Tartu In Your Pocket 2019/2020

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Tartu 2019/2020

What’s on?

All the events you can handle

Around Tartu

Sights beyond the city limits

inyourpocket.com N°26 Complimentary copy

The largest museum in the Baltics • Permanent exhibitions „Encounters“ and „Echo of the Urals“ Encounters – home of Estonian fortunes Echo of the Urals – worldview and habits of the Finno-Ugric people • Modern cuisine and traditional tastes available in the cafe and restaurant • Museum shop

Plenty to enjoy for a day and more!

Open: Tue-Sun - 8, Mon closed Ph: + 6 / www.erm.ee Muuseumi tee , 6 , Tartu

#estoniannationalmuseum

Contents Around Tartu E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

The Basics

Leisure 6

Helpful things everyone should know

History

Living in Tartu

8

Nightlife

48

Party until dawn 9

Hotels

53

A bed for every budget 10

Culture & Events 12 Major events, cinemas, art galleries and more Put on your shoes and grab your camera

45

The hottest places in the caffeine scene

Where to get started

Sightseeing

36

A multitude of fabulous restaurants

Cafés

Find your way to the ‘City of Good Thoughts’ Transport Navigating Tartu and travelling onward

33

Take action… or inaction

Restaurants 7

A chronicle of the Baltics’ oldest city

Arriving & Transport Arriving

28

Sights beyond the city limits

18

Shopping & Directory

58

Cool fashion purchases and other necessaries

Maps & Index Street index City centre map General city map

63 65 66 - 67

Tartu Town Hall Square

facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

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Foreword Tartu has a much-loved nickname, ‘The City of Good Thoughts’, and it really couldn’t be more apt. With a population of roughly 97,000, this is Estonia’s second largest city.

But it’s easily first in terms of brainpower (as home to the nation’s foremost university), off-beat hangouts (thanks to all those wacky students) and a relaxed, historical vibe (it’s the oldest city in the Baltics).

First-time visitors should turn to our Sightseeing section to find the most fascinating spots in Old Town, Toome Hill and beyond. Be sure to check out the events page for a look at what’s going on in Tartu. If you have a few extra days, why not venture out of the city and explore the surrounding countryside (read more on page 28) . And if you’re thinking of making Tartu your permanent home, you’ll certainly want to turn to our Living in Tartu section on page 12, for tips from other expats on how to settle in and much more!

As always, Tartu In Your Pocket provides complete listings of events, museums, restaurants, cafés and nighttime fun, so we suggest you get out there and make a few good thoughts of your own. Enjoy!

cover story Tartu Cathedral is one of the largest churches in Estonia. Located on Toomemägi Hill, it is the only medieval church in Estonia with two towers. Today it houses the University of Tartu Museum.

Read more about the cathedral on page 19.

E S S E N TI A L

Publication details I TY G U I D E S Publisher LinnajuhtC OÜ Printed by Reusner, Tallinn ISSN 1406-2690 © OÜ Linnajuht

Company Office & Accounts Vana-Viru 4, 10111 Tallinn, Estonia Tel. +372 644 64 70 tartu@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accountant Marian Puusepp Editorial Editor In Chief Nat A. Singer Editor Kristina Lupp Contributing Editor Steve Roman Researcher Irja Luks Designer Küllike Johannson-Singer Photography Küllike Johannson-Singer and Nat A. Singer unless otherwise stated Cover © Nadezhda Bolotina; Shutterstock Sales & Circulation Circulation OÜ Linnajuht Account Manager Irja Luks Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Linnajuht OÜ. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

in Estonia

Tallinn

Pärnu

Tartu

estonia.inyourpocket.com 4 Tartu In Your Pocket

Direct links: iyp.me/go-estonia tartu.inyourpocket.com

W h o

w i l l

m a k e

i t

f u r t h e r ?

FROM 4 MAY!

This exhibition was created by Aurea Exhibitions

A brand new exciting family exhibition about the mankind’s conquest of space. Come and see an actual space satellite and space suit, pieces of the real Moon and numerous other space-related objects!

www.ahhaa.ee/en

This is Vostok, the Soviet spacecraft that flew the very first man, Yuri Gagarin, into space

Basics free internet for all

basic data

By now, most of the world has heard that Estonia is a pretty tech-savvy country. In fact, much of the country is blanketed in free WiFi (wireless internet) hotspots. From long-distance buses to cafeś, pubs and even some shops and public areas, WiFi is everywhere. If you’re a foreigner visiting Tartu, this means you’ll be able to check emails, Skype with friends back home or share photos on Facebook using your smartphone, tablet or other mobile device free of charge. Just look for the orange and black WiFi sign and you’re good to go. With all that free WiFi around, you’ll also want to download the free In Your Pocket app, available for iPhone and Android, see iyp.me/app.

Tartu Population: 95,115 (as of 01.04.2019) Density: 2,451.41inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 79%, Russians 15%, Ukrainians 1.2%, Finns 1%, Others 3.8%

WC Toilets are generally fairly easy to find in the relatively small ‘downtown’ core of Tartu. If you have urgent business to attend to you can usually just duck into any restaurant, pub or shopping centre. Alternately, Tartu does provide two paid public facilities - see details below.

Pay toilet Find Tartu’s most central public facility right next to Town Hall Square, in a small building behind the Tartu Art Museum (the leaning house at No.18), Vabaduse pst. 4 (C-2).

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. It only costs €0.20, but if you have €1.60 you can take a 15-minute shower here. The facility is set up for disabled people and even offers services such as ironing and towel rental - more information is available on-site. There’s also fancy, modern, automatic toilet a couple hundred meters from the square, in the other direction, on Küüni street near the corner of Vallikraavi (C-2). It uses a coin lock and costs a mere €0.20, no matter if you need to sit or stand up.QO‑ pen 08:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-20:00.

tartu visitor centre Located in the beautiful, old Town Hall, the Tartu Visitor Centre is a full-service affair. It provides travel tips on all of Estonia, but of particular interest is the wealth of information available for Southern Estonia. Here they’ll help you find tour guides, hold onto your luggage and even sell you some cool Tartu trinkets. There are three internet terminals, free for tourists and exhibitions on the city of Tartu in an adjoining room.QB‑2, Raekoja plats 1A (Town Hall), tel. (+372) 744 21 11, www.visittartu. com. From May 15 to September 15 open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. From Septem‑ ber 16 to May 14 open Mon 09:00 - 18:00, Tue - Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat - Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

i

6 Tartu In Your Pocket

Estonia Population: 1,323,824 (as of 01.01.2019) Territory: 45,339km2 Density: 29.06 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 68.7%, Russians 24.8%, Ukrainians 1.7%, Others 4.8% Elevation: The highest point in Estonia (and the Baltics) is Suur Munamägi (318m) in Võru County Populations of other cities: Tallinn 448,764, Narva 62,064, Pärnu 40,700, Kohtla-Järve 38,190.

Local time: Estonia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (GMT+2hrs). Summer time (GMT+3hrs) is in effect from the last Sunday of March until the last Sunday of October.

Emergency number - 112

making the call Calling within Estonia To call any number within Estonia, either from a fixed line or a local mobile, just dial the number as it’s written. There are no city codes in Estonia.

Mobile numbers Estonian mobile numbers all begin with ‘5’. Just dial the number as is. Again, there are no special codes.

Calling Estonia from abroad Estonia’s country code is +372. Just dial your international access code (00 from most European countries), then 372 then the number, be it mobile or land line. That’s it.

Roaming To call any telephone in Estonia from a foreign mobile account, dial +372 followed by the number, as outlined before.

Calling abroad from Estonia Dial 00, the country code, then the rest of the numbers. tartu.inyourpocket.com

History Very briefly, these are the events which shaped Tartu into the city it is today.

Ancient times In 3000 BC, Finno-Ugric tribes arrive from the east, mixing with Neolithic tribes that had been in the area since the Ice Age. The first mention of Estonia comes in the 1st Century AD when Roman historian Tacitus writes of a people called Aestii.

7th Century Around 600 AD, Estonians build a wooden fortress on the east side of Toome Hill. This settlement, Tarbatu, develops into a strategic trade link between Scandinavia and Russia.

11th Century With the aid of the future Viking king of Norway, King Harald III, alongside some of his men, Kievian prince Jaroslav the Wise conquers Tarbatu in 1030, renaming it Yuryev. The Russians remain in control until the Estonians manage to drive them out in 1061.

13th Century In 1202, the Pope calls for a crusade against the pagans around the Baltic Sea. Taking up his call, the German Order of the Knights of the Sword begins conquering and Christianising Estonia. Tartu, the last Estonian holdout, falls in 1224. As a result, Tartu is made a bishopric, part of the Riga-based Livonian state. Meanwhile Ethnic Estonians are reduced the status of serfs. In 1262, Prince Dmitry of Novgorod attacks and destroys Tartu, but fails to capture the Germans’ new stone fortress on Toome Hill. During this century Tartu develops into a busy merchant town. Dorpat, as its mainly German residents call it, joins the Hanseatic League in the 1280s.

16th Century Ivan the Terrible begins attacking Estonia, touching off the Livonian War (1558 - 1583). Tartu surrenders to the Russians at the start of the conflict, but soon Demark, Poland and Sweden enter the fray, each battling for control of the collapsed Livonian state. A peace treaty in 1582 cedes Tartu to the Polish-Lithuanian empire. The Polish king gives Tartu the distinctive red-and-white flag, which it still uses today, in 1583.

17th Century Sweden is still battling Poland for possession of southern Estonia at the start of the century and finally gains control in 1625. The Swedish period of rule in Estonia is marked by cultural advancement and a relatively enlightened view on treatment of Estonian peasants. In 1632, King Gustavus Adolphus II founds Academia Gustaviana, now known as Tartu University.

18th Century The Northern War breaks out in 1700, with Russia attempting to capture the Baltic territories from Sweden. Peter the Great leads an attack on Tartu in 1704, and in 1708, afraid the Swedes would retake it, gives the order to blow up the facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

town. Tartu’s German citizens, 824 in all, are imprisoned and taken to Russia. In 1710, the university closes, and by the war’s end in 1721, the population stands at just 21. Fires ravage the town, with the worst, in 1775, obliterating the last remnants of the medieval city. Things turn around, however, the end of the century when the town undergoes a period of rebuilding and revival.

19th Century Tartu University reopens in 1802, paving way for the city’s development into the ‘Athens on the Emajőgi’, an intellectual centre that feeds the growing awareness of Ethnic Estonian culture. During the National Awakening period in the second half of the century, Estonians begin active period of scholarship and literary creation. The first Estonian Song Festival is held in Tartu in 1869, and in 1870 Estonia’s first national theatre, the Vanemuine, is established here.

A new republic Taking advantage of the chaos in Russia caused by the WWI and the Bolshevik Revolution, Estonia declares independence on February 24, 1918. But by the end of February, Germany takes the infant country by force. When Germany capitulates in November, Bolshevik forces move in. The War for Independence lasts 13 months. On February 02, 1920, the Soviets sign the Tartu Peace Treaty, renouncing claims to Estonian territory “for all time”. After an economically shaky start, the new republic develops quickly, with social welfare laws on par with those of Western Europe. Political crisis in the 1930s brings the country on the verge of authoritarianism, but president Konstantin Päts maintains popular support.

War & Occupation On August 23, 1939, the USSR and Germany sign the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact, secretly ceding the Baltics to the Soviet sphere of influence. Soviet forces move in to occupy in June 1940, and in sham elections, establish a puppet parliament that votes to join the USSR. In 1941, Germany pushes out the red forces, beginning a three-year occupation. In 1944, bombing by Soviet forces destroys much of downtown Tartu. By September, the Soviets regain control, and arrests and deportations immediately follow. Estonia endures political repression and isolation, while Estonians who fled to the West try to keep their culture alive in exile. In Tartu, hopes for independence never completely die, however. In 1977, the Estonian flag is raised illegally over the Vanemuine Theatre to mark the 59th anniversary of the republic. A new National Awakening, centred in Tartu, begins in 1987, eventually leading to mass protests and calls for independence throughout Estonia.

Independence & Beyond On August 20, 1991, immediately after a failed Soviet coup, Estonia declares its independence from the USSR. Tartu quickly dusts off the Soviet grey and once again takes up its role as the intellectual capital of the nation. Commercial development and links with international institutions pick up the pace and by today, the ‘City of Good Thoughts’ has become a thriving EU city.

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Arriving & Transport Arriving in Tartu Even if Tartu is your final destination, it’s likely that your first stop in the Baltics will be Tallinn or Riga. Pick up the appropriate In Your Pocket guide to learn the intricacies of arriving in those cities.

By bus For anyone without a car, the bus is a convenient way to get from Tallinn to Tartu. Each day more than 30 express buses make the 2.5-hour trip from the capital, departing from Tallinn’s bus station (bussijaam) at Lastekodu 46. The ride costs about €10. See www.tpilet.ee for a complete schedule and prices. Buses arrive at Tartu’s bus station at Turu 2, C-2. Left luggage (pakihoid), open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -. 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00, is located in the bus station itself. Costs start from €2/day, depending on the size of the bag. The ATM is in the main waiting hall, near the door to the platforms, and the WC is next to platform 4.

Getting to town: Taxis are usually standing out front, but you’re only a 5-minute walk from the heart of Tartu. Head leftward around the Dorpat Hotel, which stands just next to the station, and head towards the river. Take the pedestrian path to cross under the road bridge and continue along the river bank until you reach the next bridge. Town Hall Square will be just across the street.

By car Driving from Tallinn is fairly simple. Just head out of town on Tartu mnt. and once you get past the airport, it’s a straight shot all the way down. Once you reach Tartu, there are a couple of twists and turns you’ll have to make to get into the centre, so we recommend you glance at a map and pay attention to the signs before arriving.

Those driving from Latvia should be aware that, though there are no checks at the border, border guards sometimes stop vehicles a few kilometres into Estonia to check documents.

By plane The city’s one and only direct air connection is Finnair’s service from Helsinki, which takes 50 minutes and runs six times a week. For a list of scheduled flights, visit www.tartu-airport.ee.

Getting to town is a breeze. The Airport Express electric bus is a great option for travellers with an early morning flight or for arriving passengers who wish to get to the city. The bus departs the airport once all passengers have exited the airport. A detailed schedule and list of stops is available on the airport’s website. The Airport Express is free of charge. You can also make the 11km journey by taxi, which will set you back around €12.

If you’re arriving via the Tallinn Airport and transferring to Tartu, you can hop on a bus (www.tpilet.ee) that will take you directly from the capital’s airport to downtown Tartu.

Buses leave every hour. Additionally, Tartaline (www.tartaline. ee) runs a comfy shuttle that will take you from the airport right to your Tartu hotel. The ride costs €20 and you should book in advance (tel. +372 505 43 42, airportshuttle@tartaline.ee).

8 Tartu In Your Pocket

FINLAND

Helsinki

St.Petersburg

Tallinn

ESTONIA RUSSIA Pärnu

Riga

Tartu

LATVIA

By train For those coming from Tallinn, Estonia’s shiny, new trains offer a fast and comfortable way to reach Tartu at roughly the same price as the buses. Eleven trains make the trip from Tallinn’s Balti Jaam train station each day (info at www.elron. ee). Rides take about 2 to 2.5 hours, depending on whether it’s an express train. The trains have free WiFi throughout.

First-class sections have comfier seats, more legroom and guarantee you a table as well as a place to plug in your gadgets. There’s no food service aboard, so bring your own snacks. Booking your seats in advance is also recommended as the trains tend to fill up, especially on Fridays and Sundays. See Train Station listing for more details.

Getting to town: Tartu’s train station, located at Vaksali 6, is about 1.5km from the centre, so walking isn’t out of the question. A taxi should only cost about €4-5. Buses N°20 (from July N°3) and 25 will also get you there, of those N°25 is a free bus.

taxis Taxi fares are made up of a starting fee plus per-kilometre charges. Note that the second (short) telephone numbers listed here will work from all Estonian fixed and mobile lines, but if you’re calling from a foreign mobile, you need to dial the regular seven-digit number.

Elektritakso €2.00 + €0.60/km.Qtel. (+372) 58 85 88 00/1918, www.elektritakso.ee.

Takso Üks €2.80 + €0.55/km.Qtel. (+372) 742 00 00/1210, www. taksod.ee.

Tartu Taksod €2.80 + €0.55/km.Qtel. (+372) 455 55 55, www.tartu. taksod.ee.

Tartu Taksopark €2.95 + €0.69/km.Qtel. (+372) 730 02 00/1200, www. gotaksopark.ee. tartu.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Transport public transport Buy a single-use ticket from the bus driver for €1.50, or, if you’re going to be riding frequently, go to a kiosk and pay €2 for an electronic pass card or sticker, which you then load with credit. Be sure to validate your pass once on board or risk a hefty fine if an inspector catches you. The cards automatically give you the cheapest rate, be it a single ride (€0.83), a 1-hour ticket (€0.96), a 1-day ticket (€2.11) or a 10-day ticket (€7.03).Qwww.tartu.pilet.ee/buy.

Flights Tartu Airport Tartu’s airport is small but fairly modern. The only airline currently serving it is Finnair (www.finnair.com), which offers flights to and from Helsinki.QLennu 44, Reola vil‑ lage, Ülenurme parish, tel. (+372) 605 88 88/(+372) 59 19 21 06, www.tartu-airport.ee.

Long-distance buses Bus Station Tartu’s bus station might be small but it is very centrally located. It’s best to buy your tickets from the booths or machines inside the station, but you can usually also purchase tickets directly from the driver if space is available. Two or three buses depart for Tallinn each hour; these leave from Platform 1, on the opposite side of the building from most of the other platforms. There is also an early morning bus that departs at 02:30 every day and costs €15. The trip to Tallinn usually takes two and a half hours and regular tickets generally cost about €10. Long-distance buses to farther away places like Riga and Kiev are available through Lux Express and can be purchased from the ticket agents inside the terminal, open 09:00 - 17:45, information telephone number (+372) 731 13 00. WiFi is available on most express buses.QC‑2, Turu 2 (next to Tasku Centre), tel. (+372) 680 09 00, www.tpilet.ee. Open 06:00-21:00.

Lux Express Lux Express runs most international bus routes from Estonia and also several domestic routes. Seats can be reserved in advance by calling ahead. You can also buy tickets from the website. Find the office on the bus station’s first floor.

Qtel. (+372) 680 09 09, www.luxexpress.eu.

Simple express Simple Express runs express buses from Tartu to Pärnu, Narva, Kuressaare, Võru, Rakvere. Discount tickets can be purchased online or from the electronic kiosk at the bus station. See website for prices and schedules.Qtel. (+372) 606 86 86, www.simpleexpress.eu.

www.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

Parking Driving to Tartu is easy, but finding convenient parking in the city centre might not be, especially during working hours.

Here’s what you need to know: Public parking in the centre, either on the street or in small lots, is generally a paid service on weekdays from 08:00 - 18:00. Weekends and public holidays are free. Parking the most prime area, Zone A (marked ‘A Piirkond’ on signs), is free for the first 15 minutes. You have to leave a note, or a so-called ‘parking clock’ (often provided with rental cars), on your dash to indicate the time you parked. In Zone B, parking is free for 1.5 hours. Again, mark your time. After that, parking costs €2/hr in Zone A or €1/ hr in Zone B. Buy a ticket from one of the vending machines you see on the street and leave it on your dash. For more info about public and private lots, see www.visittartu.com.

Alternately you can opt for a private lot at the Kvartal, Kaubamaja or Tasku shopping centres. All are reasonably priced and centrally located.

Kvartal parking First hour free Mon-Fri, first three hours free on weekends.

After that €1/hr.QC‑3, Riia 2, tel. (+372) 741 20 40, www. kvartal.com.ee. Open 24hrs.

Tartu Kaubamaja parking First hour free, second hour €0.60, and €1/hr from then on.QC‑2, Riia 1, tel. (+372) 731 48 00, www. tartukaubamaja.ee. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

Tasku parking Parking on 2-4 floor: first hour free, €1/hr after that.QC‑3, Turu 2, tel. (+372) 661 02 23, www.tasku.ee. Open 24hrs.

Trains Train Station Elron’s super-modern trains that came to Estonia in 2014 are giving bus lines a run for their money, offering less cramped conditions and a quicker, more scenic way to reach Tallinn. The one drawback - especially if you’re travelling with more than a backpack - is that the station in Tartu is a bit of a hike from the centre. The station offers a spacious waiting hall and a place to buy snacks and houses a lovely café Wedur. Tickets can be purchased online or from an agent on the train (credit cards accepted).

Tickets to/from Tallinn cost €10.60 - €12. First class costs a tiny bit more and doesn’t give you many perks. For more information see www.elron.ee or call.QA‑3, Vaksali 6, tel. (+372) 616 02 45 (24h). Open 06:00-20:15.

Elron Now fully outfitted with modern trains, they operate the longer distance Tartu, Valga, Pärnu, Viljandi, Rakvere and Narva lines, with brand-new Stadler diesel trains. On these routes you can pay by cash or card on the train. See website for schedules, prices and booking or call the 24-hour infoline.Qtel. (+372) 616 02 45, www.elron.ee.

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Living in Tartu

This vibrant University town full of surprises and excitement, and we’re sure you’ll agree. If you’ve had a good time as a visitor, whether you came on a business trip, as a tourist, or as a student, you might consider relocating to and working in Estonia’s second largest city. As with most cities in Estonia, doing business here is simple and efficient. Tartu is also home to many new start-ups created by talented students both past and present. Not only that, but as the effective capital of the region, there’s a lot of industry within a relatively short commute. It’s a breeze to get to work in and around Tartu, not to mention an easy train or bus trip to Estonia’s capital city, Tallinn. To help newcomers get started, there are many organisations ready and waiting to help, such as the Welcoming Programme.

The Welcoming Programme (www.settleinestonia. ee/en) is a state sponsored and free of charge national programme, designed to make it as simple as possible for new arrivals to join in and integrate with the Estonian way of life. The programme also aids newcomers in getting used to the business, study, and leisure culture. Participating in the programme will give you a wealth of information in regards to everyday life in Estonia, plus, details on how to study at a university, how to receive Estonian language lessons, and loads more. There’s also a Facebook group: Settleinestonia.

There’s also plenty of additional information to be found 10 Tartu In Your Pocket

in online resources about life in Tartu. The first stop after the Welcoming Programme would be Tartu City’s own website (www.tartu.ee/en), which has plenty of Englishlanguage info on visiting or living in the city. And naturally, there’s Facebook - the social network is still a great way to find out about places and events, wherever you are. There are several informative groups, the largest is Expats in Tallinn/Estonia, which offers up hints and tips on basically everything one might want to know, or the more Tartu oriented, Foreigners in Tartu. Be warned: although the first group is, shall we say, enthusiastically moderated and somewhat colourful, you may get the occasional sarcastic responses to standard queries. Don’t let it put you off – it’s a goldmine of worthwhile information and the majority of members are rather helpful.

In addition, there’s an excellent independent blog, Expat in Estonia (www.expatinestonia.com). This is filled with compelling content on everything from what to do on a cold autumn day, right through to the burning question of how to find housing in Estonia if you’re coming into the country. Also operating to help people settling in Estonia, with the administrative workload, and all other matters related to adaptation - is Expat Relocation Estonia (www. expatestonia.ee), which offers a wide range of services for those that have relocated, or are about to relocate.

It’s staffed by Estonians who have a strong corporate background, and worth a look. tartu.inyourpocket.com

Living in Tartu Given that it’s a smaller student town with an adventurous spirit, finding friendly social activities in Tartu is generally quite an easy task and the people here are very welcoming. The simple way is to just take a walk through the centre at around 8pm, head to a decent looking bar or lounge that shows some signs of life, walk in and listen for English being spoken. More often than not, you’ll soon end up finding yourself being bought drinks, invited to join a table and possibly end up at some sort of an event or party that same night. If that isn’t your style, you can opt for connecting ahead of time with some of the various groups in Tartu that deal with social activities and more.

The International House Tartu Facebook group is an excellent resource that basically covers everything from regularly scheduled language lesson cafés, social activities, intercultural gatherings, how to access healthcare and simple overall advice for those new to the city. Finally, InterNations (www.internations.org) is a long-established international community for expats, and it holds monthly meetings at which there is often a high concentration of IT and start-up employees, medical researchers, scientists, doctors etc., no matter the background, you’ll find someone who has something in common with your own experiences at Internations.

We also recommend to check out Babelhouse Art, Culture and Language Centre that offers special courses and tours for foreigners (www.babelhouse.ee/en).

If the purpose of your stay in Tartu is academic in nature and at the University of Tartu, they have a well developed system in order to help the more than 1,500 international students and 230 international staff every year. Each academic year begins with orientation days for international students. More info and links can be found here at the Welcome Web for students and staff (https:// www.ut.ee/en/welcome).

Nothing ever stands still in this vibrant, creative and youthful ‘City Of Good Thoughts’, however, online you’ll discover all the assistance you could ever want in getting to grips with life in this corner of Europe. Start with the Welcoming Programme, and remember, whatever you need to know, there’s a one-stop resource in which you can reach out to for answers.

Welcoming programme for new arrivals Are you considering moving to Estonia?

Or maybe you’re already living in this beautiful and innovative country? Do you want to acquire the primary knowledge and skills to settle in as fast as possible? To get you acquainted with the Estonian way of life, Estonia offers you a comprehensive Welcoming Programme.

Investing in your future

WELCOMING PROGRAMME (free of charge) consists of various informative and interactive TRAINING MODULES: •

BASIC MODULE which gives an overview of the Estonian state, society, culture and people, also rights and obligations of residents, public services etc;

•

THEMATIC MODULES which give an overview of working and entrepreneurship, family life, studying and research;

•

SEPARATE TRAINING MODULES for children under the age of 15 and for the beneficiaries of international protection;

•

BASIC LEVEL ESTONIAN LANGUAGE TRAINING (level A1).

More information about the programme and registration can be found at www.settleinestonia.ee

facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

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Culture & Events Tartu’s famed Vanemuine Theatre (encompassing three houses) acts as an all-in-one cultural institution, handling the bulk of the city’s music, theatre and ballet events. For details on upcoming events, check our online Events Calendar at tartu.inyourpocket.com and the city’s culture portal at kultuuriaken.tartu.ee.

main events Tartu International Literature Festival Prima Vista May 8 - 11, various venues throughout Tartu, http:// www.kirjandusfestival.tartu.ee.

Bring along your reading glasses and get ready for a mindexpanding, or at least culturally eye-opening, experience.

Tartu’s annual international literature festival aims to bridge the gap between world communities through the sharing of the craft, with presentations, films and other planned events. See the full programme for events in English.

Karlova Days May 13 - 19, Karlova district, www.karlova.ee/karlovapaevad.

