Berlin In Your Pocket by In Your Pocket

Maps

Restaurants

Cafés

Nightlife

Berlin February – March 2020

inyourpocket.com N°103 - €1.75

Sightseeing

Shopping

Events

Photo: Carolin Saage

Starting

February 2020 www.wintergarten-berlin.de Ticket-Hotline: 030 - 588 433 | Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

Contents

Arriving & Transport

Getting around by S&U

Basics

Essential travel tips

Berlin’s Districts

Galleries & Art

Our favourite exhibitions this winter

A glorious view towards the Bode Museum

Berlin Mitte

The delights of the city centre

Sports in Berlin 10 Work up a sweat this winter

Berlin Charlottenburg & The West

Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema

Berlin Friedrichshain

Berlin Prenzlauer Berg

Family fun

The gentrified north

Berlin Kreuzberg

SYMBOL KEY

Wellness 55

U Facilities for the disabled

Looking for luxury, relaxation and serenity?

V Home delivery

E Live music

N No credit cards

M Nearest S/U-Bahn station

Neukölln

B Outside seating

G Non-smoking room

S Take away

R Internet

W Wi-Fi Additional symbols for hotels

City Tours

Guided walks

Directory & Street register

A Credit cards accepted

Maps & Index

L Guarded parking

H Conference facilities

F Fitness centre

K Restaurant

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

City map Public transport map Index

€ Cheap; less than €10 per person.

Find out why it’s being called Kreuzkölln

P Air conditioning

Dinner price guide The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level based on a main course with a glass of wine.

Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters

T Child friendly

€€ Middling; from €10-20 per person.

Worker’s paradise, student’s playground

Valentine’s Day in Berlin

€€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person.

Genteel western Berlin

Culture & Events 12

€€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person.

60 61-63 64-65 66

BERLIN BOXES Scattered throughout the guide you’ll find boxes with more information about these topics: Berlin in Books Erasmus Student Network Food with a View Museum Insel

8 6 26 29 February – March 2020

Foreword Almost there guys, almost there. Not long now before the coats can go back into the cupboards, the hat, scarves and gloves can be thrown into a box somewhere and neglected until November returns. Winter is almost over, and while Berlin is a marvel in the winter months we aren’t going to deny that we’re ready for a bit of sun and spring. February and March are two of the most exciting months in the German capital, and we’re not just talking about the gushing romance of Valentine’s Day. We are talking about that to a degree, so head to page 19 to see how we advise spending that evening. If Valentine’s Days have been replaced by, you know, the fruits of that romantic labour, we’ve also put together a list of ways to enjoy Berlin with all the family. Berlinale, ITB Berlin, the derby, a new Wintergarten show, it is all going on. The first of those two are extremely well documented, but the match between Hertha and Union throws up a number of curiosities. Bundesliga Berlin derby matches have been rare breeds over the years (this will be only the sixth), and for the first time in IYP’s life we might have a battle for capital supremacy on our hands. We’ve given a little insight to the history of the match over on page 16. All that and plenty more, your usual coverage of Berlin’s best restaurants, bars, cafes, clubs, galleries, museums, statues, Mandela exhibitions, shopping centres and all the rest. We’ll be back in April for Berlin IYP 104, along with improved temperatures and the beginning of trying to work out if its warm enough for the beer garden. Get in touch if you’ve got any advice, recommendations, feedback or the rest, through the usual channels.

Europe’s largest publisher of locally produced city guides PRINT All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

Publisher In Your Pocket GmbH Axel-Springer-Straße 39 10969 Berlin Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81 Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50 germany@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1611-9037 Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin. Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly The public transport map is used under license no. BVG-021.18 Editorial Editor John William Bills Writers Jeroen van Marle, Sarah Wiersdorf Research Isabela Hellgren; Layout Tomáš Haman Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG) Maps Kartographie Eichner Cover © osthafenimages Sales & Circulation General Manager Stephan Krämer Production Manager Philippe Krüger Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt Advertising Managers CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de) Copyright notice & Editor’s note Text, photos and maps (unless otherwise stated) copyright In Your Pocket GmbH. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Arrival & Transport Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great empty vastness of northeast Germany, it’s very well connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn and air. Once in Berlin, you’ll wish that your home town had such good public transport.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Berlin’s integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn, underground trains), bus, and Straßenbahn (trams) run by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just remember the number or colour and end station of the line you want to use, and you’ll be navigating the labyrinth-like stations like a local. Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights, with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights. Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train services. Vending machines have instructions in English and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlin’s AB travel zone contains nearly everything; you’ll only need an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport. With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone €2,90, ABC €3,60) you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited transfers; it’s cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier-Fahrten-Karte, €9). Buy a €1,90 Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket if you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid until 03:00 the next morning; €8,60) or the seven-day pass (€34,00). Groups of up to five people are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket, €23,40). The multiday Berlin Welcomecard (€23-52,00) is valid for transport and some attractions. Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket you’ll be fined €60 on the spot. BVG The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at www.bvg. de/en/Service.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, www.bvg.de/en.

TAXIS Berlin’s friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can be called or hailed on the street. They can also be found queing at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots. Not all taxis accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices are the same day and night; flagfall plus the first kilometre is €3,40; then up to 7km it’s €1,79/km, thereafter €1,28/km. Waiting costs €25/ hr. For short hops hail a taxi already driving in the direction

you need to go and immediately ask for the Kurzfahrstrecke tarriff; €4 for 2km. By the way, Funk means radio. CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de. FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26, www.taxifunkberlin.de. TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de. WBT FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26, www.funk-taxi-berlin.de. WÜRFEL-FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 01 01, www.wuerfelfunk.de.

CYCLING As long as it’s dry, getting around Berlin is really best done by bicycle. It’s a flat city, there are plenty of cycle paths and wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you fined, even though everyone does it. Cycling across town may take a while, though for €1,60 you can take your bike on an S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental places, most charging €10-12 per day. The urban bike trip planner www.bbbike.de can suggest low-traffic and cobblestone-free routes across Berlin.

CITY CARDS Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning to travel around town a lot and see more than one museum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students and youths may get better reductions at museums using their student ID cards. BERLIN WELCOMECARD The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat tours, etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes Potsdam and Schönefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48 hours (AB €23 / ABC €28), 72 hours (€33/38), and 4 (€40/45), 5 (€46/49) or 6 days (€49/52). There’s also a 72-hour variety (€51/52) that includes free admission to 5 museums on the Berlin museum island in Berlin Mitte. Cards are sold online and from BVG ticket machines, tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels and kiosks. The similar Berlin CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.com) is a little cheaper, with restaurant, bar and club discounts geared towards younger travellers; a 48-hour ticket costs €19,90 for AB, €22,90 for ABC, and there are also 72 hours, 4, 5, and 6-day tickets.Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de. MUSEUM PASS BERLIN Over 30 museums, including the permanent collections of the Staatliche Museen (state museums) and the Museum Island (UNESCO World Heritage Site), can be visited with the Berlin Museum Pass (€29/14,50, valid three days). It’s for sale at the museums, tourism offices and online. Qwww.visitberlin.de/en/museum-pass-berlin. February – March 2020

Basics BASIC DATA

Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately Berlin’s local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weiße, is only really palatable ‘mit Schuss’, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (‘kloob mah-tea’) ice tea, made with extract of the South American maté plant, caffeine and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to just below the top label and top it up with wodka).

CRIME & SAFETY Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty crimes are low compared to other Western European capitals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walking in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom occur in Berlin’s touristed central areas.

ELECTRICITY Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and many hotels will have them at the front desk too.

ERASMUS STUDENT NETWORK How do international students get to meet locals and the city during an academic exchange? The best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network (ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student associations in Europe. It was developed to help internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36 countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam. 6 Berlin In Your Pocket

MONEY Germany uses the euro (€). Banknotes come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins, whose design depends on in which country they were minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents and €1 and €2. Credit and debit card payment is possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife venues, though always have cash on you for small payments just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process. Exchange offices can be found at the major train stations.

VISAS AND ENTRY FORMALITIES EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though registration at a Bürgeramt office is officially required for stays more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90 days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply for a German visa in advance. Note that there’s no passport control between Germany and the other 14 European ‘Schengen’ countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.

CLIMATE 30

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5 0

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Get yourself to the Dome of the Reichstag, incredible views and no small amount of symbolism © conceptualmotion

Population: Germany: 82.79 mil.; Berlin: 3.748 mil. Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km. The Spree is 403km. Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m Highest natural point of Berlin: Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m Berlin’s territory: 900 square kilometers

20 Jan

Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul

Aug

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Nov Dec

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10 0

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Berlin’s Districts Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, you’re still left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners often find everything they need. Public transportation is far-reaching and effective though, and you’ll grow to love it as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights: Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg.

MITTE (MI) Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the German History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum Island, Berliner Dom, and the abandoned East German Parliament building make for more talk, less walk tours. The architecturally humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel, whose layout looks as if 17th-century planners got interrupted during a game of pick-up sticks. It’s on these streets that the casually chic saunter from courtyard gallery to sidewalk café, pointing out directions to tourists seeking out the latest hotspots or traces of the Jewish community that lived here from the late 17th-century until the mass deportations of the Nazi era.

CHARLOTTENBURG (CB) If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets, crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin. Much of what was here was bombed in the war and built anew in the 1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where Kufürstendamm, Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and Tauentzienstr. come together. Follow what becomes an increasingly silken ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting becomes more genteel where you can’t see the buildings for the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I.

TIERGARTEN (TG) Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare park that began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a dosey-doe around the Siegessäule (Victory Column). Slicing though the park’s length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to the Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are the museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl.

KREUZBERG (KB) Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off

Yet another picture perfect shot of the Spree at sunset © elxeneize

room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987 social and economic frustration exploded into violence and vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May 1st is essentially Kreuzberg’s way of reliving its 15 minutes of fame. The rest of the days are marked by backgammon at the men’s clubs, café-sitting on the Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular drags Oranienstr. and Bergmannstr. Two major museums, the House at Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum, are planted in the staid parts of the district.

PRENZLAUER BERG (PB) On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old working-class district in the former East Berlin that came through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and along Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.). Prenzlauer Berg’s few attractions include the Vitra Design museum and a 19th-century brewery complex that is now the Kulturbrauerei culture centre. A good time to visit is Saturday when the eco-market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or Sunday when everyone sits outside being cool and eating breakfast all day.

FURTHER AFIELD Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife scene are Schöneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of Zehlendorf (ZD). February – March 2020

Galleries & Art GALLERIES Berlin’s museum and gallery world is constantly in flux, and perhaps now more than ever. Several large museums are closed for lengthy renovations that will last until the end of the decade, and the contemporary art scene is on the move, with artists fleeing the rising rents in the Mitte district for atelier space in outlying districts and galleries regrouping in new cultural nodes like Potsdamer Strasse. On this page we highlight a few of Berlin’s many excellent galleries and exhibitions.

Mimi the Clown and Ziggy Stardust © simoberlin

BERLIN IN BOOKS: BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ When convicted murderer Franz Biberkopf is released from Berlin’s Tegel prison, he’s determined to become a respectable citizen and behave well, this time. Unfortunately, after initial success in keeping clean, fate intervenes, and the temptations and pitfalls of the rough area around Alexanderplatz soon entangle Biberkopf, dragging him down. Alfred Döblin’s legendary novel from 1929 is perhaps the best novel about Berlin and the ill-fated Weimar Republic, and is particularly hard to render in English, with its use of local Berlinerisch vernacular. Now wonderfully translated for the first time in almost 90 years by award-winning poet and translator Michael Hoffman, the novel is finally made truly accessible to English speakers, with sparkling conversations and memorable insights into the workings of the humans inhabiting Berlin. “Berlin Alexanderplatz” (2018, New York Review Books Classics, ISBN 9781681371993) by Alfred Döblin, translation by Michael Hofmann, is for sale online and at major bookshops for €18. 8 Berlin In Your Pocket

BAUHAUS ARCHIV Has it really been a century? The Staatliches Bauhaus celebrates its centenary in 2019 and what better way to celebrate a century of pushing artistic boundaries than by doing more of the same? The school itself only existed for 14 years, but its legacy and influence is undeniable. That legacy and influence are to be celebrated with a plethora of events all across the country, all of which will continue the school’s proud tradition of art and craftsmanship. Head to the official website for the full schedule.QD‑4, Klingelhöferstraße 14, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 254 00 20, www.bauhaus.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission €7/4, Wed-Fri €6/3. C/O BERLIN Recently rehoused in the historical Amerika-Haus near Zoologischer Garten, the C/O gallery presents changing exhibitions of fantastic photography. The current exhibitions of protest photos by Gordon Parks and conflict photography by Broomberg & Chanarin are well worth seeing.QHardenbergstr. 22-24, tel. +49 30 284 44 16 62, www.co-berlin.org. EAST SIDE GALLERY At 1,3 km, this free open-air ‘gallery’ is the longest remaining original stretch of Wall in Berlin. The ‘East Side’ started out as a favourite haunt of graffiti artists in 1990 (note that the paintings are on the eastern, formerly deadly side of the Wall), and has since become a magnet for tourists as well as an important cultural landmark. Many of the original artworks have recently been re-painted by artists from all over the world. There are plenty of places to stop for refreshment along the banks of the river Spree as you explore over 100 compelling works of art.QMühlenstr., www.eastsidegallery.com SLOW PHOTOGRAPHY BERLIN Ukrainian artist Oleg Farynyuk photographs subjects using old techniques, especially the wetplate method which was invented in 1851 and was the first time photos could be shot with short exposure times. At the gallery and shop you can view the resulting high-quality photos, and have one made.QSlow Photography Berlin, Christinenstr. 15, tel. +49 152 17 55 00 74, www.slow-photography-berlin.com. berlin.inyourpocket.com

Galleries & Art EXHIBITIONS ACCESS TO SECRECY - PERMANENT EXHIBITION

How did the Stasi store, analyse and use the information it gathered about individuals? “Access to Secrecy” is the first exhibition to present the foundations and content of the GDR secret police archive. Using “walk-in” files, interactive media stations and original objects, it makes it possible to experience the Stasi Records Archive at the historic site. Tours of the exhibition, including a glimpse into the archive, and special project days for school groups are offered regularly.QStasi Museum, Ruschestraße 103, Haus 7, Lichtenberg, MU Magdalenenstraße, tel. +49 30 23 24 66 99, www.einblick-ins-geheime.de. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00. Admission free.

Nicolas Deshayes, Thames Water, Installation view, 2016

crisis with new renewable energy, creating a radiator through art, to exploring sustainable production in architecture, Kunststrom is for all those looking to see the world through an optimistic eye, ready for change. Qwww.kunststrom.com. Every Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun.

GROPIUS BAU

Access to Secrecy

UNTIL 04.06.2020 » BETTINA POUSTTCHI

Be prepared for a unique combination between sculpture, photography, architecture, history and reality in this exhibition of Bettina Pousttchi works. She explores so many different ideas, from exploring the connection between memory and history to showing perceptions of reality in our new digital age. Her works often require entire walls to express. She also transforms everyday street furniture into artworks to show how her own interests and turn the ordinary into something really special. As local German-Iranian artist with a transnational perspective, Pousttchi’s ability to change a space will be sure to impress. QG‑4, Berlinische Galerie, Alte Jakobstraße 124-128, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 78 90 26 00, €12, free admission under, www.berlinischegalerie.de. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Tue.

UNTIL 28.03.2020 » KUNSTSTROM

Kunststrom is an exhibition with a purpose against the backdrop of the old coal mine building E-Werk just 30 minutes south of Berlin. Kunststrom brings the works of 11 international artists to combat the nihilism that we are surrounded by today with a interdisciplinary program of commissions, exhibitions, performances and events. These artists show that art can be found in the most unusual places. From combatting our energy

Akinbode Akinbiyi, Bar Beach, Victoria Island, From the series Sea Never Dry © Courtesy by the artist

07.02 - 17.05 » SIX SONGS, SWIRLING GRACEFULLY IN TAUT AIR

What a delightful title. ‘Six Songs, Swirling Gracefully in Taut Air’ is a photography exhibition featuring the work of Berlin-based Nigerian photographer Akinbode Akinbiyi, showcasing the ordinary lives of people living in communities across the world, focused on cities including Lagos, Bamako and Berlin. The Black and white pictures are just about as tender as it gets. QF‑4, Martin-Gropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60. Closed Tue. February – March 2020

Sports in Berlin viewing festivals during major sports events abroad, and the city also hosts countless amateur sports matches. The home matches of Berlin’s pro teams are easy to visit: you don’t need to understand German to be able to follow a match and unlike in other European countries, sports matches in Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning it’s no problem to bring the whole family to the stadium for an afternoon or evening of fun.

Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports – the city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing five exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union, the Eisbären, Alba, Füchse and the BR Volleys. Home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlin’s stadiums; every season over two million tickets are sold. In addition, Berlin’s streets regularly host huge sports events such as the public ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL) Also known as the Albatrosse, Berlin’s basketball club is Germany’s most successful, and has the largest fanbase; home matches easily attract 10,000 spectators. Since going pro in 1991, Alba has won the German League eight times and the German Cup seven times. Alba Berlin’s wait for another Bundesliga goes on, with another runner’s up spot secured in 2018/19. That heartbreak was overshadowed by the team’s historic run to the final of the EuroCup, where Alba fell short against Valencia in a three-game series. A miserable run of winter results has left the club down in 16th place in the Euro League, while they remain 3rd in the Bundesliga. There is also the small matter of the BBL-Pokal final, a big game against EWE Baskets on February 16. QI‑4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (MercedesBenz-Arena), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets €8-65. 09.02 15:00 » v. BG GÖTTINGEN 16.02 20:30 » v. EWE Baskets Oldenburg 27.02 20:00 » v. Anadolu Efes Istanbul 01.03 15:00 » v. Brose Bamberg 04.03 20:00 » v. FC Barcelona 14.03 18:00 » v. Löwen Braunschweig 19.03 20:00 » v. Panathinaikos Athen 26.03 20:00 » v. Valencia Basket 10 Berlin In Your Pocket

Finding out about which matches are playing where can be problematic for visitors however, as websites are not all available in English, and some make it difficult to find the upcoming playing dates. In the club details here we have listed all home matches for the following months, though always keep an eye on the club websites for changes or additional matches. Berlin’s official English-language sports website www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information about all the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site www.eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches. The various seasons get underway at this time of year, with middling starts for the various teams so far. One team that has started well is the city’s handball team, the mighty Füchse Berlin, and early season promise has got us dreaming of some silverware after a barren few years. The Foxes have some big home games coming up and every ounce of support is appreciated, so get yourselves to the arena. FÜCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL) The Foxes, Berlin’s handball team, is part of an old West Berlin sports club, and now plays home matches in Prenzlauer Berg’s MaxSchmelling-Halle. Füchse Berlin’s search for a first Bundesliga goes on. The Foxes finished last season in 6th position, failing to qualify for Europe for the first time in four years. That might be disappointing, but the lack of extra fixtures could prove a bonus for the team. The team remain in touching distance of the top as the 2019/20 season reaches the nitty gritty, but inconsistency continues to blight the dreams of the Foxes. Will we stop dreaming? Of course not, don’t be silly now. QG‑1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 30 44 30, www. fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets €12-50. 13.02 19:00 » v. Grundfos Tatabanya KC 16.02 14:05 » v. SC Magdeburg 27.02 19:00 » v. HSG Nordhorn-Lingen 01.03 16:00 » v. BM Logrono La Rioja 08.03 16:00 » v. SG Flensburg-Handewitt 19.03 19:00 » v. PAUC Handball 26.03 19:00 » v. FRISCH AUF! Göppingen berlin.inyourpocket.com

Sports in Berlin HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)

Berlin’s main football team plays home matches at the impressive Olympiastadion, Germany’s second largest stadium, built for the 1936 Olympic Games and renovated for the 2006 World Cup. Founded back in 1892 the team is known as the Alte Dame, the old lady. Its most successful years were between 1926 and 1931, although Hertha did make the semi-finals of the UEFA Cup in 1979. Shortly after however, dark times hit the club, who spent much of the 1980s and early 1990s in the second division. Back in the Bundesliga this time since 2012 they now look set to stay. An unbeaten run through December saw Hertha create some daylight between themselves and the bottom two, although a resounding 4-0 thumping against Bayern put paid to that. February and March are going to be big for the club, with the derby a particularly tantalising prospect. Kids under the age of 14 are eligible for free tickets to home games, so check out our feature over at our website.QOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion), Charlottenburg, MS Olympiastadion, tel. +49 1805 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets €15-89, all kids under 14 have free entrance. 08.02 15:30 » v. 1. FSV Mainz 05 22.02 15:30 » v. 1FC Köln 07.03 15:30 » v. Werder Bremen 21.03 18:30 » v. Union Berlin

BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL) Berlin’s professional volleyball team originates in the western district of Charlottenburg, but plays home matches at the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR Volleys have been particularly successful since the late 1990s. Lightning struck twice for the Volleys in 2018/19, overcoming a poor start to the season to sweep into the playoffs and eventual Bundesliga victory, defeating regular season table-toppers Friedrichshafen in five games in the final. Will a fifth title in a row come in 2019/20? Can they make it seven titles in eight seasons? The Volleys have a healthy lead at the top of the league as we enter a crucial stage of the season, although the fat lady may well be warming up her voice already. QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12, www.berlin-recycling-volleys.de. Tickets €13-16. 05.02 19:30 » v. WWK Volleys Herrsching 15.03 16:30 » v. VfB Friedrichshafen

FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL) Nicknamed Eisern Union (Iron Union), FC Union is traditionally the working man’s Berlin team, originating in East Berlin in 1966 and often a counterweight to the GDR’s stateinfluenced (and very much unloved) Dynamo club. Union is still fiercely independent, based in a charming stadium, An der Alten Försterei. The club has resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem sung by punk legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium partly owned by passionate fans. Tours of the stadium are available and whole-heartedly encouraged, to see what German fan culture really is all about. The team’s form dipped a little over the winter but the Bundesliga newcomers remain handily placed in mid table, with an eight point buffer from the relegation zone. There is also the small matter of the Berlin derby towards the end of March. QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten Försterei), Köpenick, MS Köpenick, tel. +49 30 656 68 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets €12-43. 15.02 15:30 » v. Leverkusen 01.03 13:30 » v. Vfl Wolfsburg 14.03 18:30 » v. Bayern München

EISBÄREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY) Originating in 1954 in East Germany’s Dynamo sports club, the ‘polar bears’ are Berlin’s popular professional ice hockey team. They won the national league 7 times, have also bagged the European Trophy. Their home matches at the Mercedes-Benz Arena are true family fests, with a festive, good-humoured atmosphere. Last season was a disappointing one for the Polar Bears, a 9th place finish in the regular season leading to an eventual quarter-final defeat to eventual runners-up EHC Red Bull München. The team haven’t won the Bundesliga since 2012/13. The team are unbeaten in three heading into February and find themselves in fourth position, but there are some big games coming up against equally strong teams. An important time in the season, to say the least. QI‑4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz Arena), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 97 18 40 40, www. eisbaeren.de. Tickets €14-45. 16.02 13:15 » v. Adler Mannheim 18.02 19:30 » v. Iserlohn Roosters 28.02 19:30 » v. Düsseldorfer EG 03.03 19:30 » v. Schwenninger Wild Wings 08.03 14:00 » v. Fischtown Pinguins Bremerhaven February – March 2020 11

Culture & Events WINTERGARTEN

BALLET & DANCE 14.03 19:30, 17.03 19:30, 22.03 15:00, 27.03 19:30 » SWAN LAKE

With a spellbound swan princess and a prince at odds with himself, Swan Lake is classical ballet at its best. While this beloved fairy tale has been transformed into mesmerizing dance scenes many times, Patrice Bart’s production is based on the traditional choreography of the swan formations, and gives the characters a new psychological depth. In this way, the myth of Swan Lake receives a careful reinterpretation. Odette is danced by Iana Salenko, Siegfried by Dinu Tamazlacaru.QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €20-100, www. deutscheoperberlin.de.

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 10.02 - 18.03 » KONZERTHAUSORCHESTER BERLIN, ESPRESSO CONCERT

This is exactly the sort of thing we’re interested in. A little bit of classical magic with your afternoon espresso? Yes please, yes please indeed. You might even see some of the next generation of musical geniuses in the process. QF‑3, Konzerthaus Berlin, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, €8, www.konzerthaus.de. Every Wednesday. Wintergarten Varieté 20 20 Kashka (c) visual-writer-1

14.02 - 11.06 » 20 20 — THE TWENTIES VARIETY REVUE

The ‘20s are finally upon us! We’re not sure how you feel about the interminable passing of time but there is something delightfully glamorous about the idea of living in the ‘20s — especially in Berlin. The Wintergarten knows this (of course the Wintergarten knows this) and has lined up a suitably decadent show, titled ’20 20 – The Twenties Variety Revue’. The 1920s were a heady time to be in Berlin and that excitement will be reimagined and funnelled through a modern lens, as the viewing public of today go in search of ever new frivolous sensations. The whole thing kicks off on February 11. QE‑4, Wintergarten Variété, Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, From €32, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Closed Mon, Tue.

ASK THE CONCIERGE Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you about current events, book tickets, make restaurant reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels of their jackets. 12 Berlin In Your Pocket

12.02 - 15.02 » BERLINER PHILHARMONIKER - KIRILL PETRENKO

Totally sold out, this one. No tickets left. Nada. Zilch. Zero. And that is exactly how a world class performer should be treated, so here’s to Kirill Petrenko. The Russian-born champion is the chief composer in these parts, so Rachmaninov, Stravinsky and Zimmerman are in safe hands. QE‑4, Berliner Philharmonie, Herbertvon-Karajan-Straße 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 (0)30 25 48 80, www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de.

25.02 - 01.03 » KONZERTHAUSORCHESTER BERLIN, CHRISTOPH ESCHENBACH

80 years old, that is quite the achievement. Kudos to you, Christoph Eschenbach. The great man will celebrate that landmark with a series of special concerts running from the end of February to the very beginning of March. As in March 1, the literal beginning of March. QF‑3, Konzerthaus Berlin, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, € 30 - 84, www.konzerthaus.de.

27.02 - 29.02 » BERLINER PHILHARMONIKER - YANNICK NÉZETSÉGUIN AND ELĪNA GARANČA

Mahler’s Third Symphony never sounded so glorious. Yannick Nézet-Séguin and Elīna Garanča take the reigns for this one, and those in attendance are in for a wonderful treat. Never has February’s extra day looked so enticing. QE‑4, berlin.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Berliner Philharmonie, Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 (0)30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

12.03 - 14.03 » BERLINER PHILHARMONIKER - SIMON RATTLE

Liverpool-born conductor Simon Rattle is ready and waiting to impress the beautiful people, with what will surely be a stirring rendition of Bartók’s Concerto for Orchestra. That was one of the most important pieces of 20th century classical music, so no pressure buddy. QE‑4, Berliner Philharmonie, Herbert-vonKarajan-Straße 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 (0)30 25 48 80, €35 - 98, www.berlinerphilharmoniker.de.

EXHIBITIONS PERMANENT EXHIBITION » REVOLUTION AND FALL OF THE BERLIN WALL

Few moments in history stick in the mind with quite as much meaning as the fall of the Berlin Wall. It was the end of one world, the beginning of another, the final dying embers of communism giving way to a new era of freedom, or something along those lines. This open-air exhibition on the site of the former Stasi headquarters is especially poignant, as it focuses on those East Germans who defended themselves and their freedom in the face of totalitarianism. This exhibition features a huge range of photographs, posters and documents, along with many films, telling the tale of that fateful time. An audio guide is available at the visitors centre to accompany visitors through the exhibition.QStasi Museum, Ruschestraße 103, Haus 1, Lichtenberg, MU Magdalenenstraße, tel. +49 30 553 68 54, www.revolution89.de.

07.12 - 29.02 » CHRISTOPHER WILLIAMS

There is a whole lot more to photography than simply taking pictures, and few artists understand this as succinctly as Christopher Williams. This fascinating exhibition aims to examine the use of imagery in the late capitalist state, to try and pull back the mask and work out just what it is that makes an image, to dig deeper than pure aesthetics. Portraiture, street photography, still life and all the rest are put under this particularly special microscope. Qwww.co-berlin.org.

OPERA 08.02, 13.03, 03.04 19:30 » THE MAGIC FLUTE

If you’re looking to get the young ones into some high culture, ‘The Magic Flute’ is just what you’re after. This was Mozart’s final opera, premiering just a couple of months before the legend’s premature death.QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €20-86, www. deutscheoperberlin.de.

BERLINALE FILM FESTIVAL One of the world’s great film festivals, the Berlinale returns in 2020 with plenty on its plate. The 70th edition of the famous festival promises to be one of the best yet, with an impressive variety of films scheduled alongside appearances from some of the biggest names in world cinema. Around 400 films will be screened over the festival’s 10 days, as tens of thousands of cinema lovers converge on the famous city in search of new and old heroes alike. The festival takes place in some 30 venues around the city, taking over Berlin’s famous cinemas and theatres alike, as some of the most prestigious awards in film are won and lost. The variety of the schedule is one of the Berlinale’s strongest points, with everything from local to international cinema embraced, along with movies put together by the youngest members of the artistic world. Every genre is found here. Tickets are available three days out from a screening, although don’t expect to be able to rock up on the day and enjoy a film. It pays to be organised when it comes to the Berlinale, so keep an eye on the official website and get your tickets purchased sooner rather than later. Also be aware that English does not reign supreme here, and not everything will be in English or come with English subtitles. Best again to keep an eye on the official site, or pick up the official programme booklet for the full details. The festival opens on February 20 and closes on March 1. Head to www.berlinale.de for the full story.

23.02 15:00, 29.02 18:00, 06.03 18:00 » LE PROPHÈTE

Giacomo Meyerbeer’s epic (four and a half hours) and rarely performed opera. Jean de Leyden is played by Gregory Kunde, Enrique Mazzola conducts.QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €39-170, www. deutscheoperberlin.de.

28.02, 05.03 19:30 » THE BARBER OF SEVILLE

Also known as ‘The Useless Precaution’, Rossini’s masterpiece is a true piece of genius when it comes to comedy in opera.QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €22-100, www.deutscheoperberlin.de. February – March 2020 13

Culture & Events DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM

15.03 15:00, 20.03 19:30 » LA TRAVIATA

Performed in Italian (with English and German subtitles), La Traviata continues to swoon audiences all around the world. Family Performance on Friday the 27th September. QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €24-100, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

28.03 19:30, 05.04 18:00 » AIDA

Verdi’s masterpiece, with Tatiana Serjan taking the title role.QB‑3, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, €39-128, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS 10.02 » EFTERKLANG DHM

PERMANENT EXHIBITION GERMAN HISTORY FROM THE MIDDLE AGES TO THE FALL OF THE BERLIN WALL

Are you ready for some history? This permanent exhibition at the DHM takes the visitor on a tour of this most historic country, a fantastic yet sensitive look at more than a millennia of history. Two floors of artefacts are waiting, the first of which covers everything from the Middle Ages until the the end of World War I, which tells you how much happened in the 20th century, but lets not wash over that first collection. The Middle Ages, the Reformation, the German Empire, World War I; that is a heck of a lot of history. The ground floor covers the Nazi regime and the post-war period, arguably the most intensely documented period in modern history. More than 7,000 exhibits shed light on all of this, a stunning exhibition focused on political history shaped by human beings, both in power and out.Qwww.dhm.de.

You know where you stand with Efterklang. The Danish heroes are now six albums into a critically-acclaimed career, proving once and for all that gloom can indeed be beautiful. Efterklang play Admiralspalast on February 10. QF‑3, Admiralspalast, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, €47.25, www.efterklang.net.

VIVID: GRAND SHOW

VIVID

UNTIL JUNE 2020 » VIVID: GRAND SHOW

DHM

14 Berlin In Your Pocket

Prepare to have your mind well and truly blown. A true celebration of life, VIVID tells the story of young R’eye, separated from her family and transformed into something not quite human and faced with a world that doesn’t make sense. This is a story of a search for freedom and having the strength to dance to the beat of a different drum, but there is so much more to it than that. Featuring over 100 incredible artists in a variety of costumes that really need to be seen to be believed, this is a true explosion of colour and creative magnificence. An international team stretching from Berlin to Melbourne has worked day and night to put this show together, a coruscating extravaganza that asks the question — who can you be?QF‑3, Friedrichstadt-Palast, Friedrichstraße 107, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 27, from €19.80, www.palast.berlin/en. berlin.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 12.02 » THE DARKNESS

We don’t care what you want to say in response, ‘Get Your Hands Off My Woman’ remains a genuine rock classic. Justin Hawkins and co were the biggest thing on the planet for a short while at the beginning of the century but have fallen off the radar since, make of that what you will. The live show remains a whole heap of fun. QKulturbrauerei - Kesselhaus, Schönhauser Allee 36, MEberswalder Strasse, tel. 030 - 44 31 51 00, €41.95, www.thedarknesslive.com.

DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM

14.02 18:30 » NAPALM DEATH

We once had a chat with the guitarist of Napalm Death before boarding a flight to Prague. He was taking his pedalboard through security, and told us that it was more valuable to a live band than any guitar. It made a lot of sense, still does. Anyway, forget Sabbath, Napalm Death are the finest musical export that England’s West Midlands has ever given the world. The band are playing Berlin on Valentine’s Day 2020, which is absolutely perfect. QAstra Kulturhaus, Revaler Straße 99, tel. +49 (0)30 200 567 67, €28.70, www.napalmdeath.org.

17.02 » SLIPKNOT

The glory days of IOWA might feel like a lifetime ago now, but there remains plenty of excitement in watching Slipknot do their thing in front of an adoring crowd. Magic. Also, keep an eye out for nu metal podcast ‘Podcasts + Sh*t’. Excellent stuff. QI‑4, Mercedes-Benz Arena, Mercedes Platz 1, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strasse, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88 99, www.slipknot1.com.

17.02 » TENACIOUS D

True story — a close friend of Berlin IYP once told Kyle Gass that he was the ‘best guitarist in the universe’. Accurate or not, Jack Black and KG are all sorts of entertaining and we expect a fabulous night at the Stadthalle.QG‑1, MaxSchmeling Halle, Falkplatz 1, MU Erberswalde Strasse, €62.15, www.tenaciousd.com.

The Discovery of America. An Amusing Book for Children and Young People © Deutsches Historisches Museum/ S. Ahlers

21.11 - 19.04 » HUMBOLDT

Two of Berlin’s finest finally get a major showcase of their own. Alexander and Wilhelm von Humboldt were two immense German intellectuals of the 19th century, but their lives and stories existed somewhat in contradiction of their time. This exhibition explores their lives through the ideas of that curious period, examining the fragile balance between knowledge and power while detailing the achievements and legacy of the brothers. The exhibition is open late on Thursdays (until 20:00) and is also entirely free on March 8, so you have absolutely no excuse not to explore the lives of two iconic Germany polymaths.QF‑3, Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40.

19.02 20:00 » MARY KOMASA

A Polish singer songwriter who is starting to garner some much deserved attention, Mary Komasa plays Berlin on February 19. Komasa comes from creative stock, and those genes have been passed on in delightful fashion. QI‑3/4, Berghain, Am Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 29 36 02 10, www.marykomasa. net.

20.02 » STORMZY

Undoubtedly one of the most important British musicians of an entire generation, the ultra-honest words of Stormzy are needed more than ever, as that godforsaken island cuts itself off from the rest of this magnificent continent. We’ll see you at the Berlin show on February 20. QColumbiahalle, Columbiadamm 13-21, MU Platz der Luftbrucke, €38.55, www.stormzy.com.

Silver coin

February – March 2020 15

Culture & Events 21.02 » A WINGED VICTORY FOR THE SULLEN

THE BERLIN DERBY

One of our favourite, favourite, favourite, favourite musical entities on the planet, A Winged Victory for the Sullen get frequent rotation in Berlin IYP headquarters. Their third studio album came out in 2019 and it is every bit as beautiful as you presume. On February 21, the Funkhaus is the only place to be. Q€26.40.

25.02 » POLIÇA

Olympiastadion

21.03 18:30 » THE BERLIN DERBY

There’s something about a big city football derby. As the game lurches ever closer to business-obsessed disaster it is the thrill of the derby that keeps the spirit alive, the obsession of fans desperate for bragging rights in work, at school, in the pub and elsewhere. This is real football — just ask fans in Manchester, Milan, Belgrade, Glasgow and the rest. On March 21, Hertha and Union Berlin will do battle for the second time this season, but there is more to the capital city derby than meets the eye, and as usual it is steeped in the Cold War years. When they were promoted last season, Union became the fifth team from Berlin to make it to the Bundesliga — more than any other city — yet the November match against Hertha was only the fifth Berlin derby in Bundesliga history. What’s more, it was actually the first match to feature teams from West and East Berlin going against each other. Hertha are far and away Berlin’s most successful football club, appearing in 36 Bundesliga seasons. This becomes even more eye-catching when you take into account that no other Berlin club has managed more than two seasons. Union look well set to survive into a second season though, and will be looking to push on and establish themselves in the top flight, as opposed to fading away into obscurity like Tasmania 1900 Berlin, Blau-Weiß Berlin and Tennis Borussia Berlin before them. Hertha and Union are both clubs that represent Berlin, but history has kept them divided. The rivalry was once a friendship. Hertha fans would frequently travel to Union home games, where the Stadion An der Alten Försterei became something of an impromptu protest spot, and Union fans would bulk up Hertha’s support when Die Alte Dame played continental games in Eastern Europe. The teams played their first game against each other in 28 years just two months after the fall of the Wall, and subsequently went out for dinner together after the game. The friendliness has since been replaced by bickering and a desire for bragging rights, making the upcoming derby a potentially spicy affair. Union won the first game 1-0, will Hertha pick up revenge at the Olympiastadion? We’ll have to wait and see. QOlympiastadion, Olympischer Platz 3, tel. +49(0) 30 306 88-100. 16 Berlin In Your Pocket

Now onto their 5th album (‘When We Stay Alive’ was released in late January), Poliça are one of the finest synth-pop bands on the planet. ‘Abouter’ remains one of our favourite album openers, ever. Get yourself to the Columbia Theater on February 25. QColumbia Theater, Columbiadamm 9-11, €23.70, www.thisispolica.com.

14.03 » ZDRAVKO ČOLIĆ

Born in the beautiful city of Sarajevo, Zdravko Čolić was a star before the break up of Yugoslavia and has become an even bigger star in the decades since. They call him the

WELLENWERK BERLIN

Wellenwerk, Valeska Schneider

WELLENWERK BERLIN (SURFING IN BERLIN) Surfing in Berlin might sound like a wild dream, but dreams often come true. Born out of a winter’s trip to Bali, Wellenwerk is a dream project in the German capital that will bring the waves to the heart of the city, with plenty more coming along with them. Surfing lessons will give the inexperienced a chance to learn the ropes, with a restaurant, mixology bar, garden and more on hand for those more interested in watching. There is even going to be a motorcycle workshop, although how that fits in with the surfing we don’t know, but we don’t really care because it sounds completely awesome. Wellenwerk is an entirely unique adrenaline trip, proof if more proof was needed that Berlin is a city that never stops evolving. Surfing might not have been something you expected in the German capital, but Berlin isn’t here to cater to your expectations. QLandsberger Allee 270, tel. +49 (0)30 204 562 26, www.wellenwerk-berlin.de. Open 14:00-22:00; Fri 14:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-23:00. berlin.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events ‘Tom Jones of the Balkans’, and while we usually bristle at the defamation of mighty Tom’s name we’re more than happy to accept it here. Zdravko plays Berlin on March 14. QVerti Music Hall, Mercedes-Platz 1, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88 11, www.zdravkocolic-cola.com.

MAXIM GORKI THEATRE

16.03 » AGNES OBEL

Agnes Caroline Thaarup Obel, you are a diamond that must be treasured with passion. Sounding exactly as fragile music from Denmark should, Obel has been treating us to plaintive piano and ethereal vocals since released ‘Philharmonics’ way back in 2010. A new album is due in February 2020, and Obel (who is now based in Berlin) plays Admiralspalast on March 16. QF‑3, Admiralspalast, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.agnesobel.com.

21.03 » PINEGROVE

Pinegrove’s fourth album hit the shelves in January and what an album it is, representing a fine return to form for the New Jersey quartet. The band return to Berlin in March, with a show at Lido on March 21. QI‑5, Lido, Cuvrystrasse 7, MU Schlesisches Tor, www.pinegroveband.com.

21.03 » OMAR SOULEYMAN

We once saw Omar Souleyman live in Ljubljana, and it was all sorts of fun. The Syrian warbler may have started out as a wedding singer in his home village but his unique brand of pop has found an audience all over the globe. This will be some heck of a show, we assure you.

