JJK June 2012

VOL 19 NO 06 JUNE 2012

IDR 35.000

IT’S HERE! 50 WAYS TO MAKE JAKARTA GREAT 10 TRAITS OF A TRUE JAKARTAN 1 June 2012

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Vol 19 No 06 June 2012

74 Cover Story 50 things we can do to turn Jakarta into the best city on the planet 70 Record Playing a Game of Thrones: with Nikolaj Coster-Waldau 142 Small Talk with Lee Westwood 144 Afterthought Poker disgrace

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Vol 19 No 06 June 2012

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Contributors Fast Forward Rewind

Play

27 THE BIG J Born to be wild: street racing as an integral part of Jakarta’s rich tapestry 30 BOOKS “Miscellaneous essays” by Thomas De Quincey (1851)

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32 FILM IMAX to the max: has the city’s new IMAX theatre wowed Jakartans or proved itself a turkey?

34 MUSIC What’s hip about the hipster?: on Jakarta’s burgeoning hipster movement

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36 GADGETS Plug and play: Adidas Sennheiser CX 680 vs Monster Beats by Dr Dre 38 COMMUNITY Care for kids: grandkemang Hotel’s initiatives to help unfortunate kids

Pause 41 VANITY Fashion news: this month’s fashion trends 102

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46 IN VOGUE Night fiction 56 LIVING Industrial nights: one of the most interestingly designed hotels in Jakarta 62 ART Actus contrionis: magical artworks by the owner of Kedai Kebun Forum

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64 CULTURE You know you’re a true Jakartan when…: ten signs of a real Jakartan

Taste 90 KITCHEN UPDATES 94 RESTAURANT REVIEWS Double Bay, Seroeni, and Saung Grenvil 98 RESTAURANT TALK Rustique and C’s 102 FOOD TALK Gig in a glass: in search of the rock stars of the wine world 108 CHEF WARS Djoko Sarwono vs Arnold Budiawan 109 DRINKS 1920 + Mango & Passion Fruit Mojito 110 TOP TABLES + BARS

Travel 118 ARCHIPELAGO Wave hunting: in search of top surfing beaches in Indonesia 124 BALI Gunung Agung: the island’s holiest mountain 132 JOURNEYS Somewhere beyond the sea: our editors share the cities they would call a second home

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Before you read 15 things you will learn this issue

The new Pullman Central Park is the latest hotel in Jakarta with an artistic and industrial design concept

SAPPORO

Nikolaj Coster-Waldau is the charming Danish actor who gambled his way into the successful HBO series “Game of Thrones” page 70

page 56

Jakarta,

KYOTO

TOKYO

OSAKA

which celebrates its 485th birthday this month, could be the best city on the planet if the number of motorcycles on the street was reduced

Arnold Budiawan is the executive chef of Score!

Cilandak Town Square, and was once a DJ with long-grungy hair page 108

Blazers

Osaka,

Japan, is somewhat reminiscent of Cape Town and Sydney with its mountains and scenic countryside

Choose your furniture

can be worn as part of a fun outfit for an evening out in town

wisely before you start revamping your living space

page 46

The SeNnheiser Adidas

headset comes with an EarFin holding system for an optimal workout session

page 54

Agung Kurniawan, the owner of Kedai Kebun Forum, is having his solo exhibition in Jogja page 60

page 142

The iMax is the latest commotion for Jakarta moviegoers and competition for other cinema houses

Keyaki The intimate Diagonale bar and lounge at Plaza Senayan is a winner for their Indonesian food page 110

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Lee Westwood, the world’s number three golfer, has a passion for horses

Japanese restaurant at Sari Pan Pacific Jakarta, has been around for 36 years and is legendary for its robatayaki counter page 112

The members of the illegal street race

Sixteen worldfamous chateaux

in Jakarta were allegedly members of the Indonesian armed forces

from Bordeaux gathered in Jakarta to flaunt their charms to fellow wine lovers

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page 102

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PUBLISHING President Director Ajie Kusumantoro Head Of Operations Patty Abidin Advertising Sales Jakarta sales@indomultimedia.co.id Melanie Wahyu Harry Sutanto L.D. Michael Dewi Puspa Saraswati Sri Neni Supriyanti Head Of Marketing Nining Widiyawati Marketing marketing@indomultimedia.co.id Trias Agustiawati, Gatot Purnama eDITORIAL editor@jakartajavakini.com Group Editor-in-Chief Unggul Hermanto Group Copy Editor Simon Pitchforth (TA)

Editor Yohanes Sandy Asst. Editor Shannicka Nofrena Tamar Editorial Assistant Belinda (Intern)

Design Consultant www.brownfoxstudio.com Brown Fox Studio Photographer Kiki Djaffar Head of Production Agus Muslim Production Staff Nuridin Muhidin Fahri Sugeng Susanto Traffic traffic@indomultimedia.co.id Patrisia Evi Novita Sari Circulation circulation@indomultimedia.co.id Pandu Guritno Siti Turyati Advertising Sales Bali bali@indomultimedia.co.id Ayu Oka Trisnawati

Head Office

Globe Building 3rd Floor Jl. Buncit Raya kav 31-33, Jakarta 12740 T: 021 7918 7008 F: 021 7918 7009 Bali OfficE

Pertokoan Kuta Center Block B2 & B12, Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta - Bali 80361 T: 0361 919 0756, 919 0765 F: 0361 756 354 Printed in Indonesia by PT. Indonesia Printer

JJK is published monthly by PT Indo Manca Media – a subsidiary of Indo Multi Media Communications Group. Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the authors. The Publisher does not accept responsibility for the contents thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior permission of the Publisher. All trademarks and rights to the name JJK is reserved by PT. Indo Manca Media under license no: 466/SK/MENPEN/SIUPP/1998

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Contributors

Yohan Handoyo

Sebastian Subakti

Joezer Mandagi

Assignment Writing about Bordeaux wines

Assignment Reviewing Double Bay and Saung Grenvil

Assignment Identifying the traits of a true Jakartan

“For wine lovers and connoisseurs, this was indeed the equivalent of a major rock gig. Sixteen world-famous chateaux from the Bordeaux region of France had assembled in Jakarta to meet their die-hard fans.”

“We have long yearned for fresh Mexican dishes to hit the city and our fingers were crossed. What arrived at our table was certainly not bad, as it contained a decent amount of chilli con carne and scrambled egg.”

“A seasoned Jakartan therefore always travels prepared with a bundle of Rp. 1000 notes to dispense to those ubiquitous parking attendants, not to mention a handful of coins for persistent street buskers and another stack of rupiah shrapnel for the so-called “U-turn police” who make switching lanes that much easier.”

Peter Stephenson

Mia Maria

Luky Annash

Assignment Reviewing “Miscellaneous Essays” by Thomas De Quincey

Assignment Art

Assignment Investigating about the hipster community in Jakarta’s music scene

“Renown for his skills as a conversationalist, it’s incredible how strong and clear his voice still is after all this time. He could just as easily – barring a few nineteenth century idioms – be sitting in the cafe at that table over there, holding forth with a fresh take on an issue or sensational crime of the day, gesticulating above the sound of the espresso machine.”

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“Primarily using iron as his medium, Agung creates dramatic artworks in which shadows become an integral part of the work itself, adding a new visual dimension to the whole experience.

Agung’s latest solo exhibition compiles subject matter that he has been incorporating into his body of work over the past few years.”

“Jakarta hipsters are a somewhat unique brand. This city ain’t NY, London or Sydney and any formulaic, international hipster agenda cannot be fully be applied here. Nevertheless, the trend is growing rapidly, which means you’ll find members of this counterculture at Roxette, The Cranberries or LMFAO concerts.”

and we call it home..

83% of total area is dedicated for Landscape with Garden & Pools 2 Private Lifts to each unit Advanced Security System Located in Kebayoran (area of South Jakarta) Great access to CBD & International Schools

www.pakubuwono6.com inquiry@pakubuwono6.com

Jl. Pakubuwono 6 No. 72 Kebayoran Baru Jakarta Selatan 12120. Indonesia

Sales & Leasing Office 15

(021) 725 9988 June 2012

Fast Forward Music gigs, clubbing events and other happenings around town

deisha tamar

Indonesian Dance Festival June 1-9

enjoy talk shows and demos designed to help you become better parents. You’ll find this one at Central Park Mall.

Central Park Mall 1st floor, T: 021 9777 8588 6-7

COMMUNICATION EXPO Build your business, expand your networking opportunities and increase your market share in Indonesia through the Indonesia International Communication Conference & Expo.

Jakarta Convention Center, Lower Lobby, www.icc-expo.com 6-10

INDONESIA CELLULAR SHOW Now in its ninth year, the Indonesia Cellular Show just gets bigger and better. This is your chance to throw away your old mobile and grab yourself a fancy new one.

Jakarta Convention Center, Assembly Hall & Main Lobby, www.ics-expo.com

EVENTS MAY 5-JUNE 15

CONTEMPORARY ART & DESIGN Indonesian Contemporary Art & Design (ICAD) is the first ever exhibition in the country to combine the design, art, technology, entertainment and hospitality industries into a harmonious whole.

Programmes on offer at this event will include workshops, performances and conventions. grandkemang Hotel, www.i-c-a-d.org, T: 021 719 2043 16

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INDONESIAN DANCE FESTIVAL Established in 1992 and organised every two years since, the eleventh IDF will be held at Taman Ismail Marzuki.

The event will include a dance competition, a master class, a choreography workshop, dance, film and street performers.

Taman Ismail Marzuki, Jl. Cikini Raya, www.indonesiandancefestival.org JUNE 1-JULY 14

JAKARTA GREAT SALE Shoppers, get ready to drool

as 73 malls across Jakarta take part in the annual Jakarta Great Sale. Splurge on some crazy discounts and midnight sales. The event will be officially opened by Governor Fauzi Bowo in Rasuna Epicentrum on June 1. www.jakarta-tourism.go.id 4-8

URBAN MOM & KIDDY FAIR Parents, it’s time to spoil your kids with some interactive games and splash out on some of the latest toys. While your kids are playing, you can

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STARTUP JAKARTA After the success of Startup Asia Singapore, it’s time to battle it out at Startup Asia Jakarta and hopefully win US$ 10,000.

Upperroom Jakarta Annex Building, Wisma Nusantara Complex, www.techinasia.com/ startup-asia-jakarta-2012

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FastForward Poetry reading June 9

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FUTSAL CHAMPIONSHIP Register your team in this futsal tournament, organised

by Ekonid. The tournament will take place before the opening game of the Euro 2012 Championship, and will be followed by dinner. www.indonesien.ahk.de 9

A DAY WITH JAMES GWEE Marketing expert James Gwee will be holding a public seminar on June 9 at which he will offer tips on how to be a good manager or supervisor.

The Champion Manager & Supervisor seminar will be held in the grand ballroom of the Pullman Hotel, Central Park from 9am to 5pm.

Info: Academia Education & Training, T: 021 601 1121, www.jamesgwee.com 9

poetry reading Legendary Indonesian poet, Sapardi Djoko Damono, will be launching his latest book, “Sapardi Membaca Sita” on June 9. He will be reading poems from the book and there’ll also be readings from other local poets.

Serambi Salihara, Jalan Salihara 16, Pasar Minggu, T: 021 789 1202 9-10

JAKARTA GOT STYLE The seventh Festival Palang Pintu is marking its territory once more on Jalan Kemang Raya with Nitendo Wii Giant Batik, a fun bike, a bazaar and plenty more besides.

Jalan Kemang Raya, www.bazaarjakarta.com/event-kemang 18

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BABY, YOU’RE A FIREWORK As part of Enjoy Jakarta, the first ever Indonesian International Fireworks Festival will showcase fireworks from five countries: France, Australia, Argentina, Morocco and China. There will also be a performance by legendary local musicians KLA Project, The Groove and DJ Anton, as well as a set by international

sensation Yolanda Be Cool.

Taman Impian Jaya Ancol, Jl. Pasir Putih Raya Ancol, T: 021 6471 0497 20-21

CHOOSE YOUR CAREER JobsDB.com will be holding its annual career expo at Senayan City Hall this month. Hundreds of companies, both local and international, will be setting up stalls at the expo and offering career opportunities galore. www.jobsdb.com 24

KICK OFF! If you are a secret fan of Jakarta’s legendary Persija football team, then you can watch them play Sriwijaya FC at Gelora Bung Karno Stadium on June 24. The following Saturday they will also be hosting another home game against Persiram at the same stadium. If you’re not a

fan though, then we’d advise staying away from the Senayan area during the match.

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BAZAAR BAPINDO Get your shopping bags at the ready, as this bazaar really should not be missed if you are looking for discounted branded items.

Plaza Bapindo Assembly Hall 8th floor, Jl. Jendral Sudirman, T: 021 9970 0091

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FastForward Lady Gaga June 3

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XIA JUNSU Xia Junsu, a member of the Korean group JYJ, will be playing a solo gig without his band as a part of his first ever Asian tour.

JITEC, Mangga Dua Square, www.rajakarcis.com

MUSIC GIGS

doubt. Check the news for all the Gaga latest. www.bigdaddy.co.id

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NKOTBSB It’s every girl’s dream to see two of the hottest and most legendary boy bands performing together on the same stage. Sing along to NKOTB’s “Step by Step” and Backstreet Boys’ “Larger than Life” and relive all those memories.

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Christina Perri, the tattooed rocker who sings anything but rock songs, will be bringing her unique voice to Tennis Indoor Senayan this month.

Jason Mraz returns to Indonesia for a third time to promote his latest album.

Mraz previously performed at the Java Jazz Festival back in 2009 and also gave an acoustic performance in Bali last year.

CHRISTINA PERRI

JASON MRAZ

Tennis Indoor Senayan, www.rajakarcis.com 13

MEIS Ancol, www.berlianentertainment.com

AHMAD DHANI AND THE INDONESIAN ALL STARS

Lapangan D Senayan, Gelora Bung Karno, www.rajakarcis.com

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To celebrate his twentieth anniversary in the music industry, Ahmad Dhani is throwing a celebration concert that will also feature other Indonesian musicians such as Agnes Monica, Marcell, Afgan and many more.

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LADY GAGA Little monsters, it’s time to greet the mother monster as she comes to Jakarta on her world tour. Alas, owing to an ongoing brouhaha whipped up by some of Indonesia’s religious fundamentalists, this huge gig is now in 20

June 2012

Plenary Hall, Jakarta Convention Center, www.rajakarcis.com

MBLAQ Korean boy band MBLAQ (it stands for Music Boys Live in Absolute Quality) will be in Jakarta to perform their hits “Baby U!” and “One Better Day” for their loyal fans at MEIS Ancol.

MEIS Ancol, www.rajakarcis.com

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FastForward

CLUBBING EVENTS

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SUMMER FLING Celebrate the last day of June at Blowfish’s Summer Fling party.

City Plaza, Wisma Mulia, Jl. Jend. Gatot Subroto No. 42, T: 021 5297 1211

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LUCKY SEVENS Celebrate Red Square’s seventh anniversary in fine style and set the night alight.

Every Monday night

BOTTLES NIGHT

Plaza Senayan Arcadia, Pintu I Senayan, T: 021 5790 1281

Head down to B.A.T.S. at the Shangri-La hotel for a 20 per cent discount on selected bottles.

June 8-July 1

Shangri-La Hotel level 1, T: 021 3048 8565

LIVE MATCH

challenge at De Hooi.

De Hooi Bar & Restaurant, Jl. Metro Duta Raya No. 31, T: 021 750 0742 Every Tuesday night

THE SALSA DANCE

Get your dancing shoes on and learn how to Salsa only at Amigos Restaurant.

Amigos, Jl. Kemang Selatan 1, T: 021 719 2584 Every Wednesday night

FOR THE LADIES

Ladies, relieve your stress and sup on some free cocktails at Diagonale bar and lounge.

Sip a glass of wine or beer while cheering on your favourite team at FrontPage.

FrontPage, Plaza Gani Djemat, Jl. Imam Bonjol, T: 021 390 3614

Plaza Senayan, 4th floor, T: 021 572 5570 Every Wednesday night

June 8

DANCE WITH NADIA ALI Immigrant will be hosting a fabulous clubbing event featuring Nadia Ali, an International Dance Music Award Winner and Grammy Nominee. The Pakistani American singer and songwriter will rock audience with her hits tunes including “Feels So Good” which she produced with the help of DJ Armin Van Buren.

Plaza Indonesia Extension, 6th floor, T: 021 3983 8257

KARAOKE NIGHT

month. DJ Lee will be teaming up with Immigrant’s resident DJs to rock the crowd on this fine Friday night.

Show off your inner Jordin Sparks or Chris Brown at Elbow Room’s karaoke night every Wednesday.

Plaza Indonesia Extension, 6th floor, T: 021 3983 8257

Elbow Room, Jl. Kemang Raya No. 24A, T: 021 719 4274

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NEW CLUB IN TOWN Party people, prepare for the grand opening of the newest club in town at Score! Cilandak Town Square.

The Club @Score! Jakarta, Cilandak Town Square, T: 021 7592 0279

Every Friday night

HAPPY HOUR Every Tuesday night

BEER PONG CHALLENGE Show off your skills at this fun beer pong

Treat yourself to some potent pourings of wine and spirits at Blu Martini’s Happy Hour, which starts from 5pm.

JW Marriott Hotel, T: 021 5798 8901

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GOING GAGA Prepare yourself for the Lady Gaga Post Party…if it actually happens. Immigrant’s resident DJ will be rocking the house with a special R&B party and some remixed Gaga tracks.

Special performances also await you at this party. Prepare to be amazed.

Plaza Indonesia Extension, 6th floor, T: 021 3983 8257 23

JAKARTA’S ANNIVERSARY Celebrate Jakarta’s 485th anniversary at Afterhour Billiard & Bar’s Betawi Punye Gaye Series event.

Afterhour, Jl. M.H. Thamrin, T: 021 3983 2047 29

DJ STEVEN LEE Immigrant invites American DJ Steven Lee to spin to a hopefully packed house this 22

June 2012

Dance with Nadia Ali June 8

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Rewind events that took place in the not-so-distant past

Yohanes Sandy + Deisha Tamar

De Luca trattoria & Bar & Monolog Coffee CO

The dynamic duo

De Luca Trattoria & Bar and Monolog Quality Coffee Co celebrated their first anniversary last month. The two trendy hangouts, which reside in Plaza Senayan, first opened their doors in May of last year. A celebratory shindig was held at De Luca on May 10 and the restaurant took the opportunity to launch an affordable new lunch setmenu for its loyal patrons to get stuck into. Monolog, meanwhile, offered a photo competition that will run until July 8.

dunhill

Lock and load lunch

www.deluca-italian.com and www.monolog-coffee.com

jakarta fashion & Food festival

mazda cx-5

In conjunction with the annual Jakarta Fashion & Food Festival, which came to Kelapa Gading last month, a special Wine & Cheese Expo was held and attracted a huge number of curious visitors. The expo could be enjoyed from May 11-27 and featured a wealth of wine and cheese products from all over the world.

Programmes on offer during the expo ranged from a wine workshop and a wine dinner to a special wine-and-food tasting and the Indonesia Best Sommelier competition.

PT Mazda Motor Indonesia has just officially launched its compact crossover SUV in Indonesia, the Mazda CX-5. A launch event was held at the Grand Ballroom of Hotel Indonesia Kempinski on May 10 and was attended by top brass from the Mazda Motor Corporation. The new model is now available at Mazda dealers around Indonesia.

Wine and cheese

Five alive

www.mazda.co.id

www.wineandcheeseexpo.com

central park mall

The centre of attention Central Park Mall, self-claimed as “Jakarta’s new shopping icon”, has just won three prestigious awards at Asia Pacific Property Awards 2012 in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. They won the 5 Star Awards for the category of Best Public Development and also two Highly

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On April 26, Dunhill held a very exclusive lunch at Social House.

The lunch introduced Dunhill Mild, Dunhill’s newest cigarette, to the public and under a Time for Change theme. Dunhill challenged three notable chefs to create dishes based on the Dunhill Mild slogan of “Relock, fine cut and more”. Social House’s chef, Tristan Balian, was one of the culinary experts who took up this challenge and he presented two delicious new entrees: cauliflower soup with twenty seasonings and pan-seared sea bass. Next it was the turn of chef Andhika Maxi, who offered up a main course of a finecut marbled wagyu meat based dish. And last but not least, TV personality and talented dessert chef, Bara Pattiradjawane, served up his unique Relock themed dessert, a blend of caramelised Ambonese walnuts, chocolate and strawberry sauce.

Commended awards for the categories of Best Retail Development and Asia Pacific’s Best Mixed-Use Development.

On top of that, they were also nominated in the Best Public Service Development category at International Property Awards 2012. At the former award event, Central Park Mall competed with other contestants from 23 Asia Pacific countries. www.centralparkjakarta.com

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Rewind

gold’s gym

Healthy youth Gold’s Gym has just opened its first university facility in Indonesia at the University of Indonesia. Gold’s Gym Express can be found down in the Crystal of Knowledge Library in the University of Indonesia and was officially opened on May 9. In addition to weightlifting equipment, the fitness centre also offers gym classes, including TRX and Zumba.

There’s also a boxing corner on hand for budding Mike Tysons to build up a sweat in. the ritz-carlton jakarta

house of lusense

House of happiness House of Lusense is a one-stop shop if you’re looking for a little relaxation with a sprinkle of pampering on top. This great new joint was officially opened on April 26 and houses a beauty salon, a beauty clinic, a boutique, a cafe and even a florist, all in a glamourously modern atmosphere. House of Lusense welcomes both men and women and aims to cater to all of their relaxation and me time needs.

Jl. KH Ahmad Dahlan No.45, Kebayoran Baru, T: 021 7280 0333

Wine from Down Under

The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place was proud to host a very special Margaret River Culinary & Wine Experience series of events from April 25-28. There were celebrity guest chefs on hand, as well as winemakers from the Margaret River region of Australia and renowned Jakarta foodie, Petty Elliot. The schedule included a celebrity guest chef and winemakers dinner, a masterchef class, a wine market and a wine tasting experience. Wine dinners have become commonplace around Jakarta of late, however this four-day grape-fuelled extravaganza saw The RitzCarlton raising the bar with regard to the city’s blossoming love affair with fine wine.

four seasons hotel jakarta

Mother’s Day fun

Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta, with the full support of JJK, held a very special Mother’s Day Sunday Brunch on May 13. The brunch took place at the Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta’s popular Seasons Café and featured a myriad selection of Western and Eastern dishes to graze on. The hotel had also turned the pool veranda into a fabulous playground for kids, complete with an inflatable bouncy castle. Kids and mums were also given the chance to join a painting session with Sasya Tranggono and Nicholas Hilman, a mother and son pair of artists, whose paintings are being showcased in the Four Seasons lobby until June 8.

The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place, T: 021 2550 1888

FORTIES

Top Fourties The ex-Café Amor in Kemang is now housing a new self-proclaimed onestop entertainment spot called Fourties. With its restaurant, wine house and KTV concept, this ambitious place is aimed squarely at young professional adults looking for a fun meeting place, as well as families wanting to enjoy a relaxing Sunday morning breakfast. The restaurant itself can accommodate up to 300 guests and is open from 6am until 3am, while the KTV facility has eight rooms, which operate from 10pm until 2am.

