IL Magazine (Issue 20) by Independent Life

INDEPENDENT LIFE LEEDS | YORK | YORKSHIRE

LOCAL LIFESTYLE WINTER 2021

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WELCOME BACK

It’s been two years since the last Independent Life magazine and the world has changed. Now Leeds and York are coming out the other side with a positivity to admire. In this issue we celebrate the amazing people and businesses across Yorkshire who are making this season one to enjoy. Merry Winter everyone! john@independentlife.co.uk sarah@independentlife.co.uk

John Barran - Editor Sarah Laycock - Sales

COVER

Oranges - Tomas Harker

Tom Harker is an evocative painter who went to Leeds Arts University and the Royal Academy of Art. See the artist’s exhibition at Screw Gallery on Vicar Lane in Leeds from 26th November to 23rd December.

Contents

F FOOD & DRINK 6 14 22 26 36

Season’s Eatings Fab festive food with six of the best local restaurants Season’s Drinkings Favourite winter tipples from Leeds and York’s finest bars Thirsty Work A guide to Yorkshire craft beer with O’Briens Bottle Shop Grown and Cooked in Yorkshire Discover great local produce through the seasons Tastes of the Town Stuzzi take us on a tour of Harrogate’s food and drink scene

E ENTERTAINMENT & CULTURE 40 44 50 54 56

Wintertainment A sample of the best entertainment in Leeds and York this winter Back on Track Insight into York’s railway heritage and its importance today My Life in Chapeltown A life through the years in this multicultural community Fairytale of Olde York Photos from the people of York capturing the city The Story of a Place Seven secret stories of Leeds

S SHOPPING & LIFESTYLE 62 74 78 84 90 94

Christmas Sparkle Sparkling gift ideas to treat yourself or others to this Christmas Style Continuum Diary of the changing city styles over the last two years The Time They Are a-Changing The evolution of Leeds’ Kirkgate area The Rise of the Suburbs Positive neighbourhood attitudes in Acomb and Horsforth Yorkshire Tripping Discover the delights of the picturesque town of Holmfirth Market Dates - A trip around the array of Christmas markets and fairs across Yorkshire

Photos: Left @steviecampbelluk Right 1. @raithwaitesandsend 2. @letters_wander 3. @penhaligons_london 5

Season’s Eatings

As winter approaches, we’re embracing the season with warming comforts and special treats. And what better way is there to do that than with food? From cosy home cooking to restaurant meals out, it’s the time of year to indulge yourself - and there are plenty of amazing eateries in and around Leeds and York to do just that. We asked six of the best to tell us what foodie delights they’re offering this season, and what Christmas means to them.

Skosh Neil Bentinck

‘I think people are going to relish this year; getting together, going out and embracing festivities. For us too, we’ll close on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day to relax and soak it all up. We want to let everyone celebrate and spend time with their family. From December (not earlier!) the restaurant puts nice decorations up, and we work with seasonal ingredients that are distinctive for this time of year, like game, pheasant, partridge and venison. I love sprouts, and we serve a popular dish of Brussels sprout Manchurian, which is an Indo-Chinese street food of pakoras stir fried. For the last four years I’ve also created a special Christmas dessert and we donate from every sale of it to leukemia charity Myeloma UK. The dessert is a beautiful spherical mousse - a festive chocolate bauble!’

OWT Esther Miglio

‘Winter definitely calls for thick house veggie gravy! And pickled brussel sprouts. We love to finely chop them and lightly marinate them in lemon and vinaigrette, it gives a perfect crunch to a warm dish.

Santoni Marco Di Rienzo

‘Here at Santoni we always get excited with every change of season. We love looking at produce and working alongside our trusted suppliers to inspire our quarterly changing menu. Arancini is a real Sicilian comfort food dish which has been a staple for us since opening opening our doors in 2016. This winter we have gone for the classic combination of Pumpkin and sage oozing with a molten centre of Taleggio cheese from northern Lombardy - resulting in an indulgent taste bomb, full of warmth and flavour. We employ the same vigour towards our Italian wines and would recommend pairing this dish with a glass of the Zibibbo, a dry version of the Muscat grape, with honeysuckle aromas and a balanced crisp acidity.’

It’s also amazing what you can do with a good potato; we love using Maris Pipers for chips, hash browns and mash. In the restaurant, Dottie & Sam from Hyde Park Flower Club are creating modern looking dried flower displays to look super welcoming, wintery with a touch of French feels. And we are selling my father’s wine, Château Gasqui - a beautiful biodynamic wine from my region; we are so proud to be stocking his vintages. Christmas has a very different vibe in England to in France. If I spend Christmas in Leeds, any locally sourced poultry with a thick gravy & roasted squash will bring the comfort I need to fight the cold weather. I need warm, traditional food! For this holiday, I am back with my family in France for the first time in 2 years; it gives me so much joy.’

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The Angel at Hetton Michael Wignall

‘We are looking forward to Christmas and new year, especially as we all missed it last year. The Angel loves to share this time of the year with our guests and always endeavour to make any visit here as special as possible. There is something about food at this time of year that rekindles early childhood memories. Things such as walking around London with my parents, doing the last-minute Christmas shopping and being rewarded for our hard day’s work with roasted chestnuts. We love using root vegetables, and the seasonal ingredients that stand out above the rest for me are Jerusalem artichoke, chestnuts, parsnips, and celeriac. Around the festive season I also particularly enjoy cooking with venison and game. We try to incorporate flavours like these into our menu, to revive those old memories we all have about Christmas.’

8 Menu with some great dishes evoking Christmases past, present and future. The ingredients on the Tasting Menu alone tick all of the boxes for flavours I associate with this special time of year and we, of course, make maximum use of the local feathered game; partridge, pheasant, mallard and the rest, available on our doorstep.’

Issho Iris Ingarao

‘Issho, meaning ‘together’ in Japanese, is our inspiration for the way in which we create our dishes. Our menus are based around sharing, with the food being contemporary Japanese with hints from other areas of Asia. 7

The Star Inn at Harome

Andrew Pern ‘There’s nothing so still and quiet as Christmas morning when the snow starts to fall. Winter has completed its descent upon us: the days are barely light. It’s a time for hibernation, a time for celebration, a time for comfort food, the time for Star Inn food… Over seven hundred years of hospitality have been ‘marinaded’ into the atmosphere of our famous inn; it’s a place where so many people have many personal memories and especially of Christmastime, as a place for friends and family to meet and, of course, to eat - a place to eat, drink and be merry!’ ‘The regionality of our local produce sparkles enough for most menus, but at The Star, we like to add our little twist to make the festive season even more special. This year we are offering a nine-course Festive Tasting 10

Our décor respects the Japanese Zen philosophy, and our philosophy focuses on using classic techniques and ingredients that characterise Japanese cuisine: pickles, karaage, seafood grill, fried and raw; we like to keep our emphasis on using seasonal ingredients. For the Christmas period our Chef has designed a unique selection of Japanese inspired dishes such as Spicy Duck Bao Bun, Japanese Monkfish Curry, Caviar and Lobster dragon roll. In the bar you can find a selection of cocktails inspired by traditional Japanese culture, Oriental sensations and classic methods of mixology, with a winter twist for the season. For the festive period we have partnered with Ki No Bi Kyoto Dry Gin to create a ‘Yuki Sapporo’ Terrace where guests will be able to try a specially curated cocktail menu with paired food under faux fur blankets and winter florals overlooking our wonderful city. Christmas is a time to gather with your loved ones and the people you care for the most.’

Photos: 1. @skoshyork 2. @owt.leeds 3. @santoniosteria 4. @issholds 5-7. @angelathetton 8. @thestarinnatharome 9. @issholds 11

Season’s Drinkings

There are many drinks that many people associate with this time of year. From mulled wines and snowballs to champagnes and sherries, everyone has a favourite winter tipple or two.

Whether out on the town for some festive fun or curling up at home for some Christmas comfort, there’s a dream drink for every occasion. So, to make those 14

dreams come true, we asked nine of Leeds and York’s finest bars for their seasonal recommendations.

Friends of Ham

‘My favourite winter drink is a Pedro Ximenez Sherry. It’s sweet, thick and very warming from the 15% plus alcohol hit. It’s made from over ripe grapes that are then dried in the sun and is all dates, raisins, treacle and spice. It’s perfect with chocolate, cheese and most definitely christmas pudding. You can add it to hot chocolate for a satisfying boozy hit and even pour it over ice cream. It’s a must for any winter drinks cabinet. We serve it all year round at Friends of Ham but it most definitely comes into its own as the nights draw in and the temperature drops. Fortified wines are made for food so a great option is to get it as a flight alongside our dessert trio or simply pick a couple of your favourite cheeses to go with it and get stuck in.’ 3

Prospect

‘Here at Prospect, we have prepared for the cold nights and festive season ahead. We offer a wide selection of gins, spirits, wines and locally crafted beers alongside our weekly live music events to keep you out of the cold!

We have carefully crafted our own signature gin in collaboration with Loiners. Putting our own spin on the classic G&T, we have combined our Orange and Pomegranate Prospect Gin with light tonic, a dash of winter spice and garnished with our home grown rosemary.’

Sakku

‘A standout cocktail for the festive season is the Tokyo Sunset. This cocktail offers the perfect blend of festive flavours including amaretto, bitter aperitif, ginger syrup and orange juice with a chocolate finish. The heartwarming flavours of this unique bitter-sweet cocktail make it the perfect winter warmer. Newly opened on St Peter’s Place, SAKKU offers an Asian inspired grill and Japanese sushi bar which sees dishes prepared fresh, in front of diners. This is a unique concept which is sure to bring the party to Leeds this festive period, as we remain open on both Christmas Day and NYE for those who are looking to celebrate a little differently this year.’

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Bottle Chop

‘At Bottle Chop we specialise in natural/low intervention wine, which essentially means wine is made in the way it used to be, before mass production took its hold. We are only 3 months old and so heading into our first Christmas is a super exciting time! For us at the moment it’s all about the fizz! We have an amazing selection of Pet Nats, an abbreviation for ‘pétillant naturel’ which roughly translates as ‘naturally sparkling’. Our absolute favourite of the moment is Roc’ Ambulle, a naturally sparkling pale red that’s zippy, fresh and light with notes of bright cherries, raspberries and cranberries. This is a light, at just 9.5%, fun and fruity easy drink. We currently serve Roc’ Ambulle by the glass or by the bottle, and for Christmas we’ve got it by the magnum as it’s perfect for a welcome drink at any Christmas gathering!’

Pairings

‘As the nights draw in and temperatures drop, I’m drawn to big, bold, spicy reds to really warm the soul. One particular wine that ticks all the boxes is Phantom Red by Bogle Vineyards. A blend of Petite Sirah and Zinfandel, it has notes of black fruits with aromas of tobacco and black pepper, and subtle hints of clove and

6 vanilla. The perfect wine to pair with a rich comforting lasagne. Come into Pairings for a glass or buy a bottle to takeaway and enjoy at home by the fire.’

