hellobali June 2012

IDR40,000 SGD8.00 RM18.00 THB180

june 2012 / vol 17 no 6 www.hellobalimagazine.com

chef wars 2012 the islandÕ s greatest chefs battle it out climbing gunung agung / five healthy-food restaurants / lake toba

K U A L A L U M P U R B A L I D U B A I I B I Z A K U WA I T LO N D O N LO S A N G E L E S M I L A N N E W YO R K PA R I S / FA R A H K H A N .C O M

GO N A KED h u’u B A R & GR I LL ONE OF LIFE’S FINEST PLEASURES...

At hu’u bar & grill, we employ simple cooking techniques, the finest cuts of imported meats and the freshest local ingredients in our cuisine.

An au naturel approach. hu’u bar in bali

ce l e b r at in g ou r 10t h annive rs ary in 201 2 re se rv at ion s +62 361 473 65 76, huub ali.com, j a la n peti tenget, semi nya k, ba li 80 3 6 1

@huubali

june 2012 // vol 17 no 6 www.hellobalimagazine.com

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spirit.ual journey

b svenaz at cocoon

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style

it’s in the bag

Bask in Sabbatha’s beautiful bags

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essence

rob peetoom hair spa h’spa spa dEals

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room raider

bali island villas 12 16 88 96 107

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black book

i spy with my little eye

Random finds on the island

island life hellobali chef wars 2012 11 of Bali’s finest chefs battle for the coveted title

50 to dine for green foods for your body and soul Five healthy joints that serve up tasty meals

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fast forward rewind map of bali navigator shelf assessment

ayana resort and spa lodgiNg dEals

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offshore

danau toba

A meet and greet with one of the world’s largest lakes

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expressions

once upon a time in bali

500-word postcard

gunung buffet

Jesse Parrotti sums up his memories of Bali on canvas

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care with class

mash, bash, pulverise!

in focus

counter culture

Craig Beveridge introduces the new BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua

On Balinese traditional mortar and pestle

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gunung agung

the backyard revolution

onshore

community

Ascending the island’s holiest mountain

Cultivate your piece of land through BUF movement

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grazing June’s must-visit restaurants

afterhours

a dose of aural healing

Food EVENts

Nahko Bear reads a poem and raves about his music

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friedrich boulay from sakala bali

a heart-to-heart talk with chef extraordinaire Chris Salans

kitchen talk

last but not least

editor’s letter

your letters Could you tell me how to be a fashion model for hellobali?

Brigit Aprilya

I

Hi Brigit, know I say this every year, but I kid you not, doing a food Currently we don’t feature fashion issue means gaining at least five kilograms. Unfortunately pages other than the Style section. for me, and our editorial team here in the hellobali office, But rest assured that we’ll be the food issue is one of the most popular issues of the year, coming up with stunning fashion photography with models and top and our Chef Wars contest is also the one that provides the most brands starting in later issues. That interaction with our readers. So there’s no way around it, and this said, we’ll contact you soon. means I have to accept having to tell people that my big gut is actually a fat suit that I’m wearing for a joke that is supposed to I’m planning to visit Bali from Canada soon. Where’s the white sandy beach last for ever. on the island?

This year we have 11 chefs hoping to be crowned Bali’s greatest tai trin chef of the year – which also means 11 times the temptation to keep putting food into my mouth while editing the tasting menus.

Hi Tai, The challenge this time came from last year’s winner, Mandif Bali has a lot of beaches and each is different. We’d suggest you go to the Membramo Warokka, who heads the kitchen at the superlative JuBukit area, the southern part, where Ma-Na in Banyan Tree Ungasan. Mandif asked the chefs to create a surfers flock. Beaches like Balangan, menu for the first-class passengers of a top airline and the results, I Padang Padang etc are beautiful with must admit, are outstanding. I think our readers will have a difficult varied textures of sand. time voting for their favourite chef – if they vote according to the tasting menus created here, of course. And I don’t know if Mandif took inspiration from the TV series “Pan Am”, but I certainly was imagining myself eating each dish while on board a transatlantic Pan Am flight.

Staying with food, we have also rounded up five superb restaurants around the island that serve healthy food and we also have two interviews with two excellent chefs – one of whom, Chris Salans, the chef owner of Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique, is about to open Mozaic Beach Club. And just in case you still want to read about food and its related issues, we have an excellent piece that discusses the cultural and historical significance of the Balinese mortar and pestle. Happy Reading!

– UNGGUL HERMANTO, group editor-In-chief

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contributors

Peter Stephenson Writer

Pascal Hierholz Illustrator Having had an experience as a book illustrator in Canada, Pascal, a former international creative director for air Canada now resides in Bali where he spends his days learning Bahasa Indonesia and drawing water colour impressions of the island’s facets of life. Check out his creations at pascalhierholz.com

a writer and artist with a longstanding interest in design and architecture, Peter is also a semireformed procrastinator with an extensive collection of vintage round tuits who typically spends more time appraising other people’s creative work than producing his own.

Educated as a medical doctor, andi Sucirta has been teaching himself photography since 2000. This award-winning photographer specialises in culture, travel and fine art photography.

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HEaD OF OPERaTIONS Patty abidin HEaD OF PRODUCTION agus muslim HEaD OF maRkETING Nining Widiyawati

chef wars 2012

asia loves anita, and the feeling is mutual. Her fascination with asia was further perpetuated with stories about its colourful cross section of people and culture which she reported on for a variety of magazines and newspapers throughout the region. She moved to Bali over two years ago.

maRkETING Trias agustiawati, Gatot Purnama promotion@indomultimedia.co.id

on the cover image getty images

aDvERTISING melanie Wahyu, Harry Sutanto, l.D. michael, Dewi Puspa Saraswati, Sri Neni Supriyanti sales@indomultimedia.co.id

GROUP EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Unggul Hermanto unggul@indomultimedia.co.id

PRODUCTION muhidin, Nuridin, Fahri, Sugeng Susanto

maNaGING EDITOR Chris andre Sutanto andre@indomultimedia.co.id

TRaFFIC Ratna aryani

EDITOR Runi Indrani runi@indomultimedia.co.id

Anita Duffin Writer

Andi Sucirta Photographer

PRESIDENT DIRECTOR ajie kusumantoro

SR. SalES & maRkETING maNaGER I Gst. ayu Oka Trisnawati ayu@indomultimedia.co.id DESIGN CONSUlTaNT Brown Fox Studio www.brownfoxstudio.com

CIRCUlaTION Pandu Guritno, Siti Turyati head office Globe Building 3rd floor Jl. Buncit Raya kav. 31-33, Jakarta 12740, Indonesia Tel: (62-21) 7918 7008 Fax: (62-21) 7918 7009 www.indomultimedia.co.id Printed by Indonesia Printer

CIRCUlaTION Ramlan Panggabean, aidil Fitri, Putu mustika SUPPORTING STaFF ketut adi Winarti, Ida ayu ade Pratiwi, Titin lapelani OFFICE maNaGER kholilah bali office Pertokoan kuta Center Blok B2 & B12, Jl. kartika Plaza, kuta-Bali, Indonesia Tel: (62-361) 919 0756, 919 0765, 756 354 Fax: (62-361) 756 354 E-mail: bali@indomultimedia.co.id

hellobali is published each month

by PT. media Wisata Dewata under license No. 710/Sk/mENPEN/ SIUPP/1998. Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the authors.

The publishers and printers accept no responsibility for the contents thereof.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior permission of the publishers. all trademark rights to the names and hellobali are reserved by PT. media Wisata Dewata.

text chris andre

fast forward beat it jun 9

Let your hair down and boogie to the breakbeat tunes of DJ duo Stanton Warriors. As part of their Asian tour, Dominic Butler and Mark Yardley will spin their edgy underground electro sounds at the Mexican joint Poco Loco in Legian. Formed in 2001 in Bristol, England, the pair picked up their quirky name from a hexagonal manhole cover manufacturer called Stanton Ironworks, which in a way suits their uncanny music genre. Sample the duo’s crafty rhythms as recorded in their best-selling album “Stanton Session Vol. 3”.

Poco Loco, Jl. Padma Utara Legian Bali, T: 0361 756 079, www.pocolocobali.com

the long weekend jun 1 - 3

Sashay your way into the month of June in a sassy staccato of chacha-cha. Pachanga: Long Weekend Bali Edition, aka Perth’s number one Latin and salsa night, heats up the dance floor at Cubana Bar & Grill from Friday to Sunday. Drink in the lively twirls and dashes as DJ Mateo plays Colombian Merengue and Reggaeton, while DJ Juanito dishes out favourite Cuban records: Timba, Bachata and Cubaton. A live percussionist band and sexy dancers are on hand to add some zing to the fun and boisterous evenings at the one-and-only Cuban haven in Bali.

Cubana Bar & Grill, Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 12B, Seminyak, T: 0361 473 7671, www.cubanabali.com 12

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lost and found jun 7 - jul 30 Lost and Found is an apt title for dancerturned-painter Marijke Lambregtse’s exhibition at Ganesha Gallery. Drawing from two distinct themes, the artworks on display elucidate her voice on awareness of environmental conditions and the crucial role of women in society.

Mundane images such as rubbish are reinterpreted as objects of visual art through her delicate brush strokes, and the canvas, which is often layered with graffiti-like scribbles, conveys her personal messages. Dutch-born Lambregtse now resides between the two worlds of Queensland and Bali.

Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resorts Bali at Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010

bend it like beckham jun 2 & 3 A sports call goes out to women, seniors and veterans of over 35 years of age.

Bali International Charity Soccer Sixes invites 16 teams of ten players in each competition to battle it out in the name of charity. All proceeds from the game will go to supporting the football programmes of Bali Sport Foundation (BSF) for Balinese children. Additionally, BSF has been promoting road safety to the participating children. Special tournaments for women take place on June 3, and no semi-pro or professional players are allowed to join any of the games.

www.balisports.com

f f o s k c i k n o s a e high s

SIR

y a j n noRma

fast forward

survival of the fittest JUN 24

Test your endurance, strength and stamina in the Biznet Bali International Triathlon 2012. Of the two races held, the Olympic Distance Course covers a 1.5km swim in the warm waters of Jimbaran Bay, a 40km bike ride along hilly paved roads, and a 10km run leading to a beach finish at the Four Seasons Resort Jimbaran. Alternatively, the Sprint Distance Course challenges your stamina in a set comprising a 500m swim, a 20km bike ride and a 5km run.

Also don’t miss out the post-race sunset cocktail gathering at AYANA Resort and Spa, where fun games and lucky draws await. www.balitriathlon.com

great minds think alike JUN 10

Non-profit organisation 1 Giant Mind invites everyone to join the ECS (Eyes Closed Science) experiment at the parking lot across Petitenget temple, Seminyak, from 2pm onwards. The event will have hundreds, possibly thousands, of participants joining forces for a silent meditation. The impact of this will be scientifically analysed to pinpoint the benefits of such an activity, assuming there are any. While ECS is believed by some to reduce stress and even generate better vigour, the hard facts haven’t been confirmed yet, hence the raison d’être of this event. The first ECS event in Bali took place in September last year at the same venue.

www.1giantmind.org

so you think you can dance JUN 11 - JUL 9

bali ball JUL 14

Jemme Jewellery is holding the second Bali Ball on July 14 during sunset at Woobar Rooftop champagne reception in the W Retreat & Spa Bali, Seminyak. Enjoy the five-course gourmet dinner, a spectacular firework display and a special performance by the Bali Kids orphans.

Attractive prizes and auction items also follow to raise funds for the orphanage. Extend the party fever into the next day, Sunday July 15, when The Black and Bling Sunset Party kicks off from 6pm till late. Proceeds from the Sunday event will also go to benefit the earmarked charities. www.thebaliball.com

www.baliartsfestival.com

in the arms of an angel JUN 16

Be a good angel this month and lend a helping hand to those in need. The annual charity I’m An Angel by Ku De Ta is celebrating its tenth anniversary, raising funds through live and silent auctions to empower the unfortunate

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A whole month of parades is turning Denpasar into a little Brazilian Rio de Janeiro. The Bali Arts Festival opens up with dazzling traditional dances performed by the island’s maestros and virtuosos.

On hand to officially cut the ribbon is President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono himself. From royal classic moves to temporary sways, the festival brings out the essential nature of flexible bodied Balinese, who know best how to translate emotions into movements. The whole agenda bearing the time and locations can be viewed on the following website.

rural communities on the island. The special guests this year include the uber-creative chef Ryan Clift from The Tipping Club and Janice Wong of 2AM Dessert Bar – both from Singapore. Tijuana Cartel is also jumping on the bandwagon to kick the party vibe up a notch. Find out more about the I’m An Angel charity foundation at imanangel.org.

KU DE TA, Jl. Kayu Aya no. 9, Seminyak, T: 0361 736 969, www.kudeta.net

Now Open 9AM - 9PM

rewind

text runi indrani

take it to a tee

New Kuta Golf together with ROLE Foundation hosted the Swing For Charity Bali World Cup 2012. Going beyond the usual tee time, the event aimed to raise much-needed funds for charities that deal directly with the local communities of Southern Bali.

The concerns of the charities include literacy and job skills, education, social business development programs, sustainable farming and much more.

New Kuta Golf, Jl. Raya Uluwatu, Kawasan Pecatu Indah Resort, T: 0361 848 1333, www.newkutagolf.com

long live the queen

the great outdoors

the dream house Sea Sentosa, a sister property of the award-winning Sentosa Private Villas and Spa, has managed to gain a victory of its own. Scheduled to launch in January 2013, Sea Sentosa has been honoured with three separate awards by the International Property Award, Asia Pacific 2012/2013. Under its belt are Best Apartment Indonesia award, Best Development Multiple Units Indonesia award and Best Apartment Asia Pacific award. This fully integrated resort has also been invited to compete in London for Best Apartment in the World at the World’s Best Property Awards.

Sea Sentosa, T: 0361 888 1234, www.seasentosa.com 16

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When it comes to wet adventures in Bali, it’s not all about surfing the waves. On April 21, Sobek, the famed adventure tour company, invited the media to experience the thrills and spills of rafting on the Ayung River. The participants got to surge through lush scenery and dive over waterfalls.

The lucky ones even got a rare sighting of kingfisher birds.

The Saturday morning hoopla was not just about fun though. It was also about giving back to the environment.

Carrying the go-green theme, each participant was given a small tree to bring on the trip and to plant later on.

Sobek, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai no. 100X, Simpang Siur, Kuta, T: 0361 768 050, www.balisobek.com

Bali is soon to have Queen Villa & Spa in leafy Ubud. In the meantime, take a trip away from the island and rejoice in the tropical paradise of Queen Villa & Spa Gili Trawangan.

Being the largest accommodation in the Gili Islands, the first Queen Villa establishment also happens to be the only fresh water resort – no more rinsing with salt water!

Its location at the western rim promises quiet evenings, which are perfect for honeymooners.

For diving itineraries around the islands or further afield, hit up the Bee Diving headquarters located right beside the reception area.

Queen Villa & Spa, Gili Trawangan Island, North Lombok, T: 0370 633 686, www.villaqueen.co.id

haute couturier Sakala’s fine-dining team welcomes Janick Couturier as the new F&B manager. Canadian-born Janick has spent more than ten years in the industry, working for some of the finest establishments overseas such as Raffles, Jumeirah and Ritz-Carlton where he also garnered multiple awards. Paired with the executive chef Frédéric Boulay, Janick promises to deliver a wonderful dining experience at Sakala Restaurant & Bar.

Sakala Bali, Jl. Pratama no. 88, Tanjung Benoa, T: 0361 774 499, www.sakalabali.com

BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua provide the following services and facilities 24 Hour Accident & Emergency Centre – Equipped with the latest emergency equipment to deal with any and every emergency

Pathology Department – 24 hour in-house laboratory

Doctor’s Consultation Rooms – General Practitioner and Specialists

Operating Theatres – 3 operating theatres for emergency and elective surgeries

Dialysis Centre – The latest technology in Hemodialysis with specially trained doctors and nurses

Pharmacy – 24 hour pharmacy also open to the public for prescription & over-the-counter medication

Intensive Care Unit – 2 ICU Beds & 1 ICU Isolation room, 3 Pre-Operative Beds, 5 Post-Operative Beds, 3 Recovery Beds and 3 Recovery Rooms

Ambulances – A fleet of ambulances ready 24 hour a day for emergency calls on the island of Bali

Dental Centre – Equipped with the latest dental care technology Hospital Beds – 42 ward rooms including 1 isolation ward room Radiology Department – CT-Scan, Digital X-Ray, 3 Dimensional Ultrasound and MRI

CosMedic Centre – Surgical procedures include: Blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery), Rhinoplasty (nose surgery), Face lift, Neck lift, Breast augmentations, Abdominoplasty and Liposuction.

Non surgical procedures include: Botox, Dermal Fillers, Fruit Acid Peel, Aptos Stitch, Human Growth Hormone (hGH)

rewind

a run for the money

BII (Bank International Indonesia) held a two-day “giving” fest last April. As part of the BIIMaybank Bali Marathon 2012, the bank visited and gave donations to students from SDN 1, 2, 3 in Desa Pakraman Guwang, Gianyar on April 21. By providing aid for sports and school library book collections, BII aimed to help the less fortunate gain a better future. The event continued the next day with the actual marathon. Lilan Kennedy Kiproo from Kenya won first place after completing the 42km route along Gianyar, and received a US$ 20,000 cash prize.

Bali Marathon, T: 021 2922 8888, www.balimarathon.com

wine 101 On April 30 the students of Nusa Dua Vocational High School (SMK Nusa Dua) got the opportunity to improve their skills in hospitality services. St Regis Bali Resort sent its chief Sommelier Harald Wiesmann to share his wine expertise with the eager students. A seven-time winner of Wine Spectator Awards, Wiesmann aims to develop the students’ wine skills from an early age and improve Indonesia’s hospitality industry altogether.

The entertaining class taught the students everything they needed to know about serving wine.

St Regis Bali, BTDC lot S6, T: 0361 847 8111, www.stregis.com

a nix fix Nixon has recently opened its first retail store in Legian. Known for its modern and edgy watches and accessories, Nixon hosted a hip opening party on April 17. With finger foods, rejuvenating refreshments, a fashionable guest list and trendy music from DJ Jasmine Haskell, it was one cool afternoon despite the heat outside. Nixon’s Legian store will provide not only watches, accessories and audio products, but also its own on-site service centre.

vintage-vaganza On April 20 around 130 guests attended an exclusive wine dinner at SOS Supper Club as part of the Barriere Freres South East Asia Tour 2012. Guests got to enjoy Louis Roederer Champagne and free-flowing Grand Cru wines from 16 chateaux on the rooftop dining deck.

The vintage collection was introduced by the Bordeaux winery owners themselves. Even better was that lucky guests got to bring home one bottle of Louis Roederer Champagne and two bottles of Grand Cru Wine.

Nixon, Jl. Legian no. 135, Kuta, www.nixon.com

www.barriere-freres.com

splash bash Dubbed one of the top ten family resorts in Asia for five consecutive years, the Bali Dynasty Resort presents the new Kids Water Fun Zone. Located in the refurbished Kids Pool Area with its 56-metre waterslide and the Kupu Kupu Kids Club, the Kids Water Fun Zone is awesomely equipped with a tipping bucket, two waterslides, water curtains, water cannons, tipping cones, bubbler jets and much more, all designed to give the kids the best holiday of the season.

Bali Dynasty Resort, Jl. Kartika, Kuta, T: 0361 752 403, www.balidynasty.com

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ADVERTORIAL

Jogja nostalgia with Air Asia

Forget about the unnecessary transits and take a quicker route to the city of the Sultans

Bali and Yogyakarta are two of the most visited holiday destinations.

So it is kind of a bummer when you can’t do the two cities back-toback and have to transit all the way to Jakarta first. Fret not, though, because AirAsia is here to rescue the day. Starting on June 8, the reliable airline provides the Denpasar-Yogyakarta route for you, travellers.

With the new route, you can tackle more interesting holiday destinations under your belt.

Imagine visiting Pura Besakih in Karangasem, Bali, today and the Prambanan temple in Yogyakarta tomorrow. Enjoy the paddy field view in Ubud this afternoon and the one in Bantul, Yogyakarta the next afternoon.

For ages, Yogyakarta has enticed people from all around Indonesia and the world to visit. The city combines ancient legacy of the age-old royal family that lasts up to this second with the modern artistic ambience of the creative youth

scene. The friendly people, the laid-back atmosphere and the picturesque buildings are enough to make you feel at home.

Be in awe with the sight of the majestic Borobudur temple, but don’t stop there.

There are many historical temples to visit including the Istana Ratu Boko, Mendut temple, Pawon temple and many more.

You definitely don’t want to miss the beauty and mystique of Keraton, or the Sultan’s palace.

And be sure to check out the architecture of old buildings back from the days of Dutch colonization. Take a stroll along the Malioboro road and bask in the quintessential Yogyakarta vibe.

Choose from the endless selection of batik, indulge your palate with the authentic gudeg, and take an afternoon ride on a becak.

Now you will be able to experience all of those with AirAsia’s direct flight from Bali to Yogyakarta. You can also fly from Bali to other great destinations.

Double the pleasures of lounging on beautiful beaches with 4x weekly flights to Phuket. Or have shopping spree trips with 2x daily flights to Bandung or 4x daily flights to Singapore. AirAsia doesn’t stop there to make your life much easier.

Enjoy the web or mobile check-in facility and free yourself from all the airport hassle.

www.airasia.com june 2012

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black book

i spy with my little eye an eclectic hodgepodge of our editors’ random finds on the island

01

a walk to remember

Sometimes there’s no better antidote to boredom than a saunter on a beach at sunset… or so we thought until we stepped along the newly opened Beachwalk Kuta (www. beachwalkbali.com) beside HARRIS Resort Kuta Beach. Offering flamboyant fashion items, tantalising burgers, fusion coffees and much more, we could think of nothing better than

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swishing through the chic outlets from Pull & Bear to GC watches to the upcoming XXI cinema on our sand-covered bare feet! Reward yourself with a break from the day’s surfing and chomp the mouth-watering Johnny Rockets all-American hamburgers. Equally relishing is Kitchenette’s tasty Swedish Meatballs. Hands down, a little bit of shopping does make us slightly pumped after a relaxing walk on the sand during breezy late afternoons.

black book

SWOON Lake

03

On our way home from north Bali, we swooned over the breathtaking panorama of twin lakes from the hilltop village of Gobleg in Banjar, Buleleng. On the left side Buyan Lake fringes the cool green Bedugul sprawl where a lively market flourishes with an abundance of natural bounty. A misty mountain silhouette looms in the background, but its visual magic is palpable and no less bewitching to the eye. Serene and peacefully inviting, Tamblingan Lake on the opposite side is cosseted by dense hill forests. As the foggy afternoon comes, the sun’s rays breach the fleeting clouds, leaving traces of golden shimmers on the blue water surface. All the hours spent on the long winding roads to north Bali and back seemed worth the view, we must say.

break the ice

02

Whet your whistle with Bali’s own vodka.

Produced by Astidama Distrillery, the high-quality and yet affordable Iceland Vodka is an artisan’s spirit made using selected grains from the region. After being fermented, the ingredients are distilled three times to obtain smooth, clean and lasting cool sensation. Drink it pure or concoct it with a luscious cocktail recipe, Iceland Vodka will chill your senses tastefully.

break the ice

04

When you feel like getting away from the overcrowded streets and heading to a cosy niche, Café Kahvila (Jl. Uluwatu 59, Kedongan, Kuta, T: 0821 4586 1838) is the ultimate esoteric escape. Although just a small sandwich shop, Kahvila is definitely not small in quality. The place offers five varieties of gourmet sandwiches, including the finger-licking Pulled Pork with homemade BBQ sauce and Sauerkraut. For those who have a soft spot for sweet treats, the selections of pies and ice creams are to die for. The most darling detail of Kahvila is that all the delicacies are homemade. If the ingredients are available, you can even order a custom-made ice cream to go. Open from 10.30am to 7pm every day except Mondays, the place is perfect for those lazy Sunday afternoons with your dearest buddies.

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black book

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500-word postcard

gunung buffet The wriTer marvels aT gunung baTur

load volcanic sand and rock to cart to building sites around the island.

On the other side of the peak hidden from view, whole hamlets are devoted to the extraction and freight of these materials. This, people in other less volcanically active parts of the island like to say, is a fringe benefit of living with the occasional threat of calamity.

From Kintamani and nearby Penelokan (home of an under-

visited volcano museum) it’s obvious that large tracts of land within the ancient caldera are extraordinarily fertile. The altitude and climate are perfect for growing a wide range of fruit and vegetables more usually associated with temperate zones. But the other side behind the peak is strewn with boulders black and jagged, sharp enough to tear the flesh of anyone who brushes past, a spectacular,

mostly barren moonscape.