Enjoy a full week of culture and entertainment during Karlova Days. The festival’s programme includes guided tours of the historical houses, painters and writers from the area of Karlova, as well as sports competitions and concerts. This year’s theme is literature, art, activity, cinema, cafés, family and churches, allowing visitors to discover different facets of the district.

Museum Night May 18, all official museums and other institutions throughout Estonia, http://muuseumioo.ee.

Once a year, on a Saturday evening in May, Estonia’s museums and other cultural institutions stay open later and offer free admission. Museum Night has a different theme each year and this year’s is ‘Night of Patterns’. The goal of the event is to offer people the chance to discover and rediscover these cultural values on this special night.

Estonian Aviation Days 2019 June 8 - 9, Estonian Aviation Museum, www.lennundusmuuseum.ee.

‘Look, up in the sky!’ You’ll be hearing a lot of that during this two-day event that comes packed with aerial stunts, parachutists, gliders and more. The main air stars this year are the Baltic Bees jet team and the Scandinavian Airshow team. Estonian Air Force and the Estonian border guards’

flight squad will also participate. There will be plenty of presentations and activities on the ground, too. This year Aviation Days are planned to celebrate the anniversary ‘Estonian Air Forces 100’.

TaDaa! and Tartu Street Food Festival June 15 - 16, Aparaaditehas, http://tadaafestival.org.

The annual Tartu Street Food Festival is an event for any food lover. Discover international foods, taste your way through the food trucks, pop-up street cafés, top restaurants, and alternative chefs. At the same time, TaDaa! Festival brings together international street artists for two days of street theatre, music, circus, and more!

Street Art Festival Stencibility June 18 - 23, www.stencibility.eu.

Tartu is renowned for its outstanding street art, as well as for this ultra-cool, city-sponsored festival that connects artists with their audience, i.e. the community. In addition to creating high-quality urban art, Stencibility promotes the medium through photo contests, lectures, film programmes, city tours and workshops.

Tartu Song Festival June 20 - 22, https://tartulaulupidu.ee/2019.

This year marks the Song Festival’s 150th anniversary, and it’s only natural it be celebrated in its birthplace Tartu. Over 8500 singers of all ages, together with Estonian composers Arvo Pärt, Veljo Tormis, Gustav Ernesaks, Miina Härma and many others will come together at the Tartu Song Festival Grounds on June 22. On June 20, the Tartu Song Festival and the XXVII Estonian Song Festival will join forces for a very special concert at the St. Mary’s Church (Pepleri 1), where it all began 150 years ago. June 21 is a festival day and the programme will include concerts that take listeners on a journey through time.

where to get tickets Tickets to concerts and other performances in Tartu are sold at the theatres’ individual box offices, but they can also be bought at any of the Piletilevi or Piletimaailm offices throughout Estonia or online - see www. piletilevi.ee and www.piletimaailm.com for more info.

In Tartu, tickets can also be bought at all the bigger shopping centres.

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150. SEASON

MUSICAL Composer

Lyrics

Libretto

ALAN MENKEN

HOWARD ASHMAN & TIM RICE

LINDA WOOLVERTON

Director of original production

Original production

ROBERT JESS ROTH

DISNEY THEATRICAL PRODUCTIONS

Director GEORG MALVIUS Musical director and conductor MARTIN SILDOS Set designer IIR HERMELIIN

PRODUCTIONS OF THE VANEMUINE THEATRE 2019/2020 SEASON OPERAS, OPERETTAS AND MUSICALS DETECTIVE LOTTE CARMEN MAMMA MIA! SWEENEY TODD WIENER BLUT BEAUTY AND THE BEAST THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA LES MISÉRABLES MADAMA BUTTERFLY EUGENE ONEGIN GOOGLEMOOGLEDOTCOM THE OLD BARNY

DANCE & BALLET PRODUCTIONS MOORLAND ELEGIES THREE SISTERS ROMEO AND JULIET DON JUAN TANGO OF LOVE THE MAN WHO KNEW SNAKISH THE MASTER AND MARGARITA A TRENCHANG HIDALGO DON QUIXOTE FROM LA MANCHA NAKSITRALLID

Vanemuine Theatre is the biggest theatre in Estonia. The various repertoire contains operas, operettas, musicals, ballets and drama performances throughout the season. For part of the repertoire English, Finnish, and Russian subtitles are provided, also personal subtitle system is in use.

Full programme, tickets, subtitle info www.vanemuine.ee

Culture & Events Midsummer’s Eve celebrations at Raadi June 23, Estonian National Museum, www.erm.ee.

As if to show how much they love their pagan roots, Estonians have made Jaanipäev, also known as St. John’s Day or Midsummer the single biggest holiday of the year, barring Christmas. Estonians celebrate the shortest night of the year by going to the countryside to light bonfires and drink beer. If you happen to be in Tartu that day, you can join the organised festivities at the Estonian National Museum. The Museum and it’s Friends’ Club have planned many fun activities in the manor park and on the shores of beautiful Lake Raadi, including folk music, bonfires, games and dancing.

National Museum. This will be their only outdoor show in the Baltics. You can look forward to special appearances

by Swedish metal sensation Ghost and Norwegian stoner punk trio Bokassa.

Tartu Hanseatic Days July 20 - 21, city centre, www.hansapaevad.ee.

Tartu’s all-encompassing Medieval festival puts the city in touch with its roots as a Hanseatic trading centre. Expect the town to fill with people wearing historic costumes and the Old Town to turn into a gigantic marketplace.

Tartu City Day June 28 - 29, city centre, www.tartulinnapaev.ee.

The summer fun continues as Tartu celebrates its annual day of culture, fun and games. This year’s event focuses on opera, under the title ‘Opera Crosses Over vol. 4.’ Soloists from around the country will be performing, accompanied by the Tartu University City Orchestra.

Festival Glasperlenspiel July 11 - 16, St. John’s Church, www.klaasparlimang.com.

One of Estonia’s most respected music festivals, Glasperlenspiel covers both contemporary and classic works, and like every year, will include a variety of wellknown conductors, groups and musical directions.

Concerts are held in the awe-inspiring atmosphere of the St. John’s Church and bring together singers, choirs and ensembles from a number of countries.

Tartu Food and Wine Festival August 2 - 4, http://www.maitsevtartu.ee/en.

Foodies of all flavours will love this festival celebrating top-notch Estonian food and the excellent wine that complements it. The event centres on several restaurants and cafés that will be presenting special, festival-related dishes and vintages, but there will also be concerts, workshops and family-friendly entertainment. Don’t miss the last day of the festivities when local enthusiasts will be turning their homes into pop-up cafés!

Shell Helix Rally Estonia 2019 July 12 - 14, roads of South Estonia, Tartu centre, http:// rallyestonia.com.

Rally Estonia, the biggest motorsports event in the Baltics is back, bigger and better than ever before. The three-day rally brings some of the best drivers to the bumpy, gravel roads of southern Estonia for an event that guarantees fun for the whole family. The start and finish take place in Tartu, where you’ll also find an EXPO and entertainment area. At the Song Festival Grounds, enjoy an open-air concert on the special city stage.

14th Tartu Love Film Festival tARTuFF August 12 - 17, Town Hall Square, Elektriteater, www. tartuff.ee.

Also known as the Tartu Love Film Festival, this romantic cinematic event is loved for screening most of its films outdoors, right in the Town Hall Square. Those weary of the weather can check out the documentary film programme, which takes place indoors.

Metallica July 18, Raadi Airfield, www.fbi.ee.

Metallica comes to Raadi Airfield in Tartu this summer as part of their WorldWired Tour. The massive stage, built especially for this concert will be right next to the Estonian

Urban Festival UIT August 21 - 24, Public spaces in Tartu, www.uit.ee.

The sixth annual Urban Festival UIT looks at how we perceive and use urban space. The name of the festival is derived from the Estonian word ‘uitama’, meaning

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Culture & Events to wander. The aim of the festival is to discover Tartu’s urban space from new and exciting angles. The festival programme brings local and international artists from as far away as Brazil and includes performances, concerts, urban tours and games, including some activities for children. Visit the website for full programme details.

Festival in Aparaaditehas August 30 - 31, Aparaaditehas, www.aparaaditehas.ee.

For those who haven’t heard of the Aparaaditehas, it’s an old factory turned cultural centre that also happens to be a major focal point for all things creative and bohemian. It’ll be particularly buzzing during this two-day festival that offers a range of events including cinema nights, concerts, sports contests, pop-up cafés, workshops and tours. Drop by the flea market for bargains galore.

Japanese Pop Culture Festival Animatsuri September 21 - 22, Hugo Treffner Gymnasium, www. animatsuri.eu.

Aimed at young folks interested in everything that’s big in Japan, this event covers anime and manga as well as music, computer games, fashion and more.

Tartu Student Days: Autumn 2019 September 23 - 29, all over town, www.studentdays.ee.

Every autumn students take over the town for this weeklong event, a scaled back version of the more famous Spring Student Days. Expect an event-packed week and enough silly, cheeky (oh yes all kinds of cheeks) fun to fill every corner of the city and its parking lots, parks, bars and clubs, and possibly even sketchy former Soviet-era factories – cool.

International Early Music Festival Orient et Occident October 10 - 13, various venues throughout Tartu, www.festivitas.ee.

This popular music festival is in its 24th year, bringing concerts, performances, exhibitions, lectures, study sessions and masterclasses together for a truly interdisciplinary event. The Festival focuses mainly on Medieval culture and its relation to Oriental cultures. The Festival Club has always brought its own special ambiance to the event, as well as the many spontaneous joint sessions that take place, a tradition that continues year after year.

IDeeJazz November 7 - 9, Estonian National Museum and other venues throughout Tartu, www.ideejazz.ee.

There’s plenty of concept work packed into this festival’s short name: ‘Idee’ as in ‘idea’, ‘ID’ as in cultural identity and facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

CULTURAL CENTRE Genialistide Klubi ‘Gen Klubi’, as it’s known to insiders, is a hidden gem.

Open daily from 12 noon, Genialistid markets themselves as a house for sub and city culture. Inside you’ll find the MÖKU baar, the vegan restaurant GÖÖK, Gramaphonetree Records vinyl shop, Must Kast theatre, as well as an open air programme taking place outside in the warmer months. There are all sorts of happenings at Genialistid, so be sure to check their website for upcoming events. QB‑1, Magasini 5, tel. (+372) 740 45 14/(+372) 56 82 27 75, www.genklubi.ee. Open 12:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-04:00; closed Sun. ‘Jazz’ as in, well, jazz. Groups representing a generational cross-section of Estonia’s jazz and rhythmic scene will be represented over the course of the event. Check the schedule and make your picks, cool cats!

Street Dance festival Battle of EST November 9, Vanemuine Concert Hall, www.boe.ee.

The Battle of EST, or BOE as it’s also called, is an international hip-hop and breakdance cultural event that brings in dancers from more than 20 countries. Since its start in 2002, BOE has grown to become one of the biggest events of its kind in Northern Europe. Much more of a small festival than merely an event, BOE is not to be missed.

Tartu Black Nights Film Festival PÖFF November 15 - December 1, various locations throughout the city, www.poff.ee.

PÖFF is one of the largest and most prestigious film festivals to be held in the Nordic nations. The ‘party’ headquarters and the bulk of the screenings are in Tallinn, but there’s loads of great cinema to be seen in Tartu as well. See website for full schedule, ticket info and all the nitty-gritty details.

Christmas City Tartu December 1, 2019 - January 10, 2020; Town Hall Square and various other locations, www.joululinntartu.ee.

Fun for the whole family! This traditional holiday festival is packed with workshops, caroling, great Christmas food, mulled wine and various other warming activities. There are also several concerts held in churches all around the city. Check the website for schedules.

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Culture & Events Christmas Fair December 14, Town Hall Square and Küüni street, http://www.tartu.ee/et/tartu-laadad.

This is the fair that just keeps on giving. If there is anyone on your Christmas list who is hard to buy for, head to this annual event where you will find that special gift and so much more.

sTARTUp Day January 29 - 31, 2020, University of Tartu Sports Hall (Ujula 4), www.startupday.ee. sTARTUp Day began in 2016 as a way to bring different business events together in Tartu. It was a huge success and in 2019, the festival will bring together 4000 participants and 100 top speakers. sTARTUp Day is organized by the City of Tartu, University of Tartu, Tartu Science Park, Startup Estonia, Tartu Biotechnology Park, Tartu Centre for Creative Industries, Tartu Business Advisory Services and Contriber.

47th Tartu Ski Marathon February 16, www.tartumaraton.ee.

Estonia’s most famous cross-country ski event has been going strong since it began in 1960 and now involves over 5,000 registered cross country skiers from all corners of the globe. 2020 will mark the marathon’s 60th anniversary, making it one of the world’s oldest ski marathons. Visitors have said that the marathon’s tracks are some of the most beautiful and interesting to ski in the world. The event is actually made up of several races, including the Open Track and Relay Marathon, and takes place over several days, but the race to watch is the massive 63km race from Otepää to Elva. See website for all the details.

World Film Festival 2020 March 23 - 28, Estonian National Museum, www. worldfilm.ee.

Dedicated primarily to documentary films about issues that shape the world around us, this international festival is over a decade old and it keeps growing. The aim of the World Film Festival is to bridge the gap between audience and filmmaker, creating a dialogue through a variety of events, discussions, exhibitions and workshops. The films are shown in their original language, with English subtitles.

Check the website for the precise event dates.

Supilinn Days 2020 Spring 2020 (check website for exact dates), Supilinn streets, www.supilinn.ee.

Just north of Tartu’s Old Town lies Supilinn (‘Soup Town’) a historic, wooden-house district with loads of charm and time-worn beauty. Its residents - a colourful mix of artists, actors, writers, and even just plain regular folks - take an awful lot of pride in their district and hold a small festival every spring to celebrate their community. It’s the perfect time to check this district out.

Cinemas Apollo Kino Eeden Apollo Kino Eeden is Tartu’s newest cinema. With three screening rooms, comfy leather chairs, and top European cinema technology, you can expect an excellent cinematic experience.QG‑3, Kalda tee 1c, www.apollokino. ee. Regular films €5.49 - 7.79.

Apollo Kino Lõunakeskus Out in the Lõunakeskus shopping centre at the city’s edge, the state-of-the-art, six-screen Apollo is a good choice for those who want to combine retail therapy with cinematic escapism.QE‑4, Ringtee 75, tel. (+372) 633 60 20, www. apollokino.ee. Regular films €5.49 - 7.79 and 3D films €6.89 - 9.39.

Cinamon The central and high-tech Cinamon shows Hollywood blockbusters as well as Estonian and Russian productions.

QC‑2, Turu 2 (Tasku Centre), www.tasku.cinamonkino. com. Regular films €5.50 - 7.90 and 3D films €7 - 9.40.

Ekraan Though it dates to another era, the two-screen, 3D-capable Ekraan is still a viable choice if you want to catch a mainstream flick.QB‑3, Riia 14, www.forumcinemas.ee.

Regular films €4.60 - 6.70, 3D films €5.60 - 7.80.

Tartu Ski Marathon. Photo by Adam Illingworth 16 Tartu In Your Pocket

Elektriteater The Electric Theatre serves up an irregular menu of irregular films, i.e. off-beat, art-house offerings, in the former University of Tartu church building. Keep a careful eye on the schedule because you’ll rarely see the same thing twice.QB‑2, Jakobi 1, tel. (+372) 58 87 78 07, www. elektriteater.ee. Tickets €5. tartu.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Galleries/Art exhibitions

Gallery shops

Galerii Noorus Located just a short walk from the centre, the Pallas University of Applied Sciences’ ‘Youth Gallery’ naturally showcases works by the best and the most promising of the student body. Some of the art displayed here also showcases the bodies of promising students - naturally.

April 9 - May 4: Pallas University of Applied Sciences’ Department of Painting works. June 4 - July 13: Pallas University of Applied Sciences’ diploma works. August 28 - September 21: Female painters from Pallas 1919 - 2019.

QB‑3, Riia 11, tel. (+372) 734 99 54, www.pallasart.ee/ et/galeriinoorus. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Sun, Mon. Admission free.

Gildi Gallery This Old Town gallery deals in oil paintings, watercolours and graphic art as well as some leather goods.QB‑2, Gildi 2, tel. (+372) 744 21 70, www.gildi-galerii.business.site/.

Open 10:00-17:30; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun.

Kogo Gallery Kogo is a contemporary art gallery representing outstanding emerging and mid-career Estonian and international artists of all media. The gallery is focused on solo artist projects, curatorial projects, and exhibitions born out of cooperation between artists. The gallery is particularly passionate about supporting artistic freedom, interdisciplinarity, and fresh ideas. Check the gallery’s website or Facebook page for current and upcoming exhibitions.QF‑3, Kastani 42, tel. (+372) 557 75 92, www. kogogallery.ee. Open 12:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

Mikkeli Gallery Ceramics, glass and porcelain, some made right on the spot.QG‑3, Tähe 39, tel. (+372) 734 40 65. Open 11:0018:00; closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Nõunõu Studio Gallery Contemporary ceramic art and design by Estonian artists in a Nordic-style gallery shop.QB‑1, Jaani 14, tel. (+372) 507 45 73, www.nounou.ee. Open Wed - Fri 10:00 15:00. Other times open by appointment.

Theatres & Concert halls Tartu Uus Teater Related to the adjacent, über-hip Genialists’ Club, the Tartu New Theatre aims to provide an opportunity for alternative and contemporary theatre performances to gain a wider audience. The venue houses an intimate setting in which to catch some of these performances, which range from weird to wonderful.QB‑1, Lai 37, www.uusteater.ee.

Vanemuine Concert Hall Tartu’s foremost concert hall is located in the same 1967 facility as the Vanemuine Theatre and even though it’s an oldy, it’s a goodie. Check website for full event schedules.

QC‑3, Vanemuise 6, tel. (+372) 737 75 37, www.concert. ee. Box office open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 19:00, Sun one hour before performances.

Tampere Maja The Tampere House hosts new exhibits every few weeks, everything from photos to graphics to textiles.QB‑1, Jaani 4, tel. (+372) 738 63 00, www.tamperemaja.ee. Open 08:00-18:00. Admission free.

Tartu Art House Run by the Tartu Artists’ Union, the Tartu Art House has gallery rooms on two floors. July 25 - August 18: Graphics Festival.QB‑3, Vanemuise 26, tel. (+372) 742 76 71, www.kunstimaja.ee. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission free.

Tartu Centre for Creative Industries Housed in a beautiful old building, this development centre for creativity in Tartu is home to the Trepigalerii gallery, a fashion studio and a photo studio among others. There are revolving exhibitions, workshops and many assorted creative happenings to be found here.

QC‑1, Kalevi 13 and 17, tel. (+372) 735 50 03, www. lmk.ee. facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

Vanemuine Theatre - The Harbour Theatre Modern and experimental productions are performed at this riverside venue, which includes a black-box theatre.

QD‑2, Soola 5b, tel. (+372) 734 42 48, www.vanemuine. ee. Box office open one hour before performances.

Vanemuine Theatre Tartu’s premiere performance venue is every bit the cultural hotspot it has been since moving into this massive structure in 1967. Vanemuine is a ‘theatre’ in the broadest possible sense, staging operas, ballets, dramas, modern dance performances and musicals in addition to drama. The same building is home to the Vanemuine Concert Hall.QC‑3, Vanemuise 6, tel. (+372) 744 01 65, www.vanemuine.ee. Box office open Mon - Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun one hour before performances.

Vanemuine Theatre - The Small Building This classic, Italian-style theatre hall is Tartu’s most charming stage venue. Originally used by Tartu’s German Theatre, it was taken over by the Vanemuine theatre in 1944.QB‑3, Va‑ nemuise 45a, tel. (+372) 744 01 60, www.vanemuine.ee.

Box office open one hour before performances.

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Sightseeing

Town Hall Square. Photo: Sven Zacek A large part of Tartu’s charm is that it’s an incredibly easy city to explore on foot. The most interesting bits are all concentrated in the same general area, with the historic Old Town flanked on one side by the leafy Toome Hill and on the other by the peaceful Emajõgi river. Please note that the admission prices we have listed for museums and other attractions, as a rule, list the regular adult price only. Children, senior, group and student prices may be offered at a discount.

Essential Tartu Old Town The heart and soul of Tartu is without a doubt the Old Town, a criss-cross of narrow, pedestrian streets that hold the town’s most interesting architecture, as well as its biggest concentration of restaurants and pubs. This is the area where a medieval city once stood, but wars and fires, particularly the ‘Great Fire’ of 1775, wiped out nearly all signs of that version of Tartu. Most of what you see now is its replacement - an attractive neoclassical ensemble from the late 18th and early 19th centuries.

Town Hall The majestic, pink building that lords over Town Hall Square is Tartu’s Town Hall, built in 1789 by the town’s master builder, Rostock-born Johann Heinrich Bartholomäus 18 Tartu In Your Pocket

Walter. It’s actually the third town hall to have stood on this spot - the previous two were destroyed by fire. This encarnation mixes early classicism with touches of baroque and rococo. In its day, the cellar and the ground floor on the left side housed a prison, while the right side was a weigh house. Rooms for the Town Council were on the upper floors, and continuing the tradition, the building serves as the city’s administrative centre even today. The Town Hall’s 34-bell carillon sounds every day at 09:00, 12:00, 15:00, 18:00 and 21:00.QB‑2, Raekoja plats.

Town Hall Square If you’re standing on Town Hall Square, you’ve reached the very heart of Tartu. Since the 13th century, this spot has served as a marketplace, a cultural gathering point, and more recently, a massive outdoor café. Apart from the Town Hall, its most noticeable feature is the somewhat cheeky Kissing Students fountain. This is a relatively recent addition - designed by Mati Karmin and installed in 1998 - but locals have already adopted it as a symbol of the town. The buildings around the square all date from after the 1775 fire. Those on the north side are neo-classical, whereas those on the south side, which was wrecked during World War II, are actually Stalinist. Look carefully and you can still see sickles and hammers in the plaster. At the lower side of the square stands the ‘Leaning House’ (see below), and the Arch Bridge, which has spanned the Emajőgi since 1959. It replaced the much nicer 18th-century Stone Bridge destroyed in 1944. Taking a daring walk over the top of the arch has become a time-honoured student tradition.

QB/C‑2, Raekoja plats. tartu.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Leaning House Estonia’s answer to the Leaning Tower of Pisa is the so-called ‘Leaning House’ at the northeast corner of Town Hall Square. Builders in the 1790s unwisely set part of its foundation on the old city wall and another part on wooden piles. The latter eventually sank, giving the house a noticeable lean. It was in danger of falling over until Polish engineers managed to shore it up during the Soviet period. You can see the inside of the house by visiting the Tartu Art Museum (see ‘Culture’).QC‑2, Raekoja plats 18.

St. John’s Church This magnificent, 14th-century edifice is not only Tartu’s oldest surviving church, it’s also a treasure trove of medieval sculpture.

Its most famous feature is the approximately 1,000 terracotta figures that inhabit the church, both inside and out, remnants of the 2,000 it’s thought to have had in the middle-ages. The church was wrecked in World War II and stood derelict for nearly a half-century. After 16 years of renovation, it was finally reconsecrated and opened to the public on June 29, 2005.

QB‑1, Jaani 5, tel. (+372) 744 22 29, www.jaanikirik.ee.

Open 10:00-19:00; closed Sun. Sunday service at 11:00.

From September to May church open Tue - Sat 10:00 18:00, closed Mon, Sun. The tower’s viewing platform is open to the public during the church’s regular opening hours, closed for concert or service time only. During winter season the platform can be visited only on prior registration by phone. Admission to tower €2.

University of Tartu Main Building & Art Museum Built in 1809 just after the Tartu University’s reopening, this grand, neo-classical structure is the symbol of Estonia’s biggest brain factory. The building holds three main attractions for visitors.

Among Estonia’s oldest museums, the University of Tartu Art Museum, displays plaster cast copies of ancient Greek and Roman sculptures as well as the not-to-miss ‘Chamber of Mummies’. The museum also offers tours of the fabulously decorated Assembly Hall (Aula) and the building’s weirdest feature, the Student Lock-up where, in the 19th Century, students were incarcerated for minor offences. The punishment for returning a library book late was 2 days. Insulting a cloakroom attendant would get you 5 days, and duelling, 3 weeks. Cartoons facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

and graffiti the students scribbled still cover the walls. You can experience a complete virtual tour of the university by logging on to www.ut.ee/virtualtour Through December 6, 2019 temporary exhibition ‘Main building of the University of Tartu in art’ is on display, it gives a view of the main building in painting, graphic art and drawings from early 19th century to the present day.QB‑2, Ülikooli 18, tel. (+372) 737 53 85, www. kunstimuuseum.ut.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. From October to April open 11:00 - 17:00, closed Sat, Sun. Admis‑ sion to entire building €6, reduced €4, family €12, Art Mu‑ seum only €3. Joint ticket for University of Tartu Museum, Old Observatory and University of Tartu Art Museum is €12.

Essential Tartu Toome Hill Rising above Old Town, the quiet, leafy Toome Hill (Toomemägi) is an archeologist’s dream. Tartu’s original settlement, Tarbatu, was established here in 600 AD, and if you trace the hill’s outline on a map, you can still see the shape of fortifications built here in the 17th and 18th centuries. Nowadays the hill is home to some of the town’s most fascinating historic sights. More than that though, it’s a peaceful place to stroll, look out over the town, and ponder what makes this the ‘city of good thoughts’.

Cathedral ruins The massive, red-brick structure at the northwest tip of the hill is the remains of the Tartu Cathedral, which dates to the late 13th Century when Tartu was a bishopric. It was heavily damaged during the Livonian War and finally finished off by fire in 1624.

In 1804, with the reopening of the university, the choir end of the cathedral was rebuilt into a library. Now it houses the University of Tartu Museum (see Museums). Visitors are welcome to stroll through the cathedral’s columns and, in the warmer months, can visit both the renovated towers and the University of Tartu Museum with the same ticket. Towers are open from May to September, Tue - Sun 10:00 - 18:00, closed Mon.QB‑2, Lossi 25, tel. (+372) 737 56 74, www.muuseum.ut.ee.

Old Observatory This grand building was the university’s original observatory, founded in 1810.

Its most famous director, F. G. W. Struve (in charge 1820 - 1839) installed what was then the most powerful telescope in the world. A shiny plaque in front honours Struve’s Geodetic Arc, a string of survey triangulations stretching 2,820km from 2019/2020

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Sightseeing Norway to the Black Sea. The arc was put on UNESCO’s Cultural Heritage List in 2005. The Observatory houses a museum that takes visitors through the observatory’s history from the early-19th-century right up until the time of the Soviet space program. Here visitors can check out antique stargazing devices, try several interactive exhibits and climb outside for city views. Old-school planetary shows done on a mechanical projector will help you keep your zodiac signs straight.QB‑2, Uppsala 8, tel. (+372) 737 69 32, www.tahetorn.ut.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. From October to April open 11:00 - 17:00, closed Mon, Sun. Admission €4, reduced €3, family €8, planetarium admission €3. Joint ticket for University of Tartu Museum, Old Observatory and University of Tartu Art Museum is €12.

