IDR40,000 SGD8.00 RM18.00 THB180
MAY 2012 / VOL 17 NO 5 www.hellobalimagazine.com
the art of island relaxation
7 spa oases, yoga retreats and relaxing hideaways to heal your soul
chez gado gado’s culinary whiz / diving in the pristine pemuteran bali’s hottest salsa bars uncovered
I DON’T THINK I’LL LEAVE THE APARTMENT TODAY
D I S P L AY A P A R T M E N T O P E N I N G S O O N
A B S O L U T E BEACHFRONT TOTAL LUXURY EC H O B
A
BEAC H L
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M A N A G E D A PA RT M E N T S NOW
SELLING
+62 361 888 1234 w w w. s e a s e n t o s a . c o m
may 2012 // vol 17 no 5 www.hellobalimagazine.com
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kitchen talk
phillip mimbimi from hu’u bar & grill
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spirit.ual journey
big mama mojito at cubana bar & grill
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style
walk in my shoes
Walking down the lane with Niluh Djelantik
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room raider
the seminyak beach resort & spa pan pacific nirwana resort bali lodgiNg dEals
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fast forward rewind map of bali navigator shelf assessment
black book
i spy with my little eye
Random finds on the island 500-word postcard
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counter culture
the old bamboo
Admiring the island’s great bamboo-made structures
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Appraising Bali’s fine arts
the art of living
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to dine for gado gado reloaded Rediscovering the culinary whiz of clubturned-restaurant Chez Gado Gado
The search of the best waves across the country
expressions
Yogi guru Daniel Aaron reveals the secret to a peaceful soul
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wave hunting
come dance with me in focus
spa dEals
offshore
62 16
island life relax, relax, relax 7 spa oases, yoga retreats and relaxing hideaways to heal your soul
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onshore
pemuteran
The blossoming underwater spectacles in north Bali
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grazing May’s must-visit restaurants Food EVENts
state of the art
community
beg for good?
YKPA helping the street kids
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afterhours
in the heat of the night
Twirl and dip at Bali’s hottest salsa bars
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last but not least
hollywood wedding designer Preston Bailey opens up
THE ASTOR DIAMOND CHAMPAGNE BRUNCH Building on the family legacy of the Astor family who created a style of grandeur with St. Regis New York, bringing society into a new realm and inspiring an era of lavish and decadent afternoon teas and suppers, The St. Regis Bali Resort unveils a new haven for gourmets every Sunday, of the finest Asian inspired haute cuisine, in a style that is unprecedented both in opulence and exclusivity. Aperitif, featuring Champagne, cocktails and canapés, will be served between 11.00am to 12.30pm at the Kayuputi Champagne Bar, while Brunch begins at 12.00pm till 03.00pm. The Brunch Package is inclusive of Aperitif at the Kayuputi Champagne Bar and Juices. Rp. 995.000 net
The Beverage Package is inclusive of Champagne, a selection of premium red and white wines and cocktails. This package also includes a variety of digestives and cigars which will be served from 02.00pm to 03.00pm at the Kayuputi Champagne Bar. Rp. 995.000 net This exclusive brunch starts from 22 January 2012. Seating is limited for the exclusive few and is by reservation only. Please call 62 361 300 6786 to secure your reservation. Pool and beach facilities are reserved for hotel guests only. www.balibeyondgourmet.com
KAWASAN PARIWISATA NUSA DUA LOT S6, BALI, INDONESIA 80363 STREGIS.COM/BALI +62 361 8478111
HOTEL DEBUTS: ABU DHABI BANGKOK BAL HARBOUR DOHA FLORENCE MAURITIUS SANYA SHENZHEN TIANJIN
©2011 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their respective logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.
editor’s letter
your letters
I
I’m a wedding planner from Paris,
France. I wonder if you can help make a living from writing about such things as spas me. My clients are looking for a nice and their various treatments, and I must have had Salsa Bar in Bali to hang out at after around 300 flower baths. But what exactly is the point their wedding. Do you have some of this particular body immersion? Prior to the bath, recommendations? Karim Amiche after a massage, a scrub session, or spending 90 minutes being smothered with mud, chocolate, tea or even civet poo, Hi Karim, you’re invariably asked to shower before you can enter the We personally recommend Cubana oversized tub. So it definitely isn’t meant for body cleansing. Bar & Grill (Raya Petitenget Street no. 12B, Seminyak, T:0361 4737 671, I have to admit that it looks über cool and sexy when Mena www.cubanabali.com). They have Suvari does it in “American Beauty”. But to get that effect, live bands playing salsa/rumba songs you need thousands of rose petals all with the perfect shape on Thursday and Saturday nights, and colour. Digital image enhancing works in films, but not and their cocktails are some of our favourites on the island. in real life. And it’s also highly unlikely that someone like Kevin Spacey (or his female equivalent) will dip his hand into the flower-adorned water. So why do spas insist on having it? I doubt having a flower bath for 15 minutes will make you healthier. And even if you’re not alone in the bathtub, before you even fathom the fact that you’re supposed to take off the disposable spa underwear prior to getting into the tub, the therapist will disturb whatever the two of you are thinking of doing by saying that you only have five minutes left. So if a flower bath is meant to be a meditation – a glorified version of it, of course – why do some spas have it in the middle of a treatment and not at the end? I’m well aware that we go to a spa to pamper ourselves and that even a three-hour massage doesn’t really need any justification. But, again, what’s with the flowers? A vodka or a Champagne bath sounds more innovative and indulgent to me. Unfortunately, this month’s issue will not solve the aforementioned puzzle. What this issue will do, however, is provide you with more insight into the world of spas and relaxation in Bali. We have a big feature that can help you find the perfect spa or relaxation centre for your different needs. That and, of course, many other articles that can make your May in Bali more colourful. Happy reading.
– UNGGUL HERMANTO, group editor-In-chief
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“It had been years since I’d been in these back streets. I knew I had to hunt him down again. I could still remember the taste of that buttery pastry, crunchy yet soft. He was older now, more fragile, but still feisty and strong. His son all grown up, not the cheeky little boy with the bright eyes that chased me that day.
The dish: Kachooris with yellow dahl, coriander and mustard seeds. Served with a duo of mint and tamarind chutneys. A snack for two. Perfect to start. Escape the heat and head to Mama San for lunch. Open from 12 noon.
I watched them together. Handing the tradition to his son, still watching to make sure they were done just right. He wasn’t gone yet. The ritual held them together, bound them with a quiet knowing in those hot, dusty days.
Mama sees it all. And it is beautiful.
jl. raya kerobokan no.135. br taman, bali +62 361 730 436 info@mamasanbali.com www.mamasanbali.com www.facebook.com/MamaSanBali www.twitter/mamasanbali
contributors
Peter Stephenson Writer
Pascal Hierholz Illustrator Having had an experience as a book illustrator in Canada, Pascal, a former international creative director for air Canada now resides in Bali where he spends his days learning Bahasa Indonesia and drawing water colour impressions of the island’s facets of life. Check out his creations at pascalhierholz.com
a writer and artist with a longstanding interest in design and architecture, Peter is also a semireformed procrastinator with an extensive collection of vintage round tuits who typically spends more time appraising other people’s creative work than producing his own.
Educated as a medical doctor, andi Sucirta has been teaching himself photography since 2000. This award-winning photographer specialises in culture, travel and fine art photography.
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HEaD OF OPERaTIONS Patty abidin HEaD OF PRODUCTION agus muslim maRkETING Trias agustiawati promotion@indomultimedia.co.id
the art of island relaxation
aDvERTISING melanie Wahyu, Harry Sutanto, l.D. michael, Dewi Puspa Saraswati, Sri Neni Supriyanti sales@indomultimedia.co.id
on the cover image getty images
PRODUCTION muhidin, Nuridin, Fahri, Sugeng Susanto
GROUP EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Unggul Hermanto unggul@indomultimedia.co.id
TRaFFIC Yoppy Pieter
maNaGING EDITOR Chris andre Sutanto andre@indomultimedia.co.id
Anita Duffin Writer
Andi Sucirta Photographer
PRESIDENT DIRECTOR ajie kusumantoro
asia loves anita, and the feeling is mutual. Her fascination with asia was further perpetuated with stories about its colourful cross section of people and culture which she reported on for a variety of magazines and newspapers throughout the region. She moved to Bali over two years ago.
SR. SalES & maRkETING maNaGER I Gst. ayu Oka Trisnawati ayu@indomultimedia.co.id DESIGN CONSUlTaNT Brown Fox Studio info@brownfoxstudio.com
CIRCUlaTION Pandu Guritno, Siti Turyati head office Globe Building 3rd floor Jl. Buncit Raya kav. 31-33, Jakarta 12740, Indonesia Tel: (62-21) 7918 7008 Fax: (62-21) 7918 7009 www.indomultimedia.co.id Printed by Indonesia Printer
CIRCUlaTION Ramlan Panggabean, aidil Fitri, Putu mustika SUPPORTING STaFF ketut adi Winarti, Ida ayu ade Pratiwi, Titin lapelani OFFICE maNaGER kholilah bali office Pertokoan kuta Center Blok B2 & B12, Jl. kartika Plaza, kuta-Bali, Indonesia Tel: (62-361) 919 0756, 919 0765, 756 354 Fax: (62-361) 756 354 E-mail: bali@indomultimedia.co.id
Hello Bali is published each month by PT. media Wisata Dewata under license No. 710/Sk/mENPEN/ SIUPP/1998. Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the authors. The publishers and printers accept no responsibility for the contents thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior permission of the publishers. all trademark rights to the names and Hello Bali are reserved by PT. media Wisata Dewata.
text chris andre
fast forward choco cougar MAY 17
the show must go on APR ONWARDS
Bali Safari and Marine Park entertains the wide-eyed visitor with an enchanting Balinese tale from the twelfth century as told through the “Bali Agung” show. The festive theatre performance is now held daily at 2.30pm. A package ticket into the wildlife park already covers admission to the stunning
theatrical stage, which holds 170 dancers and several trained animals. Due to the limited seats, please book early via customer service upon arrival at the main terminal. Bali Safari and Marine Park, Jl. Bypass Prof Dr Ida Bagus Mantra, Km. 19,8 (Golden Line of Bali), Gianyar, T: 0361 950 000, www.balisafarimarinepark.com
a life less ordinary MAY 16 - 26
Refresh your perspective with a spiritual journey into the heart of Bali as told by a native king, ancient healers and cultural leaders. The Bali VisionQuest organised by Bali Institute covers a visit to the Royal Family of Peliatan in Ubud, an observation on the unique Balinese funeral procession, an overnight stay at the traditional village of Sudaji in north Bali and much more. You’ll even have some time to go shopping at the local market, where you can purchase the sarong necessary to enter the sacred temples. www.baliinstitute.org 8
may 2012
Wildly seductive and ecstatically dynamic, Chocolate Puma’s aural charms will get you hooked right from the start. The Dutch beat duo, Zki and Dobre, has been a force to reckon with in the house music industry, playing under different aliases, once as The Goodmen, whose “Give It Up” single soared to number one in the US dance chart in 1993. Their latest tracks infuse “Tonco Tone” and blaring trumpets into the thumping record, a blend which, the boys say, is all about having fun and not taking things too seriously.
Hu’u Bar & Grill, Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak, T: 0361 473 6576, www.huubali.com
ecstatic funtastic MAY 1 ONWARDS Spend a day at the super-exciting, wetly exhilarating Waterbom Bali as a new Funtastic Aqua Playland is finally open to the public. The huge water playground has five water slides and a splashing array of umbrella jets, bubble jets, water guns, pull ropes, climbing nets and many more. The best part perhaps is the giant 1,200-litre tipping bucket that will drench the whole family in joyful thrill. Waterbom Bali, Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta, T: 0361 755 676, www.waterbom-bali.com
fast forward
horizontal rock MAY 3
Let Vertical Horizon rekindle your old flickering memories with a serenade of romantic rock songs. The band is on its Asian world tour and will visit Hard Rock Café Bali, playing smash hits like “Best I Ever Had”, “Everything You want” and “You’re a God”. The concert is held in conjunction with the twenty-first anniversary of the promoter, Original Production (www.tommypratama.com). Hard Rock Cafe Bali, Kuta, T: 0361 755 661, bali.hardrockhotels.net
dancing with the stars MAY 18 - 19
what’s up, doc? MAY 5
tit for ted MAY 26
An inspiring occasion for aspiring bright minds, the TEDxUbud (www.tedxubud.com) is an event not to be missed. Be part of an audience which gets the chance to interact with some of the world’s movers-and-shakers in various industries, from business to environment to technology. Videos of taped TEDTalks delivered by current future thinkers are also shown exclusively at the venue. Stimulating, thought-provoking and probably life-changing, the TEDxUbud might hold the answer to your questions on how the world is and will be in the near future. Fivelements, Puri Ahimsa, Banjar Baturning, Mambal, T: 0361 469 206, www.fivelements.org 10
may 2012
The utterly reliable and commendable BIMC Hospital is taking a big stride by opening a brand new hospital in Nusa Dua within the BTDC area. Slated to open officially on May 5 this month, the two-storey facility is designed by the cutting-edge Australian health architecture firm Silver Thomas Hanley and has 42 inpatient beds with five top-notch centres of excellence. These are the 24-hour Accident and Emergency, the 24-hour Medical, the Dialysis, the CosMedic and the Dental Centre.
BIMC Hospital, Nusa Dua, Block D, BTDC, T: 0361 300 0911, www.bimcbali.com
The allure of Balinese dance is such an irresistible visual feast, which is why the Blahbatuh Blangsinga show at Puri Ageng Blahbatuh is a mustsee performance. Dancing onstage is the legendary Balinese dancer, Ida Bagus Oka Wirjana (known as Ida Bagus Blangsinga). The line-up of renowned guest stars includes I Gusti Ayu Raka Rasmi, Jro Made Puspawati, Ni Luh Menek and Ni Ketut Arini. The two-day show starts at 7pm and might be your best bet to see these maestros reviving their beautiful body-movement heritage.
Yayasan Intan Budaya Negeri, T: 0361 737 355, E: intanbudayanegri@yahoo.com
save the last dance for peace MAY 25 - 29
Dance to celebrate peace at the AwareDance For Peace 2012 on Batur Mountain, Kintamani. Immerse yourself in the sacred fire ceremony on the first day, and heal your soul with mantras and trance dance the next. A special 24-hour session of dance takes place on the Sunday, and yet more surprises unfold on the following days. This charity event is presented by Galactic Confederation and Sitaram Vision Tribe.
www.awaredance.com
BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua provide the following services and facilities 24 Hour Accident & Emergency Centre – Equipped with the latest emergency equipment to deal with any and every emergency
Pathology Department – 24 hour in-house laboratory
Doctor’s Consultation Rooms – General Practitioner and Specialists
Operating Theatres – 3 operating theatres for emergency and elective surgeries
Dialysis Centre – The latest technology in Hemodialysis with specially trained doctors and nurses
Pharmacy – 24 hour pharmacy also open to the public for prescription & over-the-counter medication
Intensive Care Unit – 2 ICU Beds & 1 ICU Isolation room, 3 Pre-Operative Beds, 5 Post-Operative Beds, 3 Recovery Beds and 3 Recovery Rooms
Ambulances – A fleet of ambulances ready 24 hour a day for emergency calls on the island of Bali
Dental Centre – Equipped with the latest dental care technology Hospital Beds – 42 ward rooms including 1 isolation ward room Radiology Department – CT-Scan, Digital X-Ray, 3 Dimensional Ultrasound and MRI
CosMedic Centre – Surgical procedures include: Blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery), Rhinoplasty (nose surgery), Face lift, Neck lift, Breast augmentations, Abdominoplasty and Liposuction. Non surgical procedures include: Botox, Dermal Fillers, Fruit Acid Peel, Aptos Stitch, Human Growth Hormone (hGH)
text chris andre
rewind suite dream
the glitz and the famous Conrad’s eighth anniversary on April 11 was one fine evening awash with glitz and glamour. Drawing inspiration from the recent Oscar Awards, a golden statue greeted the guests who were about to discover delicious food galore catered by chefs from a number of the resort’s food joints. Additionally chef Allen Stevano introduced the new Rhubarb Doughnut dessert especially for the resort’s birthday. Concluding the event that night was a spectacular dance show that flared up an 8-figure torch set on the beach beyond the ocean garden and the infinity chapel. Conrad Bali, Jl. Pratama no. 168, Tanjung Benoa, T: 0361 778 788, www.conradbali.com
Search no more for a snug yet practical place to crash during your stay in Kuta. The new three-star-plus Quest Hotel Tuban not only boasts an array of traditional foods within walking distance, but is also a fiveminute drive to the airport and Kuta beach. Add to that 95 oversized guest rooms done in funky, vibrant décor, and your stay will be delightful. Complementary facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, spa, meeting rooms, WI-FI internet access and much more. Quest Hotel Tuban, Kuta, Jl. Kediri no. 9, T: 0361 764 009, tuban. questhotels.com
spice whirl good karma Karma Resorts recently held a 24-hour silent auction to raise funds for The Bali Life Foundation, a local orphanage located two km outside of Karma Kandara. As much as US$40,000 was needed to provide a new housing establishment where the kids can grow and live in better conditions. The bids began at 2pm on Wednesday, April 11, and ended on the next day at 6pm, accumulating an astounding US$30,000, all in the name of charity. Karma Resorts founder and owner John Spence pitched in US$15,000 to bring the total donation to US$45,000, and presented the check during a live announcement at Nammos Beach Club on April 12 evening.
Karma Kandara, Jl. Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan, T: 0361 848 2200, www.karmakandara.com 12
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Friday March 16 saw talented local bartenders battle it out at the World Class 2012 Second Challenge by Diageo Reserve in WooBar, W Retreat & Spa. The contest summoned 12 creative heads, from among other bars Ku De Ta and Metis, to concoct their own authentic recipes, mixing local spices with Ketel One Vodka. Among the jury members was Chong Yi Shawn, the award-winning food and beverage lecturer at Sunway University, Kuala Lumpur. The ultimate final of the Diageo Reserve World Class 2012 will take place in July, whereby all the finalists from around the world, including the winning bartender from Indonesia, will play their aces. www.diageo.com
G O N AK E D hu’u B A R & GR ILL ONE OF LIFE’S FINEST PLEASURES...
At hu’u bar & grill, we employ simple cooking techniques, the finest cuts of imported meats and the freshest local ingredients in our cuisine. An au naturel approach. hu’u bar in bali
c e l eb rati ng o ur 10th an n iversary in 201 2 r e s er v a ti o ns +6 2 361 473 65 76, hu u bali .c o m , j a l a n pe t i t e n g e t , s e m i n ya k, ba l i 8 03 6 1
@huubali
rewind
turn your lights down low
the seven-year cheers Bali Island Villas & Spa, which also runs the strategically located Taman Merah Spa in Petitenget, lit candles and celebrated its seventh anniversary on March 31 along with Java Jive restaurant. A lucky draw and a Joged dance enlivened the jubilation during the special dinner among the staff. The event peaked with a fabulous pictureperfect moment where all the staff cheered loud and proud! Bali Island Villas & Spa, Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 469, Seminyak, T: 0361 473 6656, www.islandvillasbali.com
To participate in the global Earth Hour movement, the Green Sparks and YouthAMP hosted an Earth Hour party at Gourmet Café on March 31 evening. Strewn with a line-up of young talents offering a range of acts from band performances to DJ sessions, the event also celebrated the organisation’s anniversary. The lights were switched off right at 8.30pm for 60 minutes, symbolised by the 60 lit candles. Entertainment features including stand-up comedy kept the audience in check. www.iccbali.com
keep on guess-ing Aiming to enthuse local shoppers, Gc smart luxury watches held a series of events in late April. Their retail store is soon to open at Beachwalk Kuta, the new happening spot on the island. Dinner and VIP gatherings were attended by creative personalities including fashion and interior designers as well as artists and actresses hailing from the capital city. Overall the Gc watch will be an exciting deluxe brand that will grace the wrists of Bali’s fashionistas. www.gcwatches.com
the final draw
Tonyraka Art Gallery enlisted 17 deft artists from Bali, Yogyakarta and Bandung for a special exhibition entitled PAINTING@DRAWING from March 30 to April 13. Curated by Arif Bagus Prasetya, the drawing-based artworks represented a metamorphosis of drawing techniques in contemporary art practice. The participating artists included Agung Mangu Putra, Chusin Setiadikara, Dewa Ngakan Ardana and Diyano Purwadi. Tonyraka Art Gallery, Jl. Raya Mas no. 86, T: 0361 974 538, www.tonyrakaartgallery.com 14
may 2012
black book
i spy with my little eye an eclectic hodgepodge of our editors’ random finds on the island
cuppa culture
01
Taking a look at the crop of coffee houses in Seminyak, Ubud and Bypass Nusa Dua, we fancy the quirky red-bricked, newly opened Anomali Coffee (Jl. Kayu Aya no. 7B, Seminyak) that has gained cult status in the capital city. Fragrant choices of coffee beans from Sumatra to Papua are brewed fresh and tasty. And let’s not forget their sumptuous crème brûlée latte. Another coffee joint on a mission is the Cafe Seniman in Ubud (Jl. Sriwedari,
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T: 0361 972 085, www.senimankopi.com) that reveals the fascinating process of coffee making. For a more intimate ambience, drop by at the Espress (Jl. Dewi Sri, espressbali.com) where espresso coffees meet baklava crepes and yummy sandwiches. Your tongue will find itself buoyed in gastronomic bliss at Honey & Bread (Pepito Express, Jl. Bypass Nusa Dua, T: 0361 776 316). Cups of coffee, though preferably tea, are paired up with your own choice of the 20 types of honeys in store. So, where will you get a cup of pick-me-up tomorrow?
molecular baby!
04
HI-Fly
Adrenaline junkies had to bid goodbye to the iconic slingshot at the strip of Kartika Plaza last April. The people that shed tears for this unfortunate loss (not as much as we did since our office sits just a stone’s throw away from it…) can quickly rebound with an alternative thrill and chill found rather unexpectedly in HARRIS Resort Kuta Beach (Jl. Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 753 868, www.harrishotels.com). From the gusty fourth floor there lays a flying fox wire hung straight down to the edge of the swimming pool on the ground area. For a very affordable price, anyone is welcome to say his prayers and then buckle up for a zooming-reel plunge that should be nothing but spine-chillingly awesome! Should you decide to spend the night at the location, the games of darts, chess or the yoga session will keep you psyched up and busy even during rainy days. Otherwise make a bolt for fun surfing at the ever-so popular Kuta Beach.