Maps of Batur indicate a road through this terrain. But be warned, this is no road. It is a cruel, suspension breaking track, choked in billows of dust thrown up by hurtling, loaded trucks. Between the steady rise and fall and the bone jarring corrugations you might seriously start to regret the third and fourth helpings back at the buffet.• PETER STEPHENSON

illustration pascal hierholz

gung may be the navel, but for me, the centre of Bali and the point at which it is most obviously connected with the forces of nature that belched it up, is Gunung Batur, its enormous outer crater containing another world that feels closer to the Earth’s core than anywhere reached by Verne’s Arne Saknussem. But although it’s a long way down, the overwhelming impression while descending into its maw, the lake shimmering in flooding rays of sunlight below, is less science fiction hell and more Shangri-La. Having said that, the funeral rites of the Trunyan Bali Aga on the far shore of the lake close up against the steep walls of the outer caldera do promise scenes macabre to tourists who are at the same time frequently warned about the villagers’ reputation for the hard sell. An inkling of this begins with the touts and trinket sellers in Kintamani, more persevering and desperate than in most other parts of the island – with the exception perhaps of Tegalalang, the postcard place on the road to Batur from the south.

The sanctuary offered by restaurants perched precariously on the outer rim is certainly worth the price of the barely edible all you can eat buffets on offer, even without the breath-taking views from their balconies and terraces. Some days it’s hard to find a seat right on the edge, but when you’re in luck, leaning against the balustrade with a beer or es soda gembira in hand, and gazing across at the 700-metre conical peak rising in the middle of that vast bowl, is like flying.

Batur is one of Bali’s two active volcanoes and certainly its most accessible, the signs of activity clearly marked by sweeping patches of grey scree devoid of life. Way down below, trucks in miniature

Taman Merah Spa.indd 1

1/12/12 11:14 AM

in focus

care with class the founder of bimc hospital craig beveridge talks about a life-changing incident and setting the cornerstone for medical tourism in indonesia

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image Amin SupAtrA

I

t all began with a white water rafting trip in Bali with a bunch of tourists. Prior to 1998, Craig Beveridge was a tour and travel businessman. Smitten with the island’s fascinating natural features, his Perth outdoor personality was attracted to Bali’s greener side. A boating buff and go-getter, Craig was always willing to go the extra mile to make sure things happen in the right way.

But the rafting didn’t go as planned.

A 26-year-old girl fell overboard and split her eye open, alarming the whole crew, especially Craig, who had set up the basic itinerary in the first place and booked all the thrills and spills. It didn’t help to discover that the raft’s first aid kit was full of water and grains of sand.

So they hurried to the nearest medical centre. It was run by a small number of personnel and did not look promising, nor for that matter professionally safe. The injured girl, who was in great pain, fearfully asked the others, including Craig, “Is it clean? Is the needle sterile? Am I going to be okay?”

Fast forward to May 1 2012. Craig is busy putting the finishing touches to his new “baby”, BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua – the first international-standard hospital in Bali ready to cater to medical tourism.

“It’s been a niche in my life that I’d never envisaged before,” answers Craig when asked how his journey in the medical industry has been so far. “That one accident has led to where I am today.”

It was the point when Craig dared himself to veer away from the lucrative tour and travel sector towards a less travelled medical business. “There should be somewhere where people can go to and feel safe, knowing that they [doctors and nurses] are doing things the right way,” he recalls of the idea that found form in a small clinic manned by ten personnel back in 1998.

With BIMC Hospital Kuta having operated as a fully-licensed hospital since 2007, the newly opened BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua, set among lush palm trees before a sprawling golf course, is Craig’s second medical facility in Bali. The open house on May 5 saw the hospital’s “five centres of excellence” up and running for treatment, with the exception of the dental specialist

centre, which should be ready by mid-June.

The rest, which are made up of the 24-hour Accident and Emergency centre, the 24hour Medical centre, and the Dialysis and CosMedic centres, are equipped with stateof-the-art technology and managed by highly qualified medical professionals hailing from around the globe.

Intensive collaboration with medical consultants in Australia as well as doctors at UCLA (University of California, Los Angeles) has enabled all workers at the hospital to keep up with the latest news in the medical care field. “We seek internationally qualified experts to give training, so that we can maintain the international standard that, to be frank, is quite an issue in Indonesia,” enthuses Craig.

The Dialysis and CosMedic centres epitomise this since these premium facilities can be reckoned as firsts in Bali. “When I decided that’s what I was going to do [set up the centres], I visited a dialysis centre in Australia to learn as much as I could about how everything worked,” he says. “The same goes for the operating theatres at BIMC Hospital, which are probably the only international-standard operating theatres in Bali, if not Indonesia.”

One personal goal that Craig is trying to achieve through BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua is the creation of medical tourism in Indonesia.

The Dialysis centre, for one, can easily be slotted into the itinerary of a kidney-troubled patient who’s planning a holiday on the sunkissed island of Bali. The CosMedic centre furthermore may serve as a retreat for those thinking of going under the knife for a little nip and tuck.

“The unique part of our CosMedic centre is its discreet access. It’s totally separate from the other medical units. The entrance is at the back, meaning you won’t have to pass a row of patients who might be inquisitive about what kind of treatment you’re undergoing.” He finishes off the sentence with a smile while showing off the cosy ward – replete with an LCD, DVD player, internet, and a splendid view of the verdant golf course. “It’s sun, sea and surgery at an international standard. Not as expensive as in Australia, but of the same quality. Plus you get fine-dining joints and all the other luxuries at your fingertips. It’s Nusa Dua after all,” he concludes. • CHRIS ANDRE june 2012

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hellobali chef wars 2012

( ) Can you hear the noise from the kitChens preparing for a battle? yes, it’s that time of the year again. so without further ado, let the food fight CommenCe!

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island life the dishes to be created Amuse bouche First impressions count.

Served hot or warm, garnish must remain crisp and fresh.

Prep & serving time: 5 minutes.

Create a choice of two appetisers Inspired by local culture, these must be healthy and showcase Balinese flavours, with a focus on locally sourced ingredients and organic produce.

Soup is not an option.

Prep & serving time: 12 minutes.

Create a choice of two main courses Food for thought.

Prepare two dishes that take sustainable fishery and ethical practice into consideration. You cannot use any rare or endangered species.

Prep & serving time: 15 minutes.

Dessert Create the perfect ending. Apply the latest trends or a new cooking technique.

Prep & serving time: 5 minutes.

VOTE FOR YOUR FAVOURITE CHEF! This contest is also aimed at finding hellobali readers’ favourite chef in Bali, which we will announce in our August issue. To make sure your favourite chef wins, go to hellobalimagazine.com to vote. The online voting is open until June 30.

how we did it The 12 participating chefs were asked to create an imaginary menu.

This year the challenge was given by chef Mandif Membramo Warokka of Banyan Tree Ungasan, who was last year’s winner of our Chef Wars challenge. With the theme of Flying High with the High Fliers, the chefs were asked to prepare a menu for first-class passengers in a luxurious airline whose flight had already been delayed by four hours. Without compromising on taste, texture and presentation, dishes must be prepared appropriately for final reheating, finishing and re-plating. The chefs were also asked to remember that in this scenario, they had to deal with limited equipment, confined spaces, perishable ingredients, time constraints and only two flight attendants to assist with the service. Each ingredient and cooking technique could only be used once. Chefs must also put in consideration that out of ten VIP passengers, two were lactose intolerant and one was allergic to nuts. All dishes were to be served on small, fine, white porcelain plates. photography andi sucirta

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Allen Stefano CONRAD BALI

Most embarrassing moment It was in my early days as a cook Ð my second day doing the egg station. One Caucasian gentleman came and asked for an egg-white omelette. He was on a business meeting that morning for sure. I started to break the eggs and separate the whites and pour them immediately into the pan. Like when making a normal omelette, I first stirred the egg mix to avoid overcooking it, then shaped it like a crescent. But what happened was that it became like a torn cooked flat egg-white. Unfortunately this gentleman looked me in the eye and said, Ò You just donÕ t know how to make omelette, do you? Thank you for ruining my day!Ó Most important thing in my kitchen My set of knives! When they are sharp, they really help me. All my knives have been great companions to me doing battle in many a kitchen. ItÕ s like being at war with a selection of good weapons. Worst thing that might happen? Someone else sharpens your knives without your permission Ð the wrong way!

Last meal Great lontong sayur Medan at Warung Chef Kimmi at Taman Griya. ItÕ s compressed rice with light vegetable curry sauce, boiled egg, lots of deep fried shallot and red cassava crackers. A real humble comfort food and very authentic!

tasting menu Amuse bouche Pan seared scallop with sauce vierge and pea shoots. (Sear the scallop, and add sauce vierge which consists of tomato, black olive, white wine vinegar, olive oil, lemon juice, crushed coriander seeds and chopped coriander. Garnish with pea shoot salad.)

Appetiser 1 Tum ayam with spicy chilli and tomato sambal served with spiced cucumber, roasted coconut and fried shallot salad. (Steamed Balinese chicken terrine with chilli & tomato sauce, served with Balinese spiced cucumber salad, with roasted coconut a la urap sayur.)

Appetiser 2 Sambal be tongkol tuna with sambal matah, young fern-tip salad and chilli garlic dressing.

(All-time famous Balinese tuna salad with famous Balinese sambal matah consisting of lemon grass, shallot, chilli and salad oil, served with sautéed young fern-tip salad with chilli flakes and garlic confit dressing.) mAin course 1 Pan-seared grouper, sweet corn and soybean fricassee, exotic mushroom and shallot confit with lemon dressing. mAin course 2 Sambal udang. Sous-vide marinated river prawn with spiced tomato sauce with plecing kangkung sautéed local water spinach and taro mashed with crispy garlic chips. (River prawn marinated with Balinese spiced tomato sauce cooked sous vide at 60º C for 20 minutes, with sautéed local water spinach mixed with chilli, garlic, lime juice and shrimp paste served with mashed taro and deep-fried garlic chips.)

Dessert Kersen mille feuille with lime sabayon and orange vanilla sorbet. (Kersen ceri, or as they’re called in Bali, Singapore cherry – latin name Muntingia calabura – in layered phyllo pastry with lime sabayon served with orange vanilla sorbet made with liquid nitrogen.)

Chef’s note This dish reminds me of my childhood memory of picking this ripe local cherry after school.

The trees of this fruit, which can be found everywhere, are normally planted on the side of the street for shade.

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tasting menu

Agung Gede KAYUPUTI (ST REGIS BALI RESORT)

Amuse bouche Caviar sturia –prestige.

(Warm lemon oil-potato espuma, and petite sea grass.)

Appetiser 1 Quick seared deep-sea scallop.

(Cucumber Kintamani pomelo pulpy salad, and basa rujak sweet-sour tamarind coulis, kaffir lime leaf dust.)

Appetiser 2 Lukewarm medallion of bamboo lobster. (Young ferntip salad with grated coconut, and aromatic ginger flower basa kalas drizzle.)

mAin course 1 Fennel oil confit of Barramundi fillet. (Fricassee of sweet shrimps and white asparagus, and sea urchin emulsion.) mAin course 2 Pan-fried monkfish tail.

(Braised oxtail dumpling, salsify and cèpes mushrooms.)

Dessert Chocolate – Amedei.

(Amedei Chuao bar, Chocolate “9” coulis, white Tuscany chocolate sherbet, dried fruit and cocoa tuile, and liquored chocolate stick.)

Most embarrassing moment When the food was served without being tasted after being cooked at an incorrect temperature.

Most important thing in my kitchen A solid team. Without this, I couldnÕ t as a chef implement perfect artistic cuisine whose soul shines powerfully.

Food love Pot au feu, a French beef stew.

It is the quintessence of French Family cuisine. It is the most celebrated dish in France.

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DELIGHTFUL AND DELECTABLE DINING The Deli now extends to showcase a French Italian style bistro, featuring a menu infused with fresh ingredients and original classic flavours. From gourmet sandwiches, pates, oysters and a wide selection of cheese, the Deli now serves charcuterie, caviar, steak tartar, to name a few.

Dine in a casual yet upscale ambience with our exquisite variety of wines or simply enjoy take away sushi, sashimi and salads.

Not forgetting, the deli specialties of homemade chocolates, over 20 flavours of gelato and cakes for any occasion, created by our resident Chef Patissier.

Open from 08.00am to 10.00pm.

To experience the flavours of gourmand deli please call +62 361 8478111 or email to gourmanddeli.bali@stregis.com for reservation www.balibeyondgourmet.com

KAWASAN PARIWISATA NUSA DUA LOT S6, BALI, INDONESIA 80363

STREGISBALI.COM

+62 361 8478111

Š2011 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their respective logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

island life

tasting menu Amuse bouche Seared scallop with Sichuan cucumber and shiitake mushroom, and trout roe.

Appetiser 1 Balinese spiced prawns, sambal matah, light turmeric and garlic mayonnaise.

Appetiser 2 Rare-seared Tokusen wagyu with Sukabumi salad, tofu and bean sprout salad. mAin course 1 Line-caught grouper fillet with roasted coconut, bean and fern tip salad, and urap dressing. mAin course 2 Spanner crab ravioli, grilled slipper lobster, caramelised fennel puree, and preserved lemon oil.

Dessert Coconut dreaming (Coconut water wafer, coconut milk gel, coconut bacon, and coconut sorbet.)

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Phil Davenport KU DE TA

Most embarrassing moment The only embarrassing moment I have had – one really worth giving to you – was when I didn’t put a blender cap on properly while I was blending soup. So the warm and colourful liquid splashed everywhere, and all over me. Not only was it embarrassing, but it was also discomforting. I had to clean up all the mess, and the worst part was I only had one chef jacket, so I looked like a fool all day.

Most important thing in my kitchen The staff are 100 per cent the most important part of the kitchen. They are the backbone of any restaurant, and are the engine room as well. If you don’t have good, talented staff you have nothing. Great staff are also hard to find, but once you have the ideal team you will want them to be happy and to last forever.

Food love I really like klepon, the local pandan rice floured dessert, shaped like little balls with palm sugar centres and grated coconut.

Quib Rademaker CHEZ GADO GADO

Most embarrassing moment Once I was working as a commis chef at a very high-end restaurant. My CDP was leaving early and explained to me about the cheese amuse. Unfortunately my version looked like pigeon shit, as the chef commented. He was furious and sent me to the basement to carry out vacuum packing.

Most important thing in my kitchen Take a look around at all the warung and kaki lima. The only thing they all have is fire. In a kitchen we cook. Without fire we can’t cook. So the stove is the most important part.

Kitchen fetish Rib eye. I love to see that 7kg rib eye coming in. Cleaning it and putting it on the grill makes my mouth water. Furthermore I love to make terrines and pâtés.

Amuse bouche Tuna tartar with pickled cucumber, Thai yoghurt and Avruga caviar.

(Cucumber is diced in small brunoise and then pickled à la minute like atjar.

The yoghurt is strained and mixed with kaffir lime and coriander. The yoghurt is optional for the lactose intolerants.)

Appetiser 1 Clove and lemongrass-cured mackerel with belimbing and tomato vinaigrette, and kemangi oil.

(Curing fish is actually the process of extracting most of the water inside the fish by covering it with sugar and salt. This way the fish doesn’t spoil easily and it allows us to add flavour.)

Appetiser 2 Shrimp ceviche with rujak.

(Rujak is a traditional Balinese fruit dish. Mango, apple and young papaya are mixed with palm sugar, chilli and tamarind to create a sweet, sour and spicy dish). mAin course 1 Poached tilapia fillet with spinach puree, potato fondant and morel mushrooms. Tilapia is almost unknown in the Indonesian restaurant scene even though the country is one of the biggest producers of this fish worldwide. This fresh water fish is easy to grow and has a nice firm texture, so perfect for poaching. mAin course 2 Braised Wagyu beef cheek rendang with sweet and sour turnips and basmati rice.

Dessert Microwaved pandan sponge with ginger and stracciatella ice cream.

You can make a cake à la minute in the microwave in less than 5 minutes.

In case of lactose intolerants I use vegetable oil instead of butter, and soymilk instead of normal milk for the sponge and ice cream.

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Amuse bouche 1 Pan-seared scallop.(Marinated scallop with s/p, lemon juice, parsley. Pan-seared. Blend bell pepper for puree. Sliced asparagus and seasoning s/p and oil. Mixed garnish with chives tempura and alfalfa).

Amuse bouche 2 Salmon tartar with crème fraiche wrap in cucumber.(Cut the salmon into equal sized pieces. Mix the salmon with crème fraiche, lime juice, spring onion and taste with s /p. Wrap in cucumber with ingredients.

Place salmon tartar on a round plate with tobiko and garnish with edible flowers.)

Appetiser 1 Beef Carpaccio.(Marinated beef with s/p, mustard, paprika. Panseared. Blend basil, parmesan, olive oil and s/p for pesto.

Reduce red wine, demi-glace, herbs and shallot for sauce.

Decorate plate with balsamic and pesto. Slice beef and when ready for plating garnish with edible flowers.)

Appetiser 2 Pan-seared tuna loin, with orange and strawberry dressing.

(Rub tuna loin with black pepper crust and add a little salt. Heat the black pan, pour in extra virgin olive oil, and cook tuna loin until medium rare only the outside should become brown. Remove tuna loin from the pan, let it turn cold, then wrap and put in the chiller for a few minutes. Slice thinly.)

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mAin course 1 Lobster tail on mushroom Carpaccio. (Boil shelled lobster.

Marinate mushroom with basil, s/p, and oil and roast. Mash carrots and add s/p. Mash edamame, adding spinach, potato, and s/p. Make béarnaise with egg, butter, tarragon vinegar, s/p and lemon juice.

When ready for plating garnish with alfalfa.) mAin course 2 Foie gras and sesame chicken with blueberry and honey mustard sauce. (Marinate chicken with s/p, mustard and coat with breadcrumbs and sesame seed, then pan-roast until medium-done with a soft texture. Pan-sear foie gras until the colour is good. Make sauce with blueberry, orange juice, s/p, and cinnamon stick. Reduce orange sauce, adding honey and mustard seed. Sauté vegetables with garlic, s/p and a little orange juice. When ready for plating put baby leaves on the chicken for garnish.)

Dessert 1 Trifle fruit romanoff. (Layer fruit in a glass. Top with cream and pour on caramel. Finalize with chocolate and cherry.)

Dessert 2 Corn fritter and black rice pudding. (Heat fresh milk in pan until boiling, put in corn polenta and mix slowly until it is cooked and soft. Soak black rice before cooking and add palm sugar.)

Mahadi BALI SAFARI & MARINE PARK

Most embarrassing moment Mine is when the general manager complained about the food I’d made. It felt so embarrassing. I couldn’t face my men and especially the guests themselves, because the guests are the real bosses.

Most important thing in my kitchen Hygiene and sanitation, because it creates a great working atmosphere. For example, when things are getting hectic and I want to use something, it’s easiest if everything’s ready, prepared and clean.

Last meal Nasi pecel with great peanut sauce.

THE DEFINITIVE IN SEAFOOD FRESH. LIVE. ABUNDANT.

an extensive and unrivalled premium coastal cuisine, with fresh and live seafood especially market-selected by expert chefs each morning.

Select from a live aquarium, underlining its fresh nature and indulge in an oyster and sushi bar while our Wine Spectator award winning Sommelier recommends a wine to complement your culinary journey.

Indoors or outdoors, the brilliant setting against the backdrop of the sparkling, azure waters of the Indian Ocean create a night to remember.

For reservations please call +62 361 771327 (Ext 5635) email arwana.bali@luxurycollection.com visit www.balibeyondgourmet.com

The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua, Dua, Bali Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot N 2, PO Box 77 Nusa Dua, Bali 80363 Indonesia Tel 62.361.771327 Fax 62.361.771326 thelagunabali.com

Š 2 011 S t a r w o o d H o t e l s & R e s o r t s Wo r l d w i d e , I n c .

island life

Gede Susila POTATOHEAD BEACH CLUB

Most embarrassing moment My pants got torn apart in front of my team.

Most important thing in my kitchen My team because without them nothing is possible.

Kitchen fetish Moving my spices once a week.

tasting menu Amuse bouche Deep fried golden prawn ball served with apple and pomegranate jelly.

Appetiser 1 Poached tiger prawns on young jackfruit and coconut salad, kaffir lime, sambal, and lemon oil.

Appetiser 2 Shredded organic chicken mixed with lemongrass and ginger flower, fried shallots, and vegetable oil. mAin course 1 Pan-seared white snapper fillet, black olive, capers, pomelo and orange sauce served with bamboo rice. mAin course 2 Oven-baked marinated salmon, roasted fennel, sundried tomato basil, pernod and mandarin sauce.

Dessert Caramelised fermented cassava, roasted sesame seeds, and mangosteen compote.

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Amuse bouche Warm egg and foie gras royal topped with chicken jus and white truffle shavings.

Appetiser 1 Lobster Carpaccio with pickled ginger flower and oven-dried tangerine, coconut powder and fried kemangi leaves.

Appetiser 2 Lemongrass and tamarindmarinated organic quail breast with leg confit, slow-roasted pineapple with crystallised chilli and cassava root crisps.

Jusman So DAVA (AYANA RESORT AND SPA )

Most embarrassing moment I was at the back of an open kitchen when I was an apprentice chef, blending green peas to make green pea soup. I turned on the blender but didn’t hold the lid down properly, so a green mess went all over the kitchen and into the dining area - just as a beautiful woman walked by to her table.

Most important thing in my kitchen The chefs. It doesn’t matter what equipment you have or don’t

have, since if you don’t have chefs you have no food. Just look at a warung and how they produce food with very little equipment in their kitchen; the most important thing is the cook.

Kitchen fetish This question threw me at first because when I think of a fetish I’m thinking of something that’s unprintable. But when I Googled the definition, it’s actually something that has a magical power and protects its owner, which for me would be my knife. I have one main knife that I use for pretty much everything. I’ve had it since my days at Sage.

mAin course 1 Alder wood smoked ocean trout fillet poached in olive oil with caramelised baby fennel and navel orange compote, white bean gnocchi and dill mayonnaise. mAin course 2 Organic grass-fed Tasmanian lamb saddle with basil farci “en crèpinette” and kipfler potato sarladaises, and roasted porcini mushroom with red pepper and tomato relish.

Dessert Valrhona chocolate meringue with candied beetroot, sous-vide black mission figs macerated in port wine and Grand Marnier sabayon.

Note: All these recipes can be done without dairy and nut products.

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island life Appetiser 1 Sugarcane juice, lime and kemangi gelee.

Salad of Bedugul farmed prawns, green mango and mint escabeche. (Fresh sugarcane juice is one of my favourite drinks when I’m at the market. It is made of a refreshing gel with lime juice and kemangi, Balinese lemon-scented basil. Poaching and chilling the prawns then cutting the young mango and prawns into noodles makes this dish fun to eat. Lightly pickle them and season with fresh mint before topping the noodles on the gelee.)

William Collier EVO (SENTOSA PRIVATE VILLAS AND SPA)

Most embarrassing moment in my kitchen Switching my blender on without the lid while preparing hot vinaigrette just as the new hostess was walking past. That was the burn that lasted, it seemed, a lifetime. Unfortunately I couldn’t tolerate the pain and ran screaming to the ice machine.

Most important thing in my kitchen Definitely my pantry. If only one protein was delivered from the supplier I could still create 1,000 dishes with my pantry.

Food love Hotdogs and sauerkraut.

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Amuse bouche Slow-cooked duck egg 68 degrees “en cappuccino”.

Maple and cacao bubbles with candied red palm sugar bacon. (I love the creaminess of this egg cooked at 68°C, which can be done well in advance and cracked upon serving. The candied bacon is also slow-cooked and piled high with Balinese red sugar powder that seeps into the bacon and creates a beautiful lacquer crust. Just store with desiccant and it will forever be dry and crunchy. Using the espresso machine I foam soy milk to top the cracked egg, flavouring it with fresh maple and grated chocolate seeds.

Insert the candied bacon to use as a spoon.)

Appetiser 2 Ayam kampung “oysters” with coconut nectar, jackfruit and turmeric “sous vide”.

Coconut yogurt, cracked Balinese long pepper and chilli infused virgin coconut oil. (Chicken oysters are the small muscles on the back of the chicken. If you have never prepared a dish with only this part of the bird, you have not lived. Caramelise with sea salt, glaze with Balinese turmeric paste, and deglaze with fresh green coconut water (nectar) sliced shallots, chilli, and jackfruit and cook in advance sous vide at 72°C for two and a half hours and chill to stop from cooking. This can easily be warmed in a rice steamer and dressed with whipped fresh coconut yogurt; add a few cracks of Balinese pepper and drizzle Italian style with virgin coconut oil fused with dried red chilli.

