Poznan In Your Pocket by In Your Pocket

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Poznań No. 50, July – October 2018

Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

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Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Contents

Poznań

One of Poznań’s many summertime attractions, KontenerART (p.68).

Arrival & Transport

Directory

What’s On 14

Hotels

Sightseeing

Maps & Indexes

Stary Rynek 22 Old Town Walking Tour 28 Ostrów Tumski 34 Citadel Park 37 Lake Malta 40

Street Index Listings Index Features & Categories Index City Map City Centre Map

85 86 87 88 90

Museums 43

Cafés

Restaurants

Nightlife

Leisure

Shopping

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July – October 2018

Foreword Summer! As we release our anniversary issue, the city has already largely switched to an outdoor mode of eating, drinking, partying, and relaxing. In July and August you can take a free outdoor yoga class (p.14), enjoy films while lounging on the grass (p.14), go on a tour of the Jewish Heritage Trail (p.14), and take advantage of the many outdoor festivals (pp.15-16) taking place during this time of year. To really get a feel for the local culture, follow Poznanians to their favourite summer hang-outs, like the Social Night Market (p.50), the riverside KontenerART (p.68), and the many beer gardens (p.70) in town. For cooling off, it’s off to Lake Malta (p.40) and its many loud attractions, or the more chilled-out Lake Rusałka (p.42). The warm season is also the perfect time to explore on foot or rickety rental bike. Our recommendations include taking a self-guided tour of Poznań’s street art (p.25), breathing in military history (or just enjoying the greenery) at Citadel Park (p.37), and checking out the narrow streets and small restaurants of Śródka (p.36). Whatever you choose to do, we hope you have a wonderful time in the city of billy goats and croissants. As always, for questions or comments don’t hesitate to contact us by e-mail at poland@inyourpocket. com or on facebook at /poznaninyourpocket. Born in Upper Silesia, Janina Krzysiak spent her formative years outside of Philadelphia, PA, before moving back to Poland to indulge her love for cheap air travel, walkable cities, and Eastern European nostalgia. When she’s not writing and editing travel guides, she moonlights as a particle physicist. No, really.

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

years

COVER STORY It’s our 50th issue! In Your Pocket has been covering Poznań since 2002, and to celebrate we’re looking at how the city and our guide have changed since that time. Read all about it up ahead, on p.6. Photo by Boris Stroujko; AdobeStock.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 15,000 copies published 3 times per year Sales Consultant: Agata Urbanowicz (+48) 606 749 642 Events & Marketing: Martyna Karaś (+48) 882 079 723 Writer & Editor: Janina Krzysiak Events Editor: Jason Neale Research: Aleksandra Mańkut Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Poznań In Your Pocket

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SUMMER IN YOUR MIND POSNANIA THE BIGGEST CHOICE OF BRANDS IN POZNAŃ

POZNAŃ, PLESZEWSKA 1 POSNANIA.EU

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re 50 in IYP years! But no midlife crisis here, we plan on living to 1000 and beyond. As we celebrate 16 years on the PoznaĹ&#x201E; market, we want to take a look at how the city and our guide have changed over the years.

50th Issue The first Poznań IYP guide, published in what was then a snazzy new design but would now be mistaken for a section ripped out of a phone book, came out in March 2002, two years before Poland even joined the European Union. Much has changed in the 16 years we’ve been exploring and writing about Poznań. The city back then was a significantly grayer, grittier, more unkempt place, still very much in the midst of post-communist transformation. Foreign tourists were a rare sight, and as such our the guide was aimed mostly at the reluctant business traveler attending the city’s international fairs (p.19), and wondering how the hell he or she will survive in wild, wild Eastern Europe. Reading through our very first issue conjures up some serious nostalgia mixed with a dose of disbelief. This was a time when sending 500g of documents via express mail, finding the payphone, and scoping out the best internet cafe were serious concerns, and when we thought that writing about a very fresh ‘cash-for-corpses’ scandal involving the city’s ambulance service would be a fun bit of trivia for the visitors. On another front, our breakfast recommendations included such tantalizing options as Ali Baba kebab (“Middle Eastern breakfast specials”) and preMcMuffin McD’s (“no breakfast menu but the usual burgers and fries”); sacrilege which would make the 2018 hipster shudder in horror over free-range-egg shakshouka and cold brew coffee. And a 20 pack of Marlboros for 6zł? Now you’d have to go to Transnistria for that type of bargain, and to avoid the huge pictures of aggressive throat cancer and sad guy with erectile dysfunction.

...and the Royal Castle now.

Perhaps surprisingly, some core sights have undergone a transformation as well. Most dramatically, the Royal Castle (p.31), razed during WWII, has been rebuilt almost from scratch in the years 2010-2013, even though the questionable historical accuracy of the final result has earned it the nickname ‘Gargamel’s Castle’. Medieval city fortifications (p.30) were also partially restored, with works ending in 2008. Meanwhile, the list of essential Poznań attractions expanded to include the Stary Browar shopping & art complex (p.31), the renovated Freedom Square (p.32) with its geometric Freedom Fountain, the Porta Posnania ‘heritage interpretation centre’(p.34) which serves as the high-tech gateway to Ostrów Tumski (p.34), and the high-end restaurants of City Park (ul. Ułańska, A-9). There’s also been an explosion of street art (p.25),

Fast forward to 2018, and the tracksuit-sporting skinheads have been replaced by hummus-eating, beanie-wearing, lumberjack-bearded hipsters, the lacklustre milk bars by dubstep-blasting pho joints, upscale ‘new Polish’ restaurants, and vegan food trucks, and the shady vodka dives by craft beer pubs sporting the latest instagramapproved light fixtures. Infrastructure has generally been brought up to 21st century European standards, including the main train station (or at least half of it), shopping opportunities (the malls are now too numerous, if anything), the INEA stadium (p.45), and many of the roads in town. Vintage picture of the Fair Trade grounds - not much has changed here

POZ’S LONG-STANDING ESTABLISHMENTS

The Royal Castle then...

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Amazingly, some bars and restaurants we listed in the first issue are still around, no mean feat in Poznań’s competitive and evolving gastro scene. As such, a well-deserved shout-out goes to Ratuszova (p.60), Figaro (p.56), and Taj India (p.51), while oldtimer bars are represented by Czarna Owca (p.70) and Blue Note Jazz club (p.68). July – October 2018

50th Issue BLASTS FROM THE PAST In some respects, the IYP universe used to be a stranger place than it is now. Here is some bizarre, outdated, and even controversial content from issues past. IDEA-IYP VOICE SERVICE Some time in late 2002 IYP teamed up with the mobile phone service provider IDEA to create a voice service, where for ‘a very reasonable rate’ readers could call for recorded bar and restaurant reviews and address/telephone information (after switching their service provider to IDEA, of course). It is unclear how many people actually used this wondrous invention. VICE ADVICE Early IYP issues were aimed primarily at the bored male business traveler. As such, it was apparently considered prudent to squeeze information about the best places to seek out sex workers (with pricing) between the restaurant listings and flowery descriptions of the wonders of the Old Town. Well, what can we say - the times have changed, the team has changed (as has the target audience), and those interested in such information must now do their own research. THE BEST OF LOCAL NEWS Early IYP used to enjoy following the local news, notifying readers of the most important developments, like the aforementioned cash-forcorpses scandal, followed by a cash-for-stray-cats scheme and ‘Putin’s pub crawl’. Over to our Pulitzerworthy reporting: “In the first visit by a Russian president to Poland in almost nine years, Vladimir Putin visited Warsaw and Poznań in January 2002. ... While the visit was welcomed as a watershed in Polish-Russian relations, many Poles remain unsatisfied. ... While in Poznań he stayed at the Mercure, and In Your Pocket spotted him slinking with his entourage into Dom Wikingów.” (Issue 4, 2003) “[L]ocal paper Gazeta Poznańska reported that the local government was cashing in on Poznań’s stray cat population by selling the creatures across the border. A programme of sterilization during the 90s saw Germany’s cat population plummet, with the number of rats and rodents increasing accordingly. Now officials in Poznań are making a fortune from selling strays to the Germans for as much as 40 euro a head.” (Issue 12, 2005/2006) 8

Poznań In Your Pocket

2007 bird’s-eye view, an endeavor which back then required Photo by Kotasik, CC BY-SA 4.0 getting on an actual plane

with large-scale murals by international artists covering drab walls and local troublemakers like Noriaki and iamsomeart illegally adding pops of interest to the grungier bits of town. So what hasn’t changed? Our 2002 section on religion is still accurate - though attitudes in large cities are changing, Poland by and large remains staunchly catholic, especially compared to its neighbours. Since the fall of communism, religious symbols and sites have become much more visible, sometimes to the point of absurdity: for example, in 2010 a massive 36-metre-tall Jesus statue was unveiled in the tiny town of Świebodzin (100 km west of Poznań), then fitted with wifi transmitters in 2018. Back in Poz, efforts continue to preserve the local religion and heritage. The billy goats atop the town hall (p.23) still butt heads at noon, the local croissants continue to emerge from the city’s ovens and disappear in Poznanian’s mouths (see p.43 for a delicious-looking picture), and Ostrów Tumski looms across the Warta River as solemnly as ever. While we celebrate the old, like Poznań’s magnificent historical architecture and numerous landmarks, we’re also shedding a proud tear over how much positive change there has been in recent years. Yes, it’s a different world, but we’ve never been more excited to be sharing it with you. Enjoy!

A common sight on the streets in 2002: the Polish FIAT, aka ‘Maluch’.

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Arrival & Transport

BY TRAIN MAIN TRAIN STATION Poznań’s main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is opposite the Trade Fair Centre and about 10 minutes by taxi to the main square. The site of a massive 160 million złoty redevelopment project over the last few years, a new transportation centre has arisen alongside the old train station building, creating a strange clash of deep People’s Republic and shiny 21st century - the latter packaged in a breadbox shape, as critics have sneered - with train platforms scattered confusingly between the two. Allow extra time to locate your train, and woe to those departing from the notoriously difficult to find platform 4a - reach it by following platform 4 (in the old section) to the very end, away from the trade fair grounds. If you see 4b, you’ve gone in the wrong direction. But back to the breadbox: modern and state-of-theart, it finally integrates rail, tram, and bus connections in one squeaky clean transit station. As a result, this is now the point of entry for most visitors to the city, including those arriving at the airport and taking the direct bus to the centre, which drops off here. In this day and age, it’s practically impossible for any new train station in Poland to not come prepackaged with a shopping centre, and that is certainly the case here: welcome to Avenida, a shopping haven with a food court and parking for 900 cars, plus additional opportunities for consumerism and refreshment spilling out into the train station hall. Other now-standard amenities include lockers for large luggage (have some coins handy), currency exchange, and bank machines. The city of Poznań operates a tourist information desk, but there’s also the PKP-operated Train Station Office 10 Poznań In Your Pocket

(open 07:00 - 21:00), which can help you plan your trip, get tickets, and even get into town. Normal ticket windows are conveniently open 24hrs, but using the ticket machines (which have English options) is just as easy. If you’re running late, note that it is possible to buy tickets onboard the train from the conductor for a small surcharge. Check the timetables online at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has good English functionality; if you want a seat on a particular train, it is best to book ahead. Taxis await you immediately outside, and a ride to the main square costs about 20-30zł. Alternatively, hop on tram number 5 (to ‘Wrocławska’) or number 8 (to ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’) from the ‘Most Dworcowy’ stop located on the bridge, and you will only have a short 6-7 minute walk to the main square; a 10-minute ticket will suffice. QD‑9, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 24:00 - 01:00.

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Arrival & Transport BY BUS MAIN BUS STATION At the end of 2013, PKS Poznań Bus Station was integrated into the city’s spiffy new transportation centre below the Avenida shopping mall - more info on which you can find under Main Train Station, including what amenities are available, and how to get into town.QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 703 30 33 30, www.pks.poznan.pl. Ticket office open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. TI open 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

BY PLANE

RIDING THE POLISH RAILS The Polish rail network has steadily improved over the last decade with new stations in most of the country’s major cities, new rolling stock, and new high-speed lines now available. The high-speed Pendolino route between Kraków and Gdańsk (via Warsaw), christened in 2014, has cut travel times between the north and south from 12 to only 5.5 hours. Though the costs of have increased, by western standards Polish rail travel is still very affordable, with a first-class ticket from Warsaw to Kraków costing about 150zł (€35). Travel times can vary widely depending on the type of train making the journey. Generally the longer a train takes, the older the rolling stock, the less amenities it will have and the less comfortable you’ll be. The shorter the journey, the nicer the train (and higher the ticket price). The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run so many different classifications of train that it makes the head spin, but here’s a quick run-down. Express InterCity Premium (EIP): the fastest and most comfortable trains which PKP offer (Pendolino), includes electrical sockets, limited wi-fi, adjustable seats and a restaurant carriage serving food and refreshments.

POZNAŃ ŁAWICA AIRPORT Poznań Ławica Airport lies a convenient 7km west of central Poznań. In the Arrivals terminal you’ll find an exchange bureau (kantor), cash machine (bankomat), and food vendors, as well as a tourist info point where you can pick up additional copies of Poznań’s best guidebook (wink). As with all sensible airports in this day and age, there is absolutely no left luggage facility.

Express InterCity (EIC): comfortable first and second class compartments, which include electrical sockets and limited wi-fi service. InterCity (IC) trains are modern, comfortable and relatively cheap and will get you to wherever you need to go. EuroCity/EuroNight (EC/EN) are the perfect choice for rail trips around Europe. EuroCity trains are quick connections to major European cities, and EuroNight are fast international night trains.

Getting to town is a cinch. Car rental is available, and taxis stand right outside the entrance, though you’ll probably overpay to take one. Aim to pay around 30-35zł for the taxi fare to the centre, but keep in mind that it can shoot up to 50zł during the nighttime; as always, agree on a fare with the driver before committing.

Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK), are much cheaper and older trains with mostly second class compartments, requiring no prior reservation - just board and find yourself a seat. You may find yourself on a TLK route if you’re travelling to a small town. Our advice is not to show up early, as these routes are often overcrowded and you may be forced to sit or stand in the aisle.

Alternatively, cut costs by catching a bus, which will get you to the centre in 15-20 minutes. From the stop right outside the entrance, line 59 heads to ‘Rondo Kaponiera’ and the main train station (Poznań Główny) at least three times per hour from 05:05 to 24:00. At other times the airport is connected to the train station by night bus 242, which runs at 00:30, 01:30, 03:00, 04:00 daily; journey time 20 mins to ‘Most Teatralny’. Single 40-minute tickets (4.60zł) can be bought from kiosks, TI or ticket machines; remember to validate your ticket immediately upon boarding.Qul. Bukowska 285 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www. airport-poznan.com.pl.

For more information on train times and prices check the official website of Polish Railways - www.rozklad. pkp.pl, or try the very useful route planning site e-podroznik.pl. On the former you can book a ticket without the hassle of queuing at the station. If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on most trains (except EIP trains!) and buy a ticket direct from the conductor. You’ll pay a 10zł surcharge for this, but credit cards are now accepted.

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July – October 2018

Arrival & Transport TRANSPORT TOOLS/APPS JAKDOJADE Despite the fact that Poznań’s tram and bus network is easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the poznan. jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a wonderful free tool for advance planning, but the paid app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop, and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth the few Euros it costs to download. E-PODRÓŻNIK This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Poznań, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination by bus or train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices and even buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a free mobile app (Android only). MYTAXI The world’s first and most popular taxi app is very much available in PL. MyTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival times, car models, and more, sending the cab of your choice to your location (and allowing you to track its progress) without you having to talk to any dispatchers. Download it for free from their website: mytaxi.com. UBER Uber (uber.com) has indeed arrived in Poland, recently opening their European hub in Kraków. If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Poznań and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates. 12 Poznań In Your Pocket

BY CAR Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of getting behind the wheel here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/ hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know). Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Once you’ve arrived, driving around Poznań’s congested one-way streets can be incredibly trying, however, so we suggest you ditch your vehicle for public transport at the first opportunity, which raises the question of where to put it. Public parking lots are marked on the maps in the back of our print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent, though some hotels have limited parking spaces for guests; check when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket machines on the sidewalk, but note that they only take coins or special chip cards from the parking authority office (so forget that option). Generally having a private car in Poznań is a bad idea unless you have a safe, inexpensive place to keep it.

The ‘Maluch’ - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly unavailable to rent.

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Arrival & Transport CAR RENTAL

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence. Be aware, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; technically an International Driver’s License is required in those cases. Though some rental companies (the dodgier ones) will still rent you a car, be aware that you are assuming full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license. If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car.

Poznań is crisscrossed by over one hundred tram and bus lines, including night routes, and represents the most time and cost efficient way to move about town. Due to frequent track work and route changes, however, your best bet for figuring out how to use public transport in Poz is the super-helpful website poznan.jakdojade.pl (mobile app also available), which can tell you exactly how to get from point A to Point B in English. Transport tickets are bought from automated machines found on most buses and trams, as well as at most transport stops, and thankfully you can pay by card (no need for coins!). The galaxy of ticket options are far too complex to review here; you can take it to heart that you won’t be leaving ‘Zone A’ unless you’re travelling far outside of the city-centre, as even Lake Malta is within Zone A. Tickets are timed, and the cheapest option is a notvery-cheap 3zł for only 10mins - which might only get you 3 or 4 stops. A 40-min ticket for 4.60zł is the safer bet, but if you plan on travelling often, you may want to consider a 24hr or 48hr ticket. Note that kids under five and adults over 70 ride for free.

AVIS Avis, the global leader in car rentals, offers short and long rental cars, vans, and chauffeur-driven vehicles, including everything from small city cars to shared vans, even hybrids. Over 1,000 models are available - all equipped with air conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure both comfort and safety. Flexible terms of cooperation from experts in professionalism, convenience and safety. Also at Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel, G-9).Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 35, www.avis. pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Telephone line manned 24hrs a day. EUROPCARQul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 57, www.europcar.pl. Open 08:30 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 23:30.

TAXIS Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling ahead should get you a better fare, but if you hail one from the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with a company name and phone number displayed, as well as a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business. You should expect to pay 5zł for entering the taxi followed by 2zł per kilometre. Prices rise on Sundays, holidays, late at night and for travel outside of the city limits. Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not expect one. But double standards being what they are, it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you. EURO TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 811 11 11, www.euro-taxi.com.pl. RADIO LUX TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 196 62, www.luxtaxi.com.pl. ZTP POZNAŃQtel. (+48) 61 196 22, www.taxi.com.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

Finally, it is extremely important that you validate your ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/tram exit as soon as you board. Inspectors regularly travel the lines handing out hefty fines, and they aren’t sympathetic to tourists; seriously, riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your entire trip to Poz.

TOURIST CARD Enterprising tourists should consider the Poznań Tourist Card - a splendid piece of plastic that entitles the bearer to free or discounted admission to more than 70 places, plus optional free travel on the city’s public transport system for a small additional fee. The card comes a guide explaining how to use it, which places offer free admission (most museums) and which offer discounts (a selection of restaurants, theatres, and other attractions such as the zoos, Lech Visitors Centre, and various leisure activities). The card can also be used in selected places outside of the city, such as Kórnik Castle, where it is valid for an additional day on top of the number of days it is valid in the city. Cards cost 49zł for 1 day (44zł without transport), 65zł for 2 days (55zł without transport), and 79zł for 3 days (65zł without transport), and can be purchased from every Tourist Information Centre as well as a few hotels. Every venue in our guide which accepts the Poznań Tourist Card has been marked with a TC symbol. July – October 2018

What’s On

Summer Cinema at the Stary Browar park | Photo: Jakub Wittchen

EVENTS BY DATE 30.06, 28.07, 18.08, 22.09 17:00 » JEWISH HERITAGE TRAIL ON THE ROYAL IMPERIAL ROUTE

Starting at the corner Szewska and Dominikańska streets the tour takes you on a journey through the history of Jewish and Christian coexistence prior to World War II. Wielkopolska’s capital was like most of Poland with a large number of followers of both religions living together as equals. The Nazi invasion created a disturbing image of Jewish life in Poland that does not reflect the reality of how it was in the past. You will see the mark Jewish Heritage left on Poznań and what life still exists along the Royal Imperial Route.QM‑6, The Royal Imperial Route, Admission free.

01.07 - 26.08 » YOGA AT THE OPERA FOUNTAIN

Every Sunday during the summer vacations there will be special Yoga classes under the fountain of the Great Theatre Opera. Classes will be led by Yoga instructors from the city of Poznan and classes are open to all skill levels and free of charge. QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, www.namasteyoga.pl. Every Sunday.

04.07 - 29.08 » SUMMER OUTDOOR FILMS AT STARY BROWAR

Summer is the time to do everything outdoors. Watching films is no exception. Popular outdoor film screenings are held all over Poland with Poznań having their very own at 14 Poznań In Your Pocket

Stary Browar. Recent films will be shown every Wednesday at 21:00 and preceded by a lecture from one of the local film experts.QG‑9, Stary Browar, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 601 34 84 83, Admission free. Every Wednesday.

06.07 - 27.07 » CINEMA IN THE CITY

Films in the open air are one of the trendiest things in Poland at the moment. You can’t blame people for wanting to be outside in the warm summer atmosphere. Adding to the list of outdoor screenings one will be taking place each Friday at Avenida. Entrance to the event is free. The outdoor theatre is located on the roof of the mall near Parking E. QE‑9, Avenida Poznań, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 61 627 01 90, Admission free. Every Friday.

06.07 - 12.07 » ANIMATOR - ANIMATED FILM FESTIVAL

Animator is a pretty big deal: it’s one of three Oscarqualifying festivals in Poland. (And to answer your next question, the other two are the Warsaw Film Festival and the Krakow Film Festival). Each year, over 300 films are screened as part of the festival, accompanied by an extensively built-out programme of workshops, lectures, performances, live concerts, exhibitions, and meetings with filmmakers. What sets this festival apart is the special attention placed on the relationship between animation and music in film; evidenced by special screenings accompanied by live music. Of course, there’s no lack of premieres, retrospectives, and thematic screenings, as well iyp.me/poznan

What’s On as a special portion of the programme dedicated to kids. QH‑6, Poznań Estrada, ul. Masztalarska 8, tel. (+48) 61 852 88 33, www.animator-festival.com/en.

07.07 - 08.07 » EUFORIA FESTIVAL

Get in the summer groove by making the 75km trip to Boszkowo, a resort town located by the picturesque Dominickie Lake. Once there, relax on the beach while listening to this year’s Euforia stars: Above & Beyond, Gabiel & Dresden, Neelix, Seven Lions. Nitrous Oxide, Alex, onTune, Blue Silence, and Kros.QBoszkowo-Letnisko, Tickets 129/119(four pack)zł, www.euforiafestivals.pl.

07.07 - 08.07 » WARTA CUP

Diving into the sand to punch a ball with your hands seem appealing? The Warka Cup beach volleyball tournament is an elimination round for lovers of two-person teams spiking the ball. The ultimate goal is to advance as one of the 24 pairs for the Chwiałka Open. Bump, set, spike.QRemes Sport & Spa, ul. Parkowa 48, Opalenica, Admission free.

08.07 12:00-19:00 » ASIAN FESTIVAL

Asia is home to one of the World’s oldest street food cultures. Travel magazines, shows, and films all showcase the uniqueness of the quick eats on offer all over Asia. The Asian Festival in Poznań is the Polish version of this phenomenon. Businesses from around Poland will come to showcase their interpretation of Asian food and what passes for a quick and tasty meal. There is sure to be plenty of ginger and spice, but to cater to the Polish pallet there will also be the less spicy variety of fair.QN-9,Galeria Malta, ul. Maltańska 1.

13.07 - 15.07 » JAROCIN FESTIVAL

Referred to as the Polish Woodstock, the Jarocin Festival has been running since the 70s and was once considered one of the biggest and most important rock music festivals in Europe. It enjoyed a particular level of popularity in the 80s, probably because it provided temporary “relief” from the drab realities of communist Poland, which didn’t really allow for that kind of music on main (read: any) media channels. Ironically (or perhaps not so much) after the fall of communism in Poland, the Jarocin Festival also lost popularity and was even suspended for a few years, following out-of-control riots and mosh pits that were just a tad too aggressive. Since then, it has been revived and is known to deliver a significant amount of alternative music, attract a sizeable crowd and a solid lineup. Tent not included.QOne day tickets 90zł, Pass ticket from 160zł, www.jarocinfestiwal.pl.

14.07 17:00 » MĘSKIE GRANIE

It’s year nine for this “manly” music festival/tour (Male Music is the best we can do with translating the name), and it’ll be making an appearance in seven cities: Poznań, Katowice, Wrocław, Kraków, Warsaw, Gdynia and Żywiec. The notall-male line-up for the 2018 edition includes Kult, Dawid Podsiadło, Nosowska, Krzysztof Zalewski, Natalia Przybysz, Lao Che, Kortez, EABS, L.Stadt and others. QH‑4, Citadel Park, Wzgórze Cytadela, www.meskiegranie.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

July – October 2018

What’s On 17.08 - 02.09 » GUITAR ACADEMY FESTIVAL

For the 11th time, the Guitar Academy will be taking place in Poznań and towns all over Wielkopolska. With a packed three-week calendar of concerts and master courses, there’s a whole lot to look forward to for music fans; highlights will include the inauguration concert by Stefano Barneschi, Mauro Massa, Elżbieta Stonoga and Marco Frezzato. On Sunday, August 26th, bring your guitar to Poznań’s Old Town Square for the traditional Guitar Happening - a chance for musicians both professional and amateur to join together in playing a song of the organisers’ choosing. For more detailed info, check out their website.QTickets 39-99zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (C-3; ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall))., www. akademiagitary.pl.

26.08 12:00-19:00 » FESTIVAL OF ICE CREAM CRAFT

There is a myth you can only eat ice cream during summer in Poland. It’s a weird tale that grandmothers around the country have told the younger generations causing a release of excitement when it gets to be the warmer months. For many things, good comes to those who wait. Ice cream in Poland is proof of this. With local methods and ingredients, the Polish have great pride in their chilly treat. Celebrating this cultural phenomenon the Ice Cream Craft Festival is taking place in the proper moment for young and old.QN-8, Lake Malta, ul. Wiankowa 3.

21.07, 08.09 17:00 » POZNAŃ WOMEN’S TRAIL ON THE ROYAL-IMPERIAL ROUTE

The Women’s trail follows the Royal-Imperial Route exploring the role women played in the history of Poznań. Historical locations will show the impact and heritage of women in the city. In many cases, the role women played in the evolution of Poznań was more significant than the men. It’s a long walk of almost two hours and starts in front of the Cathedral at 17:00.QM‑6, The Royal Imperial Route, Admission free.

28.08 - 29.08 » POZNAŃ FASHION FAIR

Holding claim as the largest Polish fashion event for businesses, the Poznań Fashion Fair will have over 400 exhibitors and brands, top names, and an emphasis on local companies. Throughout the fair, there will also be fashion shows allowing you to see the latest trends for Autumn/ Winter and next Spring. It’s never to early to know what shade of colour you need for the upcoming year.QD-9, Poznań Congress Center, ul. Głogowska 14. Admission free. Registration required., www.targimodypoznan.pl.

01.09 16:00-23:00 » LATE SUMMER FESTIVAL

Ending summer doesn’t always have to be a sad affair. On the final weekend, before the kids return to school and college students make their final push for a place to live for the semester, Poznań has a new offering to entertain. The Late Summer Festival will close out the festival season with two stages, food trucks, and a view of Lake Malta. The lineup includes Tom Odell, Nosowska, Daria Zawiałow, 16 Poznań In Your Pocket

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What’s On Ralph Kaminski, Mucha, Mery Spolsky, Kamil Pivot and Pepe. This is the first edition of the event and might prove to be a proper way to say goodbye to the holidays. QN‑8, Lake Malta, ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 876 60 11, Tickets 149-170zł.

