Vienna In Your Pocket

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Vienna March – April 2020

inyourpocket.com N°57 - €1.75

21.02.–31.08.2020

HUNDERTWASSER – SCHIELE

IMAGINE TOMORROW

www.leopoldmuseum.org

Friedensreich Hundertwasser, 224 Le grand chemin (Detail), 1955, Belvedere, Wien, Foto: Belvedere, Wien/Johannes Stoll, © 2020 Namida AG, Glarus, Schweiz

Contents

Vienna

Spring is here, and you better believe the Volksgarten is about to ascend to a new level of beauty

History

5

Š Pani Garmyder

Nightlife

32

Bars, clubs and other dark rooms

Arriving in Vienna

6

Getting Around

7

Vienna Districts

8

Jewish Vienna

44

Basics

9

Shopping

46

Easter in Vienna

10

Sightseeing

36

From imperial to contemporary

Whatever you want

Events 11

Featured: Berlin

Concerts, exhibitions and more

The other cool German-speaking capital

City of Classical Music

18 20

Coffee, cake & culture

Restaurants From Wiener Schnitzel to BBQ

facebook.com/InYourPocket

50

From park bench to Park Grand

Vienna sounds good

Coffeehouses

Hotels

49

Directory

53

Maps & Index 22

Street register Centre map Venue index

54 55-57 58 March – April 2020

3

Foreword Spring is here, finally spring is here, we can put the big coat back in the wardrobe and start showing off the muscles we have gained over the winter period, or at least we would if we had committed to that New Year’s Resolution of consistent visits to the gym. Oh well, not to worry, we’re only going to eat and drink our bodyweight once the Easter markets arrive. What better way to celebrate the death and resurrection of our lord and saviour?

These are strange times in the travel world. The cancellation of ITB Berlin has set the industry on edge, as Europe falls over itself in trying to show who is the most panicked about COVID-19, better known as the coronavirus. It remains to be seen how the condition further impacts the tourist season, but that is out of our control. What is in our control? Bringing you all you need to know to make the most of a trip to Vienna, that’s what.

We’ve already hinted at the Easter celebrations, and what celebrations they are. Is this Vienna at its most Viennese?

That’s for you to decide, but it is difficult to look past the mass of food, joy and classical music during this time. There is irony there of course, as most of the city’s residents head for quieter climes to make the most of the holidays, but it all makes for a fascinating and thrilling time to be in this famous city.

Throw in the usual sights, sounds, tastes, smells and the rest, and you’ve got another glorious issue of Vienna In Your Pocket. We’ll be back in May with the big summer preview so get in touch however you like, via old fashioned email, social media or maybe even via morse code, depending on how this whole virus thing plays out. See you in the summer!

WRITER & EDITOR John Bills is an independent author, travel writer, and amateur darts player from Wales. He has been working for In Your Pocket for half a decade, and is the author of four decidedly nonacademic travel and history books that are available at his little bookshop (www.poshlostbooks.com).

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher In Your Pocket GmbH Axel-Springer-Straße 39, 10969 Berlin Vienna office Tel: +43 664 131 85 97 vienna@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Editor John William Bills Contributors Paul Nogid, Dune Johnson, Gretl Satorius Layout Tomáš Haman; Photos Evi Bauer, Reinhard Böhm Cover © cge2010; Maps IYP GmbH Sales & Circulation General Manager Stephan Krämer Production Manager Philippe Krüger Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt Advertising Manager Mario Böhm Copyright notice Text and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright In Your Pocket GmbH 2010-2019. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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inyourpocket.com 4 Vienna In Your Pocket

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History What started as a tiny village along the Wien river has blossomed into one of the world’s great cities, the 10th largest in the European Union and one of the most important in modern history. This is Vienna.

ANTIQUITY Vienna was founded around 500 years before the arrival of JC himself, and by 15BC it had developed into a Roman frontier city called Vindobona. It had the thankless task of protecting the Roman Empire from marauding German tribes. It did a pretty good job, all things considering.