Jl. Kemang Raya No. 67, T: 021 719 1333

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BORN TO BE WILD / IMAX IN JAKARTA / WHAT’S HIP ABOUT THE HIPSTERS

THE BIG J

Born to be wild Like it or not, street racing is an integral part of Jakarta’s rich tapestry

BY Simon Pitchforth

getty images

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asty brutes on motorcycles tooling around town in gangs terrorising the general public have been hitting the headlines of late. In the most notorious case, a gang of not-so-easy riders went on a violent spree in North Jakarta between April 7 and April 13, leaving two dead and 15 injured in their wake, not to mention a lot of damaged iron steeds and robbery victims to boot.

It later turned out that the attacks had been committed in retaliation for the murder of a gang member, who

had allegedly been offed by a man riding a Kawasaki Ninja motorcycle.

The gang thus, in a highly logical move, took revenge on anyone that they came across who happened to be riding a Kawasaki Ninja. But there are six million motorcycles in the greater Jakarta area, so these scoundrels were always going to be up against it in their quest to achieve some kind of Kawasaki Final Solution.

The rather disturbing denouement to this heartwarming tale came when it was revealed that the gang members in question were allegedly also members

of the Indonesian armed forces enjoying a bit of recreational time away from their barracks. It remains to be seen whether these miscreants will face proper justice or will instead be sentenced to an immediate cessation of bakso rations by a military tribunal.

Other stories of biker-gang violence have surfaced in recent months, including more stabbings, fatalities, full-on brawls and motorcycle torchings, and such conflagrations are representative of a trend that seems to sadly be on the up. Far more

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common among the country’s junior petrol heads is the phenomenon of street racing, which can be witnessed in many cities throughout Indonesia, and indeed the rest of the world.

Such races don’t usually involve the stabbing of rival gang members or innocent bystanders, but these informal evenings of speed still manage to claim a fair number of victims. A recent example occurred in Pekelongan in Central Java.

Four teenagers were killed simultaneously during a race when one bike crashed into another, triggering a domino effect involving four bikes.

Several other riders were also left with multiple fractures and critical head injuries which, I would speculate, were probably exacerbated by the riders in question sporting those polyurethane baseball caps that are

laughingly called helmets here, or more likely no helmets at all.

Fatalities also occur regularly in Jakarta and popular street tracks on the Ojeg Moto GP Tour can be found in Lenteng Agung (LA to its fans), Permata Hijau, Taman Mini, Mampang, Kemayoran, Senayan and indeed in quite a lot of other spots around town as well.

In fact, if you have lived in the Indonesian capital for any length of time then you’re bound to have come across such 120 decibel/kilometreper-hour acts of lunacy at some point on your wanderings.

These race evenings are often fuelled by a high-octane mix of Bir Bintang, Red Bull, that dodgy, alcoholic Cap Anggur stuff and perhaps even a splash of Pertamax Plus that local roadside warungs mix together in plastic bags tied up with elastic bands with

The Indonesian police occasionally nab both bike and car racers alike, but the races

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straws coming out the top. Possibly such fruity cocktails have played their part in many a racer taking God’s final chequered flag.

Young working-class teenagers like to get their kicks though and to forget, if just for a while, the often pitiless grind of this relentless city.

Racing offers thrills and a healthy shot of adrenaline that is possibly not that dissimilar to the feelings produced by jumping out of a plane at 15,000 feet or climbing Mount Everest, and will thus always have its attractions.

If you live on the other side of the economic miracle, then life can be a pretty grey and changeless affair, shut out of life’s great mall, with little chance of ever enjoying swanky restaurants, regular holidays abroad and all that the modern world’s consumption driven mores can bring. One way around this daily struggle and tedium is to place your trust in the Almighty and have faith that those who were last in this world will be kings and queens in the next. Another way is to dice with a kamikaze speed dual of death.

However, just to offer an antithesis to this cosy socioeconomic argument, it should also be noted that Jakarta’s well-heeled kids are equally partial to a good burn up, albeit on four wheels rather than two. Such car races have, on one occasion at least I’m embarrassed to say, seen your intrepid correspondent disembarking from his Bluebird taxi in order to remonstrate furiously with the snotty nosed young brats involved, as they were holding up the traffic for minutes on end. (I had deduced, rightly it turned out, that I was unlikely to get stabbed by these Honda Jazzsouping-upping little horrors.)

The Indonesian police occasionally nab both bike and car racers alike, but the races continue and, due to a lack of traffic-monitoring equipment such as speed cameras, few daredevils are ever prosecuted. There’ll seemingly always be a need for speed. Rich or poor, the desire for some visceral, genuine spark of primal excitement and emotion that is neither mediated nor acculturated by the ubiquitous electronic screen still resonates. As one drag racer told me, “It’s a dangerous hobby for sure, but so is hang gliding or rock climbing. I’m an adrenaline junkie.”

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PlayBooks

Old body, current mind Renown for his skills as a conversationalist, it’s incredible how strong and clear Thomas De Quincey’s voice still is after all this time

B

efore Kindle, even before the word e-book was first coined, there was Project Gutenberg, a not for profit organisation almost as revolutionary as its namesake, dedicated to the digitisation and free distribution of books out of copyright, many of which were destined for oblivion. Michael S Hart, who began Project Gutenberg in 1971, died in September last year aged 64. The project’s first publication, typed

by Hart himself onto the enormous mainframe computer he was given access to at the University of Illinois, was the “American Declaration of Independence” and since then almost 40,000 titles have been added to its collection, the majority of them works of literature in English.

To improve access regardless of readers’ bandwidth or the age of their computers, books in the Project Gutenberg collection are available as simple online text although in the last few years they have also been offered in several downloadable file types including one designed for e-readers and other mobile devices.

With the rise of Kindle and other e-book formats, the steady decline of paper print media, and the opening up and digitising of other collections of print and images, it’s become apparent that what for many years could have been seen as a niche fringe archival project, was the bold avant-garde of a new way of thinking about the future of text, how it is distributed, and how we engage with it as readers.

With the rise and rise of Kindle, iBooks and other commercial online publishers, it could be that Project Gutenberg’s work is done.

The aspect of this shift to digital, and especially online reproduction and distribution that I find most fascinating is the conversation it has enabled between different places and different points in time in the history of literature.

Admittedly, as suggested by the imbalance in Project Gutenberg’s collection to date, readers of English have been privileged in this regard but a number of branches of the project are spreading into other languages.

The selection is enormous, all of it free, and the project’s website (www.gutenberg.

De Quincey could just as easily – barring a few nineteenth century idioms – be sitting in the cafe at that table over there.

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June 2012

org) and search function is the epitome of stripped back, user friendliness. Every day it lists the 100 most downloaded. The most popular yesterday – at 1280 downloads – was “The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes” by Arthur Conan Doyle. For me these last couple of weeks it’s been the works of Thomas de Quincey (1785-1859), in particular his “Miscellaneous Essays” originally published in 1851, that includes the satiric piece “Murder considered as one of the fine arts” and others that assert his fascination with the sordid goings on of mid-nineteenth century London. I am one of 363 people to download it to date.

Renown for his skills as a conversationalist, it’s incredible how strong and clear his voice still is after all this time. He could just as easily – barring a few nineteenth century idioms – be sitting in the cafe at that table over there, holding forth with a fresh take on an issue or sensational crime of the day, gesticulating above the sound of the espresso machine. He would turn to human weakness and the powers of addiction as factors at the core of these events, factors he was personally acquainted with, before walking to his tumbledown home, his wife and tribe of sickly children, to commit his thoughts to paper with pen and ink and submit it for publication in one of the magazines then in circulation.

–peter stephenson

Miscellaneous essays Thomas De Quincey, 1851

!!!!!

June 2012

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PlayFilm

IMAX to the max Has the city’s new IMAX theatre wowed Jakartans or proved itself a turkey?

The idea Jakartans have been waiting for a new, commercial IMAX studio for years. The one in Taman Mini Indonesia Indah doesn’t really count you see, as it almost never plays blockbuster movies.

This year though, the long wait finally came to an end as Indonesia’s largest cinema chain, Cinema 21, officially opened its new IMAX theatre at Gandaria City Mall on May 4. The challenge to bring IMAX to Indonesia has finally been met by Cinema 21 and Catherine Keng, the corporate secretary promoting the new studio claims that, “The images will be crystal clear. The sound is digitalaligned and the theatre is immersive.”

The setting Located at Gandaria City Mall, Jakarta’s first IMAX cinema costs a whopping US$ 2 million to build. This is the first commercial 2-D and 3-D IMAX theatre in the country and is equipped with a 220sqm wide screen and 391 seats. IMAX is a format that uses extraordinarily highresolution film and projection techniques to create a higher-impact of cinematic experience, thus watching a film on IMAX takes the common-or-garden movie evening to whole new level.

The buzz Jakarta’s cinephiles went crazy when this new IMAX super theatre opened and Cinema 21’s online ticketing service slammed into overload as people eagerly booked seats for the

shows. The first movie to be screened was “The Avengers” and the performance received a highly positive response from moviegoers, with most saying that they had just experienced something truly sensational, thanks to IMAX’s high-resolution display and awesome sound system.

Despite the multi-million dollar cost of the theatre, Cinema 21 are generously offering affordable tickets for their new baby. Weekday 2-D shows cost only Rp. 50,000 while 3-D shows clock in at Rp. 70,000. At the weekend, 2-D shows cost Rp. 70,000 while 3-D shows cost Rp. 100,000. Basically these are the cheapest IMAX tickets in the world!

Alas online ticketing was only available during the theatre’s opening weekend (May 4-6) and tickets can now only be bought on the spot.

This is where the problems begin as the queues can be unbearable at Gandaria City XXI during the day. A couple of ticketing glitches have also held things up. The first incident occurred on May 5 when numerous seats for the 12.45pm show were double-booked, once through the MTIX ticketing centre and once at the ticket booth.

This resulted in numerous audience members holding the same seat numbers.

Doh! The second incident happened on May 7, which delayed the 3.30pm screening for over an hour. Cinema 21 should really get a handle on these ticketing problems if they want their IMAX flagship to continue to shine.

Despite these minor ticketing glitches, the experience of watching a film, especially a 3-D one, in an IMAX theatre is an unforgettable one. Crystalclear images and a booming surround-sound system is guaranteed. And finally, take a tip from us: the best seats in the house are probably to be found in row D. Buckle up and prepare to be blown away!

–YOHANES SANDY

gett y images

The first movie to be screened was “The Avengers”.

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June 2012

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What’s hip about the hipster?

Jakarta’s burgeoning hipster movement is injecting local youth culture with a heavy dose of knowing irony

F

or the better part of a decade now, there has been a steady trickle of international news stories about Indonesia being a home to some of the world’s most feared terrorists and catastrophic natural disasters. On the other hand, Indonesia’s macroeconomic outlook and credit rating has been raised to investment

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grade level for the first time since the crippling financial crisis of the late ’90s, and this has transformed Jakarta into one of world’s fastest developing capitals, flush with resource riches and with a burgeoning consumer market that has made the metropolis into an Asian trendsetter.

This newfound wealth easily explains the increasingly common telltale signs

of “hipsterism” in Jakarta. Trucker caps, skinny jeans, tattoos, Ray Ban sunnies, tees emblazoned with ironic statements and United States of Tara’s Buck-related singlets (commonly referred to as the hallmark of working-class whites) have become so ubiquitous that sometimes it seems as if hipsterism has completely entered the Indonesian cultural mainstream. The style has been embraced by well-educated media-and-technologysavvy urban youths who represent Indonesian modernity and the trend is seasoned with a heavy dose of global awareness and, to some extent, irony.

Yes, perhaps irony is the best word with which to sum up the whole hipster weltanschauung. Ultimately though, the key to this subculture remains a puzzle, despite the fact that it has now expanded all the way from Brooklyn’s Williamsburg to South Jakarta’s Cipete.

Subcultures have never had to work so hard to earn their soubriquets though.

GET TY IMAGES

PlayMusic

Hippie, bohemian, punk and emo have found themselves a solid place in the globe’s universal subculture, with each successfully cementing a set of cultural membership rules.

Hipsterism though seems to play hide and seek with authenticity and even its members, the hipsters themselves, often find the tag denigrating.

THE MATRIX

It was around the time when Keanu Reeves’ “The Matrix” became an iconic signifier of late-nineties culture that many cultural experts predicted the emergence of hipsterism. “The Matrix” itself was to become painfully uncool in the hipster universe however, as its universal popularity is diametrically opposed to hipsterism’s glorification of lesser-known underground trends and vanguard cultural artefacts. The first rule of becoming a hardcore hipster is to be an early first adopter of novelties and to take great pride in knowing and deciding what’s cool in advance of the rest of the world.

Many hipster musical conversations revolve around that biblical, Wikipediaesque oracle of music, namely Pitchfork. com. Music that doesn’t make it on to Pitchfork is not worth paying attention to, however once more than five countries have claimed that a specific album deserves five Pitchfork stars, then the disc in question is by definition passé.

Ultimately though, as Robert BurtonBradley on Australia’s online medium of national debate “The Punch” stated about hipsters: “They stand for nothing. The less you care about anything, the cooler you are, and therefore the more authority you have in passing judgment on others.”

In their quest to appear effortless, these middle-class white youngsters are forever struggling to find a balance between knowingness, naivety and liberated self-awareness. This pursuit leads to particular genres of music that promote eternal youth and freedom – something that the alternative music from the 1990s was also trying to strive for.

At this time, The Smashing Pumpkins, Radiohead and The Smiths were perhaps the top three acts that shaped the movement’s foundation. They were followed by the invasion of the knowingly retro stylings of The White Stripes, The Strokes and Interpol in early 2000s.

Nowadays, the ’80s revival has been ushered in and with the rise of social media, electronic music that is the result of low-budget, bedroom recording sessions can go viral within the space of a few short hours (bear in mind that Indonesia is presently home to some of the biggest

Facebook and Twitter communities in the world, despite the fact that only 20 per cent of its population can be found on the internet at all).

French duo Justice, Australian duo Empire of The Sun, the Spanish-French act M83 and American chillwave pioneers, Toro Y Moi, are just a few examples of the countless electronic acts that have become venerated for integrating farting digi-beats into their sound and calling the results avant-garde. Hipster music in other words.

FASHION STATEMENTS

Hipster regions are clusters of crossroads where individual hipsters cram together, jockeying for social status, which is where irony comes into the picture. What is highly noticeable in hipsterism is that its fashions are extremely, if ironically, consumerist. Fashionable here does not necessarily mean the wearing of famous brands, but instead conforming to the first rule of being a fashionista hipster: the requirement to sport unknown brands or idiosyncratic styles for the sake of making a fashion statement that is daring and above all, different.

The emotional expressions worn on the sleeves seem to suggest some kind of ironic, anti-consumer therapy in fact. The cringeworthy fashion pages of youth-oriented magazines, with their street models seemingly desperate to prove themselves as members of the gang via captions that say, “Shirt by Danjyo Hyoji, cardie by Topman, shoes by Marc Jacobs and sunnies

by Ray Ban – VINTAGE,” are inverted but ultimately recreated in the conformist skinny jeans, thick-rimmed, big-lensed glasses, neoncoloured trousers, flowerprint shirts, geeky haircuts, preppy shoes and oversized jumpers of the hipster.

Another notable item of choice for the contemporary hipsters is the fixed-gear bike, which is favoured not for its simple mechanism but instead, more ironically, as a multicoloured, dysfunctional contrast to the hustle and bustle of the endless city traffic.

Cause” and “The Royal Tenenbaums”.

It waxes and wanes with preoccupied thoughts of living a fame-driven life of youthful energy and social climbing.

An awareness of global issues is also now making inroads into hipsterism.

Concern for the problems in Africa, or the desire to become a vegetarian, is still shot through with knowing irony though.

Jakarta hipsters are a somewhat unique brand. This city ain’t NY, London or Sydney and any formulaic, international hipster agenda cannot be fully be applied here. Nevertheless, the trend is growing rapidly, which means you’ll find members of this counterculture at Roxette, The Cranberries or LMFAO concerts.

One thing for sure is that partying plays an important role in hipsterism.

Party photographs by Last Night’s Party, Terry Richardson or the Cobra Snake are also attracting growing interest for their candid shots, which can validate a hipster’s social status by the number of trashy photos that turn up on social media.

Among other amusing photographic motifs and oddities are the gleefully raised middle finger and the covering of half of the face. Moreover, being photographed with caucasians also means a bonus point towards getting one’s hands on the hipster crown, as they personify superior luxury and (perhaps) the NY-London-Sydney hipster formula. However, this eventually leads to the question: didn’t Indonesians stop feeling inferior to Western forces before August 17, 1945?

Whatever the answer is, hipsterism is a part of human psychological development in the modern world and is likely to be an unstoppable cultural force. But if the term itself now denotes a lifestyle that everyone is aware of, then what is its vital essence when a ten-year-old Google-surfing kid can easily figure out how the style works?

Perhaps a time-honoured quest for individualism and power over a common human nature is the driving force behind the continued success of hipsterism.

In other words, those from decent backgrounds unconsciously justify their privileges by pretending that their tastes and intellect are proof of their superiority.

Ultimately though, the key to this subculture remains a puzzle, despite the fact that it has now expanded all the way from Brooklyn’s Williamsburg to South Jakarta’s Cipete.

LMFAO

Ultimately, hipsterism is a rather elitist counterculture. Call it a marriage between the films “Rebel without a

–Luky Annash

June 2012

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PlayGadgets

Plug and play Time to get wires for sound Adidas Sennheiser CX 680 These futuristically designed earbuds are definitely designed with the gym addict in mind. How so? Well, they stay firmly in place during intensive physical workouts for one. Sennheiser, in collaboration with sporting legends Adidas, have here taken workout listening to a whole new level.

DESIGN

These in-ear music machines sport a rather futuristic design. The black contrasts vividly with the neon yellow Kevlar cable and earbuds, which are

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constructed from a highly durable material that is resistant to both water and perspiration. These babies can thus be rinsed off if you end up sweating all over them. The sharkfin design is flexible and provides a secure fit, while the two-foot-long cable allows you to move freely.

The cable features an inline volume control, which allows you to control your sounds without fumbling with physical volume buttons on your player or the on-screen slide of an iPod Touch. Alas, despite the sophisticated looks, Sennheiser and Adidas have designed these headphones for listening to music only, so there’s no microphone for taking calls with.

AUDIO PERFORMANCE

Lower frequencies are articulated with accuracy and clarity by the CX 680s, so you won’t miss any of those kick drum hits as you synchronise your jog to the funky rhythms. However, despite the crisp, clear sound, the bass levels are a little on the low side in terms of volume, although not disappointingly so.

We can safely say that the sound produced by the CX 680s is basically respectable though. Notso-mind-blowing sound aside, the design of the CX 680s is the real winner here and these are a great choice for sporty types.

Monster Beats

by Dr Dre

Unless you’ve been meditating in a cave for the last twelve months, then you’ll probably have noticed a lot of trendy people walking around wearing headphones with a distinctive “b” logo on them. After originally being launched back in 2009, Dr Dre’s monsters have become a global favourite and fashion statement. In fact, you can even find knocked-off versions down on Kaskus.

DESIGN

These ones look really good and arrive in some seriously premium packaging. The red cable sort of reminds us of Apple’s iconic white iPod cables, which people seemed so crazy about a few years back. The build quality of the headphones themselves is second to none and two audio cables – one standard 3.5mm cable and another that’s compatible with ControlTalk - come included in the package.

With the ControlTalk cable, you can control the volume without having to delve into your pocket and you can also receive calls using this feature.

AUDIO PERFORMANCE

Despite the good looks and the packaging that screams premium, the Monster Beats sound quality doesn’t really measure up to scratch.

The low end sounds weak, which means that bassheavy music can sound very hollow. For headphones carrying the name of a hip hop producer, this is particularly surprising. The midrange and the high end also leave a lot to be desired.

The ear cups are basically not large enough to create any sort of tight seal around the ears, and this leads to a further loss of definition.

Moreover, the sound leakage will annoy the person sitting next to you. As a pricey set of cans carrying one of the biggest names in music, this headset definitely needs improvement in terms of sound quality. We have to say that only a cool design saves this headset from total embarrassment.

–YOHANES SANDY

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PlayCommunity Where did the idea for these events come from?

SU This project represents part of grandkemang’s CSR commitments, which we usually engage in twice a year. The first mission, Sweet Lolly Valentine, was conceived as an initiative that would make Valentine’s Day a little bit different. Instead of chocolate, we picked lollipops, which we believe have a more general appeal. For Easter Care, we created a series of activities ranging from a fun bike to an Easter brunch and a barbecue night. Why a fun bike? Well we wanted to promote our sister hotel Mesa Stila, which styles itself as a health retreat.

Grandkemang Hotel takes the lead in helping kids with HIV/AIDS

BY Yohanes Sandy

O

ver the past few months, the chic grandkemang Hotel has held a number of charity events aimed at helping youngsters with cancer and HIV/AIDS. The first event, Sweet Lolly Valentine, was held back in February and for the whole month 20 per cent of the total amount raised by sales of lollipops was donated to the Bali Pink Ribbon charity.

A second fund-raising event arrived on April 1 in the form of a fun bike involving

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various bikers from companies all over town. The fun bike followed a return route from the grandkemang Hotel to the National Museum and the event was followed by an Easter Care Brunch a week later on April 8.

Sri Utami (SU) and Ayutia Evilia (AE) from the hotel chatted with JJK about these charitable endeavours, the kids whose lives they are aiming to transform, and how these youngsters have touched the hearts of the participants.

Did you receive help from other companies with regards to Easter Care?

SU Yes, we were helped by Bank Pundi, who supplied almost half of the total participants for our fun bike. There were 280 participants in total, double what we had expected.

AE We were also supported by Mesa Stila, UNITED Bike and Aqua during the fun bike event.

Why did you pick National Museum?

SU At first, we thought about the National Monument, however this has become too much of a cliché.

So we decided to make the National Museum our destination because after all we had plenty of kids with us and we thought that it would

Maulana Rizki + scott thompson

Care for kids

How did you decide on the charity and the issue that you ended up supporting?

SU We were already familiar with the Bali Pink Ribbon organisation, so it was easy to approach them. It was also easier to raise awareness of the issues that they concern themselves with, as Bali Pink Ribbon is already quite well known.

AE Last year we supported kids’ cancer charities while this year we are focusing on children living with HIV/AIDS. The Syair Untuk Sahabat Foundation is a really great organisation and was chosen

by Mr Richard [Richard Daguise, managing director & CEO of Restyle International]. We could have picked Yayasan AIDS Indonesia but their coverage is so general and we were afraid that the donations wouldn’t have gone to the people we were aiming to help.

be the perfect place for them to play and learn. Shockingly, most of our participants had never been there before.

Tell us about the Easter Care Brunch AE We were supported by a number of celebrities and many of them came with their families to enjoy the lavish food provided. We also invited kids from Syair Untuk Sahabat to the brunch and they played with us and joined a fun cooking class with some of the guests’ kids. It was a precious moment to see them all having fun and laughing.

How much money have you raised from these Easter Care activities?

SU During the Easter period, we managed to raise Rp. 45 million for the Syair Untuk SAHABAT Foundation, which will be used for various campaigns and to provide medicine and education for kids and their parents.