Fresh hand-cut pepper leaf is also an amazing garnish for this dish.) mAin course 1 Barramundi steamed in white soy, lime leaves and young garlic shoots.Red and black rice pancakes.(There is nothing like these farmraised Barramundi. They really taste like they are from the wild. I like to wrap these in banana leaves seasoned

with white soy (shiro dashi) garlic, shallots, lime leaves and young garlic shoots, and steam them in the rice steamer. I serve them very simply with crepes I make from red rice powder, black rice powder, milk and eggs.

It’s kind of based on the traditional Peking duck and pancake idea, but way better and definitely healthier and more refreshing.) mAin course 2 Farmed Abalone “cutlets” with preserved lemon, black garlic and braised sweet potatoes. (When I was sailing the eastern part of Indonesia years ago I found these farmed abalone one morning off the coast of Sumbawa.

I traded magazines and cigarettes for them I think.

We simply popped them out of their shells and cleaned them up a bit, pounded them until they resembled a cutlet and cooked them slowly on a hotplate. We had toasted some seasoned breadcrumbs and added sea salt. That was all. To make it more luxurious I will puree some preserved lemon rinds with extra virgin olive oil and add dehydrated fermented black garlic chips to the breadcrumbs.

Steaming skinned and sliced sweet potatoes in clarified butter with crack pepper and red salt makes the perfect foil for the abalone cutlets.)

Dessert Flores vanilla, apple-rum sorbet.Bananas sous vide in mandarin sugar. (There is no better vanilla in the world for those who know.

Simply cooked with inverted sugar, sour granny smith apples and Gold Rum, pureed and frozen. The bananas are cooked slowly in mandarin flavoured sugar in sous vide at 65°C for 45 minutes. The bananas maintain their structure but are permeated by the sugar syrup. Garnish with thinly cut strips of dehydrated vanilla beans and applecandied mandarin powder.)

island life

Nick Phillip COCOON

Most embarrassing moment When I was a first-year apprentice coming towards the end of my contract, one of the senior chefs thought it would be funny to rub a handful of shrimp paste in my hair. WhatÕ s worse is that he got me from behind and tried to also rub it in my face. Unfortunately he managed to get it up my nose.

For the rest of the day I smelled like fermented prawns.

Most important thing in my kitchen By far it has to be the staff. Without a strong working kitchen team, you have nothing. ItÕ s definitely the most important aspect of any kitchen. The kitchen is the heart of the restaurant and needs to be fit and strong.

Working as a team has always resulted in great creativity with dishes, and amazing co-ordination with delivery.

Kitchen fetish Since moving to Bali, I would have to say IÕ ve developed an obsessive fetish for local ingredients.

Every day I discover new types of fruits, vegetables and spices that I simply didnÕ t have access to in Australia. I love trying to incorporate these discoveries into my everyday cooking

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Amuse bouche Crisp wonton skin, Laguna scallop ceviche, shaved fennelpomelo-laksa leaf and nahm jim dressing.

Appetiser 1 Grilled Kintamani quail.

(Bumbu Bali rub, young papaya salad, taro chips, cassava and jackfruit puree.)

Appetiser 2 Rajungan crab and corn rempeyek. (Chiffonade cabbage, kemangi and snake fruit salad, sambal gel, and lemongrass espuma.) mAin course 1 Pan-roasted white sea bass fillet.

(Olive and pine nut crust, chat potato-citrus-mint salad, coriander and candlenut pesto – contains nuts.) mAin course 2 Seared spiny lobster.

(Butternut squash risotto, mango slaw, coconut and kaffir lime emulsion.)

Dessert Chilled black rice pudding.

(Sous vide young starfruit, kalamansi lime sorbet, palm sugar bubbles, coconut twoways-dehydrated flesh and frozen cloud.)

tasting menu Amuse bouche Quick seared yellow fin tataki of ahi tuna.

(Soya lime vinaigrette, fresh salmon roe, and tossed watercress. Here we use shashimi-grade tuna, with a combination of soya, fresh lime and virgin olive oil for the vinaigrette. Put a little bit of salmon roe on top, and toss watercress in the vinaigrette.)

Oka Yadnya THE LAGUNA NUSA DUA

Most embarrassing moment I am very embarrassed if loyal customers order their usual dish or diet but I do not have it at the time, or when my cooking is not in accordance with the customers’ tastes. I usually go straight to see the guests and discuss what they like and finally they are happy.

Most important thing in my kitchen For me, the kitchen is a complete unity between the equipment and the cook personally. Each has to give mutual support to obtain satisfactory results. Can you imagine if you want to cook some great food, but the equipment (like stove, pan, etc) is not in good condition?

Kitchen fetish Using fresh ingredients.

Appetiser 1 Aromatic ginger spiced scallops.

(With a salad of banana blossom and authentic sambal matah and chilli kaffir lime dressing.

This is a simple dish, but very tasty. We choose medium-size scallops, and then season with salt, white pepper, and chopped ginger sautéed in hot olive oil. Cut small pieces of banana blossom and boil for a while, mixed with sambal matah. Toss together in a bowl and use under liner for the scallops, and don’t forget a juice kaffir lime makes a different taste.)

Appetiser 2 Curried chicken breast oven baked in banana leaf.

(Served with long bean and jackfruit salad. We use banana leaves to wrap up a chicken breast that has been cut and minced and marinated with Balinese curry then baked. Shred the long bean and jackfruit, steam for just three minutes, then mix with the remaining sauce in a bowl. Add shallot and garlic flakes, shrimp paste, grated coconut, salt and pepper.) mAin course 1 Butter poached spiny lobster tail.

(Glazed white asparagus, shaved summer truffle, and lemon beurre blanc. Lobster is the most popular food in the world though you just need simple cooking to process it. Take a fresh lobster

of about 400 grams, prepare a pot with a boiled mirepoix, a little butter, white wine, and fresh lemon juice. It needs five minutes to cook. Then glaze, and add white asparagus and shaved fresh black truffle.

Finish with lemon beurre.) mAin course 2 Crispy skin barramundi fillet.

(Sautéed new potatoes, braised Belgian endive, Avruga pearl, and shellfish butter sauce.

I think “Barramundi” is the best fish. Have you ever eaten it? It’s very soft and tender. To make the skin crispy, we need a pan with medium-hot oil. Put the fish skin-down into the pan, season it with salt and pepper and also lemon juice, then press it for a while until the skin is slightly brown. Add some butter to melt and pour over the fish for a minute, and place it under a salamander with skin on it, then add sautéed baby potatoes with salt and pepper, and olive oil.

For the braised endive, cut the endive into wedges, and heat oil over a medium heat; when hot add the endive and let it sweat for two minutes. Deglaze the pan with champagne, orange juice and chicken stock; stir until softened, add white pepper, sugar, bay leaves and lemon zest.

Let infuse for three minutes, and simmer with butter.

For shellfish butter sauce, it’s like making lemon beurre blanc, but it’s reduced with fish stock.)

Dessert Malibu liquor marinated fresh strawberries.

(Nata de coco jelly, low fat yogurt ice cream and strawberry tuile.

This is a simple dessert, but very fresh and nice in presentation.

We use a deep plate to serve it. First, cut the strawberries in wedges, combine together with nata de coco jelly, and put the low fat yogurt ice cream on top.)

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3

tasting menu Amuse bouche Grilled scallop on shell with avocado wasabi crispy sweet potato. (Grill the scallop for around two minutes until one-quarter cooked. Blend the avocado with wasabi, salt, white pepper and put on top of the hot scallop shell. Serve with crispy sweet potato as a garnish, add some fashion fruit caviar.

Ready to serve).

Appetiser 1 Balinese seaweed salad. (Blend the seaweed with steamed shredded chicken and Balinese spices. Serve with orange sauce bongkot dressing. Serve cold).

Appetiser 2 Warm Bedugul asparagus salad with Balinese turmeric lemon dressing. (Boil the Bedugul asparagus until three-quarters cooked and blend with two pieces of boiled shrimp. Serve with lemon sauce and Balinese turmeric and celery. Serve hot). mAin course 1 Grilled hair tail fish in salt ball. (Wrap the hair-tail fish in banana leaves and coat liberally using salt and egg white, and then put in the oven for ten minutes. The salt and egg white will stiffen like rock and won’t make the fish salty. Open the stiffened salt, remove the fish from the banana leaves, and serve with potato sauté, lemon honey sauce and thyme leaves). mAin course 2 Pan-seared red snapper with lemon butter flying fish caviar. (Pan-sear the red snapper using a black pan. Pour on lemon butter sauce. Oven-cook for 10 minutes, raise and add flying fish caviar. Serve with mashed potato and mix with sesame oil and dill leaves).

Dessert Warm Bedugul strawberry with praline ice cream.(Boil the strawberries with balsamic vinegar, red wine, basil, pink pepper and honey for three minutes. Serve with praline ice cream and place mint leaves on top).

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Budiyono THE ROYAL SANTRIAN

Most embarrassing moment I created a special menu a couple of years ago for our inhouse guests and they came again this year asking for the same dish. I confidently created the menu and served it to them. However, they told me that it wasn’t the same food I had cooked last year, and they showed me the picture, which happened to be of one of my spontaneous dishes. So, I had to try to remember again how I cooked the food.

Most important thing in my kitchen Let’s put aside cleanliness

and good preparation. Trust me, those go wihout saying in every kitchen. For me cooking is an art; it’s all about desire and passion. Cook with love – customers will adore it!

Food love I am not Balinese, but somehow I have fallen in love with Balinese food in the same way I love their culture. One of my favourites is lawar klungah.

I got the recipe from my old local pal and I just love it.

Klungah or young coconut is the basic ingredient and the reason why I love this food so much – beside the yummy taste of course - are the benefits of klungah itself. It can cure some diseases, which is good actually.

onshore

gunung agung G

unung Agung, the majestic and sacred mountain of Bali, rises ten thousand feet from sea level to dominate the island’s easterly views. Be it from the beach at Sanur or at sunset looking eastward from the beaches of Seminyak, it is there, deeply etched against the sky and looming over the alluring landscape.

Whether your intention is to conquer its great heights, pay tribute to the power of a stillactive volcano or visit the ancient and most holy temple of Besakih three thousand feet up on its south-western flank, you will find that the power of this holy mountain draws you into its

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majesty and mystery, even in your dreams.

The Balinese have long held their mountains in high regard, and Agung is the holiest of them all. Devout Balinese make annual pilgrimages to the temple, meaning that sometimes entry to the public is restricted or forbidden. So be aware when planning a trip and check with local guides hosts before you decide which day to visit.

Gunung Agung is an active volcano which last erupted in 1963, causing extensive damage and great loss of life. This prompted a wave of transmigration, propelling Bali into a new era as people had to seek other ways of living. Somewhat oddly they found

image ANDI SUCIRTA

an enchanting destination that’s not for the fainthearted, the island’s holiest mountain conceals more secrets than just sprawling vistas

dos

don’ts

Observe the rules.

When visiting any temple in Bali it is important that the proper dress code and behaviour are adhered to.

Take unwarranted amounts of cash with you to the temple.

Be careful. While the temple is a place of worship, it does unfortunately attract the opportunistic. Take care of personal possessions.

Refuse politely.

Touts can be annoying but if you are polite, they will generally leave you alone. Sadly a few touts like to amuse themselves by irritating visitors with an incessant sales pitch.

Pay attention to the weather conditions on the mountain.

Your guide will keep you informed, but you must be the one who decides if you want to climb.

Be realistic about your capabilities.

Although we know from experience that the southern climb can be undertaken after a good dinner, we advise avoiding alcohol the night of the climb as it can make you feel cold.

Rush. The temple is to be enjoyed slowly. Find the space in your mind to relax and escape into the history and sacred spaces.

Wear clothing that is suited to the beach. Avoid showing shoulders, upper arms and cleavage, bra straps and bare legs. A sarong, a sash or a scarf is useful to have handy.

Give money to the children who beseech you to be photographed.

Hesitate to ask for more information from your guides and encourage them to tell you stories. Some guides are just waiting for you to show an interest in their experiences.

Forget to bring batteries or your own torch when climbing at night.

It is always better to be overprepared than to find yourself with a dimming light in the darkness.

Take back with you what you bring to the mountain.

Return all plastic to your hotel or car and dispose of it where it can be recycled.

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onshore

There are wonderful routes that take visitors to the area of Gunung Agung. You can start from Ubud and drive east through rural scenes to the city of Amlapura, which you can also reach if coming from Amed. Alternatively there is a very good road leading from Sanur, past Ketewel and Padang Bai that turns inland at Manggis just before Candi Dasa.

continually draw the devotee to everhigher pinnacles, closer to the heavens.

While the tourists of today may not have the same purpose in mind, and some of those who appear to be devotees may just as easily whip out a painting or two of the geographical majesty to sell you, the architectural complexity still provides stimulating and thought-provoking inspirations on the slope of the mountain.

Besakih can be crowded and there are touts, especially in the car parking areas. But with care and consideration, it is possible to negotiate your way through the cacophony and chaos of the throngs to the quieter, elevated areas. Bearing in mind the original purpose of the temple, you may consider the intrusions as merely appropriate distractions on your way to a greater sense of peace, and enjoy the breathtaking view from the higher ground, with the pleasant breezes and the beautifully constructed buildings as you climb.

things to see

the mountain

the temple

The best approach for the casual climber, as opposed to the fanatical one, is from the east through the rice fields of Sidemen and the charmingly quirky village of Salak.

Its midnight market turns night into day as farmers and buyers mingle and trade in the cool of the early hours, preparing for the journeys that will bring the sellers by dawn to the grand market in Denpasar.

A guide is essential, and whether you want to trek by day or night will depend on your preferred arrival times at the summit and your climbing stamina. The ultimate climb starts at midnight and has you breathless and awed at the summit in time for the most spectacular sunrise high above the clouds. Torches and strong comfortable shoes are prerequisite, while the need for a light jacket and a scarf at night is likely.

But don’t weigh yourself down too much. A good guide will advise you on what to wear, even though he himself may be wearing only slip-on sandals and shorts. >

much was provided by the eruption itself in the way of construction materials that contributed to the building of hotels and guesthouses in the late 1960s.

Today though the area is restored, the lands are lush and fertile, the rice paddies emerald, and the driving routes through the area take you past some of the most picturesque vistas you can see. There are two distinct ways to approach a visit to the mountain. One is to visit the temple, the other to take the mountain climb. Yet both are equally rewarding.

getting there

The temple was built on the site of a sacred village, Hulundang Basukih, now known as Besakih Village. The name derives from the ancient Sanskrit word for saviour, although megalithic relics at the site indicate that the area was considered hallowed long before the eleventh century when the original temple of Besakih was built by Rsi Markandya. The complex contains a central temple, and twenty-one other “companion� temples that combine to create the largest temple complex in Bali.

It was designed so that the platforms and gateways

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staY Tirta Ayu Hotel & Restaurant Tirtagangga, The Water Palace, Karangasem, T: 0363 22503, www.hoteltirtagangga.com An hour away from Gunung Agung, the accommodation is attached to the historic water palace of Tirta Gangga, hence you’ll sample a taste of a Rajah’s lifestyle in the east of Bali.

Amankila Manggis,Karangasem, T: 0363 41333, www.amanresorts.com A secluded five-star resort flanked with a looming view of Lombok.

The location is one and a half hours off the Gunung Agung slopes.

< A good guide will also tell you stories of the mountain that will leave you wondering if he had given inspiration to JRR Tolkien. The mountain myths are wonderfully rich and when they are told with absolute conviction by the mountain guides, you may feel the journey is not just to another level of the world, but to another dimension within it.

The trek itself is not overly strenuous on the east face. There is a more challenging option to climb from the north, but do this only if you are of more than average fitness. Be sure to maintain hydration as the height of the climb can bring on altitude sickness in some climbers. The best guides come recommended through accommodation in Candi Dasa, and it is a good idea to have a room booked for the day of your descent in order to recover in the ocean air and enjoy the area of Candi Dasa.

things to do cycling The rice fields of Sidemen can be explored on mountain bikes that many hotels now rent along with a guide. For keen cyclists the back road from Ubud makes a thrilling afternoon ride.

bird watching The Alila Manggis has bird-watching activities for its guests that can include trips to Nusa Penida, the home of the Bali Starling, which is easily reached from the east coast.

diving Amok Bay and Padang Bai have both snorkelling and diving spots. Alternatively, Amed is barely an hour away from the centre of Candi Dasa.

• KATY ROBERTS

“A guide is essential, and whether you want to trek by day or night will depend on your preferred arrival times at the summit and your climbing stamina.”

Alila Manggis Desa Buitan, Manggis, Karangasem, T: 0363 41011, www.alilahotels.com Stylish and snuggled in the lush greenery, Alila Manggis is suitable for divers due to its short distance to the stunning Padang Bai harbour.

image ANDI SUCIRTA

eat Bali Asli (T: 0828 9703 0098, www.baliasli.com.au) in Amlapura invites guests to enjoy the exploration and understanding of Balinese food through their cooking classes, extensive local menus and lunch time events that make the visit to their traditional rice paddy setting indulgent and delicious.

Vincent’s (T: 0363 41368, www.vincentsbali.com) in Candi Dasa is something of an institution, providing wall space for an eclectic mix of modern art from local artists and a reliably high-standard menu of western and local cuisine.

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to dine for

g

f n o e o e ds r

if you think that eating green means a diet of leaves and stir-fries, think again. baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greenest restaurants show the way with innovative gourmet cuisine that is good for you, the environment and the whole community

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all images: glow, como shambhala estate

glow COMO Shambhala Estate, Banjar Begawan, Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Gianyar, T: 0361 978 888, www.cse.como.bz Meaning “sacred place of bliss”, this wellness retreat pays homage to the mythical Shambhala – the enlightened kingdom of ancient Tibetan legends. Perfection in the art of reclusive luxury makes it a popular haven for the rich and famous, but the experience goes beyond mere pampering, offering a 360-degree holistic occasion, which includes organic gourmet cuisine. The breezy tropical restaurant, Glow, offers nutritious food against panoramic views of the estate and surrounding forest, with the hum of cicadas providing the soundtrack. The guiding philosophy is to retain the nutritional integrity and “life force” of food, and the locally sourced cuisine includes innovative raw food dishes. Inspirational cooking classes teach the craft of preparing food for the soul. recommended

• Fresh salad of lightly seared prawns with watermelon, tomato and avocado.

• Wholesome raw pumpkin and

macadamia nut pizza topped with tomato, carrot, sprouts and flax seed.

• Strawberry, vanilla and young coconut tartlet. green credentials

• Organic, locally sourced ingredients swiftly delivered from the farm to the table.

• COMO’s worldwide commitment to sustainability.

zula Jl. Dhyana Pura (Camplung Tanduk) no. 5, Seminyak, T: 0361 736 645, www.downtoearthbali.com Zula translates as “hospitable home” and this bright, colourful café in Seminyak has plenty of the feel-good factor about it with a vegan, macrobiotic style menu, a cheery vibe, and organic whole foods that nurture the body and the soul. Macrobiotics is a philosophy, not a diet, and literally means the art of creating a big life. It promotes the use of vegetables, whole grains and beans, while eschewing refined sugars and flour, eggs and animal products. The café’s founder, Liat Solomon, is a trained nutritionist and vegetarian chef with a fervent belief in a natural lifestyle and

the regenerative power of healthy cuisine. This concept is amply reflected in the Mediterranean style menu and the shelves stacked with a range of natural foods and household products. Also visit Down to Earth Cafe. recommended

• The Bali boost, a seriously uplifting blend of nutrients, vitamins, and brain stimulators, which tastes just like a nutty chocolate milkshake.

• The planet platter is a macrobiotic tour de force of brown rice, seitan, tempeh, beans, mineral rich seaweed, pickles and greens.

• Walnut carob balls, and Goji berry (wolfberry) balls. green credentials

• A dedicated mission to reshape the future of the planet through nutrition and environmental consciousness.

• Supporting cottage industries and local farming traditions.

• Ethical integrity and an environmental conscience through recycling, education and awareness. june 2012

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to dine for

• Bamboo steamed fish with coconut broth laced with tamarind juice and lime, accompanied by nutty red rice.

• Sweet coconut cheesecake topped with toasted coconut and raisins. green credentials

om beach lounge restaurant

• Hosting its own organic Sunday market.

• Having sustainable building construction.

• Recycles and provides biodegradable takeaway containers.

om beach lounge restaurant Jl. Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach, T: 0361 960 4121, www. ombeachrestaruantbali.com Everything about this restaurant has been designed to soothe the senses, from views of windswept Canggu Beach to the gentle tinkling of wind chimes in the trees, to the rustle of white drapes fluttering in the breeze. Built entirely from bamboo, the pavilion features soaring ceilings leading to a central skylight that channels rays of sun over the island bar. A separate, well-equipped children’s pavilion surrounded by expansive lawns makes it ideal for families. Founder Heinz combines his skills and experience as a chef and a 52

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bali buddha

naturopath to create a menu that transcends the “health food” label, offering creative, tasty, globally inspired organic cuisine. The lemonade is homemade – not from a can – and only coconut and olive oil are used in the kitchen.

Also coconut cream replaces dairy cream, and the duck (the leanest of meats) is organic. recommended

• Green fix juice blended with celery, sweet apple and a hint of ginger.

Jl. Jembawan no. 1, Ubud, T: 0361 976 324, www.balibuddha.biz The founders of Bali Buddha spearheaded the organic movement in Bali when they opened this quirky and colourful café in Ubud in 1994.

Their vision was to support a healthy lifestyle for themselves, their families and their customers.

Bright purple cushions fill cosy corners of the place, vibrant Buddha prints adorn the walls, magazines and well-being books fill the shelves, and a play area keeps the little ones entertained. Western and Indonesian homecooked style food is predominantly vegetarian, as well as being wholesome, nutritious, MSG free and seriously tasty. These days Bali Buddha is a one-stop holistic shop, also selling a range

bodag maliah

of bakery items, as well as natural foods, and beauty and household products, which are packed into bags made from recycled newspapers. Also check out their branches in Canggu and in the Bukit (south Bali). recommended

• Jelly belly juice with aloe vera and turmeric.

• The healthiest nasi campur, made from organic red rice, grilled coconut, tofu and tempeh, and steamed green veggies.

• Vegan tropical-living fruit pie, with a date and nut crust, layered with ripe fruit and sprinkled with coconut and almonds. green credentials

• Organic produce sourced from local farms and cottage industries.

• 90 per cent of waste composted or recycled.

• Supporters of “Say No to Plastic” and “Recycling Eco Bali/ABC”.

bodag maliah Sari Organik, Subak Sok Wayah, north Ubud, T: 0361 780 1839, www.sari-organik.com The rustic bamboo pavilion, settled like a ship in a sea of lush green rice paddies, provides a quintessential Balinese setting with a focus on organic food and healthy elixirs. Bodag Maliah, which translates as “overflowing basket”, offers salads literally picked fresh from the gardens of Sari Organik. You can even pick them yourself if you wish! Balinese-born founder Nila decided to show the way by creating the Sari Organic Centre after being horrified by latterday heavy use of pesticides and subsequently warning farmers. “If you give rice something to grow fast, you will also die fast,” she believes.

The centre bases its practices on fair trade standards and enriching the environment and the life of farmers and their families. Guests are welcome to explore the farm, which specialises

in growing organic vegetables and rice, also producing jams, homemade wines (try the dragon fruit) and cheese. Getting there is half the fun, requiring a 15-minute walk (or bike ride) along a narrow trail across the rice fields. recommended

• Purple Haze with pineapple, apple, tofu, mint, lettuce, parsley, and lemon.

• Lontong rice cooked in banana leaf with vegetables, tofu and tempeh with curry sauce.

• Vegan Crepe with soya ricotta cheese. green credentials

• Two organic farms.

• Working with farmers to reduce the use of chemicals and pesticides and instead support sustainable agriculture.

• Supporting numerous social and educational programs aimed at environmental awareness.• alison Bone june 2012

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grazing

ubud

warung enak

Imagine vintage Indonesia meets modern pop art. Part of the eclectic Ubud scene, Warung Enak is decorated with what look like ornaments from ’60s or ’70s Indonesian movies: antique Betawi lamps, retro cigarette advertising posters and shabby chic chairs. But don’t picture it as dowdy, because Warung Enak mixes this antiquity with brightness and fun. Adorned with colourful lampshades and funny monkey sculptures (can you 54

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spot all five of them?), and framed with bright blue railings, the venue offers a welcoming atmosphere.

Warung Enak is the kind of place that woos honeymooners and yet bursts with entertaining surprises for big families with kids.

the food Warung Enak doesn’t do things by halves when it comes to food.

the unique Aside from the Soto Night every Tuesday and the Barbeque Night every Friday, Warung Enak provides a cooking class on Monday, Thursday and Saturday.

The cooking class package includes free transport pick-up within the Ubud area, a visit to the traditional market to learn about the essence of Indonesian ingredients, and the cooking class itself. Afterwards, the participants will receive a booklet of the recipes, a certificate, a participation gift, and, most importantly, the right to brag. Now not only can you enjoy authentic Indonesian food, but you can also rustle up fantastic examples of it.