HABSBURGS AND OTTOMANS (BUT MOSTLY HABSBURGS) The growing city became the residence of the Habsburg Dynasty in 1440, eventually graduating to the vaulted position of capital of the Holy Roman Empire. This extra importance did not go ignored, and the Ottoman Empire came knocking on the door in the 16th and 17th centuries, with the city avoiding destruction by the skin of its teeth during the 1529 Siege of Vienna — you know lucky is on your side when it takes winter and the plague to save the day. Vienna took note and expanded its fortifications, allowing the city to survive for two months during the 1683 Battle of Vienna and give ample time for Polish King Jan Sobieski to ride in and save the day. The Ottomans were gone for good.

With the fear of Ottoman invasion gone, baroque became the name of the game during the 18th century. Much of the city’s magnificent architecture came into being during this glorious time, with summer palaces sprouting up all over the place. Vienna became the capital of the massive Austrian Empire in 1804, which became the AustroHungarian dual monarchy in 1867. Already an important cultural centre, Vienna flourished artistically as the empire struggled politically, and classical music in particular entered a genuine golden period. Emperor Franz Josef I transformed the city, and today’s Vienna began to come into focus.

20TH CENTURY Vienna’s non-stop expansion continued into the 20th century, when industrialisation and immigration saw it become the sixth largest city in the world by 1910.

World War I put an end to the Habsburg Empire and the Republic of Deutsch-Österreich was created in 1918, with fashionable socialism making its presence felt here too.

‘Red Vienna’ was brief but progressive, and would have felt a lifetime away when Adolf Hitler (himself an Austrian) marched into town in 1938 when the ‘Anschulss’ (joining together of Germany and Austria took place. Vienna’s large Jewish population suffered greatly during World War II and was utterly decimated by the Holocaust. facebook.com/InYourPocket

A gorgeous view of the stunning Belvedere Palace

© Nattee Chalermtiragool

The city was badly damaged during the Soviet advances of 1944 and ’45, but was largely reconstructed in the decades that followed the war, when Vienna was divided into sectors ruled by France, UK, USA and the Soviet Union.

The occupation lasted just a decade. The city centre was proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, some 46 years after full independence returned to Austria. The capital has gone from strength to strength in the decades since, becoming the host city of a number of influential international organisations such as the International Atomic Energy Agency. Vienna’s history is a thrill-a-minute ride through the evolution of European society, and its future promises to be just as exciting.

FROM THE MAYOR Vienna is a city of many opportunities. There are a multitude of qualities that make staying or living here very pleasant for visitors and citizens alike: a flourishing economy, a rich cultural scene, social stability, very good healthcare, a well-developed public transport network, fasci© PID, Jobst nating old and new architecture, many parks and gardens as well as the Vienna Woods and last but not least – the excellent Viennese cuisine.

So it may not come as a surprise that Vienna has been named the most liveable city worldwide for the ninth year in a row in the 2018 Mercer quality of living survey. “The Economist” also ranked Vienna in first place worldwide in terms of quality of life in 2018. The many fine qualities of our city also contribute to the fact that many renowned international organisations such as the United Nations, OPEC and IAEA have chosen Vienna as location for their headquarters.

As Mayor I am particularly pleased that you have chosen Vienna as destination for a city trip. I hope you will have a wonderful time here and enjoy the many culinary delights and cultural attractions our city has to offer. Welcome to Vienna!

Michael Ludwig March – April 2020

5

Arriving in Vienna CITY AIRPORT TRAIN

Taking a taxi to the centre takes about 15 minutes. If you just hop into a waiting taxi outside, the ride will cost about €45, including the fee for returning to the airport empty; it costs €33 if you mention to the driver or dispatcher that you’d like the set price (Pauschaltariff).

BY TRAIN Vienna’s new Wien Hauptbahnhof (central station) is a short distance from the city centre; hop on tram D to reach the Ring. There are plenty of luggage lockers and ATMs for fresh arrivals, and there’s a helpful tourist information office.