FESTIVAL #NAFALACH

07.09, 08.09 20:00 » 50TH BIRTHDAY SHOW RAY WILSON

Celebrating 50 years of his existence on the planet, Roy Wilson will be performing songs from his career as a solo artist and a frontman for Stiltskin, CUT and Guaranteed Pure. A career spanning decades has touched on progressive rock hits from the 1970s to a stint as the lead man for Genesis in the 90s. Named by Classic Rock Magazine as one of Britain’s best composers and lyricists, Ray Wilson’s acoustic concerts are emotion-filled musical journeys highlighting the artist’s ability to create music in a moving way. The Scottish singer’s minimalist production also add to the desired effect by providing an intimate atmosphere. True to his personal style, he intertwines songs with stories characteristic of Scottish humour.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Tickets 129zł, www.ckzamek.pl.

10.09 19:00 » HOMAGE TO THE BLUES BROTHERS

Festival #NaFalach

Photo: Joanna Wizmur

The new concert series #NaFalach takes place around both Lake Malta and Strzeszynek during the summer. The hashtag translates to ‘On the Waves’ which is a bit confusing since the events take place around a lake, but the concerts have proven to be popular for residents and travellers in its brief history. With different artists performing each weekend the city of Poznań has created a nice treat for those in the area. There is no official website for the concerts. For more info search the hashtag #NaFalach.

The Blues Brothers are a worldwide sensation that lives on even today. Polish were no strangers to the hilarity and musical genius of the duo. With albums that grew out of a comedy sketch on Saturday Night Live, their musical talent was just as recognised as the personas behind it. Here is your chance to see how Polish musicians and actors have interpreted the running joke that celebrates 40 years since it’s original airing. QF‑6, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, www.opera.poznan.pl.

08.07 20:00 » OTSOCHODZI, DWA SŁAWY, ARBAK / ATYPIA

07.10 19:45 » JACK WHITE

20.07 20:00 » MICROMUSIC

Lake Malta

13.07 20:00 » BIG CYC Lake Strzeszynek

15.07 20:00 » THE DUMPLINGS Lake Malta

Jack White has been known to have a great admiration for Poland for quite some time. Showing his great respect for the country he has decided to play not one concert, but multiple ones around the country. This won’t just be a sentimental journey of old songs, but a full-fledged concert with part promoting his latest album “Boarding House Reach”.QD‑9, Poznań Congress Center, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. (+48) 61 869 20 00.

Lake Malta

08.10 - 09.10 » THRILLER LIVE!

Lake Strzeszynek

The glove, the moonwalk, the dance moves, do you have an image in your head yet? One of the most iconic performers of the 80s and 90s left a mark on the world with his music and his showmanship. Dazzling stages around the world and creating a riot everywhere he travelled, Michael Jackson was an icon for generations. Since his passing, his music and flair have been recreated for all who miss the days of him thrilling the stages. Don’t miss this special tour of the Thriller! Live and the opportunity to reminisce about the past.QD‑9, Poznań Congress Center, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. (+48) 61 869 20 00, Tickets 129-300zł, www. thrillerlive.com. iyp.me/polandblog

27.07 20:00 » LUXTORPEDA Lake Strzeszynek

03.08 20:00 » LAO CHE Lake Strzeszynek

10.08 20:00 » FISZ EMADE 17.08 20:00 » XXANAXX

Lake Strzeszynek

18.08 20:00 » BARBARA WROŃSKA Lake Malta

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App July – October 2018

What’s On 14.10 » POZNAŃ MARATHON

If you’re a runner who doesn’t take vacations, and you happen to be in Poznań in October, running the Poznań Marathon could be a fun thing to do (not to mention a good way to see the city from a different perspective). The organisers boast that the maraton has been occurring yearly since “the beginning of the century”, which sounds impressive until you realise it only means the year 2000.QRegistration fee 100200zł., www.marathon.poznan.pl.

17.10 - 21.10 » OFF CINEMA: INTERNATIONAL DOCUMENTARY FILM FESTIVAL

Off Cinema is just what you’d expect: a showcase of hand-picked underground films and documentaries from around the world that you probably won’t see in your local Multikino. The festival aims to promote the development of documentary cinema in three areas: presentation, education and reflection. Film screenings will be accompanied by meetings with filmmakers, exhibitions, concerts, film workshops, academic lectures, and discussions. At stake are three coveted gold, silver, and bronze “Castle” prizes ranging from 5,000zł to 15,000zł for the selected winning titles.QF‑7, ZAMEK Culture Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, Tickets 0-10zł, www.offcinema.pl.

15.11 » LORD OF THE DANCE

This Irish musical and dance show extraordinaire is on tour again. Produced and directed by the multi-talented Michael Flatley, whose lightning-quick footwork set two Guinness World Records for tapping speed (28 and 35 taps per second, if you were wondering), the musical tells a classic tale of good vs. evil based on ancient Irish folklore. QA‑10, Hala Arena, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33, tel. (+48) 61 866 60 31, www.makroconcert.pl.

16.11 - 18.11 » NOSTALGIA FESTIVAL

The Nostalgia Festival is an innovative musical project, with the goal of showing the public the modern music circle, mainly centred on ECM Records. The music they produce is a true art form, coming out of a sense of longing, and reaching back to their roots (Armenia, Estonia, Ukraine, Russia). Combined with a modern sound, the result is a symbolic meeting point of many traditions and tries to understand differences in the modern world while trying to reach different listeners. Past editions have been hosted by Kim Kashkashian, Robyn Schulkovsky, Alan Newcombe, Agata Zubel and Piotr Orzechowski. After the first edition, ECM Records saw Nostalgia as an unprecedented event, proven by Manfred Eicher debuting two songs before the release of his new album at the festival in 2007.Qwww. nostalgiafestival.pl.

What’s going on? facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket 18 Poznań In Your Pocket

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What’s On EXHIBITIONS 16.05 - 30.09 » FORGOTTEN HERITAGE PHOTOS OF A FARMER’S ARCHITECTURE

As rural populations have moved from the countryside to the cities, the architecture used to maintain the farmers’ lifestyle is left behind. The wood buildings left to rot and cave in on themselves. Distilleries which used to make us a drink for happy hour now lay in disrepair. These buildings of agriculture were of high importance to the past occupants and were beautifully decorated and built with a flair in the design. Many of the buildings were a display of wealth for the owners but now are in ruin after cultural and political shifts away from the lifestyle. This photo exhibition by Waldemar Śliwczyński sheds some light on this forgotten heritage of Poland.QH‑7, National Museum, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, Admission 12/1-8zł, Sat free., www.mnp.art.pl.

27.05 - 19.08 » LIFE IS ART - IZABELLA DZIAŁYŃSKA

Born in Warsaw during the 19th-century, Polish noblewoman Izabella Działyńska was able to amass one of the largest art collections in Europe. Living most of her life in Paris, travelling in Europe and the Middle East, she acquired antiquities, medieval works, paintings, graphics, and wooden sculptures. Her collection was as large as collections in European museums in France, Great Britain, and Italy at the time. She also spent part of her life working on restoring the castle in Gołuchów to its former glory while also creating a museum at the location with her collection. The exhibition will take place at the National Museum. QH‑7, National Museum, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, Admission 12/1-8zł, Sat free., www.mnp.art.pl.

01.06 - 31.08 » STARY BROWAR SAVES THE HEART OF THE CARPATHIANS WITH WWF

Animals of the world are increasingly becoming an exhibit in a zoo or a page in a history book. The Carpathians are no exception to the rule. Countless endangered species live in the forests and are on the brink of the losing their existence in the world. Together with WWF Polska, locals, and activists, they will be teaching about and discussing the animals that they are trying to save in the region. Complementing the experts there will also be a photo exhibition during this call to action at Stary Browar.QG‑9, Stary Browar, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 601 34 84 83, Admission free., www.starybrowar5050.com.

23.06 - 31.07 » BOWNIK REVERSE

The internal parts of clothing are not something most people care to think about. However, the exploration of this ignored part of fashion is eye-opening with the photo exhibition by Bownik. With the contrasting colours in a museum setting the reversing of clothing becomes quite striking. The clothing’s origins also allow a closer look at the patterns that make up the colourful clothing from Belarus and Russia.QF‑7, Photo Gallery PF, Zamek Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 53 30, Admission free., www.ckzamek.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. iyp.me/polandblog

POZNAŃ TRADE FAIRS

While many foreign visitors to Central Europe may be unfamiliar with Poznań, businesspeople involved in foreign trade are likely to be more than aware of the city. That’s because Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital with the title justified by the country’s largest fair grounds, where the biggest and best fairs in Poland take place each year. Though Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be traced back to the thirteenth century, the true predecessor of today’s fair was the 1911 East German Industrial Exhibition, which showcased Germany’s achievements in annexed Polish territories. Six years later the Union of Merchant Associations, comprising merchants from Greater Poland and Eastern Pomerania, decided to develop a specialised cyclical expo based on the successful model of the Leipzig Trade Fair. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921, when the first Poznań Fair took place. Since then, the Fair’s fortunes have risen and fallen according to the political and economic changes that periodically moved through Poland and Europe: from playing a key role in re-integrating economic activities in the newly independent second Polish Republic, to the near-demise of the fair complex during WWII air raids (which destroyed the iconic Upper Silesian Tower), and to a new start in the post-war communist state. Though the 1950s were a time of uncertainty and tension, with the fair closed down for a few years due to the Cold War atmosphere, the ‘60s proved to be a period of robust growth, so much so that organisers started running out of exposition space. From 1973 on, the event was broken up into smaller chunks, as more specialised fairs branched off from the main expo. Currently, the Poznań International Fair constitutes over 60% of the Polish exhibition industry, hosting some 10,000 exhibitors a year - approximately a quarter of them foreign - in the complex’s sixteen halls, which add up to 150,000 square meters of space. The total number of annual visitors attending the sixty or so trade fair events - everything from welding to horticulture, logistics to beach fashion - usually reaches half a million. July – October 2018

Poznań Sightseeing Crowded with cobbled streets, soaring steeples and historical monuments, Poznań’s Old Town is a collage of architectural styles and historical monuments, waiting to be explored… 20 Poznań In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing A city of half a million with a history dating back to the 8th century, considered a likely site of the baptism of Polish ruler Mieszko I and thus the birthplace of the Polish state, Poznań is the capital of the Wielkopolska region and a popular business and tourism destination. Its runs as the residence of early Polish kings, a medieval trade hub, Prussian-occupied Posen, a WWII Festung, and finally its return to Poland created a city rife with historical monuments, with much to offer those who enjoy outstanding architecture and diverse cultural attractions. While part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly roaming the streets and alleys, making chance findings from one turn to the next, there are a number of must-see sights whose discovery should not be left to chance. Your natural start point should be the Old Town, and its main square, the glorious Stary Rynek; we make touring both easy with two sections beginning on the next page. Along the way, make sure not to miss the gem of the Old Town, the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus (p.29), which boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists as well as a flamboyant pink facade, and Poznań’s two castles, the Royal Castle (p.31), once the seat of the first Polish kings, and the Imperial Castle (p.33), built as the residence of Prussian ruler Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Once done with the wonders of the Old Town, make your way across the river to the most important place of worship in Poznań, the Poznań Cathedral on Ostrów Tumski (p.34) with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. This is the site connected with Mieszko’s baptism, a story which is now told in all its glory at Porta Posnania (p.34). Poznań also boasts some glorious parks and green spaces. Lake Malta (p.40), just east of the centre is one of the more unique urban leisure areas in the country, and offers loads of family activities for all seasons, including skiing, roller-coasters, and the New Zoo. Meanwhile, just north of the Old Town lies Citadel Park (p.37) with 89 hectares of public greenery stuffed with interesting monuments, and even two museums focussed on the city’s military past. Those with an interest in more recent history will no doubt also appreciate museums dedicated to Poznań’s two famous uprisings, the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising against Prussians (p.45) and the 1956 Uprising against communist authorities (p.43), and the Wielkopolska Martyrs’ Museum (p.45) housed in a former Gestapo penal camp. Also keep an eye out on the multitude of cultural events taking place in and around the city, especially in the summer - we list the highlights in our ‘what’s on’ section starting on p.14. No matter how long your stay, you’ll find plenty in Poznań to keep your interest. Use our guide to explore it all and enjoy one of Poland’s most ancient and exciting cities. iyp.me/polandblog

GUIDED TOURS If an authoritative print guide and expansive web portal simply aren’t enough, and you need someone to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid), there are plenty of tour companies to choose from in Poznań and we list the best of them here. CITY EVENT POZNAŃ More from City Guide Poznań - going beyond walking tours and standard tourist itineraries, City Event Poznań organises multimedia city games, foodie and feast tours, beer excursions, costumed performers, historical reenactments, traditional music concerts, and more. Perfect for groups, school field trips, and team building.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityevent-poznan.pl/en. CITY GUIDE POZNAŃ Excellent local guides offering tours in English, German, Polish, Italian, Russian, French and Spanish to attractions throughout Poznań and beyond (the Piast Route). During Poland’s EU presidency, City Guides was chosen to show delegates of the European Commission around the city - solid credentials indeed. Their sister company, City Event Poznań, organises segway and beer tours as well.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08, www. cityguide-poznan.com.pl. VISITPOZNAŃ VisitPoznan offers a wide variety of traditional and alternative-themed walking tours for groups and individuals. Regular Old Town tours (20zł) in English leave from the main square Tourist Information Centre Fri and Sat at 17:00; other languages and tours by prior arrangement, with prices below.Qtel. (+48) 663 03 62 95, www.visitpoznan.info. For groups 1-6 people 190zł/2hrs, 250zł/3hrs, 340zł/5hrs; prices negotiable for larger groups.

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE QD‑9, ul. Dworcowa 2 (Main Train Station), tel. (+48) 61 633 10 16, www.poznan.travel.pl. Open 08:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Maps and guides in Polish, English, and German. Assistance in those languages plus French, Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 59/60, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 56, www.poznan.travel.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. From October open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Qul. Bukowska 285 (Poznań Ławica Airport, Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 21 40, www.poznan. travel.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. July – October 2018

Stary Rynek

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Monument of the 15th Poznań Lancers Regiment

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Musical Instruments Museum

Neptune Fountain

Artistic Ceramics

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Franciscan Church

Archaeological Museum

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The Holy Blood of Lord Jesus Church

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Stary Rynek top of City Hall, where the governor saw them butting heads and decreed they be added to the clock. The rest, as they say, is history - much like the cook, who was likely tied to the whipping post and given a bloody good thrashing.Qtel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp. art.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. From September 16 open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free.

Historical Museum of Poznań

Packed with monuments, landmarks, museums, and mementos from the city’s rich history, Poznańs marvellous Old Town Square warrants more than a passing glance and smartphone pic. Faithfully reconstructed after the immense damage of WWII, the Square can easily take a few hours to properly explore and enjoy. 1 OLD TOWN HALL First erected in the early 14th century, Poznań’s glorious Town Hall (Ratusz) really flowered in mid-1500s when Italian architect Giovanni Quadro of Lugano added the Renaissance loggia, attic, and classical tower, earning the structure acclaim as ‘the most beautiful building north of the Alps.’ Unfortunately a catalogue of historic disasters - including a 1675 fire, 1725 hurricane and WWII bomb damage - have resulted in the sad reality that today little of the original structure actually remains, though it has been faithfully rebuilt to retain its status as the city’s showpiece.

Today the Old Town Hall houses the Historical Museum of Poznań, whose collection encompasses exhibits from the 10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elaborately decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and figures from mythology. Directly outside the Town Hall is the original whipping post, dating from 1535, with a recently repaired figure of Poz’s executioner standing on top. Crowds gather outside the Town Hall each day to witness two mechanical billy goats emerge from a door above the clock at precisely 12:00 and proceed to butt heads twelve times. Simultaneously, a trumpeter plays the town’s traditional bugle call from a balcony. The bugle call (hejnał) dates back at least to the 15th century, and the goats have been ramming heads 1551. Replaced and restored over the years, the present pair have been bludgeoning each other since 1954. Of course there’s a half-baked legend to go along with them: When the clock was completed in 1511, the governor of the Poznań province was invited for the unveiling. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory feast burnt the venison, so he went out and managed to steal a pair of goats to serve instead. Alas, the goats escaped and traipsed up to the iyp.me/polandblog

2 HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF POZNAŃ The show-stealing Town Hall proves a fitting venue for a museum of this stature. The gothic cellars – originally the municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back to the earliest times of settlement in the 10th century. On the ground floor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibits covering the city’s urban and economic development during that time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall and Court Hall on the first floor hold the most valuable documents and artefacts, and the opulent vaulted ceilings – depicting griffins, lions and eagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone. Exhibits include a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a table clock with the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a globe from 1688 – resist the temptation to give it a spin lest you wish to incur the wrath of hawkish curators. Much of the second floor is dedicated to the 19th century when the city was under Prussian rule, and features everyday objects and portraits of prominent citizens. The final part of the museum depicts the history of 20th century Poznań, and exhibits include the disturbing photograph of a swastika fluttering from the Town Hall.Qtel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free. NY

Pranger

July – October 2018

Stary Rynek MYTHOLOGICAL FOUNTAINS

Apollo Fountain

Guarding the corners of the square are four mythological fountains depicting Neptune, Mars, Apollo, and perhaps in order to combat the under-representation of the fairer sex - Proserpina. The fountains date back to at least the 16th century, though the original adornments were quite different: historical records show a commision for wooden sculptures of a lion and a deer. In the 17th century, city authorities decided to go Roman and splurge on figures of mythological dieties, also in wood (later they were redone in stone). Of the four currently standing, only Proserpina is the original, dating back to 1766; it depicts the goddess of grain and agriculture being abducted by Pluto. The other three fountains were revealed between 2002 and 2005 and placed in their correct historical spots. 3 PRANGER

Just outside the Town Hall, near its southeast corner, you’ll find the proudly protruding Pranger, a 16th-century punishment device funded by fines placed on servant women, wet-nurses, and barmaids who dressed up too frilly or wore jewellery deemed inappropriate for their social standing (the outrage!). Topped with a severe statue of a sword-wielding executioner in a Crusader’s outfit, unlucky criminals would be chained to this octagonal column and whipped, or - if the executioner was feeling fancy or the crime warranted it - have his ears or fingers chopped off.

Arsenał and the Wielkopolska Military Museum

24 Poznań In Your Pocket

Sadly, the contraption no longer elicits deserved fear, as evidenced by repeated vandalism by drunken students and football hooligans - an offence which would surely be more creatively punished in the Pranger’s heyday than in our current times. Luckily, the original isn’t actually in any danger, as it has long been moved to the Historical Museum and replaced with a copy.

John of Nepomuk Monument

Photo by kwolana, CC BY-SA 3.0

4 BUDNICY HOUSES To the left of the Town Hall is perhaps the most recognisable Poznań sight: the picture-book-worthy, technicolor row of townhouses planted right in the middle of the Main Square. Originally called “herring shops” (budy śledziowe), they were home to merchants, and their arcades held fish, candle, torch, and salt stands. They were later renamed to Budnicy Houses (domki budnicze) in honour of a class of merchants known as Budnicy, whose headquarters used to operate at no. 117. Look closely and you’ll see their coat of arms on the facade: three palm trees and a herring. 5 WIELKOPOLSKA MILITARY MUSEUM Situated inside a brutal communist-era pavilion, the Military Museum documents the history of the Polish military from the 11th century onwards. Starting with scythes and halberds the collection includes the armour of winged hussars, sabres, muskets and cannons, as well as portraits of Polish military commanders and famous moments in their history. The unwieldy musket ‘kolowy’ is a particularly impressive effort, and surely completely useless in combat. The 20th century section features grenades, compasses and medical kits, and the upstairs is devoted to the Wielkopolska Uprising, with medals, uniforms and postcards from the era. The collection was decimated during WWII, with the only surviving item being a fragment of Wojciech Kossak’s 1901 painting, The Battle of the

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Stary Rynek Pyramids.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 9, tel. (+48) 61 852 67 39, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. From September 16 open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł. Sat free. NY 6 JOHN OF NEPOMUK MONUMENT As you stroll Stary Rynek, you’ll see numerous monuments, including this noteworthy 1724 figure of John of Nepomuk (Jan Nepomucen), a Bohemian martyr saint who was tortured and drowned in the Vltava River after refusing to divulge the secrets of the Queen of Bohemia’s confessional to her jealous husband Wenceslaus. It was hoped that the saint would be able to protect the city from repeated, disastrous floods, but ultimately the 1960’s re-routing of the Warta River did a far better job of that. 7 ARSENAŁ CITY GALLERY

Founded in the late 1940s under the somewhat commiesounding name Central Exhibition Bureau, Arsenał is one of the oldest players on Poznań’s art gallery scene - and probably the most important, especially given its very central location. Currently organised by the Poznań City Council, the institution hosts exhibitions by Polish and foreign contemporary artists and organises educational meetings.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 61 852 95 02, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. 8 OD:ZYSK

The weirdest spot on the Old Market Square, this former squat is a testament to the city’s large anarchist presence. The late 19th century building on the square’s corner housed a succession of fashion stores, before it was abandoned by its owners sometime in the early 21st century, a signal for the local anarchists to take over. The move took place in late 2012, sparking conflict with

POZNAŃ STREET ART

2017 mural by Maupal, ul. Nowowiejskiego 17 (G-6).

For a long time, the height of Polish street art amounted to scrawling less-print-friendly versions of “All Cops Are Bastards” and “Lech Poznań 4ever” on residential buildings and/or historical monuments in the dead of night, while the ‘artist’s’ accomplices kept watch on the street corner. Older Poles will also remember the occasional party-sanctioned propaganda murals - not the best connotation either. It was only around 20092010 that quality outdoor art started rapidly gaining ground in PL, spawning mural artists and street art festivals throughout the country. The local scene took off in 2011 with the first edition of the Outer Spaces Festival, which saw renowned muralists from Italy, The Netherlands, Spain, and France invited to spice up the drab exteriors of five carefullychosen buildings. The project was a hit, and two more editions were organised, adding a pop of optimism to Wilda and Jeżyce. Not everyone has opted for the legal route, however: a certain Banksy-esque character operating under the pseudonym Noriaki is responsible for an infestation reminiscent of Wrocław’s ‘gnome problem,’ tagging the city walls with variations of Pan Peryskop (Mr. Periscope) AKA The Watcher - a loveable maverick who has integrated himself into the fabric of the city. Keep an eye out, and you’ll realise this watchful rascal is ubiquitous, peering from walls, walking his dog, playing b-ball, and getting passed-out drunk depending on the circumstances. You can even meet him at Peryskop Garden (p.66), a street-art-themed hangout. Fancy a walking tour of Poznań’s best street art? We’ve not only marked street art locations on our maps with a spray can icon , but we’ve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at iyp.me/poznanstreetart so that your smartphone can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just that, and check out some of Poz’s alternative artistic visions.

Od:zysk

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July – October 2018

Stary Rynek restaurant. This doesn’t mean that the anarchists have left the centre completely; you’ll still find them running the Zemsta cafe and bookstore and tagging city walls with leftist messages, while their headquarters remain at ul. Rozbrat, just off Pułaskiego.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 2. 9 GUARDHOUSE This 18th-century police guardhouse was originally haphazardly constructed using wood, and later redone in classicist style by Jan Chrystian Kamsetzer in 17831787. In the inter-war period, it served as a garrison jailhouse. Like much of the Old Town, this structure was all but levelled in the Battle of Poznań in 1945, and the building had to be reconstructed in later years, serving as the Workers’ Movement Museum during communism. It currently houses the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (p.45).QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3.

Municipal Scales Building

Photo by kwolana, CC BY-SA 4.0

city authorities; the squatters used the space to host parties, concerts, and various anarchist events while simultaneously housing some fifty people in shabby conditions, which put the Old Square’s peaceful touristy appeal in some jeopardy. It took until 2015 for the two sides to come to an agreement: the anarchists would move out in exchange for 125 thousand zł (some 35 thousand USD), which would go towards helping the city’s evictees and debtors. Since then, the graffitied and postered building has stood empty, though there are plans to eventually turn it into a posh hotel and

The Guardhouse

Radomil CC BY-SA 3.0

10 MUNICIPAL SCALES BUILDING This cute, freestanding building on the Main Square almost looks like something out of Hansel and Gretel. Originally constructed in 1534, it once housed hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to the market. The little that remains of the original furnishings is now located in the Historical Museum, and the building itself is used by the city’s civil registry to issue marriage certificates.QH/I‑7, Stary Rynek. 11 BAMBER MONUMENT This small statue of a traditionally-dressed Bamber peasant girl carrying jugs used in wine-making stands beside the historical Municipal Scales building. Created by sculptor Joseph Wackerle, who would later become Reich Culture Senator and Hitler’s favourite artist, Bamberka was unveiled in 1915 and originally stood over a well providing drinking water for horses. The subject matter commemorated the Bambers, poor Catholic farmers from Bavaria (today southeast Germany), who came to Poznań around 300 years ago at the invitation of the city authorities to help rebuild villages devastated by war and plague. To find out more about this unique group, you can visit the Poznań Bamber Museum (p.44).

26 Poznań In Your Pocket

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Poznań Old Town Tour

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Poznań Old Town Tour While Poznań is relatively spread out, the bulk of its tourist attractions are located within its historical Old Town and west towards the train tracks, where the Imperial Castle resides. This is the area covered by this walking tour; for places of interest further away from the centre, including Ostrów Tumski and Citadel Park, see relevant sections up ahead. The tour starts at the 0 Old Town Square, which we have described in detail in the previous section, and is approximately 2km long. This means that as little as half an hour is needed if you dash through it, though for the more inquisitive tourist a few hours seems more likely. Meandering through the Old Town streets is encouraged, as are breaks for coffee, beer, or your poison of choice in the city’s many cosy cafes and beer gardens. 1 LESSER BASILICA OF ST. STANISLAUS One of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, which it became in October 2010, was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century. It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, with some fine period ornamentation found in the chapels of the Holy Cross (which features a 16th-century crucifix), and the Virgin Mary (which has a precious copy of the painting of The Mother of God of Incessant Help). The Basilica hosts organ concerts played on an instrument dating from 1876 at 12:15 daily in July and August and on Saturdays after that.QI‑7, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 50, www.fara.archpoznan.pl. Open 06:00 - 19:30, No visiting during mass please. 2 UL. ŻYDOWSKA Originally called ul. Sukiennicza (Cloth Hall Street), this unassuming lane became the de facto centre of Jewish life as early as the 13th century, when the first Jewish settlers in Poznań were given plots of land here. Eventually renamed Judenstrasse and later ul. Żydowska (both meaning simply Jewish Street), it retained this character until the tragedy of the Holocaust. While here, keep an eye out for the former Salomon Beniamin Latz Home for the Elderly and Infirm (ul. Żydowska 15/18). Established in 1908 after the Latz foundation swapped properties with the Jewish Community, the home took the place of three synagogues that used to exist at the address; meanwhile, the foundation’s former hospital at ul. Wroniecka was torn down to make room for the New Synagogue. If you manage to get in (the building is currently residential), traces of the in-house synagogue’s balcony can be seen in the stairwell. Another building of note is the former Jewish Library at ul. Żydowska 32, founded in 1904. Closer to the market square, the unassuming Church of the Most Holy Blood of Jesus (ul. Żydowska 34) is a testament to the vicious anti-Semitism that plagued the city for much of its history. As the sordid story goes, in 1399 several local Jews managed to get ahold of Christian sacramental bread and desecrated it by placing it on a table and stabbing it with a knife, whereupon blood burst from the wafers. Terrified, the Jews attempted to bury the hosts, only to find that the stubborn things would magically unbury themselves and float about in the air.