McMillans of Malton

‘Winter is coming, the long nights are here, sigh, but that also means it’s time for some of my favourite drinks, when you can curl up next to a fire or in a cosy corner of your favourite bar with a whisky or hot drink of the alcoholic kind. Whisky has always been my bag but more recently we’ve seen a greater interest in the shop and bar. We also reckon that there’s greater demand for good cocktails and drinks that are on the different side of life. This is something I’ve knocked up I think would be good on a cold night. 2 Part Aelder Wild Elderberry Elixir, 1 Part Filey Bay Sherry Cask Reserve Whisky 1/2 Part Smoky Whisky, 3 dashes Orange Bitters. Stir together. Fill your glass before hand with boiling water then empty and pour in the good stuff. This will just get those great aromas leaping out. Garnish with Orange Peel & Honeycomb Aelder Elderberry Elixir, which is made a stones throw from where my father Jim was born, in Macmerry, Scotland, is hand foraged and great on its own but also in good quality cocktails.

5 16

Spirit of Yorkshire, yes Yorkshire whisky for those of you who are still to discover, have just released their Filey Bay Sherry Cask Reserve no.2. It’s just brilliant. Give it a go.’

Raithwaite Sandsend

‘Our Sapling Vodka Martini is a timeless classic! The hotel is partnering with Sapling Spirits to create what we believe is the first hotel Forest Garden of this kind in the UK. The planting starts in November and is a milestone in the sustainability journey of the hotel. Add ice to the martini glass to help it cool down. Stir 70ml Sapling Vodka and 20ml Dolin Dry Vermouth over lots of ice. Remove the ice from the glass, strain the liquid into the glass and garnish with lemon and apple peel.’

Sora

‘The beauty of the Old Fashioned encapsulated and covered in caramel, this winter warmer is the perfect tipple to enjoy the views seven storeys above York. Enjoy Japanese blended whiskey, washed in sesame oil, and expect delight, excitement and the boundaries of luxury pushed to the limits.’

Angelica

‘‘PG Smash’ is my favourite seasonal cocktail creation and one that I have taken from our seasonal menu in partnership with No.3 Gin and The King’s Ginger for the winter months. When creating this cocktail, I had an idea of the ingredients I wished to use. It’s trial and error sometimes, but the PG Smash was exactly how I imagined it to be, if not better. I wanted to incorporate pear vodka along with the King’s Ginger, which is a strong distinct taste, as I knew these two components would work well together. I decided to make some homemade tea sugar syrup to give it that sweet tea taste as well, and then added egg whites, giving the cocktail some volume & froth. To finish... pear fan and a good old British tea bag. And Voila! A new seasonal cocktail is born!’

Photos: 1. @mcmillansofmalton 2. @sakkurestaurants 3. @friendsofham 4. @prospect_morley 5. @ pairingswinebar 6. @bottlechop 7-8. @mcmillansofmalton 9.@raithwaitesandsend 10. @soraskybar 11. @angelica_leeds 19

INDIAN INDIAN STREET STREET FOOD FOOD

CRAFT CRAFT BEER BEER LEEDS - 6 MILL HILL

LS1 5DQ

YORKSHIRE CRAFT BEER WITH LUKE O’BRIEN

PICTURED ABOVE: SAINT MARS OF THE DESERT - LASKA PILSNER 4.4%

It can at times be a bit of a minefield, knowing what beer styles to choose, what to expect and what to look out for, sometimes it’s an impenetrable world of hazy hoppy strong beers that’s reserved exclusively for the hip among us. I’m here to tell you that there’s something in craft beer for absolutely everyone. My name’s Luke O’Brien and I run a craft beer bottle shop with my wife called O’Briens Bottle Shop. We’re based in Holmfirth, West Yorkshire and our goal is to get everyone to enjoy craft beer. There is so much great beer out there on our doorstep.

RIDGESIDE (MEANWOOD) Another fantastic small brewery in Leeds. Ridgeside have a huge range of beers and definitely something to offer everyone, right from the most hearty old school bitter to the most wild and zingy sour beers, with some great alc-free options thrown in there. They really are one of those breweries that does everything well, and have navigated the world of craft beer whilst keeping one foot firmly planted in the traditional beer roots. Ridgeside also brew the house cask for The Fenton pub in Leeds.

The big problem with getting into craft beer is that there’s so damn much of it, it can get a little overwhelming. Breweries release new beer all the time, so there’s no point in me telling you what beers to look for because between the time of writing this and it going to print the breweries I’ll be talking about will have released lots more beers. So with that in mind, here’s a guide on who to look out for and why.

TARTARUS BEERS (HORSFORTH) Horsforth based nano brewery Tartarus make incredible beer that really breaks the mould. These guys haven’t been going for a long time but they’ve managed to achieve a high acclaim within the craft beer community. Rather than sticking to heavily hopped hazy beers, Jack and Jordan brew unusual and interesting beers, that are typically less well known. Their flagship beer is Abaddon, a Russian Imperial Stout that clocks in at a staggering 17%! I know this might scare some people but beers like this aren’t to be drank in pints, they are designed to be shared and drank slowly on those cold wintery nights. In their line up they’ve got some fantastic beer styles that are great for the festive period, Belgian styles, spiced beer, fruited beers and even a purple pale ale.

NOMADIC (SHEEPSCAR) These guys brew just around the corner from the original North brewery, they lean towards the more traditional style of craft beer and real ale, however they put their own modern twist on things. I think the great thing about Nomadic is that they have a great little taproom with plenty of events and if you’re interested in how beer’s made then you can sit right across from their brew-kit and drink a fresh beer. They also offer brewery tours as well as local deliveries, so if you’re lucky enough to live close by you can get your favourite new local beer delivered fresh to your door.

TURNING POINT (KNARESBOROUGH)

These guys are about a 30-45 minute drive out of Leeds but can be found on a lot of craft beer taps around, as well as a favourite for bottle shops. They make really solid craft beer, and have a lot of fun with it. They have a good solid range of hazy beers, as well as fruited beers and some stouts. Turning Point also have a taproom at their brewery with a great takeaway beer selection. I highlighted these because they do an IPA exploration pack on their website which gives you 3 different IPAs 23

to taste. Of course with IPA’s being the most popular beer style this is a great entry point to craft beer for the uninitiated.

ZAPATO (MARSDEN) Lastly I’d like to shine a light on Zapato, they are based over in Marsden in the furthest reaches of West Yorkshire. You can get there on the train to visit their intimate brewery tap, but you can easily find their beers. Zapato is ran by Matt and Alice Goreki, Matt used to run North Bar in Leeds so he’s been in the beer game for a long time. Zapato make simple uncomplicated craft beer, it’s solid and comes in 500ml cans which is always a bonus. Their Zapatapale series is a great way

SAINT MARS OF THE DESERT (SHEFFIELD) Saint Mars or SMOD are one of my personal favourites. For me they have nailed that combination of beers that everyone can enjoy as well as doing more progressive craft offerings. They make fantastic lagers, IPAs and Belgian style beers. They are well worth a visit but you’d be able to find SMOD at your local bottle shop. They have a great rotation of beers and I always pick some up when I see it. They specialise in what’s called Koelship beer which is a more traditional European method of brewing. Essentially it’s a big bath they use to rapidly cool the beer. They do some great collaboration beers so I’d always keep an eye out for those.

5 to explore different hops, as they are single hopped beers that rotate and evolve all the time. Their cans are great as well, making use of the same designer as North. It’s just hot water, hops and malts at the end of the day but there’s so much diversity, creativity and excitement in British beer at the moment, and no one makes beer like the north.

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Words: Luke O’Brien @obriensbottleshop Photos: 1. @tartarusbeers 2. @ridgesidebrewery 3. @turningpointbrewco 4. @beerofsmod 5. @zapatobrewing

Grown and Cooked in Yorkshire

Words: Ben Daniells & Josh Whitehead Ben Daniells is a former grower for the Michelin starred Black Swan at Oldstead and acclaimed York restaurant Roots. He now runs an eco-friendly farm in the village of Fangfoss called Rocket and Russet, which produces beautiful seasonal fruit and vegetables. Josh Whitehead is the executive chef at Harewood Food & Drink Project. As one of the most respected and talented chefs in Yorkshire, he creates delicious innovative dishes with ingredients grown on the Harewood Estate. Both are passionate about the changing array of local produce throughout the year, and here Ben and Josh talk us through the calendar of great stuff that is grown and cooked in Yorkshire.

SPRING Grown

It may surprise some that Spring, otherwise known as the hungry gap, is the most difficult time of year for a grower. Success requires plenty of planning and strategy. Much of the food ready to harvest was planted before the cold winter days. Perennials such as herbs and rhubarb are a staple from the garden, yet they’re often beaten by delights found in fields and hedgerows brought to markets by the plethora of professional foragers. 26

By late Spring, the return of the warmer soils and true growing months are heralded by the sprouting of Asparagus. Fresh cut, it is almost unrivalled and it will be enjoyed by those in the know for those next few weeks.

Cooked

Some may think of butterflies, bunnies and sunshine after a hard winter. As a chef, I think green. Spring greens. I’m talking about mother nature’s jewellery box - filled with gems including, but in no way limited to,

tablespoons of caster sugar, place in a clip top jar and cover with plenty of cider vinegar and leave to stand for at least a week at room temperature before using. Make sure you shake the jar well every couple of days. We use this for hundreds of recipes, but a house favourite is to make a curd meringue pie.

1 peas, asparagus, radishes, broad beans, jersey royal potatoes, strawberries and elderflowers. Elderflower, once bloomed, you cannot miss it. A seasonal preserve we make every year at Harewood is elderflower vinegar. A great store cupboard item, it lasts throughout the year and works in an array of dishes: salsa verde, vinaigrette, curd tarts and dressing. Simply take a few large heads of elderflower and a couple of

The dish I would recommend for the start of spring is a simple salad with the best seasonal and local produce. Start by mixing a dressing of 5 tablespoons of your homemade elderflower vinegar, 8 tablespoons of Yorkshire rapeseed oil, half a teaspoon of English mustard and a good pinch of salt and pepper and whisk to make a thick dressing. Then take some banging asparagus, drizzle with a little oil and grill on high for 2 minutes until lightly browned. Cut into chunks and toss with some quartered radishes, a few raw peas (freshly shucked from the pod), ribbons of courgette, some tender lettuces and a sprinkling of fresh elderflowers. Top this with a few quartered strawberries and drizzle with your elderflower vinaigrette.

Cooked

Summer brings a plethora of glorious ingredients in a glutton of colours. Shopping at a local greengrocer is a sure-fire way of getting the best quality, as well as the cheapest and most in season produce. Seeing what is available gives you untold amounts of inspiration. But what if I told you it could be even cheaper? What if I told you it could be free? Foraging is essential in our cookery at Harewood and I think that more people should get involved. The easiest way to dip your toes in is wild garlic. It’s easy to spot, smell, pick and prepare, is so readily available in local woodlands and parks, and packed with flavour. Simply take a few large handfuls, bring it home and give it a wash in cold water before draining.