What awareness is grandkemang trying to raise through this charity?

AE We want to spread awareness that kids with HIV/AIDS still deserve the

We want to spread awareness that kids with HIV/AIDS still deserve the opportunity to live a normal life.

opportunity to live a normal life because in Indonesia, people with HIV/AIDS are discriminated against and often alienated by society. Syair Untuk Sahabat has a similar mission to us so we can relate to them. They campaign and raise awareness about HIV/AIDS, educating people about the disease so that they

won’t be afraid of kids or adults who are living with HIV/AIDS. What are your plans for the near future?

SU We are going to organise another charity event during Ramadan with help from local Islamic organisations. We will give away goodie bags consisting of basic needs and stationery to disadvantaged people living in the Kemang and Cilandak areas.

AE Next year, we might do something for street children or kids from Jakarta’s poor areas. So far we have been focusing on children and we will do whatever we can to help them.

June 2012

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FASHION NEWS / NIGHT FICTION / INDUSTRIAL NIGHTS

vanity

The bigger, the better Embodying a sense of feminine, sleek chic and modern for its spring/summer 2012, Mango, ck Calvin Klein dan DKNY gave us clean lines and shape, shown off to full effect by this neat big casual clucth – an easy way to inject stylish and elegant into the chic summer dress or summer suit. They will work wonders with your classic little black dress too.

From top Mango, Calvin Klein, DKNY, Marc by Marc Jacobs (2)

June 2012

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PauseVanity

Fashion news Our monthly update on what’s in vogue in Jakarta’s fashion world and beyond

Print mania Summer is the season of super-print mania, and head-totoe mismatched and clashing floral-and-animal prints are all the rage. At Carven, modern geometric designs in pastel or bright colours are the order of the day. While down at Proenza Schouler, a floraltribute collection inspired by beautiful gardens is the centre of the label’s spring/summer 2012 collection. This weekend, try a floral-print summer mini dress in pastel shades for an elegant cocktail choice. Enjoy!

Style evolution We’re talking bright and beautiful here. Exotic leather and brightly coloured bags are the spring trend that’s set to stick around until the autumn. Yes, Tod’s iconic D Bag gets a new spring/summer twist for 2012 with an evolution of the original design and some high-quality materials: piton and matte crocodile.

Created from the most beautiful leathers and made to the highest levels of craftsmanship and technical expertise, the D Bag is super-soft, with a natural finish, and comes in a new range of colours: lemon yellow, purple, forest green, turquoise, mandarin and fuchsia. Swing one of these brightly coloured bags to add some zing to your spring basics.

New vision This season’s Superdry women’s optical collection offers timeless classicism and cat’seye stylings. The men’s collection sports retro-chic stylings with a contemporary design twist.

Superdry’s unique style, materials and detail incorporates wood and tortoiseshell and a natural colour palette. The Superdry Optical Collection aims to define contemporary, accessible eyewear and to become a future classic. The collection is available at Optik Melawai from this month.

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Prints impressions Totally tropical, totally chic, it has to be the Etro Scarf spring/ summer 2012 accessories collection.

Fasten this eclectic print scarf over a crisp white shirt or tank top and tie your hair into a messy chignon to show it off.

Wear large bangles or offset with jeans and a shirt for the perfect high/ low mix and the perfect summer look.

Floral mania The Furla fashion label has launched a new spring/summer 2012 collection with its flower series. Launched in February 2011, this renowned, Italian, leather-goods label offers a touch of summer colour through its new handbag collection. This latest collection offers some playful designs and the brand’s creative directors have worked some serious design magic to come up with handbags, a tote bag and an evening bag inspired by floral romance, gardens, pastel colours and exquisite femininity.

Neutral runner

Moozee mania Good news for lovers of Moozee bags. The spring/summer 2012 collection from this hip Indonesian label features calfskin leather bags styled with colour blocks, patchwork details and mixed materials, and purple and orange predominate. The collection is modern and witty and its big sizes work perfectly to create something that will stay by your side all day long.

Summer chick AN orange summer dress works well with a necklace. Make a bold seasonal statement at your next private beach party and really shine. Choose a round, yellow bag FROM KATE SPADE for extra sparkle.

The 890v2 (New Balance has now adjusted its numbering system so that the model number stays the same and a version number is added) looks fresh but keeps things pretty much where they were with the v1. There are a few technological changes in store, which will come as good news for those of you who wish shoe companies would leave things well alone more often. The 890 fans among you will still feel the benefit of full-length ABZORB cushioning, RevLite midsoles, and an openmesh, non-sewn upper.

The lady bag This supersized tote bag offers travel in style. Up your fashion sense with exotic materials, such as crocodile and feathers. Louis Vuitton’s fall/winter 2012 offerings include a new stylishly seasonal bag collection with a modern twist.

From natural primaries to pretty red gradations, Louis Vuitton bags come with jewelled buckles and boast plenty of feminine finesse.

June 2012

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PauseVanity

Polo me This polo shirt collection incorporates elements of 1960s sportswear design blended with some updated touches.

Perfect for spring and summer.

Neon-coloured collars and urban prints feature on the Fred Perry polo shirts, while iconic polo-shirt fashion label, Lacoste offers block colours and bold stripes in bright colours.

Perfect for any guy’s wardrobe, the slim cuts and prints are a highlight of this seasons collections and are a favourite of ours, enjoy!

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Gaultier coke We’re in for some surprising and inspirational designs, as CocaCola has announced an exciting partnership with international fashion icon, Jean Paul Gaultier. The brand has appointed the worldrenowned fashion designer as its new creative director, and Gaultier will work his magic on a range of Coca-Cola light projects in 2012.

Gaultier will bring his creative flair and fashion prowess to a limited edition collection of show-stopping bottles and cans. “The bottles have the shape of a woman’s body, so it was great fun to ‘dress’ them. The Coca-Cola light motif is so beautiful I had to design around this. The finishing touch was to apply my logo to the bottle, like applying a fragile stamp – making it something special you want to touch,” Gaultier explains.

Game on Discover this season’s most chic shoes: colour-pop heels, feminine peep toes, evening flats and avant-garde models. Salvatore Ferragamo’s spring/summer 2012 peep toes are embellished only with drapery details and satin, and make for some classic evening wear.

As for the men, listen up sports fans, as leather sneakers and brightly coloured shoes will give your sporty style a little chic lux this spring.

Just for men

Modern masculinity This season, Krisvanassche embodies the latest fruits of Lee’s labour and the heritage and expertise of this authentic denim brand mix with the sophisticated world of Kris Van Assche, where modern masculinity is of the essence. This style works in two colours and work-wear blue combines with dark brown to create a pleasantly muted match. The designer has used work-wear cotton and in this season’s collection Kris has also reinterpreted iconic Lee archive pieces such as its denim jacket, blouson jeans, jeans shirt and many more.

Made of leather and in spring colours, this Longchamp tote bag for men is the ultimate travel accessory and is perfect for a business trip or a weekend getaway. It should go well with Bermuda shorts or a vintage T-shirt. The natural palette used here should also be ideal for the office if you know how to tame a tote bag. Add the clean lines of a shirt, formal pants and a jacket and you’ll look both clean and modern.

Buckled up!

These natural leather sandals boast a minimalist design and with summer in full swing, there’s no better time to style a pair of FitFlops. We just love FitFlop’s modern-looking clean-cut, spring/summer 2012 collection. Casual chic par excellence.

June 2012

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PauseInvogue Photographer Andre

Night fiction 48

June 2012

Wiredja

Stylist

Chekka

Hello, Stranger

On Yulia: Pink lace top, Mango. Tweed boxy blazer, Mango.

Peach lace pencil skirt, Sapto Djojokartiko.

Necklace, stylist’s own.

On Reza: Purple shirt, stylist’s own. Studded blazer, NO’OM. Floral tie, stylist’s own.

June 2012

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PauseInVogue

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June 2012

Follow me around

Left On Yulia: Black tweed boxy blazer and white dress, Mango.

Necklace, stylist’s own.

On Reza: Blazer shirt, Monday To Sunday. Black pants, NO’OM. Bowtie, stylist’s own.

We’re gonna have a real good time

Top On Yulia: Pink lace top, Mango. Tweed boxy blazer, Mango.

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One hell of a party

On Yulia: Baby blue tweed tube dress with a transparent coat, Mel Ahyar. Necklace, stylist’s own. On Reza: Shirt, Monday To Sunday. Tie, Stylist’s own. Blazer, Magistus House

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When the night is still young

Opposite page On Yulia: Lace dress, Sapto Djojokartiko.

Red blazer, Mango.

Accessories, stylist’s own. On Reza: Pink shirt, Monday to Sunday. Prints blazer, Magistus House.

Red bowtie, stylist’s own.

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After hours

On Yulia: Sack dress, Sapto Djojokartiko.

On Reza: Shirt, Monday to Sunday. Blazer, Magistus House.

Bowtie, stylist’s own.

Make up: Nathalia Tjhoei Ass . Photographer: Dadi Pribadi Location: Cafe Batavia, Jl. Pintu Besar Utara, T: 021 691 5531

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The view in the room Here are some of the latest furniture products that you really should take a long, hard look at before you start decorating or revamping your living space

BY Deisha Tamar

E-shelf Constructed from iron by the brilliant minds down at AEDI Interior Design, this contemporary, E-shaped wallbookshelf will not only keep your books organised, but also lend any room a cool, urban atmosphere. Price: Rp. 950,000 Available at AEDI

Red lamp If you are looking for a unique table lamp, this red lamp fashioned from curved red iron and sporting a dark grey lampshade should attract plenty of admiring glances. This one also comes in grey.

Price: Rp. 1,450,000 Available at AEDI

Rusty cabinet This rusty cabinet is made out of pine wood and was designed by Moje. A timeless piece that will suit all types of room.

Price: Rp. 2,500,000 Available at Moje Natural Furnishing

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Sake glass Forget about those boring old shot glasses. a sake glass is a must if you are thinking of throwing a modern house party.

The distinctive design of this particular ricewine receptacle will also look good on your living room table.

Small sake glass: Rp. 69,000 Available at Cayenne

Velvet sofa Made in Italy, this comfy sofa comes covered with shiny blue velvet and also sports floral patterns.

This one is perfect for the ladies and adds a feminine touch to any room.

Price on request Available at Freia Home

Wooden chair Inspired by the Windsor chair, AEDI have redefined the classic chair and given it some modern-day design flourishes. The black coating on the edges also adds a muscular feel to this handsome stick of furniture.

Price: Rp. 3,700,000 Available at AEDI

Obi day bed

Vintage cans Replace your ordinary jars with these fun, vintage cans and fill them with sugar, coffee and cookies. Enough to liven up any kitchen.

The Obi Day Bed from Cayenne is ideal for your bedroom or living room, and for those who want to enjoy a quick nap or an afternoon lounge.

Price: Rp. 7,800,000

Price: Rp. 150,000 each Available at Cayenne Available at Moje Natural Furnishing AEDI (Jl. Kemang Timur Raya no. 45B, T: 021 7179 4455), Moje Natural Furnishing (Jl. Moh. Kahfi I No. 26, Jagakarsa, T: 021 7883 0707) Freia Home (Kemang Square 2nd floor, Jl. Kemang Raya, T: 021 7179 4712), Cayenne (Jl. Kemang Selatan No. C2, T: 021 718 0817)

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Industrial nights

The Pullman Jakarta Central Park boldly goes where no Jakarta hotel has gone before

kiki djaffar

BY Deisha Tamar

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he new Pullman Jakarta Central Park is a hotel that successfully mixes the worlds of art and leisure, and in terms of its design, the new Pullman undeniably raises the trendy boutiquehotel bar a few notches.

Located in the heart of West Jakarta, behind Central Park mall, the Pullman Jakarta Central Park brings a raw, industrial concept to its design. The hotel might not look extra special from the outside, but once you step into the lobby, a supremely modern feel embraces you, as if you have been transported into another space entirely.

The first thing you might notice as you enter the lobby is the human-shaped statue hanging in the top corner above the reception desk. Two panels with engraved box patterns serve as the background for the reception area, while silver table lamps mix with the square white reception desk to produce a clean and cool ambience.

Meanwhile, over in the central area, a wooden bench and zebrapatterned carpet give the space a more mellow setting, and the addition of collages on the upper walls also adds a nice aesthetic touch to the proceedings.

The lobby-area ceiling features raw pipes, which add an industrial feel, but according to Ali Mustafa, the hotel’s marketing and communications personnel, most of the locals simply assume that the hotel is unfinished!

Imuthia Yanindra, the hotel’s marketing and communications manager told JJK that, “We want to bring a 1960s pop-art feel to the hotel and evoke the era of Andy Warhol, which is why we have brought in various paintings, statues and other interior design elements that support our vision of the hotel.”

On the right side of the lobby, the twisting and colourful Bunk serves as the hotel’s lobby lounge. In every corner of the lounge, you will find unusual decorations, such as a blue and yellow tie-dyed rhino head or a statue depicting part of a female thigh and leg. A spiral structure stands in the middle of Bunk’s spiral staircase, giving a double-illusion effect to the silver iron stairs. The bar area has also been accessorised with huge beaded curtains sporting colourful zebra illustrations, giving the lounge an even more vibrant feel.

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Heading to the lifts, you will pass through a foyer decorated with paintings created by various artists from Yogyakarta, as well as a row of baby statues (which depict tuyul – an Indonesian supernatural creature). These are playing jump rope wearing red bikinis with red apples on their heads! “Initially, these statues weren’t in glass boxes as they are now, but people couldn’t stop touching them, so we had to install the boxes to prevent accidents,” explained Imuthia.

“We want our hotel to be a cross between a modern museum and a designer hotel, which is why we are planning to offer guests and visitors a

device that will allow them to enjoy an artistic tour, and to learn about and enjoy the various artworks that we have down here – just like in a real museum. Our general manager, Fabrice Mini, is also involved in the whole design process, and he even chose the artworks himself.”

Besides Bunk, Pullman also offers Collage, a restaurant that can be found on its L floor and which serves local and international food. Although the restaurant has more of a subtle look to it than Bunk, it still has a pop-art feel to it and features custom-made graffiti paintings and more naked-baby statues standing on a Coke bottle. “The distinctive feature of Collage is

its ceiling. Our interior designer, Miaja, had the idea of a ceiling of peeled wood. There are also quotations from inspiring artist from the 1960s era written on the floor,” explained Imuthia as she delved further into the uniqueness of Collage.

A few metres away from Collage lies a swanky business centre and the Chill Out space. The business centre offers seven meeting rooms named after inspiring artists of the 1960s, including Warhol, Axell, Blake, Drexler and Hamilton. The Chill Out space has a minimalist concept with brown and red sofas done in X shapes, and inverted L-shaped lamps hanging from the ceiling, which give the room more dimension. On the first floor, the Fit and Spa Lounge has a more feminine feel to it, with purple armchairs, a cool red, blue and green painting, and lamps in the shape of lotus leaves.

The Pullman Jakarta Central Park has over 317 rooms, ranging from Superior through Deluxe, Executive Deluxe and finally on up to the Presidential Suite. The modern and eccentric designs that the hotel’s public areas sport can be quite tiring, which is why the hotel has taken things down a notch in their room design, giving things a warmer and more understated ambience. Yet the industrial/ modernist concept hasn’t been abandoned entirely though, as you still can find plenty of pop-art paintings and modern decorations in every room.

Imuthia explained that originally the glass showers that were fitted in all of the hotel’s rooms were clear and transparent, allowing the person taking a shower to be seen by anyone in the room, but because they received a lot of complaints about this from guests, they had to put up stickers that now cover half of the glass.

For all of the hotel’s modern and industrial design elements, the swimming pool and grand ballroom are rather a flop.

The swimming pool is rather too small for a large hotel such as the Pullman, and nothing screams industrial or pop-art at all in the swimming pool area. The grand ballroom also doesn’t match the whole industrial concept found elsewhere in the hotel, since it was designed before the hotel even existed. But despite these minor quibbles, the Pullman Jakarta Central Park is a hotel well worth visiting, especially by those with an eye for art and modernity.

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Promotional Feature

An urban lifestyle

In a city where entertainment and domestic help abound, why let yourself be troubled with your laundry? Especially not when Laundrette is only a phone call away

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ccording to a recent Bloomberg article, Indonesia’s 240 million people are currently “basking in a consumer and resources driven boom.” There are tens of millions of households on the brink of making the leap into the bankable class, the report states. These emerging middle income earners, approximately said to be 35 million and growing annually, are proving eager and discerning consumers, who will seek out and pay for quality.

Paying for quality services is one of the lifestyle traits that allow these middle income earners to instead focus on more important things like climbing the ladder towards success and networking socially and/or professionally. It is not uncommon for those living in Indonesia to have all the resources and services they need at their fingertips.

Examples include doctors who can make a house call, professional hairdresser/makeup artist who offer services in the comfort of your own home and pick-up and delivery services offered by laundry and dry cleaning companies.

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Who are we?

And that’s where we come in.

Laundrette provides you with quality service at your doorstep so that you can focus on working towards your goal and spending your precious moments doing the things you enjoy.

Established in 1985, Laundrette is a privately owned laundry & dry cleaning services company founded to provide an expedient and dependable attire care and cleaning service with a focus on quality.

Known by its brand name, Laundrette is one of the pioneers in the laundry & dry cleaning services industry. Laundrette started its operations with a small workshop and 3 outlets. Fast forward 27 years, Laundrette has now grown to approximately 140 outlets all over Jakarta and Bandung and caters to approximately 10,000 loyal customers in all outlets. Laundrette currently operates out of 2 workshops and has expanded the range of services offered to its customers.

Quality services for quality products Dry-cleaning is a process of cleaning clothes without making use of water.

This process does not involve even the slightest bit of water. However, it

uses other chemicals to clean clothes.

Some delicate clothes can get ruined if they are cleaned by water; they need to undergo dry cleaning to maintain their luster and feel. Dry cleaning process involves the use of a special solvent fluid in which all garments are immersed and cleaned.

Even though you can get your domestic helper to wash and iron most of your clothes, some things like removing stains, getting your shirts steam pressed and wrinkle free, getting your coats dry cleaned, washing draperies and high quality sheets on a regular basis are just some of the things that need to be done by professional laundry companies.

If you think professional laundry cleaning services are just for the affluent, think again. As a matter of fact, even middle class citizens use professional dry cleaning services which nowadays are considered necessary. Gone are the days when they are regarded as luxury.

Professional cleaners can handle tough cleaning. In fact, these services are regularly sought after.

Aside from providing dry cleaning and laundry services for your clothes, Laundrette recently launched several services to meet the customer’s needs:

1. Leather & Suede Special Treatment Leather and Suede jackets are warm and durable but do require extra special care. Because they are made from porous animal hide, these jackets can really hold on to stains. With the right care and proper maintenance, leather jackets can last for many years.

Similar to Leather, suede jackets are rich and beautiful, and have a price tag to prove it. That’s why if you are a suede jacket owner, you would want to do whatever you can to keep it looking new.

The extra effort in suede care will reward you with years of use.

Laundrette offers a special treatment for your leather and suede jackets. By offering a specialized process that requires experience, the right equipment, cleaning products and finishing, Laundrette is able to clean, restore the color and increase the lifespan of your leather and suede giving them a brand new look!

2. Bags, Luggage & Shoes Special Treatment Today’s lifestyle is all about fast, fashion and convenience. People generally have little knowledge of maintaining their bags and shoes.

What also doesn’t help is that the weather is humid and it damages all types of leather bags and shoes easily. Our specialized treatment not only cleans the bags, luggage and shoes, but also removes unwanted odor and bacteria.

3. Household items (Sofa Special Treatment, Linen, Carpets, Curtains) Often times, the living room is where the family gathers to bond, watch TV, laze around and relax. Very rarely do home owners realize that the sofa, carpet and curtains gather dirt, dust and food particles. Regular cleaning would ensure you have a clean and healthy environment to live in. Laundrette not only provides professional cleaning services for your sofa covers, pillow covers, carpets and curtains but our experienced staff can come over to your house and give your sofas a really good clean!

Pick Up and Delivery As if all the above is not enough, we provide a free pickup and delivery service* for all your laundry and dry cleaning needs. Call us at 021-3388 7777 (Jakarta) or 022-611 7777 (Bandung) and we will come to your doorstep!

Keep a look out for our monthly specials!

Follow us on twitter @LaundretteIndo.

You can also find us on facebook (Laundrette Indonesia) or email at us at marketing@laundrette-indo.com. *terms and conditions apply. Certain routes only

4. Baby Specials We realize the little ones are special.

So as part of our appreciation for your little angels, we provide laundry and dry cleaning services for the little ones clothes (babies to 5 year old) at 70% of the price.

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Actus contritionis Agung Kurniawan’s latest solo exhibition takes an unflinching look at the past

BY Mia Maria

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n the Indonesian art scene, the name Agung Kurniawan is familiar to all types of art practitioners.

Kurniawan is better known as Agung Leak, a mythical, devilish long-haired creature from Bali and he acquired this nickname when he was younger and grew his hair long to establish his image as an artist. Agung is also referred to as Bos Tatto by his peers and the legend, “Ojo Dumeh Ojo Gumun” (“Don’t Be Arrogant, Don’t Be Astonished”) is inked on both of his inner arms.

But hey, don’t be put off by the scary

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nicknames as Kurniawan’s personality is the complete opposite of the toughness that his nicknames suggest. He is known as a character that almost everybody feels friendly towards, and he has an encyclopaedic knowledge of everything and everybody in Jogja, which he makes available to anyone who wishes to question him. To add to the irony, he is also an exaltar boy, who until now has never been drunk and who doesn’t smoke. I’m not sure if the tattoos and the nicknames really deserve him to be honest.

While Agung’s nicknames reflect his appearance and his reputation reflects

his personality though, his artwork represents his witty and critical side, and comes intelligently embellished with everyday sarcasm.

Agung is also the owner of Kedai Kebun Forum, and together with his wife, Yustina Neni, the director of Yogya Biennale, they provide a hub, a friendly platform for the Indonesian art scene in Jogja, where food tastes like home and where deep discussions are punctuated by laughter and jokes.

Primarily using iron as his medium, Agung creates dramatic artworks in which shadows become an integral part of the work itself, adding a new visual dimension to the whole experience. Agung’s latest solo exhibition compiles subject matter that he has been incorporating into his body of work over the past few years.

According to the curator of the exhibition, Enin Supriyanto, the first of these three subjects is “The Private Space: Memories and Shadows”, which offers a re-imagining of his family portraits. Memories of childhood, though so distant, often remain intact in our consciousness, shaping our characters and driving us in our logical and emotional states.

I was particularly moved by a piece

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titled “The Watcher”, a happy image of children with a chilling twist of the preternatural, which is set against a background that feels familiar: a typical, middle-class home of my generation. This work mirrors our remembrances of our childhoods, distant images of happiness and fear, reality and myth, that have created multiple layers of character traits in our personalities.

The second section is “The Public Space: Images of Violence, Power and the Artists”. Here, Agung elaborates on the roles of the artist as critic, narrator and politician. He re-narrates events of violence

being victimised and abused by the forces of political darkness.

These epochal events changed the lives of so many. The ideologies shared

by Indonesians were confronted head on and the whole history of the country changed as a result.