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Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus

Photo by Zbigniew Ratajczak. Courtesy of City of Poznań

When a young shepherd found them floating above the marshes, a chapel was erected at the site - later rebuilt as the Corpus Christi Church - and the perps were harshly punished. This fabulous yarn was passed down among the city’s Christian populace for centuries, and when a mysterious blood-stained table was found hidden in the building at ul. Żydowska 34 in the 17th century, it was immediately deemed to be the piece of furniture involved in the infamous act of sacrilege and carried to the Corpus Christi Church in a procession of several thousand. The building itself was transformed into the Church of the Most Holy Blood of Jesus; dare to venture inside and you’ll be greeted with an 18th-century fresco portraying the Jewish trio at their nefarious task assisted by none other than the devil. The only good thing we can say here is that an antique plaque referring to the profanation of the hosts, which used to adorn the church’s facade, was taken down in 2005 by the archbishop; better late than never.QI‑6/7, ul. Żydowska.

ul. Żydowska

July – October 2018

Poznań Old Town Tour

New Synagogue

Roweromaniak CC BY-SA 2.5

ALPHAS Widely considered the buildings that ruined ul. Święty Marcin, the ‘Alphas’ are an architectural nightmare from the deep People’s Republic, more due to their current dishevelled state and unfortunate contrast with neighbouring townhouses than due to the actual design. These five modernist high-rises connected by a sprawling two-level gallery with shops and services are actually very similar to the Hötorget buildings in Stockholm and high-rises along Prager Straße in Dresden. Born a bit later than their counterparts in other countries, they were built between 1965 and 1972, designed by Poznań architect Jerzy Liśniewicz. To make room for this new ‘cosmopolitan’ complex, 19th century houses had to be torn down, but the end result fulfilled its goals – it modernized the street and drew communist-era masses, impoverished and longing for more consumerist options, to its relatively wellstocked shop windows. Currently, the stretch of Św. Marcin along the Alphas is undergoing a major overhaul (as you could guess from the completely dug-up road), and is set to become a more welcoming, pedestrian-oriented area with beer gardens and greenery, if the visualisations are to be believed. The Alphas too are set for renovation, though complicating matters is the fact that each has a different owner. We eagerly await results and hope this part of town can finally become presentable, as - for better or worse – the Alphas remain one of Poznań’s most characteristic structures.QF/G‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 40-72.

30 Poznań In Your Pocket

Photo by Radomil, CC BY-SA 3.0

3 NEW SYNAGOGUE Consecrated on September 5, 1907, the New Synagogue on ul. Wroniecka was once a much more lavish structure. Designed by Berlin architects Cremer & Wolfenstein at a cost of one million marks (to put things in perspective, the cost of the Imperial Castle came to five million), the synagogue boasted a floor plan based on the Greek cross, space for 1,200 worshippers (600 men, 600 women), and originally included a copper-plated dome. Following the outbreak of WWII the building was commandeered by the Nazis and redeveloped into a swimming pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht soldiers. After the war the synagogue continued to function as a municipal pool - leading some to jokingly brand it the ‘swimagogue’ - until the poor state of the building forced its closure. Returned to the Jewish community in 2002, a gallery was opened instead, sporadically hosting free exhibits. Though plans have been raised to adapt it into a community centre complete with prayer halls, kosher restaurant, and conference facilities, the small problem of raising what was once estimated at $50 million USD (the number may be higher now) proved too large an obstacle. More recently, there has been talk of converting the building into an upscale hotel with a small commemorative museum, but it looks like those plans have been put on hold as well, and the synagogue currently stands empty, facing an uncertain future.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 11A.

Photo by Mateusz Woźniak, CC BY-SA 3.0

4 CITY FORTIFICATIONS As a typical central European city, Poznań of course was once snugly encircled by city walls and a moat, with four gates guarding the passage into the narrow streets. Along the walls rose a number of defensive towers named after the guilds who were normally responsible for manning them: there was the Wheelwright Tower, Butcher Tower, and Cloth Tower, to name a few. Originally built sometime in the 13th century, the fortifications were unfortunately largely destroyed during the Swedish Deluge in the 17th century and later invasions of the city, and what was left was almost completely taken apart by the Prussians in the 19th and early 20th centuries to make room for new building projects. One of those was

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Poznań Old Town Tour a rather splendid neo-Gothic fire station, which - lovingly refurbished - survives to this day at ul. Masztalarska 3. Passing through its courtyard is a stretch of reconstructed city wall and two rebuilt towers: Baszta Strażacka (Firefighter Tower, not the original name), and Baszta Katarzynek, once part of a convent inhabited by Dominican nuns (then known as Katarzynki). Part The Old Fire Station on ul. of a third tower, Baszta Masztalarska 3 (H-7). Armatnia (Artillery Tower) stands on the Roman Wilhelmi Square. Completed in 2008, the resurrected city fortifications are a lovely place for a (short) stroll north of the main square.QH‑6, Stretching between the Rabbi Akiva Eger Square and the Roman Wilhelmi Square. 5 ROYAL CASTLE Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and Poznań actually has two. Indeed, the 20th century ‘Zamek’ west of the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest, nor most important castle. Wander just one block west of the market square and you’ll find yourself at the foot of Góra Przemysła, crowned by Poznań’s former Royal Castle.

Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction was begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke of the Piast dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capital. Work on the royal residence was continued by his son, and by the time Kazimierz the Great (a prince at the time) moved in in the early 14th century, Poznań’s Royal Castle was the largest non-ecclesiastical building in Poland. Its fortunes took a serious turn for the worse in early 18th century when it was sacked several times in quick succession by the Swedes, the Russians, and then disgruntled nobles. Governor General Kazimierz Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and created a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would serve until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had the misfortune of being in the line of fire with the Nazi stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that. In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s contribution to the hill. Restoration works took place in 2010-2016, but the final result failed to wow the locals, who quickly dubbed it ‘Gargamel’s Castle’ due to its questionable historical accuracy. Today, the building houses the Applied Arts Museum (p.43), and other attractions include the sparsely furnished Prince Przemysł I Hall and the observation deck atop the tower.QH‑7, Góra Przemysła. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From September 16 open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł. Tue free. iyp.me/polandblog

Royal Castle

STARY BROWAR Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the awardwinning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure, and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away from out-of-town developments, and a new trend for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced beer until 1980, then mineral water until 1998, when it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million USD investment transformed it into the shopping and entertainment Mecca it is today. Home to tonnes of art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar also features a 5-Star hotel, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find both name brands and popular chain stores.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 601 34 84 83, www. starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Photo by Jakub Wittchen

July – October 2018

Poznań Old Town Tour 6 FRANCISCAN CHURCH Built in the years 1674-1728, there’s seemingly not much to this church just off the market square. Hidden behind the bland exterior, however, is an absolute explosion of Baroque over-indulgence, with colourful carved wood, stucco, and paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni, designed the high altar and ornamented stalls, which literally jump out at you in their bright flamboyance. It’s a spectacle worth seeing, but visitors also flock to this church to see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous picture of the Miracle-Working Virgin Mary, also known as the Lady of Poznań, for 300 years.QH‑7, ul. Franciszkańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 36 37, www.poznan.franciszkanie.pl. Open 06:30 - 19:00, No visiting during mass please.

Franciscan Church

Photo by Mikołaj Borowicz. Courtesy of City of Poznań

NEON ART

POZNAŃ NIGHTINGALES NEON This playful neon art, portraying a flock of colourful nightingales sitting on a five-line music staff and lighting up in rapid succession, has been installed on the facade of the Philharmonic to honour its “Poznań Nightingales” choir. Founded in the early days of WWII by a nineteen-year-old named Stefan Stuligrosz, the men’s and boys’ choir initially staged underground performances in Poznań churches as an act of resistance against Nazi occupation. After the war they were taken under the wing of the Philharmonic, with Stuligrosz acting as the choir’s artistic director as well as the president of the Poznań Music Academy. The neon was created in 1974 by Antoni Rzyski and symbolises Stuligrosz (the yellow nightingale at the bottom of the staff, whose light doesn’t flicker off ) and his singers. It’s worth to note that the Poznań Nightingales are of no relation to the Polish Nightingales, another Poznań choir which has been implicated in a horrific child abuse scandal - just in case you were wondering.QF-7, ul. Św. Marcin 81. 32 Poznań In Your Pocket

7 PLAC WOLNOŚCI (FREEDOM SQUARE) Though it is difficult to imagine now, Poznań’s large and typically empty ‘Freedom Square’ was once the heart of the city - a favourite spot of the upper classes for strolls and coffee. Originally named Wilhelmsplatz (William’s Square) in honour of King Frederick William III of Prussia, it was demarcated by the city’s new Prussian authorities at the very end of the 18th century, soon after Poland was wiped off the map by the three partitioning forces of Prussia, Russia, and Austria-Hungary. The main reason for a square this large? Big-headed higher-ups needed a representative space capable of containing an entire infantry regiment during military parades. In the years leading up to the Great War the square underwent numerous changes, as Polish and Prussian institutions vied for space and influence, encircling the space with buildings designed according to the latest architectural fashion; those included St. Adalbert’s Publishing House (now St. Adalbert’s Bookstore aka Księgarnia Św. Wojciecha, no. 1), the Haase Department Store (no. 4), the Brandt Department Store (no. 8), the Raczyński Library (no. 19), the Provincial Museum in Posen (now a National Museum building, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9), and Bazar Hotel (Al. Marcinkowskiego 10). A monument to the 1866 Prusso-Austrian Battle of Nachod popped up, as did a figure of war hero General Steinmetz, and, finally, King Wilhelm III; all three were torn down triumphantly when Poznań returned to Polish hands following WWI, and the square was given its current name. It wouldn’t last; after a blissful 20 interwar years, during which the square functioned as the cultural centre of Poznań, the square was dug open with trenches in preparation for WWII, and soon German forces once again marched in, renaming the square - you guessed it - Wilhelmsplatz. After the war (and another name change), Plac Wolności was rebuilt according to the concept of Witold Milewski and Zygmunt Skupniewicz, with trees cut down and a Hygieia statue (which had been placed on the square in 1908 to commemorate the expansion of the city waterworks) moved in front of the Raczyński Library. In 2005 a large underground parking lot was added, and in 2012 Freedom Square’s most recognizable landmark was unveiled - the Freedom Fountain (Fontanna Wolności), a geometric structure with two 10-metre wings (or sails) made out of glass. Nowadays the square is the go-to for holding protests and demonstrations.QG/H‑7, Plac Wolności.

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Poznań Old Town Tour

Plac Wolności 8 OKRĄGLAK Looking for remnants of the People’s Republic? Cast your camera to the western end of ul. Grudnia (A-2), where the imposing Okrąglak (Rotunda) presides over a four-point intersection. This cylindrical marvel is one of Poznań’s defining icons and has been a listed building since 2003. Constructed between 1948 and 1954 this beast is a leading example of Polish modernism, built to a blueprint by Marek Leykam. Originally slated to be ten storeys, this eight floor masterpiece once housed Poznań’s top department store, and it was here that during the lean years of communism locals would queue to buy ‘luxury’ products unavailable elsewhere. After years of abject neglect, in 2011-2012 the Okrąglak was restored and converted into 51,000 square metres of A-class office space.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14.

9 IMPERIAL CASTLE (ZAMEK) More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s fearsome ‘Zamek’in 1905 to serve as the provincial residence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neo-Romanesque style by Franz Schwechten, the west wing held Wilhelm’s living quarters, the east wing his immaculate throne room, with the northern part of the complex consisting of service rooms and beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s Courtyard of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but didn’t stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska Uprising resulted in a Polish Poznań once again. Between the wars the Zamek became the seat of Poznań University, before the Third Reich swooped in and Albert Speer, Hitler’s pet architect, transformed the tower chapel into the Fuehrer’s office, and the second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the district). The castle was badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the principal tower to a third of its original height.

Imperial Castle

Okrąglak

iyp.me/polandblog

Photo by Tadeusz Rudzki, CC BY-SA 3.0

Photo by Radomil, CC BY-SA 3.0

Used by the University in the two years following the war, and then as the seat of local government, the Zamek has operated as a cultural centre since 1962, hosting hundreds of theatre performances, concerts, film screenings and other events in its palatial halls each year. The basement houses the 1956 Uprising Museum, and throughout the large complex visitors will find several restaurants, cafes and bars, including the popular Dubliner Irish Pub. Guided tours of the castle in English are available for 150zł but must be booked in advance by calling +48 61 646 52 88.QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Free admission without tour. July – October 2018

Ostrów Tumski

Enjoying the sun while sketching the Poznań Cathedral. | Photo by Łukasz Gdak

Just north-east of the centre of Poznań sits Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) - the island where Poznań was founded, and “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul II. According to the prolific legend, three Slav brothers known as Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after not seeing each other for many years. To commemorate their reunion the brothers named the place ‘Poznać,’ after the Polish word for ‘to meet.’ From there the island thrived, with a castle erected in the 9th century and Ostrów Tumski becoming a major centre of the Piast state. More than a millennium ago one of Poland’s first rulers, Mieszko I, ushered the country into Catholicism here and soon after the first bishopric was established in 968. The first iteration of the Cathedral of Poznań was built in the second half of the 10th century, and in the island’s thousand-year history it has been home to kings and bishops alike. Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifications are still visible on the Cybina riverside, easily viewable from the Jordan Bridge (I-3). In more recent times the Communists showed their disdain for the Catholic Church’s heavy presence in Poznań by building a road across the island that bisected the Archbishop’s garden (what jerks!). A trip to Ostrów Tumski not only makes a peaceful respite from the tackiness and tourist noise of Stary Rynek, but also serves as an important crash course on early Polish history and Poznań’s role in the country’s birth as a nation. Taking that task on as its very mission, in fact, is the new Porta Posnania Centre, which straddles the river (with its own bridge) between Ostrów Tumski and Śródka, and should be considered the mandatory starting point for all visitors before carrying on to the magnificent Poznań Cathedral itself. 34 Poznań In Your Pocket

1 PORTA POSNANIA INTERACTIVE HERITAGE CENTRE OF CATHEDRAL ISLAND Opened in early 2014, this modern culture complex symbolically connects Poznań’s two oldest districts - Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - via a covered ‘skywalk’ bridge between the main exhibition building and the Cathedral Lock - a restored section of the former Prussian river fortifications. The main building is actually on the Śródka side of the Cybina River, and presents the fascinating history of the area from medieval times to the modern day, with a dollop of Polish-Catholic propaganda, via a rather gimmicky combo of audioguide and interactive multimedia displays. The touring route concludes by leading visitors across the ‘skywalk’ straight into Ostrów Tumski itself, making this the ideal starting point for exploring the district. Audioguides are available in English, German, French, Spanish, Czech, Russian, and Ukrainian,with three specially designed audiotour routes - one for individuals, one for groups, and one for families - that make the experience worthwhile for everyone, especially kids. Topping it off is a souvenir shop and a lovely rooftop terrace (open during the warm season only) that offers unique views of Poznań Cathedral and the surrounding area. QL‑6, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 34, www.bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission for the permanent exhibition 18/12zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 36zł. Group tickets (up to 10 people) 11zł per person. Audio guide 5/3zł. U

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2 POZNAŃ CATHEDRAL The most stunning site on Ostrów Tumski is certainly Peter & Paul Cathedral, more commonly called ‘Poznań Cathedral,’ which ‘Cathedral Island’ takes its name from. Originally erected way, way back in 968, this was the first cathedral in Poland, and has had a storied history. As it was razed, rebuilt, and remodelled numerous times over the centuries, each resulted in the addition of a new architectural style: a 1622 fire led to a Baroque finish, while a 1722 fire ushered in a change to neo-Classicism. During the 1945 battle to liberate Poznań, 65 percent of the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s buried Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the style visitors see today. The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures, surrounded by twelve different chapels, including the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which has several outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones of the Górka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbieński, to be specific) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous crucifix brought to the Cathedral from the former Wrocławska town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed as the mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs and houses the sarcophagi of Kings Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry; the two kings are also depicted in a bronze monument together, above which is a painting by January Suchodolski showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland, destroying pagan idols. The chapel is indeed thoroughly golden, but to fully admire the glitz you must drop a coin into an absurd contraption, whereupon the illumination will come on. The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded by 14 female saints, while the outer wings feature eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning and dates to 1720. Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s five Gothic and early Renaissance bronze tomb slabs, which originated at the famed Nuremburg workshop of

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Herman and Peter Vischer. The slabs were originally on the Cathedral floor to cover the entrances to tombs, but were later mounted on pillars and chapel walls. Stolen during the war, the slabs were returned to Poznań in 1993 and are back on display. Visit the vestry to request entry to the crypt, where you’ll see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque versions of the Cathedral, and a 10th century baptismal font most likely used to baptise the first Polish sovereign and his subjects. Excavations here also unearthed two tombs, most likely of the first Polish monarchs Mieszko I and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses an exhibition of artefacts found during the excavation, and it also leads to the crypt of the Poznań archbishops. Be aware that while the lights in the crypt work for free (no coins!), they are motion-activated, so if you stand and look too long, you’ll suddenly end up in the dark.QK‑6, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Crypt closed on Sundays. No visiting during mass please. Crypt entrance 3.50/2.50zł, rest of the Cathedral free. PA W ŁA

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Mural on Rynek Śródecki (L-6)

Once you’ve explored Ostrów Tumski, the next natural step is to cross the red Jordan Bridge over into the ancient - and irresistibly cute - Śródka neighbourhood. Once its own town, Śródka was named in honour of its weekly Wednesday market (‘Środa’ means ‘Wednesday’ in Polish), and records suggest the small enclave had urban features and its own autonomous government as early as the mid-1200s. The presence of Dominican monks, along with the regular market, gave Śródka prominence in the area, which unfortunately didn’t last long; the monks picked up and moved across the Warta River, and Przemysł II (who subsequently became King of Poland) turned the city over to the control of the Bishopric in the 13th century. Suddenly reduced to the role of supplier to Ostrów Tumski, Śródka would continue to slide in prominence as the nearby city of Poznań grew. Śródka had a revitalization of sorts in the 17th century when orders of Phillippines and Reformists swept in and established churches and residences in the city, yet Śródka was nonetheless absorbed into Poznań in 1800. During Prussian times the city was part of a fortified zone that didn’t improve its fate, nor did the regular occurrence of floods and fires. During World War II much of the city’s centre at Rynek Śródecki (the location around St. Margaret’s Church) was destroyed, and the arrival of the People’s Republic of Poland, which slapped a garish highway across the Archbishop’s gardens and Ostrów Tumski, didn’t improve the area either. But much like Ostrówek, Śródka is slowly experiencing a noticeable revitalization.

3 CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN MARY This small Gothic church was built in 1432-1448 and is modelled on the West Pomeranian building style, with a three-nave hall, star vaulting, and polychromatic decorations. The altar was designed by Wacław Taranczewski in 1954. The adjoining building with the crowstep gables is a Late Gothic Psalteria, dating to 1518, which contained flats for the clergy. Unfortunately the church is closed for renovation until late 2019, so it is presently impossible to get inside.QK‑6, ul. Panny Marii, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl. 4 ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM Adjacent to the Cathedral is the large Lubrański Academy building, once home to Bishop Jan Lubrański’s institute of higher learning and today the Museum of the Archdiocese. The first floor is devoted to temporary exhibits, while the next two floors are filled with all manner of religious art and relics, including the Sword of Saint Peter, numerous statues and paintings of the Madonna, Jesus, and various saints, plus well-preserved robes and heavily-bejewelled rings from Poznan’s long line-up of bishops.QK‑6, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum. poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 17zł. NY 5 GENIUS LOCI ARCHEOLOGICAL PARK Genius Loci gives a different view on Poznań’s medieval genesis by unearthing, reconstructing, and offering insight into the lives of those early individuals who inhabited the island one thousand years ago. Explore multimedia displays and documentary films, and brave the glass walkways while peering down at the city’s original walls and embankments. The audioguide (included in the price) comes in both Polish and English and helps explain how Poznań took shape centuries ago.QK‑6, ul. Ks. I. Posadzego 3, tel. (+48) 61 852 21 67, www.muzarp. poznan.pl/rezerwat. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 10zł. Sun free. Y

There are some surprisingly good eats to be found here - our all-time favourite quirky eatery is Raj (p.50), which has some of the most unique decor around, complete with a mini cinema, while Na Winklu (p.59) offers must-try traditional Polish pierogi with some exciting non-traditional fillings. Genius Loci Archeological Park

36 Poznań In Your Pocket

MOs810/pl.wikipedia.org/CC BY-SA 3.0

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Citadel Park

The Museum of Armaments in Fort Winiary

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Citadel Park Just north of Poznań’s Old Town sits Winiary Hill and 89 hectares of picture-perfect green space known as Citadel Park. Much like any coveted location in Poland, this scenic overlook has a long history that involves multiple name changes, military battles and even some old-fashioned mystery. For visitors, the park offers not only beautiful promenades and leafy city escapes, but also a plethora of monuments, museums and historical tales. The hill itself didn’t become notable until Prussia took over Poland in 1793 and Poznań suddenly found itself in a strategic location on the Prussian-Russian border, less than 300km from Berlin. A fort seemed in order, and design responsibilities were given over to the exasperatinglynamed General Carl Wilhelm Georg von Grolman. Work began in 1828 after moving two villages - Winiary and Bonin - to make room, and continued over the next decade. The result was an impressive polygonal brick fortress with 1.3-1.8 metre-thick walls, observation towers, artillery decks and even a moat, making it the central element of the city’s defences. Despite the efforts that went into the construction, and seemingly opportune wars with Denmark, Austria and France, the fort saw little military action, instead serving as a military prison throughout the 19th century. By the time WWI arrived, the fort was too outdated for modern warfare and played no role until it was captured by insurgents during the Wielkopolska Uprising in 1918, after which it was home to Polish army units throughout the inter-war years. When Nazi Germany occupied Poland in 1939 the fort returned to its role as a POW camp (British, Russian and Polish soldiers ended up here) until it was thrust into the history books as the final Nazi stronghold during the Battle of Poznań in 1945, finally captured by the Soviets on February 23, 1945. After the war, the ravaged and obsolete fort was largely dismantled, contributing its bricks to help rebuild local housing estates and decimated cities like Warsaw. Yet plenty of the fort still remains, and those intrepid enough to wander off the park’s paths will be rewarded with a close-up look at history (this is where a guide comes in handy, as ours pointed out locations of strategic Russian movements, how the fort was breached, and even the charred bricks where a group of the last German soldiers evidently met their end). Under communism, the fort and surrounding area were given a new strategic purpose when Winiary Hill was turned into the chummy ‘Monument Park of Polish-Russian Friendship and Brotherhood’ in 1962, and a Russian cemetery and Red Army memorial soon found a home here. Re-dubbed ‘Citadel Hall’ in 1992 after the regime finally fell, today visitors will find this former military stronghold is home to art installations, monuments, several museums, cemeteries and large outdoor events. There are few better ways to spend an afternoon in Poznań than exploring all there is to see and do in the city’s largest park. 38 Poznań In Your Pocket

WHAT TO SEE 1 POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM Recently re-opened after a long renovation, the museum provides visitors with the chance to learn more about the city’s military history, with a particular focus on the Second World War and the inter-war period. A large number of items from these times are on display, including various newspaper cuttings, weapons, photos and uniforms. But other eras are covered too, with some artefacts - such as old bullets and army storage devices - dating back as far as 1897. Note that the ticket also includes entrance to the Museum of Armaments, also located in Citadel Park.QI‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 663 86 64 14, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 8/5zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Museum of Armaments. NY 2 BRITISH MILITARY CEMETERY

Citadel Park hosts several cemeteries, but the one typically of most interest to tourists is British Military Cemetery (also known as the Commonwealth Cemetery). Why? It’s here that you’ll find the graves of several of the men involved in what is now known as “The Great Escape” (it wasn’t just a movie folks!). In addition to the 174 servicemen from the First World War (all of whom died in various parts of Poland as prisoners of war) there are also 283 World War II servicemen buried in the cemetery. Many of those graves are airmen who died in bombing operations over what is now the Polish city of Szczecin, but there are also several graves of soldiers involved in the mass escape from Stalag Luft 3 in Żagań, a feat depicted in the popular Hollywood film, The Great Escape.

GETTING THERE If the weather is nice there’s no reason not to walk to Citadel Park from the Rynek. The stroll is just under 2km and should take 25-30 minutes. Those who prefer an (arguably) quicker route can grab bus number 51 from ‘Solna’ or either 74 or 90 from ‘Wielka’, getting off at ‘Garbary’ each time (just two stops away). iyp.me/poznan

Citadel Park of war machinery including a T-34 tank, a ‘Katyusha’ rocket launcher, bombers and a MIG-15.QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, Tue free; ticket also valid for the nearby Poznań Army Museum. NY

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Following their daring escape, most of the fugitives were captured by the Nazis, executed and their ashes were buried in the local cemetery at Sagan/Żagań, before being later moved to the military cemetery in Poznań where they can be found today. To locate them enter the cemetery at al. Armii Poznań (H-4); turn right and you’ll see a large white cross and the graves of most of the murdered. The man considered to be the mastermind of the escape is Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, renamed “Bartlett” in the film and portrayed by Richard Attenborough. Keep the name change in mind when looking for Bushell’s grave, and be sure to sign the visitor’s book that can be found inside a small door on the large white cross monument.QH‑4, Park Cytadela. Open from dawn till dusk. 3 MONUMENT TO THE HEROES OF THE POZNAŃ CITADEL One of the most noticeable features of Citadel Park is the Soviet Obelisk located prominently at the top of the grand staircase as you enter the park from Aleja Armii Poznań (H-4). The giant Socialist Realism column is dedicated to the Russian soldiers killed during the 1945 siege of the fort, and it’s most interesting aspect is perhaps the one you can no longer see: the large red star affixed to the top which disappeared in the dead of night after the fall of communism in Poland in 1989. Official complaints by the Russian Embassy to track down the star and its thieves were, unsurprisingly, largely ignored by police, and for years the public was left to speculate what became of the red emblem (a rumour that the star was filled with jewels proved to be one popular urban myth). In recent years, however, a local journalist looking into the mystery was able to swiftly solve it: local firemen had removed the star using their rescue ladders. They fessed up and turned it over without consequence to the city, which has plans to restore it and eventually put it on display at the Historical Museum of Poznań.QH‑4, Park Cytadela. 4 MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS The remains of this Prussian fort (which was used as a war laboratory to produce gunpowder and shells during World War II) prove to be the perfect location for the Museum of Armaments, which features displays of various weaponry and ammunition as well as photos of battles from Poznań’s history. Most interesting for military buffs however is the outdoor exhibition laden with a whole host

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5 HEADLESS FIGURES Unveiled as part of Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations in 2002, this massive troop of towering, headless cast iron figures marching aimlessly across Citadel Park is officially titled “Unrecognised” (“Nierozpoznani”). 112 in all, each measuring 2 metres tall, the odd installation is the work of local arts grad and international art star Magdalena Abakanowicz, who is keeping mum on its meaning. Those with ties to Chicago might recognise a similar installation in Grant Park, while a few more of Abakanowicz’s headless fright patrol can be found wandering lost in the courtyard of the Imperial Castle.QI‑3, Park Cytadela.

Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, fot. D. Krakowiak 6 ROSE GARDEN Certainly one of the nicest and most popular parts of Citadel Park, particularly in fine weather, is the ‘rosarium.’ Consisting of six landscaped terraces planted with different roses, trees, and shrubs descending to a small lake at its centre, this is perhaps Poz’s most romantic corner, as evidenced by all the couples getting very cosy on the numerous benches scattered about. Go for a stroll, stop to smell the roses, and maybe sneak in a snog on the side.QH‑2, Park Cytadela.