SUMMER Grown

From the challenges of a lean Spring, the emergence of Summer finally provides an inspiring array of ingredients, acting as a welcome reward to the chefs we partner with. The growing hunger for new flavours will soon be satiated and menus will once again burst with untold delights as our market garden really starts to kick off. The abundance of this season is best showcased by the ever expanding markets found at Food Circle, as things grow so quickly we are spoilt for choice. Seasonal highlights here at Fangfoss include fresh garden peas and sun ripened tomatoes. Beyond the veg patch, chickens once again join the pastures at Rosewood Farm with their collaboration with Grass Fruits. 28

Wild garlic is such a versatile ingredient. A few examples of using this could be replacing the basil in pesto, adding to soups, stews, stir fries, or salads. At home we blitz wild garlic with a glug of neutral tasting oil to make a rough paste, then put into ice cube trays and freeze. This means that throughout the year, when we start clucking for wild garlic, we can pop a couple of cubes out from the freezer. Once defrosted it is great for marinating chicken, mixing into mayonnaise, and even making sauce for all kinds of fish. I love mixing it with some finely grated parmesan and lemon zest, then tossing some fresh, warm steamed jersey royals through. A welcome side dish to any meal.

GLORIOUS INGREDIENTS If you mix a handful of chopped wild garlic into a block or two of softened butter (with a large pinch of flaky salt) you can make wild garlic butter, which also freezes well. What’s that you say? A wild garlic hollandaise sauce? YES PLEASE.

6 29

AUTUMN Grown

black pepper and 3 egg whites. Mix all of this together and add around 150g of water and knead into a dough. Roll this out and wrap around each beetroot individually, sealing it in the dough. Place these on lined baking sheets and roast at 185oc for 90 minutes. Switch off the oven and allow it to cool in there for a further hour. Then remove the dough and the skins and discard. Trust me, you do not want to eat this pastry, it’s hella salty.

For a true seasonal tour, Edible York’s Abundance project is a fantastic way to explore the mouth watering range of fruit growing on our doorstep. Comparing an early season apple to one picked in late October will make a connoisseur out of all of us.

From here, you have a deliciously tender and seasoned vegetable. We then glaze these in a beetroot based barbeque sauce and serve them with some braised venison and a liver sauce. Another use is to chop up and dress with a little balsamic vinegar, some crushed blackberries and peppery olive oil. Serve this with pumpkin, drizzle with oil and salt, and roast for 30 minutes in a hot oven, with crumbled goats cheese and some rocket.

As a grower, I look at this time of year as a transition of flavours. We move from the succulent Summer purslane onto peppery rocket and spicy mustard frills. Mutton, fit from the Summer grass is at its peak. This is also the time Yorkshire glistens with fruit; we are spoilt for choice as wineberries fill our garden, brambles decorate the hedgerows and apples and pears adorn the trees.

TRANSITION OF FLAVOURS For a liquid example of the power Yorkshire fruit holds, find yourself a bottle of naturally fermented fizz from producers like Thornborough Cider who are recreating a tipple that would be worthy of a place amongst any wine list.

Cooked

There are two types of people in the world: the people who like pumpkin spice lattes, and the people who are liars. Like pumpkin spice and all things nice, autumn brings a sense of comfort - and so does the seasonal produce that goes with it. Rich root vegetables, earth brassicas, juicy stone fruits, and more varieties of apples and pears that you can shake a pumpkin spice latte at. A great technique worth using for your bounty of autumnal goodies is salt baking. We use this a lot with our root vegetables and it works particularly well with beetroot. For two or three large beetroots, take 150g table salt, 500g plain flour, 3 tablespoons of ground

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WINTER Grown

We need to look at this time of year with a new mindset, as although traditionally seen as a lean period, a Yorkshire winter can boast a surprising glut of fresh produce. Before the frosts really take their toll, look out for winter squash and celeriac as a deliciously different way to welcome back a Sunday roast into your weekends. When the cold really sets in, you’ll find a huge range of dark green goodness such as sprouts and kales, to add to the swede and carrots stored away for the colder months. 32

Then, as the new year dawns, the legendary Rhubarb Triangle offers vibrant colours in defiance of the dark, cold January days. With ever growing international demand, we are lucky to have producers like Tomlinson’s continuing the traditions of this amazing crop on our very doorstep.

GLUT OF FRESH PRODUCE

Cooked

There are a lot of ingredients available as this time of year, but the underrated king of the allotment is the humble Jerusalem artichoke. A seriously delicious tuber that is one of the most versatile vegetables out there. Roasted, pickled, or fried. Souped, dauphinoised or mashed. Jerusalem artichokes can be combined with potatoes in various dishes to give a rich, nutty and slightly malted flavour. They are also fabulous in desserts. That’s right, desserts. You can replace carrot with grated artichoke in your cakes or infuse sliced artichokes into milk to make custard. You can also grate and cook with some honey, lemon juice and a little water over a long period of time to make a fruity jam. One of my favourite ways to use them is to pass them through a juicer and to then strain the juice through a clean tea towel. I then mix the juice with equal parts

muscovado sugar and a few sticks of cinnamon to create a delicious caramel. We cook peeled, cored and halved pink lady apples in this to render them tender, sweet and slightly chewy like that of an apple Tart Tatin. I served this with a Jerusalem artichoke custard, a black treacle biscuit and lashing of the artichoke caramel. Whichever ingredient takes your fancy and whatever you decide to do with them, if you make sure you buy local, organic and seasonal, ask the greengrocer or the market trader “what’s good?”, and you’ll set yourself up for a win.

Words: Josh Whitehead @joshwhiteheadchef and Ben Daniells @rocketandrusset Photos: 1, 3, 6, 8-10. @rocketandrusset 2, 4-5, 7, 11-12. @clairemcclean 33

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Tastes of the Town HARROGATE

Words: Tom Pearson, Stuzzi

In between York and Leeds is a town that stands alone as an aspirational piece of Yorkshire. Harrogate is a handsome and affluent spa town, and as the home of Harrogate Spa Water, Yorkshire Tea and Betty’s Tea Rooms, it is famous far beyond its locality. With attractions and beauty spots such as Valley Gardens, Turkish Baths, Royal Hall and RHS Harlow Carr, its reputation is well earned. In amongst these popular visits are an array of exceptional independents, making for wonderful shopping, unique culture, and most of all, delicious food and drink. One place that exemplifies this is the stunning Italian restaurant Stuzzi. Serving authentic small plates in a vibrant setting, Stuzzi has made Kings Road a new Harrogate hub, and their success means that Leeds is now lucky enough to have a Stuzzi of its own in the Grand Arcade. So, who better to take us on a tour of Harrogate’s bars and pubs, cafes and restaurants than Stuzzi? With plenty more besides - try The Disappearing Chin, Hales, The Orchid, Starling and Major Tom’s to name another few - here are nine of the best… 37

Little Ale House

Our go to place to drink in Harrogate; loads of real ale, no music and a chilled out atmosphere - plus the best lager in the world. It’s friendly and cosy, there are dogs running around, it’s brilliant on a sunny summer’s evening and equally as good in the winter with the log burners on full pelt. An absolute jewel.

Three’s a Crowd

A little more upmarket, Three’s a Crowd is a gastro pub that has earned itself a Michelin accolade. The food is eclectic and always well cooked and tasty. It gets very busy and is a place you can get dressed up for, so best book.

The Drum and Monkey

The Drum and Monkey has been around for nearly 5 decades and is a bit of a Harrogate institution, serving fresh seafood in a colonial environment. The food is still excellent, and the wine list is great too. It’s one of the original Harrogate restaurants and is still going strong.

Cold Bath Road

Great local hub next to town. District is a nice little bar with one of the best cigar shops in the country next door. There’s Manna Bakery doing all in house bread and cakes, Vanilli’s home make real Italian style gelato, Oliver’s fish & chips, La Feria Andalusian chicken, as well as vintage clothes stores and cafes dotted all the way up the street. Well worth a visit.

Cold Bath Brewing Co.

Cold Bath Tap Room have gone from strength to strength, set up by 3 guys that all live on nearby Cold Bath Road - although it’s actually situated on the ‘Cote de Kings Road’ between us and Brio. They brew their own beer in house in full view of the drinkers and their Cold Bath lager has become legendary locally. Definitely one of the most popular drinking establishments in town with a great heated patio in front.

Paradise Tap and Taco

3 38

Also on the Kings Road riviera, local couple Ellie and Josh smash out great tacos at Paradise Tap and Taco. Alongside these are a selection of real ales and imported beers from their extended residency at the Cold Bath Clubhouse next door.

Baltzersens

Baltzersens has stood the test of time. It’s a Scandinavian bakery and cafe set up by a Norwegian guy. Everything from the bakery is awesome and is served in the cafe. It’s perfect for breakfast and lunch, so check it out.

Domo Japanese

This little family run Japanese restaurant on Montpelllier is a massive hit with the locals, serving Japanese and Oriental food. The sushi is always really fresh and the food is cooked with care and attention.

Pizza Social

Pizza Social serves Neapolitan style pizzas with slow proved sourdough and topped with proper tomato and cheese. Really the only place to get an authentic pizza in Harrogate, it’s only small but you can also get them served to you at North Bar next door. Locally brewed beer and great pizza al fresco, what’s not to like!

5 Words: Tom Pearson @stuzziharrogate Photos: 1. @paradise_tap_and_taco_ 2. @stuzziharrogate 3. @thelittlealehouseharrogate 4. @baltzersens 5. @mrpizzasocial 39

Wintertainment

Winter is a time of year to entertain and to be entertained. For some, this means hosting family gatherings at Christmas and new year. For others, there are social outings to catch up with friends and to treat yourself. After the write off that was winter 2020/21, Leeds and York are making up for it in 21/22 with an array of eclectic entertainment. From festive walks and Santa visits to music concerts and theatre shows, there are amazing options for all ages and tastes. Here’s a sample of the cities’ best wintertainment.

York Minster

At one of the world’s most amazing cathedrals, York Minster, you can explore the meaning of Christmas through a journey around the minster and take part in interactive activities. At ‘Experience Christmas Together’, from December 4th to the 18th, you can appreciate the evocative setting and enjoy a special day out with the family.

Barbican

York Barbican has an eclectic selection of entertainment for this winter season, with some real Christmas crackers within. Following the UK Snooker Championship, December brings in big name comedy from Jack Dee, Katherine Ryan, Jason Manford and Alan Carr, and music that includes a Christmas Carol Concert, a Harry Potter show, and the annual joy that is folk singer Kate Rusby’s Christmas performance.