Fourteen years later though, these cases of abuse have still not been resolved, and the individuals involved in these heinous acts are still running the police force and the military, while one has even made a bid for the presidency. Through these satiric artworks, Agung is asserting what must not be forgotten.

The third section of Agung’s solo exhibition is “The Automaton: Machine, Drawing, Memory”, in which Agung has created an automatic drawing machine.

Agung himself states that the piece reflects “the most immediate aesthetic expressions, ones that can be detached from the complex intentions and inclinations of the person who draws them”. This is art that lingers long in the memory examines the dimensions of memory itself.

Agung elaborates on the roles of the artist as critic, narrator and politician.

and power struggles that took place in the past, events that changed the history of a nation but which were soon buried by the very changes that they brought about. Forgotten and left behind, it was as if these historic upheavals almost hadn’t happened at all.

“The Change 1998” happened to be exhibited at exactly the right time, and May 2012 is a full 14 years since the tragic events that took place in Jakarta that fateful May, events that saw certain ethnic groups, Indonesian citizens and students

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You know you’re a true Jakartan when…

Drawing the line between the old hands and the newcomers

BY Joezer Mandagi illustrations VIVIAN TAN

This month Jakarta celebrates its 485th birthday, which is certainly a ripe old age indeed. Obviously, none of us have been around for more than a fraction of these four-plus centuries of history. However, some of us have been living in the Big Durian just a little longer than others and have gotten to know this extraordinary city a little better. They are true Jakartans, if you will, and a true Jakartan…

1

… will always have plenty of change in their pockets In a throbbing metropolis like Jakarta, time is money, and having the correct amount of rupiah close at hand should save you a fair few minutes, not to mention bother, especially when you’re on the road. A seasoned Jakartan therefore always travels prepared with a bundle of Rp. 1000 notes to dispense to those ubiquitous parking attendants, not to mention a handful of coins for persistent street buskers and another stack of rupiah shrapnel for the socalled “U-turn police” who make switching lanes that much easier. Having a couple of Rp. 50,000 notes nestling close to your vehicle registration card for that unexpected police check is also not uncommon among

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… knows the art of catching taxis, buses, trains or even ojek (motorcycle taxis) Jakarta has no shortage of public-transportation options to offer its daily commuters,

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veteran motorists, not that we’re advocating bribery of course. No, no, no.

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… has a black belt in Close Quarters Driving While a true Jakartan is resigned to his fate of being endlessly stuck in traffic, he also knows how to make the most of what little manoeuvring space the streets of Jakarta have on offer. In other words, a gap of ten centimetres with the vehicle next to you is more than enough room to move. It goes without saying that excellent three-dimensional situational awareness is required. The same goes for mastery in the art of quick parallel parking. If you need to move back and forth more than two times, you’re not a real Jakartan yet.

but each different mode of travel requires that one master certain skills or adopt a certain mindset. A seasoned Jakartan should have the brute force of a rugby player if he or she is looking to squeeze into a packed TransJakarta bus,

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… knows where to go for a good time, a decent meal and a stiff drink Let’s face it, life in Jakarta can be tough and so the occasional cutting-loose session is pretty much mandatory if you want to keep your stress levels under control. A decent movie perhaps or a couple of hours in an urbane pub should do the trick. Alternatively, a nice juicy steak or perhaps some traditional comfort food such as a steaming bowl of bubur ayam or mie bakso should put the smile back on your face. In fact, any person wishing to be considered an orang Jakarta tulen (bona fide Jakartan) should know where the nearest bubur ayam (chicken porridge) stall is located or should at least have several trusty entertainment/dining/pub references on hand. Actually, you’re holding one right now.

the finesse of a ballerina in order to leap onto a speeding Kopaja minibus, the balance of a tightrope walker to stay perched atop an ojek as it hurtles through the traffic at breakneck speeds, and the nerve of a Hollywood stuntman

as one squares off against the inevitable angkot (public minibus) headed the wrong direction up a one-way street.

A real Jakartan should also not raise an eyebrow at how much a cab ride across town costs nowadays.

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‌ knows what to do when it floods Each year, with the onset of the rainy season, Jakarta’s sizable network of canals turns from small, trickling streams into gushing rivers that threaten to inundate the city. More often than not they do just that, but long-time residents know how to cope (to an extent at any rate). What might seem surprising though, especially to cynical outsiders, is the fact that when floods hit town, card-carrying Jakartans are quick to band together and help pull each other out of the drink. Such solidarity could be seen back in 2002, when terrible floods saw dozens killed and hundreds of emergency relief posts erected across the capital.

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… is used to being stuck in traffic

It’s a massive understatement to say that macet (traffic jams) are pretty much the order of the day in Jakarta. If you’re looking to retain your sanity, you must either learn to enjoy waking up extra early and going home extra late to avoid the worst of the jams, or you must simply get used to being stuck in purgatorial gridlocks for perhaps hours on end. Amusing yourself by reading billboards and roadside posters may be your only distraction as you grind your way towards your final destination.

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… doesn’t mind ending up in even worse traffic at weekends and during national holidays Everybody in Jakarta complains incessantly and bitterly about the traffic situation and this is, of course, a completely understandable

state of affairs. Somewhat harder to comprehend though is the reason why many Jakartans seem to actively seek out even worse traffic jams during weekends and public holidays. For years now, Jakartans have had a chance to work on their gridlock patience and stopping-on-steep-incline

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… is prepared to do – or knows how to avoid – household chores during the Lebaran holiday The annual exodus of people leaving Jakarta for the holiday that comes at the end of the holy month of Ramadan includes most – if not all – of the city’s domestic helpers and staff, leaving their hapless employers to fend for themselves for all of a single week. Many simply can’t face the horrors of cooking, washing and emptying kitty’s litter box themselves and thus decamp to the nearest available fullystaffed hotel. Seasoned Jakartans, on the other hand, prepare themselves for the holidays with supplies of frozen, precooked meals and an effective use of child labour (doing the laundry and helping around in the kitchen can actually be made fun for kids), safe in the knowledge that they will soon be inundated by holiday gifts of ketupat, opor ayam and various types of biscuits.

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… is heat resistant One of the first things about Jakarta that newcomers tend to notice is the oppressive heat.

Similarly, one of the first things about Jakartans that newcomers tend to be surprised about is how they are able to walk the streets – even during the heat of noon – in three-piece suits, heavy knitted shawls and woollen sweaters. This is perhaps the most basic hallmark of a no-nonsense, genuine, dyed-in-the-wool (ho, ho) Jakartan. How this feat of heat acclimatisation is accomplished is not well understood by medical science alas. A scientific study is perhaps in order.

skills as they spend hours weaving up to the Puncak area of West Java, which really isn’t that far away as the crow flies.

More recently, Puncak has been joined by Bandung as a popular migration route, a hill city which offers visitors the opportunity to snap up pairs of cheap jeans from ubiquitous

factory outlets and to snatch a few breaths of fresh air (that is alas increasingly tainted by the exhaust fumes of a thousand cars) up in Lembang. Still, even-more-genuine Jakartans know that weekends and holidays offer a great time to enjoy a relatively peaceful and gridlock-free Jakarta.

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… is darn proud to be a Jakartan Jakarta is not an easy place to live in, what with the traffic, the heat, the escalating crime, the regular demonstrations and, of course, the annual deluge and the five-yearly mega-floods. And if all that doesn’t sound challenging enough, making a living in Jakarta is not always an easy proposition. Any real Jakartan worth his salt though is nevertheless proud to be a part of this complex capital. Perhaps the source of this pride comes from being able to take on everything that the city is able to throw at you every day and still come out on top. More likely though, this pride in the nation’s capital comes from being a part of a city that is both fast-paced and hectic, and yet which is never lacking in subtleties. Jakarta is a city that traverses the cutting edge but which also has a human face. It is a truly challenging place and yet brims with boundless possibilities. Good luck out there folks!

June 2012

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Record [ INTERVIEW ]

Playing a game of thrones It’s all a game of chance to Nikolaj Coster-Waldau, especially when it comes to television

by Ian SpellinG

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© 20 1 2 The New York Times

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he Danish actor has been in one show that barely lasted a season, another that never passed the pilot stage and a third that has exceeded all expectations and blossomed into a worldwide pop-culture phenomenon. In order, they are ‘’New Amsterdam’’ (2008), ‘’Virtuality’’ (2009) and the current ‘’Game of Thrones.’’ ‘’There is definitely some mystery to all of this,’’ CosterWaldau says. ‘’I had a fantastic time with ‘New Amsterdam.’

We had some problems with the story and we’d just started to solve them, but there was a writer’s strike that year and so our season was very short. Then we got cancelled. I thought ‘Virtuality’ was a great story. I was very surprised when that wasn’t picked up, but clearly I haven’t got a clue. ‘’Now, with ‘Game of Thrones,’ I knew people loved the (George RR Martin) novels and I knew the scripts were strong, that (executive producers) Dan Weiss and David Benioff are fantastic writers, but what I didn’t expect and what I was really impressed by, when I saw the finished show, was how it looked, the whole look of it,’’ he continues. ‘’When you shoot a show, you just see bits and pieces of it.

I had no idea they’d be able to get all these worlds to have their own feel, their own characteristics, but also fit together as part of the Seven Kingdoms. ‘’I also figured we’d attract people who knew the books,’’ Coster-Waldau says, ‘’but I had no idea that so many people who didn’t know the novels would get into it, because it’s not easy. It’s a very complicated show. You really can’t miss an episode. You also have to dedicate yourself to it. Fortunately, that’s exactly what people are doing.’’

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Record Speaking by telephone from a hotel room in northern Italy, where he’s vacationing with his family, Coster-Waldau isn’t kidding when he describes ‘’Game of Thrones’’ as ‘’complicated’’. The story unfolds across the Seven Kingdoms of Westeros and follows several ruling families and more than a dozen major characters. Coster-Waldau plays Jaime Lannister of the House Lannister. Jaime loves his twin sister, Queen Cersei (Lena Headey), and their teen-age, illegitimate son Joffrey (Jack Gleeson) is now the king, albeit a sadistic ruler who last season beheaded the House Stark’s honourable patriarch, Eddard (Sean Bean). When last seen, Jaime had been captured and imprisoned by the revenge-minded Robb Stark (Richard Madden).

That story thread – among many others, some familiar and several brandnew – has been explored in detail ever since ‘’Game of Thrones’’ returned to HBO for its sophomore season on April 1. ‘’I am fascinated by Jaime,’’ CosterWaldau says. ‘’In the last scene of Episode 1, he was having sex with Cersei – his sister, his twin sister – and he pushes Bran Stark (Isaac HempsteadWright) out the window.

He tried to kill this little, innocent boy, and then he says, ‘The things I do for love.’

That was very, very dark and surprising, and it made me say, ‘What the hell was that all about?’ That ignited something, and it’s just carried on. ‘’I think he’s somehow human, that we can all recognise ourselves in him,’’ the actor says. ‘’We’ve all loved someone we shouldn’t have loved.

We’ve all acted in a spur of passion, and maybe not in ways we should have. There are so many other things, too. He’s threedimensional, as are all the characters.’’

Sounds terrific, but what about Season 2? ‘’I can’t say a lot,’’ Coster-Waldau says apologetically. ‘’I can only give you hints, because they’ll kill you. ‘’I did just see the first two episodes,’’ he says, ‘’and I was blown away. Last

Last year you had the sense that we could only surprise in a positive way, because it was such a big gamble, the whole show, for HBO. Now, this season, because it’s a success, we have to live up to last season.

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year you had the sense that we could only surprise in a positive way, because it was such a big gamble, the whole show, for HBO. Now, this season, because it’s a success, we have to live up to last season. ‘’A whole bunch of us from the cast saw it together in London,’’ Coster-Waldau continues, ‘’and there was excitement

there. It’s better than what I saw last year.

It gets deeper into the world. The world is expanded. You meet new characters and dig in deeper with the characters you already know.’’

Beyond ‘’Game of Thrones,’’ CosterWaldau has two other projects in the works. He recently wrapped ‘’Mama,’’ a

‘’ghost story with a twist’’ in which he stars with Jessica Chastain, and has started production on ‘’Oblivion’’, a sci-fi adventure with Tom Cruise and Morgan Freeman.

Fantasy, check. Horror, check. Sci-fi, check. ‘’I’m doing a lot of these kinds of things, it’s true,’’ he says. ‘’It’s not something I look for. It’s not like, ‘I have to do sci-fi.’ I loved

‘New Amsterdam’ because I love history and it was such a great idea, to use the history of New York City in the storytelling.

Lasse Halstrom was attached to direct ‘Virtuality,’ which was cool, plus great sci-fi always makes you think about your own existence, and ‘Virtuality’ did that for me. ‘’‘Game of Thrones’ also has a great

script,’’ Coster-Waldau says. ‘’Now, with the Tom Cruise film, it’s such a tremendous idea for a story. I can’t say a word about it, but the script is amazing. ‘’So, no, I don’t look to do sci-fi or horror or fantasy, but I’ve found these stories to be great and I have been lucky enough to get involved with them.’’

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50 things we can do to turn Jakarta into the best city on the planet From building our own version of Disneyland to abolishing the alcohol tax and electing a handsome governor, we’ve come up with a few plans that could be implemented to transform our beloved capital into the greatest city on Earth

BY Simon Pitchforth + Deisha Tamar + Yohanes Sandy + Unggul Hermanto Illustration Tommy Chandra

1 Demolish ten per cent of buildings When the word Jakarta marches with ill-advised confidence across your conscious mind, the first images conjured up are more likely to be private shopping malls, purgatorial traffic snarl ups and friendly neighbourhood slums than they are green spaces. The city’s 20102030 spatial master plan is aiming to propel the city back to something approaching 1965’s total green area of 35 per cent. Well, we’ll believe it when we see it. In the meantime, let’s send in the wrecking balls!

2 Teach drivers to drive There have been some horrific crashes in the capital in recent months. Just maybe though, the fact that the only test the city’s hordes of drivers usually have to take in order to obtain a license is to try and identify a five-foothigh letter “A” during a tensecond eye examination has been a factor in some of these deadly prangs.

3 Fix the pavements Strolling down the city’s streets is usually more akin to tackling an army assault course than it is to the considerably more pleasant pedestrian experiences of other cities. We’re not expecting the antiseptic sting of Singapore’s sidewalks to magically materialise here, but a little attention given to those city residents who are fans of Shanks’ pony may go a long way to improving the Indonesian capital.

4 Organise warungs in designated areas We all enjoy a good warung chow down every now and again, but these ubiquitous food stalls do tend to block the pavements and relegate pedestrians to the gutters, where they have to fend off a seemingly infinite flow of motorcycles. Organising warungs into off-street alfresco food-court areas would help here and indeed most street chefs would prefer to be somewhere safer. Alas, the city administration currently seems more intent on levying a tax on warung owners. Hmm…

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5 MRT It’s an oftrepeated fact that Jakarta is the largest city in the world not to have its own MRT rail system.

Even Bangkok has its very own Skytrain. Well, miracles will never cease, as construction is just about to start on the capital’s first 15.7-kilometrelong stretch of MRT, which will run from South Jakarta all the way up to Hotel Indonesia.

The line is apparently due for completion by 2016, although don’t hold your collective breath on this one folks.

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CoverStory 6 Reduce the number of motorcycles on the streets There may be a number of elevated roads currently under construction around the capital, but motorcycle sales are currently surging, despite the threat of the removal of fuel subsidies, and the city’s traffic thus looks unlikely to ease significantly.

There are apparently an eye-watering six million motorcycles in the Greater Jakarta area, all swarming around the streets like four-stroke mosquitoes and public transportation is surely the only answer to this two-wheeled insanity.

7 Give Ancol’s beaches a serious facelift Jakarta can boast the lovely Pulau Seribu (Thousand Islands) but the beaches of Jakarta Bay itself, especially those up at Ancol, are a toxic mix of discarded plastic rubbish and brackish, seemingly radioactive waters. Not the best place for an ice cream and a swim in other words. A good cleanup is surely in order, although persuading the city’s residents to be a little more hygienic in their habits would also help the city’s crud-clogged estuaries and beaches.

8 Renew Kopajas, Metro Minis and other city buses If you’re unfortunate enough to be standing behind one of these ancient, filthy brutes then it can be hard to see, let alone breathe, so acrid is the black smoke that belches out.

The city is long overdue for a new fleet of buses and, while we are at it, how about paying the drivers a fixed salary as well? That way they won’t have to bomb through the streets chasing fares like Lewis Hamilton after a litre of Red Bull.

9 No more illegal parking

10 Kick the government out of the city A plan to move the Indonesian capital to the city of Palangkaraya on the island of Borneo was originally tabled by the country’s first president, Soekarno, and what with Jakarta bursting at the seams, the scheme has now been revived by the country’s current generation of politicians. Even president SBY thinks that the idea has merit and in the final analysis, I’m sure many city residents will be quite happy to be shot of corrupt politicians and their arrogant motorcades.

Another pedestrian-themed gripe coming up. 650,000 vehicles enter the metropolitan area daily and eco-friendly walkers suffer as pavements are utilised for parking, the result of parking attendants in dishevelled lightblue uniforms trying to scrape together a meagre living. Unfortunately, recent attempts by governor Fauzi Bowo to rid Kota’s streets of illegally parked vehicles seem to have fallen flat. We would advocate a redoubled effort, perhaps with heavy bulldozers or wheel clamps at the very least.

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12 Abolish the alcohol tax Studies suggest that cannabis is far less dangerous to human health than alcohol is but we don’t care. All we want is to be able to enjoy a decent drink or five without breaking the bank. If the government can subsidise the country’s gasoline consumption, then we’re sure that they can also subsidise the consumption of this precious social lubricant. Just take a good look at Hong Kong’s drinking culture!

11 Pembantufree day How about a pembantu-free day once a month? As of now, spineless families hit the panic button at Idul Fitri, a time when many maids return to their home villages for the week-long Islamic holiday. A maid-less day once a month would give the staff a little extra break and their employers a little extra time to work on their noodleboiling skills. It’s surely a win-win scenario.

13 Allow the city’s clubs to open 24/7 Any true clubber will tell you that having to leave a venue when the party is just peaking is a good enough reason to never visit a city ever again.

When Jakarta’s nightlife scene was peaking quite a few years ago now, the reason behind all the Dionysian excess was not the availability of expensive molecular cocktails (indeed the most popular club in Asia at the time sold more bottled water than it did gin and tonics) but simply the fact that the party never stopped. Turning Jakarta into a clubbing super destination would definitely be a step towards making this city into the best in the world.

14 Make sure all taxis smell nice It’s surely no secret that, in comparison with other big cities around the world, taxi fares in Jakarta are dirt cheap.

However, it’s also common knowledge that jumping into a taxi in Jakarta can be like risking a date with someone you’ve met online. On a good day, you’ll get a polite driver who knows the streets of Jakarta like he knows the back of his hairy hand, but on a bad day, you’ll climb in a smelly taxi whose driver, you suspect, moonlights as a serial killer. There can be few things in life worse than being stuck in an eye-wateringly stinky taxi for hours on end. We’d humbly suggest that it should be compulsory for all taxis to

smell clean and nice. Such a goal is surely not reaching for the stars.

15 Taxis with mini bars After making all of Jakarta’s taxis smell fragrant, the next step could be installing a neat mini-bar inside them all. Your iPad and smartphone might have made being stuck in traffic for days on end a little more bearable, but imagine being able to enjoy a perfect dry-gin martini from the safety of a cab while you watch motorcycles crashing into each other under an angry tropical shower. Or imagine drinking a delicious glass of Marlborough pinot noir while video calling a friend in another taxi who’s supping on a crisp sauvignon blanc.

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CoverStory 16 Olympic-standard sporting facilities In Singapore, almost everyone seems to be in training for a marathon or a triathlon and almost everyone seems to be a member of a sports club. Yes, Indonesia has produced many great athletes over the years, arguably more than Singapore ever has, but have you seen the condition of the athlete’s housing complex in Senayan recently?

And sport is not just for professional athletes of course, it should be for everyone. Besides, when we finally have some decent, world-class, state-of-the-art sporting facilities, we can dream of hosting the Olympics in Jakarta, or even the World Cup!

17 Create an international literary festival A big music festival? We’re covered. A big film festival? Err… well we have at least made attempts although things haven’t been going so well on this score in recent years. Our city will never gain its intellectual credentials though unless we can boast our own world-class international literary festival. How proud would you be of Jakarta if you could witness a debate between Jonathan Franzen, who despises Facebook and Twitter, and some of the millions of faithful Indonesian users who enjoy these social media sites? What wouldn’t you give to be able to attend a book launch-cumsigning-cumreading by Ian McEwan?

18 Art-house cinema scene

Despite its obvious plot holes, we honestly enjoyed watching “The Avengers” a lot and we reckon that we’ll definitely have as much fun watching Andrew Garfield hanging off ceilings as Spider-Man. However, we also yearn for films that don’t just offer us a brief sugar rush of shallow entertainment but that can also challenge us at a deeper intellectual level and reflect current social and political mores. It’s time that we film enthusiasts who like our celluloid with a bit of bite got our nutrition too. And Jakarta would be a much better city for it.

19 Force all police officers to get into shape We should stress here that this isn’t down to any cop-porn fetish on our part. No, we have never even watched such outrageous videos. What type of people do you think we are? We want our policemen and women to look good because we think that pudgy police officers in ill-fitting uniforms are a bit of an eyesore. Perhaps at an unconscious level it’s also much easier for an impatient crowd of cars, motorcycles and buses to follow instructions if they’re coming from a good-looking traffic cop. All of us at JJK would certainly be more than happy to take orders from a hunky police officer with a nice smile.

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20 A big theatre scene Jakartans should have seen the excitement generated in Singapore, Hong Kong and China when Kevin Spacey and his The Bridge Project rolled up in town, or when the Sam Mendes-directed production of “Richard III” played to packed houses. I’m sorry if you’re one of Lady Gaga’s little Indonesian monsters, but thou art no comparison.

Imagine a play being staged here starring Sir Ian Mckellen, or picture going to see Andrew Garfield in “The Amazing Spider-Man” on a Friday evening, or watching him share the stage with Philip Seymour Hoffman in a revival of Arthur Miller’s “Death of a Salesman”.

Now, what name should we give to Jakarta’s very own Broadway?

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CoverStory 21 Clean the capital’s rivers

A long, long time ago, during the colonial era, Jakarta’s rivers were put to good use and were an important part of city life. Now, practically no one cares about the capital’s filthy waterways. Imagine clean rivers all over Jakarta filled with commuter and tourist boats, like those found in Venice, or consider New York’s water taxis.

23 Outdoor shops and restaurants As Jakartans, we have undoubtedly become too accustomed to the mall life. Malls have mushroomed in every corner of town, but it would surely be nice to have shops or restaurants that weren’t housed inside huge consumerist aircraft hangars for a change. Take the example of the impressive Ayala Triangle Park in Manila in the Philippines.

This popular spot features several

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restaurants that face a huge, open park where people can bring their families and pets on a sunny Sunday afternoon.

24 Upgrade the city’s museums We would do well to take our cue from Singapore, with its numerous highquality museums, such as the ArtScience Museum in Marina Bay Sands. Let’s be honest, most of Jakarta’s museums are in quite a sad state, even iconic places like the museum up at Taman

22 Helicopter and hot-airballoon taxis Tired of Jakarta’s endless traffic jams? It’s surely time for someone to go into the helicopter or hot-air-balloon taxi business.