Photo by Andrzej Otrębski - Wikipedia - CC BY-SA 3.0

July – October 2018

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Lake Malta Of Poznań’s many lakes it’s Malta - to the east - that is the best known, and its surroundings are well worth further investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of damming the Cybina, this 2.2km long lake is the largest man-made lake in the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Surrounded by parks and woodland, it is today one of the principal recreation areas in the region - in both summer and winter - with an ice-rink, ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), a world-class regatta course, zoo, water park, and dozens of other attractions, including several historical sights. Just east of the centre, but miles from the madness of the market square, if you’re in town to decompress, head to Malta. HISTORY What you see before you wasn’t always a lake, more of a river running by Poznań. In 1178 Prince Mieszko invited representatives of the Knights Hospitaller to the region, and they in turn built St. John of Jerusalem Church - now regarded as the oldest brick place of worship in the country. By 1530 the West European branch of the Knights had resettled on Malta, and so their order found itself renamed The Knights of Malta. The chaps who had come to Poland followed suit, and soon the locals were also referring to the area they decamped to as ‘Malta.’ For the next few hundred years Malta went largely unnoticed, and it was only in the 19th century that the people of Poznań suddenly realised they had a great place to head for a weekend stroll, or wobble around on a newfangled contraption called a bicycle. Adding to Malta’s appeal was its dense greenery and relative isolation from prying eyes, making it popular with frisky couples. After WWI numerous ideas for Malta came to the fore, but all eventually hit a wall with the exception of Adam Ballenstaedt’s ‘Freedom Mound.’ Not ones to faff around and wait for planning permission it was the Nazis who actually changed Malta to the Malta we know today. It was on their initiation that thousands of slave workers were drafted in and began damming the river to create a lake, and while they never saw their plans realised, the communists who took over did. The job was finished in 1952, and the results you can see for yourself.

GETTING TO LAKE MALTA Lake Malta is situated just to the east of the city centre, and Rondo Śródka - at the lake’s northwest corner, is the best place to access it. Below are the public transport options from three main points in the centre. Alternatively, a taxi from the centre to the north shore will cost about 30-35zł. From the main train station (D-9): Take tram number 6 from the ‘Poznań Główny’ stop (walk just past the Avenida shopping centre going east) directly to ‘Baraniaka’. The journey takes about 14 minutes. From the Old Town Square: Take tram number 3, 16, or 17 from either ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’ (H-6) or ‘Małe Garbary’ (I-6) to ‘Rondo Śródka’.QM‑6. Between 1980 and 1989 the lake was completely drained, and the surrounding area given a facilities facelift in time for the World Canoeing Championship in 1990. Today it’s still regarded as a top-quality course, as proved by the decision to hold the 2009 World Rowing Championships here. An enormously popular leisure destination for people throughout the region, new attractions and facilities are constantly being added as the area’s allure continues to grow. ADRENALINE ALPINE COASTER A 500 metre long roller coaster filled with twisting loops (even a 360 degree twist) that hauls screaming visitors around the track at 40km per hour.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00 21:00, Opening hours depend on the weather. 1 ride in a 1-person cart 10zł; 3 rides 20zł. 1 ride in a 2-person cart 15zł; 3 rides 30zł. Y MALTA SKI EQUIPMENT RENTAL Rent bikes, eco-bikes, etc. in summer and skis and snowboards during the winter. Those looking for equipment for Malta Ski should visit the internal ski rental situated near the Malta Ski slopes.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00 21:00, Opening hours depend on the weather. Y MALTA SKI MINI GOLF 18 hole mini golf course overlooking Lake Malta; hours and availability weather-dependent.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00 21:00. Admission 18/15zł. Y

Adrenaline Alpine Coaster

MALTA SKI PONTOON HIRE Our first thought was boat rental, but nope, that would be too conventional for Lake Malta. This what happens to Poz’s 70m artificial ski slope in summer (May to the end of September to be exact) - people go speeding down it in plastic inner tubes.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Opening hours depend on the weather. 1 ride 5zł; 3 rides 10zł. Y

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July – October 2018

Lake Malta LAKE RUSAŁKA If lakes Malta and Rusałka were siblings (and in a sense they are), Rusałka would be the athletic and attentionseeking Malta’s mysteriously beautiful and slightly introverted sister. Indeed, the lake’s very name - derived from Slavic mythology and denoting a water nymph or mermaid - belies the area’s natural wonder and allure. While Lake Malta is favoured by families and sportsmen, the slightly smaller Rusałka (36.7 hectares) has long been favoured by naturalists and fishermen, hikers, cyclists, and photographers, and is characterised by 3,300 metres of largely wooded coastline woven with intimate walking paths, ancient trees (a group of which near the north shore are a designated natural monument), misty streams, and several forgotten war memorials. Like Lake Malta, Rusałka is a man-made reservoir initiated during WWII, but in contrast to her younger brother, Rusałka’s shores are almost entirely devoid of commercial development and provide a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in a natural setting without leaving the city centre. That’s not to say that this old girl doesn’t know how to have fun, however. In summertime a designated section of the northern coast becomes Poznań’s most popular swimming and sun-bathing destination, overseen by lifeguards and offering water sports equipment rental and a children’s playground. The beachside Rusałka restaurant, while quite low-rated (visit at your own risk), serves as a back-up plan for those who forgot to bring their own snacks. If you prefer to wander a bit, nearby points of interest include Park Sołacki - which leads directly into Lake Rusałka’s eastern shore - and the Botanical Garden (p.72) on the southern shore. For those fascinated by Poland’s painful past, Rusałka also conceals several unkempt WWII-era memorials and mausoleums, and the Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (p.45) is within walking distance of the south shore. If your interests include nature, history, or photography, escape the agoraphobic Old Town and explore Rusałka’s natural charms and dark secrets. You’d be wise to pick up a map of the area from tourist information (p.52), wear comfortable shoes, and off you go.

MALTESE BATHS Located on the north shore of Lake Malta this year-round facility offers sport pools (one Olympic-sized and another with a 10-metre diving tower), a water park (a series of 16 pools including a wave pool and children’s play pool), and 13 water slides along with two wild rivers. There is also the World of Saunas (14 saunas, two of which are outdoors, and a vapour bath) and, most recently, a full spa complex (Spa 1306) with underground thermal springs, offering therapeutic and beauty baths including Turkish Hammam and Rasul mud bath, massage, hydromassage, rehabilitation, Pollogen slimming and rejuvenating treatments, and more from the fully trained staff.QP‑8, ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222 61 61, www. termymaltanskie.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 23:00; SPA open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Prices start at 9zł for sports pools and water spark, 15zł for spa. Y THE NEW ZOO The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in 1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over 2,000 beasts representing 140 species, it’s comprised of 60 percent pine and mixed forests with a man-made stream and string of ponds running through the grounds. In this way many of the creatures live in recreations of their natural habitats rather than concrete pens. Highlights include the modern elephant house, and circling the whole shebang is a seasonal minirailway, meaning visitors can jump off at whatever creature cage takes their fancy. As the zoo is located beyond the far east end of Lake Malta (not actually on the lake), during the summer you can get there by taking the Maltanka minirailway to the last stop ‘Zwierzyniec’. If coming from the centre of Poz, take tram 8 from ‘Plac Wielkopolski’ to ‘Krańcowa’. Alternatively, a taxi from the centre costs about 30zł.Qul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. From October open 09:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission Mon-Fri 18/10zł, Sat-Sun 24/12zł. UY TOBOGGON RUN PEPSI Hit speeds of 50km on this summer toboggan run, a daredevil experience that twists and turns the foolish and the brave over the course of a 530 metre track. Open in the warm season, from approximately May depending on weather.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www. maltaski.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. 8zł for one dash, 15zł for three. Kids under 8 free. Y

To get here, take bus 64 from ‘Mickiewicza’ (between houses number 22 and 24 on ul. Mickiewicza, it’s a bit tough to find) to ‘Golęcińska’, then backtrack a bit until you find a forest path to your right just before the railroad tracks. From there it’s a 10 minute walk through the woods to Rusałka Beach. Lake Malta Carousel

42 Poznań In Your Pocket

courtesy of Malta Ski

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Museums

Poznań Croissant Museum, p. 44

MUSEUMS 1956 UPRISING MUSEUM The Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring the first armed resistance the communist regime faced. Hidden down a side entrance, this basement masterpiece features stretchers used to carry the wounded, a tank, a display of arms and rifles, a room of Socialist propaganda posters, a typical Poznań family’s flat from the 1950s and a direct copy of a detention cell. Most poignant of all, though, is the space set aside for 13 year old Roman Strzałkowski, the youngest to die in the troubles. Exhibits include his harmonica and domino set, and newspaper clippings showing Strzałkowski picking up prizes for his piano skills.QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł. Tue free. NUY APPLIED ARTS MUSEUM Housed in the Royal Castle of Poznań, this museum has recently undergone huge changes which shifted the focus from medieval craftwork and princely decorations exclusively to applied arts, rolling out a 2000-piece exhibition of furniture, fabrics, ceramics, glassware, weaponry, and clothing from around the world. For those more interested in the actual history of the place, we recommend skipping the arts and checking out the (sparse) ground-floor exhibition dedicated to the castle and its founder, Duke Przemysł II, as well as climbing the iyp.me/polandblog

seasonally-open tower.QH‑7, Góra Przemysła 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 35, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 11:00 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. From September 16 open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/1-8zł. Tue free. NY ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Housed in the beautiful 16th-century Górka Palace, Poznań’s Archaeology Museum contains a collection of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in North Africa and prehistoric Poland. The first part of the museum takes you through the earliest settlements in the region, with life-sized figures as well as miniature dioramas depicting life from the Stone Age to the Iron Age. The other permanent exhibits include ‘Death and Life in Ancient Egypt,’‘Archeology of Sudan,’ and ‘Rock Art of North Africa.’QI‑7, ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel. (+48) 61 852 82 51, www.muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. From September 1 open 09.00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 20zł. Sat free. Guided tours by prior arrangement 70zł. Free audio guides avaliable in English. UY ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM See Ostrów Tumski, p.36.QK‑6, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 17zł. NY July – October 2018

Museums

Models of Poznań

CHOCOLATE MUSEUM Joining the Croissant Museum is another sweet temptation under an educational guise: the Chocolate Museum where kids of all ages (including those quite grown and greying) can learn about cacao tree plantations, the history of chocolate, and chocolate-making techniques while sampling decadent creations. The guided tours last an estimated 40 minutes and can be followed with a 30-minute workshop during which participants create their own chocolate bar - to take home, of course (if you can refrain from wolfing it down on the spot).QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 12, tel. (+48) 502 45 41 77, www.muzeumczekolady. edu.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 18/15zł, plus 20zł for the optional workshop. U MODELS OF POZNAŃ A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s illustration sketched in 1618. Constructed over a period of six years the model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and you can expect lots of kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up the school seats around it as they wait for the show to begin. As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins and visitors are taken through the area-by-area story of Poznań’s development. Foreigners are given headsets broadcasting heavily accented commentary in the language of their choice, though this is at times drowned out by hilarious background noise that includes medieval soldiers screaming in agony. The museum’s other models include Poznań in the 10th century and a touchable model of the main square aimed at blind visitors.QH‑7, ul. Ludgardy 1, tel. (+48) 61 855 14 35, www.makieta.poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. In July and August open 11:00 - 19:15. Admission 17zł. NY MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS See Citadel Park, p.38.QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan. pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 -16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. Tue free. Guided English-language tour 60zł. Last entrance 30minutes before closing. Tickets bought either here or at the Poznań Army Museum are valid for both museums. NY 44 Poznań In Your Pocket

NATIONAL MUSEUM A large and excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting Impressionist works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch, and Flemish paintings in the connected old building. The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland and plenty of Polish art from the 16th century onwards. In addition, a Monet painting stolen in 2000 was recently recovered and is back on display. Selected paintings have extensive English explanations about the artist and topic.QH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. From September 16 open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -18:00, Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/1-8zł, Sat free. NY POZNAŃ ARMY MUSEUM See Citadel Park, p.39.QI‑4, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 663 86 64 14, www.wmn. poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł. Tue free. Tickets bought either here or at the Poznań Army Museum are valid for both museums. NY POZNAŃ BAMBER MUSEUM Learn about the Bamber people, ethnic Germans from Bamberg who settled in Poznań in the 18th century, inside a mildly interesting museum that includes a 19th century timber house once owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays include old bonnets, looms, paintings, clothing, and timber furniture – everything you’d expect in an ethnographic museum - but very little written information.QJ‑8, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. (+48) 605 62 16 11, www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 10:00 - 14:00. Admission free. U POZNAŃ CROISSANT MUSEUM Considering how much of a Poznań trademark St. Martin’s croissants are, it’s surprising that a museum dedicated to them has only just recently popped up in the city. The Croissant Museum hosts numerous daily and weekly shows, one of which is in English and takes place at 13:45 daily in July and August (Sat-Sun only in September and October); it includes a multimedia presentation, legends, a tour of the historic museum building, a chance to bake croissants using traditional tools, and - of course - a tasting.

Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum

Photo by Craig Broadbent

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Museums QI‑7, Stary Rynek 41/2 (entrance from ul. Klasztorna 23), tel. (+48) 690 07 78 00, www.rogalowemuzeum.pl. Admission 18zł, 16zł/person for families. Y WIELKOPOLSKA MARTYRS MUSEUM One of 18 forts built by the Prussians in the 1870s to protect Poznań’s perimeter, ‘Fort VII’ gained notoriety when it was used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944. At least 18,000 Polish prisoners were processed here, of which 4,500 were murdered, though other estimates have the death toll as high as 20,000. The windswept grassy grounds make for a thought-provoking walk, along which visitors will see the ‘death wall’ - where up to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule, as well as dark underground tunnels used as makeshift gas chambers. Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an execution block, truncheons, whips, and arrest warrants. The personal effects of prisoners have also been preserved, including hand-written letters, playing cards, rosaries, and identity papers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by prisoners can still be discerned, the writing framed with red and white ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task, however. It’s found in the western suburbs, so your best bet is a taxi, with reputable drivers charging around 20-22zł for the journey.QAl. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 848 31 38, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission 6/3zł. Tue free. NY

INEA STADIUM

Wielkopolska Uprising Museum

WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUM Primarily chronicling the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska Uprising (though the exhibition starts at the time of partition) this museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to the Royal Guard. A big renovation ended in December 2017, taking the exhibition from a series of artifacts to a modern multimedia creation on par with the Silesian Museum in Katowice or the Warsaw Uprising Museum in the nation’s capital (though much smaller, of course). Downstairs is a mish-mash of weapons, uniforms, reconstructed bunkers and trenches, and vintage photographs, which look great but fail to convey much meaningful information; the historical info is all upstairs, where you can also take a picture dressed as a Wielkopolska soldier.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł. Tue free. NY iyp.me/polandblog

Originally built in 1980, the city’s stadium was redeveloped rather than completely reconstructed when Poznań was chosen to host the EURO2012 football championship, with the capacity raised from 27,000 to 43,090 - an investment of €160 million. Today the home of popular local side Lech Poznań, INEA Stadium is one of the top stadiums in Europe, featuring covered seating throughout, plus all the service points you would expect at a modern sports complex, including the rather splendid ‘12 Sports Bar & Restaurant.’ Host to large-scale events throughout the year, the stadium has also become a bit of a tourist attraction with 45min-1hr guided tours available in Polish and English, during which you’ll get a chance to experience the changing rooms that Lech Poznań call home, the Presidential boxes, press room, conference room, the Hall of Fame, and, of course, the pitch itself; check their website for exact tour times and prices. Getting there is easy - just catch tram no. 13 from ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’, getting off at ‘INEA Stadion’.Qul. Bułgarska 17 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 886 30 31, www.ineastadion.pl. Tours start at 10:30, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00, 17:00, 19:00 Mon-Fri, and 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:00 on the weekends. Admission 17/10zł. Kids under 5 free. Y July – October 2018

Cafés

Buckwheat crêpes at Petit Paris.

CAFE LA RUINA Completely unique and infused with the owners’ love for travel, food, and coffee, Cafe La Ruina and neighbouring Raj (which serves more substantial meals) are a major draw in this part of town. Both the quirky, warm decor and the friendly atmosphere just can’t be beaten.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 3, tel. (+48) 666 15 25 55. Open 11:00 - 21:00. TUB6W CAFE STRAGAN Obnoxious in principle, but perfectly warm and inviting in actuality, Stragan adheres to some stringent self-imposed rules, including a non-negotiable no-americano policy (they also refuse to make scrambled eggs). Instead, they’re committed to serving top-notch alternatively-brewed coffee, using all the new-fangled (or just currently trendy) methods like dripbrewing, aeropress, Chemex, and siphon; boxes of equipment are displayed on the back wall and available for sale, as are coffee beans. The dedication shows: their coffee was among the best we’ve tasted, so give it a go if you’re a caffeine enthusiast. Light breakfast is served as well.QG‑7, ul. Franciszka Ratajczaka 31, tel. (+48) 789 23 39 65, www.craftcoffee.pl. Open 08:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. TUB6W NEW FUDGE FILOSOPHY It seems that every large city now needs a source of overcomplicated, horror-vacui desserts for instagram purposes, including those overflowing mason jars with Kit Kats stuck into them, which look like they’d make a huge mess - and here’s Poznań’s version. Fudge Filosophy cranks out a daily supply of cakes, cupcakes, and jars piled high with oreos, M&M’s, Kinder Surprise eggs, caramel, sprinkles, bits of chocolate, and entire candy and ice cream bars. Only suitable for those with a massive sweet tooth and healthy 46 Poznań In Your Pocket

pancreas, the desserts can be consumed in FF’s upstairs space, decorated in a less syrupy-sweet white-and-navy aesthetic with a ‘sweet dreams are made of this’ neon fitted on one wall.QH‑8, ul. Długa 9/1, tel. (+48) 608 43 27 29. Open 11:07 - 20:07, Sun 12:00 - 19:07. 6 INNA PIEKARNIA The ‘Different Bakery’ indeed isn’t your run-of-the-mill bread and pączki shop. Though the space certainly could have been furnished in a more effective way - it reads a bit sparse and unfinished as is, though the rainforest-theme back wall is insta-worthy - the buttery croissants, soft-butcrunchy rolls, and scrumptious desserts are all divine, and the coffee is great as well. Unfortunately breakfast options are sorely lacking, with usually just one type of pre-made sandwich on offer (albeit a very very good one). Hopefully this will get remedied soon, as Inna has serious brunch potential.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 39, tel. (+48) 724 01 94 94. Open 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sun. TUB6W PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE A prime location on the ground floor of Poznań’s bustling Stary Browar shopping complex means that this cafe/ boulangerie is never short of customers looking to take a break from their latest spending spree. The interior is smart but informal, and the friendly staff busy themselves serving up everything from fresh coffees and teas to crepes, tarts, pastries, and freshly-baked French bread. For those looking for something a little more substantial there’s an excellent breakfast selection, daily soups, and a range of lunches to line your stomach before sampling one of their wines. Bon appétit! Also at Al. Wielkopolska 40a, D-3.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. UBW iyp.me/poznan

Cafés PIJALNIA CZEKOLADY E.WEDEL STARY RYNEK This cosy chocolate lounge offers a superb collection of confectionery courtesy of Wedel - Poland’s best-loved brand. Find chocolates, cakes, and pralines of every description, plus rich hot chocolate drinks you can practically stand a spoon up in - all of it every bit as sweet and delightful as it sounds. A perfect place to spoil your sweetheart or reward the kids.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 92, tel. (+48) 665 65 10 18, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. TB6W PTASIE RADIO Named after “The Bird Radio,” a famous children’s poem by Julian Tuwim, this rustic cafe really commits to the theme with subtle murals, vintage bird cages, and bird-shaped figurines. The large selection of unique, seasonal hot and cold drinks (lemonades, hot chocolates, smoothies, coffees, and the like) might be the primary draw, but it’s not all Ptasie Radio also offers breakfasts (served until noon), lunches, and delicious chocolate cake.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 74/3, tel. (+48) 61 853 64 51, www.ptasieradio.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. From September open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. T6W RÓŻOVE Walking through the door of this establishment is like stepping into a close friend’s super trendy kitchen, except the friend is an insane baker with a glass case full of glorious fresh cakes. Featuring an odd but inviting open layout, friendly and easygoing staff, and a pink theme that stays strictly within the limits of good taste at all times, Róźove is part cafe, part trinket shop, and all cosy hang-out.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 725 01 00 77, www.rozove.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. U6W TACZAKA 20 A cool upstairs cafe drawing an artsy crowd during daylight hours when they’re in need of coffee and sandwiches. The interior features one wall covered in stray pieces of wood (more intriguing than it sounds, we promise), the menu is a simple array of salads, cake, and snacks like hummus, while the true standout is their minimal beer selection, featuring some local microbrews. A low-key winner.QG‑8, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. (+48) 799 17 44 14. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. B6W ZEMSTA ANARCHIST BOOKSHOP & CLUB Get to know the Anarchists - a group that is perhaps more bookish, organised, and vegan than you imagined. As far from a shady, rambunctious squat as you can get, at first glance this place might look like an ordinary (vegan) lunch bar, cafe, and bookstore well-stocked with high-quality journalism and travel writing, but walk up to the counter and you will find pamphlets attempting to convince casual picker-uppers that in their heart of hearts they’re anarchists too. Strike up a conversation with one of the patrons or pop in for an anarchist event to better appreciate what an unlikely outlet this movement has found here.QF‑7, ul. Fredry 5/3A, tel. (+48) 61 823 25 63, www. zemsta.org. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. N6W iyp.me/polandblog

July – October 2018

Restaurants

Summertime at BulwaR (p.58).

Poznań might have a reputation as an international centre of commerce, but its restaurant scene has only recently started taking off, with a scattering of world-class restaurants and an increasing number of good ethnic options. While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the city, the explosion of the market and its sheer redundancy now makes that pursuit impossible. Our print guide carries a wide selection of what we feel are Poznań’s most noteworthy restaurants, however there are many more listed on our website (poznan.inyourpocket.com) where we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve visited. All our reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours are verified as we send this guide off to the printer, but keep in mind that they’re subject to change. Where the venue is not on our map we have included the district where it is located in brackets. Below is a selection of recommendations depending on what you may be looking for. SPLURGE Any ‘best of’ list in Poznań is invariably going to see a slew of nominations for Blow Up Hall 5050 (p.51), where you’ll find very modern versions of Polish cooking in an impossibly cutting edge neo-industrial setting. For upmarket close to the market square, try BulwaR (p.58) or Ratuszova (p.60). For something out of the centre head to the daringly modern SPOT. (p.55). 48 Poznań In Your Pocket

COUPLES Restauracja MUGA (p.54), and its attached Casa De Vinos wine bar (p.66), is the perfect place to impress your date, while Figaro (p.56) is so over-the-top you half expect to be served by Cupid himself. For something completely different, think of all the naughty things you can do under the table in the pitch black of Dark Restaurant (p.50). POLISH By popular vote, the market square’s Ratuszova (p.60) is the best Polish food you’ll find in Poznań, and served in one of the most elegant interiors you’ve ever eaten in. In contrast, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.59) and Wiejskie Jadło (p.60) do traditional interpretations of Polish food in rustic environs, while the hip Kuchnia Wandy (p.59) and Na Winklu (p.59) prefer a more contemporary twist. QUICK EATS For a speedy but tasty meal that will leave you with more time for sightseeing, try the curries at Thai Fast Wok (p.61), pho at PHOBAR (p.49), ramen at Ramen-Ya (p.57) or our our other suggestions listed on p.62. SPECIAL DIET Our Vegetarian listings are on p.62, but you’ll also find tasty vegan and gluten-free dishes in Projekt Kuchnia (p.53) and SPOT. (p.55). If it’s Polish food you’re after, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem (p.59) will adapt any of their dishes exactly to your dietary needs and desires. iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY 6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

E Live music

U Facilities for the disabled

Modern Polish Cuisine

B Outside seating X Smoking room available T Child-friendly

W Wi-fi connection

AMERICAN NEW PRZYJEMNOŚĆ Classic hipster find. Located in the rather run-down and overlooked Wilda district, przyjemność (pleasure) is probably not something you’d stumble upon by accident, but cool hunters will be glad they made the trek from the old town. Tiny but well designed, przyjemność is reminiscent of hole-in-the-wall Asian establishments mixed with 2018 European hipsterdom: there are hanging plants, underground culture magazines, and a long countertop with bar stools, while the focal point is California-style pizza and white wine spritzers. In the warm season the eatery spills out into the adjacent green space, where picnic tables and umbrellas have been set out. QG‑10, ul. Górna Wilda 82/84, tel. (+48) 789 38 54 55. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Thu 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. B6W

Stary Rynek 37, Poznań /Opposite The Town Hall/ Phone: +48 533 181 171 www.bulwarrestauracja.pl /bulwarrestauracja/

SOMEPLACE ELSE Some baulk at the prices, but there’s no escaping that Someplace Else is the full monty – here’s a place that gets both food and drink completely right, with a largely American menu of burgers and steaks; sometimes that’s just what you need. The diner design is straight out of roadtrip USA, and a great spot for ties-off, after-office chow, and beers. With 9 TVs, this is also one of your best bets for catching that match - be it European or American.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. TUWY

ASIAN PHOBAR More like Berlin in Poznań rather than Hanoi in Poznań, and the local cool kids aren’t complaining. Big bowls of beautiful pho bo, pho bo sot vang, and a vegan alternative are served amid loud dubstep to hip youth seated at communal tables; the exposed-brick interior and party garlands complete the stylish atmosphere. The broth might not be the most flavourful, but a splash of sriracha and fish sauce from strategically placed bottles resolve the issue to an extent. Those pining for other Vietnamese specialties can enjoy nem rolls, mi xao don, banh mi, bun cha, and splendid coffee with condensed milk.QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 501 97 39 74. Open 12:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. €€. BW iyp.me/polandblog

July – October 2018

Restaurants SOCIAL NIGHT MARKET

Photo by Piotr Krupa

This summertime food truck extravaganza is where all the cool kids go to eat and socialize. Co-organised by one of our favourite eateries, Falla (p.62), it takes place nightly (with the exception of Mondays) in and around a rusty old railway depot still filled with abandoned trains. Regular concerts spice up the evenings, while among the vendors you’ll find Falla, Bushimi (p.62), Hatti (p.51), przyjemność (p.49), and other food trucks and food shacks doling out Mexican, Asian, burgers, vegan eats, arepas, ice cream, and more. To get here, take the tram no. 1 or 7 from ‘Półwiejska’ (near Królowej Jadwigi 60, H-9) to ‘Kolejowa’ - you’ll be able to see the market immediately after exiting the tram. Qul. Kolejowa 23, tel. (+48) 511 84 11 55. Open 14:00 22:00, Thu 14:00 - 01:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Closed Mon. B

DARK RESTAURANT “Adventurous” isn’t a word we often like to pair with the word “dining” (after all, that’s how folks on reality TV end up eating spiders), but this place proves to be the exception. As its name implies, Dark Restaurant is devoted to having diners eat their dinner in inky blackness. We’re not talking mood lighting, either; the cavernous room is so dark that the waiters actually wear night vision goggles. The idea behind Dark Restaurant is that by impairing your sense of sight, you enhance your other senses, which makes for a more exciting dining experience. It’s also a great excuse to eat with your hands, because utensils are completely useless without the benefit of eyesight. Each of the menu themes - bizarre food, mood food, and a more standard option - comes with a variety of courses, and you aren’t told what you’re digging into until the meal is over. All these factors add up to a messy and intriguing meal that will have you guessing with every bite. Sure, some of the foods are obvious, but basil ice cream? Oranges with sea salt? Your tongue will undoubtedly be tantalized. Fortunately, your meal ends with a chance to talk with your waiter and the head chef, who delight in making you guess what you ate.QI‑7, ul. Garbary 48, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 57, www.darkrestaurant.pl. Open 16:00 - 21:30, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. €€€€€. 6W 50 Poznań In Your Pocket