The Belfrey

The Belfrey is a large Anglican Church opposite York Minster. Built in the 16th century, this is a wondrous setting for The Big Christmas Concert. So, on the 3rd and 10th December that’s exactly what’s happening, with classic Christmas tunes, brass bands and bags

of festive cheer. Mixing Slade and The Pogues with favourite carols, there’s sure to be something for everyone to enjoy here.

FUN AND FROLICS Grand Opera House

The stunning York theatre gets us ready for the festive season with a week of the Christmas favourite Elf: The Musical from 25th November to 3rd December. This live adaptation by York Stage Ltd is followed by a month of performances from local legend Berwick Kaler in Dick Turpin Rides Again. Fun and frolics are not to be missed at this one which runs from 11th December to 9th January. 41

and New Year when tribute acts and local favourites perform crowd pleasing sets, including Fleetwood Mac, Prince, Bruce Springsteen, Slade, AC/DC… and a Leeds Punk Rock Xmas!

A UNIQUE DELIGHT Winter Village Temple Newsam

Twinkling lights and seasonal sounds create a fabulous festive mood after dark at Temple Newsam’s beautiful grounds and gardens. Enjoy the illuminations with an evening wander between 26th November and 2nd January, and you might bump into Father Christmas along the way.

FABULOUS FESTIVE MOOD Leeds Playhouse

All of Leeds city centre’s theatres are getting us in the Christmas spirit, and nowhere more so than at Leeds Playhouse, who are travelling to Neverland this Winter. From 24th November to 22nd January Wendy & Peter Pan take to the stage for a theatrical and unforgettable journey for all the family.

Brudenell Social Club

With great gigs and an inclusive atmosphere, Brudenell has gained a reputation as one of the country’s best venues. Good times are enhanced here every Christmas 42

At Leeds’ Temple Arches comes a new winter experience running until the end of the year. The cosy wonderland Winter Village is a joyous variety of goings on. Areas include ski lodge, tipis, food village and winter gardens, plus the stage and the two storey bar The Hutte entertain in ways that range from DJs to curling. A unique delight. Illustration: Hetty Laycock @hettylaycock

CO C KTAIL

S C A N

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B O O K

RESTAU RA N T

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‘ A L C H E M I S T

S E A R C H

L E E D S ’

Back on Track Words: Shaun Page

York is a place more indebted and entwined with its geography than you might first think. The converging rivers Ouse and Foss likely help explain the archeological evidence of habitation stretching back nearly 10,000 years. From stone age, to bronze age, to iron age; these waters supported human life. For the Romans, Eboracum represented something more - a gateway to the great north beyond. Sitting at the entrance to the narrow corridor between the Yorkshire Dales to the west and the North York Moors to the east, York was of huge strategic importance to the Romans and their advance north to Scotland. This blueprint established by the Romans allowed the city to continue changing and evolving long after they’d left. Eboracum became first Ebrauc, then Eoforwic under the Angles, then Jorvik under the Danes, finally settling into York during the medieval era following the Norman conquests. The city is often viewed through very specific lenses focusing on just one of these identities but York’s true identity is the result of countless centuries all woven together. The famous walls, started by the Romans and upgraded by the Danes survive today largely thanks to medieval Normans and Victorian Britons. Two millennia 44

of history wrap the city in stone, its layers bare for all to see. The Victorians left another large legacy in the city the railways. It is believed that York was the country’s original railway city, with plans by George Stephenson (the father of the railways) for the first passenger trains discovered here in a notebook dated 1822. Starting as a temporary wooden building outside the city walls on Queen Street in 1839, this was succeeded in 1841 by a permanent station, breaching the city walls in the process. York and North Midland Railways architect George Townsend Andrews was given the unenviable task of knocking a hole through the famous walls. Much like the Romans before them the Victorians were on a quest north to Scotland, only this time in steam and steel. A myriad of different companies emerged with separate lines and trains. York ended up in the bizarre position of through trains to Newcastle and beyond having to reverse out of the once terminus station within the walls to continue their journey. The rise of the railways through the 19th century was led by York’s most famous son of the railways George

Leeman, who was chairman of York, Newcastle and Berwick Railway, North Eastern Railway, and the Railway Association of Great Britain. His statue stands impressively today on Station Rise, by the first arch outside the city walls. In 1877 the present station was opened replacing the first, yet the tracks through the city walls remained for 88 years with the building being used as carriage storage space. In 2010, 169 years after its initial construction, the building found fresh life by becoming York City Council’s new headquarters. There remains a larger problem to tackle with York’s railway heritage. Just west of the current station is one of the largest city centre brownfield regeneration sites in England. A mass of old tracks, sidings, carriage sheds and wagon works taking up an area of 45 hectares of prime city centre real estate. Hidden amongst it all is the wonderful National Railway Museum, obscured by the skeletal remains of the history it so carefully tries to preserve, which seems a cruel irony. A collaborative development partnership between York Council, Network Rail, the National Railway Museum and Homes England intends to turn all of this around. The site has been designated as a UK Government ‘Housing Zone’ and has also been awarded ‘Enterprise Zone’ status, which offers commercial occupiers significant incentives. There are plans for up to 2,500 homes and up to 112,000m2 of office, leisure and retail uses. Together with rail operators Northern and LNER, York is building directly on its railway heritage to secure its future in both the literal and the figurative sense. Much like it did just over a century ago, the city can lead the way forward as a public transport hub but this time with a much closer eye on the surrounding environment. The approved plans would vastly improve access to both York Station and the Railway Museum, particularly in terms of disability access. New pedestrian and cycle

access routes across the site link everything together including the city’s first new park in decades. York Council’s contractors John Sisk & Sons started site clearance works in January 2021. Where possible redundant track that is removed will be reused or recycled which is refreshing. Following consultation with local residents in 2018, the Millennium Green Trust agreed a package which includes replacement land, landscaping, upgrades to footpaths and facilities and a payment of £375,000 to secure the Trust’s future. They have been working diligently since 1998 to protect a 6.5 acre area on the edge of the proposed York Central site and as a result a beautiful ‘nature reserve’ has evolved much to the benefit of local residents. York station itself of course plays a key role in all this. The station front has long been chaotic yet slow moving. The 8 point master plan put forward removes Queen Street bridge and creates new open areas revealing the long-hidden views of the city walls. Visitors by train will finally be greeted with an entrance to the city that looks towards the future whilst carefully acknowledging the past which brought it here. This project, together with the development of York Central, the new Scarborough Bridge project, and the Hudson House project, will help to secure the city’s future for the coming generations. Building on both the city’s pre-industrial past of being the centre of the north and the post-industrial legacy of a major public transport hub but this time with an informed 21st century understanding of the environmental impact. The key now is the community working together; people making their voices heard to ensure the final shape this all takes is something that truly serves the people of York as well the many visitors who sustain it, for the next century and beyond. Words: Shaun Page @warehouse606 Photos: 1. @nationalrailwaymuseum 2. @steviecampbelluk 47

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My Life in Chapeltown Words: Heather Nelson

Born in St. Mary’s Hospital, Leeds was my home. From a flat on Louis Street to proud tenants of a new council estate, Leopold Grove in Inner North East Leeds, I stayed until my early teens when my family bought our house in Chapel Allerton - which seemed so far away! I later realized why; although Chapel Allerton was only a few bus stops away from Chapeltown, back then the real feel of community was to be had. In the summer you could hear the busy noise of children playing near the garages which separated Leopold Street from Leopold Grove, or on the grass where the children centre now stands. I remember vividly one summer when we, the children and parents, played rounders. We were so competitive! I can’t remember who won, which makes me think Leopold Street must have won and I blocked this out my memory! You would hear mothers calling their children in from

their back doors when it was time to come in. For me, the ‘stumps’ at the end of our path indicated my boundaries, go past them at your peril. School holidays consisted for some of going to Studley Grange, a building on Louis Street. They organised trips to places like Rhyl. The aroma of our packed lunches used to fill the coaches - fried chicken and dumplings usually, some did take sandwiches usually made with harddough bread. Parents really did look out for each other’s children, and we all knew this and definitely modified our behavior when we saw grown-ups; why? Because without the modern ‘mobile’ they managed to communicate any disapproving behavior to your home before you got there and questions and consequences followed - and our parents knew how to dish out consequences. Church played an important role for many back then. Sunday school was a must for many of us. For me, it was New Testament Church of God which initially was up a cobbled street off Chapeltown Road prior to moving to Easterly Road. I’m proud to say my Grandfather Bishop Nelson was very instrumental with this church development here in Leeds. Events such as Christenings and Weddings were huge. You didn’t count invitees and pay for catering per head, it was huge pots of rice and curry goat, fried chicken and fish, usually all made by family and friends, and you made sure you had enough - and then some - for people to take home.

Fond memories of walking home from dances at 51

THE CITY I CALL HOME 4

Primrose High School – Queen Show and Last Lap, and when older the Gaiety on News Year’s Eve, to the point where some climbed through the windows just to get into Gaiety before New Year countdown. To reminisce further, we ventured into town to Tiffany’s while those older went to Belinda’s. When we wanted a local landmark to meet, Cantors was usually the place; even for those who were travelling into Leeds, they knew about Cantors Fish Bar. The joy of Chapeltown was everything you needed, even banks and a post office were on Chapeltown Road, from Mrs Parris breadshop which had the breads just like the Caribbean, pork bread, coca bread, bread shaped like swans for weddings, coconut tarts straight out the oven, and the fresh patties were to die for. Jenny’s Hairdressers was there too, although I travelled into town to Margret’s for my curly perms. Chapeltown Community Centre was active with its various after school activities and during the weekend dances would be held there, sound clashes showing off with their personalised dub plates and the girls supporting which ever sound they felt connected to. Then we had ‘Boys Club’ at the bottom of Chapeltown Road, a new venue. Parties, dances and sound clashes 52

by night, and a nurturing of young excellent black sporting talent. We look now and I don’t see the banks or the post office any more, but fast food takeaways, mini markets and liquor stores. Then the sun comes out, and if you walk down Chapeltown Road you hear the heart of the community coming from speakers, and your nostrils twitch with the aroma of jerk pans. Barber shops and hairdressers along with florists alongside shops from the Polish, Romanians amongst Ethiopians, to list but a few of the other communities. National award winning Black Health Initiative and Northern School of Contemporary Dance are just two of the charities on the road itself. No, not gone, but merged with others. Definitely one of the most diverse areas of the multicultural city of Leeds, the city I call home.

Photos: 1-2. Heather Nelson 3. leodis.net 4. @cantors.fish.bar 5. leodis.net

Shambles @steviecampbelluk

Fairytale of Olde York I’ve got a feeling This year’s for me and you So happy Christmas I love you baby I can see a better time When all our dreams come true

1. The York Ghost Merchants @philchan_ 2. York Minster @thomholmes 3. Low Petergate @yorkshire_brew 4. The Golden Fleece @yorkshire_pudding

The Story of a Place

Cities are often defined by their bigness; it’s easy to forget that our daily experience of a city is made up of tiny, intimate, seemingly unimportant encounters. The story of a place isn’t found in the top 10 most visited attractions. The story of a place is told by the little, subtle, often overlooked things we walk past everyday. There are secrets behind street signs, tales behind telegraph poles and legends behind the letters that adorn the walls, streets and buildings across the urban space we call home. Every place has a story that it is itching to tell - we just need to stop for a minute, look and listen.

