Limited company If you are trading through a limited company, the position is more complicated, and in many cases it is more tax-effective for an individual to own their vehicle privately and charge the company the HMRCapproved mileage allowance payment rate for each business mile travelled.

If the vehicle is owned by the company, you can claim 100% of the running costs (excluding fuel) as a deduction against your business profits. However, if the car is made available to an individual for private use, a benefit in kind (BIK) will arise. The BIK for a full year is calculated by multiplying the list price of the vehicle when new by a percentage which is dependent on the CO2 emissions and fuel type of the car. The company is liable for class 1A national insurance on the value of the BIK, and the employee will be required to pay income tax on the value of the BIK. With regards to the fuel costs, an employee could pay for all fuel costs personally and then claim from the company for each business mile travelled using the appropriate HMRC Advisory fuel rate.

Alternatively, the company could pay all fuel costs; however, if this includes the fuel for private mileage, a fuel BIK will arise (see implications above). In order to avoid the fuel BIK, the employee can reimburse the company for any fuel consumed on private mileage by using the Advisory Fuel Rates.

Owning a car outright is of course only one of the options. You may decide to acquire a vehicle via a hire purchase agreement, finance lease or Personal Contract Purchase (PCP), or you may enter into an operating lease. These all have different implications and therefore it is important to take

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professional advice if you are considering one of these options.

The tax treatment is also different for cars and vans so you should watch out for this. I would recommend that you seek advice to ensure that any vehicles are dealt with in the most taxefficient manner.

Can you explain what I need to do and pay staff regarding pensions and holiday pay, please?

There is just me, one full-timer, and a regular Saturday salesperson. I want to be fair, but am not sure what the legal requirements are.

Trader Trader Trader WEDDING

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE SEVEN • AUGUST ’18

Ian Stuart

ON CHANNEL 4’S MOST-WATCHED LIST

Most workers who work a five-day week are legally entitled to 5.6 weeks’ (28 days) paid holiday per year. An employer doesn’t have to include bank or public holidays as paid leave, but they can choose to include them as part of a worker’s statutory annual leave. Part-time workers are effectively entitled to the same holiday on a pro-rata basis based on the hours they work.

The gov.co.uk website has a useful holiday entitlement calculator to work out a part-time worker’s leave. This can also be used for people working irregular hours.

Statutory paid holiday entitlement is limited to 28 days, so staff working six days a week are still only entitled to 28 days’ paid holiday.

With regard to pensions, if you employ an individual who is between 22 years old and the State Pension age, and their earnings are more than £10,000 per annum, you must set up an auto enrolment compliant pension scheme and enrol your employee(s) into that scheme.

Your employee can decide to opt out of the scheme, but they must be enrolled first and then opt out. Where employees remain within the scheme, both the employee and employer will be required to make contributions to the scheme.

The minimum contribution required from employers is two percent of an employee’s qualifying earnings until 6 April 2019, and three percent beyond that. The employee is required to contribute a total of three percent to 6 April 2019, and five percent beyond that date. The Government has provided a new scheme called NEST (the National Employment Savings Trust) which employers can use to assist with meeting their obligations.

For useful information visit thepensionregulator. gov.uk and thepensionadvisoryservice.org.uk Email business finance questions to susi@ meanttobemedia.com. To consult with Michael Cahill, michael.cahill@albertgoodman.co.uk

EMERGING TALENTS NAMES TO KNOW FROM ACROSS THE POND

GO AWAY...

HEAD FOR THE BEACH

The Awards

DESTINATION DRESSING – OUR GUIDE TO THE VERY BEST

WHO IS IN THE RUNNING FOR A COVETED TROPHY?