RAJ Perhaps the most uniquely decorated venue in town, Raj (Paradise) is a cross between a Southeast Asian street eatery, grandma’s kitchen, hipster hang-out, and what you do to your room after coming home with one too many travel souvenirs - and it’s absolutely delightful. The voyage-inspired menu leans Asian and is printed out on postcards, and those who haven’t managed to get a table can munch away in the backroom cinema, which provides both additional seating and the occasional film screening. Do keep in mind that you might have to grab a server by the ankle to get their attention; the place gets busy. Recommended. QL‑6, ul. Śródka 3, tel. (+48) 666 15 25 55. Open 12:00 - 21:00. €€. TUB6W

FUSION DRUKARNIA SKŁAD WINA & CHLEBA POZNAŃ Despite being within spitting distance of the Rynek, Podgórna isn’t the most fashionable street in Poznań, so we were pleasantly surprised to discover this trendy eatery and cafe. The smell of freshly baked bread wafts through the minimal-chic interior, and the menu comprises not only a range of sandwiches, soups, and appetisers to complement the bakery, but also a full card of rich and colourful fusion creations to complement the upmarket tastes of the wine list. Everything from the kitchen looks like it could be featured in a food art magazine (in fact they sometimes offer workshops on food photography), and overall Drukarnia is evidence of just how far the city’s culinary scene has come on in the past few years. Pop in for a delicious 15-21zł breakfast Mon-Fri between 7:00 and 12:00, weekends 10:00-13:00. New artwork (available for purchase) appears on the walls every month or so.QH‑7, ul. Podgórna 6, tel. (+48) 61 850 14 20, www. winoichleb.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€€. TU B6W FUSION RESTAURANT Top class dining in the Sheraton’s showpiece restaurant. Chic and sexy: this is designer dining the way it’s meant to be with inventive dishes like Thai-style noodles appearing from out of the open kitchen. Floor-to-ceiling windows allow for plenty of light, as well as views of the proletariat scurrying to work. Also of interest is their intimate Wine Tower, which can be booked in advance for up to 4 people to enjoy a menu created with the chef and over 60 types of wine.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.fusion-poznan.pl. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00; Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 13:00 17:00. €€€€€. TUBWY

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Restaurants INDIAN HATTI Our hopes were not high for this establishment - good Indian is still fairly difficult to come by in Poland - but we were pleasantly surprised as the appetiser papadums with a selection of chutneys came out of the kitchen, followed by some very decent tikka masalas and mango lassis. From the ornate and slightly musty decor to the extensive selection of dishes, this is a familiar, Westernised version of the subcontinental eating experience such as you’ll find in the UK or US, and we goras are happy. Looking forward to coming back whenever the pakora cravings kick back in.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 13, tel. (+48) 732 71 00 00, www.hatti. pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. €€. UB6W TAJ INDIA For those staying in the centre, it’s easy to overlook Taj India due to its location up at Lake Malta. But if a walk around Malta is on your to-do list then you could do a lot worse than pop in for a bite to eat. Granted, from the outside it doesn’t look like much, but the inside decor is authentic without being too over the top and the staff are extremely helpful. The menu provides all you’d expect from an Indian restaurant, including chicken vindaloo, lamb boti, a good selection of veggie options, and all the extras - naans, beers, poppadoms, and the like - required to supplement the meal.Qul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 876 62 49, www.tajindia.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TUBW

INTERNATIONAL BLOW UP HALL 5050 Closed in July. Blow Up 5050 is a combination of gastronomy and art that will blow your socks off. The name is a combination of the 1966 Antonioni thriller combined with the owner’s philosophy of making all her enterprises 50% art and 50% business. Complementing the award winning hotel and bar is the restaurant, where prices are at the very top end of the Poznań market, as is the quality. The seasonal cuisine - crafted by Top Chef Poland winner Tomasz Purol - is superb, and the surroundings will leave you feeling you’ve become part of a living art exhibition, making it a truly unique experience in Poland, and perhaps even Europe.QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 90, www.blowuphall5050.com. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€€. TUBW BO.POZNAN The perfect brunch/coffee+newspaper spot, Bo.Poznan is frequented by couples in ironic t-shirts, three-generation families out for a festive breakfast, and caffeine-guzzling laptoppers alike. Turning a below-street-level location into a cosy advantage, Bo. not only is homey enough that you might keep postponing your day’s activities to sit a while longer, they also serve ample portions of early- and midday food for very reasonable prices. Recommended.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 84, tel. (+48) 61 226 78 65. Open 08:3019:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00, Sun 09:30 - 18:30. €€. T6 WY iyp.me/polandblog

July – October 2018

Restaurants BREAKFAST 239 Cosy breakfast spots abound in this city, and 239 is one of the best - a warm industrial-chic hideaway sharing space with an architectural design studio and serving up an all-vegetarian array of millet porridge with fruits, club sandwiches, omelettes, and other seasonally-changing options. The coffee is splendid and a daily special lunch is served as well; the one drawback is the walk needed to get here from the city centre, but use this as your opportunity to explore Poznań’s lesser-known Łazarz district. Heartily recommended.QA‑11, ul. Sczanieckiej 10/2, tel. (+48) 725 29 60 29. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. €. T6W PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE A perfect breakfast option, where the most important meal of the day is served all day. Choose from French classics like croque madame, crepes, croissant sandwiches, tartines and more all made from authentic French ingredients, and delicious fresh bread that is baked on-site.QH‑9, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. €. UBW PROJEKT KUCHNIA Combine this with Petit Paris and apparently Stary Browar is the place in Poznań to start the day. Breakfast options here are plentiful, healthy and eco-minded in terms of the ingredients - eggs come from free range chickens, rice, almond and soy milk are available, as is fresh-squeezed orange juice. Choose from omelettes, scrambled eggs, yoghurt with granola, porridge, and more, including some vegan, gluten-free, and dairy-free options.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 606 99 29 99, www.projektkuchnia.pl. Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00. €. TUBW NEW UNO Absolutely smashing breakfast and specialty coffee (cold brew, chemex, aeropress, the works) in a typical ‘cool 2010s interior’ of exposed brick, light wood, plants, and wall art - pleasant. The menu changes regularly, but expect elevated versions of popular brekkie dishes like deckedout bagles, shakshouka, porrige, frittata, French toast, granola, eggs, and more. You can even grab yourself a bag of coffee beans recommended by the knowledgeable staff. Recommended. QC‑6, ul. Bolesława Prusa 4/2, tel. (+48) 501 03 17 87. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. €. 6W 52 Poznań In Your Pocket

BROVARIA Go formal and pick the right-hand room for a smoothly subdued dining area or else do as the rank-and-file and head either to the brewing hall out back, the bar to the side, or the al fresco terrace. Brovaria has something for everyone, with the premium price reserved for the pink beef sirloin flavoured with truffles. Or consider tucking into the beer feast – essentially a huge platter piled inches high with a mix of seafood and meat. Not for nothing has Brovaria been crowned king of the expatriate scene.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€. TBW NEW DOMU KITCHEN & FRIENDS Put on an apron and dig into a stack of BBQ ribs with your bare hands at this laid-back Polish-American-Italian establishment, then wash it down with their home-made apple alc. Those less willing to get their hands dirty can choose from pasta, pizza, burgers, grilled pork neck, the pulled pork bowl, and more. As a nice touch, recommended wine pairings are listed next to many of the entrees and appetisers. On Friday and Saturday DOMU is a common ‘before party’ venue, so expect loud music after 22:00 as revellers line their stomachs for a long night of boozing. QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48) 61 424 10 42. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TB6W FLAVORIA Tucked away deep inside the IBB Andersia Hotel, Flavoria isn’t the type of place you just stumble across by accident. But those willing to sniff it out will find a smart, modern restaurant with a good mixture of international cuisine ranging from standard breakfast buffets (06:30 - 11:00 daily) to more sophisticated evening dishes like goose breast with honey nuts, red cabbage preserves, raspberry and coffee puree, and beetroot dumplings. With daylight streaming through the large windows by day and dim candlelight during dinner, Flavoria is one of the city’s more formal restaurants, ideal for business lunches and other such upmarket eating occasions. QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 80 81, www.andersiahotel.pl. Open 06:30 - 11:00 for breakfast, 13:00 - 18:00 for lunch, 18:00 - 23:00 for dinner. €€€€. TWY LAVENDA GASTRO & CAFE There are a slew of cosy little cafes dotted around the back streets of Stary Rynek, and competition is indeed tough; Lavenda slots right in there with the very best of them, though. A relaxed atmosphere and a great array of hot drinks, wines, and light food make this the perfect place to share a lunchtime coffee or to meet for an intimate first date. Breakfast is served daily between 08:00 and 12:00 (13:00 on the weekends) and lunchtime goes from 12:30 until 16:00.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 3/4, tel. (+48) 61 852 49 95, www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. €€. TB6W iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants

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July â&#x20AC;&#x201C; October 2018

Restaurants OŚLA ŁAWKA Gourmet food in a confusing (but strangely tasteful) interior punctuated by vintage school supplies and teaching aids, including an anatomical model, abacus, blackboard, and world map. Drinks come in lab beakers, the complimentary bread has to be fished out of a brown paper bag, and the menu changes daily according to the whimsy of the devilishly talented chef. We chanced on the cauliflower with brown butter and sang its praises for a week.QG‑8, ul. Stanisława Taczaka 23, tel. (+48) 535 46 64 77. Open 16:00 - 21:00, Fri 16:00 - 21:30, Sat 13:00 - 21:30, Sun 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. €€€. TB6W

PASSION FOR FOOD Wodna 3/4, 61-781 Poznań Phone +48 61 852 49 95 www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment. Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity). As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change. 54 Poznań In Your Pocket

PROJEKT KUCHNIA Poznań’s culinary scene has come on leaps and bounds over the last couple of years and nowhere is it more evident than here. Located in the heart of the city’s bustling Stary Browar shopping centre, Projekt Kuchnia provides a sleek, sexy environment in which to enjoy some of the finest food around town. Oh, and did we mention that much of it is organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, or dairy-free? Though the menu doesn’t discriminate against carnivores by any stretch, those on a special diet will find their ShangriLa here, and their foodie friends will be glad they tagged along. The top quality extends from the breakfast menu to the wine list, and if you’re browsing around the Old Brewery, you can stop your search for the best place to eat this is it.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 606 99 29 99, www.projektkuchnia.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. €€€. TUBW RESTAURACJA MUGA Located right next door to Casa de Vinos wine bar (just step through the glass door), MUGA has managed to serve up a perfect mixture of fine European food, great service, and excellent wine. The seasonal menu rivals anything else we’ve sampled and the bright, well-lit interior makes for a warm and inviting stay. A perfect spot for courting couples, business deals, and those looking to impress; first-daters should head to the far corner where intimacy is almost encouraged.QH‑8, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 10 35, www.restauracjamuga.pl. Open 17:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €€€€. TW RESTAURACJA PATIO PROVENCE Situated within spitting distance of the main square, this is one of Poznań’s hidden treasures. The main dining room is much like that of any restaurant, but head through the back and you find yourself in a small, beautifully-lit covered courtyard which will have you kneeling down on one knee and proposing to your darling within minutes. With a fashionable mix of baked eggplant, wine-braised beef cheeks, lime halibut with pesto rice, udon noodles, and other fusiony dishes, the menu caters to a variety of tastes, as does the wine list. An absolute diamond, you won’t want to go anywhere after your meal.QI‑7, Pl. Kolegiacki 5 (Hotel Kolegiacki), tel. (+48) 61 855 05 05. Open 12:00 23:00. €€. TUBW iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants SPOT. Fashion, design, and cuisine collide at SPOT, a unique shopping complex set inside the beautifully restored late 19th-century Wilda power station, which is surrounded by a lovely green park. Home to several shops and services, it all serves as mere garnish for the excellent restaurant, which should be your main motivation for visiting. Sporting a smart post-industrial swagger with monochrome colours, exposed bricks, and retro kitsch decor, the atmosphere is inspired, and the menu offers sophisticated European cuisine accented by Asian flavours, including vegetarian and gluten-free dishes. With craft beer, a large selection of wines, and their own sommelier, this is Poznań at its cutting edge best. Qul. Dolna Wilda 87, tel. (+48) 61 835 88 40, www. spot.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. €€€. TUB6W WERANDA LUNCH & WINE Weranda is a restaurant worthy of its setting at the confluence of the old and new portions of the vast Stary Browar shopping centre, with an open two-story skylit space (what the hell are those colourful things hanging from the ceiling?) that is breathtaking even in a building that’s known for its architecture. If upscale mall dining exists then Weranda has perfected it, with a daily lunch menu (27zł from 12:00 till the food runs out) that can include anything from pasta to grilled meat to whatever strikes the chef’s fancy. All of it can be paired with wine, easily making shopping an afterthought.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 69 69, www.werandafamily. com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. €€€. TBW ZIELONA WERANDA Not the easiest place to find despite being only a stone’s throw from the square, which makes its discovery (head into what looks like a shop to find it tucked away at the back) even more of a pleasant surprise. Clearly a labour of love as reflected by beautiful paper decorations set against the mismatch of wooden furnishings, exposed brick, and copious shrubbery. Spread over a number of small rooms, Zielona Weranda is one of our favourite lunch spots with a tasty, well-prepared range of soups, salads, breakfast sandwiches, and snacks. The tea, coffee, and cake options are so encyclopaedic, the harder aspect of spending time here is deciding what to have. QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 32 90, www. werandafamily.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 23:00. €€€. B6WY

ITALIAN BAR A BOO Looking for Poznań’s best pizzeria? Look no further. To be honest, labelling this place a pizzeria is a bit of a cop out as the menu also offers up breakfasts, macaroni dishes, and salads, and the smart, elegant interior rivals some of iyp.me/polandblog

July – October 2018

Restaurants the city’s better restaurants. A good mixture of wines to order by the glass or bottle and plenty of beers and spirits mean that if you’re coming here to line your stomach, the inevitable ul. Taczaka pub crawl may kick off later than you planned.QF‑8, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. (+48) 61 883 43 15, www.baraboo.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Mon 10:00 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€. TU BW

RistoRante FigaRo ul. ogrodowa 17, 61-821 Poznań tel. +48 61 856 01 89 www.restauracjafigaro.eu figaro@restauracjafigaro.eu

ul. ul. Wojskowa Wojskowa 4 4 Poznań (next (next to to City City Park) Park) Poznań open: mon-sat mon-sat 12-23 12-23 open:

▪▪

phone: phone: + + 48 48 519 519 376 376 182 182 email: email: sushi@kyokai.pl sushi@kyokai.pl

sun 12-22 12-22 sun ▪▪ www.kyokai.pl www.kyokai.pl

FIGARO Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take place amongst these starched tablecloths and vases of flowers. Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of most Western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list of pastas, beef tenderloin, veal, and an expansive wine list. What Figaro is famous for though is its fresh fish and seafood, which is said to be among the best in the city. Those wanting to really push the boat out may wish to take advantage of the restaurant’s VIP room, which can be hired out for those extra special occasions. Kitchen closes at 22:00 Mon-Sat, so don’t leave your culinary feast till the last minute.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 856 01 89, www.restauracjafigaro.eu. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00, Closed on Sundays in July and August. €€€. T6W FORNO ITALIA Solid B+ Neapolitan pizza out of a wood-burning oven in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce district. Though purists will undoubtedly go for the margherita and an espresso (or maybe some wine), the possible pizza toppings include salami piccante, artichokes, eggplant, taleggio, prosciutto, and semi-dried tomatoes, and the menu also encompasses focaccia, carpaccio, cheese boards, panna cotta, tiramisu, and other Italian favourites. A couple outdoor tables are available in warm weather, overlooking a Neo-Romanesque church and a dusty street. The restaurant itself is located in a commie-tastic pavilion, but the good news is that you won’t have to look at the facade while inside - and the interior is pleasant enough, with smart dark grey walls, light wood, and industrial elements.QC‑5, ul. Kościelna 12/14, tel. (+48) 885 62 56 25, www.pizza-fornoitalia.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€. TUB6W MOLLINI This charming Italian venture sets itself apart by letting the food speak for itself with simple dishes that will knock you out. We aren’t kidding about the simple – your pasta can be as basic as spaghetti with olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, and parmesan, and in your snobbier moments you might think it’s something you could easily do at home (you can’t). Even the straightforward grilled veggies seem elevated somehow. An Italian restaurant delightfully free of cliché, but full of flavour. Stop by during lunch (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 17:00) for some savings on your bill.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 33, www.mollini.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. TW

56 Poznań In Your Pocket

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Restaurants JAPANESE KURO BY PANAMO The tendency in Poland is for a new cuisine to be launched and then a procession of new restaurants to open all serving pretty much the same ‘fashionable’ cuisine. Here Kuro have taken the cuisine of a ten years ago – sushi – and mixed it with the most recent trends – Thai and Korean. The results to be fair are very, very good and the ul. Wodna location means you won’t have to go far to find it. Find both hot and cold Japanese dishes and some very tasty pan-Asian in a handsome room with remarkably friendly people working there.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 8/9, tel. (+48) 61 887 04 30, www.kurosushi. pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TBW KYOKAI SUSHI BAR The City Park development just to the west of the centre (past the Trade Fairs) is home to some of the city’s best eating establishments and this is true for Kyokai, one of Poznań’s most notable Japanese efforts. Laid out over two floors, Kyokai features sushi sets revolving around a circular bar, while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. Set in a series of converted red brick buildings, the surroundings look chic and sexy, as do the clientele. Definitely one to check out, take tram 13 to the ‘Wojskowa’ stop.QA‑8, ul. Wojskowa 4 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 519 37 61 82, www. kyokai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. TUB6W

Korean-Japanese cuisine Circular sushi bar

y Happ

hour

12:00 - 17:00

All week!

sushi Buffet Eat all you want 60zł per person 17:00 - 22:00 70zł per person

RAMEN-YA This hole-in-the-wall might be tiny, awkwardly furnished, and somewhat rudimentary, but boy, is the ramen good. After the success of Yetztu on ul. Krysiewicza it looked like Poznań didn’t need any more ramen joints, and yet these boys came along and knocked the ball out of the park again. The menu consists of shoyu, shio, kimchi, and mazamen ramen (in meaty and vegan versions), plus snacks like bao buns; the cooks know their stuff and food arrives super fast. While not exactly the place for an extended sit-down, this is one of our favourite spots for a quick bite of something good.QC‑5, ul. Kościelna 4, tel. (+48) 731 09 73 58. Open 12:00 - 21:00. €€. B6W YETZTU Ramen, ramen, ramen - the best in Poznań, in fact (though that notion is now being challenged with the arrival of Ramen-Ya in Jeżyce). Tiny and decorated with assorted cutsey Japanese paraphernalia - beckoning cats, anime figurines, worried-looking bake-danuki - Yetztu offers several versions of the beloved noodles, including shio (with wontons), shoyu (with chicken), vegio (with tofu), kao (with chili duck), and yakitori (with yakitori). There are also edemame beans to munch on, kakuri marinated porkbelly, kimchi, and the very bold ‘wonton nachos’.QH‑8, ul. Bolesława Krysiewicza 6, tel. (+48) 61 840 17 12. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. TW iyp.me/polandblog

FREE DELIVERY WITHIN 5 KM FOR ORDERS OVER 100 ZŁ

ul. Kramarska 15, www.zindo.pl reservation (61) 853-01-78 July – October 2018

Restaurants POLISH FOOD

Pierogi

Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following to the test: Bigos: Also known as Hunter’s Stew. Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty dish, it’s usually made using meat, cabbage, onions, sauerkraut and whatever else is around, and then left to simmer for a few days. If you have second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default. Gołąbki: Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served with a tomato or mushroom sauce. Golonka: Pork knuckle, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman. Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an enormous variety, made from everything from turkey to bison. Pierogi: Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, or fruit, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere. Placki: These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki po Węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure. Zupa (Soup): Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes or mini-pierogi floating in it, or with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it ‘solo’ in a mug for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl. 58 Poznań In Your Pocket

ZEN ON Truly foodgasmic udon served with add-ons like panko fried shrimp, chicken karaage, pickled and caramelised asparagus, honey-glazed bacon, and more. Vegetarians need not stay away: sesame broth is available and comes with avocado tempura, shiitake mushrooms, and nori (and a healthy serving of udon, of course). Round your meal out with matcha ice cream and a cup of sencha or kukicha tea. While outside the Old Town, this beautiful space with impeccable service is nevertheless conveniently located for anyone attending a Poznań trade fair or just coming from the train station; and for udon enthusiasts (like us), this short excursion is a must.QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 3, tel. (+48) 609 11 64 50. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. €€. TB6W ZINDO SUSHI KOREAN-JAPANESE RESTAURANT An expansion from their Warsaw and Wrocław operations, Zindo’s modern beige-heavy space still appears to be struggling to attract attention from the folks in Poznań. An all-you-can-eat sushi buffet keeps the place busy, and provides more of a bang-for-your-buck experience than the pricier dinner menu option - drop in between 12:00 and 17:00 for 60zł/person, and 17:00-22:00 for 70zł/ person. The Korean menu is a standout, and adventurous eaters can indulge in octopus, fried squid, or raw fish with vegetables to test their mettle. More traditional options like kimchi are reliably well done.QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 78, www.zindo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. €€€. TW

POLISH BAZAR 1838 Set in the historic building that once housed (and will again someday, according to rumours) the Hotel Bazar, the name of this smart restaurant honours both the building and the year it was built. Looking far pricier from the outside than it actually is, the food scores well in the price to quality ratio, and is served by a friendly English-speaking staff. Along with imaginative interpretations of typical Polish dishes you’ll find pastas, salads and a variety of original dishes. Definitely a place to impress without buckling the credit card, though you may have to protect the plastic from the exclusive shops nearby.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 222 68 64, www.bazar1838.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. €€€. TUBW BULWAR For fine dining on the main square, it’s off to BulwaR, a twolevel establishment situated directly opposite the Town Hall. With two gardens capable of seating 250 diners (!), a lovely 16th-century brick cellar, and a modern ground floor, deciding where to sit is already a challenge, and then comes the menu. Filled with delicacies like basil ravioli with venison marinated in herbs, honey-glazed duck breast with forest fruits, and grilled salmon with candied cherry tomatoes, it is based on regional, seasonal Polish products. iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants Round off your meal with a bottle of Polish, European, or New World wine from a list of over 200.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 37, tel. (+48) 533 18 11 71, www.bulwarrestauracja.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€€. TB6W CHŁOPSKIE JADŁO Anyone who has set foot in Poland before will have most likely eaten in Chłopskie Jadło - a national chain which offers good old Polish grub at a reasonable price. This new Poznań location nails the formula, and trademark touristapproved standards like various types of pierogi, hearty cutlets, and sour rye soup in bread are as good here as you’ll find anywhere. The interior is also refreshingly modern, while retaining some folksy motifs, and a playground for kids makes this a good option for families. As is the case with most Polish restaurants, you’ll be leaving extremely filled with a smile on your face and a willingness to come back.QF‑7, ul. Fredry 12, tel. (+48) 72 510 05 25, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TUBW KUCHNIA WANDY Finally, a Polish restaurant which does not descend into tourist kitsch or need a thorough dusting. Hip and elegant, Wanda’s Kitchen does meat-heavy traditional cuisine justice with gourmet options including rabbit with groats and oyster mushrooms, confit duck leg, and cabbage rolls with pulled pork, while also glamming up more questionable dishes like beef tongue. Heartily recommended, though vegetarians will do best to stay far, far away.QF‑7, ul. Święty Marcin 76, tel. (+48) 537 15 05 00. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Fri 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. €€. T6W NA WINKLU Plebeian boiled pierogi with meat or cheese and potatoes can be had in countless restaurants in Poznań, but Śródka’s Na Winklu (On the Corner) goes beyond, focusing on baked dumplings instead. Hide away in their small but hip interior and sample creations with unorthodox ingredients like dried tomatoes and mozzarella, liver and apple, or Mexican-style ground beef.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 1, tel. (+48) 796 14 50 04. Open 12:00 - 20:20, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. TU6W OBERŻA POD DZWONKIEM Resembling a traditional mountain lodge, ‘Under the Bell’ is bursting with giant timber beams, beautiful 200-yearold wooden furniture, rusty machinery, old pots and pans, piles of dusty books - even the barstools are fashioned out of saddles. It all contributes to a congenial rustic atmosphere, and while the menu focuses on traditional Polish fare with mouth-watering renditions of classics such as sour rye soup, turkey liver with potato pancakes, and pork chops, the philosophy of the kitchen is hardly the throwback that the interior suggests; all dishes are gluten free and there are even vegan options. A ‘tapas set’ of their most popular dishes is available on request.QI‑7, ul. Garbary 54, tel. (+48) 61 851 99 70, www.oberza.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon. €€€. TUB6W iyp.me/polandblog

July – October 2018

Restaurants

Duck with dumplings and red cabbage

Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from the Franciszkańska street) tel. (+48) 618 53 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl

TYPICAL POLISH CUISINE - SLOW FOOD

A kitchen like at mama‘s with recipes like at Granny‘s FR E LUTEN ALSO GMENU

Poznań, ul Garbary 54 tel.: 061 851 99 70, pod-dzwonkiem@oberza.com.pl www.oberza.com.pl 60 Poznań In Your Pocket

POD NIEBIENIEM One of the best options on the Old Town Square (generally not the place to dine if you want to retain your street cred), Pod Niebieniem serves Polish food with a contemporary twist and actually caters to vegans - score. Certified by the Wielkopolska Culinary Heritage Network and awarded at various food festivals, they pride themselves on their beef tartar, sour rye soup, and traditional potatoes with herring; more unusual options include the grilled fennel with eggplant in driedtomato sauce and the duck burger (not so traditional, this one). A nice wine list rounds out the offer.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 64/65, tel. (+48) 604 69 70 44, www. pod-niebieniem.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:30. €€. TW NEW RAFINERIA SMAKU Classy with a loungy feel (and outdoor seating right on the main square!), the ‘Taste Refinery’ is putting a new twist on traditional Wielkopolska dishes, including goose breast, duck, gzik (cottage cheese with potatoes), tartare, and sour rye soup. Breakfast is served until noon; go small with granola or scrambled eggs, or choose the large ‘Refinery breakfast’ with sausages, bacon, roasted tomatoes, mushrooms, sunny-side-up egg, and toast. In the evening, relax and unwind with one of Refinery’s unusual cocktails, like the ‘local gzik’ (whisky, kefir, cucumber, dill, and - oh, the humanity - baked-potato cordial) or the arachis-phobia (rum, peanut butter, milk, mascarpone, caramel syrup, pop-corn, and salt).QH‑7, Stary Rynek 80/82, tel. (+48) 513 06 42 22. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €€. TBE6W RATUSZOVA One of the longest-running establishments in town, and with good reason. Located right on the main square, Ratuszova serves up a vast array of healthy and modern seasonal dishes using the innovative sous vide method. If the beautiful and unique interior doesn’t impress you (and it should) then the menu surely will. Prepare to indulge yourself with classics such as steak, roast duck with apple, czernina (duck blood) soup, sour rye soup, pierogi, fresh fish, and other Polish standards. A perfect spot to spoil yourself.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 55, tel. (+48) 61 851 05 13, www.ratuszova.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. TB6W WIEJSKIE JADŁO Wiejskie Jadło is just what you expect from a Polish restaurant - a warm wooden interior, bustling staff, and big decent portions of hearty grub. We enjoyed the żurek soup and after gut-busting sausages, it’s good we didn’t have far to go - they’re located just off the market square.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from ul. Franciszkańska), tel. (+48) 61 853 66 00, www. wiejskie-jadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€. TUB6W iyp.me/poznan

Restaurants YEŻYCE KUCHNIA Yeżyce Kuchnia offers the perfect opportunity to feel like “part of the scene” and mingle with Poznan’s young, local in-crowd. The cool common room/caff-style decor might have a bit of a weird commie vibe, but combine that with an ever-changing menu of European classics and reimagined local grub and you’ll soon see why this place is a Jeżyce district favorite. During the summer months, shade-totting hipsters sit in the tiny outdoor garden sipping drinks and fiddling with their iphones.QB‑6, ul. Szamarzewskiego 17 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 663 05 06, www.yezycekuchnia.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €€. TB6W

