Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

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Slovenian Istria 2014/2015

Including Koper, Izola, Piran, Portorož, Postojna and the Karst

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.”

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Explore the Countryside Picturesque villages, terraced vineyards and countless hiking and cycling opportunities

Istrian Cuisine inyourpocket.com Issue N°6 - FREE COPY

You’re guaranteed to eat well at the coast, especially if you like seafood

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

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In recent years, the Port of Koper has seen increasing arrivals from cruise ships, photo by Ubald Trnkoczy

Arrival & Transport

5

Planes, trains, buses and cars

Koper

6

The capital of the coast

Izola

12

A fishing village with soul

Piran 18 Slovenia’s prettiest town

Portorož

24

A top resort destination

The Karst

28

Explore this amazing inland region

Postojna

32

More than just a cave Socerb Castle offers breathtaking views as far as the eye can see, photo by Ubald Trnkoczy

Maps

36

2014

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2014/2015

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Foreword

Arriving & Getting Around

Even amongst Slovenes the phrase ‘I’m going to the coast’ more often than not refers to a trip south to Croatia, which is understandable, as not only were they part of the same country just over two decades ago, but the Croatian mainland and its numerous islands cover some 5,835km of Mediterranean coast, which makes Slovenia’s 47km (or 46.6km to be exact) somewhat comical in comparison. However, to quote the philosopher Plato: ‘Necessity is the mother of invention’, and since the current national borders were established following the Second World War, Slovenia has made the most of what it was left with, giving it what is in our not so humble opinion centimetre for centimetre the finest coastline in the world!

Lest you think we’re just wantonly throwing around hyperbole (which admittedly wouldn’t be the first time, as we are a tourist guide after all), take a minute and tell us where else along a less than 50km stretch of the Mediterranean one can find two still-functioning ancient salt pans, a protected nature reserve, a major shipping port and cruise liner terminal, several well-preserved Venetian old towns, kilometres of waterfront cycling and walking paths, an international airport, one of Europe’s top nightclubs, both large public beaches and small secluded swimming spots, a breakaway municipality that was the subject of a recent constitutional court ruling, the highest cliff on the entire Adriatic, a modern seaside resort town, countless major events held throughout the year and lots of other things we’re likely forgetting at the moment. Go ahead, we’ll wait!

In all serious though, the Slovene coast, like the country itself, offers visitors an incredibly diverse selection of things to see, do and experience, and we’ve tried our best to include many of them in the following pages, while much more info can be found on our website. As always we welcome any and all feedback, be it on Facebook, Foursquare, Twitter or even old-fashioned email.

Publisher IQBATOR E Ltd. S S E N TI A L Slovenian In Your Pocket C I TY G U I D E S Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia, Tel. +386 30 316 602 slovenia@inyourpocket.com Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com Printed Eurograf Published Once per year Maps Monolit Editorial Managing Editor Yuri Barron Writers Will Dunn, James Cosier, John Bills Layout & Design Radomir Lazović Consulting Craig Turp Photos Local tourist associations, Shutterstock, Slovenia In Your Pocket Cover photo www.kpss.si / Creative Commons license Sales & Operations Management Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina, Leon Šlajpah Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

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Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

GEORGIA

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Getting to Istria

By Car

The Slovene coast is well-connected to the rest of the country by trains and buses (usually requiring a transfer in the capital Ljubljana if you’re planning to go further), but getting to or from neighbouring Italy or Croatia on public transport is surprisingly difficult, in spite of the fact that you can literally see one or both of them at nearly all times.

Coming by car is usually the best option, as it’s not only much faster, but also allows easily exploration of the beautiful countryside, although parking in or near the old town centres can be a complicated and/or expensive proposition, especially in Piran.

Coming to the Slovene coast by car not only allows you more freedom during your stay, but is also considerably faster than public transport. The drive from Ljubljana to Koper should take just about an hour, while Bled is only 1.5 hours away and Maribor on the other side of the country is just over two hours. Unless you get lost or stuck in traffic (the latter being more common), it shouldn’t take much more than 30 minutes to get between any two points in the region, as this is the average time from Koper to Piran at the far end of Slovene territory. Some the country’s most popular tourist sites are also very close, including the white horses of Lipica (30km), Škocjan Caves (35km) and Postojna Cave (58km), while Trieste in Italy is only 22km. If you’re coming with your own car, don’t forget to purchase a vinjeta sticker for your windscreen at the border if you plan on using the motorways - this is the system that replaced tolls some years ago.

By Plane While Portorož technically has it’s own international airport, there are currently not any regularly scheduled flight operating, although if you have your private jet or are arriving on a chartered flight it is obviously the most convenient option.

However, for the non-Jet Set, the nearest airports are Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport (LJU) situated near the city of Kranj some 125km from Koper, Ronchi dei Legionari Airport (TRS) north of Monfalcone a bit over 60km away, and Venice Marco Polo Airport (VCE), the latter offering by far the most direct international connections. During the summer season, there are also cheap budget flights and many charters to Pula, Rijeka and other towns along the norther Croatian coast.

By Train If you’re coming to coast by train, the station in Koper is the end of the line, so if that’s not your final destination you’ll have to take a local bus, taxi, bike or a long walk from there.

From Ljubljana there are five trains per day (six at weekends), which take two to three hours and cost €9-11 for 2nd class. If you’re planning a weekend you can take advantage of special return fares. More info can be found on the site of Slovenian Railways at www.slo-zeleznice.si. Koper’s railway station is situated about 1km due south of the old town gates, and offers an ATM and luggage storage but not much else. However, it’s conveniently located right next to the bus station, which makes onward travel a breeze.

By Bus There are a dozen or more buses between Ljubljana and Koper on weekdays and few less at the weekends, which can take anywhere between 1.5 and 2.5 hours. Be aware that the vast majority of these go to Koper in the morning hours, and return to the capital in the evening. The fares are similar to those for trains, but most of the buses also travel onwards to Izola and Portorož. In all towns at the coast the main bus stations (or sometimes just a stop) are located in or very near the centre, and local buses will make lots of stops so make sure to check which will get you nearest where you ultimately want to go. Tickets can be purchased from the driver, or in advance at bus stations in larger towns. facebook/slovenia.inyourpocket

Boat Charters Adria Service Yachting There’s no better way to experience the Adriatic sea than on a private boat. However, if like us you’re not fortunate enough to have your own vessel, don’t worry, Adria Service Yachting have a fleet of nearly two dozen sail boats, power boats, luxury yachts and catamarans on which you can experience your dream holiday. Standard charters are by the week, especially during the peak summer season, but day and weekend charters are also possible, as are excursion, business trips and team-building activities. Adria Service Yachting is also a fully licensed travel agency, which means they can arrange accommodation and airport transfers, as well as organise your participation in one of the many regattas that take place int eh Adriatic each year, including the most famous of them all, Trieste’s Barcolana.Q6310, Tomažičeva 2, tel. +386 (0)5 640 1102/+386 (0)5 640 1103, info@adriaservice-yachting. com, adriaservice-yachting.com.

Taxis Taxi Štefan Štefan is the man to call for all your transport needs, including day tours and longer transfers to and from the rest of Slovenia, as well as Croatia and Italy. Fixed prices can be found on the website.QObala 122, tel. +386 (0)51 303 100, prevozi-portoroz.com.

ALEJA - PERSONAL TRANSPORT - NON STOP 24 /7

TAXI ŠTEFAN

051 303 100 +386 51 303 100

e-mail: info@prevozi-portoroz-com

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Koper

Koper Pizzeria 33 We’re not sure if there are 33 pizzas on offer, however there are enough to cause headaches when choosing. Pizza 33 also offers a range of dishes from grilled meats and local seafood to pastas and salads. Whilst the drinks list isn’t quite as expansive as the food menu it is nice to have options other than Laško and Union. The pizzeria is located on the coast road between Koper and Izola with views of the sea. It’s a bit hard to reach without a car though they do deliver.QIstrska 67, tel. +386 (0)5 90 12 580/+386 (0)31 33 33 96, www.pizza33.si. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

Sarajevo ‘84 Voted by In Your Pocket readers as the best Balkan restaurant in Ljubljana for 2013, Koper is now the third city in the country (with nearby Piran being the other) to have this unofficial representative of the Bosnian capital turning out delicious grilled meat dishes, which are inevitably washed down with bottles of famous Sarajevsko beer and followed by authentic Turkish coffee. Located at the eastern edge of Koper’s old town, this restaurant themed on Sarajevo’s shining moment in the international spotlight back when it hosted the Winter Olympics in 1984 is a fine place to fill up before or after exploring the city’s sights.QF-1, Gramšijev Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)8 383 59 44, www. sarajevo84.si.

Skipper The seamen’s and sailor’s choice, the highlight of this place in the heart of the harbour is the raised terrace overlooking the marina and shipyards. Expect to dine very well

Koper’s fine Venetian old town is not to be missed, photo by Jaka Jeraša

The somewhat kitsch slogan used by Slovenia’s neighbours to describe their coastline is “the Mediterranean as it used to be.”

Slovenians are more clever than that. That’s why one local of the gorgeous seaside town of Koper told Koper In Your Pocket that the Slovenian coast is in fact, simply, “the Mediterranean as it is.” Brilliant, as is Koper, a town of not all that many people just an hour from Ljubljana, yet in attitude and outlook it might just as well be one million miles away. If Ljubljana reeks of Austrian influence, Koper is Slovenia’s Italian connection. “It’s Slovenia, Jim, but not as we know it.”

Wandering around Koper’s Old Town, all narrow streets and Venetian-style houses, you could be forgiven that you had indeed crossed the border into Italy. You are as liable to hear Italian spoken as Slovenian, there are Italian signs everywhere, and it’s all a reminder that the border between one country and another has never really mattered all that much in these parts.

Always something of a blur, it disappeared forever three years ago when Slovenia joined the Schengen block.

Restaurants Cityburger Don’t be fooled by the name, Cityburger is decidedly not a simple fast food joint. Not only does the interior have the appearance of an country bistro, but the menu also offers an enormous selection - with dozens of pizzas, steak, seafood, pasta and salads all vying for your attention. Of course they also prepare some tasty burgers, including the namesake Cityburger, which boasts a jaw-breaking two beef patties 6

Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

Tourist Information Koper’s well-stocked tourist information centre is located in the centre of town on Tito Square. The friendly multi-lingual staff will gladly make recommendations for what to see and do both in Koper and the surrounding countryside, and free brochures and maps can be found for pretty much everything there is to see and do in the region.QB-4, Titov Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)5 664 64 03, tic@koper.si, www.koper.si. Open daily 09:0020:00 (June-Sept), and 09:00-17:00 (Oct-May). on huge pieces of fresh fish caught that day. Wash it down with a couple of the great local wines on the menu.QE1, Kopališko nabrežje 3, tel. +386 (0)5 626 18 10, emil. horvat@siol.net, www.skipper-koper.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00 Holidays 11:00-22:00. JAGBK Vodišek This restaurant at the family-run BIO hotel has a long tradition of preparing large portions of local cuisine for both guests and non-guests alike. House specialities include fresh fish prepared on a wood-fired grill and succulent slow roasted meat dishes, as well as various pasta and vegetarian options. Three separate dining areas can fit between 12 and 150 people, while there’s also a shady outdoor terrace open during the warmer months.QVanganelska 2, tel. +386 (0)5 625 88 84, info@hotel-bio.si, www.hotel-bio.si.

and three pieces of bread (although for the record we usually opt for either the bacon or chicken burger). Located in Koper’s main commercial district just east of the old town centre, there is plenty of free parking available.QG-2, Ankaranska 7, tel. +386 (0)5 630 9920/+386 (0)41 93 49 32, info@cityburger.si, www.cityburger.si. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

PTALVBS Istrska Klet Slavček Fantastic! Plates of sea food nibbles such as deep fried squid in batter served as appetisers or simple snacks for the many locals who come here for lunch or an early dinner. There is also for once a good non-fish menu: check the daily specials on the blackboard, like the brilliant minestrone soup. Super location too, and plenty of outside seating.QB-5, Župančičeva 39, tel. +386 (0)5 627 67 29. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat. (€39.5). JULGBK Peking One of four popular Chinese restaurants run by the Ji family from Shanghai, Koper’s Peking is located just south of the H5 motorway near the Mercator Centre. Known for its extensive menu, huge portions and friendly service, this is our favourite place for authentic Chinese food on the coast. Try to grab a table in the garden, where you can dine amongst bamboo trees and intimate lighting under the smiling gaze of a large Buddha statue.QF/G-5, Cesta Marežganskega Upora 13, tel. +386 (0)5 625 08 08, www.kitajska-restavracija.si. Open 12:00 - 23:00. PTAL slovenian-istria.inyourpocket.com

www.koper-card.si TIC KOPER, Titov trg 3, Koper T: +386 5 6646 403 E: tic@koper.si

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Koper

Koper Around Koper

Ankaranska 7, Koper Every day from 8 to 24 h

Sightseeing Koper, the Old Town at least, is one big sight. The joy of coming here is to wander its streets, often getting lost, mixing with locals, visitors and hoardes of day trippers. Old Town’s main street -if you can call it that - is Cevljarska, which is no more than two or three metres wide in places, and is packed from dawn to dusk when it, like most of Old Koper, disappears inside. Cevljarska leads up from Muda Gate to the town’s main square, Titov Trg, which is dominated by the bell tower of the St Mary’s of the Assumption Cathedral, visible from all over Koper.

Bell Tower Rising up 54m from the centre of the old town, the city’s famed Bell Tower, will likely be the first sight visitors see no matter if they’re arriving by road, rail or sea. Originally part of a Roman fortification, the tower was transformed into its present appearance between the 15th and 17th centuries, and has been used for liturgical purposes ever since. Panoramic views of the entire region (weather permitting of course) can be had by ascending 204 steps to reach the viewing platform at 43m.

QB-4, Titov Trg. Summer hours 09:00-14:00, 16:00-21:00. €2 per person.

the outer staircase and balustrade added fifty years later, and the overall appearance of the façade taking shape in 1664 after significant renovations. After serving various purposes following the downfall of the Venetian Republic at the hands of Napoleon in 1797, the building underwent a decade long restoration in the 1990s and now once again serves as the municipal seat and mayor’s office, as well as the Tourist Information Centre.QB-4, Titov Trg 3. Free guided tours can be arranged in advance through TIC. Taverna (St Mark’s Salt Warehouse) For much of the past millennium salt production served an important role along Slovenia’s coastal region, with documented exploitation of the salt pans dating from

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Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

Stretching to the south and east of Koper, the rolling hills and valleys of the Istrian countryside are dotted with ancient villages, Roman ruins, cliff-top churches and countless hiking and cycling trails just waiting to be explored. You’ll likely need your own car, or at least a driver, to reach most of what the region has to offer in a timely fashion, but the wealth and proximity of sights makes renting an easily justifiable expense.

We’ve listed a few of our favourites below, but for a complete run down of all there is to see or do - as well as maps and other info - visit either the Koper or Ankaran tourist offices.