Of course, there is already a helicopter taxi service in Jakarta, but this is only available to those with incredibly deep pockets. More people should be able to avail themselves of this type of service though.

Imagine wooing your partner in a hot air balloon as you enjoy amazing city views from the top of the world.

Fatahillah, while looking good from the outside, are quite horrendous inside. A museum should be a place at which people want to spend time and have fun, while also hopefully inspiring them to learn something.

25 Public caning for corruptors We usually don’t condone violence, but to rid the country of this vile disease, an extreme measure needs to be taken. Need we say more?

26 Open some libraries

It should be admitted openly that Jakarta is in dire need of some decent public libraries.

Sure, there are plenty of bookstores out there these days but good books can be costly in this country.

Egypt’s amazing governmentrun Bibliotheca Alexandrina could be a model to aim for.

27 Build a Disneyland

After all these years, Dufan (the Dunia Fantasi amusement park) has undoubtedly lost some of its lustre.

A Disneyland would answer the need of Jakartans for some top-flight entertainment and adrenaline.

Mickey and Minnie Mouse dancing next to an ondel-ondel?

Why not?!

29 Rejuvenate the Old Town

28 Legalise gambling Even if they don’t legalise gambling everywhere, then the city administration could at least designate a special gambling zone with legal casinos where people of age can gamble away their pennies. Even a majority Muslim country like Malaysia has the Genting Highlands, an area which is filled with fully licensed casinos.

The Old Batavia area (Kota) could do with a serious facelift. The Old Town used to be the jewel in the Jakarta crown back in the colonial era. These days, the Kota area of town is a pretty wretched place that is studded with abandoned and dilapidated buildings. If the government took serious action to preserve the area, rather than adding more and more skyscrapers in places where tall buildings shouldn’t be erected anyway, then the city would surely be a much-improved place.

30 Good-looking governor Having a good-looking governor won’t, of course, instantly turn Jakarta into the best city on the planet. Naturally we still need a governor who possesses the skills to fix the city. But having a governor who is easy on the eye will help to boost the city’s popularity and image. The hot and hunky governor of Maryland in the US has helped to elevate the city’s popularity and also the silver fox from Texas, Rick Perry, has become the talk of the town due to his handsomeness.

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31 Cleaner and more organised traditional markets According to a recent study by the Itqoni Group, who are developers of traditional markets, Jakarta’s traditional markets will have turned into museums within 12 years, as modern supermarkets and mini-marts become ubiquitous. Traditional markets are cheap though and can even be fun. The famous Jungang Market in the Korean capital of Seoul, for example, is both wellorganised and hugely popular

32 Affordable apartments It’s a bitter irony that while apartment developments are booming in Jakarta, most city residents can’t actually afford them due to their hefty price tags.

Jakarta has a huge and growing population and is getting more crowded by the minute, and cheap apartments could help accommodate those who simply can’t resist the lure of the big city.

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33 Drinkable tap water Simple really, we want clean, drinkable tap water so that there’s no longer any need to buy endless bottles of Aqua. Eating in restaurants or slaking one’s thirst when there are no minimarts nearby would thus be improved experiences.

35 Yearround sales Let’s really push the shopaholic boat out with some all-yearround sales. Many now choose to enjoy shopping trips to Singapore or Malaysia, believing prices to be a lot cheaper than they are in Jakarta, even with flights and hotels added in. Well it’s time to compete in the discount arena.

34 Better access for the disabled Jakarta is alas a harsh city for those with disabilities. The city’s centrepiece TransJakarta busway project, for example, is basically inaccessible to wheelchairs. Sure, these days a number of malls and office blocks feature special parking and restrooms for the disabled but so much more could be done.

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CoverStory 36 Real 4G connectivity

Admittedly there are parts of the tech savvy UK that don’t even have 4G connectivity yet, but becoming 4G ready would surely make Jakarta one of the coolest cities in the world. Rumour has it some of the capital’s mobile providers are ready to roll out 4G services, however there are still signal stability issues to resolve. Watch this space.

37 Encourage street art Don’t you just love the street art that adorns the abandoned concrete monorail pillars in the Senayan area or in the tunnel down near Jl. Blora?

Instead of stigmatising street art as vandalism, it should be acknowledged that street-art communities can make a positive contribution to the beautification of Jakarta’s boring monotone expanses of concrete. The remaining graffiti on the demolished Berlin wall can be found displayed in Newseum in Washington DC for example.

Inspirational!

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38 Construct the tallest building on the planet

39 Limit the number of private cars on the road

Back in 1995, the late President Soeharto challenged the government to build the tallest tower on earth. It was to have been called Menara Jakarta and to have been located in Bandar Baru in Kemayoran.

According to the plans, the tower was to have been completed by 2012, but the 1998 financial crisis permanently halted construction on the project.

It’s time to reboot this push for the skies though and put Jakarta on the map as a city that owns a truly worldclass landmark.

There are nearly four million private cars in Jakarta these days and these obviously make a huge contribution to congestion and pollution.

The city government should adopt the system used by the Singaporean government, where people are ordered to buy a permit from the government first before they purchase a car. And these permits don’t come cheap, which would limit the growth in the number of private cars in Jakarta. As a temporary

pollution solution, the government can simply issue a regulation that orders its citizens to purchase only more eco-friendly cars. It’s 2012 after all and we should be concerned about global warming.

40 A Jakartan version of the Mardi Gras This city could really do with an annual festival for its citizens. Solo and Jember already have their own carnivals, so it’s high time that Jakarta organised its own fabulously flamboyant event. A carnival would attract visitors and also give Jakartans a chance to be creative. We have the human resources and we have some suitably wide main streets for the parades. What are you waiting for people?

41 Upgrade Sentul Circuit

Have you heard of any major races being held at Sentul Circuit during the last decade? No? Well that makes two of us. The city government should be paying a little more attention to this potentially great circuit in our view, as Sentul currently languishes way below international standards. A Sentul revamp is surely on the cards and the ultimate aim should be a Formula 1 Grand Prix. Singapore has its night race, Abu Dhabi stages a twilight race, so how about a dawn race in Jakarta?

42 Easier access to the Thousand Islands

The Thousand Islands (Pulau Seribu) are a popular Jakarta getaway, but transportation from mainland Jakarta out to the islands is woefully inadequate. The government should be able to put together a proper, regular, fast-boat service to the islands.

Reaching the Thousand Islands from Jakarta should be as easy as it is to get from Hong Kong to Macau. The capital’s residents really need a quick hassle-free escape from the stresses of city life and the answer lies right on our doorstep.

43 Revamp Monas Indonesia’s National Monument (Monas) is surely the city’s most iconic landmark. But slowly but surely Jakartans seem to care less and less for the brainchild of Indonesia’s first president, Soekarno.

Built between 1961 and 1975, Monas itself has never undergone a serious renovation, despite the attention given to its grounds. This has led some to question its safety, especially that of the elevator that takes visitors up to the top viewing deck. A serious

revamping should see Monas’ reputation restored.

44 Create a film festival better than JiFFEST The Jakarta International Film Festival, widely known as JiFFEST, has been slowly dying of late. Lacking financial support from both private companies and the government, the committee has alas had to cancel this once superb festival for the last three years running.

It’s time for the government and big business to team up to reboot the festival and make it the Asian equivalent

of Toronto or Cannes, thus putting Jakarta on the international celluloid map.

45 Car-free week Car-free day has now become a regular, mainstream event in Jakarta, so why don’t we push the envelope even further and organise a carfree week? Jakarta’s streets would be much clearer if we could persuade people to leave their cars at home and head to work by TransJakarta, and car-free week could apply to all main arteries with their own busway lanes. Desperate problems require desperate remedies.

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CoverStory 46 Super-fast internet connection Internet connection speeds here at JJK Towers are thankfully super fast, although many Jakartans still struggle with sluggish web browsing.

Nowadays, nearly all businesses depend on the internet, so this is ultimately a serious economic problem.

Super-fast internet connectivity of the type found in South Korea or Singapore would offer a big boost to Jakarta life.

It’s a technological world after all.

49 Finish projects How many unfinished projects can be seen across the city? There are a lot, let’s be honest. The government should invite investors to get involved in these unfinished projects before some of them become haunted and are taken over by malevolent spirits! Moreover, those abandoned-monorail pillars sure make the city look ugly.

50 Demolish the entire city and start again!

This would be a final solution to the multidimensional problems that continue to bedevil the city. Jakarta has grown completely unchecked and without reference at all to any kind of organised master plan, compromising liveability massively in the process. It’s time to get radical folks.

48 Ban moustaches The current governor and his pretty unsuccessful programmes have disappointed a lot of Jakartans and he initially tried to sell himself on the back of his bushy moustache. Unless you are as handsome as Tom Selleck, please leave your upper lip bald as a political as well as a grooming statement.

47 More rooftop bars Jakarta is home to numerous skyscrapers but sadly only a few companies have had the wherewithal to turn their rooftops into pleasure zones.

More rooftop bars would make a nice addition to the capital’s lifestyle scene and would add dynamism to the city.

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hellobali chef wars 2012 Vote for your faVourite chef now at

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Taste

bordeaux wines / RESTAURANT REVIEWS / TOP TABLES + BARS

KITCHEN UPDATES

the asparagus affair From mid-April to mid-June, the InterContinental Jakarta MidPlaza is offering a European White Asparagus Affair promotion at its award-winning Scusa restaurant. French white asparagus will be transformed into appetisers such as boiled white asparagus and creamy white asparagus soup, as well as main courses of white asparagus risotto and beef tenderloin with grilled white asparagus. Prices range from Rp. 95,000++ up to Rp. 395,000++ and there’ll also be complimentary wine with every white asparagus main course.

InterContinental Jakarta MidPlaza,

CORB IS

2nd floor, T: 021 251 4188

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TasteKitchenUpdates millenium hotel

pinoy vaganza Millenium Hotel Sirih Jakarta will be hosting a very rare food promotion called Flavours of the Philippines. Held at Café Sirih, this food vaganze will be focusing on Filipino fare such as atsarang papaya, bistik tagalog, chicken adobo and many more. The fiesta will run from June 5-17 and the dishes will be specially prepared by two guest chefs, Rogelio Armas and Karl Dorado Fortazela, from The Heritage Hotel Manila.

The all-you-can-eat promo can be purchased for Rp.165.000++ per person inclusive of free flow iced lemon tea. If you come in a group of six adults, one of your friends can eat for free. This food event is brought to you by Millennium Hotel Sirih Jakarta with a full support from Filipino Women for Art, Barong Batik and the Philippines Embassy.

T: 021 230 3636

burger king

burger bargains To celebrate its fifth anniversary in Indonesia, Burger King is cutting the prices of five of its bestselling burgers, namely the Whopper, Whopper Jr, BK Singles Mushroom Swiss, BK Singles BBQ Bacon Cheese and the Cheeseburger. These top five burgers were selected through a poll on Burger King’s Facebook page. bagel bagel

a bigger bagel Bagel Bagel, Kemang’s famous bagel house, has just moved to a new, bigger location. You’ll find the new outlet not too far from the previous store, and this chic diner can accommodate more dine-in customers than the old joint. There’s also plenty of parking space to take advantage of.

Starting from May 1, Bagel Bagel will be offering a new variety of bagel dedicated to the dieters among you. The new, thin bagel is made from whole wheat and is both healthy and yummy!

T: 021 781 8769 / 3625 2345

downtown bistro

going downtown The city’s culinary map has a new landmark to check out. Named Downtown Bistro, the eatery can be found tucked in on the ground floor of The Landmark Centre and offers some pleasant, 1950s-style wooden decor. A selection of classic jazz numbers also colours the atmosphere. Food wise, a wide selection of American delicacies, ranging from sandwiches to burgers, as well as Asian and Italian fare, is on hand to choose from.

T: 021 5296 0064

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jw marriot hotel

oodles of noodles Noodles have been a staple food in many parts of the world for at least 2,000 years and this month, from June 8 to June 17 to be precise, Sailendra at JW Marriott Hotel Jakarta is hosting a special Noodles from Around the World food promotion. During the food promo, diners can enjoy a huge variety of noodle dishes from China and Vietnam to Korea, Singapore and more. Pho, chap chae, laksa, you name it, if it’s made from noodles then you’ll be able to slurp it down at the Marriott.

T: 021 5798 8889

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TasteKitchenUpdates xi men ding

tasty taiwan

HOTEL INDONESIA KEMPINSKI

LA MIAN ROSE

Signatures Restaurant at Hotel Indonesia Kempinski will be heading east this month. From June 15 until July 1, a special la mian food promo will be offering various delicious Chinese noodle creations. La mian itself is a type of handmade or hand-pulled noodle and is a Chinese staple. Savour the delicacies of dan dan noodles, chicken-soup noodles and cheng huang miao noodles, exclusively prepared by executive Chinese Chef, Foong Wai Loong.

The people behind the eversuccessful pancake joint, Pancious, have just opened a new restaurant that focuses on Taiwanese food. Called Xi Men Ding, this chic new eatery can be found up on the fourth floor of Senayan City Mall and promises to serve the best Taiwanese dishes in town. The chef, who originally hails from Taiwan, will be whipping up authentic Taiwanese cuisine such as san bei chicken and lion head meatballs.

T: 021 7278 1386

ritz carlton

jakarta jamboree

T: 021 2358 3898 score!

RIB TICKLER Score! Jakarta has something for the carnivores at its Beef Ribs Sensation promotion, which is running from March 26 until June 26. Choose between mouth-watering BBQ beef short ribs, a 350g US short-rib basted with BBQ sauce, or the tender BBQ beef ribs, a 400g portion of beef ribs served with BBQ sauce. Both dishes come served with mashed potato, green salad and buttered corn and clock in at Rp. 179,000 each. For every purchase of ribs, you’ll also have the chance to win an AirAsia plane ticket for the airline’s Jakarta-Singapore route.

T: 021 7592 0279 EXCELSO

EXCELLENT EXCELSO Excelso never stops innovating.

After launching its new dory sandwich a few months back, they’ve now come up with a new black pepper chicken sandwich for hungry patrons to get stuck in to. If you fancy a heavier bite, then the new black pepper chicken pasta should fill a hole. As one of the biggest cafe chains in town, with 26 outlets in locations from campuses to malls, these are indeed welcome additions.

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huize van wely

sweet sunday brunch Huize van Wely at the lavish The Papilion, Kemang has just launched a quality Sunday brunch to die for. Kicking off at 10am and running until 3pm, the Sunday brunch features tantalising gourmet delights aplenty. The semi-buffet brunch includes all-time local favourites, scrumptious Western fare and divine homemade desserts. There’s also a special Japanese selection created by corporate executive chef, Takahashi Hideaki. The brunch is priced at Rp. 350,000++ per person and Rp. 165,000++ for children from between three and ten years old.

To celebrate the 485th anniversary of this fair city, Asia Restaurant down at The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta will once again be transforming itself into an old-Jakarta style eatery. From June 20-27, diners will be able to enjoy a buffet of local delicacies such as soto Betawi, bakwan Malang, nasi goreng gila and more. Beside traditional Betawi dishes, there’ll also be a Dutch-influenced food stall offering Dutch-style macaroni, braised steak and plenty more besides. Orkes Samrah (a traditional orchestra) will also be on hand to entertain guests. Prices for the feast start at Rp. 258,000++ per person.

T: 021 2551 8882

T: 021 719 1975

pasar festival

the new passer koeningan Pasar Festival, which has now been renamed Plaza Festival, has revamped its dining into something a cut above the standard food-court experience. Named Passer Koeningan, the new food court looks simply gorgeous and boasts a 1940s Indonesian feel. Various counters offer a wide selection of mainly Indonesian fare, and more kiosks are slated to open in the near future.

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TasteRestaurantReviews

Double Bay

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RATING

!!!!!

CUISINE American SPEND Rp. 250,000 for two

Jl. HOS Cokroaminoto No. 79, T: 021 390 7623

The starfruit foie gras and black-truffle shoestring fries grabbed us by the lapels as we flipped through the appetiser section of the menu. But we weren’t feeling adventurous enough to sample either. Instead, we opted for a humble breakfast burrito.

We have long yearned for fresh Mexican dishes to hit the city and our fingers were crossed. What arrived at our table was certainly not bad, as it contained a decent amount of chilli con carne and scrambled egg – the chilli con carne failed to shine through when mixed with the other elements in the dish and was somewhat lacking in vitality.

Next, we opted for the floor staff’s recommendation and got our gums

around a plate of Tijuana salmon.

The salmon came served on top of a tomato, capsicum and corn and black-bean salsa, and the fish had been well cooked and drizzled with a tasty coriander pesto. That said, the whole dish would probably have benefitted from the contrasting element of some white-fleshed fish. Don’t get us wrong though, the salmon had been cooked perfectly but we still thought that a milder white fish would have provided a nice contrast to the vibrant seasoning.

We also paid special attention to the dessert section of the menu, as Double Bay have decided to jump on the plush red-velvet bandwagon and offer items that may look and sound slightly tacky but which are satisfying nonetheless. The red-velvet pancake came topped with cream cheese, maple syrup and candied walnuts. Such a combination will never let you down! –SEBASTIAN SUBAKTI

Kiki Djaffar

T

he leopard skin and red velvet décor certainly doesn’t make Double Bay seem like a casual diner. Occupying the old space left by Pizza Marzano in the building next to Taman Menteng, this restaurant is looking to provide a different kind of dining experience.

The restaurant’s intended American-style theme didn’t really come off however, as we felt like we were sitting in some cocktail lounge as opposed to an actual eatery.

Indeed Double Bay’s afterhours promotions, acoustic sessions and weekend DJ sets only confirmed that this joint is looking to cater more to the night owls among us.

Conceptual confusion aside though, the dishes on offer here are indeed reminiscent of a classic American-diner menu.

American breakfasts such as pancakes, toasts and different styles of egg dishes are available from as early as 8am and can be enjoyed all day.

Seroeni

Kiki Djaffar

I

more than just the usual ndonesians don’t just head Chinese-Malay peranakan down to their local mall to shop dishes that could be nowadays. Back in the ’80s and browsed on the menu. ’90s people were mesmerised by Authenticity perhaps? malls and window shopped for The restaurant setting stuff you couldn’t get at the pasar or was simple but neat, from mom and pop shops. Back then making me feeling like I the mall was the place to go to get a was dining on the terrace dose of retail therapy. of an old Chinese or Betawi While this is still partly true today, house. The it is interesting that food lighting was bright enough has become the heartbeat for even my old eyes to of so many malls and in Plaza Senayan, read in, and the dining area some, restaurants and 3rd floor, was clean. Good. café have even come to T: 021 572 5187 The Seroeni menu dominate. Citos (Cilandak offers a wide array of Town Square) in South home-cooking-style food, Jakarta, for example, is from appetisers and soups to mains primarily about stuffing your face. and desserts. The restaurant is also But what is the main food concept pushing its gourmet TWG tea and on offer in most malls? I’ve noticed snow ice (shaved ice cream with that every mall has its own fooddifferent toppings, which comes court section and counters which are served with a crunchy wafer, not bad largely dominated by reliable, familiar, at all in fact). boring fast-food And what of the brands and prices? Well they standard local are surprisingly fare. They are reasonable, great places if you perhaps cheaper want something than even those quick, predictable and affordable, however few of these places really shine.

Away from the crowded food courts, the free-standing restaurants of the modern mall have upped the ante and now offer complete dining experiences, something that they hope will rise above the food-court frenzy. That overused word “lifestyle” has now become the order of the day.

When you walk around a Jakarta mall these days, you can easily find such self-contained restaurants and many of them really shine and offer good food, great service and an ambiance that gives you the illusion that you’re not actually in a mall at all.

And so, when I paid a visit to Seroeni – which means chrysanthemum flower in the old Indonesian spelling system – I expected that this free-standing restaurant would offer something

RATING

!!!!!

CUISINE Peranakan SPEND Rp. 150,000 for two

found down in the average food court.

For our starter, we ordered up some asparagus-andcrabmeat soup and some hot-and-sour soup, both of which are staples here. They were just okay but nothing spectacular. For our main courses, we tried the salt-andpepper squid, the lemongrass beef, and the pocai asparagus and crab. Nothing really grabbed my attention and I finally jotted down: Not bad but not great, nothing special.

Cheap. I didn’t even make any notes about the service, as it was also pretty bog standard.

No mistakes, no complaints, no problems, I got my food, I ate it, I paid my bill, I went home.

Everything was so standard and forgettable that I can’t even remember any negative points about the restaurant, the food or the service. Can a restaurant be so bland that it actually gives one amnesia? Affordable but certainly not memorable.

Head here if you’re in Plaza Senayan and want to grab some home-cooked ChineseMalay peranakan food that’s not served in a food-court environment. I can live with that. Next! – john henry

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Saung Grenvil

E

ver since the opening of their first establishment back in April 1999, Saung Grenvil has attracted a large cult following of crab-loving Jakartans. Their premium quality produce, the main reason behind Saung Grenvil’s success, has raised the ingredients-standards bar for the city’s local seafood restaurants.

After opening a second branch in Wahid Hasyim, the guys behind Saung Grenvil have now really spoilt us South Jakartans by opening a third branch in the Blok S area, which should save us a few hours of sitting in traffic. This latest restaurant, though not the biggest of the bunch, is definitely the most comfortable of the three. The interior is neat and bright, giving it a clean feel, while the restaurant’s image has been maintained through 98

June 2012

the staff’s unchanged uniforms.

How do you order at Saung Grenvil? Well, the modus operandi is to start from their selection of male or female crabs and first choose a cooking style. The kepiting saus padang is a must, so we ordered up a portion in the blink of an eye.

We then plumped for a male crab cooked in salted egg yolk. At around Rp. 140, 000 per crab, expect to receive a full-bodied crustacean whose shell is simply crammed with succulent meat. But the salted-egg crab turned out to be one for the purists, as the salted-egg mixture only clings to the outer shell of the crab, leaving the meat devoid of all seasoning. This may seem disappointing at first glance though we soon realised that this approach allowed the main ingredient to shine through. The crabmeat itself proved

RATING

!!!!!

CUISINE Indonesian-style seafood SPEND Rp. 300,000 for two

Jl. Suryo No. 7, Blok S, T: 021 7279 5183

to be naturally sweet and fragrant as a result of it being steamed inside its own shell.

The other crustacean on our table that night almost took the spotlight away from our salted-egg crab though.

Our order of udang pacet jumbo was seasoned so well that we just had to order up another plate after we’d polished off the first pile.

Served in fours, the prawns had been butter fried and minimally seasoned with the restaurant’s signature marinating paste. The marriage of sweet prawn meat and the savoury seasoning was definitely one of the night’s highlights.

Sadly, all highs must be balanced by a low, and in this case it was the ikan baronang bakar that failed to impress. The fish had been grilled properly, but the kitchen had failed to inspect it thoroughly, as it tasted a bit old and strongly fishy.

Fortunately, the restaurant offered to take it off the bill after we lodged a complaint.

This show of good faith, coupled with the restaurant’s attentive service and satisfying dishes, managed to wipe away our fishy disappointment in an instant.

So get your cholesterol checked and head down to South Jakarta’s latest seafood paradise for some crabtastic, crustaceous fun.