SEAFOOD RESTAURACJA MOMO At Momo pasta dishes, duck, and salads are all on offer, but it’s the fresh seafood that really stands out with delightful and imaginative dishes created daily. The chef changes the first page of the menu each morning, and the friendly staff is more than willing to top up your wine glass. With two rooms to choose from, we prefer the smaller and cosier one, but many diners will no doubt prefer to keep an eye on the open kitchen. In the warm season, you can also sit out on a terrace hidden behind the building.QI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 501 41 51 36, www.momolovebite.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€€. TB6W

THAI THAI FAST WOK A little gem of a place if you fancy quick, simple, and tasty Thai favourites at lunch-special prices, Fast Wok was recently enlarged to accommodate more traffic. Found through an archway leading from ul. Ratajczaka, Fast Wok, while having a Pole in the open kitchen, does seem to have got the basics of this ethnic dish right, something which isn’t a given in Poland. Nasi Goreng, red and green curry, and chicken in black bean sauce are a few of the dishes on the concise menu.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 18 (Pasaż Apollo), tel. (+48) 508 52 89 89, www.fastwok.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. €€. B6W THAI THAI From fresh oysters, monkfish in red curry, and crispy duck, to classics like pad thai and mango with sticky rice, this high-end Thai chain prepares veritable Southeast Asian feasts in a refined interior with dark wood, floral lattices, and Buddha ornaments. Top the experience off with a bottle of fine red, or try the 35zł lunches, served from 12:00 till 16:00 on weekdays.QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4, tel. (+48) 885 19 98 85, www.thaithai.pl/poznan. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (38-96zł). BW

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July – October 2018

Restaurants QUICK EATS Street food has taken off in a big way; for food truck eats, check out the square next to Kupiec Poznański (H8) and - in the summer - the awesome Social Night Market (p.50). Our suggestions below might also come in handy. NEW BUSHIMI SUSHI BURRITO Is it one of those ‘white people going too far’ moments? Maybe. But sushi burritos have actually been around for a good few years now, apparently originating in the San Francisco Bay Area under the name sushirrito, if a cursory google search is to be believed. Since then they’ve spread much like açaí bowls, red velvet lattes, activated charcoal, and other food trends of the 2010s. Check your inner food purist at the door and choose from the ‘sake classico’ with tuna, surimi, avocado, and lettuce, the ‘tori panko’ with panko-fried chicken, cabbage, corn, and tomato, the ‘chili con carne’ with, well, chili con carne, and other strange inventions.QE‑8, ul. Towarowa 41/206, tel. (+48) 61 226 66 60, www.bushimi.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €. 6W FALLA WRAP Falla remains a strong editorial favourite, and now we don’t have to trek all the way out to Jeżyce to get our hummus fix: the restaurant has decided to hop on the street food trend and put together a food truck friendly menu served just a short walk away from the main square. A much healthier alternative to the usual burgers, fries, and miscellaneous fast food, Falla Wrap focuses on large and delicious wraps filled with falafel, veggies, hummus, and sauces. For something unexpected, try their avo-nori wrap, which includes beetroot falafel, fresh avocado, nori (seaweed), herb mascarpone, vegetables, rocket, and amba mango sauce.QH‑8, Plac Wiosny Ludów 1, tel. (+48) 575 59 17 06. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 -23:45, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. €€. FAT BOB BURGER Considered one of the best burgers in town (which is saying something considering PL’s recent infatuation with gourmet fast food), FBB has been drawing rave reviews from critics and ordinary meat lovers alike. Made with fresh ingredients, high-quality beef, and home-made buns, these meaty concoctions are both extra filling and a little more sophisticated than what you’d get at the drive-thru. For the vegetarian crowd, there’s a grilled halloumi option.QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 21, tel. (+48) 794 93 93 33. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. €€. UB6 62 Poznań In Your Pocket

WHY THAI FOOD & WINE Why Thai, why not? This fresh, cool, and comfortable modern restaurant refuses to bow down to the standard ‘silk road’ school of Asian interior design. An absolute insistence on using fresh ingredients, unpolluted by MSG or other flavour enhancing poisons, guarantees the dishes have a light and natural taste. The well-conceived menu is neither overly long nor cryptically complicated. Our goto is lamb in massaman curry, but for something a little different give the luk chin soy dumplings with shiitake and oyster mushrooms a go. If you’re particularly nosy and need to know what the Thai cooks are up to try to be seated in the smaller area of the restaurant with its glass-fronted view into the kitchen.QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 7, tel. (+48) 61 818 29 11, www.whythai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. T6W

VEGETARIAN FALLA Falafel bowls so good, they make us want to weep. From the assorted pickles to the creamy hummus to the highly addictive seasoned pita bread, Falla churns out dishes that are not only expertly prepared, but also beautifully presented. First-timers will be wise to go for Fatima’s Hand, an impressive assortment of Falla’s best creations, which actually does come in the shape of a hand. Also on the menu: seasonal dishes taking advantage of whatever Polish greengrocers currently have to offer, wraps, shakshouka, Turkish ayran, cocktails, and more. All this in a warm and stylish interior with industrial elements, squirrelled away in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce district. Recommended.QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 576 95 04 73. Open 12:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TBW GREEN WAY A chain of budget vegetarian restaurants that are a Polish success story. Often packed with students who know a good deal when they see one, find a well prepared and generous range of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes, including excellent pancakes and juices.QD‑7, ul. Zeylanda 6, tel. (+48) 61 843 40 27, www.greenway.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. €. T6 WYPAS Widely regarded as Poz’s best vegan haunt, Wypas is known for heaping plates of “a bit of everything”; choose your adventure from Japanese, Middle Eastern, Mexican, Polish, or Spanish - or perhaps a nice ol’ bowl of ramen or tom kha soup. Bring your eating pants (trousers for you Brits) and wrestle local plant-eaters for seats at this below-ground hole-in-the-wall.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 38, tel. (+48) 796 14 41 15. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 10:00 18:00. TBSV6

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Nightlife

Poznanians living their best nightlife at Czekolada (p.70).

Poznań bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open until the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots are concentrated around the Old Town Square, but also check out ul. Nowowiejskiego (G‑6) and ul. Taczaka (F/G‑8) - both of which draw students in droves. If you don’t see it listed here, visit our website - poznan.inyourpocket. com - for reviews of almost every place in town, and the opportunity to leave your comments about all of them. Below are a few suggestions depending on what you might be looking for: SPLURGE The best cocktails in Poznań are found in Bar Susznia (p.65), which is conveniently situated close to one of the most exclusive danceterias in town - SQ (p.70). Look the part if you want to be accepted into either. If you don’t want snooty, you can easily run up your tab sipping choice monastic ales at Kriek Belgium Pub & Cafe (p.67), while Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe (p.68) mixes luxury drinks and atmosphere for a swanky well-rounded experience. SQUARE With so many options, Poz’s Rynek can be overwhelming. Without doubt the most popular place is Brovaria (p.66), which regularly sees people queuing for tables in order to enjoy the in-house brewed beers. Of course it’s impossible not to mention Pacha (p.70) here - the legendary Ibiza club which has brought its international cred and celebrity crowds to Poz; good luck getting in. For the plebs, it’s the ever-popular Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.68), of course. 64 Poznań In Your Pocket

LADS If you need to catch the match, Poz has a rather classy sports bar in the Sheraton’s Someplace Else (p.69). Ministerstwo Browaru (p.67) emphasises plenty of obscure beers (including their own) for connoisseurs, while Brovaria (p.66) has excellent lagers brewed right on-site. Keep the night going in Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa (p.68), a cheap late-night eatery on the Rynek that will help you offset your hangover with piles of white sausage and pickled herring; it’s also a great place to meet the locals. COUPLES Another vote for Bar Susznia (p.65), the best destination for seductive cocktails. If it’s entertainment you’re after check out Blue Note Jazz Club (p.68), which attracts great international performers to serenade your better half. Basilium (p.65) does an excellent job of combining cocktails with cosy spaces as well, or do some wine bar hopping using our listings on p.66. ALTERNATIVE Catch an underground concert or an obscure film screening at the cultural peculiarity that is Pies Andaluzyjski (p.68), hang out with local hipsters at street art venue Peryskop Garden (p.66), kick back in a hammock at KontenerART (p.68), eat and drink at the Social Night Market (p.50), or try a self-serve wine bar concept at Wino na Kieliszki (p.66).

Where’s the party? facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted 6 Animal friendly U Facilities for the disabled E Live music X Smoking room available

W Wi-fi connection

B Outside seating

BARS & PUBS BAR SUSZNIA Whoa, if there’s one place that keeps leaving an impact it’s the Blow Up. Their bar is the final word in industrial chic, with metal floors, exposed brickwork, and ceilings that stretch to the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes with your head, as do the molecular cocktails, truly the work of a scientific hand. An in-house cigar lounge and extensive selection of wines complete the look; it’s not often we attach the word unmissable to a venue, so take note and visit.QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 91, www.blowuphall5050. com. Open 15:00 - 23:00, In July open 17:00 - 23:00. XUW BASILIUM A smart and cosy little location found just off the Rynek, and well-loved by the entire IYP team. Warm lighting and decorations ranging from old gramophones to flattened beer bottles suspended from the ceiling help create a laid-back atmosphere, but the main reason for parking yourself in one of the comfy chairs or propping yourself up an empty wooden barrel is the vast selection of beer on offer. Whilst there are a few on draught, it’s the rows and rows of bottles on the shelves that will have you gawping and unsure quite where to start. With over 150 brews, this is one of the best craft beer bars in Poz. In addition to this, there’s a nice selection of snacks.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. UB6W NEW BISTRO TANCERECZKA An assortment of Polish snacks and small dishes like beef tartare, sour rye soup, and potatoes with quark cheese accompany a large selection of booze including vodka (they even make their own pear-flavoured kind), craft beer, prosecco, and mixed drinks. It’s loud, it’s hip - there’s simply no escaping the exposed brick, fairy lights, and street-inspired wall art - and the folks here are having a good time. You can even purchase small bottles of that pear vodka as souvenirs for the whomever you left back home.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18 (entrance from ul. Jaskółcza), tel. (+48) 730 90 15 48. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Wed, Thu 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 07:00. 6W iyp.me/polandblog

Relax at our new summer terrace! Delicious burgers & steaks Original drinks and cocktails Sport events live stream

SomePlace Else (Sheraton Poznan Hotel) 3/9 Bukowska Str., Poznan facebook.com/someplace.else.poznan

July – October 2018

Nightlife PERYSKOP GARDEN

Anyone who has spent an appreciable amount of time wandering around Poznań will no doubt be familiar with Pan Peryskop, AKA the Watcher, a loveable oneeyed maverick created by street artist Noriaki (for more info see our street art box on p.25). Well, this is one place where the little dude can feel fully at home, safe from municipal workers’ paint rollers and power washes Peryskop Garden, and its twin indoor venue Peryskop (ul. Dominikańska 7, I-6/7), have been designed around their namesake character, with the needs of local hipsters and cool hunters firmly in mind. There are regular music parties and concerts, a more than satisfactory selection of craft beer, and even Peryskop’s own brew, Peryskop Bro. A must for street art lovers. QI‑6, ul.Szewska 8, tel. (+48) 519 16 14 91. Open Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00, Sun 19:00 02:00 only. BE6W

WINE BARS CASA DE VINOS Thirty seconds from bustling Półwiejska Street, Casa de Vinos wine bar serves as an ideal stop-off for those who know they deserve a relaxing glass of wine (or two) after a hard day of shopping and sightseeing. The friendly and knowledgeable staff are happy enough to talk you through the 300 plus bottles on display before offering you a comfy seat in which to enjoy your final choice. It’s small, it’s intimate and it makes for a perfect little place to sample some of the finest wines from around the globe. Keep your credit card at hand - you’ll be needing it when it comes to ordering a bottle or three to take back home.QH‑8, ul. Krysiewicza 5/2, tel. (+48) 61 815 28 26, www.casadevinos.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. W WINO NA KIELISZKI (WINE BY THE GLASS) The city’s first self-serve wine bar, ‘Wine by the Glass’ lets you pour your own vintage from a selection of forty. Just load up a pre-paid card by the bar, order a cheese board or some nice tapas, and enjoy your Dionysiac evening. Recommended.QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61 627 03 00, www.mlynska12.pl/ wino-na-kieliszki. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 01:30, Closed Mon, Sun. UB6W 66 Poznań In Your Pocket

BROVARIA Brovaria feels an integral part of Poznań life, and it’s certainly become established as the main expat haunt since the demise of Dom Vikingów. Yet while it feels an ingrained piece of Poznań one look at the design reveals a modern, industrial space, one where steel and glass combine to create a sharp looking area that looks as edgy now as when it first opened. However, coming here to admire the interiors would be missing the point; this place is all about beer, namely the excellent house lagers that are brewed out back in the copper vats. Here’s one of the best microbreweries in Poland, quite possibly the best: enjoy it.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 10:00 01:00. W CHMIELNIK One of the best bars on ul. Żydowska, Chmielnik sports a smart wood and stone interior, on-site brewing tanks, and a spot-on selection of microbrews to pull in a trendy 20-something crowd. The seasonal garden out back is a summer staple, and it has recently expanded, along with the entire locale. Hands down, this is one of our favourite places for lazy get-togethers that go late into the night. QI‑6, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. (+48) 790 33 39 46. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. B6W COOLIOZUM We were a little sceptical at the beginning but this place is unquestionably Poznań’s best sports bar. This isn’t the dark, divey venue you may be used to, rather a large modern space involving ice white sofas and a blue-lit bar; TVs aside, other bonuses include around 120 beers, as well as a few poker tables which seem to have a steady flow of custom. Head through the archway at no. 45 and find it down some stairs on your left.QG‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 45, tel. (+48) 783 48 76 91, www.cooliozum.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00. From July 16 open 18:00 - 24:00 Thu, Fri, Sat only. From September open 18:00 - 24:00. W FORT COLOMB Fort Colomb, part of the inner ring of old Prussian fortifications, sometimes gets overlooked on account of its location – a bit out of the old town and closer to the main train station - but it really shouldn’t. During the summer, we take every opportunity to get away from the hustle, bustle, and loud drunks of the main square and hide away in the leafy garden of this splendidly historic building, located right in Park Marcinkowskiego.QF‑8, ul. Powstanców Wielkopolskich, tel. (+48) 609 99 02 82, www.fortcolomb.pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 24:00. XBEW

Where’s the party? facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife HOLA HOLA The current ‘place to be’ on ul. Wrocławska, Hola Hola is swarmed by loud revellers the minute the sun sets on a weekend night. You can’t miss it when walking along Poznań’s party street, and if you like to drink in the centre of action, this might just be for you (if not, consider checking out their less crowded basement). The hip-n-cool checklist gets all checks: trendy light fixtures, exposed brick, and drinks served in mason jars are basically obligatory these days.QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 10. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Thu 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. W ISTNY WINE TAPAS BEER Refined but mercifully laid back (leave that tie at home), ISTNY offers a selection of 11 wines, 11 beers, and 2 ciders - all on tap - in a hip, industrial interior. Make sure to grab an assortment of tapas, which include pickled garlic cloves, Polish oscypek, Turkish brine cheese, prosciutto, chorizo, jamón serrano, and olives.QH‑8, ul. Podgórna 12, tel. (+48) 606 61 04 30. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 02:00, Closed Sun. 6W KRIEK BELGIAN PUB If ever we were pushed to name a favourite bar in old town Poznań, this place would be a first impulse. Setting it apart is a collection of 70 Belgian beers, admirably promoted by the knowledgeable staff, whose principal aim is to spread the good gospel of lager. Permanently cast in shadow, Kriek is a sure-fire winner, and a hefty bill is as expected as the heavy head that follows. Highly recommended.QI‑7, ul. Wodna 23, tel. +48) 509 74 05 33. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon. B6W MIEJSCÓWKA Once the city’s most representative street, Św. Marcin has long been a snooze lane crammed with mediocre establishments you’d hurry past on your way to the main square. Luckily, the tide is starting to turn with the addition of increasingly recommendation-worthy restaurants and bars - and here’s one. Very ‘current’ what with the neons, exposed brick, and Pinteresty glassware, Miejscówka might not be the most original, but it does earn our seal of approval, and probably Instagram’s as well. The target group here is the more hipster types, so expect lots of whimsical cocktails and colourful shots.QG‑8, ul. Święty Marcin 29. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. BW MINISTERSTWO BROWARU One of our favourite haunts for Polish craft beers; find AleBrowar brews like Black Hope and Rowing Jack on tap alongside the establishment’s own Ministerstwo beers and top-rated European names like Delirium Tremens. If we had it our way all pubs would be run by folks as knowledgeable as these fellows, who’ve boiled it down to wood benches and great beer. If you’re up before it’s afternoon, you’ll find the equally awesome Minister Cafe upstairs. Second pub localization at ul. Wroniecka 16.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 34, tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47. Open 16:00 - 02:00. BW iyp.me/polandblog

IT’S ALWAYS WINE O’CLOCK

Wino na Kieliszki is the only such concept in Poznań. Help yourself to a choice of forty especially chosen top quality wines to accompany our superb tapas selection.

Młyńska 12, Poznań | www.mlynska12.pl winonakieliszki@mlynska12.pl | 606 431 689

July – October 2018

Nightlife KONTENERART

Open till the end of August. One of Poznań’s most original spots, the seasonal KontenerART occupies a stretch of grass along the Warta River that makes finding the unusual venue feel like a drink-worthy achievement. Head down Ewangelicka (J-7) toward the Warta River and you may hear the clamouring of KontenerART before you see it. It’s worth the trouble - after all, where else can you drink in a stack of shipping containers surrounded by an artificial beach and “art” installations that stretch the definition of the word? One container operates as a stage, one as a bar, and the rest are filled with art projects that are more confusing than creative. Deck chairs and wooden pallets are the seating of choice at this hipster oasis, where no one is without a Grolsch and a pair of skinny jeans. Climb the stairs for a second-story seat that offers a view of the river and the ideal perch for people-watching. A welcome and unique summer alternative to pubs and clubs in the Old Town.QK‑8, ul. Ewangelicka (on the Warta between Chrobrego and Rocha bridges), www.kontenerart.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. BE6W

LIVE MUSIC BLUE NOTE JAZZ CLUB A vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior has shades of 90s club tragedy written all over it. Don’t let that discourage you, however; this is a legendary venue that has hosted some of the biggest names in Polish and international jazz. Do check their website for what’s cooking first - this space has been known to be rented out for teen hip-hop nights and other hoodedtop twaddle, and if there’s no concert scheduled then they aren’t open.QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Open 45 min before event; check website. E PIES ANDALUZYJSKI “Theatre / music / vodka” - this is how ‘An Andalusian Dog’ describes itself in short. Named after the 1929 surrealist short film by Luis Buñuel and Salvador Dalí, this eccentric den supplements its already alluring atmosphere with concerts, workshops, and performances.QG‑6, ul. Nowowiejskiego 17, tel. (+48) 509 68 18 71. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. EW 68 Poznań In Your Pocket

NEW NASTAWNIA POC Ok, so the staff here are aloof at best and completely detached from reality at worst, but Nastawnia PoC’s location in a converted rail signal box ensures its permanent place on our ‘unusual drinking spots’ list. With large glass windows, outdoor seating, and leafy Wieniawskiego Park off to one side, it’s a welcome alternative to the boisterous drinking scene of the old town. A word of recommendation - skip the food and stick to the booze.QE‑6, ul. Noskowskiego 1 (Wieniawskiego Park), tel. (+48) 61 670 00 70, www.nastawniapoc.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. TUBW PIANO BAR RESTAURANT & CAFE The perfect spot for business meetings and dinners, with a clean cream interior punctuated by white tablecloths, a piano, and some well-chosen local art. The mobile drinks cabinet can be dispatched to your party if an emergency surfaces, such as an inability to walk. Waiters are decked out suitably and can handle any cocktail you should require. For a more laid-back experience and a nice three-course Mediterranean lunch, head to their second room, decorated in classy but easygoing NYC style.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. UEW PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA The newspapered interior and nostalgic communist-era concept here are exactly the same as their dozens of locations all over the country (including a second in Poz at ul. Wrocławska 8, C-2): dirt cheap booze and dirt cheap grub like pickled herring and cold pork in jelly to soak up the aforementioned booze. This place is packed at all hours, though it’s best sampled during the later stages of the evening when you’re guaranteed a right assortment of characters who are happy to spill out their life story for the price of a 4.50zł beer. Very ‘Polish’ and a welcome alternative to some of the Rynek’s more expensive and snobby bars. Karaoke nights take place Mon, Tue, Thu, and Sun 20:00-02:00.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 85, tel. (+48) 791 85 95 55. Open 09:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 05:00. UW PIWNA STOPA Heralded for its broad selection - around 250 bottled beers and 16 on tap - Piwna Stopa is wildly popular with beer connoisseurs who don’t give two craps about trendy light fixtures or the instagrammability of the interior decor. Not that it’s bad: there’s a certain Czech tavern feel what with the old-fashioned wooden chairs, wall lamps, and framed miscellanea. Their leafy summer garden is highly recommendable, as are the smoked-sausage hot dogs.QI‑6, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48) 793 90 86 00, www.piwnastopa.pl. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. BE 6W iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife PRL PUB There’s two communist theme bars in Poznań, and this place has the lower profile, the non-existent marketing budget, and a tiny entrance that’s easy to miss. But it’s certainly not second best, and if anything its underground chambers make it all the more convincing in its role as a hidden piece of history. Packed with memorabilia from the People’s Republic, and that includes pictures of Soviet icons and even a riot shield once used to suppress the striking proletaryat.QI‑6, ul. Żydowska 11 (entrance from ul. Mokra). Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Closed Sun. X PROLETARYAT So what if Stalin killed umpteen times more people than Hitler? Communism can be a hoot, at least it is if you’re drunk, so head to this commie bar and raise a glass to Uncle Joe. Quality local lager, 4zł vodka shots, and - of course - an assortment of classic Eastern European drinking snacks like pickles, herring, and bread smeared with lard ensure nights aren’t dull, and you’ll find this piece of socialist paradise decidedly stuffed with Cold War keepsakes and Iron Curtain mementos. Pride of place goes to Lenin, with his giant plaster head peering through the street-side window.QI‑7, ul. Wrocławska 9, tel. (+48) 508 17 36 08. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. B6W SŁODOWNIA BROWAR PUB Set inside the old malt house (Słodownia) of the former Huggerów Brewery which has now become the vast Stary Browar mall, Browar Pub attracts a monied and grown-up crowd you’re unlikely to see filling clubs around Poznań’s main square. The arched brick ceilings add architectural interest, though all eyes are typically focused on the dance floor. Theme nights are popular here on weeknights, with weekends devoted to hits from 70s through to the present day, which might explain the classier crowd. Our only complaint is that Browar’s location deep inside the mall can make it tough to spot from outside, but follow the dolled up crowd up the outside stairs on Półwiejska as it’s worth the effort.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.slodownia.com. Open 21:00 - 04:00 Fri, Sat only. EWY SOMEPLACE ELSE SPE is a natural born winner – few places are better geared to meet foreign demands, and while the prices are undoubtedly steep (do you expect anything else from the Sheraton?), it’s a place where foreigners and locals mix with seamless ease, chatting about travels while sports beam down from their 9 TVs. American in spirit, you’ll find Route 66 extras mingled with rock pics, as well as more whimsical touches such as a car bonnet bursting from the wall. Taking centre stage is a circular bar, the perfect base to chat to staff while they fix earthquake cocktails and velvet smooth Guinness. Happy hours commence at 16:00 on weekdays and noon (!) on the weekends, going until 20:00 in both cases.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplaceelse.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UWY iyp.me/polandblog

July – October 2018

Nightlife WHISKEY IN THE JAR What with Stary Rynek being most people’s first port of call, it’s always good to have a bit of variety. Whiskey in the Jar ticks the box for ‘good-old-fashioned rock ‘n’ roll bar,’ but this isn’t your typical grubby rock pub - rather a classy joint serving steaks and burgers and killer cocktails guaranteed to leave your head spinning (Don’t believe us? See how many of their Jack Daniel’s Whisky Jars you can work your way through in one sitting).QI‑7, Stary Rynek 100, tel. (+48) 515 72 03 36, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Fri 13:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. BE6WY

CLUBS CZARNA OWCA A local institution. Upstairs is a noisy wood-furnished bar, downstairs a hot labyrinthine club. Music is usually no more challenging than chart hits, though they do occasionally draw reputable DJ’s and a crowd hell-bent on tipping lots of booze down their gobholes.QH‑8, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel. (+48) 537 67 47 57. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 03:00. X CUBA LIBRE Set down a shadowy courtyard basement, Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls, pics of Che, and wall space dedicated to an assortment of Cuban goodies. This place goes for detail, so much so that drinkers can even take a seat in one of those clapped-out vintage

BEER GARDENS

The leafy garden of Piwna Stopa

Beer gardens abound in Poznań, but some are better than others. The low-hanging fruit are located around the perimeter of the Old Town Square, but for leafier alternatives head to Fort Colomb (p,66), PoC Nastawnia (p.67), Piwna Stopa (p.68), the back of Stary Browar (p.31) where you can kick back in a deckchair, and the backyards of ul. Żydowska (I-6/7), such as the garden of Chmielnik (p.66). Nontraditional al fresco drinking opportunities can also be found at KontenerART (p.68) and Peryskop Garden (p.66). 70 Poznań In Your Pocket

bangers you see pootling round the streets of Havana. The Fiesta Latino Fridays and Disco Latino Saturdays prove seriously popular.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 855 23 44, www.cuba-libre.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. XEW CZEKOLADA Credit crunch you say? Not in Poznań, people. While the rest of the world staggers around like a shot pig the denizens of Poznań are living the high life in places like Czekolada. To call this place sexy would be a disservice; this is the final word in design drinking and the sort of cocktail spot/lounge club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny surfaces, and black finishes lend a real svelte look to this spot, and you’d be a fool to turn up looking like anything less than a celebrity. To make a reservation, head to their website of facebook.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48) 665 55 08 91, www.klubczekolada.pl. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. XW PACHA Pacha? As in, the world’s most famous clubbing franchise Pacha? In Poznań? We’re as shocked as you, but yep, those cherries are real, and this is the only Pacha in Central Europe - validating Poznań’s growing international rep as a prime party city. Decked out in plush design and pumping out house music for the masses, Pacha is a divorcee’s paradise and one which is attracting big crowds looking to dance away those working-week blues. Will its reputation be enough to pull in the punters from Warsaw, Wrocław, and Berlin? Time will tell...QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. (+48) 519 30 02 60, www.pachapoznan.com. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. X PROJEKT LAB Inspired by the Berlin party scene - in fact, conceived as a direct result of the to-be owners’ wild night at techno club Berghain - Projekt LAB is an experimental space and underground music venue that proved an immense hit as soon as it opened doors in 2013. The music of choice here is dubstep, trap, drum’n’bass, and - naturally - 50 shades of techno, often supplied by international DJs and bands. Brave the long entry lines and you’ll be rewarded with a true multimedia experience.QI‑6, ul. Grochowe Łąki 5, tel. (+48) 731 47 71 02, www.projektlab.pl. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00 only. From September open Thu 22:00 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00. XBW SQ Dance with the fittest and the hippest in SQ, by far the most envied dance space in town. Silly haircuts and expensive wardrobes abound here, and they’re here for the music not the design – DJs arrive from all across Poland to play here, sometimes even further. The interior isn’t all that, but the nights are legend, and you’ll find no better place to puff the chest out and behave like a big time Bertie.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 663 78 65 47, www.sqklub.pl. Open Wed 22:00 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 06:00 only. From September open Wed 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. XE iyp.me/poznan

Nightlife

iyp.me/polandblog

July â&#x20AC;&#x201C; October 2018

Leisure

Relaxing outside Stary Browar (p.31). | Photo by J. Wittchen

Whether you’re looking to take a break from the bustle of the Rynek or just want an excuse to stretch your legs, Poznań offers a multitude of parks, green spaces and recreational activities to consider. First and foremost are the 89-hectare Citadel Park (see p.37) - full of leafy promenades, historical monuments and museums, and Lake Malta (p.40) - one of the most unique urban recreation areas on the continent. As such, we’ve devoted a separate section of our Leisure pages especially for all of the attractions and activities around Lake Malta’s shores, including fantastic family attractions like the New Zoo and the Maltese Baths water park and spa. Whatever you’re looking for, use the listings below to stay active in every season.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS BLUBRY6D If you ever thought of dropping some acid with your young children, here’s the legal way to do it. Put on a pair of 3D glasses and immerse yourself in a hallucinatory, brightneon labyrinth of spastic trees, deranged mushrooms, and dizzying miscellany while listening to a narration about two Poznań legends (offered in English, Polish, German, and Spanish). Do try to stay focused, as the staff will quiz you at the end of each room - the punishment for failing, presumably, is to leave you forever wandering the LSD maze from hell. The whole experience lasts around 30 minutes, but you’re almost guaranteed to lose all sense of space and time.QI‑6, ul. Wroniecka 6, tel. (+48) 61 307 04 46, www.blubry6d.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. From September open 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 40 minutes before closing. Admission 17/15zł. U 72 Poznań In Your Pocket

GEARUP! Big news for all amateur aviation enthusiasts: Poland’s first full flight simulator for the general public is here! This fully functional 737NG airliner simulator has been painstakingly modelled on the real thing, with not a single button out of place, and it can all be in your hands for 15, 30, 60, or 90 minutes. And if you’re looking for something to really jazz up a boring business meeting, an important birthday, or your n-th wedding anniversary, this might just be your no. 1 bet!QH‑9, ul. Kwiatowa 2, tel. (+48) 518 39 54 84, www.gearup.aero. Open 13:30 - 21:00, Sat 10:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon, Tue.

