Tallinn In Your Pocket Winter 2019/2020

Maps Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Tallinn Winter 2019 / 2020

Rotermann Quarter

An urban meeting place (p.36) inyourpocket.com N°129 Complimentary copy

Estonian Sauna Culture

Strip down and take part in the hottest of Estonian pastimes (p.52)

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

The Basics

5

Helpful things everyone should know

Arriving & Transport Arriving

6

Getting here is half the fun Transport Navigating Tallinn

7

History

9

Art at Rotermann Quarter

Helpful things everyone should know

Culture & Events 10

Rotermann Quarter

Major events, cinemas, art galleries and more

An urban meeting place

36

24/48 hours in Tallinn 16

Noblessner - the city’s new hotspot 39

Tips on what to do, see and eat in 24 or 48 hours

Art, culture and good food

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artistic district

Sightseeing

Essential Old Town The medieval centre in a nutshell

18

Sightseeing tours By bus, by bike or by tram

23

Museums Covering city history, from tunnels to airplanes

24

Kadriorg & Pirita Tallinn’s most beautiful park and seaside await

32

42

The hip and happening neighbourhood

Leisure

46

Take action or take a breather

Estonian Sauna Culture

52

Get hot and sweaty

Restaurants

54

From sushi to sült

Cafés

69

The hottest places in the caffeine scene

Nightlife

71

Find your perfect party

Hotels

84

A bed for every budget

Living in Tallinn

87

Talking with Tiziana Galea Schembri

Shopping & Directory

90

From books to shoe repair

Maps & Index Old Town map City centre map facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

97 98 - 99 Winter 2019/2020

3

Foreword The holiday season is upon us! This is truly a magical time in Tallinn, especially with the Christmas Market in the Town Hall Square. It’s so magical that the market has been previously chosen as one of the top Christmas markets in Europe by the “Times Online” and “The Daily Telegraph”.

Read more about it on page 12.

Tallinn In Your Pocket has been celebrating 100 years of Estonian independence. Over the last year and a half, we’ve published 100 fun and interesting facts about Estonia, which we’ll be wrapping up in this issue. To read the full list, visit our website.

In this issue, we’ve got saunas, spas, winter activities and more! Tallinn has many public and private saunas to visit, but before you go, make sure you read about sauna customs so you don’t accidentally end up walking naked into a communal sauna. And, last but not least, we visit Rotermann Quarter for a look at what to eat, drink, and do in this trendy area. So get out there and start exploring!

Wishing everyone a lovely holiday season!

cover story Conveniently wedged between the Old Town, Viru Square and the port area, Rotermann’s old 19th-century brick warehouses have been transformed into an ever-growing urban meeting place for gourmet food and posh shopping.

E S S E N TI A L

Publication details C I T Y G U I D E S Publisher Linnajuht OÜ Printed by Reusner, Tallinn Published 12,000 - 15,000 copies, 6 times per year ISSN 1406-2690 © OÜ Linnajuht Company Office & Accounts Vana-Viru 4, 10111 Tallinn, Estonia Tel. +372 644 64 70 tallinn@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accountant Marian Puusepp Editorial Editor In Chief Nat A. Singer Editor Kristina Lupp Contributing Editor Steve Roman Researcher Irja Luks Designer Küllike Johannson-Singer Photography Küllike Johannson-Singer and Nat A. Singer unless otherwise stated.

Cover © Martin Dremljuga Sales & Circulation Circulation Linnajuht OÜ Account Manager Irja Luks Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Linnajuht OÜ. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

in Estonia

Tallinn

Pärnu

Tartu

estonia.inyourpocket.com 4 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Direct links: iyp.me/go-estonia tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Basics Here are some helpful tips on how best to avoid some embarrassing situations while spending your time in Tallinn.

basic data

Getting cash

Tallinn Population: 453,033 (as of 01.01.2019) Density: 2,849.26 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 53.2%, Russians 38.1%, Ukrainians 3.4%, others 5.3%

You should have no problems filling your wallet in Tallinn - cash machines (ATMs) are never hard to find. Big banks are usually your best bet for exchanging currency. At night and on weekends, however, decent exchanges are more elusive. Tavid at Aia 5 has good rates, especially when changing somewhat larger amounts and also runs an allnight exchange window that will do in a pinch. Their night rates are higher than daytime rates though. Another place that offers very good rates is Eurex at Viru väljak 4 (Viru Centre).

Ethnic groups About 68% of Estonia’s population is made up of ethnic Estonians, descendents of Finno-Ugric tribes that settled this area about 5,000 years ago. The largest minority in today’s Estonia is by far the Russians, at roughly 26% of the national population. Along with Ukrainians and Byelorussians, thousands of Russians moved or were sent here during Soviet times, and chose to remain after independence. Though some integration is taking place among the younger generation, language and cultural barriers tend to keep Estonians and Russian-speakers apart.

Language Confused? Join the crowd. Estonian is completely unrelated to Russian, Latvian, Swedish, German or any other Indo-European tongue. Along with Finnish and Hungarian, Estonian belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages, thought to have originated somewhere beyond the Urals thousands of years ago. Luckily, the younger generation and those in the tourist industry speak English.

Religion Some locals will tell you that Estonians are all treeworshiping pagans at heart, but the truth is that this isn’t a very religious country at all. There is no state religion, and according to the 2011 census, only 29% of the population claims any religious affiliation. Of those that do, about 108,000 are Lutheran and 176,000 Russian Orthodox..

Tax free shopping ‘Tax-free’ shopping is finally starting to gain popularity in Estonia and if you are a non-EU resident and plan to spend over €38 on electronics, clothing or even souvenirs - it just might be worth trying to claim the tax back. When making a purchase just present your passport, ask for a taxfree stamp on your receipt and take receipts along with unused purchases to the customs office at the airport or border-crossings into Russia when you leave the country. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Estonia Population: 1,323,824 (as of 01.01.2019) Territory: 45,339km2 Density: 29.06 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 68.7%, Russians 24.8%, Ukrainians 1.7%, others 4.8% Islands: 1,521. The three largest are Saaremaa 2,673km2, Hiiumaa 1,023km2, and Muhu 206km2 Local time: Estonia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (GMT+2hrs). Summer time (GMT+3hrs) is in effect from the last Sunday of March until the last Sunday of October.

tourist information Tourist Information Centre The city’s official tourist information point is the best equipped to answer any question.QB‑5, Niguliste 2, tel. +372 645 77 77, www.visittallinn.ee.

Open 09:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-15:00. December 24 and 31 open 10:00 - 15:00. Closed on December 25 - 26, and on January 01.

public toilets Study your geometry to avoid an embarrassing situation: A triangle pointing down signifies the men’s room (M or Meeste), while the triangle pointing up is the women’s room (N or Naiste).

Visitors with pressing needs won’t be left with their legs crossed, as there are quite a few public toilets around the city. Some can be found at the Viru Gate on Valli (D-5) and there’s a Swedish-built automatic WC on Toompea Hill (B-5), nicknamed locally the ‘million-crown toilet’ due to the public outcry at its construction bill. It can be found next to the Nevski Cathedral (A-5). There’s also a few new high-tech, self-cleaning ones around the city. The most central is right next to Tammsaare Park (D-5), and others can be found at; Toompark near Balti Jaam (A-4). However, the fear of being trapped inside may deter the more easily frightened, no matter how badly they need to ‘pee’.

Winter 2019/2020

5

Arriving & Transport

As European capitals go, Tallinn is a remarkably easy-access city. The passenger port and train station are both within shouting distance of the Old Town/centre, while the airport and bus station are a quick, cheap 10 - 15 minute taxi ride away and also easily reachable by tram.

Arriving in Tallinn By bus Buses arrive at the bus station (L-8 on the map), located just off the main highway from Tartu. Once at the station, you’ll find left luggage in the basement. ATM machines are located inside next to the main entrance.

Getting to town The city centre is just 1km away, down Juhkentali tänav from behind the station. Buses N°17 and 23 leave directly from the coach area near platform 1, heading to Vabaduse väljak (4th stop) in the centre while trams N°2 and 4 run from nearby Tartu maantee to Viru väljak (4th stop), also in the centre. A taxi to Old Town should cost about €6.

By car Crossing the border from Latvia is completely hassle-free now that the Baltics belong to Schengen. Getting over the border from Russia will take quite a bit longer. In both cases, be sure to bring your car’s registration papers and a valid insurance policy, such as the international green card.

You can also buy insurance right at the border station.

Please note that the speed limit on highways is 90km/h, in the cities 50km/h, unless otherwise noted, and the headlights have to be always turned on. For fares and regulations on bringing a car by ship from Finland or Sweden, contact the ferry companies.

By plane Tallinn’s airport (M-9 on the map) may be a super-modern affair, but it’s so small you’re never in danger of getting lost. Once past the luggage receiving area, you’ll find ATMs and currency exchange in the centre of the hall; toilets and car rental offices are downstairs.

6 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Getting to town A taxi ride to the centre roughly costs €10 and takes between 10 and 20 minutes. You can also take tram N°4 or bus N°2 just outside the airport to downtown. Tram leaves every 5-10 minutes from 05:30 until 00:45. Bus leaves approximately every 20 minutes from 06:10 until 23:30.

By ship Most ferries and catamarans arrive at the Passenger Port, terminals A, B and D (see area K/L-6 on the map). Left luggage and a helpful information booth can be found in the main hall of terminal A. Exchange offices are plentiful but not always economical. ATMs are just as easy to find. Terminal D, located just across the small neck of water, has similar services. Lindaline’s boats arrive at the neighbouring Linnahall Speedboat Harbour. NB! Terminal D (Tallink) is under construction till end of June 2020. Please check signage in the terminal and allow extra time for disembarking.

Getting to town You can just head for the spires of Old Town on foot, but a taxi from the Passenger Port or the Linnahall should cover the short ride to town for €4 - 5.

By train Arriving by train at Tallinn’s Balti Jaam (A-3/4 on the map) puts you just a couple hundred metres from the walls of Old Town. Since renovations the station itself is no longer a Soviet-era relic and now includes a small grocery store, a nice restaurant and even a day spa, in case you need to unwind after your journey. Left luggage is in the back of the main hall, just off the breeze-way that leads to the platforms. The exchange booth (across from left luggage) offers decent rates on all Scandinavian, Baltic and Russian currencies. ATMs are just next to the front doors.

Getting to town Just cross the street at the underpass and walk up Nunne tänav into Old Town, or take tram N°1 or 2 from behind the station five stops to the Hobujaama stop. Avoid the taxis that wait here. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Transport Public transport Public transport Tallinn’s public transportation system is a fairly straightforward network of buses, trolley-buses and trams, all of which use the same ticketing-system.

Trams provide the simplest way to get around downtown areas. From the centre, most major bus routes leave from the terminal under the Viru Centre, or from Vabaduse väljak (Freedom Square). Routes and schedules are listed in English at https://tallinn.pilet.ee/buy where you can also find a handy route planner to help you navigate your way through Tallinn’s pubic transport system. Detailed route maps are also posted at many public transport stops and stations.

Tickets: The same tickets/cards are good on all three systems. The simplest version is the single-ride ticket which can be bought from the driver for €2 or with pilet.ee app. If you are planning on travelling a lot via public transport, other types of tickets are good for specific periods of time and are sold in Tourist Information Centre (Niguliste 2), bus station, Balti jaam train station, airport, ferry terminals A & D, Selver and Prisma supermarket info desks, or R-Kiosk shops. All longer period tickets are now e-tickets and come in the form of a plastic Smartcard (ühiskaart). You’ll need to rent the card for a one-time deposit fee of (€2) and then purchase ‘virtual’ tickets that will be added to the card. These come in the form of a 24-hour (€3), 72-hour (€5), 5-day (€6) or 30-day (€23) pass. The card will need to be validated upon entering the vehicle. Each time you add another ‘E-ticket’ to the card you’ll need to repeat this process. One-hour Tallinn tickets (€1.10) may also be purchased onboard using Mastercard, Maestro, Visa and Visa Electron bank cards with contactless interfaces.Qwww.tallinn.pilet.ee/buy.

Parking Tallinn is so centralised and pedestrian-friendly that there’s absolutely no reason to bring a car. If you happen to be here with your own set of wheels though, keep in mind that finding parking in downtown Tallinn, especially during working hours, can be a real nightmare. Public parking on streets in the town centre, as well as a few streets in Old Town, costs €1.5 - 6/hour, depending on the zone. Look for posted signs to tell you the price and the hours/days that paid parking is in effect. Buy per-hour parking passes from streetside vending machines or kiosks, and be sure to leave a parking clock (or barring that a written note) on your dashboard to mark the time that you first parked. If all this sounds too complicated, you can just use the following guarded central parking lots/garages: Europark Toompea 3 €2.40/hour.QB‑6, Toompea 3, www.europark.ee.

Rotermann parking house Entrance from Ahtri street. €2.40/hr.QE‑4, Rotermanni 5, www.europark.ee. Open 24hrs.

Viru Centre parking house €2/hour.QE‑5, Viru väljak 4, www.parkimine.ee. Open 24hrs. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

airport Lennart Meri - Tallinn Airport Voted third best airport in Europe, Tallinn’s airport is a modern affair, but still so small there’s never a worry about getting lost. Officials still recommend you arrive 2 hours before your flight though. A taxi ride from the centre roughly costs €10 and takes between 10 and 20 minutes. Alternatively, tram N°4 from the Viru stop will conveniently take you to the airport in just 20 minutes.

You can also take bus N°2 from the A. Laikmaa stop on Laikmaa street, located between the Viru Shopping Centre and Tallink Hotel.QM‑9, Tartu mnt. 101, tel. +372 605 88 88 (24hr flight info), www.tallinn-airport.ee.

Buses If you’re travelling city-to-city in the Baltics or around Estonia and you don’t have your own car, the bus is definitely the way to go. It’s also a good way to meet local students. Connections are frequent and cheap, allowing you to cross the country for the same money you might spend on a taxi in Tallinn.

Bus Station Tallinn’s small bus station has been recently renovated to suit the modernity of its passengers. Tickets are available inside the station or from the driver (let ticket-holders get on the bus first). Ticket prices depend on the bus company and route. On international routes it is advisable to reserve or buy your ticket in advance. On internal routes this is generally not necessary, however there are exceptions: On Fridays and Sundays buses to popular weekend destinations like Pärnu or Tartu tend to fill up quickly, so buying your ticket earlier in the day will guarantee a spot. Get to the station by taking city trams N°2 and 4 from the centre, or bus N°17 or 23 next to the Solaris Centre, to the Bussijaam stop.QL‑8, Lastekodu 46, tel. +372 680 09 00, www.bussijaam.ee. Open 05:00-01:00.

Ecolines A large bus company with routes throughout the Baltics, Europe and probably the best way to get to Riga from Tallinn - for the price. Ecolines is generally less expensive than other transportation options or bus lines, without compromising on comfort or quality. Conveniently you can book and pay for tickets via the internet, this option also comes with a discount and you won’t have to wait in line at the ticket office. See website for additional info.

QL‑8, Tartu mnt. 68, tel. +372 606 22 17, www.ecolines. ee. Open 07:00-21:00; Tue, Wed 07:00-19:00. P­W Lux Express Lux Express runs most international bus routes from Estonia and also several domestic routes. Seats can be reserved in advance by calling ahead. You can also buy tickets from the website. Find the office on the bus station’s first floor.QL‑8, Lastekodu 46, tel. +372 680 09 09, www. luxexpress.eu. Open 07:00 - 20:00. Sun 08:00 - 20:00.

Winter 2019/2020

7

Mr.&Mrs.

VIP

Arriving & Transport taxis

Ferries

Taxi stands can be found near major hotels and in several locations just outside Old Town, but grabbing a taxi on the street usually comes with a premium fare.

Taxis typically charge a starting fee plus a kilometre rate. Luckily the city government has implemented a law governing taxis and have put a cap on the starting fare (max. €5.50) and per kilometre rates (€1.10/ km) - so even if you just hail a cab you shouldn’t be in for too much of a surprise. Ordering by phone is the best strategy though, as usually they have better rates. Another option is to use one of the numerous taxi ordering apps like Bolt (former Taxify), Taxigo or Drivr to name a few. The often controversal Uber ‘taxi’ service is also availble in Tallinn.

The vast majority of visitors travelling onward from Tallinn go by ship, and it’s no wonder - the city has excellent, affordable ferry connections to Helsinki, Stockholm and Saint Petersburg. On the Tallinn-Helsinki route, you have the choice between large car ferries, which make the crossing in about two hours, and fast ferries (hydrofoils and catamarans), which usually take only 1.5 hours, but are seasonal and don’t run in all weather conditions. Ferries are operated

by Tallink (www.tallink.ee), who have large and fast car ferries. Viking Line (www.vikingline.ee) and Eckerö Line (www.eckeroline.ee) also operate the Tallinn-Stockholm line. St.Peterline (www.st.peterline.ee) runs a weekly Tallinn-St.Petersburg-Helsinki route. Ferries leave from various terminals of the city’s two passenger harbours, clustered just outside Old Town (see area G-4 on the map).

Krooni Takso €2.50 + €0.50 - 0.55/km.Qtel. +372 638 12 12/1212, www.kroonitakso.ee.

Peretakso Only large taxis available, best for small groups. €4.80 + €0.95/km.Qtel. +372 646 00 06/16111, www. peretakso.ee.

Reval Takso €2.29 + €0.49/km.Qtel. +372 601 46 00/1207, www. reval-takso.ee.

Sõbra Takso €2.29 + €0.49/km.Qtel. +372 621 50 80/1714, www. sobratakso.ee.

Takso24 €2.95 + €0.60 - 0.75/km.Qtel. +372 640 89 27/1224, www.takso24.eu.

Tallink Takso €3.95 + €0.99 - 1.10/km.Qtel. +372 640 89 21/1921, www.tallinktakso.ee.

Tulika Takso €3.85 + €0.79 - 0.89/km, maxi taxi for up to 7 persons €4.55 + €0.89/km.Qtel. +372 612 00 00/1200, www. tulika.ee.

Välk Takso Electric cars with slightly higher rates. €3.20 + €0.60 - 0.70/ km.Qtel. +372 509 97 09/1917, www.valktakso.ee.

PASTA I PIZZA I BAR CHECK IT OUT ON PAGE 63

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Passenger Port Nearly all ferry companies use the Tallinn Old City Harbour’s Passenger Port, which is divided into terminals A, B and D. NB! Terminal D (Tallink) is under construction until June 2020. Please check signage in the terminal and allow extra time for boarding. QE‑2, Sadama 25, tel. +372 631 85 50, www.portoftallinn.com. Information open in A-Terminal 06:00 - 19:00, in D-Terminal 06:00 - 22:30, Sat 06:00 - 20:30.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app

trains Train travel in Estonia hasn’t gained the popularity it has elsewhere in Europe.The only real international connections are to point east (Moscow, St.Petersburg and beyond).

Although plans are under way, forget about taking the train to Riga or Vilnius. It is, however, possible to get to Tartu and other Estonian cities by rail. Two separate companies cover Estonia’s train system: GoRail (www.gorail.ee) handles international, Elron (www.elron.ee) operates the local electric trains and the inter-city diesel trains.

Train Station (Balti jaam) Located just outside Old Town, Tallinn’s revamped train station boasts a trendy café, fountain, a day spa and a small grocery store, but unfortunately has little information posted in English. Luckily, the system is not too confusing and there are information and ticket booths (open 07:00 - 21:30), usually staffed by someone multi-lingual. For all domestic routes, you don’t even have to bother with this process since the same tickets can always be purchased right on board the trains themselves - as long as you know which track your train will leave from. Tickets for trains to Russia are sold at the ticket booths on the 2nd floor, which are open daily 08:30 - 19:00.QA‑4, Toompuiestee 37, www.baltijaam.ee.

Winter 2019/2020

9

Culture & Events While Tallinn may not be a cultural metropolis like London, Paris or New York, people here do still like to feed their souls.

The town is home to a number of theatres, an opera house, several interesting museums, galleries, and even a couple art-house cinemas. If you are still thirsting for more, an exhaustive calendar of culture is available at www.culture.ee.

main events Monet2Klimt - Innovative Multimedia Art Exhibition Helios Hall (C-5, Sauna 1). Open 12:00 - 20:00, www. monet2klimt.ee.

Located in over 100-year-old cinema building on Sauna street in the Old Town, this is perhaps the best venue to experience such a unique show. Watch the works of Klimt, Van Gogh, and Monet come to life, bringing out the important elements of famous paintings you may have never noticed before. One hundred and forty images are integrated with classical music for a show that lasts 45 minutes. Pop in anytime throughout this interactive exhibition and stay as long as you like. And, best of all, the exhibition is exciting for both young and old.

Christmas Jazz November 29 - December 12, various venues throughout Tallinn, www.jazzkaar.ee.

In what has become an Estonian Christmas mainstay, ‘Christmas Jazz’ will again pull all the stops in bringing together an international and homegrown group of performers for what has become one of the musical highpoints of every holiday season in Tallinn. Concerts are held all over Estonia so be sure to consult the website for times, locations and a complete list of performers - you’ll probably even need to book a few extra room nights so you can attend every concert.

where to get tickets Tickets to most major events are available from: Piletilevi E-5, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, www. piletilevi.ee. Also at: D-6, Solaris Centre, Estonia pst. 9.

Estonia’s major concert organiser, Eesti Kontsert, has its own box office in Tallinn at D-6, Estonia pst. 4, tel.

614 77 00, info@concert.ee, www.concert.ee.

10 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Gingerbread Mania December 5 - January 5, 2020. Design & Architecture Gallery; www.piparkoogimaania.ee. Open 11:00 18:00; closed January 1.

You remember what happened to the gingerbread man in the Shrek movie, right?

Pretty scary stuff if you happen to be made out of dough. Although you probably won’t see too many traditional gingerbread men or houses at this annual, modern art exhibit, pretty much anything can be made out of gingerbread and the sky is literally the limit. This year’s theme is ‘Mythology’, where over 100 artists, designers, and architects will turn 300 kg of dough into unique creations.

Festival of Light - The Greatest Asian Lantern December 6 - 12, Song Festival Grounds, https:// aasialaternafestival.ee.

For the first time ever, a traditional Chinese festival of light will take place in Tallinn. The festival’s programme will include shows, an enormous light sculpture park with more than 20 themed light installations, as well as a Christmas fair showcasing the work of visiting artisans from China.

Christmas Village - The Holiday of Light December 14 - 15, Estonian Open Air Museum, www. evm.ee.

Christmas time is always a good time at the Christmas Village. Set in the unique backdrop of the Open Air Museum and amidst the historic buildings from the days of yore, this year’s event will follow the various Estonian Christmas traditions throughout the ages. Visitors are invited to experience how they changed or developed since the end of the 19th century, all the way until late in the era of Soviet occupation in 1980. Each farm building will display a snapshot frozen in time from a particular era. Make sure to also take a tour throughout the vast grounds in the horse-drawn carriage or sleigh, depending on the weather. You’ll also want to pay a visit to the historic tavern for a glass of mulled wine and traditional Estonian Christmas foods. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

opera, ballet and more Estonian National Opera The majestic, historical opera house is located in the very heart of Tallinn. The repertoire consists of classical and contemporary operas, ballets, as well as operettas, musicals, and frequent performances by internationally-renowed guests. More information and tickets: www.opera.ee. QD‑6, Estonia pst. 4, tel. +372 683 12 15, www.opera.ee. Box office open Tue - Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Y

New Year’s Eve Ball – Man and Woman December 31 The Estonian National Opera invites everyone to enjoy the dazzling moments of the traditional New Year’s Eve Ball! Come and dance to the symphony orchestra as well as to the music performed by Mart Sander and Swing Swindler. Enjoy the ballet performance by the Estonian National Ballet: “Youth Has No Age” and “Tango” staged by Jevgeni Grib.

The Count of Luxemburg Operetta by Franz Lehár. Premiere in the Estonian National Opera on January 24, 2020.

With its charmingly romantic theme, effective stage action and abundance of spirited and delicate moods “The Count of Luxemburg” gave Franz Lehár every opportunity to display his talent. The score, full of catchy waltzes and polkas alternating with lush ballads, makes it easy to understand why it has received such warm welcome all over the world!

Winter 2019/2020

11

Culture & Events an estonian christmas

christmas markets Christmas Market November 15 - January 7, 2020. Old Town Square Open daily 10:00 - 20:00, www.christmasmarket.ee.

At the market you will find handicraft specialists and their work and seasonal Estonian food and drink. A cultural programme can be viewed on the stage on Fridays and Saturdays at 17:00 - 19:00, and on Sundays 12:00 - 14:00.

Santa’s House is open daily 12:00 - 18:00. Hot drinks will be served until 22:00, Fridays and Saturdays until 23:00.

Though they feel like they’re as much a part of the December scenery as the long nights and the snow, in fact Christmas trees, Santa Claus and the other staples of the season that are taken for granted in Western Europe came to Estonia relatively late in its history. With their roots in pagan custom, Estonia’s holiday traditions have their own, unique character.

In the days of old, the Christmas season began on St. Thomas’ Day (Dec. 21) when the frenzy of cleaning, cooking, and brewing for the big holiday would begin. On this day, ‘Sooty Thomas,’ a large, dirty scarecrow, would be passed from house to house, damning the household whose doorstep he darkened at sunset to a year of grime.

Cristmas Eve, traditionally and today, is the highpoint of the holiday season. On this day clean straw was brought into the house and placed on the floor or the table, symbolising fertility. To bring good luck and plenty for the coming year the family would eat nine times, leaving the food on the table all night so that the souls of the ancestors could partake as well. It was believed that ghosts moved about freely on Christmas Eve, and would often be called upon for help in fortune telling. Today children have adopted the custom of pouring molten tin or lead into cold water and interpreting the shapes that it forms.

In contrast to Christmas Eve, when the presents are opened and the big meal is eaten, Christmas Day is a more sombre occasion, meant for church-going, visiting relatives and eating left over pork with sauerkraut.

Santa Claus is nowadays very much part of the holiday activity, but here he requires children to recite a Christmas poem or song before giving them their presents. Most family and even office parties can also involve a similar command performance, so it wouldn’t hurt to memorise something for the occasion.

12 Tallinn In Your Pocket

telliskivi Christmas fairs Christmas Gift Day - December 7, 11:00 - 19:00. Taking place at Telliskivi Creative City, this promises a day full of workshops, music, tasty treats and of course gift shopping.

Handicraft, design and art fair - December 8, 10:00 15:00 Visit the Green Room for this annual fair where you’ll find all the gifts you need from a huge selection of handicrafts, jewellery, calendars, paintings, designer clothes, natural cosmetics and much more! Entry is free.

Christmas fair - December 15, 10:00 - 15:00.

Visit the Telliskivi Flea Market Christmas Fair on December 15 in the Green Room for lots of second hand treasures and handicrafts, including knitwear, designer clothes for all sizes, natural cosmetics, Christmas ornaments and much, much more!

EKA Christmas Fair 2019 December 8 at 10:00 - 17:00, Estonian Academy of Arts (Põhja pst. 7).

It’s that time of year again for the annual Christmas Fair of EKA (Estonian Academy of Arts) students and alumni. Close to 100 vendors will be taking part, including artists and designers/students and alumni.

You’ll find pottery, jewellery, accessories, graphics, calendars, watches, fashion, bicycles, reflectors and much more. Entrance is free. Tip: Bring cash.

Design Market ‘Home for Christmas’ December 15, Open 11:00 - 18:00. Tallinn Creative Hub, https://disainikeskus.ee.

Get into the holiday spirit with good music, great coffee, and of course fabulous design. Browse the handmade accessories, bags, ceramics, homewares, art, and more, of over 100 Estonian, Latvian, and Lithuanian designers at this annual design market.

Baltic Station Christmas Market December 14, Open 11:00 - 18:00.

Finish your last minute shopping and sample traditional Christmas foods at the Baltijaam Market. On December 14, in addition to the many vendors already located on the second floor of the market, an additional 60 gift vendors will be present, and of course Father Christmas, too. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events IX Tallinn Bach Music Festival January 1 - 7, 2020, Niguliste Church, www.arsmusica.ee.

It’s all about Bach, man! This music festival has grown from just a few guys sitting around a large ‘organ’, into a series of daily concerts which have become quite a tradition.

The concert programs will present organ, instrumental, orchestral, choral and vocal works by Johann Sebastian Bach and will feature a host of talented musicians.

Experiencing the music of Bach in these historical venues should be an original, heartwarming and beautiful way to start the New Year in Tallinn.

The Beauty and the Beast February 22 - 23, Alexela Concert Hall, www.piletilevi.ee.

Disney fans, both young and old will enjoy this beautiful love story brought to life with song and dance. The show promises fabulous special effects and more. Subtitles will be available in Finnish and English; Russian subtitles will be available on the app display.

MustonenFest 2020 January 31 - February 8 , various venues in Old town, www.concert.ee.

This annual festival devoted to Baroque music takes place all over Estonia with the majority of shows being held in Tallinn.This year this focus is on bringing Baroque music to the masses - they claim that Baroque as a musical style isn’t dead but instead a living entity that can also change and progress as time goes on. The performers come from Estonia and all over Europe. Expect a lot of Latin with the occasional motets and a swansong thrown in for good measure. A must attend for fans of the genre.

Simple Session 20 February 8 - 9, Saku Suurhall, www.session.ee.

Over the years, Simple Session has grown from a local competition to an internationally recognised, and loved, extreme sports event. Every year it draws more and more foreign competitors and known riders - reaching an audience of millions around the world through Youtube and various media outlets. Simple Session is a weekend full of spectacular thrills and spills with around 200 top cyclists and skateboarders from all over the world. Among other things, Simple Session will allow spectators to vicariously enjoy top-ranking international and Estonian

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

st.valentine’s day

February 14 isn’t a conventional Estonian celebration, but like most Western traditions, it’s gaining popularity, especially among younger Estonians. You may encounter locals taking part in the usual flower, chocolate and card-giving, but as it’s known here as Sõbrapäev or ‘Friend’s Day’, this takes place between friends as well as lovers. If you do celebrate Valentine’s Day in the traditional sense, the best place to buy flowers is at the Viru Old Town entrance. Here you’ll find everything from bouquets to single roses, some shops are even open 24 hours. Be warned that the giving of an even number of flowers is generally reserved for funerals. That is until the stems exceed 10, at which time people stop counting and it doesn’t really matter.

Interestingly, Estonians are more likely to publicly declare their love on the first day of spring when couples meet at Kissing Hill, the park next to the Viru Gates, to engage in the activity for which the hill was named. Several romantic statues can be found there as well, including the one pictured above. skateboarding and BMX stars. As always, the competition will take place in an infectious and unbridled atmosphere.

A two-day event pass costs €32-38.

Shrove Tuesday at the Open Air Museum February 23 - 25, Estonian Open Air Museum, www. evm.ee.

On Shrove Tuesday, people eat pig’s feet and rich pea soup, carve spinning-tops out of bone, play Shrovetide games and slide over the snow as far as they can. It’s all part of ancient fertility rituals and ensuring that the year ahead will be a good one. In the old days, Shrove Tuesday was a women’s holiday, and the fairer sex were forbidden from doing almost any work. Instead, they would go to the tavern, have a drink, dance and predict the future using the thigh bones of a pig - when that was all over they would come home and ravish their men. Not sure how much ravishing will be done at the Open Air Museum, but it should be a lot of fun at any rate. Entrance to museum €6 - 8.

Winter 2019/2020

13

Culture & Events fact #92

cultural centre

Europe’s largest sauna marathon takes place every year in Otepää in southern Estonia. With over 70 different saunas in the area, participants must find their way to the saunas as quickly as possible (using a map, of course) and spend at least three minutes in each one. Bonus points are awarded for taking a plunge into an ice hole, cold pool or other challenges created by the sauna owners.

The team that visits all of the saunas in the shortest time wins.

Tallinn Creative Hub (Kultuurikatel) Located nearby Linnahall in a host of renovated industrial buildings and just a short hop across the street from Old Town - this cultural area has lots to offer the visitor who is looking for something a little different.

From concerts to workshops, film nights, theatrical performances, fashion shows, various art exhibitions, special events and even the occasional flea market - the opportunities here are endless. The Tallinn Creative Hub Garden “PADA” is open in summer and hosts a number of alternative events throughout the season.

Entrance to the garden and café from Kalasadama 6.

The opening hours vary widely so check the website and their Facebook page for details about current happenings.QD‑2, Põhja pst. 27a, tel. +372 56 20 11 15, www.kultuurikatel.ee.

Art galleries There are loads of little galleries in Tallinn, here we have listed some of the more important and centrally-located ones.

Please check Noblessner section on p.40 for Kai Art Centre.

Design & Architecture Gallery Changing exhibition of Estonian product design.QC‑5, Pärnu mnt. 6, tel. +372 627 36 30. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Sun. Free admission.

Draakoni Gallery The famous Dragon gallery holds small, often strange exhibitions in its quaint, Old Town shop. QC‑4, Pikk 18, tel. +372 646 41 10, www.eaa.ee/draakon/. Open 11:0018:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun. Free admission.

Haus Gallery A commercial gallery, Haus is also open to the public and has an active exhibition schedule. December 5 - 31: Jüri Mildeberg. Unicorn and Tutti-Frutti. December 6 - 31: Mall Nukke. Metamorphoses. January 7, 2020 - February 2: Alina Orav. Polyview Worlds. QC‑4, Uus 17, tel. +372 641 94 71, www.haus.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:0016:00; closed Sun. Free admission. Buzz to enter.

promote and support the development of documentary photography in Estonia as well as showcasing of Estonian documentary photos around the world. December 4, 2019 - March 1, 2020: Masha Ivashintsova - Chiaroscuro.

See website for full programme of events and exhibitions. QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/5, tel. +372 522 24 22, www. dokfoto.ee/en. Open 12:00-19:00. Admission €5, re‑ duced €3, family €10.

Tallinn Art Hall & Galleries Drop into this imposing 1930s-era building on Vabaduse square to find some of the most daring and avant-garde temporary exhibitions from Estonia and abroad. The Art Hall’s smaller galleries (where admission is free) at Vabaduse väljak 6 and Harju 13 host separate exhibitions.

Until December 15: Jane Remm. Views on a Landscape.

Until December 15: Vello Vinn. ∞ & ○. December 14 - February 24, 2020: Disarming Language: disability, communication, rupture. December 21 - February 16: Edgar Tedresaar and Sten Saarits. Black Gold. December 20 - February 09: Mall Paris and Edith Karlson. Sisters.

QC‑6, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. +372 644 28 18, www. kunstihoone.ee. Open 12:00-19:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €6, reduced €3, family €9. Y

Hobusepea Gallery The Estonian Artists’ Union operates this cosy, two-storey gallery.QC‑4, Hobusepea 2, tel. +372 627 67 77, www. eaa.ee/hobusepea. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Tue. Free admission.

Juhan Kuus Documentary Photo Centre Named after Juhan Kuus, a world-renowned documentary photographer of Estonian origin who lived and worked in South Africa. This new documentary photo centre aims to 14 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Tallinn Art Hall and Galleries

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Cinemas Tallinn’s cinemas are fairly central, and all films except kids’ films are shown in their original language with Estonian subtitles.

Apollo Kino Solaris Located in the Solaris Centre, this is the most state of the art cinema in Tallinn. Tickets for evening shows cost €7.19 8.39, 3D costs €8.39 - 9.49.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9, tel. +372 633 60 20, www.apollokino.ee.

Artis Tallinn’s two-theatre, art-house cinema has a full schedule of independent films, Estonian productions, shorts and kids’ films.

Tickets cost €5.50 - 7.20, 3D costs €6.20 - 8.80.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 663 13 80, www.kino.ee.

Cinamon Kosmos During the Soviet-era, Kosmos was the most advanced cinema in the Baltics - now housing the first IMAX cinema in the region it can claim this title once again.Three theatres are housed here - the largest of which can hold up to 322 viewers and screens IMAX movies only. Regular and 3D films are also shown in the other halls. See website for programme and ticket details. Tickets cost €5.83 - 9.77, IMAX €8.33 - 10.77.QK‑8, Pärnu mnt. 45, tel. +372 53 08 07 02, www.cinamonkino.com/kosmos.

Coca-Cola Plaza This high-tech, 11-screen super cinema is most people’s first stop for Hollywood blockbusters. Now even featuring a 3D theatre. Tickets for evening shows cost €7.50 - 8.70, 3D costs €8.50 - 9.70.QE‑4, Hobujaama 5, www. forumcinemas.ee.

Sõprus This is the kind of place cinemaphiles hang out at. These art house films are often European or Estonian productions, but be warned - you may not be able to see them with English subtitles. Truly for the more hard core among cinema viewers.

See website for schedule. Ticket booth opens one hour before ‘seance’ - not really sure what that means, but Bela Lugosi might also be in attendance. Tickets cost €3 - 6.50.QC‑5, Va‑ na-Posti 8, tel. +372 644 19 19, www.kinosoprus.ee.

Event and Culture Venues

shrove tuesday Shrove Tuesday (vastlapäev) is the last day of winter fun and feasting before the season of Lent and fasting begin. Traditionally on this day, people would eat pig’s feet and rich pea soup, carve spinning-tops out of bone, play Shrovetide games and slide over the snow as far as they can. It was all part of ancient fertility/ bounty rituals ensuring that the year ahead would be a good one.

On vastlapäev, teens, kids, grownups and even grandmas spend their time engaged in reckless downhill sledging. In the days of yore, sledging was supposed to guarantee a good flax harvest, but nowadays it‘s strictly for fun - unless you happen to grow flax.