• runi indrani Warung Enak, Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud, T: 0361 972 911, www.warungenakbali.com

images courtesy of warung enak

the setting

Serving authentic Indonesian fare, the menu includes Balinese, Sumatran and Javanese delicacies.

Start with the fresh asinan Jakarta and the Balinese tum ayam. If you’re looking for more filling appetisers, go for the famous lumpia Semarang or Sumatra’s signature empek-empek Palembang.

The main course offers chicken, duck, beef or pork dishes. If you’re a fan of Sumatran spicy beef rendang, then opt for the pangek sapi. For a lighter meal try the crispy duck served with sambal matah. But our personal favourite is the sate campur, a combination of chicken, lamb and fish satay, served on a mini grill with burning charcoal to keep them warm and tasty. A visit to Warung Enak won’t be complete without at least one of the hearty Indonesian desserts, such as the relishing dadar gulung or the banana and jackfruit fritters.

seminyak

Images Courtesy of mantra

mantra the setting With an open patio where you can just slide in and rub shoulders with like-minded strangers, Mantra possesses the kind of laid-back, island charm that big players often try to replicate. Add to that the warm mix of wooden tables and red-brick décor, topped with glass lamps of multiple origin, and the venue reverberates with a great fusion of tastes and vibes, which in part is what Bali uniquely is in modern times.

The mezzanine floor functions as a lounge where musicians do their stuff and lend their aural

allure to keeping the guests sipping the generous cocktails. the food Vegetarian and seafood are the themes displayed on the menu. This concept comes from Tipi Jabrik, the founder, who favours these kinds of dishes. Chef Renaz perfects the idea by serving a rich selection of meals with cuisines from all over the globe. Reintroduce yourself to local delicacies served with a twist, such as the sate tempe (tempeh satay) and the baked pumpkin urap salad. Better yet, do some sharing with friends over such delectable

plates as the sweet and sour crispy squid or the prawn and snapper fishcakes. The main dishes revolve around fish, pasta and potatoes, and we can’t help keeping our manners trim when the char grilled yellow fin tuna arrives at the table.

The smooth pale pink exterior masks the fresh, tender insides. It’s an overall smart execution. the unique The bold concept of Mantra is a force to be reckoned with among the joints dotted along Petitenget Street, as is the bar manned by Tim Adams. Sample the Rocket’s Mantra, which cleverly infuses aromatic Japanese wasabi into the drink (we relish it!). Or have

some beautiful pinot grigio to complement your fish order. And if your preferences are not on the menu, rest assured that Tim will happily take up your order and concoct your special drink.

Another element that’s worth rave reviews is the entertainment, which ranges from lively acoustic performances to quirky art exhibitions. “It’s random,” says Tipi of the types of music playing at the venue. Random indeed might be the perfect leitmotif for this eclectic joint, whose comfort food is honestly genuine and sumptuously healthy. • chris andre Mantra, Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 77x, T: 0361 473 7681, www.mantrabali.com june 2012

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grazing

dava

ayana resort and spa

food events

allspice, the royal santrian

Start your day with The Royal Santrian’s Unlimited Breakfast offer at its Allspice Restaurant. The name is self-explanatory, with guests invited to order from an extensive breakfast menu. Imagine baskets of freshly baked bread and portions of exquisite delicacies that change daily and vary from thin slices of duck breast, Wagyu beef and salmon to mini prawn omelettes and California rolls. There are also freeflowing drinks and a generous platter of sweet treats. T: 0361 778 181

patio, plataran resort bali Treat yourself to a healthy set of menus at the Patio Terrace and Lounge.

Ensconced in the Plataran Resort in Kerobokan, Patio inhabits a tranquil and serene realm. Now the restaurant welcomes chef Nyoman Rai, the creative head of vegetarian and raw dishes. Be adventurous and try his vibrant plates of raw curry floats in sublime avocado soup, snap fresh asparagus, and a green salad with tangy ginger dressing. T: 0361 411 388 56

june 2012

Inspired by the concept of a surprise date, chef Jusman this month offers the Surprise Menu for guests with playful appetites. Once your dietary or allergyrelated restrictions are noted, get ready to welcome delicious creations as the inventive chef whips up a personalised four-course menu. The Surprise Menu is set separately from the à la carte options and the nightly degustation menus. T: 0361 702 222

veranda

the westin resort nusa dua

Encounter the richness of authentic Indian food at The Westin Resort’s Veranda. Its Indian chef, Mohan Singh Rawat, presents the Indian Buffet Delight, a selection of scrumptious northern Indian cuisine, all nutritional dishes that go hand in hand with Westin’s healthy lifestyle concept.

The à la carte menu is available all week except on Thursday, from 11.30am until 2.30pm and 6pm to 11pm. T: 0361 771 906

helipad

discovery kartika plaza hotel

dijon café ubud The enticing Dijon Café finally sets up shop in Ubud (Raya Sanggingan Street) after successfully gaining followings in Kuta and the vicinity with the first café on Setiabudhi Street, open since 2001. Given the sandwiches and healthy meals taking pride of place among other gourmet items on the menu, your appetite, needless to say, is in safe hands. T: 0361 971 996

Make a change from your usual restaurants and cafes by visiting the Indonesia’s pasar malam at the Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel. Inspired by the traditional night market concept, guests are invited to bask in the delights of traditional hawkers selling enticing food and crafts. Enjoy the Traditional Night Market while savouring the breathtaking view of South Kuta Beach every Saturday from 6pm to 10pm. T: 0361 751 067

cubby house kids club

semara resort & spa seminyak

Spend quality time with your kids at Cubby House Kids Club, Semara Resort & Spa Seminyak. Every first Sunday of the month, you can bring your kids to Cubby House Kids Club for its themed parties and Special Activity Sunday. Better yet, the parents get to enjoy a two-for-one Summer Italian Cuisine Special at The Deck all day. T: 0361 847 6661

grazing MahiMahi TarTar SeaSoned WiTh exoTic FruiT, coconuT Milk and Green leMon ingredients: • 200 grams diced fresh mahimahi • 2 spoons chopped shallots • 1 spoon diced each of mango, orange, papaya, tomato, watermelon, honeydew • 2 spoons chopped coriander

f rédéric boulay the executive chef of sakala applies his secret seasoning techniques and dishes out a succulent mahimahi tartar

My regular comfort meal is nice meat such as beef strip loin, veal fillet or pork loin, all cooked medium rare with creamy mashed potato, green vegetables and tasty meat juice with fresh cream and herbs.

I started cooking when I was 13 years old in Quebec City, Canada. I began cooking at home with my father making omelettes, French toast, crepes and roasted potatoes.

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The most essential item in the kitchen is good-quality sea salt. I believe the secret of good cuisine is the seasoning.

My worst kitchen disaster was during a ninecourse dinner for 180 guests on New Year’s Eve 1999/2000 in Quebec City. While the guests were finishing the cheese course, the maître d’ went into the kitchen a few minutes before midnight to pop the Champagne for

method: Simply mix all the ingredients together in a bowl. Season it with sea salt, crushed pepper, a drizzle of olive oil and lemon zest.

the staff. The cork shot straight to the ceiling and ricocheted back down onto the pyramid of Champagne glasses, which collapsed into the big platter that contained the mignardises.

The best dish I’ve tasted so far is beef wellington stuffed with seared foie gras, and “boudin blanc” with caramelised apple, and shaved black truffle from Périgord. My father made all this during a family Christmas dinner.

My favourite chef is Michel Bras (Laguiole, France) owing to his respect for food, his teamwork, precision and consistency.

My favourite food critic is “The Michelin Guide” and “San Pellegrino’s Top 50 Restaurants” since they are recognised everywhere in the world for their professionalism. If you follow these guides you will be happy with the choices most of the time.

My signature dish is many. Australian lamb rack, wagyu beef cheeks, Tasmanian smoked salmon, coral trout, yellow fine tuna and crayfish are some of the must-tries at Sakala.

• ChrIs Andre sakala Bali, Jl. Pratama no. 88, Tanjung Benoa, T: 0361 774 499, www.sakalabali.com

image courtesy of sAKALA BALI

kitchen talk

• 5 spoons coconut milk • 5 spoons green lemon juice

spirit.ual journey

do it yourself

ingredients 30ml tequila 15ml orange liqueur 30ml orange Juice 2 scoops Rhubarb Sorbet rHuBArB SorBeT

38ml balsamic vinegar 38ml mixed berries 500gm rhubarb 300ml strawberry puree 600ml water t250ml sugar syrup a dash of white wine vinegar method Prepare the rhubarb by removing the skin and simmering it for an hour. Then strain and remove the liquid.

Mix the ingredients for the rhubarb sorbet and place it in an ice cream machine for one to two hours. Once it’s ready, blend all the rest of the ingredients and serve the drink in a chilled margarita glass. Garnish it with caramelised orange and lime zest.

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b svenaz I

often hear people wondering where the best sunset spot on the island is.

While obscure names such as Impossible Beach or Green Ball Beach enter the conversation, Double Six hardly gets a mention.

Iconic, legendary and most importantly easy to reach, this venue has long been catering to those with youthful hearts in search of a sun-kissed sociable retreat, one that brims with seductive sunset cocktails. Hence we have Cocoon.

A bar, restaurant and beach club, Cocoon includes all the elements you could ever wish for in an idyllic tropical paradise. The inviting blue azure pool flanked by polished white sun lounges appeals to the eye, while the bar ammunition is loaded with quirky, innovative concoctions ready to sate worldly palates. And this is where the true colours of Cocoon stand out.

As a cocktail destination, Cocoon shines brightly on our hellobali radar. The newly

revamped beverage menus by Badru Salam take exotic ingredients through a sophisticated process to create exceptionally sensational drinks. The signature B Svenaz epitomises the level of attention and dedication lavished upon mixology. Chilled, flavourfully rich and befitting the sunset hours, it’s a swanky choice that tops your perfect lazy afternoon under the sun – which is what Double Six is all about.

Take the romance-oozing cocktail with you to Cocoon’s second floor, where the entrancing white décor might be your dream venue to tie the knot and say “I do”. For more exquisite temptations, let chef Nick Phillip take over your worries and whip up savoury bites at one of Bali’s most unforgettable sunset viewing sites.

• Chris Andre Cocoon, Blue Ocean Blvd, Jl. Double Six/Arjuna, T: 0361 731 266, www.cocoon-beach.com

style

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it’s in the bag paris hilton and julia roberts are among his legions of fans. sabbatha raps with hellobali on his passion for fashion

I

wander into Sabbatha’s store on Jalan Raya Seminyak and can feel the sleek, polished black surfaces ease me into his world. I’m early and sit for a while looking at the bags and accessories placed on shelves as if they comprised an individual sculpture or piece of art. I guess they really did, especially to the man himself, who a moment later pulls up on his motorbike.

Admittedly he’s not quite what I expected.

Sabbatha is dressed down, casual, relaxed and extremely charming. Dressed ready for the gym following our meeting, he still has a fresh and very hip vibe about him, without any pretentiousness at all. Yet there’s no mistaking his experience and worldly outlook.

It could stem from the years he spent in Paris studying architecture and interior design, or it could simply be that he’s a very nice guy.

This is definitely a man who knows what he wants, bravely throwing himself into handbag design in spite of his studies in quite contrary fields.

“My father is a caricaturist, so I got my artistic skills from him, I suppose,” he says, trying to justify his obvious talent. “I’d gone to Bali for holidays before moving to Paris and when I finished my studies, I just decided I’d move here permanently.”

The Jakarta native, whose father hailed from Yogyakarta and whose mother was born in Jaipur, India, takes his unique name from arriving in this world on a Sunday.

It’s different and fits him perfectly.

“I’ve always been able to draw. That’s where my interest in architecture and interiors came from. But I moved into designing because it’s what’s inside me, and I wanted to establish it because it gives me so much satisfaction,” he explains of the move to bags. “It translates

into what I’m really about as an individual.”

He began in advertising on the island but soon gave in to the urge to design, placing some of his work in a friend’s shop at first.

It wasn’t long before an impressed Greek wholesaler began inundating him with orders, and Sabbatha in Seminyak was born.

“Each piece starts from sketches, because I love colour and mixing old materials with others,” he says. “I like to please my clients, make them proud of what they buy.”

Perhaps due to the fact that I’m aware of Sabbatha’s architectural studies, I can see the structural lines quite visibly in his bags.

You can imagine how beautifully and lovingly they were sketched. Thoughtful lines and contrasting shapes along with cleverly hidden pockets are all incorporated into the look.

Another striking aspect is the oftenglittering details that spill mainly over the front of the bags. “I love detail and sparkly additions. It’s also a reflection of me as an architect. Because bags are quite interesting shapes, you can see the structure of how they’re a little different, not just common bags,” he says, echoing my thoughts.

The embellishments include tiny silver butterflies, teddy bears and semi-precious stones. The silver pieces are created from Sabbatha’s own sketches, and circular handles are carved from buffalo and deer horns to his specifics. He applies the same detail to his leather wristbands but has no urge to foray into clothing design. If anything, his next move will be to create scents. I’m a little surprised by this, but then he is no ordinary man.

He’s beaming with creativity but doesn’t follow any type of convention. He’s clearly

on a very personal and individual path.

Sabbatha reads my thoughts again and explains that while in Paris he was struck by the process of perfume creation during an insider tour of a perfumery.

“I’m interested in selling the whole Bali package in scent form,” he shares. “I’m going to maybe begin with room perfumes and explore it from there. But this is a long-term goal. I can’t focus on five things at once so I’ll take one thing at a time, as it comes.”

Sabbatha also creates jewellery, all one-off pieces depending on how creative he feels.

“I only make one or two very unique pieces.

But really, I prefer to work with leather.”

His love affair with leather is obviously strong and you can hear it in his words.

“My personal colour preferences are green, silver and blue. I love the earthy tones.”

I point to a piece in the store that is pale pink, and he responds that he was trying something different, and that many ladies like to own a distinctive pink bag. Indeed Paris Hilton, who recently visited Bali, made a beeline

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“Sabbatha also creates jewellery, all one-off pieces depending on how creative he feels. ”

for his shop, as did Julia Roberts, who also walked away with a couple of his creations.

Most recently he caused a bit of a commotion on the street when the wives of visiting dignitaries from Jakarta turned up at his store complete with bodyguards and companions.

And boys need not despair. Sabbatha designs bags for men too. “They’re not like normal man-bags,” he points out. “They’re very unique. But girls buy them too!

“I also realised that visitors to Bali were after something of a more contemporary nature, something that was original and modern, produced in Bali, to take home with them.”

Europeans are taking notice of his unique designs and certain provinces in Italy and France are beginning to say his name out loud. “And that’s fine with me. I don’t want to become a celebrity designer.

I’m happy with what I can achieve today.”

We laugh while imagining him in dark glasses hiding from paparazzi, but I can tell from his demeanour that

this could be a possibility one day.

“The desire overseas, especially in Europe, for items made in Bali that are original and attractive is increasing,” he admits. “I’ve had some exhibitions in Europe and America, but this year I’ve focused on creating and meeting my orders. Besides, it’s a big investment to exhibit, so for now my agents mostly represent me internationally.”

Having said that, Sabbatha does fly to Europe every six months. But as a mostly one-man show he finds it difficult to leave his workshop for any length of time.

“Most important in the design of a bag is the look. It’s so important,” he says. “For me and from a design point of view I create the look first and foremost. Second but also vital is great quality. And third is function and utility.

“Working in leather is easy. I love working with it, but the difficulty lies in finding great quality. But once you find it, it lasts for a long time.”

He shows me a trick, a test to ascertain if leather is of good quality. You should pinch

the leather – if the colour breaks it’s no good.

Sabbatha now dyes his own leather as well.

Proud of his Indonesian heritage, Sabbatha relays his wish for local talent to be further developed. “There are talented people in Bali, more than we know. And more westerners are moving here. We have a history unlike any other, and I’d like to highlight our own unique way of producing and designing things.”

And his favourite designers in Bali?

“People like Ali Charisma are helping indirectly to grow Bali talent. And I like Niluh Djelantik (shoe designer), and also Johnny Ramli (clothing and jewellery designer).”

Internationally he appreciates designs

by Bottega Veneta, Lanvin and Balenciaga.

Sabbatha carries out his designing mostly in his workshop, though sometimes at home.

“Normally I design during the day, but if I want to make a new sample it has to be in the morning because I build from there and choose the leather. But it’s in the evenings that ideas come to me and when I sketch.”

When relaxing, Sabbatha mostly enjoys hanging out with his friends, many of whom are designers and creative people in their own right. He goes to the beach, and to an occasional club followed by a party at home. But this design caper – he certainly carries it securely in his bag. • AnitA Duffin june 2012

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essence

Rob Peetoom Hair Spa

the look The openness, clean-cut design and the small lily ponds here and there create a serenity that immediately eases your stress. But the best part of the setting must be its backyard view, which you’ll enjoy while getting pampered.

The lush green paddy field is so calming and entrancing that it will put even the most neurotic mind into a state of tranquillity.

the touch As its name indicates, this salon’s signature treatment is the hair spa. The treatments 66

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last for 15, 30, 45 or 60 minutes.

We recommend you opt for the longest one to get maximum pleasure. The treatment starts with a hair wash using customised shampoo, and then proceeds to the customised hair shot and hair mask. For the final touch, the hair will be rinsed using doublepurified water. And if that’s not enough you will also enjoy a head, neck, back, hand and foot massage with hot stone therapy.

the ingredients Staying true to his other salons in the Netherlands, Rob Peetoom

to produce the concoction that most suits your hair. Whether it’s permed, damaged, dyed, normal or oily, the salon has the right potion for you.

the special If you’re going for a haircut, you needn’t worry about the usual horror of hairstylists forcing their ideas on you. At this salon the stylists will always consult you first and give their input before settling on the hair-do that fits you best. They take every factor into consideration – your profession, your personality, your face shape, the colour of your eyes and of course what you actually want – before cutting or colouring your locks. • RUNI INDRANI

images Courtesy of roB PeetooM HAIr sPA

rob peetoom hair spa

uses the Redken hair care brand – you won’t find it anywhere else in Indonesia. The brilliance lies in its wide selection of products, which cater to all kinds of hair.

The salon crew like to call the products “cocktails” because they can be mixed with one another

Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 16, Seminyak, T: 0361 738 363, www.robpeetoom.nl

h’ spa the look Located next to the hotel pool, this spa is somewhat hidden behind the tropical plants that have been placed strategically around the spa building. There are five treatment rooms available here and some are designed to cater to couples.

We tested the single room, which has an outdoor area with a shower and a large bathtub. The spa also has a separate room for reflexology, as well as a small gym.

images Courtesy of DALA sPA

the touch We tested the spa’s ayurvedic massage package, which lasted for two hours and which included a very good aromatherapy massage, as well as a peaceful shirodhara session, during which ayurvedic oil is continuously poured onto your forehead. Just like the Tibetan

on your neck and shoulders, the spa has a 45-minute session specifically designed to ease your Gordian Knots of tension.

HARRIS Resort Kuta Beach

Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta, T: 0361 753 868, www.kuta-bali.harrishotels.com

the ingredients singing bowl, the continuous flow of this oil worked hypnotically and helped to clear the mind.

The spa also offers deep-tissue massages, which can be enjoyed for an hour or for 90 minutes, depending on your needs. There’s also a massage that involves the use of warm, black volcanic stones.

And if you only feel like focusing

All of the massage oils used here are made from unique herbal concoctions and there are four different types of massage oil to choose from. For a regular massage, jasmine, ylang-ylang, green tea and sandalwood are available, while aromatherapy massages utilise a different type of oil. Those who opt for the King or Queen at Harris package

will get to enjoy an even more special type of massage oil.

the special H’Spa also offers three different reflexology treatments and quite a few beauty-related treatments, including a 45-minute session of ear cleaning! • june 2012

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essence grand hyatt bali

kriya spa

spa deals

Regain your youthful looks with the rejuvenating Ingan Jyot photofacial treatment. The 75-minute therapy derives its name from the Sanskrit translation of light and age, and works on repairing visible signs of aging.

A special price offer is given for a three-sessions booking. T: 0361 778 884

amadea resort and villas

ambiente spa

In celebration of Amadea’s first anniversary, don’t miss this June’s Deluxe Spa Package. Beside the daily breakfast for two, welcome drinks and return airport transfer, the package offers a 75-minute spa treatment at the Ambiente Spa. The package is valid for every two-night stay at the Deluxe Room or Deluxe Pool Terrace. T: 0361 847 8155

radiantly alive

karma kandara

karma spa Revel in a divine experience with the Goddess Island Retreats from Karma Spa. Stay for three nights at the luxury pool villa accommodation at Karma Kandara Bali and enjoy the daily wellness breakfast and super food juices, the daily goddess fitness workouts, daily spa massages and detox infrared saunas, healing Reiki, celebrity oxygen facials, martini and manicures, healthy cooking class, a shopping trip with a personal driver, and sunset drinks. T: 0361 848 2200

the breezes bali resort

the spa

Experience the Royal Touch Pampering by The Spa at The Breezes. The four-hour treatment includes a fresh aromatherapy body steam and sauna, refreshing foot therapy, the crystals bliss massage, grapefruit exfoliation, fresh tropical bath, crystal breeze facial, and a manicure and pedicure. WhatÕ s even better, throughout this June guests will get a 15 per cent discount on the Royal Touch Pampering and also The Breezes BaliÕ s Signature Treatments. T: 0361 730 573 68

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The celebrated yogi and raw food expert Daniel Aaron has just established a brand new yoga studio called Radiantly Alive. Not only does it aim to guide participants toward freedom from false limitations, but it will also train yogis to assist others. Expect some cool programs such as the Radiantly Alive Yoga Teacher Training, and the Raw Food Chef Training. Discover the layers underlying today’s yogic styles of jivamukti, iyengar, astanga and many more. E: info@radiantlyalive.com

the westin resort nusa dua

westin spa

This summer, The Westin Spa combines two of life’s greatest pleasures: red wine and massage. Exhilarate your senses with the Red Wine Massage, which is rich with antioxidants and vitamins. If you long for better blood circulation and softer, brighter skin, then you definitely don’t want to miss this special treatment. T: 0361 771 906

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The published rate for the villas is US$ 460++.

bali island villas & spa Seminyak

room and the back garden, and the kitchen is also extremely neat.

But our favourite feature in this resort is the rooftop area. Each villa sports a rooftop space equipped with a day bed. This is perfect for many a thing: sunbathing, a barbecue party, a siesta under the sun and much more.

what about the facilities? what are the villas like?

Bali Island Villas’ one-bedroom villas are bigger than the average ones on the island. Its pool boasts ample space if you want to exercise in water, and its bathroom is equipped with a big spa-style bathtub. The bedroom can be completely partitioned off so that it is separated from the living 70

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There is a well-equipped gym if you want to burn off some calories while making the most of your time in Bali, and there is also a spa. Taman Merah Spa (www.tamanmerahspa. com) offers a wide variety of massages from traditional Balinese to Thai and even reflexology. This spa also offers beauty treatments such as facial, hair care and manicure and pedicure.

what about food and drink?

This hotel has a Java Jive Cafe (www.javajivecafe.com) that is also open to the public. It offers a wide range of food from traditional Indonesian bites such as nasi

Bali Island Villas & Spa, Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 469, Seminyak, T: 0361 473 6656, www.islandvillasbali.com

goreng and nasi campur to Thai curry dishes and a variety of sandwiches and burgers. On top of that, the hotel can also organise a romantic candle-lit dinner in your villa’s garden. •

ayana resort & spa bali unforgettable dinner dates and one-of-a-kind, cliff-top, under-thestars boogie sessions.

Jimbaran

what’s the resort like?

One of the biggest resorts on the island, Ayana Resort and Spa is also the one with arguably the most international and domestic awards.

Its sheer location is a strong enough reason to stay here, and on top of offering an unobtrusive view of the Indian Ocean, it boasts a great many world-class facilities that make up the perfect holiday: a superb spa experience,

what are the rooms like?

Recently, the resort completed a refurbishment of more than 200 of its suites and rooms. The new rooms and suites however still sport the Ayana signature vibe, where intricate Balinese carvings and traditional textiles are blended together with cool rain showers, futuristic lighting and chic sofas. We really like the new-look suites’ huge balconies and also their swanky bathtubs and, of course, the extracomfortable canopied beds.

The resort’s Club Floor has also been given a facelift, which includes the Club Lounge and its members’

benefits. The complimentary food and beverage presentations now change daily, offering creations from seven different restaurants at the resort. On top of that they now have a programme called Club Connections Package which gives guests even more benefits from the resort’s other facilities such as the spa, Rock Bar, the Langit Theatre.

what about the facilities?

This hotel has a state-of-the-art gym, steam rooms, and a sauna.

It also has one of the world’s largest aquatonic seawater therapy pools, which is full of cool water jets, and, of course, a massive spa complex considered by many to be one of the best in the world. On top of all that, the resort has five beautiful wedding venues, many trendy boutiques and a perfume-making studio.

what about food and drink?