Angel’s Bridge Toome Hill’s larger bridge is the yellow and white, classical style Angel’s Bridge, which stretches over Lossi street. It was built in 1838, and dedicated to the university’s first rector (post-reopening), G. F. Parrot. The name is thought to come from a linguistic twist - part of the hill is landscaped like an English garden and the words ‘English’ (Inglise) and ‘Angel’ (Ingel) are nearly the same in Estonian. Locals like to hold their breath when crossing it and make a wish.QB‑2.

Devil’s Bridge Visible from Angel’s Bridge, the darker, stone Devil’s bridge is newer, built in 1913 to honor the 300th anniversary of Romanov rule in Russia. Like the Angel’s bridge, its name might also come from a play on words - the bridge was built under the supervision of a professor Mannteuffel, whose name in German translates to ‘man-devil’.QB‑2.

Sacrificial stone and Kissing Hill Pre-Christian Estonians used to worship their pagan gods at the Sacrificial Stone, a large boulder on the north side of the cathedral.

This is one of about 400 sacrificial stones scattered around the country where (typically bloodless) sacrifices were made. And the sacrifices continue nowadays, as a cathartic way to end the academic year, students burn their lecture notes here after exams. Behind the stone is the romantic Kissing Hill, where newlywed grooms are supposed to carry their (hopefully thin) brides. The padlocks you see clamped to the rails at the top are part of a Russian newlywed tradition, the locks symbolising the bonds of matrimony.

Toome Hill monuments Toome hill is sprinkled with memorials to the university’s best and brightest; most are clustered on the north side of the cathedral ruins. Starting from the cathedral, the first is Kristjan Jaak Peterson (1801 - 1822), a poet and philosopher. He carries a walking stick to remind us of his habit of travelling to the university from his home in Riga by foot. Next is national activist Willem Reiman (1861 - 1917).

A bit further, near the edge of the hill is a relatively plain monument to Johann Karl Simon Morgenstern (1770 - 1852), a philologist who founded the university’s library.

The most prominent monument, surrounded by its own fence and garden patch, is to Karl Ernst von Baer (1792 1876). Probably the most famous of the university’s minds, he founded modern embryology. Last but certainly not least, we find the newest monument, dedicated to Johan Skytte (1577 - 1645). Unveiled in 2007 by Queen Silvia of Sweden, this striking and modern monument honours the Swede responsible for bringing the university to Tartu.

QA/B‑2.

Old Anatomical Theatre The Old Anatomical Theatre is an impressive piece of neoclassical architecture. It was built by architect J. W. Krause in 1803-05, and was used as an anatomical theatre until 1999.

These days, there’s not much to see if you just wander in, but the university’s collection of decently creepy, formaldahydepreserved ‘bodies and parts’ that the theatre used to house are on display at the Science Centre AHHAA.QB‑2, Lossi 38.

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Sightseeing Guided tours If you’re interested in tours of Tartu, you can check out any of the operators we have listed here, check www.visittartu. com website or you can pay a visit to the Tartu Visitor Centre at Town Hall Square and they’ll help you find qualified guides. Allow at least one and a half hours, preferably more, to see the main points in town.

Babelhouse Babelhouse provides tours with a cultural twist - the experienced guides will walk you through the historic delights of Tartu’s Old Town and Toome Hill, as well as take you to some of the more interesting spots in South Estonia. The Russian Old Believers’ villages of Lake Peipsi and Setomaa are among some of the highlights of those excursions. All of their tours are tailor-made to fit your interests, and are available in both English or Swedish. You can also participate in their exciting art seminars and workshops, as well as buy artworks by local artists in their studio in Tartu Old Town. Please pre-book all tours and activities at info@babelhouse.ee.Qtel. (+372) 58 87 85 24/(+372) 58 87 85 52, www.babelhouse.ee/en/.

Tiigi Street. Minimum group size is 10 people for a private tour or look at their schedule for regular tours. Qtel. (+372) 53 90 21 77/(+372) 56 48 99 38, www.ronkronk. ee.

Stencibility Bike Tour Offering a cool, alternative way to explore Tartu, this non -traditional 2-hour bike tour covers the city’s most interesting spots, focusing on the elaborate and clever ‘street art’ creations that adorn its neighbourhoods. You’ll learn to decode the hidden messages in stencil art and graffiti. Tours operate weather permitting and cost €50 per group; minimum group size is 10. You’ll have to bring your own bike.

See our Leisure section for rental options.Qtel. (+372) 58 12 34 17/(+372) 55 56 15 41, www.stencibility.eu.

Tartu Pseudo Tours If you’re looking for an alternative tour of Tartu, look no further than Pseudo Tours. Offering a unique glimpse of the cultural side of the city, this tour will explore everything from street art to the history of the colourful wooden houses, in addition to bohemian bars and shops. Tours are available in Estonian, English, French, Spanish and Polish. Min. 5 people per group.Qwww.pseudotours. wordpress.com.

Tartu Tourist Guides Association The association can provide personalised tours in 11 languages, just not all at the same time because that would be confusing. Tours should be booked in advance by contacting the tour guides directly, see website for details. Prices vary depending on how many people are in your group, the length of the tour, etc.Qwww.tartugiid. ee/en.

Babelhouse

Beneficium Mainly guide organisers, the very experienced people at Beneficium can arrange for guided tours in English, Finnish, German, Greek and if need be, Swedish (with some exceptions during summer). Ten different areas of Estonia can be covered and they can even provide minivan transport. Prices and tours according to your needs and number of people in your group.Qtel. (+372) 56 97 22 25, www. beneficium.ee.

wilde & vilde One of Tartu’s favourite landmarks is this statue bench that depicts an imaginary meeting between Irish writer Oscar Wilde and Estonian writer Eduard Vilde (pronounced vil-de) that stands in front of the Vilde Lokaal at Vallikraavi 4 (B-2). An exact copy of the statue now sits on a popular pedestrian area in downtown Galway, Ireland, a gift from Estonia in 2004.

Elamusturism This active company has got a great walking tour of Tartu designed with the whole family in mind. The informative, hour-long tour focuses on stories, basic facts, famous buildings and people. The tour runs throughout the year.

Prices vary, so inquire when you book.Qtel. (+372) 53 46 00 78.

Ronk Ronk Ghost and Folkore Tours Do you love ghost stories and folklore? Take a tour with Ronk Ronk to discover such things as the Tartu Dome Hill Ghost Tour, Tartu Human Sausage Factory Tour, ‘Werewolf’ and the Purple Lady: Ghost Stories from Vanemuise and facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

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Sightseeing Wooden-house neighbourhoods To get the full dose of Tartu’s old-fashioned vibe, visit one of the late-19th-century/early-20th-century residential districts that survived World War II. These feature quiet, narrow streets lined with jumbles of wooden houses, and each has its own flavour.

Karlova The fact that it’s home to a bunch of art schools (and hence art students) makes Karlova a great place to see inventive graffiti as well as beautiful Art Nouveau architecture and curious, leftover buildings of decades past. The district was once an estate governed from the 18 t h - ce nt u r y Karlova Manor House, which stands on the corner of Salme and Eha. The manor is closed to the public.

QF/G‑3, South of Riia tn., be‑ tween Võru and Turu.

Supilinn ‘Soup Town’ gets its amusing name from a weird confluence of history and geology: The area was a flood plain until the 19th century when the Emajõgi subsided, making this an ideal place for cheap housing and vegetable gardening. Because of the numerous gardens in the area the residents gave the streets vegetable names such as Kartuli (Potato), Herne (Pea), Oa (Bean), Marja (Berry) and Meloni (Melon). Apart from its architecture, the neighbourhood is known for its residents, a fun-loving and creative bunch who throw some of the best backyard parties in town.QF‑2/3, North of Kroonuaia, between Jakobi and the river.

Churches Find Tartu’s most famous church, the St. John’s Church, listed in the ‘Old Town’ category. Here are some of the city’s other notable churches: Church of St. George the Conqueror A testament to the exotic beauty of Russian Orthodox architecture, this picturesque, pink church just east of the river was originally built in 1870, then re-consecrated in 1945 after post-war restoration. Try to get a peek inside at the elaborate iconostases.QF‑2, Narva mnt. 103, tel. (+372) 733 32 60, www.orthodox.ee. Services every Sat 09:00 and 18:00, Sun 10:00.

Church of the Virgin Mary Its full name is actually the Roman Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary, but rather than pondering that long label, we suggest coming here for a close-up look at this charming example of late-19thcentury, neo-historicist architecture. The church was built in 1899 by architect Wilhelm Schilling, and features a vaulted interior with stained glass windows. The altar painting ‘Virgin Mary with Jesus’ dates to 1905.QA‑1, Veski 1, tel. (+372) 742 27 35/(+372) 554 11 62, www.neitsimaarja.ee. Ser‑ vices in Russian and Polish on Sun 10:30.

St. Paul’s Church Look for this towering church topped with its distinctively square, copper spire along Riia street, just out of the centre.

If the style here looks a bit different from the town’s other churches, there’s good reason - it was built by famed Finnish architect Eliel Saarinen in 1917. Its interior, unsurprisingly, has a distinctly Nordic feel. Be sure to visit the underground areas, including a crypt hall and peaceful columbarium, that were added in 2012.QF‑3, Riia 27, tel. (+372) 742 02 58, www.tartupauluse.ee. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 10:0012:00; Sun 09:00-12:00. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00.

St. Peter’s Church Rivalling St. John’s Church as Tartu’s most imposing and impressive, St. Peter’s is a red-bricked, pseudo-Gothic gem that’s definitely worth the short trip over the river to see. It was built in 1884, and features a vast nave wrapped in two levels of galleries, allowing it to seat up to 3,000 people.

The large altar painting was created by Estonia’s seminal artist, Johann Köler, in 1897.QF‑2, Narva mnt. 104, tel. (+372) 733 32 61, www.eelk.ee/tartu.peetri. Services in Estonian on Sundays at 10:00.

Uspenski Orthodox Church Built in 1783 on the former site of the Dominican cloister of St. Mary - Magdalena, which was founded sometime before 1300, this striking albeit faded Orthodox church is a fine example of early Russian classical architecture. The interior design is fairly modest when compared to other Orthodox worship houses of this size, but it’s still certainly worth checking out.QB‑1, Magas‑ ini 1, tel. (+372) 744 20 61, www.eoc.ee. Services in Russian every Saturday at 17:00 and Sunday at 10:00.

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Sightseeing

Impressive inside and out - the Estonian National Museum. Photo: Tanel Kindsigo.

Museums 19th-Century Tartu Citizen’s Home Museum Providing a fascinating glimpse of what Tartu life was like in the early 19th Century, this re-created middle-class dwelling from 1830s is comprised of a number of rooms, and decorated with the Biedermeier furniture that was popular in that era. Detailed explanations in English offer a good understanding of the exhibition.QB‑1, Jaani 16, tel. (+372) 736 15 45, www.linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Open 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00; closed Mon, Tue. From Oc‑ tober to March open 10:00 - 15:00, closed Mon, Tue. Ad‑ mission €4, reduced €2, family €8. Joint ticket to Tartu City Museum and all of its branches €15.

A. Le Coq Beer Museum (Brewery Tour) Beer. Zillions and zillions of litres of beer. This extensive, twohour tour takes you high up into the catwalks of the Baltics’ most modern and productive brewery. Here you’ll see how, with just a handful of staff, A. Le Coq produces mind-blowing quantities the sudsy stuff, then bottles, labels and ships it. The tour includes a visit to the elaborate beer museum, set in the 19th-century brewery’s malt drying tower, where the equipment that was in use here for over 100 years is on display. Yes, you do get a sample at the end! Tours for individuals are held Thursdays at 14:00 and Sat at 10:00, 12:00 and 14:00. Groups can come at other times, but bookings must be made in advance (Mon-Fri) and can be scheduled for various

time slots on Mon - Sat of each week.QF‑2, Laulupeo pst. 15, tel. (+372) 744 97 13/(+372) 744 97 11, www.alecoq.ee/en/ beer-museum/beer-museum. Admission €10, reduced €3.

Estonian National Museum If there’s one iconic, over-the-top, must-see tourist attraction in Tartu, it’s this super-modern facility where you can learn anything and everything about the Estonian nation.

So massive that they had to find an old airfield to fit it on, the ERM, as the locals call it, comes with 6,000 square metres of exhibition space, an art gallery, its own cinema, a library, a restaurant and a café. One permanent exhibition, ‘Encounters’, walks you through the entirety of Estonian history from the Stone Age to this morning, with fascinating side rooms that delve into topics like language and cuisine. Downstairs, ‘Echo of the Urals’ tells the story of the Finno-Ugric peoples. A guided tour will race you through both exhibits in 1.5 hours, otherwise plan to spend 3 to 6 hours exploring at your own leisurely pace. It’s a 20-minute walk from the centre, but you can take bus N°27 (from July bus N°7) from the Kvartal shopping mall to the ERM stop. Until October 30 temporary exhibition ‘DIY Estonia’, which was produced as part of a joint research project between several Estonian museums, in the course of which materials about the 1990s were gathered.QG‑1, Muuseumi tee 2, tel. (+372) 736 30 51, www.erm.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admis‑ sion €14, reduced €10, family €28.

BEER MUSEUM Laulupeo pst.15 Tartu Ph +372 7 449 711 (Mon-Fri) muuseum@alecoq.ee www.alecoq.ee Guided tours for individual visitors without previous registration Thu 14.00, Sat 10.00, 12.00 and 14.00.

For groups Monday to Saturday – prior registration required.

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Sightseeing Estonian Sports and Olympic Museum Anything and everything to do with Estonia’s sporting history is on display in this modern museum. Their permanent exhibition features photos of early 20th-century bodybuilders, ancient wooden skis and hundreds of medals and awards. You can get into action at their hands-on exhibition of ball games, take a picture with early 20th century bodybuilders, test your speed on the rally simulator and more. Look out for smaller exhibitions throughout year.QB‑2, Rüütli 15, tel. (+372) 730 07 50, www. spordimuuseum.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €6, reduced €5, family €15.

Oskar Luts Home Museum Often referred to as the ‘Estonian Dickens’, Oskar Luts (1887 - 1953) wrote touching stories that continue to be near and dear to the hearts of all Estonians. His most famous novel Kevade (Spring), published in 1912, has been adapted into plays, ballets and even a well-known film.

Set in the house Luts lived in for the last years of his life, this museum displays an extensive exhibition on his life and works, and includes a his quaint old sitting room, preserved for posterity.QF‑3, Riia 38, tel. (+372) 746 10 30, www.linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Open 11:00-17:00; closed Sun, Mon, Tue. Admission €2, reduced €1, fam‑ ily €5. Joint ticket to Tartu City Museum and all of its branches €15.

Paper and Print Museum The Paper and Print Museum is an operating workshop next door to the Aparaaditehas creative factory where visitors can get in touch with these unique forms of art.

They display a huge variety of old-fashioned printing, cutting and binding equipment and the funky notebooks, cards and posters produced here are for sale. Here you’ll learn that paper isn’t just a two-dimensional medium.QF‑3, Kastani 48f, tel. (+372) 56 82 81 17, www. trykimuuseum.ee. Open 12:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €8, reduced €4.

KGB Cells Museum As if you needed more reasons to dislike the KGB... The KGB Cells Museum is housed in Tartu’s infamous ‘Grey House’ which was the regional KGB headquarters in the 1940s and 50s. Apart from the lock-ups themselves, the museum has extensive exhibits on deportations, life in the gulags and Estonian resistance movements.QB‑3, Riia 15b, tel. (+372) 746 17 17, www.linnamuuseum. t a r t u .e e /e n / kg b kongide-muuseum/.

Open 11:00-17:00; closed Sun, Mon. Ad‑ mission €5, reduced €2, family €10. Joint ticket to Tartu City Museum and all of its branches €15.

Museum of the Estonian National Defence College The Defence College’s military museum is chiefly meant for educating cadets, but all interested parties can see it if they book in advance. The small museum has a collection of medals, patches and uniforms, as well as some rifles and the all-important Maksim heavy machine gun that was decisive in so many battles.QB‑3, Riia 12, tel. (+372) 717 63 56, www.ksk.edu.ee. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Sun, Sat. Admission free.

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Song Festival Museum Located in the wonderfully restored nineteenth-century Vanemuine society house, this museum exhibits and showcases the history and ideas behind Estonia’s most powerful display of national identity – The Song Festival.

The heart and soul of the collection here is an exhibit entitled ‘The Power of Song’, which sheds light on the background of the famous Singing Revolution of 1988 that ultimately led Estonia to regain its independence.QD‑1, Jaama 14, tel. (+372) 746 10 20, www.linnamuuseum. tartu.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Sun, Mon. Museum is closed due to new permanent exhibition install‑ ment until June 18. Admission €2, reduced €1, family €5. Joint ticket to Tartu City Museum and all of its branches €15.

Tartu Art Museum (Tartmus) This museum in Tartu’s famous ‘Leaning House’ hosts temporary exhibitions on its ground floor, while upper floors present works by great Estonian artists of the past.

May 25 - October 27: Pallas 100. Art School and Wor‑ ship.QC‑1, Raekoja plats 18, tel. (+372) 58 81 78 11, www.tartmus.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu 11:00-20:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €5, reduced €4, family €8.

Tartu City Museum The best overview of Tartu’s history can be found at the City Museum, housed in a beautiful, 18th-century mansion just across the river from Old Town. Permanent exhibition is ‘Dorpat. Yuryev. Tartu.’ and it covers all the major periods. One can learn about the brick structures of the Medieval era, the aftermath of the Livonian war, 18th tartu.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing century handicraft, the signing of the all-important Tartu Peace Treaty and more. An exhibition ‘Tartu - a City of Many Faiths’ will be on display from May 22 until January 2020. The exhibition focuses on the many traditional and alternative religious movements present in Tartu during the 20th and the 21st centuries.QC‑1, Narva mnt. 23, tel. (+372) 746 19 11, www.linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission €5, reduced €3, family €10. Joint ticket to Tartu City Museum and all of its branches €15.

Tartu Toy Museum and Theatre House With more toys than even the most shamefully spoiled of children could possibly imagine, this museum could easily keep most youngsters, and probably more than a few adults, wide-eyed for hours. Here you’ll see everything from antique paper pop-ups and a 130-year old doll to an elaborate electric train set that will move if you drop in a coin. Upstairs is a free playroom for kids. Your ticket includes entry to the neighbouring Theatre House which displays puppets and archeology in its low cellar. Tall visitors are supplied with hard hats. QB‑1, Lutsu 2 and 8, tel. (+372) 746 17 77, www.mm.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Play room open 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €6, €1 - 5 for children.

IDEAS CREATE THE WORLD

400 years of university history

University of Tartu Museum Lossi 25, Tartu

Old Observatory Uppsala 8, Tartu

University of Tartu Art Museum Ülikooli 18, Tartu

muuseum.ut.ee for University of Tartu Museum, Old Observatory and University of Tartu Art Museum is €12.

University of Tartu Museum One of three branches of the university’s museum, the division housed in the city’s famous Tartu Cathedral chronicles the history of the university from its founding in 1632 to the present time. Its well-presented collection with the fascinating University Treasury brings the story of the institution to life. Little ones will be intrigued by the ‘The Crazy Scientist’s Office’ with many handson attractions and interactive fun. From May through September, the same ticket will let you climb the cathedral towers for some great city views. Through September 6, 2020 temporary exhibition ‘Estonia of the ideals.

100 years of search’ is on display, it focuses on the Estonian national university and its role in the evolution of the Estonian state.QB‑2, Lossi 25, tel. (+372) 737 56 74, www.muuseum.ut.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. From October to April open 11:00 - 17:00, closed Mon, Tue. Admission €6, reduced €5, family €12. Joint ticket facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

University of Tartu Natural History Museum A 2016 update puts this curious institution among Tartu’s most contemporary museums while the title of its permanent exhibition, ‘Earth. Life. Story.’ tells you everything you need to know about what’s inside. As Estonia’s oldest museum, displays cover geology, meteorites, fossils and evolution, but the bulk of the space is taken up by all varieties of creatures great and small, safely behind glass.

Explanatory texts are in Estonian and English. The temporary exhibition ‘Terrible Expensive Earth. Environment, Health and Mineral Resources’, which looks at the hidden controversy of the earth’s rocks and minerals, is on display until October 31.QB‑3, Vanemuise 46, tel. (+372) 737 60 76, www.natmuseum.ut.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €8, reduced €4, family €16.

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Sightseeing Centre of arts, handicraft and culture, designers, ateliers, workshops, cosy courtyard, concerts, events.

St.Anthony’s Courtyard Lutsu 3 & 5, Tartu www.loovtartu.ee

Something different Aparaaditehas (Widget Factory) Trendwatchers seeking the city’s hippest hangouts should definitely make their way to the Aparaaditehas, a reclaimed factory turned cultural/commercial hotspot. Those familiar with Telliskivi Creative City in Tallinn will understand the concept: Take an abandoned industrial facility not too far from the centre, keep the off-beat, unpolished look and bring in the interesting institutions. In the case of Aparaaditehas, that translates to artists’ studios, design shops and cool restaurants, not to mention the Paper and Print Museum and a funky book room. Expect the courtyard to be buzzing during warmer months, especially if there’s a special event planned (keep an eye out for posters about concerts and parties). The Aparaaditehas is developing quickly, so if you check back in a few months, you’ll probably find something new.QF‑3, Kastani 42, www.aparaaditehas.ee.

St. Anthony’s Courtyard If you want to get a first-hand look at how leather goods, pottery, stained glass, printed textile, quilts, dolls and other crafts are traditionally made, the St. Anthony’s Courtyard (Antoniuse Õu) in Old Town should be your first stop. Members of the guild, a collective of artisans and craftsmen, demonstrate their skills to the public in their workshops. Visitors are encouraged to wander the halls of their three houses, drop into any open door and chat with the artist at work. In summer the courtyard acts as a picnic area and often comes alive with special festival events, as well as concerts and performances.QB‑1, Lutsu 3, 5 and Jaani 6, tel. (+372) 742 38 23, www.loovtartu.ee/antonius.

VISITORS' area CHOICE ing it the most species-dense in the entire Estonia. of Tasty Tartuofrestaurant month QB‑1, Lai Be sure to check out both the greenhouses.

38, tel. (+372) 737 612017 80, and www.botaanikaaed.ut.ee.

2018 April 15 - October 15 open 07:00 - 21:00, October 16 - April 14 open 07:00 - 19:00. Greenhouses open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission to greenhouses €3, reduced €2, family €8.

JOP Cafe-restaurant St.Anthony’s Courtyard, Lutsu 3 Upside Down House tel.and +372 5811 9597 Located just a hop, skip a jump away from the Estonian National Museum and its dramatic structure, the info@jopantonius.ee Upside Down House will challenge your perception of facebook.com/jopantonius reality – if it doesn’t, we’ll be happy to refer you to a very good psychiatrist. For those that aren’t quite sure, the whole house has actually been built upside down and all the furnishings have been attached to the walls or ceilings, or floors, or... we’ll let you be the judge.

While we think it would be quite a challenge to live here (especially using the toilet or having a bath), it’s certainly worth a visit. The attention to detail here is fantastic and is the perfect place to take some funky selfies, although most of the situations one can get themselves into here will probably require the assistance of a friend.QG‑1, Roosi 86, tel. (+372) 56 88 18 11, www.tagurpidimaja.ee. Open 10:00-18:00. Ad‑ mission €7.50, reduced €6, family €11-17.

University of Tartu Botanical Gardens The university’s botanical gardens isn’t just about studying and classifying plant species. It’s also a peaceful place where visitors can stop and smell the roses quite literally. You can escape the northern climate in the steamy, jungle-like palm house, which has its own fish pond and tropical birds. The gardens hold 9,000 plant species from all climatic zones of the world, mak26 Tartu In Your Pocket

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Boat tours Estriver Cruises Set off on a watery adventure aboard the Signild with Estriver Cruises! This small river boat cruises along the Emajõgi River from May to mid-October. Scheduled cruises cost between €5 - 15 and last 1.5 hours. Cruises run from Wednesday to Sunday at 12:00, 14:00 and 18:00 (Sept. Oct.at 17.30); on Saturdays at 11:00 and 13:00. The sunset river cruise runs on Wednesdays at 20:30 (Sept. - Oct. at 19:00) and includes a glass of wine and small snack. The boat leaves from the city centre beside the Kaarsild Bridge.

Private cruises can be arranged as well.Qtel. (+372) 53 40 10 33, www.estriver.ee. barge jõmmu From Hanseatic times right up until the beginning of the 20th century, a very specific type of merchant barge called Hansalodi was a common sight on the Emajõgi River. Since 2005, a group of enthusiasts has been recreating these barges as well as an exact replica of Viking ship and various other traditional, water-faring vessels, which can be seen at their shipyard on Ujula Street. They also arrange a bunch of different water adventures down the Emajõgi and into Lake Peipus, which take place aboard these vessels of yore.

For information on tours and barge-related activities, be sure to check out the official website.QF‑2, Ujula 98, tel. (+372) 55 59 91 00/(+372) 551 83 86, www.lodi.ee. The sailing season runs from April to November, depending on weather conditions.

Pegasus If you have a thing for boats or just want to see Tartu and the surrounding areas with the waves under your feet, the Pegasus will whisk you away for a one hour cruise up the Emajõgi River. Tickets cost €8, but you can also rent the boat for private functions. Boats launch from a dock next to the Dorpat Hotel. See website for full pricing information and schedules.QC‑2, Soola 6, tel. (+372) 737 10 43, www.dorpat.ee/et/joelaev-pegasus. Water levels and lack of ice permitting they operate from May through September Mon - Fri 12:00, 14:00 and Sat - Sun 12:00, 14:00, 16:00. facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

Seto Line A great bet for a leisurely cruise along the Emajõgi, this company runs regular, 1.5-hour jaunts on its boat, the 80-passenger Alfa. They leave from the Tartu Market Hall dockage and turn around at the village of Kabina. Trips usually depart Monday - Friday at 15:00 and 17:00, and Saturday - Sunday at 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00. Tickets cost €7.

During July and August they also run excursions to Piirissaar island on Lake Peipus on certain Sundays. Trips depart at 9:30 and return to Tartu at 21:00. Tickets cost €30. Check the website for updated schedules.QC‑2, Vabaduse pst.