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A NEW WAY OF WORKING

Time with Pronovias

HEAD DESIGNER HERVÉ MOREAU IS IN LOVE WITH LACE

EXCLUSIVE! HOW ENZOANI GIVES RETAILERS TOOLS FOR CHANGE

A MATTER OF OF MINIMUMS A THORNY SUBJECT, BUT ONE THAT SUPPLIERS LOOK TO ADDRESS

Going global

BARCELONA, ESSEN, CHICAGO, NEW YORK, DÜSSELDORF, MILAN: WHAT TO SEE WHERE

Mums’ stuff

IN ATTENDANCE PRETTY MAIDS ALL IN A ROW – THE BRIGHT NEW CROP OF BRIDESMAIDS DRESSES

WHAT THE BEST-DRESSED MOTHERS WILL DEFINITELY WANT

OUTSPOKEN OPINIONS BIG NAMES – POWERFUL VIEWS

WEDDING

ISSUE THREE • APRIL ‘18

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ISSUE FOUR • MAY ‘18

My website journey

ONE RETAILER ON THE ROUTE SHE TOOK TO TO PERFECT HER ONLINE PRESENCE

SHOW NUMBERS SPECIAL FINDS AND NEW DISCOVERIES AT LONDON BRIDAL WEEK

GETTING IT RIGHT EVERY TIME THE NAMES AND THE LABELS YOU NEED TO KNOW MORE ABOUT

GROOMS WITH A VIEW WOW FACTOR DRESSING IS NOT JUST FOR FEMALES

If I was a retailer

VATANA WATTERS GETS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE COUNTER

Two to one

Designer-owned bridal stores

WHEN DOWNSIZING IS THE VERY BEST BET

HOW THE BIG NAMES HELP THEIR STOCKISTS

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Trying for a trophy?

WHICH AWARDS PROGRAMMES ARE THE WINNERS

BUYERS, BLOGGERS, MARKETEERS DELIVERING NEWS, VIEWS AND HONEST OPINION

ISSUE TWO • MARCH ‘18

Your buying season starts here WHO IS SHOWING WHAT... AND WHERE

BRIDES ON BOUTIQUES WHAT YOUR CUSTOMERS THINK ABOUT THEIR SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

YPOS

SERVICE LIFTS WHAT TOP SUPPLIERS ARE PROMISING THEIR CUSTOMERS

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NOT ANOTHER ONLINE OP! IT’S YOUR PROBLEMS, OUR SOLUTIONS. HELP AT HAND WHEN NEEDED

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UK Bridal Week A NEW SHOW SCHEDULED FOR 2019 PROMISES TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE

LY PROUDTING SUPPOR BRITISH AR WE BRIDAL ERS RETAIL

SUSTAINABILITY IS THE BUZZWORD OF THE MOMENT – GET IT?

ISSUE EIGHT • SEPTEMBER ’18

HIGH STREET DEBATE WORKING TOGETHER TO WIN BATTLES

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The High Street debate continues WE CANVAS OPINION ON THE FUTURE OF INDEPENDENT RETAILING

LONGEVITY HOW TO BE

DOING WHAT YOU’RE DOING MANY YEARS FROM NOW

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THE NEXT BIG THING

WELL WHAT’S IT TO BE?

SAY HOLA TO THE BRANDS THAT MEAN BIG BUSINESS

SAME SEX WEDDINGS SOMETHING TO SERIOUSLY CELEBRATE

SOLE MATES

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ISSUE NINE • OCTOBER ’18

VIVA ESPANA

LY PROUDTING SUPPOR BRITISH AR WE BRIDAL ERS RETAIL

STEPPING OUT IN STYLE WITH THE LOVELY RACHEL SIMPSON

WE PICK THE BEST OF THE GOWNS

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SLEEVES

GOING TO NEW LENGTHS, AND ANYTHING BUT PLAIN

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TO WORK W I TH US , CONTACT: Advertising Sales Consultant Nardene Smith nardene@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07957 372276

Sales Executive Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07877 449122

Editor Susi Rogol susi@meanttobemedia.com

Finally, it feels that the gap has been bridged and suppliers and retailers are all on the same page, working and talking together. Susi and the fabulous team have recognised this in abundance and created a monthly handbag explosion of fascinating insight, construction opinions, hints, tips and captivating reads. Truly inspirational!

Jeanette Stevens, Managing Director, Enzoani Europe

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F IND YOUR

DREAM DRESS

MOST VIEWED… BRIDAL DRESS EVELYN BY CASABLANCA BRIDAL Brides are loving this eye-catching, fabulous, deep-v neckline featuring bestselling scalloped lace, all layered over a satin lining.

Digital snapshot

F I ND Y

DRE DRE

WHAT YOUR BRI DES A R E SHOPPING FOR O N LI N E We look at what trends brides are searching for this month on findyourdreamdress.co.uk MOST READ… BLOG FEATURE THEME INSPIRATION: RUSTIC METALLICS As Jade Pepperell, Love Our Wedding editor, pointed out on p68, metallics are quite the bridal trend at the moment and this blog post only goes to strengthen the case.

MOST SEARCHEDFOR… DRESS SHAPE BODY SKIMMING Ignore what brides are searching for at your peril. What gowns do you have on your window mannequins right now?