Before, during, or after a few hours of sledging you’ll certainly want, in fact ‘need’ to participate in gorging yourself on vastlakuklid (delicious, whip cream-filled sweet buns). A popular pastry since as far back as anyone can remember, in recent years it has grown into a full-on dough and cream-filled frenzy. These treats can be picked up at most cafés and bakeries in Old Town, supermarkets and many a mini market also make sure to stock them. Of course, not all vastlakuklid are created equal, you’ll want to seek out the ones that contain real whipped cream, a bit of jam/marmalade, and ideally they’ll also have cardamon in the dough (best to check out the ones the locals are buying by the boxload). Many variations of the sweet, creamy goodness now exist and you’ll want to consume them fresh.

Almost all bakeries have difficulty keeping up with the demand and many offer pre-ordering, best to get out early and buy a box or three to enjoy throughout the day.

Alexela Concert Hall Tallinn’s world-class concert hall, complete with a stunning sound system and high-tech gadgetry.QD‑6, Estonia pst.

9, tel. +372 615 51 11, www.tallinnconcerthall.com.

There are several special events happening in Tallinn to celebrate Shrove Tuesday. If you’d like to spend it just like the old Estonians did, check out the Open Air Museum’s special event listing on page 13.

Estonia Concert Hall The premier venue for classical music and the home of national concert organiser Eesti Kontsert.QD‑6, Estonia pst.

4, tel. +372 614 77 65, www.concert.ee. Open 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. On Sundays open one hour be‑ fore scheduled concerts.

Saku Suurhall Famous as the venue for the 47th Eurovision Song Contest in 2002, this 7000-seat sports and concert arena hosts large concerts and major sporting events.QF‑8, Paldiski mnt. 104b, tel. +372 660 02 00, www.sakusuurhall.ee.

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Winter 2019/2020

15

View of Tallinn Old Town from Kohtuotsa viewing platform.

24/48 hours in Tallinn Tallinn is a great city and while we’d love it if you could stay a bit longer, we understand you might only be here for a quick weekend break. Whether you’re here for one day or two, to make the most of the little time you have, here’s a quick guide to the places we think you certainly won’t want to miss.

Day One Morning Though packed with tourists almost any time of year, especially in summer, Tallinn’s Old Town is a must-visit.

As one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe, many parts of the once 2.5km-long stone wall still stand, including 26 of its original 45 towers. Start your day with a hearty breakfast and taste traditional Estonian black bread at Rukis (review p.67).

Lühike Jalg

16 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Tallinn’s Old Town may seem like a neverending maze, but the area itself is not that large and is easy in just one morning. Walk up Viru Street (D-5 on the map) to Town Hall Square (C-5)and soak in the medieval charm.

The square is filled with terraces in summer and various events take place there all year long.

Next, follow Dunkri

Street to Lühike jalg (B-5) and walk up to Toompea, the upper part of the Old Town, where you’ll find some of the best views of the city from one of the many viewing platforms. The Estonian Parliament sits in what remains of Toompea Castle and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral across the street, with its onion domes offers a colourful contrast to the many Lutheran churches that spot the Old Town. Find the listings on p. 18-20.

Afternoon For lunch, head back down to the lower part of town and try Von Krahli Aed (p. 56) or Plant (p. 62) for something light and fresh. If you’re interested in history, the Estonian History Museum in the Great Guild Hall (p. 24) will give you an excellent overview of Estonia’s past. Continue down Pikk Street and past Fat Margaret’s Tower towards the water and the Seaplane Harbour (p.

28). This fascinating maritime museum is fun for visitors of all ages.

Evening Head to the hip and happening Telliskivi area (p.42), where you can peruse local design shops. Food lovers can also wander through the nearby Balti jaam market (p.94). There are plenty of dining options in the market (NB! Open until 19:00), Telliskivi Creative City or the nearby tallinn.inyourpocket.com

TIP - If you only have 6 hours in Tallinn, after lunch head to Vene Street and walk through St. Catherine’s Passage before leaving the Old Town. street food area, which you’ll recognise by the stacked container restaurants.

Our favourites are the brewpub Humalakoda (p. 43), with on-site brewery and a large terrace overtop of the market, Telliskivi Creative City or Frenchy (p. 43) in Telliskivi. If you’d like to add a bit of culture to your evening, why not take in a show (opera, ballet, concert) at the Estonia Theatre (p. 11).

view from above While Tallinn did once have the tallest building in the world, St Olaf’s Church, it’s certainly not known for its massive skyscrapers. But, don’t worry, there are still quite a few places you can climb to the top of and take in a stunning view of the city. Tallinn’s TV Tower (see Pirita section p.35), the Dome Church Tower (see p.19), Town Hall Tower (see p.20), Old Town viewing platforms (see p.19), SkyWheel of Tallinn ferris wheel (see p.22) and Radisson Blu Sky Hotel’s Lounge 24 (E-6, Rävala 3), all have their own entries in the ‘Sightseeing’ section.QC‑5.

Night Tallinn’s bustling nightlife has something to entertain every taste and budget. If it’s beer you’re after, visit the long-standing Beer House (p. 76) for an impressive selection. Great cocktails can be enjoyed on Sauna Street in places like Frank Underground (p. 78) or Sigmund Freud (p.78). If you’re still standing, end the night or begin the morning at Levist Väljas or Levikas (p. 75), as the locals call it, where many people head after everything else has closed. Turn to page 80 for a list of all of Tallinn’s nightclubs.

Day two Morning For breakfast, head to RØST (p. 70) in Rotermanni Quarter (E-1) for some of the best coffee in town. You won’t find a full breakfast here, but you will find some delicious, freshly-baked pastries and crusty loaves of sourdough. This growing area is filled with interesting shops and restaurants and is located between the port and the Old Town.

Afterwards, head to the quickly developing seaside area of Noblessner. Check out the many galleries, shops and restaurants, as well as the fascinating PROTO Invention Factory (read more on p.39 - 41). If handicrafts are more your thing, peruse the shops and studios in St Catharine’s passage (p. 20) in the Old Town.

Noblessner facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Afternoon For lunch, check out Platz (p. 37), or if you want to head back to the Old Town, Allee (p. 61) offers some good lunch options or Rae Meierei (p. 56) is an interesting choice for locally-made cheese.

Hop on the tram and head towards Kadriorg (M-7, p. 33 - 35). This ornamental park and palaces were built for Catherine, the wife of the Russian Tsar Swan Pond in Kadriorg Park Peter the Great.

One palace houses the Kadriorg Art Museum and the other, the President’s Office. Art lovers should certainly visit Kumu, Estonia’s National Art Museum.

Evening For dinner, visit the cosy NOP Café (p. 68) or the stylish Radio (p. 68) in Kadriorg, or head out toward Pirita to Kalev Yacht Club Restaurant (p. 35), for a lovely view over the marina.

Winter 2019/2020

17

Sightseeing

View of Toompea from Schnelli park.

Given its age (over 800 years old) and fascinating history, Tallinn is chalk-full of sights, museums and countless stories to help you pass the time rather interestingly. Here you’lll find the must-sees and a whole lot more.

Find the Tourist Information Point in the Basics section.

essential Old Town Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, what’s now the Old Town has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town.

Toompea Hill Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, what’s now the Old Town has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town.

Climb Pikk jalg and you’ll find yourself on Castle Square (Lossi plats), smack-dab between the seat of the Estonian government at Toompea Castle and the 19th-century 18 Tallinn In Your Pocket

symbol of the Tsar’s power in Estonia, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. You are standing at the birthplace of Tallinn, where the Knights of the Sword built a fortress in 1229.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral Toompea’s dominating landmark is the Russian Orthodox cathedral named for the duke who attacked southeastern Estonia and Pskov in the early 13th century.

Tsar Alexander III ordered the cathedral designed in 1894 by St. Petersburg master Mikhail Preobrazhensky and it was completed in 1900. According to legend, the cathedral was built on the grave of Estonian hero Kalev and has suffered structurally as a result.QA‑5, Lossi plats 10, tel. +372 644 34 84, www.orthodox.ee. Open 08:00-18:00. Services in Russian Mon - Fri 08:30; 17:00, Sat 08:30, Sun 09:30. Free admission.

Danish King’s Garden One of the most picturesque and secluded locations in Old Town, the Danish King’s Garden is filled with trees, benches, little nooks and a great view of the Niguliste Church spire. The Garden also has a dark side, as it’s featured in the centre of many famous ghost stories about the Maiden’s Tower, Marstal Tower and Short Leg Gate Tower. The best time to visit the garden is at night with the medieval walls at your back and the beautifully lit lower tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing - Essential Old Town town roofs providing ambience. Statues of three monks are illuminated. It also features two of Tallinn’s fortification towers, Neitsitorn (Maiden’s Tower) and Tallitorn (Marstal Tower). A replica of the 16th century Red Lion cannon was added to the garden in Spring 2018.QB‑5, Lühike jalg 9a.

this building, head behind it, down the opposite side of the hill.QA‑5, Lossi plats 1, tel. +372 631 63 45, www. riigikogu.ee/en/visit-us. English guided tour every Fri‑ day at 11:00. Group tours offered with other preferred languages from Monday through Thursdays, between 10:00 - 16:00 and Fridays 10:00 - 15:00. Call for details and bookings.

Viewing platforms The Kohtuotsa and Patkuli view platforms are usually the first place that tourists want to see when they visit Tallinn.

From here, sweeping views of the town, its red-tiled roofs,

Dome Church (Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin) What might be the oldest church in Estonia was founded in 1219 by the first wave of Danish forces. The Gothic exterior dates to the 14th century, but the interior was rebuilt after the 1684 fire. The Baroque pulpit (1686) and organ loft (1780) are worth a look. As you enter be sure to step on the tomb of Otto Johann Thuve, who asked that his grave be placed in this humbling location. Please be considerate and visit after the Sunday service. Depending on weather the tower’s viewing platform is open to the public 10:30 - 15:30, closed Mon. QA‑5, Toomkooli 6, tel. +372 644 41 40, www.eelk.ee/ tallinna.toom. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. Services in Estonian Sun 11:00. Organ music Sat 12:00. Admis‑ sion €2. Tower admission €5. Y Toompea Castle Built on the spot where the ancient Estonians’ wooden fortress stood before the 1219 Danish invasion, Tallinn’s castle served for seven centuries as the seat of power for the nation’s foreign masters. Now it houses the Riigikogu, Estonia’s parliament. On one corner of the castle you can see Pikk Hermann tower with the blue, black and white tricolour flag waving above it. It’s commonly recognised that whoever’s flag flies on top of this tower is the ruler of Estonia. The pink section you see in front is actually a baroque structure added in the 18th Century. For a more castlelike view of facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Lower Town Lower Town, the larger part of medieval Tallinn (or Reval as it was called back then), became a member of the Hanseatic League at the end of the 13th century. Goods from around the world came in through the port and were traded on the market on Town Hall Square. Reval operated autonomously from the rest of the Estonian territories right up until Tsarist Russian times. As in the rest of the country, the real movers and shakers in Reval society were the Baltic Germans, with Ethnic Estonians for most part second-class citizens. However, Estonian peasants from surrounding areas often escaped to the city, where they could eventually be considered free.

Holy Spirit Church This awe-inspiring, 13th-century church adjacent Town Hall Square sports an impressive Baroque tower as well as an ornate, outdoor clock that’s said to be one of the most photographed objects in Tallinn. The real treasure however is the intricate, wood-carved interior, which includes Baroque pews and a Renaissance pulpit (the oldest in Tallinn). Founded by the Order of the Holy Spirit, the church was always close to the people - It was the most active in providing alms to the sick and poor, and it was here that the first sermons were given in Estonian after the Reformation.QC‑4, Pühavaimu 2, tel. +372 646 44 30, www.eelk. ee/tallinna.puhavaimu. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00.

January 14 - March 15 open 12:00 - 14:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.

Services in English every Sun‑ day at 13:00, classical music hour Mon 18:00. Entrance fee €1.50. Y Winter 2019/2020

19

Sightseeing - Essential Old Town Niguliste Church - Museum Tallinn’s most famous work of art, a wall-sized fragment of Bernt Notke’s spooky, 15th-century masterpiece Dance Macabre, has its home in this 13th-century Gothic church-turned art museum. Destroyed during World War II and rebuilt during Soviet times, the church now houses a fascinating collection of medieval religious art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries, a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers, and a ‘silver chamber.’ The church is also known for its acoustics - organ concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00. Special exhibition on display until April 26, 2020 ‘The Virgin Mary: Woman, Mother, Queen’, focuses medieval and early modern art works from houses of worship in Estonia and Livonia.QB‑5, Niguliste 3, tel. +372 631 43 30, www. nigulistemuuseum.ekm.ee. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €6, reduced €5, family €12. Y St. Catherine’s Passage One of the prettiest little walkways in all of Old Town, the medieval St. Catherine’s passage connects Vene and Müürivahe streets. On the northern portion of the passage you can find what’s left of St. Catherine’s Church (hence the passage name) and various large, ancient tombstones that used to line the inside of the sanctuary. On the southern portion of the passage, you’ll find numerous artisan workshops, where you’ll even get to see them hard at work creating new items for you to buy. At any rate, we’re sure you’ll find Katarina Käik, a pretty nice hike.QC‑4, Katariina Käik.

St. Olaf’s Church St. Olaf’s 124m spire is a Tallinn landmark, and was the tallest building in Europe between 1549 and 1625.

An old legend claims that the church was built to attract more merchant ships to the town by a mysterious craftsman who promised to work for free if the townspeople discovered his name (Olev). In reality, 20 Tallinn In Your Pocket

the church took its name from the canonised Norwegian king, Olav Havaldsson. The first mention of the church dates to 1267, but the interior dates to 1840 and reflects that era’s Historicist bent. NB! Due to renovation works the church is open only during services. QC‑3, Lai 50, tel. +372 641 22 41, www.oleviste.ee. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00, 12:00, Thu 18:30 (prayer). Y Town Hall Pharmacy One of the oldest continuously running pharmacies in Europe is on Town Hall Square. No one knows exactly when it opened, but records show that the Raeapteek was already on its third owner in 1422. In medieval times patients could buy mummy juice and burnt bees for treatment, and healthy folks could even drop in for a glass of spiced wine. Keeping up with the times, the pharmacy sells the usual aspirin and condoms, but part of the shop is also a museum, displaying old medical instruments and other curiosities.QC‑4, Raekoja plats 11, tel. +372 58 87 57 01, www.raeapteek. ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. Free admission.

Town Hall Square As a medieval market and a modern meeting place, Town Hall Square, has been the heart of city life for eight centuries. With the Town Hall at your back, you can survey some of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture in Tallinn. Hunt for a circular stone in the centre of the square marked with a compass rose. From here, if you stretch, you can see the tops Tallinn’s five most famous spires.QC‑5, Raekoja plats.

Town Hall The jewel in the crown of Old Town is unquestionably the Town Hall, the centre of civic rule from the Middle Ages to the early 20th century. Though a previous town hall stood here at least as far back as 1322, the imposing Gothic building of today dates to 1404. Old Thomas, the weather vane who symbolises Tallinn, has been keeping watch since 1530. This time of year you need to call ahead to arrange for a glimpse of the vaulted halls and carved friezes of the historic interior.QC‑5, Raekoja plats 1, tel. +372 645 79 00, www. raekoda.tallinn.ee. Admission €5, reduced €3, family €10. Y tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing tallinn card If you’re trying pack the most into your time in Tallinn, consider picking up the city tourist office’s discount card, the Tallinn Card, good for 24hrs (€26), 48hrs (€39), or 72hrs (€47); from 2020 €29, €43 and €52, respectively. ​There is also Tallinn Card Plus which gets you a free entry to the hop-on hop-off buses and costs 24hrs (€36), 48hrs (€49), 72hrs (€58); from 2020 €40, €54 and €64, respectively. For kids 7 - 17, the price is reduced by about 50%. Cardholders will gain free admission to over 40 museums and sights in the city, unlimited use of public transport and all sorts of fun bonuses and freebies at restaurants, shops, etc. Look for the Y symbol in this guide for listed partners.

The card can be bought online and used in your mobile phone or you can buy a plastic card from major hotels as well as the airport, harbour and at the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre (Kullassepa 4). For more details, consult the website at www.tallinncard.ee.

Sightseeing tours City Train This is a happy, blue little tourist train that makes a 25-minute circuit through the streets of Old Town all year long. Departures are from Vana-Viru street, near Viru gates (D-5). Great fun for both kids and kids-at-heart. Ride costs €7 for adults and €5 for the kids.QC‑5, tel. +372 58 87 77 42.

EstAdventures This innovative outfit organises regular free walking tours such as a great Communist Tallinn tour and an excellent Old Town tour. Tours start in Tallinn Tourist Information Center.Qtel. +372 58 02 75 84, www.estadventures.ee.

Euroaudioguide This audio guide allows the user to take themselves on a tour at their leisure, using an iPod, a map and their own two feet. The narration provides loads of interesting facts and exciting tales from Tallinn’s past and it’s available at many major hotels throughout the city and the Tourist information centre. Available also via download to your own mobile device. See website for prices and details.Qtel. +372 59 02 31 97, www.euroaudioguide.com. Y Nordic Experience If you want to make the most of your limited time, and enjoy a personal private guided tour, check out ‘Nordic Experience’. Their friendly and entertaining guides can be booked on short notice and your tour can be tailored to suit your pace and interests. The following tour prices are for 2 people: 2hr ‘Tallinn Old Town Walking Tour’ €96, 2hr facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

‘Tallinn Panoramic Drive’ with guide and driver €180, 4hr ‘Tallinn Old Town and Kadriorg-Pirita Tour’ €280, 4hr ‘Paldiski and Countryside Tour’ €310, 10hr ’Helsinki Day Trip’ €450. See website for additional tours and info.QD‑5, Viru 21, tel. +372 59 00 51 51, www.nordicexperience.com.

Ronk Ronk Ghost and Folkore Tours Do you love ghost stories and folklore? Take a tour with Ronk Ronk to discover such things as ‘Oldest Ghost of Tallinn’ and ‘Hidden Stories of Down-town of Tallinn’. Minimum group size is 10 people for a private tour or look at their schedule for regular tours.Qtel. +372 53 90 21 77/+372 56 48 99 38, www.ronkronk.ee.

Tallinn Day Trip by Prangli Travel Prangli Travel offers professionally-guided private and group day trips from Tallinn. Different tours and activities in Tallinn, as well in its surroundings include the Old Town walking tour, Tallinn Top Attractions tour, Lahemaa National Park day trip, Prangli island day trip, bog-walking and sauna, tours to Jägala waterfall and many more. All day trips start conveniently from Tallinn. QB‑6, tel. +372 56 47 71 72, www.tallinndaytrip.com.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app Winter 2019/2020

21

Sightseeing Tallinn Official Hop-On Hop-Off City Tour Tallinn Red Buses tour uses bright red, London-style double-decker buses to take tourists to most attractive areas and sights throughout the city. Information for each location is provided in ten languages by audio guide, and riders can hop on and off at any stop. There is also an option to buy Bus & Museums package that includes 24 or 48 hour Tallinn City Tour ticket and 2 museum tickets of your own choice (check available museums at www.citytour.ee).

NB! Only one line (Orange Line) operates off-season from October until April 30. More information can be found on their website.QD‑4, Mere pst. in front of the souvenir market, tel. +372 53 01 56 23, www.citytour.ee. Infoline operates from Monday to Friday 10:00 - 18:00. 24-hour ticket €25; 48-hour ticket €28; 72-hour ticket €29. Y Tallinn Official Sightseeing Tour The classic general tour of Tallinn, the Official Sightseeing Tour, is made up of two parts: a bus tour of the city that covers downtown and some of the more interesting outer areas, and also a walking tour of Old Town. The whole affair takes 2.5 hours. The tour costs €30 and departure is 10:30 daily in front of Original Sokos Hotel Viru. See website for detailed information. From November through March prebooking is needed.QD‑5, Estonia pst. 3, tel. +372 610 86 16, www.travel-expert.eu.

Churches Although Tallinn is small, the amount of historic churches around the city is quite impressive. The styles and variety in architecture also vary quite a bit, from the predominate Lutheran to Orthodox and Catholic amongst others.

Tallinn’s most famous churches have already been listed in the Old Town section, but here are some others for readers with a special interest.

Church of the Transfiguration of Our Lord Originally belonging to St. Michael’s Convent of the Cistercian Order (located next door and now housing the Gustavus Adolphus School), the church was given to an Orthodox congregation in 1716. The church has retained its original form, save the addition of a Baroque spire in 1776 and exterior renovations in the early 1800s. The carved-wood iconostasis is one of the most impressive of its kind.QB‑4, Suur-Kloostri 14, tel. +372 646 40 03, www.platon.ee. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00.

22 Tallinn In Your Pocket

skywheel of tallinn See Tallinn from a new angle from the Skywheel! At 120 metres above sea level, you’ll have magnificent views of the city, the sea, Ülemiste Lake and the airport. Each weather-proof pod holds up to six people.

The pods are heated in winter and air-conditioned in summer. If you want to make it an extra special experience, you can book a 100€ Mumm VIP package (for up to 4 people) that includes a ride in a private Mumm VIP gondola, with leather armchairs, and a champagne cooler with a cold bottle of the worldfamous G.H. Mumm champagne or a non-alcoholic drink. QM‑8, Peterburi tee 2 (T1 Mall of Tallinn), tel. +372 656 51 15, www.SkywheelOfTallinn.ee. Open 10:00-22:00; Mon 12:00-22:00. Admission €10, fam‑ ily €28. Children up to 3 years old free of charge.

NB! Children under 12 must be accompanied by an adult. Y

Dominican Monastery Claustrum This 13th century monastery offers a glimpse into the lives of medieval monks. The east wing of the once three chambers remains where you can explore many rooms including a monk’s dormitory and prior’s living quarters. One of the most interesting spots may be the downstairs room that houses the ‘energy pillar’ purportedly the source of a mysterious power.QC‑4, Müürivahe 33, tel. +372 511 25 36, www.claustrum.eu. Open 10:00-17:30. Open from May through September, other times only for prearranged group bookings. Admission €3. Various programmes available, see website for details.

St. Charles the XI’s Church Built in pseudo-Romanesque style on the site of a 17thcentury wooden church, Kaarli is an excellent example of the use of one of Estonia’s greatest resources - limestone. In all, construction took 20 years (1862 - 1882), but painter Johann Köler completed Estonia’s largest mural here, Come to Me, in tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing just ten days. The church is also home to Estonia’s largest church organ.QA‑7, Toompuiestee 4, tel. +372 611 91 00, www.eelk.ee/tallinna.kaarli. Open Mon 11:00-14:00; Tue, Wed 14:00-18:00; Thu, Fri 11:00-14:00; Sun 09:0012:00; closed Sat. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00 and Mon 13:00. Classical music hour on Tue 17:00.

St. Michael’s Swedish Lutheran Church Originally built as a hospital in the 16th century, St. Michael’s also housed a spinning factory where ‘fallen women’ worked. Then it was transformed into a church for local Swedes. After serving as a weightlifting room under the Soviets, the church was returned in 1993 to the Swedish congregation, whose efforts to fund-raise for renovation of the church have paid off. Book in advance for museum tour.QB‑5, Rüütli 9, tel. +372 644 19 38, www. stmikael.ee. Services in Swedish every Sunday 12:00 and in Finnish every Sunday 10:00. In German every 2nd and 4th Sunday 15:00.

St. Nicholas’ Orthodox Church The present Classical building dates to the 1820s, but a Russian Orthodox church stood here in the early 1400s.

The young church houses many objects of artistic value predating it, including 16th-century icons.QC‑4, Vene 24, tel. +372 644 19 45, www.stnicolas.ee. Open 10:0017:00; Sun 07:30-15:00; Sat 08:00-19:00. Services in Rus‑ sian Fri 18:00, Sat 09:00, 17:00, Sun 10:00.

St. Peter and Paul’s Roman Catholic Church A relative newcomer as far as Tallinn’s houses of worship go, this pseudo-Gothic church was built in on the former refectory of the Dominican Monastery from 1841 - 1844.

Drop by to look at the interior. If the door is locked, go to the office and knock.QC‑4, Vene 18, tel. +372 644 63 67, www.katoliku.ee. Services in Estonian Mon - Fri 08:00, Mon - Wed & Fri 18:00, Sun 11:30; in Russian Sun 18:00; in Latin Sat 08:00; in Polish Thu 18:00, Sun 10:00; in En‑ glish Sat 18:00.

Art museums Located throughout the city, you’ll find some intriguing art museums to explore, some of which are located in Kadriorg. If you’re interested in learning more about Estonian art, KUMU, the Art Museum of Estonia is a good place to start, with the largest permanent collection.

Adamson-Eric Museum The permanent collection of works by the world-renowned artist Adamson-Eric (1902 - 1968) is housed in a 16th-century in Old Town. Affiliated with The Art Museum of Estonia. December 13 - March 1, 2020: The Transition: Siim-Tanel Annus - Performance and Pictures.QB‑5, Lühike jalg 3, tel. +372 644 58 38, www.adamson-eric. ekm.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €5, reduced €4, family €10. Joint tickets to all branches of the Art Museum of Estonia available. Y facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

fact #93 Chimney sweeps in Tallinn still wear 19th century uniforms. If you meet one, be sure to touch his brass buttons - legend has it that this brings good luck. This is also why the chimney sweep statue in front of the Savoy Boutique Hotel has such shiny buttons.

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design Works of Estonian applied art and intriguing temporary exhibitions are set off by irregular white walls. Until January 5, 2020: “The Weather Diaries“. Curators Cooper&Gorfer. Until January 5, 2020: “ROOM“. Krista Leesi.

QC‑4, Lai 17, tel. +372 627 46 00, www.etdm.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €6, reduced €3, family €10. Y Museum of Photography Back in the 14th century this building behind the Town Hall served as the town prison (as a visit to the cellar will show). Now it houses an extensive exhibition on Estonian photography, mainly devoted to the 1840 1940 period. Drop in to peruse the old Tallinn photos, recreated studio and antique cameras on display. Until January 27, 2020: Jalo Porkkala. Daguerreotypes.QC‑5, Raekoja 4/6, tel. +372 644 87 67, www.linnamuuseum. ee/fotomuuseum. Open 10:00-17:00; Thu 12:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Tue. Admission €4, reduced €2, family €8. Y Russian Museum This small museum on Pikk street is dedicated to Russian culture in Estonia. They usually feature a different Russian-Estonian artist every few months or a Russian artist who spent part of their life in Estonia. During the Tsarist era many famous Russian painters, artists and writers spent time in Estonia from Pushkin to Dostoyevsky - the list is large. This small museum is not exactly ‘English’ friendly but if you are fascinated by Russian culture and how it’s influenced Estonia, the €20 English-language guided tour might be worth it. Until January 30, 2020: School Class & Break Time: Russian-Language Education in Tallinn 1715 - 1944. QC‑4, Pikk 29a, tel. +372 660 41 40, www.linnamuuseum.ee/vemu. Open Wed 10:00-20:00; Thu, Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €4, reduced €3, family €8. Y Winter 2019/2020

23

Sightseeing l marks the spot

fact #94

Look for two long cobblestones that make the letter ‘L’ in the corner of Town Hall Square nearest the Raeapteek. This spot marks one of the more bizarre tales from Tallinn’s medieval history. In the late 1600s, so the story goes, a priest named Panicke walked into an inn and ordered an omelette. What he got was ‘hard as the sole of a shoe,’ so he sent it back. The next two that the waitress brought were even worse, and after an argument, the priest decided to make his point by killing the waitress with an axe.

For this unusually violent crime, the priest was swiftly hauled out to the square and beheaded, and the spot was marked for the convenience of future tourguides.

You won’t find a public pay phone in Estonia. While many countries still have them, pay phones have been obsolete in Estonia for years. Thanks to national (and affordable) Wi-Fi coverage, Estonians can enjoy staying connected.

tallinn’s founding legend Stick around Tallinn long enough and you’re bound to hear the name Kalev bandied about. There are countless Kalev sports teams and there’s even a Kalev brand of chocolate. But just who was this Kalev person?

Kalev is in fact a mythical giant from Tallinn’s distant past who is credited with founding the city. As the story goes, Kalev was sailing the seas looking for a spot to land and establish a kingdom. Eventually a prophecy led him to what is now Estonia’s capital. Upon Kalev’s death, his wife Linda was so stricken with grief that she over-did his burial mound, piling enough stones on his grave to form Toompea hill, which to this day looms over Old Town. When the contentious Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral was built on the hill at the beginning of the 20th century, a rumour was spread that Kalev’s ghost would haunt anyone who interfered with the construction. Nobody did.

Arguably an even more important figure in the Estonian tradition is Kalev’s son, Kalevipoeg. Tales of Kalevipoeg’s adventures were set down in the form of an epic poem of the same name by Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald and published in 1857. At the time Estonia was undergoing a literary and cultural awakening, and Kalevipoeg became both a focal point for national identity and a major step in founding an Estonian literary tradition.

24 Tallinn In Your Pocket

History museums Estonia’s fascinating history can be discovered in one of its many history museums. Starting in the Old Town, you can learn about 11,000 years of Estonia’s history at the Great Guild Hall, or the country’s haunting Soviet past at the KGB Prison Cells. Towards Pirita area you can find the Maarjamäe History Centre and futher on to Viimsi area the Estonian War Museum.

Estonian History Museum - Great Guild Hall Housed in the Great Guild Hall, this newly renovated museum’s permanent exhibition, entitled ‘Spirit of Survival’, covers 11,000 years of Estonia’s history with interactive displays and text in Estonian and English (audio-guides available in Russian and English). The building, built 1407 1410, is significant as the home of Tallinn’s union of wealthy merchants and is a sight worth visiting in its own right. As part of the renovations, several formal rooms and cellars have now been opened to the public for the first time.

Next to the museum, follow the Börsi Passage where Estonia’s history is set in the stone path (when it’s not covered in snow), from the pre-history, through the present-day.

The exhibition ‘I love you, Georg Ots’ is on display until May 31, 2020. The famous singer and actor Georg Ots (1920-1975) was adored for his talent and charm. He was highly regarded in Estonia, as well as in Russia and Finland.

The exhibition looks at the actor’s life and work through the eyes of his admirers and aims to unravel the meaning of Georg Ots for his contemporaries and his place in Estonian culture. QC‑4, Pikk 17, tel. +372 696 86 90, www. ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Ad‑ mission €8, reduced €6, family €16. Y

Estonian History Museum - Great Guild Hall

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Estonian History Museum - Maarjamäe History Centre Maarjamäe Palace is the most well-preserved, summer manor complex in Tallinn today. Built in 1874 and commissioned by Count Anatoly Orlov-Davydov from St. Petersburg, it has played many different roles during its long history. This palace has housed a posh restaurant and hotel, an Aviation School of the Republic of Estonia as well as the Soviet army, before being given new life as a museum in 1987. The permanent exhibition ‘My Free Country’ takes visitors on a 100-year journey, from the birth of the Republic of Estonia to modern day. Part of the Estonian History Museum, the Estonian Film Museum houses a permanent exhibition entitled ‘Take ONE’. The exhibition looks at the filmmaking process and lets you in on the secrets of filmmaking and filmmakers. Over the last decade, the museum has been collecting monuments from the Soviet period with the intention of making an outdoor exhibition that presents a specific period of local history. This exhibition is displayed behind Maarjamäe Palace and forms one part of the museum’s new park. The historic Maarjamäe Stables building is a venue for exhibitions, currently displaying ‘Sound of Freedom. The Story of Estonian Popular Music’.QN‑6, Pirita tee 56, tel. +372 696 86 00, www. ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Maarjamäe Palace or Film Museum admission €8, re‑ duced €6, family €16. Maarjamäe Stables admission €6, reduced €4, family €12. Entire centre admission €15, reduced €8, family €25. Y

The exhibition ‘Cold War’ reflects Estonian Forest Brothers’ movement during and after the WW II, military service of Estonian men in the Western countries and in the Soviet Army, the locations of Soviet troops and nuclear weapons in the territory of Estonia until 1994. A display of artillery guns and military vehicles is located 300 m from the museum. The machine pool of the heavy artillery display mainly dates back to the period from 1930 to 1960, and the majority of the items formed part of the armament of various countries in World War II and during the Cold War. Getting there: Take bus N°1A to Viimsi from the Viru Centre’s underground bus terminal (C-4) and get off at Viimsi vallamaja stop (should be about a 25min ride). Walk back to the main road and turn right, another 50m and it will be the large yellow building on your left.QO‑1, Mõisa tee 1, Viimsi, tel. +372 621 74 10, www.esm.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €3, reduced €2, family €5. Y

Estonian War Museum

Estonian History Museum - Maarjamäe History Centre

Estonian War Museum - General Laidoner Museum Housed in Viimsi Manor, the former summer residence of General Johan Laidoner, the Estonian War Museum is a great place to start if you’d like to learn more about this country’s history. Over hundreds of years, Estonia has had troops fighting on its soil from Denmark, Sweden, Germany, Poland, Russia and has even hosted a fair share of Viking battles. Inside you’ll find displays and info on the various wars Estonia has been involved in. There are several permanent exhibitions available for visit. The exhibition of WW I speaks about the destiny of Estonians who either conscripted or drafted voluntarily to the Russian army.

The period of WW II is told through the story of three men depicting the situation in Estonia under the occupations. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

KGB Prison Cells The unsuspecting facade of Pagari 1 in the Old Town hides a dark past that once was the KGB Prison Cells in Tallinn. The former KGB headquarters building has long been a symbol of the former Soviet oppression in Estonia.

In the basement, suspected enemies of the state were imprisoned in tiny cells, sometimes up to 18 people at a time, before they were interrogated, then either shot or sent to labour camps in Siberia. Visit a part of the dark cellar, KGB Prison Cells is now open for visitors.QC‑3, Pagari 1 (entrance on Pikk 59), tel. +372 668 02 50, www.vabamu.ee/kgb. Open 11:00-18:00. Closed on December 24 - 25. Admission €5, reduced €4, family €11. Joint ticket with Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom available. Y

KGB Prison Cells

Winter 2019/2020

25

Sightseeing OLD THOMAS One of Tallinn’s most recognised and legendary figures, the weathervane Vana Toomas (Old Thomas), can be seen guarding over Old Town from the top of the Town hall tower, rain or shine. Toomas wasn’t always as old as his current name suggests - you see, as a wee peasant lad he won an annual archery contest that was only reserved for the nobility. He expected to get into a fair amount of trouble for winning, as it had never been done by someone of his lowly stature, but his win would not be in ‘vain’ as he was invited to become an apprentice guard. The next few years would see much adventure for our young hero as he performed numerous heroic deeds during the Livonian war and went on to serve Tallinn well past the usual retirement age. At some point later the townsfolk noticed a similarity between the weathervane and their favorite soldier and decided to honor him by giving his name to the vane. He has since become a symbol of the city.QC-2.

Kiek in de Kök Fortifications Kiek in de Kök, Bastion Passages, the Carved Stone Museum, Maiden’s Tower, Marstal Tower and the Short Leg Gate Tower make up a massive museum complex over 300 metres long. Kiek in de Kök tower is an excellent introduction to the history of Tallinn’s defences. Built 1475 - 1481, the 45-metre, six-storey cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IV’s cannonballs embedded in its walls. And where did the tower get its name? Medieval soldiers joked that from its top, they could see right into the kitchens of the houses below - hence the odd name. Legends, secrets and underground tunnels, the Bastion Passages aren’t just for rats any more. Built in the 17th-century by the Swedes to help protect the city, these passages are a fascinating relic of times past. The Carved Stone Museum, housed in the same passages, displays decorative and interesting carved stone fragments, including columns and family crests dating back to the 15th century. Originally erected in 1370-73, the Maiden’s Tower has undergone extensive renovations and it’s been reconnected to the adjacent defence tower, the Marstal Tower. Maiden’s Tower features historical exhibits reflecting these fortifications and the stories that go along with them.QB‑6, Komandandi 2, tel. +372 644 66 86, www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Open 10:00-17:00; Thu 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission €14, reduced €8, family €28. Only towers or only pas‑ sages tickets also available. Y 26 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Tallinn City Museum By far, the most modern and complete introduction to Tallinn, City Museum was established in 1937 and celebrates its 80th anniversary this year. Appropriately built into a 14th-century merchant house, the Tallinn City Museum houses elaborate displays, with English captions, demonstrating various aspects of Tallinn life through the ages.

They also house a depository of porcelain and faience (fine tin-glazed pottery on a delicate pale buff earthenware structure). Until January 12, 2020: Collection & Story: Langebraun porcelain. Until May, 2021: From stronghold to town - the birth of a Danish town 800 years ago.QC‑4, Vene 17, tel. +372 615 51 80, www.linnamuuseum.ee/ linnamuuseum. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; Tue 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission €6, reduced €4, family €12. Y Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom In the period from 1941 to 1991, Estonia was occupied briefly by Nazi Germany and then for four and a half decades by the USSR. The history of this difficult period comes to life in this modern museum on the edge of Old Town. After extensive renovations, this now, state-of-the-art museum has reopened with a new permanent exhibition ‘Freedom Without Borders’, which looks at occupations, resistance, restoration, and freedom from five different perspectives: crimes against humanity, Estonians in the free world, life in Soviet Estonia, the restoration of independence, and finally - freedom. The exhibition can be self-explored or guided by an entertaining, e-tour guide, available in seven languages (Estonian, Russian, English, Finnish, German, French, Spanish). The fascinating exhibits are punctuated by personal possessions from those that escaped, lived through or were exiled to Siberia during the occupation – bringing a very human element to the situations they faced and how they coped with them. Their stories are also told here, often in their own words, which truly bring their experiences to life.

Vabamu also has a special exhibition tailored for children, where different stories are told for different age groups.

QA‑6, Toompea 8, tel. +372 668 02 50, www.vabamu.ee.

Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Closed on December 24 - 25. Admission €11, reduced €7, family €23. Joint ticket with KGB Prison Cells available. Y

Vabamu

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Museums When you’ve finished learning about Estonia’s history, there are many speciality museums to explore, many of which are located in the Old Town. Explore every topic, from food and health, to marzipan and music. You are sure to find something interesting for both kids and adults alike.

Children’s Museum Miiamilla This hands-on museum just for kids is located in the beautiful Kadriorg Park and is especially geared towards children between the ages of 3 and 11. The playful and often practical exhibits are constantly changing, with active themes so that the little ones are sure to be stimulated to the point of exhaustion - which we’re sure all parents are sure to appreciate.QM‑7, Koidula 21A, tel. +372 601 70 57, www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla. Open 12:0018:00; Sat, Sun 10.00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission €4, reduced €2, family €8. Y Estonian Health Museum This fascinating museum is filled with historic health related artefacts, interactive displays and hands-on exhibits. The top floor of the museum certainly contains some of the most interesting displays such as those concerning sexual health and reproduction, addictive substances and a special section highlighting various parasites and bacteria that live inside us or feed from us. Some of the exhibits are certainly a little creepy, but overall it’s quite an educational and thought-provoking experience. Be sure to check out the virtual hairstyle machine where you can send a photo to yourself via e-mail. Other highlights include the ‘dental’ room and collection of gallstones. Until August 30, 2020 a new temporary exhibition ‘I, super organism’ is on display.

QC‑4, Lai 30, tel. +372 641 18 86/(+372) 641 20 49, www.tervishoiumuuseum.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Wed 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission €8, re‑ duced €5, family €18. Y Estonian Maritime Museum Fat Margaret After two years of renovation, the Estonian Maritime Museum has finally reopened. Some pretty fabulous additions have been made to the fascinating new permanent exhibition, including a 700 year old shipwreck, something which you certainly won’t see anywhere else.

The shipwreck, otherwise known as the cog, includes almost 700 artefacts that were discovered with the wreck back in 2015 in Tallinn. With plenty of interactive parts to exhibition, both young and old can learn about Estonian seafaring from medieval to modern times. The museum is also accessible to those with disabilities, including those who are visually or hearing impaired. The Fat Margaret Tower is the first Old Town tower to have a lift. After a visit to the Estonian Maritime Museum, be sure to continue on to the Seaplane Harbour where you can learn about 20th century maritime equipment.QD‑3, facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Towering Tales of the Sea The Maritime museum and Visitor Centre of Fat Margaret an UNESCO World Heritage complex and TripAdvisor Traveller´s Choise, is NOW OPEN!

Euroopa Liit Euroopa Regionaalarengu Fond

Eesti tuleviku heaks

Winter 2019/2020

27

Sightseeing Pikk 70, tel. +372 620 05 50, www.paksmargareeta.ee.

Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €10, reduced €5, family €20. Children up to 8 years free of charge.

Joint ticket with Seaplane Harbour available. Y

Estonian Maritime Museum - Fat Margaret

Estonian Maritime Museum - Seaplane Harbour The highly interactive Seaplane Harbour, literally, has ‘tonnes’ of reasons why it’s the most popular museum in Estonia. This modern museum is housed in architecturally unique seaplane hangar, which includes structures that were part of the Peter the Great Naval Fortress between 1916-1917. The authentic submarine Lembit from the 1930s, the century-old steam-powered icebreaker Suur Tõll at the marina, a copy of Short 184 seaplane and many other life-sized exhibits are on display here. You’ll get a chance to take part in maritime history, as well as interact with many hands-on exhibits. Audio guide in 10 languages available.

Until January 19, 2020 a temporary exhibition by Dutch multimedia artist Saskia Boddeke, called ‘Sex & the Sea’, is on display. The exhibition is about sailors’ desire and yearning and, it also includes original Estonian historical material. Second temporary exhibition ‘1944 - THE GREAT ESCAPE’ is on display until June 30, 2020. It is an audio-visual exhibition about twists of fate and escaping across the sea, connecting intriguing stories of people who set sail from different parts of Estonia in a dash for freedom.QJ‑6, Vesilennuki 6, tel. +372 620 05 50/+372 620 05 45, www.seaplaneharbour. com. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Ticket €15, reduced €8, family €30. Children up to 8 years free of charge. Y

Estonian Maritime Museum - Seaplane Harbour

28 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Estonian Museum of Natural History All your favourite taxidermic Estonian, and a few foreign, animals (not to mention dried plants and molluscs) are on display in this renovated three-storey museum designed to introduce nature to entire family. The permanent exhibition ‘Estonian Mires’ gives a brief overview of the origin and life of the mires, and looks different types of bogs and their importance. Don’t miss the chance to embark on a virtual reality adventure and use their AR app to see nature like never before. English language audio guides are available and a small museum shop selling natural Estonian souvenirs is open on the first floor. Until Janu‑ ary 31, 2020 a temporary exhibition ‘Fathers and Sons’ is on display.QC‑3, Lai 29a, tel. +372 641 17 39, www. loodusmuuseum.ee. Open 10:00-17:00; Thu 10:0019:00; closed Mon. Admission €6, reduced €3, family €12. From 2020 admission €7, reduced €3, family €14; with VR experience €10, €6 and €22 respectively. A joint family ticket for Tallinn Zoo, Estonian Museum of Natu‑ ral History and Tallinn Botanic Garden is €35 and it may be used on separate days. Y

Estonian Museum of Natural History

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum After extensive renovations, the Estonian Theatre and Music Museum is open with a permanent exhibition ‘Stories and Songs’. Stories and songs play an important role in every culture; they unite people and preserve our history.

The museum tells the story of Estonian history using classic Estonian literature and songs, while at the same time looking at music and theatre in the context of late 19th century education, village life, Estonian independence in

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing 1918, Baltic German power, the church, the Soviet period, and childhood. ‘Stories and Songs’ received the Annual Award of Estonian Museums for Best Permanent Exhibition of 2017. There is also plenty of things to entertain the little ones, like instruments to play and costumes to try on.

On the top floor, there is also an attic where children can play until their parents delve into extensive information on the screens.QC‑6, Müürivahe 12, tel. +372 696 86 88, www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €6, reduced €3, family €12. English lan‑ guage tour available for €30. Y Hotel Viru and the KGB Museum For years, stories have been circulating about how one side of the first foreign owned and operated hotel in Tallinn during Soviet times was completely wired up so that the KGB could listen in on foreign and local guests’ conversations. When the iron curtain finally fell, those staffing the room destroyed or took with them what they could and high-tailed it back to ‘Mother Russia’.

Now the room is open to the public and exists exactly the way they left it, including an ashtray and Soviet-era cigarette butts. Sokos also fixed up another adjacent room which serves as a kind of time-capsule to Soviet hotel history. The museum, albeit small, is certainly worth a visit for both tourists and locals alike. Tours run every day and cost €11. Tours must be booked in advance.QE‑5, Viru väljak 4 (Original Sokos Hotel Viru), tel. +372 680 93 00, www.viru.ee/en/kgb_muuseum.

Kalev Marzipan Room Estonia’s famous candy factory operates a tiny museum and shop in the Old Town building where the company started back in the 19th century. Here you can find out all about the history of marzipan, first used as a medicine in the Middle Ages, as well as other interesting facts about this almond based sweet. You can take a look at the intricate, hand-painted marzipan creations, including some hundred-year-old moulds and if the timing is right, even take in some interesting stories from Otto Kubo who has worked at Kalev for 60 years.QC‑4, Pikk 16, tel. +372 646 41 92, www. kohvikmaiasmokk.ee/martsipanituba. Open 10:0021:00. Free admission. Y Museum of Estonian Architecture Tallinn’s architecture museum is located in the port area and housed in the restored Rotermann Salt Storage building, itself an architectural curiosity. The permanent exhibit on the main floor features architectural models from the museum’s collection. ‘SPACE IN MOTION: A Century of Estonian Architecture’ exhibition, acquaints visitors with the development of professional Estonian spatial and architectural culture. It encompasses the most important segments of 20th ­ century Estonian architectural history, as well as the more intriguing aspects of contemporary design. A second permanent exhibition ‘Explore Space!’ is geared toward children and young people. The exhibition teaches you how to facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

steven the seagull Estonia’s most photographed seagull lives in the Old Town on the Kohtuotsa viewing platform, where he has posed for hundreds of tourist photos. The seagull is so famous that in 2016 he got his own Instagram account. It may have started as an April Fool’s prank from the city’s tourist board, but this European Herring Gull became an instant star. If you want a photo with Steven, you’ll most likely find him at the Kohtuotsa or Patkuli viewing platforms. And while he may appear hungry, please don’t share your food with him.

Follow Steven Seagull @vanalinnakajakasQB‑4.

experience space and grasp the essence of architecture.

Located in the basement level of the museum, the exhibition offers different experiences for the senses, inviting everyone to smell and touch architecture and experience it with their whole body. January 10 - April 26, 2020: Miracles in Concrete. Structural Engineer August Komendant.QE‑3, Ahtri 2, tel. +372 625 70 00, www. arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €6, reduced €3, family €12. Y

Museum of Estonian Architecture

Museum of Icons Whether you’re an expert or novice in the world of icons, this museum will certainly fascinate. The exhibition includes over 300 Russian icons dating back as early as the 15th century. Spread out over four floors, visitors can see the progression in style and technique. There is also a wide selection of Old Believer texts, manuscripts, and Winter 2019/2020

29

Sightseeing religious engravings. English guided tours available.QC‑5, Vene 6 (Masters Courtyard), tel. +372 641 00 57, www. ikoonimuuseum.ee. Open by appointment only. Ad‑ mission €12.

NUKU Puppetry Museum Look behind the scenes of the fascinating world of puppetry at the NUKU Theatre and Museum. This interactive museum is fun and educational for the whole family. Visitors can try their hand at being an actor, director, artist, or stage master. Exhibitions feature masks, stage sets, costumes, props, and dolls of all shapes and sizes. Step 50 years back in time and watch old performances and meet the people who used to work at the Puppet Theatre using the Time Machine. Performances can be enjoyed in the Ferdinand Hall. QB‑4, Nunne 8, tel. +372 667 95 42, www.nuku.ee. Open 10:0018:00; closed Mon. NB! Check holiday season open‑ ing hours from museum’s website. Admission €8, re‑ duced €5, family €20. Booking of games, workshops and guided tours for groups should be done at least seven days in advance. Y

Tallinn Legends This interactive experience takes you on a trip through Tallinn’s past in the form of theatrical and interactive exhibits.

The journey involves nine rooms and nine different legends that have contributed to the folklore of this medieval city. We don’t want to spoil the fun so we won’t go in to detail but it’s a truly fun experience. Not recommended for younger guests, pregnant women or those suffering from epilepsy - you’ve been warned. Groups should also book in advance. See website for additional details and info.QC‑5, Kullassepa 7, tel. +372 510 74 53, www.tallinnlegends. com. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-19:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €16, reduced €12. Y Tallinn Museum of Orders of Knighthood For those that like history, mythology or even jewellery, make time for a stop in this museum for a unique collection of insignia from all over the world. You’ll see items like decorations of the Orders of the Garter, the Golden Fleece, Malta, Black Eagle and the Legion of Honour, as well as an impressive collection of state orders of Estonia.QC‑5, Kuninga 3, tel. +372 53 33 93 80, www. tallinnmuseum.com. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €9, reduced €5, family €20. Y

cat’s well

NUKU Puppetry Museum

fact #95 The capital, Tallinn, has had many names in the past - Kolõvan, Lindanise, Reval. The current name “Tallinn” is actually derived from the Estonian words “taani linnus,” meaning “Danish castle.”

30 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Before you complain about the chalky taste of Tallinn’s tap water, you might want to stop to consider what the town’s Medieval residents had to put up with. This wheel well on the corner of Rataskaevu and Dunkri in the Old Town was once one of the main sources of water for the Tallinn. According to legend, some of the locals got it into their heads that an evil water spirit lived in the well and threatened to make all the town’s wells run dry if it wasn’t given regular animal sacrifices. To keep the spirit happy, some cattle and sheep carcasses were thrown down the well, but the main victims were stray cats, who were rounded up and tossed, sometimes live, down the shaft. This practice was so common that the locals started calling this watering hole ‘Cat’s Well.’ In a sense, the sacrifices worked - the town’s wells never ran dry. But the practice of throwing animals down the well didn’t do much for the water quality, and the Cat’s Well had fallen into disuse by the mid 19th century.

Rest assured that nowadays Tallinn’s water is much safer to drink, and the cats of Old Town no longer live in fear.

QB‑5.

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Outdoor attractions While the summer might be the best time to be outdoors, that certainly doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the outside in winter. The Estonian Open Air Museum and the Tallinn Zoo are both located in Rocca al Mare area (check the map).

Estonian Open Air Museum Put on your hiking boots! This outdoor museum includes a whopping 70 buildings, mostly farm-related, sprawled out across 70ha of forest and land in Rocca al Mare, on the shore of the Kopli Gulf. There are even a couple of windmills, some sheep, pigs, chickens, and you can also take a ride on the horse-drawn waggon or sleigh - depending on the weather. Informative signs in Estonian, Russian, English and German guide you through 150 years of farming history.

Sample the pea soup and other traditional and hearty foods at the Kolu Inn (Kolu Kõrts). December 14 - 15: Christmas Village; January 4, 2020: Seto and Peipus-Russian Christmas Celebration; February 23 - 25, 2020: Shrove Tuesday events for families. Take bus N°21 or 21b from the Viru stop to the Rocca al Mare stop.QF‑7, Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, tel. +372 654 91 00/+372 654 91 01, www.evm.ee.

Open 10:00-17:00. Admission €8, reduced €6, family €16.

A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Mu‑ seum is €17 and it may be used on separate days. Y

Estonian Open Air Museum

Tallinn Zoo Tallinn Zoo boasts one of the most impressive collections of exotic species in Northern Europe. In addition to extensive outside exhibits including birds of prey, lynxes and grey seals, you can check out the Pachyderm house, which also features loads of snakes and a couple of pigmy hippos, or duck into the steamy, crocodile and chimp-filled Tropical House. The Zoo also features a Polarium that provides a spacious home for two polar bears. Environmental Education Centre and Children’s Zoo can be found near the west gate at Ehitajate tee 150. By public transport it is easiest to enter through the north gate at Paldiski tee 145, just take bus N°21, 21b, 22, 41, 41b or 42 from city centre to the Zoo stop.QG‑9, Paldiski mnt. 145, tel. +372 694 33 00, www. tallinnzoo.ee. Ticket office is open 09:00 - 15:00. Indoor expositions (Tropical house, Pachyderm house) 10:00 16:00, closed Mon. Children´s Zoo is open daily 10:00 - 17:00. Admission €5, reduced €3, family €13. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is €17, and it may be used on separate days. Y facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

town fortifications With 66 towers, medieval Tallinn was known as ‘one of the most fortified burgs in all Northern Europe’. Today 1.85km of the original city wall and 26 towers survive and several of them are open to the public.

Epping Tower The tower features an interactive exhibition that walks the visitor through the history and development of medieval defence systems. On display are items pertaining to the towers’ history, including suits of armour and complete maps of how the town looked during the 15th-century.

Make sure you climb all the way to the top, the view of Old Town is pretty cool.QC‑3, Laboratooriumi 31, tel. +372 601 30 01, www.epping.ee. From September through April open only on Saturdays and Sundays 11:00 - 16:00.

Admission €6, reduced €4. Y Fat Margaret’s Tower Originally constructed in the 14th century and arguably one of the top sights in the city, Paks Margareta as she is known to locals, is 82m in diameter and boasts 5m thick walls. At one point, Tallinn’s harbour was just outside the Great Coastal Gate and she certainly provided a formidable defence against any hostile forces trying enter the city here. The tower currently houses the Estonian Maritime Museum, see museum entry for details.QC‑3, Pikk 70. Y Hellemann Tower The three-storey tower, which stands adjacent Müürivahe street next to knit market, dates back to the 14th century and at different times was used as a prison and a weapons store. For small entrance fee you can have a look at the inside of the tower and have a chance to walk along a section of the original town wall to Munkadetagune Tower, where you’ll get a pigeons-eye view of Old Town.QD‑5, Müürivahe 48, www.tower.ee. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Tue. Admission €4. Y Nunne, Sauna and Kuldjala Towers Three of the oldest towers are open to the public, entrance at this spot. Tour hours may vary. Call ahead to make sure they are open.QB‑4, Väike-Kloostri 1, tel. +372 644 98 67, www.kodulinnamaja.ee. Open 11:00-16:00; closed Wed, Thu. Admission €2. Y Viru Gates The main entrance into Old Town is marked by these beautiful twin gate towers, which are only a fraction of a previous gate structure. The gate entrance was composed of a large tower, walls and the existing two towers. Unfortunately the larger inner gate towers were destroyed, but if you close your eyes we’re sure that you can picture what they would have looked like.QD‑5.

Winter 2019/2020

31

Sightseeing - Kadriorg & Pirita

Kadriorg Palace and Art Museum.

Kadriorg area Just a short westerly hike along Narva mnt. brings you to one of the most beautiful districts in all of Tallinn. Kadriorg is home to magnificent parks and gardens, the Presidential Palace and several art museums. Trams N°1 and 3 will also get you there. Once you’ve arrived, nearly everything you want to see is located conveniently on, or just next to, the same short stretch of Weizenbergi. The park also has its own info kiosk located at Weizenbergi 33 across from the Swan Pond. Please turn to page 62 for a list of eateries in the area.

Kadriorg Park A visit to Kadriorg Park is a must on any trip to Tallinn, no matter the time of year. The park was established in 1718 as part of the Kadriorg Palace estate, but has always been open to the public, attracting anyone to enjoy a casual stroll and ponder life. The most visited spot in the park is the beautifully renovated Swan Pond, an artificial, rectangular pond with a picturesque gazebo in the middle, which looks like something out of a Chekhov play. Uphill from here you’ll find another fountain area and then the Kumu art museum. Many of the palace’s auxiliary buildings are also nearby. The kitchen building, opposite the palace gates, houses the Mikkel Museum.

The Youth Park, a children’s playground, was first built in 1936-37 by the State Parks Agency and headed by Peeter Päts, brother of the Head of State Konstantin Päts.

Innovative for its time, it was a place where children could swim and play and learn. Though many of the original outbuildings and pools have been demolished over the years, the main building was renovated in 2009 and now houses the interactive children’s museum Miiamilla. ​​In 2011, a Japanese garden designed by Japan’s renowned landscape designer Masao Sone was added to the northeast corner of the park. The plants were carefully chosen to suit Estonia’s cold climate, including different 32 Tallinn In Your Pocket

cherry trees, rhododendrons, irises and orrises. The rhododendron garden is the largest of its kind in the region.

When the park was first established, one of the first projects was the construction of the Lower Garden and the canals in front of the palace. This complex area of the park was a maze of avenues, paths, gazebos, hedges and flower beds. After the death of Peter the Great in 1725, the work slowed down and the Lower Garden eventually grew into a semi-wild parkland. In 2012, the canal around the garden was rebuilt and the walkways by the channel were renovated in 2013-14.

The Upper Garden, in contrast, is a sort of extension of the interior of the palace to the outdoors. The great doors of the main hall led directly into the ornate garden. The oak tree, planted by King Gustav V during his visit in 1929 can still be seen in the Upper Garden. The current Baroque flower garden was restored according to 18th century drawings. Unfortunately the Mirage Pond, once located on the upper terrace was filled in the late 1930s during the construction of the President’s administrative building. A rosarium now sits in its place.

Rose Hill boasts 32 varieties of over 6000 roses. The roses have been picked to bloom twice a year and last until the first frost. It is the largest rosarium in Estonia. QL-7, www. kadriorupark.ee.

Swan pond

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing - Kadriorg & Pirita Kadriorg Palace and Art Museum Italian master architect Niccolo Michetti designed this magnificent, Northern Baroque palace in 1718 at the request of Russian Tsar Peter the Great, who intended to use it as a summer residence for the royal family. The emperor named the estate for his wife Catherine I (‘Catherine’ is ‘Kadri’ in Estonian), hence the name of the area. The palace is now home to the Kadriorg Art Museum. In addition to perusing the nation’s collection of foreign art, visitors get to see the mind-bogglingly ornate Great Hall, and the room upstairs that served as president’s office in the 1930s. Don’t miss the lavish manicured gardens, out back.

Until March 22, 2020: Ars Academica: The University of Tartu Art Collection.QM‑7, Weizenbergi 37, tel. +372 606 64 00, www.kadriorumuuseum.ekm.ee. Open 10:0018:00; Wed 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission €6.50, reduced €4.50, family €13. Joint tickets to all branches of the Art Museum of Estonia available. Y Presidential Palace For a few years during Estonia’s first period of independence (1918 - 1940), the Estonian head of state worked out of the Kadriorg Palace, but in 1938, this purpose-built presidential palace was opened next to it, just up the hill. The Presidential Palace’s style echoes the Kadriorg, albeit without quite so much flourish. Since the building once again serves as the President’s office and residence, it’s closed to visitors, but you can still wander into the parking area for a better view and, if your timing is lucky, you’ll see the honour guards marching out front.QM‑7, Weizenbergi 39.

Kadriorg Park Information Point Looking for a bit more info on the beautiful gardens at Kadriorg Park? Visit the information point to find out about upcoming events or buy a couple of postcards and other souvenirs to take home.QL‑7, Weizenbergi 33, tel. +372 601 57 83, www.kadriorupark.ee. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Tue, Mon. Kumu Winning the title ‘European Museum of the Year 2008’ , Estonia’s largest art museum makes its home in this enormous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cliff in Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying treasured works from Estonia’s past, and as a contemporary art gallery, showing the latest trends.

While here, be sure to explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori. Until Jan‑ uary 5, 2020: Maire Männik: Estonian Legend in Paris.

Until January 26, 2020: The Conqueror’s Eye: Lisa Reihana’s In Pursuit of Venus. Until March 2020: Do Come in, the Door is Open! Edith Karlson, Mary Reid Kelley and Eva Mustonen. Until April 2020: Anglers. Silvia Jõgever and Kadi Estland. December 6 - April 26, 2020: Art Museum of Estonia 100. Creating the Self: Emancipating Women in Estonian and Finnish Art. QM‑7, Weizen‑ bergi 34/Valge 1, tel. +372 602 60 00, www.kumu. ekm.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission €8, reduced €6, family €16. Joint tickets to all branches of the Art Museum of Estonia available. Y

The most significant and extensive collection of Medieval and Early Modern church art in Estonia.

EXHIBITION

The Virgin Mary: Woman, Mother, Queen 25.10.2019–26.04.2020 NIGULISTE MUSEUM Niguliste 3, Tallinn, Estonia niguliste.ekm.ee/en Opening hours: Wed–Sun 10am–5pm, Mon–Tue closed HERMEN RODE WORKSHOP. 1478–1481. RETABLE OF THE HIGH ALTAR OF ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH. DETAIL. ART MUSEUM OF ESTONIA

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Winter 2019/2020

33

Sightseeing - Kadriorg & Pirita Mikkel Museum Housed in the renovated kitchen building on the grounds of Kadriorg Palace and Park, the Mikkel Museum has one of Estonia’s most impressive private art collections. Johannes Mikkel donated his vast collection of European, Russian and Chinese paintings, prints, porcelain and icons to the Estonian Art Museum in 1994. Until March 1, 2020: Alfred Rõude: Collector with a Mission.QM‑7, Weizenbergi 28, tel. +372 601 58 44, www.mikkelimuuseum.ekm.ee.

Open 10:00-18:00; Wed 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Ad‑ mission €5, reduced €3.50, family €10. Joint tickets to all branches of the Art Museum of Estonia available. Y Seaside promenade by Pirita Road. Photo: Kadi-Liis Koppel, EAS

Peter the Great House Museum This humble little cottage’s claim to fame is that this was where Russian Tsar Peter the Great stayed during his visits to Tallinn before his Kadriorg Palace was complete. In fact it’s still filled with Peter’s furniture, portraits and other artefacts from his interesting life.QM‑7, Mäekalda 2, tel. +372 601 31 36, www.linnamuuseum.ee/peetrimaja. Open 10:00-17:00; Wed 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €4, reduced €3, family €8. Y

Peter the Great house museum

russalka monument This striking sculpture of an angel facing out into the sea horizon is a memorial to the 177 men of the Russalka, a Russian military ship that tragically sunk while en route to Helsinki in 1893. Created by famed Estonian sculptor A.H. Adamson, the monument has become a Tallinn landmark and a traditional spot for Russian couples to lay flowers on their wedding day.QG‑6, Across Narva mnt., by the shore.

Russalka statue

34 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Pirita A bit further out from Kadriorg is another district that provides an escape from the city’s bustle - Pirita. This historic district is actually within Tallinn city limits, only a 10 15 minute ride from the centre. When you get here though, you’ll never believe you were in Tallinn; suddenly you’re surrounded by lush forest, fresh air and, best of all - silence.

Getting here is simple. Take bus N°1, 1A, 8, 34A or 38 from the underground stop at the Viru Centre. For the beach, convent or river area, get off at the Pirita stop, which is the first one after you cross the river.

Maarjamäe War Memorial The pointed obelisk alongside the highway to Pirita Beach is part of the Maarjamäe War Memorial complex, a cement-filled park similar in its imposing style to other large complexes created in the USSR in the 1960s and 70s. The 35-metre obelisk was designed by Mart Port and executed by sculptor Lembit Toll. The memorial is made up of many parts: the spire, in memory of Russians who died in 1918, the concrete and iron figures honouring Soviet soldiers killed trying to fend off the Nazis in 1941, the graves of the crews of the Avtroil and Spartak minesweepers, grassy slopes and pathways, and a bronze sculpture of a flock of birds entitled “Perishing Seagulls”, a symbol of the two political powers of the time. Next to memorial is also the Maarjamäe German military cemetery.QN‑5, Pirita tee 78.

Memorial to the Victims of Communism This striking memorial is dedicated to all Estonian people who suffered under the terror inflicted by the Soviet Union. There are two parts to the memorial - ‘Journey’ and ‘Home Garden’. ‘Journey’ consists of name plaques of all the victims. Apple trees and honey bees are the symbols of the ‘Home Garden’, marking a place for the victims yet to be identified.

The sites of terror are also tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing - Kadriorg & Pirita linn. What remains today are the towering Gothic gable and walls of the main hall, as well as some surrounding foundations and cellars. Take bus N°1, 8, 34A or 38 from Viru väljak to the Pirita stop.QO‑4, Kloostri tee 9, tel. +372 58 17 35 60, www.piritaklooster.ee. Open 12:0016:00. Free entrance. Y

marked with informative texts. Estonia was occupied by the Soviet Union from June 17, 1940 to August 20, 1991.

More than 75,000 Estonians were murdered, imprisoned or deported over this period. Estonia lost one of every five persons from its population of slightly over one million.

QN‑5, Pirita tee 78, www.memoriaal.ee/en.

Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) Located directly between Kadriorg and Pirita, lies one of Estonia’s most important pieces of real estate, the Song Festival Grounds. In June of 1988 these grounds played host to over 100,000 Estonians who raised their collective voices in songs of freedom that would ultimately lead to Estonia regaining her independence after more than 50 years of Soviet rule. Singing has always had an important place in the hearts of Estonians and the first song festival was held in Tartu back in 1869. Currently a Song Festival happens every couple of years, and still plays a huge part of the national identity. When there isn’t a festival happening, the grounds host numerous other events and concerts. If you’d like to take a peek at the historic grounds and the massive bowl structure where the choirs sing, the park is open to the public without an admission fee during non-event times. At the top of the hill you will also see a large golden sculpture of Gustav Ernesaks, the famous conductor who also played a big role in the Singing Revolution.QM‑6, Narva mnt. 95, www.lauluvaljak.ee.

St. Bridget’s Convent ruins Rising up along the banks of the Pirita River, the spectacular ruins of this 15th-century convent make one of Tallinn’s more fascinating historic sights. Founded in 1407 by the Bridgetine Order, the convent was unique in that it housed both monks and nuns. The convent crumbled in a siege by Ivan the Terrible in 1577 and its stones were later carted off to construction projects throughout Tal-

Tallinn Olympic Yachting Centre The most prominent leftover of Pirita’s Olympic past is its Olympic Yachting Centre, still an active part of life in Pirita.

The imposing building itself, built for the 1980 Moscow Olympics, is a fascinating example of Soviet architecture.

Nearby you can also see the stand for the Olympic flame, as well as the Olympic rings. A visit to the complex is worthwhile, even if just to stroll along the water, inspect the yachts, and have lunch in one of the outdoor cafés that operates here. Of course, you can also park your yacht here, if you happened to bring it with you.QN‑4, Regati pst. 1, tel. (+372) 639 88 00, www.piritatop.ee.

TV Tower Officially opened on July 11th in 1980, the 314m tower was, and is, an imposing example of Soviet engineering.

From its observation deck at the 175m level, which is the highest in Northern Europe, you can see Finland on a clear day. The renovated tower features a museum and a swank restaurant ‘Teletorn’. One of the more exciting features include some pretty freaky floor-windows that you’re encouraged to jump on and you can take full advantage of ‘streaking skyward’ in the lightning-fast elevators. From December, a new virtual reality experience will open, where visitors can experience the spine-tingling adventure of walking along the edge of the tower’s viewing platform or flying around the tower. Until March 31, 2021, a new temporary exhibition ‘GENE-IUS’ looks at everything that makes up modern humans, like genes and DNA and genetic codes and more. Take bus N°34A or 38 from the Viru Keskus bus terminal on Narva mnt. to Teletorn stop. Avoid queues and book tickets in advance: https://pilet.teletorn.ee/teletorn.QQ‑4, Kloostrimetsa 58a, tel. +372 686 30 05, www.teletorn.ee. Open 10:00-18:00. Restaurant open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Ticket €13, reduced €7, family €27. Af‑ ter 19:00 restaurant admission €3. A joint ticket for the Tallinn Botanical Garden and TV Tower is €15. See website for further admission info. Y

Where to eat Kalev Yacht Club Restaurant A hidden gem in Tallinn, or well Pirita, but nevertheless, it’s worth a journey to the Kalevi Yacht Club. Not only is there a nice view over the marina, the food does not disappoint either. Simple, fresh cuisine that is inspired by European flavours. We quite liked the burger and the goat’s cheese salad, but you really can’t go wrong with anything on the menu.QN‑4, Pirita tee 17, tel. +372 623 91 58, www. jahtklubiresto.ee. Open 11:00-23:00. €€€. U­B­I­S­ L­6 facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Winter 2019/2020

35

(see area E-4 on the city map)

Rotermann Quarter If there’s one thing Tallinn does well, it’s the city’s ability to transform the old into something new. Rotermann Quarter is no exception. Conveniently wedged between the Old Town, Viru Square and the port area, Rotermann’s old 19th-century brick warehouses have been transformed into an evergrowing urban meeting place for gourmet food and posh shopping.

From industry to innovation Christian Abraham Rotermann, an artisan hatter who founded the merchant court “Chr. Rotermann”, built a department in Viru Square in 1849. The business quickly expanded and a whole complex of factories merged with the merchant court and became known as Rotermann Quarter. In addition to the department store, there was a grain elevator and flour mill, a five-storey barley mill, and salt storage, which is one of the most unique restored limestone structures in Estonia. It currently houses the Museum of Estonian Architecture.

During wartime, many of the buildings were dismantled, but in 1921, C.B. Rotermann’s son, Christian Ernst August Rotermann, took over the factories. The Quarter then housed a timber plant, paper mill, lumber mill, wool factory, raw linen processing plant, porcelain and decorative glass workshop, weaving workshop, refrigeration house, and the Rosen & Co Tallinn Vodka Factory, in addition to the flour and bread factories. These prosperous times did not last however; in 1930, a great fire, which took two weeks to put out, destroyed most of the company’s grain reserves.

36 Tallinn In Your Pocket

During the Soviet occupation, the Rotermann Quarter was reorganised and the factories were nationalised. At the beginning of the 1970s, with the construction of Viru Hotel, the dilapidated Quarter was under threat of being dismantled to allow for a wide pedestrian boulevard between the port area and the hotel. Luckily this plan was discarded and the area was saved.

Rotermann Quarter ca 1924

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

R14

R12

RED HOUSE

K HO US E

I

R18

BROWN HOUSE

GRAIN MILL

SEN

CHIMNEY SQUARE

BOILER PLANT

RO

POWER PLANT

R18

GOLDEN HOUSE

BL AC

GRAIN ELEVATO R

STALKER PASSAGE

STREET

P

R10

E

HOBUJAAMA

Health & beauty

SH O

MAIN SQUARE

R8

US GE HO

GRAIN ELEVATO R

O RK R’ S W

NEW FLOUR SHED

OR AN

R2

R8

EN TE

OLD FLOUR SHED

R6

Rotermann Quarter

CA RP

R

ROTERMANNI

R2

ROSENI

CC PLAZA CINEMA

WHITE HOUSE

Treat yourself to some of the many health and beauty services at Rotermann Quarter. Sigma Beauty Salon offers professional and personalised hair and nail services for the whole family. In addition to hair and nail services, Si Style Beauty Salon offers facial and body treatments, as well as depilation. And, SkinMed provides the latest in laser, facial and body procedures.

Featured venues eating & drinking

AHTRI

STREET

This year, Rotermann Quarter celebrates its 190th anniversary. Since the restoration of Estonia’s independence, the area has seen much change. Many of the old buildings have been renovated, as well as new buildings, which pay tribute to the area’s history, have been added to the Quarter. The streets of the area have been renamed and the main square is frequently used for festivals and outdoor events.

Platz Everything old is new again - or at least in the Rotermanni Quarter it is. It’s here you’ll find this stylish yet elegant eatery nestled into an old, industrial limestone building.

The artfully prepared cuisine, is an innovative and fresh fusion of European flavours using local ingredients whenever possible. The service is equally crisp but not too starchy. We quite enjoyed the duck breast and the crème brûlée on our last visit.QE‑4, Roseni 7, tel. +372 664 50 86, www.platz.ee. Open 11:30-23:00; Sun 11:30-22:00.

Shopping Rotermann Quarter houses many top-end brands and shops. Suitsupply, the place to shop for the fashionconscious man, has its flagship store in the Quarter, and also offers tailoring services. Tallinn Design House is the centre for local design, featuring clothing, jewellery, homewares, and art. And Harley Davidson offers its products and services from their stylish shop.

Platz

Pull and Bear features stylish and modern wear for boys and girls. BERSHKA’s collections are colourful and bright, offering something different from the rest for younger shoppers who wish to stand out from the crowd.

Stradivarius is aimed at those young women with a passion for fashion. And Springfield offers everything from clothing to footwear and accessories for both men and women.

Eating & drinking You certainly won’t go hungry with the array of great food in the Rotermann Quarter. Follow the scent of freshly baked bread and pastries to RØST, one of the few bakeries in Tallinn baking sourdough. Across the path, FLAMM serves up flammkuchen, alongside their extensive wine list. For those looking for a gourmet meal paired with a fine glass of wine, R14 is a good choice. Meatlovers will enjoy Pull, which serves up great steaks and other tasty grilled dishes. Platz, one of the Quarter’s longest-running restaurants, is cosy any time of day for a quick lunch or longer dinner. And finish the night with some live music at Chicago. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Restaurant Pull Opened by one of Estonia’s top grill masters Enn Tobreluts, Pull is another addition to the rapidly growing Rotermann area. The renovated warehouse space certainly fits the vibe of an upscale grill restaurant, with its sleek open kitchen. The menu has a little bit of everything, with some nice seafood dishes, vegetarian and vegan options, and of course great steaks.QE‑4, Rotermanni 2, tel. +372 53 82 50 00, www.resto.pull.ee/en/. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00.

Restaurant Pull

Winter 2019/2020

37

Rotermann Quarter health & beauty Si Style Beauty Salon This central beauty salon offers cosmetic procedures, waxing, relaxing treatments for the hands and feet, as well as hairdressing. The salon also sells a wonderful selection of unique jewellery.

Bookings can be also made via the website.QE‑4, Roseni 10, tel. +372 660 68 81, www.sistyle.ee.

Open 09:00-20:00.

Shopping Bershka Bershka offers the latest fashionware, accessories and footwear for adventurous young people.QE‑4, Rotermanni 12, tel. +372 664 50 05, www.bershka.com.

Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-18:00.

Kalev Chocolate Shop and Sweets Mastery Established in 1806, Kalev is Estonia’s oldest and most cherished chocolate factory. In the chocolate shop you will find a wide variety of traditional Kalev sweets, as well as exclusive and delicious hand-made chocolate candies and splendid marzipan figurines. Sweets Mastery located in the loft above the Kalev chocolate shop provides guests with the opportunity to create their own marzipan figurines or chocolate candies. What could make a better memory of your time in Tallinn than something sweet, created by your own hands. Workshops are available for a minimum of four guests and arrangements should be made ahead of time.

Prices vary depending on how many people are in your group.QE‑4, Roseni 7, tel. +372 54 52 58 29, www.kalev. eu. Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-18:00.

Kalev Chocolate Shop

Pull and Bear This brand is targeted at style-conscious youngsters, offering great quality for a reasonable price.QE‑4, Rotermanni 8, tel. +372 664 50 16, www.pullandbear. com. Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-18:00.

38 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Springfield Born in Europe in 1988, SPRINGFIELD is a casual-wear fashion brand aimed to worldwide real Man & Woman between 25-35 years with a strong personality and a unique sense of style. Essential items, fashion basics and smart collections are the brand’s DNA for everyday outfits. E‑4, Rotermanni 10, tel. +372 621 41 44, www. kkfashion.eu. Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-18:00.