02
marooN PaTrol
03
In the wake of the terrorist attack a decade ago the Bali tourism police joined forces with JICA (Japan International Cooperation Agency). Since 2005 this collaboration has been raising security measures at many destinations on the island. It has led to the posting of 300 tourism police sporting stylish maroon ties in the vicinities of Ubud, Kuta, Kintamani, Lovina and others. In 2010 they set up a koban, a neighbourhood police post, in Ubud to help tourists with directions and lost-and-found reports. The following year saw the establishment of the tourism police station in Kuta (close to the Kuta wet market at the junction of Blambangan and Raya Pantai Kuta Street). Providing services in three different languages (English, Bahasa and Japanese), these friendly officers play a vital role in instilling a sense of safety as well as preventing criminal action in the much-loved island of Bali.
If you’ve got an inquisitive palate to satisfy, then head down to Cubana Bar & Grill (Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 12B, T: 0361 473 7671, www. cubanabali.com). Relish the avant-garde molecular cocktails, starting with the Cuba Libre shot, a mixture of rum and lime combined with cola contained in jelly caviar spheres. This eye-candy libation flirts with the eye and tastes so “pop”. For a more visually enchanting concoction, order the Cocoon, a mix of light rum and lychee liqueur served with Cubana’s own light-blue Hypnotic Pearl. Layers of exotic flavours will burst in your mouth, from the warm and sweet rum-lychee tang to the rich fruity splash of the jelly pearl. Last but not least comes the Vanilla Chocolatini, a pretty-looking combination of vanilla vodka and chocolate liqueur, shaken with white chocolate syrup, strained into a chilled martini glass and garnished with dark and white chocolate jelly noodles. Sip, slurp – do it any way you like ‘cause these ain’t no ordinary cocktails.
may 2012
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500-word postcard
come dance with me OUR COLUMNIST RECALLS HIS DANCE-FOR-YOUR-LIFE MOMENTS
I
don’t think of myself as particularly extroverted but I’m not shy and retiring enough for my children especially when it comes to the joget. Because although I don’t go out of my way to be chosen, I have one simple rule: if a joget dancer taps me on the shoulder with her fan, as is the traditional method, or beckons me to the dance floor in some other way, I have to accept. To refuse would be regrettable and unforgivable. It’s my turn to be the spectacle, whether I like or not. Seems only fair, but not to
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“I have one simple rule: if a joget dancer taps me on the shoulder with her fan, as is the traditional method, or beckons me to the dance floor in some other way, I have to accept.” the kids who grimace and blush at the embarrassment of having to watch as their father, with two left feet and a goofy grin, glides after a graceful young woman to the accompaniment of the hoots and laughter of a crowd of thigh slapping strangers. I couldn’t count the number of
times it’s happened. It’s something, I suspect, about my apparent ungainliness, or even the evidence of my reticence that makes me such a beacon. It doesn’t seem to matter how many other bules there are in the crowd or how small I try to make myself, they zero in on me. Not always, but often.
A rare exception, to my children’s great and audible relief, was at the Denpasar Arts Festival last year where a large crowd had gathered to watch two of the island’s best and most coquettish. The token tourist chosen in this case was a large, ruddy, bespectacled man who kept his sandals and socks on throughout. He performed admirably as it happens, and I was surprised to find myself strangely jealous of his opportunity to strut his stuff at such a large and public event. Were my days of buffoonery over? Was I last year’s model? Always in the back of my mind whenever I’ve jigged and jogged closer to the dancer, close enough to feel the warmth of her skin and breathe in her scent but never to touch, was Louise Koke’s cartoon of her lanky husband Bob dancing with a dancer sometime near the dawn of Balinese tourism in the 1930s. Proof only perhaps of how long foreigners have been willing to make fools of themselves but evidence too of a willingness to enter into an unwritten agreement to contribute in some small way to the pleasure of their hosts even if it derived from a momentary loss of dignity. Not that dignity is at a premium during the joget, not ever perhaps but especially not these days. This was something made patently clear at the festival that afternoon when one of the male participants selected from the front row, pulled from the bag he wore around his waist a large cucumber and two duck egg sized sawo. With the trio cupped together suggestively in his hands and a lop-sided leer across his face he chased the dancer around the arena. If only I’d known that props were allowed. The crowd loved it. My kids didn’t know where to look but were very glad it wasn’t me. • PETER STEPHENSON
illustration pascal hierholz
black book
in focus
the art of living the most sought-after yogi and raw food expert daniel aaron dishes out his life-transforming secrets
I
t is said that the eyes are windows to the soul, and the first thing I notice about Daniel Aaron is how his sparkling blue eyes radiate calmness, compassion and knowingness. As the creator of Radiantly Alive, he aims to uplift our world through unique and powerfully transformative yoga experiences. But if you are picturing a typical white-robed longhaired guru in sandalwood beads speaking in mantras, think again. Daniel is very much a modern-day yogi (he prefers the term “human potential guide”) who also happens to make awesome raw chocolate, delves in astrology, runs yoga teacher training programmes, and facilitates raw-food chef courses. He has been keeping it real in Bali for the past five years and this month launches his Radiantly Alive studio in Ubud. In a moment of serendipity our meeting coincides with BaliSpirit Festival, a five-day celebration of yoga, music and dance, where lush tropical gardens have been transformed into a hive of holistic activity. I catch Daniel giving a talk on raw food in one of the pavilions. He is warm and likeable, with a tendency to say “Y’all” a lot, in a way that is both embracing and endearing. A natural storyteller, he has the audience hanging on his every word. “I have been playing around with stuff to feel better for a long time,” he says, tracing the origins of
his transformation back 20 years. “I had a standard American sad diet, with meat for every meal. I was fat, depressed, and that was on a good day. I started to think, ‘this isn’t right, what can I do differently?’” Vegetarianism came first. He likens that phase to a crack in a windshield, which spread slowly but surely in a myriad of spiritual and health-driven directions as he journeyed across the globe, learning from dozens of teachers, living his life luminously, consciously, with full purpose. We stroll in search of fresh drinking coconuts and wind up immersed in lively conversation. Daniel tells me that intuition led him to Bali: “I love the diversity of people, the fecundity of the land, the creativity that it inspires… and I love coconuts.” I ask if there was a cataclysmic moment that brought yoga into his life. He responds that a few years down the transformation road, a friend invited him to fire-walk. Part of the preparation was a yoga class. “I always thought yoga was for pansies,” he says, “so I was surprised to find that I liked it.” He describes yoga as alchemy: “You have to put in enough of a challenge and level of difficulty for it to work.” Daniel has a reputation for inspiring people to go beyond what they think is possible, and he tells me that he is motivated by “Making people feel more alive, more vibrant, encouraging them to discover how good it can get.” Feeling good is obviously something that we all aspire to, which leads logically to our next subject. Chocolate! Not the massproduced confectionery high in sugar and milk, but the pure, gooey, healthy, raw kind, which he makes himself. I ask if he has any for me to
“My main passion is helping us all reach our full potential. How happy, alive, healthy, fun, delighted can we be?”
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try; he smiles, digs into his bag and produces a container with some of his latest creations. I choose a dainty truffle infused with a hint of cardamom. It’s delicious, so good in fact that I could happily eat the whole lot. But that would be rather cheeky, so I manage to restrain myself. The photographer arrives and we wander about the festival looking for the right backdrop; a West African dance workshop is underway and the tribal rhythms of the djembe create a lively soundtrack. Daniel is super-chilled and easygoing as we shoot in a number of locations, though his initial shyness with the camera surprises me – or perhaps it’s not shyness, but rather a refreshing sense of humility. Yet, his playfulness is revealed when he offers to climb up a tree and sit in lotus pose. Asked to describe himself in three words, he comes up with “inspiring” (yes, he has certainly inspired me), “quirky” (well, he is sitting on a tree) and “discerning” (obvious in his life choices). One final question I ask is: what makes you happy? “Deep honesty, intimacy, seeing people transform, my daughter, nature, belly laughs, quality, artistry.” A few days later I am doing some background research and discover that Daniel is also a writer. His thoughts, favourite poems, and inspirational quotes can be found scattered about his blog and websites, which is where I find this little gem that just says it all. “Our life is our project. We can make it an exceptional canvas of dreams and inspirations. Everything that passes through us is a brushstroke: each thought, bite of food, every interaction, how we spend our time, where we live. Life is as vibrant, alive, juicy and beautiful as we choose.” • Alison Bone www.radiantlyalive.com
may 2012
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image Andi SucirtA
island life
under the spell of a mantra sung playfully in doris day’s “perhaps, perhaps, perhaps”, we recline, sipping a glass of fresh orange juice before heading off to be pampered by the best massages and more on the island. join us in the indulgent session of self-loving treatments and therapies that switch off your mind for a few blissful hours while you succumb to the whisper of “relax, relax, relax...”
IMAGE getty images
TexT Chris Andre, KAty roberts, KAtie trumAn
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relax,
relax,
relax
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island life
7 spa wonders
3
Jimbaran
1
Thermes Marins Bali Spa
AYANA Resort and Spa, Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, T: 0361 702 222, www.ayanaresort.com Recommended The guided two-hour Aquatonic Pool session – part of the signature thalassotherapy and hydrotherapy treatments – in the world’s largest Aquatonic Seawater Jet Pool. When Book your time to coincide with sunsets, positioned looking out over Jimbaran Bay at one of the 12 hydro-massage multi-jet stations. Tips In the adjacent calm pool take the Underwater Massage that induces sensory disconnection, and float off to another level, literally.
2 Bamboo Spa by L’Occitane
Kupu Kupu Jimbaran, Jl. Bukit Permai, T: 0361 703 342, www.kupuresorts.com Recommended The signature bamboo treatment. Topped with L’Occitane skincare and beauty amenities, you’re in safe hands. When Three hours after a heavy meal. Tips If the pressure is too strong, don’t be afraid to voice your pain. But sometimes the slogan “no pain, no gain” does apply to tense muscles.
UbUd
3 Maya Spa
Maya Ubud, Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, T: 0361 977 888, www.mayaubud.com Recommended The sweet (and romanceoozing) chocolate body mask which begins with a fragrant flower-bath on the beautiful semi-open therapy room overlooking the river and natural green valley. When Go when the weather is balmy and the sun is not too swelteringly hot. Better yet, before dinner. Tips Walk slowly from the lobby to the pavilion that leads to the therapy room. The landscape is worth savouring, every step of the way. nUsa dUa
4 Remède Spa
St Regis Bali Resort, BTDC, T: 0361 847 8111, www.stregis.com Recommended The bloody-Maryinspired treatment, though the rest of the options on the spa menu are very much recommended, including the pedicure! When Thanks to the swanky interior and
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1
2 plush amenities – posh pedicure chairs and nifty spa beds – any time of the day will do. Tips If money is no object, enrol in the threeday detoxification programme every month.
5
Kriya Spa
Grand Hyatt Bali, BTDC, T: 0361 778 884, www.bali.grand.hyatt.com Recommended The two-and-a-half-hour Aanand Kriya. Its comprehensive chakra scalp therapy is superbly relaxing. When Any time of the day. Following a day out in the sun would feel especially rewarding. Tips Stay longer in the nerve-calming health bath that precedes the full-body massage.
Kuta
uluwatu
Villa de Daun, Jl. Raya Legian, T: 0361 756 276, www.dalaspa.com Recommended The Cendana Healing massage here is the one and only on the island. The “couple” treatment happens to be lavish and very decadent. When Any time before sunset since the Legian traffic might get jammed in the evenings. Tips To help relax your mind, take note of the beautiful words inscribed on the frame below the headrest. A glass of red wine would alleviate any stress while you’re immersed in the bathtub.
Karma Kandara, Jl. Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan, T: 0361 848 2200, www.karmakandara.com Recommended The oxygen-infused facial therapy, which is Madonna’s beauty secret. Or the infrared detox sauna. Or the Himalayan crystal salt water regeneration pool. When During sunset as the view is quite inspirational. Tips The Jacuzzi is perched on a cliff’s edge offering a mind-blowing ocean view. Such a visual relaxation bonus is quite something, we must say. •
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DaLa Spa
7
Karma Spa
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island life
7 yogic magics UbUd
1
The Yoga Barn
Jl. Raya Pengosekan, T: 0361 971 236, www.theyogabarn.com Recommended The Sunday Morning Dance and the free-form dance with minimal instruction or the Sound Healing Meditation with Tibetan Bowls. Time It depends on your schedule, but the venue holds a large range of classes from early morning to late evening. Tips Come with an empty stomach and an open mind. This holistic, eco and culturally- sensitive community centre is the perfect place to experiment with holistically alternative options.
2 Desa Seni
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Jl. Subak Sari no. 13, T: 0361 844 6392, Pantai Berawa, www.desaseni.com Recommended Daphna Dor’s Kundalini classes or the Anusara Yoga, which embraces the tantric philosophy of intrinsic goodness. Time Morning sessions take you through the day with a sense of calmness and peace, while end-ofday sessions relax stressedout minds and bodies in readiness for tranquil evenings and sleep. Tips Set aside time post-yoga for the yummy organic restaurant. Seminyak
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Prana Yoga Room
Prana Spa, The Villas Bali, Jl. Kunti no. 118X, T: 0361 730 840, www.pranaspabali.com Recommended The Sivananda yoga, which the Balinese instructor studied in Kerala, India or the dynamic Superflow Vinyasa with a funky soundtrack! Time The morning session at 7.30am gets you ready for Seminyak surfing, shopping or even work. Tips The circular yoga room lets you share positive energy with the other participants. 26
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Also try other treatments before lunch so you can hang out at the studio and eat a healthy lunch. Tips Put on flexible workout footwear.
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4 The Art of Body
Jl. Merta Sari no. 7, T: 0361 877 4094, www.theartofbody.com Recommended Natalia Kashani leads an awesome workout through a range of disciplines. The Pilates session is excellent. Time The afternoon sessions as a healthy alternative to dessert-laden high teas. Tips Don’t shirk; give it all you got and you’ll get a body to rock.
5 Motion Fitness
Jl. Sri Rama no. 72, T: 0361 762 385, www.motionfitnessbali.com Recommended Melanie Bomba’s beach bootcamp. Time to shed some pounds. Time The beach bootcamp starts as early as 7am.
Olop’s Studio
Jl. Drupadi 1 no. 7, T: 0361 733 403, E: olopbali@yahoo.com Recommended The lyengar class with Olop Arpipi, an Iyengar yoga guru. Time During the high season when you get to share exercise with other hot-bodied visitors. Tips For this one, look your radiant best. kUta
7Sunset Pilates Studio
Jl. Dewi Sri no. 98, Legian, T: 0361 791 4127, pilatesbali.com Recommended The classic Pilates. Join the challenging one-hour Studio Class or the oneon-one lessons caring for special needs. Time Since Pilates is a mind-body experience, choose an ideal time when you can really focus. Classes start from 7.30am and continue throughout the day. Tips It’s Bali’s first and perhaps still its only classical Pilates Studio. Pilates helps ease lower-back pain. •
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CanggU
island life
7 de-stressing alternatives Seminyak
1Rob Peetom Hair Spa
Jl. Petitenget, T: 0361 738 363, www.robpeetom.nl Recommended Intense hair treatments, with hair steamer and hot-stone massages, taken on leather loungers in a quiet, open-air terrace facing rice fields. Time When you and your tresses are really stressed; late afternoon, when you’re fanned by cool breezes. Tips If he’s around, grab the owner Rob Peetoom – one of the world’s most sought-after hair stylists and beauty gurus – for personalised advice on hair and grooming.
mambal
2 Fivelements
Puri Ahimsa, Banjar Baturning, T: 0361 469 206, www.fivelements.org Recommended Healing energy sessions or must-do Panca Mahabhuta, where your Balinese healer helps balance the body’s five elements, cleans out unhealthy emotional, physical and mental energy, and re-aligns your chakras. Time Any time is good to rid yourself of bad energy and be treated in private riverbank “healing huts”. Tips You’ll be exhausted afterwards, so rest with a herbal cleansing tea on the riverside deck. Continue the “cleansing” with lunch at the riverside Sakti restaurant, munching on raw vegan food.
Tulamben
3
Spa Village Resort Tembok
Jl. Singaraja no. 100, Amlapura, T: 0362 32033, www.spavillage.com Recommended One of the in-house revitalising therapies, the starlight gazing session, requires lying weightless on a floating platform on the resort’s beachside infinity pool, plugged into an iPod with a NASA-inspired meditative soundtrack. Time At night under inky black skies, appreciating the awesome galaxy of stars and enormity of the universe. It might get better during Nyepi. Tips Stargazing is best in remoter parts like Tembok, where skies are clearer. But if you can’t 28
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manage the spa resort stay, substitute with your own pool and floating mattress somewhere quiet. ubud
4 Ubud Central
Jl. Raya Ubud Recommended The ambience of Ubud on a Saturday, bustling markets, tourist buses and plenty to see and do. Time The whole of Saturday. Tips Start off with coffee at Localista (Jl. Suweta no. 5, T: 0361 972 304, www.localistacafe.com), head to the markets and the palace, then
Lamak (Jl. Monkey Forest, T: 0361 974 668, www. lamakbali.com) for lunch. Follow that with an afternoon at the Neka Art Museum (Jl. Raya Campuhan, T: 0361 975 074, www.museumneka. com) and end up at sunset in Nomad (Jl. Raya Ubud no. 35, T; 0361 977 169, nomad-bali.com) for a cocktail. CandidaSa
5 White Sand Beach
Bugbug, Karangasem Recommended Arrive after driving through the beautiful countryside. Turtles and sometimes
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4 dolphins can be spotted in the ocean, where snorkelling is a great activity. Time Late morning. Tips If you’re lost, ask the fishermen for directions (learn a few words in Bahasa first). More importantly, keep this beach a secret! Tabanan
6 Bedugul Market
Jl. Raya Bedugul, Baturiti Recommended Buy the exotic fruits and colourful fabrics. If you’re a cook, then the framed displays of local kitchen ingredients might appeal to you. Time Early morning or late afternoon when the weather is breezy cool. Tips Make your way to the market from Desa Gobleg, Banjar, Buleleng; it’s located at the peak of a hill with a breathtaking view of the three lakes of North Bali. UlUwaTU
7 Padang Padang Beach
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Jl. Labuhan Sait, Pecatu Village Recommended Surfing or being on the beach all day eating local food at the warung. Time Dawn till dusk. Tips Cold beers at sunset. Should you desire somewhere quieter, drive to the nearby Balangan Beach. • may 2012
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island life
spa maze own a birkin bag?
Yes
remède spa (st regis bali)
No
martini lover?
Yes
No
jiwa spa (conrad bali)
image getty images
dala spa (villa de daun)
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bamboo spa by l’occitane (kupu-kupu jimbaran)
Yes kriya spa (grand hyatt bali)
No
mandara spa (nikko bali)
No are you a mermaid in the past life?
Yes
Yes
No Yes
exhibitionist
sashimi lover?
No
Yes fivelements (puri ahimsa)
is green your favourite color?
Yes
you are a surfer?
No is it blue?
No taman merah spa
spa furama (furama villas & spa)
Yes
you like monkey?
No
No
Yes
No
Yes
Yes
ubud bodyworks
No
No
are you in seminyak?
Yes
m spa
are you a vampire?
No
Yes
into all-male therapists?
Yes
No
No waiting for the full moon?
samatha spa (hotel santika premier beach resort)
Yes
Yes
bar-hoppers?
No
No
spa uluwatu (intercontinental bali resort)
karma spa (karma kandara)
No
into 1001 arabian nights?
prana spa
Yes professional?
No
Yes
kayumanis spa (kayumanis jimbaran) thermes marins bali (ayana resort & spa)
No
bamboo fan?
what about chinese jades?
right-wing proponent? the luxe spa (sentosa private villas & spa)
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
a vegan?
environmentalist?
No
yogi?
with kids?
are you a princess?
No
semara spa (semara seminyak)
Yes
start
Yes
royal spa (royal santrian)
private spa & wellness
the spa at the breezes
maya spa (maya ubud)
away spa (w retreat & spa) banyan tree spa (banyan tree ungasan) may 2012
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island life kayumanis jimbaran
kayumanis spa Have you ever been whisked to a remote beach for a relaxing massage on a bale? Kayumanis Jimbaran is reintroducing their private beach spot at Balangan Beach in Jimbaran where you and your significant other can be pampered in Balinese gazebos with a breathtaking sunset view. A private restroom and shower area are also available. T: 0361 705 777
karma spa New treatments dedicated to gentlemen are here! From the Back Massage with Warm Stones to the Gentlemen’s Pedicure to the Deep Repair Facial, you’ll enjoy a thorough rejuvenation that will set you ready for a brand new day. We recommend the Men’s Retreat, lasting for 2.5 hours and inclusive of infrared detox sauna, full body massage of your choice, the deep repair facial and a choice of either pedicure or manicure – all in the masculine way. T: 0361 848 2200
the yoga barn
HArris resort KutA BeACH
spa deals
h’spa
Indulge in the sweet promotion of Relax @H’Spa at the strategically-located resort – across the Kuta Beach. With five rooms available for couple and single treatments, they also have a King or Queen package which includes footbath, aromatherapy massage, coffee scrub and flowers and milk bath. Quick and refreshing is the one-hour Balinese massage treatment which uses the exotic oils of ylang ylang and jasmine. T: 0361 753 868 grAnd HyAtt BAli
kriya spa Take advantage of the wonderful discount promotion of 50 per cent for your second ritual at Kriya Spa this month. The spa’s stunning architecture that resembles an ancient Balinese water palace bestows not only serenity but also a reinvigorating experience for a tired mind. This limited offer is also valid for Kriya Spa Retail Boutique and available daily from 12pm to 3pm. T: 0361 778 884 32
may 2012
The yogic centrepiece in Ubud recently announced the grand opening of their new and expanded facilities with an all-night celebration of yoga, dance and more on April 6. The new wing occupies 3.5 acres of land and features 100 per cent recycled materials, a vast open-air area and restricted motor vehicle access. A larger amphitheatre, onsite accommodation and additional studio for workshops and classes are also available here. T: 0361 970 581 ConrAd BAli
jiwa spa
In the spirit of the resort’s eighth anniversary, Jiwa Spa extends the sought-after new treatment called Spa Splash Sensation. Beginning with footbath, the 90-minute pampering experience prepares a warm bath accompanied with sweet treats such as wine, champagne or martini and fresh strawberries dipped in chocolate. Next is gracious body massage with wine- or martiniinfused essential oil. T: 0361 778 788
onshore
pemuteran the world’s largest coral reef restoration project is a natural haven and a far cry from the modernised south bali text & images katy roberts
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image courtesy of the menjangan
F
ounded as a kingdom by Gusti Panji Sakti, who ruled lands as far away as East Java, Buleleng covers the largest region of Bali. It spreads over lakes, mountains and plains and coastlines in the northern part of the island. The north coast, where Pemuteran lies, is considered by some who live there to be a separate world from the rapacious life in what they refer to as “The South�. The topographical make-up of Pemuteran creates a microclimate that sees rolling clouds gather at the tops of the ranges in the afternoon, with no guarantee of rain. Being drier than the rest of the island, the trees and forests are similar to those of northern Australia with spindly eucalyptus and narrow-leafed shrubs dotting the lower slopes and the coastal forests.
dos
don’ts
Take care of the reefs. Do not touch or break pieces of coral when snorkelling or diving.