© CAT Hammerschmid

The City Airport Train connects the city centre (U-Bahn Landstrasse/S-Bahn Wien Mitte) to Vienna International Airport. Trains depart every half hour at :09 and :39 minutes past the hour from airport station and :07 and :37 from Wien Mitte. The ride takes 16 minutes and prices start at €11 for a single trip and €19 for a return trip (€1 discount with the Vienna Card); book online for the best rates. The City Air Terminal in the city centre offers travellers the services of an international airport terminal: you can get your boarding pass and check in your baggage from 24 hours until 75 minutes before take-off. All trains offer free wifi.QMLandstraße/Wien Mitte, www.cityairporttrain.com, tel. +43 1 252 50.

BY BUS All international buses arrive at the Vienna International Busterminal (VIB), which has ATMs and luggage lockers.

Right across the street is the Erdberg U-Bahn station, from where it’s a 10 minute ride to the city centre.

BY CAR Major highways connect Vienna to Munich (4 hours) Budapest (3hrs), north and south. When parking in Vienna, pay attention to the short-term parking zones in the inner districts of the city; use the well-signposted Park & Ride facilities (€3 per day) in the outer districts and take an U-Bahn or tram into town.

BY FERRY

BY PLANE Vienna’s international airport is located in Schwechat, 18km southeast of the city centre. After passing customs (for arrivals from outside the Schengen zone) and collecting your baggage, ATMs, banks and tourist information can be found in the arrivals hall.

To get to town, there’s a choice of rail or road. The City Airport Train (CAT, +43 1 252 50, www.cityairporttrain. com) departs every half hour between 06:09 and 23:39, arriving at U-Bahn station Wien Mitte. The ride takes 16 minutes and costs from €11 for a single trip, and from €19 for a return trip (book online for the best price; reduced rate with the Vienna Card). You can also take a regular S-Bahn train, departing from the airport to Wien Mitte station approximately every 30 minutes between 04:34 and 00:18; tickets cost €4 and the ride takes about 25 minutes.

Vienna Airport Lines buses (tel. +43 1 700 73 23 00, www.viennaairportlines.at) depart every 30 minutes between 05:00 to 23:00, stopping off at U-Bahn Schwedenplatz, the train stations Wien Meidling and Wien Westbahnhof and the Vienna International Center (VIC), taking about 30 minutes. A single ride costs €8, a return trip €13, and tickets can be bought from the driver.

6 Vienna In Your Pocket

The Danube river is increasingly used for ferry routes to Hungary, Slovakia and Germany. Ferries arrive at Anlegestelle Reichsbrücke near U-Bahn station Vorgartenstrasse. Twin City Liner boats dock at Marienbrücke bridge near the Schwedenplatz U-Bahn station.

AIRPORT Vienna International Airport (Flughafen Wien, airport code VIE, tel. +43 1 700 72 22 33, www.viennaairport.com) is located 18 kilometres southeast of central Vienna. It is often referred to as Schwechat, after the nearby town. Since the fall of the Iron Curtain and EU enlargement in 2004 the airport has developed into a hub for flights to Eastern Europe and the Middle East, with over 30% of the 20 million passengers per year in transit.

The airport is served by the City Airport Train (CAT) from the city centre between 05:36 and 23:06, by S-Bahn trains (between 04:34 and 23:47) from Wien-Mitte station and by buses from the VIB bus terminal. Passengers of Austrian Airlines and most other Star Alliance airlines using the City Airport Train can check in their luggage at Wien-Mitte station.

AIR BERLINQtel. +43 1 70 12 60, www.airberlin.com.

AIR FRANCEQtel. +43 1 502 22 24 00, www.airfrance.com. vienna.inyourpocket.com

Getting around AUSTRIAN AIRLINESQtel. +43 5 17 66 10 00, www.austrian.com.

most visitors won’t need them though the handy night buses replace the U-Bahn from 00:45 to 05:00 on weekdays.