Bertoki Located just off the Koper-Trieste road near the Rižana River, Bertoki is a small settlement formerly known as RižanLazaret or simply Lazaret. The village boasts a gorgeous little parish church dedicated to Mary’s Assumption, which displays the 400 year-old ‘Crucified Christ’ painted by an unknown local artist. Next to the church is a Venetian-style bell tower added in the 18th century. The area was once famous as for the sprawling summer manors that belonged to the noble families of Koper, and a tree-lined promenade leading to the church still remains from this time.Today Bertoki is home to the only surviving colonial estate in the Primorska region, which is a protected cultural heritage site.

The nearby Škocjanski Zatok nature reserve (established in 1998) is easily combined with a visit to the village.

Cathedral of Mary’s Assumption Koper’s cathedral originally dates back to the 12th century when the city acquired its own diocese, and a Roman basilica actually stood on the same location as far back as ancient times. The current façade combines architectural styles, with a Gothic lower half and a noticeably Renaissance upper half.

Inside the Cathedral there are numerous sights of note including the large altarpiece ‘Madonna with Child on the Throne of Saints’ by Vittore Carpaccio from 1516, the 15th century stone sarcophagus of St Nazarius (Koper’s patron saint), and an organ decorated with two additional painting by Carpaccio, ‘The Presentation in the Temple’ and ‘The Slaughter of the Innocents’. The entire interior was redecorated by the famous Italian architect Giorgio Massari in the 18th century.QB-4, Titov Trg. No admission fee.

Praetorian Palace Dominating the southern side of Tito Square is the imposing yet beautifully ornate Praetorian Palace, which has served as the municipal seat for some eight centuries. It’s Venetian Gothic design dates from the middle of the 15th century, with

Discover the Church of the Holy Trinity and its famous frescoes in Hrastovlje, photo by Ubald Trnkoczy

Črni Kal The village of Črni Kal lies just off the main motorway a dozen or so kilometres east of Koper, at the natural border of the Karst region. For most visitors, the most immediately noticeable feature of the area, is the enormous Črni Kal Viaduct. Completed in 2004, at 1065m long and 95m high, it’s currently the longest bridging structure in the country.

Conspicuously perched on the rocky cliffs above the village are the remnants of an 11th century fortress, which was part of the defence system of the Venetian Republic,

while on another nearby hill there’s the odd-looking bell tower of the Baroque Church of St Valentine. Dating from 1680, the tower now has a noticeable lean to it, and is secured in place by steel wires.

The village itself, has typical Istrian-Karst architecture with numerous decorative stone details. One house in particular, the so-called Benkova Hiša, is officially considered to be the oldest farmhouse in Slovene and the earliest example of Slovene folk architecture, dating from 1489. The rocky slopes above the village offer over 100 climbing routes of various levels of difficulty, and provide spectacular views of the valleys and hills below leading towards Koper and the sea, and there are even more hiking and cycling opportunities in the surrounding countryside.

Hrastovlje The Istrian village of Hrastovlje is most famous for its Church of the Holy Trinity, which dates back to the 13th century. The entire interior of the the church is covered in frescoes by the 15th century Slovene artist Janez of Castua, including the eerily enchanting Dance of Death or Danse Macabre [editor’s note: this is also the title of a great album by an indie dance punk band from Omaha called The Faint].

Most of the equally impressive other works take their themes from the various parts of the Old Testament, and some include inscriptions in Glagolitic - the oldest known Slavic alphabet, developed by Saints Cyril and Methodius in the 9th century. The church is surrounded by 16th century walls with two defence towers, originally built to fend off the Ottomans.

The quaintly picturesque Hrastovlje village, with its traditional Istrian architecture, is also worth a stroll, and as with many of the village in the area it’s a popular starting point for hiking, cycling and motorcycle trips into the surrounding countryside. For art lovers two galleries in the centre of the village are also worth perusing, the Jože Pohlen Gallery and the Victor Snoj Gallery.

Koper’s bell tower is the city’s trademark sight, photo by YMB

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Koper as early as 1182. Taking up the lion’s share of Carpaccio Square on the western edge of the old town is the Taverna building, which formerly served as a salt warehouse before becoming at various times an inn, a fish market and of course a tavern. Today the structure is used as a multipurpose space for various events, including many live concerts and other performances.QA-4, Carpacciov Trg. Galerija Meduza An excellent collection of contemporary art by various local artists, all of which is for sale. Friendly staff will help with onward shipping should you require.QB-5, Čevljarska 34, tel. +386 (0)5 627 48 37. Open 09:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Koper Regional Museum Housed inside a wonderful Venetian Palace, the Koper Regional Museum presents a rather condensed history of Koper, Izola and Piran. While there’s precious little to actually see, there are some rather nice paintings to admire, and the building is wonderful. Walking around is not the worst way in the world to kill half an hour.QA-4, Kidričeva 19, tel. +386 (0)5 663 35 70, pmk-kp@guest. arnes.si. Sep-Jun Mon-Fri10:00-18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00-13:00; Jul-Aug: 09:00-13:00, Tue-Sun 18:0021:00, Mon closed.

Muzejska Galerija Part of the Koper Regional Museum (which is next door), the gallery museum presents changing exhibitions of vari-

Koper ous interest throughout the year. When we last visited the current exhibition was a superb presentation of the role of profane art and music in Venetian society. Check the gallery’s website for details of current exhibitions.QA-4, Kidričeva 21, tel. +386 (0)5 663 35 70. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Koper City Beach (Mestno Kopališče Koper) Koper’s small pebble beach lacks sand, but is a lovely place to soak up the sun or to swim in the warm (depending on the time of year of course) water. You will find it on Kopalisko Nabrežje, next to the marina. There are large areas of lawns for sunbathing, and an enclosed swimming area.

Lifeguards are on hand to make sure you do not swim off out into the boating lanes. There are changing rooms, showers, children’s playgrounds, a restaurant and a café.

QE-1, Kopališko Nabrežje 1, tel. +386 (0)5 627 81 78.

Accommodation BIO In the newer part of town, some way from the Old Town (but accessible by bus) the Bio is a good choice for those on a budget. Rooms are simple but rather nice, and considering the almost negative cost you get plenty of value for your money.

There’s an onsite restaurant complete with a terrace serving local specialities.QVanganelska 2, tel. +386 (0)5 625 88 84, fax +386 (0)5625 88 85, info@hotel-bio.si, www.hotel-bio. si. 29 rooms (singles €38-53, doubles €57-79, triples €76).

PTHAR6LGBKW hhh

Hostel Histria A much welcomed (and much needed) addition to the budget accommodation at the Slovene coast, the renovated historical building has had some of its centuriesold charm preserved in the form of stone walls, wooden shutters and heavy iron fixtures, and is conveniently located just around the corner from Prešeren Square and the main southern entrance to the old town, within easy walking distance from the train and bus stations and just steps away from several popular pubs, cafés and restaurants.QB-5, Pri Velikih Vratih 17, tel. +386 (0)8 38 240 38, info@hostel-histria.si, www.hostel-histria.si. Two 8-bed and three 6-bed dorms, (€13-15/person OctApril, €15-17 May-Sept). JW Garni Hotel Pristan Though it looks less than promising from the outside, this is just about the best hotel in town, and as such is the default choice of the business classes. It’s spick, span, and the well sized rooms are faultlessly attired. Bathrooms are great, there are plenty of freebie toiletries and the staff are both friendly and helpful in a wide variety of languages.

Note that not all rooms have balconies, and as there is no extra cost for such luxuries ask for one when reserving or checking in.QG-1, Ferrarska 30, tel. +386 (0)5 614 40 00, hotel@luka-kp.si, pristan-koper.si. 10 rooms and 6 suites (singles €77, doubles €60, triples €50).

PJHAULGBKDCW hhhh Koper The only full-sized hotel located within Koper’s old town, what its name lacks in originality it makes up for in location - with its façade dominating the waterfront promenade opposite the small harbour and the statue-packed Hlavatyev Park. Part of Terme Čatež chain of hotels, resorts and spas, it comes with the standard 3-star amenities and great views from most of the rooms. There are also two onsite conference halls for business or other events.QA4/5, Pristaniška 3, tel. +386 (0)5 610 05 00, fax +386 (0)5 610 05 94, koper@terme-catez.si, www.terme-catez.si.

55 rooms, 10 suites (singles €74-92, doubles €114-150).

PTHRULGBK hhh Padna Apartments Set at the edge of the idyllic village of Padna in the heart of Slovenia’s Istrian region, these two large, wellfurnished apartments are a perfect combination of traditional style and modern amenities. Both apartments have multiple bedrooms, bathrooms, a living room and kitchen on two floors, as well as access to a balcony and terrace with sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. Padna is easily accessible from anywhere on the coast, with the most direct route being directly south of Koper on the road to Pula. Booking in advance is highly recommended during peak seasons.QPadna 65b, tel. +386 (0)40 432 077, info@apartmajipadna. si, www.apartmajipadna.si. Apartment A4 €60-90, Apartment A5 €90-120. Bikes can be rented for only €3/day. PTAL

10 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

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FROM 12.99 € Ulica pri velikih vratih 17 6000 KOPER tel.: +386 838 24 38 info@hostel-histria.si www.hostel-histria.si

Villa Andor Housed in a beautifully preserved centuries-old Venetian-style villa, Andor enjoys protected historic status as it had previously served as both a private and official state residence before being opened as a hotel in the mid-90s. Its 14 double rooms all come with antique furnishings as well as modern amenities, and most have at least partial sea views. Try to request room four (the Honeymoon suite), which has French doors opening onto a large private balcony.QVinogradniška Pot 9, tel. +386 (0)56 15 50 00/+386 (0)41 65 51 00, fax +386 (0)56 15 50 17, villa@andor.si, www.andor. si. 14 rooms (singles €50-55, doubles €80-90).

POA6ILBKX Vodišek About half-way between the Old Town and the bus and train stations, the Vodisek is a good budget choice.

Expect distinctly average rooms but at a more than reasonable price, and friendly staff eager to help you find your way around their town. The terrace café gets busy with locals and appears to be a centre of gossip.

All adds to the fun of staying here. Note the reception is around the back, through the shopping mall.

QF-2, Kolodvorska 2, tel. +386 (0)5 639 24 68/+386 (0)41 634 877, fax +386 (0)5 639 36 68, info@hotelvodisek.com, www.hotel-vodisek.com. 33 rooms (singles €59, doubles 88, triples €107)44,2544,35.

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Izola

Izola Tourist Information A bit more difficult to find after moving from the waterfront promenade to a parallel pedestrian street just around the corner, the newly renovated premises now stock a large selection of gifts and souvenirs (including a whole wall full of local wines) in addition to the usual brochures and guides. To get there take the small alleyway next to the municipal building at Sončno Nabrežje 8, and turn left when you reach the end.QA-2, Ljubljanska 17, tel. +386 (0)5 640 10 50, fax +386 (0)5 640 10 52, tic.izola@izola. si, www.izola.eu. Open 09:00-16:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, and closed Sun (Sep-May); 09:00-19:00, Sun 09:0017:00 (June); everyday 09:00-20:00 (July-Aug). the main dining room, there is a large terrace that can be transformed into an enclosed winter garden during colder months, and a small private salon with a fireplace that can be reserved for special occasions. After dinner you can head to the equally grand wine cellar downstairs.QKorte 44b, tel. +386 (0)5 620 96 57, info@hisa-torkla.si, www. hisa-torkla.si. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.

The town of Izola was formerly an island, hence the name (isola is is Italian for island), photo courtesy of Tourism Izola

Still an easygoing fishing village at heart, Izola doesn’t get nearly as much love as some of Slovenia’s other coastal towns and is often overlooked by tourists racing by on their way to Piran for a day trip. However, as far as we’re concerned it’s a beautiful little Venetian port town with enough amenities to keep you comfortable, windy old streets to wander and sights to see to make it a worthwhile destination in its own right.

Restaurants Gušt One of several places within a block of each other on Drevored 1. Maja (or The 1st of May Avenue), Gušt always seems to have the fewest empty seats on its long terrace, and for good reason. Its thick menu has a bit of everything, but for our money the brick oven pizzas are probably the best in town. For those staying farther afield they also deliver to most nearby areas.QE-2, Drevored 1 Maja 5, tel. +386 (0)41 67 59 53/+386 (0)41 65 03 33, gustizola@volja.net.

Open 08:00 - 24:00. (€4.5-19). JAVBS Gostišče Obala Located in the Jadranka Avtokamp along the waterfront just east of town, this no frills restaurant offers a relaxed and authentic dining experience without the crowds of the city centre, with free parking and panoramic views of the old town offering further enticement. Grilled meat and vegetable dishes are well-represented on the menu, as of course 12 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

are fish and other seafood specialities, while the awardwinning pizza is what draws many a local family here. Fresh locals ingredients from surrounding countryside are used, and prices are incredibly reasonable. It’s open year-round for lunch, and dinner as well during the high season.QPolje 8 (Avtokamp Jadranka), tel. +386 (0)41 528 787, camp. jadranka@gmail.com, avtokamp-jadranka.si.

Gostilna Korte Locals and tourists alike make regular pilgrimages up into the hills between Izola and Portorož to dine at this traditional inn. The menu has a mix of Slovene, Mediterranean and regional Istrian dishes, and a great selection of local wines - a bottle of which should be mandatory with any meal. It’s also not a bad place to come for a drink if you need an excuse to get out and enjoy the fresh air, but are not in the mood to eat.QKorte 44, tel. +386 (0)5 642 02 00/+386 (0)41 60 78 63, gostilnakorte@siol.net, www. gostilnakorte.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. Hiša Torkla Situated in a beautifully restored traditional 19th-century Istrian house in the charming hilltop town of Korte, the cuisine at Hiša Torkla is just as exceptional as the setting.

Prepared using fresh seasonal ingredients from local farmers, hunters and fishermen, many of the dishes are based on age-old Slovene recipes with a little bit of modern innovation from head chef Sebastijan Kovačič. In addition to slovenian-istria.inyourpocket.com

Marina In spite of the stereotypes often associated with hotel restaurants, Marina is widely regarded as one of the best in town, and considering the top quality it’s a surprisingly good-value option for those looking for a bit more upscale dining whilst in Izola. Under the watchful eye of master chef Ivica Evačić-Ivek, the kitchen strictly adheres to the motto of ‘From the sea to the plate’, which to be fair is only a journey of a few metres given that the hotel is set right on the harbour.QA-1, Veliki Trg 11, tel. +386 (0)5 660 41 00, ivek@hotelmarina.si, www.hotelmarina.si. Open 12:00-23:00 in spring/summer, 12:00-22:00 in autumn/ winter. PJALBW Manjada Set high above the road overlooking the San Simon Resort and Adriatic sea in the distance, Manjada is an excellent choice for lunch or dinner, combining the modern dining experience with a homey traditional-style. House specialties included meat and seafood dishes from a charcoal grill,

Gostilna in Pizzeria Manjada Morova 25d, 6310 Izola Tel: 05/64 16 321 www.gostilna-manjada.si

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fresh fish from the Adriatic, and every kind of pizza imaginable, with the daily lunch specials always a good choice.