Ayana Resort and Spa has as many as 12 dining venues. One of them is Dava, whose head chef is Jusman So, a chef extraordinaire who hails from Singapore. Then there is Sami Sami which serves Italian fare, Kisik, which is full of delicious seafood, and, of course, Rock Bar, a watering hole like no other on this planet. •

Based on a minimum four-night stay, rates start at US$ 474++/night for a Club Room and US$ 554++/night for a Club Suite.

Ayana Resort & Spa Bali, Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, T: 0361 702 222, www.ayanaresort.com

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ayana resort and spa Book the Ocean Villa at Ayana Resort and Spa and get more than what you paid for. Anyone who quotes the password “cliffhanger” while booking will be upgraded to a stay at the premium Cliff Villas.

The luxuries offered are unrivalled. Guests will enjoy a spacious 500sqm indoor and outdoor living space, 24-hour butler service and unlimited use of the 18-hole golf course and tennis pavilion. The offer is valid until June 30 for a minimum stay of four nights.

T: 0361 702 222

padma resort bali

Take advantage of your American Express credit card by getting a sweet deal from Padma Resort Bali. For a minimum stay of two nights, you will be able to enjoy discounts such as ten per cent off the internet rate, 15 per cent off the total payment in food and beverage outlets, and 50 per cent off hair spa, waxing, manicure or pedicure treatments at the Lotus Beauty Salon. The booking and stay period of the promo is valid until June 30.

T: 0361 752 111

kamandalu resort and spa

lodging deals st regis bali Spoil yourself with St Regis’s Villa Pampering package. The luxurious deal from St Regis guarantees a rejuvenating experience that includes a 60-minute Balinese massage spa treatment for two, a dinner in Kayuputi, and complimentary high speed Broadband/WI-FI in-room and throughout the resort. Also get a warm welcome with airport assistance for international arrivals, comfortable and luxurious transfers from and to the airport, and a sumptuous breakfast at Boneka Restaurant. The offer is valid until June 30.

T: 0361 847 8111

kupu kupu jimbaran The golfer in you will be unable to resist the Kupu Kupu Jimbaran Stay and Play (Golf) offer. The package covers access to the Beach Club facility, the 18-hole green fee, cart fee, caddy fee, players’ insurance and tax for two persons at the New Kuta Golf, and also the Great Links Challenge for two persons. After all that golfing, rejuvenate your tired muscles with a 60-minute Balinese Massage at the Bamboo Spa by L’Occitane. The offer is priced at US$ 750 and is valid for a two-night stay for two persons until June 30. T: 0361 703 342

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The early bird might well catch the worm but, in this case, itÕ s the early guest that gets the sweet deal. Book now for the summer holiday and save up to 30 per cent for the staying period between June 1 and September 15. Thanks to KamandaluÕ s Early Bird Price package, you get free WI-FI internet access at the villa or in the public areas, scheduled shuttle service to Ubud centre, complimentary welcome massage, a 20 per cent discount voucher for any spa treatment and 20 per cent off a one-way airport transfer.

T: 0361 975 825

hard rock hotel

This summer itÕ s time to rock your holiday with Hard Rock HotelÕ s We DonÕ t Need No Education promo. Starting from June 1 and lasting until August 15, the package offers return airport transfer, one-time dinner at Starz Diner for a maximum of two adults and two children, a one-time 90-minute Balinese massage and scrub for two adults, LilÕ Rock membership for two children or Tabu membership for two persons, a pizza voucher and Ò Shopping AroundÓ discount vouchers.

T: 0361 761 869

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postcards from toba Lake Toba is one of IndonesIaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most-celebrated destInatIons and overfLows wiTh bucoLic and cuLTuraL riches

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anau Toba is one of the largest lakes on the face of the planet, and can be found in an extinct super volcano that is perhaps one of the most breathtaking sights that this world has to offer. Behind the beauty though lies a history of cataclysm and a disaster which very nearly wiped out the entire human race some 77,000 years ago. According to the scientists, Danau Tobaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s furious eruption blanketed the planet in a volcanic winter that eliminated all but a few thousand breeding human pairs, and this is believed to be responsible for the limited human gene pool that can be mapped today.

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Don’t let all of this apocalyptic banter deter you from visiting the area though, as its recreational allure and natural splendour have put Danau Toba on the map as one of South-East Asia’s most iconic destinations. Lying nearly threeand-a-half-hours south of Indonesia’s third-largest city of Medan, the Toba area is usually reached via Jalan Lieutenant General Jamin Ginting. The immense lake is a hub for adventurers and is also the laidback home of North Sumatra’s native Batak population. While its outdoor appeal alone makes it worth the visit, Danau Toba’s local culture and attractions are sure to pique the interest of travellers from all walks of life.

what to do For a crash course on the various Batak tribes and some North Sumatran history, visit the Batak Museum and TB Silalahi Center (Jl. Pagar Batu No.88 Balige, T: 62 063 221 588, www. museumbataktbsilalahicenter.com). This place fills visitors in on the history of the indigenous people who inhabit Danau Toba and its surrounding areas. Spread over three floors, the museum features ancient, traditional Batak 76

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sculptures, as well as a seven-metre-tall bronze statue of the kingdom’s first divine ruler, Si Raja Batak. Must sees here include traditional dancing and puppet performances, which can be enjoyed at select times. Visitors can also lay their eyes on traditional weapons, ancient scriptures and, of course, take in picturesque views of the lake itself.

Infamous for its ritualistic cannibalism, the ancient Batak Empire was indeed a cruel one. This fact becomes immediately evident to travellers when they visit the three infamous judgment and execution megaliths on Samosir, the gargantuan island that occupies the middle of the Danau Toba crater lake. Put simply,

these stone relics once served as an assembly forum at which ancient kings collectively judged prisoners and offenders, an activity most often followed by a prompt public execution in the very same spot. The meticulous preservation of these archaeological attractions is sure to make the old neck hair stand to attention and visitors will feel as though they’ve been transported back through the mists of time. Samosir is easily reachable by the ferries that run from the city of Parapat on the lake’s eastern shore to the island’s entry point of Tuk-Tuk. For something a little more relaxing, adventurers should experience the Air Panas hot springs, which lie nestled in Pangururan district on the opposite side of the lake. The springs are actually almost on Samosir in fact, as they are situated next to a tiny strip of land that connects the island to the lake’s western shore. These hot springs offer a pristine environment in which nature enthusiasts can relax and socialise while enjoying heated, geothermal baths. It’s easy to unwind down here and the area’s quiet milieu and tranquility make most visitors lose track of time.

Overlooking the hot springs is Mount Pusuk Buhit. According to Batak legend, Si Raja Batak descended from heaven onto the peak of this mountain before he reigned supreme during the thirteenth century. With the hot springs at its base, the mountain is perfect for a day hike and offers a terrific opportunity to take in some widescreen vistas of Danau Toba. It’s recommended that avid hikers climb the mountain in the early morning so as to take in the sunrise. Climbers can then have an afternoon picnic and finally follow it all up with a hot-spring session in the evening.

One activity that visitors should spend an entire day enjoying is kayaking on the lake.

Adventurers from across the globe come to paddle through the lake’s serene waters and experience the splendour of its wildlife. Toba Sports (T: 62 616 635 279, www.tobasports. com) offers guided kayak tours of the lake.

Excursions range in duration from three hours

images JAN DEKKER AND GETTY IMAGES

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to six days, so it’s important for visitors to know what they are getting themselves into beforehand. The company’s base of operations is located in Tongging on the northern shore of Danau Toba, and prices vary depending on the tour option and the number of people participating in the expedition.

where to stay Having worn yourself out with a day on the lake, finding secure lodgings is a breeze, as Danau Toba has a sizable selection of hotels and homestays to choose from. Carolina Cottages and Hotel (Tuk-Tuk Siadong, T: 62 625 451 210, www.carolina-cottages.com) is inexpensive and a perfect spot for families and couples. It offers several amenities, including motorbike and canoe rentals, as well as a money changer and even a liquor store. Its famous restaurant and handy location also help to make it one of the more popular places to stay in the Danau Toba area.

Another fantastic yet authentic option is the Bagus Bay Homestay (Tuk-Tuk, T: 62 625 451 287, bagus-bay.page.tl ), which offers top-notch service accompanied by stellar views of the lake.

Guests can rent deluxe suites if they desire and also have the option to see what it’s like to stay in a traditional Batak house, as these can be reserved for a small extra charge and offer a uniquely genuine Sumatran experience.

For more conventional lodgings, check into the Patra Parapat Lake Resort (JI. Pertamina Siuhan, T: 62 215 217 217, www. patra-jasa.com/parapat) which is situated on a hillside peninsula overlooking the lake’s northeastern shore. This resort is enclosed by scenic cliffs and waterfalls, and boasts an excess of comforts, including a large swimming pool, sports facilities and a high-volume karaoke club to cut loose in.

Visitors seeking something even more lavish should head straight to the Hotel Niagara Parapat (Jl. Pembangunan No. 1, T: 62 614 158 877, www. niagaralaketoba.com). This four-star castle-like hotel sits on a high bluff, and prides itself on its superior service and its full spectrum of luxury options. Here, guests can choose from several different restaurants, ride horses through the surrounding countryside or simply enjoy live music at the hotel’s celebrated Lisoi Lounge.

and Rodeo) offers traditional Batak cuisine alongside a sizable selection of western favourites. Maruba is noted for its warm, personal service, as well as for its boneless fish curry and signature stir fries. For a real taste of what it’s like to be a native Batak, order up the chopped pork smothered in fresh pig’s blood.

Also well-known for its curry, barbeque dishes and Wiener Schnitzel, Jenny’s Restaurant (Tuk-Tuk, Samosir) is much loved for its cosy atmosphere and smoked fish. At sunset, Jenny’s husband, Rinto, routinely serenades guests with his guitar as they look out upon the lake after dinner. For those who want to spoil themselves rotten, the golden-brown banana pancakes are highly recommended.

If you’re after something a little more private and traditional, visit Orari Restaurant (Jl. Lingkar Tuk-Tuk, T: 62 625 451 093, orarirestaurant.page4.me). This is an excellently secluded spot for a date and offers Batak and European cuisine. Renowned for its pasta dishes and beef rendang, Orari also serves as a departure point from Tuk-Tuk back to Parapat on the mainland. • Leighton Cosseboom

“Danau Toba’s furious eruption blanketed the planet in a volcanic winter that eliminated all but a few thousand.”

where to eat Hailed as Lake Toba’s best restaurant, Maruba (Tuk-Tuk, in between Amberoba Hotel

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once upon a time in bali

a visual record of his journey and a final goodbye to the island of the gods, jesse parrotti’s exhibiton, a time in bali, tells it all in melancholic shades and poignant expressions

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merican-born Jesse Parrotti, expressionist painter-cum-graphic designer, didn’t plan to stay long in Bali when he and his girlfriend departed from San Francisco three years ago. What was supposed to have been a short jaunt to a tropical paradise extended into an artisan’s voyage of self-discovery, as he embarked on a journey to his personal no-man’s land: impressionism.

“My previous work was very much from my own head – pure expression rather than impression,” says the softspoken artist. “I never worked from life or with models in the past. It’s always from my imagination, building out abstract stories or ideas as images.”

Taking a stroll around his final exhibition at the newly opened Mantra, however, one would never guess that Jesse has just recently delved into the world of impressionism.

Under the guidance of Noella Roos (read our February’s Expressions), he began to drink in the beauty of everyday scenes, of people from all walks of life, and pored over the intricate details of human anatomy and colours.

The result is stunning, if not brilliant. Emotions are captured so keenly in every art piece, but in movingly sad tones rather than happy brushstrokes. “This exhibition is a bookmark, ending a chapter in my life,” explains Jesse. “I’ll be returning to the US, where I’ll continue to focus on painting and drawing.”

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expressions him a wealth of artistic experience that perhaps only Bali could ever have provided. “My work here has been a bit more grounded in the physical world, a bit more sober – something not to be found in my earlier work, prior to 2010. It represents a period of crucial growth in my creative process, technique and subject matter. A thorough understanding of colour, value and the human form was a necessary starting point, which grew over the past two and a half years working closely with my mentor, Noella,” admits Jesse, who finds working with charcoal or graphite ideal for immediate, natural expressions.

But the paintings on display at Mantra beginning on the eve of May 10 are in oils, a relatively new medium for Jesse. “When making images I find that oil paints are great at getting me to where I want to go, and to places I didn’t even know I wanted to go,” he explains. Well executed indeed. The colours, the strokes and the facial narratives of the subjects are a tour de force that draws the lingering observer ever deeper into the depiction. What is being told? What is he or she thinking or feeling?

“Conceptually, this exhibition is a reflection on the past two or three years of my life, my time in Bali – the experiences I have had, the lessons I have learned and the people I have met. It’s a visual record of an experience, distilled and synthesised in regards to both time and space.”

He shares his thoughts delicately in words. “For sure, the work is deeply personal, but also, I think, communal and relatable. It is I, and it is Bali.”

Regarding what style of artist Jesse is today, he modestly brushes off the imposing term of impressionist. “My current work certainly has impressionist influences, but I would rather 80

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not limit myself to just that. I like the term speculative-impressionism. To me it means I get to define my own reality, and redefine at my pleasure,” he cleverly comments.

Asked which painting happens to be his favourite, Jesse seems indecisive. “There’s this young Javanese woman in a yellow blouse. I love the quality of the brushwork and the immediacy of the painting. Another is of a Balinese girl reclining in a chair in my studio. She’s wearing a brilliant red dress, and I can really feel the space she sits in, I can put myself there. I really had to struggle with this one and, in the end, it paid off.”

As an observer, I couldn’t agree more. The honest yet vivid quality of the paintings provokes subtle yet profound questions. “Painting, and drawing especially,” Jesse puts into perspective, “is about technique and knowledge for sure, but it’s also about intuition and connection. You have

to actually paint and draw, not just think about it, but do it and also feel it; that will come through in the work, and in the end you can see it.”

• CHRIS ANDRE A Time in Bali exhibition by Jesse Parrotti runs from May 10 to June 9 at Mantra, Jl. Petitenget no. 77x, Seminyak, T: 0361 4737 681, www.mantrabali.com

counter culture

mash, bash, pulverise on the hindu symbols of the phallic lingam and its female equivalent, the yoni

I

n Bali, the right-angled, hammer like pestle, or ulek-ulek, peculiar to Indonesia and other parts of the Malay world, is called the anak or anak cobek. I presume this is because it is smaller than, but made of the same stuff as, the shallow heavy saucer or slab of the mortar, the cobek whose surface is the arena of culinary violence, but all for a good cause. Both the mortar and the pestle are usually chiselled from hard, grey basalt, a stone of volcanic origin, and this makes me recall that the volcano that rises up in the middle of a much larger caldera left by an ancient cataclysm is also referred to as the anak, or â&#x20AC;&#x153;childâ&#x20AC;? of the volcano. Perhaps this then is another reason for the naming of the pestle given how relatively numerous volcanoes and their progeny across the archipelago. People I have spoken

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images andi sucirta

to are unsure of the origin but are quick to agree that my suggestion is plausible – maybe just to get rid of me and my stupid questions and get on with the business at hand, like making me something delicious to eat. Nevertheless, credible or not, when I look down into the outer caldera of Gunung Batur all I see is the potential for gargantuan quantities of sambal.

The Hindu symbols of the phallic lingam and its female equivalent, the yoni, also spring to mind. These Shivaist forms are routinely equated both with volcanic peaks and calderas, and the forms and functions of pestles and mortars. In other parts of Indonesia also, the mortar and pestle are explicitly connected with ideas of sex and fertility. According to the West Javan Sundanese worldview, for example, the concave mortar or cowet is, unsurprisingly, considered the female counterpart to the male pestle or mutu.

There’s no doubt they make a marvellous couple, a masterpiece of simple, practical design. Beautiful too. The rough, flat surface of the mortar and the weight of the pestle facilitating the task of mashing together the chilli, garlic, bawang merah (shallots), ginger, galangal, turmeric, pepper corns and other herbs and spices – the base (pronounced bas-eh) that go into a variety of spice pastes and sauces. The right angled “handle” of the anak turns this task into a rhythmic rocking and grinding movement

quite different to the pounding motion of other club like pestles used in deep bowled mortars. The ingredients are pushed back and forth across the stone, firmly coaxing them into a fragrant paste bound with oil, releasing flavours and combining them.

Even state of the art Balinese kitchens equipped with high-speed blenders and gleaming processors assembled in the world’s industrial zones will have one of these vestiges of the age of stone and wood among its inventory. Thus far it has also remained a crucial feature of the island’s backing-track, the grinding, mashing and scraping providing a bass substrate for the top-end accents of stone on stone; a percussion section so familiar in both the domestic spaces of Balinese compounds, and the public ones of warung and pasar that it is a taken for granted part of the ambience. As with Pavlov’s dog though, when it’s close at hand the sound still registers deep in my pleasure centre and I salivate in anticipation of the fragrances and tastes to follow.

Variations of a basic spice paste for use with meat, chicken, fish or vegetables are many. These can be used as the basis of soups and curries, as marinades, or just as a condiment on the side. I’m no gastronome but this one works for me. Quantities are approximate. A little more or a little less, whatever; don’t be too precious.

• PETER STEPHENSON

ingredients • Twelve large red chillies – if you like it hot don’t bother discarding the seeds, just make sure you tear off the green bit. Tip: (don’t) use your teeth.

• Six cloves of garlic – no need to peel them too carefully, it’s easier to pick out the papery skin later once you’ve started grinding.

• Ten shallots – the tiny red onions called bawang merah.

• Skins: as for garlic.

• Piece of ginger about the size of your thumb.

• Piece of fresh turmeric about the size of your big toe.

• Piece of galangal about the size of your other big toe.

• Three or four candlenuts or macadamia nuts.

• The fleshy parts of two stalks of lemongrass – make yourself a pot of tea with the rest. Tip: it’s best to finely slice these before you start grinding.

• Two tablespoons of white pepper corns – or black will do.

• Two tablespoons of coriander seeds.

Tip: quickly dry roast these in a wok before adding them to the mix.

• Two heaped teaspoons of coarse sea salt – as well as drawing out the flavours this acts as an abrasive agent to assist with the grinding process.

• About three tablespoons of oil – coconut oil is best, but vegetable or peanut will do.

• You can also add a chunk of roasted terasi – or shrimp paste; or a chunk of palm sugar for a hint of nutty sweetness. method Press, pound and mash the ingredients until combined, adding the oil as you go.

Depending on the size of your mortar, you might also need to work the ingredients in little by little. When you’re done, and the paste is smooth, fry it in a small amount of oil for about two minutes. If it looks too dry add a dash of water. Let it cool and it’s ready to use.

It’s that simple, and very good for your pecs!

june 2012

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community

the backyard revolution

A

s consumers become more aware of the effect of food additives and chemical farming on their daily food intake, and as trends around the developed world shift to a more natural nutritional paradigm, people are starting to recognise the importance of healthy soils in which to grow food. So it’s encouraging to find out that here in Bali, residents of urban as well as rural areas are being encouraged to “take back the land”, even if that land consists only of your backyard.

However, even the smallest plot can bring yields that will add fresh ingredients to your daily diet and the Akarumput organisation is now bringing this good news to Bali’s urban dwellers. It is not only possible but in fact quite easy to improve your diet, as those reliant on purchasing their provisions from local markets are now being persuaded.

Akarumput’s aim is to assist in the understanding that fresh is always best. In fact, the nutritional value of food decreases the further it gets from its source, and that crisp lettuce sealed in plastic sitting under bright supermarket lights is losing goodness by the second. The same goes for all vegetables; 84

june 2012

however be reassured that the easiest items to grow are always the most delicious. To get down to brass tacks, tomatoes, long beans, snow peas and Chinese cabbages grow super fast in this climate and cultivating backyard vegetables also makes urban gardens cooler and prettier, and can even give the children of the family a sense of responsibility. The joy of watching seeds sprout into leafy plants that also taste delicious is a pleasure that can be had for free.

Akarumput’s Bali Urban Farmers (BUF) are currently creating show plots in Denpasar

to allow the logic and sustainability of their scheme to be seen in all of its green glory, and to inspire others to follow their lead. A system of compost collection is also being planned which will see representatives of the group collecting compostable waste from urban homes and in return trade vegetables grown in their gardens.

This innovative approach is designed to make gardening fun and functional again, removing the stigma of home grown produce and assisting the increasing numbers of urban families who are struggling with the rising costs of living. It’s an alternative approach with multiple benefits.

Bali Urban Farmers hold workshops for communities, set up gardens in schools and invite visiting guest experts from other parts of the world to impart their green-fingered wisdom.

It is the group’s strong belief that through an understanding of the importance of good nutrition and health, other wisdom, such as the need for responsible waste disposal, will follow.

Once you are invested in the fruit of your soil, the sky’s the limit! • katy roberts Visits to the Urban Farm in Renon, Denpasar can be arranged and donations to the Bali Urban Farmers programme and its bid to create urban farms in community areas and schools can be made through akarumput.com.

images COURTESy OF KATy ROBERTS

the bali urban farming movement will help you grow a little for a big change in your food lifestyle

afterhours

a dose of aural healing

W

hen out celebrating the best of Bali’s nightlife, I always view any new musical experience through the lens of an ethnomusicologist – a title I earned through graduate degrees and many years of arguing that as much fun as music is, it is also deeply important as an indispensable aspect of culture and a testament to our humanity.

So when artists like Nahko and Medicine for the People come to the island, the residual influence of my academic indoctrination spurs me to find out more about these kindred spirits.

During his days in Bali last, spent writing and recording new songs, surfing the blue waves, 86

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and playing practically every live music venue between Ubud and Uluwatu, I entreated frontman Nahko to take a short respite and talk about his heritage, hopes and music.

Oregon native Nahko Bear embodies a tapestry of cultures as rich as his music is penetrating in its social critique. Raised by adoptive parents in the Oregon suburbs, his Puerto Rican/Apache/Mohawk mother and Filipino father offer touchstones of heritage. He explores his birthrights through art, spirituality and activism, and spans an ocean by planting one foot in Oregon and the other in Hawaii, his newly adopted home.

Nahko tends to drink up every moment, person and place like honeyed elixir, and

Bali has been no exception. Describing a poem he shared on Medicine for the People’s weblog, Nahko writes of Nyepi: “I feel God in the slightest wind at the rate I manifest every dream deepens and I know I never want to stay the same.

On a day of silence while the island slept I cast my demons out at the feet of Ganesh said, ‘Remove the obstacles bravely with grace.’”

I ask Nahko what Bali has meant to him.

“Bali has changed my life so dramatically on so many levels: emotionally, spiritually, and culturally,” he reminisces. “I think one thing I have enjoyed the most is getting to know different communities: the surfers in Uluwatu, the yoga community in Ubud,

images rebekah e moore and nur rosyad

nahko bear applies his keen sense of music to deciphering the remedial quality cocooned in every tune, lyric and harmony

kids at the Green School, at Bali International School and at Serambi Arts Antida (Denpasar).”

Yet being carefully observant, Nahko acknowledges the insular qualities of Bali’s diverse communities and the difficulty for most to find common ground.

“They’re not fighting with each other, but they definitely don’t hang out with each other, either. So it’s an obvious miracle when you see different groups of people interacting through one mode – music. You see them all get down together.”

Nahko adds that, if anything, music also heals. “It started through me. All of the things that I was going through in my life, all that I was trying to work through – injustice, self-esteem, mistakes – I started to process these things and move forward through music. And that’s what music can be – a mode of transcendence for the next phase of life. It can remove guilt, and negativity.

It can be a patch for a wound.”

I pry further. “But what is it about music that does that?

Is it the lyrics? The communal experience? The escapism?”

“That’s what I mean in our song when I say ‘find your medicine and use it’,” he says. “What it is about music that helps to heal is different for everyone. The way you use music as medicine will be different from the way I use it. Everyone has to find their own medicine. So maybe we find healing through the lyrics, the vibration, the communal experience. It’s the same as finding God – we all want to connect to a divine spirit, but we find our own path.”

I recall the memorable performance by Nahko and Medicine for the People at the BaliSpirit Festival and the shows that followed. Sometimes exuberant, sometimes savage

“Nahko tends to drink up every moment, person and place like honeyed elixir, and Bali has been no exception.”

but always transformational, their selfdescribed “spirited, thump-hop storytelling” offers modern redemption. Nahko’s lyrics bear the burden of heavy messages, but the load is lightened by agile melodies and driving rhythms that coerce all who bear witness into spirited, purifying dance.

“Music has always been a part of all cultures,” Nahko says. “Music is how we tell our stories, create our myths, share our spirituality, pray, honour our value systems, and heal. Music is a way to inspire, create, and even incite social change. People are ready to receive messages and invoke healing, and they want a way to celebrate and remember.”