BRITISH AIRWAYSQtel. +43 1 79 56 75 67, www.ba.com.

Tickets cost €2,40 for a single ride, though it’s well worth getting a day ticket if you’re planning on using public transport more than a few times. A 24-hour ticket costs €8, a 48-hour ticket €14,10 and a 72-hour ticket €17,10. Tickets must be validated before getting on board. Tickets can be purchased from multilingual machines at every U-Bahn station and on buses and trams, though single tickets bought on board cost €2,60 and only coins are accepted. You can also visit the ticket sales offices of Wiener Linien at the Stephansplatz, Karlsplatz, Westbahnhof and Wien Mitte U-Bahn stations.

The 72 hour ticket can also be purchased at the Tourist Information Office. Children up to six years old always travel free; children up to 15 ride free on Sundays, holidays and during Vienna’s school holidays (photo ID required). The Vienna Card offers 24, 48 and 72 hours of travel on public transport plus more than 210 discounts to museums, concerts, cafés, and more. It can be bought at the Tourist Information Offices or use the discount code POCKET1 for 10% off when purchasing online or through the app or at www.viennacitycard.at.

LUFTHANSAQtel. +43 8 10 10 25 80 80, www.lufthansa.com.

SWISSQtel. +43 8 10 81 08 40, www.swiss.com.

CAR RENTAL The international car rental companies have offices at the airport as well as on the Ringstrasse near the main hotels.

Rentals start from €80 per day.

AVISQtel. +43 800 08 00 87 57, www.avis.at.

EUROPCAR QB-3, Schubertring 9, tel. +43 866 16 11/+43 866 16 10, wien1@europcar.at, www.europcar.at. Open 07:30 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

DRIVING & PARKING Parking in central Vienna is expensive; the 20 public garages in the centre charge up to €5 per hour. Street parking tickets (€1 per 30 minutes) can be purchased from news agents (Trafiken), the offices of Wiener Linien, many petrol stations, major train stations and by SMS on the A1 mobile network. Day visitors to Vienna are better off using a Park & Ride facility in the outskirts (€3 per day) and taking the tram or U-Bahn to the city centre.

If you plan to drive on Austria’s highways (all A and S roads) you’ll need a vignette sticker on your windscreen costing €7.90 for 10 days, which can be purchased at petrol stations.

TAXIS

LONG-DISTANCE BUSES

TAXI 31300Qtel. +43 1 313 00, www.taxi31300.at.

The Vienna International Busterminal (VIB, open 06:0021:00) is Vienna’s main bus terminal. All major international bus lines are operated by Eurolines.

TAXI 40100Qtel. +43 1 401 00, www.taxi40100.at.

EUROLINES QErdbergstrassse 200a (VIB), MErdberg, tel. +43 1 798 29 00, www.eurolines.at. Open 06:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 06:30 - 11:30, 16:30-20:30.

TRAINS

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Vienna’s extensive public transportation system, run by Wiener Linien (Vienna Transport Authority), is an easy and inexpensive way to get around town. The U-Bahn (metro) runs daily from 05:00 to 00:30, and non-stop on Fridays and Saturdays and before public holidays. Suburban S-Bahn trains radiate outwards from the city to the surrounding districts and towns. Trams are the best way to get around the inner city sights, running every 5-15 minutes between 05:00 and 00:30. Buses mostly serve Vienna’s suburbs and facebook.com/InYourPocket

Taxis are a safe and fast way to get around Vienna. After the start-up fee of €2,50, fares are about €1 per kilometre with €0,40 for waiting. At night between 23:00 and 06:00, start-up is €2,60 and rates are around €1,30 per kilometre.

Taxis can be hailed on the street, ordered in advance (€2,50 extra) or taken from a taxi station in the city centre (€1,25 extra). At night it’s best to call for a cab. When taking a taxi to the airport, ask for the Pauschaltariff rate of €33 to avoid paying €12 on top of the metre fare for the return trip.

TAXI 60160Qtel. +43 1 601 60, www.taxi60160.at.