MAXIM GORKI THEATRE Few names carry as much cultural cache as Maxim Gorki, but the heavy shadow of the great Soviet scribe doesn’t hold this excellent Mitte-based theatre down at all. Quite the opposite in fact, as the Maxim Gorki Theatre has a great array of shows and events that cover a huge amount of ground. All of the plays come with English subtitles as well, which is super handy. All this without mentioning that the building itself is the oldest of its kind in the city, although it only took on its modern moniker in 1952.QAm Festungsgraben 2, tel. +49 (0)30 202 211 15, www.gorki.de. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 16:30-22:00.

21.03 » UNDERWORLD

Underworld, now there’s a blast from the past. The real past as well, as it has been 24 years since ‘Born Slippy’ was released. There is a lot more to the electronic heroes than a monster hit single though, as will be displayed at the Tempodrom on March 21. QF‑4, Tempodrom, Möckernstrasse 10, MU Mockenbrucke, €47.05, www. underworldlive.com.

23.03 » COCOROSIE

We had absolutely no idea what to make Cocorosie the first time we heard them. The vocals were a little offputting, we’ll say that much, but we soon learned to love the curios melodies that those unorthodox voices could weave, creating pop music that defied genres and created its own magical little world. There’s a lot to love about Cocorosie, not least the use of ‘Yugoslavia’ in a hook. QFestsaal Kreuzberg, Am Flutgraben 2, www.cocorosiemusic.com.

31.03 » GREG DULLI

Legitimate royalty here. What young rock-centric songwriter has not been influenced by the work of Greg Dulli, the creative genius behind The Afghan Wigs and The Twilight Singers? Any chance to see a master at work is a chance that should be snapped up with all available hands, so get yourself to Lido on March 31. QI‑5, Lido, Cuvrystrasse 7, MU Schlesisches Tor.

THEATRE 07.02 19:30, 19.02 19:30, 03.03 19:30, 08.03 18:00, 21.03 19:30 » IN MY ROOM

What does it mean to be a ‘man’ in 2020? Whatever you want it to mean quite frankly, but the questions that hang over masculinity’s supposed crisis are being asked nonetheless. A product of research by Falk Richter, ‘In My Room’ tackles such debates through biographical experiences bathed in social narratives, the push and pull of father and son in the modern world, following in footsteps that might not be headed down your own personal path. The world premiere took place in January, and this might just be Berlin’s most fascinating new theatre production. QMaxim Gorki Theatre, Am Festungsgraben 2, tel. +49 (0)30 202 211 15, www.gorki.de.

28.02, 29.02 20:00 » FUTURELAND

Did you know that 50% of the refugees in Europe are minors, and that many of them are unaccompanied? A sobering fact, to say the least. Futureland would be a must-see without that stark reality, but the crisis adds another layer of intensity to the show. A science-fiction documentary piece documenting the lives of teenagers from Guinea, Bangladesh, Afghanistan, Syria and Somalia, Futureland is as engaging as it is important. QMaxim Gorki Theatre, Am Festungsgraben 2, tel. +49 (0)30 202 211 15, €16, www.gorki.de. February – March 2020 17

Culture & Events

MANDELA THE OFFICIAL EXHIBITION

FREIHEIT IST WEDER SCHWARZ NOCH WEIß 19 |10 | 19  15|03| 20 BIKINI BERLIN Tickets unter www.mandelaexhibition.de

Medienpartner

MANDELA UNTIL 15.03.2020 » MANDELA: THE OFFICIAL EXHIBITION

Mandela: The Official Exhibition, a moving journey through the life of the world’s most iconic activist and leader, is coming to Berlin for the second stop on its world-wide tour. Co-produced by Mandela’s grandson, Nkosi Zwelivelile Mandela, with lessons that speak to the challenges of today, the immersive exhibition tells the powerful story of a freedom-fighter who went on to unite a divided nation and inspire the world. We learn about Nelson Mandela’s uncanny ability to lead by example, bringing people of all races and backgrounds into his government and his life. Many of the stories and observations are shared firsthand through a number of contributors including Mandela’s personal assistant Zelda La Grange, as well as his warden and later, life-time friend, Christo Brand. At the exhibition’s celebrated London premiere in February 2019, CNN reported the exhibition “uncovers of a wealth of fresh material” and called it “an intimate portrait of Mandela’s life”. The Times declared “Mandela’s message of mutual respect and common humanity feels as relevant as ever”. 18 Berlin In Your Pocket

In London, more than 100.000 visitors walked in Nelson Mandela’s footsteps through immersive areas depicting the South African Transkei, the apartheid state, Robben Island and more. The interactive experience combines never-before-seen films, photos and more than 150 historical artifacts and personal effects on loan from the Mandela family, museums and archives worldwide. One visitor explained “This is a much more personal and interactive exhibition…not only was it created to educate, but to restart the conversation around how we can each do our part.” Mandela: The Official Exhibition offers reassurance that by following Nelson Mandela’s lessons of compassion and forgiveness there is hope for a better world.QD‑4, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Straße 38-50, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 55 49 64 54, During the week: Adults €10,00 / Children €8,50 - Weekends: Adults €12,50 / Children €11,00, www.mandelaexhibition.de. Open 09:00-22:00, Sat 09:00-20:00. Closed Sun.

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10 Tips for a Romantic Valentine’s Day in Berlin It might seem like only yesterday that you were rushing to make dinner reservations on the big day, so we’re giving you ample warning this year. Valentine’s Day is right around the corner. The most romantic day of the year might be greeted with cynicism in the modern age, but we’re all in on February 14 and the magic it brings. Berlin is one of the most romantic cities on the planet, and we’ve put together a little list of ways to spend Valentine’s Day, all of which can be just as fun if you’re lacking a significant other. But, as George Orwell said, beauty is meaningless unless it is shared.

A TRIP TO LITTLE VENICE

Berlin is super romantic, but even we’re not going to deny that Venice comes above it. Luckily for all involved, you can find yourself a Little Venice in Berlin, in the shape of the relatively undiscovered Tiefwerder neighbourhood. Be sure to rent a canoe, if you’re up for rowing and all that.

TAKE A CANDID SNAP OR TWO

Phone cameras may have changed the way we take photographs, but there’s nothing that says you can’t nip back in time for something a little more intimate. There are plenty of old fashioned photo booths dotted around Berlin, so seek one out and take the perfect wallet picture.

VISIT AN ABANDONED AIRPORT

Okay, ‘visit an abandoned airport’ might not sound like the most romantic idea in the world, but hear us out. Tempelhof is one of Berlin’s most unique attractions after all. The ‘Mother of All Airports’ has been closed for over a decade now, but the runways are perfect for running into the arms of your loved one. Extra points for doing this in slow motion.

ENJOY A ROMANTIC PANORAMA

We’re not afraid of a little cliched romance. What could be more delightful than watching Berlin spread out in front of you, with the object of your affection alongside you? Make a beeline for the Fernsehturm (TV Tower) and grab a kiss some 368 metres in the sky.

LUXURY, LUXURY, LUXURY

Berlin is home to some fantastic wellness centres, and we wholeheartedly recommend checking them out on Valentine’s Day. Romance is supposed to be as relaxing as it is thrilling, and it doesn’t get much more relaxing than a massage and some time in the sauna.

BECOME A PRINCE/PRINCESS

Schloss Charlottenburg is Berlin’s largest royal residence, and it is almost guaranteed to make you feel like genuine royalty. Slap on your finest wears and jump on the M45 bus for the full experience. You won’t actually become a prince or princess, but if you close your eyes tight enough…

PITCH, PUTT, PASSION

Traditional mini golf is a lot of fun, but we’re not going to deny that glow in the dark mini golf is far superior. Black

Light Mini Golf is found at the far end of Görlitzer Park, and we can vouch for the unorthodox romance of it. There may have been beer involved.

EMBRACE EUROPE’S BEST NIGHT OUT

Sticking with beer, Berlin is arguably the best night out in Europe. Now there is little romantic about a good old fashioned night out, but it is while running the bars of Kreuzberg, Neükolln and the rest that memories are made. Who knows, a drink too many could see someone down on one knee, and all bets are off from that point.

BOARD A BALLOON

This will depend on the weather of course, but there is something old fashioned and romantic about a balloon ride. Hi-Flyer Balloon is your best bet in Berlin, and it even has the certainty and safety of being tethered to the ground. If you’ve ever wanted to go on a balloon ride but have resisted through fear of getting dragged off with the wind, Hi-Flyer Balloon is for you.

A ROMANTIC DINNER FOR TWO

Valentine’s Day is a lot like Hallowe’en. Big plans are made all year long, but the chances are real life will get in the way and most couples will make do with a candlelit dinner for two. Luckily for these lovers, Berlin is full of romantic restaurants that are tailor-made for those with hearts in their eyes. Just be sure to make reservations ahead of time, unless you enjoy sleeping on the couch…

Read more online: berlin.inyourpocket.com February – March 2020 19

Family fun

We get it—it’s hard to travel with kids. After a while, sight seeing, museums, walking tours, bus tours, river tours, and tours in general start to wear them out (they might wear you out, too!). But that is one of the appeals of Berlin; there are opportunities not only for those with the maturity of a 50-year-old or for those who are above legal drinking age. That is why we have created this quick reference guide of a variety of activities that you can do with your children in Berlin, specifically during the autumnal and winter months.

Column and climb up the stairs to see a breathtaking sight of Tiergarten and the surrounding city for only €3. MAGIC MOUNTAIN Need to really do something but don’t want to spend time outside because it’s cold and wet? Let off some energy by climbing a wall! With walls for any skill level, this is a great place for the entire family to practice scaling mountains on their impressive indoor and outdoor climbing facility.

Though we do not list all the state museums here, it is important to note that the State museums in Berlin are free for children. ZOO BERLIN & AQUARIUM We know, we know. It’s cold outside! Zoos are outside! But the Zoo Berlin and Aquarium are open year long, and the aquarium is a great option if you need to duck indoors after the zoo. With some 17,000 animals of nearly 1,500 species, this is the most varied zoo in the world. The kids will have their faces glued to the glass for hours at the separate aquarium complex; fish, reptiles and amphibians can be viewed at close quarters in landscape basins and tanks. Tickets can be purchased online for the Zoo, the Aquarium, or a combined ticket for both. If your child loves animals or would like some time outside, this is the way to do it. TIERGARTEN One of the most beautiful places in Berlin during the autumnal months, Tiergarten is another must-see for those who need some time outside. Swing by the Victory 20 Berlin In Your Pocket

JUMP House

JUMP HOUSE IN REINICKENDORF Another perfect way to get rid of access energy while staying indoors, the Jump House is a trampoline park where you can jump in their open jump area, do tricks into foam pits, play games with each other, and try your hand at being a ninja on their ninja course. berlin.inyourpocket.com

Family fun LITTLE BIG CITY If you’re looking to help your children learn a little more about Berlin and it’s history, this is a great place to start. This attraction is exactly what it sounds like: a miniaturized version of the wonderful city Berlin. Walk with the about 6,000 mini residents through history, with displays of the medieval times through WWII to now. It’s interactive and captivating narrators are sure to help children and adults alike understand a little more about Berlin while thoroughly enjoying it. THE BERLIN DUNGEON If your children are older, this is a great indoor activity with a splash of history. The new Dungeon is essentially a 60-minute trip past nine scary and funny live shows, where bilingual actors cherry-pick stories from 700 years of Berlin’s history. Meet infamous characters like the monk Roderich or serial killer Carl Grossmann, learn about the plague in Klosterstrasse and about the fearsome torture chamber. Recommended for ages 13 and up.

Museum für Naturkunde

MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE Berlin’s Museum of Natural History provides all the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world towers over visitors in the main hall. With so many activities catered to children, this is a fun opportunity to learn for children and adults

CHARLOTTCHEN If you need a change of pace for younger children, ‘Little Charlotte’ is a unique children’s restaurant and theatre. Drop by for tasty meals, an indoor playground with slides and a castle, theatre shows, and other events. Call ahead or visit the website to find out when the next childrens’ theatre, puppet or clown show will take place.

MUSEUM FÜR KOMMUNIKATION Communication is central to human connection, and that is exactly what this museum explores. These interactive exhibits explain the development of information and communication throughout the ages in a way that is appropriate, interesting, and fun for all ages. Yet another fun place to help your children learn about something new;

ZEISS PLANETARIUM Do you have a child that loves space, stars, and exploring? One of the last buildings built by the GDR, this planetarium is the most advanced of its kind in Europe. The entire spectrum of natural sciences are embraced here with a healthy dab of music, culture and more. Be aware that it is closed on Monday, but ready and waiting throughout the rest of the week.

February – March 2020 21

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Wedding

Mitte Restaurants & Cafés GERMAN ALPENSTUECK Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad, Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the palate.QF‑2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open 18:00-01:00. €€. TUGBS GAFFEL HAUS Serving the famed Gaffel Kölsch beer from Cologne in the small glasses typical for that city, Gaffel, a large and authentic beer house serving traditional German cuisine, lives up to expectations. Try the Fooderplaat snack plate with sausages and black pudding, the herring filet or the roast beef, or the excellent Wiener Schnitzel. On Friday after 17:00, drop by for the Eisbein (pickled ham hock) special, which includes a beer and a glass of Kabänes herb liqueur. When FC Köln plays on Sundays, Gaffel is full of cheering fans.QF‑3, Dorotheenstraße 65, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 31 01 16 93, www.gaffel-haus-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. B HOFBRÄU WIRTSHAUS BERLIN Almost 600km might separate Berlin and Munich, but the taste of Bavaria is certainly alive in the Germany capital. Hofbräu Wirtshaus brings Munich to town, with hearty meals alongside that delicious Bavarian beer, served by waitresses in traditional dress as the bouncy beats of the south play loud and proud around the place. Perfect for groups, Oktoberfest can be a year-round celebration if you find yourself at Alexanderplatz.QG‑3, Karl-LiebknechtStr. 30, MAlexanderplatz, tel. +49(0)30 679 66 55 20, www.berlin-hofbraeu.de. Open 10:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. €€. AUBK

Gendarmenmarkt. The menu includes soups and salads, but the real specialities are the delicious Bavarian meat dishes such as knuckle of pork, steak, and a variety of sausages. QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 185-190, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 45 05 59, www.maximiliansrestaurant.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. UGBS MUTTER HOPPE Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space divided into cosy, low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers sides not served at other German restaurants, including green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further towards the Spree.QG‑3, Rathausstraße 21, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 24 72 06 03, www.en.mutterhoppe.de. Open 11:30 - 24:00. €€. TEGB STÄNDIGE VERTRETUNG Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not happy when they had to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn hangout (named after the West-German ‘embassy’ in the GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-back politician’s meeting point supplies the homesick with their beloved Kölsch beer and Rhineland specialties (like Blutwurst and Saumagen), but the menu has a selection of Berlin food as well.QF‑3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 282 39 65, www.staev.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. B

KEYSER SOZE A renowned corner bar in Mitte with an unpretentious atmosphere, great food and a good mix of locals and visitors. The food is simple and good; try the famed allday breakfast, poached Bavarian Weißwurst sausages, a Schnitzel, or the goat cheese salad.QF‑2, Tucholskystraße 33, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 59 94 89, www.keyser-soze.de. Open 08:00-02:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00-04:00. €€. NGTBES MAXIMILIANS So you always wondered what Bavaria is like – the beer, the food, Oktoberfest – but you only made it as far as Berlin? No problem: Maximilians restaurant serves up authentic and delicious Bavarian cuisine just a stone’s throw from

Iconic Alexanderplatz at night

February – March 2020 23

Mitte PANORAMAPUNKT

PANORAMAPUNKT It takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator to get shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 24th and 25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans Kollhoff ’s magnificent 1930s-inspired building refers to New York’s skyscraping glory days but also resembles the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the top floors there’s an exhibition about the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which went from world-class entertainment district to Wall-divided wasteland and back again within a generation. The rooftop terrace offers great closeup views of Berlin’s highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and Tiergarten park. Indoors, there’s a café too.QE‑4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. Viewing platform open 10:00-18:00, cafe open 11:0017:00. Admission €7.50; family ticket €17.50.

BACK TO SCHOOL The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the watering hole for adult students from all around the world who are learning German at the GLS language school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques. DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de. GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89 27, www.gls-berlin.de. 24 Berlin In Your Pocket

WEIHENSTEPHANER The one eatery on the sunny square that delivers a “hey, this is Germany!” experience. The Weihenstephaner brewery restaurant has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple and satisfying Bavarian specialities (like white sausages). The outdoor tables have typical blue-and-white checked tablecloths; inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant.QG‑3, Neue Promenade 5, Mitte, MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 84 71 07 60, www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de. Open 11:00-01:00. €€. TUEGB ZUR LETZTEN INSTANZ Berlin’s oldest restaurant doesn’t lie on the tourist path, and maybe that’s why German leaders bring visiting heads of state here when everything in Mitte is too noisy and crowded. Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989, and Gerhard Schröder brought Jacques Chirac over for the Berlin specialities, including Eisbein, in 2003.QG‑3, Waisenstraße 14-16, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Open 12:0001:00. Closed Sun. €€. GBS

ASIAN JOLLY Opposite the Pergamon Museum, with tourists, trams and S-Bahn trains gliding by the windows, Jolly is a spacious and modern restaurant with delicious Cantonese Chinese and Thai dishes. Specialities include dim sum and Peking roast duck, served with pancakes and special sauce, but there’s also a wide variety of soups, and good portions of stir-fried meals and Thai curries, with servings of fluffy rice.QF‑3, Am Kupfergraben 4, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 20 05 95 01, service@restaurant-jolly.de, www.restaurantjolly.de. Open 11:30 - 23:30. €€. AUBS KAMALA Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere, where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the curries are rich and buttery.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97, www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. AB OTITO Staying open later than others in Berlin’s tourist district, Otito is a good choice for fresh Vietnamese food at great prices, to eat in or take away. There’s fried spring rolls, wantan dumplings, pho soup and a variety of rice dishes – as well as an impressive list of sushi options.QLeipziger Str. 30, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 60 53 00, www.otito.de. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. VAN LONG Best visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities, from all parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty Thai options served in a modest space decorated with berlin.inyourpocket.com

Mitte Vietnamese art. Try the specials such as the Cha Ca La Vong fish that you finish grilling at your table, or the Lau chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.QReinhardtstraße 8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 23 570, www.van-long.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.

360° PANORAMIC VIEW EXHIBITION CAFÉ

FINE DINING AIGNER One of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly international, as its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate from a famous Viennese café that closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh from the market.QF‑3, Französische Straße 25, Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00-02:00. €€€. TUGBSW CHARLOTTE & FRITZ After Chef Christian Loehse, who has won several of the Michelin stars in the past, left the Fischers Fritz restaurant at the end of 2017, the Regent Hotel remodelled and modernised the restaurant’s interior and completely revamped its concept. New Chef de cuisine Joerg Lawerenz has instead focused on home-made, fresh cuisine with a mix of influences from other countries - relying on many regional suppliers. Next to the new name at the controls is a fantastic lunch menu served during the week. QF‑3, Charlottenstraße 49, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.charlotteundfritz. com. Open 12:00 - 14:00; 18:00 - 22:30. €€€€. APG hhhhh

WITH THE FASTEST ELEVATOR IN EUROPE

TO THE BEST VIEWS OF BERLIN

FACIL At the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant, chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare using only fresh, local products direct from the market. The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that retracts.QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. UGBW h PARIS-MOSKAU Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly positioned between new government offices and hotels. Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now. Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust, tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, there’s a lunch menu as well.QE‑3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00-24:00. €€€. A

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Opening hours: Platform: 10:00-20:00 Café: 11:00-19:00 Shorter opening hours during winter Potsdamer Platz 1

www.panoramapunkt.de

February – March 2020 25

Mitte FOOD WITH A VIEW

NOLA’S AM WEINBERG Delicious modern Swiss cuisine served on the heady hights of Berlin’s city-centre Weinberg ‘mountain’. Get your tongue around amazing cheese-bread-wine combinations and enjoy anything from healthy breakfasts to nicely priced weekday lunches and Sunday brunches to Alpine dinners including various fondue options.QVeteranenstrasse 9, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.nola.de. Open 10:00 - 01:00. PATIO Surprisingly few restaurants in Berlin make the most of the wonderful river views - but Patio is an exception, located on a boat with huge windows, a fireplace and large terrace areas. Watch the tour boats glide by as you try the international, Italian-inspired cuisine, or order one of the excellent cocktails.QHelgoländer Ufer corner Kirchstraße, Mitte, MS Bellevue, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 00, www.patio-berlin.de. Open 17:30 – 23:00.