For a real treat, come for dinner and try one of the excellent (and very reasonably priced) five-course tastings menus, with each course accompanied by a perfectly matched Slovene wine.QMorova 25d, tel. +386 (0)5 64 16 321, www. gostilna-manjada.si. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 23:00. Closed Mon. Pergola Open only during the peak tourist season, you can be assured of fresh ingredients and a crowded house at this seafood restaurant found at Hotel Delfin near the entrance to the marina. Free parking for guests in another added benefit, and another likely reason why the place is popular amongst locals and others who aren’t staying at the hotel or even visiting its pools.QTomažičeva 10, +386 (0)5 6607 421, www.hotel-delfin.si. Open 10:0021:00 from April till October. PTAL Ribič Located beside Izola’s picturesque fishing port in the centre of town, Gostilna Ribič has been pleasing customers for more than 140 years. After enjoying a relaxed weekend lunch we can see why its still around, the atmosphere is authentically rustic, the service friendly, and they even serve a complimentary appetiser. Ribič (‘fisherman’ in Slovene) are specialists at preparing (surprise surprise) the freshest seafood and their classic Adriatic and Mediterranean dishes are delicious as are the local wines on offer.

The non-seafood items on the menu look good as well, though we turn into pescatarians whenever we’re at the coast.QA-1, Veliki Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)5 641 83 13, www. ribic.biz. Open 10:00 - 23:00.

Kilometre Zero In order to promote the rich culinary heritage of the Istria region, the Tourist Association of Izola in cooperation with the town’s Chamber of Craft and Small Business has developed the Kilometre Zero initiative, which both encourages and ensures the use of local products, and also organises various ongoing events under one unique brand. Currently, 18 restaurants within the municipality of Izola have joined the project, meaning that at least 80% of their ingredients are purchased from local suppliers. This no only guarantees guests the chance to try authentic recipes and local specialities, but also means that seasonal dishes, both from the sea and the land, are in constant supply. Events connected with the projects include a special culinary evening known as Forgotten Flavours of Istria, which takes places at a different restaurant on the first Tuesday of each month (except January), a Saturday farmers’ market from May to September, and The Sea on the Table, where participating restaurants serve up the freshest lunches possible from the morning catch of local fishermen. See the Tourist Association’s official website for more info.

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Izola Kino Otok

04.06 Wednesday - 08.06 Sunday Kino Otok is not only the second largest film festival in Slovenia and one of the most high-profile cultural events on the Slovenian coast, but it’s also one of our personal favourites, with screenings taking place outdoors under the stars on Mazioli Trg in the old town of Izola. In addition to its unique venue, the festival also prides itself on promoting genuine interaction between filmmakers and audiences, making the event an unforgettable experience for everyone involved. The festival’s programme, which is due to be announced on 22 May, is sure to be as international as in previous years, with the selection of films accompanied by a full schedule of Q&A sessions, industry meetings, film education panels, workshops for youth and children, art exhibitions and much more. This summer Kino Otok will also be celebrating its 10th anniversary, guaranteeing the event an even more festive atmosphere than ever before.QManziolijev Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 43 18 008, info@isolacinema.org, www.isolacinema.org.

Izola Vila Raineri Located next to the Hotel Delfin complex just outside the town’s modern marina, Vila Raineri makes for a good familyfriendly destination after a day spent cruising out on the Adriatic, or just splashing around at the hotel’s pools or private beach. Some two dozen pizzas come in four different sizes, so everyone should be able to find the perfect size and variety.QTomažičeva 10, tel. +386 (0)5 6607 426, www.hotel-delfin.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. TAL

Manzioli Palace Originally built in 1470 under the direction of one of Izola’s first mayors, Tomasso Manzioli, the recently renovated palace is one of the oldest buildings in the city and home to both the offices of the local Italian self-government and an incredibly charming wine bar. Frequently held art exhibitions are a good excuse to see the beautifully restored interior.QA-1, Manzioli Square 5, tel. +386 (0)5 616 21 31, agnese.babic@siol.net.

Sightseeing

Parenzana Museum In 1902 the Parenzana railway line was built connecting Trieste with Poreč (or Parenzo in Italian, hence the name) 123 kilometres to the south in present-day Croatia. Although it was only in operation until 1935 it garnered quite a reputation for the beautiful scenery along the route, much of which serves as a footpath and cycling road today. Dedicated to preserving the history of the short-lived line, this tiny museum opened its doors in 2000. It also houses an impressive model train collection that is probably a must see attraction for anyone interested in such things. It’s a good idea to ask for directions and confirm its working hours at the tourist office.QI-7, Alme Vivoda 3, tic.izola@ izola.si. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission: €2.10/1.50 for adults/children.

Besenghi degli Ughi Palace Considered by many to be the finest building in Izola, it has sadly seen better days and from the looks of things now serves as a nightly hang out for the beer-swilling local youth. Although if you can imagine it without the grafitti and low hanging power lines it gives you some idea of the city’s past glory. By day it currently serves as Izola’s music school, which means visitors can take a look around while lessons are taking place.QGregorčičeva 76, tel. +386 (0)5 662 67 00/+386 (0)40 631 034.

Church of St Mary of Haliaetum The oldest church in Izola does its part to help make Manziolijev Trg one of the most aesthetically pleasing places in town. Other than the summer, it’s not often open to the public, but if you settle in for a drink at the nearby wine bar on any given Saturday afternoon you’ll likely be able to catch a wedding ceremony or two.QA-1, Manziolijev Trg.

St Maurus Church Sitting atop Izola’s modest high point is the parish church of the town’s patron saint, who is also responsible for watching over the Azores, shoemakers, coppersmiths and the disabled. The present church was originally built by the Venetians in 1547, with the bell tower, which bears some resemblance to its larger predecessor in St Mark’s Square in Venice, coming some forty years later. The church last saw major renovations at the end of the 19th century and still holds regular services.QD-1, Trg Svetega Mavra.

The Ugo Family Plaque Well above ground level on a tiny side street not far from Café Alle Porte, you can find the family plate of the once powerful Ugo family, who originally installed it back in 1450. After seeing several large photographs and reading a bit about its history at the tourist office, we found it slightly underwhelming in real life, especially given the fact that it clings to the wall of a newly

Ampelea gsm: 040 794 216 (Tomi) e-mail: ampelea@gmail.com

A beautiful day on the Slovenian coast 33.33 eur/person

(maximum 12 people)

Hiring a boat to cruise around the Adriatic Sea is hands down one of the most enjoyable activities that can be undertaken on Slovenia’s petite coast - a sentiment that we’ve often heard repeated by many a Slovene as well.

Not only does this afford you and your fellow sailors the luxury to go where you want when you want, but you can also avoid the crowded beaches during the summertime and explore sights off the proverbial beaten path. While the harbours of Slovenia’s coastal town are full of boats for hire, one of the most unique experience you can have is on the Ampelea, which offers a passengers the same convenience of the rest, along with some authentic charm and history.

The Ampelea is a type of sailboat called a štilac, which was commonly used as a cargo vessel in the eastern Adriatic during the second half of the 19th century. The boat itself dates back to 1930, and underwent more than a year of renovations after being purchased from a small Croatian fishing village by the current owners in 2004. It can comfortably accommodate up to eight people on longer journeys, and shorter half-day, full-day and romantic evening cruises are also available. Further details, prices and more info about the boat’s history can be found on the website.Qtel. +386 (0)40 794 216, ampelea@gmail.com, www.ampelea.com. renovated building, but we’ll admit that when we stumbled upon it quite by mistake one morning it felt like winning some kind of sightseeing scavenger hunt.

QA-2, Gasilska Ulica.

Shopping Vina Božič The Božič family has been tending their vineyards in the hills surrounding Izola for well over a century, 1902 to be exact, with the current generation combining the age-old knowledge acquired from their ancestors with modern production, bottling and storage methods in order to produce some of the highest quality wine in the area. Primarily growing the local Istrian grape varieties Malvasia and Refosco on some 12 hectares of lands, the family launched a new label in 2005, which has already been awarded multiple gold medals at several prestigious wine festivals. Their still very reasonably priced bottled can be purchased at their shop in 14 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

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Izola the city centre (located one street south of the main roundabout) or on a visit to their wine cellar in Jagode just west of town.QPostojnska 7, tel. +386 (0)41 784 719, kristjan@ vina-bozic.com, www.vina-bozic.com.

Nightlife Ambasada Gavioli Designed by Italian architect Gianni Gavioli, who’s something of a legend in the clubbing world, this massive 1600 square metre complex can comfortably fit over 2500 people and is one of the region’s top destinations for serious club goers. The building itself is a hodgepodge of themes, materials and styles but maintains something of a warm Mediterranean vibe throughout. Events are usually only held once or twice a month at most, but could be worth planning your trip around if you’re a big fan of electronic music.QF-3, Industrijska 10, www.ambasadagavioli. net. PALE Kantina The wine bar in the cellar of Hotel Delfin, attracts a boisterous mix of visitors during the peak months of the summer season, it’s cool air and authentic Istrian stone walls providing a much needed respite from the scorching sun. Of course there’s also a wide selection of both Slovene and international wine to choose from, and various meats, cheeses and other light snacks to ensure that it all doesn’t go to your head too quickly.QTomažičeva 10, tel. +386 (0)5 6607 426, www.

124 x 90 mm Open only for private groups. hotel-delfin.si.

Izola Moby Dick Bar In a town that’s essentially still an old fishing village at heart, it’s fitting that the most popular night spot is named after Melville’s famous whale, however there’s no guarantee that it’ll be packed on any given night - especially out of season. In addition to the nautical-themed paraphernalia plastered over every square centimetre of wall and ceiling, you can find an electronic dart board awkwardly positioned near the entrance and a billiard table in the back.QD-3, Dantejeva 4, tel. +386 (0)51 64 65 65, info@mobydickisola.com, www.mobydickisola.com.

Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PJALB Wine Bar Manzioli Operated by the Zaro family, who have called Izola home for around 700 years, the bar occupies the ground floor of a former palace on the old town’s most picturesque square. It’s one of our favourite spots on the entire coast for a drink, and the best place in Izola to sample quality local wines. If you’re there on a Saturday afternoon you’re also likely to catch at least one wedding ceremony at the church opposite.QA-1, Manziolijev Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)5 616 21 37, bruno.zaro@t-2.net. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 8:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 8:00 - 01:00. JAB

AccomModation Delfin Located right next to the marina, Deflin has been welcoming guests for more than 30 years. With a heated outdoor sea water pool, a smaller indoor pool and its own beach, it’s

Tomažičeva 10, 6310 Izola

16 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

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one of the best options around for those wanting to spend a significant amount of their time in the water. Request a sea-facing room for some incredible sunsets over the Adriatic and lovely views of Izola’s old town, which is only 500m away along a well-kept walking path.QC-3, Tomažičeva 10, tel. +386 (0)5 6607 400, rezervacije@hotel-delfin.si, www.hotel-delfin.si. 219 rooms (singles €45-64, doubles €76-114). PTALBKC hhh Stara Šola Korte This beautifully renovated old schoolhouse is a great option for those who would prefer the charms of a peaceful countryside village to the more tourist-centric coastal towns, although it definitely helps to have your own transport as Korte is actually closer to the Croatian frontier than Izola or Portorož. Brightly coloured private rooms and dormitories are reasonably priced especially

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for larger groups and longer stays, and the surrounding hills, villages and vineyards are just begging to be explored by bike, foot or horseback.QKorte 74, tel. +386 (0)5 642 11 14/+386 (0)31 375 889, info@hostelstarasola.si, www.hostel-starasola.si/eng. 17 rooms & 2 apartments (dorms €20-24, doubles €40-48, quads €68-84, apartments €80-100). A6LW Bele Skale Tourist Agency Can arrange rooms and apartments around Izola, although be aware that the former are often in short supply and there is a strict 3 night minimum for the latter (even if you’re in town doing research for a guide book), so advanced booking is must. They also offer various excursions as far afield as Venice, and boat trips lasting from 3 hours to an entire day.QE-2, Cankarjev Drevored 2, tel. +386 (0)5 640 35 55, www.beleskale.si.

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Piran

Piran waiter didn’t seem overly amused when we tried to order dolphin (‘You don’t have dolphin? But isn’t delfin Slovene for dolphin?’).QA-1, Kosovelova 4, tel. +386 (0)5 673 24 48, delfin.piran@gmail.com, www.delfinpiran. si. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (€6-21). PJAB Fontana Tucked away behind a large stone cistern on the 1st of May Square, Fontana is the place to come if you’ve grown weary of seafood. Of course this being Piran fish is not absent from the menu entirely, but the focus here is on Balkan cuisine which generally means plates piled high with a variety of meat that has been spiced and grilled to perfection. Combination platters for two are a great value and will let you have a taste of everything.QB-1, Gallusova 2, tel. +386 (0)5 673 12 00. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Tue Closed during winter. (€5-16). PJAB Galeb In the north of town just around the corner from the pathway leading up to St George Cathedral, this small family-run affair is another great option for superb home-made seafood dishes. Savo Ristič handles things in the kitchen, while his wife Mija stays out front making guests feel at home as they crowd around a half dozen cosy tables. Highly recommended for a more intimate dining experience.QA/B-1, Pusterla 5, tel. +386 (0)5 673 32 25. Open 11:00 - 16:00; 18:00-23:00. (€5-19). JAG

Piran is quite likely Slovenia’s prettiest town, photo by Matej Kastelic / Shutterstock

Piran is to the Adriatic what Bled is to the Alps and Slovenia as a whole is to Central Europe: tiny, friendly and overwhelmingly picturesque. It's a town that is almost impossible not to fall in love with on your first visit, and if you only have time for a day trip you'll likely want to make plans to return. We also only half-jokingly added "family residence in Piran - preferably renovated" to our list of things we now look for in potential significant others, but that's only because we're superficial.

Despite it's modest size Piran is awash in superlatives. It boasts what is undeniably the country's finest square, the 19th-century Tartinijev Trg named after the composer Giuseppe Tartini, and what has to be one of the most dramatically situated churches anywhere in Europe, St George Cathedral and its spectacular bell tower perched on the hill overlooking the town and the sea. In addition, its numerous restaurants not only turn out some of the best seafood we've ever eaten but also serve it in some equally unforgettable settings.

Metre for metre this petite Venetian port can hold its own against anyone, including the imperial capital just over the horizon that was responsible for much of its fortune.

In fact Piran does have the same kind of open-air museum feel to it as Venice, only on a much much smaller scale (and without the €6 espressos, stagnant lagoon smell, periodic flooding and constant worry of sinking into the sea).

However, once you venture from the heavily trafficked waterfront and central square down the narrow back streets, 18 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

Tourist Information Boasting perhaps the best address of any tourist information centre in Slovenia, TIC Piran has the privilege of calling the ground floor of the town’s gleaming white Venetian town hall on Tartini Square home. While the interior is on a bit more humble scale than the façade would suggest, there’s a huge selection books, brochures, maps, flyers and more from seemingly every tourist-oriented venue on the coast and beyond. But don’t worry, the cheerful staff manning the counter can help you make sense of it all.QC-2, Tartinijev Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)5 673 44 40, fax +386 (0)5 673 44 41, ticpi@portoroz.si, www. portoroz.si. Open 09:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-14:00 (SeptJune), 09:00-20:00 (July-Aug).