The new Wien Hauptbahnhof (central station) opened in December 2014 and is now almost operating at full capacity. Check your timetable carefully to check where to embark. Among many new connections are the ICE high speed trains from Linz via Vienna’s new Hauptbahnhof station to Vienna airport, every two hours or so; these can also be used to get to and from the airport in under 20 minutes. Train tickets can be bought at all stations, but are best booked in advance on the bilingual ÖBB website, where significant reductions are available if you book well in advance. ÖBB (AUSTRIAN RAILWAYS) Qtel. +43 5 17 17, www.oebb.at.

March – April 2020

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Vienna Districts 4, 5, 6. NASCHMARKT This is currently Vienna’s most vibrant area with chic cafes and people strolling past trendy stores and art galleries. You would not want to miss out on a visit to Vienna’s central Naschmarkt, selling all sorts of food and with amazing restaurants and cosy cafés where many tourists and locals enjoy a break. The Freihausviertel south of Naschmarkt in the 4th district is the upcoming chic shopping mile. The 6th district, north of Naschmarkt, is known for its many gay bars.

Just one of the many perfect panoramas you’ll find across Vienna

© Sergey Novikov, Shutterstock

Vienna is truly the most international city in Austria, if not in all of Central Europe, hosting the regional headquarters of many international enterprises, the UN, OSCE and OPEC. In the central districts you will have no problem communicating in English. Vienna has 23 districts, with the 1st being the city centre, N°2-9 wrapped around it and surrounded by the Gürtel highway. Districts 10-23 are mainly residential areas. Every district is attractive in its own way and equally important, generally safe for tourists.

1. CITY CENTRE The city centre literally refers to the very heart of Vienna. In the mid-19th century Vienna’s old city wall was replaced by the boulevard which in conjunction with the Franz-Josefs-Kai now forms a ring around the city centre. Magnificent buildings such as the state opera house, the Hofburg, the parliament building, the Vienna city hall, the Burgtheater, the university, the Vienna stock exchange and numerous prestigious buildings line this splendid boulevard. Most 5-star hotels as well as major sights are located here. Tourists will spend most of their time in this area, with everything more or less within walking distance.

While Kärnterstrasse and Graben are the two major shopping streets in the city centre, Stephansplatz with St. Stephens cathedral is the very centre of Vienna.

2. PRATER The city’s largest park stretches from the Praterstern metro and train station towards the Ernst Happel stadium. Next to Praterstern is the Wurstelprater amusement park. Some say it’s better to avoid this area after dark. Leopoldstadt in Vienna’s 2nd district used to be the Jewish part of town.

Today the jewish community is again growing and you will find kosher bakeries and a number of synagogues.

3. BELVEDERE & HUNDERTWASSERHAUS The third district is one of Vienna’s most desirable addresses.

Several buildings designed by Vienna’s most unusual architect Friedenreich Hundertwasser, as well as Belvedere Palace, the luxurious residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy, are all located here. In addition, the district houses numerous embassies and foreign missions, hence its name – the Embassy Quarter.

8 Vienna In Your Pocket

6, 7. MARIAHILFERSTRASSE AREA Mariahilferstrasse is known as Central and Eastern Europe’s most important shopping street. Since the fall of the Iron Curtain, hundreds of buses bring shoppers from Hungary, Czech Republic and Slovakia to Vienna’s top shopping street to get their Christmas presents. A lot of interesting stores, nice restaurants and relaxed bars are found strolling around the side streets.

7, 8, 9. GÜRTEL AREA Gürtel is the name of the highway ring that encircles Vienna’s central districts 1-9. In the zone between Westbahnhof station and the Danube canal, the red-light district has developed into Vienna’s hottest nightlife spot with dozens of clubs and bars, one after the other. Go and find a bar that fits your taste!

VIENNESE FOR BEGINNERS Can’t find that strange word in your German dictionary?

Get closer to the Viennese by speaking to them in their own lingo.