Brightbart

Tinker, Tailor… Jewish Leeds Up until the 1950s more than half of all the suits made in Britain were crafted in Leeds. If you were a working man that deserved a well fitting two piece, Leeds was the place to be measured. It was a reputation built around the skills and grit of Jewish migrants. Centre to this suiting revolution was the name Jack Brightbart. From humble beginnings, Gershon Breitbart had fled poverty and persecution in 56

Russia, changed his name and set up his own business in his kitchen making suits for his neighbours and loved ones. As Leeds business grew, so did Jack’s. By the 1940s he and his brother Julius had set up a small factory near the river to supply massive brands like Hepworth’s and John Collier with jackets and trousers for their ‘ready-made’ collections. They went through the decades, expanding and upgrading factories until they settled on Meanwood Road in 1973. Fashions changed, manufacturing moved away and quality tailoring was replaced by fastfashion… but the story doesn’t end there. Opposite Leeds Grand Theatre, the Brightbart name is still quietly displayed with pride. Jack’s two sons, Clive and Mervyn, are carrying on their family legacy; making suits both ready to wear and made to measure. While fashions have moved away from the craft of tailoring, the heritage of Leeds’ bespoken past endures in a small yet perfectly measured corner of the city.

Leeds Time

Who needs a tick… all Leeds aren’t we Above the door of the New Inn in Headingley there’s

That said… if you’re running 5 minutes late, just tell ‘em… ‘Nope, I run on Leeds time…’.

Braime

Women at work, women at war… making a world of difference. Down behind Leeds Dock is a beautiful factory. The works were founded in 1888 by the two brothers Braime who set about designing and manufacturing the finest of fine oil cans... and they were delightful! In the early 1900s the focus of the factory changed to that of munitions for the war effort and with it came a change in workforce. Women were working like they never had before. a clock that doesn’t tick. ‘No Tick’ means ‘no credit’, stating clearly to punters that if you want a pint in the third pub on the Otley Run, you’d best bring your wallet.

The introduction of female staff meant an upgrade for the building, and in 1917 an on-site canteen was constructed. Unlike for men, it was considered necessary to provide female staff with hot meals during their shifts.

The No Tick Clock is always about six minutes before. In the first half of the 19th century there was no right time - none that we all agreed on anyway. For centuries there was no need for time to be measured accurately; the transition from day to night or where the sun was in the sky was enough for most to go about their business. According to the sun, Leeds was (and still is) six minutes and ten seconds behind London. In the 1800s two things changed. First, railways were constructed; connecting towns and cities, making the time between them shorter. Secondly, the telegraph was invented; allowing communication between 2 places almost instantaneous. Throughout the 19th century, there were increment changes as networks grew and the country became smaller. Then in 1884 the world came together in agreement. At the International Meridian Conference leaders agreed to unify world time with GMT at its centre, that the day should start at midnight and counted to 24 hours. After 1884 time was no longer personal, it was shared.

The canteen was never removed, never repurposed; it was updated to separate genders but the on-site eatery remained. While this little facility update might seem unimportant, what it signified was a permanent female presence in a male oriented industry even after the war was won. They changed the world. The building is now home to the Leeds University Technical College whose vision is to develop students who will make as valuable a contribution to society as they do the engineering industry. That endeavour is a fitting tribute to the women that once walked its floors. Women of Leeds who seized their moment of social change through skill, determination and world winning hard work. Women that came, made and conquered.

Tower Works

Obsession, passion and chimneys. The Tower Works were built by Thomas Harding. Born in Lille, Harding inherited a steel pin manufacturing 57

while it did, the more likely reason for its inclusion was to save on waste. Waste that could be reused to make more pins! We know recycling is cool but if you can make something from nothing inside the bell tower of a 1330s Italian cathedral in Leeds... well... isn’t that the dream? Thomas Walter Harding thought so.

The Benefactory JD for 1893 business from his Leeds-born father. In 1858, while looking to expand his family’s business into the UK, Thomas selected a site in Holbeck to build his new factory. When he first built his pin factory in Leeds it was much like any other - brick, mortar with a chimneystack, making lots of steel pins. As his success grew, Harding’s passion began to influence his decisions. Harding loved Italian architecture, so his first change was to add a chimney in 1866 styled after the Torre dei Lamberti in Verona. Then, in 1899, he hired William Bakewell to design extensions to his factory. Bakewell’s designs were, of course, Italian influenced throughout but the pièce de résistance was a new chimneystack. It was modelled on the bell tower of Giotto’s cathedral in Florence and it’s a belter! However, the chimney had a hidden feature - this chimney had filters. Well ahead of their time, the filters in the chimney trapped metal dust, created by the factory below. Some say that this futuristic addition was to minimise pollution produced by the factory, and

Before air bubbles in trainers, three stripes on trousers and jumping men on basketballs, there was the Benefactory in Morley! If you needed a jaunty sports jacket, some fine breeches matched with a knee length stocking or a trumpeted shape skirt suitable for daytime bicycling the Benefactory was the place to be; it was the JD of 1893. Led by the invention of the drop-frame safety bicycle, there was a need for more appropriate womenswear. Women rejected corsets in favour of more comfortable attire: free flowing skirts, shirts, jackets and even lady’s trousers.... outrageous! This was the ‘naughty nineties’ after all. Not to be left in the dust, for men, the ‘Blazer’ and the boat shoe made their entrance. They were clothes designed for activity, but not necessarily worn for purpose. Like most trainers today haven’t seen a running track, the sportswear of the 1890s said to people, ‘yes, I sail’, but meant you didn’t have to buy the boat. The Benefactory was built and owned by draper, Frederick Tesseyman. He was a shopkeeper who took care of his crew. He was famous around town as the man that fought for and won a half-day closing on Tuesdays for ALL shops in Morley. Perhaps so that those he employed could enjoy an afternoon bicycle ride or even a spot of sailing… or just head to the pub looking like they had.

Oddball

The industrial giant, sleeping amongst the birds In 2020, walking outside somewhere, anywhere, became more valuable than it once was. One of the most beautiful spots in Leeds for a wander is tucked away neatly at the edge of the city in Swillington. St Aidens Nature Park is a former coalfield turned into 58

As British people revelled in a peace they didn’t expect to lose, developers were building. Dancehalls, social clubs and buildings to house new fads like film were being assembled on mass. In 1913 the Brudenell Road Social Club was being converted into a cinema... and it was a beaut. The Hyde Park Picture House is one of Britain’s oldest surviving cinemas and its preservation is outstanding. The very year the little cinema opened the world was flipped upside down, innocence was replaced with severance, a flamboyant lifestyle replaced by war. After war came a pandemic, followed by economic depression. The world would never return to that same age of excitement and wonder - yet Picture House still stands. a series of wetlands, meadows and woods filled with natural wildlife. But as you park your car, before you see a single bird, bush or vista you are met with a most curious feature: a 3 storey tall, metal and rusting ‘thing’. Not a building but seemingly too big to be a vehicle; it sits and you simply wonder. This beautiful beast is a 1948 ‘Bucyrus Erie 1150b walking dragline’ affectionately named Oddball. Too big to be fitted with tank style caterpillar tracks, the behemoth would drag a bucket along the strip mine, peeling layer after layer of coal and earth by slowly lifting its feet and propelling itself forward. To put it simply, Oddball didn’t drive… it walked.

Its preservation is inspiring because we chose to keep it. A cinema has never won a war, never cured an illness or stimulated an economy. All it could do was pick us up, get us out of our chair and allow us to live a life. We did it then… we can do it again. After a year of struggle, our favourite places are open and ready for us again. Time for us to choose the things we value. Whether that is building or just our favourite coffee stop. Hopefully, we can follow in the footsteps of history… choose right… and give the people of the next century the opportunity to look back at us and wonder… how the heck did they do that? Words: @letters_wander Photos: @letters_wander

Gifted by the United States, to aid Britain’s recovery after WWII, Oddball began its walking work in Wales, then Staffordshire, before finally ending up in LS26 in 1974. After 50 years of walking, Oddball now sits atop a hill above the stunning nature reserve, keeping a watchful eye on the birds that flock to the grounds it once wandered. That’ll do Oddball, that’ll do.

1913

Survival and Revival. 1913 is a very interesting year for architecture. It’s seen the Edwardian age of innocence, conjuring images of croquet on the lawn, feet in the sea and evenings attending the arts. 59

Why settle for the ordinary rental experience when you can live somewhere as extraordinary as you?

BEDROOM

MUSTARD WHARF has changed the renting scene in the Southbank area making it fairer and more flexible – it’s a happy and easy way to rent in everyone’s favourite city.

PRIVATE DINING ROOM

Leeds has always been a place that welcomes the new, so it’s no surprise that since Mustard Wharf came onto the scene in early 2020 people have been eagerly embracing its innovative way of renting; one that’s fairer and more flexible enabling residents to live life to the full in the city they love. Designed specifically for renters, this collection of 1, 2 and 3 bedroom boutique apartments is just 5 minutes’ walk from Leeds station, in the heart of the vibrant Southbank district. As well as canalside walks, the area has an array of bustling cafés, restaurants and amazing independent shops.

ROOF TERRACE

The offer here is hard to match; a great location, design-led apartments, plenty of private and shared outdoor space and thoughtful extras that make renting a whole lot more inviting. Mustard Wharf is the creation

ON-SITE GYM

OPEN PLAN LIVING AREA

of Legal & General, who are on a mission to improve the quality of renting for city dwellers. And the quality is tangible throughout the development. The apartments feature high-spec kitchens, plenty of built-in storage, grade A/A+ appliances. The exposed ceilings and walls provide a modern-industrial yet cosy feel. A premium-quality furniture package curated by a team of interior designers is available for those who need it – including bespoke pieces from Scandinavian designer HAY – all set up and ready for when you move in. There are plenty of apartments available without furniture if you prefer to BYO. Fibre optic broadband is included in the rent and available wherever you are from the moment you move in so working from home has never been so easy. Outside your apartment, there are masses of communal spaces for residents to enjoy: 3 spacious rooftop terraces are only the start, with a clubhouse, high-tech gym, private dining rooms and work spaces all included. As well as secure car parking and bike storage, residents also get complementary MetroCards and deals on car club memberships. What really sets Mustard Wharf apart are the thoughtful details that come as part of the package. You decide the length of your stay here, from 6 months to 5 years. There’s an on-site team to help

WHAT’S INCLUDED IN YOUR RENT

FLEXIBLE CONTRACTS

ON-SITE TEAM & MAINTENANCE

SUPER FAST BROADBAND

PET FRIENDLY APARTMENTS

RESIDENTS’ ONLY ON-SITE GYM

ROOF TERRACES & COURTYARDS

LOUNGE & WORKSAPCES

PRIVATE DINING ROOM

with everything from receiving parcels and maintenance, to organising events for residents to meet and mingle. Pets are welcome and you can decorate your apartment – it’s your home to enjoy however suits you best. This is truly is extraordinary living. Book your viewing and join the Mustard Wharf community today. For all enquiries, contact the residents’ services team: +44(0)113 468 9220 mustardwharf.com @mustard.wharf 1 beds from £990 pcm, average size 469 sq.ft. 2 beds from £1,435 pcm, average size 719 sq.ft. 3 beds from £1,435 pcm, average size 969 sq.ft.