Gostilna Pri Mari This cosy, rustic restaurant is just your typical story of a girl from Venice falling in love with a Slovene boy, moving to Piran and sometime thereafter opening a restaurant specialising in Istrian and Venetian cuisine fresh from the sea. Okay perhaps that’s not the most typical of stories, but now more than a decade on, the little restaurant near the entrance to town has built a reputation as one of the coast’s top dining destinations, as much for the convivial atmosphere and genuine hospitality of the hosts Mara and Tomi, as for the excellent cuisine they serve.QDantejeva 17, tel. +386 (0)41 616 488/+386 (0)5 673 4735, www. primari-piran.com. Open 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-18:00.

Closed in January, and 16:00-18:00 in summer. PA

the crumbling façades of ancient villas, freshly-laundered clothes hanging from windows overhead and the odd overgrown garden let you know that Piran should not be mistaken for some manufactured cultural Disneyland - the charms are real and, yes, people do actually live here.

Restaurants Casa Nostromo A relative newcomer (only opened in 2013), Casa Nostromo has quickly become a popular addition to Piran’s culinary scene. Located just opposite the old town harbour, the nautical-themed restaurant specialises in simple, fresh Istrian cuisine, prepared using only local ingredients and accompanied by a well-chosen wine list. The selection of cocktails and spirits is also said to be quite ample - it is officially referred to as a ‘restaurant and lounge bar’ after all.QTomšičeva 24, tel. +386 (0)30 200 000, www.piranisin.com.

Delfin Boasting a bit more authentic charm compared to some of the competition around the corner, Delfin lays claim to being the oldest fish restaurant in town and has the unique distinction of being located in a 500 year-old former municipal building. The food is quite good - especially when accompanied by some cheap house wine - and the service friendly and unhurried, although our slovenian-istria.inyourpocket.com

Ribja restavracija Tri vdove

Prešernovo nabrežje 4, 6330 Piran/Pirano tel: + 386 5 673 02 90 facebook/slovenia.inyourpocket

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Piran Ivo This place came highly recommended by some of our Slovene friends who know a thing or two about quality cuisine, and we can’t say that we were disappointed. It may look a little worse for wear than some of the other places you pass along the promenade, but every item on our reasonably-priced combo platter was cooked to perfection. Would we be able to tell it apart from the competition in a blind taste test? It’s highly unlikely we’ll ever have to.QA-1, Gregorčičeva 31, tel. +386 (0)5 673 22 33. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-24). PJAB La Bottega dei Sapori A relative newcomer to Piran’s culinary scene, Bottega nevertheless boasts one of the finest locations of any restaurant on the coast - occupying a sizeable swath of the town’s famed Tartini Square. With 40 years of experience, head chef Sergio Vuk sees to it that each and every dish coming from the kitchen is a worthy compliment to the venue, and the menu features traditional Istrian dishes with hints of Italian and French influence. Perhaps best of all the reasonable prices here belie the high quality, so ordering multiple courses and lingering over a bottle of prized Slovene wine is definitely recommended.QKajuhova 12, tel. +386 (0)59 920 474, labottegapirano@ gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PJB Pavel & Pavel 2 This extremely popular family-run seafood restaurant is something of an institution on the waterfront of Piran. In order to accommodate the demand from both

Piran tourists and locals, they had to open a second location - the imaginatively named Pavel 2, lest there be any confusion - just a couple steps away. The covered outdoor dining area is close enough to the sea to catch your own dinner, although it’s probably a better idea to just enjoy the superb view and leave the angling to old Pavel. But most importantly the food actually manages to back up its oversized reputation.QA-1, Prešernovo Nabrežje, tel. +386 (0)5 674 71 02/+386 (0)5 674 71 01, pavel.piran@siol.net. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

TJAUBK Pirat A quieter alternative for those who would like to avoid the omnipresent crowds at the main clutch of seafood places on Prešernovo Nabrežje but still fancy a proper plate of fish with views of the water, although in this case that water is the port rather than the open sea. There are usually a couple of daily specials sans fish for around €7, but prices tend to be on par with those at its higher volume competition on the other side of town.QA-1, Župančičeva 26, tel. +386 (0)5673 14 81. Open 10:00 – 23:00. (€5.5-18). PJAB Pizzeria Petica The kind of place where locals drop in for a drink before heading home, kids wait impatiently for takeaway pizzas, and cute scruffy dogs give looks that make it irresistible not to feed them on the sly when their owner’s not looking [editor’s note: we admit nothing], Petica is

Ribja Kantina Restaurant Savudrijska ulica 1 6330 Piran - Pirano

Phone: + 386 (0)41 574 509

a Piran institution, and on top of everything else they make perhaps the best pizza on the coast. The menu also includes excellent homemade pastas, various grilled meat dishes and salads, all of which are a great value. During the lunch and dinner rushes you’ll likely have a bit of wait.QŽupančičeva 6, tel. +386 80 3588.

Open 11:00 - 23:00.

Ribja Kantina Walking along the Piran shoreline it is hard to distinguish from which of the many restaurants the delicious aromas are wafting. What is for sure is that Ribja Kantina is contributing its share. A stone’s throw from the promenade and few minutes’ walk from Tartini Square, this specialist seafood restaurant serves up beautiful fresh seafood with classic Adriatic dishes and excellent daily specials.

Order a glass (or bottle) of local wine to complete the quintessential Piran experience.QB-2, Savudrijska 1, tel. +386 (0)41 574 509. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Tri Vdove Boasting a well-deserved reputation for friendly and efficient service, Tri Vdove (or the Three Windows) is an excellent spot to stop for lunch or a sunset dinner along Piran’s main waterfront promenade. It should come as no surprise that the menu is dominated by page after page of fish and other seafood dishes, however, various steak and grilled meat dishes are also available for those who have already had their fill of sea-based creatures.

The house wine has the benefit of being both high quality and inexpensive, giving you an extra reason to linger after the meal and appreciate the views.QPrešernovo Nabrežje 4, tel. +386 (0)5 673 02 90/+386 (0)41 507 653. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€.

Cafés Café Teater Housed in the golden yellow theatre building between Hotel Piran and the pier, Teater’s always busy terrace spills over onto the promenade where you can lounge atop comfy pillows and observe the comings and goings of the port. The café pulls double duty as the town’s premier nightspot, which would come highly recommended even if it had some competition. If that weren’t enough they also rent scooters and some fabulous apartments across the harbour.QB-2, Stjenkova 1, tel. +386 (0)41 63 89 33, www.piranjein.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PJAB Tartini Café In a town were the famous composer unwittingly lends his name to just about everything, we’re not exactly sure how this became the Tartini café but we assume it wasn’t an easy feat. In any event, housed in a beautiful building that was once the old town Loggia in the north corner of Tartini Square, it’s definitely worthy of the name - although it’s pastel furniture and futuristic egg shell chairs do seem a bit out of place.QTartinijev Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)5 673 33 81. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PJAB

20 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

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Gostišče Delfin Kosovelova ulica 4 6330 Piran

Tel: 05 673 24 48 Fax: 05 673 44 48 E-mail: delfin.piran@g�ail.com

www.delfinpiran.si 2014/2015

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Piran Sightseeing Not much of an effort needs to be made to go sightseeing in Piran, in fact quite the opposite is true: it would take a Herculean feat to avoid seeing the town’s wealth of sights. In addition to a lengthy must-see list of churches, squares and palaces, there are countless less-heralded sights to be enjoyed. Piran’s cobbled backstreets and alleyways are literally lined with statues, arches, coats of arms, intricately carved doors and stately old villas just waiting to imprint themselves in visitors’ memories. The region’s long seafaring tradition is also well-represented at two nautical themed museums, and a number of art galleries - both public and private - hold regular exhibitions. Piran is easily covered on foot, although a hike up to the cathedral and further on to the remaining section of the old town wall is enough to leave us in need of a cold beer and a siesta, especially during the summer. Also be aware that many of the museums and galleries keep shorter hours in the winter, some even open by appointment only, so if you visit during the low season it’s always a good idea to drop by the helpful tourist office for all the latest information.

1st of May Square (Prvomajski Trg) The administrative centre of Piran until the 13th century, these days it stands in stark contrast to the glistening Tartinijev Trg only a couple hundred metres away: scruffy and an unkempt with the odd clump of grass poking up between stones and more than one façade unintentionally revealing brick walls beneath crumbling layers of paint, in other words, perfect. In addition to several restaurants, art galleries and a great little wine bar, a large stone cistern elevates nearly half the square a metre off the ground and serves as a stage for various music, dance and theatre performances during the summer. Flanking the stairs leading up to the now dormant wells are two allegorical statues representing Law and Justice, both of which are obligingly photogenic.QB-1.

Tartini Square (Tartinijev Trg) Already arguably the most impressive squares in Slovenia, all debate was put to rest last year when it was transformed into a pedestrian only zone with outdoor cafés taking the place of parked cars - a fact that has yet to be reflected on most internet sites, including Google Maps. Fronted by two large neo-Renaissance buildings on one side and a mélange of smaller buildings of varying architectural styles on the other,

Piran Brodarstvo Gorjan This family-run maritime company has been in the passenger transport business for three decades, nowadays catering primarily to foreign and Slovene tourists with sightseeing trips along the Slovene coast. In addition to regular return services between Portorož to Izola in the summertime, they also offer dining excursions with several different seafood meal options for 30 or more guests, with the larger of their two vessels accommodating up 147 people. More detailed info can be found on their website.QRegenta 13, tel. +386 (0)5 6730 780/+386 (0)41 664 132, info@brodarstvogorjan.si, www.brodarstvo-gorjan.si. the square itself is younger than almost all of them, having been part of Piran’s harbour until it was filled in in 1884. The square’s inner oval was given its distinctive shape when it served as the terminus for an electric railway that connected Piran to Portorož and Lucija until 1953, while its white marble surface was something of a posthumous gift to the late Tartini in 1992 on what would have been his 300th birthday.QC-2.

Town Hall The modern town hall dominates the northern end of Tartinijev Trg and is the administrative centre of the Municipality of Piran, which includes the nearby towns of Portorož, Strunjan and Lucija. It was originally built by the Venetians shortly after their arrival at the end of the 13th century, but was torn down in 1877 and rebuilt in a more contemporary style. Several statues and coats of arms that adorned the original building are on display in the atrium.QC-2, Tartinijev Trg 2.

St George Cathedral Watching over the town and visible from nearly every open space is the massive cathedral dedicated to Piran’s patron saint, the dragon slaying young knight from Capadoccia, George. Legend has it that towards the end of the 16th century the cathedral fell into a state of disrepair, which was so troubling that the Saint George himself made an appearance in order to motivate the citizenry to undertake the necessary renovations, and even blinded a sceptical mayor to show he meant business. True or not, the cathedral saw some major

renovations shortly thereafter, including the addition of a nearly 50m bell tower, which is a scale copy of the San Marco Campanile in Venice. Throw in some stunning views of both the city and the sea and you have the makings for one of the most impressive churches in Slovenia.QC-1, Adamičeva 6.

Tartini House Originally going by the name ‘Casa Pizagrua’ this somewhat modest palace next to St Peter’s Church on the eastern side Tartinijev Trg was the birthplace of the composer - and namesake of roughly half of Piran - Giuseppe Tartini. It underwent extensive renovations in the late 1980s and is now home to the main offices of the Italian Community in Piran. There is also a small museum on the first floor displaying, among other things, one of the master’s violins, his death mask and various letters, manuscripts and scores.QC-2, Tartinijev Trg 7.

AccomModation Max Up the hill from Tartini Square, this small boutique hotel is housed in a beautiful 300 year old house and is one of our favourite places to stay on the coast, although if you’re a light sleeper the over-active bells at the cathedral next door may prove bothersome. Max, the owner and apparently sole employee, is a friendly old bulldog and ardent Liverpool supporter who’ll be glad to carry your luggage up the narrow stairs or talk your ear off over coffee, but we’ve also heard rumours that he can have a bit of bark if you interrupt his afternoon siesta.QC-2, Korpusa 26, tel. +386 (0)5 673 34 76/+386 (0)41 69 29 28, info@maxpiran.com, www.maxpiran.com.

6 rooms (doubles €60-70). PJA hhh Tartini With apologies to several other worthy contenders, Tartini Square is without any question the finest urban space in all of Slovenia and for our money the views overlooking it from this adjacent hotel of the same name are the best in town - all the better that they come without the €10 premium charged for rooms with a sea view. Inside, the well-appointed rooms are warm and spacious, and the hotel’s lone suite and its private terrace are a great value if there is someone you’d like to impress.QC-2, Tartinijev Trg 15, tel. +386 (0)5 671 10 00, info@ hotel-tartini-piran.com, www.hotel-tartini-piran.com. 45 rooms and 1 suite (singles €62-88, doubles €84-118, triples €114-162, suite €140-192). hhh Vila Mia Chanel These family run rental apartments are the perfect place to unwind and relax. Behind the postcard cute façade lies six spacious and luxuriously decked out apartments that come complete with equipped modern kitchenettes and all have views of the beautiful Piran coast, which is only 20m from the front door, while the private terrace is the perfect place to enjoy the sunset. Vila Mia Chanel also has private parking spaces at no extra cost (an absolute rarity in Piran) so even your car gets a great sea view.QB-5, Dantejeva 31, tel. +386 (0)41 711 888/+386 (0)51 694 100, apartma.piran@gmail. com, www.piranisin.com. From €120 per night.

22 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

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RESTAURANT - PAVEL & PAVEL 2

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phone: +386 (0)5 674 71 01 email: pavel.piran@siol.net Piran

We can be found in the magnificent scenic fortified town of Piran, a town with a rich cultural heritage. Family restaurants PAVEL and PAVEL 2 are located side by side on the beautiful coast of Piran.

We offer you international cuisine with an emphasis on seafood specialties.

Welcome.