–Sebastian subakti

Kiki Djaffar

TasteRestaurantReviews

Advertorial

Winners meet a winner Two winners of the 2012 Unilever Food Solutions “Chef of the Year” attend the prestigious master class in Singapore

A

fter being selected as the best chefs in the 2012 Unilever Food Solutions “Chef of the Year”, Ranov Suswanda (senior category 1st winner) and Dias Raditya Wijaya (junior category 1st winner), was given the opportunity to attend a master class hosted by one of the world’s most renowned chefs, British chef Marco Pierre White, in Singapore for two days, on 26 and 27 April 2012.

Adam Djokovic, managing director of Unilever Food Solutions Indonesia, explained, “The master class held in Singapore, presented by chef Marco Pierre White is expected to

complement the winners’ learning experience as part of the 2012 Unilever Food Solutions ‘Chef of the Year’ series, which aims to help improve the skills of the chefs.”

Chef Marco Pierre White is the youngest chef to have ever been awarded with three Michelin stars.

His great passion and dedication in the culinary world has led him to be selected as the ambassador of the Knorr brand, one of the major brands produced by Unilever. Marco Pierre, who is also known for his contributions to contemporary international cuisine, was in Singapore to conduct a series of activities, including a master class for

the winners of the 2012 Unilever Food Solutions “Chef of the Year”.

“For us chefs, being the winner of the 2012 Unilever Food Solutions ‘Chef of the Year’ is a big pride and especially for me personally. The experience we gained from competing in every stage, from the initial selection, the semi-finals and the grand finale, where we managed to win the competition, was absolutely inspiring.

On top of having the opportunity to prove my capability as a chef, I’ve also learned many new things from other participants in this competition,” said Ranov.

For more inspirations please visit our website : www.unileverfoodsolutions.co.id

June 2012

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Mei 2012

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TasteRestaurantTalk

Where dry-aged meats are grilled to perfection The setting

The food

Since its opening back in 2007, we have always liked the way that Rustique interprets elegance through its lovely interior. Its unpolished redbrick walls remind one of a home far away from the confined spaces of its mall home, and its large gilded mirrors and muted earth hues remind you that you’re eating out. The semi-open kitchen reveals chefs who appear supremely confident about the quality of their work, and the room at the back of the restaurant can be closed for small functions. In a nutshell, Rustique is classy and yet casual at the same time, and once you head inside, you can easily believe that you’re dining in a fine-looking stand-alone restaurant that’s nowhere near a mall.

This joint is one of the leading eateries in the country when it comes to our old friend the grill. On top of that, Rustique is also the first restaurant in Indonesia to introduce the dry-aged beef technique.

Preparing your beef using this system takes much longer – from a week up to as long as six months, depending on the meat. But the results are incomparable.

Rustique has other items on its menu and to be fair, they are delicious too. Although when you’re here, we’d strongly advise that you try chef Fany’s excellent meat dishes. The T-bone steak, though not dry-aged, is marinated for 48 hours, and is so good you’ll wish that you could eat the bone too. The ribeye on the bone is dry-aged for 40 days

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and the taste is simply out of this world. On top of the meat itself, the steaks here also come accompanied by small plates of mouth-watering dressings from all over the world. And if nothing from the menu tickles your fancy, ask for one of the Rustique specials, as this joint

The special Rustique is the first and currently only restaurant in Indonesia to use a Josper oven to cook its food in. This world-famous oven packs so much heat that it doesn’t require a long time to cook the meat, which means that all of the juiciness inside the meat doesn’t evaporate but instead stays there until it’s finally served up on your plate. Bon appétit.

Plaza Senayan Level P4, T: 021 5785 8148

Kiki Djaffar

Rustique Grill & Wine

often comes into possession of rare meats that are only seasonally available in Jakarta.

C’s

Kiki Djaffar

Chef Albert Liew introduces new items to relish The setting

The food

Located on level 4 of the iconic Grand Hyatt Jakarta, this joint looks pretty cultured. The spacious dining area looks and feels even roomier than it actually is, owing to the judicious use of glass walls and its high ceiling, while the entrance is decorated with a see-through wine cellar that boasts more than 3000 bottles from all over the world. And in the middle sits an open kitchen where your food is prepared in front of your eyes.

C’s recently appointed a highly experienced Chinese chef.

Albert Liew has been cooking up a storm in many a bigname kitchen across Malaysia, Singapore, China and even Indonesia, and his most recent stint was at the Hotel Majapahit in Surabaya. Now the esteemed Mr Liew is giving C’s Chinese à la carte menu a facelift.

Among the new items on the menu, the soon hock fish is a real winner. This steamed dish is served with a side order

of preserved radish that is positively bursting with flavour, making the quality fish taste even more delicious. The kingprawn milky pumpkin also trips off the taste buds nicely. Popular in Singapore, this Asian-fusion dish makes a perfect partner for Liew’s newest creation: a dish made of sautéed chicken cooked in pepper honey sauce and served with macadamia nuts. The crisply fried Cantonese noodles are also not to be missed and neither is the Yung Chow fried rice.

Grand Hyatt Jakarta, T: 021 2992 1234 www.jakarta.grand.hyatt.com

The special C’s also serves Western fare and half of its lively open kitchen is used to prepare these dishes. The restaurant is open for lunch from 12noon until 3pm and reopens again for dinner from 6pm until 11pm.

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Promotional Feature Kartika Plaza, Bali and I Wayan Suparta from Bali Safari & Marine Park. www.unilever.com

Unilever Food Solutions Chef of the Year 2012

A

fter a long selection process across four of Indonesia’s largest cities– Jakarta, Bandung, Surabaya and Bali –16 Salon Cullinaire semi-finalists and two finalists competed for the crown of Unilever Food Solutions’ Chef of the Year 2012 on April 23.

The 18 contestants were divided into two categories (senior and junior chef) and the winner will receive prize money and a rare opportunity to meet world-class chef, Marco Pierre White, in Singapore.

The competition is basically the first prestigious nationwide culinary event for professional and amateur chefs to be held in Indonesia and is being organised and presented by Unilever Food Solutions.

UFS, in organising this clash of the chefs, collaborated with Indonesia’s food-service industries, including tourism schools and chef associations. Adam Djokovic, the managing director of Unilever Food Solutions Indonesia, has stated that UFS has received some very positive feedback from contestants, and even though the semi-finals were only held in four cities,

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the participants themselves came from all over Indonesia, including from Sumatra and Kalimantan.

The final was held at the atrium of the chic Epicentrum Walk Mall and the likes of Chef Vindex Tengker, brand ambassador for UFS; Chef Gilles Marx from Amuz Gourmet Restaurant; Chef Setiyanto from The Sultan Hotel and Chef Widhi, executive chef of Unilever Food Solutions, all took on judging roles.

On the big day, the finalists were challenged to create dishes using Univelever Food Solutions products within a limited time frame. In total, 16 chefs - two each in junior and senior categories and sub-categories from each audition city - were crowned winners. Moreover, the judges also picked two winners in the Salon Cullinaire category, namely Desak Ketut Liyoni from Discovery

What is Unilever Food Solutions?

Unilever Food Solutions helps chefs all over the world to serve tasty, wholesome meals that keep guests coming back for more.

The company creates ingredients that save precious preparation time in the kitchen without compromising on flavour or flair, and consistently offers creative ideas and inspiration aimed at keeping menus both fresh and exciting. UFS’s ingredients are staples in professional kitchens in 74 countries around the world, including kitchens at Knorr, Hellman’s, Lipton and more.

UFS have been in the food industry since the 1880s and are chefs themselves, so they understand that critical balance between impressing your guests and making a profit. They’re also on the ball with regards to keeping menus and recipes fresh and exciting as times and tastes change.

UFS concerns itself with putting healthy and nutritious food on the table, however the company also cares about its environmental impact. UFS thus uses ingredients and packaging that are sustainably sourced, generate less waste and which consume less energy. All part of Unilever Food Solutions’ environmentally responsible way of doing business.

Red Tomato-Oke.indd 1

Immigrant-Oke.indd 1

5/11/12 10:16 AM

June 2012

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TasteFoodTalk

Chateau Margaux, Medoc, 104France June 2012 Bordeaux,

Gig in a glass Our resident oenophile, Yohan Handoyo, sticks his lighter in the air and goes in search of the rock stars of the wine world

GET TY IMAGES

By Yohan Handoyo

June 2012

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TasteFoodTalk Bordeaux, France Opposite page A Frenchman harvesting grapes in 1948

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from the Bordeaux region of France had assembled in Jakarta to meet their die-hard fans. However, instead of scrawling signatures on T-shirts for star-struck groupies, they were pouring out some of their best wines from 2006, underrated vintages that are able to pleasantly surprise even the most avid of wine drinkers.

The vineyard rock stars in question came from the most important and celebrated regions of Bordeaux. Only Entre-deuxMers was conspicuous by its absence at this celebration of the finer things in life.

From the Medoc on the left bank there were Ch Beychevelle and Ch Lagrange from St Julien; Ch Lafon Rochet from St Estephe; and Ch Lascombe, Ch Brane Cantenac, Ch Issan, Ch du Tertre and Ch Giscours

from Margaux. Pauillac was represented by Ch Pedesclaux, and from Haut Medoc there were Ch La Tour Carnet and Ch Cantermerle. All of these can be found listed in the famous 1855 Bordeaux Classification, which has been considered the main quality reference by wine lovers since, you guessed it, 1855. This classification hasn’t changed until today, except for once in 1973 when Ch Mouton Rothschild was elevated from second growth to the most prestigious first-growth class.

From Graves, there was Ch. Pape Clement, which is historically still related to Pope Clement V and very popular in Indonesia due to its elegant yet powerful and complex style. The St Emilion area was also represented by a single winery,

For wine lovers and connoisseurs, this was indeed the equivalent of a major rock gig.

GET TY IMAGES

O

ne humid Wednesday last April, Café Aria on Jakarta’s Jalan Sudirman suddenly became a magnet for the city’s wine lovers and connoisseurs.

The magnetic pull of the place was felt so strongly that even after traversing nerve-shredding traffic jams, nobody was frowning as they arrived at the registration table.

Indeed, the gathered throng displayed an electric anticipation of the kind normally experienced in rock concert queues.

Everybody was smiling, nobody looked tired and there seemed to be a certain kind of connection among them, although they didn’t know each other. Unlike most concerts though, different generations could be seen rubbing shoulders together here, from slick young yuppies to silverhaired gentlemen.

For wine lovers and connoisseurs, this was indeed the equivalent of a major rock gig. Sixteen world-famous chateaux

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Ch Corbin, which is listed on the St Emilion Grand Cru Classe list. From Pomerol there was Ch Rouget, and from the sweet-wineproducing areas of Sauternes and Barsac there were Ch Coutet and Ch Guiraud.

I tasted a number of these wines individually, when they were still in the barrel back in 2007, and the general impression among the majority – including myself – was far from positive. Perhaps because all of us were still too attached or too impressed with the glories of the 2005 vintages, which were considered even better than that of 2000, the legendary wine year that marked the turn of the millennium.

When I returned to these wines last April though, I had to admit that things had changed.

The 2006 wines had become delicious and well structured, especially those from Margaux and Pauillac, which now show a generous, fruity character, with sweet, velvety tannins, as well as enough acidity to support the fruit and aromas. They were now ready to seduce my soul!

Of course, each wine has its own individual charms, despite the fact that they all come from the same region. Each house has tried to interpret what Mother Nature gave them back in 2006 and each of them has come up with different personalities. To stretch the metaphor further, it was like enjoying a rock festival featuring a number of star performances.

2006 was also a damn good year for Bordeaux’s sweet wine producers. The Ch Coutet is pleasantly complex with a vibrant acidity to balance its sweetness.

In fact, it’s so balanced that I can almost drink this wine the whole night without my palate ever feeling tired.

Aline Baly, the owner of Chateau Coutet, even taught me the secret of the most exquisite pairing with her sweet wine: sushi and fresh oysters.

Both of these pairings made my knees tremble and blew my mind.

The only representive from Pomerol on hand was Ch Rouget and I had the opportunity to chat with the friendly owner,

the site featured the famous “blue clay” soil that is responsible for making a Ch Petrus a Ch Petrus.

Jean-Pierre Labruyere, a 72-year-old businessman with plenty of happy wrinkles around his eyes. He told me a story about the estate that he bought back in 1992.

Before he got involved, the estate was owned by the Mayor of Libourne and was in really poor shape. Jean-Pierre, who comes from a family that once sold bulk wine to the King of Beaujolais – George Dubeouf – felt as if this was an opportunity that he couldn’t afford to miss, because the site was actually a great one that featured the famous “blue clay” soil that is responsible for making a Ch Petrus a Ch Petrus. This blue clay gives an extraordinary opulence and complexity to a good merlot which cannot be copied, even with the most advanced wine-making technology.

With the help of Michel Rolland – the guru of Merlot and perhaps the most famous wine-making consultant in the world – Ch Rouget now makes wines which are not only delicious but which also successfully reveal the true potential of this special terroir. These wines really reflect what Pomerol should be about: complex, elegant, balanced with a touch of spiciness typical of Pomerol, and with seductive aromas, long elegant finishes and structures that make them a worthy adversary.

GET TY IMAGES

Vineyard of Saint-Emilion Bordeaux, Opposite page Grand Listrac vineyard - picking grapes, Medoc, Bordeaux

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TasteChefWars

Battle of the kitchens Two of the city’s finest chefs go head to head in our cuisine questionnaire BY deisha tamar

After spending 17 years studying and mastering cooking in the United States, chef Arnold Budiawan moved back to Jakarta in 2008. A prominent culinary artist who was once invited to several cooking shows in the US, Arnold became the executive chef at Score! in Cilandak Town Square in 2010.

Not only does he possess the soul of a cook, but he also has a passion for music. Back in the US, he would work as a chef during the day and moonlight as a DJ at night. He even grew his hair long during the grunge era. Arnold’s speciality is grilled food, although he started his cooking career as a sushi chef.

Djoko Sarwono

Since September 2011, Djoko Sarwono has served as executive chef at Vin+ in Plaza Senayan Arcadia, after many years of experience working in a prominent hotel in the Senayan area, as well as a number of other classy restaurants. Djoko claims that he has never had any specialist training in cooking and that he learnt his art from watching his mother, who ran a catering business that provided for the family. Chef Djoko, whose speciality is terrine, considers cooking an art form in which chefs are challenged to create quality dishes and to keep improving their knowledge.

Metallica

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Arnold Budiawan

Kitchen music?

House music

Both

Meat or vegetables?

Both, but veggies are a daily necessity

Ayam bakar

Secret fast food love?

Jack in the Box in Seattle, USA

Bread with shredded meat, low-fat milk

Favourite breakfast?

Scrambled eggs, bacon and toast

Soda-gas bubbler

Most useless kitchen utensil?

Stone knife sharpener

Again, bread with shredded meat, low-fat milk

Last meal?

Empal sayur asam

Energy drink

Best hangover cure?

Bloody Mary

Kopi tubruk

How do you like your coffee?

Espresso

Vietnamese spring rolls

Most bizarre food you’ve eaten?

Sea worms

Sabayon

Your seduction dish?

Mini tenderloin steak and oysters

Singing

What else can be done in a kitchen?

Messing around with the kitchen staff

Knives and cutting board

Your kitchen fetish?

Gloves

June 2012

TasteDrinks The idea You’ll find the glamorous Umbra standing in the shadow of (oh we’re good) the huge Kem Chicks building just round the corner from Starbucks and Eastern Promise. Inside, this semi-alfresco joint is both supremely classy and darkly seductive. Umbra’s soft lighting, candles, modernist décor and sofas should impress even the louchest of lounge lizards and the doors don’t close til 3am at the weekend. Reservations are recommended though.

Our tasting notes This orange-coloured concoction came served in a small, square, chemist-style bottle wrapped in brown paper, like something some American hobo would swig from while shambling around the streets of Milwaukee. Unusual presentation, unusual taste. The sharpness of the tequila was slightly blunted but also somewhat weirded out by the mango sweetness and the hazelnut hints, resulting in something that ended up tasting like Umbra, some crazy alcoholic Jl. Taman Kemang I condiment or salad T: 0821 1000 6000, dressing. Don’t get www.umbrajakarta.com us wrong though, we liked it.

The mixture Umbra has a decent menu and a cocktailpacked drinks list that put it firmly in the Immigrant or Loewy bracket.

Signature cocktails here include the Silent Killer (wasn’t that something to do with breaking wind?), a perplexing mix of tequila, anise liqueur and Worcestershire sauce. We had our reservations about this one though and so plumped for the 1920, a blend of tequila, mango, hazelnut syrup and lime, although such a combination could also be considered as being somewhat on the curious side.

kiki djaffar

Mango & Passion Fruit Mojito

1920

Why you should drink it One should always try new things in life and we’d humbly suggest that Umbra’s 1920 fits the bill in this regard. Prepare for a taste bud bamboozling.

When This is one for a late-night session when you’re feeling in the mood for adventure. Slip into a comfy couch and let Umbra’s magic medicines do the rest.

The idea CJs and its boombastic live music, sexy dancing, nubile patrons and freeflowing cocktails can be found in the otherwise rarified confines of the five-star 40-storey Hotel Mulia Senayan.

This vibrant nightspot always seems to be busy as punters sup on top cocktails and gyrate away those Batavia blues. Lubrication at the Mulia is provided by a sizeable drinks list, although it’ll cost you a pretty penny to get truly tipsy here. Top of the CJs drinks chart are its signature mojitos, which

hotel mulia senayan Jl. Asia Afrika Senayan, T: 021 574 7777 www.hotelmulia.com

the bar rightly prides itself on.

The mixture We opted for the Mango & passion fruit mojito, which added a dazzling dab of tropical fruit to the usual white rum, limejuice and mint. The result was a Cuban highball to die for that exactly splits the difference between Jakarta and Havana. A couple of these babies should prime you nicely for a serious rugcutting session on the CJs dance floor. Fruity mojitos always work a treat, softening the lime into euphonious whole, and famous mojito fan Ernest Hemingway would surely give CJs the thumbs up on this one.

Our tasting notes Fruity and vivacious, this one just sparkles.

The dry season is finally upon us (if it’ll just stop raining for goodness sake) and a little Caribbean cheer is just what the good Dr Castro ordered. The perfect sharpener after a long sunny day in the saddle.

Why you should drink it Do you drink to forget or forget to drink? Either way we’d recommend the CJs Mango & Passion Fruit Mojito.

It’s a support group in a glass.

When Wednesday nights are usually pretty full on at CJs, possibly due to it being ladies’ night.

If you’re looking for a little midweek relief from life’s stresses and strains, then bag a Bluebird to the Mulia after work.

- SIMON PITCHFORTH

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TasteTopTables+Bars

Eat, drink and be merry This month’s must-visit restaurants and watering holes

Lucy in the Sky

Why Sporting a rooftop-garden concept, this bar-cum-lounge is a newcomer to the city night scene and boasts a great view of the SCBD skyscrapers.

There’s also a sizable drinks list to enjoy.

Order Bihar fever grass.

Spend Rp. 150,000.

Fairgrounds, SCBD Lot 14. Jl. Jend.

Sudirman Kav. 52-53, T: 021 515 2308/09 Basement

Bars Diagonale

The intimate design of the Diagonale bar and lounge will definitely enchant guests and encourages some serious relaxation. Alternatively, why not party like there’s no tomorrow?

We chatted with Zahra Zettira, the charming young lady responsible for media relations at Plaza Senayan’s glitzy Diagonale lounge and bar, and she explained the idea behind the name and their speciality Indonesian food concept.

What is the concept behind Diagonale?

Why Diagonale?

The name derives from our interior design.

All of our design elements feature diagonal shapes, from our tables and ceiling decorations to the patterns on the bar. Even our menu is diagonal in shape. There’s really no special philosophy underlying the diagonals though!

Do you have any signature drinks?

Yes we do. Our signature drinks are our cocktails, which include the Diagonale island tea, the lemon lychee tini and the dragon mojito. These are popular with the ladies, who can enjoy free cocktails every Wednesday night.

Diagonale is a glam VVIP lounge in which people can come to chill out or have a meeting, since we are open What makes Diagonale stand from 11am. Our initial target out from other bars and Plaza Senayan, market is socialites and lounges?

Jl. Asia Afrika No. 8, A-listers because usually when Although Diagonale is primarily a T: 021 572 5570 they attend a party, they want lounge that caters to socialites and exclusivity and comfort, without A-listers, we also serve meals here the need to mingle with the and our forte is Indonesian food, public, and that’s where Diagonale steps in. especially nasi campur Bali, gado-gado gulung, As for music, well we usually play house and and tahu isi Diagonale. Our food prices are classic disco during the night and cater to also very reasonable for a sophisticated bar customers aged 25 and above. and lounge such as this.

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Why Situated in the basement of Kemang’s Swiss-Bel Hotel, this is the place for live music in Jakarta and has been hosting various gigs by local independent bands since it first opened last year. They also have a good selection of drinks at the bar.

Order Cold beer and enjoy the music.

Spend Rp. 150,000.

Swiss-Bel Hotel Kemang, Jl. Kemang Raya No. 7, T: 021 719 8000

Mad Dogs Pub & Bistro

Why Mad Dogs is an old player in the Jakarta bar scene and is well known in the expatriate community. Established in 2004, Mad Dogs has gained a reputation as one of the best-value casual-dining spots in South Jakarta. Big screen sport is also on hand for the big match action.

Order Cold beer and fish and chips.

Spend Rp. 250,000.

Cilandak Commercial Estate, Building 305, Jl. Raya Cilandak KKO, T: 021 789 0071

Red Square

Why Jakarta’s first vodka bar is a vibrant party zone at the weekends, when it gets positively rammed with sozzled punters. Features a 3D skyline of Red Square in Moscow and plenty of heady beverages.

Order Red Island.

Spend Rp. 200,000.

Plaza Senayan Arcadia, Jl. New Delhi Pintu I Senayan, T: 021 7074 8555

Bibliotheque Restaurant & Lounge

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Why This library-themed lounge is a must-visit if you’re looking for a change of atmosphere. With a new décor revamp and new menu items, make yourself feel smart as you lounge between stacks of books.

Order Cosmopolitan.

Spend Rp. 300,000.

Sampoerna Strategic Square, South Tower, Ground Floor, T: 021 5795 6977

Domain Bar and Grill

Why Located in the Senayan City basement, Domain’s pine interior lends this lounge-cumclub a cosy yet cool ambience.

A great place for a dance, Domain also serves the finest chocolate fondue in town.

Order Anything with alcohol in it.

Spend Rp. 300,000.

Senayan City, basement floor, Jl. Raya Asia Afrika, T: 021 7278 1641 June 2012

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TasteTopTables+Bars VIETNAMESE Pho 24

Why There aren’t a lot of eateries in Jakarta that sell delicious Vietnamese noodles, making Pho 24 a must-visit restaurant. Straight from Vietnam, the noodles down here are supremely authentic.

Order Pho with beef.

Spend Rp. 50,000.

Jl. Wolter Monginsidi no. 71, T: 021 7278 8411

JAPANESE Pasta de Waraku

already grandparents and they bring their children and grandchildren here to reminisce about the old times at Keyaki.