PANORAMA CAFÉ The 1930s-style café at the top of the popular PanoramaPunkt viewing point on Potsdamer Platz is a great place for coffee, cakes and other snacks, before venturing on the open terrace with great views over Berlin. The name is a bit of a giveaway, and we’re always going to be interested in a bit of caffeinefuelled class with incredible views.QE‑4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. Open 11:00-17:00. Tower admission €7,50; family ticket €17,50. VOX Highly-paid business travellers from New York, London and Hamburg look quite at home in this excellent, minimalist and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. Between the DJ sets and creative cocktails in the adjoining bar and the show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, so don’t drop your sushi in your lap.QE‑4, MarleneDietrich-Platz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 53 17 72, www.vox-restaurant.de. Open: Breakfast Mon-Fri 06:30 - 10:30, Sat & Sun 06:30 - 12:00. Dinner Sun-Thu 18:30 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 18:30 - 24:00. Bar Sun-Thu 18:00-01:00, Fri & Sat 18:00-02:00. €€€. PA EGB

INTERNATIONAL ALBERTS A bustling, modern café, lounge bar, club and restaurant with a large terrace that appeals to breakfasting singles, lunching businessmen as well as partying youngsters. QH‑3, Karl-Marx-Allee 35, Mitte, MU Schillingstraße, tel. +49 30 24 72 72 50, www.alberts-berlin.com. Open 09:00-openend. €€. TBW 26 Berlin In Your Pocket

ZOLLPACKHOF Long one of the best German restaurants in the land, this place recently reopened after the completion of a threeyear renovation project, and the Zollpackhof beer garden looks better than ever. With a superb terrace offering views of the fine main building the menu boasts a wide range of first-class dishes, from homemade potato soup with fresh marjoram and Vienna sausages to duck roasted with oranges. The Schmankerl menu for two is as meaty a treat as you’ll find in all Berlin. The Sunday Brunch (from 11:30) is set to become legendary.QE‑3, ElisabethAbegg-Straße 1, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 33 09 97 20, www.zollpackhof.de. Open from 11:00. €€. TUGB

ITALIAN TO THE BONE To be honest, we were sold with the name alone. To The Bone is a must-visit for carnivores in Berlin, with some of the most succulent meat found in this spot in Mitte. An Italian restaurant with its focus firmly on the meat-friendly north, the appreciation for the traditional craft of the butcher is readily apparent here, from the presentation through to the taste. QTorstraße 96, MRosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 (0)30 407 534 40, www.tothebone.bonita.berlin. Closed Sun, 18:00 - 23:00.

JAPANESE COCOLO A completely authentic Japanese ramen noodle soup restaurant, complete with an open kitchen emitting clouds of fragrant steam, cramped conditions on shared benches and a line of hungry waiting guests. Start off with a bowl of salty green beans, choose from five delicious broths, have an Asahi beer and remember to slurp.QG‑2, Gipsstraße 3, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 172 304 75 84. Open 18:00-24:00. €€. GB berlin.inyourpocket.com

Mitte SPANISH YOSOY TAPAS-BAR Amongst the slick urban restaurants of Mitte, this intimate-sized tapas bar with beautiful tile work and a Spanish staff is one of the few to proudly show its roots. High stools and an open storefront give you a nice vantage point from which to watch the crowds flowing towards the Hackescher Höfe.QG‑3, Rosenthaler Straße 37, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 912 13, www.yosoy.de. Open 11:00-02:00. €€. PAB

CAFÉS BARCOMI’S DELI Barcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coffee and luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaffeerösterei outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coffee.QF‑5, Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, info@ barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. TGBS THE DIGITAL EATERY Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsoft’s very first café showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (€8,90), or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic devices or use the free wifi. Best of all are the digital toys that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or play Xbox games.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, www.microsoft-berlin. de/the-digital-eatery. Open 08:30-19:00, Sat 11:0020:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. W

Nightlife BARS AUFSTURZ The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable and the place looks good, with changing modern art exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger Straße haunt.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 67, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, kontakt@ aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de. Open from 12:00. EB

The stunning observation deck at PanoramaPunkt © panoramapunkt.de

DER MAUERWINZER The ‘Vintner by the Wall’ serves around 100 wines from all 13 wine regions in both east and west Germany. Cosy up by the fireplace in winter or spread out on the terrace in summer to make the most of the fine wines, or get some bottles to take home.QWolliner Str. 20, Mitte, MU Eberswalder Strasse, tel. +49 30 48 49 15 01, www.mauerwinzer.de. Open 16:00 - 23:00. ESCHSCHLORAQUE RÜMSCHRÜMP An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from the crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a stage, plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in the back yard shows foreign films in original version.QG‑3, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, post@eschschloraque.de, www.eschschloraque.de. Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW MEIN HAUS AM SEE It’s all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the ‘My Lake House’ makes it very easy with its large slope of seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7, it’s a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On the menu are drinks, exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers, pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG‑2, Brunnenstraße 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, info@mein-haus-am-see.com, www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours Open 24/7. €. TUENGBSW February – March 2020 27

Mitte also houses Berlin’s highest bar) offers predictably amazing views of the entire city and beyond, while the Sphere restaurant on the floor above the viewing deck comes complete with a rotating floor. Photos as well as the Berlin TV Tower app point out the many, many Berlin landmarks for you. We recommend two visits, one by day, and one by night (it is open until midnight): you will get two completely different perspectives. Tip: buy your ticket online in advance to beat the queues. The main entrance is opposite Alexanderplatz S-Bahn train station.QG‑3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.tv-turm.de. Open 09:00-24:00. Admission up €16.50/ €9.50/Free for the under-4s.

Potsdamer Platz is one of Berlin’s great squares

CLUBS HOUSE OF WEEKEND The old Weekend Club moved from 12th to the 17th floor of the beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel agency specialising in saying ‘no’) on the corner of Otto-Braun-Straße. Probably the best rooftop view in town!QG‑3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 (0) 152 24293140, www.houseofweekend.berlin. Open Thu-Sat 23:0004:00. KAFFEE BURGER The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-inthe-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminer’s wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba. QG‑2, Torstraße 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open from 21:00. E

Sightseeing LANDMARKS BERLINER FERNSEHTURM (BERLIN TV TOWER) Now as much a symbol of Berlin as any other building, the 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969, is 70m higher than the Eiffel tower and still the tallest building in Germany. Its observation deck (which 28 Berlin In Your Pocket

NEUE SYNAGOGE The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from 1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, first on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue in Germany. A subtle but effective sound installation adds to the experience.QF‑3, Oranienburger Straße 28-30, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00, www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:0020:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat closed. Admission €3,50/3. POTSDAMER PLATZ Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the war, and suffered again when most remaining buildings were demolished to make way for the Wall’s death strip. Hotel and office skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt. The most popular public space and architectural attraction is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting. The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F‑4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz. NIKOLAIVIERTEL Berlin’s tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche. The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday in the area in which the fishermen’s settlement first began. No one was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that the GDR government could afford. The small shops in the area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly fill the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river. On Rathausstraße, there’s a row of restaurants that flaunt old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt berlin.inyourpocket.com

Mitte historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing exhibits related to Berlin.QG‑3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, www.stadtmuseum.de. REICHSTAG The name together with its monumental size make most people associate Germany’s neoclassical parliamentary building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fire just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999. Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps the most public federal building in the world through its glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting the building’s history circle the rim above the parliament chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome, an engineering feat even more fascinating than the panoramic view from the top. It’s best to book an entry time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of the building in advance online; otherwise queue up for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the road. Photo ID is required.QF‑3, Platz der Republik 1, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag. de. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.

MUSEUMSINSEL The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of impressive collections of art, history and ethnology, covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as well as their cross-overs into modernity. ALTE NATIONALGALERIE Cézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are some of the artists whose works hang around this museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully battered colonnade.QG‑3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. ALTES MUSEUM This neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG‑3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30

CHURCHES BERLINER DOM The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from 1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up to the dome’s rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side exhibit rooms and good views.QG‑3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission €7/4. DEUTSCHER DOM The baroque ‘German Church’ from 1701 was completed with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged by fire in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s. Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an exhibition about the development of parliamentarian democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows and the impressive building models on the top floor. Free tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking is required for individual visitors.QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www.bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ ausstellungen/wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. NEUES MUSEUM Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored in 2009, the ‘New Museum’ is new again and is full of ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus Collection are housed here, with spectacular finds such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has finds from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany. One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were considered to be ‘degenerate art’ by the Nazis.QG‑3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6. PERGAMON MUSEUM The Pergamon museum is undergoing major renovations, with the north wing and the hall with the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Visitors can still see the market gate of Miletus, the amazing blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG‑3, Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6. February – March 2020 29

Mitte during the complex’s construction in 1988-89. The bunker was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom) behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstraße.QF‑3, In den Ministergärten, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.

Wall Panorama

FRANZÖSISCHER DOM The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkt’s grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and French only), dedicated to the thousands of French protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century. Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40 metres above street level, with great views all around. QF‑3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open 12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon. Admission €2/1, viewing balcony €2.50/1.

MEMORIALS FÜHRERBUNKER One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in an air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached by walking to the end of In den Ministergärten, off Ebertstraße. A parking area surrounded by a pre-fabricated apartment complex covers the location, which was entirely sealed off

MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS OF EUROPE This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site serves as Germany’s national memorial to those victims. The design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a field of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, creating an undulating landscape that fills two city blocks. The memorial has an undergound information centre which is not suitable for children.QF‑3, Cora-BerlinerStraße 1, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36, www.stiftung-denkmal.de. Information centre open 10:00-20:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

MUSEUMS ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN The round structure near Checkpoint Charlie houses an incredibly detailed 60 by 15 metre panoramic painting of the Berlin Wall and its scruffy surroundings as it looked in the mid-1980s. Artist Yadegar Asisi has incorporated his personal experiences of the time and the everyday banality of the Wall with fascinating small scenes of life, on both sides of the divide. Join the English tour on Thursdays 11:30 at no extra cost.QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 205, Mitte, tel. +49 306980861, www.die-mauer.de. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission €10/8. BODY WORLDS The world’s first BODY WORLDS museum presents more than 200 unique plastinates that show the function of individual organs as well as common diseases. It gives insights into the highly complex structures of the human body and shows what connects us, keeps us upright and in motion, and what makes us laugh and love. You will find it at the base of the TV-tower. S-Bahn 5, 7, 75, 9 and

asisi Panorama Berlin Friedrichstraße 205 10117 Berlin Checkpoint Charlie

Tickets and Service +49(0) 30 695 80 861 service@die-mauer.de

Free Guided Tours Thursdays 11.30 a.m. in English – for Berlin discoverers

Opening hours daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Getting there U6 Kochstraße U2 Stadtmitte M29 Kochstraße

facebook.com/ asisi.berlin www.die-mauer.de die_mauer_panorama

ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN asisi.de | die-mauer.de

30 Berlin In Your Pocket

In cooperation with

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Mitte

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR Checkpoint Charlie Friedrichstraße 47 / corner Zimmerstraße | 10117 Berlin-Mitte Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Visitors’ service info@bfgg.de More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de

HERE, CONTEmpORARy HIsTORy COmEs ALIvE U-Bahn 2, 5, 8 will get you here, as well as buses TXL, 100, 200.QG‑3, Panoramastrasse 1a (Fernsehturm tower), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.bodyworlds.com/ berlin. Open 10:00 - 19:00, last admission 18:00, Public Holidays 10:00-19:00, Closed 24th December. Admission €14/12/9 (30% with Berlin Welcome Card). GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER The excellent national memorial site for the divided Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin Wall’s history in text, slides and dramatic film footage. An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for several more open-air exhibitions.QF‑2, Bernauer Straße 111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467 98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:3019:00, Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition open 24hrs). Admission free. DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM The imperial Zeughaus - a pretty, pink, early 18th century arsenal building by the Spree - houses the impressive German History Museum. The permanent exhibition provides insight into around 1500 years of Germany’s past. Around 7000 historical exhibits tell of people, ideas, events and historical developments from the 5th century to the end of the 20th century. The introductory section is devoted to changes in the boundaries of Germany and Europe and to the history of the German language. From there the tour through the exhibition examines political history as it was, and still is, shaped by rulers, politicians and constituted communities. It does not claim to present a comprehensive history of everyday routines, work and living conditions, but in many different ways it provides a view of the everyday life of various groups of society. On the tour through the exhibition you pass through a series of chronologically arranged historical epochs. The upper floor covers history up to the end of the

First World War. The tour continues on the main floor through areas devoted to the Weimar Republic, the Nazi regime, the post-war period as well as the history of the two German states from 1949 to reunification in 1990, followed by the departure of the Allied Forces in 1994. Besidesthe permanent exhibitionthereareregularly changing exhibitions in the dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent an audio tour set for €3 or join the Englishlanguage highlights tour on Saturdays at 13:00.QF‑3, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €8/4. Under 18 free.

BLACK BOX COLD WAR

Black Box Cold War

BLACK BOX COLD WAR The Cold War might seem like an impossibly different time to most young people today, but it is difficult to truly explain the gravity and importance of that tumultuous time. The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and texts highlights the main events that took place here, shining a light on one of history’s most tense periods. QF‑4, Friedrichstraße 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35 71, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission €5/3,50. February – March 2020 31

Mitte lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla Bobby from the primates hall.QF‑2, Invalidenstraße 43, Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85 91, info@mfnberlin.de, www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Open 09:30 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,50.

Illuseum

GEMÄLDEGALERIE Berlin’s largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters include Dürer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians are represented by Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch rooms are especially good with a Vermeer and the world’s largest Rembrandt collection. QE‑4, Matthäikirchplatz 8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, service@smb.museum, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4. HAMBURGER BAHNHOF Berlin’s wonderful modern art museum is situated in a converted train station. It’s well worth a visit by those curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fixated by bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are the other familiar stars of this post-1960s collection.QE‑2, Invalidenstraße 50-51, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, hbf@smb.spk-berlin.de, www. hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5. ILLUSEUM BERLIN While it seems to be getting harder and harder to decipher what is real and what is not in the modern age, a trip to Berlin’s Illuseum is a light-hearted way to experience a similar phenomenon. Every exhibit is as engaging as the last, from optical illusions to confusing holograms via 3D puzzles, riddles and tests of logic. Your senses will almost certainly fool you but you’ll have an excellent time in the process, with some disorientating fun for all the family. QG3, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 9, MAlexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 2578 4117, www.illuseum-berlin.de. Open 10:0020:00. € 12/8 Family Ticket € 30 (2 adults and max. 2 kids). MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere there’s the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites, the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird Archaeopteryx 32 Berlin In Your Pocket

MÄRKISCHES MUSEUM (STADTMUSEUM BERLIN) The Märkisches Museum might have over 140 years of history behind it, but this 1874-established institution is right at the forefront of embracing technology to tell the stories of the city. BerlinZEIT is a new permanent exhibition, a dual-lingual interactive ride through the history of this magnificent city from the Ice Age to the present day that is all done and dusted within an hour. One of the finest exhibitions in Berlin, which is no small feat. QG‑3, Am Köllnischen Park 5, Mitte, MU Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 24 00 21 62, www.en.stadtmuseum.de. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €7/4, first Wed free. MUSEUM FÜR FILM UND FERNSEHEN Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the personalities that gave it glamour and style came from Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country with a strong film-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s shooting of Olympia (1936) and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda films will impress ‘seen-that’ film buffs. The museum ends with special effects and science fiction. QE‑4, Potsdamer Straße 2 (Sony Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 300 90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission €6/4,5. SAMMLUNG BOROS (BOROS COLLECTION) A showpiece M1200-type bunker from 1941, previously used for fruit storage and as an infamous techno and fetish club, is now the private art gallery of advertising executive Christian Boros and his wife, who live in the penthouse bungalow on top. It’s full of wonderful modern art which can be viewed on excellent English-language guided tours (booked well in advance).QF‑3, Reinhardstraße 20, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 27 59 40 65, www.sammlung-boros.de. Open Thurs 15:00-20:00, FriSun 10:00-20:00. Admission €12/6.

Shopping BOOKS DUSSMANN Dussmann is the biggest and unquestionably best bookstore in Berlin, set over five amazing levels with an excellent, separate section for English-language books, and a huge travel section. Besides books there is music, film and gifts, a wonderful stationers and an elegant cafe and restaurant. The place looks fantastic - the vertical garden in a sight in berlin.inyourpocket.com

Mitte itself - and you could end up spending the whole day here. QF‑3, Friedrichstraße 90, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 20 25 11 11, www.kulturkaufhaus.de. Open 09:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-23:30; closed Sun.

DEPARTMENT STORES

Alexa Centre

The Electric Jesus? The People’s Mother Theresa? A Dude Who Deadlifts Cattle?

ALEXA CENTRE Known simply as Alexa, the Alexa Centre is one of the finest shopping centres in Berlin. Located inside an instantly recognisable red building near Alexanderplatz, the mall is found on five floors with a huge variety of shops and restaurants waiting to be enjoyed. Fashion, accessories, jewellery, electronics, books and more, you name it and you’ll likely find it somewhere in the Alexa Centre. The fifth floor is given over to an excellent food court, and the basement car park has space for some 1,600 vehicles. A veritable shopper’s paradise!QG‑3, Grunerstraße 20 (Alexanderplatz), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 (0) 30 269 340 - 121, www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:00-19:00.

FASHION AND SHOES ADIDAS ORIGINALS Adidas’ flagship store in Mitte’s trendiest shopping street has a sleek grey and white industrial look, and stocks the top products of the famed German brand, including retro sneakers and items that can’t be found elsewhere. Take a seat in a barber chair to design your own shoes on the mi adidas screens. The selection of products on offer is changed often, making regular visits worthwhile.QG‑2/3, Münzstraße 1315, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 27 59 43 81, www.adidas.de. Open 11:00-20:00; closed Sun. BIRKENSTOCK SHOP BERLIN Finally, a store that wants you to survive walking Berlin’s cobblestone streets. Sensible shoes made in Germany since 1774, there is an iconic quality to Birkenstocks that cannot be manufactured. PETA also named them 2018’s most animal-friendly shoe company, so two thumbs up there.QG‑3, Neue Schönhauser Straße 6-7, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 09 96 94, www.birkenstock.com. Open 10:30-20:00; closed Sun.

eBook also available Artists, scientists, revolutionaries, athletes, spies, inventors, alcoholic swimmers, and a woman who fell from heaven. The good and the great of the Slavic world, all between two delicious covers go to www.poshlostbooks.com for more information FB - An Illustrated History of Slavic Misery IG - @slavicmisery

February – March 2020 33

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Charlottenburg & the West Restaurants & Cafés AMERICAN HARD ROCK CAFE This is the place to head to meet both foreigners and locals looking for huge piles of food and un-Germanly friendly staff. America dominates the menu, with nachos, wraps, fantastic hamburgers, steaks and chocolate peanut butter pie. When the kitchen closes, the bar continues, allowing visitors to party on.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 224, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 88 46 20, www.hardrock.com. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 00:30. (€10-20). PAEGB

SUKSAN

TRAVEL FAR. EAT AT HOME Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with captivating aromas and tasty combinations that will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and healthy and original ingredients are central to our dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip to the land of smiles.

ASIAN SUKSAN A short stroll from West Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials, or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD‑4, Ansbacher Straße 4, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de, www. suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.

100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE

ORIGINA L THAI FOO D

A cosy Thai experience at Suksan

AUSTRIAN OTTENTHAL The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh, seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town, Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil, are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite spots.QC‑4, Kantstraße 153, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal. com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. VGB

SUKSAN Ansbacher Strasse 4 corner Kurfürstenstrasse U - Wittenbergplatz www.suksan.de

TEL 030.21 01 86 73 February – March 2020 35

Charlottenburg & the West SCHNITZELEI Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre, with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different variations, though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB‑3, Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 01:00. €€. TVGBS

FINE DINING

Fine dining with a German soul at Renger-Patzsch

GROSZ A true old-fashioned Grand Cafe and restaurant, conceived in the same style as during the Ku’damm’s heyday, a century ago. Grosz not only looks magnificent with its architecture, the fine dining is as good as it gets in this part of town. Settle down for an exquisite dinner - perhaps even private dining? - or drop by earlier for the Plat du jour lunch special or the cakes from the house patisserie.QKurfürstendamm 193/194, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrasse, tel. +49 30 652 14 21 99, www.grosz-berlin.de. Open 09:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:30.

RENGER-PATZSCH Upscale German dining with a difference. The interior is kept casual and simple, with all focus on the people and the food. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen. QD‑5, Wartburgstraße 54, Schöneberg, MU Eisenacher Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€.