Feed the monkeys as they can be vicious. Leave anything behind. Be sure to dispose of your waste responsibly.
Enjoy the change in pace. North Bali prides itself on its laid-back approach to life, and everyone can benefit from less hustle. Take a local bemo public transport along the route from Pemuteran to Lovina or Singaraja; jump on board with the locals for a friendly experience in road travel. Eat Balinese food. Try the local cafĂŠs for their specialities. Be quiet in the forest; the animals are more likely to appear to those who tread softly. The local deer are lovely to observe from a distance. Take either the sunset or sunrise boat trips out to the views of Java. The sight of the volcano rising in the distance is beautiful at any time of day. Make sure you are confident on the roads before you bike or drive yourself up to North Bali. While the roads are good, the mountain route has some twists and turns, and the coastal route has heavy traffic from the port at certain times of day.
Forget to reapply sunblock when you are in the water even though Pemuteran may have low cloud cover in the afternoon the sun can still burn. Neglect to take bottled water with you when you go trekking. The coastal routes are flat but can be long, and the forest treks up to the waterfalls require some strength. Be shy. The Buleleng people have great warmth and will welcome you to practise your Bahasa Indonesia when you greet them. Be afraid. There are wild animals and also reptiles around but they prefer their own company and are unlikely to seek you out for attention – apart from those monkeys! Rock the boat! Sit back and enjoy all that North Bali has to offer.
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getting there Pemuteran is easily reached. The routes are varied, so going up one way and returning down another can be incorporated into the adventure of heading north. When coming out from Sanur, Ketewel and through Ubud, it can be pleasant to head through the pretty market town of Candi Kuning and the Bedugul Lake area over the range to Gitgit Falls, and then down into Singaraja with options of turning right to the North East or left towards the coastline of Pemuteran itself. Alternatively, coming from the Kuta, Seminyak, Canggu side of the island, the drive up the west coast takes about four hours and passes Medewi and Negara before turning slightly inland after 36
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Gilimanuk, the port town that links Bali to Java, directly along to Menjangan and West Bali National Park and then along the coastal route directly into Pemuteran.
things to do trekking Forest trekking either in West Bali National Park or the Menjangan Nature Reserve is a popular pursuit for nature lovers and bird watchers. Particularly spectacular are the Brahminy Kites surfing the warm currents off the heights of the mountains above the flat lands behind the shore.
diving Underwater activities are plentiful, and
Pemuteran attracts a committed population of divers who return regularly to explore the reefs offshore and out in the Java Sea around Menjangan Island, which at sea level looks unimposing, even a little dull. But beneath the surface there is such a gathering of species and established gardens it can literally take your breath away. Pemuteran has also become Bali’s centre for Bio-Rock coral reef restoration, the project that rebuilds coral gardens that have been destroyed over time through bleaching – an effect of the warmer waters occurring in response to the El-Nino weather influences – and the past practices of dynamite fishing. While the environmentalists are unable to do much about the weather, the effort put into educating local fishermen has netted great results. Not only do the fishermen no longer use dynamite, many of them organised in village groups are active in preserving the reef. There are some “big names” attached quite literally to the coral regeneration programme. Not far offshore from the Taman Sari Resort, it is possible to see these names and other structures as they play host to a growing garden of coral. There is a beautiful coral goddess statue and a cluster of names like Bali International School, who recently sent a group of students to make a name for themselves in the underwater garden.
pearl farming Atlas Pearls (www.atlassouthseapearl.com. au) operates a pearl farm off the Pemuteran Coast, about ten minutes by road from the site of the coral garden. The farm is a venture in
image courtesy of Paul M turley
onshore
stay Taman Sari Bali Resort & Spa Dusun Pemuteran, Kecamatan Gerokgak, T: 0362 93 264, www.tamansariabali.com Home to Coral Regeneration Programs. Your stay will be replete with informative underwater activities taking place around the area. The Menjangan West Bali National Park, Jl. Raya Gilimanuk, Singaraja, T: 0362 94 700, www.themenjangan.com The lodge and the private cottages are right inside the forest. The Menjangan organises walks, night treks, boats, bicycles and horse rides for their guests. Matahari Beach Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Seririt, Gilimanuk, T: 0362 92 312, www.matahari-beach-resort.com The most beautiful accommodation with blossoming gardens, a central pool and private cottages landscaped right down to the beachfront. Taman Selini Beach Bungalows T: 0362 94 746, www.tamanselini.com Secluded in breathtaking green surroundings, it is an escape from the modern conclave. eat All the accommodation in North Bali has restaurants and cafes, buffets and barbeques, but if you fancy getting out and about and can get to Lovina, an hour’s drive to the east, you will find a small but growing selection of cafes and warungs that offer a range of eating options. Taman Selini’s at the Taman Selini Resort in Pemuteran has a lovely Mediterranean menu of seafood and Greek style dishes.
“Pemuteran has also become Bali’s centre for Bio-Rock coral reef restoration, the project that rebuilds coral gardens that have been destroyed over time through bleaching.” sustainable pearling complete with a laboratory, breeding tanks and a café-showroom. Visitors can take boats out to the offshore pontoons that take care of the oyster frames and observe the process of nurturing these fascinating creatures which produce the most exquisite pearls. Atlas sends the maturing oysters to the waters of Papua as purity is a large factor in pearl creation, and visitors can sometimes view the oyster-laden boats that travel out to the far reaches of the Eastern Ocean.
horse riding and turtle hatching Pemuteran has created family-style activities that provide all visitors with the opportunity to enjoy their time. There is horse riding along the beach. This is run by Reef Seen Aquatics (T: 0812 389 4051, www.reefseenbali.com), which also manages the magnificent Reef Seen Turtle Hatchery Project. The Hatchery buys turtle eggs from local villagers who come across them in
the sand or dunes. These eggs are then hatched and cared for until they can be released into the open sea. This is something that visitors to Reef Seen can be a part of, and depending on the season it could be the Green Turtle, the Olive Ridley or the Hawksbill that you assist on its way to an independent life.
things to see jayaprana grave Unusual pursuits in Pemuteran can include visiting the ancient temples and seeing the site of Teluk Terima, known as Jayaprana’s grave. This site memorialises the sad love story of a prince who wished to marry a country girl only to be killed by the king, who also wished to marry her. The girl, who loved her prince, was forced by the king to dream of the killing and eventually took her own life rather than marry him. A tragic tale but the temple has a stunning view. • may 2012
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to dine for
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gado gado reloaded the present incarnation of the once iconic gado gado bursts with modern and sumptuous gourmet fare with fresh supplies from the verdant hills of tabanan
B
ack in the ’80s, in what expats assure us were the glory days of Bali, long before super-clubs sprang up on Jalan Legian and beanbags became de rigueur for every warung and bar on the beach, Club Gado Gado was the island’s hottest party spot. It’s been more than ten years since the sound system was switched off and the venue mellowed into a classy restaurant, but it remains one of the island’s greatest icons. Now known as Chez Gado Gado, the restaurant’s ongoing success can be attributed to several features. Take the glorious beachfront setting for starters. But it has also managed to stay ahead of the crowd with an ever-evolving concept: from cool club, to French bistro, to its present incarnation as a chic fine dining and function venue. Through all its various reinventions, the soul of Gado Gado has remained intact – balmy tropical nights blended with the warmth of friendly staff and a whisper of island magic.
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quib’s top ten kitchen tips for the home cook Don’t start cooking when you are in a bad mood. Start in a spotless clean kitchen. Have a nice bottle of wine standing by. Keep your menu simple. Follow your feeling, not the recipe. Make it your own. Invest in a good quality knife. Invest in a big cutting board. Put a wet towel under your cutting board so it doesn’t slip. Buy the best quality ingredients (olive oil, cheese, butter, etc). Ask your guests to help with the dishes afterwards.
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Last year’s renovations expanded the restaurant and added a glossy sheen, but the original wantilan building, a majestic pagodalike structure with a soaring roof dangling with glittering chandeliers, remains. The upper tier has comfortable sofas with wonderful views overlooking the main dining floor – an opulent space where dark varnished wood meets smooth marble floors. Balinese design features include a traditional aling aling wall located just inside the grand entrance. This is intended to keep out potentially troublesome spirits (only able to move in straight lines, they bounce off). The sweeping deck has been built around the magnificent old camplung tanduk trees, whose gnarled and twisted limbs are so sacred that Balinese priests need to perform special ceremonies before so much as a twig can be removed.
getting started In its heyday as a fashionable club these beautiful trees were part of the dance floor. Now they make a picturesque setting for a sun-downer, and my mojito proves to be a perfect balance of lemon and mint with just a hint of sparkle. The incoming tide sends huge sets of waves barrelling onto the shore,
and as darkness descends the soft glow of lanterns creates a romantic, sensual allure. I toy with the idea of following up with a lychee martini – I hear they are excellent – but there is something about this view that calls for Champagne, and so I opt instead for a sparkling peach bellini. Gado Gado is also well known for its distinctive wine list, with a sommelier on hand to make suggestions and to pair wines with each course of the degustation menu. Chef Quirijn Rademaker (Quib) joins me for a chat. He is obviously in his element here, and tells me that when he arrived on the deck of Gado Gado four years ago, his first thought was, “This is awesome. This is beautiful.” Dutch born, but world-inspired, Quib is a master of innovation. For him the kitchen is a culinary laboratory where he has free reign to experiment with flavours, textures and ingredients, creating ever-changing degustation menus and à la carte variations. When the restaurant closed for renovations last year he took the opportunity to revamp the menu. Glancing through it I detect Mediterranean and French influences, but he tells me that the focus isn’t so much on a particular type of cuisine, but rather on achieving consistency and acquiring quality local produce.
images Courtesy of Chez Gado Gado
to dine for
seared mahi-mahi with sautéed spinach and tomato vinaigrette tomato vinaigrette
la plaga It was his idea to start La Plaga, a 9,000sqm farm in the verdant hills of Tabanan, which supplies the restaurant. He happily spends one day a week at the farm, where vegetables ripening on the vine and herbs and salads flourishing in the greenhouse provide inspiration for his five-course degustation menu. “An à la carte menu is straightforward,” he tells me, “A degustation menu can be more adventurous, a chance to show off.”
the main affair Tonight’s tasting menu starts with tuna tartar, delicate morsels of fish with a sublime combination of Thai yoghurt, avruga caviar and sweet and sour cucumber (fresh from the farm and bursting with sweetness). In a lovely “Quib” touch, dainty coriander flowers give a softer flavour than the more commonly used seeds and leaves. Slipper lobster is next with crispy mushrooms and a mild sweet corn creme, infused with a hint of kemangi (Balinese lemon basil) oil to create a soft and wondrously fragrant flavour. The springy garden cress has been grown from seeds that Quib brought from Holland – it’s these tiny details that create the magic. Grilled tenderloin with spinach puree,
potato croutons and veal jus reduction are up next. But being aware of my preference for vegetarian food Quib has concocted my third course on the spot. Pumpkin soup with curry spices, crunchy slivers of almonds, cubes of sweet beetroot and tart apple. He is smiling when he brings it out – he knows it is superb. In fact, it is absolutely divine; it almost seems wrong for a soup to taste this good.
dessert I have made sure to save space for dessert. Gado Gado’s classic chocolate melted cake has been on the menu for ten years and has a legendary reputation. Also on the degustation menu tonight is Quib’s own creation – Valrhona chocolate coulant with vanilla ice cream. He wants me to try both. I start with the classic melted cake, whose gushing fountain of milky rich chocolate sauce combines beautifully with sweet mango sorbet and tart passion fruit sauce. The coulant is a darker, pure chocolate blend with almonds. One is not better than the other. They are just different. The same could be said of Gado Gado itself. It was fabulous as a club and is equally iconic as a restaurant. What’s important is that the legend lives on.
ingredients • 4 ripe tomatoes • 4 spoons of chopped shallots • Handful of finely cut basil • 3 spoons of olive oil • Juice of half a lemon the preparation Blanch the tomatoes for 15 seconds in boiling water. Take out and put in ice water. Remove the skin, cut into quarters and remove the seeds. Cut the flesh into small cubes. Chop the shallots finely and mix with tomato, olive oil, lemon juice and basil. Season with salt and pepper.
mahi-mahi
ingredients • 4 nice fillets of 180 grams seasoned with salt and pepper the preparation Heat 3 spoons of cooking oil in a pan. Sear fish until skin is golden brown and crisp. Turn over and remove the pan from the heat. Leave the fish in the pan so it can cook slowly. Place the mahi-mahi on a bed of sautéed spinach and top with the vinaigrette. Serve with some nice crusty bread.
• Alison Bone may 2012
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grazing ubud
warung sopa the setting Unassuming, unpretentious and homey: these three adjectives will come to mind as you enter this esoteric vegetarian haven. Sugriwa Street, where Warung Sopa sits, is marked with a row of traditional Balinese homes; kids run around boisterously while the elderly stroll about carrying groceries or a champion rooster. This cacophony of simple life, which we admire in silent observation, reverberates inside the joint, making Warung Sopa so entrancingly authentic, if not quaint. With a policy forbidding shoes on the premises, you may take your place by plopping barefooted down onto the wooden flooring. It makes a nice change from the usual seated dining experience.
the food Offering an alternative to the hodgepodge of cuisines in Bali, Warung Sopa serves an appetising range of vegetarian dishes with just a few options topped with eggs. If you’re a rookie to “green” food, try the homemade ginger ale to ensure smooth sailing between the tasty appetisers and the sweet desserts. The soups are the main stars here, ranging 42
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from sweet corn to green pea. We relish the pumpkin soup, served hot and savoury. The nasi campur main course, which is a new take on local meals, allows you to play the “cook” as you get to pick and choose the ingredients. Or you can save yourself for the novel taste of the Tacorice – a tango between Spanish and Japanese flavours. Pretty much like a salad mix, the Japanese ingredients here are purely original, since Naomi, the co-founder, lends her native heritage to the cooking process. If you’re lucky enough, you’ll get to sample one-of-a-kind
pies, such as the uber-exotic snake fruit pie, made from salak – a queer-looking local fruit.
the unique We enjoyed a chat with the founders of the original Warung Sopa in Madrid, Jorge and Jaime. Intended as a vegetarian café to support Jorge’s beautiful jewellery pieces, the first Warung Sopa enjoyed great success in the Spanish capital for six years before the idea was brought to Ubud by Japanese co-founder Naomi. The concept also underwent a complete transformation, from a
trendy urban indoor joint to a chic semi-outdoor eatery. Every Sunday enjoy an organic natural bounty as Warung Sopa holds a special market offering vegetables, Japanese products and much more - all the best for a quality healthy life.
• chris andre Warung sopa, Jl. Sugriwa no. 36, Ubud, T: 0361 276 589, www.sopa.vg
ubud
betel nut the setting Located on Ubud’s main street, almost opposite the Royal Palace, Betel Nut is perfect for both pedestrians and those arriving by car. With high-canopied covers and blossoming greenery replete with ornamental bird cages, the effect is like dining in a botanical garden. Long tables encourage casual seating in a lovely almost picniclike atmosphere where you can sit and enjoy a meal out in the open. Inside Betel Nut is a twostorey bar that is suitable for all sorts of functions from movie nights to poetry readings. The space was used successfully for the recent BaliSpirit Festival and proved a stylish addition to the world-class festival’s
offerings. Decorated with bold reproductions of early Balinese photography, the predomination of warm natural tones makes the large space feel welcoming.
the food Supporting the concept of slow cooking, this joint uses local ingredients and presents a menu embracing the whole of Asia. It also caters to a variety of dietary requirements. The Indonesian selection of dishes is broad with a twist: a traditional sate lilit, Acehnese and Balinese noodle favourites, curries and meal-like soups. Salads have a healthy presence on the menu, and dishes like shredded chicken in banana flower blossom show off the
chef’s creativity. He also serves simply delicious grilled halloumi and eggplant skewers with a fresh tomato salad. Fish and seafood are showcased in laksas and curries, while meats are grilled and served western or Indonesian style. The Asian-inspired dessert menu is playful, with a date and lychee wonton, served with ginger cream and ginger-infused brûlée as options alongside the pastries and coconut pancakes.
the unique Betel Nut offers diners the chance to enjoy outside dining in the style of Singapore’s Dempsey area, where traffic noise is muffled by the plant life. Watching the world stroll by on a balmy Ubud night, relaxing at the long table, dipping into the krupuk jar while sipping a lemongrass mojito is a pleasant way to pass the time. Ubud is a predominantly earlynight town, and visitors tend to wander about the streets in a way that compliments the smalltown atmosphere. A place like Betel Nut can contribute to this with its delicious dining and happy service. • katy roberts betel Nut, Jl. Raya Ubud, T: 0361 971 426, www.decko.com
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food events ju-ma-na, banyan tree ungasan Pamper your palate with something extraordinary this May as the ever-stylish Ju-Ma-Na offers up a special caviar promotion. Head chef Mandif Warokka, voted hellobali readers’ favourite chef, will be rustling up some artfully sumptuous three- and five-course set dinners which are guaranteed to thrill your taste buds through and through. T: 0361 300 7000
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Got an itch for Chinese soup? Then relish the Chinese steamboat filled with a choice of either seafood or meat cuts. The richly aromatic stock on offer varies from tantalisingly spicy and sour tom yam to some seriously delicious chicken stock. This deal is for a minimum of two people and runs until July 31. T: 0361 752 403
plantation, alila ubud
kayuputi, st regis bali This promises to be one enchanted evening for wine aficionados, as the classy and divine Kayuputi hosts a degustation dinner to remember starring Chateau Grand Mayne from St Emilion, Bordeaux on Monday, May 21. Bearing the premium classification of Saint Émilion Grand Cru Classe, the Merlot-dominated red wines will be pairing up perfectly with some fine gourmet fare crafted by chef de cuisine Agung Gede. The owner and producer of the chateau, Jean Antoine Nony will also be joining the dinner, which commences at 7pm with cocktails and champagne at the bar. T: 0361 847 8111
golden lotus, bali dynasty resort
Showing a full commitment to Bali’s local natural bounty, Alila Ubud has just launched a brand-new Seasonal Tasting Menu which features 100 per cent natural Balinese produce. Concocted by Dutch-born executive chef Eelke Plasmeijer – who previously headed SHY restaurant in Jakarta – and his crack team, the five- or seven-course Seasonal Tasting Menu can be savoured at the Balinese brasserie-style Plantation Restaurant. T: 0361 975 963
taman wantilan, four seasons bali at jimbaran bay Enjoy a delectable Italian wine dinner with Pio Cesare wines on May 17. The fivecourse dinner, prepared by Italian chef Samuele Baudoino starts with a cocktail reception at 6.30pm. A row of Pio Cesare wines is also featured in the wine dinner at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan on May 19. Pio Cesare’s owner, Mr Pio Boffa, the great grandson of Cesare Pio who founded the winery in 1881, will be present during the dinners. T: 0361 701 010
nikko bali resort and spa The power of three will be charming the Nikko Bali Resort this month, as the resort introduces three new food and beverage talents who have hopped aboard to take the Nikko’s culinary offerings to a whole new level. First comes Graeme Ritchie, who takes the helm as food and beverage director. Erick Hardiansyah is next and is the man responsible for wetting the guests’ whistles. And last but certainly not least comes talented young chef Attila Kormoczi, who worked a prior stint down at The Balé. T: 0361 773 377
grazing
kitchen talk
phillip mimbimi the head chef of hu’u bar & grill is a man of simplicity who really knows how to sizzle My regular comfort meal is pork belly, aka babi guling. The best dish I’ve ever tasted is my mom’s homemade fettuccini crab Alfredo. I started cooking when I was 15 years old, making guacamole, brownies, and macaroni and cheese. To be a good chef, one has to be versatile, flexible, willing to adapt, and always ready to change. Be sometimes soft, sometimes hard, be strong and frozen stiff like ice, or cool and fresh like a mountain stream. Be like water my friend, as Bruce Lee would say. The most essential item in the kitchen is a pair of tongs. I use them like an extension of my hands. They are vital for working at the grill, where I tend to spend most of my time. My worst kitchen disaster was running out of squid ink pasta during a plated function for about 300 people. Portion control! 46
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My biggest fear is to be eaten alive by a shark. My signature dish is grilled US prime rib-eye steak. It’s special because it consists of fewer than five ingredients. Simplicity is bliss. My love for food is as beautiful as a woman who doesn’t wear make-up. She is confident and pretty enough to know her face doesn’t need any garnish.
• ChrIs Andre hu’u Bar & Grill, Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak, T: 0361 473 6576, www.huubali.com
RIB-EYE STEAK ingredients US prime rib-eye steak Kosher salt Fresh ground black pepper Grapeseed oil preparation Pre-heat the grill to a high temperature. Lightly splash oil on the meat, then season. If it was refrigerated let it sit at room temperature for ten minutes. Only add salt right before grilling. After grilling allow the meat to rest for two to three minutes before serving.
spirit.ual journey
ingredients 8 grams mint 4 squeezes fresh lime 2 oz (75 ml) fresh sugar cane juice 3 oz (90 ml) light rum or dark rum (for Dirty Mojito) 2-3 oz (60-90 ml) seltzer water method Prepare a big glass for the cocktail. Muddle the mint and add the fresh lime squeezes, sugar cane juice, rum and seltzer water. Stir altogether and top the glass with crushed ice. Garnish with a skinless fresh stick of sugar cane.