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Portorož

Portorož Stara Oljka Harkening back to simpler more relaxed time when locals used to while away hot summer days chatting under the cool shade of an olive tree, Stara Oljka, or the Old Olive Tree in English, offers traditional Istrian cuisine in a pleasant atmosphere right along the waterfront in the centre of Portorož. Fittingly, several venerable old olive trees still provide shade for diners on the large sea-facing terrace in the back. In addition to the wide selection of fish and seafood dishes, there are ample meat and vegetarian options on the menu, and the knowledgable staff can help recommend the perfect wine to compliment it.QE-3, Obala 20, tel. +386 (0)5 674 85 55, www.staraoljka.si. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

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Cafés Cacao A modern, stylish café that’s as well-known for its homemade ice cream and cakes as it is for its coffee. The interior is done up in the minimalist nouveau Euro-style seems to be as popular in Slovenia as it is elsewhere on the continent, while the staff are generally attentive and fast. The place also functions as a bar once the clock hits a reasonable hour for drinking - what time this is exactly is not for us to say, but we can highly recommend the cocktails.QD-2, Obala 14, tel. +386 (0)5 674 10 35, www.cacao.si, Open 08:00 03:00. PTAR6UGBX

nIGHTLIFE Kanela Bar A fabulous rock ‘n’ roll hangout during the summer time, day and night. The bar is actually so small you can barely fit more than 10 people inside at any given moment, but most prefer the pleasure of the beach directly in front of the amongst the tall palm trees where the music is still heard loud and clear. Live rock concerts are frequent and the atmosphere surely heats up in the late hours with plenty of singing and dancing: a beach party in the making! We’ve personally spent many a late night (and early morning) here. QD-2, Obala 14, tel. +386 (0)5 674 61 81, www.kanelabar. com. Open 09:00 - 03:00. 6UEGBX Paprika With an unbeatable location in the middle of Portorož Bay, Paprika’s position allows guests to enjoy the most beautiful views of the Istrian coastline, while they enjoy exceptional service, top quality drinks, cocktails, snacks and some of the best ice cream around. Of course many people come here for the views inside, as this café by day turns into one of the most popular nightlight venues on the coast after the sun goes down.QD-3, Obala 20a, tel. +386 (0)40 366 299, info@paprika.si, www. paprika.si. Open 08:00 - 03:00. Admission free.

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In Portorož the fun really begins after the sun goes down, photo by Urosr / Shutterstock

With only 47km of Adriatic coast Slovenes have to make the most of every centimetre. The result is a coastline dotted with half a dozen or so notable towns, each with its own unique character, strengths and weaknesses. The poetically named Portorož, or Port of Roses, is home to one of the largest modern marinas on the Adriatic and is the undisputed king of Slovenia’s coastal tourism trade. Although it lacks the Venetian old towns that can be found else where along the coast, its numerous hotels, restaurants, conference centres, spas and casinos make it a popular destination for both foreigners and Slovenes, and an excellent base for day trips and excursions farther afield.

Portorož has been a tourist destination as far back as the 13th century, when it developed a niche as a health resort, and towards the end of the 19th century it became widely known for the healing properties of its mud and salt water baths. This reputation has persisted till today, with the city currently home to no less than six different wellness spas and resorts. Aside from spas, Portorož alsoplays host to various national and international conferences, exhibitions and trade fairs, which enables the city to maintain a bustling vibrant air throughout the entire year. One of its largest annual events is Internautica, an international boat show held every May, which attracts over 400 exhibitors and 40,000 visitors - it’s a sight to see even if you’re not in the market for a new luxury yacht.

24 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

Restaurants Padela Set near the Portorož Marina at the far end of the main seaside promenade, Padela is one of the few places in town that is both patronised and recommended by locals. The interior is modernly renovated, but in the classic Istrian style, with wooden ceilings and limestone walls, while there’s also a large outdoor terrace. Highlights of the menu include classic Istrian dishes like homemade pasta with truffles, seafood from the Adriatic and local Karst prosciutto, with much more reasonable prices than the majority of the more centrally located establishments.

QObala 99, tel. +386 (0)5 902 36 59, gostilna.padela@ gmail.com. Open 10:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-01:00 Fleur de Sel Named for the crème de la crème of sea salts, for which Portorož has long been known, this fine restaurant within the Kempinski Palace combines modern fusion cuisine, a friendly laid-back atmosphere and exceptional views of the sea from its position on the first floor. The perfect place for a relaxed lunch during a long conference day or a morning spent at the pool.QD-2, Kempinski Palace, Obala 45, tel. +386 (0)5 692 7000, reservations.portoroz@ kempinski.com, www.kempinski.com/portoroz. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PJAL slovenian-istria.inyourpocket.com

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Portorož Sightseeing Avditorij Portorož Cultural Center The auditorium’s logo doesn’t seem to have been updated since the disco era and it seems it’s conference centre may not have had any major changes since then either, nonetheless it still plays host to a number of conferences and major concerts throughout the year. Check their schedule to see whether they’ve got something to your interest.QE-2, Senčna Pot 10, tel. +386 (0)5 676 67 00, info@avditorij.si, www.avditorij.si.

Forma Viva Established in the early 1960s by two Slovene artists, this sculpture park now serves as home to a large park full of mostly abstract pieces by an international mix of artists. Head inside and along the beautiful grassy area for a meditative walk, or perch yourself on one of the many benches and watch the boats sail by. A very unique treat!QC/D-5, Seča, tel. +386 (0)5 671 20 80, info@obalne-galerije.si, www. obalne-galerije.si. Open whole day. No admission fee.

Holy Church of our Lady of the Rosary Travellers who have grown accustomed to and bored with elaborate old European churches, might enjoy this interesting little break from the ancient and rarefied. Constructed in the 1980s, with wooden surroundings and small stained glass, this interesting piece of architecture seems to evoke a happy hippy feeling of Catholicism, with a not-so-pained Jesus leaning down from the cross to speak to a group of friends.The outside lobby offers free postcards and reading material.QD-3, Cvetna Pot 4, tel. +386 (0)5674 67 00.

Portorož INTERNAUTICA 07.05 Wednesday - 11.05 Sunday The Internautica International Boat Show is the Adriatic’s most significant marine lifestyle event with a long tradition dating back almost two decades. Held every year in Marina Portorož, it has a strong influence on purchasing and strategic decision-making in the nautical industry market. Internautica features the largest display of boats in the region, and each year there are more than 250 specialized exhibitors participating and well over 30,000 visitors from Slovenia and neighbouring countries.

The Show strives to offer boating enthusiasts the most complete picture of the marine market, whilst at the same time providing an entertainment package that will keep both enthusiasts and those simply looking for a good day out engaged and having fun for their entire visit. Internautica is committed to providing all exhibitors with the best possible environment in which to show their goods and services.QMarina Portorož, Solinarjev 8, tel. +386 (0)1 56 55 126, www.internautica.net.

Marina Portorož Located less than a kilometre from the centre of town, the vast modern marina in Portorož is the gateway to the Mediterranean not only for Slovenia but all of Central Europe.

With over one thousand berths accommodating boats up to 22 metres in length, it is one of the largest marinas in the entire Adriatic. Aside from the standard dockside facilities the marina essentially contains a miniature resort with guest

ROYAL ADVENTURES ON THE SLOVENIAN SEA

Fish picnics - Panoramic - Fishing - Private groups - Celebrations - Romantic dinners

+386 31 662 348, regina@zlatecan.com, www.barka-regina.si

padela

Discover its exquisite cuisine based on istrian culinary tradirion with influencesof the mediterraniean yet.

Explore the fabulous taste of Adriatic sea food, special meat, istrian truffles and home-made pasta which is prepared.

+386 (05) 902 36 59 / gostilna.padela@gmail.com Obala 99, Portorož

26 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

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rooms, restaurants and cafés, as well as sports facilities including tennis courts, swimming pools, a fitness centre and even a driving range. In May the marina plays host to Internautica, a large international boat show which attracts over 40,000 visitors each year.QE-4/5, Cesta solinarjev 8, tel. +386 (0)5 6761 100, fax +386 (0)5 6761 210, booking@ marinap.si, www.marinap.si.

Sečovlje SALINA Nature Park Hundreds of years ago, salt was a commodity almost as valuable as gold and rulers fought to acquire and control its means of collection. Sečovlje was one such rarified area and today it is preserved as a park with a visitors’ centre and museum. A fascinating piece of history, the salt pans are not only an interesting public park, they are also a wellpreserved natural habitat for birds. The trek out to the pans is an interesting one but make sure to pack your insect repellant, not all of the inhabitants here are friendly.Qtel. +386 (0)5 672 13 30, kpss@soline.si, www.kpss.si. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Admission: €5 adults; €3 students, seniors; €10 families; free for children under age six.

Accommodation Hostel Europa Portorož The Slovene coast’s newest hostel provides a much needed option for budget travellers visiting glitzy Portorož. And it’s not just the prices that are great, the hostel is located in the centre of town 50m from one of Portorož’s most popular beaches. Its nine themed rooms are clean and comfortable, and the dorms with en suites are particularly good as they have two toilets. Dorms can also be converted into family rooms and even pets are welcome (with advanced notice). Although there is no kitchen guests won’t go hungry as the hostel serves an excellent breakfast and in the afternoon their bar offers reasonably priced local wine and delicious bar snacks.QE-2, Senčna Pot 2, tel. +386 (0)5 90 325 74, info@ehp.si, ehp.si. 9 rooms with 49 beds (dorms from €22 with breakfast, €24 in July/Aug €24).

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Barka Regina There’s no better way to see Portorož, Piran or the rest of the breathtaking Slovenian coast than from the sea!

If you’re not one of the lucky few who have their own boats, no need to worry, the Barka Regina tourist boat offers various type of trips at reasonable prices. Panoramic sightseeing trips lasting up to three hours cost only €15 per person, while other organised itineraries cruise for almost twice as long and also include full seafood feasts with drinks. The so-called Queen of Portorož can also be chartered for extended fishing trips, birthday parties, romantic dinners and more. Amenities on the classic wooden boat include a bar, full kitchen, an entertainment system and even wireless internet.Qtel. +386 (0)31 518 338/+386 (0)31 662 438, regina@ zlatecan.com, www.barka-regina.si. facebook/slovenia.inyourpocket

Grand Hotel Metropol High up on a hill overlooking the beach area, Metropol is one of the major sprawling hotel complexes along the seaside strip. The complex also features a popular casino, an adult nightclub, and full (though slightly dated ) spa facilities. The hotel has the distinction of having a direct bridge to the beach from a passageway through the lobby, and from there you can also access their private swimming pool and lounge area on the beach front.QE-3, Obala 77, tel. +386 (0)5 690 10 00, fax +386 (0)5 690 19 00, sales@metropolgroup.si, www. metropolgroup.si. 103 rooms (singles €185, doubles €250-270, suites €420-550). POTHARF� GKDCW hhhhh Kempinski Palace Portorož This iconic hotel has taken centre stage in Portorož since it first opened in 1910 during the waning years of the Habsburg Empire. Combining Viennese elegance, modern design and of course the famous Kempinski flair for style and service, the hotel is quite simply one of the grandest places to stay in all of Slovenia. If price is no object, book one of the two Laguna suites, which include a rooftop terrace with a private Jacuzzi and breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea.QD-2, Obala 45, tel. +386 (0)5 692 70 00/+386 (0)5 692 79 50, reservations.portoroz@kempinski.com, www.kempinski.com/portoroz. 164 rooms and 17 suites (singles from €135, doubles from €155, suites from €450). PTJHAUILEB� KXCW hhhhh 2014/2015

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The Karst

The Karst warmer months and hearty central European dishes in the fall and winter. Highly recommended.QSlap 18, Vipava, tel. +386 (0)5 368 5010/+386 (0)41 405 903, info@majerija.si, www.majerija.si. Multi-course meal with wine from €4070 per person.

Morski Konjiček Found near the town of Pivka just off the main Postojna-PivkaIlirska Bistrica road (some 15 minutes south of the A1 motorway), this sprawling countryside restaurant is a popular stop for Slovenes and tourists after a day at the coast. Given that its name translates ‘seahorse’ in English, it’s not surprising that fish and other seafood specialities are the main focus of the menu here, but for those who have already had their fill of such fare, there are plenty of other dishes and some fine pizzas. For families there’s a children’s playground for a before or after dinner romp, and for those who’d like to stay for a drink or five the place is open till the wee hours at the weekends.QMala Pristava 10, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)5 753 20 55/+386, (0)41 523 325, darija.hrvatic@gmail.com. Open 11:00-24:00, Fri 11:0004:00, Sat 09:00-04:00, Sun 09:00-24:00. Closed Mon except for holidays.

The hilltop town of Štanjel is known as the Jewel of the Karst, photo courtesy of TIC Štanjel

Geographically speaking the Karst Plateau, or simply the Karst (Kras in Slovene), occupies the large area of limestone highlands stretching from the southern edges of the Vipava Valley in the north to the northern parts of Croatia’s Istrian peninsula in the south, which is not to be confused with the still relatively new Green Karst (Zeleni Kras) regional tourism brand, or the more general Karst topographical features that can be found in pockets across all of Slovenia. The region actually gave its name to the distinctive topography where layers of dissolved bedrock separate, often creating networks of caves and subterranean rivers, which has led to it often being referred to as the Classical Karst (just to make things more complicated).

Regardless of semantics, the region is a fascinating place with many notable destinations that can be visited on easy day trips from Slovenia’s coastal towns. Perhaps most noteworthy are the UNESCO protected Škocjan Caves located just outside the town of Divača, while the small village of Lipica near Sežana is known throughout the world for its white Lipizzaner horses. Further to the north the hilltop town of Štanjel is about as postcard worthy as they come, with its winding cobble streets offering sweeping vistas of the valley below. Of course the region as a whole is perhaps best known for its gastronomic contributions such as the dry-cured Karst prosciutto (kraški pršut) and the dark red Terrano or Teran wine, which is also fashioned into a sweet liquor that is unfailingly offered at the end of every meal in the region.

28 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

Restaurants Gostilna Skok An excursion into the Karst countryside is a must during any extended stay at the Slovenian Coast, and the charming family-run Skok guesthouse in the hills above Sežana makes an excellent destination. The menu here focuses exclusively on local seasonal dishes, with house specialties including jota stew with sausage, homemade gnocchi, hand-cut prosciutto, venison steaks and other dishes. In 2011, Skok was one of the founding members of the Gostilna Slovenija brand, which has strict criteria for guaranteeing the authenticity Slovene cuisine and wine at establishments proudly displaying its trademark bell. If the the village setting takes your fancy, there are seven spacious modern guest rooms available for overnight stays.QŠtorje 27, Sežana, tel. +386 (0) 768 54 09/+386 (0)41 725 504, gostilna.skok@gmail.com, www.gostilna-skok. com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PTALB Majerija This villa outside the village of Slap is one of the premier gastronomic destinations of the region, and, budget permitting, a perfect place to end a day of wine tasting in Vipava. A head chef who moonlights as a professor at a culinary school in Trieste endows the place with a certain pedigree and also guarantees a steady stream of Italian visitors at the weekends.

All the ingredients are freshly sourced from local producers (or the herb garden out back), and the oft-changing menu is seasonal, focussing on light Mediterranean cuisine during the slovenian-istria.inyourpocket.com

Ruj Set in an unassuming stone house just steps from the Italian border, Ruj is perennially on the shortlist of Slovenia’s best restaurants and fittingly named after the Slovene word for Sumac - a small nondescript shrub that produces a brightly coloured fruit, which is ground into a tangy crimson spice.

Despite the modest surroundings, a typical meal at Ruj features course after course of exquisitely prepared dishes, using only the freshest of local ingredients, each plate accompanied by the perfectly matched Slovene wine, and optionally followed by a post-meal cigar on the terrace. For lovers of good food, it is truly an experience not to be missed. Reservations highly recommended.QDol pri Vogljah 16, Dutovlje, tel. +386 (0)5 734 17 20, peter.patajac1@siol.net. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. €€€.