1B, tel. (+372) 517 30 92, www.setoline.ee. Cruise sea‑ son runs from May through September.

symbols of tartu While walking around Tartu and seeing all the red and white flags, you might think that the people of the city have some sort of strange fascination with Poland. The flag in fact belongs to Tartu, however it does indeed have Polish roots. It all started back in 1584 when King Stephan Bathory of Poland gave the flag to the city after his forces drove out Ivan the Terrible of Russia. Poland now uses a very similar flag, adopted in 1919, but Tartu has been using its version for over 400 years. The flag’s equal-sized, horizontal bands are red and white, the same colours used by the Hanseatic League, to which Tartu - or Dorpat as it was then known - belonged. The middle of the flag bears a large image of Tartu’s coat of arms, which contain the symbols of the city - a stronghold, a key and a sword. These symbols were also used on the Tartu coin when the city had its own currency in the 15th Century.

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Around Tartu Tartu is certainly a fun and fascinating city, but it’s also the centre of Tartu County and a launching point for travel to other parts of Southern Estonia. There are quite a few interesting things to do in this part of the country. Here are some things you might want to check out if you have a bit of time to spare and your own set of wheels ...and if what you read here inspires you to rent a car, you’ll find a couple options for doing that listed our ‘Getting Around’ section.

left at the Haaslava/Kurepalu/Roiu signs, after 5 km turn right at the Aviation Museum sign, drive straight for another 6 km and you’re set.QVeskiorg, Lange, Kastre par‑ ish, tel. (+372) 502 67 12, www.lennundusmuuseum. ee. Open 10:00-18:00. In October open 11:00 - 16:00.

Operates from April 28 to October 28. Admission €10.

Sightseeing Estonian Agricultural Museum Just outside Tartu is this sprawling outdoor museum set up on the grounds of what was the Ülenurme manor house.

The museum explores every aspect of Estonian agriculture, from the old days of hand plows to modern horticulture. In an addition to antique carriages and harnesses, a working blacksmith shop and flax-making equipment, there’s a re-created poultry shed complete with stuffed birds and recorded chirping. There are real, live animals here too (cow, horse, goats, sheep, rabbits, chickens) and pony rides for little visitors. An extensive collection of old farm machinery (tractors and such) is lined up in rows in the courtyard. There’s also an exhibit of traditional Estonian agricultural plants in the museum’s garden.

Getting there: Take bus N°37 next to Tartu Kaubamaja (see Shopping section for details) to Ülenurme keskus stop (about a 15-minute ride).QPargi 4, Ülenurme, 7km from Tartu along Vőru road, tel. (+372) 738 38 10/(+372) 53 73 71 24, www.epm.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €4, family ticket €10.

Estonian Aviation Museum Aviation enthusiasts of all stripes will want to plot a course to this museum, about 16km from Tartu. The inside of the exhibition house is filled with glass cases containing more than 400 model aircraft, fighters and bombers of every type and manufacture from around the world. It’s the outside that most people will be interested in however. Here there are about 25 aircraft on display including helicopters, fighter jets, passenger planes and even a Soviet-era bomber. Visitors can climb ladders to peek into the cockpits. There are trampolines and simulators for the kids too.

Getting there: Take Võru street towards Ülenurme, turn 28 Tartu In Your Pocket

Kalala Lake Museum Akva:rium For everything you ever wanted to know about freshwater fish in Estonia but were afraid to ask - this museum pretty much covers everything from perch to bream. The museum houses 15 indoor tanks filled with swimming creatures and their plant friends. In the warmer months they even have a few outdoor enclosures for their guests to peruse. You’ll also be able to find a wealth of information and displays about aquatic creatures that live in Estonia now as well as those that have lived here in the past.

QLimnoloogia tee 1, Vehendi village, Rannu parish, tel. (+372) 522 95 70, www.kalala.emu.ee/et/kalala. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun. In May and June open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. In July and August open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission €7, reduced €5, family €17.

Luke Manor and Park Located in the Nõo district at Luke, the manor, dating back to 1557, has seen its share of history, from the extraordinary to the horrific. The manor’s main buildings were destroyed during the Second World War, however there are still a few renovated structures on display such as the gardener’s house, the pond with a series of cascades, and a small pavilion, as well as a reconstructed distillery workers house, now housing a handcraft studio. While at the manor you’ll certainly want to roam the magnificent Napoleonic style park, which was reconstructed at the end of the 19th century. The park features a steep terrace, which is divided into upper and lower sections via a staircase, flanked by fierce looking concrete lions...grrrr.QLuke village, Nõo parish, tel. (+372) 55 68 90 96/(+372) 508 83 59, www. lukemois.ee. Opening hours for Gardener’s House Visi‑ tors’ Centre and café: In May Thu and Sun 12:00 - 18:00, Fri and Sat 12:00 - 20:00, closed Mon - Wed. From June through August Wed, Thu, Sun 11:00 - 18:00; Fri, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon - Tue. In September Thu - Sun 12:00 - 18:00, closed Mon - Wed. tartu.inyourpocket.com

Around Tartu or room, or bring your tent or caravan for camping and enjoy the untouched nature of the surrounding AlamPedja nature reserve. Located on the shores of Võrtsjärv, at the mouth of the winding Emajõgi River, Jõesuu Tourism Farm is the ideal spot for fishing. Boats and equipment can be rented. After a busy day, relax and unwind in the sauna by the pond. QVerevi village, Rannu parish, tel. (+372) 516 37 77, www.joesuu.ee.

Luke Manor and Park

Tartu Observatory This newly renovated observatory, about 10 - 15 minutes’ drive out of town, picked up where the old Tartu observatory left off back in the 1960s. It consists of a number of telescopes and the 1.5m reflector is the largest in Northern Europe. You can always stop by to have a look at the buildings on the vast grounds, but tours (about 1.5 hours) must be booked in advance.

Getting there: Take a bus to Tõravere from the bus station (see Getting Around section for details).QTõravere, Nõo parish, tel. (+372) 737 45 07/(+372) 737 45 09, www.kylastuskeskus.to.ee/eng. Admission €3 - 5.

Activities Elva Adventure Park The adventure park is set in a pine forest next to serene Lake Verevi, but there’s nothing at all serene about the dizzying thrills you’ll have as you’re making your way through the treetop ‘trails’ via various ropes, bridges and the like. Strap in for the 800-metre zip line ride across the lake. There are special mini-trails and kids’ trails, so everyone aged 3 and up will find their own bit of fun. There’s even a century-old hotel at the centre of the park, for those who you want to extend their stay. Tickets for adults cost €19-21, kids €15-17. The park operates May 1 to October 30.QH. Raudsepa 2, Elva, tel. (+372) 745 70 84, www.elvaseikluspark.ee. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

The park operates from June through August.

Huck Adventures - River Sauna In order to revive the old tradition of having a sauna while floating down the river on a raft (just like Huckleberry Finn and his pals), the Huck team will make sure you get the full service. For those who think it’s wise to go fishing while enjoying a sauna – they can arrange that too; just make sure it’s a worm on your hook before you cast it into the river.QVanajõe, Luunja parish, tel. (+372) 56 22 23 13, www.huck.ee.

Jõesuu Tourism Farm Open all year round, Jõesuu Tourism Farm offers fun and relaxation for the whole family. You can book a cosy cabin facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

Karl-Erik Horse Farm They offer horseback riding, training and stable facilities.

But just in case you’ve gotten a little sore from all of the riding, oh you know what we mean, they also have some hiking packages available.QPangodi, Kambja parish, tel. (+372) 515 68 46, www.rahvamatkad.ee. 1hr of field rid‑ ing €13 or 1hr of riding in the woods €15.

Lähte skiing tracks If you happen to be in the Tartu area during the winter months and just so happen to have your cross-country skis with you, the Lähte skiing tracks just might make a perfect day out. There are 4 skiing tracks available and one of them is even lit every night. The runs are free of charge, but your experience is totally weather dependant as they don’t create artificial snow here.QLähte, Tartu district, tel. (+372) 501 49 39.

Lasita Puhkemaja Just 17km from Tartu or 10km as the crow flies, they offer trout fishing, ice fishing in winter, accommodation and a tiny indoor pool, complete with a waterfall.QSibula tee, Kaimi village, Puhja parish, tel. (+372) 509 19 02.

Loodusturism Specialising in tours and activities that highlight the wonders of Estonia’s great outdoors, this outfit serves up something intriguing for every season. Experienced guides can take you canoeing, kayaking, bog-shoeing, snow-shoeing or kicksledding, but there are also educational nature hikes on offer as well as trips designed to help you hone your survival skills.Qtel. (+372) 527 27 01, www. loodusturism.ee.

Pärna Farm The folks over at the Tori Stud farm in Pärnu County aren’t the only ones with famous Tori horses, you can ride them here too.QLammiku village, Tartu parish, tel. (+372) 506 86 90, www.parnatalu.ee. Riding €15/h.

Rahinge Extreme Park This place is extreme! And fairly wet. Located ‘9km from the bus station’, the park has a 3-level dry slope where you slide down and land in water, Estonia’s best wakeboard facilities, two trampolines, a beach soccer/volleyball site, a great swimming beach and an amusement centre. Keep an eye on the calendar for extreme events throughout the summer.QRahinge village, Tähtvere parish, tel. (+372) 505 75 27, www.rahinge.ee. Open 12:00-21:00. Open from May 16 through September, weather permitting.

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Around Tartu Sõrmuse Recreational Farm Dashing through the snow, in a one horse open sleigh... you get the idea. Though they offer fun activities here all year round, in winter it’s a very cosy place to spend some time. Once the sleigh ride is done you can strap on your skates and glide over the frozen pond and when your feet have nearly frozen off you can warm up in the very interestingly designed sauna. Summer is also a great time to visit and guests can take advantage of archery, wagon rides etc. Loads of other activities, both for the warmer and colder months, can be seen on their website.QKõivu vil‑ lage, Luunja, tel. (+372) 505 10 10.

Tartu County Recreational Sports Centre Offering lots of sporting entertainment, depending on the season, including a shooting range for guns and bows, mini golf, disc-golf, bicycles as well as skis and sleds when the snow hits. There are also hiking trails and an adventure trail for the children.QUderna village, Elva parish, tel. (+372) 745 63 33/(+372) 55 51 24 92, www.tervisesport.ee.

Vooremäe Ski Centre Just a mere 9km from Tartu on the Kurepalu-Roiu-Sillaotsa road, Vooremäe has an 8km track and a 3km one.

One track is lit every night till 21:30. All tracks are free of charge and there’s even a 123m hill for those that like to live dangerously.QRoiu, Kastre parish, Tartu county, tel. (+372) 505 25 65.

Where to eat Kalarestoran This delightfully modern seafood restaurant is located 23km from Tartu on the road to Otepää and has a great country view. All the menu items, with the exception of desserts of course, consist of fish or seafood dishes.

QPangodi, Kambja parish, tel. (+372) 741 18 40, www. kalarestoran.ee. Open 12:00-21:00. €€.

Naos Just about 9km south of Tartu, this Armenian restaurant/ bar is certainly tacky, but the food should be quite decent and prepared with a heavy dose of love.QVahtra 21, Üle‑ nurme, tel. (+372) 741 27 89/(+372) 522 27 47, www. naos.ee. Open 11:00-19:30; Fri, Sat 11:00-20:00. €€.

Vana Jäär Travelling between Tartu and Elva? This pub offers affordable lunches in this beautifully restored stone house. On the second floor, there are five double rooms available for rent. QVapramäe, Nõo parish, tel. (+372) 56 45 20 20, www.vapramaepubi.ee. Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00. €€.

Vedu Kõrts This is another cute stone-walled roadside tavern, which happens to share its roof with the small local shop. It’s located about 16km out of Tartu on the road to Narva. The food is heavy, simple and goes great with beer. If you want 30 Tartu In Your Pocket

to grab a bite here on the weekends you’ll have to book in advance.QVedu, tel. (+372) 749 79 26/(+372) 529 17 32. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Sun, Sat. From October through April 11:00 - 16:00, closed Sat, Sun. €.

Waksal Elva’s charming, old railway station makes the perfect setting for this restaurant where historical ambience is a big part of the experience. The food itself should make just as big an impression - in a good way. Chefs here serve up a selection of inventive dishes made from high-quality, local ingredients.QPargi 2, Elva, tel. (+372) 775 52 06, www. waksal.ee. Open 11:30-20:00; Fri, Sat 11:30-23:00. €€.

Where to stay Ilmatsalu Motel This simple motel is situated near a picturesque lake and surrounded by beautiful nature. Nearby you can find the Kärevere birdwatching path.QJärve tee 15, Il‑ matsalu, tel. (+372) 749 91 35/(+372) 514 64 47, www. ilmatsalumotell.ee. singles €29 - 32, doubles €42 - 58, triples €56 Extra bed €13, pets €8, caravan €13, tent €3/ person.

Kambja Hotel Located in the Kambja parish 16km south of Tartu, this surprisingly stylish and well-equipped establishment offers a wide array of services in a quiet setting. Management will even book theatre tickets, arrange dry-cleaning and order transfers to and from Tartu Airport, which is just 8km from here.QVõru mnt. 2, Kambja, tel. (+372) 731 04 15, www. kambjahotell.ee. singles €26, doubles €39, family room €64 Extra bed €13.

Kivi Holiday Home A small country complex with a sauna, offering archery training courses and trout fishing. Please note that it is not recommended to use a bow and arrow while in the sauna.QKauda village, Vara parish, tel. (+372) 735 13 51/ (+372) 53 49 22 25, www.kivipuhkemajad.ee. Price €15 per person, extra bed €10. Breakfast €5, pets €5.

Kure Tourism Farm Guesthouse A modern farm house just 7km from Tartu. It’s a good choice if you want to spend a day or two in nature.

They’ve also got a sauna for rent by the hour and a large, old-fashioned wooden tub for those who enjoy bathing with friends.QKure tee 4, Rahinge village, Tartu city, tel. (+372) 518 74 48/(+372) 504 74 12, www.kuretalu. ee. singles €25, doubles €50, triples €75, quads €100 Breakfast included. Tent €6, caravan €15.

Verevi Motel A renovated motel in a picturesque setting, just a few minutes’ walk from Elva.QH. Raudsepa 2, Elva, tel. (+372) 745 70 84, www.uus.verevi.ee. singles €45, doubles €50, triples €65, family room €75 Extra bed €13, pets €10. P­G­I­6­W­H­D tartu.inyourpocket.com

Around Tartu vooremaa

Saadjärv. Photo: A.Abrasimov

Vooremaa, located just north of Tartu, is a land of lakes.

The area boasts hiking trails and sandy beaches, and offers plenty of activities for nature lovers or those simply wishing to escape the city.

RMK Elistvere Animal Park Contained within this beautiful nature reserve is one of Estonia’s hidden gems in the form of a wildlife sanctuary. The Elistvere Animal Park sanctuary contains animals species native to Estonia, and there is no better place to ensure you catch a glimpse of them than here. From the brown bears to wild boars this is a great place to bring the kids. Besides the sanctuary, you can enjoy the reserve, which is dotted with forests, rolling countryside and numerous lakes.QElistvere, Tartu parish, tel. (+372) 676 70 30/(+372) 53 46 50 30, www.loodusegakoos. ee/elistvere-loomapark.

Animal Park open Febru‑ ary - May, September, Oc‑ tober 10:00 - 17:00. June - August 10:00 - 20:00.

November - January 10:00 - 15:00. Animal Park admission €3.20, reduced €1.60, family €6.40.

Ice Age Centre Just about a 20-minute drive through the beautiful rolling hills of central Estonia, you’ll find yourself along the shore of one of the prettiest lakes close to Tartu – Saadjärv.

The Ice Age Centre is actually more of an interactive exhibition, exploiting 3 floors of educational entertainment.

There are fun activities for visitors of all ages and most likely everyone will learn some great new facts about various ‘ice ages’. The friendly staff always seem eager to assist their guests and they offer tours in three languages – Estonian, English and Latvian. The life-like exhibits make learning more exciting by providing children with fun activities and games.QÄksi village, Tartu parish, tel. (+372) 59 11 33 18, www.jaaaeg.ee. Open 11:00-18:00.

From September through February open 11:00 - 18:00, closed Mon. Admission €9, reduced €6, family €19.

Saadjärve Yachtclub Located on Lake Saadjärve, the yacht club offers all sorts of recreational possibilities that are sure to make you happy., including a boat trip to the lake, with a floating sauna.QÄksi village, Tartu parish, tel. (+372) 56 69 76 15/(+372) 511 86 80, www. saadjarvejahtklubi.ee. Open 10:00-21:00. Operates from June until September.

Local Heritage cafe of Juulamõis Located in northern Tartumaa near the Ice Age Centre and Vudila and Elistvere Animal Parks, this cute and cosy café offers the best of local cuisine, including several vegetarian options. Outside, berry bushes and herbs grow, which are incorporated into all of the dishes in some way. Juulamõisa Café focuses on local traditions. The owners are particularly proud of their heritage and love to tell visitors local stories and legends.QJuulavälja, Juula village, Tartu parish, tel. (+372) 529 31 03/(+372) 525 74 97, www.juulamois.ee. In April, May, September and October open 11:00 - 16:00; from June to August open 11:00 - 19:00; from November to March open 11:00 - 15:00.

Vudila playland If you’re looking for a place to take the kids for the day, then head out to this playland on the shores of Lake Kaiavere, a combination water park, amusement park, trampoline centre and beach, with plenty to do for the toddlers-to-teens set. The list of activities includes everything from face-painting to motor racing, but you can also just relax, picnic and work on your tan.QKaiavere village, Tartu parish, tel. (+372) 58 22 42 24, www.vudila.ee. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Open from June 1 till August 18. Daily admission: age 1 - 3 €8; age 4 - 17 €18; adults €14; family €60.

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Around Tartu lake peipsi & alatskivi Alatskivi Located by Lake Peipsi, is a small town of Alatskivi, home to the spectacular Alatskivi castle. The estate was first mentioned in the late 16th Century. The castle itself is a fairly new building, constructed in the 1880s by the estates owner Baron Arved von Nolcken in the neo-gothic style. There is a restaurant on-site. The manor’s barn houses the Alatskivi Nature Centre.

Lake Peipus, the fifth largest lake in Europe, straddles the Estonian-Russian border, it begins at its southern end in Põlva County and technically consists of three parts (Lake Pskov at the bottom, Lake Lämmijärv, and Lake Peipus. In summer, you can enjoy some of its quiet sandy beaches and endless roadside food stalls selling locallycaught smoked fish. Mustvee is the largest town on the lake where you will find an Old Believers Church dating back to 1927. The Russian Old Believers are an Orthodox offshoot who were persecuted for refusing to accept liturgical reforms in 1666 and practice their branch of Christianity. They took refuge on the western shores of Lake Peipus and founded many small coastal villages, including Kallaste. Kallaste dates back to 1720. Here you can visit an historic cemetery and the sandy beach with small caves. Other points of interest include Kolkja where there is a green wooden church and Old Believers’ Mu‑ seum and a popular Kolkja Fish and Onion Restaurant.

The lake is considered one of the best in the world for ice-fishing. On a bright, clear, winter’s day, locals, like they have done for generations, can be seen boring holes through the ice and putting their lines through in hopes of catching sparling, pike, pike perch, bream, bass, whitefish and other fish varieties.

From August 24 (2019), the Peipsi Food Street festival (175km long) will feature pop-up restaurants from Vasknarva to Saabolda, offering food, drink and products made from the local Peipsimaa ingredients – including many involving fish and the famous Peipsi Onions. The onions, brought to the Estonian shores of Peipus by the Old Believers hundreds of years ago, are so important to the area that there’s an official Onion Road organisation that promotes the Onion Route, local products, and sightseeing activities in the area.

For more information please visit www.sibulatee.ee.

Alatskivi Restaurant and Suites The restaurant situated within the castle walls offers a royal dining experience. The cuisine here is a mix of Estonian country cooking, German manor dishes and Scottish. You might think it’s an odd combination, but when you visit the castle you’ll understand why. There are also four comfy guest rooms for those who want to extend their stays.QLossi 10, Alatskivi parish, tel. (+372) 53 03 24 85/(+372) 511 84 99, www.lossirestoran.eu. Open 12:00-18:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00. From June through September open 12:00 - 21:00.

Alatskivi Manor stables Alatskivi Manor Stable is located in the heart of the Onion Trail (Sibulatee), in an old manor house, which was used as a stable more than a hundred years ago.

Mõisa Tall is the local pub where you can enjoy great food (ask about weekday lunch specials), German beers and classic cider. QHirveaia 1, Alatskivi, tel. (+372) 56 47 81 62. Open 11:00-17:30. From June through September open 11:00 - 20:00.

Peipsimaa Visitors’ Centre Peipsimaa Visitor Centre provides information about tourism opportunities in the Lake Peipus region.QSuur tee 25, Kolkja, tel. (+372) 55 63 93 98, www.peipsimaa. ee. From June 4 - 24 and from August 6 - 26 open 11:00 - 18:00, closed Mon, Tue. From June 25 till August 5 open 11:00 - 18:00, closed Mon. Other times you have to phone in advance to make sure they are open.

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Leisure

Sauna and water centre V Spa (see listing on page 35).

Sure, you can admire Tartu’s sights and check out the local museums, but if you’ve got the time and or are looking for something cool, hands-on or sporty with the family - or just by yourself - we’ve got a few interesting options listed here.

Activities Baribal Piljard Located just next to ‘Big Ben’ on what we refer to as the ‘other side of the street’ from the centre. This club is a little smaller than Tähe, but certainly will cater to all of your ‘stick and balls’ needs. Both snooker and pool will set you back between €4.50 - 6.50/hour, depending on the time.

Hard and soft drinks available at the bar.QC‑3, Riia 4, tel. (+372) 730 69 70, www.baribal.ee. Open 14:00-02:00; Mon, Tue, Sun 14:00-24:00.

FunBowling The extra fun at this active bowling centre comes at night when they turn on the groovy, neon light system. Two pool tables.QF‑3, Võru 55F, tel. (+372) 740 41 11, www. funbowling.ee. Open 14:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00; Thu 14:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. 10 lanes, €13.90 - 22.90/hr.

Lemon Gym For all those who have the urge to workout, Lemon is not the most centrally located fitness centre in Tartu, but it is modern and filled with more equipment than you will ever need.QC‑1, Narva mnt. 27a, tel. (+372) 56 60 42 85, www.lemongym.ee. Open 06:00-23:00; Sun, Sat 09:0021:00.

Lõunakeskus Ice Skating Rink Tartu’s indoor ice rink is inside the town’s biggest shopping mall. The kids skate, the parents shop, everyone wins.

A 45-minute session is €3.50 - 4.50 for kids under 14, and €4.50 - 6 for adults. Skate rental €2 - 2.50. Call ahead to make sure ice time is available.QE‑4, Ringtee 75, tel. facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

(+372) 731 56 16, www.astri.ee/lounakeskus/liuvali.

Open 10:00-21:00.

Paintland If the idea of running around, hiding behind trees, ducking into abandoned Soviet-era buildings and blasting your friends away a-la-Jackson Pollack makes your worms dance - look no further. Five different paintball shoot ‘em up packages are available, ranging from beginner to ‘heavy paintballer’, depending on your skill level. Prices vary, call to arrange for a package.QH‑1, Raadi Airfield, tel. (+372) 58 41 00 01, www.paintland.eu.

Tähe Piljardiklubi Offering 16 pool tables, 2 snooker tables, 2 foosball tables, darts and an iBoxer machine, this is arguably Tartu’s biggest billiard and bar-games club. Naturally, there’s also a bar where you can quench your hard or soft thirst - depending on your mood.QC‑2, Küüni 7, tel. (+372) 55 58 08 05, www.tartupiljard.ee. Open 16:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00; Thu, Fri 16:00-02:00; Sat 13:00-02:00. Bil‑ liards €3.90 - 5.90/hour (depending on the time). See website for additional details and prices.

Tähtvere Leisure Park If you’re staying in Tartu for more than a couple of days and have seen everything there is to see, or you just have a daily need to burn off more calories than you take in Tähtvere Leisure Park can certainly help. There’s an 850m asphalt track for roller-blading and roller-skiing, a woodchip track for running and Nordic walking, and an 18-hole disc-golf course. It’s also the largest skateboard/BMX park in the Baltics. In winter, there’s a 850m and a 1.3 km track for skiing - these are lit until 23:00 so there’s no need to bring a flashlight. Equipment for most of the above can be rented on the spot. Weather permitting, there’s a park for the kids as well.QE‑2, Laulupeo pst. 25, tel. (+372) 742 29 52, www.arena.ee/en/tahtvere-leisure-park/sportspark/.

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Leisure Tartu Adventure Park Afraid of heights? Now’s your chance to either rid yourself of this fear, or perhaps increase it. This ‘heights-oriented’, tree-top adventure park offers a fantastic opportunity to those who’ve never experienced this kind of bird’s-eye (or sometimes squirrel’s-eye) view of the world. The ‘trails’ include wooden bridges that are conveniently missing a few boards, nets to jump into, a 300m zip-track to ride and more. The main trail has a height requirement of 140cm, but there’s also a less frightening, although equally thrilling, kid’s adventure ‘trail’. There’s a cafeteria on site where you can get food as well as hard and soft drinks. They also have an indoor adventure park in Lõunakeskus shopping centre with three different trails. QG‑1, Narva mnt. 126D, tel. (+372) 776 02 22, www.tartuseikluspark.ee. Open 10:00-20:00. Outdoor park operates from April till Sep‑ tember. Lõunakeskus location is open Mon - Fri 13:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. See website for pricing.

Tartu Skatehall This indoor skatepark/trampoline centre/bmx training facility etc. is purely for fanatics of extreme sports. In other words, a great place to take your kids if they happen to be into such things and are between the ages of 10-20.

We would say this place is ‘rad’ but that probably would tell you how old we really are, unless the kids of the new generation are using the term again, that is.QAardla 25i, tel. (+372) 505 75 27, www.sisekas.rahinge.ee/en. Open Tue, Wed 16:00-19:00; Thu, Fri 17:00-20:00; Sat 14:0020:00; closed Mon, Sun. Session €3.

biking Tartu bike sharing project Starting on June 8th, there will be 69 bike rental points around Tartu, offering 750 bikes, of which 510 are electric (which can be used only when temperatures are above 0 °C). Bikes can be unlocked using a Tartu bus pass or via the Tartu Smart Bike app. Visit the website map for exact locations. Qwww.ratas.tartu. ee.

Family fun Futuruum Probably the most fun you will ever have while looking slightly awkward ‘dancing’ or ‘flailing’ yours arms around in a small room. Put on the VR headset, grab the controllers and that small room becomes huge - a whole, brave new virtual world, featuring flying drones to destroy, zombies to shoot, and monsters to slay. Of course they also offer some great adventure games and ones that allow you to build and create your own worlds, or just have a little fun with art. Loads of games are available to play with friends, or on your own and there’s truly something for everyone.QC‑3, Riia 2 (Kvartal), tel. (+372) 58 94 06 34, www.futuruum.ee. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:0019:00.