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ny name with “mama” in the middle usually calls for a raised eyebrow and a dash of caution. As indeed does this Big Mama Mojito introduced by the sassy and sultry Cubana Bar & Grill. A new kid on Petitenget’s block, this joint is proudly not playing by the rules, sloshing hefty amounts of alcohol into each swankily shaped glass – not to say cheekily shaped (take a look at the curvy-bottom glass on the bar!). For the Big Mama Mojito, you’ll be thrilled to find that instead of the usual single shot poured into the mix, you get triple shots – finished with fresh sugar cane – that will make you giddy in a matter of minutes. And that’s just what rookie salsa dancers need to hurl themselves into the cha-cha-cha moves of the iconic Cuban rumba. There are cigars and scantily-clad ladies to ramp up the party vibe should you feel like it, but above all, this Big Mama Mojito celebrates the zeitgeist of the pre-Castro era when Havana, the capital, was a tropical playground! In a similar vein the Cubana Bar & Grill clings on to that sentiment. The big beverage menu is designed to make a
tippler feel like a kid in a candy shop. Not only a plethora of drinks – be it rum-based or even molecular! – but also the kiss-andtell secret behind each concoction is served up with no false pretence. Equally tempting is the evocative visual persona surrounding the classic brown-hued bar. Old teasing posters drape the walls and traditional fans rotate on the ceiling. The alfresco area is perfect for a lazy afternoon with a glass of cognac and puffs of Cuban cigars. Come over on Sunday afternoon if you’ve got the taste for delectable barbecues. • ChriS AnDre Cubana Bar & Gril, Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 12B, Seminyak, T: 0361 473 7671, www.cubanabali.com
imagE Courtesy of CuBANA BAr & GrILL
do it yourself
big mama mojito
imagE Courtesy of niluh djelantik
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walk in my shoes a household name to her well-heeled patrons, niluh djelantik is bali’s creative baby whose business springs from love
C
anggu is a beautiful place. It has the sort of wide, green open spaces you forget exist if you get stuck in the more populated areas of Bali. At the end of one of the green winding roads sits a large structure, not quite a house yet not quite a workshop. It is in fact a “shoe cave”. That’s how the talented shoe creator Niluh Djelantik describes it. After an hour of searching, we finally find it. Niluh is in the driveway when I pull up and her humble and warm welcome throws me slightly. Where is the attitude common to revered designers I’ve come to expect from other highly successful ones I’ve interviewed? It’s nowhere in sight. She leads me into the “cave”, where a dozen men sit chatting and laughing as they hand stitch, hammer, glue and cobble stunningly crafted shoes – the most sought-after footwear on the planet. I’m struck that the “cave” is so well lit with large floor-to-ceiling windows, and equipped with specially designed workstations that meet all the needs of the workers in what looks like a very comfortable environment. There’s also a glorious smell of leather everywhere. Niluh introduces me to each and every one of her craftsmen, and it’s immediately clear that she has an amazing rapport with them. We then sit over a cup of kopi Bali, and she tells me her incredible story. As a child growing up in Kintamani, raised by a single mother with scant means of income, Niluh remembers saying: “One day I want to have a pair of shoes that fit.” Due to her mother’s limited finances she would have to buy shoes a few sizes too big and stuff tissues
into the toes. This would ensure she got as much use out of them as possible. She bought her first pair of heels in a Jakarta shoe market when she had just turned 20 and begun her first job. With still no idea where her future lay, she dedicated herself to being a diligent employee in secretarial and assistant roles. She soon progressed to a managerial position in an IT company, while studying at night, impressing all with her ambition and eagerness to learn. “I still never dreamed that I’d become my own business woman,” she admits. Yet she was a born sales woman and decided to return to Bali and begin working with Paul Ropp. “My motivation was to expand the company, so I attended trade shows in New York and we grew. My division, under my direction, increased sales by 360 per cent within ten months, and that was in 2002 after the bombing. So while other companies collapsed, we flourished.” After a six-month illness that restricted her travels, she considered her options and while confessing that it was difficult to leave Paul, with whom she’d built a great relationship, she began her own enterprise with his blessing. “Shoe design never entered my mind. But on the first morning in eight years that I wasn’t working, I met someone who opened up a new world for me,” she says of Cedric, the man who would become not only her business partner but also her husband. “Because of my skills in sales, my mother asked me to help a friend who was having trouble selling shoes from a small factory in Legian, and Cedric introduced me to the professional operation of a shoe business.” It started from there, with both of them deciding to create something more upmarket and of better quality. “It became ‘let’s create something I would wear’,” she says. “So the first collection was based on or inspired by our first meeting, and because he became my husband,
it all started with love. It’s the same love that’s still here and the same reason that I’m still here,” she beams. In 2003 their first order was for 3,000 pairs of shoes to be shipped to France, and it became apparent that to retain quality they would need to start their own workshop. She found a small place to rent in Oberoi Street. “I approached the owner and made an offer, telling him I just wanted to make shoes. His response took a week. It was the longest week of my life!” Niluh has 34 staff members today, eight of whom have been with her since the beginning. “They’re comfortable in their same formation – the boys, my shoe artisans,” she says affectionately of her master craftsmen. Niluh’s shoes became sought-after in markets such as Australia, Europe, New Zealand and the US. “We sold to wholesalers for the high-end luxury market,” she recalls. “Every pair was made by hand. It takes a lot of time to make one pair of shoes.” And that’s what makes Niluh different. She’d rather her staff make one pair per day instead of 20 if that’s how long it takes to craft perfection. It’s also the reason she’s resisted offers of expanding with workshops in China and other places. “It’s all based on what they can produce. As long as the quality is there, that’s what’s most important.” Regarding the competition, she adds that she provides services that no one else does. “We offer a lifetime guarantee that our long-term customers are well aware of,” she explains. “If a client bought a pair of shoes in 2004 and the sole needs changing we’ll do it at no charge.” These creations aren’t cheap either, but, as she says, it’s all relative. “Manolo Blahnik’s are expensive, but compared to what – Louboutins?” Her shoes have not walked an easy road however, with the world of big business having taken a bite out of her small and personal Bali operation. She admits she was naïve by may 2012
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allowing her agent for Australia and Europe to hold her brand name of Niluh, which had become very well known in those markets. When she declined their offer of expanding into accessories made in China under her name, things became legally difficult. So she “pushed the old Niluh into a suitcase with a deep memory,” as she puts it, and began building another brand until 2008 when she decided to work under the name Niluh Djelantik. It meant coming up with completely new designs, she says, but if you look closely you can still see her signature style. It’s obvious to me that this was a very intense period for Niluh, and she’s holding back on just how difficult it was for her to feel as though she had lost control of her creative child. The future’s looking bright though with a new approach last year from Switzerland working with around 13 high-end department stores. “Prior to that we were still working with six brands, so each year we need to produce 12 collections – six for each season.”
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Niluh doesn’t follow trends but remains open, so her styles are dynamic. Rather than drawing or sketching, she demonstrates how she wraps a piece of leather around a Shoe Last and explains her idea to her craftsmen. “We’re preparing our 2013 summer collection for Europe, so we have to begin now.” She has a strong and loyal fan following. Some seek her out when they return to Bali. Some of them are keen to see what she’ll produce next, and she’s encouraged to go a little “crazier” by her boys. She confirms that we can expect to see an evolution of the classic beauty that is Niluh Djelantik. Last year she did her first lookbook, and was featured in Harpers Bazaar and Vogue Australia and the UK. But having never done a proper photo shoot, she recognises the need to grow yet again. Two of Switzerland’s most famous fashion publications came to Bali in April to interview her, calling her the “hidden gem” they’d discovered on the Island of the Gods. Sure, she was burned with her previous agent,
but, encouraged by her loyal shoe artisans and the unending international interest, she’s cautiously about to go in new directions. “I’m in discussions with Hong Kong and Monte Carlo, where they pull up in their yachts to go shopping.” It’s been quite a journey so far for Niluh, from selling lingerie in a market in Denpasar next to the es campur sellers and taking naps as a child in a rattan basket. It’s this humbleness that sees her cleaning the bathrooms at the workshop or the boys’ work areas. She retains her personal relationships with each of her many customers, while juggling the motivations and approaches of big industry. This thoughtful, talented, warm and very humble lady from Kintamani is doing it her way. You can purchase Niluh Djelantik from her two outlets in Kerobokan. And look out for her new outlet opening this month on Petitenget Street, opposite Sarong Restaurant. • AnitA Duffin Jl. Raya Kerobokan no. 144, T: 0361 744 6068, 733 074
imagEs Courtesy of niluh djelantik
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room raider Seminyak
the seminyak beach resort & spa
with a larger two-bedroom one. We tested the one-bedroom villa with an ocean view and were impressed with how spacious it was. We also liked the layout of the villa: the semi open-air living room, dining area and kitchen are set on a separate wing from the bedroom. The bathroom is large with a cool bathtub and the sunbeds are impressively set on a wet area directly connected to the swimming pool. In addition, this villa type has one of the best views of the sea in Seminyak.
The published rate for the villas starts at US$ 990 net. The Seminyak Resort & Spa, Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak Beach, T: 0361 730 814, www.theseminyak.com
what about the facilities?
Rebranded and refurbished last year, The Seminyak has morphed into a fine resort. Its prime location on the world-famous beach of Seminyak is definitely a big magnet, and so is the fact that it’s within walking distance of Bali’s hippest restaurants, bars, clubs and shops.
This month, the resort’s signature spa is finally open to the public. Combining the traditional and the modern, this spa has been designed as a fine relaxation sanctuary equipped with the latest spa technologies. Next door is the fitness centre, and by the beach there is a multipurpose venue that is perfect for a wedding or a swanky birthday party. It’s right next to the Sanje Sunset Lounge, which also resides by the beach as well as by a pool, and which can accommodate large groups.
what are the villas like?
what about food and drink?
The Seminyak boasts seven onebedroom villas with ocean views, and three with garden views along
Santan restaurant, set on elevated waterways, offers popular bites from the world over. •
what’s the resort like?
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pan pacific nirwana bali resort what are the rooms like?
Tanah Lot
what’s the resort like? After its rebranding in 2010, the resort underwent a ten-million dollar facelift. Now, the massive resort – 103 hectares! – is much fresher and sits comfortably in the league of top-notch hotels and resorts on the island. It’s located a bit far away from the airport, but Tanah Lot’s natural beauty is worth the trip, especially if you’re feeling a little jaded with the Seminyak crowd.
All of the 278 guest rooms are now revitalised. We tested the Garden Suite, which is the size of a large one-bedroom apartment. This Suite has two separate balconies, a dreamy bed that makes you feel like you’re sleeping on a cloud, and a living room that’s worthy of the setting for a fashionable house party. The hotel also has Golf Suite rooms which boast great views of the
resort’s spectacular golf course. If you’re coming with children, Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali also has ten rooms designed to cater to families. These rooms are equipped with cute bunk beds for your kids, and also a Nintendo Wii. In addition, the resort has a children’s activities centre.
what about the facilities? The hotel’s 18-hole par-72 golf course, designed by Greg Norman, is easily one of the best, one of the most beautiful and most challenging on the island. Integrated with the other hotel facilities, playing here is simply one of the finer things in life. On top of that, the resort’s Nirwana Spa is on offer. Featuring 20 speciality treatment rooms, this big spa complex has an indoor squash court and a gym with machines connected to the internet – yes, you can use Facebook while
The rack rates start from US$ 240++ for a Golf View Room excluding breakfast (valid until December 2012). Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort, Jl. Raya Tanah Lot, Tabanan, T: 0361 815 900, www.panpacific.com/bali
running on the treadmill.
what about food and drink? The resort has as many as seven food and drink outlets. Merica, the resort’s spacious all-day dining restaurant, doesn’t just offer great bites, but also a picturesque view of the sacred Tanah Lot temple. At weekends, Merica Bar offers a brunch with a Bloody Mary buffet – 27 different peppery concoctions to choose from. For smaller bites, try the wine bar, TLC, which serves tasty tapas. And when you’re enjoying one of the three pools, the Pool Grill is ready to keep you from feeling hungry or thirsty. • may 2012
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room raider
alila ubud This May and June, don’t miss an exclusive chance to stay for three days at Alila Ubud and pick up photography tips from Rio Helmi, Bali’s most celebrated travel photographer. Helmi will give tips and guidance to photographers of all levels in the three-day Capture master class. Rio’s repertoire ranges from photographs of Indonesian ethnic groups and remote tribes, to commercial projects for Bulgari and John Hardy. T: 0361 975 963
komaneka at bisma Commemorate the holy day of Vesak with Komaneka’s irresistible deal. Starting from May 5 to May 7 2012, the sophisticated resort in Ubud offers a two-night package that includes daily cultural visit to the Neka Art Museum, dance lesson and woodcarving lesson. Stay at Komaneka Bisma’s Suite Room and enjoy these perks: Balinese massage, 24 hours of movies, music and wireless internet connection, and free usage of gym facilities. T: 0361 971 933
kupu kupu barong
lodging deals
Starting from May 1, Kupu Kupu Barong Villas and Tree Spa introduces its new Barong Room. Spacious, lavish and embellished with Bali’s ethnic and natural charms, the room is designed to be a personal sanctuary. Equipped with complimentary WI-FI connectivity, iPod dock station, DVD/CD player and CD collections, mini bar, and tea and coffee facilities, there’s no need to go anywhere else. The main pool view and bathroom amenities from L’Occitane won’t hurt either. T: 0361 975 478
pan pacific nirwana Members of Qatar Airways Privilege Club, rejoice! The Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort presents their threefold indulgence of Miles, Meals and Memories package. Get appealing room rates by booking at least 14 days in advance, save 15 per cent on dining at the chosen F&B outlets, and gain double mileage values. The offer lasts until May 31 2012. T: 0361 815 900
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spa village resort tembok bali Enjoy the five-star treatment in the traditional Balinese village of Tembok. From May 1 to May 31, save up to £367 for a seven-night stay at the Spa Village Resort’s Kamar Room on a full-board basis. Or stay even longer for ten nights for an alluring price deal. These packages also include return flights with Qatar Airways and transfers. T: 0362 32033
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hunting heed the siren calling beyond the borders of bali and venture out to the gnawing breaks and hidden surfing paradises across the rest of the country
Surfing is more than the act of riding waves. The hunt for those waves is an adventure in itself. It involves exploring the coast, travelling to foreign lands, boarding planes, and creeping across ragged reefs. Then there are the strangers in the line-up, and locals on the beach, and sunset beer. It’s all this that makes surfing so special. For many, Bali has become a familiar surf stomping-ground, more of a staging post for the real adventures that lie across the Indonesian archipelago at large. Thousands of waves, all just a short adventure away. Here are a few of the classics. text & images stingray
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offshore
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g-Land
Java G-Land is a place of legends. A remote tip on the south-east coast of Java, it was one of the first spots beyond Bali that surfers began adventuring to, and stories from there have become part of surfing mythology. This includes the night the tsunami hit, the tiger tracks through the camps, and the railway tracks leading down to the break. G-Land was featured in so many ’80s and ’90s surf movies, was blown up in so many magazines, and was even the site of the first world tour contest in Indonesia. Pretty much any serious surfer can conjure up iconic images of the fast, hollow lefts that break along its reef. Getting there is all about finally inserting yourself into those images, about living the legend. There’s not a lot to do at G-Land besides surf. The place is remote. It’s 60
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jungle-rustic. It’s about as surf-centric as anywhere can be. But that’s kinda the point. Don’t get distracted. Get barrelled. 2
playgrounds
Mentawai Islands The name says it all: Playgrounds. Imagine jungle gyms, swing sets, balance beams and vast slides, then turn them all into fast-moving mountains of water. The name Playgrounds refers to a small region around of 20 different waves, with names like 4 Bobs, A Frames, Bankvaults and Rifles. Whatever the swell is doing, no matter which way the wind blows, or however you’re feeling, there’s always a wave to ride around here. The Mentawai Islands are a stretch of some 70 small islands off the coast of Sumatra. The area is one of the most wave-rich and consistent regions in the world, and it has
long been dominated by the seasonal boat trips that bring a dozen or so surfers out on weeklong live-aboard adventures, zipping from wave to wave as conditions dictate. A more recent phenomenon in the area is the land-based camps, which feature larger rooms, WI-FI and a bit more “head space”. The camps keep speedboats on hand to race surfers around the Playgrounds looking for the day’s best conditions. The waves are world-class. The islands are a postcard paradise. And the whole experience is quite an adventure. Even the Mentawai people are a unique experience: tribal natives untouched by the outside world. That’s how this whole area feels: untouched. Until you bounce off the reef, at least. 3
lakey peak
Sumbawa Sumbawa is a 90-minute flight from Bali. The
locals won’t admit it. Speedboats or not, it’s still a rugged trip. Facilities on the beach are minimal, but there are several simple warungs to sleep and eat at between tides. Beyond that, it’s all about surfing. Desert Point is easily one of the best tube riding waves in the world. The drop is relatively easy, but once you’re in the tube it’s almost like it won’t let you out. The wave gets bigger. The reef gets shallower. Your eyes get wider and wider. But don’t be fooled by the pretty pictures – this wave is for experts only: the reef is shallow and the currents deadly. And competition for the best waves can be ferocious. On top of that, it’s very fickle, requiring very specific swell conditions and only breaking on certain tides. But if you lock into one of those tube rides, nothing else will matter.
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breaks are a short drive from the airport, and there are several decent places to stay near the waves. There are also multiple surfing options. One breaks left. One breaks right. Another goes both ways. And there’s even a few other waves a short walk away. What else could you ask for? A pool. Good food. Friendly locals. Cheap massages. The trip might not feel as adventurous as some other off-Bali treks, but that’s the beauty of Lakey Peak. It has fewer people. There’s less wear and tear, less hassle. You’re still in the middle of nowhere. And the waves themselves are as good as you’ll find anywhere else in Indonesia. Experience a solid wipeout on Scar Reef and you’ll know you’ve travelled far enough. Now go have a margarita by the pool. 4
desert point
Lombok This used to be one of those names people only whispered, a secret spot which hardened locals guarded with blood. They’d camp out for weeks on end, never allowing pros or photographers access. These days, however, it’s used for many a surf campaign shoot, for movie scenes and speedboat-assisted day trips. It’s on the map – even if the old school
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lagundri bay
Nias The discovery of Lagundri Bay is something of a surfing legend. In 1975, two surf pioneers saw a map in a chieftain’s house in North Sumatra and followed it to this bay. The long, hollow right-breaking reef they found was one of the best they had ever seen, and they made a pact to keep it secret. Obviously, the secret is out. Today there are several surf camps and the island of Nias is a well-known mecca for surfers interested in some rugged travel. It’s not easy to get there, and local conditions are still fairly harsh, but that’s part of the charm. Also part of the charm is the easy paddle out, the perfection of the wave, and the magic “reverse current” which sculpts the waves into flawlessness and aids the paddle back to the peak after each ride. The island itself is small and remote, so it’s managed to remain culturally intact, with its own unique tribal rituals. Drop in on a local wall-jumping ceremony and you’ll wonder what planet you’re on. So there are the premiere targets – a few of Indonesia’s most legendary surf adventures. The waves are some of the best in the world, but it’s the getting there and back that makes it all such fun. That’s surfing for you. It’s about loading your boards and climbing onto a singleprop plane, or bouncing down dirt roads in an old-school tuk-tuk. Forget fancy hotels and fine dining. By the time you reach those cool barrels all battered and beaten from 24 hours of nonstop travel, you’re going to think: “Okay, where should we surf next?” That’s how all this started in the first place. • may 2012
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counter culture
the old bambo0
some of the boldest and most spectacular experiments in bamboo construction in the last two decades have taken place here in bali
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maintained suspension bridges utilising plaited bamboo cables functioned safely in China for thousands of years, and several innovative designers and architects including Renzo Piano continue to experiment with forms and methods that take advantage of bamboo’s inherent strengths. Among the most important and attractive of these is that it is a muchneeded ecologically sustainable resource, renewable and extremely fast growing. Some of the boldest and most spectacular experiments in bamboo construction in the last two decades have of course taken place here in Bali. At the forefront of these has been designer, environmentalist and business woman Linda Garland. In 1993, she established the Environmental Bamboo Foundation, an international research, advocacy and educational organisation promoting the benefits of using bamboo for a range of purposes. An aim of the foundation from the outset was to stop the destruction of rain forests in those areas where bamboo grows best. Stands of bamboo, in addition being an alternative to tropical hardwoods and helping to control levels of CO2 in the atmosphere, perform other important functions while growing, serving as windbreaks, preventing erosion on hills and along waterways, and providing shade and shelter. There is a
popular belief that bamboo attracts breezes (a belief that is sometimes – less credibly but intriguingly – extended to musical instruments made of bamboo such as the rindik or tingklik, and the bamboo flute or suling). Could there be some scientific basis for this? Certainly the shade under a bamboo grove feels cooler. It sounds cooler too: there is no mystery about where the idea for windchimes came from. The Panchoran retreat Garland constructed on her 24 acre estate in Nyuh Kuning near Ubud, as well as featuring a spring-fed swimming pool, and villas constructed entirely of bamboo, recycled timber and other materials sourced locally such as alang-alang for the roof, is anchored by enormous shady clumps of living bamboo, their whisper and rattle adding grace notes to the tranquillity and making even the hottest day seem cool and breezy. The interiors of the larger structures on the estate are astonishing, like the insides of giant but very benign creatures, ribs and spines forming inviting spaces, furnished in bamboo, and softly lit at night by lights wired into bamboo tubes. Garland has, over the years, been enlisted to design similar houses and interiors for many members of the A-list glitterati so it’s hardly any wonder that when she put Panchoran on the market recently it was snapped up by Richard Branson. There goes the neighbourhood. The other best-known expat bamboo ambassadors on the island are John and
“The bamboo that bends is stronger than the tree that resists.”