Stradivarius Stradivarius offers and extensive range of fashion collections and accessories for a young, modern woman.QE‑4, Rotermanni 8, tel. +372 664 50 13, www.stradivarius.com. Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-18:00.

Tallinn Design House The Tallinn Design House showcases the best of Estonian design from fashion apparel, jewellery, handbags, footwear, organic cosmetics, ceramics to furniture, interior design accessories and interior lighting. The unique interactive showroom acts as a multifunctional art space, for presentations, events, and meetups.

QE‑4, Rotermanni 14, tel. +372 58 65 05 58, www. tallinndesignhouse.com. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:0018:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Y

Tallinn Design House

Women’secret Women’secret is the specialist brand in the intimates world - underwear, lingerie and swimwear for the contemporary woman, a woman who wants to feel always pretty, comfortable and sexy.QE‑4, Rotermanni 18, tel. +372 53 42 62 40, w w w. k k f a s h i o n . eu. Open 10:0020:00; Sun 11:0018:00. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Photo: Martin Dremljuga

Noblessner Just past the fascinating Seaplane Harbour, and Patarei Prison, the Noblessner Port area is quickly continuing the development of the seaside in Kalamaja.

The historic submarine shipyard is now home to new apartment blocks, offices, and a growing number of galleries, restaurants, bars, shops and events. (see area J-6 on the city map)

A fascinating history Noblessner dates back to the early 20th century, when Tsarist Russia and Peter the Great began building up their navy in anticipation of war. Though the original plans of a war harbour were never completed, a huge submarine shipyard, named after Emanuel Nobel, nephew of Alfred Nobel, and his business partner Arthur Lessner (hence Noblessner), was built.

last vessels built as recently as 2018. Since 2009, the Noblessner Marina and Noblessner Yacht Club and Sailing School (NYCS) have also operated in the area.

Today, Noblessner is flourishing, but it’s far from completion, with building and renovation work expected to continue until the end of the 2020s.

The shipyard was famous for its submarines, built for the Russian Empire, but when Estonia gained independence in 1918, Noblessner was declared bankrupt and split between several smaller companies, which began manufacturing smaller ships due to lack of larger orders.

During the Soviet period, Noblessner was renamed Factory Number 7 and was used to repair submarines and other ships damaged in World War II. After Estonia regained its independence in 1991, the shipyard remained active for a decade, with the facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Winter 2019/2020

39

Noblessner - the city’s new hotspot Shopping in Noblessner The impressive Shishi store is packed full of inspiring decor for the home. On a smaller, but no less stylish scale, Kalhoj sells Scandinavian-style kitchen and dining room accessories. Treat yourself to jewellery at Baltic Brilliant or pamper yourself at Biomarketi Ilu- ja Tervisetuba, which offers ecological manis, pedis, and facials.

Eating and drinking in Noblessner You’ll find something for every taste and budget at Noblessner, including one of Estonia’s top restaurants (according to the White Guide Nordic). 180° is run by Michelin-starred chef Matthias Diether, so you can expect no less than an unforgettable gastronomic experience (see full review on p.60). Craft beer enthusiasts will not want to miss a visit to Põhjala Tap Room (see p.45). For something quick and casual, head to Patarei Burger for a satisfying burger, or some of their tasty ‘loaded’ fries. Speaking of loaded, the bottom floor of the Kai Art Centre plays host to a plethora of eateries, bars and cafés. Here you can find the unique Japanese gastro bar Kampai owned and chefed by a master of Japanese cuisine - a sushi bar, grill and a replica street bar complete the experience. Another fantastic eatery located under the same roof is the Nordic-style LORE bistro. Delicious delights and hedonistic pleasures await at Kaif bar. From Thursday to Saturday evenings you can visit the casual gastro lounge Samovar at Staapli 3. And for those looking to stay out a bit later, head to Hall (Peetri 3), a nightclub for underground electronic music.

Art and culture in Noblessner Stop in for a good coffee and admire the art at Staapli Art Gallery. Kai Art Centre, located in the waterfront old factory building is home to a stunning exhibition space, auditorium, and several eateries. PROTO Invention Factory is where virtual reality brings history alive.

Featured venues Kai Art Centre Giving new life and purpose to one of the historic Noblessner, formerly secret, submarine and military ship building plant structures, Kai unites and promotes both local and international artists from all the various contemporary artistic disciplines. From artist-residency programs, special events, workshops, lectures, and a state-of-the-art cinema space to unique and thought provoking exhibits, Kai is an innovative institution. Worthy of visiting simply for the art and artistic endeavours - on the ground floor of the premises you’ll find four eateries/locales that will provide an artistic experience for your tummy. A truly special and unique addition to Tallinn’s burgeoning place art/culinary scene. QJ‑6, Peetri 12, www.kai.center. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. Exhibitions €6, reduced €3, family €10, cinema €5.

40 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Burgers so tasty, they are almost criminal

@ Staapli 3 -111

PROTO Invention Factory This Tsarist-era submarine factory in the revitalised Noblessner Port area, is the perfect backdrop for this science museum/virtual reality/invention theme park. With numerous, hands-on, VR goggles-on, mind-blowing main exhibits, numerous smaller attractions and more information than an average brain can handle - Proto is both educational, yet loads of fun, all packed into one very cool space. There’s truly something for every age group to enjoy. Both the young and the young-at-heart, will be inspired and thrilled by this Jules Verne, meets Da Vinci, meets “The Imaginarium of Doctor Parnassus”, Nikola Tesla-esque museum. Their excellent on-site café will also help replenish your mind and body throughout the adventure.QJ‑6, Peetri 10, tel. +372 627 66 61, www. prototehas.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-19:00.

Admission €12, reduced €8, family €28. Y

Proto Invention Factory

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Noblessner - the city’s new hotspot

A barely legal burger by Patarei Burger

Patarei Burger Named after the infamous ‘Battery’ prison just a bit down the road, this burger joint is just the place to grab an appy, fill your belly with one of their meat loaded brioche buns, or munch on some ‘loaded’ fries. While you’re here, you might as well try one of the local craft beers or signature cocktails to quench that traveller’s thirst. Vegetarian options can also be enjoyed here. QJ‑6, Staapli 3-111, tel. +372 56 63 69 00, www. patareiburger.ee. Wed, Thu 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00, closed Mon, Tue. €€.

P­B ­S ­V ­6 ­W Staapli 3 Art Gallery and Art Cafe A bit of a new ‘thing’ for Tallinn, and the brainchild of an expat from the UK (whom also has a similar concept gallery in Scotland), the Staapli 3 Art Gallery and Art Café is just that, yet so much more. Forget the snobby, ‘highbrow’ mentality of most ‘fine art’ institutions where the staff need to explain the artist’s motives, using metaphors that belong in a psychology text book. This is a commercial gallery, they offer works of art which appeal to every taste and budget, and the art speaks for itself. They also do custom framing, offer advice on where best to hang a piece, pour a decent cup of coffee or tea, offer a lovely selection of cakes and pastries which can be enjoyed, while surrounded by inspiring works of art. They want to fill your life with colour, and expose visitors to the power of art, whether for merely an hour or a lifetime. There truly is something for everyone, and both local as well as international artists are represented on the ‘happy’ walls here. QJ‑6, Staapli 3-114, tel. +372 660 22 11, www.staapliart.ee. Open 10:00-20:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00-20:00. P­B ­S ­6

The perfect hide-away from the grey autumn weather

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Winter 2019/2020

41

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artsy district

Kalamaja Just a short hop from the Balti jaam train station lies the eclectic and historic district of Kalamaja. The area’s name means ‘Fish House’, referring to its fishing past. Colourful wooden houses, funky shops, cool restaurants and bars, all add to the artsy/bohemian vibe of Kalamaja. (see area J-6/7 on the city map)

One of Tallinn’s last remaining ‘wooden house’ and antiquated industrial districts has seen somewhat of a trendy revival as of late, akin to what happened in the Soho districts of New York or London, albeit on a smaller scale. The revival, as with most cases in developed cities of the world, happened thanks to inexpensive real estate prices and the historic/industrial surroundings. First, the ‘hippies’, bohemians, artists and students set up shop and residence here. Now it seems that everyone wants a piece of the action and as a result real estate prices have gone through the roof over the last few years. What was once home to fishermen, sailors, dock-workers, shipbuilders and factory employees now houses boutiques, some great flea markets, high-brow eateries and a few cool nightspots for Tallinn’s hipsters and trend setters. There are in fact still quite a few industrial complexes and sea-oriented businesses operating in the area due to the proximity of the harbours and rail-lines that still skirt these districts.

Besides being home to some architectural and often derelict delights, Kalamaja has some interesting sights from the fascinating one-time fortress Patarei Prison (J/K-6, Kalaranna 2), the now world-famous Estonia Piano Factory (J-6, Kungla 41), the 1928 Jugenstil Kalma Sauna 42 Tallinn In Your Pocket

(A-2, Vana-Kalamaja 9a) and Kalmistu Park (J-6), formerly home to Tallinn’s oldest cemetery, which was unfortunately flattened by the Soviets in 1964 to make way for military complexes. Clues to the park’s original purpose exist only in the form of a plaque and a bell tower from the year 1780.

In terms of dining or shopping, one might expect that such an up-and-coming area would be on the pricey side - it’s not. Although quite trendy at the moment, most of the establishments in Kalamaja are much less expensive than those located in Old Town. Hopefully it will stay that way, at least for a little while.

Although there are places to eat and shop scattered throughout the district (with new ones opening up every month), the epicentre of the whole Kalamaja frenzy, including shops, boutiques, handi-crafters, a large flea market, eateries and much of the nightlife scene, seems to be headquartered in and around the old Telliskivi factory and warehouse complex - Telliskivi Loomelinnak (Telliskivi Creative City). This is probably your best place to start when visiting the district and it’s easily reachable, just around the corner from the far end of the Baltic Jaam market. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artsy district telliskivi creative city

art and entertainment

Telliskivi Creative City is a revamped complex of old industrial buildings (formerly the Baltic Railways factory) and a defining feature of the über-hip Kalamaja district, and has become a magnet for all kinds of creative enterprises and activities. Apart from housing some off-beat restaurants and bars, funky design shops, The Vaba Lava theatre space, antique shops and the like, it’s also a living, breathing space for innovation, with offices available in a mini-hub – the perfect home for any creative industry company or NGO. A packed schedule of art exhibits, concerts, street festivals and other cultural happenings keeps the spotlight on this up-and-coming little ‘city’ and makes sure the crowds keep coming back.QJ-7, Telliskivi 60A, info@ telliskivi.eu, www.telliskivi.eu/en/.

Fotografiska Tallinn Internationally renowned Fotografiska has opened its new location in Telliskivi Creative City. The gallery or meeting place is known for bringing the world’s best photography to its walls, and its Tallinn location is no exception. The aim of this urban meeting place is to redefine the traditional museum space, where visitors are invited to linger and become inspired. Fotografiska includes exhibition and event spaces, a music club, bar, café, gift shop, and restaurant. The restaurant, run by one of Estonia’s top chefs Peeter Pihel, is located on the sixth floor, offering panoramic views of the city. The restaurant’s concept is ‘sustainable pleasure’, which combines top quality dining using sustainable ingredients with a zero waste policy. Current exhibitions: November 14, 2019 - February 09, 2020 Mandy Barker ‘Sea of Artifacts’, December 06, 2019 - February 16, 2020 Vincent Peters ‘Light Within’, No‑ vember 29, 2019 - March 01, 2020 James Nachtwey ‘Memoria’. Please check their website for upcoming exhibitions.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/8, www.fotografiska. com/Tallinn. Open Mon 09:00-21:00; Tue, Wed, Thu 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:00-21:00.

Admission €14, reduced €10, family €28.

Where to eat Kalamaja has seen a boom in the number of restaurants in recent years. Here you’ll find everything from French to Mexican to modern Estonian bistros. Please refer to the Restaurants section for the explanation of the symbols.

Boheem One of the first of a whole line of trendy eateries in the area, this bohemian and rather inexpensive café, serves up some hearty breakfast choices, delightful crepes, salads and delicious desserts along with all your favourite caffeinated beverages. It’s even bohemianly located behind the Balti Jaam market, a great choice after you’ve done some treasure hunting there. Certainly not a ‘fast food’ spot - Boheem is the kind of place for lingering rather than a quick bite. Conveniently located just next door, they also run an artsy pizzeria where they offer up decent Italianstyle pizza at an affordable price.QJ‑7, Kopli 18, tel. +372 631 19 28, www.boheem.ee. Open 09:00-23:00; Sun, Sat 10:00-23:00. €. B­S­6­W F-Hoone Located in the Telliskivi industrial/warehouse complex and one of the first eateries to set up shop here, F-Hoone is one of those success stories that every wannabe restaurateur dreams of and we rather enjoy it. The food is fresh and usually quite inspired. The atmosphere is certainly industrial and chic, the service attentive and the prices are surprisingly low for the quality and portion size - especially the daily offers. Child-friendly with a decent little play area as well.

QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a, tel. +372 53 22 68 55, www.fhoone. ee. Open 09:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. €€. T­B­W­i Frenchy This eatery is indeed très French and actually quite stylish, as well as being an affordable option for a delicious and delightfully prepared meal. The menu changes somewhat frequently, but in general the classics always remain. The French onion soup was particularly tasty as were the Parifacebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

sian gnocchi in an excellent mushroom cream sauce. Naturally the French wines, beers and ciders are all quite well chosen, in fact the only thing we found to be missing were escargot and something containing truffles - which we assume is a seasonal thing.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60A (Telliskivi Creative City B building), tel. +372 56 04 82 62. Open 12:00-23:30; Mon 17:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; closed Sun. €€. P­B­S­6­W Humalakoda This modern brewpub sits atop the Balti jaam market and boasts one of the best terraces in town, with a brewery inside. With ample local and international brews on tap, and plenty of non-beer choices as well, Humalakoda is a great choice for a casual drink or meal. The menu covers all the pub classics, but with a bit of a twist. And brunch fans will enjoy a plentiful Sunday brunch from 11:00 - 17:00. QJ‑7, Kopli 1, tel. +372 699 99 60, www.humalakoda.ee.

Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. €€. P­X­T­U­ B­S­V­6­W Winter 2019/2020

43

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artsy district La Tabla For a unique Latin restaurant, of which there are very few in Tallinn, La Tabla is certainly worth a visit. The tortillas (both corn and wheat) are hand-made, the cuisine a fusion of various Central and South American traditions and the atmosphere is both colourful and cosy. Locals typically don’t like things as ‘caliente’ as those more familiar with this style of eatery, so if you want to spice it up a bit or have a special request - feel free to ask. Our quesadillas and tacos were superb.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60, tel. +372 51 94 33 27, www.latabla.ee. Open 11:30 - 22:00. Thu, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. €€. P­T ­U ­B ­I ­S ­V ­6 ­W

One of the many graffiti art pieces in Telliskivi area

Kärbes Kitchen&Bar Opened in the Vabalava theatre of the trendy Telliskivi area, Kärbes Kitchen & Bar is a welcome addition to the local dining scene. Enjoy daily lunch specials and an inventive, yet hearty menu.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60A (C1 building), tel. +372 600 81 11, www.karbes.ee. Mon, Tue 12:00 - 22:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, closed Sun. €€. B Kivi Paber Käärid Rock, Paper, Scissors despite having a quirky name, or perhaps because of it, is a multi-purpose joint which offers up some decent eats alongside some excellent beverages - including a great selection of craft beers and ciders.

Housed in a former industrial building, the style and atmosphere are hip and the staff friendly and helpful. The menu is 100% gluten-free and they offer a large selection of vegetarian, lactose and casein-free items as well. We’re pretty sure that much of the beer isn’t gluten-free though - so best stick to the ciders and cocktails if that happens to be an issue for you. Live music and events are also hosted here many weekend nights.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60a/7, tel. +372 600 36 26, www.kivipaber.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. €€. P­T­U­B­S­V­6­W Kolm Sibulat Brought to you by the same people over at popular Moon, this Kalamaja eatery located at the corner of Telliskivi and Paldiski road, is pretty much as far as you’d want to go from Old Town ... perhaps even a little further. The reason why we are listing the ‘Three Onions’ at all is because, quite simply - it has a great atmosphere, excellent food and a waiting list to get in. Before making the trek out here, be sure to call ahead for a reservation.QI‑7, Telliskivi 2, tel. +372 664 40 55, www.kolmsibulat.eu. Open 12:0023:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. P­T­B­S­L­6­W 44 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Lendav Taldrik Located in the black building towards the end of the Telliskivi Complex, the ‘Flying Saucer’ or ‘Plate’, depending on how you choose to interpret it, is certainly a welcome edition to the area. The interior style is quite excellent - with its rugged good looks, industrial sensibility and just the right amount of comfort, guests here will feel both stylish and at home. The cuisine is kind of an Asian-fusion blend, with definite Indian leanings, and all is certainly tasty to say the least. Decent vegetarian options also available.

Fast, friendly service is just a mango on the lassi - so to speak.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60A (E building), tel. +372 621 42 22, www.lendavtaldrik.com. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. €€. P­T­U­B­S­V­6­W ÜLO Brought to you by the same great minds behind Rataskaevu 16 and Pegasus, Ülo focuses mainly on vegan and vegetarian cuisine, but carnivores will find a few non -veggie items as well. While we loved our meal, beetroot risotto, a daily special, what truly sets Ülo apart from the rest is its friendly service. Don’t be surprised if you receive a little note on your napkin. QJ‑7, Kopli 16, tel. +372 605 00 52. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. P­B

kalamaja Nightlife Although currently known primarily for its great eateries, the Kalamaja district is increasingly becoming a nightspot as well and while still mostly popular with locals, is starting to see an influx of expats and tourists alike.

Although currently known primarily for its great eateries, the Kalamaja district is increasingly becoming a nightspot as well and while still mostly popular with locals, is starting to see an influx of expats and tourists alike.

Klubi HALL Just a little outside of the centre, this underground club is a ‘Mecca’ for those into hardcore techno. Located in the old Noblessner factory building, Hall features electronic music and visual arts, introducing Eastern European underdogs to the world. The crowd here really depends on the programme. Check their website or social media pages for upcoming events. QJ‑6, Peetri 6, www.hall.vision. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Kalamaja - Tallinn’s artsy district

Põhjala Tap Room Just a short jaunt from the centre, this pub, set in the revived Noblessner Port area is worth the trip. Ranked among the the top 100 breweries in the world, Põhjala has taken the the local craft beer scene by storm - and tours of the brewery can be booked in advance. The spacious tap room boasts an ever-changing selection of craft beers, ciders, and cocktails. Their bustling kitchen churns out some fantastic BBQ, alongside their own take on some classic American smokehouse fare.QJ‑6, Peetri 5, tel. +372 56 66 28 00, www. pohjalabeer.com/taproom. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-17:00; closed Mon. U­B­6­W Pudel Baar ‘Bottle Bar’ operates under the philosophy that a decent watering hole should stand on the foundation of great beers, ciders, and other quality beverages. Fourteen taps serve top quality ales - and many from local Estonian breweries. Given the name, you’ll also find loads of drinks to choose from in the fridges as well. This bar is located in the Telliskivi complex and in keeping with the industrial, atmosphere of the area, is stylish yet industrial in feel.

Great terrace in summer (voted one of Tallinn’s finest) for catching rays all day, and night. It can get super busy on weekends, but it’s totally worth a visit.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60A, tel. +372 58 66 44 96, www.pudel.ee. Open 16:00-24:00; Thu 16:00-01:00; Fri 16:00-02:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 14:00-24:00; closed Mon. U­B­I­S­6­W

Pudel Baar

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Estonia’s first dedicated craft beer bar

· Over 100 craft beers from the worlds best brewers · Full range of Estonian microbrews · Beer flights · English ciders and botanical soft drinks · Relaxed interior with outdoor terrace ·

Telliskivi 60A · (+372) 5866 4496

Kohvik Tops Kind of an artsy-trendy-underground place, Tops is certainly ‘tops’ to over 6,000, primarily locals - at least on Facebook.

Hosting a wide-variety of events ranging from live music to film nights and a whole host of other happenings, including something called ‘Femme Fatale’. This nightspot can truly get packed on the weekend nights and the wide-range of the people who hang out here certainly makes for an interesting time. They also offer a decent selection of lite-bites that happen to go well with drinks and the prices are incredibly decent for Tallinn.QA‑1, Soo 15, tel. +372 56 79 63 33.

Open 16:00-24:00; Thu 16:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00; closed Sun, Mon. X­E­L­6­W

St. Vitus Wanna see someone blush? Have an Estonian (or a Finn) translate ‘vitus’ for you. A slick, hipster pub approaching beer-hall dimensions, this friendly hangout has become a staple of the Telliskivi drinking scene. The massive chalkboard over the bar lists the craft beers on tap. If lost, ask for a recommendation or choose from one of the dozens of bottled imports on the menu. The pub food here is among the best in town.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 61b, tel. +372 655 53 54, www.vitus.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Mon 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

The Juniperium gin bar While you can book a tour at this award-winning distillery, you can also enjoy an evening at their elegant bar. Gin is what’s on the menu here, including some exceptional cocktails. Staff are very knowledgeable and friendly. QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60M, www.junimperium.ee. Open Wed, Thu 19:00-24:00; Fri 17:00-01:00; Sat 13:00-01:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Tiks Tiks is a wine shop and bar located in the trendy Kalamaja neighbourhood. Friendly and knowledgeable staff, along with reasonable prices make this a good stop for a glass of wine, or two on an evening out.

QJ‑7, Kopli 14, tel. +372 604 62 99. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; closed Sun, Mon. B­I­ L­6 ­W Winter 2019/2020

45

Leisure

Super Skypark - where the fun never ends! (see page 47)

Apart from the usual, boring sightseeing tours there are loads of other activities available in Tallinn. And as Tallinn has increasingly become a destination for families, we list plenty of things to do and see that will intrigue both young and old alike - for the tourist it can be a bit of a chore to figure out just where best to take the kids and what activities will keep them occupied.

Bowling & Billiards Hill Hill Billiard Located in the trendy Kalamaja/Telliskivi area, Hill Hill Billiard has become a favourite among locals. The spacious billiard hall offers plenty of entertainment with billiards, darts, snooker, pinball and air hockey, as well as a few other table games. Prices are reasonable and darts are free. There is a weekly HCP tournament on Mondays, with plenty of other events taking place each month. Check their Facebook page for more details.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 57, tel. +372 511 91 72. Open 14:00-24:00; Fri 14:00-03:00; Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

Kuulsaal This ultra-modern, ultra-cool, two-storey club offers the closest bowling to Old Town. Try their blacklight system for a cosmic effect. 12 lanes €16 - 26/hr. They also offer seven pool tables for €6 - 8 per hour.QD‑4, Mere pst. 6, tel. +372 661 66 82, www.kuulsaal.ee. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-02:00; Sat 10:00-02:00. Also at: Sõpruse pst. 15, Viimsi, tel. +372 605 11 01, viimsi@ kuulsaal.ee. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

www.inyourpocket.com 46 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Entertainment venues From golfing to bowling to shooting, we list a plethora of hands-on activities for the more adventurous tourists to enjoy. Some activities may even result in the loss of hands, but most of those types of adventures require that you sign a waiver and naturally Tallinn In Your Pocket cannot be held liable if you do lose a limb. For the latest fun in town, head to the magnificent Proto Invention Factory in Noblessner area, see our feature on page 39.

Energy Discovery Centre Based in a renovated, over 100-year-old power plant building just opposite Old Town, the Energy Discovery Centre is the place to discover science with a hands-on approach. The building houses unique historic devices and more than 130 hands-on exhibits dealing with themes such as electricity, magnetics nuclear energy, sound and optics. Perhaps one of the coolest exhibits will actually allow the visitor to experience ‘lighting’ - up close and personal, via the Tesla Coil.QC‑2, Põhja pst.

29, tel. +372 620 90 20, www.energiakeskus.ee. Open 10:00-19:00; Sun, Sat 11:00-19:00. Admission €9, re‑ duced €7, family €25. Y Escape Room Factory Various laser games, indoor adventure trail, escape room and rock-climbing. See website for details.QL‑8, Tartu mnt. 80j, tel. +372 510 31 62/(+372) 53 45 67 00, www. theescaperoom.ee. Open 12:00-23:00. €5/laser game.

1-2 people in escape room for 60 minutes €45.

Futuruum Probably the most fun you will ever have while looking slightly awkward ‘dancing’ or ‘flailing’ yours arms around in a small room. Put on the VR headset, grab the controllers tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Leisure and that small room becomes huge - a whole, brave new virtual world, featuring flying drones to destroy, zombies to shoot, and monsters to slay. Of course they also offer some great adventure games and ones that allow you to build and create your own worlds, or just have a little fun with art. Loads of games are available to play with friends, or on your own and there’s truly something for everyone.

QK‑7, Ahtri 9 (Nautica), tel. +372 56 17 72 22, www. futuruum.ee. Open 09:00-20:00.

Park Minigolf As the biggest minigolf centre in the Nordics, Park Minigolf offers indoor minigolf all year round. Choose between two courses: the Park Course and the Wild Wild West Saloon.

The Park Course has 16 holes and is fun for everyone. The Wild Wild West Saloon is meant for more advanced players. Take a break from shopping. Grab a putter and a beverage and play a quick round with your friends! QK‑7, Ahtri 9 (Nautica), tel. +372 632 00 30, www.parkminigolf.ee.

Open 10:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-22:00.

winter activities While it may be tempting to escape the cold by staying indoors, there’s plenty to keep you occupied outdoors in winter.

Sledding If there’s snow, the hill of the Song Festival Grounds offers one of Tallinn’s best sledding hills.

Schnelli Park, just outside of the Old Town also has a few short, but steep slopes to conquer. You’ll have to bring your own sled. And, the parks are not supervised, so sled at your own risk. skiing Did you know that you don’t even have to leave the city to find a ski trail? Tallinn has several options, including lit trails in Pirita (Rummu tee 3d, http://piritaspordikeskus. ee) and Nõmme (Külmallika 15, https://sportkeskus. ee). Ski equipment rental is available, as are lockers and saunas. Nõmme Snow Park (Vana-Mustamäe 16, www.nommelumepark.ee) offers downhill skiing and snowboarding, too, with lit slopes, as does Vimka Ski Resort (Lubja Street, www.vimkapark.ee) in Viimsi.

Park Minigolf

Super Skypark Located at the top of Tallinn’s newest shopping/lifestyle/ experience centre T1, Super Skypark is actually rather super. The largest entertainment facility of its kind in the region, and featuring the largest trampoline area in Europe – it’s a paradise for the young, and the young at heart.

Bumper cars, a 360° cinema, a 7D cinema, the SkyLab mini science centre, the unique in Europe - rooftop ferris wheel (see Sightseeing section), a relaxing 21+ chill-out lounge just for adults, a café, an eatery, 17 party rooms for kids’ birthday celebrations … your youngsters will forget all about their screens for a good while. Climbing, sliding, jumping, running, crawling, exploring and learning – did we mention this place is super? It’s also exceptionally easy to get to, taking tram N°4 to Ülemiste jaam stop either from the city center or the airport.

QM‑8, Peterburi tee 2 (T1 Mall of Tallinn), tel. +372 656 51 15, www.superskypark.ee. Open 10:00-22:00.

SkyLab and shop open 11:00 - 21:00. Daily pass €10, evening pass €5, family €28. Free entrance for up to two accompanying adults who don’t use the attrac‑ tions. SkyLab’s daily pass €5, family €18. See website for more admission info. Y facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Nõmme Snow Park Skiing and snowboarding abound at Tallinn’s only organised snow hill. In case they wouldn’t let you on the plane with your equipment, you’ll be able to rent skis and snowboards too. And in case you need a few lessons, they offer those too. After all, this is the very same place where Kelly Sildaru, Estonia’s top freestyle skier, started her career. Adult slope tickets cost between €12-22, children up until 12 years €8-20 depending on the day of the week. See website for details and rest of the prices.QVana-Mustamäe 16, tel. +372 56 15 91 60, www.nommelumepark.ee. Open 14:00-21:00; Sun, Sat 10:00-21:00.

Harju Street outdoor ice rink Uisuplats, an outdoor skating rink in Old Town, provides a perfect opportunity for slippery, winter fun.

There’s even a fast-food eatery onsite, which is open all year long. The rink is located adjacent Harju street, next to the Niguliste Church. Toilets and lockers on site. For more details, see website.QB‑5, Harju Street, tel. +372 56 24 67 39, www.uisuplats.ee.

Open 10:00-22:00. Operates from December 1 until March 31. Prices per hour are: children €5, adults €7.

Skate rental €3/hour. Using your own skates is also permitted. Y Winter 2019/2020

47

Leisure

NEWLY RENOVATED

KALEV SPA HOTEL & WATER PARK Aia 18/ Kanuti 2,10111 Tallinn www.kalevspa.ee kalevspa@kalevspa.ee

Tondi Shooting Range Offering the largest indoor shooting range in the Baltics, the team of experts at Ghost Tactics are more than happy to set you and your friends up with a shooting experience like no other. They also cater to stag events, tactical and self defence shooting courses, as well as shooting courses for those interested in taking things one step further by getting their gun licence. See website for the full range of packages, services and prices. You can get here by taxi, but alternately take bus numbers 5, 14, 18, or 36 from the Viru stop (C-3) and get off at the Kalev stop (J-3).QJ‑9, Pärnu mnt. 142a, tel. +372 55 58 54 16, www.laskmine.ee. Open 12:00-20:00.

Spa & Beauty You don’t have to go far to find pure relaxation and pampering in Tallinn. There are many great spas and salons right here in town, where you will find everything from beauty treatments to saunas. Go ahead, indulge a little.

Aqua Spa Take an afternoon off at the Aqua Spa! Located near the port, the spa offers different saunas (including steam saunas, a Finnish sauna and a hammam stone bench), a large indoor pool, children’s pool and an outdoor swimming pool open year round. Indulge in smoothies or cocktails at the pool bar. A private sauna can be booked for up to 12 people, along with a spacious lounge where you can enjoy drinks and snacks.QE‑2, Sadama 11a, tel. +372 630 48 Tallinn In Your Pocket

10 28, www.tallinkhotels.com/tallink-spa-conferencehotel/aquaspa. Open 10:00-22:00. Wellness centre open 08:00 - 20:00. Y Aurea Ayurveda Health Centre Aurea is an Ayurveda and massage studio located in the heart of the city where you can come to restore your body’s natural balance with over 20 different types of massage and 10 different types of therapy.QK‑7, Narva mnt.

7d, tel. +372 669 67 73, www.aurea.ee. Open 10:0019:00; closed Sat, Sun. Kalev Spa Health & Beauty Centre Pamper yourself at this brand new health and wellness centre, which offers a wide range of health and beauty services.

Their friendly, experienced and highly trained staff use only the best products and equipment. Choose from a long list of services and indulge in a treatment for your hands, feet, face, or whole body. The centre also offers a variety of rehabilitative and body-strengthening services, including appointments with nurses, localised cold and heat therapy, a salt chamber, light therapy, and ECGs.QD‑4, Aia 18, tel. +372 649 33 50, www.kalevspa.ee. Beauty salon is open Mon - Fri 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 17:00. Health Centre is open Mon - Fri 08:30 - 17:00.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Leisure Kalev Spa Water Park Kalev Spa has one of the largest indoor water parks in Estonia, as well as the only 50-meter pool in the city. The newly renovated water park includes four slides, children pools, a massage pool, and saunas. The Sauna-Oasis is the newest addition to the complex and is for adults only. Here you can relax in peace and quiet in different jacuzzis and saunas. The fitness centre offers different group workouts and a spacious gym with a view of the pool. You can also book a private sauna with Jacuzzi and private access to the water park (for up to 15 persons).QD‑4, Aia 18, tel. +372 649 33 70, www.kalevspa.ee/veekeskus. Open 06:4521:30; Sat, Sun 08:00-21:30. For a 3 hour visit, the price for adults €19, reduced €16 and a family ticket (2 adults plus up to 3 children) is €49. Daily and 1.5 hour admis‑ sion also available.

Massaažistaap A wide range of professional massage treatments for men, women and children. Prices starting from 30€/hour.

Please see website for full details and book your treatment ahead of time.QC‑5, Müürivahe 15, tel. +372 51 97 00 64, www.massaazistaap.ee. Open 10:00-20:00.

fact #96 At age 13, Kelly Sildaru became the youngest Winter X Games gold medalist, and the first person to ever win a medal at the games for Estonia.

Sildaru set further records at the 2017 Winter X Games in Norway when she became the first female to land a Switch 1260° Mute and a 1440° during a competition.

Massaažistaap

Mustamäe Elamus Spa This new spa and sauna complex offers plenty of options for relaxation, for both young and old. With 21 different saunas, different spa treatments, a 25-metre swimming pool, as well as kids pool, what more could you ask for.

Elamus Spa has three different types of admission: the swimming pass with traditional sauna access from 06:00 - 23:00 on weekdays and 09:00 - 23:00 at the weekends; the friends and family pass, which gets you access to 12 saunas and the pool; and the Spa 21+ pass, which is meant for those 18 and older and includes access to 21 saunas, the pool, and free towel and robe use. At the weekends, there’s a DJ and the spa is open until 02:00. (12:00 - 23:00 on weekdays).QG‑10, Akadeemia tee 30, tel. +372 650 20 00, www.elamusspa.ee. Open 10:00-23:00. Spa ad‑ mission €12-19 and SPA 21+ €25-35, swimming pool ad‑ mission €6-12, depending on the time of your visit. Y

Meriton Spa & Wellness Wellness Spa offers a wide range of treatments that will leave you relaxed and pampered, while the sports club provides fitness classes and advanced exercise equipment. Rejuvenate at Aqua & Sauna Center, home to 4 different saunas, 2 pools, 2 whirlpools and Kneipp pools.

QJ‑7, Paldsiki mnt. 4, tel. +372 628 82 20, www.parkinn. com/hotel-meriton-tallinn. Aqua & Sauna Center open 07:00 - 22:00, Wellness open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

Pin-up Tallinn This hair salon for men and women seems more like a curiosities shop than hairdresser, but offers a welcome change from the hundreds of seemingly similar salons throughout town. The wooden interior almost takes you back in time to a turn of the century barber shop, save of course for all the pin-up girls. Come in for a trim or discuss a new style altogether.QC‑4, Vaimu 1, tel. +372 58 08 81 21, www. pin-up.ee. Open 10:00-19:00; closed Sun. Also at: D-3, Müürivahe 36, tel. +372 56 07 00 09.

M-Room Barbershop For busy yet style-conscious men on the go, M-Room offers great value in a haircut and you don’t even need to make an appointment. Various membership options are available and complimentary beer or coffee are happily offered while you wait.QD‑5, Estonia pst. 5, tel. +372 602 05 67, www.mroom.com/estonia. Open 09:0020:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. Also at: B-1, Kopli 6, tel. (+372) 53 46 06 56. Open Tue - Fri 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Mon, Sun closed.

Zen SPA The Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn features a small Zen SPA with three stylish treatment rooms, including two double treatment rooms, two saunas and a party room with a Japanese pool. The spa concept combines ancient Asian Zen philosophy with contemporary comfort and modern technologies. The spa’s products are organic and 100% natural, and represent luxurious international eco-friendly brands. QJ‑8, Endla 23, tel. +372 666 48 00, www. kreutzwaldhotel.com. Open 09:00-20:00.

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Winter 2019/2020

49

Viru

Mü

Sa

ik Vä

un

a

üri

vah

e

rja

Ka

ur-

Su

Kuninga

eKa rja

Val li

1

ja

e vah

e rivah

rja

Mü

Ka e-

üri

a-P ost

i

3

Karjavärava square

Müü

Suu

r-K a

2

G.

Ots

a

NU

M

NT .

5

rja

PÄ R

Suur-Karja

4

ik Vä

Harju

Suur-Kar

Van

This area is located in section C-5 on the Old Town map.

Turn to page 92 for the full list of shops and details.

Map data © OpenStreetMap contribut

1

KARJA QUARTER LUXURY SHOPPING DISTRICT Valli 4 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SUN 11:00 - 17:00

2

WOMEN: Pärnu mnt.10 / Suur-Karja 23 NAISTE KAUPLUS: PÄRNU MNT.10/ SUUR-KARJA 23, TALLINN MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

3

MEN: Pärnu mnt.10 / Väike-Karja MEESTE KAUPLUS: PÄRNU MNT.10/ VÄIKE-KARJA 12 12, TALLINN MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

4

Harju 6 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

5

Pärnu mnt.12 / Suur-Karja 20 MON - FRI 10:00 - 19:00, SAT 11:00 - 17:00, SUN 11:00 - 16:00

Rangi Saun offers a truly authentic sauna experience. Photo: Ekvilibrist

Sauna culture Some people insist they’re part of an important health ritual, a way to keep clean, or an unbeatable hangover cure. For most Estonians, however, saunas represent a way to relax, spend time with family and friends, and to warm up after a day out in the bone-chilling extremes of the Nordic winter.

Though Estonia’s northern neighbour, Finland, is the undisputed sauna capital of the world (the very word ‘sauna’ in English is actually borrowed straight from the Finnish), the practice of confining steam or heat to a confined area for bathing purposes is found in a number of world cultures. Japanese, Native Americans and Russians all have their versions of steam and sweat baths.

The Estonian saun is thought to come from a rural sauna tradition that extends from the Baltic region to the Urals, so it’s no surprise that the development of sauna culture and practices here has a lot in common with that of Estonia’s neighbours. The aforementioned Finns will find few differences between their sauna designs and the ones in Estonia. Since the tradition dates back before written records were kept, there’s no way of telling how long it has been going on in the country.