I concur. The sharp yet uplifting lessons embedded in his songs and the stirring sense of fellowship he creates in every performance demonstrate that music is medicine. Deeply invested in this belief and enriched by both the truthfulness of folksong and the primal vehemence of rock and roll, Nahko is a modern raconteur. He depicts human relationships at their most base and ideal, in the hope that a dose of honesty will do himself – and the world – a bit of good. • rebekah e moore june 2012

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Muslim area in Bali.

NEGARA Bali’s wild west with the best bull races. Predominantly

GUNUNG PRAPAT AGUNG

Ferry to Java

PURA PULAKI, PURA MELANTING

PURA RAMBUT SIWI

noisy clubs and dusty streets are the norm here.

INDIAN OCEAN

ULUWATU TEMPLE One of Bali’s most important sea temples. The 11th century temple stands ona tiny promontory 70m above the crashing waves of the Indian Ocean.

BENOA HARBOUR

with beautiful beaches.

NUSA DUA Bali’s most manicured, purpose oriented tourist enclave. Highly secured and luxurious hotels

sports and a village atmosphere.

restaurants and a relaxed, homey atmosphere.

SANUR Charming, low-key with a reef-protected beach, great

taurants and some good boutique shopping.

UBUD Bali’s royal cityis home to a melting pot of creative and bohemian inhabitants from around the world. Streets are lined up with art galleries, res-

suckling pig) on the island.

PURA BESAKIH

Lembongan joined by a narrow bridge.

NUSA PENIDA

Remote island with very traditional culture and spectacular eco diving.

LOMBOK STRAIT

is popular as a day boat trip.

part of the old palace still intact.

KLUNGKUNG Old royal city of the east famous for Klungklung-style painting and Kerta Gosa - The Hall of Justice - the only

sits atop a high headland overlooking the Lombok Straits.

PADANG BAI Fishing village, small resort, public ferries to Lombok. The important and ancient sea temple, Silayukti

famous Virgin Beach.

CANDIDASA East coast beach area with beautiful resorts and hinterlands and also the

shops and the native habitants.

TENGANAN Ancient and traditional village, famous for their double ikat weavings, textile

Karangasem called Tirta Gangga.

UJUNG Just outside Amlapura is the beautiful restored water palace of the Kings of

NUSA LEMBONGAN White sand beaches and reef surf with nice hotels. This small island

th holy bat caves called Goa Lawar.

KUSAMBA Small east coast fishing village famous for salt making, fish satay and

PURA LEMPUYANG

ceremonies and festivals.

BESAKIH Bali’s majestic mother temple located on the slopes of Gunung Agung. This site is host to the island’s most important

and a quiet, relaxing atmosphere.

AMED Remote series of fishing villages with spectacular diving, great snorkelling

TULAMBEN Black, rocky beach with the famous

USS Liberty shipwreck dive site.

GUNUNG LEMPUYANG

the wet season. Do not attempt to scale Agung without a knowledgeable and trustworthy guide.

GUNUNG AGUNG The most sacred mountain on the island and is seen as the “overseer” of Bali. The ascent to the peak is stunning in early dry season morning but is off limits in

NUSA CENINGAN Small sister island to

LAKE BATUR

GIANYAR Regency Capital famous for the best babi guling (roast

GOA GAJAH

PURA BATUR

GUNUNG BATUR

coolest climate on the island.

KINTAMANI This roadside mountain village offers sweeping views over the Batur volcano lake. It has the

TRUNYAN Bali Aga village on the shores of Lake Batur.

BATUR CALDERA High ridge overlooking a vast volcanic panorama.

TANJUNG BENOA A charming mix of star hotels, water

SERANGAN ISLAND

RENON

The central port for the cruising and diving industry.

“millionaire’s row”.

BUKIT Dry, with some of the most spectacular sea views and hotels in Bali. Fast becoming a

best hotels and fresh beachside seafood eating.

PURA LUHUR ULUWATU

NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

JIMBARAN Beautiful curving beach famous for some of Bali’s

ners. Super crowded during high season.

KUTA With a beach stretching from Tuban to Canggu, Kuta is Bali’s prime tourist area with an abundance of shopping, fashion, food, entertainment and great surf for begin-

KEROBOKAN

BEDUGUL

LAKE BRATAN

LAKE BUYAN

PURA BEJI

a great golf course set in the caldera of an extinct volcano.

BEDUGUL Cool mountain town with markets bursting with fresh produce. Known for its scenery, three lakes, the important Ulum Danau Bratan Temple, and

BATU BELIG

PURA TANAH LOT

SEMINYAK Super stylish haven for the well-to-do jet set types.

Home to some of the best bars and restaurants in Bali.

sanctuary is a very popular sunset spot.

LEGIAN Upmarket continuation of the Kuta area and the former “it” area that’s getting older. Traffic jams,

CANGGU Just beyond the far end of the tourist strip, the wild surf, classy hotels and the used-to-be deserted beaches make for a good escape.

but take a guide or, at least, a driver.

PURA LUHUR BATUKARU

GUNUNG BATUKARU

LAKE TAMBLINGAN

TANAH LOT The most famous of the sea temples dotted along Bali’s south coast. This 18th century

and centre of a huge rice growing industry.

DENPASAR Bali’s capital city, and most important. A hectic rush of traffic, shops, one-way streets and Government offices. Lots to discover

be Bali’s royal kingdom.

SINGARAJA Northern capital and first Dutch port in Bali. Used to

LOVINA BEACH The beach to spot dolphins in the bay during the break of dawn.

TABANAN Capital of one of Bali’s most prosperous regions

with views over the whole of southern Bali.

JATILUWUH Amazing panoramas on the slopes of Mount Batukaru

its great surf and spectacular scenery.

MEDEWI Known among the surfing community for

PURA GEDE PRANCAK

GUNUNG MESEHE

GUNUNG MUSI

BALI SEA

GUNUNG MERBUK

GUNUNG SANGLANG

Great diving too.

PEMUTERAN Untouched black sand beaches with a few high-end accommodations.

MENJANGAN ISLAND

Offshore eco resort and great wall diving.

Bali is a province of the Republic of Indonesia governed by an elected Governor and a local parliamentary assembly. The provincial capital is Denpasar where most government offices are located in the Renon area.

Bali is divided into eight regencies: Jembrana, Buleleng, Bangli, Tabanan, Badung, Gianyar, Klungkung and Karangasem. Bali is predominantly Hindu in culture and great respect should be shown for all festivals, events and ceremonies, which will most likely be of religious significance.

Bali is an island with an area of 5700 sq km and a population of around 3.5 million. Most live and work in the increasingly urbanised area of Denpasar linking to Sanur, Kuta, Legian and Jimbaran. Outside those areas , Bali is more of an agricultural island with a system of paddy fields and irrigation established hundreds of years ago.

Balinese society is based on the pura (temple) which is the centre of religious, civil, family and social life with the banjar as the cohesive centre of the community. Visitors are advised to show great respect and patience for all culture and social systems when in Bali.

Java by ferry.

GILIMANUK A small port town to crossover to

Ferry to Java

starling as well as deer civets, wild buffalo and monkeys.

WEST BALI NATIONAL PARK 760 sq km of preserved natural environment. Home of Bali Rothschild

december 2011 february 2012

Jl.Bakung Sari

Jl. Raya Kuta

Made’s Warung

ESC/Sky Garden

Vi Ai Pi

ass N Jl. Byp

Jl. Raya

to Jimbaran & Nusa Dua

Rai gurah

march 2012

Ngurah Rai International Airport

Domestic Domestic Terminal Terminal

Jl. Kediri

BIMC Hospital

Le Jardin

La Plancha

nyu

Obsession

Santa Fe

Galaxy

The Breezes/The Spa

De Ja Vu O-CE-N by Outrigger Zanzibar

Jl.Arjuna/Double Six

Cocoon

The Royal Beach Seminyak

JP’s

Jl.Kerobokan

Jl. Kunti

Word of Mouth

SIP

Jl. Nakula

My Property

Funky Princess

By The Sea

Biasa

Puravida

Dinda Rella

Spa Venus

SIP Sunset Grill

The Amala

Glo Spa

Bali Deli Kanishka Villas The Villas/ Mannekepis Prana Spa Beachgold Warung Made / Milo’s Lily Jean

The Haven

Body & Soul

Pantarei Ryoshi

Paul Ropp

Bamboo Blonde Why Not Shop

Queen’s Tandoor

Sabbatha Miss Milne

Innuendo

Cafe Moka

Jari Menari

Jl.Tangkuban Perahu

Mama San

Kendra Gallery

La Sal

a bim Jl. A

Bahiana Red Room

ana Jl. Laksam

Delicious Onion

Art Cafe

Gado-Gado

Anantara

Seminyak

The Oberoi

Ku De Ta

The Seminyak BeachResort & Spa

The Elysian

Paul’s Place

Sea Circus

Seminyak Square Milo’s Oberoi

Jl. Kayu Jati

Maru

The Legian

Samaya/ Breeze

La Luciola

Sentosa Villas/ Evo

Sarong Taman Merah Spa Biku Living Room

Silq Villas/ Crispy Pata

Villa Air

Metis Rob Peetom

Sardine

minyak

Harris Hotel

Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali

Aston Kuta Jl. W ana Segara

The Rani

Kunyit Bali

Kin Khao Restaurant Queen’s of India

Dijon

Bali Shell Museum

Carrefour

Rip Curl

Essence Spa

Sushi Tei

Bali Bakery

Mall Bali Galeria

k lanti tih Je Jl. Pa Istana Kuta Galeria

l Papaya

Hu’u

nget Jl. Petite

Jemme/Cafe Jemme

Gourmet Cafe W Retreat & Spa Bali Island Villas Potato Head Semara Resort & Spa

Naughty Nuri’s

Jl. Batu Belig

Grocer & Grind

Karma Beach, La Barca

Jl. Raya Se

International International Terminal Terminal

Envy

TUBAN

Ramada Bintang Bali

Hotel Santika Bali

Bali Dynasty / Golden Lotus

Ma Joly

Hard Rock Hotel Hard Rock Cafe

Flapjaks

Kori

Eikon M Bar Go

Villa De Daun

Nero

Legian 101

Rosso Vivo Maccaroni Club Uluwatu Tj’s

Twice Diner

KUTA

Harris Resort

Kama Sutra

Alam Kul Kul The Stones

Red Square

Pullman

ti Jl. Melas

ya Jl. Sriwija

Gabah Kuta Paradiso Hotel Stadium + Flapjaks Blue Fin Kuta Garden Hotel Seafood House Ryoshi hellobali Office Batan Waru Bubba Gump Discovery Mall Waterbom Park Oceans27 Ifiori Ristorante Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel

Legian Beach Hotel

LEGIAN

Padma Resort Bali at Legian a adm Jl. P i Sri Jl. De w

Ramada Resort Camakila

jo on

to Denpasar Jl. Sunset Road

na Jl. Puri Bagus Teru

Jl. N akula

Jl. Im

aB

Kuta

ta i Ku a

Mykonos

De Ja Vu O-CE-N by Outrigger Zanzibar

gian

aP laz

The Junction Press Ban Cafe This is a Love Song

Jl. Double Six

Jl.Drupadi

april 2012 Jl. Le

tik

Chandi Kaizan Cafe Bali Khaima Trattoria

Jl.Mertasari Ultimo Rumours Bamboo Blonde Phoenix Religion Milo’s Bazaar

By The Sea Lily Jean Nico Perez Paul Ropp SKS Magali Pascal Red Carpet Corner Store

82

anta Jl. P

Warung Itali

n

Bale Bali

egia Jl. L ahit Jl. Majap

Jl. Ka r

oad set R

to Sanur

n Jl. Su

Tuban

73

honZEN Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 Flagship Japanese sushi, teppanyaki and Korean grill restaurant.

Il Ristorante Bvlgari Resort Bali Jl. Goa Lempeh, Uluwatu T: 0361 847 1000 Jimbaran Beach Club Jl. Four Seasons, Pantai Muaya, T: 0361 709 959 Ju Ma Na Restaurant & Bar Banyan Tree Ungasan Jalan Melasti, Banjar Kelod, Ungasan T: 0361 300 7000 Kisik Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 Freshly grilled seafood and great views make this a very popular hotel restaurant. Dine on the private jetty for a dinner to remember.

Ko Japanese Restaurant InterContinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu no. 45, Jimbaran T: 0361 701 888 Freshly prepared delicacies at the Sushi Lounge or the theatrics of teppanyaki around a series of interactive counters.

Karma Lounge @ Karma Jimbaran Karma Jimbaran Jl. Bukit Permai, Jimbaran T: 0361 708 800 Izakaya small-plate concept. Live acoustic music, blues, jazz.

Nammos Beach Club Karma Kandara Resort Jl. Villa Kandara Banjar Wijaya T: 0361 848 2200 Nelayan Restaurant Jimbaran Puri Bali Jl. Uluwatu, Jimbaran T: 0361 701 605 Padi Restaurant Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera T: 0361 702 222 Outdoor pavilions floating on lily ponds. Internationally acclaimed authentic Thai cuisine for dinner by Thai chef Nu Suandokmai.

Pepenero Cucina Italiana Temple Hill Studios, Jl. Wanagiri no. 18, Jimbaran T: 0361 704 677 PJ’s Four Seasons Bali at Jimbaran Bay T: 0361 701 010 International selection with an emphasis on fish and seafood specialties. Wood-burning oven pizzas and pastas are also favourites.

Sangkar Restaurant Bvlgari Resort Bali Jl. Goa Lempeh, Uluwatu T: 0361 847 1000

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june 2012

Sami Sami Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 A casual, cliff-side restaurant and bar that offers innovative authentic Italian cuisine in three separate outdoor dining pavilions.

Omang Omang Grill Bali Hyatt, Sanur T: 0361 281 234 The Resort’s seafood and grill restaurant housed in traditional fisherman’s beach house with thatched roof and magnificent views of the garden and pool.

Taman Wantilan Four Seasons Bali at Jimbaran Bay T: 0361 701 010

Pizza Ria Bali Hyatt, Sanur T: 0361 281 234 Located right on the beach, the restaurant is an open-air trattoria serving authentic Italian pizza and pasta dishes.

Tapis Kayumanis Jimbaran Jl. Yoga Perkanti, Jimbaran T: 0361 705 777 The Warung Alila Villas Uluwatu Jl. Belimbing Sari, Tambyak T: 0361 848 2166 Topeng Restaurant & Bar Kupu Kupu Jimbaran Jl. Bukit Permai, Banjar Pesalakan T: 0361 703 342

SANUR Arena Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Sanur T: 0361 287 255 Basilico Hotel Sanur Beach Bali T: 0361 288 011 Café Batu Jimbar Jl. Danau Tamblingan T: 0361 287 374 Great Indonesian food in a classically antique setting.

Café Wantilan Bali Hyatt, Sanur T: 0361 281 234 Balinese and Indonesian favourites, including an impressive rijsttafel.

Cupak Bistro and Grantang Bar Bali Hyatt, Sanur T: 0361 281 234 The restaurant specialises in European bistro-style cuisine and Asian favourites in a relaxed and casual environment.

Flapjaks Jl. Cemara no.27, Sanur T: 0361 287 882 Flashbacks Jl. Danau Tamblingan no. 110 T: 0361 281 682 Gong Restaurant The Gangsa Private Villas T: 0361 270 260 Set within a calming environment, Gong presents an array of local herbs and spices that constitute the flavours of fine Balinese dining.

Kopi Bali House Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai T: 0361 270 990 Mezzanine Puri Santrian, Jl. Cemara no. 35, Sanur T: 0361 270 624 At the crossroads of International cuisine and Eastern fare. Open dining area and bar in the centre of Sanur.

Sector Bar & Reastaurant Jl. Hangtuah no. 58 T: 0361 287 733 Stadium Cafe Jl. Cemara no.27, Sanur T: 0361 287 882 Telaga Naga Bali Hyatt, Sanur T: 0361 281 234 The Village Cucina Italiana Jl. Danau Tamblingan no. 47, Sanur T: 0361 285 025 Exceptionally good Italian fare with amazing value. High quality food at affordable prices.

The Wicked Parrot Jl. Danau Tamblingan no. 47 T: 0361 281 814 Warung Pregina Jl. Danau Tamblingan no. 106 T: 0361 283 353

UBUD Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud T: 0361 975 053 One of the legendary institutions that had a hand in making Ubud one of the world’s favourite town. Has been revamped to become a finedining restaurant that focuses on organic ingredients and produce and the slow food philosophy.

Ayung Terrace Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan Ubud, Gianyar T: 0361 977 577 Quality cuisine with magnificent views over the Ayung River valley.

Bebek Bengil - Dirty Duck Diner Padangtegal, Ubud T: 0361 975 489 One of Ubud’s original landmark restaurants, offers cuisine from both East and West but specialises in delicious crispy duck.

Beduur Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens. Desa Buahan T: 0361 982 700 French Asian fine dining in the midst of the terraced jungle and canopies of Ubud.

Bumbu Bali Jl. Suweta no. 1 T: 0361 974 217 Bunuté Restaurant and Bar Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud T: 0361 972 177 A place to savour good food and good wine.

Cafe Wayan Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud T: 0361 975 447 Casa Luna Jl. Raya Ubud T: 0361 973 283 A smart selection of devilishly tempting desserts and a wide selection of teas and coffees.

Cascades Restaurant Viceroy Bali T: 0361 972 111 Serves contemporary French cuisine with Asian influence.

Clear Café Jl. Hanoman no. 8. Ubud T: 0361 889 4437 Delicious Onion Ubud Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 212 1463 Dining Corner Kayumanis Ubud, Sayan Village T: 0361 972 777 Offers the distinctively exotic flavours and spices of traditional Thai cuisine, while enjoying the singular sights and sounds of the Ayung River valley.

Fly Café Jl. Raya Lungsiakan, Ubud T: 0361 975 440 Offers scrumptious, local, international, and vegetarian cuisine.

Glow Como Shambhala Estate T: 0361 978 888 A contemporary, all-day dining restaurant featuring healthy organic and raw cuisine.

Glove & Stove Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Campuhan T: 0361 362 8795 Indochine The Mansion Resort Hotel & Spa T: 0361 972 616 Introducing the flavour of IndoChina with a fusion of French-style cuisine.

Indus Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 977 684 Sister restaurant to Casa Luna specialising in Indonesian cuisine with new and inventive twists on old themes.

Betel Nut Jl. Raya Ubud T: 0361 971 426

Jazz Cafe Jl. Sukma, Ubud T: 0361 976 594 The first and best live jazz venue on the island. An excellent bistro menu featuring Mediterranean and Asianstyle cuisine and cocktails to die for.

Bridges Jl. Tjampuhan, Ubud T: 0361 970 095

Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Dewi Sita, Monkey Forest T: 0361 977 528

Kemiri Uma Ubud. Jl. Raya Sanggingan T: 0361 972 448 Modern, light and respectful local cuisine that revives traditional Indonesian offerings as well as contemporary interpretations of world flavours.

Lamak Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud T: 0361 974 668 Localista Jl. Suweta no. 5 T: 0361 972 304 Maya Sari Asiatique Maya Ubud Resort & Spa T: 0361 977 888 Minami Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 970 013 Mozaic Restaurant and Lounge Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 975 768 Murni’s Warung Campuhan Bridge, Ubud T: 0361 975 233 Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Raya Sanggigngan, Ubud T: 0361 977 547 Hands down, best pork ribs in town.

This low-key, laid-back, mellow fest should be in every Ubud itinerary. Their devilish martinis and margaritas are the best in Indonesia.

Nomad Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud no.35 T: 0361 977 169 Mr. Nomad and his staff have been welcoming customers to this famous restaurant since 1979. Whether you are looking for coffee, a light snack, lunch or a romantic dinner with selected wine or exotic cocktails, this establishment does not disappoint.

Padi Restaurant Furama Villas & Spa Ubud T: 0361 898 8688 Petulu Restaurant Kamandalu Resort and Spa T: 0361 975 825 Serving Indonesian specialties alongside a variety of Western cuisine.

Plantation Restaurant Alila Ubud T: 0361 975 963 River Café Maya Ubud Resort & Spa T: 0361 977 888 Timbered floors and open kitchen design complement the healthy fusion food and spa cuisine.

Siam Sally Jl. Hanoman - Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 980 777 Home-style Thai cuisine from the entirety of Siam.

Soma Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud T: 0361 971 120

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5/14/12 10:40 AM

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Jimbaran Seafood

InterContinental Bali

Jimbaran Puri Bali

Gourmet Garage

Kayumanis Jimbaran

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Bali Nusa Dua Bali Collection Theatre

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Grand Bali Beach

The Village Cucina Italiana

Street Cafe

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Jl.Segara Ayu

Museum Le Mayeur Sector Bar & Restaurant

Bali Beach Golf Course

Jl.Hang Tuah

Jl. Nyuh Kuning To Tony Raka Gallery

Museum Rudana

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Agung Raka Gallery

Agung Rai Museum of Art

Cafe Arma

Pizza Bagus

Ubud Village Resort

Warung Enak

Monkey Forest

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navigator DINING TUBAN/KUTA/LEGIAN Bella Rosa Italian Restaurant Padma Resort Bali at Legian Jl. Padma no. 1, Legian T: 0361 752 111 Black Canyon Coffee Discovery Shopping Mall Unit MG Jl. Kartika Plaza T: 0361 769 720

Flying Fish Seafood Restaurant O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger Jl. Arjuna no. 88X, Legian T: 0361 737 400 ext. 7526 Fresh seafood, live teppanyaki bar, sushi and sashimi, served indoor and outdoor terrace overlooking the Legian beach.

Gabah Restaurant & Bar Jl. Bakungsari, Kuta T: 0361 751 864 Authentic culinary tastes of local, Indonesian and Asian specialties set in a relaxing, romantic pool view setting.

Gateway of India Jl. Pantai Kuta no. 11 T: 0361 754 463 Golden Lotus Restaurant Bali Dynasty Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban T: 0361 752 403 Offers all the favourites including Peking Duck, spicy Szechuan and classic Cantonese.

H2O Bali Dynasty Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban T: 0361 752 403 Poolside restaurant and bar equipped with a rooftop sunset deck.

La Cucina Italian Restaurant Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 751 067 Maccaroni Club Jl. Legian no. 52, Kuta T: 0361 754 662 Ma Joly Restaurant & Lounge Sandi Phala Hotel Jl. Wana Segara, Tuban T: 0361 753 780 Mama’s Jl. Raya Legian T: 0361 761 151 Nero Bali Mediterranean Restaurant & Lounge Jl. Legian Kelod no. 384, Kuta T: 0361 750 756 Brilliant Mediterranean dishes and a wide selection of imported wines New York Sports Bar Discovery Shopping Mall, Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 769 822 Oceans27 Discovery Esplanade (Beach Front) Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 765 027, 755 522 Ocean Terrace Legian Beach Hotel Jl. Melasti, Legian T: 0361 751 711 Papa’s Limoncello Alam Kul Kul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta T: 0361 755 055

Hard Rock Café Jl. Pantai Kuta T: 0361 755 661

Bluefin Jl Kartika Plaza T: 0361 764 100 Traditional and contemporary Japanese.

Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 766 303

Queen’s of India Bali Dynasty Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban T: 0361 765 988/761 099 Try the Goa prawns or mutton vindaloo, kulfi, the gulab jamun or their special chocolate fudge brownies.

Kin Khao Jl. Kartika Plaza no. 170, Kuta T: 0361 757 808 Authentic Thai restaurant serving aromatic curries, soups and salads.

Rosso Vivo Jl. Pantai Kuta T: 0361 751 961 Stylish yet simple and serves fine Italine bites.

Kori Restaurant & Bar Poppies Lane II, Jl. Legian, Kuta T: 0361 758 605 Serves a wide range of Western and Balinese cuisine complemented by an extensive wine list.

Ryoshi Japanese Restaurant Bali Garden Hotel Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 766 302 Bali’s most recognisable purveyor of authentic Sushi and Sashimi. Outlets in Seminyak, Sanur and Ubud.

Café LemonGrass Jl. Melasti, Kuta T: 0361 369 8652 Envy Jl. Wana Segara no. 33, Tuban T: 0361 752 527 Serves delicious pastas, sumptuous steaks and seafood.

ESC Jl. Legian, Kuta T: 0361 756 362 American style thick hotcakes, brunch, tapas, pizzas and heaps more. Open 24 hours.

june 2012

Flapjaks Jl. Kartika Plaza, Complex Kuta Sidewalk T: 0361 763 100 Think pancakes, home-made gelato and other American delicacies.

Lais Legian Beach Hotel Jl. Melasti, Legian T: 0361 751 711

Bianco Jl. Padma, Legian T: 0361 760 070 The first restaurant on the island that offers a mixture of Italian and Indonesian cuisines served in a colonial setting.

Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 754 028 Menu dedicated to dishes made of shrimp served in a setting decorated with “Forest Gump” paraphernalia.