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aw, unpainted cement and natural honey-toned bamboo go beautifully together I think. Simple bamboo blinds or kerai – especially the ones with the wider and thicker than usual slats bound with heavy brown cord – hung over generous openings in a cinder block (batako) wall are enough to achieve the effect I’m talking about. The Japanese vernacular tradition of hanging bamboo blinds or sudare to screen houses from the summer heat offers another take on this simple synthesis of form, style and function. These are sometimes leaned against the wall of houses to form simple awnings. I regularly wonder what it is that I find so appealing. Something in the balance between the solidity of the blocks and the permeability and seeming fragility of bamboo perhaps: the first a barrier, the second a filter. It could be the sheer practicality and cheapness of the materials and the harmony of their opposite qualities; or it could be a feature of the magic of bamboo, that its lightness and organic elegance can transform or humanise even the occasionally grim anonymity of cement. Bamboo’s versatility is legend. Strong, light and flexible, it is a material used for everything from scaffolding for skyscrapers to chopsticks. It is not without its problems – joining lengths of bamboo without compromising the integrity its strength relies on can pose challenges, and its proneness to borers and other pests raises some issues for its application in larger, permanent structures – yet, regularly
Cynthia Hardy who began in jewellery design but later embraced the sustainability and design potential of bamboo across a variety of applications. The most celebrated achievement of their for-profit design organisation PT Bambu – now PT Bamboo Pure – is Green School, an international R-12 school near the village of Sibang Kaja between Ubud and Seminyak. Like Pancoran, Green School is a showcase for the possibilities of bamboo on an enormous, spectacular scale. The school’s graceful, 22-metre long bridge over the Ayung River is alone worth a visit, but this leads on to a series of undulating, thatched, shell-like spirals that house teaching, performance and gathering spaces, their peaks hoisted by helical columns of massive bamboo poles. What has all this done for the cause? It’s true that the Environmental Bamboo Foundation and PT Bamboo Pure both invest funds and energies into grass-roots development projects – particularly around the promotion of growing bamboo in Bali. But while it could be argued that these prestigious developments are important as design laboratories and ways of raising awareness and attracting further investment, the cynics among us could be tempted to regard them simply as places for the wealthy to feel better about themselves; cleaner, greener, more in touch with the planet. Meanwhile however, despite the growth in use of cement and other unsustainable and frankly climatically unsuitable materials, the continued destruction of Indonesian forests, and the rampant spread of the ubiquitous Macvilla, bamboo maintains a place in smaller scale developments and the everyday architecture of warungs and houses. The bamboo Warung 4M, for example, a favourite wayside eatery of mine north of Denpasar, features a long slatted bamboo platform overlooking a broad expanse of ricefields that is guaranteed to catch a breeze. And for those of us on a budget, there’s always a bamboo blind, a design classic if there was ever one. • Peter StePhenSon
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expressions
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state of the art balinese art collector lin che wei lends his shrewd perspective to qualifying artworks as a means of prospective investment
images “leyak” by i ketut budiana; “female nude” by ida bagus njana
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n the recent Bali Maha Sani exhibition a small piece of artwork by I Nyoman Kayun, a Balinese art maestro, fetched an astonishing Rp. 80 million. His other paintings could equally make headlines in view of their estimated price leap – by as much as 42 to 57 per cent, from Rp. 28 to 38 million in August 13, 2011 to Rp. 40 to 60 million in March 12, 2012. This demonstrates that Balinese art, while not so much in the international limelight, is currently going from strength to strength in terms of its nominal value. To gain more insight, hellobali picks the brain of Lin Che Wei, a financial analystcum-Balinese art collector. Our conversation begins with the most rudimentary question of what Balinese art in essence is. “A homegrown art from the Island of the Gods – one of the most unique islands in the country where traces of Hinduism, Buddhism and Europe exist harmoniously,” Wei states confidently. Inspired by the beautifully intricate details and stories behind local artworks, he founded Sarasvati Art Management (www.svastisarasvati.com) in 2010 to support the growth of the industry. As of today Sarasvasti has helped
many young artists, utilising its strong network of top art curators and experts in the country, namely Anak Agung Gde Moening, Jean Couteau, Bambang Budjono and Asikin Hasan, as well as one of the most renowned Indonesian art collectors, Dr. Oei Hong Djien. “Balinese art,” Wei asserts, “has its origins as offerings to the gods, and was then integrated into the traditions and religious rituals exercised by the local community.” He claims it is this infusion of beliefs that distinguishes Bali’s artistic identity from that of “art cities” like Yogyakarta, Jakarta and Bandung. Balinese art has become more commercial over time, commencing from the 1930s during the Pitamaha Era when an influx of high-network foreign tourists and other prominent figures began snapping up paintings from the Kamasan village in the Klungkung regency. It was the start of the Golden Era which lasted till the 1970s, during which local and foreign collectors alike acquired many a Balinese artwork. In contrast, elsewhere in South-East Asia the art scene was still at its infancy. The penetration of the global market also factored in the hype surrounding Balinese art. It brought with it modern may 2012
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Sena with “Dalem Balingkang” and I Nyoman Kayun with “Babi Guling”. Wei adds that I Wayan Darlun and I Wayan Pudja hold court in the realm of sculptural works, while I Wayan Tangguh and I Bagus Anom have carved names for themselves as the leading mask makers.
Sarasvati Art Management, Menara BCA, Grand Indonesia 48th floor, Jl. MH Thamrin no. 1, Jakarta, T: 021 2358 7001, www.svastisarasvati.com
images clockwise “tari jarum” by anak agung gde anom, sukawati; “calonarang” by i nyoman kayun; “arjuna” by i nyoman darlun
technology that catapulted some pioneering local artists onto the world stage, including sculptor I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, who appeared as the main protagonist of a documentary film entitled “Lempad of Bali” by John Darling and Lorne Blair. But perhaps the most pivotal historical point was the founding of the Pitamaha Artist Cooperative in 1936 by Tjokorda Gde Agung Sukawati (the King of Ubud) and Tjokorda Gde Raka Sukawati (the King’s brother) along with two western artists, Walter Spies and Rudolf Bonnet. Aware of its potential commercial value and artistic development, the Pitamaha gave the local art scene a boost and made Spies and Bonnet famous as members of the canonised Balinese painters. In recent decades the steadily increasing number of local native artists has grown prolific in producing works in various mediums. The most promising contemporary painters include I Ketut Budiana with “Dewi Ratih”; I Bagus Putu
A personal tip Wei shares is where the finest pieces of art lurk on the island. He refers to the Nyoman Sumerta Gallery (Banjar Teges, Peliatan, Ubud, T: 0361 975 267) and the districts of Batuan, Keliki, Ubud, Penestanan, Pengosekan and Mas. “But not all Balinese art is good quality,” he warns, “such as Sanur paintings or Tjokot woodcarvings. They can be considered important works of art in themselves but not for their investment value. The same goes for Balinese tribal art, which doesn’t evolve much over time.” Although the overall value of Balinese art seems to have a strong footing, Wei reveals a few challenges that might halt the development. “Holding a solo exhibition is simply hard to do for Balinese artists, considering some may only produce two or three works per year. The lack of publication and media coverage for the artist and the lack of fresh ideas – the subject matter of the works usually revolve around religious rituals such as Ramayana and Mahabharata – are also crucial.” Nonetheless he believes that in the course of five to ten years there’ll be more attention lavished upon local art, and this will certainly push its value to a groundbreaking level. We keep our fingers crossed. • CHRIS ANDRE
community
beg for good? street kids, regarded widely as the elephant in the room in kuta and its surroundings, have been the object of an initiative taken by the organisation ykpa, which hopes to give them a better future
image andi sucirta
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lot of attention has recently been paid to what is happening to the kids of this world. The KONY 2012 campaign (www.kony2012. com), for all its inadequacies, at the very least highlighted the difficulties faced by the many children who have been abused by adults and forced into activities that put them in severe danger, not just physically but also mentally. Correspondingly the wonderful effort of people like Irene Gleeson working in Uganda to rehabilitate children who were once used as soldiers is now being given the attention it deserves. Being a witness to the war herself, Australian Irene Gleeson gives a terse comment: “Kony is not here. Hasn’t been here for five years. So let us address the leftovers, the survivors of Kony’s war.” While globally the spottlight has been on Uganda, here in Bali there are also some dedicated and selfless people working to improve the lives of the street kids, who are an all-too-familiar sight at junctions and traffic lights between the airport and Kuta. It is illegal to give money to these children, and it is wise to obey this law for two reasons. One, the money is of no value at all to that child beyond the thanks received for handing it over to the “boss”; and two, there will be no incentive for the kids to change their ways. Yayasan Kasih Peduli Anak (YKPA) has been taking care of Kuta’s street kids since mid-2007,
when its founder Putu Etiartini decided to do something about those she would see begging on the streets. Four months later she had started up a school – without a building or even a real shelter. Putu gathered the students together on a bamboo mat in front of the local cemetery tucked behind Kuta Square shopping mall. Less than a year later she opened her home as a shelter for some of the homeless children, and the YKPA had official status as a non-profit organisation. Soon more children were being brought into both the school and the shelter. Four years ago the kids from YKPA began to create greeting cards that are for sale in cafés in the area, including Tommy’s Café (Jl. Werkudara/ Rum Jungle Road no. 528, Legian, T: 0361 752 836), a popular family establishment whose staff
can tell you about other ways to help Putu and her associates keep their valuable work going. The greeting cards are a great way to raise awareness as well as much needed money. Although the building for the orphanage is in financial difficulty, the need to care for the children takes priority over the various administrative tasks that might be able to create greater public awareness. Those focusing on the needs of the children simply don’t have the time or resources to create slick campaigns the way KONY 2012 does. But if you’re concerned about the children in the world, you can start helping YKPA with actions based on a simple mindset: “Think globally, act locally”. • katy roberts www.ykpa.org may 2012
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afterhours
in the heat of the night
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n her book “Bachata: A Social History of Dominican Popular Music”, author Deborah Pacini Hernández traces the routes of socio-musical interactions across the Caribbean and into the United States through salsa. She writes, “Salsa was an unmistakable product of the Pan-Caribbean experience: salsa musicians were mostly Puerto Rican, its rhythms were principally Cuban, and its social context was primarily the Latino barrios of New York City.” The music and dance of salsa, like the spicy condiments accompanying Latin
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American cuisine, is created through a mix of ingredients, these being rhythms, songs and dance movements combined across islands and simmered in the barrios of the Big Apple. But in the last thirty years, salsa has unfolded as a distinctly global tale, tunefully told through social dance in bars, cafés and nightclubs in almost every major urban city, from Tokyo to London, and Sao Paolo to Sydney. Salsa dance gatherings bring together dancers passionate about the genre, who share moves, tips and partners during weekly meetings in centres of urban nightlife
across the globe. Here in Bali, salsa heats the dance floors from Kuta to Ubud, enlivening a faithful following of dancers in a sultry, tropical climate not so dissimilar to that of its birthplace over 18,000 kilometres away. I recently sat down with a salsa devotee to ask her about the dance’s appeal in Bali. Rista, general manager of a popular Seminyak café, took up salsa after hearing from girlfriends that it was a great way to shed a few extra pounds. She quickly discovered a style of dance that was both an intense physical workout and an exhilarating way
images courtesy of sos supper club, getty images
let your hair down and offload your stress to the sultry dance of salsa at bali’s hottest bars
to release pent-up energy and relieve stress. She also found a tight-knit community, united by a mutual love of Latin American music and dance. Rista confesses, “To me salsa is elegant, romantic, sexy and feminine. When I dance, my body builds heat and releases sweat and frustration. It’s better physically and emotionally than any workout at a gym.” Rista never misses the salsa dances at Delicious Onion (corner of Jl. Drupadi and Jl. Dhyana Pura, T: 0813 3789 4243, www.deliciousonion.com) or SOS Supper Club (Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, Jl. Abimanyu [Dhyana Pura], T: 0361 737 773, www. bali.anantara.com), which are led by her favourite teachers, local salsa sensations Made and Lilis. Considering myself woefully unable to follow a dance partner, I feared I’d find no place at Bali’s salsa gatherings. I was pleased to learn, however, that several venues offer group salsa lessons, usually taking place before the dance space opens up for the more seasoned dancers. Social dances at Delicious Onion, for example, often begin with a one-hour lesson led by Made and Lilis. These teachers and others are also available for private lessons. At Café Havana in Ubud (Jl. Dewi Sita, T: 0361 972 973, www.cafehavanabali.com), the entire restaurant staff has been trained by salsa aficionados such as Cuban dancer and choreographer Rafael Navarro Gomez to lead even the most hopelessly uncoordinated across the dance floor. Such social dances usually play recorded salsa music or have a DJ spinning out both classic and
modern salsa tunes. But several venues also boast live salsa bands. These places include Bahiana (Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 4, T: 0361 738 662), Obsession (Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 799, T: 0361 730 269), Cubana (Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 12B, T: 0361 473 7671, www. cubanabali.com) in Seminyak, as well as Indus (Jl. Raya Sanggingan, T: 0361 977 684) and Café Havana in Ubud. And wherever Bali’s Latin bands, like Buena Terra and El Ritmo Latino, are found, a dance party is sure to ensue. Since 2011 JP’s Warung (Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 6, T: 0361 731 622, www. jps-warungclub.com) has also hosted several Latin Night events, inviting guest artists to take to the stage and salsa followers to the dance floor for a colourful, sweaty and freeof-charge celebration of all Latin American sounds. Indeed Latin America has blessed the world’s dance floors with much more than straight-up salsa. On any given night during a salsa gathering, one may also find the Dominican bachata or meringue, the Cuban cha-cha-cha, the Argentinean tango, or any fusion throughout the range. One frequent salsagoer told me she believes the provocative modern bachata – a hyper-sexual dance style that originated in ballads of Dominican brothels, filled with sordid tales of murder and debauchery – is somehow more suitable to Bali’s nightlife than the more reserved and elegant salsa. In any case, the demure and dirty can find common ground on Bali’s dance floors on any night of the week. And since the music is Pied Piper for salsa devotees, one will find familiar feet, from one dance to the next. • rebekah e moore
weekly salsa dance schedule Daily
Café Havana, Ubud MonDays (7pM onwarDs)
Delicious Onion, Seminyak Sector Bar (Jl. Hangtuah no. 58, Sanur, T: 0361 287 733, www.sectorbarrestaurant.com) MonDays anD FriDays (7pM onwarDs)
Indus, Ubud FriDays (7pM onwarDs)
SOS Supper Club, Seminyak For a complete schedule of upcoming salsa gatherings, join Salsa Click Bali on Facebook.
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Muslim area in Bali.
NEGARA Bali’s wild west with the best bull races. Predominantly
GUNUNG PRAPAT AGUNG
Ferry to Java
PURA PULAKI, PURA MELANTING
PURA RAMBUT SIWI
LAKE TAMBLINGAN
noisy clubs and dusty streets are the norm here.
INDIAN OCEAN
ULUWATU TEMPLE One of Bali’s most important sea temples. The 11th century temple stands ona tiny promontory 70m above the crashing waves of the Indian Ocean.
BENOA HARBOUR
with beautiful beaches.
NUSA DUA Bali’s most manicured, purpose oriented tourist enclave. Highly secured and luxurious hotels
sports and a village atmosphere.
restaurants and a relaxed, homey atmosphere.
SANUR Charming, low-key with a reef-protected beach, great
taurants and some good boutique shopping.
UBUD Bali’s royal cityis home to a melting pot of creative and bohemian inhabitants from around the world. Streets are lined up with art galleries, res-
suckling pig) on the island.
PURA BESAKIH
Lembongan joined by a narrow bridge.
NUSA PENIDA
Remote island with very traditional culture and spectacular eco diving.
LOMBOK STRAIT
is popular as a day boat trip.
part of the old palace still intact.
KLUNGKUNG Old royal city of the east famous for Klungklung-style painting and Kerta Gosa - The Hall of Justice - the only
sits atop a high headland overlooking the Lombok Straits.
PADANG BAI Fishing village, small resort, public ferries to Lombok. The important and ancient sea temple, Silayukti
famous Virgin Beach.
CANDIDASA East coast beach area with beautiful resorts and hinterlands and also the
shops and the native habitants.
TENGANAN Ancient and traditional village, famous for their double ikat weavings, textile
Karangasem called Tirta Gangga.
UJUNG Just outside Amlapura is the beautiful restored water palace of the Kings of
NUSA LEMBONGAN White sand beaches and reef surf with nice hotels. This small island
th holy bat caves called Goa Lawar.
KUSAMBA Small east coast fishing village famous for salt making, fish satay and
PURA LEMPUYANG
ceremonies and festivals.
BESAKIH Bali’s majestic mother temple located on the slopes of Gunung Agung. This site is host to the island’s most important
and a quiet, relaxing atmosphere.
AMED Remote series of fishing villages with spectacular diving, great snorkelling
TULAMBEN Black, rocky beach with the famous
USS Liberty shipwreck dive site.
GUNUNG LEMPUYANG
the wet season. Do not attempt to scale Agung without a knowledgeable and trustworthy guide.
GUNUNG AGUNG The most sacred mountain on the island and is seen as the “overseer” of Bali. The ascent to the peak is stunning in early dry season morning but is off limits in
NUSA CENINGAN Small sister island to
LAKE BATUR
GIANYAR Regency Capital famous for the best babi guling (roast
GOA GAJAH
PURA BATUR
GUNUNG BATUR
coolest climate on the island.
KINTAMANI This roadside mountain village offers sweeping views over the Batur volcano lake. It has the
TRUNYAN Bali Aga village on the shores of Lake Batur.
BATUR CALDERA High ridge overlooking a vast volcanic panorama.
TANJUNG BENOA A charming mix of star hotels, water
SERANGAN ISLAND
RENON
The central port for the cruising and diving industry.
“millionaire’s row”.
BUKIT Dry, with some of the most spectacular sea views and hotels in Bali. Fast becoming a
best hotels and fresh beachside seafood eating.
PURA LUHUR ULUWATU
NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
JIMBARAN Beautiful curving beach famous for some of Bali’s
ners. Super crowded during high season.
KUTA With a beach stretching from Tuban to Canggu, Kuta is Bali’s prime tourist area with an abundance of shopping, fashion, food, entertainment and great surf for begin-
KEROBOKAN
BEDUGUL
LAKE BRATAN
LAKE BUYAN
PURA BEJI
a great golf course set in the caldera of an extinct volcano.
BEDUGUL Cool mountain town with markets bursting with fresh produce. Known for its scenery, three lakes, the important Ulum Danau Bratan Temple, and
BATU BELIG
PURA TANAH LOT
SEMINYAK Super stylish haven for the well-to-do jet set types. Home to some of the best bars and restaurants in Bali.
sanctuary is a very popular sunset spot.
TANAH LOT The most famous of the sea temples dotted along Bali’s south coast. This 18th century
PURA LUHUR BATUKARU
GUNUNG BATUKARU
LEGIAN Upmarket continuation of the Kuta area and the former “it” area that’s getting older. Traffic jams,
CANGGU Just beyond the far end of the tourist strip, the wild surf, classy hotels and the used-to-be deserted beaches make for a good escape.
but take a guide or, at least, a driver.
DENPASAR Bali’s capital city, and most important. A hectic rush of traffic, shops, one-way streets and Government offices. Lots to discover
be Bali’s royal kingdom.
SINGARAJA Northern capital and first Dutch port in Bali. Used to
LOVINA BEACH The beach to spot dolphins in the bay during the break of dawn.
Capital of one of Bali’s most prosperous regions and centre of a huge rice growing industry.
TABANAN
with views over the whole of southern Bali.
JATILUWUH Amazing panoramas on the slopes of Mount Batukaru
its great surf and spectacular scenery.
MEDEWI Known among the surfing community for
PURA GEDE PRANCAK
GUNUNG MESEHE
GUNUNG MUSI
BALI SEA
GUNUNG MERBUK
GUNUNG SANGLANG
Great diving too.
PEMUTERAN Untouched black sand beaches with a few high-end accommodations.
MENJANGAN ISLAND
Offshore eco resort and great wall diving.
Bali is a province of the Republic of Indonesia governed by an elected Governor and a local parliamentary assembly. The provincial capital is Denpasar where most government offices are located in the Renon area. Bali is divided into eight regencies: Jembrana, Buleleng, Bangli, Tabanan, Badung, Gianyar, Klungkung and Karangasem. Bali is predominantly Hindu in culture and great respect should be shown for all festivals, events and ceremonies, which will most likely be of religious significance. Bali is an island with an area of 5700 sq km and a population of around 3.5 million. Most live and work in the increasingly urbanised area of Denpasar linking to Sanur, Kuta, Legian and Jimbaran. Outside those areas , Bali is more of an agricultural island with a system of paddy fields and irrigation established hundreds of years ago. Balinese society is based on the pura (temple) which is the centre of religious, civil, family and social life with the banjar as the cohesive centre of the community. Visitors are advised to show great respect and patience for all culture and social systems when in Bali.
Java by ferry.
GILIMANUK A small port town to crossover to
Ferry to Java
starling as well as deer civets, wild buffalo and monkeys.
WEST BALI NATIONAL PARK 760 sq km of preserved natural environment. Home of Bali Rothschild
december 2011 february 2012
Jl.Bakung Sari
Jl. Raya Kuta
Made’s Warung
ESC/Sky Garden
Vi Ai Pi
ass N Jl. Byp
Jl. Raya
to Jimbaran & Nusa Dua
Rai gurah
march 2012
Ngurah Rai International Airport
Domestic Domestic Terminal Terminal
Jl. Kediri
BIMC Hospital
Le Jardin
La Plancha
nyu
Obsession
Santa Fe
Galaxy
The Breezes/The Spa
De Ja Vu O-CE-N by Outrigger Zanzibar
Jl.Arjuna/Double Six
Cocoon
The Royal Beach Seminyak
JP’s
Jl.Kerobokan
Jl. Kunti
Word of Mouth
SIP
Jl. Nakula
My Property
Funky Princess
By The Sea
Biasa
Puravida
Dinda Rella
Spa Venus
SIP Sunset Grill
The Amala
Glo Spa
Bali Deli Kanishka Villas The Villas/ Mannekepis Prana Spa Beachgold Warung Made / Milo’s Lily Jean
The Haven
Body & Soul
Pantarei Ryoshi
Paul Ropp
Bamboo Blonde Why Not Shop
Queen’s Tandoor
Sabbatha Miss Milne
Innuendo
Cafe Moka
Jari Menari
Jl.Tangkuban Perahu
Mama San
Kendra Gallery
La Sal
a bim Jl. A
Bahiana Red Room
ana Jl. Laksam
Delicious Onion
Art Cafe
Gado-Gado
Anantara
Seminyak
The Oberoi
Ku De Ta
The Seminyak BeachResort & Spa
The Elysian
Paul’s Place
Sea Circus
Seminyak Square Milo’s Oberoi
Jl. Kayu Jati
Maru
The Legian
Samaya/ Breeze
La Luciola
Sentosa Villas/ Evo
Sarong Taman Merah Spa Biku Living Room
Silq Villas/ Crispy Pata
Villa Air
Metis Rob Peetom
Sardine
minyak
Harris Hotel
Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali
Aston Kuta Jl. W ana Segara
The Rani
Kunyit Bali
Kin Khao Restaurant Queen’s of India
Dijon
Bali Shell Museum
Carrefour
Rip Curl
Essence Spa
Sushi Tei
Bali Bakery
Mall Bali Galeria
k lanti tih Je Jl. Pa Istana Kuta Galeria
l Papaya
Hu’u
nget Jl. Petite
Jemme/Cafe Jemme
Gourmet Cafe W Retreat & Spa Bali Island Villas Potato Head Semara Resort & Spa
Naughty Nuri’s
Jl. Batu Belig
Grocer & Grind
Karma Beach, La Barca
Jl. Raya Se
International International Terminal Terminal
Envy
TUBAN
Ramada Bintang Bali
Hotel Santika Bali
Bali Dynasty / Golden Lotus
Ma Joly
Hard Rock Hotel Hard Rock Cafe
Flapjaks
Kori
Eikon M Bar Go
Villa De Daun
Nero
Legian 101
Rosso Vivo Maccaroni Club Uluwatu Tj’s
Twice Diner
KUTA
Harris Resort
Kama Sutra
Alam Kul Kul The Stones
Red Square
Pullman
ti Jl. Melas
ya Jl. Sriwija
Gabah Kuta Paradiso Hotel Stadium + Flapjaks Blue Fin Kuta Garden Hotel Seafood House Ryoshi hellobali Office Batan Waru Bubba Gump Discovery Mall Waterbom Park Oceans27 Ifiori Ristorante Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel
Legian Beach Hotel
LEGIAN
Padma Resort Bali at Legian a adm Jl. P i Sri Jl. De w
Ramada Resort Camakila
jo on
to Denpasar Jl. Sunset Road
na Jl. Puri Bagus Teru
Jl. N akula
Jl. Im
aB
Kuta
ta i Ku a
Mykonos
De Ja Vu O-CE-N by Outrigger Zanzibar
gian
aP laz
The Junction Press Ban Cafe This is a Love Song
Jl. Double Six
Jl.Drupadi
april 2012 Jl. Le
tik
Chandi Kaizan Cafe Bali Khaima Trattoria
Jl.Mertasari Ultimo Rumours Bamboo Blonde Phoenix Religion Milo’s Bazaar By The Sea Lily Jean Nico Perez Paul Ropp SKS Magali Pascal Red Carpet Corner Store
82
anta Jl. P
Warung Itali
n
Bale Bali
egia Jl. L ahit Jl. Majap
Jl. Ka r
oad set R
to Sanur
n Jl. Su
Tuban
73
TAO may.pdf
1
4/13/12
10:58 AM
New Kuta Golf
Ayana Resort and Spa
ai
Gending Kedis
to Pecatu, New Kuta Golf and Bvlgari Resort
Jl.Bukit Perm
Jenggala
Garuda Wisnu Kencana
Pepenero
Karma Jimbaran
Villa Balquisse Paul Ropp
to Semara Uluwatu, Banyan Tree Ungasan, Alila Villas Uluwatu and Karma Kandara
Four Seasons
Kupu Kupu Jimbaran / Jimbaran Corner
Jimbaran Seafood
InterContinental Bali
Jimbaran Puri Bali
Gourmet Garage
Kayumanis Jimbaran
Keraton
By The Sea
Jl.Uluw atu
Gourmet Garage
Warisan Casa Furniture Benoa Square
Jl.Bypass Ngurah Rai
Jimbaran
Nusa Dua
Jl.B yp as s
an lat Se ua D a
The Bale
Amanusa
Novotel Nusa Dua
St. Regis
Bali Golf & Country Club
Ayodya
ai M eng iat
Club Med
Novotel Nusa Dua
Grand Hyatt Bali
Bali Nusa Dua Bali Collection Theatre
Melia Bali
The Laguna
Westin
Nusa Dua Beach
Kayumanis/ Piasan, Tetaring
Museum Pasifika
Pan t
Courtyard by Marriott
Pantai Mengiat
us Jl.N Nikko Bali Resort
Ng ur ah Ra i
Melia Benoa
The Royal Santrian
Conrad
The Oasis
Aston Resort / Giorgio Restaurant
Grand Mirage
The Bali Khama
Novotel Benoa
SAKALA
Tao Bali
Queen’s of India
Ramada Resort Benoa
a Jl. P rata m
t Be Jl.