Restaurants Japanese

Keyaki

One of the oldest and most iconic Japanese restaurants in town, Keyaki in the Sari Pan Pacific Jakarta has been around for an amazing 36 years now.

We sat down with Yucy Natalia, the restaurant’s manager, and got her to spill the beans behind the success of Keyaki.

Do you have any signature dishes at Keyaki?

Our Mix Kinoko Foil, a mushroom dish, is very famous. It’s a healthy soup consisting of three kinds of mushrooms: shitake, enoki and shimaje. Other restaurants may serve the same soup but it won’t taste like ours!

We also serve Gyu Satsuma, a grilled, A5-rated cut of Wagyu sirloin beef, which comes served with Sari Pan Pacific Hotel, a garlic-and-peanut sauce.

Jl. M.H. Thamrin No. 6, T: 021 2993 2752 What makes Keyaki’s

How have you managed to remain so popular for 36 years?

One of the reasons for this is the consistency of our product quality. The taste of our food hasn’t changed in almost 36 years!

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Why This casual diner offers delicious Western and Japanese-style pasta dishes and is both healthy and affordable. The menu here features salads, pasta and curry, as well as some unique pizza creations.

Order Carbonara Waraku style.

Spend Rp. 70,000.

Mall Pondok Indah 2, level 3, T: 021 7592 0608

robatayaki so famous?

Well it gives diners a warm, homely feeling, as they get to choose from selections of fresh meat, fish and vegetables directly. Our robatayaki counter speciality is our delicious robata sauce. We serve regular items, such as salmon and unagi, while we also stock seasonal items, such as ayu shioyaki – a river fish from the USA – which can be enjoyed in May.

ITALIAN Red Tomato

Why Not just another pizza parlour, Red Tomato serves

offers European cuisine. The restaurant has a laidback ambience, with lines of green and yellow freezers filled with various drinks that you can grab yourself.

Order Spaghetti carbonara.

Spend Rp. 63,000.

Grand Indonesia, East Mall, Level 1, T: 021 2358 1157

hand-tossed Italian creations.

Crispy thin pizzas are their speciality but you can also feast on risotto and pasta.

The restaurant ambience is also fun and fresh, making dining at Red Tomato a pleasant experience.

Order Pizza calzone.

Spend Rp. 100,000.

Plaza Indonesia, T: 021 3190 0386 EUROPEAN Cappocaccia

Why This popular spot is the city’s first gourmet sandwich restaurant. There are more than 30 kinds of sandwich on offer and most of them are ultra delicious. If you fancy a light yet tasty lunch, then head down here for an alfresco bite.

Order Trebellico.

Spend Rp. 150,000.

Pacific Place Mall, ground floor, T: 021 5797 3658

Marche

Why Originally located in Hotel Gran Melia, this Swiss restaurant has now expanded to two popular malls. Marche is truly a great eatery for anyone and is family friendly.

Order Roasted or grilled chicken.

Spend Rp. 200,000.

Plaza Senayan, 5th floor, T: 021 5790 5856

INTERNATIONAL Cardamon

ismaya Catering CafĂŠ

Why Run by the legendary Ismaya Group, this joint

Why This homey restaurant offers a variety of food, from Mexican and Western to Asian.

The drinks list is also quite comprehensive, ranging from after-dinner coffees and June 2012

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TasteTopTables+Bars non-alcoholic mocktails to some head-spinning alcoholic cocktails. Eat out by the pool for a more romantic mood.

Order Spinach lasagna.

Spend Rp. 70,000.

Jl. Pejaten Raya no. 46, T: 021 719 4646

Ya Udah Bistro

Why Despite its unconvincingly wacky name, this diner is a proven family favourite and offers tasty European and Asian fare. The burger and sausage dishes are well cooked, and if you want a high-cholesterol blow out, then we’d suggest you to try the pork piccata.

Order Pork piccata.

Spend Rp. 200,000 (including beer) Jl. Johar No. 15, T: 021 314 0343

Restaurants international

Pastis

So what’s new then?

Pastis is one of the “it” restaurants We are now aiming our menu at people who want to have a relaxed afternoon at Pastis and in the Kuningan area. Now, the restaurant’s management has been have thus created some burger and sandwich selections. These dishes are perfect for those taken over by Aston International who don’t want a heavy lunch. and Pastis is looking to soar even higher with its brand new culinary What are your plans team. Bernard James for the future?

Pasalbessy, Pastis’ Aston at Kuningan Suites, We want to concentrate on our executive chef, shares Jl. Setiabudi Utara, breakfast because there is a his new restaurant T: 021 526 0285 surprisingly high demand from concept with us.

Is there any difference between the old Pastis and the new Aston-managed eatery?

Yes, there have been plenty of changes. We have removed some of the older menu items and replaced them with new ones. In fact, around 40 per cent of the original menu has been changed.

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Kuningan Suite residents for something to eat bright and early in the morning. In the near future we want to create an all-day breakfast menu. We’re thinking of including eggs Benedict and any style of eggs with selections of bacon. In the future we are also planning to build a pastry kitchen to maximise our pastry and dessert options.

INDONESIAN Kedai Kak Ani

Why Situated in the heart of Kemang, Kedai Kak Ani brings Indonesian flavour to this Western-cuisine dominated district of Jakarta. Serving

North Sumatran fare and dishes from Medan, this place adds a touch of uniqueness with its open-kitchen concept.

Order Sate daging bumbu kacang.

Spend Rp. 50,000.

Jl. Kemang Selatan no. 125A, T: 021 719 8587 CHINESE Fu Ho Seafood

Why Previously known as Ah Yat Seafood, this Chinese restaurant has a longstanding reputation for serving sensational seafood. This is another spot to experience authentic Chinese seafood, ranging from local to imported creatures of the deep. Beside the underwater fare, the dim sum is also decent.

Order The scallops.

Spend Rp. 500,000 (for two persons).

Jl. Pintu Lima, Komp. Gelora Bung Karno, Senayan, T: 021 570 5333

unique history. Like its sister restaurant, Lara Djonggrang, this eatery is packed with ancient ornaments and items, which serve to create an authentic 1920s atmosphere.

Shanghai Blue focuses on Chinese and peranakan cuisine and offers decent value for money.

Order Steamed crab with black beans.

Spend Rp. 300,000.

Jl. Kebon Sirih Raya No. 79, T: 021 391 8690 WESTERN Smoking Joe’s

No Signboard

Why Smoking Joe’s serves authentic St Louis-style, smoked-barbeque cuisine and the Jakarta branch is the first to open outside the USA. The barbeque dishes here, be they pork, beef or chicken, are a real winner.

Order Pork barbecue.

Spend Rp. 300,000.

The East building, Level 2, Jl. Lingkar Mega Kuningan Kav E3.2 #1, T: 021 5795 8148

Why This name is renowned in Singapore as the best seafood restaurant in town and Jakarta has had its own branch since 2008. This is basically the best Chinese seafood restaurant in the capital.

Order The chilli crab.

Spend Rp. 500,000 (for two persons).

Pacific Place Mall, ground floor, T: 021 5140 0595 Warong & Lounge Shanghai Blue 1920

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Travel

INDONESIA’S BEST SURFING SPOTS / GUNUNG AGUNG, BALI / BALI REVIEWS + EVENTS

bali updates

survival of the fittest Test your endurance, strength and stamina in the Biznet Bali International Triathlon 2012. Of the two races held, the Olympic Distance Course covers a 1,5km swim in the warm waters of Jimbaran Bay, a 40km bike ride along hilly paved roads, and a 10km run leading to a beach finish at the Four Seasons Resort Jimbaran. Alternatively, the Sprint Distance Course challenges your stamina in a set comprising a 500m swim, a 20km bike ride and a 5km run. Also don’t miss out the post-race sunset cocktail gathering at AYANA Resort and Spa, where fun games and lucky draws await.

CORBIS

www.balitriathlon.com

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hu stingray

Surfing is more than the act of riding waves. The hunt for those waves is an adventure in itself. It involves exploring the coast, travelling to foreign lands, boarding planes, and creeping across ragged reefs. Then there are the strangers in the line-up, and locals on the beach, and sunset beer. It’s all this that makes surfing so special.

For many, Bali has become a familiar surf stompingground, more of a staging post for the real adventures that lie across the Indonesian archipelago at large.

Thousands of waves, all just a short adventure away. Here are a few of the classics.

Wave unting Heed the siren calling beyond the borders of Bali and venture out to

the gnawing breaks and hidden surfing paradises across the rest of the country

BY Stingray

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Archipelago 1 Playgrounds Mentawai Islands The name says it all: Playgrounds. Imagine jungle gyms, swing sets, balance beams and vast slides, then turn them all into fast-moving mountains of water. The name Playgrounds refers to a small region around of 20 different waves, with names like 4 Bobs, A Frames, Bankvaults and Rifles. Whatever the swell is doing, no matter which way the wind blows, or however you’re feeling, there’s always a wave to ride around here.

The Mentawai Islands are a stretch of some 70 small islands off the coast of Sumatra. The area is one of the most wave-rich and consistent regions in the world, and it has long been dominated by the seasonal boat trips that bring a dozen or so surfers out on weeklong liveaboard adventures, zipping from wave to wave as conditions dictate. A more recent phenomenon in the area is the landbased camps, which feature larger rooms, WI-FI and a bit more “head space”. The camps keep speedboats on hand to race surfers around the Playgrounds looking for the day’s best conditions. The waves are world-class. The islands are a postcard paradise. And the whole experience is quite an adventure. Even the Mentawai people are a unique experience: tribal natives untouched by the outside world. That’s how this whole area feels: untouched. Until you bounce off the reef, at least.

2 G-Land Java G-Land is a place of legends. A remote tip on the south-east coast of Java, it was one of the first spots beyond Bali that surfers began adventuring to, and stories from there have become part of surfing mythology. This includes the night the tsunami hit, the tiger tracks through the camps, and the railway tracks leading down to the break. G-Land was featured in so many ’80s and ’90s surf movies, was blown

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left. One breaks right. Another goes both ways. And there’s even a few other waves a short walk away. What else could you ask for? A pool. Good food. Friendly locals.

Cheap massages.

The trip might not feel as adventurous as some other off-Bali treks, but that’s the beauty of Lakey Peak. It has fewer people.

There’s less wear and tear, less hassle.

You’re still in the middle of nowhere. And the waves themselves are as good as you’ll find anywhere else in Indonesia. Experience a solid wipeout on Scar Reef and you’ll know you’ve travelled far enough. Now go have a margarita by the pool.

4 Desert Point up in so many magazines, and was even the site of the first world tour contest in Indonesia. Pretty much any serious surfer can conjure up iconic images of the fast, hollow lefts that break along its reef. Getting there is all about finally inserting yourself into those images, about living the legend.

There’s not a lot to do at G-Land besides surf.

The place is remote. It’s jungle-rustic. It’s about as surf-centric as anywhere can be. But that’s kinda the point. Don’t get distracted. Get barrelled.

Lombok This used to be one of those names people only whispered, a secret spot which hardened locals guarded with blood. They’d camp out for weeks on end, never allowing pros or photographers access.

These days, however, it’s used for many a surf campaign shoot, for movie scenes and speedboatassisted day trips. It’s on the map – even if the old school locals won’t admit it. Speedboats or not, it’s still a rugged trip. Facilities on the beach are minimal, but there are several simple warungs to sleep and eat at between tides. Beyond that, it’s all about surfing. Desert Point is easily one of the best tube riding waves in the world. The drop is relatively easy, but once you’re in the tube it’s almost like it won’t let you out. The wave gets bigger. The reef gets shallower.

Your eyes get wider and wider. But don’t

The Mentawai Islands are a stretch of some 70 small islands off the coast of Sumatra.

3 Lakey Peak Sumbawa Sumbawa is a 90-minute flight from Bali. The breaks are a short drive from the airport, and there are several decent places to stay near the waves. There are also multiple surfing options. One breaks

be fooled by the pretty pictures – this wave is for experts only: the reef is shallow and the currents deadly. And competition for the best waves can be ferocious. On top of that, it’s very fickle, requiring very specific swell conditions and only breaking on certain tides.

But if you lock into one of those tube rides, nothing else will matter.

5 Lagundri Bay Nias The discovery of Lagundri Bay is something of a surfing legend. In 1975, two surf pioneers saw a map in a chieftain’s house in North Sumatra and followed it to this bay. The long, hollow right-breaking

reef they found was one of the best they had ever seen, and they made a pact to keep it secret. Obviously, the secret is out.

Today there are several surf camps and the island of Nias is a well-known mecca for surfers interested in some rugged travel. It’s not easy to get there, and local conditions are still fairly harsh, but that’s part of the charm. Also part of the charm is the easy paddle out, the perfection of the wave, and the magic “reverse current” which sculpts the waves into flawlessness and aids the paddle back to the peak after each ride. The island itself is small and remote, so it’s managed to remain culturally intact, with its own unique tribal rituals. Drop in on a local

wall-jumping ceremony and you’ll wonder what planet you’re on.

So there are the premiere targets – a few of Indonesia’s most legendary surf adventures. The waves are some of the best in the world, but it’s the getting there and back that makes it all such fun. That’s surfing for you. It’s about loading your boards and climbing onto a single-prop plane, or bouncing down dirt roads in an old-school tuk-tuk.

Forget fancy hotels and fine dining. By the time you reach those cool barrels all battered and beaten from 24 hours of non-stop travel, you’re going to think: “Okay, where should we surf next?” That’s how all this started in the first place.

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ArchipelagoUpdates padang

tour de singkarak This prestigious Sumatran cycle race is this year taking place from June 4-10 and the race route runs between Sawahlunto and Padang, in contrast with last year’s race, which started in Padang. Twenty-five professional teams from 30 countries, including seven teams from Indonesia, will be trying their luck in the 800km race and a total prize pot of Rp. 1 billion is on offer. www.tourdesingkarak.com

bali

royal retreat Queen Villas & Spa has finally opened its doors to the public. The largest hotel to be found in the three Gili islands is now ready to welcome patrons with some top hospitality and is located in a glorious sunset-friendly part of Gili Trawangan, ensuring picture-perfect sunset views.

The resort boasts 125 rooms that range from resort-type accommodation to villas with private pools. A spacious, freshwater swimming pool is also available to keep guests cool. In fact, Queen Villas & Spa is the only hotel in the Gilis to offer such a pool.

Queen’s Coffee Shop, Le Queen fine-dining restaurant, Voodoo Bar & Lounge, Taman Gili Pool Bar, Dragon Imperial Oriental Restaurant, Queen’s Magic Spa and the Bee Diving centre are also on hand to liven up your stay. During this opening period, Queen Villas & Spa is offering special promotional rates that start at Rp. 1,288,000 net per night, which includes breakfast for two and return transfer to the island’s harbour by cidomo (horse and cart), the only vehicles that are allowed on Gili Trawangan.

T: 0370 633 686, www.villaqueen.co.id

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solo

solo batik carnival Garuda Indonesia has just On June 30, the annual Solo Batik Carnival returns once more for a fifth round of fun. This much-loved event will feature a parade running from Jalan Slamet Riyadi to Surakarta City Hall, while the opening of the festival will take place at Sriwedari Stadium. Over 200 people will be taking part in this extravagant event and will be showing off their talents through the use of cheap and recycled materials.

Surakarta Culture and Tourism Department, T: 0271 711 435

MAKASSAR

ASTON MAKASSAR Aston Makassar The Aston Makassar will be opening its doors this June and this new four-star hotel offers 177 suites and is located only 20 minutes from Sultan Hasanuddin International Airport, as well as within easy walking distance of the famous Losari Beach. The Aston Makassar also offers a sky-dining restaurant boasting amazing ocean views, an indoor swimming pool, complete gym facilities, five meeting rooms and a grand ballroom with a capacity of 1000.

Jl. Hasanuddin No. 10, T: 0361 758 699 yogyakarta

Tattoo festival

gorontalo

gorontalo sky Garuda Indonesia has just begun operation of direct flights from Jakarta to Gorontalo in Sulawesi. Previously, passengers had to transit in Makassar. Utilising a Boeing B737-800PNG, flight GA 642 can accommodate up to 156 passengers and 12 business-class passengers. www.garuda-indonesia.com

Organised by the Java Tattoo Club and taking place at Jogja National Museum on June 30, this event will celebrate the year of the water dragon in fine style. There will be tattoo stands, tattoo shows and a tattoo competition for those with dragon-themed designs.

Jl. Amri Yahya 1, Yogyakarta, T: 0819 3173 3888

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TravelBali

Gunung Agung An enchanting destination that’s not for the faint-hearted, the island’s holiest mountain conceals more secrets than just sprawling vistas BY katy roberts

G

UNUNG AGUNG, THE MAJESTIC and sacred mountain of Bali, rises ten thousand feet from sea level to dominate the island’s easterly views. Be it from the beach at Sanur or at sunset looking eastward from the beaches of Seminyak, it is there, deeply etched against the sky and looming over the alluring landscape.

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find that the power of this holy mountain draws you into its majesty and mystery, even in your dreams.

The Balinese have long held their mountains in high regard, and Agung is the holiest of them all. Devout Balinese make annual pilgrimages to the temple, meaning that sometimes entry to the public is restricted or forbidden. So be aware when planning a trip and check with local guides or hosts before you decide which day to visit.

Gunung Agung is an active volcano which last erupted in 1963, causing extensive damage and great loss of life.

This prompted a wave of transmigration,

propelling Bali into a new era as people had to seek other ways of living. Somewhat oddly they found much was provided by the eruption itself in the way of construction materials that contributed to the building of hotels and guesthouses in the late 1960s.

Today though the area is restored, the lands are lush and fertile, the rice paddies emerald, and the driving routes through the area take you past some of the most picturesque vistas you can see. There are two distinct ways to approach a visit to the mountain. One is to visit the temple, the other to take the mountain climb. Yet both are equally rewarding.

Dos Observe the rules. When visiting any temple in Bali it is important that the proper dress code and behaviour are adhered to.

Be careful. While the temple is a place of worship, it does unfortunately attract the opportunistic.

Take care of personal possessions.

Refuse politely. Touts can be annoying but if you are polite, they will generally leave you alone. Sadly a few touts like to amuse themselves by irritating visitors with an incessant sales pitch.

Pay attention to the weather conditions on the mountain. Your guide will keep you informed, but you must be the one who decides if you want to climb.

Be realistic about your capabilities. Although we know from experience that the southern climb can be undertaken after a good dinner, we advise avoiding alcohol the night of the climb as it can make you feel cold.

Don’ts Take unwarranted amounts of cash with you to the temple.

Rush. The temple is to be enjoyed slowly.

Find the space in your mind to relax and escape into the history and sacred spaces.

Wear clothing that is suited to the beach.

Avoid showing shoulders, upper arms and cleavage, bra straps and bare legs. A sarong, a sash or a scarf is useful to have handy.

Give money to the children who beseech you to be photographed.

Hesitate to ask for more information from your guides and encourage them to tell you stories.

Some guides are just waiting for you to show an interest in their experiences.

Forget to bring batteries or your own torch when climbing at night.

It is always better to be over-prepared than to find yourself with a dimming light in the darkness.

andi sucirta

Take back with you what you bring to the mountain. Return all

plastic to your hotel or car and dispose of it where it can be recycled.

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TravelBali

Getting there There are wonderful routes that take visitors to the area of Gunung Agung. You can start from Ubud and drive east through rural scenes to the city of Amlapura, which you can also reach if coming from Amed.

Alternatively there is a very good road leading from Sanur, past Ketewel and Padang Bai that turns inland at Manggis just before Candi Dasa. Â

Things to see The temple was built on the site of a sacred village, Hulundang Basukih, now known as Besakih Village. The name derives from the ancient Sanskrit 128

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word for saviour, although megalithic relics at the site indicate that the area was considered hallowed long before the eleventh century when the original temple of Besakih was built by Rsi Markandya. The complex contains a central temple, and twenty-one other “companion� temples that combine to create the largest temple complex in Bali.

It was designed so that the platforms and gateways continually draw the devotee to ever-higher pinnacles, closer to the heavens. While the tourists of today may not have the same purpose in mind, and some of those who appear to be devotees may just as easily whip out a painting or

two of the geographical majesty to sell you, the architectural complexity still provides stimulating and thought-provoking inspirations on the slope of the mountain.

Besakih can be crowded and there are touts, especially in the car parking areas. But with care and consideration, it is possible to negotiate your way through the cacophony and chaos of the throngs to the quieter, elevated areas. Bearing in mind the original purpose of the temple, you may consider the intrusions as merely appropriate distractions on your way to a greater sense of peace, and enjoy the breathtaking view from the higher ground, with the

Things to do

Cycling The rice fields of Sideman can be explored on mountain bikes that many hotels now rent along with a guide. For keen cyclists the back road from Ubud makes a thrilling afternoon ride.

Bird watching The Alila Manggis has bird-watching activities for its guests that can include trips to Nusa Penida, the home of the Bali Starling, which is easily reached from the east coast.

Diving Amok Bay and Padang Bai have both snorkelling and diving spots.

Alternatively, Amed is barely an hour away from the centre of Candi Dasa.

Eat

and your climbing stamina. The ultimate climb starts at midnight and has you breathless and awed at the summit in time for the most spectacular sunrise high above the clouds. Torches and strong comfortable shoes are prerequisite, while the need for a light jacket and a scarf at night is likely. But don’t weigh yourself down too much.

A good guide will advise you on what to wear, even though he himself may be wearing only slip-on sandals and shorts.

A good guide will also tell you stories of the mountain that will leave you wondering if he had given inspiration to JRR Tolkien. The mountain myths are wonderfully rich and, when they are told with absolute conviction by the mountain guides, you may feel the journey is not just to another level of the world, but to another dimension within it. The trek itself is not overly strenuous on the east face.

There is a more challenging option to climb from the north, but do this only if you are of more than average fitness. Be sure to maintain hydration as the height of the climb can bring on altitude sickness in some climbers.

The best guides come recommended through accommodation in Candi Dasa, and it is a good idea to have a room booked for the day of your descent in order to recover in the ocean air and enjoy the area of Candi Dasa.

The complex contains a central temple, and twentyone other “companion” temples that combine to create the largest temple complex in Bali.

pleasant breezes and the beautifully constructed buildings as you climb.

andi sucirta

The mountain The best approach for the casual climber, as opposed to the fanatical one, is from the east through the rice fields of Sidemen and the charmingly quirky village of Salak. Its midnight market turns night into day as farmers and buyers mingle and trade in the cool of the early hours, preparing for the journeys that will bring the sellers by dawn to the grand market in Denpasar.

A guide is essential, and whether you want to trek by day or night will depend on your preferred arrival times at the summit

Bali Asli (T: 082 897 030 098, www.baliasli.com. au) in Amlapura invites guests to enjoy the exploration and understanding of Balinese food through their cooking classes, extensive local menus and lunch time events that make the visit to their traditional rice paddy setting indulgent and delicious.

Vincent’s (T: 62 363 41368, www.vincentsbali. com) in Candi Dasa is something of an institution, providing wall space for an eclectic mix of modern art from local artists and a reliably high-standard menu of western and local cuisine.

Stay

Tirta Ayu Hotel & Restaurant Tirtagangga, The Water Palace, Karangasem, T: 0363 22503, www.hoteltirtagangga.com An hour away from Gunung Agung, the accommodation is attached to the historic water palace of Tirta Gangga, hence you’ll sample a taste of a Rajah’s lifestyle in the east of Bali.