Science Centre AHHAA AHHAA! as in, ‘Oh, that’s how that works!’ One of the city’s biggest attractions by far, this vast, super-modern centre invites people of all ages to discover - or rediscover - just how fun science can be. Here you can spend hours trying out the over 170 riveting, often wacky hands-on exhibits. These will have you biking across a tight-rope and losing yourself in mirror maze. Over 20,000 inhabitants await you in the Hall of Nature. Be absolutely sure to check the schedule for the amazing Science Theatre shows where things bubble, smoke and go bang. The cutting-edge planetarium shows (these cost extra) are also well worth checking out.

Visit the Hall of Technology and one of its exhibition ‘Aha, Cubed!’. Located on the third floor, this exhibition explains that math is all around us and that almost everything we do can be explained through mathematics. See the website for the updated list of temporary exhibitions.QD‑3, Sadama 1, tel. (+372) 745 67 89, www.ahhaa.ee/en. Open 10:00-19:00; Fri, Sat 10:0020:00. Admission: adults €13, reduced €10, family €29. Ticket price includes a 20% discount at the Aura Water Centre located right next door.

Jalgratas shop Tartu’s small size makes it a perfect place to explore using your own pedal-power. Here you can rent bikes for a 24-hour period, price €14 for 24 hours.QF‑2, Laulupeo pst. 21, tel. (+372) 742 17 31, www.kauplusjalgratas. ee/new-and-used-bikes-tartu-rental. Open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. Science Centre Ahhaa

34 Tartu In Your Pocket

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Leisure Tartu Nature House Tartu’s Nature House is a small green oasis in the middle of the city. The innovative and sustainably built house offers environmental education and activities for the whole family. At the heart of the centre is the winter garden where you’ll find various exotic plant species, as well as tortoises. In the animal room, you can meet dozens of furry and feathered pets. The centre always has many different nature-themed exhibitions on display, including a permanent exhibition, which looks at different sustainable building options and in the play corner, you can even ride a bike to generate electricity. A beautiful park surrounds the centre, where visitors can familiarise themselves with different educational trails, a beaver dam meant for humans, gardens, a viewing platform and children’s play area. Want to learn more? Why not book an guided tour of the centre.QC‑3, Lille 10, tel. (+372) 736 61 20, www. tartuloodusmaja.ee. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. From June through August open Tue - Fri 10:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, closed Mon,Sun. Admission €3, reduced €2, family €10. In summer with special exhibi‑ tions admission €5, reduced €3, family €13.

Tartu Nature House

Spa & Beauty Aura Water Centre Located right in the centre of town, Tartu’s indoor water park features two large tube slides, 4 smaller water-slides, waterfalls, Jacuzzis, fountains and several other pools, including a 25 x 50m competition-sized pool and a 25 x 8m beginners’ pool. The ticket is good all day, so stay as long as you like, or until your fingers get all wrinkly. Visitors can also enjoy different saunas (Finnish sauna, juniper sauna, steam sauna, aroma sauna, rock salt sauna, steam & aroma sauna, and an igloo sauna on the terrace). For those that want to really cool off after, you can take advantage of the icy cold water provide and wind down in the cosy leisure area with hanging chairs.QD‑3, Turu 10, tel. (+372) 730 02 80, www.aurakeskus.ee. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun, Sat 09:00-22:00. Swimming pool open 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. NB! Closed for the month of July.

Admission €7 - 15, includes a 20% discount at the AHHAA Science Centre located right next door. Only swimming pool €3.50 - 7. facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

Aura Water Centre

Herb Spa Located in hotel Dorpat, Herb spa has a distinctive Scandinavian style and as their name implies, celebrates the herbs and plants that are widely used in their treatments and which can also be seen in the interior elements. There is a wide variety of massages and cosmetic treatments as well as bath and body treatments on offer. QD‑2, Soola 6, tel. (+372) 733 71 87, www.herbspa.ee. Open 09:0020:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. V Spa An worthy attraction in the Kvartal shopping centre, V Spa is more than merely a spa. The sprawling complex boasts day spa facilities offering a wide range of rejuvenating and relaxing treatments such as massages and various exotic therapeutic options. Naturally, the water park and all of its various saunas, jet pools and chill-out zones - including a water bar - are a huge draw, as are the speciality salt and sauna worlds. The salt world offers a dreamy floating salt bath, infrared salt sauna and a salt scrub sauna. The sauna world offers various options including a Russian Banja and a cold dipping pool. If you’re lucky, the sauna master will be on site to beat you down with tree branches as well. We enjoyed it so much it was hard to leave when we last visited. Various packages available, including ones combined with hotel stays. See website for a full list.QC‑3, Riia 2, tel. (+372) 740 40 70, www.vspa.ee. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-20:00.

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Restaurants

Culinary delights at Antonius. Photo by Lauri Laan.

For a city its size, Tartu has a surprising variety of restaurants. It’s important to note though that the lines between restaurant, café and pub are often blurred here - you can get full meals in most cafés and pubs, and by the same token, you can drink the evening away in a restaurant. Be sure to read through all the restaurant and nightlife pages here to get the complete picture of what’s available.

Asian Ginger Grill This Asian restaurant mainly focuses on Indian cuisine, but you’ll find a few other Asian dishes as well. While we didn’t get a chance to eat here the last time we visited, Ginger Grill does offer weekday lunch specials and is a popular takeaway option among locals.QC‑2, Küüni 5b, tel. (+372) 56 68 30 44, www.gingergrill.ee. Open 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €. X­T­ U­B­S­V­J­6­W Mandala Just off the main square, Mandala is a worthy destination for those who want to fill their bellies with Nepalese, Chinese or Thai cuisine. Though there’s admittedly not too much to the design (it’s just one very roomy room with yellow-saffron walls), we found it to be a cut above most of Tartu’s pan-Asian restaurants both in terms of food quality and friendly service. We’d tell you to save room for dessert, but that might be a challenge.QB‑2, Rüütli 3, tel. (+372) 730 39 02/(+372) 56 91 17 49, www.mandalarestoran. ee. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 11:0023:00. From November through April open 11:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€. P­T­B­S­V­J­6­W 36 Tartu In Your Pocket

Vaga Mama An inviting, modern interior and an intriguing menu of Nepalese, Chinese and Indian choices await you at this somewhat hidden restaurant. Items range from old standbys like sweet and sour pork to the more exotic garlic frog legs. Ordering anything from the Nepalese section gets you the full package with rice, salad, bread and sauce on a huge, tin plate. We liked the friendly service.QC‑3, Ülikooli 2 (entrance around the back), tel. (+372) 747 70 93/(+327) 56 91 48 17, www.vagamama.weebly.com.

Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €€. X­B­S­V­J­6­W

Estonian Hansa Tall As far as super-elaborate decorations go, nothing in Tartu comes close to Hansa Tall. Owners have gone all out to create an old-fashioned, country-style feeling to go with their lengthy offering of hefty and hearty dishes. The antique-packed interior is a must-see, resembling a rural Estonian home of bygone days and there’s even a fireplace, igloo sauna and hot tub for chillier nights. When the season turns warm, diners can enjoy their meals in a wide courtyard that’s set up like a scene from the Wild Wild West.QG‑3, Turu 27a, tel. (+372) 737 18 02, www.hansatall.ee. Open 07:00-22:00; Sun 08:00-21:00; Thu 07:00-23:00; Fri 07:0024:00; Sat 08:00-24:00. T­I­S­L­6­W Lihuniku Äri Part butcher shop, part restaurant, this unique concept place is a hit in Tartu. A weekly special is served during the day or choose any piece of their dry-aged Estonian beef tartu.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants SYMBOL key T Child-friendly

J Old Town location

6 Pets allowed

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking area

S Take-away

V Home delivery

L Free parking

P Air-conditioning

B Outside seating N Payment in cash only W WiFi

price guide Based on the average price of a main course. €

Up to 7 euros

€€€ 14 - 19 euros

€€

8 - 13 euros

€€€€ Over 20 euros

and they’ll cook it up for you. The atmosphere is cosy, yet chic, but the best seat in the house is certainly the butcher’s table in the kitchen, which you can pre-book for an evening to enjoy a special menu.QC‑2, Ülikooli 2A, tel. (+372) 58 65 01 54, www.lihunik.ee. Open 12:00-16:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; closed Sat, Sun. €€€. P­B­J­6­W Umb Roht For those in search of a contemporary fine dining experience at prices that are just a tiny notch above average, we couldn’t recommend Umb Roht more. Everything our team tried, from the piglet to the whitefish, turned out amazingly, and the service was outstanding. Though the restaurant is on the small side, during the warm season it expands into the much roomier courtyard. There are also excellent lunch specials available for the budget conscious.QB‑2, Ülikooli 7, tel. (+372) 744 00 55, www. umbroht.ee. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€€. B­I­S­J­6­W

tipping tips There is still no rule per se, but the general practice is to leave roughly 10% in any restaurant where you ate a full meal and where the bill was brought to your table (i.e., you didn’t order and pay at the bar). Also, it’s often simpler to tip in cash rather than adding the tip to a credit card payment. facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

Gourmet dishes, extensive wine list & tranquil atmosphere await. Ülikooli 15, Tartu Tel +372 737 0377, www.hotelantonius.ee

International Antonius Those looking for fine dining should head straight to Hotel Antonius’ elegant, yet modern, cellar restaurant. The food is European-inspired with a focus on fresh, local ingredients.

The interior pairs traditional and contemporary style for a unique atmosphere. Most tables are arranged under the large, domed skylight, but if you’re on a date, you can ask to be seated in one of the secluded nooks. From June through August there’s a summer terrace café open in the hotel’s courtyard, offering a separate menu.QB‑2, Ülikooli 15, tel. (+372) 737 03 77, www.hotelantonius.ee/restoran. Open 18:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€€€. U­B­J­W Aparaat A 15-minute hike (mostly uphill) from the centre, Aparaat is the place to go if you’re looking for the city’s hippest and hipsterest dining spot. This buzzing Mecca of cool-dom makes its home in the courtyard of the Aparaaditehas, an old factory building that’s been taken over by the local art and culture scene. Designers here have done a fantastic job of retaining the restaurant’s converted warehouse feel while creating a bright, comfortable space to sample the casual menu. This includes a decent selection of vegan items as well as simple, well-made meat dishes. Popularity has made it noisy and busy, so we recommend you book ahead.QF‑3, Kastani 42, tel. (+372) 730 30 90/(+372) 510 32 94, www. aparaadiresto.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. €€. T­U­B­S­L­6­W 2019/2020

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Restaurants Chez André Don’t let first impressions fool you. Chez André should be classed several notches above the loungey café that it appears from the outside. Imagine buttering fresh-baked cornbread while Frankie sings longingly about summer winds, then sampling one of the classics or nouvelle cuisine mains crafted by Chef André. It’s priced at the higher end of the scale, but the food certainly won’t disappoint.

QB‑2, Küütri 3, tel. (+372) 744 20 85, www.chezandre. ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00. €€€€. P­B­S­J­W Dorpat This eatery located inside the hotel of the same name has got a lot going for it. Perfect for groups as it seats 100, the interior is stylish and the food equally well designed. We suggest you try out the food sampler menu, which gives you the opportunity of tasting all the a la carte items without the hefty price-tag. Dorpat also offers breakfast and soup buffets as well as a lunch buffet, a bargain at €7.50.

QD‑2, Soola 6, tel. (+372) 733 71 89, www.dorpat.ee/ restoran. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€€. X­T­U­S­L­6­W Entri Is it a restaurant, a café, a lounge, a forest, a jungle, and is it aboard Captain Nemo’s Nautilus? Although this eatery seems to suffer something of an identity crisis and the interior seems both conflicting and confusing at times - it’s certainly original. The menu is just as eclectic, mixing Estonian cuisines - with just about everything in between. While not entirely a bad thing, we thought the choices available were perhaps too numerous in some regards. The food was pretty decent though and the prices weren’t all that bad considering what you get in return.

QC‑2, Küüni 7, tel. (+372) 740 92 23, www.entri.ee.

Open 09:00-21:00; Fri 09:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. €€. S­J­6­W­ Gustav Gastro Café Brought to you by the folks over at Werner, this Gastro Café is located in the Tartu Kaubamaja building and offers up some interesting and tasty food options including a few great breakfast dishes. Even though it’s situated in a shopping mall you won’t get that ‘shopping mall’ vibe while dining here. We quite liked the burger and even though the fish and chips were quite tasty, we thought they should have kept them more traditional using a beer batter. All in all a pretty decent option for a meal anytime of the day and their cakes are fantastic.QC‑2, Riia 1 (Tartu Kaubamaja), tel. (+372) 53 23 17 47, www.gustavgastro. ee. Open 07:30-22:00; Sun 09:00-21:00; Fri 07:30-24:00; Sat 09:00-24:00. €€. P­T­U­B­S­J­6­W­i

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app 38 Tartu In Your Pocket

HÕlm For that high-class, bow tie and linen glove experience, you’re simply not going to do better than Hõlm. We found the entire operation to be every bit as crisp and professional as we’d expect from the renowned Lydia Hotel’s restaurant and the items we tried from the inventive menu came off flawlessly. The open kitchen is an interesting touch, but diners will probably be drawn more to the picture windows offering alluring views of the adjacent park and - albeit from an oblique angle - Town Hall Square.QB‑2, Ülikooli 14, tel. (+372) 730 40 08, www. holmrestoran.ee. Open 18:00-23:00; Sat 17:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€€. P­T ­U ­J ­W­

Hõlm

Joyce This 2018 White Guide listed eatery is certainly one of the culinary gems of Tartu. The feel is upmarket, yet somehow casual and in no way does it give off the air of a hotel restaurant - naturally, the attached V Spa Hotel is also a gem worth checking into. We truly and thoroughly enjoyed each delicious morsel of the international offerings. If you’re lucky enough to have your kids along with you, they’ll joyfully finish every last bite from the specially created children’s menu. From the enthusiastic and knowledgeable service to the fancy yet cosy interior, the time spent at Joyce - is a joy, to say the least.QC‑3, Riia 2, tel. (+372) 53 21 75 00, www. vspahotel.ee/en/joyce-restaurant. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€. P­U ­Wi new Kampus Right in the heart of Tartu’s Old Town is where you’ll find this three-in-one restaurant. It’s a new concept, at least in Estonia, combining food and drink in an organised chaos. KAUSS (poke), Uulits (burgers), and Peakoka nurk or chef’s corner are lined up at one side of this light and airy space. At the end, there’s a bar. Everything is selfserve. Perhaps the only thing missing are extra tables.

Kampus is busy all day long.QB‑2, Rüütli 7, tel. (+372) 529 75 67. Open 11:30-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:30-02:00; Sun 11:30-21:00. €€. P­U ­B ­S ­V ­J ­6 ­W tartu.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants new Kolm Tilli Tänavaköök This stylish converted warehouse space is the perfect location for a street food restaurant, but you won’t be eating standing up here. On weekdays, enjoy a hearty breakfast, or come for lunch like we did, when they serve sourdough pizza and a couple of daily dishes - one for carnivores, one for herbivores. At dinner, you get to choose from the whole menu, which has just about any kind of classic street food you could think of. Add a great drinks list to the mix, friendly and attentive service on top of that, an you’ve got a great place to take even the fussiest of eaters.QF‑3, Kastani 42, tel. (+372) 56 27 77 53, www.kolmtilli.ee. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri 09:00-01:00; Sat 10:00-01:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. €€. P­T ­U ­B ­S­ V­L ­6 ­W­ TRI

KÜÜ

SE DU

TS

PLA

BA

VA PST

KOJA

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Meat Market That’s ‘meat market’ in both senses - it’s part cosy, steakcentred restaurant and part happening cocktail lounge, complete with its own menu, guest DJs and lots of action.

The restaurant features minimalist décor, cool paintings and clock collection. As the name implies, this is a carnivore’s dream with a wide selection that even runs to game dishes like venison. The grill items were particularly good. Make a reservation on weekends.QB‑2, Küütri 3, tel. (+372) 653 34 55, www.meatmarket.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. €€€.

P­U­B­S­J­W

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Vilde ja Vine New owners have brought a fresh concept to this old Tartu favourite. Built inside an old, brick printing house, Vilde ja Vine aims to combine many of the finer things in life: art, wine, a pleasant atmosphere and good food, the last of which can be ordered from the international menu or selected from a counter that features various tapas, antipasti and beer/wine snacks. Blindfolded dinners and set menus with wine pairing can be booked in advance.QB‑2, Vallikraavi 4, tel. (+372) 734 34 00, www.vilde.ee. Open 11:30-15:00;18:00-22:00; Thu 11:30-15:00;18:00-23:00; Fri 11:30-15:00;18:00-01:00; Sat 13:00-01:00; closed Sun. €€. T­B­J­6­W

T

Werner The more exclusive, upstairs portion of the famous Werner café (see Cafés) is a full-fledged restaurant with a high degree of flair. Designers gave it a timeless, dreamy look by packing it with candelabras, linen-draped chairs and art. After sipping on complimentary water (a rarity in Estonia), you can choose from an inventive menu with dishes like Asian-inspired tacos, or bison with pepper sauce and smoked sour cream, among others.QB‑2, Ülikooli 11, tel. (+372) 742 63 77, www.werner. ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. P­T­B­S­J­6­W­

PS

Polpo The stylishly arched interior of Hotel London’s restaurant is certainly pleasing to the eye, as is the delightfully prepared cuisine. With this in mind, it’s really no surprise that Polpo appears again and again on Estonia’s ‘50 Best Restaurants’ list. The menu provides a selection of international choices, though you’ll also find new takes on traditional Estonian cuisine. All in all the food is delightful, perhaps a little pricier than many Tartu establishments but well worth the cost in our opinion.QB‑2, Rüütli 9, tel. (+372) 730 55 66, www.polpo.ee. Open 11:30-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:30-24:00; closed Sun. €€€. P­T­U­B­S­J­W­

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Restaurants Italian Da Vinci Pasta & Pizza When we say this is the classiest place you’ll find in a Tartu shopping mall, we mean you’re literally right out there watching the escalators. That said, the window-side tables will give you a fairly nice city view. We found the service to be warm and professional. While our food was not overthe-top spectacular, we have no complaints either and left with satisfied bellies.QC‑2, Turu 2 (Tasku Centre), tel. (+372) 733 93 33, www.davincifood.ee. Open 10:0021:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. €€. U­S­V­6­W­i new Jakobi Jalats Open for lunch and dinner, Jakobi Jalats offers Italian-inspired dishes in a cosy wooden house in the Karlova area of Tartu. We quite enjoyed the gorgonzola and aubergine panini, and the other dishes passing by the table make us want to come back and try more.QG‑3, Tähe 29, tel. (+372) 57 87 02 22. Open 12:00-22:30; Fri, Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-18:00; closed Mon. €€. B­S­6­W La Dolce Vita Everything you could possibly want in a casual, Italian restaurant - checker-print tablecloths, pleasant aromas and authentically thin, crunchy pizza crusts - it’s all here.

The owners are actually Italian, so this is the real deal.

The menu includes an excellent meat plate, cheese plate,

40 Tartu In Your Pocket

Authentic, Italian wood-oven pizza at La Dolce Vita.

a choice of bruschettas, salads, fresh pastas and over 40 kinds of tasty pizza and calzones, which are cooked to perfection in a wood-burning oven. To top off your meal, there’s a selection of home-made gelatos for dessert. Voted among the best 50 restaurants in Estonian for the last several years. Bellissimo!QB‑2, Kompanii 10 (entrance from Gildi), tel. (+372) 740 75 45, www. ladolcevita.ee. Open 11:30-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:30-24:00. €€. T­S­J­W

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Restaurants Taverna Most people wouldn’t think of Taverna as an Italian place - it just doesn’t have that kind of feel. But this old favourite on Raekoja plats mainly serves pizzas and pastas, so the category is fitting. The pizzas here, available in three sizes, are substantial. Other mains, including various grill dishes, are also on offer. The interior at this underground tavern is nice and cosy, with stained glass and other artistic touches.QC‑2, Raekoja plats 20, tel. (+372) 742 30 01, www.taverna.ee. Open 11:30-24:00; Sun 11:30-23:00. €€. S­V­J Vapiano Tartu’s version of this popular international chain is a pleasant, leafy affair. It sits at one edge of the Kvartal shopping mall with an adjacent pedestrian street providing views and, season permitting, opportunities for al-fresco dining.

For those unfamiliar with Vapiano, it revolves around a ‘fresh-casual’ concept where the tantalising food is prepared right before your very eyes. Arriving visitors are given a plastic card, then proceed to the open kitchen area to order their pasta, salad/antipasti, pizza and drinks, with each item charged to the card. The quality is generally high for the price.QC‑2/3, Riia 2, tel. (+372) 683 00 92, www.vapiano.ee. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00; Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. P­B­S­6­W

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pizza

Opera Pizza This unadorned little café seems to draw in a transient crowd from nearby university classes. That’s no shocker since the pizza is actually darned quick and fairly good. Medium pizzas for €4.50 - 5.50.QB‑3, Va‑ nemuise 26, tel. (+372) 742 07 95, www.operapizza. ee. Open 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. B­S Pappa Pizza This cosy niche on a busy street is Tartu’s representative of a popular national chain. Normal pizzas go for around €5, whereas pan pizzas are in the €6.50 range.

QC‑3, Riia 7, tel. (+372) 742 79 33, www.pappapizza. ee. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. S

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Flavours of Estonia Traditional Estonian cuisine is, for the most part, a mix of whatever peasants could scratch together on the farm and whatever fishermen hauled in from the Baltic Sea. You may notice a heavy Germanic influence – not surprising given the region’s cultural history. Taverns catering to local tastes will typically offer plates of pork schnitzel with heavy doses of potatoes or cabbage on the side. For those in search of something more exotic and uniquely Estonian though, we’ve put together this handy list of what to try and buy when you’re out dining or shopping. Terviseks!

Tallinna kilud Spiced Tallinn sprats, sold in decorative tins, have been a mainstay souvenir of the city since as far back as the 1920s. These silvery little fish often appear on kilu võilevad, snack-sized, dark bread sandwiches made with butter, onion and dill. Look for them in the salad and pastry counter of your nearest café.

Marineeritud angerjas Marinated eel, served cold, is a true Estonian favourite.

Sometimes it comes smoked (suitsutatud) rather than marinated, but either way, don’t be surprised to find it cut into small chunks and ready to spoon out at your hotel’s breakfast buffet. It’s also commonly served as part of a sour cream and vegetable salad.

Sült Some foreigners are understandably too squeamish to try sült, a jellied meat dish made from boiled pork and pork bones. Still, locals love it, especially served cold with a spot of mustard on the side. It’s often made in large batches, so many Estonian families have stories of jars and jars of solidifying all over the house.

Verivorst Estonia’s famous blood sausage is not nearly as macabre as it sounds and biting into it won’t leave you looking like an extra in a zombie film. It’s heavy on the barley and similar to what the English diplomatically call ‘black pudding’ due to its colour. You probably won’t see it on menus outside of November and December though, since it’s considered a traditional Christmas dish.

It’s usually served with a tangy, red berry jam.

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Küüslauguleivad The ultimate Estonian beer/ bar snack is the local take on garlic bread. In this case, the bread in question is the real Estonian black rye bread, which itself a must-try. The bread – either full slices, strips or cubes – is toasted to crunchiness and buttered. Then massive quantities of the pungent stuff is applied. Some pubs serve the garlic on the side, leaving the customer the option to rub it on and thereby regulate the strength. suitsujuustu pats Resembling a braided rope or a peasant girl’s hair (albeit one who has been standing a little too close to the village bonfire), Estonian smoked string cheese is a surprisingly addictive snack. It’s harder and chewier than its counterparts in other countries, so it may take getting used to. Find it in the supermarket.

Kama This oh-so-Estonian dessert is near and dear to the hearts of locals and really has no equivalent in most other traditions. Basically it’s a mixture of ground grains - rye, oat, barley, and pea flour - blended together with sour milk (keefir) to make a sweet, cold porridge. Just try it. If it’s not on your restaurant’s dessert menu, you can pick up the dried mixture at a food shop and make it at home.

Kohuke Another much loved treat that’s hard to find outside the country is kohuke, which roughly translates to ‘little curd’. It’s essentially a bitesized chunk of cold, sweet curd covered in a candy glaze, most reminiscent of cheesecake. Various flavours are available but the traditional one is the chocolate-covered vanilla one. Kohuke is sold in individually wrapped, foil packages and can be found in the refrigerated dairy section of food shops.

Kali Referred to as ‘the Estonian Coca-Cola’, kali is a kind of low-alcoholic (up to 0.5%), fermented young beer. It’s sweet and has a very light fizz to it, making it a popular refreshment for generations of Estonian kids. Though it may look like root beer, it’s definitely not. Try it for yourself and test your Estonianness! tartu.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Japanese

quick & cheap

Sushi City Located at the edge of Old Town near Supilinn, this tiny sushi spot is pretty much geared to those who might want to take their sushi back home or to the hotel with them.

They do have a truly large selection, their prices are very good and we certainly found the quality and size to price ratio above average.QB‑1, K.E. von Baeri 2, tel. (+372) 58 20 30 60, www.sushicity.ee. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00. €. P­S­V­L­J

new Hugo’s Coffee Shop Open during the day and centrally located, Hugo’s is a great choice for a midday snack or meal and coffee to recharge. In addition to the coffee, we also really enjoy the pastries.QB‑2, Küütri 2, tel. (+372) 53 41 88 74. Open 08:30-18:00; Fri 08:30-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. S­J

Tokumaru The Tallinn chain of Japanese restaurants now has a location Tartu. Tokumaru offers everything from sushi to ramen. A good choice if you’re craving Japanese food and if you’ve got kids, as they’ve got a large play area.QC‑2, Riia 1 (Tartu Kaubamaja), tel. (+372) 56 29 66 10, www.tokumaru.ee.

Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. €€. P­T­U­J­W Tokyo Sushi Baar Popular with fashionable, young locals, Tokyo brings the right blend of Japanese styling and cuisine to the table. You’ll find all your favourite makis and nigiris on offer as well as a few interesting in-house-sushi creations. They even offer a decent selection of Japanese-inspired non-sushi items for those who can’t stand the thought of swallowing a chunk of raw fish, and we think that’s ichiban. QB‑2, Ülikooli 5, tel. (+372) 740 12 18, www.tokyosushibaar.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00; closed Mon. Also at: C-2/3, Riia 2 (Kvartal), tel. (+372) 740 16 30. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. €€. S­V­J­6­W

Nordic Kohvik-resto JOP Anyone seeking out the cutting edge of Tartu’s culinary scene should definitely book a table at this relaxed, little venue in the St. Anthony’s Courtyard. The emphasis here is on Nordic cuisine, a style that stresses fresh, local, seasonal ingredients.