The fact that there’s even a ‘Sauna’ street and a medieval ‘Sauna Tower’ in Tallinn’s Old Town is, however, a good indicator of the importance of saunas in centuries past.

52 Tallinn In Your Pocket

These days, while saunas are often still used for bathing by country folk, it’s much more common to find them used for de-stressing, for warming up, and for parties. Because advances in technology mean that saunas are no longer confined to separate buildings or little huts in the woods, a lot of hotels and sports clubs have one or more saunas built in. Some inventive people even manage to squeeze two-person saunas into their tiny, Soviet-era apartments. If you’re a first-time visitor to Tallinn, or just someone who’s curious about this important part of Estonian life, you’ll definitely want to make at least one sauna stop while you’re here.

Estonians are such big sauna fans that 10 years ago in Otepää, Estonia‘s Winter Capital, the town decided to hold a sauna competition, and it keeps growing each year. Every February 2nd, the European Sauna Marathon sees 4-person teams of crazy sauna freaks, attempting to get their sweat on in as many of the saunas (approx.

20 in and around Otepää) as possible in under 6 hours.

The minimum time spent in each sauna must be at least 3 minutes, and this year‘s event will feature over 800 participants from Europe and around the globe.

What follows are some tips to make your sauna experience more rewarding, and to point out some fascinating sauna possibilities that go way beyond what’s on offer in tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Estonian Sauna Culture the average hotel. The most important thing to remember, however, is that the sauna is a social experience, so get together with some Estonian friends, pack up some bottles of beer, and head to where the steam is!

A ‘how-to’ guide First, get naked. Bathing suits in saunas are a rarity. Most public saunas will be single-sex or have times for men and women, though families and groups of friends often go in mixed groups. That said, if you’re in a large bathhouse or health club, check the signs before running out naked into the common pool area and having your photo taken by the tabloid press or Tallinn In Your Pocket.

Once you’re ready, step into the sauna. It’s good to bring a towel with you to sit on. Choose your bench carefully. Heat rises, and the top bench, especially when the ceiling is low, can be real scorcher. Though experts say 60 - 70 °C is the optimal temperature for sweating, Estonians typically heat their saunas to 80 - 100°C, sometimes as high as 110°C. If you’re a novice, start with the lower bench.

After you’ve gotten used to the heat, it‘s time for leil. You take the dipper and scoop some of the water from the bucket and pour it over the stones. The effect of even a little water on the stones is instantaneous, so take it slow.

Under no circumstances should you pour the whole bucket of water onto the stones. Even if you survive the resulting heat, your companions will probably kill you.

Selected saunas Kalev Spa sauna oasis and vip sauna The adults-only Sauna Oasis located inside Kalev Spa Water Park offers a truly relaxing experience with several different saunas and a jacuzzi. Kalev’s VIP sauna can be booked separately for up to 15 people and features a hot-tub with jets and comfortable lounge to hang out in. Please see the listing on page 48 for more details. QD‑4, Aia 18, tel. +372 649 33 00, www.kalevspa.ee.

Kalev Spa

Kalma saun If you want to get that old-fashioned, communal, neighbourhood sauna feeling that uses the traditional method of wood heating, this is your best bet. Built in 1928, Kalma is Tallinn’s oldest public bath. There are men’s and women’s general baths (complete with swimming pool). Men €10 - 11/person, women €8.50 - 10/person. Two private saunas also available for rent by the hour.QA‑2, Vana-Kal‑ amaja 9a, tel. +372 627 18 11, www.kalmasaun.ee.

Open 11:00-22:00; Sun, Sat 10:00-23:00.

When you’re nice and sweaty, and comfortable with the temperature, you can take the viht or birch branches (sometimes provided, sometimes sold separately) and gently swat your back, torso and limbs. Better still, go the traditional route and let your sauna companion give you a hand.

This is a kind of massage, and will supposedly increase your circulation and make you perspire more, getting rid of all those nasty toxins.

The typical session, the time you sit in the sauna itself, lasts about ten minutes. By this time, you should be fairly well renched in your own perspiration, and ready to cool off. Of course, you should go at your own pace, and leave early if you feel dizzy or start to see mystical visions of Estonian folk dancers.

As in Finland, Estonians like to run out into the snow or jump in a cold lake after a sauna session, but lakes and private snow banks simply aren’t as available here, so many people skip this step. A shower is usually available to help you clean up. A post sauna drink and snack are a must. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Kalma Saun

Rangi saun This unique smoke sauna is the only traditional smoke sauna in Tallinn that you can actually take part in. Visits to the sauna are available upon pre-booking in advance. Head leili!QNõmme district, Tallinn, www.rangisaun.com.

Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel sauna This stylish and comfortable Finnish-style sauna can be reserved for up to 12 guests and upon request you can also access the pools and public saunas of the Aqua Spa. An hour session Monday to Friday from 08:00 - 16:00 costs €20, after 16:00 and on weekends it raises to €32.QE‑2, Sadama 11a, tel. +372 630 08 08, www.tallinkhotels.com/tallink-spaconference-hotel/private-sauna. Open 24hrs.

Winter 2019/2020

53

Restaurants

Dive into the culinary wilderness at FARM. In Tallinn it seems they grant a new restaurant licence every week and sometimes we do miss one, but we’ve tried our best to have an accurate list by print time. Although changing for the better, be aware that in many cases you’ll have to seat yourself, so don’t wait around like a dummy - just grab an available seat and you’ll eventually be brought a menu. In pubs, you’ll likely need to order and pay at the bar.

Service in the centre is nearly always English-speaking and foreign-language menus are the rule - although, the words may not always be spelled correctly. VAT (20%) is always included and a gratuity should never be added to the bill.

SYMBOL key T Child-friendly

J Old Town location

6 Pets allowed

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking area

S Take-away

V Home delivery

L Free parking

P Air-conditioning

W WiFi

Y Partner of Tallinn Card

price guide Based on the average price of a main course. €

Up to 7 euros

€€€ 14 - 19 euros

€€

8 - 13 euros

€€€€ Over 20 euros

54 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Estonian It used to be that if you walked into an Estonian restaurant in Tallinn, you could expect to find a lot of heavy pork dishes on the menu as well as the traditional fare of herring and potatoes, sauerkraut, etc. These days, however, there are two classes of ‘Estonian’ restaurants new Estonian cuisine and traditional. The new cuisine is usually a fusion of traditional and international cuisines along with the chef’s own vision of what Estonian cuisine should be. These eateries use primarily fresh, local and often organic ingredients wherever possible.

Both have their own merits - the traditional cuisine will leave your belly warm and full and the new will usually be more of a feast for your senses.

Farm Looking into the window of this eatery you might kind of wonder what on earth is happening here. A table all set up with a wild boar and wolf eating dinner enjoying wine, they are surrounded by their friends Mrs Fox and Mr Raven. Certainly a scene not likely witnessed before - but also something that begs you to at least have a peek inside. The elaborate restaurant is all decked out with bird-cage chandeliers and rustic elements mixed with a certain amount of elegance. The open kitchen allows you to see the chefs at work preparing some delicious meals - add to it some great artisan breads and their own craft-beers and the whole thing comes together quite nicely.QC‑5, Müürivahe 27B, tel. +372 517 32 61, www.restaurant.farm. Open 14:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. €€€. P­U ­B­ I­S ­J ­W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Kaerajaan Named after a popular national folk dance, this is an Estonian-themed restaurant with a modern twist. It consists of a café on the main floor and a slightly more formal restaurant in the top floor. You won’t find any of the traditional, national dishes on the menu, however you will be pleased to discover many Estonian ingredients sporting an haute cuisine style. Check out the upstairs toilet for a truly architectural experience.QC‑5, Raekoja plats 17, tel. +372 615 54 00, www.kaerajaan.ee. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €€€. P­T ­B ­S ­J­ 6­W

Open Su-Th 11:00-22:00 Fr-Sat 12-23:00 Raekoja plats 17

Kuldse Notsu KÕrts Heaven for pork-lovers, at the ‘Golden Piglet Inn’ the cooks even put bacon in the bread! This country-style Estonian restaurant undeniably caters to the tourist crowd, but we really liked the bright, folk-art motif. The menu is much more interesting than the heavy food however, offering such dishes as the ‘Estonian sausage feast for two’… get your minds out of the gutter ladies, or the ever popular ‘crisp pork knuckle with sauerkraut.’

Despite the carnivorous theme, a selection of vegetarian dishes are available for those herbivores out there.QB‑5, Dunkri 8, tel. +372 628 65 67, www.kuldnenotsu.ee.

Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. B­I ­S ­J ­6 ­W Stenhus Restaurant Schlössle Hotel’s restaurant is a combination of old world elegance and modern style, rolled into an Estonian dining experience. The menu focuses on the perfect balance between food and fine art, and the creative flair of head chef Timofei Monahhov truly shines. With produce and foods, up to 90% of which are farmed, fished or to be found throughout Estonia or her waters - the Stenhus team of culinary artists are able to turn the most mundane or misunderstood ingredients into delicious, edible works of art. The results are a feast for the eyes and the palate. Be sure to explore the divine courtyard - weather, and season permitting.QC‑4, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. +372 699 77 80, www.stenhusrestaurant.ee. Open 12:00-23:00. Break‑ fast 07:00 - 10:30. €€€. P­X­B­I­S­J­6­W­i

(Town Hall Square 17)

+372 615 5400

www.kaerajaan.ee

Vanaema Juures True to its name, Grandma’s Place treats its guests to a warm welcome and a cosy dining room filled with antiques. Take heart that there’s no sign of the big, bad wolf here, though wild boar is occasionally on the menu. Elk roast is a regular feature and Grandmother’s Sunday roast come highly recommended. Reservations are a good idea for Friday and Saturday evenings.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. +372 626 90 80, www.vonkrahl.ee/vanaemajuures/.

Open 12:00-22:00. €€. T­B­S­J

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Pühavaimu 13/15, 10123 Tallinn Old Town (T) +372 699 7780 • restaurant@schlossle-hotels.com www.stenhusrestaurant.ee

Winter 2019/2020

55

Restaurants

Pikk 71 / Tolli 2 +372 630 63 55 www.soerestoran.ee

New Nordic Being a northern country, the Estonian restaurant scene has certainly been influenced by the New Nordic and Nordic Islands’ cuisine. Local ingredients are used, when possible, but each menu reflects the chef’s own vision and interpretation of the movement, leaving the diner with a true feast for the senses.

Rae Meierei Located inside and upstairs of the Beer House (see World Cuisine category, p.67) is where you’ll find Rae Meierei. (In fact, we got a little lost looking for it). But, once you’ve found it, you’ll be glad you did. The restaurant specialises in fresh cow’s milk cheeses like mozzarella, ricotta, stracciatella, and burrata, which are all produced on-site in their own dairy. The main dining hall is stunning, with multi-levels and a large open kitchen stretching one side of the room and bar that looks a bit like a experimental laboratory on the other. In addition to their lovely cheese, we quite liked the spring chicken.QB‑5, Dunkri 5, tel. +372 53 43 83 66, www.raemeierei.ee. Open Wed, Thu 17:00-24:00; Fri 15:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:0023:00; closed Mon, Tue. €€€. P­B­J­W Restaurant 100 Located in Centennial Hotel, 100 is headed up by one of Estonia’s acclaimed chefs and this is evident by the artistically pleasing and tasty offerings that come out of the kitchen.

Locally sourced ingredients dominate here, but the style and flair are decidedly international with just the right amount of refined, Nordic flare. Their daily business lunch specials are a cut above the average while not breaking the bank, and they also offer a great little lounge menu.QJ‑8, Endla 15, tel. +372 647 47 33, www.resto100.ee. Open 07:00-22:00; Sun, Sat 07:30-22:30. €€€. P­U­I­S­6­W­ SÖE Set in the historic Three Sisters Hotel, this fine-dining establishment brings Nordic/Nouveau Estonian cuisine to the next level. Owned and operated by a decorated young chef, and a high energy, well-credentialed sparkle of a human being their combined attention to detail and commitment to perfection is admirable. ‘Coal’ offers up wonderfully prepared cuisine inspired by the Estonian nature, the fresh local ingre56 Tallinn In Your Pocket

dients are truly satisfying and appreciated. Head chef Pavel Gurjanov, his excellent team, their love for food, and all the elements that go into executing and presenting their masterful dishes is quite evident. The ambience is also befittingly elegant - modern and bright, and leaves guests feeling comfortable dressed to the nines, or dressed down. Eating here is not so much about satisfying ones hunger, it’s an adventure for all five senses.QC‑3, Pikk 71/ Tolli 2, tel. +372 630 63 55, www. soerestoran.ee. Open 12:00-15:00;17:00-22:30. Breakfast 07:00 - 12:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. €€€€. P­U­B­J­W­

SÖE

Sume Sume is headed up by chef Heidi Pinnak, who represented Estonia at the 2013 Bocuse d’Or cooking competition. Her menu features classic European dishes to which she’s added her own little twist. During the week, enjoy a lunch menu that changes weekly, as well as a nightly dinner buffet, and Sunday brunch. QE‑5, Laikmaa 5, tel. +372 630 08 18, www.tallinkhotels.com/et/tallink-city-hotel/restaurantsume. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€. P­T­U­S­W­i Von Krahli Aed If you’re looking to please many diners with diverse diets, Von Krahli Aed is the place to come. Located in a cosy and romantic medieval building in the Old Town, the “Garden” is a not a vegetarian restaurant, but the focus of the menu is certainly on vegetables. All dishes can be ordered with or without meat. Ingredients are local and organic, including the wines. Service is always friendly and attentive. We’ll certainly be back again.QB‑5, Ra‑ taskaevu 8, tel. +372 58 59 38 39, www.vonkrahl.ee/ en/von-krahli-aed/. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:0023:00. €€. B­S­V­J­6­W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants American Route 13 Grill This American-style restaurant/night-spot is certainly aiming to become the best eatery in its class in Tallinn. We’ve actually had some good conversations with the owners and they’re quite committed to getting everything just right in order to make this the best ‘American-style’ locale in Estonia. From what we’ve experienced so far, ‘Route 13’ just might become a lucky number. We quite enjoyed their burger last time we stopped by and the wings had just the right amount of bite.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 13, tel. +372 680 76 17. Open 11:00-05:00. €€. X­B­J­W Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina Beer ads, steer horns, cactus and rowdy conversation - this bar screams ‘Texas’ so loud you might think you’ve walked into one of those old roadhouse movies. Thankfully the ambience is more rock and blues than twangy two-step.

The long menu is mostly U.S. -style Tex-Mex (nachos, quesadillas, etc) with other things like hot wings and a decent selection of vegetarian items thrown in. Not all dishes are as authentic as the Alamo, but enough are to make this a decent destination for homesick Yanks.QC‑4, Pikk 43, tel. +372 631 17 55, www.texas.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€. B­I­S­J­6­W

Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina

Asian Sometimes you just want a bit of spice! Tallinn’s palate has really come a long way and here you’ll find a great mix ofChinese, Indian, Thai, and everything in between.

DimSum Food Club The DimSum Food Club serves up a few versions of this popular Chinese speciality. They do get a bit creative with their dumplings, many of which aren’t exactly Chinese in origin, mainly due to the various fillings in their dumplings - however, the selection we tried were quite tasty. This is actually more of an Asian fusion type place (which isn’t at all a bad thing), also serving miso soup, spring rolls, bao burgers, kimchi, wakame salad etc. QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris), tel. +372 55 54 45 60. Open 11:00-22:00. €€.

P­U­S­6­W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Dao Hua A hidden gem among Tallinn’s few authentic Chinese restaurants. The quality is excellent and the dishes, primarily from the Sichuan province, were authentic and extremely tasty. As they cater a lot to the local market, they tend to lessen the spice a little on some of the dishes which call for more heat. Just let them know, they’ll be happy to liven them up a bit for you, and or, offer you some authentic hot-sauces so you can create your own inferno level. We’ll certainly be visiting them again.QK‑8, Mardi 1, tel. +372 660 60 17, www.daohua.ee. Open Sun, Tue, Wed 12:0020:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00; closed Mon. €€.

P­T ­S ­W Gotsu, Kyuho´s kitchen This little cellar place is a small hike from the centre, but for an authentic Korean experience it’s pretty much your best bet in Tallinn. Besides the main eating area they also have a traditional Korean dining room where guests are asked to remove their shoes when entering, (clean socks and fresh smelling feet would be highly recommended). Here you’ll be able to enjoy their succulent dumplings while on your knees. Dishes tend to be on the spicy side so please make your preference known when ordering.QJ‑8, Pärnu mnt. 62a, tel. +372 614 00 22, www.gotsu.ee. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Sun, Sat. €. S­V­6­W Winter 2019/2020

57

Restaurants เสน่ห์ปลายจวักผัวรักจนตาย

Thai restaurant NOK NOK Lunch 2-courses 7.50 € 3-courses 9.50 €

Workdays 12-15 Vana-Posti 7, Tallinn • www.noknok.ee

Krua One of the few truly Thai places in the city, overall we quite liked our experience when we last paid them a visit. The food was fresh, the service helpful and the atmosphere of this little cellar eatery was cosy enough to settle in for a while. We particularly liked the crunchy, shrimp spring rolls.QD‑5, Vana-Viru 13/ Aia 4, tel. +372 646 26 13, www.krua.ee. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. P­B­S­J­W New Thai Located just opposite the central market, this Thai restaurant has become quite popular among locals, and with us as well. Service is fast and friendly. We tried quite a few dishes, but our favourites were the fried fish in a creamy coconut chu-chi sauce and the spicy minced chicken with onion and mint. The spring rolls were a nice appetiser.

QL‑7, Lastekodu 9, tel. +372 517 43 38, www.newthai. ee. Open 12:00-21:00. €€. B­S­V­6­W NOK NOK As one of the best options for Thai food in Tallinn, NOK NOK does not disappoint. The stylish, yet cosy interior makes for a perfect backdrop to the vibrant and bold dishes that make up a fabulous menu. Portions are generous and ideal for sharing, and the long drinks list offers many options for a great pairing.QC‑5, Vana-Posti 7, tel. +372 53 33 17 44, www.noknok.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. P­T­B­S­V­J­6­W 58 Tallinn In Your Pocket

new Nuudel Locals rave that Nuudel offers the best Thai food in Tallinn, and we can understand why - large portions, heat and spice, and very budget-friendly. Tip: due to the popularity of home food delivery apps like Wolt, service can be a bit slow, even in an empty restaurant. Have patience, you’ll be glad you waited.QI‑7, Telliskivi 15, tel. +372 655 50 59, www.nuudel.ee.

Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:0020:00. €€. S

NOK NOK

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants THE BEST STEAKS IN TOWN ENJOY! Black Angus beef is the best in the world for preparing real steaks. Special technologies of cultivation and forage of bull-calves gives it excellent marbling and unique taste.

Steaks are prepared in unique chartcoal furnaces called Josper, made in Spain.

ON VAIN YKSI TODELLINEN STEAK HOUSE! Viru 22, Tallinn Tel. +372 661 5518 Eteläranta 14, Helsinki Tel: +358 (0) 50 4198 000 Splügenstrasse 2 CH-8002 Zürich www.steak.ee

Carnivores Craving beef? Tallinn has a fine selection of steak houses that know the difference between ‘rare’ and ‘medium’. Many serve imported meat from as far away as Australia and Argentina, but more and more, we’re starting to see local Estonian beef on the menu too.

Goodwin The Steak House Goodwin has tried hard to be the best steakhouse in Tallinn and it probably is, even though it’s really the only one.

The interior is rich and woody, the service is efficient and the imported cuts of beef are excellent. If a full-on beeffest is a little too heavy, you could always drop by during the week for their business lunch specials, but let’s be honest, is a big slab of beef ever ‘too much’.QC‑5, Viru 22, tel. +372 661 55 18, www.steak.ee/index_eng.html. Open 11:00-24:00. €€€. P­B­S­V­J­6­W Oliver The diligent, carved wooden waiter that once stood on Viru Street, has now moved in front of Oliver’s new location on Rataskaevu. Meaty items like entrecote and steak dominate the menu, but there is plenty more for other tastes. We’ve heard a few good reviews about the food and service as of late and the kids play area and eightpage children’s menu certainly make this a good stop for families.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 22, tel. +372 630 78 98, www. restaurantoliver.com. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:0023:30; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. P­T­B­S­J­W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Mustan angus-rotuisen naudan liha on maailman paras vaihtoehto aidon aistin valmistamiseen. Liha on laidunmaan ja ruokinnan erikoisratkaisun ansiosta hyvin marmoroitunutta ja maultaan ainutlaatuinen.

Liharuokamme valmistuvat ainutlaatuisissa espanjalaisissa Josper-hiiliuuneissa

The Able Butcher This swank restaurant in, located in Tallinn’s Hilton Hotel markets itself as a steakhouse, though the extensive menu boasts many Italian-inspired dishes as well. You can’t go wrong with the burgers or steaks, but we quite liked the grilled veal chop with a side of indulgent parmesan fries.QL‑7, Kreutzwaldi 23, tel. +372 630 54 62, www. theablebutcher.ee. Open 07:00-23:00. €€€. P­U­B­ L­W­i

T.Kangro’s sculpture in front of Goodwin steak house

Winter 2019/2020

59

Restaurants Fine dining Looking for a romantic night out or a truly exquisite dining experience? These places are worth the splurge.

180° by Matthias Diether If you’re looking for a truly exquisite dining experience, may we suggest a table at 108°, or more specifically, at their Chef’s Table? Located in the historical area of Port Noblessner, the Chef’s Table seats up to 10 people around the open kitchen in the centre of the restaurant. You can watch the ‘kitchen stage’ while a six-course tasting menu, created by Michelin starred chef Matthias Diether and his team, is prepared and served. Alternatively, you can book a regular table and choose between a six- or four-course tasting menu. And be sure to opt for the wine pairing.

The menu is internationally-inspired, using innovative techniques and the best produce Estonia has to offer. The food is truly a feast for the senses. Dinners last from 2.53.5 hours, depending on the number of courses. Bookings recommended. QJ‑6, Staapli 4, tel. +372 661 01 80, www.180degrees.ee. Open 18:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. P­U­I­L­W

fact #97 Blue eyes are common in northern and eastern Europe, particularly around the Baltic Sea. Ninety-nine percent of Estonians have blue eyes, according to a study by Hans Eiberg from the Department of Cellular and Molecular Medicine at the University of Copenhagen.

Horisont Restaurant & Bar This first-rate restaurant may have a great view, but we think the cuisine and top-notch service are even more spectacular. The folks at Horisont treat everyone like a VIP no matter who they are, every staffer’s move is like a beautiful waltz and every morsel of food a flavourful work of art. We’re pretty sure that if you dine here once, it won’t be your last visit.QK‑7, Tornimäe 3, (Swissotel 30th floor), tel. +372 624 30 00, www.horisontrestoran.ee. Open 18:00-22:00; closed Sun, Mon. Bar open: 17:00 - 01:00. €€€€. P­X­ U­W Nero The best way to describe restaurant Nero is to say “modern classic”. In developing the á la carte menu, chef Virgo Lillepool has orchestrated his team to create the world’s classic culinary pearls in their own key, offering guests joy both in discovery and recognition. The 175-seat restaurant with its easy-to-move furniture, modern sound and video system, built-in stage and dance floor is the perfect place for events such as receptions, weddings, company parties and more. They also serve tasty breakfast and every Sunday welcome you to brunch.QE‑2, Sadama 11a, tel. +372 630 10 18, www.tallinkhotels.com/ tallink-spa-conference-hotel/restaurant-bar-nero. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. P­U­E­W

180° by Matthias Diether Dominic The historic Dominic has two different faces - an elegant ‘black & white’ café in the front and a luxurious restaurant in the back. The café is a great place to nibble on a slice of cake while enjoying a rich espresso or to even indulge in one of the light bites on offer. For a more formal experience, table cloth napkins and all, the restaurant might just fit the bill - and cost a few too.QC‑4, Vene 10, tel. +372 641 04 00, www.restoran.ee. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. X­B­J­6­W

Ribe This Nordic-style eatery is a good representation of a current trend in Tallinn and the food and overall experience were excellent the last time we ate there. The intriguing menu items are all artistically presented and the interior design is just pretty as punch. We found the portions a little on the slim side, nonetheless the ambience, friendly service, fantastic wine list and food made a trip here worthwhile.QC‑5, Vene 7, tel. +372 631 30 84, www.ribe.ee. Open 18:0023:00; closed Sun, Mon. €€€. P­B­J­6­W

Gloria Gloria has been synonymous with class and style since it opened in 1937, and once you get a look at the intricate, pre-war interior, you’ll understand why this was the restaurant of choice for the Pope and several visiting heads of state. In case you need more convincing, Condé Nast named Gloria one of the world’s 100 best. We found our meal here a relaxing, well-orchistrated experience.

QC‑6, Müürivahe 2, tel. +372 640 68 00, www.gloria. ee. Open 17:30-23:30; closed Sun. €€€€. S­J

Tchaikovsky Located in the beautifully renovated Telegraaf and much more opulent than most hotel restaurants, the Tchaikovsky is a luxury Russian-French-fusion affair dedicated to preparing culinary delights reminiscent of fine cuisines from a whole other era. Here you’ll find flaky pastry crusts, succulent shrimps and fine wines fit for the Tsar, and if you’re lucky he’ll offer to pay as well.QC‑4, Vene 9, tel. +372 600 06 10, www.telegraafhotel.com/restaurant-tchaikovsky. Open 18:00-23:00. €€€€. P­U­B­I­E­J­W

60 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants international There are plenty of exciting dining experiences to be had in Tallinn. These are places where the chef plays with the ingredients and combines international cuisines to bring you something a little different. If you’re looking for a casual, yet memorable meal, look no further than this category!

Allee Located inside Kalev Spa Hotel & Water Park, this sleek and modern restaurant offers beautiful views over the park and seating on a large outdoor terrace during warmer months. The internationally-inspired seasonal menu has something for both omnivores and herbivores. We quite enjoyed that herring ice cream and beef carpaccio. Be sure to leave room for dessert, too! A full breakfast menu is served until 11:00. QD‑4, Aia 18/ Kanuti 2, tel. +372 649 30 33, www.kalevspa.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0021:00. €€€. P­U­B­J­W

Emmeline & Otto Located just down the hill from Toompea in the von Stackelberg Hotel, this fine restaurant is suitable for groups, yet still intimate. It was named after von Stackelberg’s children Emmeline and Otto - they both loved good food and would often hang around the kitchen with the chef, especially Emmeline who would often even help out a little.

Many of the ingredients and inspirations used in the menu reflect or indeed come from all across Estonia and are quite pleasing to the palate.QJ‑7, Toompuiestee 23, tel. +372 660 07 00, www.restoemmeline.ee. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€. P­U­B­I­6­W Gurmee Garaaž This new Old Town dining and shopping complex will officially open its doors in December. Gurmee Garaaž will feature an Asian restaurant, seafood café and shop, wine bar, eco-conscious café and bakery, sushi bar, cocktail bar, and rooftop terrace, all into a historical Old Town building.

QD‑4, Aia 10a, www.gurmeegaraaz.ee.

Parrot MiniBar Parrot MiniBar is probably one of the funkiest places you can find in Tallinn. This award-winning restaurant and speakeasy will surprise you with its eclectic jungle decor, secret cocktail nights, and small bites that will leave you only wanting more. Pick and choose from the menu or for the full gastronomic experience, try their tasting menu for two. And be sure to stop in on Sundays for brunch.QC‑5, Vana-Posti 7, tel. +372 433 18 18. Open Tue, Wed 17:0024:00; Thu 17:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00; Sun 12:0018:00; closed Mon. €€. B­J

Allee

Charlie’s Corner Charlie’s Corner, located inside the ibis Tallinn Centre, offers casual dining. The menu covers all the basics salads, pizzas, burgers - with plenty of selection for vegetarians too. With a great selection of craft beer available, be sure to ask about beer pairing. Breakfast is served daily and a snack menu is available 24/7.QL‑8, Juhkentali 28 (ibis Tallinn Centre), tel. +372 699 44 99. Open 12:00-22:00. Breakfast 06:30 - 12:00. €€.

P­T ­U ­B ­S ­V ­L ­W­i

Tabac This classic brasserie offers fabulous cocktails and a classic bistro menu. The interior is tastefully decorated with retro elegance and is a great spot for an evening drink or large meal. The menu changes often, always offering guests something new and exciting.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 4, tel. +372 600 22 20, www.tabac.ee. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00; closed Sun. €€€. P­J­6­W Tempo Resto & Bar Offering an international à la carte menu at all times, this restaurant is especially popular for its speciality buffets.

On a cold day, it’s hard to go past an all-you-can-eat soup buffet. There are always at least four tasty soups to choose from, so take your time and enjoy. They also serve a breakfast and dinner buffet. Visit their website for hours and prices.QE‑2, Sadama 9, tel. +372 667 87 52, www. tallinkhotels.com/tallink-express-hotel/tempo. Open 11:30-23:00; Sun, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. U­W

PASTA I PIZZA I BAR Charlie’s Corner

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

CHECK IT OUT ON PAGE 63

Winter 2019/2020

61

Restaurants pizza Gourmet Pizza ‘Gourmet Club’, long synonymous with quality in Estonia, brings Italian-style sourdough pizza to the heart of Old Town. This cosy little café offers up delicious pies for a pittance. You’ll find some of the classics here, as well as creative combinations that will leave both your taste-buds and tummy satisfied. It all starts with the dough though, their special recipe is the foundation for all that pizza goodness - and the toppings, which come primarily from Italy, work together like a finely tuned operetta. You can also enjoy great coffee and some gastronomical delights onsite, or purchase some delicious souvenirs to take home. Seasonal items such as their signature mulled wine and gingerbreads are must-haves during the colder months.QD‑5, Viru 17, tel. +372 507 22 20, www.gourmetclub.ee. Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. B­S­J Dodo Pizza This international pizza chain with the funky name actually serves up some pretty decent pan and thincrust pizza. The interior is bright and high-tech, the menu is simple to use and the service fast and friendly.

Each pizza comes in three sizes and an easy to use, to-scale diagram shows you exactly how big they are.

Their lightning-fast delivery also fills a great void in Tallinn and you can even watch and track them making your pizza online.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 7, tel. +372 629 92 09, www.dodopizza.ee. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri 09:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. €€.

S­V

vegetarian Plant Plant’s owner and chef Cätlyn is on a mission to remedy the misconceptions about vegan food, and we’d say she’s doing a pretty good job. The menu is inspired by Cätlyn’s own childhood and family favourites, all vegan of course, and combines Estonian and international flavours to all her ‘plant food’. QB‑6, Rüütli 11, tel. +372 655 05 60, www.plantfood.ee. Open 17:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 12:0023:00; closed Mon. B­J

ZA GH PIZ RDOU T SOU S E B THE SOUL ALIAN AN IT WITH

VIRU 17 TALLINN OLD TOWN

Italian Due, perhaps in part, to the influx of Italian men who have seemingly migrated to Tallinn because of the rather endless supply of long-legged blondes, the city has a plethora eateries in this category. We’re not complaining though, both the food and the blondes are bella.

Basiilik Pizza & Pasta Truly an unexpected find. Though not quite rivalling the best Italian cuisine in town, for a restaurant that’s in a giant cinema house, Basiilik is surprisingly high-quality. Soups, pastas and other mains are served by friendly staff in a nicer-than-average dining room. Crowds ebb and flow according to the film schedule and their all-you-can-eat,

Vegan Inspiratsioon This little vegetarian and vegan café, of which there are very few in this primarily meat-eating city, offers up fresh and healthy dishes for those that prefer to stay away from carnivorous cuisines. Both the prices and staff are friendly as is the atmosphere. Also a great spot if you want the Old Town dining experience without the hustle and bustle of places closer to the main square.QC‑3, Lai 44, tel. +372 58 51 62 32, www.veganinspiratsioon.ee. Open 08:0023:00. €. P­B­S­J­6­W Basiilik

62 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

pizza and soup buffet times, which run Monday to Friday 11:30 - 15:00 for a mere €8.50.QE‑4, Hobujaama 5, tel. +372 56 50 99 91, www.basiilik.ee. Open 11:30-23:00; Sun 11:30-22:00. Café part open 09:00 - 23:00. Also at: L-8, Tartu mnt. 87, tel. +372 56 20 21 17. Open 11:00 22:00. €€. P­B­S­V­6­W­i Da Rocco The sleek, yet cosy interior of this trattoria is inviting, especially with the fireplace crackling in the corner. When we visited, they had only just opened, and the menu seemed to be under development, but the friendly owner was keen to let us taste a few different dishes prepared by their Italian chef Rocco. What we did try did not disappoint, especially the beef carpaccio and fritto misto.QB‑4, Lai 6, tel. +372 56 27 11 77, www.darocco.ee. Open 12:30-16:00;18:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. €€€€. J Gianni Think candlelight, champagne buckets and soft, swank modernity. A sophisticated, Italian restaurant like Gianni could pass muster anywhere in the world - this one just happens to be in Tallinn, off Narva mnt. in the direction of the port. Our ricotta-filled ravioli was expertly-prepared.

Those looking for a less involved experience can head to the attached Gianni Café.QL‑7, Jõe 4a, tel. +372 626 36 84, www.gianni.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Café open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 20:00. €€€. P­B­S­L­6­W­i facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Winter 2019/2020

63

Restaurants La Cucina Restaurant & Pizzeria Enjoy authentic Neapolitan wood-fired oven pizzas and other Italian favourites at this centrally-located hotel restaurant. In addition to the classics, be sure to try the Volcano burger with a black bread bun. Wash it all down with a glass of wine or beer from their extensive Italian drinks list. And if the weather allows, you can enjoy your meal on their summer terrace.QJ‑8, Endla 23, tel. +372 666 48 17, www.lacucina.ee. Open 12:00-22:00. €€€.

P­B­S­V­W

La Cucina Restaurant & Pizzeria

SUUR-KARJA 2 - TEL.(+372) 56 22 96 91 - WWW.PULCINELLA.EE

seafood Kalambuur The brainchild of one of Estonia’s most famous fishermen, Vladislav Koržets and his family, this tiny and very cosy seafood restaurant certainly hits the spot.

The quality is very good, the prices not too high and the cuisine is prepared superbly. Our blinis with caviar were some of the best we’ve ever had and the fish and chips were fresh and crunchy. We’ll certainly be back for more fishy goodness as they frequently offer new and exciting items.QA‑6, Toompuiestee 8, tel. +372 56 69 41 94, www.kalambuur.ee. Open Fri, Sat 17:00-22:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. €€€. B­W The Nautilus Comparisons with the Nautilus submarine, envisioned by writer Jules Verne, can certainly be made with this restaurant - one of the few that specialises in seafood here. The brass and dark stained wood interior, offset by curious and interesting sea-inspired elements encompass dining ‘passengers’ with an almost literary steam-punk flare. The menu, naturally, features seafood – yet, includes a fair amount of earthly delights.

With a well-seasoned, albeit youthful Estonian chef at the helm, the cuisine is fresh, classic and creative at the same time.QC‑4, Pikk 36 / Olevimägi 5, tel. +372 57 80 77 77. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€. J 64 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Pulcinella Certainly a dining delight, this very authentic, Neapolitan cellar-restaurant pulls all the stops to give you the complete experience. Italian-owned and operated, they also feature a fresh, imported deli counter where one can find top-notch ingredients. We quite enjoyed the cosy, low-key Italian ambiance. The cuisine was also delightful and our pizza was one of the best we’ve had in Tallinn. There are so many layers to explore at Pulcinella and naturally it isn’t all pizza with them, they offer some other tasty and traditional dishes as well as a surprising array of seafood dishes inspired by the Tyrrhenian Sea.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 2, tel. +372 56 22 96 91, www.pulcinella.ee. Open 11:30-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:3024:00; Sun 11:30-22:00. €€€. P­B­S­J­W Vapiano Foorum Vapiano is a European chain of ‘fresh-casual’ concept restaurants where the tantalising food is prepared right before your very eyes. When you arrive at the door you’re greeted and given a plastic card, then proceed to the open kitchen area or bar where you can place your orders (pasta, salad/antipasti, pizza, drinks) and the items are charged to the card. The majority of mouth-watering food items are fresh and home-made. That’s right - fresh, pastas are dispatched quite quickly, the pizza doesn’t take too long either, but you’ll be given a pager that vibrates and blinks when your pizza is piping hot. The prices are delightfully affordable and the food – bella!QE‑4, Hobujaama 10, tel. +372 682 90 10, www.vapiano.ee. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00. Also at: D-6 Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), solaris@vapiano.ee, tel. 628 59 99. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Also at: M-8, Suur-Sõjamäe 4 (Ülemiste Centre), ulemiste@vapiano.ee, tel. 55 54 50 24. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €€.

P­T­U­B­S­6­W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants gastropubs Craft beers, signature cocktails, and gourmet pub fare are what you’ll find at Tallinn’s gastropubs.

Clayhills Gastropub The first of its kind in Estonia, Clayhills Gastropub has raised the bar high. With executive chef Zvaonekwa (Zvaon) Chamunokara at the kitchen’s helm, the fresh cuisine is more along the lines of a Michelin Star restaurant than that of a pub. Fortunately you won’t have to pay Michelin level prices. The rich interior is heavily garnished with leather and the cellar is well stocked with quality beers and wines alike. The service also comes with a welcoming smile and the atmosphere is brimming with warmth. Situated in the heart of Old Town, Clayhills hosts a spacious outdoor terrace in the warmer months!QC‑4, Pikk 13, tel. +372 641 93 12, www.clayhills.ee. Open 10:00-01:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. €€. B­E­J­6­W

Japanese Japanese restaurants offer so much more than just sushi (though there still are plenty of places for sushi). The ramen craze has certainly hit Tallinn, but there are also a few places specialising in regional cuisines that are certainly worth a visit.