FRENCH LE PETIT ROYAL Fantastic, high quality French cuisine, focussing on classic dishes, fresh seafood and fish - but there’s great steak too. And it’s no problem to pair whatever you order to one of the 500 wines stored in the large wine room. The beautifully designed space is perfect for a special night out. QC‑4, Grolmanstrasse 59, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 330 06 07 50, www.lepetitroyal.de.

GERMAN APRIL This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD‑5, Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.net. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS LINDENWIRTIN A Berlin pub and restaurant as good as any and better than most. There is a fabulous range of draught beers, many local, and the food is a cracking selection of all your Mitteleuropa favourites, not least the fantastic schnitzel which is one of the best we’ve eaten in this city. The roast goose can also be vouched for. Lively atmosphere made all the better by a regular crowd of locals as well as visitors to Berlin who have heard about how good it is. Go there!QLindenallee 28, MU Theodor-Heuss Platz, tel. 30 302 77 47, www.habels-lindenwirtin.de. 15:00 - 24:00. 36 Berlin In Your Pocket

SCHÖNEBERGER WELTLATERNE Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled tavern on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. Schnitzel variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with pea puree, sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote Grütze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red berries), and warm apple strudel make up the menu of traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD‑5, Motzstraße 61, Schöneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21 96 98 61, schoeneberger_weltlaterne@yahoo.de, schoeneberger-weltlaterne.mycylex.de. Open 17:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB ZILLEMARKT The kind of quintessential Berlin venue you just have to come and eat when visiting the German capital. Serving - in their own idiom - solid Berlin dishes (as well as much else, including a decent selection of fish and seafood) this place just oozes charm and atmosphere and Berliner Allerlei (Berlin pot pourri). It is as well known for its kartoffel pizza (potato pizza) as it is for its homebrewed Zillebrau beer, which is fantastic and at €3.80 for half a litre is one of the top value pints in the city: enjoy it in the big, lovely beergarden.QC‑4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00-24:00. TB

INTERNATIONAL BEEF 45 First things first, beef 45 is a fantastic name for a restaurant. Secondly, this is right up our alley, that alley being one lined with premium beef cooked to perfection. This is a restaurant for carnivores, a graceful setting in which to devour some tasty steaks alongside a great selection of craft beers, wines and more. Stunning.QBudapester Strasse 45, www.palace.de. Open 18:00-22:00. berlin.inyourpocket.com

Charlottenburg & the West EINHORN A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space only. Every day there’s a completely different menu, with European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian dishes.QC‑4, Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorncatering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. NGS

ITALIAN LOCANDA A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The pasta, fish and meat dishes are simple, and all simply delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite the Schaubühne theatre.QB‑4, Lehniner Platz 2, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80 69 68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €. TNGBS

JAPANESE

Local cuisine Wartburgstraße 54

Berlin - Schöneberg 893 RYŌTEI We ate here recently and loved it. This is Japanese food Open daily from 18:00 done the right way in the right atmosphere by a group of Tel. 784 20 59 chefs who seriously know their stuff. There’s sashimi and www.renger-patzsch.com sushi all prepared exquisitely, as well as a whole host of cooked dishes, of which the pick for us was the outstanding miso cod. The bar is as hip as the restaurant (and stays open late) and the place oozes class while keeping prices down: CAFÉS 5 26.11.2009 12:44:07 you will leave thinking it really should have all cost a GEBE42_RengerPatzsch_ad.indd lot CAFE KALWIL more.QC‑4, Kantstrasse 135, MS Savignyplatz, tel. 30 A cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg. 917 031 21, www.893ryotei.de. Open 18:30-23:30, Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of Closed Mon. strapping moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coffee, quality teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light SACHIKO SUSHI An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town, meals and more.QD‑4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18, with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve www.cafekalwilberlin.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00. €€. classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, here’s ABW your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC‑3, CAFÉ-RESTAURANT »WINTERGARTEN« Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS IM LITERATURHAUS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi. Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats, com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. polished canes and freshly fluffed pups, but you don’t have to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout. €€. TGBS Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy SPANISH rooms that are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC‑4, Fasanenstraße 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, EL DORADO Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting tel. +49 30 882 54 14, www.literaturhaus-berlin.de/ for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh wintergarten-cafe-restaurant.html. Open 09:00-24:00. up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and €€. GB Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just want to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass Full contents online: by.QC‑4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82, berlin.inyourpocket.com www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. €€. B February – March 2020 37

Charlottenburg & the West MOMMSEN-ECK With traditional charm in a street north of the Ku’damm, Mommsen-Eck is a comfortable and atmospheric pub and bistro boasting over a hundred types of best-quality beer, lovingly preserved and served either inside or on the spacious terrasse. Full menu, including Sunday brunch. QB‑4, Mommsenstraße 45, Charlottenburg, MS Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 324 25 80, www.mommseneck.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. TB

The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, or Gedächtniskirche

WHAT DO YOU FANCY LOVE? Away from the posh cafes along the Ku’damm, try a relaxed cup of coffee, slice of cake, or healthy snack, juice or smoothie at ‘Fancy’.QKnesebeckstr. 68/69, Charlottenburg, www.whatdoyoufancylove.de. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Nightlife

ZWIEBELFISCH The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out the beer or coffee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC‑4, Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. NBSW HEFNER The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner prides itself on having the best selection of Martini cocktails in Berlin.QC‑4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg, MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefner-berlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB

BARS

PUBS

ALT BERLINER BIERSALON A favourite for many foreigners - a huge bar with cosy corners as well as areas where wild sports fans can watch a large screen. The bar serves well-priced German and international food as well as big breakfasts. Groups are welcome - actually you can fit 499 of your buddies plus yourself in here.QC‑4, Kurfüstendamm 225, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 884 39 90, www.alt-berliner-biersalon.de. Open 24hrs. €€. TUEGBSW

THE HARP A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of homemade burgers. On tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny, and a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports events to be beamed on screens, and there’s quiz nights

GREEN DOOR This dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded, green leather door protects those prone to bumping into things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up, and quite steady on their feet.QD‑5, Winterfeldstraße 50, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15, www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. 38 Berlin In Your Pocket

Union Jack

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Charlottenburg & the West and live music too. The pub can be booked for special occasions.QB‑4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, info@harppub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 15:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. €-€€. EBW UNION JACK With almost a thousand different whiskeys, Berlin’s premier Scottish pub is a must-visit for anyone with an interest in Scotland’s finest. The Union Jack is more than your standard British-style pub, holding frequent tastings, lectures and educational events to go alongside an unbeatable selection of whiskies from all around the world. Of course, Union Jack is a fine place for a more standard booze up, with plenty of ales, ciders, spirits and the rest for anyone not interested in Scotch. Anywhere with a decent selection of Walker’s crisps gets our approval.QC‑4, Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de. Open 19:00-24:00. Sunday 18:00 - 24:00.

Sightseeing LANDMARKS OLYMPIC STADIUM The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936 Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly floating roof whose translucent skin offers shelter for almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide, or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz 3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30 25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de, www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June - mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:0016:00. Admission €7/5. SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussia’s first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace in 1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter facade and central tower, took its final form in 1790. You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA‑3, Spandauer Damm 20-24, Charlottenburg, MU RichardWagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues closed. Admission €12/8, New Wing €6/5. Photo permit €3.

Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de Open 19:00 - 24:00

CHURCHES GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlin’s landmark attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Germany’s culpability is declared on a plaque: ‘The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of God’s judgement, which befell our people during the war years.’ The 1895 church was once a symbol of national pride: even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern chapel and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the amazing blue stained glass windows. Concerts take place every week, many of them free.QD‑4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00-19:00.

MUSEUMS BRÖHAN MUSEUM A stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and craft design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by so much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy and indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent collection (spanning 18891939) of porcelain, lamps, vases, and furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter Behrens and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions.QB‑3, Schloßstraße 1a, Charlottenburg, MU Sophie-Charlotte-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 69 06 00, www.broehanmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/4. February – March 2020 39

Charlottenburg & the West Shopping ADIDAS BRAND CENTER BERLIN A huge store selling the well-known Performance athlete’s range, including some items not on offer elsewhere, as well as Originals products and other leisure wear. Design your own colourful shoes with the hands-on mi-adidas touch screens, or test some trainers while doing computer sports games.QD‑4, Tauenzienstraße 15, Chalottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 0800 3773775. Open 10:0020:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-21:00; closed Sun.

Foodmarket Kantini

C/O BERLIN The famed C/O photo gallery is now based in the iconic Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There are multiple exhibitions on at any time, by both unknown and renowned photographers. Don’t miss the cafe and the museum shop either.QC‑4, Hardenbergstraße 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Admission €10/5. MUSEUM FÜR ASIATISCHE KUNST Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian Art museum has an impressive permanent collection of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and in the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art. Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy are of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts.QTakustraße 40, Zehlendorf, MU DahlemDorf, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3.

PARKS AND GARDENS

BIKINI BERLIN Right in the heart of West Berlin (directly next to the city’s zoo) is a place that goes beyond conventional architecture, urban planning and run-of-the-mill shopping destinations. We’re talking about Bikini Berlin, of course. This revitalised destination combines all those aspects of life, you know the ones, work, relaxation, accommodation and entertainment, and colours it all with unconventional shopping experiences. Bikini Berlin is totally unlike other shopping centres, a concept shopping mall that sees itself as a place of carefully curated and perfectly coordinated stores. There are also some great culinary offers to boot. QD‑4, Budapester Straße 38-50, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 55 49 64 54, www.bikiniberlin.de. ; closed Sun. SHOPS & BOXES | Mo - Sa 10:00 - 20:00 KANTINI FOODMARKET | Mo - Sa 09:00 - 21:00 ACCESS TO CONCEPT SHOPPING MALL | Mo - Sa 09:00 - 21:00 ROOFTOP TERRACE | Mo - Su 09:00 - 22:00. FINEST WHISKY Is your home bar in need of a spruce up? Whisky collection looking a little flat? Then its time to peruse what Finest Whisky has on its shelves, a range of spirits that make its self-explanatory name feel like something of an understatement. This is for connoisseurs, make no mistake about it, with whiskies from all over the globe available. Keep an eye on their website for the frequent (and highly recommended) tasting events.QWinterfeldtstrasse 48, tel. +49 (0)30 236 351 72, www.finestwhisky.de. Open 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; closed Sun.

TIERGARTEN This 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and waterways is the most genteel of Berlin’s parks, but it’s still a fine place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue, or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessäule (Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from 1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout point in the middle of the park. The park’s café and beer garden, Café am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end.QC/D/E‑3/4.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App Finest Whisky

40 Berlin In Your Pocket

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INTERNATIONAL SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service – what more does a meat-lover want? There’s a good choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian options.QI‑3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 24:00. €. TUNGBS

Nightlife BARS ASTRO-BAR A firm Friedrichshain favourite, this incredibly scruffy sci-fi themed bar is open late - very late - and serves good cocktails at great prices. Visited by a wild variety of people, weekend evenings are the best times to come, when DJs from Berlin’s underground party scene spin their electropop and retro records. No real dancefloor unfortunately, but nobody will stop you from just wiggling anywhere. It has an Attacks From Mars pinball machine. QI‑4, Simon-Dach-Straße 40, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße. Open from 20:00 - open end. DJs every night from 22:00. B CRACK BELLMER A barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for drinking however; there’s film screenings, and a good-sized space for dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the entrance at the southern end of Simon-Dach-Straße.QI‑4, Revaler Straße 99, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, www.crackbellmer.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. UNB

gaming history, including the Nimrom - the world’s first game computer - the Giant Joystick, Painstation, Arcade Hall, the legendary Pong machine, a Wall of Hardware and modern 3D games. With 300 exhibits, rare originals and working classics, you’re welcome to try out many games yourself. The gift shop is a gamer’s Alladin’s Cave: loads of good stuff from emoji cushions to PacMan ice cube trays. There is a public guided tour of the museum on Saturday (German language) and Sunday (English language), at 12:30pm. Tickets for the tour cost €4 (€3 concession), while a family tour ticket costs a bargain €5 per family. There are also reductions on normal entrance tickets if you come after 6pm (it is open until 8pm).QI‑3, Karl-MarxAllee 93a, Friedrichshain, MU Weberwiese, tel. +49 30 60 98 85 77, www.computerspielemuseum.de. Open 10:0020:00. Admission €9/6. STASI MUSEUM East Germany’s State Security Service or Stasi was responsible for intelligence gathering both at home and abroad. It spied on its own citizens, sometimes employing the friends, colleagues, and family of those they wished to keep an eye on. The museum in the former Stasi headquarters shows the office of Erich Mielke, the feared Stasi minister for 32 years, in its original dull state. Exhibitions, films and tours explain how the Stasi kept an eye on millions of citizens in the GDR and beyond.QRuschestraße 103, Haus 1, Lichtenberg, MU Magdalenenstraße, tel. +49 30 553 68 54, www.stasimuseum.de. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00. Admission €8/6/3.

Sightseeing MUSEUMS COMPUTERSPIELEMUSEUM Just five minutes from Alexanderplatz the world’s first computer games museum presents six epic decades of

February – March 2020 43

Prenzlauer Berg along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer Berg’s best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre, set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the west.

GETTING THERE

The U2 from Alexanderplatz feeds crowds onto Senefelderplatz and Eberswalder Straße, close to most attractions. From Museumsinsel and Friedrichstraße you can use tram M1 to Eberswalder Straße as well. U-Bahn station Bernauer Straße and S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof are most convenient for a stroll along the Wall Memorial to Mauerpark.

POCKET WALK

Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstraße from U-Bahn station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn into beautiful Husemannstraße, which was already restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistraße where you’ll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead; enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Straße and amble down Lychenerstraße to pretty, café-lined Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstraße west, turn left down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn station to Eberswalder Erich -W the popular Mauerpark and you’ll soonRo reach SchiStraße; velbeiner denb einertStend Str. with its excellent erg- Straße r. the top of Bernauer Wall Kug lers Schönhauser Allee s enstr. tr. DänMemorial. tr.

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Prenzlauer Berg Restaurants & Cafés ASIAN MRS ROBINSON’S Contemporary cuisine that isn’t afraid to wear its Asian influences on its sleeve, Mrs Robinson’s is a charmer of a bistro that is for people who take their food seriously, albeit seriously with a playful side. What it lacks in space it makes up in culinary experimentation, and we heartily recommend adding the homemade sriracha to whatever it is you choose to order. The desserts are another world entirely, you’ll have to trust us there. QPappelallee 29, MSchönhauser Allee, tel. +49 (0) 30 564 228 39, www. mrsrobinsons.de/. Closed Tue, Wed, 18:00 - 23:00.

GERMAN DIE SCHULE Modern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk. Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can have all the German food classics, and even better; you can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG‑2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-dieschule.de. Open 18:00-24:00. BW

DAILY 11.00 – 24.00

Modern and light German food on Berlin‘s catwalk no.1 KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLIN FON: (030) 78 00 89 5-50 info@restaurant-die-schule.de www.restaurant-die-schule.de U2

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FINE DINING UNSICHT-BAR BERLIN (NOCTI VAGUS) An utterly dark restaurant with themed dinners. After you order, blind and visually impaired waiters will seat you safely at your table, where you can stimulate all senses other than sight with the food and the live performances which include concerts and German-language poetry and mystery nights. On Mondays a four-course dinner is served at the reduced price of €50. Book ahead, mention if you’re an English-speaker, and set aside a few hours for the event.QG‑2, Saarbrücker Straße 36-38, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 74 74 91 23, www.unsicht-bar-berlin.de. Open 18:00-24:00. €€€€. AGE

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METZER ECK Opened 1913, time seems to have stood still in the oldest tavern in Prenzlauer Berg - and that’s the way the regulars like it. The Eck serves inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages, Boulette (hamburger), and Bratkartoffel (fried potatoes), and has a letter from artist Heinrich Zille to the first tavern owner hanging on the back wall, as well as a savings box that regulars once contributed to.QG‑2, Metzer Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 442 76 56, info@metzer-eck.de, www.metzer-eck.de. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €. NGBS

FAST FOOD KONNOPKE’S IMBISS The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin wrapping).QG‑1, Schönhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 77 65, www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. €. February – March 2020 45

Prenzlauer Berg CAFÉS ANNA BLUME Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha flower girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up coffee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts, it’s one of the better spots for people-watching or just reading. Intriguingly, it also sells flowers (Blume) from the connected shop next door – and the smell of coffee and fresh flowers combines very well.QH‑2, Kollwitzstraße 83, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 02:00.

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INTERNATIONAL GUGELHOF During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrification, the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state: Schröder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made surprise visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share the menu; this is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust Alsatian pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is friendly.QH‑2, Knaackstraße 37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 92 29, gugelhof@tonline.de, www.gugelhof.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A

ITALIAN PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB

SPANISH TRES TAPAS Open from early evening to early morning, with a Spanish brunch on offer Sundays, Tres Tapas is one of only a handful of Spanish restaurants in Prenzlauer Berg, and probably one of the best. Popular for its fresh fish dishes, it also tempts its guests with a wide range of tapas, decent to excellent Spanish wines, and young, friendly waiting staff.QH‑1, Lychener Straße 30, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 41 71 57 18, www.tres-tapas.de. Open 17:00-01:00. 46 Berlin In Your Pocket

SCHALL UND RAUCH ‘Noise and Smoke’ is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buffet on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar at night together with a variety of artists, students and young in-crowd. But it’s more than just a café - the adjacent hotel has modern and affordable double rooms.QG‑1, Gleimstraße 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.

Nightlife BARS AUGUST FENGLER A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there aren’t just football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley) too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco, and funk in the small back dance room.QG‑1, Lychner Straße 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. WEINSTEIN An older crowd savours an evening of conversation and wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor the 40 vintages available by the glass. There are few better places to try the outstanding German whites that usually don’t make it out of the country and there’s also a selection of sherries.QH‑1, Lychener Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 441 18 42, weinsten@weinstein.eu, www.weinstein.eu. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. WOHNZIMMER If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe would vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDRera tables are constantly being shuffled to make room for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s coffee and pastries in the morning.QH‑1, Lettestraße 6, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 - 04:00. berlin.inyourpocket.com

Prenzlauer Berg Full contents online: berlin.inyourpocket.com

CLUBS SODA CLUB In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played on Thursdays and Sundays (€5, starting off with a lesson hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays there’s five dancefloors with electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get in for free until 01:00. QSchönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 443 151 55, info@sodaberlin.de, www. soda-berlin.de. Open Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00 Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.

Sightseeing LANDMARKS KULTURBRAUEREI Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century brewery and you’ll eventually find an entryway into a nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is filled with bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only thing you won’t find is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to live bands.QG‑2, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52, www.kulturbrauerei.de.

MUSEUMS ZEISS PLANETARIUM The wonder of the planetarium is due a renaissance, and when it comes Berlin’s Zeiss Planetarium will be at the forefront. One of the last buildings built by the GDR, this is the most advanced of its kind in Europe and an absolute must for lovers of all things astronomy. The entire spectrum of natural sciences are embraced here, with a healthy dab of music, culture and more. Be aware that it is closed on Monday, but ready and waiting throughout the rest of the week.QPrenzlauer Allee 80, MPrenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 (0)30 421 845 10, www.planetarium.berlin/zeissgrossplanetarium. Open Tue 09:00 - 17:00, Wed - Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 21:30, Sat 13:00 - 21:30, Sun 11:30 - 18:30. Closed Mon. €8, students €6.

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Raumerstraße 8 +49 30 40301770 www.tausche.de

PARKS AND GARDENS MAUERPARK The immensely popular ‘Wall Park’ has no greenery to speak of; this is an intensely used piece of former border strip that’s especially busy on Sundays when it hosts a flea market and the immensely popular Bearpit Karaoke (every second Sunday from 15:00), where anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a crowd of thousands.QG‑1, Eberswalder Straße, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.mauerpark.info.

Shopping FASHION & SHOES TAUSCHE TASCHEN Looking for that perfect bag? Well, why not have a go at designing one yourself? Tausche offers just that, with plenty of ready-made options available as well. Simply choose your base, choose your flaps and finish it off with the inset, and off you go! Top quality bags and a whole lot of fun — what’s not to like?QH‑1, Raumerstraße 8, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 70, www.tausche.de. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Sun. February – March 2020 47

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POCKET WALK

Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through ‘little Istanbul’ to Oranienplatz and follow the park to the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to café-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn line to lively Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into Falckensteinstraße to discover more of Kreuzberg’s street art, or head south along Ohlauer Straße and across Landwehrkanal into the trendy ‘Kreuzkölln’ district for cupcakes and cocktails.