We were certainly impressed with both the presentation and the flavour. In summer, much of the focus shifts to the guild’s courtyard, where the occasional concert can be seen.QB‑1, Lutsu 3, tel. (+372) 58 11 95 97. Open 12:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. €€. P­U­B­S­J­W

Vegan Göök Not so much a restaurant as a vegan food window inside the Genialistide Klubi. Walk up, ring the bell and order off the chalkboard menu, or just ask for recommendations if you don’t read Estonian. Ever had a beet and sweet potato burger? How about a ‘Not Dog’, where a carrot plays the main role? While the food is far from gourmet (we’re talking bar food here), it’s inventive and washes down well with beer.QB‑1, Magasini 5, www.vapperuba.ee. Open 12:00-22:00; Thu, Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat 13:00-02:00; closed Sun. €. P­X­B­I­S­J­6­W facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

new Kuum Krants Tänavagurmee There aren’t too many places to enjoy a good hot dog in Tartu, let alone Estonia, but Kuum Krants Tänavagurmee is a good start. Located inside Tasku shopping centre, they have a few different sausages to choose from, including a curryvurst, as well as all of the toppings you could possibly imagine. In addition to hot dogs, you can also indulge in a few different burgers and a grilled cheese sandwich.QC‑2, Turu 2, tel. (+372) 557 80 47. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:0018:00. €. P­U­S­V­W Ruunipizza & Pannkoogikohvik Pizza and pancakes are part of the name, and this cheerful little café/shop just of Town Hall Square certainly has a wide enough selection of both to blow any diet to smithereens. The menu deluge doesn’t stop there though - they also offer hot pots, soups, salads and even breakfast porridge.QB‑2, Rüütli 2, tel. (+372) 743 35 75/(+372) 51 92 92 11, www. ruunipizza.ee. Open 08:15-22:00; Sun 09:15-22:00; Fri, Sat 08:15-23:00. €. T­B­S­V­J­6­W­i

World Cuisines Burro Located inside the Tasku shopping centre, Burro brings Mexican food to Tartu. While it’s not the “authentic cuisine” it claims to be, there is nevertheless a long menu of all your Mexican favourites. On weekdays they offer daily lunch specials, which make for a nice quick bite.QC‑2, Turu 2 (Tasku Centre), tel. +372 526 56 80, www.burro. ee. Open 10:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-22:00. €€€.

Cafe-Restaurant Pierre This place couldn’t get any more French if it brought in a troupe of mimes. The popular, Town Hall Square establishment works as both a café and a restaurant, so you can just as easily pop in for a coffee and a look at the cake and truffle counter as you can slide behind one of the wooden tables for a full meal experience. Those who book ahead can dine in the adjacent Bel Ami room, which offers the same menu in more formal surroundings.QB‑2, Raekoja plats 12, tel. (+372) 730 46 80, www.pierre.ee. Open 08:00-22:00; Fri 08:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. €€€. P­T­B­J­6­W­i 2019/2020

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Restaurants Gaberrito’s We’re not quite sure where the flaming Egyptian grill is, but Gaberrito’s is tasty nonetheless. Offering a fusion of Middle Eastern and Mexican cuisines, this is the place to come for freshness and spice.QB‑1, K.E. Von Baeri 2, tel. (+372) 56 71 81 84. Open 12:00-22:30; Fri, Sat 12:0023:30; Sun 12:00-22:00; closed Mon. €. S Georgian Kitchen The first thing that hits you as you’re climbing the stairs to get into this popular haunt is the smell the frying meat - almost as if it’s part of the welcome. We certainly felt welcomed when they found us a table in a back corner on a busy Saturday night. The long list of Georgian favourites might require some explanation for the uninitiated, so don’t be afraid to ask. If in doubt, go for the old, Georgian staple: šašlõkk (kebab).QB‑2, Rüütli 8, tel. (+372) 58 27 00 03. Open 12:00-23:00; Mon 18:0023:00. €€. S­J München Tartu’s answer to Oktoberfest (if indeed Oktoberfest were a restaurant) comes in the form of this popular cellar venue where the crowds file in for bratwurst, beer and a herzliches Willkommen. In fact, with all the upbeat marching music and Bavarian mementos, you might be tempted to start hopping around in a pair of lederhosen. The food we had was interesting, if somewhat average.QB‑2, Küütri 2, tel. (+372) 53 08 00 66. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. B­J

44 Tartu In Your Pocket

Sheriff Saloon Twangy country music and enough cowboy clichés to choke a horse are just part of what earns this cellar restaurant its authentic ‘burger and steak house’ badge. It’s the extensive menu, which also includes ribs, wings, fajitas and ‘Western finger food’, that seals the deal. Only those with Texas-sized bellies should attempt the 4-patty ‘Killer Sheriff’ burger.

Ever wonder why the sheriff ain’t around no more?QB‑2, Gildi 7, tel. (+372) 58 97 32 09, www.sheriffsaloon.com.

Open Mon, Tue, Wed 11:00-22:00; Thu, Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. P­B­S­J­6­W Tšehhov This sophisticated, yet casual Russian restaurant is tucked away in a courtyard in Tartu’s Old Town. Enjoy classical Russian cuisine made with heart and served with real hospitality, just like you would expect in any home. We quite liked the dumplings, but you can’t really go wrong with anything on the menu.QB‑2, Ülikooli 5, tel. (+372) 522 06 59, www.tsehhov.ee. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. J Vassilissa Inviting, relaxing and elegant in a slightly kitschy way, this roomy establishment just off Town Hall Square is exactly what we look for in a Russian restaurant. The bliny (pancakes) with mushrooms were fantastic and the fish Russian-style was surprisingly quiche-like. The smiling service was another plus.QC‑2, Kompanii 2, tel. (+372) 646 20 01, www.vassilissa.eu. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:0024:00. €€. P­T­U­B­S­J­6­W

tartu.inyourpocket.com

Cafés

A sweet bite and a perfect cup of coffee is always just around the corner in Tartu.

Serving as places to meet and mingle, not just fill your belly, cafés play an important role in the town’s cultural life. Try them all and find the one that best suits your style.

Cafés Anna Edasi The name of this quaint little Karlova-area café is kind of a play on words using the name of one of the owner’s grandmothers and a phrase in Estonian which means ‘pass it on’. And after tasting their delicious little cakes you will certainly want to pass the news on. Perfect for an afternoon of drinking coffee and mulling over the finely crafted words of a great book.QF‑3, Tähe 20, tel. (+372) 730 45 32, www.annaedasi.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Sun. €. P­T­S­L­6­W Armastus Café Amore Definitely the most romantic of Tartu’s cafés, Amore is a place to sink into cushy seats and enjoy a light meal while listening to tunes of love and longing. It’s also fine stop for pastries, cakes and tea, and by night it takes full advantage of its prime, Rüütli street locale and turns into a casual drinking spot.QB‑2, Rüütli 5, tel. (+372) 782 55 22. Open 09:00-23:00; Thu 09:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-05:00. €.

P­B­S­J­6­W­i Café Shakespeare One would expect a café in Tartu’s Vanemuine Theatre to have a somewhat theatrical air, but Shakespeare goes far beyond the requirement. For a café, this is a large establishment, colourful and comfortable, with framed sketches of Victorian costume designs. The atmosphere here is far more creative than the cuisine, however, more than anything facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

Shakespeare is an evening destination with live piano or guitar performances on Thursday to Saturday nights.QC‑3, Vanemuise 6, tel. (+372) 744 01 40, www.shakespeare.ee.

Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-01:00. €€. B­E­J­W Café Truffe This sharp, multi-roomed place on Town Hall Square seems to be a particular hit for its modern, comfy style and tasty food. It’s a fine spot to chat over tea or better still, indulge in a full meal of the international variety. Everything we tried was a winner and our bruschetta was so colourfully presented we couldn’t resist posting photos of it online.QC‑2, Raekoja plats 16, tel. (+372) 742 88 40, www.truffe.ee. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-01:00. €€. P­T­U­B­S­J­6­W Café Villa Margaretha You might have to break a small sweat to get here, but the hike will be rewarding for anyone looking for something a little different. Although our meals were not a cut above average, the authentic roaring twenties atmosphere and smiling service would bring us back again.QF‑3, Tähe 11/13, tel. (+372) 731 18 20, www.margaretha.ee. Open 08:0022:00; Sun 08:00-12:00. €€. P­T­B­I­S­L­6­W­ Caffeine The name says it all - this is where you can stop in for your daily dose of fresh roast before this morning’s lecture.

The international chain provides a pleasant atmosphere for sitting and sipping too, so no need to rush with that flat white.QC‑2, Küüni 5B, tel. (+372) 59 11 83 62, www. caffeine.ee. Open 08:00-21:00; Fri 08:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. Also at: C-2, Turu 2 (Tasku), tel. 56 80 66 60.

Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. S­J­W 2019/2020

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Cafés Cookbook What gives this classy, little café its name is the fact that it’s attached to the Rahva Raamat bookshop. So if you can’t wait to break open that steamy, romantic physics textbook you just bought, this the place to do it. Pastas, risottos and soups are on offer. There are indeed cookbooks set in the tables in case you want to brush up on your culinary skills – and your Estonian.QC‑2, Turu 2 (Tasku Centre), tel. (+372) 731 22 12, www.cookbook.ee. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. €. P­U­S­6­W Crepp A touch of France comes to Tartu’s Old Town in the form of this classic, old-fashioned Parisian-style café. Crepes play heavily in the menu, but you can also find salads, baguettes and quiche. The food leaves nothing to be desired, however it’s often quite busy so you’ll want to leave a little time in order to wait for a table.QB‑2, Rüütli 16, tel. (+372) 742 21 33, www.crepp.ee. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €. B­I­S­J­6­W new GMP Patisserie Enjoy a little bit of Paris in Tartu. GMP Patisserie’s interior is sleek and stylish; its cosy tables offer the perfect setting for a romantic dinner or casual lunch with friends. Stop in for a cake or coffee - both are divine. Or, taste your way through their French-inspired menu. A must on any culinary tour of Tartu.QC‑2, Küüni 5b, tel. (+372) 51 94 06 07, www.patisserie.ee. Open 08:00-21:00; Fri 08:00-23:00; Sat 09:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-18:00. €€. P­T­U­B­S­ V­J­6­W­i Hektor Café Part of the Hektor Design Hostel, this funky, modern café offers a menu for every diet. But if you’re looking for something quick, enjoy a great coffee with one of their delectable homemade desserts.QF‑3, Riia 26, tel. (+372) 740 55 60, www.hektorhostels.com/et/kohvik-tartus.

Open 07:30-21:00; Sat 08:00-21:00; Sun 08:00-16:00. €€.

P­B­W­i Karlova Kohv A perfect representative of the off-beat Karlova neighbourhood where it resides, this little local haunt somehow creates a cosy feel in an edgy, half-renovated space. Expect to find international students and good, affordable coffee.QG‑3, Tähe 63, tel. (+372) 51 98 06 59/(+372) 524 33 20. Open 08:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:0016:00; closed Mon. €. T­B­I­S­L­6­i Kohvipaus This tiny place on Rüütli is both central and filled to the brim with great pastries and fresh bites too. The prices are even reasonable enough for anyone living off their parents’ weekly money transfer - just get there early or the good stuff will already be gone.QB‑2, Rüütli 8, tel. (+372) 733 00 21, www.kohvipaus.ee. Open 07:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. B­S­J­i 46 Tartu In Your Pocket

Hektor Café

Krempel It’s roomy, comfy and serves coffee in gigantic cups, but the reason we’ll keep coming back to Krempel is that it offers the best café breakfasts we’ve had in a loooong time.

The daring menu combinations here just seem to work.

Other meals are also offered - check the chalkboard menu and ask for interpretation, if needed.QB‑2, Rüütli 12, tel. (+372) 445 15 10. Open 08:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-22:00. €. T­B­S­J­6­W­i Lokaal Suudlevad Tudengid Kissing Students (named after the famous fountain) is really a couple of places in one. Downstairs features a more traditional, brick-lined café complete with a cigar-lounge where you can savour a stogie perhaps even hand-rolled on the thighs of a Cuban virgin. The upstairs sports a 1920s-themed lounge with windows looking out over Town Hall Square. They offer reasonably priced international fare including pastas, risottos and various meaty fillets, among others.QC‑2, Raekoja plats 10, tel. (+372) 59 18 20 03, www.suudlevadtudengid.ee. Open 11:0022:00; Mon 11:00-21:00; Fri 11:00-01:00; Sat 12:0001:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. P­X­T­B­S­J­6­W Pagaripoisid Part of a chain of bakery/cafés, this certainly lacks a little in originality and atmosphere. But the pastries and cakes are decent, as are the prices. The majority of those who frequent the ‘Baker Boys’ grab things to go.QC‑2, Küüni 7, tel. (+372) 56 21 50 66, www.pagaripoisid.ee.

Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-18:00.

B­S­J Pagari Pood Though there’s really not much to the little Baker’s Shop near the Town Hall, it always seems to attract a crowd. The secret seems to be cranking out a large variety of pastries, all ridiculously inexpensive, on a take-away basis. Coffee is a mere €1.QB‑2, Raekoja plats 2. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sun, Sat. €. N­S­J tartu.inyourpocket.com

Cafés Pihlaka Known throughout Estonia for its cake shop goods, Pihlaka brings its show to Tartu in the form of this classic bakery/ café where young and old alike swarm in for shots of sugar and caffeine. We know it’s hard, but try not to leave nose prints on the display cases.QC‑2, Poe 10, tel. (+372) 730 45 10, www.pihlaka.ee. Open 09:00-20:00; Sun 09:0019:00. S­J Rabarber Set in a stylishly revamped tennis centre just a few steps down from the cathedral ruins, Rabarber (Rhubarb) is a worthy stopping place for a bite. Bear in mind that it’s open only on weekdays, at which time it offers a buffetstyle lunch. Season permitting, you might be able to catch a match or two to go with your dessert.QA‑2, K.E. von Baeri 6, tel. (+372) 504 78 09, www.spargel.ee. Open 11:00-15:00; closed Sat, Sun. €€. P­T­B­S­L­6­W Reval Café As anyone familiar with this Tallinn-based chain can tell you, when it comes to cafés, the people at Reval really know what they’re doing. The debut Tartu version lives up to the high standard, providing a large, pleasantly-decorated room with plenty of natural light. Its menu goes far beyond coffee and pastries, extending to soups, fillets, gelato and breakfasts served until early afternoon.QC‑3, Riia 4, tel. (+372) 745 15 60, www.revalcafe.ee. Open 07:30-22:00; Sun 08:30-21:00; Fri 07:30-23:00; Sat 08:3023:00. S Säde kohviteek ‘Contemporary cosiness’ is probably the best way to describe this friendly, central coffee joint. There’s plenty of firewood in the décor and no fireplace. Overall a good place to get your caffeine fix and plug in your laptop.

QB‑2, Rüütli 4, tel. (+372) 53 61 85 31, www.kohviteek. ee. Open Mon, Tue 08:00-22:00; Wed, Thu 08:00-23:00; Fri 08:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00.

P­B­S­J­6­W­i Spargel This low-key café, located just a stone’s throw away from the centre, makes its home in a stylish, Art Nouveau building it shares with the city’s creative industries bureau. It’s quite a decent place to eat, especially given the emphasis on local ingredients. You can also drop in for a cup of wine (that’s right, a cup) or just hang out and absorb the creative vibes. The café also doubles as a commercial art gallery - come in for the paintings and stay for the cakes.

QC‑3, Kalevi 13, tel. (+372) 735 39 11, www.spargel.ee.

Open 11:00-21:30; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€.

T­B­S­L­6­W Tassikoogid The name literally means ‘cupcakes’, and that’s exactly what you’ll find - along with decent coffee - in this cutesy, pink café in Tartu’s hipster quarter. The creations even include little cakes on a stick and ‘mini cupcakes’, which facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

may be a good idea considering how cramped this place can get.QC‑2, Tähe 21, tel. (+372) 332 82 66, www. tassikoogid.ee. Open 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-15:00.

B­S Ülikooli Kohvik The legendary University Café is well worth a visit for its old-fashioned interiors alone. You can settle into Art Nouveau paradise complete with high ceilings and glasscovered atrium. Fine Estonian and European cuisine is is served up amidst candle light and tinkling piano music.

When the weather is warm, head to the upstairs terrace.

QB‑2, Ülikooli 20, tel. (+372) 737 54 02, www.kohvik. ut.ee. Please check website for opening hours. €€.

B­E­S­J­W V Café V Café, a cosy and romantic Parisian café, has both healthy and decadent options to choose from. Starters, main dishes, beverages, and of course cakes, are affordable and exquisite. There is also a fun play area for kids, where the smallest members of the family can learn how to set a table and make coffee or a smoothie.QC‑3, Riia 2, tel. (+372) 56 98 89 55, www.vspahotel.ee/kohvik/kohvik_ vcafe. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. P­T­U­ S­L­6­W­i Werner Werner has actually been around since 1895, but after its transformation into a lounge café, you’d never guess. Grab your coffee and snacks at the well-stocked pastry counter in front, then head to the back room for cushy chairs and piped-in Jazz. Be sure to check out the long menu, which offers breakfasts and lunch mains at incredibly friendly prices.QB‑2, Ülikooli 11, tel. (+372) 742 63 77, www. werner.ee. Open 07:30-23:00; Fri 07:30-24:00; Sat 08:0024:00; Sun 09:00-21:00. P­T­B­S­J­6­W­ YliCool The crisp, precision service at this café-lounge is just what you’d expect from a place inside the upscale Barclay Hotel. Beyond that, it keeps the air relaxed with jazz music and funky, white chairs. Salads served in a bottle were a welcome touch.QB‑2, Ülikooli 8, tel. (+372) 483 33 90, www.ylicool.ee. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€. P­T­S­J­6­W­ 2019/2020

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Nightlife

Tartu by night. Photo: Shutterstock.

Due to the fact that it’s a student town, Tartu has a respectable variety of pubs and clubs for a city its size, and quite a few of them exhibit a kind of creative daring or underground feeling that you won’t find elsewhere in Estonia.

Bars & Pubs Arhiiv Archive is an unrefined cellar bar that has become a huge hit with the city’s off-beat crowd. That popularity is probably related to the ‘all are welcome’ attitude and to the cool, club-like events (check the schedule) that frequently happen here. On other nights it’s fine for cheap cognac, chess and slurred conversations about professor whass-sname.QB‑3, Vanemuise 19, tel. (+372) 58 95 35 94. Open Wed, Thu 18:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00; closed Sun, Mon, Tue. B­I­L­6­W Barlova Perfectly representing the spirit of Tartu’s artsy Karlova neighbourhood (Bar + Karlova = Barlova, get it?), this relaxed, little haunt attracts every manner of student as well as those who are just too laid-back to be hipsters. The Italian owner has become somewhat of a local celeb and is probably the reason this place serves the best coffee in town. Barlova is equally good for a quick pint or game of Scrabble with friends.QG‑3, Tähe 29, tel. (+372) 58 44 89 20. Open 17:00-01:00; Fri 17:00-03:00; Sat 19:00-03:00; closed Sun. B­E­L­6­W Big Ben Pub A bright, red phone box, a portrait of Her Majesty... this place is even more English than pubs in England! A vast, two-level affair, Big Ben is roomy enough to accommodate several cricket teams. Better still, phones on the tables let you ring the bar or tele-flirt with other patrons. If you’re feeling posh, head upstairs to the cigar/wine/whiskey 48 Tartu In Your Pocket

area and sink into one its leather wing chairs. The menu at Big Ben naturally includes fish & chips, but you can also get a huge meat dish called 221b Baker Street, as well as around 30 varieties of beer.QC‑3, Riia 4, tel. (+372) 730 26 62, www.bigbenpub.ee. Open 07:00-24:00; Fri 07:0002:00; Sat 08:00-02:00. X­B­I­E­W DeTolly Õllebaar Looking for a fun spot for a brew? Duck into this unassuming, cellar dive behind Faster’s to find a selection of 200+ bottled craft beers along with some rare whiskies. DeTolly is run by brew aficionados, so don’t be afraid to ask for recommendations or share your opinion with the other folks who crowd in.QC‑2, Küüni 5A, tel. (+372) 56 29 23 30, www. detollybaar.ee. Open Tue 16:00-23:00; Wed, Thu 16:0002:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-04:00; closed Sun, Mon. S­J Emajõe Pruulikoja õllekelder Just below Tartu’s central market you’ll find this cosy beer cellar. Don’t let the somewhat ‘secret’ entrance discourage you, inside there’s an ever-changing selection of local craft beers and dishes inspired by the produce available upstairs in the market hall.QC‑2, Vabaduse puiestee 1, tel. (+372) 518 68 72, www.emajoepruulikoda.com. Open 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-18:00. new Forrest Tartu Have you ever walked into a place that just has a good vibe? Perhaps it’s the live plant wall or perhaps it’s that everything they do, they do well. And Forrest does quite a bit! Downstairs you’ll find the restaurant, which is both inspired and affordable, and also offers breakfast, starting from 07:30. Its chefs have put together a menu that changes frequently, but consistently offers excellent vegetarian options. Upstairs is where the action is. There’s a bar, DJ booth, stage, and pingpong tables, and every night of tartu.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife the week there’s something going on. QRüütli 7, www. forrest.ee. Open Tue 07:30-01:00; Wed 07:30-02:00; Thu 07:30-24:00; Fri 07:30-03:00; Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. €€. P­U­S­J­6­W­

QB‑2, Rüütli 2, tel. (+372) 53 30 80 69, www.pirogov.ee.

Open Sun 17:00-03:00; Mon, Tue 11:00-03:00; Wed, Thu 11:00-04:00; Fri 11:00-05:00; Sat 17:00-05:00. In sum‑ mer months they open daily at 17:00. X­B­J­6­W

Illegaard This cellar bar is a favourite local watering hole and eatery serving simple dishes like burgers, wraps, salads, etc, until late. In fact, their vegan burger gets great reviews!

While there are a few screens for watching sports, the real sports happen in the bar, as many locals come here to play chess or table soccer.QB‑2, Ülikooli 5, tel. (+372) 740 17 14, www.illekas.ee. Open 12:00-01:00; Sun 14:00-01:00; Thu, Fri 12:00-03:00; Sat 14:00-03:00. J­6­W

Meat Market Cocktail Bar In the market for some meat? With cool DJ beats, a buzzing atmosphere and plenty of mingling space, this extension of the swank Meat Market restaurant works well for both senses of the word, i.e. it comes with its own carnivore-oriented menu and plenty of flirting potential. Add a long list of professionally-made cocktails and you’ve got all the makings for a high-protein night.QB‑2, Küütri 3, tel. (+372) 653 34 55, www.meatmarket.ee. Open Wed, Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. S­J

Illegaard

Kivi Baar Estonians claim to be nature worshipers, so this little bar with a big hulking tree in the middle should make them feel right at home. Its neolithic trappings aside, the Stone Bar is simply a comfortable place to hang out. We were impressed by the choice of music, imported brews and we’ll definitely be coming back. In fact we did and enjoyed an excellent ginger beer or three while we were there. As with the other locales on this section of Rüütli, the party usually spills out onto to the street and turns into a block-party of sorts.QB‑2, Rüütli 13, tel. (+372) 551 96 56. Open Tue, Wed 20:00-03:00; Thu 20:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 20:00-05:00; closed Mon, Sun. Age restriction 21+. B­E­J­6­W Krooks Most Estonian towns have a place for rockers to gather, and in Tartu, that place is Krooks. That’s not to say that others won’t be welcome. It’s worth ducking in here, if anything just to see the weird strings of beer flags, medieval armour and other assorted junk that decorates the place. Krooks is also popular for pub meals, and beer snacks.QB‑1, Jakobi 34, tel. (+372) 744 15 06, www.krooks.ee. Open 18:0002:00; Sat 18:00-04:30. B­S­J­6­W

Möku Möku, named for a kind of born loser in Estonian, serves as the main bar of the town’s grooviest alternative nightclub, Genialistide Klubi. Naturally, that means the place radiates a shabby-chic vibe, both during the day, when members of its die-hard regular crowd use it as a second living room, and on club event nights, when the music lovers drift in.

Drop in to sample the interesting selection of imported beers and experience the mellow, chummy atmosphere.

QB‑1, Magasini 5, tel. (+372) 740 45 14, www.moku.ee.

Open 12:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-04:00; closed Sun. Age restriction 18+. B­J­6­W

riverside venues As the weather turns warmer, you’ll notice the riverside come to life, especially opposite the Atlantis House where pop-up food and drink venues open for the season. It’s a sign that summer has arrived in Tartu. This lively area offers simple, gourmet street food, signature drinks and cocktails, and everything in between. No trip to Tartu is complete without an afternoon or evening spent here.

Lokaal Pirogov Named for a renowned Tartu University doctor, this watering hole has a decidedly medical theme that includes ceiling lamps meant to look like bloody needles. Apart from its alcoholic cures, it offers table football and little booths in back for those in need of more private consultations. facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

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Nightlife late eats Faster’s Express Slide into this down-market eatery and join the queue for Faster’s late-night offerings, all of which seem to come fried or deep-fried. There’s even a shashlik (kebab) burger. We can’t vouch for the quality either way, but at 4 o’clock in the morning, it will certainly fill that certain hole left by six hours of binge drinking.QC‑2, Küüni 7 (entrance from Ülikooli 3/5), tel. (+372) 740 03 08, www.fasters.ee. Open Mon, Tue 10:00-04:00; Wed, Thu 10:00-06:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-07:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. S­J Naiiv One doesn’t need to be ‘naive’ to enjoy a few good drinks at this hole-in-the-wall, parlour of sorts. The vibe here has ‘Tartu’ written all over it - albeit perhaps a little more upscale and the crowd is also slightly more mature than some of the nightspots in its genre. Reasonably priced drinks, friendly atmosphere and odd artwork make this a decent locale.QB‑2, Vallikraavi 6, tel. (+372) 740 01 97, www.naiiv.ee. Open 18:00-01:00; Thu 18:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-03:00; closed Sun. Age restriction 18+.

B­E­J­6­W Pahad Poisid The name means ‘Bad Boys’ and the walls do indeed feature Hollywood tough guys of the Dirty Harry variety, but the most naughty thing we’ve ever seen the boys (and girls) do here is drink beer and watch sports on TV. It’s essentially a good, classic pub just off Town Hall Square where the food is filling and the seats are comfy.QB‑2, Küüni 2, tel. (+372) 744 14 84, www.pahadpoisid.ee.