Haku This truly authentic Japanese restaurant, located near the US Embassy, is owned and managed by a Japanese chef and his Estonian wife (who also happens to be a Japanese trained sushi chef). The menu is compact and quite traditional - albeit with a certain modern flare and filled with all the tasty delicacies you might want to enjoy from a restaurant in this genre. Everything at Haku is down to the details, homemade soy sauce, fresh seafood and imported Japanese ingredients. Stepping into this eatery is like entering another world. In 2017, Haku won three Silverspoon prizes for Best International Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Service.QD‑7, Lätte 6, tel. +372 56 31 45 47, www.haku. ee. Open 17:00-22:30; closed Mon, Sun. Reservation is highly recommended. €€. B­I­S­V­6

Read more reviews online: tallinn.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Frank Dedicated, we assume to ‘Ol’ Blue Eyes’, this culinary cocktail bar also doubles as a New York, Soho-style bistro - and they do offer up an extensive selection of drinks and cocktails served with class. Their menu offerings are also quite delectable and the prices rather reasonable.

We particularly enjoyed the burger, of which they offer a few, but their soups and great vegetarian dishes are also definitely worth trying.QC‑5, Sauna 2, tel. +372 623 30 59, www.frankbistro.ee. Open 12:00-24:00; Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. €€. B­J­6­W Sushi Plaza A short walk from Viru Keskus will find you at this sushi bar - the relaxed atmosphere and price per portion ratio is certainly to be commended and the quality of their various offerings is generally quite good. Their menu consists primarily of various maki rolls, but they also offer a few nigiris, as well as a some traditional soups including the ever popular miso varieties.QK‑7, Narva mnt. 6, tel. +372 53 33 26 99, www.sushiplaza. ee. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0021:00. Also at: D-4, Aia 10a (Gurmee Garaaž). €€.

P­S ­V ­6 ­W Tokumaru If you’re looking for something a little different than the usual fare, this stylish Japanese restaurant in the centre is both authentic and tasty. They offer a full range of ramen soups, sushi, and other Japanese specialities such as tempura - perhaps the best thing about this eatery though are the prices and value for money combos.

Great daily offers as well.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 57 70 24 05, www.tokumaru.ee.

Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 11:0023:00. €€. P­S ­6 ­W Winter 2019/2020

65

Restaurants street food

Mexican There’s nothing like a good taco to cure the munchies. In Tallinn, you’ll find many interpretations, with some chefs even making their own tortillas.

Who doesn’t love good street food? Perhaps an oversized burger oozing some signature sauce or something that reflects local cuisine with a name you can’t pronounce… Whatever your flavour, there’s plenty to explore right here in Tallinn.

You’ll find a few street food options in the Old Town.

Medieval-themed III Draakon (C-5, Town Hall) has been enticing tourists with its unforgettable elk soup and fresh pies for years. Due to popular demand, Baojaam (D-5, Müürivahe 50) opened a second location on Müürivahe, with a slightly longer menu than at it’s Balti jaam market location. FishBish (E-5, Viru väljak 6, entrance from Laikmaa street), a fish and chips takeaway in Viru Keskus, let’s you choose your own combo, including some excellent vegetarian and gluten-free options.

The one-stop-shop for street food is hands down the Baltijaam market (A‑3, Kopli 1). The ever-growing street food section of the market offers everything from sushi and dumplings to fried chicken and burgers.

Just outside of the market is Depoo, a collection of old train cars and containers that have been turned into small restaurants and takeaways. Check the full listings in Shopping section.

Some of the first places to start offering street fare were Papa Joe (K-6, Sadama 25, Sadama market) and Bueno Gourmet (J-7, Telliskivi 60a). Still going strong, Papa Joe offers some of the best falafel and kebabs in town, as well as a good selection of Middle Eastern dips, spreads and olives to take away. Bueno Gourmet, a food truck located in the Telliskivi area, serves up tasty tacos, burgers, wraps and sandwiches.

Street food is a great way to get a sense of local food culture without committing to an entire meal in a restaurant. While Tallinn isn’t quite yet overrun with food trucks like many other cities of the world, we still have our fair share of street food where you can taste the flavours of the world without spending a fortune.

66 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Amarillo Located on the ground floor of the Sokos Viru Hotel, bright, friendly colours, hot (spicy) food, and a professional demeanour greet you at Amarillo. Other ‘Yankee’ choices such as burgers are also present, alongside the classics such as quesadillas and sizzling fajitas. The vast dining area, large menu, and kid’s play corner make this restaurant a great choice for families - while two bars cater to an after-work or after shopping crowd, which often seems to be the case.QD‑5, Viru väljak 4, tel. +372 680 92 80, www.raflaamo.fi/en/tallinn/amarillo-viru-tallinn.

Open 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:30. €€€. P­U­B­ S­6­W Taqueria - Tacos & Drinks Located in the Rotermann City industrial space, the atmosphere at this qausi-Mexican place is both cosy and interesting. While the menu isn’t huge, they feature a lot of the classics (tacos, quesadillas etc.), and all with various meaty fillings - some great veggie options for you herbivores too. We were thrilled with their hand-made and sufficiently caliente jalapeño poppers, they came with a rather tasty dipping sauce and even a drawn and quartered pineapple! Unfortunately we didn’t see any handmade tortillas while we were there, perhaps they’ll offer them in the future... hint, hint. Overall we very much enjoyed the experience - some delicious cocktails to suck back as well.QE‑4, Rotermanni 14, tel. +372 56 99 88 98, www.taqueria.ee. Open 11:45-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:4501:00. B­S ­W

World Cuisines The international community is growing in Tallinn, which means a growing number of international restaurants to try.

Argentiina Certainly worth the brief walk from Old Town, this well-established, popular and slightly swank restaurant where South American cooks grill slabs of steak and fish right within view of one of the dining areas - is certainly a ‘cut above’ many other eateries in town.

From the service to the kitchen staff, one gets the impression that everyone working here truly puts a lot of pride into what they do and it definitely shows in the end result. Prices are decent especially given the overall experience. We quite enjoyed our grilled rib-eye steak and home-made jalapeno poppers with a twist.QK‑8, Pärnu mnt. 37, tel. +372 660 51 77, www.argentiina.ee. Open 12:00-24:00. Also at: L-7, Lootsi 8, +372 66 05 178. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€.

P­X ­B ­S ­6 ­W tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Beer House In keeping with its beer-drinking theme, the menu at Old Town’s only micro brewery lists three different kinds of sausages alongside all sorts of other foods that go great with beer - naturally pizza and some juicy grilled items are also available. The real reason to stop in though is the beer-hall ambience and the unpasteurised, home-made, living beers, which come in seven different varieties. If you’re a cheese gourmand, also check out Rae Meierei, next door (see review under New Nordic category).QB‑5, Dunkri 5, tel. +372 58 19 06 70, www.beerhouse.ee. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€.

P­X ­B ­E ­J ­W Georgian Tavern Tbilisi This Old Town restaurant in Tallinn offers up a real taste of Georgia. The staff of this family restaurant are very welcoming, as is the atmosphere. You’ll find all the Georgian classics such as hinkali (meat dumplings), grilled sashlik (meat skewers) and our favourite, hatchapuri (melted cheese filled flat-bread) among many others. All dishes are prepared fresh so be prepared to wait a little for your food to arrive. Our only warning is that with all the mouth-watering offers on the menu, many including photos, you’ll be tempted to bite off more than you can chew. So bring friends, order a few dishes and share them.QB‑5, Rüütli 18, tel. +372 742 28 28, www.tbilisi.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. B­I ­S ­J ­6 ­W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Siga La Vaca This colourful Argentinian restaurant prides itself on its parilla, or grilled meat. Chef Simon, a trained parilla chef offers beautifully grilled steaks from Brazil and Uruguay, all served with chimichurri. Service is very friendly and staff are very knowledgeable, and happy to talk to you about the menu. While the steaks were some of the best we’ve tasted in Tallinn, our favourite was the beef heart served with cheese sauce. For those less adventurous, there are a few seafood options, as well as some tasty appetisers.

QJ‑6, Vabriku 6/1, tel. +372 53 95 75 12. Open 12:0022:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€.

Troika One of Tallinn’s must-see cellar restaurants, Troika wows its clientele with a cosy, old-style Russian décor and a singer who belts out folk songs from a balcony from time to time. (When choosing your table, you may want to consider just how close you want to be to this spectacle.) But the best thing about this place is the food - excellent bliny and pelmeni as well as a selection of traditional main courses. Great service. Book ahead.

QC‑5, Raekoja plats 15, tel. +372 53 33 85 55, www.troika. ee. Open 11:00-23:00. €€€. X­U­B­I­J

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app Winter 2019/2020

67

Restaurants kadriorg area

fact #98

The restaurants listed here are located in the scenic Kadriorg district of Tallinn. Check out our ‘Sightseeing’ section to find out more.

Estonia is fortunate to see millions of migratory birds each year. At least 380 species of birds are spotted in the country annually. Bird watching season begins in early March, and Estonia is considered among the top three bird watching destinations in Europe.

Mon Repos What was once a very chic restaurant/casino back in the 1920s, has now been completely renovated and reopened as a restaurant led by chef Vladislav Djatšuk. The beautifully refurbished interior is sleek, yet cosy. The menu is inspired by historic recipes that Djatšuk has recreated with a modern twist. We particularly liked the paté with green apple jelly and the grilled romaine salad with bone marrow vinaigrette. The degustation hall is open upstairs from Thursday to Saturday.QM‑7, Narva mnt. 92, tel. +372 507 02 73, www.monrepos.ee. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€.

P­T ­B ­I ­L ­W NOP - shop & café Originally touted as an eco-friendly organic shop and café, this addition to the Kadriorg landscape is certainly fresh and trendy. The food was nicely prepared, presented and we certainly enjoyed the mellow atmosphere while lingering over a coffee.

You’ll also be able to find some fresh and interesting food items to take home with you from the shop.

In summer they have a big nice bohemian garden under old shady trees.QL‑7, Köleri 1, tel. +372 603 22 70, www.nop.ee. Open 08:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-20:00. €€. T­B ­I ­S ­6 ­W­i RADIO With a growing number of restaurants in the area, Radio is one of the latest additions. This modern space with an open kitchen is stylishly decorated.

The menu features seasonal dishes using top quality ingredients. Check their Facebook page for weekday lunch specials. QL‑7, Terase 16, tel. +372 550 44 99, www.restoranradio.ee. Open 12:0014:30;17:00-23:00; Sat 17:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€.

Riis Located right on the edge of Kadriorg, this trendy and stylish, Asian-fusion eatery serves up fresh and delicious dishes from all over the continent.

Everything from crispy spring rolls to pad Thai and chow mein to pho bo soup can be found here - all delightfully prepared and everything we’ve eaten at Riis has been pleasing to the palate to say the least. Great lunch specials too.QL‑7, Tina 21, tel. +372 642 70 25, www.riis.ee. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun, Sat 12:00-22:00. €€. P­T ­U ­S ­L ­6 ­W

Theme restaurants It's certainly not unusual to find a medieval restaurant in a medieval Old Town, but did you know that Tallinn even has a pirate-themed restaurant?

Maikrahv Named for the ‘May Count’ of Tallinn’s medieval days of yore, this respectable establishment hidden under Town Hall Square hints at old-style regality all the while providing a decidedly modern and down-to-earth dining experience that won’t bust your budget. The menu is international, dominated by fillets with a couple of pastas thrown in for good measure. Delicately prepared food and professional service made the experience come off without a hitch.QC‑4, Raekoja plats 8, tel. +372 55 51 45 17, www. maikrahv.ee. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. P­B­E­S­J Olde Hansa Many frequent travellers would say that you haven’t really been to Tallinn unless you’ve visited Olde Hansa. This Mecca of mediaevalism in the heart of Old Town doesn’t just serve historically authentic fare made from carefully researched recipes, it provides guests with a whole experience using a combination of candlelight, waiters and waitresses in period costume and medieval background music. Chamber musicians round out the ambience every night of the week.

QC‑5, Vana turg 1, tel. +372 627 90 20, www.oldehansa. com. Open 11:00-24:00. €€€€. U­B­I­E­J­6 Peppersack Peppersack makes wonderful use of the 15th-century building it calls home - both the vast main hall and the more intimate rooms further back exude comfy medieval-ness. The menu is European-based, with hearty dishes to satisfy any palate. The fresh, hot rolls are a nice touch.

Every day around 20:30 there’s a theatrical sword fight in the main hall. Great terrace in the summer.QC‑5, Viru 2, tel. +372 646 68 00, www.peppersack.ee. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€. P­T­B­J­6­W­Y

PASTA I PIZZA I BAR CHECK IT OUT ON PAGE 63

68 Tallinn In Your Pocket

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Cafés

Find these amazing, and sinful treats at Rukis (see page 70).

Ranging from full on eateries, to quaint little coffee nooks that serve up a few pastries and cakes - Tallinn has a lot to offer if you're looking for a café. With our comprehensive list, we're sure you'll find the right one for you.

Classic cafes The staple formula of a bunch of little, round tables and a pastry counter has served Tallinn well for years. It’s not that these places don’t have ambience - they do, but they’re more for grabbing a bite on the run than for settling in.

Gustav Café If your in the mood for great cakes, pastries or an excellent cup of coffee - Gustav will probably satisfy your cravings.

This nice little café at the bottom of the Solaris Centre treats their baked goods with serious respect and they try to put positive thoughts into everything that goes into their ovens.

The staff are also quite friendly which certainly helps make a visit to Gustav an enjoyable experience.QD‑6, Estonia pst.

9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 672 27 22, www.gustavcafe. ee. Open 09:00-22:00. P­U­S­6­W

Gustav Café

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Kehrwieder One of the best cafés in town for ambience, Kehrweider is a snug warren of cave-like stone rooms filled with quirky, old furniture. Excellent gourmet coffees, handmade chocolates and the Town Hall Square location are other plusses, but be warned it can get crowded here.QC‑4, Saiakang 1, tel. +372 55 56 72 03, www.kohvik.ee. Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-01:00. B­S ­J ­W ­Y Maiasmokk Tallinn’s oldest café, the Sweet Tooth has been serving marzipan and other treats since it opened way back in 1864. Drop in for elaborate cakes, cheap coffee, and an amazing, pre-war interior.QC‑4, Pikk 16, tel. +372 646 40 79, www.kohvikmaiasmokk.ee. Open 08:0021:00; Sun, Sat 09:00-21:00. S­J Pierre Chocolaterie People squeeze into this quaint, frilly, 19th-century style café for two reasons: One is that it has its own master Chocolatier who cooks up truffles from scratch, and the other is the unbeatably cosy atmosphere. Be warned that seats fill up fast and that during slow times they occasionally close a little early.

QC‑5, Vene 6 (in the Masters Courtyard), tel. +372 641 80 61, www.pierre.ee. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00-22:00. B­S ­J ­W Saiakang Saiakang is located in a narrow passageway connecting Pikk Street with Town Hall Square, where you can sit by the large windows and watch as people pass by. The café boasts a good selection of freshly-baked cakes and pastries (all made in-house), as well as some great coffee.QC‑4, Saiakang 3, tel. +372 644 30 55.

Open 09:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. €. P­B ­S ­J­ 6­W Winter 2019/2020

69

Cafés Modern cafés Tallinn’s most en vogue cafés all offer full meals as well as the satisfaction that you’re with the ‘in’ crowd. These classy establishments are best for long chats with friends, romantic encounters and discussions about your next novel.

Anneli Viik Handmade Chocolates Café Chocoholics beware! This little, Old Town café features Anneli Viik’s handmade chocolates, made on the spot and sold either by the box for take-away, or in smaller portions to accompany your coffee (or light food or cognac, etc).

There’s even a glass wall that lets you watch the chocolatiers do their stuff.QC‑4, Pikk 30, tel. +372 644 45 30, www.anneliviik.ee. Open 11:00-19:00. P­S­J­6­W August This tiny little café is both quaint and stylish. The menu features plenty of all-day breakfast dishes, as well as inventive appetisers and some great sandwiches. With excellent coffee, an airy atmosphere, and good service, this is a nice place to chill with a friend.QC‑5, Väike-Karja 5, tel. +372 508 60 22, www.kohvikaugust.ee. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri 09:00-02:00; Sat 11:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. €€.

P­B­S­J­6­W­i Bogapott Tucked into part of a medieval town wall on Toompea, the family-run Bogapott is a cosy, otherworldly hideaway.

Fresh, flaky pastries and sandwiches are the speciality in this combination café, art shop and ceramics studio.QB‑5, Pikk jalg 9, tel. +372 631 31 81, www.bogapott.ee. Open 10:00-19:00. B­I­J­W Carmen Café Located in the Rotermann Quarter, this fairly stylish café seems to really like soup - in fact they offer two new soups daily. For all you ‘anti-soupers’, they have a wide range of pastries, gourmet sandwiches and decadent cakes as well. Breakfast is served all day and you can enjoy such classics as Eggs Benedict, Eggs Florentine, omelettes, and Carmen’s very own English Breakfast.QE‑4, Rotermanni 5, tel. +372 53 23 44 55. Open 08:00-19:00; Sun, Sat 10:00-19:00. Also at: C-6, Kentmanni 4, tel. +372 509 72 51. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun closed. €€. P­B­S­ 6­W­i Must Puudel The Black Poodle is a funky, retro eatery with a heavy Soviet living-room feel and a cosy, retro atmosphere that seems to be its main draw. The fresh cuisine is kind of a blend between trendy and home-style, the prices won’t bankrupt you and there are even live entertainment events held some weekends. It certainly can get quite busy during the lunch rush and some evenings, just keep that in mind.

QC‑5, Müürivahe 20, tel. +372 505 62 58. Open Mon, Tue 09:00-23:00; Wed 09:00-01:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:0002:00; Sun 09:00-23:00. €. P­B­E­S­J­6­W­i 70 Tallinn In Your Pocket

RØST The spongy sourdough is something you’ll want to keep going back for at this bakery in Rotermanni Quarter. Enjoy a quick coffee from some of the best micro roasters in Tallinn and abroad, as well as tasty sandwiches and freshly baked pastries to eat in or take away.QE‑4, Rotermanni 14, tel. +372 56 22 32 39, www.rost.ee. Open 08:3018:00; Sat 09:30-16:00; closed Sun. S Ruby Ruby, located in the Rotermann Quarter, is one of two kosher restaurants in Tallinn. We’re particularly excited about the bagels, although on the pricey side, are pretty great.

Eat in or take away bagels, salads and various other bits and pieces. A good choice if you’re looking for something fast and fresh!QE‑4, Rotermanni 2, tel. +372 56 79 11 11. Open 08:00-18:00; Thu, Fri 08:00-20:00; Sun 09:0020:00; closed Sat. €.

Rukis Attached to the popular Estonian restaurant Farm, enjoy a great selection of cakes and pastries, as well as Rukis’ own house-made black bread. In addition to the delectable baked goods, Rukis also offers hearty breakfast options, as well as a full menu throughout the day. QC‑5, Viru 11, tel. +372 517 32 61, www.rukis.ee. Open 08:00-20:00. €€.

P­U­B­S­J­W­

icecream Cortile It’s hard to resist a good gelato on a warm day. Italian-owned and operated, this small gelateria has had great success in its first few months and we suspect will continue to have. The gelato is made fresh daily, with a rotating selection of classic flavours like pistachio, lemon, stracciatella, chocolate, fior di latte and more.QB‑5, Lühike jalg 4. Open 11:00 - 19:00.€.

S­J Gelato Ladies Fresh gelato, prepared daily from all-natural ingredients is what’s on offer at Gelato Ladies. A funky, modern interior compliments the colourful display of delicious gelato. Service is friendly and the gelato production can be seen through their open kitchen as well.QD‑3, Uus 28. Open 11:00-21:00; Sun 10:0021:00; Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00. €. B­S­J tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

This impressive soviet-era building at Vana-Posti 8 is home to Sõprus cinema as well as Club Hollywood.

One could get the impression that Estonians are hopeless party animals. For a town its size, Tallinn has a suspiciously high number of bars and nightclubs. But for foreign visitors, this just means there’s more variety on offer. This section is designed to help you pick the nightspot that suits your mood, whatever that may be.

Please keep in mind that many of the bars, lounges and pubs we have listed also offer extensive menu’s and are usually open at noon - making some of them quite viable options for lunch or dinner.

SYMBOL key 6 Pets allowed

J Old Town location

I Fireplace

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking area

S Take-away

L Free parking

B Outside seating N Payment in cash only W Wifi

Y Tallinn Card partner

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app

Expat hangouts Whether or not you consider it a stamp of approval, these bars and pubs are where Tallinn’s expats, a fare share of locals that like to speak English and more than a few tourists, tend to congregate.

Clayhills Gastropub Serving up gastronomical delights both by day and night, this is a great place to hang out in a relaxed atmosphere.

Clayhills, situated in the heart of the Old Town offers up an excellent selection of local and imported beers, heart-warming and creative pub cuisine and a healthy dose of live music on weekends. If you’re looking for a more intimate experience, you can check out the cosy upstairs on the 2nd floor. Watch Tallinn pass you by from one of the window seats, or from the large outdoor terrace in the warmer months!QC‑4, Pikk 13, tel. +372 641 93 12, www.clayhills.ee. Open 10:00-01:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 10:0002:00. B­E­J­6­W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Winter 2019/2020

71

Open mic Sundays Live Sports

Huge whiskey selection Weekly Live Music

from €3.80

Raekoja plats (Town Hall Square) MadMurphysIrishBar

Nightlife how to toast in estonian If you want to get in good with the locals, it never hurts to learn how to toast in the national language.

Luckily it’s fairly simple here: Estonians toast by clinking their glasses and saying ‘Terviseks’ (health). It’s crucial, however, that you look your drinking companion in the eye just as your glasses are clinking. If you miss this step, the toast doesn’t count and you’ll have to start all over!

Mad Murphy’s Mad Murphy’s is everything you’d expect from an Irish Pub and a whole lot more. Featuring a well-ventilated smoking room, a dance-floor, more large-screens than you can shake a stick at and some fantastic live music on weekends, Murphy’s can certainly get quite ‘mad’ any night of the week. They also serve up an excellent variety of your favourite pub grub. Great selection of beers on tap. Murphy’s currently has a whiskey corner and one the largest selection of whiskeys in Estonia. A sampler menu also available for the whiskey connoisseur.QC‑4, Mündi 2, tel. +372 601 10 70. Open 10:00-04:00. X­B­E­J­W Nimeta Baar (The Pub with No Name) In case the flags hanging out front don’t give it away, Nimeta is the quintessential expat bar. At times it looks like something between a British stag party hangout and an expat boys’ club, but a good number of locals and traveller types make it more interesting, especially on weekends when DJs get people into the dancing mood. One of the best paces in the city to watch to watch live broadcast sports events on one of their many screens. If you’re into Indian cuisine they also offer some truly excellent curries for rather reasonable prices, and make sure to check out their daily dish during the week.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 4, tel. +372 641 15 15/(+372) 56 49 14 91, www.nimetabaar. ee. Open 09:00-03:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-05:00. Age restriction 18+. X­U­B­J­W

Bars & Pubs Assorted watering holes, each with its own style. labor Baar ‘Labor’ which means ‘lab’ in English is pretty much just that - they’ve got loads of experimental shooters on the menu, served in holders containing ten test tubes. If you’d prefer to sip your chemical concoctions, they also offer an explosion of other science-themed cocktails, certain to please any aspiring drunk, even you got an ‘F’ in chemistry. Spending too much time here could be hazardous to your health though. The lower level acts as a nightclub Wednesday through Saturday and entrance is free.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 10. Open 19:00-06:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 17:0006:00. Age restriction 18+. X­J­W facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Route 13 Bar Restaurant by day and bar/nightclub after dark, this very lively locale is situated on Old Town’s main bar street. The atmosphere has an air of being a bit of a ‘meet market’ but that’s kind of the point. Lots of big screens so you can catch the latest premier league matches, special events, a dance floor, beautiful girls and live music kind of pull it altogether. If you have a hankering for some decent ‘Yankeestyle’ food, their kitchen is also open late.QC‑5, Suur-Karja 13, tel. +372 680 76 17. Open Sun 12:00-03:00; Mon, Tue 11:00-03:00; Wed, Thu 11:00-04:00; Fri 11:00-06:00; Sat 12:00-06:00. X­B­J­W Scotland Yard An absolute monster of a pub just outside Old Town, Scotland Yard earns praise for its quaint Victorian-library/police-department interior, which even includes toilets done up like electric chairs! It can get rather busy on weekend nights, so bring along some patience, grab a seat when you can and slam a few back before heading out to one of the numerous clubs in the area. Live music nights from Tuesday to Saturday.QD‑4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. +372 653 51 90, www.scotlandyard.ee. Open 12:00-24:00; Mon 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Free admission. B­E­W

www.inyourpocket.com Winter 2019/2020

73

FB:highlandertallinn

From â‚Ź3.60

Serving food all night!

Estonia's largest whisky selection Sky sports Darts

Nightlife St. Patrick’s The name and décor may be Irish, but the crowds in each of Tallinn’s four St. Patrick’s pubs are just about as Estonian as they come. All offer decent, cheap food, and every fourth Saku Originaal is always free. The one on Pikk is situated in a gothic house from the 15th century. The 600-year old house is worth exploring, especially with a pint in hand.QC‑4, Pikk 45, tel. +372 641 81 73, www. patricks.ee. Open 11:00-02:00; Thu 10:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-04:00. Also at: G-3, Narva mnt 5, tel: 664 04 43.

Open 10:00 - 24:00, Thu 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 04:00. J­6­W Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina Respectably busy (but rarely packed) on a given Friday night, Tallinn’s Texas-style cantina is a casual place to knock back a corona while tapping your foot to the twangy country/rock or old blues played in the stereo.

Monster portions of fries will kill even the worst munchies.

QC‑4, Pikk 43, tel. +372 631 17 55, www.texas.ee. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. B­I­E­S­J­6­W The Highlander The only Scottish pub in Tallinn, this intimate little cellar venue stocks the largest variety of Scottish beers and the largest selection of whiskeys in Estonia. If you have a hankering for some of Scotland’s favourite bar foods, you’ll also find them at the Highlander. Deep-fried ‘haggis-baws’, sausage rolls, scotch eggs and deep fried mars bars make this the right place if you’re planning on throwing your diet into a deep ‘loch’. Occasional live music on weekends and some excellent whiskey based cocktails and moonshine as well. ‘Lets get pissed!’.QC‑5, Kuninga 1, tel. +372 58 83 61 20. Open 17:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 12:0007:00; Sun 12:00-03:00; closed Mon. X­B­J­W

artsy/underground The raw underbelly of Tallinn’s music and art scene will be appealing only to more adventurous travellers.

Bunker The best place to be drinking during an air raid, this literally underground dive comes decked out with all gas masks and Cold War-era junk you’ll need to survive.

Being included in every hostel’s organised pub tour has made it feel less than local, but it’s still got enough gritty appeal to pull in its share of Tallinn’s alternative crowd. Find it buried in the hill next to Fat Margaret’s Tower.QD‑3, Pikk 72. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue, Wed, Thu 18:00-24:00; Fri 10:00-05:00; Sat 12:0005:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. J Depeche Mode bar Vilnius has its Frank Zappa statue, so it’s only fair that Tallinn has this bar dedicated to Depeche Mode. For normal humans, this is just a friendly dive bar stuffed with fan memorabilia. But if you’re a true DM fan, this is all you ever wanted, all you ever needed.QB‑4, Voo‑ rimehe 4, tel. +372 631 43 08, www.depechemode. ee. Open 18:00-02:00; closed Mon. Age restriction 18+. X­E­J­W Furry Owl Watch your head when climbing down into Old Town’s tiniest bar, a cellar venue whose charm comes from its decidedly junky décor. The Owl is popular with students and adventurous tourists, so if you don’t manage to get one of the few tables, nobody will complain if you enjoy your drink while standing in the way.QC‑4, Vene 27, tel. +372 55 51 42 32. Open 21:00-02:00; Wed 20:00-24:00; closed Mon, Tue. J Levist väljas Tallinn’s most grotty, seedy and all-around diviest dive bar. Students, Rastafarians and rockers alike congregate in this medieval cellar bar known for cheap drinks and uninhibited fun. Levist is usually people’s last stop of the night after drinking heavily elsewhere.QC‑4, Olevimägi 12, tel. +372 504 60 48. Open 15:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 15:0006:00. Age restriction 18+. N­X­E­J­6­W

The Highlander’s sausage roll

Ükskõik If you’re looking for some good, old-fashioned, chill fun then this ‘whatever’ bar has it going on. They don’t take themselves too seriously - but that’s kind of the point. This is a student dive-bar slash second living room and they serve up decently priced drinks, offer some cool events and most importantly just a great place to unwind. Afterall - not everyone is looking for something fancy, sometimes you just want a locale where you can do body shots off a girl you just met.QC‑4, Pikk 35, tel. +372 699 01 30. Open 18:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-05:00. S­J facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

TUUM This tiny café-bar sandwiched between galleries has been a popular meeting place for artists and artsy types since 1935. While the café opens early for coffee and fresh pastries, don’t let the opening hours fool you.

Come here in the evenings for some great snacks and a glass of wine or cocktail after a night at the theatre and enjoy jazz, soul and pop music as well.QC‑6, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. +372 644 59 26, www.tuumcafe.ee.

Open 07:30-23:00; Mon 07:30-21:00; Fri 07:30-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. B­J­6­W Winter 2019/2020

75

Nightlife Beer bars A few years ago it was difficult to find beers of exceptional character or quality in Tallinn. A few individuals and establishments certainly changed that and now it’s actually hard to find a decent bar that doesn’t serve up great imports and local craft brews. Some however go the extra mile, if you happen to be a beer connoisseur check these places out.

Beer Garden Tucked away on the edge of the Old Town, some might walk past thinking it’s a bit too touristy, but that would be a mistake. Aside from the cosy atmosphere and the colourful outdoor terrace in warmer months, Beer Garden offers some decent food. Their pub grub-inspired menu has a lot to choose from, including some nice vegetarian options, a great burger, and their own giant homemade elk sausage, just to name a few. The staff can help you pair your meal with one of over 30 different beers available on tap or in bottle. With several big screens, Beer Garden is also a good option for watching sports.QD‑4, Aia 10 / Inseneri 1, tel. +372 688 00 13, www.beergarden.ee.

Open 11:30-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:30-02:00. X­B­J­W Beer House So, how much German oompah music can you stand?

Just teasing, they do play other beer-drinking favourites as well. This enormous, old-fashioned, Bavarian-style beer hall is something of a landmark in Tallinn. That said, the sprawling restaurant just off Town Hall Square is also Old Town’s only micro brewery, serving seven very decent in -house varieties of live beer.QB‑5, Dunkri 5, tel. +372 644 22 22, www.beerhouse.ee. Open 12:00-24:00. P­X­ B­E­S­J­W

Beer House

Brewery gastropub Brewery offers a wide selection of different international beers, as well as a few of their own house-brewed ones on tap. The menu offers an international selection of everything from tacos to schnitzels to sliders. While the food and the service is hit or miss, if you’re looking for a place to watch football, you’ll no doubt find a seat.QB‑4, Pikk 76 Tallinn In Your Pocket

1, tel. +372 631 36 31, www.brewery.ee. Open 11:0001:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00-03:00. €€. P­X­B­I­J­ 6­W Drink Bar & Grill Drink Bar & Grill offers a great selection of over 300 different beers, half of which are from Estonia, and 15 of which are on tap. On a typical evening you’ll find a lively bunch of patrons from all over the world; backpackers, locals and ex-pats all seem to congregate here. Whatever category you might fit into you’ll be sure to have feel at home here, imbibing in a ‘drink’ or otherwise.QC‑5, Väike-Karja 8, tel. +372 644 94 33. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00.

B­J­6­W Pööbel Just at the bottom of the Toompea, away from Old Town, Pööbel certainly has all the makings to become a great bar. They’re definitely on the right track in terms of style and atmosphere - but they have a bit to go in terms of food and drinks. We’ll have to check back on them to see if these areas have improved. Seemingly quite geared towards Estonians.QJ‑7, Toompuiestee 16, tel. +372 601 77 70, www.poobel.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun, Mon 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. U­B­6­W Põrgu A great place to grab a decently prepared bite to eat or an interesting beer, Põrgu, or Hell in Estonian, is worth a visit. Ironically enough it’s situated in a cellar but we didn’t notice any roaring fire the last time we visited - unless of course you can call candle flames roaring. The real treat here is being able to choose from 15 draught beers and ciders as well as 200+ bottled beers. They have a good selection of Estonian micro-brews, as well as three of their very own house beers - the recipes were conceived by the owner. Every month they change one or two of their draught beers, just to shake it up a little.QB‑5, Rüütli 4, tel. +372 644 02 32, www.porgu.ee. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; closed Sun. J

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

CIGAR SHOP & LOUNGE & BAR

HAPPY CIGARS Lootsi 14 - 2, close to terminal D at Tallinn passenger harbour www.cigars.ee, info@cigars.ee, phone +372 5559 3062 Happy Cigars Lounge

Cigar lounges

Happy Cigars Lounge

Happy Cigars Shop & Lounge This port-side cigar shop offers a wide range of Cubans and cigars from other countries. In addition to the smoking room, the spacious walk-in humidor lets you easily familiarise yourself with what’s on offer. Located in a century-old warehouse, you can also also enjoy coffee or a drink from bar, as well as some nice dishes. Tax-free sales are available to tourists living outside EU.QL‑6, Lootsi 14, tel. +372 55 59 30 62, www.cigars.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. P­X­U­B­6­W

The Oak Lounge - Tallinn Owned by one of Estonia’s largest cigar distributors, this casual, Afro-Caribbean-style lounge with a large selection of whiskeys from around the globe, has comfy chairs and a warm sophisticated look. It’s a sensible place to stop for any number of the 200 types of Dominican, Nicaraguan, Honduran or cross blended cigars from the finest cigar manufacturers around the world. Friendly, professional service helps to make your time here a ‘full bodied’ experience. The Oak Lounge also has an extensive cigar and whiskey shop for those who would rather indulge back at the hotel or at home.QB‑5, Dunkri 2, tel. +372 644 56 47, www.theoaklounge.com. Open 10:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. X­J­W

Happy Cigars Shop and Lounge

The Oak Lounge

Puff to your heart’s content in these highly urbane shop/ lounges.

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Winter 2019/2020

77

Nightlife new year’s in tallinn

In Tallinn for New Year’s? Here are some tips: Tallinn’s biggest New Year’s Eve parties are held by major hotels. These are involved affairs and usually require that you buy your tickets in advance. Most locals who are looking for a spontaneous party simply hit the Old Town bars and nightclubs. Beware, however, that some of these places might also make you pay to get in on that special night. When the hour draws near, the party crowd tends to gravitate towards Town Hall Square, though for better fireworks viewing, nearby Vabaduse väljak (Freedom square) is a better choice.

According to local etiquette, before midnight you should wish your friends and neighbours head vana aasta lõppu (happy old year’s ending). After the clock strikes twelve though, the cry then becomes head uut aastat! (Happy New Year). If that’s too much to remember, feel free to shout it out in English, Spanish, Portuguese, or whatever. People will figure it out from context.

Cocktail bars Tallinn’s new nightlife trend will probably become a mainstay. There are so many of these lounge bars at the moment that we’ve chosen only to list our favourites. Some are stand-alone establishments and focus solely on beverages, both the classics and their signature cocktails can usually be had - while others also serve fairly tasty food.

Botaanik You’ll want to book ahead if you plan to visit this trendy artisan cocktail bar. But, you’ll be glad you did. With only a few tables, Botaanik fills up quick. The cocktails are created focusing on “the incredible taste of plants”, with anything from wild fruit to moss. A perfect place to start your evening.QC‑3, Suurtüki 2, www.botaanik.ee. Open Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. B­J­6­ W Butterfly Lounge When we were last here we got the distinct feeling that this lounge was geared primarily towards the ladies. Per78 Tallinn In Your Pocket

haps it was the pink-clad waiters, overall butterfly motif, frou-frou menu items and more cock... tails than you can shake a stick at that made us feel this way, but if you want to spend the evening hanging out with a harem of beautiful dames, this just might be the perfect place. Excellent service.QD‑5, Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, tel. +372 56 90 37 03, www.kokteilibaar.ee. Open Wed, Thu 12:00-02:00; Fri 12:00-03:00; Sat 15:00-03:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Age restriction 18+. B­E­J­6­W Frank Underground Brought to you by the creative minds who envisioned Frank Bistroo, just a few doors down, this is the quintessential cocktail bar - dimmed lights, but not too dark, richly upholstered leather booths, dark wooden accents and works of art from across the globe adorn the walls. Frank Underground brings the silver screen to life, only in technicolour, and if you spend some time here you’ll probably forget you’re even in modern-day Tallinn. At its heart though are the fantastic cocktails - both classic and newly imagined served up by mixologists who truly know their stuff.QC‑5, Sauna 2, tel. +372 623 30 59, www.frankbistro.ee. Open 18:00-02:00; closed Sun, Mon, Tue. B­J­6­W Sazerac They call themselves a ‘Bar & Grill’ but we didn’t happen to see any food when we last checked in. However, we did see and indeed drink a few fancy cocktails here. The drinks menu is rather extensive and the bartenders are more mixologists than mere beer-slingers. An artsy and stylish interior combined with creatively crafted drinks make this an excellent spot to start or end an evening.QC‑5, VäikeKarja 8, tel. +372 53 91 97 45. Open 20:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00, closed Mon, Sun. J Sessel Speakeasy bar Sessel is, well, special. Not your typical cocktail lounge, this nightspot is a mix of a trendy/artsy underground lounge, with a plethora of quirky retro fittings, a smattering of gaudy, lush furniture, and with just enough bling - yet not at all pretentious. It has the cosy feel of a second living room - if only your living room looked this nice, had a well stocked bar and bartenders that could whip you up the best vintage, and signature cocktails on a whim.