o
1
Sudamala Suites & Villas
s au Po
Glo Spa
a ng
Jl.Tukad Ayun
Jl.Dan
Jl.Bypass Ngurah Rai
The Gangsa Villas
ng
Blue Eyes
Jl.Tandakan
Jl.Danau Buyan
Kopi Bali Restaurant
Uluwatu
Bali Hyatt
Cafe Batu Jimbar Pantarei Star Kafe
Griya Santrian
Mercure Resort Sanur
Stadium Cafe / Flapjaks Kamuela Villas Mezzanine Puri Santrian Sanur Beach Hotel / Basilico
Massimo
Telaga Naga
La Baracca
Ryoshi
Flasbacks
Sanur Beach Market
Grand Bali Beach
The Village Cucina Italiana
Street Cafe
Warung Pregina
The Cat & Fiddle
Jl.Sindhu
Deco Gallery
Arena
Jl.Segara Ayu
Museum Le Mayeur Sector Bar & Restaurant
Bali Beach Golf Course
Jl.Hang Tuah
Jl. Nyuh Kuning To Tony Raka Gallery
Museum Rudana
PENGOSEKAN
Meng’s
Agung Raka Gallery
Agung Rai Museum of Art
Cafe Arma
Pizza Bagus
Ubud Village Resort
Warung Enak
Monkey Forest
Coffee & Copper
SAYAN
Kayumanis Private Villas
atan
Jl. Peli
TEBESAYA
baw an
Jl. Je m
PADANG TEGAL
Bunute
Maya Ubud
Blanco Renaissance Museum
To Naughty Nuri’s, Kemiri, Mozaic and Indus
Kamandalu
Jl. Raya
Andong
ro Ga ndung
Tawar
Ubud Property
Jl. TJe
Jl. Tirta
Neka Gallery
TAMAN KLOD
Viceroy
To Elephant Safari Park
Jl. San dat
Jl. San dat
Jl. Ka jeng Bumbu Bali Jl. S uwe ta Waka Di Ubud Ume Palace
Ryoshi The Paon
Bridges Bali Murni’s Warung Ibah Luxury Villas
Jl. B ism a
Batan Waru Nom Clear Cad afe
Pura Dalem Puri
Jazz Cafe
Bali Buddha Bar
Jl. Jeb awan
Jl. Sugriwa
Jl. Ha nom an
Mon key Fore st Ro ad
PELIATAN
Dirty Duck
nga
Jl. Sero
Agung Rai Gallery
Siam Sally
Jl. Raya Pengosekan
Komaneka at Bisma
Waka Namya Resort
CAMPUHAN
The Mansion/Indochine
Jl. D
Sanur Paradise Plaza
Delicious Onion
Ubud
Pundi Pundi
Tama Gallery
Three Monkeys Komaneka
Cafe Wayan Bumi Bali
Gaya Art Space
ewi Sita
Sanur
mblingan Jl.Danau Ta
Alamkara Lamak
Royal Kamuela Villas Verona
Four Seasons Resort Paul Ropp
a
Ary’s Warung
To Furama Villas & Spa Furama Xclusive Villas & Spa
Macan Tidur
Jl. Cok Putr Jl. Gunung Sari
Ubud Art Market
aya Ub ud Jl. R
Betelnut`` mpu han
april 2012
Jl. C a
86
a nd
january 2012
75
navigator DINING TUBAN/KUTA/LEGIAN Bella Rosa Italian Restaurant Padma Resort Bali at Legian Jl. Padma no. 1, Legian T: 0361 752 111 Black Canyon Coffee Discovery Shopping Mall Unit MG Jl. Kartika Plaza T: 0361 769 720
Flying Fish Seafood Restaurant O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger Jl. Arjuna no. 88X, Legian T: 0361 737 400 ext. 7526 Fresh seafood, live teppanyaki bar, sushi and sashimi, served indoor and outdoor terrace overlooking the Legian beach. Gabah Restaurant & Bar Jl. Bakungsari, Kuta T: 0361 751 864 Authentic culinary tastes of local, Indonesian and Asian specialties set in a relaxing, romantic pool view setting. Gateway of India Jl. Pantai Kuta no. 11 T: 0361 754 463 Golden Lotus Restaurant Bali Dynasty Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban T: 0361 752 403 Offers all the favourites including Peking Duck, spicy Szechuan and classic Cantonese. H2O Bali Dynasty Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban T: 0361 752 403 Poolside restaurant and bar equipped with a rooftop sunset deck. Hard Rock Café Jl. Pantai Kuta T: 0361 755 661
Bluefin Jl Kartika Plaza T: 0361 764 100 Traditional and contemporary Japanese.
Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 766 303
Café LemonGrass Jl. Melasti, Kuta T: 0361 369 8652 Envy Jl. Wana Segara no. 33, Tuban T: 0361 752 527 Serves delicious pastas, sumptuous steaks and seafood. ESC Jl. Legian, Kuta T: 0361 756 362 American style thick hotcakes, brunch, tapas, pizzas and heaps more. Open 24 hours.
may 2012
Flapjaks Jl. Kartika Plaza, Complex Kuta Sidewalk T: 0361 763 100 Think pancakes, home-made gelato and other American delicacies.
Bianco Jl. Padma, Legian T: 0361 760 070 The first restaurant on the island that offers a mixture of Italian and Indonesian cuisines served in a colonial setting.
Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 754 028 Menu dedicated to dishes made of shrimp served in a setting decorated with “Forest Gump” paraphernalia.
76
Feyloon Jl. Raya Kuta no. 98 T: 0361 766 308
Ifiori Ristorante Italiano Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban T: 0361 750 158
Kin Khao Jl. Kartika Plaza no. 170, Kuta T: 0361 757 808 Authentic Thai restaurant serving aromatic curries, soups and salads. Kori Restaurant & Bar Poppies Lane II, Jl. Legian, Kuta T: 0361 758 605 Serves a wide range of Western and Balinese cuisine complemented by an extensive wine list. Kunyit Bali Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 759 991 Authentic Balinese cuisine in a relaxed setting. Highly recommended dishes are the crispy fried duck and bebek betutu. La Plancha Jl. Double Six Beach T: 0878 6141 6310
Lais Legian Beach Hotel Jl. Melasti, Legian T: 0361 751 711 La Cucina Italian Restaurant Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 751 067 Maccaroni Club Jl. Legian no. 52, Kuta T: 0361 754 662 Ma Joly Restaurant & Lounge Sandi Phala Hotel Jl. Wana Segara, Tuban T: 0361 753 780 Mama’s Jl. Raya Legian T: 0361 761 151 Nero Bali Mediterranean Restaurant & Lounge Jl. Legian Kelod no. 384, Kuta T: 0361 750 756 Brilliant Mediterranean dishes and a wide selection of imported wines Oceans27 Discovery Esplanade (Beach Front) Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 765 027, 755 522 Ocean Terrace Legian Beach Hotel Jl. Melasti, Legian T: 0361 751 711 Papa’s Limoncello Alam Kul Kul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta T: 0361 755 055 Queen’s of India Bali Dynasty Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban T: 0361 765 988/761 099 Try the Goa prawns or mutton vindaloo, kulfi, the gulab jamun or their special chocolate fudge brownies. Rosso Vivo Jl. Pantai Kuta T: 0361 751 961 Stylish yet simple and serves fine Italine bites. Ryoshi Japanese Restaurant Bali Garden Hotel Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 766 302 Bali’s most recognisable purveyor of authentic Sushi and Sashimi. Outlets in Seminyak, Sanur and Ubud. Salt Restaurant & Lounge Jalan Raya Pantai Banjar Legian Kelod, Kuta T: 0361 766 100 Sands Hotel Santika Premier Beach Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza T: 0361 751 267 Serves an array of tasty tapas. House speciality is the hot stone cooking concept. Wide selection of wines. Seafood House Complex Kuta Sidewalk Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 763 900 Cantonese style and Chinese Cuisine at its finest.
Stadium Cafe Jl. Kartika Plaza T: 0361 763 100 Sports cafe with three giant screens and a lot of sports memorabilia. Menu is also extensive, as is the bar. Sushi Tei Jl. Sunset Road, Kuta T: 0361 780 7744 / 7288 / 7455 Higher-end sushi destination complete with sushi train in an oriental minimalist setting. Try their sashimi salad. Taman Ayun Café & Lounge Padma Resort Bali at Legian Jl. Padma no. 1, Legian T: 0361 752 111 Take Jl. Patih Jelantik T: 0361 759 745 Authentic Japanese cuisine with an innovative menu relying on simple preparation with dynamic flavours by chef Okamoto San. Tenkai Japanese Restaurant Padma Resort Bali at Legian Jl. Padma no. 1, Legian T: 0361 752 111 The Balcony Restaurant Un’s Hotel Jl. Benesari no. 16 T: 0361 757 409 The Tenku Japanese Restaurant Jl. H. Juanda T: 0361 935 1161 Authentic Japanese cuisine in a beachfront setting. TAO Beach House Restaurant Ramada Resort Camakila Jl. Pura Bagus Teruna, Legian T: 0361 752 877 A beautifully decorated restaurant overlooking the ocean and serving delectable Thai fare. TJ’s Poppies Lane I, Kuta T: 0361 751 093 Serves tasty Mexican cuisine and margaritas since the dawn of time in its tranquil indoor garden setting. Warung Made Jl. Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 755 297 Jl. Raya Seminyak, T: 0361 732 130 A Kuta institution. Always jammed to the rafters. Offers a winning combination of good food, value for money and stylish décor. Zanzibar Jl. Arjuna, Kuta T: 0361 733 529 Great Mediterranean food that will satiate the upper-class beach bum.
Atrium Restaurant & Bar Semara Resort & Spa Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak T: 0361 847 6661 Bale Bali Jl. Kunti no. 4BB T: 0361 732 731 Chinese food, vegetarian food, and noodles of all kinds. Bistro Batu Kali Amadea Resort & Villas Jl. Laksmana no. 55 T: 0361 847 8155 Biku Jl. Petitenget 888, Kerobokan T: 0361 857 0888 Set in a 150 year-old-teak-wood joglo (Javanese traditional house) and serves the island’s best tea rituals. Breeze The Samaya Bali Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak T: 0361 731 149 Beachfront dining at its best! Hearty Asian/European cuisine complements one of the best beach views in Seminyak in a relaxed but very chic al fresco setting. Café Bali Jl. Laksmana, Oberoi, Seminyak T: 0361 736 484 Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and cocktails galore at this beautifully decorated colonial-style restaurant. Cafe Degan Jl. Petitenget No. 9 T: 0361 744 8622 Café Jemme Jl. Raya Petitenget no.28, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 2392 A beautiful restaurant that serves up modern dishes sourced locally.
Queen's Rev3.indd 1
2/14/12 3:17 PM
Cafe Moka Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 731 424 Capris Bar & Restaurant The Royal Beach Seminyak Jl. Camplung Tanduk, Seminyak T: 0361 730 730 Chandi Jl. Laksmana no. 72, Seminyak T: 0361 731 060 Hip restaurant offering excellent pan-Asian fares. Chat Cafe Jl. Kunti I no. 18 T: 0361 732 303 Chez Gado Gado Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 99 T: 0361 736 966
66 Corner Jl. Werkudara no. 23 (jalan 66) T: 0361 730 403
Cocoon Beach Club Jl. Double Six, Blue Ocean Terrace T: 0361 731 266
SEMINYAK/ KEROBOKAN
Cornerstore Jl Oberoi no. 10B T: 0361 730 276
Art Café JL Sari Dewi 17 T: 0361 736 751
may 2012
77
Crispy Pata Jl. Petitenget 27c T: 0361 847 5461 Cool, cozy and delicious. Serves bites from Phillipines, especially the crispy pork leg. Cubana Bar & Grill Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 12B T: 0361 473 7671 Delicious Onion Corner of Jl. Drupadi and Dyana Pura T: 0813 3789 4243 A down-to-earth eatery serving Asian flavours. Try the crispy roast pork and the pineapple margaritas. Earth Café Jl. Laksmana no. 99, Oberoi T: 0361 736 645 Organic, macrobiotic, mixed international vegetarian cuisine. Evo Sentosa Villas and Spa Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget T: 0361 730 333 A casual, energetic Italian-styled Taverna serving Italian and Mediterranean style dishes. Fire W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak Jl. Petitenget, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 8106 The dramatic kitchen awakens for breakfast, and sizzles at sunset. This inviting grill restaurant features fire cooked prime meats and sea-fresh seafood. Gateway of India Jl. Camplung Tanduk no. 10, Seminyak T: 0361 732 940 Gourmet Café Jl. Petitenget no. 77A T: 0361 847 5115 Serving an all-day breakfast menu and the opportunity to create your own salads and sandwiches. Grocer & Grind Jl. Kayu Jati no. 3X, Petitenget T: 0361 730 418 Deli and lounge style restaurant serving high quality home style soul food in a chic surrounding. hu’u Bar & Grill Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak T: 0361 473 6576 Husk Restaurant and Bar The Royal Beach Seminyak Jl. Camplung Tanduk, Seminyak T: 0361 730 730 Java Jive Café Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 469 T: 0361 473 6656 JP’s Warung Club Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 6, Seminyak T: 0361 731 622 Kafe Warisan Jl. Raya Kerobokan no.68 T: 0361 730 710 Kaizan Fine Japanese Dining Jl. Kayu Aya no. 33, Kerobokan T: 0361 747 2324
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may 2012 2012
Karma Beach Batu Belig Jl. Batu Belig T: 0361 361 8888
Pantarei Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 17 T: 0361 732 567
Khaima Moroccan Restaurant Jl. Laksmana, Kerobokan T: 0361 742 3925
Potato Head Beach Club Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak T: 0361 473 7979 An all-function beach club with a quirky design, a fine bar and restaurant.
Kobe Tei Jl. Petitenget no. 17e T: 0361 733 192 Ku De Ta Jl. Kayu Aya no. 9, Seminyak T: 0361 736 969 Modern cuisine in a minimalist open plan setting where people go to see and be seen. La Lucciola Jl. Petitenget T: 0361 730 838 This long time beachside favourite offers great Italian food, sunsets, brunch and dinners. La Sal Jl. Drupadi, Seminyak T: 0361 738 321 Spanish restaurant /lounge serving tapas and home style cooking in a garden courtyard setting. Le Spot Coffee Shop & Restaurant Bali Deli. Jl. Kunti no. 117X, Seminyak, T: 0361 738 686 A laid-back outdoor terrace that serves a selection of hearty sandwiches, pastas and salads. Lilin Potato Head Beach Club, Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak T: 0361 473 7979 Serves home-cooked Asian cuisine and fresh tapas in a cosy setting with live seafood tanks on one side. Lobre Bar & Grill Jl. Drupadi II no. 12 T: 0812 3647 5969 Mama San Jl. Raya Kerobokan no. 135, Br. Taman T: 0361 730 436 Mannekepis Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 2 T: 0361 847 5784 Belgian bar-bistro scene where diners can indulge on fine steaks and a selection of refreshing beers to a backdrop of lively jazz and Blues. Métis Jl. Petitenget no. 6, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 7888 Chef Nicolas “Doudou” Tourneville brings his legendary talent and culinary artistry to the table with a masterful combination of French Mediterranean cuisine. MYKONOS Jl. Laksamana no. 52, Oberoi T: 0361 733 253 Authentic Greek culinary gems complete with Greek music. Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Batubelig no .41 T: 0361 847 6722 OM Beach Lounge Restaurant Jl. Batu Bolong Pantai, Canggu T: 0361 960 4121
Prana Restaurant The Villas Bali Jl. Kunti no. 117x, Seminyak. T: 0361 730 840 Organically grown vegetables and salads are presented on the health menu along with special herbal ingredients and cleansing drinks. Queen’s Tandoor Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 73 T: 0361 732 770 / 771 Rumours Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak T: 0361 738 720 Rush Bamboo Restaurant & Bar The Elysian 18 Jalan Sari Dewi, Seminyak T: 0361 730 999 Sabeen The Haven, Jl. Seminyak no. 500 T: 0361 738 001 Sardine Jl. Petitenget no. 21, Kerobokan T: 0361 4 73 8202 Sarong Jl. Petitenget no. 19X, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 7809 Renowned Australian chef Will Meyrick takes food travellers on an adventure around the flavours of South-East Asia. The menu is designed to encourage sharing and discovering new tastes, Sasa Jl. Kayu Aya no. 78 T: 0361 736 638 SIP Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 730 810 A French bistro in the heart of Seminyak, serving the nicest foie gras and the best selection of wines on the island. SOS Supper Club Anantara Seminyak Resort Jl. Abimanyu, Seminyak T: 0361 737 773 Starfish Bloo W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak Jl. Petitenget, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 8106 Overlooks the Indian Ocean. Chef Jack Yoss shares a culinary vision inspired from his adventures and life experiences, evident in his unique approach to Pan Asian cuisine. Studio 5 Café Cure Jl Abimanyu, Seminyak T: 0361 847 5794 Eastern and Western food focusing on health and beauty.
Tapping Shoes Potato Head Beach Club 2nd fl, Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak T: 0361 300 7979 Modern French fine dining in intimate ambiance that just oozes stylish romance. The French Kitchen Jl. Petitenget no. 2X T: 0361 847 5394 The Junction Jl. Kayu Aya/Jl. Kayu Putih T: 0361 735 610 The Living Room Jl. Oberoi, Petitenget, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 5735 The Restaurant The Legian Bali. Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak T: 0361 730 622 Contemporary world cuisine highlighting flavours from Japan, Thailand, India, Indonesia, Europe and the USA. The Santan Restaurant The Seminyak Beach-Resort & Spa T: 0361 730 814 Modern dining pavilions surrounded by waterways and tropical greenery. Innovative dishes bursting with flavour are created from the freshest ingredients to tantalise the tastebuds. Trattoria Cucina Italiana Jl. Laksmana, Oberoi T: 0361 737 082 Ultimo Italian Restaurant Jl. Laksmana no. 104X, Seminyak T: 0361 738 720 / 21 Vivai Seminyak Square, Jl. Kayu Aya no. 1 T: 0361 738 016 Wah Wah Gourmet Burger Winebar Jl. Laksmana no. 11A T: 0361 736 585 Warung Eropa Jl. Petitenget 9D, Kerobokan T: 0361 747 1771 Serves one of the tastiest crispy duck on the island. Warung Italia Jl. Kunti no. 2 T: 0361 737 437 Italian food served up warung-style. Wild Orchid Anantara Seminyak Resort Jl. Abimanyu, Seminyak T: 0361 737 773 Imaginative cooking from Thailand’s diverse culinary regions combining fresh vegetables, traditional herbs and exotic spices. Word of Mouth Kunti Arcade Shop 10 Jl. Kunti no. 9 T: 0361 847 5797 Zuittion / Cafe Zucchini Jl. Kayu Aya no. 49 T: 0361 736 633
NUSA DUA / TANJUNG BENOA Allspice Restaurant & Bar The Royal Santrian. Jl. Pratama T: 0361 778 181 Contemporary cuisine meets cutting-edge design in this restaurant-cum-martini bar. Specialises in Thai, teppan, and sushi. Arwana The Laguna Resort & Spa. Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 327 This beachfront dining restaurant and oyster bar features a choice of Continental and Asian creative dishes as well as ultra fresh and live seafood. Banyubiru The Laguna Resort & Spa. Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 327 Cuisine from around the world overlooking a majestic lagoon. Boneka St. Regis Bali Resort. Nusa Dua T: 0361 847 8111 A breakfast and brunch experience with arguably the most decadent early doors’ dishes being served on the island. Bumbu Bali Jl. Pratama, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 771 256 By the C Bar & Restaurant Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa Jl. Pratama no. 68X T: 0361 773 577 de Opera Beach Club The Bay, BTDC Nusa Dua T: 0361 894 8168, 894 8178 Eight Degrees South Conrad Bali, Jl. Pratama Raya no. 168 T: 0361 778 788 Faces The Balé Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: 0361 775 111 Giorgio Restaurant Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa Jl. Pratama no. 68X T: 0361 773 577 Hamabe Japanese Restaurant The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 906 Features dining choices from sushi bars to teppanyaki to private tatami rooms. Ikan Restaurant & Bar The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 906 Seafood, Balinese specialties and Western cuisine in a casual oceanfront setting. Kayuputi St. Regis Bali Resort. Nusa Dua T: 0361 847 8111 Chef Oscar Perez integrates Asian flavours and classic Western influences, offering Wagyu beef from Australia, Kobe from Japan, seafood from local waters as well as imported specialties.