Amankila Manggis,Karangasem, T: 0363 41333, www.amanresorts.com A secluded five-star resort flanked with a looming view of Lombok. The location is one and a half hours off the Gunung Agung slopes.

Alila Manggis Desa Buitan, Manggis, Karangasem, T: 0363 41011, www.alilahotels.com Stylish and snuggled in the lush greenery, Alila Manggis is suitable for divers due to its short distance to the stunning Padang Bai harbour.

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TravelBaliReviews

ayana resort AND spa bali What’s the resort like?

One of the biggest resorts on the island, Ayana Resort and Spa is also the one with arguably the most international and domestic awards. Its sheer location is a strong enough reason to stay here, and on top of offering an unobtrusive view of the Indian Ocean, it boasts a great many world-class facilities that make up the perfect holiday: a superb spa experience, unforgettable dinner dates and one-of-a-kind, cliff-top, underthe-stars boogie sessions.

What are the rooms like?

Recently, the resort completed a refurbishment of more than 200 of its suites and rooms.

Ayana Resort and Spa Bali, Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, T: 0361 702 222, www.ayanaresort.com

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The new rooms and suites however still sport the Ayana signature vibe, where intricate Balinese carvings and traditional textiles are blended together with cool rain showers, futuristic lighting and chic sofas. We really like the new-look suites’ huge balconies and also their swanky bathtubs and, of course, the extracomfortable canopied beds.

The resort’s Club Floor has also been given a facelift, which includes the Club Lounge and its members’ benefits.

The complimentary food and beverage presentations now change daily, offering creations from seven different restaurants at the resort.

On top of that they now have

a programme called Club Connections Package which gives guests even more benefits from the resort’s other facilities such as the spa, Rock Bar, the Langit Theatre.

What about the facilities?

This hotel has a state-of-theart gym, steam rooms, and a sauna. It also has one of the world’s largest aquatonic seawater therapy pools, which is full of cool water jets, and, of course, a massive spa complex considered by many to be one of the best in the world. On top of all that, the resort has five beautiful wedding venues,

many trendy boutiques and a perfume-making studio.

What about food and drink?

Ayana Resort and Spa has as many as 12 dining venues.

One of them is Dava, whose head chef is Jusman So, a chef extraordinaire who hails from Singapore. Then there is Sami Sami which serves Italian fare, Kisik, which is full of delicious seafood, and, of course, Rock Bar, a watering hole like no other on this planet.

Based on a minimum four-night stay, rates start at US$474++/night for a Club Room and US$554++/night for a Club Suite.

mantra The setting

With an open patio where you can just slide in and rub shoulders with like-minded strangers, Mantra possesses the kind of laid-back, island charm that big players often try to replicate. Add to that the warm mix of wooden tables and red-brick décor, topped with glass lamps of multiple origin, and the venue reverberates with a great fusion of tastes and vibes, which in part is what Bali uniquely is in modern times.

The mezzanine floor functions as a lounge where musicians do their stuff and lend their aural allure to keeping the guests sipping the generous cocktails.

The food

Vegetarian and seafood are the themes displayed on the menu.

This concept comes from

Tipi Jabrik, the founder, who favours these kinds of dishes.

Chef Renaz perfects the idea by serving a rich selection of meals with cuisines from all over the globe. Reintroduce yourself to local delicacies served with a twist, such as

the sate tempe (tempeh satay) Sample the Rocket’s Mantra, and the baked pumpkin urap which cleverly infuses aromatic salad. Better yet, do some Japanese wasabi into the sharing with friends over drink (we relish it!). Or have such delectable plates as the some beautiful pinot grigio to sweet and sour crispy squid complement your fish order. And or the prawn and snapper if your preferences are not on fishcakes. The main dishes the menu, rest assured that Tim revolve around fish, pasta will happily take up your order and potatoes, and we can’t and concoct your special drink. help keeping our Another manners trim element that’s when the char worth rave Mantra, grilled yellow fin reviews is the Jl. Raya Petitenget tuna arrives at the entertainment, No. 77x, Seminyak, table. The smooth which ranges from T: 0361 473 7681, pale pink exterior lively acoustic www.mantrabali.com masks the fresh, performances tender insides. to quirky art It’s an overall exhibitions. “It’s smart execution. random,” says Tipi of the types of music playing at the venue. Random indeed the unique might be the perfect leitmotif The bold concept of Mantra for this eclectic joint, whose is a force to be reckoned with comfort food is honestly among the joints dotted along genuine and sumptuously Petitenget Street, as is the healthy. -CHRIS ANDRE bar manned by Tim Adams.

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TravelBaliUpdates jun 16

in the arms of the angel

JUN 7 - JUL 30

LOST AND FOUND Lost and Found is an apt title for dancer-turned-painter Marijke Lambregtse’s exhibition at Ganesha Gallery. Drawing from two distinct themes, the artworks on display elucidate her voice regarding awareness of environmental conditions and the crucial role of women in society. Mundane images such as rubbish are reinterpreted as objects of visual art through her delicate brush strokes, and the canvas, which is often layered with graffiti-like scribbles, conveys her personal messages. Dutch-born Lambregtse now resides between the two worlds of Queensland and Bali.

Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resorts Bali at Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010 jun 11 - jul 9

so you think you can dance A whole month of parades is turning Denpasar into a little Brazilian Rio de Janeiro. The Bali Arts Festival opens up with dazzling traditional dances performed by the island’s maestros and virtuosos. On hand to officially cut the ribbon is President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono himself. From royal classic moves to temporary sways, the festival brings out the essential nature of flexible bodied Balinese, who know best how to translate emotions into movements. The whole agenda bearing the time and locations can be viewed on the following website.

www.baliartsfestival.com jul 14

bali ball Jemme Jewellery is holding the second Bali Ball on July 14 during sunset at Woobar Rooftop champagne reception in the W Retreat & Spa Bali, Seminyak.

Enjoy the five-course gourmet dinner, a spectacular firework display and a special performance by the Bali Kids orphans. Attractive prizes and auction items also follow to raise funds for the orphanage. Extend the party fever into the next day, Sunday July 15, when The Black and Bling Sunset Party kicks off from 6pm till late. Proceeds from the Sunday event will also go to benefit the earmarked charities.

www.thebaliball.com

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Be a good angel this month and lend a helping hand to those in need. The annual charity I’m An Angel by Ku De Ta is celebrating its tenth anniversary, raising funds through live and silent auctions to empower the unfortunate rural communities on the island. The special guests this year include the uber-creative chef Ryan Clift from The Tipping Club and Janice Wong of 2AM Dessert Bar – both from Singapore.

Tijuana Cartel is also jumping on the bandwagon to kick the party vibe up a notch. Find out more about the I’m An Angel charity foundation at imanangel.org.

KU DE TA, Jl. Kayu Aya no. 9, Seminyak, T: 0361 736 969, www.kudeta.net

jun 1 - 3

the long weekend Sashay your way into the month of June in a sassy staccato of cha-cha-cha. Pachanga: Long Weekend Bali Edition, aka Perth’s number one Latin and salsa night, heats up the dance floor at Cubana Bar & Grill from Friday to Sunday. Drink in the lively twirls and dashes as DJ Mateo plays Colombian Merengue and Reggaeton, while DJ Juanito dishes out favourite Cuban records: Timba, Bachata and Cubaton. A live percussionist band and sexy dancers are on hand to add some zing to the fun and boisterous evenings at the one-and-only Cuban haven in Bali.

Cubana Bar & Grill, Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 12B, Seminyak, T: 0361 473 7671, www.cubanabali.com

june 9

beat it Let your hair down and boogie to the breakbeat tunes of DJ duo Stanton Warriors. As part of their Asian tour, Dominic Butler and Mark Yardley will spin their edgy underground electro sounds at the ample Mexican joint Poco Loco in Legian. Formed in 2001 in Bristol, England, the pair picked up their quirky name from a hexagonal manhole cover manufacturer called Stanton Ironworks, which in a way suits their uncanny musical genre. Sample the duo’s crafty rhythms as recorded in their best-selling album “Stanton Session Vol. 3”.

Poco Loco, Jl. Padma Utara Legian Bali, T: 0361 756 079, www.pocolocobali.com

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Cloud Gate and City Buildings, Millennium Park, Chicago

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GET TY IMAGES

TravelJourneys

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Our editors share the cities they would call a second home

Somewhere beyond the sea

TravelJourneys A morning private house and a morning mountain range, Osaka, Opposite page Grand Palace Bangkok

Osakans are known for their warmth and a walk around the colourful inner-city area is a feast for the senses.

The Land of the Rising Sun presents visitors with a tantalising glimpse of an ordered, hi-tech, prosperous Asia that certainly offers a strong contrast with the pell-mell chaos of Jakarta. Japan is itself a land of contrasts though, a country where Zen gardens, beautiful temples and cherry blossoms mix with “Blade Runner” boulevards, cutting-edge modernity and neon-lit romance. If you’re looking to take in both sides of this yin and yang experience, then Japan’s second city of Osaka, as opposed to Tokyo, is perhaps the best place to head for.

Osaka itself boasts plenty of wondrous attractions and the city also lies in the Kanzai area, which is particularly well-blessed with heritage sites and temples that offer respite from the twenty-first-century urban overload.

The city lies on the east coast of the main Japanese island of Honshu and is ringed with imposing mountains and scenic countryside.

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or Sydney in this regard.

A mere hour from downtown Osaka you’ll find the legendary city of Kyoto along with lesserknown but also stunningly picturesque spots such as Mino City and Nara, and all boast their own amazing houses of worship and beautifully bucolic parks.

The delightful city of Kobe also lies under an hour from central Osaka.

Downtown Osaka also offers a few historic gems including Osaka Castle, one of Japan’s most famous buildings, which sits nestled among 4,500 exquisite cherry trees. The city also boasts more modern delights and has a street-level vitality and energy that belies the grey monolithic concrete appearance that this huge urban sprawl first takes on as one steams into town along the elevated roadway from Kansai Airport.

The 170-metre-high Umeda Sky Building offers some great downtown viewing from its thirty-ninth-floor circular observation deck. Osaka also boasts the more international flavours of the colossal

Universal Studios Japan theme park, as well as the simply amazing Aquarium Kaiyukan, with its 35,000 marine creatures and three-storey-tall whale-shark tank, not to mention the 112-metre-high Tempozan Ferris Wheel outside. Four rivers also bisect the downtown area and it’s possible to take a short cruise through the canyons of skyscrapers.

Osakans are known for their warmth and a walk around the colourful inner-city area is a feast for the senses. Shopping and food galore should keep you busy for months on end here and, as the local saying goes, “Dress till you drop in Kyoto, eat till you drop in Osaka.” –SIMON PITCHFORTH

Chicago Dubbed as the windy city, Chicago lies in the American Midwest. The third-largest urban centre in America also serves as the capital of Illinois and is bursting with skyscrapers and decorated with arty statues that can easily be spotted standing between the city’s offices, in piazzas and parks. One of the most iconic of these sculptures is The Beam or Cloud Gate which can be found at Millennium Park.

CORBIS

Osaka

Magnificent Mile on Michigan Avenue is an area of Chicago where you can shop until you drop. The Mile is famous for its hip and upscale boutiques, which line the sides of the street – unlike Jakarta, where these types of stores are almost exclusively found in malls.

If you enjoy Ancol in Jakarta, you will definitely enjoy Navy Pier by Lake Michigan.

Navy Pier is a true one-stop entertainment destination, and boasts restaurants, souvenirs, a Ferris wheel, an iMax theatre, the Chicago Children’s Museum, the Smith Museum of Stained Glass Windows and the Chicago Shakespeare Theatre. Visitors can also enjoy a boat ride across Lake Michigan as well.

Chicago – which is also the home of US President Barack Obama – is perhaps best experienced from the top. Head down to Sears Tower Skydeck Chicago, which lies 103 floors up, and enjoy some stunning views of the city. Here you can step into The Ledge, a glass box that extends outwards from the Skydeck, and (if you’re feeling brave enough) literally have Chicago under your feet.

Sears Tower (previously known as Willis Tower) is the eighth tallest building in the world and was once the world’s tallest (back in the heady days of 1974).

Also, nestled in among the skyscrapers, sits the John Hancock building which, it is claimed, boasts the fastest lift in the world (it only takes a single minute to reach the ninety-sixth floor). Also trying to steal the spotlight is the Trump International Hotel and Tower, owned by property mogul Donald Trump, which is the secondtallest building in Chicago after Sears Tower.

Escape from the city’s towering buildings and enjoy a little sun by heading down to Maxwell Street Market, which is open every Sunday. The market is renowned for its street hawkers, who sell Mexican and international food, bargainpriced clothing, perfume and other items.

The hurly-burly of Chicago is somewhat comparable to that of Jakarta, except that it’s rather less chaotic and more civilised. This windy city has everything you need and more: a decent

public transportation system, culture, top educational facilities, and art and entertainment spots a plenty – a great city to live in. –DEISHA TAMAR

Bangkok Most people immediately fall in love with Bangkok when they touch down in the Thai capital. This legendary city always reminds me of a better-organised version of Jakarta in fact. The people, the city layout

and the culture aren’t so different from the Indonesian capital, which is why I always feel at home whenever I visit this SouthEast Asian shopping capital.

Bangkok, despite being a fastgrowing city, has done a really good job of preserving its native culture and the temples that dot the city are well maintained. Indeed, no visit to the City of Angels can be considered complete without a visit to at least one or two of

them. The most recommended houses of worship to take a look at are the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and Wat Pho (widely known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha). These two temples are the most visited in Bangkok and the best time to visit them is in the morning, when it’s cooler and generally less crowded. If you are planning to visit Wat Arun however, then you should wait until the afternoon when the views are superb.

Besides its many traditional attractions, Bangkok is also home to several modern tourist spots that really shouldn’t be missed. The first is Siam Ocean World, where you can meet a huge number of underwater animals from all over the globe face-to-face. The marine park covers an area of approximately 10,000sqm and is located inside the popular mall of Siam Paragon. And while you’re here you can also drop by the Madame Tussauds Museum in Siam Discovery Mall, just next to the Siam Paragon. Here you can pose with idols from Lady Gaga to Beyonce to David Beckham and the Tussauds waxwork collection continues to grow every year. And last but not least, you should allocate some time to check out Siam Niramit, an extravaganza involving hundreds of players and exotic animals such as elephants!

You should also set aside some time for a good old shopping spree of course. Don’t forget to bring an empty suitcase with you, as rest assured you will need it on the return flight home. The Chatuchak Weekend Market should be at the top of your shopping list. Sitting on a 27-acre plot of land, it takes more than a day to visit the entire market and this ever-popular traditional bazaar has 27 sections offering various goods from clothing to ceramics to plants. Bargaining is a must and bring a map if you don’t want to get lost.

If don’t fancy the humid traditional market, then head down to Platinum Mall.

Cute fashions and accessories are on offer here and are highly affordable. Again, don’t forget to bargain hard for the best deals.

–yohanes sandy

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TravelRoamingUpdates

malaysia

malaysia on the move Tourism Malaysia will be putting on two epic events this June. The first is the 1Malaysia International Tourism Night Floral Parade 2012, which will showcase over 12 lighted boats that will cruise Lake Putrajaya from June 30 until July 8. The parade will feature colourful boats depicting iconic and exotic flora and fauna reflecting each participating region. The second event is the 1Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival 2012, which will run for seven whole weeks from June 15. During this mammoth festival, shoppers will be able to enjoy discounts at shopping malls and department stores and the sale promises to be a paradise for shopaholics.

www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my thailand

dress-up in bangkok The Thai government has long taken a serious interest in the country’s tourist industry and this month the Bangkok International Fashion & Leather Fair comes to town and will feature all the latest clothes, textiles and fashion accessories from Thailand, Hong Kong, China, India and beyond. The fair can be found at the Impact Exhibition and Convention Centre, however please note that the first few days are for trade only.

www.biffandbil.com

room raiders The JJK travel team has just discovered a unique booking website that caters to discerning travellers from all over the world. Roomorama.com offers a colossal selection of unique places to stay, from ordinary houses to a cave (yes, really). The website specialises in renting out people’s apartments and houses all over the world for short stay purposes.

So, instead of stumping up for the antiseptic impersonality of a hotel, why not experience life as a local in the holiday destination of your choice? And fear not, as all the properties leased

by Roomorama have been rigorously screened by the site’s team to ensure the best customer experience. Prices start from US$ 30 per night, which is insanely cheap in this day and age! www.roomorama.com

MIDDLE EAST

ETIHAD EXCELS Etihad Airways has cleaned up once again at the prestigious World Travel Awards Middle East. The carrier was named the Middle East’s Leading Airline for the sixth year in a row at a glittering black-tie gala do in Dubai on May 6. The accolade was one of four awards won by the national airline of the United Arab Emirates, and Etihad was also recognised as the Middle East’s Leading Airline First Class, as well as for its Leading Airline Inflight Entertainment and Leading Cabin Staff. The World Travel Awards (WTA), described by the Wall Street Journal as the “travel industry’s equivalent to the Oscars” are voted for by passengers and travel agents from 160 countries. www.etihadairways.com

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australia

time for jazz, darlings If you’re visiting Sydney this month, don’t miss the unique and very wonderful Darling Harbour Jazz & Blues Festival. Held over the Queen’s Birthday Weekend, the festival takes place on the Sydney waterfront and will feature numerous performances from soloists to swing bands to gospel musicians. The music itself will range through jazz, swing, groove, New Orleans, gospel and blues, and there’ll also be a traditional jazz church service. The festival runs from June 9-11. www.darlingharbour.com

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SmallTalk [ professional golfer ]

lee westwood We sat down with Englishman and world-number-three professional golfer Lee Westwood, who recently defended his Indonesian Masters title

it became my job. I don’t really remember the point at which I made this transition. Maybe when I get a little bit older, the sport will become a hobby again and I’ll just head out onto a warm course somewhere with a cart and a beer.

Are your horses just a hobby or also a business venture?

LW They’re not a business venture.

If you’re going to set up shop in the horse business, then you’re likely to lose a lot of money. My horses are just a hobby and I don’t put a lot of money into them.

What do you do during your spare time?

LW I just like spending time with the kids, not doing anything specific.

I enjoy being at home, being a dad, taking them to school, tucking them in at night and doing their homework with them, because when you’re away a lot, these are the sort of things that you miss.

Why did you choose golf when you were good at other sports as well?

In your personal opinion, do you see any problems in the golfing world?

Lee Westwood I played rugby, cricket and football at school, as well as a lot of other team sports.

I prefer the individualism of golf though and the fact that the buck stops with me.

Whatever I do, it’s me that’s in control of my destiny and I can’t rely on anybody else. I have only myself to blame, which means that the sport can sometimes be frustrating.

LW The main problem with golf at the moment is that it takes too long.

The professionals, when we play at the masters, take five-and-a-halfhours to get around. We are kind of a showpiece for everyone else who enjoys playing golf and we are supposed to set a standard and show people how it’s done. But it takes nearly six hours to get it done!

The pace needs to pick up a little, starting with the professional game.

How would you describe golf in three words?

LW I have pretty much used the same clubs for 26 years now: Ping clubs. I did change to Iron for a while at one point but stuck with the same ball manufacturer. I try not to change too much in fact, as there are so many variables in golf that if you can keep something controllable or the same then that removes one of these variables. So at least I know that it’s not going to be my clubs or balls that let me down. –Deisha tamar

LW Frustrating, frustrating, frustrating!

What do you want to do when you retire from golfing?

LW I’d rather not think about retiring just yet. I started playing golf as a hobby and then 144

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The main problem with golf at the moment is that it takes too long. The professionals take five-and-ahalf-hours to get around.

How do you keep up with everevolving golf technology?

Ciputra Graha Intiland-Oke.indd 1

5/7/12 2:32 PM

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Afterthought

Lady Gaga’s bad romance with some of Indonesia’s more extremist elements might have come at the price of her first concert in Jakarta. But why is this even an issue in the first place?

A

t the time of writing this article, there is still no certainty about the fate of Lady Gaga’s Jakarta concert. Out of the blue, Gaga has been accused of being a devil worshipper and her famous Little Monsters – the name given to Gaga’s legions of fans – have been deemed immoral. Those opposed to her performing in Indonesia consist of the usual suspects: politicians whose careers rely heavily on hypocritical pronouncements and kneejerk jingoism, and hard-line extremist groups who have probably never even seen a single Gaga video clip. Those who support the Gaga Jakarta concert are also unsurprisingly made up of celebrities whose bank accounts depend on how far their fellow countrymen and women will go to satisfy their superficial cravings for pop culture.

I’m not a fan of Lady Gaga myself. To be completely honest, I don’t care for her at all. Her art isn’t my cup of tea and her music doesn’t appeal to me. However, I don’t agree with the immoral label that she, along with her art and her fans, is currently being tarred with. Why is she now suddenly a devil worshipper?

Is it because she sometimes looks like Marilyn Manson?

Was that meat dress the final nail in Gaga coffin?

The Gaga smears are a product of the same narrowmindedness that has been campaigning to ban miniskirts

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in the country.

It’s all a part of a reactionary idea that we Indonesians, as a nation, must be morally sound at all times.

What is so bad about going to a Gaga concert apart from having to endure her music? It’s nothing close to going to a strip club or a brothel, much as the naysayers would have us believe otherwise. A Gaga concert is more akin to a packed costume party at a gay club.

And is there anything slipperier and harder to define than the abstract notion of a nation’s morals? What do they really actually consist of?

Is it the music we listen to?

The fashions we follow?

The books we read?

What morals, I wonder, does someone from Cyprus have? And if your passport says Venezuela or South Africa, what set of moralistic boundaries are you expected to live within? If they manage to ban Lady Gaga from even setting foot on Indonesian soil, what message are we, Indonesians, conveying to the world? That we have good taste in music? That we don’t condone horriblydressed musicians? Or that

When did something as trivial as a pop concert become such a pressing national issue?

something as trivial as a pop concert become such a pressing national issue? The next presidential election is not until 2014, so it’s not yet time for politicians to blow up small pop-culture related issues into something more important than nationwide poverty and life-threatening health matters. If the concert really is cancelled, or if Gaga follows in the steps of Salman Rushdie, who cancelled his appearance at the Jaipur Literary Festival earlier this year for more-or-less similar reasons, will those who have opposed her visit declare this a triumph over evil? Meanwhile, thousands of little children still beg on the country’s streets and scores of corruptors still feign amnesia when they are stuck in the dock. Where is our sense of perspective my Little Monsters? -UNGGUL HERMANTO

corbis

poker disgrace

we simply refuse to tolerate tastes and views that differ from our own?

Recently, a friend of mine who is a Gaga fan came over to my apartment. I politely told him that I did not own any of her songs in my music collection, so we compromised by listening to Fleet Foxes. I learned, over drinks, that he was thinking about cancelling his plans to attend the concert because he feared that he wouldn’t be able to trust the Indonesian police to keep him and other fans safe throughout the event – attending a pop concert in Jakarta is seemingly now on a par with a war journalist entering Syria.

When did

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featuring

Arem Duplessis Design Director of the new York times magazine

Get the edGe. design basics & trends for Print & digital magazines in 2012 friday, 6 July 2012 148

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www.imm-creativeconference.com

indonesia creative conference