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Those who care to look will see beyond the partyimage Kreuzberg has long been associated with – it is a myth gleefully perpetuated by tourist guides and guidebooks and one that Kreuzberg doesn’t need to make it attractive. It is attractive not because it is unruly, unkempt or eager to party – there is so very much more to it than that.

GETTING THERE

Everyone knows Kreuzberg, the former sixth borough of Berlin that enjoys a reputation for being unruly, unkempt and eager to party. But although it might be all of those things, it is also so much more. The elevated railway line, U1, has been weaving its way since 1902 when the MITTE world-famous engineering company Siemens & Halske constructed it here as a test project for the rest of Berlin. The line partly runs along another famous Kreuzberg feature, the Landwehrkanal. The canal built flows lazily through Kreuzberg and towards Tiergarten, providing beautiful scenery for lazy summer afternoons on its banks and an opportunity for pretty much unperturbed cruises in inflatable boats or canoes. In the evenings its bridges often become venues for impromptu concerts of yetundiscovered artists.

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Kreuzberg Restaurants & Cafés ASIAN CHAN A sleek eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, cleancut design, and a surprising menu consisting of typical Asian street food. There’s everything from Thai spring rolls, Indonesian sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a Vietnamese banana dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies too.QH‑5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 69 53 33 22, www.chanberlin.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. €€. UNGBSW

of the authentic self-service atmosphere; wait till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are flown in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. There’s seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße 88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 24:00. €. VBS

KINNAREE THAI Named after a mythological creature representing female beauty and grace, Kinnaree is a friendly and affordable Thai restaurant serving everything from Satay Gai chicken skewers in peanut sauce to spicy green curry with shrimps and bamboo. There’s a range of cocktails and quality wines too.QSüdstern 14, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 57 79 41 99, www.kinnaree-thai.de. Open 12:00–23:00, Sat 13:00– 23:00. PAGODE Simply one of the best Thai restaurants in town. It feels crowded, steamy and noisy, but that’s just part

Pagode is one of the best Thai joints in town

February – March 2020 49

Kreuzberg GERMAN ALTES ZOLLHAUS A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs house along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try regional specialities featuring things such as goat’s cheese, dumplings, mustard sauce and compotes. QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 33 00, www.altes-zollhaus.com. Open 18:00 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€. TUGBW HENNE Who knew that the Germans fried chicken? Other than a few Wursts, chicken is all that’s served in this cosy corner tavern, along with sides of coleslaw and mayonnaise-filled potato salad. The crisp, salty skin gives you another reason for quaffing yet another beer or wine. For a few euros, you get a lot of wood-paneled atmosphere.QH‑4, Leuschnerdamm 25, Kreuzberg, MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 614 77 30, www.henne-berlin.de. Open Tues-Sat from 19:00; Sun 17:00-22:00. Mon closed. €€. NGBS Yes, yes, yes. Inject this into our veins, please. A gorgeous sunset shot of the Oberbaum Bridge with the TV Tower in the background. Take our money, all of it. © elxeneize

NANUM Excellent Korean lunch (plus dinner on Friday and Saturday) in a modern café opposite the Jewish Museum. Beside the classic and colourfully presented bibimbap dish, the weekly changing menu lists items like dumplings, soup and various other freshly made lunch options, priced from €8,50. The owners can bake as well as cook... pottery in this case, as the gorgeous ceramic plates and cups are home-made and can be purchased to take home.QLindenstr. 90, MKochstrasse, tel. 0177 208 47 85, www.nanumberlin.com. Open 12:0019:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-22:30, Closed Sun.

FAST FOOD CURRY 36 If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, you’ll order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, but you might earn an iota of respect from the hard-boiled Fraus who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin specialities you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables are the fried burgers, Boulette.QF‑5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, www.curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. €. S

SAROD’S Kreuzberg’s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent, healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat with roast rice, coriander and spices). There’s a good selection of wines too.QFriesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. TGBSW

GLÜCK TO GO This unusual fast-food restaurant was inspired by a trip to India’s Gujarat province and serves happiness to go: delicious protein-rich vegetarian/vegan burgers, fries with ayurvedic spices, and healthy juice concoctions; all home-made with organic and regionally sourced ingredients. The delicious Orient Express burger has beet root, spices and special date chutney, and there’s three other burgers to choose from. Finish off with a low-fat Shrikhand yoghurt. Set menus from €6-8,50.QF‑5, Friesenstraße 26, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 623 10 04, www.glueck-togo.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-20:00. €. B

AUSTRIAN

INTERNATIONAL

AUSTRIA Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and antlers on the wall.QF‑5, Bergmannstraße 30, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www.austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€. TUBS

ANKERKLAUSE The bohemians that hang out here are late-risers who come to watch the Turkish market unfold and witness how peacefully gulls, swans and cruise boats can co-exist. On a good day, the French toast with fruit can come out looking like it’s auditioning for the Waldorf-Astoria’s buffet. The Mexican breakfast will tide you over for two meals.QH‑5, Kottbusser Damm 104, Neukölln, MU Schönleinstraße, tel. +49 30 693 56 49, www.ankerklause.de. Open 10:0004:00, Mon 16:00-04:00. €. TUNGB

50 Berlin In Your Pocket

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Kreuzberg HOPPETOSSE An elegant white ship moored along Treptow’s Arena complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional and international meals to go with good sunset views towards Oberbaumbrücke bridge, just upstream. For daytime visitors there’s drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit up on deck to catch the sea breeze.QI‑5, Eichenstraße 4, Treptow, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03 40, www.arena-berlin.de. Open 12:00-23:00. €-€€. NG BSW VAN LOON Where better to eat fish than at this lovely restaurant ship, moored in the peaceful Urbanhafen habour on the Landwehrkanal: the downstairs lounge has large windows, but the view’s better from the sundeck. There’s salmon, herring and smoked fish specialities as well as a range of special fish & chips. The daily menu has meat, vegetarian and vegan meals too.QG‑5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 7, Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstraße, tel. +49 30 692 62 93, www.vanloon. de. Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. TENGBW

ITALIAN AMICI AMICI This is an amazing Italian restaurant which since it opened in 2006 has become recognised as one of the best in the city, and yet it retains an unpretentious air of authenticity. From the chequered tablecloths to the daily specials prepared in the open kitchen behind the counter this place gets so much right that other, more expensive Berlin Italians get wrong. The food is Sicilian, with a rich mix of fantastic fresh ingredients used to make everything: it is all bio, and all the real deal. This is a good-time eatery: bring a group and settle in for a long evening.QF5, Mehringdamm 40, MU Mehringdamm, tel. 030 746 841 21, www.amici-amici.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. GORGONZOLA CLUB An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest carpaccio we’ve had, and with lovely seating in the green outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner cocktails simply go next door to the Würgeengel bar.QH‑4, Dresdener Straße 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €. B OSTERIA N°1 Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture has a fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from different parts of Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in town, too. Choose from six different lunch menus from €7.QF‑5, Kreuzbergstraße 71, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. B

Hagelberger Str. 9, 10965 Berlin – Kreuzberg tupac-berlin.com Tue - Sat 18:00 - 23:00

LATIN-AMERICAN TUPAC BERLIN (- COCINA LIBRE -) Creativity and cultured cuisine collide at Berlin’s newest Peruvian restaurant. Tupac is fresh on the scene and you might want to give it a go before the rest of the world finds out, it can be your own little secret, although it won’t stay hidden forever. Be sure to make a reservation ahead of time too. Colourful Latin American cuisine with a Peruvian twist served in a quite magnificent garden — Tupac is on to something special here.QF‑5, Hagelbergerstraße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.tupac-berlin.com/. Open 18:00-23:00; closed Sun, Mon. €€-€€€. GTBSW

February – March 2020 51

Kreuzberg BEER GARDENS BRLO BRWHOUSE This is about as cutting-edge as it gets, which is quite the claim when you consider how on point Berlin tends to be. The Brlo Brwhouse is a craft beer paradise in the centre of the city, a restaurant and brewery in one with one of the capital’s finest beer gardens. The name comes from the Slavic origins of the word ‘Berlin’, adding a historical credibility to some of the city’s best beer. The beer selection is as impressive as you imagine, and the food more than holds its end of the bargain. Qwww.brlo-brwhouse.de/. Open 17:00-00:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-00:00; closed Mon, Fri.

a stunner of a spot serving excellent brews and glorious sweet treats to go along with the coffee, a match made in whatever heaven presumes to be. The cafe follows the design lineage of the retail shop in Mitte, so expect style in abundance. QReichenberger Str. 101, tel. +49 (0)30 960 815 27, www.fiveelephant.com. Open 08:30-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00.

Nightlife BARS

BELLE ALLIANCE COFFEE Fresh, seasonal food cooked in a modern, contemporary setting in Kreuzberg. The menu changes more or less every day, and there will always be something to take your fancy. Great coffee, cracking wines and an atmosphere as relaxed as they come. The team who run the place have done a fantastic job in creating a venue that does Berlin dining as it really ought to be.QF‑5, Merhingdamm 56, MU Merhingdamm, tel. +49 30 23 94 82 38. Open 10:00 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PTVBSW

DESTILLE KREUZBERG The kind of bar and pub that has been responsible for making Kreuzberg such a fantastic location. Serving great beer - there is a huge selection, including one of the best pints of Guinness in all Berlin - alongside 30odd brandies and just about anything you want. There’s good pub food too, and the crowd which gathers here is as cosmopolitan and bohemian as you could wish for: builders rub shoulders with drag queens, Hollywood directors and football fans: this is a great place to watch live sports, amongst much else.QMehringdamm 67, MU Platz der Luftbrucke, tel. 30 692 51 24. Open 14:00-01:00.

CAFÉ SAROTTI-HÖFE Lovely Kreuzberg café with a large terrace, a bistrorestaurant serving snacks and meals, and a bar with beers and cocktails. Drop by for coffee with a slice of cake from the brunch buffet (choose from 30 varieties). At Sunday brunchtime they switch on the chocolate fountain, filled with Sarotti chocolate of course, as this building was once their factory.QF‑5, Mehringdamm 53-57, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 60 03 16 80, www.cafesarottihoefe.de. Open 24hrs.

FREISCHWIMMER After a five-minute walk south of Schlesisches Tor, follow the bush-lined pathway left after the petrol station to this peaceful bar that hovers over a side canal. In summer use the comfy deck lounges; in cooler weather heat lamps help keep away the chill.QI‑5, Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 07 43 09, www.freischwimmer-berlin. de. Open Mo-Fri from 12:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. TUENGBW

FIVE ELEPHANTS Quality coffee and cakes. The listing should end there really, right? Five Elephant is a Kreuzberg cafe from our dreams,

GALANDER A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF‑4, Grossbeerenstraße 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E

CAFÉS

Kreuzberg is full of impressive murals, here by HERAKUT © picknickfrunk

52 Berlin In Your Pocket

WÜRGEENGEL Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuel’s film El Ángel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a dozen tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over 50 reasons to delay your departure. To round it all off, there are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.QH‑4, Dresdener Straße 122, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00. €€. B berlin.inyourpocket.com

Kreuzberg JAZZ CLUBS YORCKSCHLÖSSCHEN This Kreuzberg institution has been here for over a century, gathering fame in the 1970s as an artists’ watering hole and now a hub of local social life. There’s a busy bar that features regular live music, with the emphasis on traditional jazz, swing and black rhythm’n’blues. Concerts take place on Wed, Fri and Sat night and Sun afternoon. Diner here is very nicely priced.QF‑5, Yorckstraße 15, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 215 80 70, www.yorckschloesschen.de. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 03:00. €€. TBESW

CLUBS JUNCTION BAR Squeezing onto the bat-cave of a stage is fine for a fourman blues band, but dios mio for the ten-piece AfroCuban ensembles. Live music draws an ethnically and generationally mixed audience every night of the week. After the band, a DJ keeps everyone tight on the dance floor.QF‑5, Gneisenaustraße 18, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 694 66 02, www.junctionbar.de. Open 20:00-04:00. ENGB WATERGATE This club right on the edge of the Spree River is great for spying on Universal Music headquarters across the water, even if the crowd here would never dance to their pop artists. Also in view (and right next door) is the turreted Oberbaumbrücke, which makes an odd backdrop to techno, house, or any guest DJ on the upper or lower dance floors.QI‑4, Falckensteinstraße 49, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 28 03 94, www.water-gate.de. Open Wed, Fri, Sat from 24:00. Admission €8-12. UENGB WILD AT HEART Rock on. One of Berlin’s rare live-music venues brings in hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. There’s an occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs for the stage area.QH‑5, Wiener Straße 20, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www.wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB

PUBS CLASH Punk as the proverbial. Clash is everything we want Berlin pubs to be – full of character, charm, morals and more, with everything at an appreciably low price in order to encourage plenty of enjoyment. Good music, good people, good times – what more could we want?QGneisenaustraße 2A, tel. +49 (0)30 325 263 87, www.clash-berlin.de/. Open 12:00-05:00; Fri 12:00-06:00; Sat 18:30-06:00; closed Sun.

They party long and they party hard in Kreuzberg © Yorckschlösschen

Sightseeing MUSEUMS DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM Not just one of Berlin’s best museums, this place is one of Europe’s top science attractions. It is unmistakably recognisable by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended high above the main building. Spread over a huge area, the Deutsches Technikmuseum is a vast complex set in and around an old freight station rail depot and has planes, trains, cars, bikes, computers, phones, radios and much, much more. Individual exhibitions cover every aspect of technology, from the founding of the printing press to space exploration. There are thousands of hands-on exhibits, and kids of all ages will love it. The highlight for us has always been the exhibition of 40 original trains and locomotives, on display at the former Anhalter Bahnhof station at the museum’s rear.QF‑4, Trebbiner Straße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40, www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/4. Tickets also valid for the Spectrum Science Centre. JÜDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many ways in which German life and Jewish history are intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark ‘voids’ for contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF‑4, Lindenstraße 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:0020:00. Admission €8/3. Family ticket €14 (2 adults and up to 4 children). Children up to 6 years of age free. MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this is the work of Martin Gropius, great uncle of Walter Gropius, a founder of the Bauhaus school of design. The building was completed in 1881 and originally served as a royal art museum. Like most of central Berlin, it ended the war in a badly damaged state and wasn’t re-opened until 1981. Today, under the auspices of the Berliner Festspiele, the Martin-Gropius-Bau hosts excellent touring exhibitions.QF‑4, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. February – March 2020 53

Kreuzberg and discusses their organisation and the terror they cast across Europe. The most important lesson to take home is perhaps that these organisation only managed to thrive thanks to the continuous cooperation of many institutes and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF‑4, Niederkirchnerstraße 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission free.

PARKS & GARDENS GÖRLITZER PARK A lively 14-hectare park on the site of a railway station that was demolished after it was cut off from its destination by the Wall. The ‘Görli’ has fields, lakes, a petting zoo, the Edelweiss beer garden and a thriving trade in smokable flora. On a balmy afternoon, there’s no better place to be in Kreuzberg.QH/I‑5, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof.

The iconic Martin Gropius Bau

SPECTRUM SCIENCE CENTRE Kids will love this place, offering more than 150 handson exhibits and experiments spread over four floors of a glorious former old industrial building next to the Deutsches Technikmuseum. Why is the sky blue? Can you see heat? Any why does a plane stay up in the sky? These are just three of the hundreds of questions that you will able to have answered at the Science Centre. You can also learn how to play a laser guitar, although the hall of mirrors will probably the biggest delight of a visit here.QF‑4, Möckernstrasse 26, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 42 84, www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/4. Tickets also valid for the Deutsches Technikmuseum.

VIKTORIAPARK Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to the corner of Kreuzbergstraße and Großbeerenstraße for an eyeful of the park’s waterfall, constructed in the late 19th century. Kids stripped to their knickers wade in between the shallow, tiered levels. 65 metres above, people lean back against the graffiti-laden monument to take in the panoramic view. Towards the back of the park, past a playground and off the Bacci field, is the Golgotha beer garden. Running parallel to Kreuzbergstraße is a small petting zoo where children and goats get to meet and bleat.QF‑5, Kreuzbergstraße, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm.

THE BERLIN STORY It can often be difficult to get a true sense for the history of a city, especially somewhere as daunting as Berlin. Luckily for all visitors, the Berlin Story is here to help. This is an excellent museum, interactive on all levels and full of insightful coverage of this great city and its long history. It isn’t afraid to face the difficult subjects too, with a bunker exhibition questioning how Hitler was able to rise to power ahead of World War II, warning generations to come of how easy it is to sleepwalk into barbarism. Captivating stuff. QSchöneberger Strasse 23A, tel. +49 30 265 555 46, www.berlinstory.de. Open 10:00-19:00. Admission €5. TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars are all that remain of the palace housing the Reich Security (SS) Office. The fascinating exhibition in the trench and the adjacent pavilion and park uses models, texts and photos to highlight the topography of the Third Reich police, military and security groups that were headquartered in this area, 54 Berlin In Your Pocket

Kreuzberg Viktoriapark

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Wellness

The Oderberger Baths are back with a vengeance | © Martin Nicholas Kunz

With dozens of wellness centres, Berliners are spoiling themselves like never before. A day-pass at most places means at least a work-out with state-of-the-art machines, swimming pool, whirlpool and sauna, if not three. To that you can add massages of every imaginable kind (from ‘deep tissue’ for the particularly tense, to oriental, aromatic candlelit or bubble massages… and then some) and then a midway ‘relaxation room’ where you can lay back and slowly prepare to return to the real world. Go on, get soaked. Berlin In Your Pocket is not responsible for wrinkly fingers.

SPA LIQUIDROM Try out ‘urban bathing’ at this combination of a deluxe spa with quirky extras. Apart from the impressive domed warm salt water pool there are saunas and Roman baths, a sunny Japanese terrace with an onsen bath, massages and a hamam ceremony. Float around to a relaxing light and music show with live music performed on Thursdays to Saturdays. Music includes DJ sets, Jazz, electronic music, harp and didgeridoo.QF‑4, Möckernstrasse 10, Kreuzberg, MS Anhalter Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 258 00 78 20, www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Admission from €20 for 2 hours. SULTAN HAMAM That rarity in Berlin: a Turkish bath oriented towards women. Luxurious and palatial this is the perfect place to

come to be totally pampered by a huge range of massages, beauty treatments, all offered alongside the amazing steam rooms and saunas. Treat yourself!QBülowstraße 56-57, MYorckstrasse, tel. +49 (0)30 21 75 33 75, www. sultanhamamberlin.de. Open Women only, Tue, Thu, Sun 11:00 - 22:00, Wed 11:00 - 16:45, Fri, Sat 11:00 23:00, Men: Mon, 14:00 - 23:00 / Men and Women Wed, 17:00 - 22:00. From €19 to €159. VABALI A corner of Indonesia in Berlin, Vabali is a luxurious Balinese-style spa and wellness centre just north of the Hauptbahnhof station with saunas, pools, garden, rest areas, many optional treatments, a restaurant and even DaySpa suites.QSeydlitzstr. 6, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 911 48 60, www.vabali.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00. From €22,50 for 2hrs.

SWIMMING POOLS ODERBERGER STADTBAD After being out of service for three decades, the beautiful and historical Oderberger baths have been renovated, and supplemented by a spa and hotel. The 20-metre pool is open five days per week for swimmers; check the opening hours beforehand.QOderberger Str. 57, Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 30 81 82 80 76 76, www.hotel-oderberger.berlin. Admission pool €6/4, with sauna €15. February – March 2020 55

Neukölln In 1863 a Turkish cemetery was created north of Rixdorf, the successor of a smaller burial ground in Kreuzberg established in 1798 for the Turkish members of the Prussian Army. It contains the remains of the Ottoman ambassador Giritli Ali Aziz Efendi, the exiled Grand Vizier Mehmed Talat and Bahattin Şakir. No wonder Neukölln was one of the first districts of Berlin Turks headed for when many settled in the city in the 1960s. Even after being incorporated into Greater Berlin in 1920 Neukölln remained infamous for its decadence: the most decadent part of what at the time was perhaps the most decadent city in Europe.

Flight apron with “Rosinenbomber” © berlinkompakt.de, Tempelhof Airport Tours

Part of the American sector of West Berlin from 19451990, Neukölln has the largest immigrant population in Berlin (at around 40 per cent) and is a lively, exciting melting pot of multicultural diversity. So much so in fact that Neukölln is one of the Council of Europe’s pilot intercultural cities. You will see the fact reflected in the area’s street food. Once known as Little Istanbul there are more kebab shops per square metre than anywhere else in Berlin. All this alongside expensive restaurants, highend cafes and artists studios: Neukölln is the new centre of creative Berlin. Get there now before everyone moves on again.