Maguro Asian Bistro Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa T: 0361 771 210 Piasan Kayumanis Nusa Dua T: 0361 770 777 A chic fine dining restaurant, capturing the ritual of typical Italian home dining. Raja’s Balinese Restaurant Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa T: 0361 771 210 Raja’s cuisine is seriously Balinese fare, unmodified. Although it serves original Balinese food, Raja’s is certified as a halal restaurant. RIN Conrad Bali, Jl. Pratama Raya, no. 168 T: 0361 778 788 Contemporary Asian flavours, embraces the five basic tastes of sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami. SAKALA Jl. Pratama no. 88, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 774 499 Refined and alluring modern classic dining with prime meats and fresh catch in smart décor, overlooking the pool and sea with over 400 sublime wines and fabulous cocktails. Get a table at the seaside terrace for digestifs. Salsa Verde Grand Hyatt Bali, Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 234 Poolside Italian restaurant serving a selection of antipasti, pizzas and seafood. Suku Conrad Bali. Jl. Pratama Raya no. 168, T: 0361 778 788 Offers cuisine using Balinese and Indonesian flavours all enjoyed al fresco with panoramic views over the Indian Ocean. Tetaring Kayumanis Nusa Dua T: 0361 770 777 Signature restaurant of Kayumanis featuring an exciting fusion of Western and South-East Asian specialties. The Italian Restaurant Amanusa Nusa Dua T: 0361 772 333 Try the daily changing Antipasto selection and super-fresh seafood alongside a selection of rare wines. The Restaurant & Wine Cellar The Royal Santrian. Jl. Pratama T: 0361 778 181 The resort’s pool and sea view restaurant serving authentic Italian and delectable Japanese. A wide selection of International wines are also available. The Shore Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: 0361 773 377 Beachfront eatery with contemporary design. Great for breakfast and sunset dining.
The Tao Bali Jl. Pratama no. 96, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 772 902 Experience a sensuous culinary journey through the cuisines of South-East Asia. The Terrace Amanusa Nusa Dua T: 0361 772 333 The Veranda The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 906
JIMBARAN/ULUWATU Alcedo Restaurant Gending Kedis Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera no. 100Y T: 0361 708 906 Serving Indonesian and international fare set in a quiet spot to savour your sunset and romantic rendezvous. Asam Garam Restaurant Villa Balquisse Jl. Jalan Uluwatu no. 18X T: 0361 701 695 Balique Jl. Uluwatu no. 39, Jimbaran T: 0361 704 945 Chocolate Cafe Jimbaran Corner Jl. Bukit Permai, Banjar Pesalakan T: 0361 704663 Dava Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera T: 0361 702 222 This chic 80-seat restaurant accentuates the spectacular Indian Ocean view. Eclectic fusion cuisine at its best.
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Di Mare Karma Kandara Resort Jl. Villa Kandara Banjar Wijaya T: 0361 848 2200 Modern Mediterranean cuisine served in a comfortably chic atmosphere. Finn’s Beach Club Semara Luxury Villa Resort Uluwatu Jalan Pantai Selatan Gau, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan T: 0361 848 2111 Grocer & Grind Jl. Bukit Permai, Jimbaran Corner T: 0361 704 335 honZEN Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 Flagship Japanese sushi, teppanyaki and Korean grill restaurant. Il Ristorante Bvlgari Resort Bali Jl. Goa Lempeh, Uluwatu T: 0361 847 1000 Jimbaran Beach Club Jl. Four Seasons, Pantai Muaya, T: 0361 709 959
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Ju Ma Na Restaurant & Bar Banyan Tree Ungasan Jalan Melasti, Banjar Kelod, Ungasan T: 0361 300 7000
The Warung Alila Villas Uluwatu Jl. Belimbing Sari, Tambyak T: 0361 848 2166
Kisik Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 Freshly grilled seafood and great views make this a very popular hotel restaurant. Dine on the private jetty for a dinner to remember.
Topeng Restaurant & Bar Kupu Kupu Jimbaran Jl. Bukit Permai, Banjar Pesalakan T: 0361 703 342
Ko Japanese Restaurant InterContinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu no. 45, Jimbaran T: 0361 701 888 Freshly prepared delicacies at the Sushi Lounge or the theatrics of teppanyaki around a series of interactive counters. Karma Lounge @ Karma Jimbaran Karma Jimbaran Jl. Bukit Permai, Jimbaran T: 0361 708 800 Izakaya small-plate concept. Live acoustic music, blues, jazz. Nammos Beach Club Karma Kandara Resort Jl. Villa Kandara Banjar Wijaya T: 0361 848 2200 Nelayan Restaurant Jimbaran Puri Bali Jl. Uluwatu, Jimbaran T: 0361 701 605 Padi Restaurant Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera T: 0361 702 222 Outdoor pavilions floating on lily ponds. Internationally acclaimed authentic Thai cuisine for dinner by Thai chef Nu Suandokmai. Pepenero Cucina Italiana Temple Hill Studios, Jl. Wanagiri no. 18, Jimbaran T: 0361 704 677 PJ’s Four Seasons Bali at Jimbaran Bay T: 0361 701 010 International selection with an emphasis on fish and seafood specialties. Wood-burning oven pizzas and pastas are also favourites. Sangkar Restaurant Bvlgari Resort Bali Jl. Goa Lempeh, Uluwatu T: 0361 847 1000 Sami Sami Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 A casual, cliff-side restaurant and bar that offers innovative authentic Italian cuisine in three separate outdoor dining pavilions. Taman Wantilan Four Seasons Bali at Jimbaran Bay T: 0361 701 010 Tapis Kayumanis Jimbaran Jl. Yoga Perkanti, Jimbaran T: 0361 705 777
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SANUR Arena Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Sanur T: 0361 287 255 Basilico Hotel Sanur Beach Bali T: 0361 288 011 Café Batu Jimbar Jl. Danau Tamblingan T: 0361 287 374 Great Indonesian food in a classically antique setting. Café Wantilan Bali Hyatt, Sanur T: 0361 281 234 Balinese and Indonesian favourites, including an impressive rijsttafel. Cupak Bistro and Grantang Bar Bali Hyatt, Sanur T: 0361 281 234 The restaurant specialises in European bistro-style cuisine and Asian favourites in a relaxed and casual environment. Flapjaks Jl. Cemara no.27, Sanur T: 0361 287 882 Flashbacks Jl. Danau Tamblingan no. 110 T: 0361 281 682 Gong Restaurant The Gangsa Private Villas T: 0361 270 260 Set within a calming environment, Gong presents an array of local herbs and spices that constitute the flavours of fine Balinese dining. Kopi Bali House Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai T: 0361 270 990 Mezzanine Puri Santrian, Jl. Cemara no. 35, Sanur T: 0361 270 624 At the crossroads of International cuisine and Eastern fare. Open dining area and bar in the centre of Sanur. Omang Omang Grill Bali Hyatt, Sanur T: 0361 281 234 The Resort’s seafood and grill restaurant housed in traditional fisherman’s beach house with thatched roof and magnificent views of the garden and pool. Pizza Ria Bali Hyatt, Sanur T: 0361 281 234 Located right on the beach, the restaurant is an open-air trattoria serving authentic Italian pizza and pasta dishes.
Sector Bar & Reastaurant Jl. Hangtuah no. 58 T: 0361 287 733 Stadium Cafe Jl. Cemara no.27, Sanur T: 0361 287 882 Telaga Naga Bali Hyatt, Sanur T: 0361 281 234 The Village Cucina Italiana Jl. Danau Tamblingan no. 47, Sanur T: 0361 285 025 Exceptionally good Italian fare with amazing value. High quality food at affordable prices. The Wicked Parrot Jl. Danau Tamblingan no. 47 T: 0361 281 814 Warung Pregina Jl. Danau Tamblingan no. 106 T: 0361 283 353
UBUD Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud T: 0361 975 053 One of the legendary institutions that had a hand in making Ubud one of the world’s favourite town. Has been revamped to become a finedining restaurant that focuses on organic ingredients and produce and the slow food philosophy. Ayung Terrace Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan Ubud, Gianyar T: 0361 977 577 Quality cuisine with magnificent views over the Ayung River valley. Bebek Bengil - Dirty Duck Diner Padangtegal, Ubud T: 0361 975 489 One of Ubud’s original landmark restaurants, offers cuisine from both East and West but specialises in delicious crispy duck. Beduur Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens. Desa Buahan T: 0361 982 700 French Asian fine dining in the midst of the terraced jungle and canopies of Ubud. Betel Nut Jl. Raya Ubud T: 0361 971 426 Bridges Jl. Tjampuhan, Ubud T: 0361 970 095 Bumbu Bali Jl. Suweta no. 1 T: 0361 974 217 Bunuté Restaurant and Bar Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud T: 0361 972 177 A place to savour good food and good wine. Cafe Wayan Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud T: 0361 975 447
Casa Luna Jl. Raya Ubud T: 0361 973 283 A smart selection of devilishly tempting desserts and a wide selection of teas and coffees. Cascades Restaurant Viceroy Bali T: 0361 972 111 Serves contemporary French cuisine with Asian influence. Clear Café Jl. Hanoman no. 8. Ubud T: 0361 889 4437 Delicious Onion Ubud Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 212 1463 Dining Corner Kayumanis Ubud, Sayan Village T: 0361 972 777 Offers the distinctively exotic flavours and spices of traditional Thai cuisine, while enjoying the singular sights and sounds of the Ayung River valley. Fly Café Jl. Raya Lungsiakan, Ubud T: 0361 975 440 Offers scrumptious, local, international, and vegetarian cuisine. Glow Como Shambhala Estate T: 0361 978 888 A contemporary, all-day dining restaurant featuring healthy organic and raw cuisine. Glove & Stove Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Campuhan T: 0361 362 8795 Indochine The Mansion Resort Hotel & Spa T: 0361 972 616 Introducing the flavour of IndoChina with a fusion of French-style cuisine. Indus Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 977 684 Sister restaurant to Casa Luna specialising in Indonesian cuisine with new and inventive twists on old themes. Jazz Cafe Jl. Sukma, Ubud T: 0361 976 594 The first and best live jazz venue on the island. An excellent bistro menu featuring Mediterranean and Asianstyle cuisine and cocktails to die for. Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Dewi Sita, Monkey Forest T: 0361 977 528 Kemiri Uma Ubud. Jl. Raya Sanggingan T: 0361 972 448 Modern, light and respectful local cuisine that revives traditional Indonesian offerings as well as contemporary interpretations of world flavours. Lamak Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud T: 0361 974 668
Localista Jl. Suweta no. 5 T: 0361 972 304 Maya Sari Asiatique Maya Ubud Resort & Spa T: 0361 977 888 Minami Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 970 013 Mozaic Restaurant and Lounge Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 975 768 Murni’s Warung Campuhan Bridge, Ubud T: 0361 975 233 Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Raya Sanggigngan, Ubud T: 0361 977 547 Hands down, best pork ribs in town. This low-key, laid-back, mellow fest should be in every Ubud itinerary. Their devilish martinis and margaritas are the best in Indonesia. Nomad Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud no.35 T: 0361 977 169 Mr. Nomad and his staff have been welcoming customers to this famous restaurant since 1979. Whether you are looking for coffee, a light snack, lunch or a romantic dinner with selected wine or exotic cocktails, this establishment does not disappoint. Padi Restaurant Furama Villas & Spa Ubud T: 0361 898 8688 Petulu Restaurant Kamandalu Resort and Spa T: 0361 975 825 Serving Indonesian specialties alongside a variety of Western cuisine. Plantation Restaurant Alila Ubud T: 0361 975 963 River Café Maya Ubud Resort & Spa T: 0361 977 888 Timbered floors and open kitchen design complement the healthy fusion food and spa cuisine. Siam Sally Jl. Hanoman - Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 980 777 Home-style Thai cuisine from the entirety of Siam. Soma Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud T: 0361 971 120 Terazo Jl. Suweta, Ubud T: 0361 978 941 A favourite Ubud bistro of colonial modern style with great Mediterranean and Asian cuisine. Fish specials rotate daily to ensure freshness. The Three Monkeys Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud T: 0361 975 554
Warung Babi Guling Ibu Oka Jl. Suweta, Ubud T: 0361 976 345, 207 7490 Babi Guling (roast suckling pig) at its best. Authentic and very informal, it is popular with those in the know and almost mandatory in a visit to Ubud.
Sky Garden Jl. Legian, Kuta T: 0361 756 362 Casts a formidable gaze over the rooftops of Legian with a slightly more refined feel to the interior and the crowds it attracts.
Warung Enak Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 972 911
Stadium Cafe Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 763 100 A magnet for sports fans offering large screens and all the action.
Warung Sopa Jl. Sugriwa no. 36 T: 0361 276 589
BARS & CLUBS TUBAN/KUTA/LEGIAN Boshe Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 89X, Tuban T: 0361 360 3980 Centrestage Hard Rock Hotel T: 0361 761 869 Eikon Jl. Legian No.178 Kuta Bali T: 0361 750 701 Gracie Kelly’s Bali Dynasty Resort T: 0361 752 403 Bali’s only authentic Irish pub. Live music every night playing Irish folk and just about everything else. Ice Bar W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak T: 0361 473 8106 Artisan cheeses, imported and housemade chacuterie with more than 40 selections of wines to pair. Mingle with fellow jetsetter and be partof the sensual transition into night over fresh iced cocktails and champagne. Infamy @ The Stones Jalan Raya Pantai Banjar Legian Kelod T: 0361 766 100 M Bar Go Jl. Legian T: 0361 756 280 Huge downstairs dance floor playing R&B and Hip Hop to flocking Kuta poseurs. Upstairs on the veranda is Funky House sets. Musro Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, Jl. Kartika Plaza T: 0361 764 582 Oceans 27 Discovery Esplanade (Beach Front) Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 765 027, 755 522 Beachfront club and lounge that features some of the hippest and most happening events. Red Square Bali Pullman Legian Nirwana T: 0361 767 540 Bali’s first vodka bar located right in front of Kuta beach. Expect fun madness.
The Bounty Club Jl. Legian, Kuta T: 0361 754 040 Twice Bar Poppies 2 T: 0813 2107 4129 Sweet underground bar for those seeking maximum rock ‘n’ roll culture. Live bands play everything from rockabilly to punk to metal to psychobilly.
SEMINYAK/ KEROBOKAN Bahiana Jl. Dhyana Pura, Seminyak T: 0361 738 662 Latino booty shaking rhythms to get the libido fully charged before a trip to the bigger clubs. Bali Joe’s Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 8, Seminyak T: 0813 6932 3935 Cocoon Beach Club Jl. Double Six, Blue Ocean Terrace T: 0361 731 266 A posh, all-white, beach club that turns into a night club and opens until the wee hours of the night. Divine Wonderland Jl. Laksmana T: 0361 730 759 A tapas bar-cum-lounge that is inspired by a doll house. It is regal Victorian fantasy brought to life. hu’u Bar & Grill Jl. Petitenget, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 6576 Ku De Ta Jl Kayu Aya no. 9, Seminyak T: 0361 736 969 Sunset, lounge chairs, almost any drink imaginable, impeccable service and a sinfully trendy crowd. La Barca Pantai Batu Belig T: 0819 1666 1399 Obsession Jl. Dhyana Pura, Seminyak T: 0361 730 269 Home of the famous Saharadja Band. It’s the place where you can hear the sound of the best live bands in Bali. Maria Magdalena Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 6 T: 0361 823 0298 Mint Bar Jl. Petitenget no. 919 T: 0361 473 2884
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Mixwell Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 6, Seminyak T: 0361 736 846 Very popular for the boys who don’t mind not seeing a girl in a bar. Red Carpet Champagne Bar Jl. Laksmana no. 42C, Seminyak T: 0361 737 889 Holds the largest champagne election in Bali. Try the lychee martini, possibly the best on the island. SANTA FE Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 11A T: 0361 731 147 Sea Circus Jl. Laksmana no.22 T: 0361 738 667 Pre-drinks lounge that serves tapas and seafood snacks in rather posh and colourful setting. The cocktails are also quite good. SOS Supper Club Anantara Seminyak Resort T: 0361 737 773 The perfect spot to chill out while viewing the sun go down. W Lounge W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak T: 0361 473 8106 Share some gossip, catch up for an afternoon tea or enjoy a cool Martini, as the bold and the beautiful catwalk their way across the room! WooBar W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak T: 0361 473 8106 Eat, drink, flirt and play here - a three-stprey epicentre of party alfresco fin in the sun - or at sunset. Sightsee and sip from the sky deck atop the club and boogie to international DJs spinning mixes.
NUSA DUA/TANJUNG BENOA/JIMBARAN/ ULUWATU Cascade Garden Lounge & Bar The Laguna Resort & Spa. Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 327 Outdoor terrace setting serving classic drinks next to cascading waterfalls. EAST Conrad Bali T: 0361 778 788 Jimbaran Beach Club Jl. Four Seasons, Pantai Muaya, T: 0361 709 959 Klapa Jl. New Kuta Beach, Pecatu Indah Resort T: 0361 848 4581 Rock Bar Ayana Resort and Spa T: 0361 702 222 Accessed via inclinator, this cliff-top bar offers extreme architecture and a 360-degree view of the island of the gods. Music includes chill out sunsets with live unplugged bands.
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SAKALA Jl. Pratama no. 88, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 774 499 Picture-perfect setting to watch sunset to sunrise with DJ lounge sounds. Radiant glow bar with sultry martini. Sip sundowner at the sea terrace and head upstairs for starlit dancing.
SANUR Blue Eyes Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no. 888, Sanur T: 0361 780 7478 Piano Bar Bali Hyatt, Sanur T: 0361 281 234
Grocer and Grind Jl. Kayu Jati no. 3X, Petitenget T: 0361 737 321 Jimbaran Corner, Jl. Bukit Permai T: 0361 704 335 Papaya Jl. Mertanadi T: 0361 759 222 A great place to shop for sushi and maki rolls made fresh daily on the premises. The Pantry Jl. Danau Tamblingan T: 0361 281 008
BEST IN SPA
Jiwa Spa Conrad Bali T: 0361 778 788
Samatha Spa Hotel Santika Premiere Beach Resort T: 0361 751 267
Karma Spa Karma Kandara T: 0361 848 2200
Saren Tandeg Spa The Adnyana Villas Jl. Pantai Berawa, Canggu T: 0361 857 9888
Kayumanis Spa at Ubud Sayan Village, Ubud T: 0361 972 777 Khayangan Spa The Seminyak Beach-Resort & Spa T: 0361730 814 Kirana Spa Desa Kedewatan, Ubud T: 0361 976 333
Spa Air Villa Air Bali Jl. Lebak Sari, Petitenget T: 0361 737 378 Spa Furama Furama Villas & Spa Ubud Jl. Raya Mambal, Badung, Ubud T: 0361 898 8688 Spa Hati Jl. Raya Andong no.14, Peliatan, Ubud T: 0361 977 578
The Cat and Fiddle Jl. Cemara no. 36, Sanur T: 0361 282 218
Amo Spa Jl. Petitenget 100X, Seminyak T: 0361 275 3337
Kiss Bali Kiss Villas Jl. Cendrawasih no. 99x, Petitenget T: 0361 847 6670
UBUD
Anantara Spa Anantara Seminyak Resort T: 0361 737 773
Komaneka Spa Komaneka at Bisma T: 0361 971 933
Away Spa W Retreat % Spa Bali-Seminyak T: 0361 738 106
Kriya Spa Grand Hyatt Bali, Nusa Dua T: 0361 778 884
Spa Uluwatu InterContinental Resort Bali Jl. Uluwatu no. 45, Jimbaran T: 0361 701 888
Bamboo Spa by L’Occitane Kupu Kupu Jimbaran T: 0361 703 342
Lagoon Spa The Laguna Resort & Spa Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 327
Spa Venus Villa Kubu Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 33F, Gg. Plawa T: 0361 731 129
Lluvia Spa Jl. Sunset Road no. 28, Seminyak T: 0361 847 5903, 215 6688
Sukha Spa Risata Bali Resort & Spa Jl. Jenggala, Tuban, Kuta T: 0361 753 340
Jazz Cafe Jl. Sukma no. 2, Tebesaya, Ubud T: 0361 976 594 Cool Jazz at Ubud’s hottest nightspot. Live bands play Jazz, Blues, Latin, Funk and Soul to expatriates and visiting travellers. Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 977 547 Ozigo Bar Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 980 358
DELIS & BAKERIES Bali Buddha Kerobokan T: 0361 844 5936 All your environmentally friendly needs can be catered including imported natural remedies, organic vegetables, healthy breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Bali Bakery Jl. Raya Kuta 65 T: 0361 755 149 Seminyak Square, Jl. Laksmana T: 0361 738 033 Purveyor of all things bread and pastry, expanded into restaurant serving a vast variety of food. Bali Deli Jl. Kunti, Seminyak T: 0361 738 686 Specialising in the finest French imports and other international luxury gourmet items. Dijon Jl. Setiabudi, Kuta T: 0361 759 636 A great deli selling imported cold cuts, pickles, cheeses and much more. Home or villa delivery. Gourmet Garage Jl. Batas Kangin no. 2, Jimbaran T: 0361 705 848 Contender for the best ice cream on the island and an excellent array of imported cheeses.