Christmas Sparkle 1

We’re back at that time of year when the nights are getting darker, the weather’s getting colder and the Christmas lights are shining once again. And as we enter the festive season, there’s nothing better than treating yourself or someone you love to something special. Whether that be a luxurious night away, an excellent meal at an elegant restaurant, or something extra to add to your wardrobe, we all deserve a treat sometimes. So, to help when you’re out Christmas present shopping, and for that certain Christmas sparkle, here are some great gift ideas to enjoy.

YORK Spa Stays

Luxury can come in all shapes and sizes, and glam isn’t always the way, but when it’s Christmas time that’s the perfect excuse to go a bit fancy. Yorkshire is one of the most beautiful counties in the country, and you can appreciate the landscapes and views it has to offer by taking a trip out to one of many luxury hotels. 62

If you’re looking for a beautiful coastal retreat, Raithwaite Spa at Sandsend, near Whitby, is the perfect place to unwind and enjoy some downtime. Known for its rejuvenating treatments, stress-relieving spaces and elegant accommodation, Raithwaite has everything you need to relax. For a true hidden jewel, Grantley Hall in Ripon is an ideal spot located in the Yorkshire Dales. Home to 47 luxury rooms, Michelin star dining, tranquil spa experiences and five stunning bars, you’re in for the ultimate treat. Closer to York city centre, Middlethorpe Hall is a beautiful country house set in 20 acres of lovely gardens and parkland. Bringing together the best of city and countryside stays, Middlethorpe Hall is renowned for its secluded boutique spa and memorable dining experience. And The Grand in the centre of York is a Grade II listed five star hotel and spa that acts as an escape from the outside world. You can enjoy the perfect staycation by making the most of their spa packages, enjoy a selection of classic and signature cocktails in their intimate 1906 Bar, or treat yourself to a stylish room to make the most of this Grand experience.

Dining

Take a break from cooking at home and dine out at your

3 choice from the many delicious places to eat in York. Sitting above the city on the seventh floor of Malmaison is Sora, a new dining experience that combines the flavours of Asia in sushi, tapas dishes and signature cocktails. This rooftop terrace is the perfect spot to take in the panoramic city views, and enjoy a few fine drinks. Also in Malmaison you will find the iconic Chez Mal Brasserie, where you can tuck into their twist on classic dishes for breakfast, lunch or dinner. And if you’re a sucker for a classic cocktail, their Malchemy menu is full of favourites including Martinis, Mojitos and Daiquiris. Modern European restaurant Le Cochon Aveugle is an intimate eatery serving a blind tasting menu. Producing food which is rooted in classic French techniques, the team offers casual fine-dining and will introduce you to a world of new flavours and ingredients. For another dining experience to impress, The Ivy is always an excellent choice. This famous restaurant encompasses contemporary and seasonal British menus, creating a sophisticated and relaxed atmosphere for anyone dining in.

4 pieces designed in-house, vintage items and other luxury products, Ogden’s is the place to search for the finest gift. Palenque Jewellery on Low Petergate are dedicated to creating and designing unique jewellery, working with skilled artisans to produce beautiful and original collections. So if you’re looking for a statement piece or relaxed glamour, Palenque has so many amazing items for you to choose from this Christmas season.

Trying out a michelin-star restaurant is always a special experience, and Roots is just that. Proud to have an exciting and innovative menu curated by chef Tommy Banks, which adopts a different style throughout the year. The menu evolves with the produce and harvest, and uses the best quality, local suppliers to create a truly unique menu.

Jewellery

With Christmas right around the corner, what better occasion is there to give the gift of jewellery? And for many people, the more glamorous the better! Ogden’s have carefully crafted and curated beautiful collections for high-profile clients, public figures and the royals. This established jewellers has existed for over a century, originally beginning in Harrogate before moving to York in 2015. With extensive ranges of branded jewellery, 64

Gifts

Whether it be a tempting box of chocolates, dainty homeware pieces or scented candles, the best things often come in small packages. But where to find them? Begin with the amazing aromas of The Little Yorkshire Candle Company, a shopper’s haven of candles, diffusers and fragrances. You may even find some quirky homeware pieces and gift boxes filled with luxury candles, dried flowers, cards or wax melts.

Smelling equally enticing, The Yorkshire Soap Company is a luxurious gift and bodycare store that transports you through a magical retail experience. Perfect for those who love self care and being pampered, The Yorkshire Soap Co. is a sanctuary of soothing and relaxing bodycare products, inviting scented collections and Christmas inspired gifts. For the sweet toothed, try the chocolate shop on High Petergate, Tempt, a plant-based chocolaterie who create tasty treats everyday. As well as making their own vegan milk and white chocolate, they produce other treats like caramels and truffles that are both ethical and delicious.

More fabulous foodie treats can be had at Fenwick’s, and especially their Northern Delights hamper. This Christmas collection of locally sourced food and drink, from spreads and sweets to teas and ales and plenty more, is a perfect Yorkshire present that’s sure to please. Moving on to Bootham and a unique independent interiors shop that’s stacked with wonderful Christmas decorations and stylish gifts. Upside Down Design offers thoughtful gifts for you, for him, for her, for the baby, for the home, and even gifts for pets! And on Stonegate, The White Company sells beautifully designed products in their signature white, stocking everything from beauty and clothing to stylish homeware pieces.

Photos: 1-2. @ntmiddlethorpe_hall 3. @malmaisonhotels 4. @ogden_harrogate 5. @palenque_jewellery 6. @thelittleyorkshirecandle 7. @yorkshiresoap 8. @ thewhitecompany 9. @ fenwickofficial

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five star EXPERIENCE

Ripon, North Yorkshire HG4 3ET | +44(0) 1765 620070 | hello@grantleyhall.co.uk www.grantleyhall.co.uk

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LEEDS Spa Stays

You don’t need to travel far from Leeds to find an inviting hotel and spa. Luxury four star Oulton Hall is only a few miles from the centre for a nearby break from the buzz of city life to a quieter scenic setting. You can have a serious pamper weekend by appreciating some first-class treatments and unwinding with a drink or two in their Champagne Bar. A truly unique destination in Otley, Chevin Country Park Hotel & Spa is the UK’s largest log cabin, that’s surrounded by birch forest and looks onto a picturesque lake. Take a dip in their pool, melt your stresses away in their ‘alpine feel’ Scandinavian style retreat and lounge before the New Year’s festivities begin.

The Devonshire Arms Hotel & Spa is a rejuvenating trip to the countryside and fuels the soul through wining and dining. This country house on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales is surrounded by picture-perfect views and is the ideal place for an indulgent, peaceful weekend.

Dining

Christmas is the perfect time to indulge in lots of good food before those challenging New Year’s Resolutions, and Leeds has quite the selection of stunning places to celebrate the season. The exquisite setting of Tattu brings something unique to the culinary scene. Diners can embrace this contemporary Chinese restaurant in sharing dishes and small plates, all surrounded by an aesthetically-beautiful interior. One of the other most beautiful restaurants in Leeds city centre is Iberica, a Spanish tapas restaurant and bar located within a Grade II listed former cloth merchants. 69

Gifts

Taking a wander around the eclectic stores of Leeds is sure to find you that perfect gift for someone special. Neom Organics in Victoria Gate believe in wellbeing, can help you sleep better and lift your mood. Their complex fragrances use only the purest essential oils to give you true wellbeing benefits, created for their aromatherapy traits and they smell wonderful. If you know someone who needs to unwind, relax and destress, then a product from Neom is sure to be the perfect match.

Escape the winter weather and step into Iberica for an authentic and elevated Spanish experience, and visit their basement bar, La Bodega, that serves a selection of over 70 Spanish wines. At San Carlo, all your Italian cravings will certainly be satisfied. Their chic, contemporary dining space pairs perfectly with their fresh Italian menu and drinks, and is the ultimate place for a date night or post-work drinks to begin the Christmas celebrations. And in the glorious Grand Arcade is Stuzzi, an oasis of Italian small plates and traditional flavours. Combining modern Italian cooking and street food, they’ve truly tapped into the tastes of Italy and brought them impeccably to Yorkshire.

Jewellery

Also inside Leeds’ Victoria Quarter is one of the finest perfume boutiques, Penhaligon’s. Selling luxury fragrances for both men and women, Penhaligon’s are renowned for their impressionable scents and extraordinary products; they’re the true epitome of fancy gifting. Charbonnel et Walker is Britain’s first and finest chocolatier, all hand-made following traditional recipes. Treat tastebuds to Charbonnel favourites like their truffle gift boxes, Marc de Champagne chocolates or drinking chocolate powders. For a wide choice of treats this Christmas, department store Harvey Nichols is the place to visit. This luxury retail paradise is home to designer fashion, beauty, food, wine and fragrances, featurings brands such as Dior, Jo Malone, Burberry, Chanel and Ralph Lauren. Offering the ultimate shopper’s experience, a gift for anyone can be found inside the four floors of Harvey Nichols. Photos: 1. @chevinhotel 2. @lee_j_cooper 3. @oultonhallspa 4. @ibericarestaurants 5. @stuzzileeds 6. @penhaligons_london 7. @berrysjewellers

Berry’s Jewellers have become renowned for their exceptional quality and present their customers with a range of the latest fashion trends alongside traditional and classic pieces. With a heritage dating back to 1897, their designers can create a completely unique piece of jewellery from scratch if you’re looking for something extra special this Christmas. Another luxury jewellery store recently opened in Leeds Victoria Quarter, Boodles. Existing since 1798, Boodles have become the ultimate glamorous jeweller in the UK, sourcing the world’s most exciting gemstones, exceptionally rare sapphires and rubies or tanzanites only found in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro. So, if you’ve got a bit of cash to splash this Christmas then Boodles is the place to standout.