Berlin is home to many wonderful unique districts which often go unexplored by the uninitiated. Every now and then, however, one of these inner-city ortsteil (as they are known in German) gets a chance to shine. Hard as it is to imagine now but Kreuzberg - now as hip and trendy and on-thebeaten-track as they come - was once given a wide berth by visitors to Berlin. The new Kreuzberg, and the latest ortsteil locals really don’t want you to find out about is Neukölln, south of the city centre, particularly the area bordered by Karl Marx Strasse, Flughafenstrasse and Hermanstrasse. Given a new lease of life in recent years by the same artists, students and migrants who once made Kreuzberg famous and diverse (but have now been forced out by fiercely climbing rents), Neukolln so resembles the Kreuzberg of a few years ago that Berliners have given it the nickname Kreuzkolln. Rei c

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56 Berlin In Your Pocket

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GETTING THERE

Take the U-bahn to Rathaus Neukölln, found in the heart of the main commercial area of Neukölln.

S Sonnenallee

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Neukölln Restaurants GERMAN PAULINSKI PALME It takes a lot of care and devotion to create a genuine homely atmosphere in a modern day restaurant, but that is exactly what we find at Paulinski Palme. The brainchild of two Berlin foodie veterans, this new spot in Neukölln is a real stunner, whether you are talking about the ambience or the magic that is found on the plate. An excellent choice for breakfast or a romantic dinner, this won’t be a hidden gem for very long.QRichardstraße 76, MKarl-Marx-Strasse, tel. +49 (0)30 983 708 12, www.paulinskipalme.de. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Closed Tue, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

ITALIAN CALIGARI A charming Italian bistro in the awakening Schillerkiez neighbourhood of Neukölln, with freshly made pasta, soups, salads and deserts. They’re planning Supper Club nights too, in which all kinds of wonderful things could happen.QKienitzer Str. 110, Neukölln, tel. +49 30 52 64 98 41, www.caligariberlin.de. Open 18:00 - 23:00.

INTERNATIONAL GEIST IM GLAS A popular Neukölln bar at night, Geist im Glas does a good impression of Clark Kent taking off his glasses once the weekend comes. This is one of the best weekend brunch spots in the city, with plenty of pancakes, waffles and more on offer. Geist im Glas even does a fine version of biscuits and gravy, so if you find yourself hankering for the American classic in Berlin, now you know where to go. Keep in mind that this is a cash only spot.QLenaustraße 27, MSchönleinstrasse, tel. +49 (0)176 553 304 50, www.geistimglas.berlin/. Mon - Wed 19:00 - 02:00, Thu & Fri 19:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun, 10:00 - 02:00.

SCANDINAVIAN PALSTA Neukölln is a right charmer, with many of the city’s best restaurants found in its lively streets. Palsta Wine Bar deserves its spot on that list, a graceful little Nordic wine bistro that serves up some of the finest seafood in the German capital. The city has been crying out for a top tier Scandinavian style food hub for a while, and Palsta is here to fill the gap. QOderstraße 52, tel. +49 (0)176 223 306 05, www. palstawinebar.de. Open 18:30-23:00; closed Mon, Sun.

CAFÉS CAFÉ RIX A fabulous café that’s completely worth the trek out to Berlin’s shabbiest and most multicultural neighbourhood.

Many entertainment halls were built in this part of town, attracting thousands of Berliners at weekends. Rix is one of the last remaining entertainment halls in the area, dating from 1880 and all gold twirls, high ceilings and big mirrors. It’s just perfect for sipping coffee and munching on cake, or for a well-prepared meal. Combine it with a concert at the adjacent Heimathafen or a visit to Rixdorf’s old village square and the lush Körnerpark.QKarl-Marx-Straße 141, Neukölln, MU Karl-Marx-Straße, tel. +49 30 686 90 20, www.caferix.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TUNGBSW

Nightlife BARS CODA DESSERT BAR The kind of place Neukolln has recently become known for, except here they have done it better than ever. A dessert bar? Yep, it is exactly what it says: a bar serving avant-garde, experimental desserts created by a top team of chefs. To get the best out of the place, go for the tasting menu, which offers six amazing taste sensations for €65. Pair it with six sepcially mixed drinks for an extra €33.QFriedelstrasse 47, Neukolln, MU Hermannplatz, tel. (+49) 30 914 963 96, www.coda-berlin.com. Open 19:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PBSW DAS GIFT Possibly the most quintessential Neukolln bar around. Artsy, hip, achingly trendy and yet perfectly welcoming to just about everyone, you will notice a Scottish theme: the owner is a Scot. Expect some food and drink to remind you of the Highlands, not the least of which is an almost unmatched selection of whiskies. Service is fabulous, and though prices are far from cheap, the crowd that thrings here loves the place, as do we.QDonaustrasse 119, dasgift.tumblr.com. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. PBSW

Parks TEMPELHOFER FREIHEIT Where else can you run for five minutes with your eyes closed? Berlin’s most amazing space is this historic and wide open airport just south of Kreuzberg, which closed in 2008 and was opened as a park in 2010. Now the runways and taxi lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters and kiteboarders; the fields around them are used by rare breeding skylarks (from April-July), picnickers, barbecuers, artists, kite-flyers, gardeners and dog-walkers. There’s even a Biergarten at the northern end. Note that turnstiles allow exit from the park after closing time as well. Also easily accessed from U-Bahn stations Tempelhof and Boddinstrasse. QF/G‑6, Columbiadamm, MS/U Tempelhof, www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open March 06:00-19:00, April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May & Aug 06:00-21:30, June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:00-19:00, Dec, Jan 07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00. Admission free. February – March 2020 57

City Tours

B ERLINER U NTERWELTEN E.V. Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture

Berlin from below Cold War and WW II bunker tours

Different tours every day • see: www.berliner-unterwelten.de Subway: Gesundbrunnen (U8), southern entrance-hall • Brunnenstraße 105 Anzeige in your pocket 2011.indd1 1

There’s a story on every corner in Berlin, though you’ll need a guide to hear it. It’s a huge, fascinating city and attractions are fairly far-flung, so plan your itinerary well. If you’re here for a limited amount of time, we highly recommend you join one of the walking or cycling tours to get your bearings.

WALKING & CYCLING TOURS TEMPELHOF AIRPORT- GUIDED TOURS One of the 20th century’s great pieces of ideological architecture, Tempelhof Airport has seen it all. The building itself began life as Nazi ideology in airport form, and it served as a production site for weaponry

BERLIN UNDERWORLDS

15.01.2011 6:58:28 Uhr

during World War II. Everything changed after the war as Tempelhof became a symbol of freedom, famously taking center stage during the Berlin Airlifts of 1948/49. The best way to engage and experience the history of this iconic spot is through an official guided tour, telling the secret story behind Tempelhof Airport. Be aware that the tour unfortunately isn’t wheelchair accessible and stairs involved — sturdy shoes are wholeheartedly recommended.QTempelhofer Damm 9, MU6, Platz der Luftbrücke, Paradestraße, tel. +49 30 200 03 74 -41, www.thf-berlin.de/fuehrungen. Open 09:0017:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-16:00. The starting times for the tours you will find online. Adults €15, Students (from 15) €10, Children (from 6 to 14) €7.

You can visit bunkers from the Nazi era on the Dark Worlds tour or on the Flaktower tour, take in civil defence and nuclear fall-out shelters from the Cold War in the Subways and Bunkers in the Cold War tour or hear the stories of the people who tunnelled to freedom in the Under the Berlin Wall tour.QF‑1, Brunnenstraße 105, Wedding, MS/U Gesundbrunnen, tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17, www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Tickets are available in the ticket- and bookshop at the south entrance of Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station. Tickets for the tours cost between €11 and €14 (with discount €9 - €11), as of 2018, €12 - €15 (disc. €10 - €12). Entrance to the Myth of Germania exhibition costs €6/€5 (€3 if bought in combination with a tour).

BERLINER UNTERWELTEN (UNDERWORLDS) Berliner Unterwelten (Berlin Underworlds) allow you to experience Berlin´s history from an unusual perspective, through its underground installations dating back to the Cold War, WWII or earlier. Besides the fascinating Myth of Germania exhibition about the Nazi´s plans for restructuring Berlin into the world´s capital (open Apr – Oct: Thu - Sun 11:00 – 18:00; Nov – Mar: Sat & Sun 11:00– 16:00), there are different subterranean tours available in German, English and several other languages. Many of them run all the year, not all tours in all languages are held every day. 58 Berlin In Your Pocket

berlin.inyourpocket.com

GUIDED TOURS TEMPELHOF AIRPORT

Tempelhof Airport is a striking testimony to 20th century world history. We will show you the most fascinating parts of the building. INFORMATION AND TICKETS: WWW.THF-BERLIN.DE/FUEHRUNGEN U-Bahn: U6 / Bus: 248 + 104 Platz der LuftbrÃ¼cke

Directory & Street Register CULTURAL CENTRES

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

GOETHE-INSTITUT Where better to learn German and dive deep into German culture than in the very heart of the country’s capital? The Goethe-Institut Berlin is situated in the Berlin Mitte district, close to the Hackesche Höfe, the thriving cluster of courtyards bordered by offices, apartments, galleries, workshops, cafés and shopping. There are individual and group German classes for all levels, during the day, in the evening or at the weekend: there is bound to be a course to fit your schedule. But note that this place is far more than a language school. Tens of events every week will bring German culture to life via some amazing lectures, talks and tours.QNeue Schönhauser Straße 20, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 25 90 63, fax +49 30 25906-400, www.goethe.de/berlin.

Emergencies, ambulance, fire tel. +49 30 112; Emergency doctor service tel. +49 30 31 00 31; Police tel. +49 30 110; Non-urgent police matters tel. +49 30 46 64 46 64.

UNITED KINGDOM QF-3, Wilhelmstraße 70-71, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 45 70, www.britischebotschaft.de. USA American Citizen Services: tel. 832 92 33.QF-3, Pariser Platz 2, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 830 50, www.usembassy.de.

EMBASSIES

HOSPITALS

AUSTRALIA QG-3, Wallstraße 76-79, Mitte, MU Märkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80, www.australian-embassy.de.

BENJAMIN FRANKLIN CLINICAL CENTRE QKlingsorstraße, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel. +49 30 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.fu-berlin.de.

IRELAND QF-3, Jägerstraße 51, Mitte, MU Hausvogteiplatz, tel. +49 30 22 07 20, www.embassyofireland.de.

CHARITÉ UNIVERSITÄTSKLINIKUM QF-3, Schumannstraße 20-21, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 45 050, www.charite.de.

Ackerstraße F/G‑2 Adalbertstraße H‑4 Admiralstraße G/H‑5 Albrechtstraße F‑3 Alexanderplatz G‑3 Alexanderstraße G‑3 Alexanderufer F‑2/3 Alexandrinenstraße F‑4 Alt-Moabit C‑3/E‑3 Alte Jakobstraße F‑4 Alte Schönhauser Straße G‑2 Altonaer Straße D‑3 Am Friedrichshain H‑2 Am Karlsbad F‑4 Am Kupfergraben F‑3 Am Ostbahnhof H‑4 Anhalter Straße F‑4 Arndtstraße F‑5 Augsburger Straße C/D‑4 Auguststraße F/G‑2 Axel-Springer-Straße F‑4 Barnimstraße H‑2/3 Baruther Straße F‑5 Bayerischer Platz D‑5 Bebelplatz F‑3 Behrenstraße F‑3 Belforter Straße G/H‑2 Bergmannstraße F/G‑5 Bernauer Straße F/G‑1/2 Bethaniendamm H‑4 Beusselstraße C‑2 Bismarckstraße B/C‑3/4 Bleibtreustraße C‑4 Blücherstraße F/G‑5 Bodestraße F‑3 Bötzowstraße H/I‑2 Brandenburger Tor F‑3 Breitscheidplatz C‑4 Brückenstraße H‑3/4 Brunnenstraße F/G‑1/2 Bülowstraße E‑4/5 Bundesallee C‑4/6 Charlottenstraße F‑3/4 Chausseestraße F‑2 Choriner Straße G‑2 Christinenstraße G‑2 Danziger Straße G‑1/I‑2

60 Berlin In Your Pocket

Dorotheenstraße F‑3 Dresdener Straße G‑4 Dunckerstraße H‑1 Ebertstraße F‑3 Engeldamm H‑4 Erkelenzdamm F‑4 Ernst-Reuter-Platz C‑3 Fasanenstraße C‑4/5 Fehrbelliner Straße G‑2 Fischerinsel G‑3 Französische Straße F‑3 Friedensstraße H‑2/3 Friedrichstraße F‑3/4 Gartenstraße F‑1/2 Gendarmenmarkt F‑3 Georgenkirchstraße H‑2/3 Georgenstraße F‑3 Gertraudenstraße G‑3 Geschw.-Scholl-Straße F‑3 Gipsstraße G‑2 Gitschiner Straße F‑4 Glinkastraße F‑3 Gneisenaustraße F/G‑5 Görlitzer Straße H/I‑4/5 Görlitzer Ufer I‑5 Gormannstraße G‑2 Greifswalder Straße H/I‑1/2 Grolmannstraße C‑4 Großbeerenstraße F‑5 Große Hamburger Straße G‑2/3 Gruner Straße G‑3 Hallesches Ufer F‑4 Hardenbergplatz C‑4 Heidestraße E‑2 Heinrich-Heine-Straße F‑4 Heinrichplatz H‑4 Hohenstaufenstraße D‑5 Immanuelkirchstraße H‑2 Invalidenstraße E‑3/G‑2 Johannisstraße F‑3 John-Foster-Dulles-Allee E‑3 Kaiserdamm A/B‑4 Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee B/C‑2 Kantstraße B/C‑4 Karl-Liebknecht-Straße G‑3 Karl-Marx-Allee G/H/I‑3 Kastanienallee G‑2

Kl. Hamburger Straße F‑2 Kleiststraße D/E‑4 Knaackstraße H‑2 Knesebeckstraße C‑4 Kochstraße F‑4 Kollwitzplatz H‑2 Kollwitzstraße G/H‑2 Konstanzer Straße B‑4/5 Köpenicker Straße H/I‑4 Kottbusser Damm H‑5 Kottbusser Straße H‑5 Krausnickstraße G‑3 Kreuzbergstraße F‑5 Kurfürstendamm A‑5/C‑4 Kurfürstenstraße D/E‑4 Landsberger Allee H/I‑2 Lausitzer Straße H‑4/5 Legiendamm H‑4 Leipziger Platz F‑4 Leipziger Straße F/G‑4 Leuschnerdamm H‑4 Lindenstraße F/G‑4 Linienstraße F/G‑2 Lobeckstraße F‑4 Luisenstraße F‑2/3 Lützowufer D/E‑4 Manteuffelstraße H‑4/5 Marburger Straße D‑4 Mariannenplatz H‑4 Marienstraße F‑3 Markgrafenstraße F‑3/4 Martin-Luther-Straße D‑4/6 Matthäikirchstraße E‑4 Mauerstraße F‑3/4 Maybachufer H‑5 Mehringdamm F‑5 Mehringplatz F‑4 Meinekestraße C‑4 Melchiorstraße H‑4 Metzer Straße G/H‑2 Mittelstraße F‑3 Möckernstraße F‑4/5 Mohrenstraße F‑3 Molkenmarkt G‑3 Mollstraße H‑2/3 Mommsenstraße B/C‑4 Monbijoustraße F‑3

Motzstraße C/D‑4/5 Mühlendamm G‑3 Mühlenstraße H/I‑4 Mulackstraße G‑2 Museumsinsel F‑3 Muskauer Straße H‑4 Niederkirchnerstraße F‑4 Niederwallstraße F‑3 Nollendorfstraße D/E‑5 Oberbaumstraße I‑4 Olivaer Platz B‑4 Oranienburger Straße F/G‑2/3 Oranienplatz F‑4 Oranienstraße F/G‑4 Otto-Braun-Straße G/H‑3 Otto-Suhr-Allee B/C‑3 Pappelallee G/H‑1 Pariser Platz F‑3 Paul-Lincke-Ufer H‑5 Perleberger Straße D/E‑2 Platz der Vereinten Nationen H‑3 Platz vor dem Neuen Tor F‑2 Potsdamer Platz E‑4 Potsdamer Straße E‑4/5 Prenzlauer Allee H‑1/2 Prinzenstraße F‑4 Pücklerstraße H‑4 Puschkinallee I‑5 Quedlinburger Straße B‑3 Rathausstraße G‑3 Reichenberger Straße G‑4/I‑5 Reichpietschufer E‑4 Reichstagufer F‑3 Reinhardtstraße F‑3 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz G‑2 Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße G‑2/3 Rosenthaler Straße G‑2/3 Rykestraße H‑2 Saarbrücker Straße G‑2 Savignyplatz C‑4 Schiffbauerdamm F‑3 Schloßplatz F‑3 Schloßstraße B‑3 Schlüterstraße C‑4 Schöneberger Straße F‑4 Schöneberger Ufer E‑4 Schönhauser Allee G‑1/2

Schönleinstraße H‑5 Schumannstraße F‑3 Seydelstraße F‑4 Simon-Dach-Straße I‑4 Skalitzer Straße G‑4/I‑4 Sophienstraße G‑2/3 Spandauer Damm A/B‑3 Spandauer Straße G‑3 Sredzkistraße H‑2 Stralauer Allee I‑4 Stralauer Platz H‑4 Stralauer Straße G‑3 Straßburger Straße G‑2 Straße der Pariser Kommune I‑3/4 Straße des-17. Juni C/E‑3 Stresemannstraße F‑4 Südstern G‑5 Tauentzienstraße D‑4 Tieckstraße F‑2 Tiergartenstraße D/E‑4 Torstraße F/G‑2 Tucholsky-Straße F‑3 Turmstraße C/D‑2 Uhlandstraße C‑4/5 Unter den Linden F‑3 Urbanstraße G/H‑5 Veteranenstraße G‑2 Voßstraße F‑4 Wadzeckstraße G/H‑3 Waldemarstraße H‑4 Wallstraße F/G‑4 Warschauer Platz I‑4 Warschauer Straße I‑3/4 Wassertorplatz F‑4 Weinbergsweg G‑2 Weinstraße H‑2/3 Werderstraße F‑3 Wiener Straße H/I‑4/5 Wilhelmstraße F‑3/4 Winterfeldtplatz D‑5 Winterfeldtstraße D/E‑5 Wörther Straße G/H‑2 Yorckstraße E/F‑5 Zimmerstraße F‑4 Zinnowitzer Straße F‑2 Zionskirchstraße G‑2 Zossener Straße F‑5