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS BOTANICAL GARDEN Located just below the southeast shore of Lake Rusałka, Poznań’s lovely Botanical Garden boasts a vast 22 hectares and over 7,000 varieties of plants from almost every kind of climate and ecosystem in the world. Impeccably maintained, the garden is both a recreational and educational park owned by the Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, and its history dates back to 1922 when it was only a 6 hectare plot. The park includes several greenhouses, a snazzy two-storey exhibition pavilion with a gallery, shop, and cafe, several enormous standing stones they took great trouble to bring here, and a lovely ballerina fountain designed by Margaret Węcławska - a graduate of the Poz Academy of Fine Arts. Absolutely worth visiting on a nice day, though note that it is quite popular on weekends. Getting there is a complex cocktail of trams and buses, so just take a cab.Qul. Dąbrowskiego 165 (Ogrody), tel. (+48) 61 829 20 13, www.obuam.robia.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00. From September open 09:00 - 19:00. From October open 09:00 -18:00. Admission free. U iyp.me/poznan

Leisure SPA & BEAUTY CENTRUM RELAKSU VASCO DA GAIA Vasco da Gaia prides itself on having Poznań’s only isolation tank (you know, one of those floatation tanks with warm water and epsom salt), but their entire offer reveals quite a holistic approach to relaxation: there are Russian sauna treatments with Siberian herb extracts, a selection of massages (some involving chocolate and honey), a Moroccan hammam experience, weight loss programmes, physiotherapy, and psychologists specialising in stress management. All in all, if you’re in need of some serious relaxation, this is the place to try. Qul. Piłsudskiego 104, tel. (+48) 796 42 16 70, www. vascodagaia.pl. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun, July 16-28 open 16:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:30. HARMONIA SPA You’ll find pretty much all you could ever need for some serious ‘R&R’ (that’s rest and relaxation) in this 500m2 beauty salon and wellness club on the 2nd floor of the Andersia Hotel. Includes a swimming pool with hydromassage, jacuzzi, Finnish and steam sauna, gym, aerobics room, solarium, bar, and more.QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 83 00, www. spaharmonia.pl. Wellness section open 06:30 - 22:30; Sun 08:30 - 22:30 (sauna, solarium, gym, jacuzzi). Spa open 10:00 - 22:30; Sun-Wed 10:00 - 21:30 (body treatments). Y REGATTA WELLNESS & SPA Found inside the brand new Regatta Hotel complex, the Wellness & Spa centre offers something for everyone and reinforces the old adage that “size is not important.” Yep, it’s small and cosy, but the pool and jacuzzi look as inviting as you could wish for and the separate beauty parlour, massage and gym rooms are ultra-modern and relaxing. Hotel clients get access to the gym, jacuzzi, sauna and pool for free but the competitive prices make this the perfect little retreat for an afternoon of indulgence and luxury.Qul. Chojnicka 49 (Regatta Hotel, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 502 78 78 81, www.regattahotel.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. THAI SMILE MASSAGE Anyone looking to escape the raucous buzz of Poz’s city centre could do a lot worse than relaxing with a fine massage. A peaceful, modern environment (with English speaking staff ) only five minutes from the market square, Thai Smile Massage is an ideal place to forget about the day’s woes while you let one of the authentic Thai massage therapists work their wonders. Two rooms to choose from (massage room and the oil room) and a cup of tea afterwards is enough for the IYP staff to give this place the thumbs up.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17/4, tel. (+48) 727 90 52 96, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. iyp.me/polandblog

THE OLD ZOO

Photo by Radosław Maciejewski. Courtesy of City of Poznań

One of Poland’s oldest zoos, the Old Zoo dates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old pavilions, but most of the critters have been carted off to the New Zoo on the other side of the city, and the Old Zoo has largely been reshaped as a public park. There is, however, a modern Reptile House here, where you can watch Komodo dragons strutting their stuff, pythons slithering, and caimans splashing around. It’s worth the admission price, and enjoyable to visit without the exhaustion and crowds of the New Zoo.QD‑7, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. From October open 09:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission free; 8/6zł for the Reptile House. Y July – October 2018

Shopping

Pamiątki z Poznania (p.80).

Yes, that’s a Burberry store you see in Poznań. And Armani. Even Versace. You can wander through the vast, awardwinning Stary Browar mall or the new Poznań City Centre spending złoty until you’ve solved the European debt crisis, but if you’re bringing gifts back to show your loved ones what a trip to Poznań is like, a Burberry bag made in London won’t cut it. That’s why we’ve made suggestions below for where to get gifts for darling that actually say, “I went to Poland.”

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN

SAVE UP TO 16%! www.globalblue.com 74 Poznań In Your Pocket

Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but note that beginning from March 2018 a new law that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland goes into effect. To be phased in gradually, the law initially allows normal trading days on the first and last Sundays of each month, while forcing shops to close on the intervening Sundays. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops. The Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep on those Sunday when trade is allowed. The first Sundays when the shopping ban will be enforced are the following: July 08, 15, 22 Aug. 12, 19 Sept. 09, 16, 23 Oct. 14, 21 iyp.me/poznan

Shopping ALCOHOL You may have noticed that here in PL, it’s a bit of a drinking culture; more of a national pastime, really, compared to the country’s success at football. Indeed, nothing says ‘I’ve been to Poland’ like a suitcase of vodka (a new bride being the second hottest commodity). The Poles have been distilling and draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can make a legitimate claim as the spirit’s primordial homeland. As such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if it’s not to your taste. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka) and Żołądkowa Gorzka (herbal stomach liqueur). Alcohol shops are more ubiquitous than churches and cabbage in this country, so you should have no trouble stocking up at any time of night. BASILIUM A shop for serious beer lovers, Basilium stocks around 150 different types of the stuff, giving you a good chance to take home a few quality local flavours with a bit more character than the mass-produced brews found stocked in supermarkets and local chain stores. The friendly staff are more than happy to go through the choices with anyone looking for advice before making their purchase.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.

AMBER & JEWELLERY Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. GALERIA YES YES jewellery stores can be found throughout Poland, but this location on ul. Paderewskiego sets itself apart by being an exclusive gallery, curated by YES founder Magda Kwiatkiewicz herself, showcasing the highest achievements in artistic jewellery by Polish designers. As such, it has played a significant role in the shape and direction of the Polish jewellery market for over a decade, and in addition to their lovely commercial display cases, the exhibits held here are always worth a peek.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 58 48, www.galeriayes.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. LILOU Pendants, charms, and delicate chains abound in this boutique-y jewellery shop staffed by immaculately-attired ladies keen to assist and advise potential buyers. Glamorous but not intimidating, this is the place to browse miniature shiny trinkets during an afternoon shopping break. Also located at the Posnania Shopping Centre (ul. Pleszewska 1, 10:0022:00 Mon-Sat, 10:00-21:00 on ‘shopping Sundays’.QG‑7, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 797 33 43 52, www.lilouparis. com/en. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. iyp.me/polandblog

July – October 2018

Shopping MARKETS

Poznań’s open-air markets are the best places to get cheap local produce and some of the only places in the centre where you can buy vegetables that aren’t white or in jars. Add to that meats, cheeses, spices, baked goods, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. Practise your “Proszę” and point skills at any of the unique shopping environments listed below, and remember that haggling and attempting to pay with large bills will both be met with disdain. JEŻYCE MARKET One of Poznań’s most historic and centrally located markets is just west of the Old Town on historic Rynek Jeżycki. Established in 1891, this was once one of the city’s finest market squares, as evidenced by the faded glory of some of the intricate Art Nouveau facades on the tenement buildings that surround it. Lately the area has been going through a bit of a resurgence, and though the market itself may be a bit tatty and you can hardly expect English to be spoken or understood, the 400 merchant stalls here are still a good place to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as peruse clothing and other random goods you might be wiser not to take home. You certainly won’t beat the prices.QC‑6, Rynek Jeżycki, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. WIELKOPOLSKA MARKET With Poznań’s historic main market square apparently not big enough, fruit and veg merchants have been relegated to this 1600 square metre plaza only a few minutes walk away. Renovated and generally more orderly than some of Poz’s other open-air markets, this is the best place for fresh produce in the Old Town. Among its 200 tent-covered stalls you’ll also find copious amounts of meat, cheese, nuts, and other food products, fresh-cut flowers, pots and pans, socks and sweatpants, sweets, screws, staplers, toilet scrubbers, and whatever else you can imagine.QH‑6, Pl. Wielkopolski, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. 76 Poznań In Your Pocket

ŚWIAT BURSZTYNU Major amber retailer and wholesaler with over 25 years of experience to their name - that’s a lot in a country that only returned to a market economy in 1989. Now with two locations, the second being the newly-opened Posnania Shopping Centre located at ul. Pleszewska 1.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 66 88/(+48) 607 07 07 33, www.desta-amber.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. W. KRUK Poland’s oldest and most revered chain of jewellery stores caters to men and women with tastes that range from classic amber pendants and Tag Heuer watches to modern designs of their own making. Also at Stary Browar (ul. Półwiejska 42, G-4), Posnania (ul. Pleszewska 1, M-10), and Galeria Malta (ul. Maltańska 1, J-4).QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 2, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 61, www.wkruk. pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

ART & ANTIQUES The historic centre is filled to bursting with dusty little stores selling antiques (look for signs saying ‘Antyki’ or ‘Antykwariat’). A quick exploration of the side streets will reveal everything from WWII memorabilia to 19th century coins and navigational charts. Do remember when purchasing that permission will be required if you’re planning on taking anything pre-1945 out of the country for the most part such a certificate will be provided by the shop, though do check beforehand. ANTYKWARIAT Solid collection of antiques collected by Piotr Sobisiak. On offer is furniture, porcelain, silver cutlery, pitchers, jewellery and other pre-war treasures.QG‑7, ul. Kantaka 10, tel. (+48) 61 851 88 10, www.gem-art.pl. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ANTYKWARIAT (ANTIQUE SHOP) Specialises in old toys, technological relics, pre-war postcards, and other special keepsakes.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna 1, tel. (+48) 61 851 75 13. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ANTYKWARIAT NAUKOWY A vintage bookseller that rewards those who are patient enough to dig through boxes of old postcards, prints, and telegrams. It’s easy to lose track of time while meandering along the well-stocked shelves.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 3/5, tel. (+48) 61 852 63 12, www.antykwariat.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

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Shopping BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

EMPIK This large store is a one-stop shop for foreign press and magazines (prices are gougey though), guidebooks, there’s a somewhat decent English-language book selection, CDs, DVD, video games and more. Find them in almost any Polish shopping mall. Also in Galeria Malta (M-9).QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 667 12 00, www.empik.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you want something klutz-proof, then Polish linen, lace, and woodwork all look lovely on someone else’s mantle. Folk art is an easily recognisable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of the country’s favourite hero, Pope John Paul II. For football fans, pick up a Lech Poznań jersey to represent the local team.

VINYLGATE RECORDSTORE Worth seeking out, this is Poznań’s best music store - full of thousands of new and used vinyl records and CDs covering all genres, but also with an emphasis on more contemporary DJ-favoured sounds like techno, house, electronica, drum’n’bass, breakbeat, etc. Inside you’ll also find plenty of DJ and home stereo equipment, accessories for taking care of records, music merch and other gear that make the crew behind Vinylgate the leading ambassadors for the city’s vinyl revival.QF‑7, ul. Garncarska 3, tel. (+48) 501 72 77 97, www.vinylgate. eu. Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

SHOPPING MALLS AVENIDA POZNAŃ Shopping ‘centres’ simply don’t get any more ‘central’ than this modern marvel located right next to Poznań’s impressive new train station (lovingly dubbed ‘the breadbox’); as such, it couldn’t possibly be better connected to public transport or easier to get to and from. Featuring over 200 retail spaces, including Saturn, H&M, TK Maxx, Empik, and Peek & Cloppenburg, Avenida Pozań - formerly Poznań City Center - also offers plenty of cafes, restaurants and fast food eateries, as well as a multi-level parking garage. Opened in October 2013, if nothing else this mega-complex is worth checking out just to appreciate how much Poznań has developed and progressed over the last several years.QE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48) 61 627 01 90, www. avenidapoznan.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 20:00. FACTORY POZNAŃ This outlet centre, one of just a few establishments of this type in Europe, is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the brands include Puma, Calzedonia, Desigual, Gino Rossi, Mango, Aldo, Guess, and more. To get here, take tram number 76 from ‘Pl. Bernardyński’ (the square just southeast of Park Chopina, I-8) to ‘Os. Dębina’ and change to bus 610, getting off at ‘Luboń / Factory Outlet’.Qul. Dębiecka 1, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 652 30 30, www.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. iyp.me/polandblog

CEPELIA A leading chain of souvenir shops dating back to 1949, and a household name in Poland, synonymous with native arts, handicrafts, and keeping tradition alive. Largely devoid of tourist kitsch, Cepelia stocks amber jewellery, traditional fabrics, lace, dolls, leather goods, wooden figurines, paintings, ornaments, and more. QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. (+48) 61 852 58 14, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun. HANDMADE For souvenirs which are both authentic and actually useful, hand-painted pottery is the way to go; easily recognisable across Poland, these beauties from the Bolesławiec Pottery Factory have a trademark look and a tradition dating back to the 14th century. We recommend skipping the tacky tourist kitsch and considering Handmade your one-stop-shop for gifts to bring back home. Whisper ‘IYP’ to the cashier for a special 5% discount.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 61 284 17 04. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 15:00. Closed Sun. PAMIĄTKI Z POZNANIA Souvenirs galore - magnets, t-shirts, postcards (oh the nostalgia), handicrafts, mugs, and wonderful Bolesławiec ceramics should take care of your most pressing souvenir needs.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 25A, tel. (+48) 517 59 41 38. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. From September open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. SALON POSNANIA A wide selection of souvenirs connected with Poznań including lots of stuff with the most popular symbols of Poznań. Pick up t-shirts, cups, ornaments, post cards, and the like all associated with the head-banging goats for instance. You’ll also find the most popular selection of books and albums relating to Poznań, Wielkopolska, and Poland in foreign languages, locally produced art, and even Poznań-themed board games created by the Porta Posnania heritage interpretation centre.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 854 07 54, www.cim. poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Y July – October 2018

Shopping GALERIA MALTA Located right next to Poznań’s Lake Malta, Galeria Malta is the largest retail and entertainment centre in western Poland with over 162,000 square metres of shopping and leisure opportunities. Opened in March 2009, Malta features a Multikino as well as an H&M, TK Maxx, Benneton, Tatuum, Pako Lorente, Guess, Empik, and Manicure Express. Dining opportunities include Salad&Co and Costa Coffee. Trams 16, 17, and 18 all stop nearby (at either “Kórnicka” or “Baraniaka”). QN‑9, ul. Maltańska 1, tel. (+48) 61 658 10 22, www. galeriamalta.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

POLISH VODKA

The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most popular of which we describe below. WIŚNIÓWKA Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka, wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice. KRUPNIK A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added. ŻUBRÓWKA One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’ 78 Poznań In Your Pocket

GALERIA MM A shopping mall right in the city centre for all your shopping needs, be it clothes, a tall caramel frappuccino, make-up, or the sudden urge to go bowling. The location just can’t be beat - a five minute walk away from the Main Square, the Galeria MM is named after the two streets that intersect at its address, ul. Święty Marcin and Aleje Marcinkowskiego. Behind the eye-popping love-it-or-hate-it facade you’ll find around fifty popular stores.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 24, tel. (+48) 61 855 22 94, www.galeriamm.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. POSNANIA Poznań’s new shopping behemoth swung its doors open in late 2016 in a style so lavish, even Eva Longoria couldn’t keep away (yes, it’s not everyday that random Polish shopping malls manage to invite A-list celebrities). Inspired perhaps by the celebrated Stary Browar shopping complex, which manages to seamlessly blend retail space with creative contemporary art, Posnania collaborates with Pop-up Galerie 208 to integrate unique sculptures and installations into its layout. The most eye-catching of those is David Mesguich’s Lucie, the sculpture of a little girl symbolising the future, located outside near the main entrance. Oh, and the shopping? They’ve got brands like Forever 21, Guess, MAC, Sephora, Steve Madden, Pinko, and many more.QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1, tel. (+48) 61 628 65 27, www.posnania.eu. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. STARY BROWAR Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the awardwinning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure, and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away from out-of-town developments, and a new trend for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced beer until 1980, then mineral water until 1998, when it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million USD investment transformed it into the shopping and entertainment Mecca it is today. Home to tonnes of art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar also features a 5-Star hotel, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find both name brands and popular chain stores.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 601 34 84 83, www.starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. iyp.me/poznan

Shopping

Avenida Poznań 200 shops 30 restaurants and cafes

Next to bus and railway station the only one store in Poznań

iyp.me/polandblog

July – October 2018

Directory 24HR SHOPS Note that even these shops must close during ‘nonshopping’ Sundays - see our box on p. 74. LEWIATANQG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 28, www.lewiatan.pl. LOTOSQL‑7, ul. Jana Pawła II 2, tel. (+48) 519 07 56 26. MAŁGOSIAQG‑6, ul. Karola Libelta 6.

J-COM SERWIS Computer, tablet, and smartphone repairs; communicating in English might be a bit of a challenge, though.QF‑12, ul. Sikorskiego 39, tel. (+48) 61 835 26 38, www.j-com.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. NN SERWIS Laptop and tablet repairs.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 28, tel. (+48) 602 39 67 16, www.nnserwis.pl. Open 08:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

COMPUTER REPAIR

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES

DOCTOR GADGET Computer, tablet, and smartphone repairs, chargers and powerbanks for sale.QF‑8, ul. Kościuszki 72/5B, tel. (+48) 690 98 30 33, www.doctorgadget.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

In Poznań, unfortunately, unless you are Russian or American, your nearest embassy is likely in the capital, Warsaw, some 310km away.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following: Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997. English, German and Russian speakers have separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: (+48) 608 599 999 or (+48) 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season. For urgent medical emergencies, use the listings below. The emergency room in PL is called SOR, and should only be visited if it is really necessary. In less urgent crises, we recommend you visit a private clinic, where you’ll get better service and avoid the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals. HCP MEDICAL CENTRE (EMERGENCY ROOM) Poznań’s most central Emergency Room (SOR), located south of the train station in Wilda.Qul. 28 Czerwca 1956 r. 194 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 22 74 181, www. centrum-medyczne-hcp.pl. JÓZEF STRUS MUNICIPAL HOSPITAL Qul. Szwajcarska 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 873 93 46, www.szpital-szwajcarska.poznan.pl. LUXMED A private medical centre just west of the Old Town. QE‑7, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www. luxmed.pl. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. 80 Poznań In Your Pocket

AMERICAN CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 851 85 16, www.pl.usembassy.gov/pl. AUSTRIAN HONORARY CONSULATE IN POZNAŃ QF‑7, ul. Aleksandra Fredry 1/18, tel. (+48) 61 855 19 91, www.konsulataustrii.pl. RUSSIAN CONSULATE IN POZNAŃQul. Bukowska 53A, tel. (+48) 61 841 77 40, www.poznan.mid.ru.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Poznań, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve vetted them for you and assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off or take a commission. KANTOR GOLDQH‑8, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2 (Kupiec Poznański), tel. (+48) 61 850 89 51, www.kantor-gold.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 20:30, Sun 11:00 - 18:30. KANTOR PRZEMEKSQG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 64 66, www.kantorprzemeks. pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. KANTOR PRZEMEKSQE‑9, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2 (Poznań City Center/Main Train Station), tel. (+48) 667 31 31 31, www.kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

DENTISTS CANDEO CLINIC Second location at ul. Mielczarska 48B.Qul. Bednarska 6, tel. (+48) 512 83 88 11, www.candeo.pl. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. iyp.me/poznan

Directory CHILLIDENT Root canaltreatment, microscopic endodontics, dental prosthetics, pedodontics, aesthetic dentistry, and other services. English spoken.QG‑7, Pl. Wolności 9/1, tel. (+48) 61 852 27 55, www.chillident.com. Open 08:30 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. DENTOPOLIS Dental surgeon with 30 years of experience. English and Spanish is spoken here.QA‑11, ul. Morawskiego 2D, tel. (+48) 503 19 03 37, www.dentopolis-poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Wed 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00.

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LAUNDRY PERFECT CLEAN Not self-service, and underwear is not accepted. Next-day pick up. Pricing is per item, about 13-24zł for standard shirts and trousers.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 61 859 63 25, www.perfectclean.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PRALNIE SAMOOBSŁUGOWE Self-service laundromat. 16zł for one wash in a small machine (up to 6kg of clothing), 18zł for large (up to 8kg). Drying 5zł for 20 minutes.QG‑7, ul. Święty Marcin 39, tel. (+48) 604 69 05 52, www.pralnia.samoobslugowa.eu/ pralnia-poznan.html. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

POST OFFICES POCZTA POLSKAQD‑9, ul. Głogowska 17, tel. (+48) 61 869 72 67, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs. POCZTA POLSKAQF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 77, tel. (+48) 61 869 74 08, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. POCZTA POLSKAQI‑7, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. (+48) 61 886 55 19, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Mon 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES MUSLIM CULTURE & RECREATION CENTRE Services take place Fridays at 12:30 during winter and 13:30 in summer (daylight saving time, mid-March till late October).Qul. Biedrzyckiego 13 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 61 864 10 48, www.islam.poznan.pl. POZNAŃ INTERNATIONAL CHURCH Poznań International Church is a non-denominational Christian church that meets every Sunday morning at 11:00 on the 1st floor of the Sheraton Hotel. Includes the Word of God Sunday school for children (and wonderful childcare for smaller children) as well as coffee and tea after the service.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. (+48) 791 99 04 94, www.international.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

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E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

July – October 2018

Hotels

Sleep in Hostel & Apartments

Visitors to Poznań will be pleasantly surprised to find that the city is home to some of the most impressive hotel properties in the country. While Poznań’s role as Poland’s epicentre for conferences and fairs has clearly benefited those who like plush accommodations and modern conveniences to come standard, on the flip side those major conferences can cause prices to shoot up when space is in demand (rates tend to double during the annual MTP, Polagra, Budma and Infosystem fairs). Fortunately most hotels compensate by offering impressive weekend discounts to encourage travellers to stick around and explore the city. With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates these days due to these special offers, online booking discounts and other price variations, we no longer find it particularly instructive to list room prices in our guide, as we once did. On our website - iyp.me/poznan - you’ll find full reviews, photos and reader comments, on all of the hostels and hotels listed in our print guide, plus dozens of other accommodation options in the region; unfortunately, space constraints no longer allow us to print these reviews. Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities. The venues listed here also serve as distribution points for our print guide, which can be picked up for free at the reception desks of the addresses listed. Sleep well. 82 Poznań In Your Pocket

CREAM OF THE CROP BLOW UP HALL 5050QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 500 16 16 71, www.blowuphall5050.com. 22 rooms. PUK HD hhhhh CITY PARK HOTEL & RESIDENCE QA‑9, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26A, tel. (+48) 61 221 84 00, www.cityparkhotel.pl. 88 rooms. P6WKHC DF hhhhh IBB ANDERSIA HOTELQG‑9, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 80 00, www.andersiahotel.pl. 171 rooms. PU L6KHCDFYw hhhh NH POZNAŃ QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. (+48) 61 624 88 00, www. nh-hotels.com. 93 rooms. PUL6KHD F Yw hhhh SHERATON POZNAN HOTEL QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www. sheratonpoznan.pl. 180 rooms (13 apartments). PU L6KHCDF hhhhh

Full contents online: poznan.inyourpocket.com iyp.me/poznan

Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning H Conference facilities T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking on site

K Restaurant

w Wellness

D Sauna

X Smoking rooms available

6 Animal friendly

C Swimming pool

UPMARKET BROVARIAQH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. 21 rooms. PKH hhh DON PRESTIGEQH‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. (+48) 61 859 05 90, www.donprestige.com. 73 rooms. PL6 HF HOTEL MODERNOQC‑12, ul. Kolejowa 29, tel. (+48) 61 664 66 66, www.hotelmoderno.pl. 88 rooms (1 apartment). PLKH hhhh HOTEL REGATTAQul. Chojnicka 49 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 502 78 78 10, www.regattahotel.pl. 23 rooms (1 apartment). UKHCDFw hhhh HP PARK QP‑9, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. (+48) 61 874 11 00, www. hotelepark.pl. 97 rooms (1 apartment). PU6 K HY hhh MERCURE POZNAŃ CENTRUM QD‑7, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. (+48) 61 855 80 00, www.mercure-poznan-centrum.com. 228 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6KHDFY hhhh NOVOTEL POZNAŃ CENTRUM QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. (+48) 61 858 70 00, www. accorhotels.com. 480 rooms (10 apartments). PU L6KHFY hhhh NOVOTEL POZNAŃ MALTA QP‑7, ul. Termalna 5, tel. (+48) 61 654 31 00, www. accorhotels.com. 149 rooms. UL6KHF Y hhh

ROYAL QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. (+48) 61 858 23 00, www. hotel-royal.com.pl. 35 rooms. LWH hhh VIVALDI QG‑2, ul. Winogrady 9, tel. (+48) 61 858 81 00, www. vivaldi.pl. 44 rooms (1 apartment). P6KHDw hhhh

MID-RANGE CAMPANILEQul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. (+48) 61 845 66 00, www.campanile.com. 80 rooms (4 apartments). PU6KH hh GARDEN BOUTIQUE RESIDENCEQI‑7, ul. Wroniecka 24, tel. (+48) 61 222 29 99, www.gardenhotel.pl. 17 rooms (3 apartments). PL HOTEL 222Qul. Grunwaldzka 222, tel. (+48) 61 899 32 63, www.hotel-222.pl. 51 rooms. LH hh

PLATINUM PALACE RESIDENCE Qul. Reymonta 19 (entrance from ul. Wyspiańskiego) (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 882 39 40, www. platinumpalace.pl. 14 rooms. P6KH hhhh