Bodyworks Jl. Kayu Jati no. 2, Petitenget T: 0361 733 317, 735 058 Como Shambhala Spa Como Shambala Estate, Bengawan Giri, Ubud, Gianyar T: 0361 978 888
Luxé Lounge Spa Sentosa Private Villas and Spa T: 0361 730 333
DaLa Spa Villa De Daun Jl. Raya Legian, Kuta T: 0361 756 276
Malkoha Spa Gending Kedis Luxury Villa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T: 0361 708 906
Equilibre Jl. Laksmana 117X, Seminyak T: 0361 887 0111
M.E.N.G Jl. Petitenget no. 147X T: 0361 733 886
Fabulously Feet Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no. 280B, Sanur T: 0361 283 937
Nusa Dua Spa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa T: 0361 771 210
Fivelements, Puri Ahimsa Banjar Baturning, Mambal T: 0361 469 206
O-CE-N Spa O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger Jl. Arjuna 88X, Legian T: 0361 737 400
Glo Day Spa Seminyak Kunti Plaza, Jl. Kunti no. 199, Seminyak T: 0361 738 689 Glo Day Spa & Salon Sanur Gopa Town Centre, Jl. Danau Poso 57 T: 0361 282 826 H’Spa Harris Resort Kuta Beach T: 0361 753 868 Jari Menari Jl. Raya Basangkasa no. 47, Seminyak T: 0361 736 740 JazB Beauty Space Seminyak Square 2nd fl unit A Jl. Laksmana T: 0361 738 882
Paul’s Place Jl. Laksmana no. 18B T: 0361 736 910 Prana Spa The Villas Bali Jl. Kunti 118x, Seminyak. T: 0361 730 840 Rei Wellness Spa Jl. Griya Anyar Br. Kajeng Pemogan Denpasar T: 0361 847 3320 Remede Spa St. Regis Bali Resort Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua T: 0361 847 8111 Rob Peetom Jl. Raya Petitenget T: 0361 738 363
Spa-Pad The Elysian Private Villas Jl. Sari Dewi no.18, Seminyak T: 0361 730 999
Talaga Spa Graha Ganesa Blok A,B,C Jl. Dewi Sri Lc 16, Sunset Road T: 0361 873 3831 Taman Air Spa Jl. Sunset Road no. 88, Seminyak T: 0361 894 7300-2 Taman Merah Spa Jl. Raya Petitenget 469, Seminyak T: 0361 473 6656 Tea Tree Spa Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali Jl. Wana Segara 33, Tuban T: 0361 755 577 Thalasso Spa Grand Mirage Resort Jl. Pratama no.74, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 773 883 Thermes Marins Bali Spa Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 Theta Spa Ramada Bintang Bali Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 755 726 The Ayur Spa The Kayana Jl. Raya Petitenget T: 0361 847 6628 The Edge Spa The Edge Villas Jl. Pura Goa Lempeh Banjar Dinas Kangin, Pecatu, Uluwatu T: 0361 847 0700
The Mandara Spa Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: 0361 773 377 The Private Spa Wellness Center Jl. Dhyana Pura no.4x, Seminyak T: 0361 731 648 The Spa and Wellness Studio The Amala Jl. Kunti no. 108, Seminyak T: 0361 738 866 The Spa at Kamandalu Kamandalu Resort & Spa Jl. Tegallalang, Banjar Nagi, Ubud T: 0361 975 825 The Spa at Maya Maya Ubud Resort and Spa Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Ubud T: 0361 977 888 The Spa at The Chedi Club Jl. Goa Gajah, Gianyar, Ubud T: 0361 975 685 The Spa at The Samaya The Samaya Bali Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak T: 0361 731 149 The Spa Villas Four Seasons Bali at Sayan Sayan, Ubud, Gianyar T: 0361 977 577 The Spa @ The Legian The Legian Bali Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak T: 0361 730 622
RETAIL THERAPY Aphrodite Jl. Laksmana no. 38B T: 0361 734 929 Atlas South Sea Pearl Jalan Bypass Ngurah Rai, Sanur T: 0361 284 455 Bamboo Blonde Jl. Laksmana no. 61. T: 0361 780 5919 Jl. Ry Seminyak no.63. T: 0361 210 7559 Jl. Raya Legian no. 154, T: 0361 751 667 Discovery Mall, Bali Collection Batik Keris Discovery Shopping Mall 1st fl T: 0361 769 756/717 Jl. Raya Legian 133, Kuta T: 0361 752 164 Bandara Ngurah Rai Domestic, T: 0361 755 616 International I, T: 0361 935 4796 International II, T: 0361 936 1108 Beachgold Jl. Laksmana no.54. T: 0361 737 549 Jl. Raya Semnyak no. 56A Bel Kazan Jl. Raya Basangkasa no. 11, Seminyak T: 0361 749 2644 Biasa Jl. Ry Seminyak no. 36. T: 0361 730 308 Jl. Raya Sanggingan Ubud T: 0361 887 8002
Body & Soul Legian T: 0361 767 169 Seminyak T: 0361 733 564 Kuta Square T: 0361 755 227 Discovery Mall T: 0361 769 751 Aimed at a younger market, you will find up-to-the minute styles that are a magnet for Bali’s young beach bodies. The accessories are fabulous and there is always something new. Body & Soul Bambini Seminyak T: 0361 733 564 Legian T: 0361 758 385 Discovery Mal, T: 0361 769 751 Bong’s Jl. Monkey Forest no. 999, Ubud T: 0361 808 4168 Jl. Ry Seminyak no.42A. T: 0361 730 580 By The Sea Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 847 5745 Jl. Raya Basangkasa T: 0361 730 510 Jl. Laksmana, Oberoi T: 0361 732 198 Dandelion Jl. Raya Basangkasa no. 28 T: 0361 730 375 Deus Ex Machina Jl. Batu Mejan no. 8, Canggu T: 0361 368 3395 Jl. Kayu Aya no. 32B, Seminyak T: 0361 735 047 Dinda Rella Jl. Laksmana no. 45 T: 0361 736 953 Jl. Ry Seminyak no. 44 T: 0361 734 228 Farah Khan W Retreat & Spa Bali. T: 0361 473 1789 The Legian Bali. T: 0361 730 622 Innuendo Jl. Raya Seminyak 75H, T: 0361 730 790 Jemme Jl. Raya Petitenget 125 T: 0361 473 3508 A gallery of classic fine jewellery and contemporary designs using the best in silver, gold, and platinum materials. A stunning treasure chest of jewellery collections, from Bali and around the world. k&i Jl. Basangkasa 44 T: 0361 737 025 Jl. Laksmana 18 T: 0361 736 477 Ku De Ta Boutique Jl. Laksmana no. 9, Seminyak T: 0361 736 969 Lily Jean Jl. Oberoi, Seminyak T: 0361 847 5872 Lucy’s Batik Jl. Basangkasa 88X T: 0361 795 1275 A unique Batik shop introducing the rich variety of batik, including modern and traditional designs, from various parts of Indonesia. Magali Pascal Jl. Kayu Aya no. 177X, T: 0361 736 147 Market Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 55 T: 0361 730 586
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Maru Jl. Kayu Aya no. 7H, T: 0361 734 102 Milo’s Oberoi - Jl. Laksmana no. 992 T: 0361 822 2008/730 410 Made’s Warung - Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 731 689 Milo’s Bazaar - Jl. Laksmana no.38 T: 0361 735 551 One of the original overseas designers to discover the artistry of Balinese batik workers and translate it into Western styling. Namu Jl. Petitenget no. 234x T: 0361 279 7524 Nico Nico Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 13 T: 0361 730 805 Nico Perez Jl. Laksmana no. 79, Seminyak T: 0361 738 655 Niluh Djelantik Jl. Ry Kerobokan 144 T: 0361 744 6068, 733 074 Optik Melawai Mal Discovery GF, T: 0361 769 766 Kuta Square Blok D no. 21, T: 0361 755 097 Galeria Mal Bali Blok 1B no. 47, T: 0361 767 047 Bali Collection Nusa Dua T: 0361 772 285 Jl. Gatot Subroto no. 314 T: 0361 425 345 Komp. Diponegoro Megah A no. 4 T: 0361 221 972 Komp. Ruko Udayana, Jl. P.B. Sudirman kav 21B T: 0361 254 282 Paul’s Place Boutique Jl. Laksmana Oberoi T: 0361 736 910 Jl. Petitenget 147X T: 0361 473 3886 Contemporary ethnic collection with a strong Asian influence mostly in rayon and cotton. Alternative soft clothing in sizes from regular to XXXL. Home furnishings, fantastic selected arts and crafts specialising in bronze artefacts, statues, Buddhas and dragons. Paul Ropp Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak T: 0361 735 613 Jl. Raya Seminyak, T: 0361 734 208 Kerobokan T: 0361 731 002 Jimbaran T: 0361 701 202 Ubud T: 0361 974 655 Colourful fashion using hand-woven materials. Watch out for the amazing sales twice annually, where the real bargains can be had.
Quarzia Boutique Jl. Oberoi 3A, Seminyak T: 0361 736 644
Cempaka Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no. 8 T: 0361 766 555, 747 4393
Alila Living Gallery Alila, Ubud T: 0361 975 963
Religion Jl. Laksmana, Basangkasa T: 0361 731 916
deLighting Gallery Jl. Laksmana no. 20/14c T: 0361 738 704 Jl. Batu Culung 1, Kerobokan T: 0361 742 0339
Biasa Artspace Jl. Seminyak no.34 T: 0361 847 5766 Open Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 1-6pm, and Sun by appointment
Didu All Weather Wicker Boulevard Sunset Road, Kuta T: 0361 894 7530, 847 5651
Danes Art Veranda Jl. Hayam Wuruk 159, Denpasar T: 0361 242 659, 244 096 Open daily 10am-6pm Esok Lusa Gallery Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 735 262
Renegade Republic Jl. Raya Legian 480 T: 0361 808 7385 Rip Curl Jl. Legian T: 0361 765 889 Sabbatha Jl. Raya Seminyak 97 Blok K T: 0361 731 756 sks (simplekonsepstore) Jl. Lesmana 40, Seminyak T: 0361 730 393 Skin Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 733 588 Studio 5 Lifestyle Boutique Jl. Dhyana Pura T: 0361 847 5794 The Bali Pearl Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, T: 0361 765 656 This is a Love Song Jl. Laksmana no. 3 T: 0361 913 0713 Miss Milne Jl. Seminyak Raya Shop 3/73 T: 0361 732 775 Uc Silver Jl. Raya Batubulan T: 0361 461511 Offers the latest design in contemporary, South-West, and Balinese sterling silver jewellery. Uluwatu Jl. Legian, Legian T: 0361 751 933 Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta T: 0361 755 342 Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur T: 0361 288 037 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud T: 0361 977 557 Uma and Leopold Jl. Kunti 8X T: 0361 733 670 Jl. Raya Seminyak 44B T: 0361 731 348 Jl. Oberoi 77X T: 0361 737 697 W The Store W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak Jl. Petitenget, Kerobokan T: 0361 473 8106 Stylish items ranging from pieces out of W’s own Global Glam collection, or exotic gifts sourced from around the world. Why Not Shop Jl. Seminyak Raya no.63 T: 0361 847 5790
Duo Jl. Bypass Sunset Road, Seminyak T: 0361 847 5976/77 Haveli Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 737 160 Hishem Furniture Jl. Sunset Road 86C, Kuta T: 0361 737 441 Jenggala Jl. Uluwatu II, Jimbaran T: 0361 703 311 Leolle Jl. Raya Kerobokan T: 0361 732 234 Lio Collection Jl. Raya Kerobokan no. 2 T: 0361 780 0942 Panonpoe Jl. Kayu Aya 150, Seminyak T: 0361 736 714
Genta Fine Art Gallery Jl. Lodtunduh no. 1, Ubud T: 0361 978 272 Open daily 9am-5pm Griya Santrian Gallery Jl. Danau Tamblingan 47, Sanur T: 0361 288 181 Hanna Artspace Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 978 216 Kendra Gallery Uma Sapna Villa Jl. Drupadi no. 88B, Seminyak T: 0361 736 628
sks (simplekonsepstore) Jl. Laksmana 40, Seminyak T: 0361 730 393
Komaneka Fine Art Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud T: 0361 976 090
Tarita Furniture Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no. 910 T: 0361 780 3441
Museum Antonio Blanco Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud T: 0361 975 502 Open daily 9am-5pm
Word of Mouth Kunti Arcade Shop 10 Jl. Kunti no. 9 T: 0361 847 5797 A contemporary furniture store where you can buy everything, including the decorations in their toilets. Vinoti Living Mall Bali Galeria T: 0361 752 723 Seminyak Square T: 0361 732 202 Warisan Casa Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran T: 0361 701 081 Warisan Living Jl. Raya Kerobokan no. 68 T: 0361 730 048
HOMEWARES & FURNITURE
GALLERIES & MUSEUMS
Pura Vida Kuta Square, T: 0361 756 296 Jl. Raya Seminyak, T: 0361 847 5860 Jl. Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 766 627 Jl. Raya Basangkasa, T: 0361 732 582
Carlo Showroom Jl. Danau Poso 22, Sanur T: 0361 285 211
Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 976 659 Open daily 9am-6pm
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Gaya Art Space Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud T: 0361 979 252 Open daily 9.30am-11pm
Santai Outdoor & Indoor Beanbags Jl. Sunset Road no.89 T: 0361 847 5750
Press Ban Café Jl. Laksmana no. 50xx T: 0361 730 486
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Ganesha Gallery Four Seasons Hotel Jimbaran T: 0361 701 010 Open daily 9am-6pm
Museum Le Mayeur Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur T: 0361 286 201 Open daily 8am-1.30pm Museum Neka Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud T: 0361 975 074 Open daily 9am-5pm Museum Pasifika Kawasan Pariwisata BTDC Block P, Nusa Dua T: 0361 774 - 935 Open daily 10am-6pm Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud Gianyar T: 0361 975 136 Open daily 9am-5pm Museum Rudana Jl. Cok Rai Pudak no. 44, Ubud T: 0361 975 779 Tony Raka Fine Art Gallery Jl. Raya Mas no. 86, Ubud T: 0361 781 6785
Saya Gallery Jl. Laksmana 12X T: 0361 730 858 Jl. Petitenget no. 88c T: 0361 473 8552 Seniwati Gallery Jl. Sriwidari 2B, Ubud T: 0361 975 485 Taksu Gallery W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak T: 0361 473 8106 The Gallery Jl. Sunset Road no. 89, Seminyak T: 0361 731 738 Widuri & Sena Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T: 0361 978 008
RECREATION ADVENTURE A J Hackett Jl. Double Six T: 0361 731144 A True Balinese Experience Jl. Diponegoro 150 B-12, Denpasar T: 0361 239 440 Bali Adventure Tours Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran T: 0361 721 480 Bali Learn to Surf Hard Rock Hotel Jl. Pantai, Kuta T: 0361 792 2922 Bali Quad Discovery Tours Jl. Wirasatya VI no. 4x, Denpasar T: 0361 720 766, 808 0305 Bali Treetop Adventure Park Kebun Raya Eka Karya T: 0361 852 0680 Dive Bali Jl. Danau Tamblingan X No. 31, Sanur T: 0361 774504 Nusa Dua Dive Centre Jl. Pratama 37 XX, Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 774 711 Paddy Adventure ATV Perum Kuta Permai, Blok IV/1 Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Tuban T: 0361 759 048 Pelangi Bali Mountain Cycling Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud T: 0361 975 992 SeeBali Adventures Jl. Jayagiri XIX no. 2, Denpasar T: 0361 794 9693 Sobek Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 100X Simpang Siur T: 0361 287 059
BODY AND SOUL Art of Body Jl. Merta Sari, Gg Pribadi no. 1 Seminyak T: 0361 877 4094
Bikram Yoga Istana Kuta Galleria Blk VL no. 12 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta T: 0361 769 040 Desa Seni Jl. Subak Sari 13, Pantai Berawa, Canggu T: 0361 844 6392 Manik Organik Yoga Jl. Danau Tamblingan 85, Sanur T: 0361 855 3380 Motion Fitness Jl. Sri Rama no. 72 T: 0361 762 385 Olop’s Studio Jl. Drupadi 1 no. 7 T: 0361 733 403 Sunset Fitness Jl. Sunset Road no. 1828, Seminyak T: 0361 888 7026 Sunset Pilates Jl. Dewi Sri no.98, Kuta T: 0361 791 4127 Yoga Barn Jl Pengosekan, Padang Tegal, Ubud T: 0361 971 236
LEISURE Air Bali Dewa Ruci Building Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai no. 2, Kuta T: 0361 207 7788
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Bali Beach Golf Course Jl. Hangtuah No 58, Sanur T: 0361 287 733
Odyssey Submarine Bali Jl. Raya Kuta no. 9X T: 0361 759 777, 759 888
Bali Zoo Jl Raya Singapadu T: 0361 294 357
Bali Golf & Country Club Kawasan Wisata Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 791
Quicksilver Cruise Jl. Kerta Dalem no. 96, Denpasar T: 0361 721 521
Rimba Reptile Park Jl. Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir, Singapadu, Batubulan T: 0361 299 344
Bali Handara Kosaido Country Club Bedugul T: 0362 342 2646
Waka Land Cruises Jl Padang Kartika 5 X Padang Sambian T: 0361 426 972
Bali Hai Cruises Benoa Harbour T: 0361 720 331 Bali Horse Riding Jl. Diponegoro 150 B-12, Denpasar T: 0361 238 759 Bali Nusa Dua Theatre Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua T: 0361 770 197 Club Aqua Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai no.5 T: 0361 281 408 Fishing Bali Taman Griya Nusa Dua, Jl. Danau Tamblingan X no. 31 T: 0361 774 504 New Kuta Golf Kawasan Pecatu Indah Resort Jl. Raya Uluwatu Pecatu, Jimbaran T: 0361 848 1333 Nirwana Golf Club Jl. Raya Tanah Lot, Kediri T: 0361 815 960
Waterbom Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: 0361 755 676 Bali’s premiere water park offers a vast array of slides, games, food, and a lazy river.
PARKS Bali Bird Park Jl. Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir Singapadu, Batubulan T: 0361 299 352 Bali Elephant Park Denpasar T: 0361 256 780 Bali Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro, Tegallalang T: 0361 721 480 Bali Safari & Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra km 19,8, Gianyar T: 0361 950 000
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shelf assessment
“Keret’s imagination rivals that of Borges. Both are labyrinthine though stylistically they are worlds apart and Borges, unlike Keret, is much less than 50 per cent funny – even on one of his sunnier days.”-
suddenly, a knock on the door
Image motti kikayon
Etgar Keret, Chatto and Windus, 2012,
O
ne of the most memorable literary events of my life was listening to Etgar Keret read his funny, tender, bizarre story “Fatso” to a crowd of people at the Ubud Royal Palace during the opening of the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival a couple
of years ago. I was transfixed and I laughed until it hurt. Because, to call Etgar Keret a comic writer only gets at half of it. The other half is tragic. Every laugh is accompanied by an ache, even the welling up of a tear, although the tragedy is difficult to locate, and each tic is only symptomatic of a tug of anxiety
coming from some deeper, darker place. Maybe that place is called Tel Aviv where Keret lives and works or maybe its roots are more complicated still. It is telling that many of Keret’s narrators and the other characters that populate his concise stories, are looking to fictions as a means of escape but instead they reveal the very things they were constructed in the hope of avoiding. In this sense all Keret’s short stories are treatises on invention: on the power of the imagination to elude realities that are ultimately inescapable. In the collection’s opening story of the same name, the narrator is kidnapped and held hostage until he agrees to the demand to tell a story. His kidnappers grow increasingly
frustrated with his inability to describe a scene other than the one around him and especially with his uncanny ability to make things happen: “Suddenly, a knock on the door” he says, and suddenly, there is and another interrogator enters the room to join the throng of those gathered around demanding a tale. In another, a habitual and extremely imaginative liar accidentally discovers a portal to a parallel world where all of his creations live. The giant redheaded boy who beat him up and stole the money his mother had given him to buy her a pack of cigarettes; the crippled German Shepherd he’d taken to the vet when he should have been at work; the aunt with cancer he’d had to get leave from the army to visit. Keret’s imagination rivals that of Borges. Both are labyrinthine though stylistically they are worlds apart and Borges, unlike Keret, is much less than 50 per cent funny – even on one of his sunnier days. My qualifications about Keret’s humour notwithstanding, there is a mood of playfulness in his work that engages on intellectual, emotional and visceral levels simultaneously: funny but uncomfortable too, like the hilarity that might accompany a game of nude Twister. He is not afraid to be scatological or sexy or perverse in his explorations, or to conjure psychological and physical violence – all for the sake of spinning lies that tell us the truth. If the imagination was a muscle Keret might be Atlas. Some reviewers have worried that “Suddenly, a knock on the door” is more of the same from Keret, but there is no one else like him and the world would be poorer – and less aloft – were he to simply stop doing the beautifully mind-bending things he does. • Peter StePhenSon may 2012
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last but not least
preston bailey
IntervIeweD by hellobalI
genuinely humble and warmheartedly humorous, the most prominent american event designer dropped by four seasons resort bali at jimbaran bay for a delightful chat with hellobali and the launch of clara love
what is your earliest childhood memory? A little robot I had when I was two years old. I was fascinated by the mechanism that made it walk. who is your childhood hero? My mother, Zellerita. This is the woman who had little during her life, who took care of five kids and made many sacrifices. This is the woman who unfortunately didn’t have great health but at the same time was able to teach me the value of hard work. if you weren’t an event designer, what other profession would you consider? Architect. Most of the time I build temporary buildings beautifully inspired by nature – but they’re fleeting. I’d like to build some construction that lasts. 88
may 2012
who or what is your greatest inspiration? My clients. I have among them the most amazing artists and successful billionaires – people who’ve seen it all and done it all. If I had to name the three most inspiring people, they would be: Oprah Winfrey, Ivanka Trump, Donald Trump’s daughter, and my dearest Tania Tjiptobiantoro from Java. I think her wedding in East Java was one of the most beautiful weddings we’ve ever done. I also get great inspiration from nature, fashion shows, galleries, museums and magazines. describe your typical day. If I’m not travelling, my typical day in New York City would be waking up at 5am, and spending some time designing or writing my blog. It’s my creative part of the day. I go to the gym for an hour and a half and then work by myself for another two hours. I come to the office at 10am and have meetings back-to-back. At 7pm I usually go out and enjoy dinner with my friends and will be home by 10pm. how do you incorporate the support of others into your career? Obviously my staff is my family; they’re crazy like me, dramatic like me, fun like me; and we have a lot of fun and fights. For me it’s very nurturing. what are you currently working on besides managing or creating some events? Apart from preparing a public exhibit at Pacific Place, Jakarta, among many other works around the globe, I have an educational programme of event design
for colleges in the US. We’re starting to give online training, allowing everyone regardless of their location to enrol. I’ve just finished an inspirational book about doing business with your heart. if you had complete creative licence and an unlimited budget, what would you do? I would create a fabulous party on a plane, invite all my friends, and go to the Maldives for a week full of partying. list your favourite book, film, TV show, singer and actor. [In order] “Full Service: My Adventures in Hollywood and the Secret Sex Lives of the Stars” by Scotty Bowers; any sci-fi and vampire films, from “Star Wars” to “Twilight” series; “Desperate Housewives” and “Leverage”; jazz singer Theo Blackman, who’s my partner; Madonna and Coco Lee; Laurence Fishburne, Tom Cruise and Oprah Winfrey – she acted very well in “The Color Purple”. If you could choose a conversation topic at a dinner party, what would it be? Sex! [laughs] We can announce: tonight we’re going to talk about sexuality; anybody want to leave now? Name five famous people (dead or alive) that you would invite to your dinner party. John Paul Gaultier, whom I love greatly; Indonesian designer Biyan – I think he’s a bit mellow; President Obama – he has to get the invitation immediately; Deepak Chopra, whom I love tremendously; and Oprah Winfrey of course! •