Open 11:00-01:00; Mon 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:0002:00; Sun 11:00-24:00. B­S­J Pubi RP9 Day or evening, this new watering hole in Tartu’s Town Hall Square is bustling. With decently priced beer, an inventive gastropub menu with many items prepared in a Josper oven, and sports almost every night of the week, it’s no wonder. QC‑2, Raekoja plats 9, tel. (+372) 734 11 66, www.rp9.ee/. Open 11:00-01:00; Mon 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-24:00. B­J­6­W new Pühaste Kelder Craft beer connoiseurs will not want to miss a visit to this cellar bar. Pühaste, a local craft beer brewer, opened the “cellar” to showcase not only their beers, but other local and international brews as well. The cosy atmosphere, together with the 21 different beers available, as well as great food make this a must-visit when in Tartu.QB‑2, Rüütli 11, tel. (+372) 775 13 13, www.puhastebeer.com/ kelder. Open 17:00-01:00; Mon 17:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00; closed Sun. 50 Tartu In Your Pocket

Püssirohukelder If you’re a newcomer to Tartu, make at least one stop at the Gunpowder Cellar while you’re here. The world’s tallest pub is a former gunpowder vault that was carved into a downtown hillside in the mid-18th Century. If you’re hungry, try the soup served in a bread bowl or the dangerous garlic bread dish called ‘kiss me more’. The very decent red house beer can be ordered by the litre. The cellar tends to fill up when live bands hit the stage (you may have to pay admission).QB‑2, Lossi 28, tel. (+372) 730 35 55, www. pyss.ee. Open 12:00-02:00; Mon 12:00-22:00; Tue 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Admission when live bands perform €5 - 8. B­E­S­J­W Ristiisa pubi Tartu’s favourite mafia-themed pub (that’s mafia-themed, not mafia-owned) is Godfather, a fairly big establishment in a busy, Old Town pedestrian area. Generally it’s just like any other classic, old-fashioned pub - the only difference is that Al Capone and other famous mobsters are honoured on the walls, and there are other hints of antique Americana.QC‑2, Küüni 7, tel. (+372) 730 39 70, www. ristiisapubi.ee. Open 11:00-01:00; Mon 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-24:00. B­J­W new SaTiir This funky local hangout has all the right ingredients for a fun night in Tartu. With a fabulous selection of craft beer, tasty cocktails and a relaxed and bohemian vibe, what more could you want?QB‑2, Rüütli 12. Open Wed, Thu 19:30-24:00; Fri, Sat 19:30-03:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Shooters Tartu For that pulsing, party feel, it’s hard to beat this popular, ‘before-you-hit-the-clubs’ shooter bar - it comes complete with upbeat music and its own small dance floor.

Here patrons slide up to the bar to order embarrassingly-named shots, all sold in sets of five. Just be warned that you probably shouldn’t order two sets for yourself if you actually want to make it to the clubs.QB‑2, Vallikraavi 4, tel. (+372) 51 92 16 44. Open Wed 22:00-04:00; Thu 22:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Age restriction 18+. X­J­6­W

Shooters Tartu

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Nightlife

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Tartu Aleksander This pub is full of history, as it’s located in the old Tartu Gas Factory, which opened in 1880. Tartu Aleksander is essentially a beer hall where older locals flock to dance to country tunes. Live bands perform here on weekends, at which time you may have to pay to get in.QG‑3, Aleksandri 42, tel. (+372) 734 47 66, www.tartualeksander.ee. Open Mon, Tue 11:30-17:00; Wed, Thu 11:30-21:00; Fri 11:30-03:00; Sat 12:00-03:00; closed Sun. X­B­I­E­S­L­W

casinos Olympic Casino Tasku Fresh and glitzy, Olympic has a small bar that serves bargain-priced beer. It’s mostly slot machines, but you can also bet on sports events, some of which are shown here on TV.QC‑2, Turu 2 (Tasku), tel. (+372) 630 53 94, www.olympic-casino.com. Open 24hrs.

Age restriction 21+.

Trepp Owned by the same people who created the delicious café downstairs, Trepp, or ‘stairs’ in English, is a shots bar set in an old-world space that has been styled down to look like a student’s apartment, only without the roaches. Choose your shots, offered as singles or sets of five, from the chalkboard menu.QB‑2, Rüütli 16, tel. (+372) 552 87 10, www. treppbaar.wixsite.com/trepp. Open 20:00-04:00; closed Sun, Mon, Tue. X­S­J­6­W

Olympic Casino Ülikooli There’s a slight rock-and-roll/guitar theme going on at this flashy, downtown casino, but mainly it’s about playing the slots, poker, roulette and blackjack. There’s also reasonably-priced beer on tap.QB‑2, Ülikooli 8A, tel. (+372) 630 53 46, www.olympic-casino.com.

Open 24hrs. Also at: E-4, Ringtee 75A (Lõunake‑ skus). Open 24 hours. Age restriction 21+. J

Willy & Rudy gastropub Stylishly decorated with a minimalist botanical theme, Willy & Rudy is the gathering place for all the hip and cool people of Tartu. This gastrobar has a small menu of pub classics with an international twist, an extensive gin menu, and some fabulous cocktails too. Service can be slow, but if you’re not in a hurry, sit back and soak in the atmosphere.QRaekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 735 33 30, www. willyjarudy.ee. Open Wed, Thu 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-02:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. B­S­J

Zavood Popular with the alternative crowd, Zavood is a funky, little dive bar that’s somehow managed to maintain its popularity through the years. The name resembles the Russian word for ‘factory’ and there’s certainly a raw, industrial feel to the place - car seats and water valves line the walls and cheap drinks keep the crowds thirsty for more.QB‑1, Lai 30, tel. (+372) 744 13 21, www.zavood.ee. Open 19:00-04:00; Thu 19:0005:00; Fri 19:00-06:00; Sat 19:00-05:00. E­J­W

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Nightlife Clubs Club Illusion One of Tartu’s most exclusive nightclubs makes its home in what used to be a Stalin-era cinema house, and it has the antique projectors out front to prove it. The theatrical look intensifies inside, where the lavish, draped interior includes massive, mirrored balls and balconies looming over the dance floor. A mellower upstairs lounge is done up in an artistic chandelier-and-dripping-paint motif - a lot like the haunted house ride at Disneyland ...but with more blondes in short skirts. A hip diet of trendy beats makes up the DJ menu.

QD‑1, Raatuse 97, tel. (+372) 742 43 41, www.illusion.ee.

Open Wed, Fri, Sat 23:00-04:00; closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. Admission €3 - 15, age restriction 18+. X­U­E­L Level Look! Someone froze an Estonian nightclub from 15 years back, defrosted it and stuck it in this Tartu cellar! At least that’s what Level seems like, judging from all the twirling lights, leopard-print minidresses and zealous security guards. This would probably make a good destination for history or anthropology students who want to pick up loads of observational research material. At least the price was right when we were there (entrance = 1 thorough pat-down, otherwise free), and the music was semi-danceable.QC‑2, Ülikooli 6a, tel. (+372) 56 65 45 28. Open Tue 24:00-03:00; Wed, Thu 24:00-05:00; Fri, Sat 24:00-07:00; closed Mon, Sun. J Maasikas Maasikas means strawberry in Estonian. It also means hickey, which may be an insight into the hopes of the 30+ crowd that tends to gather here. The club is something of an upscale club for Tartu, with its relatively swank feel and higher prices than similar establishments. It’s also the longest running nightclub catering to the type of crowd found here. When we last stopped by the place it was packed, but not so much so that you had a hard time getting a drink or finding space to get your dance on - in fact we found it not overly difficult to get ‘picked-up’ here, even though we tried hard not to. Various theme nights and some pretty decent DJs round out the experience. Mushroom-themed smoking lounge as well.QC‑2, Küüni 7, tel. (+372) 736 62 73, www. maasikas.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00. Closed Mon Thu, Sun. Admission €8. Age restriction 21+. X­J­W Rock & Roll Heaven This slightly-out-of-the-centre club is so underground that most locals haven’t even heard of it. If you manage to make your way here, you’ll find a cellar full of rock posters and beer sold in plastic cups. Typical nights see a number of live acts from around Estonia performing everything from funk to metal. Needless to say, those in the crowd are not your typical club bunnies and the dresscode, although not officially regulated, should involve various shades of black.

QA‑3, Tiigi 76a, tel. (+372) 742 20 98, www.rocknroll.ee.

Open only for special events and live acts, see website for details. Age restriction 18+. X­E­L­W 52 Tartu In Your Pocket

hookah lounges Shisha Studio Tucked away atop up a flight of stairs in an Old Town building, this hidden shisha and cocktail bar has a surprising amount of space, much of which is taken up by a row of group-sized tables sectioned off by curtains in quasi-Arabian fashion. The place is big enough for your whole crew to lounge, but don’t even think about coming without a reservation - it’s just that popular. Though they don’t offer any real food, management are totally fine with customers ordering in delivery.QB‑2, Rüütli 1, tel. (+372) 51 97 18 72, www. shishastudio.ee. Open 18:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 18:0003:00; closed Mon, Sun. Also at: B-1, Kompanii 10, tel. (+372) 53 23 51 11. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. X­J VIPIIP Hookah Lounge Climb up a set of creaky, wooden stairs to find VIP Pipe, the absolute best (read ‘only’) place on the city’s main pub avenue catering to the flavoured tobacco crowd.

All in all, the lounge is a decent place to settle in for pipe and a drink, and the seating is just right for a little group. Just don’t expect the highest levels of sophistication. Decorators seemed to be going for a cosy, exotic lounge look, but somehow created an officelike vibe.QB‑2, Rüütli 12, tel. (+372) 733 02 22, www. vipiip.ee. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00.

X­J­W Vabank Tartu This centrally located, upscale club follows in the footsteps of its bigger sister in Tallinn - offering somewhat private areas and some excellent cocktails. The decor is posh, the music danceable and the staff were quite helpful. Certainly a club to hit for the upwardly mobile and more mature crowd. Decent smoking lounge as well - there are actual upholstered seats and it didn’t feel too dirty to indulge in the nasty habit. Dresscode smart casual.QB‑2, Ülikooli 8A, tel. (+372) 660 66 93, www.vabankclub.ee. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00.

Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €8. Age restriction 21+. X­J

Wine bars Vein ja Vine A student hangout through and through, Vein ja Vine is a buzzing destination crammed with little tables and deep conversations. You can order a reasonably-priced bottle from the chalkboard menu, or go for the house wine at just €12 a litre. A few antipasti, paninis and cakes are available too. On weekends, arrive early if you want any hope of getting a seat.QB‑2, Rüütli 8, tel. (+372) 58 16 41 76, www.veinjavine.ee. Open 17:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 17:0002:00; closed Sun. B­J­6­W tartu.inyourpocket.com

Hotels

The luxurious Antonius.

Due to the city’s increasing popularity, new hotels are springing up everywhere. However, just because there is a lot of choice these days in Tartu, doesn’t mean that you should just show up in town without a reservation, so book as far ahead as you can to guarantee getting a place that suits both your style and your price range. Prices listed below include VAT and breakfast unless otherwise indicated.

SYMBOL key L Guarded parking Z Anti-allergy rooms

6 Pet-friendly

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

I Fireplace

Upmarket

R LAN connection

C Swimming pool

Antonius Steeped in history, this building dates back to at least the 16th Century. The luxurious Antonius is located just across from the University of Tartu main building and much detail was given to its restoration. In fact, many original architectural details can be seen throughout. Of course, its ‘five-star’ level of quality ensures its guests will feel like royalty no matter who they are. Rooms on the 4th floor have a romantic, cosy feel, complete with wooden ceiling-beams and a great view of Tartu’s rooftops, while the Antonius suite… well, let’s just say an Estonian President overnighted there and he seemed pleased with the accommodations.QB‑2, Ülikooli 15, tel. (+372) 737 03 77, www.hotelantonius.ee. singles €89 - 130, doubles €99 - 160, suites €200 - 350 Extra bed €30. Z­P ­G ­U ­I ­J ­W ­K ­H

K Restaurant

J Old Town location

D Sauna

W WiFi

Art hotel Pallas by Tartuhotels This spiffy hotel in a downtown business/shopping centre has great views both inside and out. Choose a room on the street side (as opposed to the quieter side) and you can easily spy on the crowds moving into Old Town. Much more fascinating is the interior facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

category guide Based on the average price of a double room.

Upmarket: over 60€ Midrange: 40 - 60€ Budget: up to 40€

- in homage to the Pallas art school that operated here before the war, all the rooms are decorated with modern art paintings. The contemporary lobby could almost pass for a trendy café. Breakfast is served in the Big Ben pub, next door.QC‑3, Riia 4, tel. (+372) 730 12 00, fax (+372) 730 12 01, www.pallas.tartuhotels. ee. singles €60 - 73, doubles €69 - 109, suites €141 Extra bed €27, pets €15. Z­P ­G ­U ­R ­6 ­W ­ K­H hhh 2019/2020

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Hotels apartment rental Domus Dorpatensis Domus Dorpatensis is actually a science and liberal arts foundation that happens to rent out guest apartments in a building right next to the Town Hall. Rooms are well-equipped with everything you might need for self-catering and a comfortable night’s stay. One of the rooms has its own sauna. Downstairs in the courtyard, you can enjoy a meal at one of Tartu’s most popular restaurants, UmbRoht. Please check their website for booking and detailed information on all the available apartments.QB‑2, Ülikooli 7, tel. (+372) 53 33 30 31, www.dorpatensis.ee/guest-apartments. 10 apart‑ ments €50 - 135 Extra bed €15. Breakfast €5 - 10.

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Domus Dorpatensis

Konrad Apartments You’d never guess that such a sharp-looking, 21stcentury building could be hidden in this courtyard right, smack in the centre of Old Town. Konrad’s eight apartments vary in size, from those that can fit three adults to those that can fit six, and each comes with everything you’d need from fully-outfitted kitchens to washing machines. Don’t miss the large rooftop terrace, a perfect place to sip your morning coffee when the sun is out.QB‑2, Küütri 8, tel. (+372) 53 33 26 22, www.konradapartments.ee. apartments €50 - 149.

P­J­6­W Wilde Guest Apartments Definitely among the nicest in this category, Wilde’s apartments are large and tastefully furnished, with stylish, modern kitchens. They come fully loaded with conveniences - everything from ironing boards to internet connections. The bigger one at Ülikool 6 sports some antique furniture, a bathtub and sauna. All are conveniently within a couple minutes walk of Town Hall Square.QC‑2, Ülikooli 3 & 6, tel. (+372) 511 38 76/(+372) 505 43 02, www.wildeapartments.ee. 5 apartments (€50 - 70). G­J­R 54 Tartu In Your Pocket

Barclay A definite feeling of old-fashioned elegance comes through in this stylish hotel. Rooms in the 1912-era building have high ceilings and artistic décor. You’d never guess that this was a military administrative building in Soviet times. Ask about the room where Chechen President Dudayev had his office. Rooms in front overlook Old Town’s Barclay Square, while others have a view of a treefilled park.QB‑2, Ülikooli 8, tel. (+372) 744 71 00, www. barclayhotell.org. singles €60, doubles €80 - 100, suites €110 - 140 Extra bed €23, pets €10. Z­P­G­U­L­J­ 6­W­K­H Dorpat Modern, stylish, comfortable, friendly staff, lots of amenities and just steps from the bus station and a shopping centre - what more could you ask for? Tartu’s largest hotel is a professionally-run, 205-room affair on the banks of the Emajõgi river. Features include the city’s largest conference centre, a spa and a little, red car parked in the lobby. Guests get vouchers for a morning sauna and swim at the nearby Aura Keskus and room keys are good for free entrance at some local nightclubs. We also found the morning breakfast buffet quite excellent, even if you’re not staying in the hotel it’s well worth the low price.QD‑2, Soola 6, tel. (+372) 733 71 80, www.dorpat.ee. singles €65 - 80, doubles €79 - 101, triples €92 - 129, suites €119 - 155, family room €109 - 121 Extra bed €26, pets €15. Z­P­G­U­L­R­6­W­K­H­F­w hhh Hotel London by Tartuhotels Tartu’s first four-star hotel brings a welcome touch of class to Old Town - there’s even a fountain in the lobby! Rooms are modern and plush, nicely decorated in daring colours, and some have interesting views of the surrounding old streets and rooftops. Big, artistic photos of Tartu add a cerebral touch while the hotel’s restaurant, Polpo, will satisfy your culinary cravings.QB‑2, Rüütli 9, tel. (+372) 730 55 55, fax (+372) 730 55 65, www.london.tartuhotels.ee. singles €77 - 94, doubles €88 - 113, suites €146 - 162 Ex‑ tra bed €27, pets €15. Z­P­G­U­J­R­6­W­K­H hhhh Lydia If we could afford to, we’d move in here. Permanently.

Lydia is the latest offering from the same group that runs the much-respected Dorpat, so in addition to its ideal location just behind Town Hall, it offers a level of swank modernity that’s hard to top. Rooms come in three different classes (Classic, Superior and Executive), all of which come loaded with a long list of goodies like bathrobes, slippers, coffee-making gear, laptop safes, etc. Guests are free to work out in the little gym, chill out in the spa or mix themselves a cocktail in the elegant, self-service lounge, which operates around the clock.QB‑2, Ülikooli 14, tel. (+372) 733 03 77, www.lydia.ee. singles €123 153, doubles €154 - 184, suites €258 - 360, apartments €360 Extra bed €45. Z­P ­G ­U ­I ­J ­W ­K ­H ­C­ D­F hhhh tartu.inyourpocket.com

Hotels Villa Margaretha This delightfully restored Art Nouveau house once again joins the land of the living in the form of a small hotel. The attention to detail in recreating the mood of this home away from home earns it a top spot in our books. Rooms that are warm and quaint leave guests in the realm of a bygone era while at the same time offering up the modern comforts of today. Be sure to enquire about the house’s history while you’re there.

QF‑3, Tähe 11, tel. (+372) 731 18 20, fax (+372) 731 18 33, www.margaretha.ee. Extra bed €25, pets €20. singles €55 - 75, doubles €65 - 85, suites €175. Z­6­ W­K ­H ­D V Spa Hotel and Conference Centre This sparkling hotel, centrally located and attached to the Kvartal Shopping Centre, has so many amenities that guests may not find very many reasons to leave the premises. Whether staying for business or pleasure, the friendly staff will go out of their way to make one feel at home while away from home - both style and comfort are priorities at V. The rooms feature a delightful mix of Old World elegance and modern conveniences.

The in-house restaurant, Joyce, serves up an excellent breakfast and a world class a la carte menu on its two levels. Included in the price, guests are also welcome to enjoy the superb pampering available in the V Spa, complete with massaging jet pools, various saunas and relaxing areas.QC‑3, Riia 2, tel. (+372) 677 66 77, www.vspahotel.ee. singles €85 - 145, doubles €100 160, suites €215 - 245 Extra bed €35. Z­P ­G ­U ­R­ W­K ­H ­C ­D ­F­

Reservations +372 731 4300 sales@tartuhotell.ee Soola 3, 51013, Tartu

Mid-range Aleksandri A decent, mid-priced hotel with fairly new renovation and even little candies on the pillows. Some rooms have saunas and jacuzzis. The city centre is a 15-minute hike from here, but in case you’re thirsty, the huge, popular Őlle Tare beer hall is right next door.QG‑3, Alek‑ sandri 42, tel. (+372) 736 66 59, www.aleksandri.ee. singles €33 - 39, doubles €40 - 47, triples €48 - 57, family room €60 - 73 Extra bed €20, pets €20, break‑ fast €7. Z­G ­L ­R ­6 ­W ­K ­D­w Hansahotell Big, colourful and cosy rooms, some decorated with striped wallpaper, others with brick, set Hansa apart from its rivals. Some suites even have little bar areas.

The real difference at Hansa though is the complex’s Hanseatic-style courtyard, a wide, outdoor tavern with wooden wagons, a windmill and other props. The indoor part of the tavern is equally theatrical, and even has a smoke sauna.QG‑3, Turu 27a, tel. (+372) 737 18 00/(+372) 569 81 700, www.hansahotell.ee. singles €39 - 55, doubles €59 - 79, suites €149 - 199, apart‑ ments €75 - 95 Extra bed €23, pets €20. Z­G ­U­ W­K ­D facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

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Hotels rooms in private homes Iivi Oja B&B It’s quite a hike from the centre - literally over the river and far away - so you might want to consider other transport options if you stay here. The rooms are fairly large, and one even comes with a traditional, woven rug. Guests can use the sauna and a computer in the kitchen. Prices do not include breakfast but it’s possible to order one for a reasonable price.QF‑1, Vaikne 20, tel. (+372) 740 14 29/(+372) 53 81 76 82, www. iivimaja.ee. singles €25, doubles €35, triples €45, quads €55 Breakfast €4. Pets €8, tent €5 a person.

N­G­L­R­6­W­D Liiva B&B Only a short, 10-minute walk from the centre - this is an ideal set up for families, the home-like B&B consists of four twin rooms sharing a kitchen and bathroom, all built onto the back of a residential house. Outdoorsy types should note that there’s plenty of space for pitching a tent or grilling sausages. The family can also arrange transport. English is spoken, as are Estonian and Russian.QF‑2, Liiva 38, tel. (+372) 58 00 42 62/(+372) 55 54 81 80, www.liivakodumajutus.eu. singles €23, doubles €36 Pets €7. Breakfast €3.50. G­L­6­W Riia Villa This lovely, little villa on Riia street comes with romantically-named rooms such as ‘Cleopatra’s Room’, the ‘Aristocrat’, and ‘Romance’. Some are even furnished with bathtubs.

They’ve also got a lovely garden and a sauna complete with cooling pool.QE‑4, Riia 117a, tel. (+372) 738 13 00/(+372) 55 67 76 20, www.riiavilla.ee. singles €29 - 33, doubles €40 - 45 Extra bed €15. G­L­W­D­F Sophia This contemporary hotel option was created by the group behind the upscale London and Pallas hotels with the idea to bring a similar high level of quality at a lower price. We certainly appreciated the crisp design and colourful room interiors. The big difference here is the location - Sophia is attached to the Lõunakeskus shopping mall at the edge of town. That makes the hotel convenient for those who want to take advantage of south Estonia’s largest retail and entertainment complex. A free shuttle will take you from there to the centre in 15 minutes.QE‑4, Ringtee 75, tel. (+372) 638 08 50, www.sophia.tartuhotels.ee. singles €58 - 77, doubles €62 - 92, family room €99 - 110 Extra bed €27. Z­P­U­L­W­K­D­F

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app 56 Tartu In Your Pocket

Tampere Maja Tampere House, named for Tartu’s sister city in Finland, operates some very cosy, home-style guest rooms for Finns and non-Finns alike. The Old Town dwelling is actually one of the oldest buildings in the city, and wooden beams give it an old-fashioned feel. Apartments come with their own kitchens, and there are two additional kitchens that the four other rooms share. Guests are also free to use a computer terminal in the corridor. The house is also a base for cultural exchange, so be prepared to get cultured.QB‑1, Jaani 4, tel. (+372) 738 63 00/(+372) 56 45 38 22, www. tamperemaja.ee. singles €40 - 48, doubles €60 - 79, triples €80 - 99, family room €120 - 132 Extra bed €19.

Pets €10. Caravan €20 + breakfast €7. P­G­L­J­6­ W­H­D Tartu Hotel Probably one of the more cheerful places to stay in Tartu, this hotel next to the bus station is certainly one of the city’s best value-for-money establishments. ‘Superior’ singles and twins are located in the building’s newest wing, while the hotel’s main section offers small but respectable standard rooms, all fully-outfitted and decorated with funky and bright paintings. Guests should check out the modern, little spa, which has three saunas, two hot tubs and its own bar. There’s also a lobby computer to use in case you left your own gadgets at home.QD‑2, Soola 3, tel. (+372) 731 43 00, fax (+372) 731 43 01, www. tartuhotell.ee. singles €47 - 55, doubles €65 - 88, triples €75 - 95, quads €85 - 105, Superior €75 - 120 Extra bed €20. Z­P­G­U­L­J­W­K­H­D­F­

Budget Academus Hostel It’s in the same building as a university dorm, but this place is as civilised as it gets. Each of its bright, modern rooms has own kitchen, bathroom, and TV. There’s also a laundry facility in the building. The fairly central location is a big plus.QB‑3, Pepleri 14, tel. (+372) 53 06 66 20, www. academus.ee. singles €36, doubles €42 Extra bed €6.

G­L­J­R­W Hektor Design Hostel An entirely new hostel concept in Estonia, Hektor is geared toward the savvy traveller who seeks out budget accommodation that’s ultra-functional, ultra-clean and looks darn cool as well. This place, opened in 2016, certainly delivers on all points. With 112 rooms, it’s massive by local hostel standards and offers a high-quality lobby café, guest kitchens, laundry facilities, and a modern seminar room, built by popular demand. Staff organise movie nights in the downstairs rec hall. Most rooms are private with their own kitchenettes and bathrooms, but some share these amenities with a neighbour.QF‑3, Riia 26, tel. (+372) 740 51 00, www.hektorhostels.com. singles €23 - 38, doubles €38 - 54, triples €54 - 75, quads €68 87, apartments €60 - 75 Pets €12. Breakfast €5. Z­U­ L­6­W­K­H­D­F tartu.inyourpocket.com

Hotels

Hektor Design Hostels Riia 26, Tartu / www.hektorhostels.com / +372 7405 100 Looming Hostel This shiny hostel just a little outside of the centre is bright, clean and ecologically friendly - in fact over 95% of the hostel’s décor has been made from reused or recycled materials. There are loads of amenities including games, free WiFi, free parking, hammocks and more. In summer you can chill on their rooftop terrace.QF‑3, Kastani 38, tel. (+372) 56 99 43 98, www.loominghostel.ee. doubles €32 - 56, apart‑ ments €48 - 62, place in dorm €15 - 17, family room €48 88 Extra bed €12-14, breakfast €2. Pets €5. Z­L­6­W Hotel of Tartu Vocational Education Centre The newly refurbished ‘Hotel of Tartu Vocational Education Centre’ provides service with a smile and affordable prices to the weary and budget-conscious traveller. The hotel is actually a training facility for hospitality students of the Tartu Vocational Education Centre and thus should provide its guests with a pretty great experience given that the students need to perform well. Don’t worry though, they probably won’t be watching you sleep.QF‑4, Kopli 1C, tel. (+372) 736 18 50, www.hotell.khk.ee. singles €30 - 35, doubles €38 - 50, suites €84 Extra bed €13, pets €7. G­L­R­W­K­H­w Terviseks Backpackers B&B If cheap, communal living is your bag, then this fun and eclectic backpackers’ haven is certainly where you’ll want to lay your head, no matter what time of day or night. You facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

really can’t beat the location right on Town Hall Square and it certainly won’t take long to stumble to your bed from most of the local bars or parks. Oh, and did we mention that a light breakfast is included? Awesome!QC‑2, Raekoja plats 10, tel. (+372) 565 53 82. singles €22, dou‑ bles €40, place in dorm €15 - 17. J­W Torni Hostel It’s a good 20-minute hike to the centre from here, but these newly renovated rooms in the Estonian Universtity of Life Sciences’ dormitory have all the modern conveniences. Every two shares bathroom and kitchen. There are also laundry facilities and internet connections. Arrange your arrival ahead of time by e-mail or phone because reception is only open weekdays 09:00 - 16:00.QE‑2, F. R. Kreutzwaldi 52, tel. (+372) 731 32 62/(+372) 731 32 63, www.yhikas.emu. ee/hostel. singles €19, doubles €38. G­R­W Vaksali 4 Hostel This hostel is located in a beautifully renovated wooden house right next to the railway station. A little bit of a walk to the city centre, but its cosy atmosphere makes up for the distance and if you happen to come to Tartu by train it’s a perfect pick. Toilets and showers are shared and, although there is no kitchen proper, there are fridges and a microwave for preparing light bites.QA‑3, Vaksali 4, tel. (+372) 510 46 98/(+372) 744 16 10, www.hostel4.ee. sin‑ gles €30, doubles €40, triples €60 Extra bed €15, pets €10. Breakfast not included. Z­G­U­L­6­W 2019/2020

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Shopping & Directory

Aparaaditehas - a recommended destination for trendy shopping, eateries and entertainment (see pages 26 & 62).