HOTEL FORZAQul. Dworska 1 (Naramowice), tel. (+48) 61 821 36 66, www.hotelforza.pl. 24 rooms. PULKH hhh

PURO HOTEL POZNAŃ QI‑6, ul. Stawna 12, tel. (+48) 61 333 10 00, www. purohotel.pl. 136 rooms. PU6KHDF hhhh

HOTEL KORELQul. 28 Czerwca 1956 r. 209 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 222 84 00, www.hotelkorel.pl. 41 rooms (3 apartments). PKH hhh

iyp.me/polandblog

July – October 2018

Hotels HOTEL KSIĘCIA JÓZEFAQul. Ostrowska 391/393 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 872 63 19, www.hotelkj.pl. 35 rooms (1 apartment). PKH hhh

CAPITAL APARTMENTSQH‑8, ul. Piekary 16, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 00, www.capitalapart.pl. 33 apartments. 6

HOTEL POZNAŃSKIQul. Krańcowa 4, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 649 99 88, www.hotelpoznanski.pl. 107 rooms. ULKH hhh

CLASSICO APARTMENTSQD‑6, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 41 48 27, www.classico-apartamenty.com. 27 apartments. T6KH

HOTEL ŚRÓDKAQL‑6, ul. Śródka 6, tel. (+48) 61 222 00 07, www.hotelsrodka.pl. 25 rooms (7 apartments). ULH hhh

PLATINUM PALACE APARTMENTSQG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 671 05 66, www. apartamenty.platinumpalace.pl. 27 apartments. 6

HOTEL SYSTEM POZNAŃQul. Lechicka 101 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 07 00, www.lechickasystem.pl. 106 rooms (7 apartments). PL6KHCD hhh

POMARAŃCZARNIAQH‑9, ul. Rybaki 12, tel. (+48) 515 37 73 20, www.apartamenty-pomaranczarnia.pl. 44 apartments. 6

IKARQG‑5, ul. Solna 18, tel. (+48) 61 658 71 05, www. hotelewam.pl. 145 Total rooms. PUL6KH hhh

HOSTELS

LECHQF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 74, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 51, www.hotel-lech.poznan.pl. 77 rooms. H hh REZYDENCJA SOLEI B&BQI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 510 11 01 30, www.hotel-solei.pl. 10 rooms (1 apartment). P hhh RZYMSKIQH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. (+48) 61 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. 87 rooms (5 apartments). UL6KH hhh STARE MIASTOQH‑8, ul. Rybaki 36, tel. (+48) 61 659 00 43, www.hotelstaremiasto.pl. 23 rooms (1 apartment). PLH hhh TOPAZQF‑10, ul. Przemysłowa 34A, tel. (+48) 61 833 76 00, www.hotel-topaz.pl. 48 rooms. U6K H hhh

BUDGET GOLDQul. Bukowska 127A (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 842 07 74, www.goldhotel.pl. 12 rooms (1 apartment). 6H hh HOTEL RAMKAQul. Dąbrowskiego 474 (entrance from ul. Wejherowska 10, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 94 99, www.hotelramka.pl. 26 rooms. PLKH hhh

OUT OF TOWN GREEN HOTELQul. Jeziorna 1A, Komorniki, tel. (+48) 61 810 80 75, www.greenhotel.pl. 44 rooms (4 apartments). PUL6KHD hhh

APARTMENTS APARTAMENTY VELVETQC‑9, ul. Śniadeckich 7, tel. (+48) 606 88 88 00, www.evelvet.pl. 16 apartments. 84 Poznań In Your Pocket

EXPLORER HOSTELQI‑8, ul. Wszystkich Świętych 6, tel. (+48) 600 96 55 55, www.explorer-hostel.pl. 22 rooms (22 singles, 12 doubles, 6 triples, 3 quads). LK FUSION HOSTELQF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. (+48) 61 852 12 30. 17 rooms (3 doubles, 1 triple, 3 quads, 1 five-person room, 8 six-person room, 1 seven-person room, 80 dorm beds). UY LA GUITARRAQG‑7, ul. Marcinkowskiego 20A, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 74, www.lagitarra.com/poznan. 16 rooms (6 singles, 6 doubles, 8 quads, 1 eight-person room, 60 dorm beds). 6 MELODY HOSTELQH‑7, Stary Rynek 67 (entrance from ul. Kozia 16), tel. (+48) 61 851 60 60, www.melodyhostel.pl. 16 rooms (2 singles, 10 doubles, 1 quad, 16 dorm beds, 1 six-person room). POCO LOCO HOSTELQG‑8, ul. Taczaka 23, tel. (+48) 796 23 05 55, www.hostel.poco-loco.pl. 9 rooms (2 doubles, 46 dorm beds). 6 ROSEMARY’S HOSTELQI‑7, ul. Wrocławska 13, tel. (+48) 61 855 27 61. 12 rooms (12 singles, 11 doubles, 1 triple). SLEEP IN HOSTEL & APARTMENTSQH‑7, Stary Rynek 77, tel. (+48) 61 639 40 04, www.sleepinhostel.pl. 26 rooms (7 apartments). 6 SODA HOSTEL & APARTMENTSQD‑6, ul. gen. Jana Henryka Dąbrowskiego 27A, tel. (+48) 793 27 27 20, www.sodahostel.com. 22 rooms (6 singles, 5 doubles, 3 quads, 8 suites, 52 dorm beds). P VERY BERRY HOSTELQH‑7, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11/17, tel. (+48) 61 855 17 63, www.very-berry.pl. 24 rooms (6 singles, 10 doubles, 5 triples, 4 quads, 60 dorm beds). 6 iyp.me/poznan

Street Register 1KDD (Bulwar Nadwarciański) L-7/8 23 Lutego G-6; H-6/7 27 Grudnia G-7 28 Czerwca 1956 roku F-11/12 3 Maja G-7 Al. Armii “Poznań” F-2/3; G/J-4; G-3 Al. Króla Przemysła II E-9 Al. Marcinkowskiego H-6/8 Al. Niepodległości E-7; F-5/9; G-4/5/9; H-4/5 Al. Pod Lipami K-1 Al. Radziejewskiego P-11/12 Al. Wielkopolska D/F-4; D-3; E-3; F-5 Anonima A-5; B-5 Asnyka C-6 Baraniaka L/N-8; M/P-9; P-10 Barzyńskiego E-5 Bastionowa G-2; H-2 Bałtycka N/P-1 Berdychowo L-8 Bergera E-11; F-11 Bernata M-3/5; N-3 Berwińskiego B-10; C-10 Biała A-8 Bielniki I-11 Blacharska N-3; O-3 Bnińska O-5/7 Bociania B-3 Bogusławskiego A-10/12; B-10 Brandstaettera I-1/2 Brneńska L/N-11 Bukowska A/E-7; D-8; E-8 Bydgoska L-6; M-5/6 Bóżnicza I-6 Calliera C-11 Cegielskiego I-9; J-9 Chemiczna O-1 Chełmińska E-2 Chełmońskiego B-9/10 Chlebowa M-5; N-4/5 Chociszewskiego A-12 Chopina F-5/6 Chwaliszewo I-7; J-6/7 Chwiałkowskiego E/H-11 Chłodna B-11 Ciasna J-7 Cicha F-4; G-4/5 Czajcza F-12; G-12 Czapla L-1 Czarnieckiego E-11/12; F-12 Czartoria J-7; K-7 Dmowskiego B-11/12 Dojazd B-1 Dolina G-11/12 Dolna Wilda G-10/12 Dolska L/N-12; M-11 Dominikańska I-6/7 Dowbora-Muśnickiego I-8; J-8 Dożynkowa G-1/2 Droga Dębińska H-11/12; I-10/11 Drużbackiej B-10 Drzymały D-3; E-3 Dworcowa D-8/9; E-7/9 Dworkowa E-4/5 Dybowskiego G-1 Działowa H-5/6 Działyńskich G-6 Dziekańska L-6 Dąbrowskiego A/C-5; C/E-6 Długa H-8; I-8 Długosza A-5/6 Estkowskiego I/K-6 Ewangelicka I-7; J-7/8; K-8 Filipińska L-6; M-6 Franciszkańska H-7 Fredry E-6; F-6/7 Gajowa D-7 Garbary I-6/9; J-4/6 Garczyńskiego E-12 Garncarska F-7/8 Gdańska L-6; M-6 Gen. Kutrzeby H-4/5; I-5 Gen. Maczka D/F-2 Gen. Pułaskiego E-5; F-3/5; G-3 Gorczyczewskiego A-6/7 Gołębia H-7; I-7 Graniczna C-10/11 Grobla I-7; J-7/9 Grochowe Łąki I-6; J-6 Gromadzka I-1 Gronowa I-1 Grottgera A-9; B-9 Grudzieniec A-3; B/E-4; B-3; E-5; F-5

iyp.me/polandblog

Grunwaldzka A/C-8; A-9; C-7; D-7 Gwarna F-7 Góra Przemysła H-7 Góralska B-1; C-1 Górna Wilda F-11; G-9/11 Gąsiorowskich C-10; D-10 Głogowska A-12; B-10/12; C-9/10; D-8/9 Główna N/P-3; N-4; O-4 Głęboka G-10 Harcerska O-3; P-3 Hejmowskiego G-5/6; H-5/6 Heliodora Święcickiego C-7/8 Hetmańska A-12 Hlonda M-4/5; N-2/4; O-1/2 Inflancka O-12; P-10/12 Iłłakowiczówny A-9 Jackowskiego A/C-6 Jana Pawła II L-7/11; M-6/9 Janickiego A-4/5; B-3/4 Jantar M-11 Jarochowskiego A-10/12; B-10 Jaskółcza H-8 Jeżycka C-4; D-4/5; E-5 Jordana H-12; I-12 Juracka K-10/11 Jęczmienna G-1/2 Kadłubka A-5/6 Kajki A-4 Kaliska L-9/10; M-8/9 Kanałowa C-10 Kantaka G-7 Karmelicka H-9/10 Karwowskiego C-12 Kasprzaka A-11/12; B-11 Kassyusza A-5/6 Kaszubska B-2 Katowicka N-9/11; O-11 Kilińskiego F-12 Klasztorna I-7 Klin E-4 Klonowica B-10 Kmieca J-1 Kochanowskiego D-5/7 Kolejowa C-10/12; D-10 Konarskiego M-6; N-5/6 Konopnickiej B-8; C-8 Kopernika H-9; I-9 Koralowa O-6/7 Koronkarska M/O-4; N-5 Kossaka B-9/10 Kotlarska N-3; O-3 Kozia H-7; I-7 Kościelna C-4/6; D-4 Kościuszki F-5/9; G-5/9; H-9 Krakowska H-9; I-9 Kramarska H-7; I-7 Krasińskiego D-6; E-6 Kraszewskiego C-6/7 Krańcowa P-3/5 Krysiewicza H-8 Krzywoustego J-10; K/M-11; K-10; M-12; N-12 Krzyżowa F-12; G-12 Królowej Jadwigi F/H-9; H/J-10 Krótka O-3; P-3 ks. Józefa H-5; I-5 ks. Mieszka I F-1/4 ks. Posadzego K-6; L-6 ks. Wujka E-9; F-9/10 Ku Cytadeli I-4/5 Kujawska C-2 Kulasa G-5 Kurpiowska E-4 Kwiatowa H-9 Kórnicka K-9; L-9/10; M-10 Kącik C-11 Lazurowa C-1 Lechicka N-1; O-1 Libelta E/G-6; E-5 Limanowskiego A-10; B-10/11 Lindego A-4 Litewska C-3; D-3 Lodowa B-11/12 Lubrańskiego K-5/6 Ludgardy H-7 Lwowska N-9 Magazynowa E-10; F-9/10 Maltańska M-9; N-9 Mansfelda D-5 Marcelińska A-8; B-8 Mariacka O-2/3; P-2 Masztalarska H-6/7; I-6

Matejki B-8/11 Matyi E-8/9; F-9 Mazowiecka B/D-2 Małachowskiego M-5/6; N-5 Małe Garbary H-6; I-6 Małeckiego B-11; C-10/11 Małopolska B-2; C-2/3; D-3 Michałowska E-1/2 Mickiewicza D-6/7; E-5/6 Mielżyńskiego F-7; G-7 Mieszkowska M-12 Milczańska N-10/12; O-12 Miłosławska O-6; P-6/7 Mokra I-6 Morawskiego A-11; B-11 Mostowa I-7/8; J-7/9 Mottego C-11 Murawa I-1 Murna H-7 Mylna D-4/5 Mączna D-4/5 Młyńska G-6 Na Miasteczku K-10; L-10 Na Podgórniku H-4/5; I-5 Na Stoku J-3/4 Nad Bogdanką D-4 Nad Potokiem D-1/2 Nad Seganką A-3/4; B-4 Nad Wierzbakiem D-2/4 Nadbrzeże K-2; L-2 Nadolnik P-2/3 Naramowicka K-1 Nehringa A-12 Niecała A-8 Niedziałkowskiego F-10; G-10 Niegolewskich A-10/11; B-11 Niemena M-10/11 Niestachowska A-2/3; B-1/2 Niezłomnych F-9; G-9 Niska E-4/5 Norwida D-4/5; E-5 Noskowskiego E-5/6; F-5/6 Nowe Zagórze K-7 Nowowiejskiego F-5/6; G-6/7 Obrzyca J/L-12; J-11 Ogrodowa G-8; H-8 Orzeszkowej B-9; C-9 Ostrów Tumski K-6; L-6 Ostrówek L-6 Owsiana F-1/2; G-2 Ozimina G-1/2 Paderewskiego H-7 Panny Marii J-5; K-5/6 Parkowa B-9; C-9 Pasaż Apollo G-8 Pasaż Różowy F-8 Pasieka H-1 Pałucka D-4; E-4 Piaskowa I-6; J-5/6 Piastowska I-10/12 Piaśnicka P-12 Piekary G-8; H-8 Piotrowo K-9; L-8/9 Piątkowska E-1; F-1/2 Piłsudskiego K/M-12; K-11; L-11 Pl. Asnyka C-6 Pl. Kolegiacki I-7 Pl. Orawski B-2; C-2 Pl. Ratajskiego G-6/7 Pl. Spiski C-3; D-3 Pl. Wielkopolski H-6 Pl. Wiosny Ludów H-8 Pl. Wolności G-7; H-7 Pleszewska L-10/11; M-11 Podgórna H-7/8; I-8 Podgórze H-6 Podhalańska C-2 Podlaska B-1/2; C-1 Podolska C-2; D-2/3 Podwale M-5/6 Polanka L-9; M-9/10; N-10 Polna A-6/8; B-5/6 Pomorska B-2 Poplińskich F-10; G-10/11 Potockiej A/C-12 Potworowskiego A-12 Powstańcza F-12; G-12 Powstańców Wielkopolskich E/G-8 Poznańska C/E-5 Prusa C-6 Prużańska P-10 Przemysłowa F-9/12 Przepadek F/H-4; G-3

Przełajowa K-1/2 Przy Dolinie G-11 Przybyszewskiego A-5 Prądzyńskiego E-12; F-12 Pszczelna H-1 Pszenna G-2 Północna I-5; J-5 Półwiejska G-9; H-8/9 Ratajczaka G-7/9 Reja D-6 Robocza D-12; E-11/12; F-10/11 Rodziewiczówny A-3/4 Rokietnicka A-7 Rondo Kaponiera D-7; E-7 Rondo Rataje L-11 Rondo Szczęśliwej Podróży E-9 Rondo Śródka M-6 Roosevelta D-7/8; E-5/8 Rybaki H-8/9; I-8 Rynek Wildecki F-11 Rynek Łazarski B-11; C-11 Rynek Śródecki L-6 Rynkowa H-7 Rzeczna P-2 Różana G-10/11 Sadowa H-1; I-1 Sczanieckiej A-11; B-11 Serafitek K-9/10 Siemiradzkiego B-9/10 Sienkiewicza C-6; D-6/7 Sieroca H-7 Sikorskiego E-12; F-12 Skromna P-1/2 Skryta B-8 Składowa E-8; F-8 Smolna N-2; O-2/3 Sochaczewska E-2 Sokoła D-2; E-1/2 Solna F-5; G-5/6; H-6 Sowia M-9/10 Sołtysia I-1; J-1 Spadzista G-10 Spichrzowa D-10; E-9/10 Sporna F-5; G-5 Stablewskiego A/C-12; A-11 Starowiejska F-1; G-1 Staszica B-5/6 Stawna I-6 Strusia C-10/11 Strzałkowskiego C-6; D-5/6 Strzałowa H-8/9; I-8 Strzelecka H-8; I-8/10 Studniarskiego P-3 Studzienna N-3/4; O-3 Szamarzewskiego A/C-6 Szczepanowskiego B-3/4 Szelągowska J-3/4; K-1/3 Szewska I-6/7 Szkolna H-7/8 Szydłowska C/E-1 Szylinga B-7/8; C-7 Szymańskiego H-8 Szyperska I-7; J-5/7 Słonimska P-10 Słowackiego B/E-6; E-7 Słowiańska E/G-1; J-1; K-1 Taczaka F-8; G-8 Taylora F-8 Teatralny E-6 Termalna N/P-7; P-8 Tomickiego N-5/7 Topolowa F-9/10; G-10 Towarowa E-7/9 Tylne Chwaliszewo J-7 Ugory K-1; L-1 Umińskiego E-12 Uniwersytecki E-7 Urbanowska D-2; E-2/3; F-3 Ułańska A-8/9; B-9/10 Warczygłowy L-10; M-10 Warmińska A-1/2; B-2 Warszawska M/P-7; M-6; N-6; P-6 Warzywna H-1/2 Wawrzyniaka B-5/7 Wenecjańska J-6/7 Weteranów K-10; L-10 Wiankowa P-10 Wiatraczna O-12 Widna D-1 Wiece D-1/2 Wiejska P-3 Wielka I-7 Wielkiego I-9; J-9

Wieniawskiego E-6/7; F-6 Wierzbięcice F-9/12 Wierzbowa J-8 Wieżowa K-6/7; L-7 Wilczak K-1; L-1 Wilkońskich A-4/5 Winiarska D-1 Winna H-1/2 Winogrady G-2/3; H/J-1; H-2; J-2; K-2 Wioślarska J-11; K-11 Witosa B-1; C-1 Wodna I-7 Wojska Polskiego A/C-1; C-2; D-2 Wojskowa A-8/10 Wolne Tory E-9 Wolnica G/I-6 Wołkowyska O-9/10; P-10/11 Wołyńska C-1/2; D-1 Woźna I-7 Wrocławska H-7/8; I-7 Wroniecka I-6/7 Wschodnia P-3/4 Wszystkich Świętych I-8; J-8 Wybickiego E-12; F-12 Wysoka G-8; H-8 Wyspiańskiego A/C-10; A-9 Wyszyńskiego K/M-6 Wyzwolenia L-12 Wyżyny G/I-1 Wójtowska I-1; J-1 Wąska C-5 Za Bramką I-7/8 Za Cytadelą G/J-2; G-3; J-1 Za Groblą J-8; K-8 Zabrzańska M-9; N-9 Zachodnia D-9 Zacisze E-5/6 Zagonowa G-1/2; H-2 Zagrodnicza J-1/2 Zagórze K-7; L-6/7 Zakątek A-8 Zamenhofa K-11/12; L-11 Zamkowa H-7 Zaniemyska O-5/6 zaułek Ślepego Antka K-7 Zawady M-4/5; N-3/4 Załęże A-12; B-12 Zbożowa F-1; G-1/2 Zdrojowa O-6 Zeylanda D-7 Zielona I-8 Ziętary B-8 Zjazd D-1 Zwierzyniecka C/E-7 Łacina L-10 Łady E-4 Łaskarza N-6 Łazienna J-7 Łucznicza K-10 Łukaszewicza C-11/12 Łąkowa H-9; I-9 Ślusarska I-7 Śląska D-2/3 Śniadeckich C-7/10 Śpiewaków C-1; D-1/2 Średnia O-3; P-2/3 Średzka N-6; O-5/6 Śremska M-12; N-12 Śródka L-6 Św. Barbary G-5 Św. Czesława F-10; G-10 Św. Floriana C-5 Św. Jacka L-6 Św. Jerzego F-12; G-12 Św. Marcin E/G-7; G-8; H-8 Św. Marii Magdaleny I-9; J-8/9 Św. Michała N-5/7; O-3/5 Św. Rocha K-9/10; L-10 Św. Wawrzyńca A-3; B-3/4; C-4 Św. Wincentego L-5; M-5 Św. Wojciech H-5/6; I-6 Święciańska P-10 Świętojańska M-7; N-7 Świętosławska I-7 Źródlana D-1/2 Żelazka G-12; H-12 Żeromskiego A-3/5 Żmudzka D-3/4 Żniwna G-2; H-2 Żupańskiego F-11; G-10/11 Żurawia C-5/6 Żydowska I-6/7

July – October 2018

Index 239 52 1956 Uprising Museum 43 Adrenaline Alpine Coaster 41 Antykwariat 76 Antykwariat Naukowy 76 Apartamenty Velvet 84 Applied Arts Museum 43 Archaeological Museum 43 Archdiocese Museum 36, 43 Arsenał City Gallery 25 Avenida Poznań 77 Bamber Monument 26 Bar a Boo 55 Bar Susznia 65 Basilium 65, 75 Bazar 1838 58 Bistro Tancereczka 65 Blow Up Hall 5050 51, 82 Blubry6D 72 Blue Note Jazz Club 68 Bo.Poznan 51 Botanical Garden 72 British Military Cemetery 38 Brovaria 52, 66, 83 Budnicy Houses 24 BulwaR 58 Bushimi Sushi Burrito 62 Cafe La Ruina 46 Cafe Stragan 46 Campanile 83 Capital Apartments 84 Casa de Vinos 66 Centrum Relaksu Vasco da Gaia 73

DJ-ing at Peryskop Garden (p.66).

86 Poznań In Your Pocket

Cepelia 77 Chłopskie Jadło 59 CHMIELNIK 66 Chocolate Museum 44 Church of the Virgin Mary 36 City Event Poznań 21 City Fortifications 30 City Guide Poznań 21 City Park Hotel & Residence 82 Classico Apartments 84 Cooliozum 66 Cuba Libre 70 Czarna Owca 70 Czekolada 70 Dark Restaurant 50 DOMU Kitchen & Friends 52 Don Prestige 83 Drukarnia Skład Wina & Chleba Poznań 50 Empik 77 Explorer Hostel 84 FACTORY Poznań 77 Falla 62 Falla Wrap 62 Fat Bob Burger 62 Figaro 56 Flavoria 52 Forno Italia 56 Fort Colomb 66 Franciscan Church 32 Fudge Filosophy 46 Fusion Hostel 84 Fusion Restaurant 50 Galeria Malta 78

Galeria MM 78 Galeria YES 75 Garden Boutique Residence 83 GearUP! 72 Genius Loci Archeological Park 36 Gold 84 Green Hotel 84 Green Way 62 Guardhouse 26 Handmade 77 Harmonia SPA 73 Hatti 51 Headless Figures 39 Historical Museum of Poznań 23 Hola Hola 67 Hotel 222 83 Hotel ForZa 83 Hotel Korel 83 Hotel Księcia Józefa 84 Hotel Moderno 83 Hotel Poznański 84 Hotel Ramka 84 Hotel Regatta 83 Hotel Śródka 84 Hotel System Poznań 84 HP Park 83 IBB Andersia Hotel 82 Ibis 84 Imperial Castle 33 INEA Stadium 45 Inna Piekarnia 46 ISTNY wine tapas beer 67

Jeżyce Market 76 John of Nepomuk Monument 24, 25 KontenerART 68 Kriek Belgian Pub 67 Kuchnia Wandy 59 KURO by Panamo 57 Kyokai Sushi Bar 57 La Guitarra 84 Lavenda Gastro & Cafe 52 Lech 84 Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus 29 Lilou 75 Malta Ski Equipment Rental 41 Malta Ski Mini Golf 41 Malta Ski Pontoon Hire 41 Maltese Baths 42 Melody Hostel 84 Mercure Poznań Centrum 83 Miejscówka 67 Ministerstwo Browaru 67 Models of Poznań 44 Mollini 56 Monument to the Heroes of the Poznań Citadel 39 Municipal Scales Building 26 Museum of Armaments 39, 44 Nastawnia PoC 68 National Museum 44 Na Winklu 59 New Synagogue 30 NH Poznań 82 Novotel Poznań Centrum 83 Novotel Poznań Malta 83 Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem 59 Od:zysk 25 Okrąglak 33 Old Town Hall 23 Ośla ławka 54 Pacha 70 Pamiątki z Poznania 77 Peryskop Garden 66 PETIT PARIS Boulangerie 46, 52 PHOBAR 49 Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe 68 Pies Andaluzyjski 68 Pijalnia Czekolady E.Wedel Stary Rynek 47 Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 68 Piwna Stopa 68 Plac Wolności 32, 33

Photo by Artur Nowicki

iyp.me/poznan

Index

Crowds at the Social Night Market (p.50). Platinum Palace Apartments 84 Platinum Palace Residence 83 Poco Loco Hostel 84 Pod Niebieniem 60 Pomarańczarnia 84 Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre of Cathedral Island 34 Posnania 78 Poznań Army Museum 38, 44 Poznań Bamber Museum 44 Poznań Cathedral 35 Poznań Croissant Museum 44 Poznań Nightingales Neon 32 Pranger 24 PRL PUB 69 Projekt Kuchnia 52, 54 Projekt LAB 70 Proletaryat 69 przyjemność 49 Ptasie Radio 47 PURO Hotel Poznań 83 Rafineria Smaku 60 Raj 50 Ramen-Ya 57 Ratuszova 60 Regatta Wellness & Spa 73 Restauracja Momo 61

Photo by Artur Nowicki

Restauracja MUGA 54 Restauracja Patio Provence 54 Rezydencja Solei B&B 84 Rose Garden 39 Rosemary's Hostel 84 Royal 83 Royal Castle 31 Różove 47 Rzymski 84 Salon Posnania 77 Sheraton Poznan Hotel 82 Sleep In Hostel & Apartments 84 Słodownia Browar Pub 69 Social Night Market 50 Soda Hostel & Apartments 84 SomePlace Else 49, 69 SPOT. 55 SQ 70 Stare Miasto 84 Stary Browar 31, 78 Świat Bursztynu 76 Taczaka 20 47 Taj India 51 Thai Fast Wok 61 Thai Smile Massage 73 Thai Thai 61 The New Zoo 42

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The Old Zoo 73 Toboggon Run Pepsi 42 Topaz 84 Tourist Information Centre 21 ul. Żydowska 29 Uno 52

Very Berry Hostel 84 Vinylgate Recordstore 77 VisitPoznań 21 Vivaldi 83 Weranda Lunch & Wine 55 Whiskey in the Jar 70 Why Thai Food & Wine 62 Wiejskie Jadło 60 Wielkopolska Market 76 Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum 45 Wielkopolska Military Museum 24 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum 45 Wino na Kieliszki 66 W. Kruk 76 Wypas 62 Yetztu 57 Yeżyce Kuchnia 61 Zemsta Anarchist Bookshop & Club 47 Zen On 58 Zielona Weranda 55 Zindo Sushi Korean-Japanese Restaurant 58

FEATURES & CATEGORIES 50th Issue 6 Alphas 30 Beer Gardens 70 Breakfast 52 Health & Emergency 80 INEA Stadium 45 Kontenerart 68 Lake Rusałka 42 Markets 76 Mythological Fountains 24 Neon Art 32 Polish Food 58 Polish Vodka 78 Poznań Street Art 25 Poznań Tourist Card 13 Poznań Trade Fairs 19 Quick Eats 62 Riding the Polish Rails 11 Social Night Market 50 Śródka 36 Sunday Shopping Ban 74 Tipping Tribulations 54 Transport tools/Apps 12 July – October 2018

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