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Feyloon Jl. Raya Kuta no. 98 T: 0361 766 308

Ifiori Ristorante Italiano Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban T: 0361 750 158

Kunyit Bali Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 759 991 Authentic Balinese cuisine in a relaxed setting. Highly recommended dishes are the crispy fried duck and bebek betutu.

La Plancha Jl. Double Six Beach T: 0878 6141 6310

Salt Restaurant & Lounge Jalan Raya Pantai Banjar Legian Kelod, Kuta T: 0361 766 100 Sands Hotel Santika Premier Beach Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza T: 0361 751 267 Serves an array of tasty tapas. House speciality is the hot stone cooking concept. Wide selection of wines.

Seafood House Complex Kuta Sidewalk Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 763 900 Cantonese style and Chinese Cuisine at its finest.

Segara Asian Grill Discovery Shopping Mall, Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 769 755 Authentic pan-Asian cuisine right on Kuta beachfront. Enjoy Asianinspired cocktail and a stunning romantic sunset view.

Stadium Cafe Jl. Kartika Plaza T: 0361 763 100 Sports cafe with three giant screens and a lot of sports memorabilia.

Menu is also extensive, as is the bar.

Sugarmamas (bake House) Discovery Shopping Mall, Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 769 795 Sushi Tei Jl. Sunset Road, Kuta T: 0361 780 7744 / 7288 / 7455 Higher-end sushi destination complete with sushi train in an oriental minimalist setting. Try their sashimi salad.

Taman Ayun Café & Lounge Padma Resort Bali at Legian Jl. Padma no. 1, Legian T: 0361 752 111 Take Jl. Patih Jelantik T: 0361 759 745 Authentic Japanese cuisine with an innovative menu relying on simple preparation with dynamic flavours by chef Okamoto San. Tenkai Japanese Restaurant Padma Resort Bali at Legian Jl. Padma no. 1, Legian T: 0361 752 111 The Balcony Restaurant Un’s Hotel Jl. Benesari no. 16 T: 0361 757 409 The Tenku Japanese Restaurant Jl. H. Juanda T: 0361 935 1161 Authentic Japanese cuisine in a beachfront setting.

TAO Beach House Restaurant Ramada Resort Camakila Jl. Pura Bagus Teruna, Legian T: 0361 752 877 A beautifully decorated restaurant overlooking the ocean and serving delectable Thai fare.

TJ’s Poppies Lane I, Kuta T: 0361 751 093 Serves tasty Mexican cuisine and margaritas since the dawn of time in its tranquil indoor garden setting.

Warung Made Jl. Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 755 297 Jl. Raya Seminyak, T: 0361 732 130 A Kuta institution. Always jammed to the rafters. Offers a winning combination of good food, value for money and stylish décor.

Zanzibar Jl. Arjuna, Kuta T: 0361 733 529 Great Mediterranean food that will satiate the upper-class beach bum.

66 Corner Jl. Werkudara no. 23 (jalan 66) T: 0361 730 403

SEMINYAK/ KEROBOKAN Art Café JL Sari Dewi 17 T: 0361 736 751 Atrium Restaurant & Bar Semara Resort & Spa Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak T: 0361 847 6661 Bale Bali Jl. Kunti no. 4BB T: 0361 732 731 Chinese food, vegetarian food, and noodles of all kinds.

Bistro Batu Kali Amadea Resort & Villas Jl. Laksmana no. 55 T: 0361 847 8155 Biku Jl. Petitenget 888, Kerobokan T: 0361 857 0888 Set in a 150 year-old-teak-wood joglo (Javanese traditional house) and serves the island’s best tea rituals.

Breeze The Samaya Bali Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak T: 0361 731 149 Beachfront dining at its best!

Hearty Asian/European cuisine complements one of the best beach views in Seminyak in a relaxed but very chic al fresco setting.

Café Bali Jl. Laksmana, Oberoi, Seminyak T: 0361 736 484 Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and cocktails galore at this beautifully decorated colonial-style restaurant.

Cafe Degan Jl. Petitenget No. 9 T: 0361 744 8622 Café Jemme Jl. Raya Petitenget no.28, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 2392 A beautiful restaurant that serves up modern dishes sourced locally.

Cafe Moka Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 731 424 Capris Bar & Restaurant The Royal Beach Seminyak Jl. Camplung Tanduk, Seminyak T: 0361 730 730 Chandi Jl. Laksmana no. 72, Seminyak T: 0361 731 060 Hip restaurant offering excellent pan-Asian fares.

Chat Cafe Jl. Kunti I no. 18 T: 0361 732 303

june 2012

97

Chez Gado Gado Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 99 T: 0361 736 966

JP’s Warung Club Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 6, Seminyak T: 0361 731 622

Cocoon Beach Club Jl. Double Six, Blue Ocean Terrace T: 0361 731 266

Kafe Warisan Jl. Raya Kerobokan no.68 T: 0361 730 710

Cornerstore Jl Oberoi no. 10B T: 0361 730 276

Kaizan Fine Japanese Dining Jl. Kayu Aya no. 33, Kerobokan T: 0361 747 2324

Crispy Pata Jl. Petitenget 27c T: 0361 847 5461 Cool, cozy and delicious. Serves bites from Phillipines, especially the crispy pork leg.

Karma Beach Batu Belig Jl. Batu Belig T: 0361 361 8888

Cubana Bar & Grill Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 12B T: 0361 473 7671 Delicious Onion Corner of Jl. Drupadi and Dyana Pura T: 0813 3789 4243 A down-to-earth eatery serving Asian flavours. Try the crispy roast pork and the pineapple margaritas.

Earth Café Jl. Laksmana no. 99, Oberoi T: 0361 736 645 Organic, macrobiotic, mixed international vegetarian cuisine.

Evo Sentosa Villas and Spa Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget T: 0361 730 333 A casual, energetic Italian-styled Taverna serving Italian and Mediterranean style dishes.

Fire W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak Jl. Petitenget, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 8106 The dramatic kitchen awakens for breakfast, and sizzles at sunset. This inviting grill restaurant features fire cooked prime meats and sea-fresh seafood.

Gateway of India Jl. Camplung Tanduk no. 10, Seminyak T: 0361 732 940 Gourmet Café Jl. Petitenget no. 77A T: 0361 847 5115 Serving an all-day breakfast menu and the opportunity to create your own salads and sandwiches.

Grocer & Grind Jl. Kayu Jati no. 3X, Petitenget T: 0361 730 418 Deli and lounge style restaurant serving high quality home style soul food in a chic surrounding. hu’u Bar & Grill Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak T: 0361 473 6576 Husk Restaurant and Bar The Royal Beach Seminyak Jl. Camplung Tanduk, Seminyak T: 0361 730 730 Java Jive Café Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 469 T: 0361 473 6656

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june 2012

Khaima Moroccan Restaurant Jl. Laksmana, Kerobokan T: 0361 742 3925 Kobe Tei Jl. Petitenget no. 17e T: 0361 733 192 Ku De Ta Jl. Kayu Aya no. 9, Seminyak T: 0361 736 969 Modern cuisine in a minimalist open plan setting where people go to see and be seen.

La Lucciola Jl. Petitenget T: 0361 730 838 This long time beachside favourite offers great Italian food, sunsets, brunch and dinners.

La Sal Jl. Drupadi, Seminyak T: 0361 738 321 Spanish restaurant /lounge serving tapas and home style cooking in a garden courtyard setting.

Le Spot Coffee Shop & Restaurant Bali Deli. Jl. Kunti no. 117X, Seminyak, T: 0361 738 686 A laid-back outdoor terrace that serves a selection of hearty sandwiches, pastas and salads.

Lilin Potato Head Beach Club, Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak T: 0361 473 7979 Serves home-cooked Asian cuisine and fresh tapas in a cosy setting with live seafood tanks on one side.

Lobre Bar & Grill Jl. Drupadi II no. 12 T: 0812 3647 5969 Mama San Jl. Raya Kerobokan no. 135, Br. Taman T: 0361 730 436 Mannekepis Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 2 T: 0361 847 5784 Belgian bar-bistro scene where diners can indulge on fine steaks and a selection of refreshing beers to a backdrop of lively jazz and Blues.

Métis Jl. Petitenget no. 6, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 7888 Chef Nicolas “Doudou” Tourneville brings his legendary talent and culinary artistry to the table with a masterful combination of French Mediterranean cuisine.

MYKONOS Jl. Laksamana no. 52, Oberoi T: 0361 733 253 Authentic Greek culinary gems complete with Greek music.

Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Batubelig no .41 T: 0361 847 6722 OM Beach Lounge Restaurant Jl. Batu Bolong Pantai, Canggu T: 0361 960 4121 Pantarei Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 17 T: 0361 732 567 Potato Head Beach Club Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak T: 0361 473 7979 An all-function beach club with a quirky design, a fine bar and restaurant.

Prana Restaurant The Villas Bali Jl. Kunti no. 117x, Seminyak.

T: 0361 730 840 Organically grown vegetables and salads are presented on the health menu along with special herbal ingredients and cleansing drinks.

Queen’s Tandoor Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 73 T: 0361 732 770 / 771 Rumours Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak T: 0361 738 720 Rush Bamboo Restaurant & Bar The Elysian 18 Jalan Sari Dewi, Seminyak T: 0361 730 999 Sabeen The Haven, Jl. Seminyak no. 500 T: 0361 738 001 Sardine Jl. Petitenget no. 21, Kerobokan T: 0361 4 73 8202 Sarong Jl. Petitenget no. 19X, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 7809 Renowned Australian chef Will Meyrick takes food travellers on an adventure around the flavours of South-East Asia. The menu is designed to encourage sharing and discovering new tastes, Sasa Jl. Kayu Aya no. 78 T: 0361 736 638 SIP Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 730 810 A French bistro in the heart of Seminyak, serving the nicest foie gras and the best selection of wines on the island.

SOS Supper Club Anantara Seminyak Resort Jl. Abimanyu, Seminyak T: 0361 737 773

Starfish Bloo W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak Jl. Petitenget, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 8106 Overlooks the Indian Ocean. Chef Jack Yoss shares a culinary vision inspired from his adventures and life experiences, evident in his unique approach to Pan Asian cuisine.

Studio 5 Café Cure Jl Abimanyu, Seminyak T: 0361 847 5794 Eastern and Western food focusing on health and beauty.

Tapping Shoes Potato Head Beach Club 2nd fl, Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak T: 0361 300 7979 Modern French fine dining in intimate ambiance that just oozes stylish romance.

The French Kitchen Jl. Petitenget no. 2X T: 0361 847 5394 The Junction Jl. Kayu Aya/Jl. Kayu Putih T: 0361 735 610 The Living Room Jl. Oberoi, Petitenget, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 5735 The Restaurant The Legian Bali. Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak T: 0361 730 622 Contemporary world cuisine highlighting flavours from Japan, Thailand, India, Indonesia, Europe and the USA. The Santan Restaurant The Seminyak Beach-Resort & Spa T: 0361 730 814 Modern dining pavilions surrounded by waterways and tropical greenery.

Innovative dishes bursting with flavour are created from the freshest ingredients to tantalise the tastebuds.

Wild Orchid Anantara Seminyak Resort Jl. Abimanyu, Seminyak T: 0361 737 773 Imaginative cooking from Thailand’s diverse culinary regions combining fresh vegetables, traditional herbs and exotic spices.

Word of Mouth Kunti Arcade Shop 10 Jl. Kunti no. 9 T: 0361 847 5797 Zuittion / Cafe Zucchini Jl. Kayu Aya no. 49 T: 0361 736 633

NUSA DUA / TANJUNG BENOA Allspice Restaurant & Bar The Royal Santrian. Jl. Pratama T: 0361 778 181 Contemporary cuisine meets cutting-edge design in this restaurant-cum-martini bar.

Specialises in Thai, teppan, and sushi.

Arwana The Laguna Resort & Spa. Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 327 This beachfront dining restaurant and oyster bar features a choice of Continental and Asian creative dishes as well as ultra fresh and live seafood.

Banyubiru The Laguna Resort & Spa. Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 327 Cuisine from around the world overlooking a majestic lagoon.

Boneka St. Regis Bali Resort. Nusa Dua T: 0361 847 8111 A breakfast and brunch experience with arguably the most decadent early doors’ dishes being served on the island.

Trattoria Cucina Italiana Jl. Laksmana, Oberoi T: 0361 737 082

Bumbu Bali Jl. Pratama, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 771 256

Ultimo Italian Restaurant Jl. Laksmana no. 104X, Seminyak T: 0361 738 720 / 21

By the C Bar & Restaurant Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa Jl. Pratama no. 68X T: 0361 773 577

Vivai Seminyak Square, Jl. Kayu Aya no. 1 T: 0361 738 016 Wah Wah Gourmet Burger Winebar Jl. Laksmana no. 11A T: 0361 736 585

de Opera Beach Club The Bay, BTDC Nusa Dua T: 0361 894 8168, 894 8178 Eight Degrees South Conrad Bali, Jl. Pratama Raya no. 168 T: 0361 778 788

Warung Eropa Jl. Petitenget 9D, Kerobokan T: 0361 747 1771 Serves one of the tastiest crispy duck on the island.

Faces The Balé Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: 0361 775 111

Warung Italia Jl. Kunti no. 2 T: 0361 737 437 Italian food served up warung-style.

Giorgio Restaurant Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa Jl. Pratama no. 68X T: 0361 773 577 Hamabe Japanese Restaurant The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 906 Features dining choices from sushi bars to teppanyaki to private tatami rooms.

Ikan Restaurant & Bar The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 906 Seafood, Balinese specialties and Western cuisine in a casual oceanfront setting.

Kayuputi St. Regis Bali Resort. Nusa Dua T: 0361 847 8111 Chef Oscar Perez integrates Asian flavours and classic Western influences, offering Wagyu beef from Australia, Kobe from Japan, seafood from local waters as well as imported specialties.

Maguro Asian Bistro Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa T: 0361 771 210 Piasan Kayumanis Nusa Dua T: 0361 770 777 A chic fine dining restaurant, capturing the ritual of typical Italian home dining.

Raja’s Balinese Restaurant Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa T: 0361 771 210 Raja’s cuisine is seriously Balinese fare, unmodified. Although it serves original Balinese food, Raja’s is certified as a halal restaurant.

RIN Conrad Bali, Jl. Pratama Raya, no. 168 T: 0361 778 788 Contemporary Asian flavours, embraces the five basic tastes of sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami.

SAKALA Jl. Pratama no. 88, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 774 499 Refined and alluring modern classic dining with prime meats and fresh catch in smart décor, overlooking the pool and sea with over 400 sublime wines and fabulous cocktails. Get a table at the seaside terrace for digestifs.

Salsa Verde Grand Hyatt Bali, Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 234 Poolside Italian restaurant serving a selection of antipasti, pizzas and seafood.

Suku Conrad Bali. Jl. Pratama Raya no. 168, T: 0361 778 788 Offers cuisine using Balinese and Indonesian flavours all enjoyed al fresco with panoramic views over the Indian Ocean.

Tetaring Kayumanis Nusa Dua T: 0361 770 777 Signature restaurant of Kayumanis featuring an exciting fusion of Western and South-East Asian specialties.

The Italian Restaurant Amanusa Nusa Dua T: 0361 772 333 Try the daily changing Antipasto selection and super-fresh seafood alongside a selection of rare wines.

The Restaurant & Wine Cellar The Royal Santrian. Jl. Pratama T: 0361 778 181 The resort’s pool and sea view restaurant serving authentic Italian and delectable Japanese. A wide selection of International wines are also available.

The Shore Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: 0361 773 377 Beachfront eatery with contemporary design. Great for breakfast and sunset dining.

The Tao Bali Jl. Pratama no. 96, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 772 902 Experience a sensuous culinary journey through the cuisines of South-East Asia.

The Terrace Amanusa Nusa Dua T: 0361 772 333 The Veranda The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 906

JIMBARAN/ULUWATU Alcedo Restaurant Gending Kedis Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera no. 100Y T: 0361 708 906 Serving Indonesian and international fare set in a quiet spot to savour your sunset and romantic rendezvous.

Asam Garam Restaurant Villa Balquisse Jl. Jalan Uluwatu no. 18X T: 0361 701 695

Queen's Rev3.indd 1

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Balique Jl. Uluwatu no. 39, Jimbaran T: 0361 704 945 Chocolate Cafe Jimbaran Corner Jl. Bukit Permai, Banjar Pesalakan T: 0361 704663 Dava Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera T: 0361 702 222 This chic 80-seat restaurant accentuates the spectacular Indian Ocean view. Eclectic fusion cuisine at its best.

Di Mare Karma Kandara Resort Jl. Villa Kandara Banjar Wijaya T: 0361 848 2200 Modern Mediterranean cuisine served in a comfortably chic atmosphere.

Finn’s Beach Club Semara Luxury Villa Resort Uluwatu Jalan Pantai Selatan Gau, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan T: 0361 848 2111 Grocer & Grind Jl. Bukit Permai, Jimbaran Corner T: 0361 704 335

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Terazo Jl. Suweta, Ubud T: 0361 978 941 A favourite Ubud bistro of colonial modern style with great Mediterranean and Asian cuisine. Fish specials rotate daily to ensure freshness.

The Three Monkeys Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud T: 0361 975 554 Warung Babi Guling Ibu Oka Jl. Suweta, Ubud T: 0361 976 345, 207 7490 Babi Guling (roast suckling pig) at its best. Authentic and very informal, it is popular with those in the know and almost mandatory in a visit to Ubud.

Warung Enak Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 972 911 Warung Sopa Jl. Sugriwa no. 36 T: 0361 276 589

Red Square Bali Pullman Legian Nirwana T: 0361 767 540 Bali’s first vodka bar located right in front of Kuta beach. Expect fun madness.

Sky Garden Jl. Legian, Kuta T: 0361 756 362 Casts a formidable gaze over the rooftops of Legian with a slightly more refined feel to the interior and the crowds it attracts.

Stadium Cafe Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 763 100 A magnet for sports fans offering large screens and all the action.

The Bounty Club Jl. Legian, Kuta T: 0361 754 040

TUBAN/KUTA/LEGIAN

Twice Bar Poppies 2 T: 0813 2107 4129 Sweet underground bar for those seeking maximum rock ‘n’ roll culture. Live bands play everything from rockabilly to punk to metal to psychobilly.

Boshe Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 89X, Tuban T: 0361 360 3980

SEMINYAK/ KEROBOKAN

BARS & CLUBS

Centrestage Hard Rock Hotel T: 0361 761 869 Eikon Jl. Legian No.178 Kuta Bali T: 0361 750 701 Gracie Kelly’s Bali Dynasty Resort T: 0361 752 403 Bali’s only authentic Irish pub. Live music every night playing Irish folk and just about everything else.

Ice Bar W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak T: 0361 473 8106 Artisan cheeses, imported and housemade chacuterie with more than 40 selections of wines to pair. Mingle with fellow jetsetter and be partof the sensual transition into night over fresh iced cocktails and champagne.

Infamy @ The Stones Jalan Raya Pantai Banjar Legian Kelod T: 0361 766 100 M Bar Go Jl. Legian T: 0361 756 280 Huge downstairs dance floor playing R&B and Hip Hop to flocking Kuta poseurs. Upstairs on the veranda is Funky House sets.

Musro Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, Jl. Kartika Plaza T: 0361 764 582 Oceans 27 Discovery Esplanade (Beach Front) Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 765 027, 755 522 Beachfront club and lounge that features some of the hippest and most happening events.

Bahiana Jl. Dhyana Pura, Seminyak T: 0361 738 662 Latino booty shaking rhythms to get the libido fully charged before a trip to the bigger clubs.

Bali Joe’s Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 8, Seminyak T: 0813 6932 3935 Cocoon Beach Club Jl. Double Six, Blue Ocean Terrace T: 0361 731 266 A posh, all-white, beach club that turns into a night club and opens until the wee hours of the night.

Divine Wonderland Jl. Laksmana T: 0361 730 759 A tapas bar-cum-lounge that is inspired by a doll house. It is regal Victorian fantasy brought to life. hu’u Bar & Grill Jl. Petitenget, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 6576 Ku De Ta Jl Kayu Aya no. 9, Seminyak T: 0361 736 969 Sunset, lounge chairs, almost any drink imaginable, impeccable service and a sinfully trendy crowd.

Obsession Jl. Dhyana Pura, Seminyak T: 0361 730 269 Home of the famous Saharadja Band.

It’s the place where you can hear the sound of the best live bands in Bali.

Maria Magdalena Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 6 T: 0361 823 0298 Mint Bar Jl. Petitenget no. 919 T: 0361 473 2884

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Mixwell Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 6, Seminyak T: 0361 736 846 Very popular for the boys who don’t mind not seeing a girl in a bar.

Red Carpet Champagne Bar Jl. Laksmana no. 42C, Seminyak T: 0361 737 889 Holds the largest champagne election in Bali. Try the lychee martini, possibly the best on the island.

SANTA FE Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 11A T: 0361 731 147 Sea Circus Jl. Laksmana no.22 T: 0361 738 667 Pre-drinks lounge that serves tapas and seafood snacks in rather posh and colourful setting. The cocktails are also quite good.

SOS Supper Club Anantara Seminyak Resort T: 0361 737 773 The perfect spot to chill out while viewing the sun go down.

W Lounge W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak T: 0361 473 8106 Share some gossip, catch up for an afternoon tea or enjoy a cool Martini, as the bold and the beautiful catwalk their way across the room!

WooBar W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak T: 0361 473 8106 Eat, drink, flirt and play here - a three-stprey epicentre of party alfresco fin in the sun - or at sunset.

Sightsee and sip from the sky deck atop the club and boogie to international DJs spinning mixes.

NUSA DUA/TANJUNG BENOA/JIMBARAN/ ULUWATU Cascade Garden Lounge & Bar The Laguna Resort & Spa. Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 327 Outdoor terrace setting serving classic drinks next to cascading waterfalls.

EAST Conrad Bali T: 0361 778 788 Jimbaran Beach Club Jl. Four Seasons, Pantai Muaya, T: 0361 709 959 Klapa Jl. New Kuta Beach, Pecatu Indah Resort T: 0361 848 4581 Rock Bar Ayana Resort and Spa T: 0361 702 222 Accessed via inclinator, this cliff-top bar offers extreme architecture and a 360-degree view of the island of the gods. Music includes chill out sunsets with live unplugged bands.

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SAKALA Jl. Pratama no. 88, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 774 499 Picture-perfect setting to watch sunset to sunrise with DJ lounge sounds. Radiant glow bar with sultry martini. Sip sundowner at the sea terrace and head upstairs for starlit dancing.

SANUR Blue Eyes Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no. 888, Sanur T: 0361 780 7478 Piano Bar Bali Hyatt, Sanur T: 0361 281 234

Grocer and Grind Jl. Kayu Jati no. 3X, Petitenget T: 0361 737 321 Jimbaran Corner, Jl. Bukit Permai T: 0361 704 335 Papaya Jl. Mertanadi T: 0361 759 222 A great place to shop for sushi and maki rolls made fresh daily on the premises.

The Pantry Jl. Danau Tamblingan T: 0361 281 008

BEST IN SPA

Jiwa Spa Conrad Bali T: 0361 778 788

Samatha Spa Hotel Santika Premiere Beach Resort T: 0361 751 267

Karma Spa Karma Kandara T: 0361 848 2200

Saren Tandeg Spa The Adnyana Villas Jl. Pantai Berawa, Canggu T: 0361 857 9888

Kayumanis Spa at Ubud Sayan Village, Ubud T: 0361 972 777 Khayangan Spa The Seminyak Beach-Resort & Spa T: 0361730 814 Kirana Spa Desa Kedewatan, Ubud T: 0361 976 333

Spa Air Villa Air Bali Jl. Lebak Sari, Petitenget T: 0361 737 378 Spa Furama Furama Villas & Spa Ubud Jl. Raya Mambal, Badung, Ubud T: 0361 898 8688 Spa Hati Jl. Raya Andong no.14, Peliatan, Ubud T: 0361 977 578

The Cat and Fiddle Jl. Cemara no. 36, Sanur T: 0361 282 218

Amo Spa Jl. Petitenget 100X, Seminyak T: 0361 275 3337

Kiss Bali Kiss Villas Jl. Cendrawasih no. 99x, Petitenget T: 0361 847 6670

UBUD

Anantara Spa Anantara Seminyak Resort T: 0361 737 773

Komaneka Spa Komaneka at Bisma T: 0361 971 933

Away Spa W Retreat % Spa Bali-Seminyak T: 0361 738 106

Kriya Spa Grand Hyatt Bali, Nusa Dua T: 0361 778 884

Spa Uluwatu InterContinental Resort Bali Jl. Uluwatu no. 45, Jimbaran T: 0361 701 888

Bamboo Spa by L’Occitane Kupu Kupu Jimbaran T: 0361 703 342

Lagoon Spa The Laguna Resort & Spa Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 327

Spa Venus Villa Kubu Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 33F, Gg. Plawa T: 0361 731 129

Lluvia Spa Jl. Sunset Road no. 28, Seminyak T: 0361 847 5903, 215 6688

Sukha Spa Risata Bali Resort & Spa Jl. Jenggala, Tuban, Kuta T: 0361 753 340

Jazz Cafe Jl. Sukma no. 2, Tebesaya, Ubud T: 0361 976 594 Cool Jazz at Ubud’s hottest nightspot. Live bands play Jazz, Blues, Latin, Funk and Soul to expatriates and visiting travellers.

Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 977 547 Ozigo Bar Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 980 358

DELIS & BAKERIES Bali Buddha Kerobokan T: 0361 844 5936 All your environmentally friendly needs can be catered including imported natural remedies, organic vegetables, healthy breakfasts, lunches and dinners.

Bali Bakery Jl. Raya Kuta 65 T: 0361 755 149 Seminyak Square, Jl. Laksmana T: 0361 738 033 Purveyor of all things bread and pastry, expanded into restaurant serving a vast variety of food.

Bali Deli Jl. Kunti, Seminyak T: 0361 738 686 Specialising in the finest French imports and other international luxury gourmet items.

Dijon Jl. Setiabudi, Kuta T: 0361 759 636 A great deli selling imported cold cuts, pickles, cheeses and much more. Home or villa delivery.

Gourmet Garage Jl. Batas Kangin no. 2, Jimbaran T: 0361 705 848 Contender for the best ice cream on the island and an excellent array of imported cheeses.

Bodyworks Jl. Kayu Jati no. 2, Petitenget T: 0361 733 317, 735 058 Como Shambhala Spa Como Shambala Estate, Bengawan Giri, Ubud, Gianyar T: 0361 978 888

Luxé Lounge Spa Sentosa Private Villas and Spa T: 0361 730 333

DaLa Spa Villa De Daun Jl. Raya Legian, Kuta T: 0361 756 276

Malkoha Spa Gending Kedis Luxury Villa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T: 0361 708 906

Equilibre Jl. Laksmana 117X, Seminyak T: 0361 887 0111

M.E.N.G Jl. Petitenget no. 147X T: 0361 733 886

Fabulously Feet Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no. 280B, Sanur T: 0361 283 937

Nusa Dua Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa T: 0361 771 210

Fivelements, Puri Ahimsa Banjar Baturning, Mambal T: 0361 469 206

O-CE-N Spa O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger Jl. Arjuna 88X, Legian T: 0361 737 400

Glo Day Spa Seminyak Kunti Plaza, Jl. Kunti no. 199, Seminyak T: 0361 738 689 Glo Day Spa & Salon Sanur Gopa Town Centre, Jl. Danau Poso 57 T: 0361 282 826 H’Spa Harris Resort Kuta Beach T: 0361 753 868 Jari Menari Jl. Raya Basangkasa no. 47, Seminyak T: 0361 736 740 JazB Beauty Space Seminyak Square 2nd fl unit A Jl. Laksmana T: 0361 738 882

Paul’s Place Jl. Laksmana no. 18B T: 0361 736 910 Prana Spa The Villas Bali Jl. Kunti 118x, Seminyak.

T: 0361 730 840 Rei Wellness Spa Jl. Griya Anyar Br. Kajeng Pemogan Denpasar T: 0361 847 3320 Remede Spa St. Regis Bali Resort Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua T: 0361 847 8111 Rob Peetom Jl. Raya Petitenget T: 0361 738 363

Spa-Pad The Elysian Private Villas Jl. Sari Dewi no.18, Seminyak T: 0361 730 999

Talaga Spa Graha Ganesa Blok A,B,C Jl. Dewi Sri Lc 16, Sunset Road T: 0361 873 3831 Taman Air Spa Jl. Sunset Road no. 88, Seminyak T: 0361 894 7300-2 Taman Merah Spa Jl. Raya Petitenget 469, Seminyak T: 0361 473 6656 Tea Tree Spa Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali Jl. Wana Segara 33, Tuban T: 0361 755 577 Thalasso Spa Grand Mirage Resort Jl. Pratama no.74, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 773 883 Thermes Marins Bali Spa Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 Theta Spa Ramada Bintang Bali Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 755 726 The Ayur Spa The Kayana Jl. Raya Petitenget T: 0361 847 6628 The Edge Spa The Edge Villas Jl. Pura Goa Lempeh Banjar Dinas Kangin, Pecatu, Uluwatu T: 0361 847 0700

The Mandara Spa Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: 0361 773 377 The Private Spa Wellness Center Jl. Dhyana Pura no.4x, Seminyak T: 0361 731 648 The Spa and Wellness Studio The Amala Jl. Kunti no. 108, Seminyak T: 0361 738 866 The Spa at Kamandalu Kamandalu Resort & Spa Jl. Tegallalang, Banjar Nagi, Ubud T: 0361 975 825 The Spa at Maya Maya Ubud Resort and Spa Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Ubud T: 0361 977 888 The Spa at The Chedi Club Jl. Goa Gajah, Gianyar, Ubud T: 0361 975 685 The Spa at The Samaya The Samaya Bali Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak T: 0361 731 149 The Spa Villas Four Seasons Bali at Sayan Sayan, Ubud, Gianyar T: 0361 977 577 The Spa @ The Legian The Legian Bali Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak T: 0361 730 622

RETAIL THERAPY Aphrodite Jl. Laksmana no. 38B T: 0361 734 929 Atlas South Sea Pearl Jalan Bypass Ngurah Rai, Sanur T: 0361 284 455 Bamboo Blonde Jl. Laksmana no. 61. T: 0361 780 5919 Jl. Ry Seminyak no.63. T: 0361 210 7559 Jl. Raya Legian no. 154, T: 0361 751 667 Discovery Mall, Bali Collection Batik Keris Discovery Shopping Mall 1st fl T: 0361 769 756/717 Jl. Raya Legian 133, Kuta T: 0361 752 164 Bandara Ngurah Rai Domestic, T: 0361 755 616 International I, T: 0361 935 4796 International II, T: 0361 936 1108 Beachgold Jl. Laksmana no.54. T: 0361 737 549 Jl. Raya Semnyak no. 56A Bel Kazan Jl. Raya Basangkasa no. 11, Seminyak T: 0361 749 2644 Biasa Jl. Ry Seminyak no. 36. T: 0361 730 308 Jl. Raya Sanggingan Ubud T: 0361 887 8002

Body & Soul Legian T: 0361 767 169 Seminyak T: 0361 733 564 Kuta Square T: 0361 755 227 Discovery Mall T: 0361 769 751 Aimed at a younger market, you will find up-to-the minute styles that are a magnet for Bali’s young beach bodies. The accessories are fabulous and there is always something new.

Body & Soul Bambini Seminyak T: 0361 733 564 Legian T: 0361 758 385 Discovery Mal, T: 0361 769 751 Bong’s Jl. Monkey Forest no. 999, Ubud T: 0361 808 4168 Jl. Ry Seminyak no.42A. T: 0361 730 580

By The Sea Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 847 5745 Jl. Raya Basangkasa T: 0361 730 510 Jl. Laksmana, Oberoi T: 0361 732 198 Dandelion Jl. Raya Basangkasa no. 28 T: 0361 730 375 Deus Ex Machina Jl. Batu Mejan no. 8, Canggu T: 0361 368 3395 Jl. Kayu Aya no. 32B, Seminyak T: 0361 735 047 Dinda Rella Jl. Laksmana no. 45 T: 0361 736 953 Jl. Ry Seminyak no. 44 T: 0361 734 228 Farah Khan W Retreat & Spa Bali. T: 0361 473 1789 The Legian Bali. T: 0361 730 622 Innuendo Jl. Raya Seminyak 75H, T: 0361 730 790 Jemme Jl. Raya Petitenget 125 T: 0361 473 3508 A gallery of classic fine jewellery and contemporary designs using the best in silver, gold, and platinum materials. A stunning treasure chest of jewellery collections, from Bali and around the world. k&i Jl. Basangkasa 44 T: 0361 737 025 Jl. Laksmana 18 T: 0361 736 477 Ku De Ta Boutique Jl. Laksmana no. 9, Seminyak T: 0361 736 969 Lily Jean Jl. Oberoi, Seminyak T: 0361 847 5872 Lucy’s Batik Jl. Basangkasa 88X T: 0361 795 1275 A unique Batik shop introducing the rich variety of batik, including modern and traditional designs, from various parts of Indonesia.

Magali Pascal Jl. Kayu Aya no. 177X, T: 0361 736 147 Market Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 55 T: 0361 730 586

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Maru Jl. Kayu Aya no. 7H, T: 0361 734 102 Milo’s Oberoi - Jl. Laksmana no. 992 T: 0361 822 2008/730 410 Made’s Warung - Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 731 689 Milo’s Bazaar - Jl. Laksmana no.38 T: 0361 735 551 One of the original overseas designers to discover the artistry of Balinese batik workers and translate it into Western styling.

Namu Jl. Petitenget no. 234x T: 0361 279 7524 Nico Nico Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 13 T: 0361 730 805 Nico Perez Jl. Laksmana no. 79, Seminyak T: 0361 738 655 Niluh Djelantik Jl. Ry Kerobokan 144 T: 0361 744 6068, 733 074 Optik Melawai Mal Discovery GF, T: 0361 769 766 Kuta Square Blok D no. 21, T: 0361 755 097 Galeria Mal Bali Blok 1B no. 47, T: 0361 767 047 Bali Collection Nusa Dua T: 0361 772 285 Jl. Gatot Subroto no. 314 T: 0361 425 345 Komp. Diponegoro Megah A no. 4 T: 0361 221 972 Komp. Ruko Udayana, Jl. P.B. Sudirman kav 21B T: 0361 254 282 Paul’s Place Boutique Jl. Laksmana Oberoi T: 0361 736 910 Jl. Petitenget 147X T: 0361 473 3886 Contemporary ethnic collection with a strong Asian influence mostly in rayon and cotton. Alternative soft clothing in sizes from regular to XXXL. Home furnishings, fantastic selected arts and crafts specialising in bronze artefacts, statues, Buddhas and dragons.

Paul Ropp Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak T: 0361 735 613 Jl. Raya Seminyak, T: 0361 734 208 Kerobokan T: 0361 731 002 Jimbaran T: 0361 701 202 Ubud T: 0361 974 655 Colourful fashion using hand-woven materials. Watch out for the amazing sales twice annually, where the real bargains can be had.

Quarzia Boutique Jl. Oberoi 3A, Seminyak T: 0361 736 644

Cempaka Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no. 8 T: 0361 766 555, 747 4393

Alila Living Gallery Alila, Ubud T: 0361 975 963

Religion Jl. Laksmana, Basangkasa T: 0361 731 916

deLighting Gallery Jl. Laksmana no. 20/14c T: 0361 738 704 Jl. Batu Culung 1, Kerobokan T: 0361 742 0339

Biasa Artspace Jl. Seminyak no.34 T: 0361 847 5766 Open Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 1-6pm, and Sun by appointment

Didu All Weather Wicker Boulevard Sunset Road, Kuta T: 0361 894 7530, 847 5651

Danes Art Veranda Jl. Hayam Wuruk 159, Denpasar T: 0361 242 659, 244 096 Open daily 10am-6pm

Renegade Republic Jl. Raya Legian 480 T: 0361 808 7385 Rip Curl Jl. Legian T: 0361 765 889 Sabbatha Jl. Raya Seminyak 97 Blok K T: 0361 731 756 sks (simplekonsepstore) Jl. Lesmana 40, Seminyak T: 0361 730 393 Skin Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 733 588 Studio 5 Lifestyle Boutique Jl. Dhyana Pura T: 0361 847 5794 The Bali Pearl Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, T: 0361 765 656 This is a Love Song Jl. Laksmana no. 3 T: 0361 913 0713 Miss Milne Jl. Seminyak Raya Shop 3/73 T: 0361 732 775 Uc Silver Jl. Raya Batubulan T: 0361 461511 Offers the latest design in contemporary, South-West, and Balinese sterling silver jewellery.

Uluwatu Jl. Legian, Legian T: 0361 751 933 Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta T: 0361 755 342 Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur T: 0361 288 037 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud T: 0361 977 557 Uma and Leopold Jl. Kunti 8X T: 0361 733 670 Jl. Raya Seminyak 44B T: 0361 731 348 Jl. Oberoi 77X T: 0361 737 697 W The Store W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak Jl. Petitenget, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 8106 Stylish items ranging from pieces out of W’s own Global Glam collection, or exotic gifts sourced from around the world.

Duo Jl. Bypass Sunset Road, Seminyak T: 0361 847 5976/77 Haveli Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 737 160 Hishem Furniture Jl. Sunset Road 86C, Kuta T: 0361 737 441 Jenggala Jl. Uluwatu II, Jimbaran T: 0361 703 311

Gaya Art Space Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud T: 0361 979 252 Open daily 9.30am-11pm Genta Fine Art Gallery Jl. Lodtunduh no. 1, Ubud T: 0361 978 272 Open daily 9am-5pm

Lio Collection Jl. Raya Kerobokan no. 2 T: 0361 780 0942

Griya Santrian Gallery Jl. Danau Tamblingan 47, Sanur T: 0361 288 181

Panonpoe Jl. Kayu Aya 150, Seminyak T: 0361 736 714

Hanna Artspace Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 978 216

Santai Outdoor & Indoor Beanbags Jl. Sunset Road no.89 T: 0361 847 5750

Kendra Gallery Uma Sapna Villa Jl. Drupadi no. 88B, Seminyak T: 0361 736 628

sks (simplekonsepstore) Jl. Laksmana 40, Seminyak T: 0361 730 393 Tarita Furniture Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no. 910 T: 0361 780 3441 Word of Mouth Kunti Arcade Shop 10 Jl. Kunti no. 9 T: 0361 847 5797 A contemporary furniture store where you can buy everything, including the decorations in their toilets.

Vinoti Living Mall Bali Galeria T: 0361 752 723 Seminyak Square T: 0361 732 202 Warisan Casa Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran T: 0361 701 081 Warisan Living Jl. Raya Kerobokan no. 68 T: 0361 730 048

Press Ban Café Jl. Laksmana no. 50xx T: 0361 730 486

HOMEWARES & FURNITURE

GALLERIES & MUSEUMS

Pura Vida Kuta Square, T: 0361 756 296 Jl. Raya Seminyak, T: 0361 847 5860 Jl. Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 766 627 Jl. Raya Basangkasa, T: 0361 732 582

Carlo Showroom Jl. Danau Poso 22, Sanur T: 0361 285 211

Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 976 659 Open daily 9am-6pm

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Ganesha Gallery Four Seasons Hotel Jimbaran T: 0361 701 010 Open daily 9am-6pm

Leolle Jl. Raya Kerobokan T: 0361 732 234

Why Not Shop Jl. Seminyak Raya no.63 T: 0361 847 5790

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Esok Lusa Gallery Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 735 262

Komaneka Fine Art Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud T: 0361 976 090 Museum Antonio Blanco Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud T: 0361 975 502 Open daily 9am-5pm Museum Le Mayeur Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur T: 0361 286 201 Open daily 8am-1.30pm Museum Neka Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud T: 0361 975 074 Open daily 9am-5pm Museum Pasifika Kawasan Pariwisata BTDC Block P, Nusa Dua T: 0361 774 - 935 Open daily 10am-6pm Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud Gianyar T: 0361 975 136 Open daily 9am-5pm Museum Rudana Jl. Cok Rai Pudak no. 44, Ubud T: 0361 975 779 Tony Raka Fine Art Gallery Jl. Raya Mas no. 86, Ubud T: 0361 781 6785

Saya Gallery Jl. Laksmana 12X T: 0361 730 858 Jl. Petitenget no. 88c T: 0361 473 8552 Seniwati Gallery Jl. Sriwidari 2B, Ubud T: 0361 975 485 Taksu Gallery W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak T: 0361 473 8106 The Gallery Jl. Sunset Road no. 89, Seminyak T: 0361 731 738 Widuri & Sena Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 978 008

RECREATION ADVENTURE A J Hackett Jl. Double Six T: 0361 731144 A True Balinese Experience Jl. Diponegoro 150 B-12, Denpasar T: 0361 239 440 Bali Adventure Tours Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran T: 0361 721 480 Bali Learn to Surf Hard Rock Hotel Jl. Pantai, Kuta T: 0361 792 2922 Bali Quad Discovery Tours Jl. Wirasatya VI no. 4x, Denpasar T: 0361 720 766, 808 0305 Bali Treetop Adventure Park Kebun Raya Eka Karya T: 0361 852 0680 Dive Bali Jl. Danau Tamblingan X No. 31, Sanur T: 0361 774504 Nusa Dua Dive Centre Jl. Pratama 37 XX, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 774 711 Paddy Adventure ATV Perum Kuta Permai, Blok IV/1 Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Tuban T: 0361 759 048 Pelangi Bali Mountain Cycling Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud T: 0361 975 992 SeeBali Adventures Jl. Jayagiri XIX no. 2, Denpasar T: 0361 794 9693 Sobek Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 100X Simpang Siur T: 0361 287 059

BODY AND SOUL Art of Body Jl. Merta Sari, Gg Pribadi no. 1 Seminyak T: 0361 877 4094

Bikram Yoga Istana Kuta Galleria Blk VL no. 12 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta T: 0361 769 040 Desa Seni Jl. Subak Sari 13, Pantai Berawa, Canggu T: 0361 844 6392 Manik Organik Yoga Jl. Danau Tamblingan 85, Sanur T: 0361 855 3380 Motion Fitness Jl. Sri Rama no. 72 T: 0361 762 385 Olop’s Studio Jl. Drupadi 1 no. 7 T: 0361 733 403 Sunset Fitness Jl. Sunset Road no. 1828, Seminyak T: 0361 888 7026 Sunset Pilates Jl. Dewi Sri no.98, Kuta T: 0361 791 4127 Yoga Barn Jl Pengosekan, Padang Tegal, Ubud T: 0361 971 236

LEISURE Air Bali Dewa Ruci Building Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai no. 2, Kuta T: 0361 207 7788 Bali Beach Golf Course Jl. Hangtuah No 58, Sanur T: 0361 287 733

Quicksilver Cruise Jl. Kerta Dalem no. 96, Denpasar T: 0361 721 521 Waka Land Cruises Jl Padang Kartika 5 X Padang Sambian T: 0361 426 972 Waterbom Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 755 676 Bali’s premiere water park offers a vast array of slides, games, food, and a lazy river.

PARKS Bali Bird Park Jl. Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir Singapadu, Batubulan T: 0361 299 352 Bali Elephant Park Denpasar T: 0361 256 780 Bali Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro, Tegallalang T: 0361 721 480 Bali Safari & Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra km 19,8, Gianyar T: 0361 950 000 Bali Zoo Jl Raya Singapadu T: 0361 294 357 Rimba Reptile Park Jl. Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir, Singapadu, Batubulan T: 0361 299 344

Bali Golf & Country Club Kawasan Wisata Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 791 Bali Handara Kosaido Country Club Bedugul T: 0362 342 2646 Bali Hai Cruises Benoa Harbour T: 0361 720 331 Bali Horse Riding Jl. Diponegoro 150 B-12, Denpasar T: 0361 238 759 Bali Nusa Dua Theatre Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua T: 0361 770 197 Club Aqua Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai no.5 T: 0361 281 408 Fishing Bali Taman Griya Nusa Dua, Jl. Danau Tamblingan X no. 31 T: 0361 774 504 New Kuta Golf Kawasan Pecatu Indah Resort Jl. Raya Uluwatu Pecatu, Jimbaran T: 0361 848 1333 Nirwana Golf Club Jl. Raya Tanah Lot, Kediri T: 0361 815 960 Odyssey Submarine Bali Jl. Raya Kuta no. 9X T: 0361 759 777, 759 888

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shelf assessment

D

espite regular attempts to undo the apparent naturalness of their relationship, realism and the novel are hard to prise apart. And over the decades their commingling has spawned a gaggle of robust, highly successful offspring. One of the most important – and sometimes self-important – of these is the American novel and its pinnacle, the “Great American Novel”. Other nations have followed suit so that realism has become not just a literary style with a monopoly on how readers see the world, but the archetypical expression of a nation.

One of the latter day masters – and shapers – of the American form is Don DeLillo whose massive “Underworld” (1997) remains a masterpiece of structure and whose earlier “White Noise” (1985) has proven to be one of the most influential of the last 50 years.

The scope of the American novel is so vast – as vast, eventful and dynamic as the nation itself – that the descriptive value of the term is moot, yet examples of it retain shared features. It is episodic and character driven; its characters are imagined from a point of view of individualism, the notion that people make choices, often the wrong ones, and that they are the product of these; and it has an atomic view of society that regards each of its members as selfcontained, but mobile and prone to collisions that alter trajectories,

a visit from the goon Squad Jennifer Egan, Corsair, 2011,

sometimes wildly. Modern and post-modern examples of the form are in equal parts cynical and optimistic, embracing the egalitarian view that everyone’s everyday life is as valuable and as worthless as every other, and that everyone has the potential for redemption and vertical mobility in both directions. In this regard, Oprah and Keeping up with the Kardashians are both extensions of American literary realism and its global syndications, as are social networks like Twitter and

Facebook, and reality television, which oscillates between celebrating the ordinary, making ordinary people into celebrities, and either deflating or deifying those who have achieved celebrity status. These examples also highlight the question of the direction in which life and art imitate one another; like that between science and science fiction, the relationship is complex.

Jennifer Egan is a novelist more aware than most of how realism and its offshoots might

influence the ways people make sense of their lives and vice versa. Conjoined yet separate, the chapters of “A Visit From the Goon Squad” (winner of the 2011 Pulitzer Prize for literature), like the characters whose lives they describe, form a collection, each one exquisite in isolation but gaining depth and meaning by association. Almost from the beginning I struggled to resist the urge to read these chapters out of order as if the author’s fracturing of sequence - which covers a period from the 1970s to the not too distant future - and the anomie many of her characters seem representative of, invited yet another disordering intervention.

I was interested to note in the “liner notes” section of the highly recommended special iPad/ Phone/Pod edition I subsequently downloaded, that the chapters were written in different sequence too and sometimes years apart.

Each is told from the perspective of a particular character, and details events and times alluded to elsewhere in the novel by another of its characters.

Music and the music industry is a current running throughout the novel as is Egan’s interest in social networks and the digitisation of culture. This is evident both thematically and in terms of style.

Nowhere is this more obvious than in the penultimate chapter, “Great Rock and Roll Pauses”, written entirely as a PowerPoint presentation. In any other writer’s hands this could come across as mere gimmickry, but here that ubiquitous scourge of lectures and business meetings is charged with startling emotional depth and fragility, evidence of Egan’s rare, unsettling gifts and the persistent power of the novel to interrogate through twists and turns the strangeness and uncertainties of the real. • PETER STEPHENSON june 2012

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last but not least

chris salans

what is your earliest childhood memory? Walking through the forests of the Sologne area of France while mushroom picking.

The woods would smell of oak trees, moss and sometimes wild pigs. who was your childhood hero? My mother. I was always impressed with the fact that she could cook for me and my two brothers every night and feed all of us until we were full with what until today remains the best food I ever remember eating.

mentor is David Bouley of New York City. He has taught me to be spontaneous in my cuisine, which has turned out to be both an asset and a drawback. describe a typical day in your life. It ideally starts with breakfast with the kids, reviewing emails and plans for the New Mozaic Beach Club opening this July. I usually drive up to Ubud to oversee the Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique. If lucky, I make it back home to kiss the kids good night. Ideally. how do you incorporate the support of others into your work? I tend to evaluate the comments I get from people close to me like family and even my consultants, and sleep on it for a day or two.

if you weren’t a restaurateur, what other profession would you consider trying? I was a medical student in college so I guess I would have continued in that field.

what are you currently working on besides managing mozaic? I work closely with Schott Zwiesel; I have a new line of tableware I am designing for Hankook; and I also work closely with Lotus Arts de Vivre for The Mozaic Beach Club’s dining room.

who or what has been your greatest inspiration? My greatest

if you had complete creative licence and an unlimited budget, what

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would you do with them? Exactly what I am doing now (and more).

I’m happy as a clam these days and would not change anything! list your favourite book and TV show. Give me a pile of cookbooks from the great chefs of our times, the Asian food Channel, the Food Channel and HBO and take my car keys away. if you could choose a conversation topic at a dinner party, what would it be? Bali. There is enough good and bad happening around

us to keep the whole table busy for a complete evening! name five famous people (dead or alive) that you would invite to a dinner party.

Albert Einstein, to see what he would make of this food we do these days.

David Bouley, so he can see my culinary evolution since I was his chef. Elvis Presley, just because I love his music. Paul Bocuse, to excite his palate with the fantastic ingredients of Bali and one of those actors who are on a diet so that there is left-over food for me! [Laughs] •

image courtesy of mozaic bali

IntervIeweD by hellobali

between juggling Mozaic RestauRant gastRonoMique and the soon-to-open Mozaic Beach cluB, renowned chef chris salans chats with hellobali

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