Given its size, Tartu probably won’t be on your list as a premiere shopping destination. That being said, it is Estonia’s second largest city and therefore you’ll certainly be able to spend some euros here on speciality items, handicrafts, the usual brand names and items specific to Tartu’s artistic culture. Here you’ll find a great list of shops, boutiques and shopping malls where you can indulge your inner shopaholic.

Antiques Antiik Find porcelain, gold and silver, icons, and other beautiful antiques at Antiik.QB‑2, Ülikooli 11, tel. (+372) 744 23 02/(+372) 517 74 01, www.barokk.ee. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun. Antikvariaat Find old books, postcards, photos and more at Antikvariaat.QC‑3, Riia 7, tel. (+372) 55 67 52 31/(+372) 668 55 31, www.antikvariaat.eu. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. Inderlin Books, postcards, art, and antiques are what you’ll find at Inderlin.QB‑2, Küütri 16/Kompanii 4, tel. (+372) 58 03 67 52, www.inderlin.ee. Open 10:00-14:00;15:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Mon, Sun.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app 58 Tartu In Your Pocket

Books Apollo bookstore A huge selection of titles plus DVDs, toys and loads more.QC‑2, Riia 1 (Tartu Kaubamaja), tel. (+372) 633 60 00, www.apollo. ee. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. Also at: C-2/3, Riia 2 (Kvartal centre). Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Krisostomus Books from all over the world.QC‑2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372) 744 00 10, www.kriso.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sun, Sat. Rahva Raamat A large, central bookshop with a café attached.QC‑2, Turu 2 (Tasku Centre), tel. (+372) 626 65 92, www. rahvaraamat.ee. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-18:00.

Fashion The highest concentration of clothes shops are in malls like Tartu Kaubamaja, Tasku, Lõunakeskus and Kvartal (see Shopping centres). Beyond that, try these: Baltman One of Estonia’s home-grown, international fashion brands, Baltman specialises in men’s suits, jackets and trousers.QC‑2, Riia 1 (Tartu Kaubamaja), tel. (+372) 731 48 97, www.baltman.andmorefashion.com. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

Disainimaja Although not a typical fashion boutique, given the location and the fact that these Estonian top designers are selltartu.inyourpocket.com

Shopping & Directory ing their ‘wearable’ wares in a design incubator of sorts, this fashion outlet is certainly worth checking out.QC‑3, Kalevi 15, tel. (+372) 506 96 92, www.disainimaja.ee.

Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Mon, Sun.

what to buy in estonia Ceramics Souvenir shops do a good trade in ceramic figures, especially little ceramic buildings. Some are fairytale creations that have a hollow inside where you can put a candle.

Others are amazingly precise copies of specific buildings in Old Town.

LEVI Design Shop Top Estonian fashion design and accessories.QC‑2, Riia 1 (Tartu Kaubamaja), www.levi.design. Open 09:0021:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

Manna Couture Vintage clothing.QB‑1, Munga 10, tel. (+372) 741 10 84, www.mannacouture.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sun, Sat. Monton A popular Estonian brand providing cutting-edge clothing for both men and women.QC‑2, Riia 1 (Tartu Kau‑ bamaja), www.monton.andmorefashion.com. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

Sangar High-end Estonian brand, producing dress-shirts since 1956. Their trademark is producing made-to-measure shirts, where you can even choose the button colour.QG‑2, Sőpruse pst. 2, tel. (+372) 730 73 07, www.sangar.ee.

Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. Suva Estonian brand producing socks and stockings. Its trademark has become its ethnic-line, which features various Estonian national costume designs.QB‑2, Küüni 4, tel. (+372) 740 90 86, www.suva.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. Võru Varblane Vintage clothing.QC‑3, Võru 4/6, tel. (+372) 53 58 12 18.

Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-16:00; closed Sun.

shoe repair Kingaprof QC‑2, Riia 1 (Tartu Kaubamaja), tel. (+372) 55 65 57 75, www.kingaprof.ee. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

Chocolate Anything by famous local confectioner, Kalev. Assortments with pictures of Tallinn are a hit. One of the big favorites to buy is their Maiasmokk chocolate candy box.

Knits

Linen

Sweaters of all varieties, knit caps, gloves and mittens are traditional gifts that are sold just about everywhere in Old Town. The most interesting place to shop for knitwear is definitely the sweater market on Müürivahe street near Viru Gates (C-3).

The traditional fabric from centuries gone by is still a popular handicraft items among the locals. Table coverings are the most obvious use, but a linen shirt can also make a stylish gift for your favourite knight.

Marzipan Originally used for its medicinal properties, the sweet almond-flavoured confection has been produced and sold in Tallinn for at least 500 years and just might have become as popular as Lübeck Marzipan had it not been for those pesky Soviets.

Smithery wares Blacksmiths have been whacking hot iron with hammers for many centuries in Tallinn. You can find items ranging from ashtrays to curtain rods for sale at any given souvenir shop. After all nothing says “I love you” better than an iron-forged fireplace poker.

Wood Toys, beer mugs, kitchen utensils and anything else that can be carved out of juniper are popular, and give souvenir shops their distinctive fragrance.

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Shopping & Directory Handicrafts/Souvenirs Cathedral Shop This museum shop offers University of Tartu-themed trinkets, intellectually-inspired books and souvenirs, and educational toys for the kiddies.QB‑2, Lossi 25, tel. (+372) 737 56 74, www.muuseum.ut.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. From October through April open 11:00 17:00, closed Mon, Tue. Kiiks ja Knihv Funky gifts for all ages and genders.QB‑2, Rüütli 7, tel. (+372) 56 69 45 38, www.kiiksjaknihv.ee. Open 11:3019:30; Sat 11:30-18:00; closed Sun. Beautiful Estonian handicrafts at Varalaegas.

grocers & Alcohol A. Le Coq gift shop Love A. Le Coq? Why not take a few souvenirs home, like beer glasses or t-shirts? They also sell a wide range of A. Le Coq products, both alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages. QF‑2, Laulupeo pst. 15, www.alecoq.ee/ en/beer-museum/gift-shop. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-16:30; closed Mon, Sun. Coop Maksimarket Centrally located, this large supermarket has everything you need, from groceries to cosmetics to homewares.QC‑2/3, Riia 2 (Kvartal), tel. (+372) 741 20 40, www.coop.ee. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-20:00.

Gambrinus Interesting and exotic beers.QB‑1, Rüütli 18, tel. (+372) 55 51 70 45. Open 14:00-22:00.

Prisma Located a short distance from the town centre, this Finnish supermarket chain a good selection of cosmetics and homewares, in addition to regular groceries.QG‑3, Sõbra 56, tel. (+372) 689 93 00, www. prismamarket.ee. Open 24hrs.

Rimi Centrally located, Rimi covers all your grocery needs.

QC‑2, Turu 2 (Tasku Centre), tel. (+372) 55 51 23 87, www.rimi.ee. Open 08:00-23:00. Also at: C-2, Küüni 7, tel. 731 77 04. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

Tartu Kaubamaja Located on the main floor of Tartu’s Kaubamaja, this grocery is considered slightly more upscale, and is a good place to come for food souvenirs.QC‑3, Riia 1, tel. (+372) 731 51 00, www.kaubamaja.ee. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

60 Tartu In Your Pocket

Milgren Studio Shop Delicate and intriguing porcelain items from which you may sip your tea.QB‑1, Jakobi 36, tel. (+372) 55 54 06 14, www.milgren.ee. Open 12:00-18:00; Sat 12:00-16:00; closed Mon, Sun. Rae Käsitöö A huge variety of quality souvenirs and crafts, right on Old Town’s main square.QB‑2, Küüni 2 (entrance from Raekoja plats), tel. (+372) 742 34 24. Open 09:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

Saare Hobu Käsitööpood In addition to its signature lambskin items, this Saaremaa-based outfit sells knits, ceramics and trinkets made from carved wood, metal and glass.QB‑2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 782 81 78, www.kris.ee. Open 09:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-18:00.

Textile Studio Shop Textile design, art, ceramics and accessories.QB‑1, Lutsu 5, tel. (+372) 55 52 22 62. Open 10:00-16:00; closed Mon, Thu, Sat, Sun. Varalaegas Estonian gifts, including those you might not find anywhere else.QB‑2, Gildi 2, tel. (+372) 744 18 88. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun.

Markets Taaskasutuskeskus The Tartu Recycling Centre organises this flea market which is open for all who wish to buy or sell used or old things. All sorts of previously loved items can be found here, such as clothing, shoes, books, toys, furniture etc. Who knows what sort of cool stuff you might find - after all, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. There’s also an outdoor version open every Saturday from 09:00 - 15:00, all year long. This of course depends on the availability of sellers who want to brave the cold, snow, rain, hail or whatever else Mother Nature has to throw at them.QE‑3, Lehola 7, tel. (+372) 748 70 03/(+372) 501 80 15, www.taaskasutuskeskus.ee.

Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. tartu.inyourpocket.com

Shopping & Directory Tartu Market hall Sure, you can visit the museums, you can explore the cafés, but if you really want to understand life in Tartu, you have to go where the people shop: Tartu Market Hall. Housed in a square, imposing, riverside building that dates to 1938, Tartu Turg, as it’s called in Estonian, is filled with vendors selling fresh meat, excellent sauerkraut and pickles, as well as fresh local fish from the Emajõgi River, Lake Peipsi and Lake Võrtsjärv. You’ll also find craft beer retailers in the basement. Its outdoor extension Tartu Farmers Market is just as lively - find it in Soola 10, across Riia street between the bus station and the Sadamateater.QC‑2, Vabaduse pst. 1, tel. (+372) 738 71 01, www.tartuturg.ee. Tartu Market Hall open 07:30 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Outdoor Farmers Market open from May through September 07:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 16:00.

specialty food stores Biomarket The largest chain of organic products and natural food stores in Estonia.QC‑2, Küüni 7, tel. (+372) 735 26 50, www.biomarket.ee. Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:0016:00; Sat 10:00-18:00.

Juustukuningad Importers of a huge number of speciality cheeses from Holland - with such a variety, they are indeed the ‘Cheese Kings’.QC‑2, Riia 1 (Tartu Kaubamaja), tel. (+372) 772 65 77, www.juustukuningad.ee. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

Kalev Chocolate Shop Home of Estonia’s well known chocolates and sweets, this shop also serves up some lovely coffees.QC‑2, Küüni 4 (entrance from Poe), tel. (+372) 54 54 77 74, www.kalev.eu. Open 09:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; Sat 10:00-18:00.

Naat Specializing in producing raw snacks and chocolates as well as baking lactose and gluten-free cakes and breads, Naat also offers a variety of organic raw drinks and snacks that you can enjoy in their cosy little shop or on the green summer terrace during warmer months.

Also a good place for picking up a tasty souvenir.QB‑2, Rüütli 4, tel. +372 523 95 17, www. naat.ee.

Open 12:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. facebook.com/TartuInYourPocket

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Shopping & Directory Medical & Dental services Cardens Dental care. They also offer 24-hour emergency services.

QB‑1, Jaani 20, tel. (+372) 58 44 03 30 (24hrs)/(+372) 742 37 29, www.cardens.ee. Open 09:00-19:00; closed Sun, Sat. Tartu University Hospital The city’s main hospital. Emergency services open 24h.

QF‑3, L. Puusepa 8, tel. (+372) 731 91 00/(+372) 731 81 11, www.kliinikum.ee.

Tartu University Hospital’s Clinic of Dentistry QB‑2, Raekoja plats 6, tel. (+372) 731 91 00/(+372) 731 98 89, www.kliinikum.ee/stomatoloogia/. Open 07:3020:00; closed Sat, Sun.

Opticians Eesti Optik QB‑2, Rüütli 10, tel. (+372) 742 36 59, www.optika.ee.

Open 09:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. Tallinna Optika QB‑2, Rüütli 1/Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 740 09 00, www.opti.ee. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun.

Pharmacies Euroapteek QC‑2, Küüni 5b, tel. (+372) 730 08 44, www.euroapteek. ee. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. Raekoja Apteek QB‑2, Raekoja plats 1A, tel. (+372) 742 35 60, www. apotheka.ee. Open 24hrs.

Shopping centres Aparaaditehas Shopping Complex This funky modern complex just a short hike up Riia is known for its cultural happenings and trendy eateries but it’s also home to a variety of handicraft stores, fashion shops and gourmet outlets. Please check their website for detailed information and specific opening hours.QF‑3, Kastani 42, www.aparaaditehas.ee.

Eeden Located somewhat close to the centre, this newly renovated shopping complex features several large outlet stores in addition to the regular shops and services.

There is also plenty to keep the whole family entertained, including a brand new Apollo cinema and O’Leary’s entertainment complex with a kids play area.QG‑3, Kalda tee 1c, tel. (+372) 740 24 30, www.eeden.ee. Open 10:00-21:00.

62 Tartu In Your Pocket

Kaubamaja This centrally located, retail mecca houses the local branch of Estonia’s largest department store, Kaubamaja. It also functions as a full-fledged shopping mall, offering everything from food to fashion. It’s the best destination for finding upscale and known fashion brands, some of which are exclusively sold here, as well as a good selection of authentic Estonian designs.QC‑2, Riia 1, tel. (+372) 731 48 00, www.tartukaubamaja.ee. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. Food department open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20.00.

Kesklinna Keskus The small shopping centre has surprisingly crammed a lot inside. From a mini grocery store to pharmacy, and a billiards hall to a fitness centre, you’re sure to find something useful inside.QC‑2, Küüni 7, tel. (+372) 731 22 11, www. kesklinna.ee. Open 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; Sat 10:00-18:00.

Kvartal The newest and flashiest of the malls occupying Tartu’s most retail-packed street corner (along with Kaubamaja and the Tasku Centre), Kvartal really does feel like a neighbourhood in itself. There are three floors of shopping and dining options to keep your bags heavy and your belly full, and a spa where you can recuperate afterwards.QC‑2/3, Riia 2, tel. (+372) 741 20 40, www.kvartal.com.ee. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

Lõunakeskus Lõunakeskus is the largest shopping and entertainment complex in South-Estonia, offering the greatest variety of goods and services in the region. Lõunakeskus accommodates an indoor ice-skating rink, an adventure park, the Apollo cinema, a golf studio, a MyFitness sports club as well as a variety of restaurants and cafés. Getting there is simple via the free bus service which operates from in front of the Kaubamaja department store, on the Riia mnt. side. Buses leave every 30 to 60 minutes from 11:00 to 21:44.QE‑4, Ringtee 75, tel. (+372) 731 55 00, www.astri.ee/lounakeskus.

Open 10:00-21:00.

Tasku Centre Tasku is a big, trendy shopping, eating and entertainment complex in the centre of Tartu. You’ll find a plethora of high-end retail shops and dining experiences along with a large cinema and a supermarket for stocking up on all your party supplies.QC‑2, Turu 2, tel. (+372) 731 22 11, www. tasku.ee. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Food de‑ partment open 08:00 - 23:00.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app tartu.inyourpocket.com

Street register Aadliku G1 Aardla E4,F4,G4 Aardlavälja F4 Aasa F1 Adra F1 Aianduse F4 Aida D3,G3 Akadeemia B3,F3 Alasi F5 Aleksandri C3,G3 Alevi F3,G4 Allika F2 Andruse E5 Aniisi F1 Anne kanal G3 Anne G2,H3 ANNELINN H3 Annemõisa H3 Arbi E4 Arhitekti E3 Aroonia E3 Aru F1 ARUKÜLA F1 Aruküla tee F1 Astelpaju F1 Astri E3 Astelpaju F1 K.E.v.Baeri A2,F2 Betooni E2 Eha F3,G3 Ehitaja E3,E4 Elva E4,F3 Emajõe F2 Emajõgi C2,F1,F2,G3,H4 Era F3 Filosoofi F3 Fortuuna D2,G2 Gildi B2,F2 A.Haava A3,F2 Haki E4 Haraka E4 Haru E5 Heina G2 Heki F5 K.A.Hermanni A2,F2 Herne B1,F2 Hiie E2 Hommiku E3 J.Hurda A1,F2 IHASTE H4 Ihaste põik H3 Ihaste tee H3,H4 Ilmatari E2 Ilmatsalu E3 Jaagu E5 Jaama D1,G2,H2 JAAMAMÕISA H2 Jaamamõisa G2 Jaani B1,F2 Jakobi A1,B2,F2 C.R.Jakobsoni E2 Jalaka F4 Jalakakuru F4 J.V.Jannseni E2 Jõe G3 Jänese G2 Kaare F4 Kabeli F4 Kadaka H3 Kalda tee H3 Kalevi C3,F3,G3,G4 Kalmistu F1 Kaluri C2 Kalvi tee G1 Kanarbiku F1,F5 Kanarbiku p F5 Kanepi F1 Kannikese E3 Karikakra E3 KARLOVA G3 Kartuli F2 Kasarmu G2 Kase F3 Kase p F3

Kassitoome org A2 Kastani A2,F3 Kauna F2 Kaunase pst H3 Kaupmehe G1 Kesa F5 Kesa p F5 Kesk kaar F4 Kesk F3 Kibuvitsa E3 Kiire E5,E4 Killustiku G1 Kingu G2 Kirde F4 Kirsi F4 Kitsas B3,F3 Kivi C1,D1,G2 Kloostri B1,F2 Koidu F3 L.Koidula E2 Kolde F5 Kompanii B1,F2 Kooli A2,A3,F3 Kopli F5 Kotka F4 Kraavi F4 Kreegi E4 Kressi E3 Fr.R.Kreutzwaldi A1,E1 Kristalli E4 Kroonuaia B1,F2 Kruusa F1 Kruusakuru F1 Kruusamäe F1 Kruusavälja F1 Kuldnoka F4 Kullerkupu E3 Kummeli F1 Kungla F3,F4 Kunimäe tee E5 J.Kuperjanovi A3 Kure F4 Kuslapuu F5 Kuslapuu p F5 Kuu F3,G3 Kvartsi E5 KVISSENTALI E1 Kvissentali p F1 Kvissentali tee E1 Kõrvitsa F2 Käo F4 Käo p F4 Künni F1 Küüni C2,F2 Küütri B2,F2 Laane F1 Lai B1,B2,F2 Lammi H3 Lao C3,G3 Laulupeo pst E2 Lavendli F1 Leegi F5 Leesika F1 Leete G2 Leevikese E4,F4 Lehola E3 Lembitu F3 Lemmatsi E4 Lepiku A1,F2 Liiva F2 Liivamäe G1 J.Liivi A2,F3 Lille C3,F3 Lina G3 Linda G3 Linnu E4 Loode F3 Lootuse F3 Lossi B2,F2 Lubja F2 Luha H3 Luige F4 N.Lunini E3 Lutsu B2,F2

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Lõhmuse H2 Lõo F4 Lõuna E3 Lääne G2 Lüübeki B1 MAARJAMÕISA E3 Maarjaturg F1,F2 Maasika F4 Magasini B1 Magistri C2 Maisi E3 Malmi G3 Marja F2 Marta G3 Melissi F1 Meloni F2 Mesika F4 Mesiheina E5 Metalli F4 Mooni E3 Munga B2 Muraka F4 Mureli E4 Muru F1 Muuluka E4 Mõisa-allee F1 Mõisajärve F1 Mõisapargi F1 Mõisapuiestee F1, G1 Mõisatalli F1 Mõisatamme G1 Mõisatorni F1 Mõisavahe H3 Mõisavälja F1 Mõisavärava G1 Mäe C1,F2,G2 Männi G2 Narva mnt C1,F2,G2 Nelgi E3 Nigula F4 Niidu F1 Nisu E3 Nooruse E3,E4 Nurme F1 Nõlvaku H2 Nõmme F1 Nõva G3 Näituse A2,E3,F3 Oa F2 Orava G2 Oru A2,F2 Paju G2 Palderjani E3 Palsami E3 Papli G2 Pargi G3 Peedu E4 Peetri F2 Peetriturg G2 Pepleri B3,F3 Pesapaiga E5 Pihlaka F4 Piima F4 Piiri F2 Pikk C1,D1,D2,G2 Piparmündi E3,F1 Pirni E4 Pirni põik F5 Ploomi F4 Poe C2,F2 Pohla F4 Puhkekodu E4 Puidu E2 Puiestee D1,F1,G2 Punga C1,G2 Purde G4 L.Puusepa E3 Põhja puiestee H2 Põik C2,G2 Põldmarja E4 Põllu F1 Päeva F3 Päikese F5 Pääsukese F4

Raadi järv G1 RAADI - KRUUSAMÄE F1 RAADI LENNUVÄLI H1 RAADIMÕISA F1 Raadimõisa G1 Raatuse D1,G2 Raekoja plats B2,F2 Rahu F4 Raja E4 Ranna tee F2 Raua G3,G4 Raudtee E4,E5,F3,F4 Ravila E2,E3 Rebase G3 Rehepapi tee F5 Riia B3,C3,E3,E4,F3 Ringtee E3,E4,G5 Risti F2 Ristiku F4 Rohu F1 Roopa E5 Roosi C1,G2 ROPKA F4 Ropka F4 Ropkamõisa G4 Ropka tee G4 ROPKA TÖÖSTUSRAJAOON G5 Rukki E3 Rõõmu tee H2 Räni F4 Räni p F4 Ränikivi F4 RÄNILINN E4 Rästa F4 Räägu E4 Rüütli B1,F2 Saare G2 Sadama D3,G3 Saekoja F3,G4 Saialille E3 Sakala E3 Salme G3 Sanatooriumi E4 Sangla E3 Sassi G3 Sauna F2 Savi E4 Selleri F2 Sepa F4,G4 Sepakuru F5 Sepavälja F5 Sepikoja F5 Side F4 Sihi E4 Siili G4 Sinepi F1 Sinika F4 Sireli F4 Soinaste E5,F4 Soola C3,D2,G3 Staadioni F2 W.Struve B3,F3 SUPILINN F2 Surnuaia F1 Suur kaar F4 Sõbra F3,G3 Sõpruse pst G3 Säde E3 Taara pst A2,E2,F2 Tallinna mnt E1 Tamme F3 Tamme p E4 Tamme pst E4,F3,F4 Tammekuru F4 Tammelehe E4 TAMMELINN E4 Tammeoksa E4 Tammetõru E5 Tammeõie E4 A.H.Tammsaare E2 Tasuja E3 Tedre F4 Teelehe E3

Teguri F4,G4 Tehase F4,G4 Tehnika G4 Tervise E4 Tervishoiu E3 Tihase E4 Tiigi B3,F3 Timuti F5 Tolga E5 L.Tolstoi G3 Tooma E5 Toomemägi A2,F2 Toominga F4 Fr.Tuglase E2 Tulbi E3 Tulika E3 Tungla E2 Turu C2,G3,G4 Tuule E5,G2 Tuvi E4 J.Tõnissoni A3,F3 Tõrviku E2 Tähe C3,F3,G3,G4 TÄHTVERE E2,F2 Tähtvere A1,E1,F2 Ujula F1,F2 Urva C1,F2 Uueturu C2 Uus D1,G2 Vaba F3,G3 Vabaduse pst B1,F2 Vabriku F3 Vahe E4 Vahi F1,G1 Vahi p G1 Vahtra G2 Vaikne F1 Vainu F1 VAKSALI E3 Vaksali A3,E2 Vallikraavi B2,B3,F3 Vambola F3 Vanemuise B3,F3 Vao F1 Vapramäe E3 Varblase E4 VARIKU F5 Variku F4 Varju E3 Vasara F4,G4,G5 Vasara p F4 Vase G4 VEERIKU E3 Veeriku E3 Vene F2 Veski A2,F2,F3 Viirpuu F1 Vikerkaare A1,E2,F2 Vilja F1 Viljandi mnt E3 Vitamiini E3 Voolu F5 Võru C3,F3,F4,F5 Võruvälja F4 Väike kaar E3,F3,F4 Väike-Sepa F4 Väike-Turu D2,G3 Väike-Tähe F3 Välja F1,F5 Välu F4 Västriku F4 Õhtu E3 Õie E3 Õnne F3,G3 Õpetaja B3,F3 Õuna E4 Ööbiku F4 Ülase E3 ÜLEJÕE G2 Ülenurme F4,F5 ÜLEVÄLJA F5 Ülevälja F5 Ülikooli B2,C2,F2 Ümera E3

2019/2020

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Located at the very heart of Tartu, TASKU accommodates more than 50 shops and a great selection of fashion brands! Our cafĂŠs and restaurants are perfect for a cosy coffee break and enable you to enjoy tastes from all over the world.

We are open on Mon-Sat 10-21, Sun 10-18 The Rimi food store is open daily 8-23

www.tasku.ee

tasku.moetempel

taskukeskus

The viewing platform, located on the roof of PLASKU, is open from Friday to Sunday on every full hour at 12-18 p.m. The ticket price is â‚Ź 2 (free of charge for children under the age of 7). Tickets are available for purchasing from the TASKU Information Desk.

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ONLY THE BEST CHOICES 10% discount in Kaubamaja department store with this coupon!

Please note, that this coupon is only valid in the Kaubamaja department store.

This includes Women’s Fashion, Kidswear and Toys, Men’s Fashion, Women’s Shoe Department and the Home Department. In the Beauty Department the discount applies to jewels, watches and fashion jewellery. This discount incorporates the Partner Card and Club One Card discounts.

Mon–Sat 9–21 Sun 10–19 Riia St 1, Tartu Valid until 31.12.2019