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VICTORIA QUARTER CHRISTMAS GIFTS

Penhaligon’s The Nose Twitchers £56

Charbonnel et Walker The Boite Blanche 500g £72

NEOM 12 Days Of Wellbeing £150

Berry’s 18ct White Gold Pear Tanzanite and Diamond Earrings £2,395

Yorkshire Jewellery 18ct Yellow Gold Fancy Set Cluster Ring £2,495

Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir Cologne 100ml £105

Style Continuum A photographic diary by Edi Adegbola

CONTINUUM

NOUN

A CONTINUOUS SEQUENCE IN WHICH ADJACENT ELEMENTS ARE NOT PERCEPTIBLY DIFFERENT FROM EACH OTHER, BUT THE EXTREMES ARE QUITE DISTINCT. 75

Previous page, left to right

September 30th 2020 (Left)

York Castle Museum. Cosy knitwear before the weather gets too cold. Cable knit sweater is from Gap.

November 17th 2020 (Right)

Spring Espresso, York. Takeaway coffee run in double denim layered under a beige overcoat and navy woollen scarf. This page, left top to bottom

December 18th 2020

Partisan, York. Layering up for a quick coffee with light wash jeans, an indigo denim jack and a tweed blazer.

January 1st 2021

My house, York. Ringing in the new year with a rollneck sweater and housecoat from a charity shop.

May 19th 2021

Angelica bar, Leeds. First night out with no restrictions! Wearing a black shirt, black t shirt and black trousers, finished with herringbone tweed blazer. Right page, clockwise from top

November 11th 2021

Flight Club, Leeds. A minimal look with a black rollneck and light grey pleated linen trousers.

November 12th 2021

Principal York. Tonal look with a white polo shirt, beige overcoat and pleated trousers.

November 13th 2021

Friargate, York. A fully charity shop look. Pleated trousers paired with a snazzy knitted sweater vest and double breasted navy overcoat. Photos: @ediadegbola 76

The Times They Are a-Changing Words: Shaun Page

Kirkgate can lay claim to a crucial piece of the city’s history, in that as far as we can tell it’s where Leeds began. With little to no written history prior to Bede’s mention in 730 AD, little is known about Leeds’ AngloSaxon or Roman history, the remains of the 9th/10th stone cross in Leeds Minster being one of the few pieces of evidence. Growth was slow. For centuries the area was focussed on agriculture and basic textiles - people were simply feeding and clothing themselves with little surplus being traded. In 1470 the city was still obscure enough to be described as being ‘near Rothwell’, which was already an incorporated market town. Kirkgate and its surrounding area would have been open fields cultivated on the principle of strip farming and beyond, Leeds was covered by the thick forests of Elmet. The parish church was the focal point of this small market village. The updated charter issued by Charles II is what began the acceleration towards the place we know today. Until then Leeds had little ability to self-govern or to

prosperously grow trade. The skills and infrastructure laid down by the Cistertian monks at Kirkstall Abbey centuries before were built upon. The organised trading of woolen cloth occurred in a tightly controlled market on a bridge over the Aire - Leeds Bridge today. By the early 18th century, trade had outstripped what was possible on the bridge. Wakefield had just constructed a covered cloth hall and it seemed a good idea that Leeds should follow suit. First came the White Cloth Hall on Kirkgate, lost for decades but now beautifully restored by Rushbond plc. Then the second, built in Holbeck but only surviving 30 years before being replaced with the Third in 1775. A century later and the infamous North Eastern Railway viaduct would plough through Leeds, cutting the Third White Cloth hall literally in half. Finally a fourth was built but due to the decline in the cloth trade it was never fully used, replaced by the beautiful Hotel Metropole which incorporated the final cloth halls cupola into its roof. Around this same time Leeds’ formerly open-air market moved from Briggate to be the covered Central Market 79

still traded for a small portion of the week, the exchange had been flirting with other uses. The concourse saw everything from dog shows to ballroom dances and the basement had become a thriving nightclub with a notorious reputation. Even the seemingly unshakeable Kirkgate Market had been gutted by a huge fire in 1975, though reopened within a matter of days thanks to the sheer demand at the time.

Hall alongside Duncan Street. The Corn Exchange was completed in 1863 which together with the new markets and cloth halls, created a dense market area in the city centre. The NCP car park on New York Street? It used to be a large abattoir. Across the road where Eat Your Greens and Outlaws now live? A huge ice factory ensured the market had direct access to cooling in a world before modern refrigeration. A quick scan of an old ordnance survey map reveals a complex web - each building serving the next. From raw material, to processing, to final goods and sale. One of the best historical resources for the city are the old Kelly’s Directories of Leeds, street by street they list the residents and businesses of Leeds past. The 1920 directory shows a hive of activity on Kirkgate - a wardrobe maker, an optician, a chemist, a tripe dresser and horse slaughterer all living and working side by side. However Kirkgate itself began to become lost in the development going on around it. By the mid-20th century it was in massive decline. Leeds first street was in a woeful state of repair, forgotten and superseded. As depopulation and deindustrialization swept through the city in the 1960’s, Kirkgates once prime location began to be its undoing. As you headed down the street southeast, towards the railway viaduct cutting across it, towards the now quiet and unused waterfront, things became rather bleak. By the 1980’s the first white cloth hall was thought entirely lost and the neighbouring Corn Exchange faced an uncertain future and was in disrepair. Whilst corn was 80

The reclamation of the waterfront in this area for residential uses in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s started creating potential for Kirkgate’s recovery. The Calls’ rebirth as a leisure and entertainment area fuelled it further. In 1990 the Corn Exchange reopened, transformed into a speciality shopping centre focusing on independent local business and has mostly thrived ever since. This gradual development of the surrounding area coupled with Leeds City Council’s new planning statement is giving Kirkgate the chance of new life. Careful consideration has been taken to the historic importance of the street and the desperate need to preserve its heritage. Buildings like the Corn Exchange and the city’s several arcades are a great example of how well this can be done and indeed continues to be. The Connecting Leeds scheme undertaken by Leeds City Council has seen much of the city centre like the Headrow and Cookridge Street transform into new public realms with a focus on pedestrians and public transport over cars. This project has now reached the Corn Exchange which will not only benefit from a new and improved road layout around it but the addition of an outside pavilion space, addressing the long-standing issue of the lack of space outside such a visited building. The growth of independent business on Kirkgate and surrounding streets is a wonderful nod to their past. This was where the people of early Leeds first began to find the power to shape their own futures. Where through their skill and hard work, Leeds grew from humble village to powerhouse of the North. Upon that legacy, if we’re smart, we’ll heed the lessons hard earned and work together to create a greener and more stable city that works for all those who call it home.

Words: Shaun Page @warehouse606 Photos: 1-2. @warehouse606 3-4. @steviecampbelluk 5. @warehouse606

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The Rise of the Suburbs

As the world was locked inside and life felt like it was on pause, the suburbs and towns around Leeds and York still yearned to keep their communities together. The last two years have been unprecedented, and we’ve seen many people working from home, businesses close down, others reopening, and even some thriving through these strange months.

Many new businesses have emerged in areas and transformed them into an independent haven that is encouraging people to shop local. And this is in turn creating a change in shopping and eating habits thanks to the sustainable and ethical businesses making local their home, encouraging alternative lifestyles and inspiring those in the suburbs to think and act positively.

A pandemic may have temporarily taken over our lives, but in suburbs such as Horsforth in Leeds and Acomb in York, they are determined to come out of it stronger. By quickly discovering our new behaviours and adapting to changing demands, independent businesses and local communities have held up their neighbourhoods and shone throughout the uncertainty.

As daily routines have adjusted, our new lives allow us to appreciate the places closer to us and recognise the incredible changes in our local neighbourhoods. Who would’ve thought something positive could come out of a pandemic? Acomb was formerly a residential area for workers which now has a real community spirit thanks to regular events,

ACOMB neighbourhood activities and independent businesses keeping the people connected and together. Discover six of those great independent businesses here.

Bluebird Bakery

This independent award-winning bakery, Bluebird began as an idea at a kitchen table and has now expanded to Acomb, Malton, York city centre and Leeds Kirkgate Market. Their bakery, shop and cafe in Acomb is the perfect place if you’re looking for freshly baked bread, pastries and sweet treats like brownies, lemon muffins and tea cakes.

Laughing Llama Coffee & Bistro

This family friendly coffee and bistro in Acomb serves great food and drinks from Monday to Saturday where you can eat in or takeaway. So whether you’re just wanting to grab a quick, freshly roasted coffee or stop in for a delicious lunch, you can choose from a tasty selection of sandwiches and hot drinks. Laughing Llama is also the perfect place to bring your children as they have a designated children’s area filled with toys.

The Greengrocer of Acomb

On York road in Acomb, The Greengrocer is an independent business and deli serving their customers with the highest quality produce including everyone’s favourite cheeses, bread, jams, savoury pastries, cooked meats, as well as the traditional fruit and veg you would expect.

The Crooked Tap

The Crooked Tap opened in March 2019 and has since become a real community hub serving great beer. The idea of a micro-brewery turned into a reality and has become a favourite spot for many needs - whether that’s hanging out with friends, having a book club meeting, or wanting a new ‘work-from-home’ space, The Crooked Tap is the place to go.

JoJo’s Afro-Caribbean

This African goods store, also on York Road in Acomb, specialises in African food, produce and clothing. Tops and dresses in traditional materials and patterns are available to buy, as well as hair products and food for those wanting to taste the authentic flavours of Africa.

Ruby’s Coffee Shop

On Front Street in Acomb you’ll find Ruby’s Coffee House, an independent family-run business who are open seven days a week. You can enjoy your most important meal of the day at Ruby’s, with delicious options of a full English breakfast, avocado on toast or pancakes that come with different toppings such as biscoff or bacon and syrup. Or if you’re an avid coffee drinker, treat yourself to a good brew at Ruby’s, where you can choose from a selection of milks and syrups to add to your drink.

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delicious menu including classic bagels, sweet and savoury bakes and rich coffee from Third Wave Roasters. Try their menu favourites such as pastrami bagels, salt beef, salmon or hummus.

Zero Muda

Organic food shop, Zero Muda, is Horsforth’s first refill store that offers a wide range of organic dried food, vinegars, oils, wines, as well as beauty and household products. Their social mission is to contribute any profits into projects for the local community and strive to support local charities. You can bring your own bottles, containers or jars and the team will weigh them empty, fill and re-weigh to make the process easier for you.

Leevans Jewellers

HORSFORTH What once began as a small village with impressive properties like the Springwood Dyehouse and Horsforth Hall, has now become a vibrant, lively scene attracting people from suburbs all around the city. Here are six superb independent businesses in the area.

Scoffs Feel Good Food

Set in the heart of Horsforth is Scoffs, a plant-based vegetarian cafe and deli that is home to some epic flavours. This family-run business serves up a range of hearty, healthy dishes for breakfast and lunch, so there’s something for everyone to try. All food is created inhouse and the team aims to make plant-based food more accessible to everyone. Scoffs is a place where you can choose anything on the menu, knowing that none of their food contains any animal derivatives.

Slow Rise Bakery

Owners of Slow Rise Bakery opened their shop in Horsforth just one day before the first lockdown started in the UK, but nevertheless have become a staple business in the area. They’ve sourced the best ingredients, perfected their recipes and curated a

Leevans Jewellers is an independent, family-run business that has been established in Horsforth since 1981. If you’re looking for fine jewellery, whether that be pre-owned, antique or brand new, Leevans are there to make your experience easier and more memorable. They also offer bespoke in-house design services for those of you wanting to create your dream piece of jewellery.