Sightseeing Štanjel This hilltop village, known as the Jewel of the Karst, is one of Slovenia’s most spectacular towns. Steeped in history, the town was built by the Romans, while Ottoman raids in the 16th century prompted the ruling Counts of Cobenzl to add extensive fortifications. Despite sustaining considerable damage during the Second World War, this charming medieval

Gostilna in pizzerija Morski Konjiček

Mala Pristava 10, 6257 Pivka tel: +386 5 753 20 55 gsm: +386 41 523 325 email: darija.hrvatic@gmail.com

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Gostilna SKOK / Štorje 27, Sežana / +386 (05) 768 54 09 www.gostilna-skok.com

The karst invigorate and creations town has since been restored to its former glory. Entering the town through the stone archway is like stepping back in time, gravel streets wind past traditional Karst houses leading onto cute little squares with ancient stone wells. To get a proper view into traditional life in Štanjel, head to the Karst House (Kraška Hiša), which has been converted into a fascinating little ethnographic museum. The parish church and remains of the 16th-century castle are the most prominent landmarks in town, with parts of the later having been converted into an exhibition space that houses an excellent collection of Trieste-born Slovenian artist Lojze Spacal, famous for his graphic representations of the Karst and coastal regions. The castle’s pleasant courtyard is an ideal place to soak up Štanjel’s timeless atmosphere, preferably with a glass of local wine and a plate of famous Karst pruscuitto. Beneath the village the picturesque Ferrari Garden (Ferrarijev Vrt) doesn’t feature any Italian luxury cars, but the well-kept pathways, restored stone walls and mancured flora have nevertheless been declared a national monument. The garden’s highlight is small stone pool and its stunning views over the Branica Valley.

Divača This little town in the southwest of the country has long been a crossroads town and transport hub with this role only strengthening with the development of the railway - today it enjoys good connections with Ljubljana, the coast including Croatia and to the north towards Nova Gorica and Jesenice.

If you do find yourself with a couple of hours to burn while waiting for a train, the 17th-century Škrateljnova house is one 2014/2015

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The Karst

The to Karst What to see see What

Škocjan Caves

LIPICA STUD STUD FARM LIPICA

Quite simply put, Slovenia’s Škocjan Caves are one of the most astounding natural attractions on the planet, but you don’t have to take our word for it, as there is a significant amount of official documentation to support this assertion. One of only three locations in Slovenia to be recognised as a world heritage site by UNESCO (with the other two being the mercury mine of Idrija and the Prehistoric Pile-Dwellings of Ljubljansko Barje), Škocjan is the only one to be on the natural monument list, with this distinction also notably given to only three other caves in the entire world.

Since 1996, the territory above and around the caves has been a protected regional park, and was also recognised as the first underground wetland in 1999 under the Ramsar Convention. However, at the end of the day it’s the magnificent Karst cave system itself that is responsible for attracting an estimated 100,000 visitors per year, the vast majority of whom (ourselves included) cannot believe their eyes.

First written about during the 2nd century BC, the caves had actually been discovered long before this, with archeological evidence proving that they had been used as far back as the 12th century BC. Of the many artefacts found within the caves, the majority are weapons (eg spearheads, axes, swords) and fragments of vessels and other domestic items used by people during Bronze Age. Created by the Reka River, which flows for some 55km above ground before carving its way into the soft limestone that makes up the Karst region, one of the two possible tours of the caves follows the natural entrance made by the river near the village of Škocjan. This tour can be done both with or without a guide, and takes in the sections of the caves where many of the most important archeological finds were made.

However, the more popular tour begins at the other end of the caves, through a man-made entrance, and passes by the main sights, including the so-called Silent Cave (Tiha Jama) and exits by way of the underground Reka River canyon, traversing the dizzying 50m-high Cerkvenik Bridge. Only guided tours are possible along this route. A third option is the above-ground educational trail, which circumscribes the landscape of the park, with special emphasis given to the flora and fauna, as well as the rich cultural heritage of the area.

Located just outside the town of Divača in the southwest of Slovenia, Škocjan is easily reached by both car (via the A1 motorway) and train, with up to 16 of the latter travelling between Ljubljana and Divača each day, from where it’s a 3km hike along a well-marked path to the visitor information centre in Škocjan. Alternatively, several trains are met by free shuttle buses.QŠkocjan 2, Divača, tel. +386 (0)5 70 82 110, psj.info@psj.gov.si, www.park-skocjanskejame.si. Admission prices vary greatly for each of the three paths, from €20/15/10 for adults/students/children for a combined ticket for both underground routes, to free admission for the educational trail without a guide.

has flourLipicaStud StudFarm Farm flourLipica hashas flourished ished tremendously tremendously sinceconits since its tremendously since its 400 years years conception ception over over 400 400 years ago. amongst beautiful ago.amongst Set amongst Set beautifulbeautiful natural surroundings,it not natural surroundings,it not surroundings,it is not only isishome home to more more than 350 350 than toonly more than 350 Lipizzaner butin also also Lipizzaner horses, but horses, but also very rich hishistory. Since Since its verySince rich its in foundation history. its tory. by the Habsburg foundation by theCharles Habsburg Habsburg Archduke II in inone 1580, Archduke IIII in 1580, 1580, Lipica Charles has become of prominent attracLipica hasprominent become attractions one of theSlovenia most prominent the most has to offer.attractions Slovenia hasreasons to offer.this stud farm stands so proudOne of the many stands socapable proudOne of theismany reasons farm stands proudly today the origin of this the stud Lipizzaner.

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Stud Farm also nice and informative tour The (available in English, Italian,aa also offers offers nice and Croatian, informative tour and (available in English, Italian, German, French Slovene), where friendly English, Italian, guides will see thatFrench you areand wellSlovene), informedwhere aboutfriendly Lipica’s German, Croatian, where friendly most beloved and historyabout how Lipica’s of how guides will see beast, that you areextensive well informed about Lipica’s it came to be. beast, and extensive history how most beloved how of of how how centuries itFor came to be. Lipizzaners have incorporated carriage drawing into their area of expertise.

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Now,and you can you can take takeat-aa mosphere groomedLipica’s grounds, with your friendly carriage rideofthrough colourful andown peaceful atpeaceful atcarriage driver. mosphere of groomed grounds, with your own own friendly friendly To get a driver. little more active, Lipica Stud Farm hosts a varicarriage

30 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket

Škocjan Caves are truly one of Europe’s most amazing natural sights, photo by Borut Lozej / PŠJ Archives

of the best preserved examples of traditional Karst architecture is worth a look at as is the Slovenian Film Museum which it now houses. Despite not being the most interesting town itself, Divača is a good base for exploring the surroundings countryside where there are some amazing sights - not least the nearby UNESCO World Heritage listed Škocjan Caves.

Sežana The old road between Trieste and Ljubljana may take twice as long as the highway though its meandering route, dotted with little towns, historic sights and natural wonders, is well worth exploring. One of the interesting towns on the road is Sežana, located basically on the Slovene-Italian border it has long been a transport hub and regional centre for the lower Karst area. It’s also home to the huge Vina Kras winery and wine cellar, while the surrounding countryside is dotted with famed ‘osmice’ - farmhouses that traditionally open their doors for lunch and diner eight days per year. Apart from being a destination for the food obsessed, gambling obsessives flock to the town’s casino and there are also plenty of interesting cultural and natural sights in and around town. Highlights in the town include the botanical gardens which were once the private gardens of the noble Scaramanga family who developed the park in the 19th century and with hundreds of species from around the world the park was known as one of the finest in the Austro-Hungarian Empire and is still well worth a visit. Short drives from town are the impressive Vilenica caves and the famous stables of Lipica. slovenian-istria.inyourpocket.com

facebook/slovenia.inyourpocket facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

To To get get aa little little more moreactive, active,Lipica LipicaStud StudFarm Farmhosts hostsaavarivariety of of invigorating invigorating horse horse riding programmes, as well as ety ety of invigorating horse riding ridingprogrammes, programmes,as aswell wellas as lessons for more advanced riders.

If you ever imagined lessons lessons for for more more advanced advanced riders. riders. IfIf you you ever everimagined imagined yourself as as brave knight knight of old then you just might yourself yourself as aaa brave brave knight of of old old then then you you just just might might want to to seize seize the the days and give try!

On side-note, want want to seize the days days and and give give itititaaatry! try!On Onaaaside-note, side-note, they also also offer offer pony pony riding riding lessons for kids between they they also offer pony riding lessons lessons for for kids kids between between three and and seven seven years years old, where, for veryreasonable reasonable three three and seven years old, old, where, where, for foraaavery very reasonable price, the the little little one one will will learn the basics of riding horses, price, price, the little one willlearn learnthe thebasics basicsof ofriding ridinghorses, horses, and more more importantly, how to treat them. and and more importantly, importantly,how howto totreat treatthem. them.

At the end of a tiring and eventful day, retreat to the At At the the end end of of aa tiring tiring and and eventful eventful day, day, retreat retreat to to the the comfort of of your your accommodation, accommodation, where where you can enjoy comfort comfort of your accommodation, where you youcan canenjoy enjoy various delicacies delicacies of the Karst, and relay the peace various various delicacies of of the the Karst, Karst, and and relay relay inin in the the peace peace of the the secluded secluded location, location, resting up for the next day’s of of the secluded location, resting resting up up for for the the next next day’s day’s learning, riding, show or indeed onward journey.

By virlearning, learning, riding, riding, show showor orindeed indeedonward onwardjourney. journey.By Byvirvirtue of the ample facilities in the main centre, Lipica tue tue of of the the ample ample facilities facilities inin the the main main centre, centre, Lipica Lipica inin in as excellent destination destination either for for all manner manner of conferas as excellent excellent destination either either for all all mannerofofconferconferences, or to to get married. married. ences, ences, or or to get get married.

And last but but not least, least, it would be be folly not not to mention mention And And last last but not not least, itit would would be folly folly notto to mention the classical classical riding riding school! school! The The pride pride of of the the Lipica Lipica Stud Stud the the classical riding school! The pride of the Lipica Stud Farm the the cream cream of of the the crop crop stallions stallions training training their their elelFarm Farm the cream of the crop stallions training their elegant trots, turns turns and other other skills. The The training sessions sessions egant egant trots, trots, turns and and other skills. skills. The training training sessions are open to to spectatorsand and ofcourse course thereisisaabusy busy proare are open open tospectators spectators andof of coursethere there is a busyproprogramme of of equestrian equestrian events events and and shows shows to to be be considconsidgramme gramme of equestrian events and shows to be considered when planning planning your visit, visit, including the the following: ered ered when when planning your your visit, including including thefollowing: following: Day of the Lipizzaner (18 May), FEIFEI International Dressage Day Day of of the the Lipizzaner Lipizzaner (18 (18 May), May), FEI International International DresDresCompetition (23-25 May), FEI International Driving Comsage sage Competition Competition (23-25 (23-25 May), May),FEI FEIInternational InternationalDriving Driving petition (27-29 June) and Days of the Lipica Stud Farm Competition (27-29 Competition (27-29 June) June) and and Days Days of of the the Lipica Lipica Stud Stud (12-14(12-14 September).

Farm September).

Farm (12-14 September).

Event or not, anyone with even a passing interest in the Event or anyone a passing interest ininthe Event or not, not,beauties anyone with witheven even passing interest the long faced faced should notaleave leave Slovenia without long beauties should not Slovenia without long faced beauties should not leave Slovenia without paying Lipica a visit!

Q Lipica 5, Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 Lipica 5,5, Sežana, tel. paying Lipica a visit!

Q(0)5 Lipica Sežana, tel. +386 +386(0)5 (0)5 paying Lipica visit!Q 739 1580, 1580, faxa+386 +386 739 1730, info@lipica.org, 739 fax (0)5 739 1730, info@lipica.org, 739 1580, fax +386 (0)5 739 1730, info@lipica.org, www.lipica.org. www.lipica.org. www.lipica.org.

2014/2015 31 April April -- May May 2014 2014 53 53

Postojna Postojna Postojna

Postojna Postojna SPORT SPORT Located Located just just 200m 200m from from the the centre centre ofof Postojna, Postojna, and and just just aa 10-minute 10-minute walk walk from from the the region’s region’s main main attraction, attraction, the the magnificent magnificent Postojna Postojna Cave, Cave, Hotel Hotel Sport Sportisisaagood goodaccomaccommodation modationoption optionwith withclean cleancomfortable comfortablerooms roomsand andaavery very decent decent buffet buffet breakfast breakfast thrown thrownin. in.The Thehotel hotelalso alsolives livesup up to to its its name name by by offering offering bicycle bicycle storage storage and and rental, rental,whilst whilst the friendly staff are happy to arrange guided cycling the friendly staff are happy to arrange guided cycling or or hiking hiking tours tours inin the the beautiful beautiful countryside countryside surroundsurrounding ing Postojna.

Postojna.Q QKolodvorska Kolodvorska 1,1, tel. tel. +386 +386 (0)5 (0)5 720 720 22 22 44, 44, info@sport-hotel.si, info@sport-hotel.si, www.epiceco-hotels.com. www.epiceco-hotels.com. 38 38 rooms (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triples €103rooms (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triples €103118, 118,apartments apartments€65-75). €65-75).

AROUND AROUND POSTOJNA POSTOJNA

Postojna is one of the few towns that still boasts a Tito Square - photo courtesy RDO Postojnska Jama - Zeleni Kras Postojna is one of the few towns that still boasts a Tito Square - photo courtesy RDO Postojnska Jama - Zeleni Kras

With less than than 10,000 inhabitants inhabitants Postojna isis barely barely one With With less less than 10,000 10,000 inhabitants Postojna Postojna is barely one one of the the 20 20 largest largest towns towns in in Slovenia, Slovenia, but but arguably arguably none none are of of the 20 largest towns in Slovenia, but arguably none are are more well-known throughout throughout that world world (including the the more more well-known well-known throughout that that world (including (including the capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settlement capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settlecapital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settlement in the southwest of the country that wasn’t officially ment the southwest of the country thateven wasn’t even in the in southwest of the country that wasn’t even officially recogniserecognise until 1909.

The1909. reason ofreason courseofit course not so much officially until The it not recognise until 1909. The reason of course it not so much the townthe itself, but the amazing network karst caves that so town but thenetwork amazingof of karst themuch town itself, but itself, the amazing ofnetwork karst caves that lie just below its surface.

First opened to theopened public in 1819, caves lie its just belowFirst its opened surface. to First the lie justthat below surface. the public into1819, the world-famous Postojna Cave is said to have attracted public in 1819, the Postojna world-famous said to the world-famous Cave isPostojna said to Cave have isattracted more than 35 million visitors over the past two have more than 35 million overcenturies, the past moreattracted than 35 million visitors over thevisitors past two centuries, with one of its first being Austro-Hungarian Emperor Francis two withbeing one of its first being Austro-Hungarian withcenturies, one of its first Austro-Hungarian Emperor Francis I the year before itI the opened.