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WHAT IS FIND YOUR DREAM DRESS? Brides-to-be can use this super-helpful website which allows them to filter various categories in order to find their dream dress in among FYDD’s database. Then, the site tells the brides where the nearest boutique is to them that stocks their dress of choice. If you’re a designer and you’d like to see your collection of gowns featured here, or if you’re a boutique owner that would love to have your business included in the search results, then visit findyourdreamdress.co.uk to find out more. Alternatively, drop Nardene an email at nardene@meanttobemedia.com.

MOST SEARCHEDFOR… DESIGNER CASABLANCA BRIDAL Wow, two out of two for Casablanca this month – most viewed dress and most searched for designer! These are seriously sought-after dresses right now.

MOST VIEWED… MOTHER OF THE BRIDES DRESS STYLE 991154 BY RONALD JOYCE Sleek in a classy shade of taupe, this dress is anything but simple – especially that stunning waist.

MOST VIEWED… PLUS-SIZE DRESS STYLE SON91607

BY SONSIE We love the beaded and embroidered tulle top on this gown, and maybe brides feel the same way – after all, it has received a lot of attention this past month.

MOST VIEWED… BRIDESMAID DRESS D17226 BY SPECIAL DAY DIAMOND COLLECTION Brides aren’t afraid to opt for bridesmaid dresses that are light in colour. This lace and chiffon column dress comes in powder blue and light champagne.

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Ursula

www.catherineparrybridal.com Visit the website to view the full collection and to find your nearest stockist.

Follow us on facebook at facebook.com/catherineparrybridal or twitter @CParryBridal

ALLURE BRIDALS

B U YI N G AGE N DA Source the big names and the bright newcomers at the forthcoming events

15th September

7th-9th October

10th-11th March 2019

NATIONAL BRIDAL MARKET, CHICAGO

THE KNOT COUTURE SHOW, NEW YORK

nationalbridalmarket.com

coutureshow.com

THE BRIDAL ROADSHOW, BRISTOL thebridalroadshow.co.uk

21st September

3rd-4th March 2019

24th-26th March 2019

WEDDING FASHION PRAGUE

THE BRIDAL ROADSHOW, HARROGATE thebridalroadshow.co.uk

LONDON BRIDAL WEEK, EXCEL LONDON londonbridalweek.com

wf-prague.com

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For an appointment call 0207 680 9716 Shop Online at catherinedeane.co.uk

COMING NEXT MONTH IN THE

November issue • Harrogate – the winning numbers from the top names • Meet the retailer who turned agent, and the supplier who set up shop • Wedding planners – are they worth working with?

• Fishtails – diving in the fashion deep end

GEMY MAALOUF

• Boy talk – we didn’t have room for it this time round!

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Come And See Us At

K S 1 4 M A I N S TA N D F O R B B S A CHAT TO A COMMITTEE MEMBERS ON STANDS B21, C16, C25 C28, M10, M22/23, Q47 GEORGE HOTEL

I NDUSTRY

Classified From job vacancies to new closures or relocations, you’ll get the lowdown on opportunities and announcements here N E WSFLASH AWA R D S E A S O N There are awards being eagerly eyed up on the ever-approaching horizon leading up to Harrogate, but we were delighted to hear that Willow Bridal Boutique in Cheshire has scooped up an award already – at the 2018 LUX Life magazine Global Wedding Awards. And the best bit? They were nominated by a delighted (albeit anonymous) customer.

Owner Helen Williams, 33, has worked in the industry for eight years and she picked up the gong for Best Luxury Bridal Boutique in a nationwide competition. Considering that this award’s criteria was judged on the quality of the boutique’s facilities and an excellent standard of service, Helen will no doubt be very proud.

Get the polish out; put that trophy in a well-lit spot! Congratulations, Helen, from all of us here at Wedding Trader.

VACANC I ES CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO: K N I G H T S B R I D G E F L AG S H I P S TO R E D I R E C TO R The country’s leading luxury bridal and eveningwear brand, established for 27 years, are currently recruiting for a female* Store Director for their flagship store based in Knightsbridge.

The Caroline Castigliano brand is an infusion of luxury classic yet

contemporary gowns, all handcrafted in the United Kingdom. The brand is renowned for its incredible service.

They are looking for a creative entrepreneurial Store Director who has a great understanding of customer experience and VIP clients, with press and bloggers associated with the boutique, the brand itself attracts a client base of celebrities and VIP’s from around the world.