They also host various special events each month including, intimate concerts, film nights, DJs, stand-up comedy shows, and open mic nights among other happenings.

This is a place you’ll want to hang around at, if you can even manage to leave at all. QC‑3, Viru 3, tel. +372 55 94 84 94, www.sessel.ee. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. P­E­J­6­W Sigmund Freud Bar This funky cocktail bar has received nothing but rave reviews, including from us. The talented bartenders are skilled in making inventive, as well as classic cocktails, all for a great price, considering the top quality. In addition to the great drinks, the atmosphere and the decor is fun, yet sophisticated. We’ll be back again soon.QC‑5, Sauna 8, tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife tel. +372 53 50 33 60. Open 19:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 19:0003:00. Age restriction 18+ €€. J­6­W

karaoke

Whisper Sister Everything about Whisper Sister screams speakeasy - the lack of signage, the small gold plaque on the door with a number to call to be let in, and a doorman that greets you and leads you down the red carpeted stairs. There’s bar, the ‘living room’, with a few tables, and then the large circular room with booth-like seating and smaller glass tables. Reservations are needed for every area, except for the bar, and if you get there by 21-22, you should still be able to find a seat. Try a speciality cocktail or some craft alcohol. We quite liked the G&T - Gin & Tea with matcha tea and creme de cacao.QC‑6, Pärnu mnt. 12, tel. +372 58 74 78 37. Open 19:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 19:00-03:00. €€. J­W

Due to Tallinn’s proximity to the karaoke-loving nation of Finland, there are quite a few karaoke spots to be found here. By no means have we listed all the possible karaoke venues, but here are a few that specialise in the art of personal embarrassment.

Live entertainment Lots of pubs have weekend bands, but some places in particular are known as venues for live music. Café Amigo (see clubs) also pulls in some of Estonia’s best acts.

Gruuv Lounge Brought to you by the same folks behind Patcave, their new venture comes in the form of a lounge. You can expect the same great parties and casual vibe, and don’t worry, they still have Beer Pong. Check their FB page for more information about upcoming events.QC‑7, Pärnu mnt. 19. Open Wed, Thu 21:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 21:0006:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. X­E­6­W Helitehas Located a bit outside the centre of Tallinn, but not a deterrence if you happen to be interested in any of their concerts, special guest DJs or international acts - of which they have many. The crowd here totally depends on the programme schedule, but primarily caters to a younger audience. Make sure to check their web page for upcoming events before heading to this night destination.QJ‑8, Madara 22a, tel. +372 56 25 40 05, www.helitehas.ee.

Open Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission €10. X­U­E­L­W Philly Joe’s Jazz Club Who doesn’t love a great jazz club? From the relaxed, intimate atmosphere to the great music - it’s a night well spent. Don’t expect a bunch of fancy extras, just smooth grooves and well mixed cocktails. See website for events and details.QB‑6, Vabaduse väljak 10, www.phillyjoes. com. E­J Rock club Tapper This rock club on the edge of Tallinn’s centre holds regular rock nights, loads of local and international concerts and live events. We hear this club fits like a well worn leather jacket drenched in Jack Daniels, we’ll let you see for yourselves. See website for details.QJ‑10, Pärnu mnt 158g, tel. +372 654 75 18, www.tapper.ee. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Retroteek With over 100,000 songs to choose from and a great stage from which to sing them from, Retroteek is a favourite karaoke place for locals.QE‑6, Kaubamaja 8/ Rävala pst. 8, tel. +372 56 75 18 55. Open Tue, Wed, Thu 20:00-05:00; Fri, Sat 21:00-07:00; Sun 21:0003:00; closed Mon. Shamrock Shamrock is a favourite among Finnish, Russian and Scandinavian tourists looking for a night of cheap beer, good laughs and karaoke. Although technically Irish, don’t let the name fool you, its new digs, under Musumägi (Kissing Hill) in the Old Town bastion wall gives off a bit more of a sports bar vibe than an Irish one, but the late night parties continue and so does the multi-lingual karaoke.QD‑5, Valli 1, tel. +372 660 11 20. Open 12:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-04:00; closed Mon. B­S­J­6­W SAUNd music bar Enjoy great cocktails at this cellar bar in the Old Town, along with live music, DJs and stand-up comedy. QC‑5, Sauna 10, tel. +372 56 25 40 05. Open 20:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 20:00-05:00; closed Mon, Sun. Age restriction 18+.

E­J­6­W Urban Bar If there’s any place that embodies the upscale-but-still-hip vibe of the Rotermanni district, it’s Urban Bar. Catering to urbanites who are willing to pay a bit more for quality, the sophisticated haunt acts as a combination cocktail bar, restaurant (try the food!) and live performance venue, opening its doors only on the evenings that matter. Expect the expected contingent of bearded barmen, inventive drinks and cool acts. We suggest you book on weekends and scope out a table early if you want a decent view of the stage.QE‑4, Roseni 9, tel. +372 58 84 85 75, www.urbanbar.ee. Open Wed, Thu 18:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00; closed Mon, Tue. P­X­E­6­W Von Krahli Baar The real name is ‘Von Krahli Baar’ but regulars just call it ‘Krahl.’

This down-to-earth pub attached to a local theatre is where Tallinn’s alternative bands come to play, and naturally the crowd tends towards students, hipsters and artsy types. Decent selection of snacks and salads as well.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 10, tel. +372 626 90 90, www.vonkrahl.ee/baar1.Mon, Tue 10:30 - 22:00, Wed, Thu 10:30 - 23:00, Fri 10:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. E­J­W Winter 2019/2020

79

Nightlife Club Baila This little dance club in the heart of Old Town certainly does its best to make their clients feel like they’re relaxing, or partying it up on a tropical island somewhere instead of the somewhat chilly streets of Tallinn. From the moment you enter the door you’re greeted by a tropical aquarium, Latin rhythms and an atmosphere painted in the colours of paradise, as well as the obligatory, large tropical plants one might expect. Even the practically all-blonde female serving staff are decked out in striped sailor-tops, just adding that extra something to the vibe. The cuisine is also ‘topical-getaway’ inspired and the music will make you want to shake your money-makers, or at the very least watch others shake theirs. A huge selection of signature cocktails as well.QC‑5, Sauna 1, tel. +372 641 04 60, www.bailabaila.ee. Open Fri, Sat 22:30-05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. X­J­W

Clubs Tallinn has quite a bit to offer on the club-scene. From tacky to cutting edge, you’ll certainly find something that fits your needs. The regular admittance age to most clubs is 18+, exceptions are listed at the end of our review.

Barbar Rock club This rock club has received nothing but rave reviews from its growing loyal fanbase. Live rock and metal shows happen every Friday and Saturday, with other gigs and events happening throughout the week. Tickets are very reasonable, with prices usually starting at €6. In addition to great gigs and music, Barbar also offers a small food menu, as well as pool and darts for a small fee. Be sure to check their website for full programme details and exact ticket prices.QE‑6, Rävala pst. 8, tel. +372 58 51 81 84, www. barbarestonia.business.site. Open 17:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-04:00; closed Mon, Sun. E Café Amigo Surprisingly hip and happening for a hotel club, Amigo attracts a good mix of Finnish tourists and local party animals who tend to be slightly older than the typical club monkeys. The big draw here are the live rock and blues bands - the country’s best-loved names - that play here Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Before bands come one, DJs spin all your favorite pop dance hits from the 70s to nowadays, and always manage to fill the floor with a cross-generational crowd.QE‑5, Viru väljak 4, (Original Sokos Hotel Viru), tel. +372 680 93 80, www.amigo.ee.

Open 22:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission €7 - 10. Age restriction 21+. X­U­E­ W

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app 80 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Club Hollywood If there’s one club in Tallinn that’s guaranteed to be jumping, it’s Hollywood. Located in a historical theatre, this melting-pot for tourists, and Tallinn’s young and youngat-heart party crowd, usually ends up being a full-house.

Featuring loads of funky events as well as some great local and international djs on the decks, it’s hard not to get your groove on. Their VIP experience is excellent and they boast the largest video screen in Estonia - making a night out here a worthy expedition. Wednesday night is ladies night, i.e. free entrance for the fairer sex, which pretty much guarantees a good time for the lads as well. See website for full programme and VIP details.QC‑5, Vana-Posti 8, tel. +372 59 12 42 00, www.clubhollywood.ee. Open Wed, Thu 23:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00; closed Sun, Mon, Tue. Admission €5 - 10. X­E­J

Club Hollywood

Club Münt Münt, which means both mint and coin in Estonian, probably won’t leave your breath fresh and tasty but certainly will leave more coin in your pocket as they offer up €2 drinks. Expect all the grown-up fun that a place offering such cheap drinks has to offer and a healthy dose of girls tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife wearing the amount of clothing a girl who can only afford €2 drinks might be wearing.QC‑5, Müürivahe 22, www. clubmynt.eu. Open Wed, Thu 23:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 23:0005:00. Closed Mon - Tue, Sun. Admission €7 - 9. J

In recent years, wine bars have emerged as a sophisticated, mature alternative in this overly beer-centric town.

Club Studio Young, hip and one helluva queue to get into the place kind of gives you the idea of what Studio is all about. Probably the most popular place at the moment for the 18-25 crowd, Studio actually pumps out some pretty quality music from genres most of us ‘old’ people have never heard of. If you enjoy a youthful and fun vibe, you’ll fit in just fine.

QC‑5, Sauna 1, tel. +372 55 99 25 57, www.clubstudio. ee. Open Fri, Sat 24:00-05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €10. Age restriction 20+. X­J­W

new Decanter Centrally located in Tallinn’s Old Town, Decanter is a good choice for a cosy gathering with friends or a fun night out on one of their live music evenings. Decanter boasts a selection of rare boutique wines, but really there is something for every budget. Check their Facebook page for upcoming events and tastings. QD‑4, Uus 7, tel. +372 55 65 78 96, www.decanter.ee. Open Wed 17:00-23:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00-01:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. J

Klubi Teater Currently one of our favourites and one of the most interesting and elaborate clubs in Tallinn, Teater takes advantage of its location in an old theatre and certainly provides the club-goer with a theatrical experience. The décor is 1930’s-inspired, the large cigar lounge is a nice touch as are the ‘showgirls’. Drinks can tend to be a bit pricey, but the overall ambiance, live performances and the opportunity to mingle with an upwardly mobile and more mature crowd makes it all worth it. There’s a swanky VIP lounge for cardholders (can be ordered online or for an extra fee at the door) and a lounge within a club called Taboo.QC‑6, Vabaduse väljak 5, tel. +372 56 88 44 44, www.klubiteater.ee. Open Fri, Sat 24:00-05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €8 - 15. Age restriction 21+.

X­E­W

Flamm Named after the famous Alsatian ‘flammkuchen’, a thin crust pizza-like dish, Flamm is one of many addition to rapidly developing Rotermanni area. This hip little bar and kitchen is perfect for after work drinks and snacks. While we would have liked the base of our ‘flammkuchen’ to be thinner, the toppings were exact and the service, friendly.

QE‑4, Rotermanni 2, tel. +372 53 33 71 54. Open 12:00 22:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, closed Sun. €€.

Privé Along with Teater and Vabank, the smaller Privé is considered one of Tallinn’s three trendiest club destinations.

Open Thursday through Saturday, each night of the weekend promises a very cool scene where you’ll hear the region’s or world’s hottest DJs and other fun events. Ask about their VIP packages.QB‑6, Harju 6, tel. +372 56 70 59 99, www.prive.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00. Closed Mon - Wed, Sun. Admission €9 - 15. Age restriction 20+.

X­E­J Venus Club Rows of classical cherub statues added to an Arabian desert motif are certainly over the top, but we think the überkitsch decor helps to create a great party atmosphere.

Open six days a week, indeed the party never seems to stop. The excellent bartenders mix fantastic cocktails and there are loads of special events to keep things hopping and interesting. This place is really all about having a great time and the vibe here isn’t as serious as some of the ‘Elite’ clubs in town - which is in our opinion a good thing. It’s also one of the few clubs in town where you can often find people dancing before midnight.QD‑5, Vana-Viru 14, tel. +372 551 99 99, www.venusclub.ee. Open 23:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00; closed Mon. Admission €0 - 10. Age restriction 21+. X­J facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Wine bars

new OTTO’s Wine & Tapas Bar This new wine and tapas bar can be found just outside of the Old Town, next to Emmeline & Otto restaurant. The story goes that Otto, the first son of Baron Theophil von Stackelberg used to invite friends for afternoon drinks, which often turned into evening drinks, and soon the Stackelberg Manor became the place to go. Otto’s Wine & Tapas bar continues this tradition, offering wine and food in their cosy space. Stop in for a glass of wine before or after dinner, either way, the restaurant is just down the hall.

QJ‑7, Toompuiestee 23, tel. +372 660 07 11, www. restoemmeline.ee/ottos-wine/menu/. Open 15:00 22:00. Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 6­W

Otto’s Wine & Tapas Bar

Winter 2019/2020

81

Nightlife adult entertainment

Paar Veini Certainly not as ‘posh’ as many of its counterparts, ‘Couple of Wines’ caters to the less sophisticated wine-drinker as is evident in their bohemian-like décor and a relatively inexpensive wine-list - not to say that their wines aren’t sophisticated. This is the place for the kind of people who enjoy a glass of wine, but don’t want the snobbery of what usually goes along with it. Great spot to sip a few glasses and enjoy pleasant conversation among friends before hitting the clubs.QC‑5, Sauna 1, tel. +372 660 30 36, www. paarveini.ee. Open Mon, Tue 18:00-24:00; Wed, Thu 18:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-04:30; closed Sun. J­6­W Pan Y Vino Great wines, friendly service and some tasty but simple food, make this wine bar both popular and a really nice spot to spend a few hours with a small group or a loved one. The Peruvian owner has worked in the industry for years and he takes a lot of pride in making everyone feel at home and comfortable - so much so that you’ll probably want to come back for more.QC‑3, Lai 35, tel. +372 525 85 17. Open 16:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€. B­S­J­6­W Pazzo Wine Bar This cosy wine bar, run by the team behind Leib and Umami, is a real treat. Not only can you sample wines by the glass, but you can choose between different flights of three wines to learn a little bit more about what you’re drinking. Most of the wines are selected and imported by the bar from small European wineries and the small snack menu offers flavourful, local bites to compliment the list. QC‑3, Pagari 1, tel. +372 58 66 95 05, www.pazzo. ee. Open 18:00-01:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. J­6­W Time to Wine Bar & Shop While wine bars have been opening up all over the place in Tallinn, Time to Wine stands out from rest, as it’s the only “self-service” wine bar. What does that mean exactly?

There are 22 different wines to choose from, which you can drink as much or as little of, as you like. It’s all registered on a chip card. If that’s not enough, there are many more bottles to choose from, which you can take home to try instead.QA‑3, Kopli 6, tel. +372 55 51 81 50, www. timetowine.ee. Open 14:00 - 23:00. Mon, Sun 15:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. €€.

82 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Don’t expect to partake from afar. If they perform on stage at all, dancers in Tallinn’s striptease clubs typically visit the tables, getting up close and personal to collect tips. While between performances on the stage, other dancers will try to coax you into buying an expensive ‘ladies’ cocktail’, which is essentially a huge tip for sitting with you and making dull small talk. Lately it seems that ‘Gentlemen’s’ clubs have been popping up in every shady corner of Old Town, here we have listed just a few of them - but beware, most clubs will either try to rip you off in one way or another, especially the ones we don’t have listed.

Strip Clubs Casanova Club Probably one of the most beautifully designed adult entertainment spots in Tallinn, Casanova is brilliantly decorated in an ‘Arabian Nights’ motif and certainly reminds one of a stylish harem. The rest of the details are pretty much the same as the majority of these kind of clubs in the city - if you’re lucky though, you’ll meet a girl who is a smart business woman and will offer to do a floor show even if there aren’t any scheduled.

QC‑5, Suur-Karja 13, tel. +372 631 49 00, www. casanovaclub.ee. Open 22:00-05:00; closed Mon. Admission €8. X­J­W The Score This small club just on the edge of Old Town provides two things that most men love best - naked women and sports. Alongside the traditional plush seats and stripper poles you’ll also find more than a few flat screens playing the latest game involving - well, balls.

QD‑5, Vana-Viru 14, tel. +372 642 04 44, www. thescore.ee. Open 09:00-07:00. Admission €5 - 10.

Age restriction 21+. X­J­W­D X-Club One of the most sophisticated clubs of this type in Tallinn, X-Club is favoured by businessmen and high-end bachelor parties. The luxurious interior puts you in the mood instantly; friendly and professional staff add to the relaxed and pleasurable atmosphere. There are many forms of entertainment: the main hall provides graceful dance performances, you can order a private show of your choosing - from a delicate water show to an edgy torture chamber experience - or you can be the star of the night and give a dazzling show at newly opened and well-equipped karaoke hall. Thrill and enjoyment await!QB‑6, Harju 6, tel. +372 631 05 75, www.xclub.ee. Open 21:00-06:00. Age re‑ striction 21+. Admission €10. X­L ­J ­W

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

STRIP POKER

WATER POOL

KARAOKE HALL

WATER POOL

GENTELMAN’S CLUB

TAKE A PICTURE

OF THIS AD

AND ENTER FREE

TOPLESS

SHOW IT AT THE ENTRANCE

KARAOKE HALL

PRIVATE SHOW

WATER POOL

STRIP POKER

STRIP POKER

TOPLESS SHOW

PRIVATE SHOW

KARAOKE HALL

TOPLESS SHOW

TOPLESS

PRIVATE SHOW

Harju str. 6, Old Tallinn

www.xclub.ee OPEN EVERY DAY 21:00-06:00 +372 6310575

Hotels Tallinn’s hospitality industry has pretty much reached capacity and the total number of rooms sits at over 7800. For the tourist this means the choice of where to stay has never been better, and the room rates are also likely to remain competitive. With the exception of the five-star hotels listed in the Cream of the Crop category, the price bands used refer to the rack rate for a double room.

Cream of the crop Schlössle The elegance, history and warmth of its three attached Old Town buildings are a major part of Schlössle’s fivestar appeal. Over the past decade this luxury hotel has played host to musicians and heads of state, but even if you aren’t rock or royalty, the helpful and friendly staff will treat you as such. A beautiful medieval lobby, a crackling fireplace and a world class restaurant invite you to linger and stay just one more night.QC‑4, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. +372 699 77 00, www.schloesslehotel.com. singles €199 - 349, doubles €199 - 349, suites €309 - 1500 Extra bed €75, pets €32. Z­P­G­U­I­J­6­W­K­H­D hhhhh St. Petersbourg Aristocrats in the 19th century would stay at the St. Petersbourg when visiting Tallinn, likewise 21st-century travellers looking for luxury Old Town accommodation can find it here at the city’s oldest, continuously-running hotel. Completely renovated to keep pace with newer rivals, the hotel treats its guests with modern comforts like deluxe artdeco furnishing and plush bathrobes, all the while retaining a strong sense of old world charm.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 7, tel. +372 628 65 00, www.hotelstpetersbourg.com. singles €150 - 300, doubles €150 - 300, suites €260 - 450 Extra bed €75, pets €32. Z­P­G­U­I­J­6­W­K­ H­D hhhhh The Three Sisters Hotel This luxury hotel built into three famous medieval houses on the end of Pikk tänav provides the quintessential Tallinn experience. The top-notch establishment offers large rooms decorated in a striking blend of modern and antique styles. Flat-screen TVs can be found alongside old-fashioned bathtubs and hidden staircases. One suite even sports a grand piano. The staff will cater to your every whim here and almost every request a guest might have will be taken care of. The world-class SÖE restaurant is just icing on an already delicious cake. Beware though, if you do check-in, you may never want to leave.

QC‑3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. +372 630 63 00, www.3s.ee. singles €120 - 150, doubles €140 - 185, suites €320 365 Extra bed €55, pets €25. G­U ­J ­R ­6 ­W ­K ­H hhhhh

Read more reviews online: tallinn.inyourpocket.com 84 Tallinn In Your Pocket

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning Z Anti-allergy rooms O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Free parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old Town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

Spa hotels Each of the spa hotels below offers accommodation as well as treatment packages and day spa services. Prices here are for accommodation only, check their websites for details on their package deals.

Kalev Spa Hotel & Water Park The newly renovated Kalev Spa Hotel & Water Park is back open for business. This favourite Old Town spa and hotel has everything you need for a relaxing weekend or lazy afternoon. New additions include the spacious restaurant Allee with a terrace overlooking Kanuti park, a fabulous water park, a sauna and jacuzzi area, as well as a Health & Beauty Centre. All rooms are bright and offer all the comforts you may need. If you’re travelling with kids, ask about rooms with pull-down bunk beds.

The room price also includes unlimited use of the water park and gym. QD‑4, Aia 18 / Kanuti 2, tel. +372 649 33 00, www.kalevspa.ee. singles €77 - 124, doubles €88 - 135, suites €230 - 269, family rooms €175 - 213 Extra bed €32, pets €22. Z­P ­G ­U ­J ­R ­6 ­W ­K­ C­D ­F­w Metropol Spa Hotel Located in the fashionable and eatery-packed Rotermann Quarter, this sparkling new addition to Tallinn’s accommodation scene offers guests more than just a great place to lay their heads. Featuring a wellness and spa centre (free of charge for hotel guests) with a pool, several saunas, and a couple of jet pools, as well as a bar, it’s the perfect place to unwind after spending the day exploring Tallinn. You’ll also find not one, but two restaurants on-site in addition to a very stylish bar, with live music on weekend nights. For those that enjoy a cigar, cigarette or electronic smoking device, you’ll find the smoking lounge both well ventilated and a classy place to indulge.QE‑4, Roseni 9, tel. +372 667 46 00, www. metropol.ee. doubles €90 - 120, suites €250 - 300 Ex‑ tra bed €30. Parking €15/ night. P­U ­W ­K ­H ­C­ D­F­w tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Hotels Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel Gigantic, bare-breasted sirens flanking the doors and a bright, groovy lobby bar are your first clues that this place is far bolder than your average spa hotel. Apart from its signature Aqua Spa, spa packages and guest rooms - some of which overlook the decadent pool bar in the hotel’s central atrium - the high-tech establishment near the passenger port offers seven conference rooms, a Fidel cigar bar and a beauty salon.QE‑2, Sadama 11a, tel. +372 630 10 00, www.tallinkhotels.com/tallink-spa-conferencehotel. doubles €119 - 169, suites €159 - 219 Extra bed €30. P­G­T­U­R­W­K­H­C­D hhhh

Over €100 Centennial Hotel Tallinn Centennial offers a stylish and cosy place to lay one’s head while visiting the city. Although it has the feeling of a business-class hotel, and certainly suits that role just fine, the Centennial offers up plenty of comfort and cosiness for those on a romantic getaway or a city break in this historic ‘village’. The standard rooms are certainly adequate for most purposes, but if you’re looking for something a little more spacious with a few extra creature comforts make sure to check out one of the ‘Zen’ or ‘Zen Deluxe’ rooms. The onsite restaurant comes highly recommended, the menu is both creative and fresh and the bar certainly a nice place to unwind or take in a nightcap.QJ‑8, Endla 15, tel. +372 647 47 00, www. centennialhoteltallinn.com. singles €60 - 120, doubles €65 - 125, triples €95 - 155, suites €80 - 200 Extra bed €15.

Z­P­G­U­L­W­K Merchant’s House This beautiful structure is essentially a 14th century merchant’s house turned into a luxury, boutique-style hotel, so don’t be surprised if you get lost in the twists and turns of its corridors. Each of its rooms and suites has been done up with cool, chic decor, tastefully fitted to the historic building. Look for creature comforts like plasma TVs, high-speed Internet and fluffy bathrobes. You’ll also find a ‘relax room’, a design shop and café.QB‑5, Dunkri 4/6, tel. +372 697 75 00, www.merchantshousehotel.com. singles €65 100, doubles €70 - 110, suites €125 - 160 Extra bed €26.

Z­G­I­J­R­W­H­D­w My City Hotel One of the finest examples of a beautiful, Stalin-era building next to the Sõprus cinema, My City Hotel offers marblesque stylishness right in the heart of Old Town. In fact this hotel is right in the middle of Tallinn’s entertainment district. You’ll also find lots of extras right in the hotel and breakfast is served in-room by request. Business travellers will appreciate the small conference facilities and free WIFI throughout the hotel. Pricier superior rooms are more spacious and have better views and are equipped with coffee making facilities.QC‑5, Vana-Posti 11, tel. +372 622 09 00, www.mycityhotel.ee. singles €85 - 105, doubles €95 - 115 Extra bed €30, pets €20, parking €20/night.

Z­P­J­6­W­K­H­D hhhh facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app The von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn A trend setter with its too-cool style and creature comforts, The von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn offers well-outfitted and comfortable rooms just steps away from Toompea. They have several classes of rooms available, but our personal favourite happens to be the larger ‘Zen’ rooms - which offer extra perks such as slippers, bathrobes and aromatherapy amenities to spoil your inner child. The level of service here is also top-notch.

QJ‑7, Toompuiestee 23, tel. +372 660 07 00, www. vonstackelberghotel.com. singles €69 - 189, doubles €79 - 236 Extra bed €35, pets €50. Z­P ­I ­R ­6 ­W­ K­H ­C ­D­w

Price €60 - 100 Bern Hotel Bern, which is tucked into a courtyard that’s conveniently across from a grocery store, aims to bring its guests the best in Swiss-style hospitality with its friendly and professional staff. Due to size restrictions the 50room establishment hasn’t got many perks, but it does have a 24- hour bar, and breakfast is served in their petite, in-house restaurant.QD‑4, Aia 10, tel. +372 680 66 30, www.tallinnhotels.ee. singles €84 - 155, doubles €88 - 165, deluxe €176 - 243 Extra bed €35, pets €16.

P­G ­U ­J ­6 ­W ­K ­D ibis Tallinn Center ibis Tallinn offers all the basic comforts you would expect from this international chain. Centrally located just outside of the Old Town, the rooms are functional, comfortable and clean. All rooms have been specially designed to keep outdoor noise to a minimum. Ask about one of five rooms with a sauna when booking.QL‑8, Juhkentali 28, tel. +372 699 44 99, www.ibistallinncenter.ee. sin‑ gles €60 - 70, doubles €65 - 80, triples €76 - 90. Z­P­ U­W ­K ­H

Modern and functional rooms at ibis Tallinn Centre

Winter 2019/2020

85

Hotels Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn Within a brief walking distance from Old Town, the five-storey Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn is a bright and modern hotel. All rooms offer air conditioners, coffee/ tea-making facilities, mini-bars and free WIFI, In addition to that, the spacious ‘Zen’ and ‘Zen Delux’ rooms include, flat-screen televisions and Jacuzzis. Check out the authentic Italian restaurant with its lunch specials.

In the summer they also have a spacious outdoor courtyard patio.QJ‑8, Endla 23, tel. +372 666 48 00, www. kreutzwaldhotel.com. singles €50 - 145, doubles €55 - 155, triples €70 - 165 Extra bed €30. P­G ­U­ L­R ­W ­K ­H ­D­w Tallink City Hotel The Tallink ferry line made absolutely no compromises on quality when they installed their sparkling, mirrored hotel in downtown Tallinn. The full-service facility provides all the right touches, from conference rooms and chic restaurant. Finnish guests in particular will appreciate the nightclub and free morning sauna. Rooms are done up in a bright, sharp, contemporary style, with the higher priced ‘de Luxe’ doubles providing a lot more space.QE‑5, A. Laikmaa 5, tel. +372 630 08 00, www.tallinkhotels. com/tallink-city-hotel. doubles €104 - 209, Business €114 - 224 Extra bed €30. P­G­T­U­R­W­K­H­ D­F hhhh

Hostels Due to the nature of hostels, they seem to come and go from year to year and new ones are popping up all the time. Likewise they also close down quite frequently and or change their names. Although not a complete list, here we have listed some of the more important and or centrally located ones.

Academic Hostel If you like affordable and comfortable accommodation with great service, the Academic Hostel is just for you. This hostel is well suited for both individual guests and families. It’s located about 5 km from the city centre, on the grounds of the Tallinn University of Technology. You will find excellent sports facilities as well as other amenities nearby. Take trolleybus N°3 from Vabaduse väljak to the Keemia stop. QAkadeemia tee 11/1, tel. +372 620 22 75, www.academichostel.com. 108 Total rooms Twin room €37, extra bed €16, pets €12, breakfast €4. G­U­L­ R­6­W

Under €60 Although there are loads of hostels around town, the free-spirited often communal living feel of them is not for everyone - especially if you are looking for something a little more private. Here are some alternatives.

City Hotel Tallinn In what seems to be a new trend in the city, the Unique Hotel has converted some of their rooms to a no-frills concept. You can expect the same quality and modern rooms as before, just without the costly extras, such as roomcleaning and towel changes. These of course can be purchased for an additional charge along with other services.

We think it’s a great option for those on a budget, who don’t want a ‘budget’ room. Check-in is right next door at The von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn.QJ‑7, Paldiski mnt. 3, tel. +372 660 07 00, www.uniquecityhotel.com. singles €25 - 75, doubles €24 - 80, triples €42 - 95 Extra bed €25, pets €20. Breakfast €10. G­U­L­6­W Tallink Express Hotel The smart-looking structure 300m from the passenger port is home to a sparklingly modern and orderly hotel that caters to visitors who want easy access to both the Old Town and to Helsinki-bound ships. Guests are treated to free wireless internet, and should consider trying out the hotel’s famed soup buffet.QE‑2, Sadama 9, tel. +372 667 87 00, www.tallinkhotels.com/tallink-express-hotel. doubles €59 - 179 Extra bed €30. G­T­U­R­W­K hhh 86 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Cheerful rooms at Academic Hostel

Hostel Lai 22 After a merger between two of Tallinn’s best hostels, Lai 22 is still one of our favourites. Centrally located in the Old Town, guests are welcomed with a free shot and a map. The staff are eager to tell you all about the city. Rooms are clean and comfortable, each with a shared bathroom and hairdryer. There’s a bar, shared lounge, and garden, oh, and free WiFi, too. If you’re looking for a fun night out, be sure to sign up for their famous pub crawl. QC‑4, Lai 22, tel. +372 601 17 71, www.toth.ee/tallinn-backpackers. doubles €35, quads €56 - 64, place in dorm €11 - 15. J­R­W Old Town Backpackers Owners insist it’s ‘not for tourists, only for travellers’, so put on your best hippy-backpacker attitude if you plan to stay here. The centrally-located hostel on Uus Street is basically a dorm with six beds. It boasts a huge guest kitchen, sauna, laundry facilities, Internet-connected computer and WIFI.QD‑4, Uus 14, tel. +372 53 51 72 66, www. tallinnoldtownbackpackers.com. 6 beds €15/person.

J­W­D tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Living in Tallinn

We hope you’ve enjoyed your visit to Tallinn - we think it’s a charming city full of surprises and excitement, and we hope you agree. If you’ve had a good time as a visitor here, whether you came on a business trip, or as a tourist, maybe you ought to consider living and working in the Estonian capital, where doing business is simple and efficient. It’s easy to get to work here in Tallinn, and there are many organisations ready and waiting to help you, like Settle in Estonia Program.

Welcoming Programme is a state provided and free of charge national programme, designed to make it easy as possible for newly arrived foreigners to join in with Estonian life, and to get used to the business, study and leisure culture. Participating in the programme will give you a wealth of information on everyday life in Estonia, plus how to study at university, how to get lessons in the Estonian language, and much more.

There’s plenty of additional information on online resources about life in Tallinn. One of the best places to go is good old Facebook - the social network is still a great way to find out about places and events, wherever you are. One of the more informative groups is Expats in Tallinn/Estonia, which carries hints and tips on everything. Be warned: although the group is, shall we say, enthusiastically moderated, you may get the occasional spiky response to a standard query. Don’t let it put you off - this is a mine of worthwhile information.

There’s also the excellent independent blog Expat in Estonia. This is filled with compelling content on everything from what to do on a cold autumn day, right through to the thorny question of how to find housing in Estonia if you’re coming into the country. For serious business queries and help finding work, the Expat Jobs in Tallinn Facebook group is ideal, given that it’s where recruiters regularly post advertisements, and it’s also a place where jobseekers can be sure hundreds, sometimes thousands, of people will see their posts. Also operating in Tallinn and helping people settling in Estonia with the administrative workload, and all other matters related to adaptation, is Expat Relocation Estonia, which offers a wide range of services for those who have relocated, or are about to relocate. It’s staffed by Estonians who have a strong corporate background, and is worth a look. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Everyone needs to let their hair down from time to time, and the CS Tallinn Facebook group, linked to the global Couchsurfing network, always has a meeting or event in a restaurant or bar that you can attend, even if you’re not a member of the parent site. The International Table, happening weekly at cafes and bars across Tallinn, is a get-toknow-you event organised by youth and student leadership organisation AIESEC in Estonia, but you will find that everyone is welcome. Finally, InterNations is a long-established international community for expats, and it holds monthly meetings at which there is often a high concentration of IT and startup employees, but where you can doubtless find someone who has something in common with your own experiences.

Organisations Estonian language house Estonian is a truly unique language, but learning it can be quite daunting. The Estonian Language House is here to help. With various opportunities for learning like language courses, online studies, writing aids, tandem studies (learn Estonian with a native speaker who wants to learn your native tongue), language cafés (enrich your language skills in a casual environment), and Estonian cultural clubs (visits to local cultural events). Best of all, everything related to language studies is free! Yes, free! There’s no excuse not to learn Estonian.QE-6, Rävala 5, tel. +372 659 90 22, www.meis. ee/en/estonian-languages-houses. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Fri 09:00 - 16:00, closed Sat, Sun. International House of Estonia The International House of Estonia is a one-stop-shop for internationals in Estonia. The Centre facilitates communication with the state, provides counselling and aims to help create a network. The services provided are aimed at internationals (mainly specialists) who have come to Estonia to work or to study, but there are also services for families and companies looking to hire international talent. QM-9, Valukoja 8, C Wing, I floor, tel. +372 627 97 01, www.workinestonia. com/internationalhouse. Open 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun. Winter 2019/2020

87

Living in Tallinn

Tiziana Galea Schembri is a ceramics artist and dentist from Malta who came to Tallinn a year ago to find work-life balance, develop her craft, and leave the stress of life in London behind.

What originally brought you to Estonia and where are you from?

On completing my studies in Malta, I concluded that the island was getting a bit too cramped for my liking and at 25 decided to move and work abroad. I first settled in Scotland and lived for three years in Edinburgh. After that, I spent the rest of the 10 years in London. At the time, my husband had started working for an Estonian based startup called LINGVIST, and during the first 4 years, I visited Tallinn a few times.

Last year, we decided to spend a few months in Tallinn and see how it was. I spent the summer months working on my ceramic projects at Asuurkeraamika. The ceramic artists there kindly provided space at their studio for me ( a complete stranger from another country) to practice my skills. At the same time, I participated in wood-firing ceramic events and made a lot of contacts with people in the art scene. I felt that I had achieved more in those few months than I did in 4 years in London.

What were the reasons that made you want to relocate to Estonia?

When I started to compare life in the UK to life in Estonia, I noted that Tallinn was much safer and cleaner. I had missed the outdoors in London, the sea, forests, changes in scenery - Estonia offered that and more.

88 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Locals struck me as honest people who have no time for pointless chit chat or fake camaraderie. Over time we had developed a good social network and made friends.

Financially it made more sense if I wanted to develop my ceramics side business, Ceramics By Tiz. I would be able to rent a larger space for the same amount of money I spent in London, and I would be able to work less hours as a dentist, thereby freeing up more time to practice ceramics. This year I collaborated with a local chef and provided tableware for his restaurant, Yakitori, which opened last month. It was something I had been trying to do for a long time, and I was so happy when the opportunity presented itself.

I found out that it is much easier to make new contacts and collaborate with others on projects. I feel that contrary to what some people think, Estonians are very much open to new ideas. Just because they may appear cold at first, it does not mean they do not care.

Did you experience or how much of a culture shock was it for you to move here?

I did not feel much of a culture shock. There were some peculiarities that I needed to get used to, such as not asking an Estonian “how are you?�, unless I was prepared to sit down and really listen to how they are feeling or how their day/week/month has been. I came to the conclusion that Estonians are simply direct and ultimately more honest. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Living in Tallinn I have experienced sauna culture, which was quite different from what most Londoners are used to when they claim to have spent ‘a day at the spa’. I have stopped feeling selfconscious and learnt to be more comfortable in my own skin.

traditions. I have accompanied locals on mushroom and fruit forages and learned how to pickle and preserve food. I really enjoy shopping at local markets and discovering new local produce.

I have also dialled down my language as I have learnt that if something is “ok” then it’s great.

How is it to live here and does it feel like home now?

However, I have not yet been able to convince myself that pickled fish, boiled eggs and sour cream are a tasty combination.

What are some of your favourite spots in Tallinn?

I love: grabbing a good cup of coffee and bite at NOP in Kadriorg, a walk by the beach at sunset in Pirita, especially towards Haabneeme, searching for bargains at one of the Humana retro stores, and lastly, at my pottery wheel in my studio (Savimaal, Endla 64) in Kristiine.

How would you describe Estonia as a country, and Estonians?

I think Estonia is a very good-looking country. The old town is simply gorgeous, with its winding narrow streets, historic buildings and Instagram-friendly views. There is culture in abundance, especially in the arts scene. Art is given more space to develop.