Emperor year before it opened.

I the yearFrancis before it opened. this were not enough, Postojna is isalso blessed with anothIfIfIf this this werenot notenough, enough,Postojna Postojnais also blessed with anwere also blessed with another popular sight in its immediate vicinity, thethe magnificent other popular sight in its immediate vicinity, magnifier popular sight in its immediate vicinity, the magnificent Predjama Castle located some 11km11km to the northwest of the cent Predjama located the northwest Predjama CastleCastle located somesome 11km to thetonorthwest of the town centre.

Built in the 13th century and partially situated of thecentre. town centre. in the 13th century and partially town Built in Built the 13th century and partially situated under enormous natural stone arch, it’s not only a fine castle situated under enormous natural stone arch, it’sanot a under enormous natural stone arch, it’s not only fineonly castle in its own right, but also sits atop another tourist cavetourand fine in its own right, alsoanother sits atop another in itscastle own right, but also sitsbut atop tourist cave and is also associated with several fascinating legends.While the ist caveassociated and is alsowith associated with several fascinating legis also several fascinating legends.While the vast majority ofvast visitors come to Postojna justtotoPostojna see one ends.While theof majority come vast majority visitors comeoftovisitors Postojna just to see one or both of its star attractions, with three proper hotels and just to see one both of itswith star three attractions, or both of its starorattractions, proper with hotelsthree and many other guesthouses and private accommodation proper hotelsguesthouses and many other and privateopacmany other and guesthouses private accommodation options located in and around the town, makes athe good base commodation located in andititaround town, it tions located inoptions and around the town, makes a good base for exploring parts offor central Slovenia as well as theSlovenia Karst remakes a goodparts baseof exploring parts of central for exploring central Slovenia as well as the Karst region that extends towards the Adriatic Sea and Italythe - Trieste as well asextends the Karsttowards regionthe thatAdriatic extends Adrigion that Seatowards and Italy - Trieste actually being closer to Postojna than Ljubljana (35km and atic Sea and Italy Trieste actually being closer to Postojna actually being closer to Postojna than Ljubljana (35km and 54kmLjubljana away respectively). than (35km and 54km away respectively).

54km away respectively).

76 Ljubljana In Your Pocket 32 Istria Your Pocket 76 Slovenian Ljubljana In YourInPocket

WHERE Restaurants WHERE TO TO STAY STAY

EPICENTRE Avio Pub EPICENTRE Despite theoffname, Epicentre isn’t quitesmall in the centre of Found the runway at Postojna’s recreational Despitejust the name, Epicentre isn’t quite in the centre of town, although aslarge Postojna isn’tout a metropolis the location airport, there’s a garden back where diners can town, although as Postojna isn’t a metropolis the location is still walking distance to and everything, and what’s more watch the planes take off land - many which are is still walking distance to everything, and of what’s more with a restaurant the premises a bowling alley taking on on panoramic flights.and Despite the name, with a visitors restaurant on the premises and a bowling alley right next door it could be considered the epicentre enthis is a full-fledged pizzeria, steakhouse andof rightplace next door it could be considered the epicentre ofwine entertainment in town.

Most importantly the hotel provides bar, with pizzas coming crispy and hot from a wood-fired tertainment in town. Most importantly the hotel provides comfortable and affordable accommodation.

Kazarje oven, steaks grilled to perfection and a wideQ selection comfortable and affordable accommodation.

Q Kazarje 10, tel. +386 (0)5 700the 22 00, booking@epicenter-on. of wine from From Tuesday to Friday 10,Slovene tel. +386 (0)5 700 22cellar.

00, booking@epicenter-on. net, www.epiceco-hotels.com.

16 rooms, 18 apartthere are multi-course lunch specials starting from only net, www.epiceco-hotels.com. 16 rooms, 18 apartments (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, tripleis €103-118, €6.

Of course the cosy wood-covered interior very pubments (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triple €103-118, apartments €65-75).and PTJLKW like in appearance, there are four types of draught apartments €65-75). PTJLKW beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik 1a, KRAS Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, info@aviopub.si, KRAS This modern hotel is located in the centre of Postojna, just www.aviopub.si.

10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holiThis modern hotel Open is located in the centre of Postojna, just adays few 11:00-23:00. minutes on foot to the city’sTLBS famous cave, and near Closed Mon. a few minutes on foot to the city’s famous cave, and near several good restaurants. The hotel’s café is also popular several good restaurants. The hotel’s café is also popular with locals and tourists for ice cream during the day and Proteus Restaurant with locals and tourists for ice cream during the day and drinks at day night.spent Kras offers everything you would After a Postojna’s famousexpect cave drinks at night. Kras exploring offers everything you would expect from an upmarket hotel - yourself spacious to anda comfortable rooms and other sights, treat first-class at from an upmarket hotel - spacious and comfortablemeal rooms with modern furnishings, a decent breakfast the renovated Proteus.

Set incontinental a old house that is withnewly modern furnishings, a decent continental breakfast and veryforfriendly staff.Q Tržaška 1, tel.combines +386 (0)5 23 typical the region, the restaurant the700 tradiand booking@hotel-kras.si, very friendly staff.Q Tržaška 1, tel. +386 (0)5 700 23 00, www.epiceco-hotels.com. tional and modern with homemade local cuisine served 00, booking@hotel-kras.si, www.epiceco-hotels.com.

24 rooms, 3 interior. suites (singles €71-87, doubles €89-109, in elegant Tables are separated by curtains of 24anrooms, 3 suites (singles €71-87, doubles €89-109, suites €121-141). fine white string, which are meant to resemble the geosuites €121-141). ljubljana.inyourpocket.com slovenian-istria.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

HOTEL HOTEL CASINO CASINO SAFIR SAFIR Located Located in in the the town town of of Sežana, Sežana,aastone’s stone’sthrow throwfrom fromthe the Slovene-Italian Slovene-Italian border, border, as as the the name name suggests suggests the the modmodern Hotel Casino Safir is geared towards casino goers. ern Hotel Casino Safir is geared towards casino goers.

Rooms offer the comforts, whilst ifif you’re Rooms offer all all the modern modern comforts, Stop

by Proteus Restaurant for a gourmet diningwhilst experienceyou’re in the lucky in the casino we suggest upgrading centre of Postojna lucky in the casino we suggest upgrading to to aa superior superior suit suit with with Jacuzzi.

Jacuzzi. Even Even ifif you’re you’re not notlooking lookingto towin winmonmoney, very base for logical formations foundaa inside the cave, the walls ey, the the hotel hotel isis actually actually very good good base and for exploring exploring some of the beautiful villages and natural sights nearby, are decorated with works of acclaimed Slovene painter some of the beautiful villages and natural sights nearby, while Trieste isis less than away.

Q 149, Leo QTitov 1, 10km tel. +386 (0)8 161 0300/+386 whileVilhar.

Trieste lessTrg than 10km away.

QPartizanska Partizanska 149, Sežana, tel.

731 (0)40 483, (0)5 info@postojnska-jama.eu, www.

Sežana,457 tel. +386 +386 (0)5 731 44 44 44, 44, info@safir.si, info@safir.si, www. www. safir.si.

51 rooms (singles €69-75, doubles €97-109, postojnska-jama.eu. safir.si. 51 rooms (singles €69-75, doubles €97-109, suites suites €121-141). €121-141).

Restaurant & Pizzeria Čuk MIRJAM PENZION &&and WELLNESS This humble restaurant pizzeria keeps things simple MIRJAM PENZION WELLNESS Set underneath one of most unique with good food and service.

Located on the Set just just underneath onefriendly ofSlovenia’s Slovenia’s most uniquenatural natural sights, white the southern edge of edge town, Čuklimestone is popularcliffs withatatlocals and visitors alike. sights,ofthe the white limestone cliffs the southern edge of the Nanosare plateau, Mirjam is mini resortdishes with budget acOn offer a range of hearty Slovene and excelthe Nanos plateau, Mirjam is mini resort with budget accommodation in pizzas both standard guest a shared lent wood-fired as well as tastyrooms daily and specials.

The commodation in both standard guest rooms and a shared hostel-style dormitories, as well with as a small campground restaurant great for families selection of kid’s hostel-styleisdormitories, as well as a asmall campground with hookups motorhomes, showerthe facilities meals and a for playground to occupy little and onesplenbewith hookups for motorhomes, shower facilities and plenQRazdrto 19, tel. +386 ty of or space for pitching a tent. fore after eating.

If you are staying in town and don’t ty of space for pitching a tent. QRazdrto 19, tel. +386 (0)41 684heading 988/+386 (0)5 75also 77 200, mirjam.pavlin@siol.

QPot v Pivki 4, feel out, Čuk delivers.

(0)41like 684 988/+386 (0)5 75 77 200, mirjam.pavlin@siol. net, www.mirjam.si.

Singles €35, doubles €44, dorms tel.

(0)5 7201 300, pizzeria.cuk@siol.net, www. net,+386 www.mirjam.si.

Singles €35, doubles €44, dorms €12, campground persons or- 24:00, camper). pizza-cuk.si.

Open€11/two 10:00 - 23:00, Fri (tent 10:00 Sat €12, campground €11/two persons (tent or camper).

T6FLEKDCW 11:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 23:00.

PTLV T6FLEKDCW

Dolenčevi Tourist Farm WHERE Slovenes are aTO rusticEAT down to earth bunch with many WHERE TO EAT

AVIO PUB families still growing their own veggies and producing AVIO PUB Found just offdelicacies the runwayfrom at Postojna’s recreational airhomemade salami tosmall plum brandy. The Found just off the runway at Postojna’s small recreational airport, there’s a large garden out back wherefamily-run diners can watch Dolenčevi port, there’stourist a large farm, gardenanoutecological back where diners canestate watch the planes take off and land - many of which arefor taking visitors 10km from Postojna, is the perfect place visitors to the planes take off and land - many of which are taking visitors on panoramicthis flights.

Despite the name, thisland placeand is ataste fullexperience strong connection to the on panoramic flights. Despite the name, this place is a fullfledged pizzeria, steakhouse wine bar, with pizzas coming the fruits of their labour - and the prepared fledged pizzeria, steakhouse andhomegrown wine bar, withand pizzas coming crispy and hot fromisa excellent, wood-firedwith oven, grilled to perfood Dolenčevi thesteaks house-cured crispyatand hot from a wood-fired oven, steaks grilled toproperfection and a gnocchi wide selection of Slovene wine fromespecially the cellar. sciutto and with local game coming fection and a wide selection of Slovene wine from the cellar.

From Tuesday to Friday there are multi-course lunch specials highly recommended.

The are farmmulti-course is located lunch in a tranquil From Tuesday to Friday there specials starting from €6. Of course the cosy wood-covered forested areaonly with opportunities for hiking inteand starting from only €6. great Of course the cosy wood-covered interior is very pub-like inavailable), appearance, andthe there are fourPostojna types of riding (bike rental and must-see rior is very pub-like in appearance, and there are four types of draught beer on handare for just thosea who aredrive thirsty.

QRakitnik 1a, and Škocjan caves short away.

QSajevče draught beertel. on hand(0)5 for those whoinfo@aviopub.si, are thirsty.

QRakitnik 1a, Prestranek, +386 720756 13 10, www.

8, Hruševje, tel. +386 (0)5 20 22, dolencevi@gmx.

Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, info@aviopub.si, www. aviopub.si.

Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holidays net, www.dolencevi.si.

From €20/person, €2411:00with aviopub.si.

Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holidays 11:0023:00.

Closed Mon. breakfast, €34 withTLBS half-board.

23:00. Closed Mon. TLBS facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket facebook/slovenia.inyourpocket facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

April - 2014/2015 May 2014 77 April - May 2014 33 77

Postojna Postojna

Postojna Accommodation

POSTOJNSKAJAMA JAMA POSTOJNSKA PREDJAMACASTLE CASTLE(PREDJAMSKI (PREDJAMSKIGRAD) GRAD) PREDJAMA Locatedsome some10km 10kmnorth northofofPostojna Postojnaisisone oneofofEurope’ Europe’ssfinfinLocated estcastles. castles.Predjama PredjamaCastle Castle(or (orPredjamski Predjamskigrad, grad,Höhlenburg Höhlenburg est Luegand andCastel CastelLueghi LueghiininSlovene, Slovene,German Germanand andItalian ItalianrespecrespecLueg tively),was wasbuilt builtininaaGothic Gothicstyle styleby bythe thePatriarch PatriarchofofAquileia Aquileia tively), sometimeduring during the the 13th 13th century century and and first first mentioned mentioned inin sometime thehistorical historicalrecord recordininthe theyear year1274.

1274.Perched Perchedunder underaanatural natural the archway123m 123mup upaasheer sheercliff cliffface faceand andsurrounded surroundedby byaathick thick archway stonewall, wall,throughout throughoutthe thecenturies centuriesthe thecastle castlehas hasgained gainedaa stone well-deservedreputation reputationfor forbeing beingvirtually virtuallyimpregnable. impregnable. well-deserved Thisfact factwas wasmost mostpopularly popularlydemonstrated demonstratedduring duringthe the 15th 15th This centuryby bythe themore morethan thanyear-long year-longsiege siegeofofErazem ErazemLueger, Lueger, century whowas wasaaknight knightand andthe theson sonofofthe the Imperial Imperial governor governor of of who Trieste,but buthad hadalso alsoaagained gainedaareputation reputationas asaa rather rather profiprofiTrieste, cient robber robber baron baron throughout throughout the the Habsburg Habsburg empire. empire. ItIt isis cient saidthat thatinin1483, 1483,Erazem Erazemfled fledtotothe thecastle castlefrom fromVienna Viennaafter after said killingaaMarshall Marshallofofthe theImperial ImperialArmy Armywho whohad hadinsulted insultedone one killing hisfriends, friends,which whichbrought broughtabout aboutthe thewrath wrathofofHoly HolyRoman Roman ofofhis EmperorFrederick FrederickII,II,who wholaid laidsiege siege to to the the castle. castle. However, However, Emperor thankstotoaasecret secretcave caveleading leadingfrom fromthe thebowels bowelsofofPredjama Predjama thanks PostojnaCave Caveand andthen thenon ontotothe thenearby nearbyvillage villageofofVipava, Vipava, totoPostojna Erazemwas wasable abletotosecure securean ansteady steadysupply supplyofoffresh freshfood foodand and POSTOJNACAVE CAVE(POSTOJNSKA (POSTOJNSKAJAMA) JAMA) Erazem POSTOJNA water.Unfortunately Unfortunatelyfor forErazem, Erazem,his hisluck luckran ranout outwhen whenhe hewas was Thelargest largestcave caveininthe thekarst karstregion regionand andmost mostvisited visitedshow show water.

The betrayedby byone oneofofhis hisservants servantsand andunceremoniously unceremoniously killed killed caveininallallofofEurope, Europe,words wordson onaapage pagecan canhardly hardlydo dojustice justice betrayed cave bythe theshot shotofofaasingle singlecanon canonball ballwhile whileon onthe thetoilette. toilette.InInthe the themajesty majestyofofPostojna.