You must have exposure influencing key relationships and cultivating strong client relationships long-term. For more details, please visit carolinecastigliano.com/careers CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO: H E A D O F B R I DA L C O U T U R E & EVENING WEAR FITTINGS A wonderful opportunity has a risen for a talented female* couture fitter with a passion for luxury bridal and evening wear. The role involves running the busy fitting department in Caroline Castigliano’s Flagship Knightsbridge store, overseeing all fittings and organising the alterations while offering clients the highest level of customer service.

The candidate will be required to ensure that the highest level of technical fitting excellence in all designs is produced by the company for the Flagship store, as well as providing and fulfilling an unparalleled fitting service within said Flagship

Store. For more details, please visit carolinecastigliano.com/careers *Due to the nature of these roles, applications are only open to female candidates. (Exempt under the Equality Act 2010, Part 1, Schedule 9).

STOC K IST S E A R C H LOVE OUR WEDDING The UK’s favourite free monthly consumer magazine, Love Our Wedding, is looking for more boutiques across the UK to stock their magazines free of charge. These handbag-sized magazines are perfect for you to gift to brides that come in store or for goody bags at special events. To become a stockist now, email andy@meanttobemedia.com.

We’ll send it in the same delivery as your copy of Wedding Trader!

WH AT A B OU T M E ?

Do you have news of your own that you want to share with the rest of the bridal world? Just celebrated an anniversary of your store opening? Have you closed a store, or perhaps moved to a bigger, shiny new premises? Maybe you’ve won a snazzy award? This is the place to be heard! Send us your news by emailing tom@meanttobemedia.com.

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“Harrogate is approaching, and thanks to Wedding Trader’s ‘Your Problems, Our Solutions’, I feel much more prepared than previous years. I need to learn to think with my head, not my heart, and Helen Lord, Nicola Garton and many others’ advice with regards to longevity in business really sent the message home. I have an action plan this time, and I’m determined to stick to it!”

“Myself and my staff enjoy reading Wedding Trader for its opinions within our bridal industry. Last month’s piece on customer service [Going the extra mile: What makes great customer service?] and reading the thoughts of the six nominees for the forthcoming Bridal Buyer Awards for Best Customer Service was so enlightening.

As a boutique owner, I take great pride in the service we provide, but I’m not naive enough to think that it can’t be improved. This piece got all of my staff chatting about things we can do.

These boutiques set the benchmark, and it is up to my staff and I to raise our game. It’s brilliant that we have an industry where we can share such wisdom.”

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“Longevity in business… It’s what we all dream of, but it’s not an easy ride. Like Emma Hartley said, there is no ‘magic formula’, but thanks for a superb read in the September issue of Wedding Trader. I feel like a sponge, absorbing insights from those in the know.”

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“I wanted to thank you, Wedding Trader, for being brave enough to run the debate piece last month about the dreaded WED2B situation. It’s not something we can hide under the carpet – we need to address it, and reading the well thought-out and structured answer by Simon Ryan had me nodding in agreement. Bravo!”

...and finally What’s the word on the street? We’ve rounded up who’s been saying what, whether it’s about Wedding Trader or the industry in general

“I always flick to the Wedding Trader Guide To… each issue. I get satisfaction of seeing any collections there that I stock – I must be doing something right!

– and I take notes for the ones that I don’t currently stock. Then the research begins…”

“Wedding Trader magazine is a must-read, handbagsized dose of goodness each month. Informative, views from those in the know (and those who matter), hot news and tips on the latest designers and collections. I look forward to reading it every time.”

“I loved your ‘Bespoke My Boutique’ feature in last month’s Wedding Trader magazine. While full of topnotch tips and advice, it also read in a friendly, tongue-in-cheek manner – not stuffy or pretentious at all. I sometimes lack the confidence to go ‘wild’ with my décor, but this gave me quite a few good ideas I’m going to try!”

“Wedding Trader is brilliant – I love that there are so many opinions to hear (and learn from), within the wedding industry. Not just suppliers, but fellow boutique owners, too.

Laura Daly seems to hit the nail on the head every month.”

O C T O B E R 2 0 1 8 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 106

NOW

AVAIL AB

LE IN

F IND YOUR

THE U

DREAM DRESS Use our handy tool to search through 1000’s of dresses online for all the bridal party, then click to find your nearest stockist!

www.findyourdreamdress.co.uk

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