I think Estonia is progressive, but still clinging to some

Overall it is easy to live and settle in Estonia. I have seen a lot of changes in the last four years in Tallinn, especially in the food and culture scene. The newly opened Fotografiska gallery was a welcome addition to the cultural scene. New restaurants and cafés are always popping up.

Technologically it was very easy to obtain an Estonian ID and register my business. In terms of ceramics, I have been able to get some of my pieces into local shops, such as LEVI in Solaris, the number of people attending pottery classes is increasing and I am hoping to work with other businesses in the near future.

What is your favourite Estonian word or words and why?

Ah, the Estonian language! I am still struggling a bit with this.

I manage to say a few words and I am slowly understanding some of the repetitive sentences I hear at work. I am not sure I have a favourite word at present, but the first thing I learned was how to thank someone in Estonian and I could not stop saying ‘aitäh’ to whoever I met, thinking I was so clever.

The full interview can be read online.

Settle in Estonia programme for new arrivals Are you considering moving to Estonia?

Or maybe you’re already living in this beautiful and innovative country?

Do you want to acquire the primary knowledge and skills to settle in as fast as possible? To get you acquainted with the Estonian way of life, Estonia offers you a comprehensive Settle in Estonia programme.

Investing in your future

SETTLE IN ESTONIA PROGRAMME (free of charge) consists of various informative and interactive TRAINING MODULES: •

BASIC MODULE which gives an overview of the Estonian state, society, culture and people, also rights and obligations of residents, public services etc;

•

THEMATIC MODULES which give an overview of working and entrepreneurship, family life, studying and research;

•

SEPARATE TRAINING MODULES for children under the age of 15 and for the beneficiaries of international protection;

•

BASIC LEVEL ESTONIAN LANGUAGE TRAINING (level A1).

More information about the programme and registration: www.settleinestonia.ee; info@settleinestonia.ee SettleinEstonia

facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Winter 2019/2020

89

Shopping & Directory

Staapli 3 Art Gallery and Art Cafe - bringing a splash of colour to your life! Please see reviews on pages 41 and 91. Photo: Andrei Chertkov

There are plenty of opportunities to spend money shopping in Tallinn. Old Town is literally lined with dozens of souvenir, antique and speciality stores. Within Old Town the main shopping streets are Viru, Müürivahe, Suur-Karja, Väike-Karja and Kullassepa. The most central shopping centre is Viru Centre with Tallinna Kaubamaja department store right next door. Alongside its stunning, ‘new meets old’ architecture, the Rotermann Quarter features dozens of unique shopping and dining experiences. Other smaller malls include the Foorum Centre and the Solaris Centre.

Bookshops You won’t find a great selection of books in English or other foreign languages in Tallinn, but you won’t be left without any reading material either. Rahva Raamat has the widest selection of English language novels.

Apollo bookstore A good selection of English-language novels and travel guides.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 633 60 00, www.apollo.ee. Open 10:00-21:00.

Puänt A great little shop for books, stationery, and vinyl.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 60A, tel. +372 58 87 66 03, www.puant.ee.

Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-17:00.

Rahva Raamat Rahva Raamat has probably the best selection of English books in Estonia. With two levels (the first floor has a 1930s feel with plenty of cosy corners for reading), two cafés, and plenty of, well, books, it’s easy to get lost in a good story here. QC‑6, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. +372 644 36 82, www. rahvaraamat.ee. Open Mon, Tue 08:00-20:00; Wed, Thu 08:00-23:00; Fri 08:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:0020:00.

90 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Commercial galleries and art shops Asuur Keraamika Located inside one of Tallinn’s medieval defence towers Asuur might just be one of the most unique ceramic boutiques/workshops around.QB‑3, Kooli 7, tel. +372 646 40 96, www.asuurkeraamika.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun. Bogapott Not only is it a cosy little café (see Cafés), it’s also an artist’s studio, where you can see the craftsmen at work and a gallery/shop where you can view and purchase their unique hand-crafted, earthen wares.QB‑5, Pikk jalg 9, tel. +372 631 31 81, www.bogapott.ee. Open 10:00-19:00.

Fe Gallery At Fe Gallery, you can find a variety of quirky and classical pieces by local artists including metal, ceramics, glass, textiles, and jewellery.QB‑5, Lühike jalg 1, tel. +372 53 44 79 22, www.artfe.eu. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Also at: B-5, Lühike jalg 8. Open 11:00 - 18:00.

Helina Tilk Joyful hand-painted porcelain, glass and ceramics by an Estonian artist.QB‑5, Rataskaevu 6, tel. +372 646 42 80, www.helinatilk.com. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:0015:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. Also at: C-4, Pikk 41, tel 641 45 15.

Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Kunstiaken This gallery and shop offers textiles, glass, ceramics, leather, and more, all designed and made by Estonian artists.QC‑4, Vene 20, tel. +372 646 42 09, www. kunstiaken.ee. Open 10:00-18:00. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Shopping & Directory Lühikese Jala Galerii Beautifully displayed ceramics, glass and textiles.QB‑5, Lühike jalg 6, tel. +372 631 47 20, www.t6nis2.wixsite. com/lj-galerii. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun, Sat 10:00-17:00.

Okapi An art and design gallery that also functions as a glass studio. They sell Estonian applied arts, photography, design and graphic works.QB‑5, Niguliste 2, tel. +372 56 88 14 34, www.okapi.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00.

Staapli 3 Art Gallery and Art Café This Noblessner Port area commercial gallery and café has something for every taste and budget, served up with a side of coffee and cake. Please read more about them in our Noblessner section on page 41.QJ‑6, Staapli 3-114, tel. +372 660 22 11, www.staapliart.ee. Open 10:00-20:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00-20:00.

Tauno Kangro Gallery Estonia’s top sculptor has a wide variety of works for sale, including large and miniature sculptures as well as pastel drawings. Here you can find exquisite nudes, game animals and mythological pieces at reasonable prices. For larger items, international shipping also available.QD‑4, Uus 20, tel. +372 641 10 02, www.skulptuuristuudio. ee. Open during business days 09:00 - 17:00, most of the time. It’s adviseable to call ahead though.

estonian design Although we haven’t made a final count of all the souvenir shops and boutiques in Old Town there appear to be thousands of them. This makes it pretty hard for the tourist, not to mention locals, to find souvenirs, fashion, art and other handicrafts that are truly Estonian - either made here or conceived and designed here. Listed below you can find a number of shops, products and boutiques that specialise in bringing authentic Estonian goods to the public.

A-galerii Estonian-designed jewellery and fashion accessories.

QC‑4, Hobusepea 2, tel. +372 646 41 01, www. agalerii.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun. Eesti Juveel Find a large variety of gold and silver jewellery, as well as a rich selection of silverware and tableware.QC‑5, Pärnu mnt. 8, tel. +372 644 42 16, www.juveel.ee. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. Estonian Design House The Estonian Design House showcases the best of Estonian product design from interior accessories to fashion and is run by the Estonian Association of Designers.

QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris), tel. +372 53 57 11 50, www.estoniandesignhouse.ee. Open 10:00-21:00. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

made with love Estonian Folk Art and Craft Union handicraft centers & shops Selection of handicrafts by master craftsmen from all over Estonia.Qtel. +372 631 40 76, www.folkart.ee. Open 10:0018:00; Sun 10:00-17:00. Estonian Handi‑ craft House, (C-4) Pikk 22; Estonian Handicraft Home, (C-4) Vene 12; Allikamaja Handicraft, (B-5) Lühike jalg 6a; Estonian Handicraft Locomotive, (A-3) Kopli 1.

Gifts & Souvenirs The difficult challenge of selecting souvenirs that possess some practical use is actually possible to achieve in Tallinn.

However, just as in any town heavily reliant on tourism, you could also go poor buying useless crap or items that really have nothing to do with Estonia, such as the ever prevalent Russian nesting doll. Just like the nesting doll, Old Town is filled with souvenir shops, some even inside other souvenir shops. Here we have listed just a few that specialise in various gift items. See the ‘Authentic Estonian’ section for souvenirs that truly represent this country.

DEKO Local design and small factory production is tastefully combined at DEKO, where you can find unique handmade gifts items and lots of cool retro stuff too.QB‑5, Voorim‑ ehe 1, tel. +372 56 80 90 85. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Sun. Eesti Esindus Located in the Old Town, Eesti Esindus sells beautiful handicrafts directly from the artists who produce them.

QC‑4, Pikk 15, tel. +372 600 67 15. Open 10:00-20:00.

Estonia Shop This souvenir shop features different sections devoted to various handicrafts such as leather goods, local delicacies, wood items etc. The craftsmen sell their own wares and you won’t find any ‘Russian nesting dolls’ or other non-Estonian souvenirs for sale here - a plus in our books.

QC‑5, Viru 3, tel. +372 640 40 37, www.estonianshop. com/en. Open 10:00-20:00.

Winter 2019/2020

91

Shopping & Directory fact #99

vivian vau shoe salon

After Administrative-Territorial Reform, Estonia has 15 towns. And no, Tallinn is not the largest city. In fact, Estonia’s largest city is Pärnu (855 km2). Pärnu was previously measured at 32 km2, meaning it’s grown by 2600%!

The exquisite shoes and boots are made for Vivian Vau in Italy and Spain, designed to be comfortable are made of leather and come in many colours and plenty of character. Sizes from 33 - 45.QC‑5, Kuninga 1, tel. +372 641 64 40, www.vivianvau.ee. Open 11:0019:00; Sat 12:00-17:00; closed Sun.

Hää Eesti Asi Everything for sale in this large souvenir shop was either designed or produced in Estonia. From food and drink to handicrafts - it can all be found here.QD‑5, Viru 23, tel. +372 56 98 63 84. Open 10:00-20:00.

Katariina Guild Various artisan shops/workshops, including a glass studio, ceramics studio, textile studio and hat workshop among others. You can witness the creation of the products on site.QC‑4, Vene 12/Katariina käik, www.katariinagild. eu. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Sun. Labora A gift shop filled with local handmade goods, including letterpress printed greeting cards, special seed cards which you can later grow into wild flowers, mechanical wooden toys, icons, calligraphy books, limp binding notebooks and much more.QC‑4, Vene 18, tel. +372 58 80 10 98, www.labora.ee. Open 10:00-18:00.

Olde Hansa Shoppe This great medieval shop, brought to us by the folks at Olde Hansa, features authentic wares such as hand-blown glass, hand-crafted pottery, leather items and even spirits.

All of the bits and pieces here have been recreated based on countless hours of research and are replicas of items used by actual townsfolk in the days of yore. The items are even functional, which is pretty cool in our books.QC‑5, Vanaturu kael 12, tel. +372 627 90 40, www.shoppe.ee.

Open 10:00-21:00.

Oma Asi ‘The Little Red House’ Located in a cute little house just off the main square, Oma Asi is home to the work of Estonia’s most talented designers and artists, aiming to bring quality, yet affordable and unique products to customers. The shop stocks the work of over 70 local artists and about 5 guest designers. QC‑4, Saiakang 4, www.omaasi.com. Open 10:00-19:00.

92 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Karja Quarter There are many fine and upscale boutiques located in and around Old Town, however, the area between Pärnu mnt. and Harju street, centred around Suur-Karja and Väike-Karja streets (area C-5 on the map) is fast becoming the ‘luxury’ shopping destination in Tallinn. Although not, yet, officially called the ‘Karja Quarter’, it’s a name we’ve come up with to classify this district. Below you’ll find a list of many of the high-end brands, jewellers and boutiques to be found in this area. See the centre-spread (p. 50-51) for a map of the area, along with a list of our advertisers.

Burberry QC‑6, Pärnu mnt.12/Suur-Karja 20, tel. +372 631 33 24, www.ee.burberry.com/. Open 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:0016:00; Sat 11:00-18:00.

Fashion House Featuring brands such as Alberta Ferretti, Brunello Cucinelli, Fabiana Filippi, D.Exterior, Lorena Antoniazzi, Paolo Manetti and Bottega Veneta.QC‑5, Väike-Karja 12, tel. +372 627 01 97, www.fashionhouse.ee. Open 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun. Gerry Weber A dynamic lifestyle brand for women by a famous German fashion house.QD‑5, Valli 4, tel. +372 648 06 66, www. gerryweber.ee. Open 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-17:00.

Hugo Boss QB‑6, Harju 6, tel. +372 631 06 10. Open 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-16:00; Sat 11:00-17:00.

Marc Cain QC‑5, Väike-Karja 10, tel. +372 641 84 18, www. marccain.ee. Open 11:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-16:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Shopping & Directory MaxMara QC‑5, Pärnu mnt. 8, tel. +372 631 05 14, www.vendors. ee. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun. nude A luxury fashion shop selling top brands like Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Ralph Lauren, Dsquared2, and more.QC‑5, Pärnu mnt.10/ Suur-Karja 23 (women’s clothing), tel. +372 622 92 02. Men’s clothing: C-5, Pärnu mnt. 10/ Väike-Karja 12, tel. +372 628 22 72. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

Poivre Blanc High quality children’s clothing made in France and Italy, including Italian children’s shoes and accessories.QC‑6, Pärnu mnt. 12, tel. +372 56 86 35 54, www.viamigliore. com. Open 11:00-19:00.

Versace QC‑5, Väike-Karja 9, tel. +372 648 81 05, www.versace. com. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun.

Knits & Linen Rewill All the handicrafts in this tiny shop can be made to order.

QC‑5, Vene 7, tel. +372 631 33 62, www.rewill.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. Y Veta Loads of knits and linen.QB‑4, Pikk 6, tel. +372 664 44 56, www.veta.ee. Open 10:00-19:00. Also at: C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. 664 44 64. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

WOOLISH This designer Estonian knitwear and home textile brand is all about comfort and style. QC‑5, Harju 1, www.woolish. ee. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00.

pharmacies BENU Apteek A centrally-located pharmacy to suit all your health needs.

QD‑4, Aia 7, tel. +372 648 41 99, www.benu.ee. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Also at: C-4, Narva mnt. 1, tel. +372 613 07 00. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Euroapteek QB‑6, Vabaduse väljak 10, tel. +372 646 30 41, www.euroapteek.ee. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00.

Tõnismäe Apteek The most central pharmacy that stays open all night.

QJ‑8, Tõnismägi 5, tel. +372 644 22 82, www. sudameapteek.ee. Open 24hrs. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Grocieries Delice The grocery store at Solaris shopping centre not only offers a wide selection of dry and frozen international food, there is also a huge variety of vegan products, including ready-made foods.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. +372 663 13 30, www.delice.ee.

Open 09:00-23:00.

Kolmjalg (the Everything Store) Conveniently located in the Old Town, this small grocer will help you in a pinch with all the basics.QB‑4, Ra‑ taskaevu 2, tel. +372 631 15 11. Open 24hrs.

Maxima Express This two-level grocery store offers a good selection of ready-made food, snacks, and souvenirs, in addition to regular groceries.QC‑5, Viru 4, www.maxima.ee.

Open 08:00-22:00.

Rimi One of the largest grocery chains in Estonia.QD‑4, Aia 7, tel. +372 644 38 55, www.rimi.ee. Open 08:0023:00. Also at: C-4, Pikk 11, tel. (+372) 55 58 90 04.

Open 08:00 - 23:00. Also at: C-5. Viru 13/15. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Also at: K-7, Ahtri 9 (Nautica). Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Selver Selver caters to all your grocery shopping needs, with a wonderful selection of fresh produce, local and imported foods, baked good, and more.QA‑4, Toompui‑ estee 37, tel. +372 619 24 40, www.selver.ee. Open 07:00-23:00. Also at: A-4, Kopli 1 (Baltic Station mar‑ ket 0-floor). Open 08:00 - 23:00.

alcohol Please note that alcohol sales in Tallinn are prohibited from 22:00 until 10:00.

Liviko store & more Estonia’s largest and longest running alcohol producer runs a few of its own stores stocked, naturally, full of their own products and imported wares at competitive prices.QD‑4, Mere pst. 6, tel. +372 683 77 45, www. alcostore.ee. Open 10:00-20:00. Also at: G-4, Narva mnt. 7, tel. 683 77 40. Also at: G-4, Lootsi 8, tel. 660 5986.

Taptap Tallinn With over 230 different bottles from Estonia and abroad, this is a must-visit for any beer lover. Taptap also has six taps and serves Danish-style hot dogs.

QE‑4, Rotermanni 2, tel. +372 53 03 95 53, www. taptap.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

Winter 2019/2020

93

Shopping & Directory Markets

Shopping centres

Baltic Station market Just a short jaunt from Old Town, the trendy Balti Jaam market brings close to 300 different retailers and smaller producers together, offering the most fresh, interesting, and exotic goods, all under one roof. Wander through the openair market where you’ll find a great selection of produce. Inside, the meat, dairy and seafood halls offer a wide selection of primarily local products - as well as some of the freshest imported ingredients. You’ll also find a whole street food section and several eateries, with a lot of different vendors to choose from. Don’t forget about the antiques, clothing, shoes, handicrafts, brewery, supermarket, and fitness club as well - you might even be tempted to spend the whole day here, and there’s plenty of parking available in order to do just that. QA‑3, Kopli 1, tel. +372 641 34 36, www.astri. ee/bjt. Open 09:00-19:00; Sun 09:00-17:00. Street food area open daily 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

Shopping malls of various sorts have sprouted up all over town. Here’s a bit of direction for serious shoppers.

Kristiine Centre This bustling shopping mall has a wide mix of shops and services, including a large Prisma grocery store, certified Apple reseller, H&M, Reserved, Sportland, Sports Direct, Apranga, New Yorker, Jysk, Apollo, and more. It also houses O’Learys, the biggest entertainment centre in Estonia for sports events, virtual games and dining.QJ‑8, Endla 45, tel. +372 665 03 41, www.kristiinekeskus.ee. Open 10:0021:00. Prisma grocery store open 08:00 - 23:00.

Nautica With close to 60 shops and a large Rimi Hypermarket, the only one in the city centre, and a large Calle liquor store, this makes Nautica a convenient place to shop between the port and the city centre. There’s plenty of places to get a bite to eat. Enjoy the Aulis beauty salon, along with Park Minigolf and Futuruum, where you can immerse yourself in virtual reality. Q ​ K‑7, Ahtri 9, www.nautica.ee. Open 09:00-20:00.

Baltic Station Market

Central market (Keskturg) A popular destination for fresh food items. Also has clothing and other assorted ‘treasures’. Take tram N°4 from the centre towards Ülemiste, make sure to get off at the Keskturg stop.QL‑8, Keldrimäe 9. Open 07:0017:00.

Depoo Located just around the corner from Baltic Station Market, Depoo features an assortment of vendors, previously enjoyed clothes, antiques, food products and a whole lot more.QJ‑7, Telliskivi 62, tel. +372 641 34 36, www. astri.ee/depoo/.

Nautica

Solaris Solaris is both an entertainment complex and shopping centre with several local design stores and great places to eat.QD‑6, Estonia pst. 9, tel. +372 615 51 00, www. solaris.ee. Open 09:00-23:00. Shops open 10:00 - 21:00.

Restaurants open 10:00 - 23:00.

Flower market The most central and popular place to buy flowers in Old Town.QD‑5, Viru 26. Open 24hrs.

Knit market Little old ladies sell their knitwear here along the Old Town wall. Shopping here is almost a tradition for visitors.QD‑5, corner of Viru and Müürivahe. Open 09:0017:00.

94 Tallinn In Your Pocket

Solaris

tallinn.inyourpocket.com

Shopping & Directory fact #100 When it comes to winning Olympic medals, Estonia really punches above its weight. Not including the 2016 Games in Rio, it has picked up a total of 25.5 medals per million residents.

Only seven countries have a greater strike rate.

T1 Mall of Tallinn T1 features a selection of shops and boutiques, a number of restaurants and cafés, offering everything from fine dining to street food, most of which are located on the fourth floor, which also boasts a nice view of the city. For an even better view of the city, take a ride on the Skywheel. And Super Skypark also has plenty of entertainment options like a trampoline centre, 7D cinema, and interactive science centre.QM‑8, Peterburi tee 2, www.t1tallinn.com. Open 10:00-21:00. Restau‑ rant floor open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Ülemiste Centre Ülemiste centre is the most popular shopping centre in Tallinn with its cosy atmosphere and many opportunities for leisure. It’s truly a one-stop shopping centre with everything from a grocery store and electronics, to shoes and clothing for the whole family. There’s tons of great places to eat, to suit even the pickiest of eaters, as well as plenty of entertainment like the Apollo cinema and an indoor play area for kids. For serious shoppers, it’s worth the short trip from the centre. To get there take bus N°15 from the Viru bus terminal to Ülemiste jaam stop or tram N°4 from Viru stop (A-4) to the Ülemiste linnak stop. QM‑8, Suur-Sõjamäe 4, next to Tallinn Airport, tel. +372 603 49 99, www.ulemiste. ee. Open 10:00-21:00.

Ülemiste Centre

Viru Keskus This 30,000m2 shopping and dining complex is a large, but very classy addition to downtown’s commercial scene.QE‑5, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. +372 610 14 44, www. virukeskus.com. Open 08:00-21:00. Food department open 09:00 - 22:00. facebook.com/TallinnInYourPocket

Winter 2019/2020

95

DISCOVER AN IMPROVED ÜLEMISTE

2016

Award Winner

ICSC Awards 2016 Winner The Best Refurbished Shopping Center

THE COOLEST TRAMPOLINE CENTER

THE FRESHEST TASTES

Open Mon-Sun 10-21 Nr 2. Harbor - Downtown - Ülemiste - Airport Suur-Sõjamäe 4, Tallinn · ulemiste.ee

THE MOST MODERN CINEMA

B

C Kalarand

Ka lju

So

Võ rg u

PÕHJ A

aja

Põhja puiestee

ägi

Sul ev im

Vene

Pik k ev im äg i

Ol

i v a he

Sa un a

ür Val li

Ve ne

Estonian National Opera

ka

Sa

Apollo

Alexela

jak äl iv nd a l Is

D

Al lik

nu

a

ki

Lembitu park

R TE

Ta ta r

ke Ku

U LA

tte Lä

6

T PS

TS

uk Ka

he me up Ka

a

R

A AL ÄV

AN

34

Solaris

n Le

la

Bank of Estonia Museum

42

Estonia

Artis

i akr Ma

TO N

IA

42

PS T

k a e vu

Ra t as

Harju

Ants Laikmaa

Rüütli

Pikk

La bo ra to or ium i L ai Pi kk

La i li

üt

u

ht

jal g

Pik k Lüh ike j alg

ri

Ra hukoh

na Kuu

Roseni

sa

TATARI

C

i

ES K

i

B

Kaubamaja

ni an m nt Ke

ägi ism Tõn

National Library of Estonia

Mere pst

Ot

5

GONSIORI

Kaubamaja

Mart Sander's Art Gallery

la ka Sa

A. Laikmaa

A. H. Tammsaare

TU BI M LE

Tõnismägi

12

org

NI AN M

Russian Theatre

Hobujaama

1234

Estonia

Vabaduse väljak

Vabaduse väljak

NARVA MNT

Revolution of 1905

T

Ge

Foorum Centre

Hobujaama

Museum

Viru

N

4

Hotel Viru gi 1A and the KGB mä Viru Viru 34 su Viru 38 Mu1 41B 4 3 Tammsaare Centre A. Laikmaa B4 1 2 park 21

ni

Vabaduse väljak

Viru

oo Kr

4

1 1B 4 21 2 PST LI R B 42 A 1 41 1B 4 KA 21 2

St. Charles the XI's Church

TE E

M

Vabaduse väljak Vabaduse väljak

2 1B 4

rd Poo

Vabaduse väljak

Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom

Vabaduse väljak

A DL EN

A

Freedom St. John’s Sq.

tsi Roosikran

PU IE S

e

Theatre & Music Museum

ü

T EN

M

ivah Müür

Inseneri

Viru Gates

I

Museum of Estonian Architecture

RI

oterm an ni

k lja vä ri at Te

Harjumägi

Tõnismägi

ISE LU

Tõnismägi

War of Independence

e us rid Ha

7

Bastion St. Michael's Passages

i

M

Vä ike -

Tatari

TO O

ost

Koman Kiek tli dan in de Kök Rüü di t ee

ea

ari Wism

Niguliste Church Va na - Museum -P

Viru

AHT R

ROTERMANN QUARTER R

Viru market Katariin St. Catherine's Viru a käik Hellemann Tower Viru Vana-Viru Museum of Icons WW Passaaž

rja Ka

Toomp

Hirvepark

Medieval Torture Instruments

Suur-K arja

Kuberneri aed

Falgi tee

Kanuti aed

St. Nicholas'

Apteeg i

ga Kunin Orders of Knighthood

lg

K an u t i

Tallinn City Museum mu avai Mu n Püh ga Holy Spirit Church Theatrum St. Peter and Paul's

Town Hall Square

Photography kri Dun Tallinn Legends

Adamson-Eric Museum Niguliste

ja Pikk

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Kinga

Toom-Kooli

TOOMPEA

e

ng aka Sai i Münd

Ko

Vo o

eh rim

Kiriku

Great Guild Hall

Estonian Drink Culture tu ü -R om To

Dome Church

Hobusepe a

T PS

Russian Museum

e

AH T

Aia

nn

Toompark

Lindamägi

Health Museum

3

Kanuti

Uus

Nu

Prison Cells

Applied ArtVa and Design imu

i Suur-Kloostr

Uus

PU 21 OM O T

av annavär Väike R

vist e

City Theatre

Transfiguration of Our Lord

Balti jaam

St. Olaf’s

Pa ga KGB ri

da Ai

EE43 S T 41B IE21B 41

li Ko o

Tolli

Ole

Natural History

väljak

Margareeta aed

41B

ur Su

M NA

Train Station

Toompea Castle

B

1 E 1B 4 21 2 ER e M te

ja ma ala

tü ki

äe am nn

aja Vana-Kalam

ÄE

E TE

N RA Tornide

5

SadaMarket

KAI

Fat R Estonian Maritime Margaret's a Tower Museum

1 41

1B 4

21 2

ijate Reis

6

Linnahall

Rannamägi

t ps hja Balti jaam Põ Balti jaam

pli

AMA SAD

Linnahall

Kesk -K

Ko

2

PÕH JA PS T

12

Niin e

Kotzebue

e bu tze Ko

"

Rumbi

PST

Põhja puiestee

Vana-Kala m

Children's Museum

4

K

Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia

2

Baltic 1 2 Station Market

Linnahall

Fish market

o

Töös tuse

3

1

ma

i

Jah u

KALAMAJA

a gn -Ae linn Tal

Ho bu jaa

200 m

re i

a la sad am a

100

E

i

PÄ RN U

0

D

a nn ara Kal

Scale 1:10 000 1 cm = 100 m

are Pat urSu

1

Vä ike -P at a

k

OLD TOWN

Hels i n

Kü ti

A

la bo m Va

I

7

SIBULAKÜLA

E

© OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

F

G

H

I

J

TALLINN

4

Scale 1:41 000 1 cm = 410 m 500

750 m

ee

et

aa r

ja ss Pa ag i

PALJASSAARE

Maleva

e

Kopli

KARJAMAA Ko i

KALAMAJA

H

I

K alj u

No

Ao

TEHNIKA

Tiiv a

e

Ö Räh öbik u ni

Lõo kes e

di on

S

Tuisu

bi

TONDI

Se e

li oo ak õj

i nd To

JÄRVE

Tallinn

A Tondi

Kal

PÄ Vaa RN ri UM NT

Väs trik u Ha ra T ka

Käo

e

PS T RUSE SÕP

i

EE A . H. TAMMS A ARE T t ee

MUSTAMÄE

Püü e

e te

Nõ mm

SIILI

HN I

Käo

K än nu Tüv e

Ha ne

lga

L ib li k a

Hai gru

Kur e Var Vuti e se Nir gi

Kaa rna

Sip e

rd Vilde tee Edua

se Kesku

Mooni

Lille

M SÕ õtuse PR US EP ST L eh e

Ke e mia

Mo oni Vut i

MU STA MÄ ET EE Alg i

TEE

Par d

Au l i

K aj ak a

Jär ve

G

Pir ni

Humala

ki

La

SÄÄSE

Rahumäe

F

TEE JATE

ee at

A EHIT

ak ad

Ak

ee at mi

Iva i ss Ka

10

iva

ee ad

Le

e

Rä ägu

vi Ri

tee

an gu

Art elli

i

Sää

se A. H . TAM MS AAR E

L in nu te

Retke tee

t

Va Tild abl r ase i

KADAKA

Viu

Kiil i

e o ve

K

e

Ted re

Räs ta

Siili

Järveots a

te

Lak

g

ri n

se

r Jä

sa

Rä ägu

Lui ge

TE

Sp o

Nõ mm e te

Eh te

Pelgu rann a

M

Külm a Hä rma tise Lo bja ka Ha O ts lla e Siir e

a uk Lõ

PA LD ISK I

ä e te

Kullerkupu

E TE E

ak ad

E TE

ÕIS MÄ

i es

nu te

ri

-A

Marta Kotka

is m

ee at

Lin

Kau

Kristiine Centre

i

Õ

TE JA

Väike-Õismäe

ITA EH

9

rel li

T ih ase

42SUUR

M eedi Kom rni r Satu e e -Am Lu Väike Vid du Ko

EE

Meelespea

si

Ted Kul re dno ka

i

Fo

daka t ee Ka

Nurmenuku Nurmenuku

Liim

te e

Karikakra

Kir

Koidu

Tuu lik u

Ma rja

aan ika Välj a

Suve

Vär vi

lev es ki

Mureli

21 21B

Tõn

ISE Tõni LU A DL EN

Koidu

rdi

Sinilille

leh e

skl a

Falg

A. Adam

ari Wism

Taksopark

Ko

41 41B 43

Tehnika 41 41B 43

i Villard

Tallinn Zoo

a

Me h

Hotell "Tallinn"

ENDL A

Mooni

Ko

Telliskivi

Balti jaa

Kelmiküla

ika Me

T

et s

Hipodroom

i

vi

ika Tul

Tu u

43

sk im

Köömne

3 1B 4 41 4 21 21 B 42

ki llis Te

ara Mad

3

42 4

Pii be

Pirni

Rõika

ue Sa

NT I M Ristiku

IKA TUL uvitsa K ib

41B

T TE JA

N

B 41

1 21 2

ITA EH

42

Haabersti

Lo og a Ve

hu

ku sti Ri o Ro

le

Õ

Haaberesti

r t si

Looga

ea

Ro

esi Pre rde Aa LE SÕ

Mäe kõ

Sõba

Rocca al Mare Centre

I MNT DISK Zoo PAL

e Mustjõ

Mõ i s a

Mõisa

43

ina He

Aru

1B

Humala 21 21B 41 41B 42

Mustjõe ISKI MNT PALD

41 4

12

p rja Hä

lev

Va brik u

uti Tim

ISK LD PA Lille

ee at

1B

K

rre Kõ

ala Äd

21 2

Ka

Volta

lla Mu

e ts rim Me

a odi So

Vabaõhumuu seumi tee Rocca al Mare kool

Tanuma

GU

e

e ep

Rocca al Mare

A st

lm He

ROCCA AL MARE

ta Ku ng Sa la lm e

u Nis e Taim

na Au i is Ma

Lah

Estonian Open Air Museum

i

Vo l

k Ruk

Krulli

Vin di

era Ka

Sule

Kari

Vihuri

Pelguranna

7

8

st us e

PELGURANNA

Kold e pst

Hälli

Sta

pl

LE SÕ

la nd

Tö ö

Angerja

Puhangu

aba

ap li

NOBLESSNER Kalar anna

Lain

aa m ule Tu

Ra

Madala

6

Sitsi

SITSI

Pe etr i

Puuv illa

di N ii

ran na

Er ik a

na

ura n

Ko

p li

KOPLI

ru nk Sirbi

Sirbi asi Al

A

ru nk

v

Lin Sit a si

i

il b

A

s aa Kl

i

ri bu

K

Lõim

Am

Marati

a

ti ra Ma

Ma le

Pa l

e

Nee m

Treia li

Sepa S e p sta ta Sü Ket

i lur Ka

5

Ko

1, 2 pli Kopli

Pe lg

250

Church Museum Monument Bus station Train station Viewpoint Bus line Tram line

a

0

J

M

L

M

Randvere tee

N

Pirita beach

Tallinn – Nai ssaar

34A 38 1A

st M as ti

Re

U

Künnapuu

E

TE IT A

PI R M äe ka lda

ar gi

PA E

P

La sn a

ÜLEMISTE

Tõivu

jamäe

Ääsi

Valukoja

SU UR -S ÕJ AM

Kesk-Sõ

Lõõtsa

Keevise

PRO N KSI

Liiva mä e

IT EE

4

Sepise

Lennujaam

Lennart Meri - Tallinn Airport

PE TE RB UR

te

EE

ru Ved

8

ÄE

9

e

LUITE na li te

Ku lda la t ee

Su ure kiv i te e

li

10 tee ike

M

Aru he ina tee

Ka ab

ti Va

tee

re tee

MÕIGU

Lä

Aa sa

saa

tee

e

tme Juh

Mõig u

t

mn Nii ne

T

L

Hä älin urm e

MN

K

U

Ülemiste Lake

Ka

igu Mõ

EE AT AN EV V R JÄ

Va na -Ta rtu

Lee

Suit su Lu ite

Pos ka

M ere pst

L

Paa di

P i kk

Lai

V e ne

he

Ve ne

ü riva

42

Harju

M N

PÄRNU Sa ka la

34

needi

M NT

Va na -Lõ un a

RI T

Silde

U ERB PET

Vesse

PÄRN U

EE

oja

Ülemiste linnak

RT TA

Tür i

7

ANE PUN

Ülemiste tee

Ülemiste Centre

i Virb

ri Pik

ase erl Vi k

e v ip

V i r malise

tsu

ti

Kal

Pla

L oi

o or

LAAGNA TEE

T LI UU SM AN

34

6

u Võr nK Jaa

JUH

2

Väike-Paala

R PETE Ülemiste jaam T1 4

NT

uli -Ku na Va

Sö

kti

E

TEE NA VA

Suur-Paala

Kantsi

Aur u

vi

du

A

ep Pa

Ma SikupilliTu ha jak a K a K i vi mu tus Majaka põik r e ru Pae 2 p A RT Sikupilli api EE U BURI T

Tarja

ANE PUN

Pae Park

24

a

a s tee

uri Liik

Turba

ba

Vi a

V JÄR

ti las al

e Pa

a Suur-Paal

i

Kodu

in Magas

IK e Varr TEHN

n-Väike

Bus Station

Siselinna cemetery

u

Al e

RA OD Lubja

L u bj

M NT

Õilm e

Hag u Paid di e

Autobussijaam

e

äe m E TE A sun NA dus AG e LA Majaka

i

Paekaare

e-Paala Väik

K ENTAL I Võis Herne tlus

KADRIORG

uri Liik

a nn sli Uu

JU H

24

ld Gi

an Eduard Ja Vilde

ni an lm Faeh

G ON SIOR I Juh an Ku nd eri

ula

Kadriorg Palace Peter the Great House Mikkel Kumu LAAGN A T E E

e lg Va

T

e rn He

Andres Särev

a si rav Jüri Vilm

24

i

Tina

ä siv Ve

Rau

Kadriorg Park

Kosem

Kiviriku

38 34A 1A

AM RV NA

O

J. Poska NT J. Poska Uus-Sadama 1 3 RVA M 1 3 Kadriorg NA Tallinna s t u W g u A e izen Ülikool L. Koidula berg 34A 38 Lydia i Pronksi 1A F.R. Kreutzwaldi Ko 13 id a

Keskturg

U

Vineeri

ni Veeren

Tatari

KITSEKÜLA

Kuslapuu

Tõru Punga Urva

Tamme

Saare

Paju

ru

i Tuukr

E

tee Kose Halj

Maarjamäe History Centre

Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) NARVA M NT Joa

Reidi te e

a am ad s-S Uu

T RI

IT MB LE

ri R av

Ka

TE

5

A nur ga ule Lepa

PIR I Tu T

Tallin n–H elsink Tallin i n–A egna

R

U Rummukõrtsi MM

Mäe

oo le

te e

je

i elsink n–H Tallin amn arieh n–M Tallin

Tallinn Bay

Tuukri Karu

ke Ku

R

a Tat

ägi Tõnis m

RIKA

Saku Ko hi la

Nautica

1A 34 Hobujaama 38

IA AL A LIIV

Kosmos

uh a de vi k u

AH

JÕE

41

B 41

21 21 nismägi

ME E

Kanuti

i oots

A. Laikmaa 3 4 Viru 1A 34 Viru 41B 38 M ü 21B 41 21 Kaubamaja T Estonia 42 ALA PST Vabaduse väljak Paberi ÄV B 42

gi tee

ismägi

nari Kuu

k

OLD TOWN

msoni

i

Pi k

Aia

e

B

1 41

Nu

nn

1B 4

43

21 2

1B 41 4

rd Poo

Põhja puiestee Linnahall 12 MA SADA Kai B Linnahall 1 41 1B 4 21 2

tzebue Ko op Balti jaam li Balti jaam

la

34A 38

Rummu

E TE

Rumbi

ei

Jah u o

Niin e

am B 1 21 2

ti p ga

Lauluväljak

ie So

Asu

kja K õr

Pirita

Lillepi

Maarjamägi

ar Pat urSu

Kö

lev

4 Metsavahi

Kalmuse tee

Pu r

Maritime Museum Seaplane Harbour

IK A

PIRITA

Supluse puiestee

Tallinn Olympic Yachting Centre

rika

O

1A

K

N

ra

Sä

e te

O

Vincent Peters Light Within

5.12.2019 -16.2.2020 For all current and upcoming exhibitions visit www.fotografiska.com/tallinn