berlin.inyourpocket.com

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he rW eg t o n-S er Cho uer Str. U r r e a do Str. efk berg J. E.- haa ArkonaJ wie ow Volkspark insB.- - chön Str. Chr ablon ckistr. -S platz Vo Rhe Anton s S Lic S Sc istb er Sch R tr. hte heh Wörth Kollwitz- tr. urg kistr. Saefkow wwa .Sigrid Prenz e Str nbe rr S rzZio platz str. . tr. rgnsk Str M i S a s . r l tr. arie Bo Die Da Ank Feh tr. chKn nh tric n hw rbe aac nbu Str. o zig edt mer llin kst rge Str effe her r. er rS Ankla er H.-Ka . rstr. Zio tr. S i p r n k S t n e e h r. S B Imm ski et Pa Arnswalder tr tr. lleelf ran Str. rch ab str. ort ste Pl. . anu Vete str. er urs elk Hu U L.PappelStr irch tr. Raa fel Volkspark Feh . . an ltze str. bes Senefelder Platz platz rbe H d Bo N t r. Me llin ied He E.- tr. S erm ri tze Zeh tr. er inr erk S Sy str tr. annr St den Lott i . S S e-S c i r r t h a t . r. chn icke um Europar. -Ro arb rS eys r er öde ller rüc erP.-H Sport-Palast St s S t k . m r. r. r S t t e t r. r. s tr. S om Landsberger Allee Vir R.- dt.-S Torstr. U Rosenthaler Platz Torstr strchow M shain str. S Arn . Linienst Linienstr. . iedrich ius Fr n r. B r e m e r ue g A zla ger h Ha Pren E.-Ku Tors mb Kl Koppensber Cot t tr. LandAllee str. S urge.r platz Fri Mula tr. Volkspark ckstr U Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz ed Ste Gips Hö tr. e ts . s e in u e l str. l ch str. Friedrichshain n Aug A RosaM s s Sop te r. t er oll str. Lux.-Pl. er hie an str feld nburger Str. sSt Hir nst erg Ba ken Str. . Wa ein tr. r. r. U dsb stein str.tensnickdze strrnim W Lan Heidenst -Str . rau str. Str. cks g Weinmeisterstr. . . n i tr. str ch Oran üs gnnMol Storkower ienburger Str. Platz der Ale e chha belitrn. lstr. B e o E l Dircksen l K A r s Vereinten Landsberge Monbijoupark str. ht- xa nstr. Nationen Hackescher Markt S Ber tr. ec platz nderman Ro olin rfs kn We astr. aßRo b do tr y S n e U d tern i e fe strsen Matstr. S K meyerPu . -L Elden U Alexanderplatz arlMuseums arl Schillingstr. aer S U J K a cob tr. Fernsehturm r. - insel str. str. ystr. t Ma str. . de ss r m o a t u r s x-A B S üh Palis weg n tha M e d l r enstr. i a a Neu lee dens e R e W Strausberger Platz e tr n r. . Dom Blu st Bersarinu Rotes men azin U Rigae str. g Rathaus Mag Karl-Ma Weidenwe r enwe platz tr. Str. g rx-Allee Weid Klosterstr. estr. uss ir a n Linden a S h lt Schloßing Nikolaiviertel U Weberwiese at Vo U ebelR e r str. platz Frankfurter Tor K platz a rl -M rH.-Jadam e a Stral str. owitz-Str. rx-Allee U Wesrdtr. auer Str. U Singerst Frankfurte Str. r. Hol Walln r Rolandufer zösische e z Jannowitzbrücke r m Spree ark str. Jägerstr. S tstr Rü rmen. de Box r. rsd kt Taubenstr. llst hage Langestr. orf str. Grünbe U Hausvogteiplatz Wa ner er rg kind RungeStr. wa Nie Kurs Am U Str. er str. MohrenSt Wede d t l G l r rü e s . r n str. . tr. rW berger ma Märkisches Museum B r a Str. r kt hn ieze tr. s b o s l k t l Ostbahnhof r. a a str ho ne W Spittelmarkt U Boxhagener Platz J Am Wr . f r ue Se Köp Os iez S Kope Ne Krosse pziger Str. yde enic tba rniku r. ner An Karreener Str lstr. ker sstr. hnh bstHeinrich-Heine-Str. U ala der e o ausenstr. f S u An tr. Os er P K om t S bah ne chm latz Wüh ma hützenstr. n n ids Fo str l nda Revale tr. rm . n r Str. er mmerstr. bo An Melc ne r d nstr Sim RAW Gelände er hiors MercedesKö . chke-Str. uts . tr. pe Rev Ora Benznic Enge Sp S nien ale ker ldam Arena r S str. r e str. z-Str. U tr Warschauer Str. Beth m Str. e anie ndamm Ea Rud st S Ritt Moritzplatz Roth olfs erst ide MariannenKö Wa ertr. r. Ga U pe ldem platz ller nic arst str. y ke r. r W G OranienStr röb ran S t r r . e . l N en gel aun Mu Co platz ü n st ufe str. ynst Wa ska rin Fr.-K r Ora ldem r. uer Ritt Schlesisches Tor ths nien r. erst Ober au arst Str. tr. P r. str. b r. Neu U S enb t Lausitzer r. rala st Wa Heinrich urge s s . uer Platz Reic tr Sc erto r Str. S - platz r e rstr. tz h hle en- Tor Kottbusser kali S A l lee U sis WassertorU Str. ch Spreewaldber kalitzer Görlitzer Bahnhof e ger U Gitschiner Str. platz S Wr platz Gitschiner Str. St ang Str. Wie r o . Prinzenstr. o G l e r örli ner te lstr Böcklertze . Str. Ufer Görlitzer r St Johan park Reic r. it e r s tr. hen Park str. Blü ber ger c M.-H Fraenkelufer offm ers Str. ann Wie tr. Schlesischer Planufer ner -St Ma r. r. Busch S t y R r. bac Pau eich Urban h le u Linc nbe fer str. Dieff o k r r ger e-U da enba tr. Schönleinstr. U K rs S f n ne i e rk e chstr Bü r fho str. Str. . lzs tr. Ma Sanderstr. yba neisenaustr. c h Man . itius ufer U . str str. Pflügerstr . He üll str ide Kr Gneis rte lbe enau Kö str. Schmoller- rger U Südstern Urb Pfl St ans üg platz Bergmannstr. r. ers tr. Ha tr. rze Hasen rS W ese heide t - Str. r . Hermannrstr. W er rnau

Wittenberge RE6

Stralsund/Rostock RE5

Berlin

RB55 Kremmen

RB12 Templin Stadt

Sachsenhausen (Nordb) Vehlefanz Bärenklau Hohen Neuendorf West

Hennigsdorf bE

Heiligensee

Schulzendorf

Wittenau 8

Nauener Platz

20 6. RB RE

12 8

X9 109

Westend dF

: OlympiaStadion

Kaiserdamm Theodor-Heuss-Platz

:Heerstr.

Messe Nord/ ICC : Wilmers:dorfer Str.

Messe ZOB

Priort

:Messe Süd

Charlotten: burg Adenauer: platz

Westkreuz

:5 :Halensee

Deutsche Oper

:Tiergarten Ernst-ReuterPlatz

Hohenzollern:platz

2 S4 41

:Rüdesheimer Platz :Breitenbachplatz

:Bundesplatz

:Freie Universität Thielplatz :Oskar-Helene-Heim : Schlachtensee

Park CharSans- lottensouci hof

: GriebnitzBabelsberg see

Potsdam Hbf

:Werder (Havel)

RB23

Pirschheide

RB22

CaputhGeltow

FerchLienewitz

Dessau RE7

Möckernbrücke

Yorckstr.

Südkreuz

: :Priesterweg

Attilastr.

:Lichterfelde Ost

: Sundgauer Str. : : Osdorfer Str. :Lichterfelde Süd

Medienstadt Babelsberg Rehbrücke

Wilhelmshorst

RB23

Caputh Schwielowsee

7 RB20 RB21 RB22

Zehlendorf

dE RB10

Lankwitz

:Lichterfelde West

:Wannsee

Brandenburger Tor eE Französisch Mohrenstr.

:Stadt

: Südende

:Botanischer Garten

:Nikolassee 1 RB33

Schöneberg

:9 Rathaus Steglitz

R RB E1 . 22 RE .R 7 .R B3 B 3 21

Brandenburg RE1 Magdeburg RE1

RB20.RB21.RB22

Golm

Feuerbachstr.

Schloßstr.

Krumme Lanke 3

:Mexikoplatz

RB21 RB22

Anhalter Bahnhof

Julius- : Leber-Brücke

Friedenau

: Walther-Schreiber-Platz

: Onkel Toms Hütte

Str.

Innsbrucker : 4 Platz

:Friedrich-Wilhelm-Platz

:Podbielskiallee :Dahlem-Dorf

Platz

:Kleistpark Berliner Str. : :Blissestr. Bayerischer Platz Eisenacher

Marquardt

:Potsdamer

GleisNollen- Bülow- dreieck : Augsburger dorfplatz str. : 4 : Str. Viktoria-LuisePlatz : Yorckstr. Güntzelstr. Großgörschenstr.

Rathaus Schöneberg

:Heidelberger Platz

BartholdyZoologischer Garten : Park :Wittenberg- Kurfürstenplatz str.

Kurfürsten:damm

Hansaplatz

Friedrichstr.

Bundestag

:Mendelssohn-

Uhlandstr.

:Fehrbelliner Platz

:Hohenzollerndamm

Bellevue

Savignyplatz

B2 1. RB

1. RE

Konstanzer Str.

Spichernstr.

7 .R

RB20.RB21

: Grunewald

SophieCharlotte-Platz Bismarckstr.

: Turmstr.

Richard-Wagner-Platz

Neu-Westend

: Olympiastadion

Mierendorffplatz

RE 3. RE 4. RE 5

RB20

:Pichelsberg

X9 109

RE2.RB14

:Ruhleben

Humboldthain dorfer Str. :Schwartz: Nordbahnhof kopffstr. :OranienNaturkundeburger :museum Str. : OranieneE : Hauptbahnhof burger Tor 10

RE4.RE6.RB10.RB13

RE2.RE4.RE6.RB10.RB13.RB14

: :Stresow

RB13 RB21

RE3.RE5.RE6

:Reinicken-

Birkenstr. L

: : Staaken Spandau

RE4.RB13

Rathaus Spandau 7

RB13

RE6 RE66 RB27

: Gesundbrunnen

:Wedding

RE4.RE6.RB10

Jungfernheide

109

DallgowElstal Döberitz

> 41

Pankstr.

. RB 5 . RE 4 . RE 3 RE

: Jakob-Kaiser-Platz

Altstadt Spandau

Albrechtshof

mark

. RB 10

: Wuster-

Seegefeld

Leopoldplatz

: Westhafen

:Beusselstr.

. RB 6

. RE 2

RE Rathenow RE4

Osloer Str. 9

Am Schäfersee

:Amrumer Str.

: : SiemensZitadelle Haselhorst Paulsternstr. Rohrdamm damm Halemweg

Falkensee

Schönholz

:Rehberge

Residenzstr.

Franz-Neumann-Platz

Seestr. Brieselang

Wilhelmsruh

TXL 128

Nauen RB10 RB14

Schönfließ

Waidmannslust bF

:Paracelsus-Bad 128

: Afrikanische Str.

0A Tegel TXL

Finkenkrug

RE5.RB12

Nervenklinik Borsigwerke Eichborndamm : Alt-Reinickendorf Holzhauser Str. : :Lindauer Allee : Otisstr.

: Scharnweberstr. :Kurt-Schumacher-Platz

RE2 Wismar

Bergfelde

: Rathaus Reinickendorf :Karl-Bonhoeffer-

Tegel

:6 Alt-Tegel

RB20

:Hohen Neuendorf :Frohnau :Hermsdorf

RB55

RE3.RE4.RE5 RB10

Velten (Mark)

Oranienburg 1 RB20 : Lehnitz Borgsdorf Birkenwerder 8

Michendorf RB23

< RB22 Saarmund

: bE bF Teltow Stadt Ludwigsfelde Struveshof

Teltow Großbeeren Birkengrund

Ludwigsfelde Seddin

RE5.RB22

2 Blankenfelde

Thyrow RB33 Jüterbog

Jüterbog RE4 RE3 Lutherstadt Wittenberg/Falkenberg (Elster)

Elsterwerda RE5

Rüdnitz

Wandlitz

Bernau 2

Basdorf Schönwalde (Barnim)

Zühlsdorf

RE1 RB22

Bernau-Friedenstal Zepernick : Röntgental :

Schönerlinde

Mühlenbeck-Mönchmühle

Wandlitzsee

RB27 Wensickendorf

Legende Key to symbols

Stralsund/Schwedt (Oder) RE3 RE66 Szczecin (Stettin) RB24 Eberswalde

Groß Schönebeck (Schorfheide) RB27 RB27 Schmachtenhagen

Buch : Karow RB27

RB . RB 12 24

Werneuchen RB25

Wartenberg gE

Hohenschönhausen

Hausvog- Spittel- Heinrichteiplatz markt Heine-Str. <

Hermannplatz

Gneisenaustr. Südstern

Kaiserin-Augusta-Str.

dG 8

Köllnische Heide

Baumschulenweg

Grenzallee

Britz-Süd

: :

Rahnsdorf

Wilhelmshagen

Spindlersfeld dG

Frankfurt (Oder) RE1

Erkner 3

Eisenhüttenstadt RE1

Fangschleuse

:Adlershof Grünau hE

: Altglienicke

Rudow 7

Zeuthen 8

24 . RB 22 . RB 2

Zwickauer Damm

Grünbergallee

Eichwalde

Wildau

Frankfurt (Oder) RB36

: Niederlehme Zernsdorf Kablow RB36

Königs Wusterhausen dF

RB22 RB36

7 .R

B1 4. RB

Wutzkyallee

Friedrichshagen

: Betriebsbahnhof Schöneweide

Lipschitzallee Buckower Chaussee

Hirschgarten

Johannisthaler Chaussee :

Marienfelde

Oberspree

: Schöneweide

Parchimer Allee

Plänterwald

: Blaschkoallee

Westphalweg

: Wuhlheide

Alt-Mariendorf 6

Hermannstr.

Alt-Tempelhof

Biesdorf-Süd

:Karlshorst

B1 4

Köpenick

Sonnenallee

:Neukölln

Wuhletal Kaulsdorf Mahlsdorf Birkenstein Hoppegarten

Tempelhof

Karl-MarxStr. :

:Leinestr.

7 .R

:Fredersdorf Neuenhagen

Elsterwerdaer Platz

: 24 RB

:Treptower Park

Rathaus Neukölln

:Boddinstr.

Paradestr.

Ullsteinstr.

Betriebsbahnhof Rummelsburg

2. RE

RB24

Mehringdamm

:Tierpark

Rummelsburg 1. RE

RB26

Kostrzyn (Küstrin) RB26

Petershagen Nord

Kaulsdorf-Nord

Biesdorf

Strausberg

Cottbusser Platz Kienberg

Gärten der Welt

Lichtenberg Nöldnerplatz

Schlesisches Tor Görlitzer Bahnhof

Schönleinstr.

Friedrichsfelde

Frankfurter Allee :

:Kottbusser Tor

Springpfuhl

felde Ost

Magdalenenstr. :

41 S

Hallesches Tor :

Louis-Lewin-Str.

:Friedrichs-

Storkower Str.

Moritzplatz

Prinzenstr. :

Platz der Luftbrücke

Checkpoint Charlie

Schillingstr. : Strausberger Platz

Weberwiese : Frankfurter Tor : Samariterstr. : gE : Ostbahnhof : RB12 Warschauer RB25 RB26 Str. 13 : Ostkreuz

Museum

Landsberger Allee

Jannowitzbrücke :

Klosterstr.

Hönow :5

Hellersdorf

RE2.RE7.RB14

Hegermühle

Poelchaustr. RB12.RB24.RB25

: Märkisches

1> S4

Strausberg Stadt

Raoul-Wallenberg-Str.

Marzahn

Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz

Kochstr.

Senefelderplatz

Alexanderplatz

5 Strausberg Nord

Greifswalder Str.

RE1.RE2.RE7.RB14

he Str. . :

Mehrower Allee

Gehrenseestr.

Eberswalder Str.

: Prenzlauer Allee : RB

Rosenthaler :Platz Weinmeisterstr. Hackescher Markt

Blumberg-Rehhahn Ahrensfelde Nord Ahrensfelde Friedhof

7 Ahrensfelde

Bernauer Str. :

Schichauweg

nur zum Bahn-Regionalverkehr only to regional rail

Seefeld (Mark) Blumberg

Voltastr.

nur zur U-Bahn only to underground

Schönhauser Allee

tmitte

Rampe ramp nur zur S-Bahn only to urban rail

ZOB Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof

Bornholmer Str. :

Fernbahnhof mainline station

. RB 66

Vinetastr.

Flughafen airport

Aufzug lift

bus terminal A B C VBB-Tarifteilbereiche Berlin VBB fare zones Berlin

. RE 5 . RE E3

: hE 2 Pankow

Einige Linien halten nicht überall Some trains do not stop at all stations

: Blankenburg : Pankow-Heinersdorf

Wollankstr.

RE1 RB22

Barrierefrei durch Berlin Step-free access

S-Bahn-/U-Bahn urban rail/underground Bahn-Regionalverkehr regional rail

X7 1 17

Mahlow

Lichtenrade

Zeesen

RE7.RB22

Cottbus RE2 RB24 Senftenberg

Flughafen Berlin-Schönefeld dE 9 RB14

0A Schönefeld SXF Waßmannsdorf

Dahlewitz Rangsdorf RE7 Wünsdorf-Waldstadt

Flughafen Berlin Brandenburg Airport

Ein Verbund. Ein Tarif.

Index 893 Ryōtei Adidas Brand Center Berlin Adidas Originals Aigner Alba Berlin Alberts Alexa Centre Alpenstueck Alt Berliner Biersalon Alte Nationalgalerie Altes Museum Altes Zollhaus Amici Amici Ankerklause Anna Blume April asisi Panorama Berlin Astro-bar Aufsturz August Fengler Austria Barcomi's Deli Bauhaus Archiv beef 45 Belle Alliance Coffee Berliner Dom Berliner Fernsehturm Berliner Unterwelten Bikini Berlin Birkenstock Shop Berlin Black Box Cold War BODY WORLDS Brlo Brwhouse Bröhan Museum BR Volleys Cafe Kalwil Café-Restaurant »Wintergarten« im Literaturhaus Café Rix Café Sarotti-Höfe Caligari Chan Charlotte & Fritz Clash C/O Berlin Cocolo Coda Dessert Bar Computerspielemuseum Crack Bellmer

66 Berlin In Your Pocket

37 40 33 25 10 26 33 23 38 29 29 50 51 50 46 36 30 43 27 46 50 27 8 36 52 29 28 58 40 33 31 30 52 39 11 37

37 57 52 57 49 25 53 40 26 57 43 43

Curry 36 50 Das Gift 57 Der Mauerwinzer 27 Destille Kreuzberg 52 Deutscher Dom 29 Deutsches Historisches Museum 31 Deutsches Technikmuseum 53 Die Schule 45 Dussmann 32 East Side Gallery 8 Einhorn 37 Eisbären Berlin 11 El Dorado 37 Eschschloraque Rümschrümp 27 Facil 25 FC Union Berlin 11 Finest Whisky 40 Five Elephants 52 Französischer Dom 30 Freischwimmer 52 Füchse Berlin 10 Führerbunker 30 Gaffel Haus 23 Galander 52 Gedächtniskirche 39 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer 31 Geist Im Glas 57 Gemäldegalerie 32 Glück To Go 50 Gorgonzola Club 51 Görlitzer Park 54 Green Door 38 Grosz 36 Gugelhof 46 Hamburger Bahnhof 32 Hard Rock Cafe 35 Hefner 38 Henne 50 Hertha BSC 11 Hofbräu Wirtshaus Berlin 23 Hoppetosse 51 House of Weekend 28 Illuseum Berlin 32 Jolly 24 Jüdisches Museum Berlin 53 Junction Bar 53 Kaffee Burger 28

Kamala 24 Keyser Soze 23 Kinnaree Thai 49 Konnopke's Imbiß 45 Kulturbrauerei 47 Le Petit Royal 36 Lindenwirtin 36 Liquidrom 55 Locanda 37 Märkisches Museum 32 Martin-Gropius-Bau 53 Mauerpark 47 Maxim Gorki Theatre 17 Maximilians 23 Mein Haus am See 27 Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe 30 Metzer Eck 45 Mommsen-Eck 38 Mrs Robinson's 45 Museum für Asiatische Kunst 40 Museum für Film und Fernsehen 32 Museum für Naturkunde 32 Mutter Hoppe 23 NaNum 50 Neues Museum 29 Neue Synagoge 28 Nikolaiviertel 28 Nola's am Weinberg 26 Oderberger Stadtbad 55 Olympic Stadium 39 Osteria N°1 51 Otito 24 Ottenthal 35 Pagode 49 Palsta 57 Panorama Café 26 Panoramapunkt 24 Paris-Moskau 25 Patio 26 Paulinski Palme 57 Pergamon Museum 29 Pizzeria i Due Forni 46 Potsdamer Platz 28 Reichstag 29 Renger-Patzsch 36 Sachiko Sushi 37 Sammlung Boros 32

San Diego Steakhouse Sarod's Schall und Rauch Schloss Charlottenburg Schneeweiß Schnitzelei Schöneberger Weltlaterne Soda Club Spectrum Science Centre Ständige Vertretung Stasi Museum Suksan Sultan Hamam tausche Taschen Tempelhof Airport- Guided Tours Tempelhofer Freiheit The Berlin Story The Digital Eatery The Harp Tiergarten Topographie des Terrors To The Bone Tres Tapas Tupac Berlin Union Jack unsicht-Bar Berlin Vabali Van Long Van Loon Viktoriapark VOX Watergate Weihenstephaner Weinstein Wellenwerk Berlin What do you fancy love? Wild at Heart Wohnzimmer Würgeengel Yorckschlösschen Yosoy Tapas-Bar Zeiss Planetarium Zillemarkt Zollpackhof Zur Letzten Instanz Zwiebelfisch

43 50 46 39 42 36 36 47 54 23 43 35 55 47 58 57 54 27 38 40 54 26 46 51 39 45 55 24 51 54 26 53 24 46 16 38 53 46 52 53 27 47 36 26 24 38

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