Pooky’s Deli & Cafe

Independent cafe and deli Pooky’s can also be found in the heart of Horsforth on New Road Side. With a vision to make and serve a diverse range of high quality food and drink, Pooky’s make all their food fresh in-house using locally sourced ingredients. Other than operating as a delicious cafe, Pooky’s hosts cheese and wine nights as well as selling hampers, gifts and customised cheese boards.

Crooked Crown Barbershop

Crooked Crown Barbers, also on New Road Side, offers high quality gents hairdressing in a cool, relaxed environment. The team at Crooked Crown offer an extensive range of hair and beard services at a good price, and are stocked up with the best male grooming products. Photos: 1. @bluebirdbakeryyorkshire 2. @rubyscoffeehouseacomb 3. @laughingllamaacomb 4. @thecrookedtapacomb 5. @pookysdeli 6. @scoffsleeds 7. @zeromudaleeds 8. @slowrisebagels 9. @crookedcrownbarbershop 10. @leevansjewellers 87

YOUR GRAND EXPERIENCE A STAY FILLED WITH ADVENTURE

Relax in style this winter season and take advantage of a variety of experiences and activities in historic York. From cookery classes with a difference to stargazing experiences, private city tours, afternoon tea and relaxing spa treatments, let The Grand make your trip to York one to remember.

ESCAPE LIFE’S EVERYDAY STRESSES AND CREATE UNFORGETTABLE MEMORIES AT YORK’S FINEST HOTEL. THE GRAND, YORK | YO1 6GD | WWW.THEGRANDYORK.CO.UK | YOURSTAY@THEGRANDYORK.CO.UK 89

Yorkshire Tripping Holmfirth

It’s always nice to make a spontaneous adventure to somewhere new, even if it is only a short distance away from the comforts of your home. Exploring and discovering a different town can introduce you to a world of new places and picturesque views of our favourite county. Holmfirth is a great place to visit for all of this. This small town lies south of Huddersfield and sits in the heart of the beautiful Holme Valley. So even if you’re just five minutes down the road or on the opposite side of Yorkshire, clear out your calendar and plan a day trip to tour around the streets of Holmfirth. Not only will you find an endless list of quirky and amazing independent businesses dotted around the town, there are so many wonderful attractions and breathtaking scenic views to enjoy while you’re there. As well as being home to a wide range of eateries and bars, Holmfirth is also a major visitor attraction for longrunning sitcom, Last of the Summer Wine. So capture the local beauty, walk around the town and wander through the shops and restaurants, and you may just discover your new favourite area. 90

O’Briens Bottle Shop & Beer Cafe

O’Briens is a popular bottle shop in the heart of Holmfirth, selling some of the best British craft beers, wines and ciders. Stocking an array of Yorkshire breweries, you can find and try some delicious ales and IPAs from Northern Monk, Cloudwater Brewery, plus some from across the pond over in the US. Pop in and grab your favourites from their bottle shop fridges or put your feet up and relax in their beer cafe.

Bear. The Coffee Roasters

Bear Coffee Roasters are nestled away in Holme Valley, and since 2020 have been serving truly exceptional coffee. The team behind Bear are proud to ethically and responsibly source beans and roast them to perfection, or you can even grab yourself a bag and brew them from home.

Lick Ice Cream

Since originally opening in 2019, Lick has been serving up delicious and fresh dairy free ice cream. With a focus to use quality, dairy free ingredients to improve the taste, flavours and textures, they’re truly the experts at what they do. As well as mastering the traditional flavours of ice cream like Strawberry and Chocolate,

they’ve become experimental and have many other delicious flavours such as Chai Latte, Lemon Creme, Peach Melba and KitKat.

Bloc Cafe

Breakfast and brunch hotspot Bloc Cafe is an independent cafe in Holmfirth selling toast and coffee from Wednesdays to Sundays. As well as serving delicious breakfast and fresh coffee, they’re also the home of bakes from Home Sweet Holmfirth to satisfy all your sweet tooth cravings. It’s the perfect cosy spot in the winter months or the place to enjoy the sunshine in the spring and summer.

The Picturedrome

The Picturedrome in Holmfirth is known to be one of the North’s most intimate music venues, which showcases an array of bands and artists from all genres. As well as featuring music you can see film showings, theatrical performances and stand-up comedy. You can view their upcoming events online, so go book yourself in to see a tribute act, discover an up-and-coming band or dance the night away at an 80s disco night.

Lou and Joe’s

Devour at The Dyehouse

Mezze

In between the woodlands and the River Holme lies Devour, a restored mill and dyehouse that cooks up delicious Italian food. Their eatery offers a seasonal menu of carefully crafted Italian goodies, from antipasti to appetising pasta dishes. A combination of good food, great music and a friendly team, Devour is an impressive local favourite.

Lou and Joe’s is an independently owned burger restaurant and takeaway that likes to keep it local. All their ingredients are hand-picked from local suppliers and in their words, ‘display the finest produce God’s country can create’. And what’s even better, you can bring your dogs along with you and enjoy a lovely day out together.

Mezze in Holmfirth is an authentic, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine in an inviting and relaxing atmosphere. With a menu inspired by the tastes of Greece, Turkey, Italy, Cyprus and the Middle East, you can pick from an array of small plates and fine wines, whether you’re wanting to dine in or take away to enjoy at home.

LOCAL FAVOURITE Holmfirth Pet Centre

This pet supply store in Holmfirth is a family run business found in the centre of the town. Fully stocked with a range of food, toys, accessories and more, they’re known to stock leading pet brands of everything you could possibly need for your loyal companions. And to top it off, you can get your dog on the ‘Paw Trait Gallery’ wall. 93

Market Dates

And just like that Christmas has returned, another eventful 365 days has passed us by and once again it’s time to celebrate the festive season. Whether you’re a last minute shopper, a Christmas enthusiast, or just making the best of the cold winter months, there are so many events taking place across Leeds, York and Yorkshire for anyone and everyone to enjoy this year. And to say that Christmas celebrations are in order is an understatement after last year!

The Great Yorkshire Christmas Fair

There’s nothing better than strolling around a Christmas market, buying gifts for your loved ones and treating yourself to some delicious food, and maybe even a mulled wine or two. We’re here to help you discover the markets and fairs, winter illuminations and festivals, close to you or worth travelling for. There’s sure to be something for everyone to love, so it’s time to take out our hats, scarves and gloves and make the most of the festivities.

The hugely popular Christmas market is returning to York between November 18th and December 23rd, otherwise known as the St Nicholas Fair. Located all along Parliament Street and St Sampson’s Square, you’ll find alpine chalets all stocked with unique products and stocking fillers, as well as tasty treats and warm mulled wine from independent traders.

From the 2nd to the 5th of December, The Great Yorkshire Christmas Fair will take place at the Great Yorkshire Showground in Harrogate. Featuring an array of festive businesses, you can stock up on anything you need, including unique presents, stocking fillers, decorations and partywear for those who like to dress up for Christmas.

York Christmas Market

Malton Christmas Market

On the weekend of the 4th and 5th of December, 94

come together for Leeds’ biggest independent Winter Market. You can escape the high street and support many local businesses this Christmas and enjoy some seasonal food.

Easingwold Christmas Artisan Market

On December 11th at Easingwold market place will be their annual Christmas market, which you can expect to be filled with stalls specialising in arts, plants, clothes, jewellery, food and alcohol, the perfect place to pick up some last minute presents and something for yourself.

SOMETHING the Malton Christmas Market will return once again at Malton Marketplace. The Christmas version of their popular monthly market will be filled with 100 stalls of appetising street food, gift stalls and live music to really get into the festive spirit. There will even be Victorian themed fairground rides to keep the little ones entertained.

Knaresborough Christmas Market

Also on the first weekend of December is Knaresborough Christmas Market, held on the 4th and 5th in the Market Place. You can wander through the streets of the pretty town and discover a line-up of independent, speciality stalls selling everything from seasonal goods and food to festive and unique gifts. And what’s a day at the Christmas Market without popping in to a local pub to enjoy a leisurely drink or two?

FOR EVERYONE York Christmas Gin & Fizz Festival

Held on December 11th at Merchant Adventurers’ Hall is the York Christmas Gin & Fizz Festival, which brings together local distillers and other suppliers from around the UK, to sample some delicious tasting gin. You can even buy a bottle or two or enjoy some bubbles at the fizz bar, surrounded by live music and a perfect Christmas setting.

Christmas in Narnia

On the outskirts of York, Castle Howard is a vast and impressive visit all year round. At Christmas, this magical

TIME TO CELEBRATE Leeds Winter Market

Leeds Winter Market will return to the Royal Armouries on December 5th, where 100 independent artists, designers, food traders and many other businesses will 95

setting excels, when you step through the wardrobe and into an enchanting adventure. At ‘Christmas in Narnia’, from 13th November to 3rd January, see their lavish decorations and dramatic installations and enjoy indulgent winter treats, plus the potential to meet the man himself, Father Christmas.

Winter Illuminations

The Winter Illuminations will officially be back at Stockeld Park in Wetherby, watch the enchanted forest come to life every night from November 20th to January 4th. You can experience one of the country’s largest light displays with warming food and drink in the award-winning wonderland that is Stockeld Park.

Winter Illuminations Light & Lantern Festival

Back, bigger and better than ever, the Light & Lantern Festival will return to Yorkshire Wildlife Park between November 18th and January 9th. With four enchanted worlds to journey through and festive food and drink, there’s something for everyone, from under the sea, world of fantasy, animal adventure or fairytale kingdom.

THE SPIRIT OF CHRISTMAS Yorkshire’s Winter Wonderland

Reopening from November 19th to January 9th is York’s favourite festive event, Winter Wonderland. Located at York Designer Outlet, Winter Wonderland offers a magical experience with an outdoor ice rink, vintage funfair, The Chalet alpine cafe and Santa’s Grotto. You can skate at The Ice Factor, the largest outdoor ice rink in the North of England or cosy up in the alpine cafe for hot chocolate, hot dogs and hot wine.

Beverley Festival of Christmas

This hugely popular festival is set to return to the cobbled streets of Beverley on Sunday the 12th of December. Put on your winter coats and woolly hats 96

and join in the festivities in Beverley, you can wave at Santa and his reindeer and tuck into some comfort food. With over 100 stalls dotted around the streets, the kids can have a magical day out or a merry evening with friends.

A Vintage Christmas

To get you into the spirit for Christmas, why not take a trip to York Racecourse on December 4th to celebrate yuletide traditions of the 30s, 40s, 50s and 60s. Celebrating everything from clothes to music, you can do a spot of vintage shopping and wander around the nostalgic displays. Illustration: Kate Semple @katesemple

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