Postojna.So Sofar, far,more morethan than20km 20kmofofgalgal- by totothe yearsthat thatfollowed, followed,the thecastle castlewas wasdestroyed destroyedand andrebuilt rebuiltsevsevlerieshave havebeen beenfound, found,ofofwhich whichbarely barelyaafraction fractionare areopen open years leries eraltimes, times,before beforeacquiring acquiringaaRenaissance Renaissancestyle styleinin1570, 1570,which which thepublic. public.AllAllthe thesame, same,aavisit visithere herestill stilltakes takesup upmuch muchofof eral totothe hasremained remainedvirtually virtuallyunchanged unchangedtotothis thisday. day. morningororananafternoon, afternoon,asasyou youmake makeyour yourway waythrough through has aamorning Nowadaysthe thecastle castleisisopen opentotothe thepublic publicand andserves servesas asaamumuthemost mostspectacular spectacularparts partsofofthe thecave, cave,atatfirst firstby byaadinky dinkylitlit- Nowadays the seum.ItIthas hasbeen beencompletely completelyrestored restoredto toits itsoriginal originalgrandeur, grandeur, narrow-gaugetrain, train,and andthen thenon onfoot. foot.There Thereare areno nostairs stairs seum. tletlenarrow-gauge andamong amongother othersites sitesvisitors visitorscan cansee seethe theresidential residentialquarters, quarters, difficultclimbs climbsalong alongthe thepath pathtotoororinside insidethe thecave, cave,soso and orordifficult thechapel chapeland andofofcourse coursethe thedungeon. dungeon.ItItisisalso alsopossible possibleto tosee see visitorswith withlimited limitedmobility mobilityshould shouldnot nothave haveany anydifficulties. difficulties. the visitors thelegendary legendarycave cavebelow belowthe thecastle, castle,although althoughsome some climbclimbFormedover overmillions millionsofofyears yearsby bythe thePivka Pivkariver, river,the thecave cave the Formed ingand andaaminimal minimallevel levelofoffitness fitnessisisstrongly stronglyencouraged encouragedififnot not wasdiscovered discoveredininthe the13th 13thcentury, century,though thoughnever neverproperly properly ing was required.QJamska QJamska30, 30,Postojna, Postojna,tel. tel.+386 +386(0)5 (0)5700 70001 0100, 00, exploreduntil untilthe theearly early1800s.

1800s.They Theyopened openedasasaatourist touristatat- required. explored fax+386 +386(0)5 (0)5700 70001 0130, 30, info@postojnska-jama.eu, info@postojnska-jama.eu,www. www. tractioninin1819, 1819,with withFranz FranzI,I,Emperor EmperorofofAustria, Austria,among amongthe the fax traction postojnska-jama.eu.Open Openevery everyday, day, all all year. year. From From Nov Nov firsttotovisit. visit.Bizarrely, Bizarrely,sosopopular populardid didthe thecaves cavesbecome becomethat that postojnska-jama.eu. first Marchopen openfrom from10:00 10:00to to16:00, 16:00,ininApril Apriland andOct Octfrom from electriclights lightswere werefitted fittedinin1884: 1884:some someyears yearsbefore beforesuch such totoMarch electric 10:00toto17:00, 17:00,ininMay, May,June Juneand andSept Septfrom from9:00 9:00to to18:00, 18:00, technologywas wasfirst firstdeployed deployedininLjubljana Ljubljanaitself. itself.

10:00 technology duringJuly Julyand andAug Augfrom from9:00 9:00to to19:00.

19:00.

Highlightsofofthe thecave caveinclude includethe theenormous enormousstalactites stalactitesand and during Highlights stalagmites,and andthe thequite quitesensational sensationalconcert concerthall, hall,which which stalagmites, can(and (anddoes) does)hold hold10,000 10,000people. people.The Theacoustics acousticsdown down can hereare aresaid saidtotobe besensational. sensational.Note Notethat thatthe thetemperature temperature here thecave caveisisaachilly chilly10°C, 10°C,sosobring bringaajumper. jumper.The Thecaves cavesare are ofofthe alsohome hometotoolms olms(or (orwhite whitesalamanders), salamanders),aablind blindamphibamphibalso ianendemic endemictotothe thesubterranean subterraneanwaters watersofofcaves cavesofofthis thispart part ian Europe.The Theolms olmscan can be beseen seenininsome someofofthe thepools poolsofof ofofEurope. waterasasyou youmake makeyour yourway wayaround aroundthe thecave. cave.Though Thoughblind blind water theyare aresensitive sensitivetotoflash flashphotography photographyand andififyou youdo dospot spot they oneyou youshould shouldrefrain refrainfrom fromtaking takingany anyphotos.QJamska photos.QJamska one 30,Postojna, Postojna,tel. tel.+386 +386(0)5 (0)5700 70001 0100, 00,fax fax+386 +386(0)5 (0)5700 700 30, 30,info@postojnska-jama.eu, info@postojnska-jama.eu,www.postojnska-jama. www.postojnska-jama.

010130, eu.Open Openevery everyday, day,allallyear. year.From FromNov NovtotoMarch Marchtours toursatat eu.

10:00,12:00 12:00and and15:00, 15:00,ininApril Apriland andOct Octatat10:00, 10:00,12:00, 12:00, 10:00, 14:00and and16:00.

16:00.

14:00 78 Slovenian LjubljanaIn InYour YourInPocket Pocket 34 Istria Your Pocket 78 Ljubljana

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com slovenian-istria.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Epicentre Despite the name, Epicentre isn’t quite in the centre of town, although as Postojna isn’t a metropolis the location is still walking distance to everything, and what’s more with a restaurant on the premises and a bowling alley right next door it could be considered the epicentre of entertainment in town. Most importantly the hotel provides comfortable and affordable accommodation, and is especially popular with families, as half of the rooms a fully equipped apartments. There are also conference facilities.QKazarje 10, tel. +386 (0)5 700 22 00, booking@epicenter-on.net, www.epicecohotels.com. 16 rooms, 18 apartments (singles €5963, doubles €75-85, triple €103-118, apartments €6575). P iTJLKW Kras Restaurant Proteus Postojna Restaurant Proteus Postojna This modern hotel is located in the centre of Postojna, just a few minutes on foot to the city’s famous cave, and PROTEUS RESTAURANT near severalRESTAURANT good restaurants. The hotel’s café is also PROTEUS After aa day day spent popular with locals and tourists for ice creamcave during After spent exploring Postojna’s famous and other sights, treat the day and treat drinks at night. offersmeal everything you other sights, yourself to aKras first-class at the newly renovated Proteus. a old househotel that is typical forand the would expect fromSetaninupmarket - spacious renovated Proteus. region, the the restaurant restaurant comfortable rooms with modern a decent region, combines thefurnishings, traditional and modern with with homemade homemade continental breakfastlocal andcuisine very friendly QTržaška ern served instaff. an elegant interior.

Tables are 1, tel.Tables +386 are (0)5 700 23 by 00,curtains booking@hotel-kras.si, terior. separated of fine white string, which are are meant meant to resemble24the geological formations www.epiceco-hotels.com. rooms, 3 suites (singles which found inside inside the cave, cave, and and suites the walls walls are decorated decorated with with €71-87, doubles €89-109, €121-141). found the the are works of of acclaimed acclaimed Slovene Slovene painter painter Leo Leo Vilhar.

Vilhar.Q QTitov Titov Trg Trg works 1, tel. tel. +386 +386 (0)8 (0)8 161 161 0300/+386 0300/+386 (0)40 (0)40 457 457 483, 483, info@ info@ Sport 1, postojnska-jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama.eu.

Located just 200mwww.postojnska-jama.eu. from the centre of Postojna, postojnska-jama.eu, and just a 10-minute walk from the region’s main RESTAURANT &magnificent PIZZERIA ČUK ČUK attraction, the & Postojna Cave, Hotel RESTAURANT PIZZERIA This humble humble restaurant and pizzeria pizzeria keeps keeps things simple Sport is a good accommodation optionthings with simple clean This restaurant and with good good food food and friendly friendly service.

Located on the thebreakedge comfortable rooms and a service. very decent buffet with and Located on edge oftown, town, Čuk isisin. popular with locals and visitors alike.

Onname offer fast thrown The with hotellocals alsoand lives up alike. to itsOn of Čuk popular visitors offer are aoffering a range range of ofbicycle hearty Slovene Slovene dishes and excellent woodby storagedishes and and rental, whilst the are hearty excellent woodfired pizzas pizzas as well wellhappy as tasty tastytodaily daily specials.

The restaurant restaurant is friendly staff are arrange guided cycling or fired as as specials.

The is great for fortours families with a selection selection countryside of kid’s kid’s meals meals and and aa playplayhiking in with the abeautiful surroundgreat families of ground to occupy occupy the the little little ones ones before before or after(0)5 eating. you 1, tel. or +386 720 22 ing Postojna.QKolodvorska ground to after eating.

IfIf you are staying staying in town town and and don’t don’twww.epiceco-hotels.com. feel like like heading heading out, out, Čuk Čuk also also 44, info@sport-hotel.si, are in feel QPot Pot Pivki€59-63, 4, tel. tel. +386 +386 (0)5 7201 7201 300, pizzeria. pizzeria. delivers.

38 rooms (singles doubles €75-85, triples delivers.

Q vv Pivki 4, (0)5 300, cuk@siol.net, www.pizza-cuk.si.

Open 10:00 10:00 -- 23:00, 23:00, €103-118, apartments €65-75). Open cuk@siol.net, www.pizza-cuk.si.

Fri 10:00 10:00 -- 24:00, 24:00, Sat Sat 11:00 11:00 -- 24:00, 24:00, Sun Sun 12:00 12:00 -- 23:00.

23:00.

Fri PTLV Hotel Casino Safir PTLV Located in the town of Sežana, a stone’s throw from the Slovene-Italian border, as the name suggests the modAROUND POSTOJNA POSTOJNA AROUND ern Hotel Casino Safir is geared towards casino goers.

DOLENČEVI TOURIST FARM Rooms offer allTOURIST the modern comforts, whilst if you’re DOLENČEVI FARM Slovenes arecasino rustic down to earth earth bunch bunchtowith with many lucky in the wedown suggest upgrading a superior Slovenes are aa rustic to many families still growing their ownnot veggies and producing suit withstill Jacuzzi.

Eventheir if you’re looking to producing win monfamilies growing own veggies and homemade delicacies from salami tobase plumforbrandy. brandy.

The ey, the hoteldelicacies is actuallyfrom a very goodto exploring homemade salami plum The Dolenčevi tourist farm, an ecological ecological family-run estate some of thetourist beautiful villages and natural sights nearby, Dolenčevi farm, an family-run estate 10km from from Postojna, Postojna, the10km perfect place for visitors visitors to to149, exwhile Trieste is less than away.

QPartizanska 10km isis the perfect place for experiencetel. this+386 strong(0)5 connection to the the land and and taste taste the Sežana, 731 44 44, info@safir.si, www. perience this strong connection to land the fruits of of their their labour(singles the homegrown homegrown and prepared prepared food safir.si.

51 rooms €69-75, doubles €97-109, fruits labour -- the and food at Dolenčevi Dolenčevi excellent, with with the the house-cured house-cured prosciutto prosciutto suites €121-141). at isis excellent, facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket facebook/slovenia.inyourpocket facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

and and gnocchi gnocchi with with local local game game coming coming especially especially highly highly recommended.

The isis located in recommended.

The farm farmCamp located in aa tranquil tranquil forested forested Mirjam Penzion, & Wellness area with great for and riding areajust withunderneath great opportunities opportunities for hiking hikingmost and unique riding (bike (bike Set one of Slovenia’s natrental available), and must-see Postojna and Škocjan rentalsights, available), and the the must-seecliffs Postojna andsouthern Škocjan ural the white limestone at the caves are just aa short drive Q Hruševje, caves of arethe justNanos shortplateau, drive away. away.

QSajevče Sajevče 8,resort Hruševje, edge Mirjam is mini8, with tel.

(0)5 www. tel. +386 +386 (0)5 756 756 20 20 22, 22, dolencevi@gmx.net, www. budget accommodation in dolencevi@gmx.net, both standard guest rooms dolencevi.si. €20/person, €24 €34 dolencevi.si.

From €20/person, €24 with with breakfast, €34 and a shared From hostel-style dormitories, as breakfast, well as a small with with half-board. half-board. campground with hookups for motorhomes, shower facilities and plenty of space for pitching a tent. The MORSKI MORSKI KONJIČEK KONJIČEK family-run place also includes billiards, a football pitch Found near Pivka off main Found near the the town town ofamong Pivka just just off the the main PostojnaPostojnaand a swimming poolof other amenities, while a Pivka-Ilirska road 15 of Pivka-Ilirska Bistrica road (some (some 15 minutes minutes south of the the full wellnessBistrica and medical treatment centresouth rounds out A1 sprawling countryside restaurant isis aa A1 motorway), motorway), this sprawling countryside restaurant the offer. All in this all, it’s a great place for cyclists, campers popular stop for and after popular stop for Slovenes Slovenes andtotourists tourists after ajourneys a day day at at the the and other budget travellers break their on coast.

Given that its translates ‘seahorse’ English, coast.

Given that its name name translates ‘seahorse’ in English, QRazdrto 19, in tel. +386 the way to or from the coast. it’s surprising that fish other seafood specialities it’s not not684 surprising that (0)5 fish and and other seafood specialities (0)41 988/+386 75 77 200, mirjam.pavlin@ are focus here, but those are the the main main focus of of the the menu menu here,€35, but for for those who who mirjam.si, www.mirjam.si.

Singles doubles €44, have already had their fill of such fare, there are of have already their fill of such fare, there are plenty plenty of dorms €12, had campground €11/two persons (tent or other and other dishes dishesiT6FLEKDCwW and some some fine fine pizzas. pizzas. For For families families there’s there’s aa camper). children’s children’s playground playground for for aa before before or or after after dinner dinner romp, romp, and and for for those those who’d who’d like like to to stay stay for for aa drink drink or or five five the the place place is open till the wee hours at the weekends.

Q Mala is open till the wee hours at the weekends.QMala PrisPristava tava 10, 10, Pivka, Pivka, tel. tel. +386 +386 (0)5 (0)5 753 753 20 20 55/+386 55/+386 (0)41 (0)41 523 523 325, 325, darija.hrvatic@telemach.net. darija.hrvatic@telemach.net. Open Open 11:00-24:00, 11:00-24:00, Fri Fri 11:00-04:00, 11:00-04:00, Sat Sat 09:00-04:00, 09:00-04:00, Sun Sun 09:00-24:00.

09:00-24:00. Closed Closed Mon except for holidays.

Mon except for holidays.

Penzion, camp & Gsm: +386 (0)41 684 988 Read more Postojna online at200 ReadMirjam more about about Postojna online wellness Telefon: +386 (0)5 75 77at postojna.inyourpocket.com Razdrto 19 www.mirjam.si postojna.inyourpocket.com

April May 35 April --2014/2015 May 2014 2014 79 79

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