Baba Badewaschl Beisl Bierschtln Bock Fetzn Frucht Habara Habschi Herr Ober Kiberer Krügerl Leiwand Mahlzeit Prost!

Seidl Serwas Tschick Ur-Leiwand Weißer Spritzer Wuchtl Zeche 16er Blech

see you lifeguard local pub that serves food to drink shoes to have a buzz a football friend boyfriend waiter policeman large beer awesome have a nice meal cheers small beer hello cigarette very awesome white wine with sparkling water joke check/bill a can of Ottakringer beer

vienna.inyourpocket.com

Basics BASIC DATA Population Austria: 8,773,960; Vienna: 1,867,960 (2017 estimates) 27,4% of people living in Vienna are foreign nationals, over 140,000 of them originating from the former Yugoslavia, 45,000 from Turkey and 42,000 from Germany.

Area: Austria: 83,872 km2; Vienna: 414,90 km2 Official languages: German. Slovene, Croatian and Hungarian are officially recognised.

Local time: Central European (GMT+1hr) Longest river: Danube (357,5 km in Austria) Highest mountain: Austria: Großglockner 3,798m Vienna: Hermannskogel 542m Borders: Austria borders Germany and the Czech Republic to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the west.

Religion: Roman Catholic 49,2%; no religion 25,6%; Muslim 7,8%; Orthodox 6%; Protestant (mostly Lutheran) 4,7%; Jewish 0,5%.

CRIME & SAFETY Vienna is a safe city to visit, and there’s little to fear except perhaps for spending too much on food and souvenirs. As elsewhere, avoid dark alleys at night and clutch your wallet or purse when using public transport or in busy places.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS Most hotels, restaurants and sights in Vienna are wellequipped for people in wheelchairs or otherwise requiring assistance, and public transport is easy to use with its many escalators, lifts and low-floor trams. The symbols below our hotel reviews which hotels are suitable. The city has an informative site for disabled travellers at www.wien.info/ en/travel-info/accessible-vienna.

ELECTRICITY Austrian electrical current is 220v AC, and the country uses the standard European round, two-pin sockets.

MONEY & COSTS Austria uses the euro (€) with banknotes in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins, whose design depends on in which country they were minted, come in denominations of €0.01, €0.02, €0.05, €0.10, €0.20, €0.50, €1 and €2. ATMs can be found everywhere in Vienna and are the best way to get cash. Vienna is not an overly expensive city by Western European standards – and competition from nearby cheap countries keeps the price of for instance cigarettes at bay.

Vienna´s status of a social democratic stronghold means that public services such as public transport are relatively cheap. facebook.com/InYourPocket

History is king in the Austrian capital

POLITICS The current mayor of Vienna is Michael Ludwig. Since 1917, Vienna has been (co-)governed by the Social Democratic Party with an absolute majority in the city parliament (except from 1934 to 1945 when the party was banned and mayors were appointed by the Austro-fascist and later by Nazi authorities). The Social Democrats currently rule in coalition with the Green Party. Many political experts believe that the rival Austrian People’s Party would completely dominate Austrian politics if it weren’t for the Social Democrats’ unbreakable hold on Vienna. An example of the city’s many social democratic policies is the low-cost Gemeindebauten residential estates which house about 25% of the Viennese population.

SMOKING It felt as though it might never happen, but the Smoking Ban has officially made it to Vienna. As of November 1, 2019, puffing away is illegal in all indoor venues, that being restaurants, pubs, bars, clubs, cafes and all the rest, bringing to an end Vienna’s smoking adolescence.

TIPPING If the service merits it, waiters appreciate a tip of about 10%; at the bar or at the Würstelstand it’s common to round up the sum a little.

PURCHASING POWER How far does your euro go in Vienna?

Espresso Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) Bottle of local wine Packet of cigarettes Big Mac Public transport ticket Taxi ride across town Litre of petrol

€2,50 €3,50 €5 €4,50 €3,50 €2,40 €20 €1,30 March – April 2020

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Easter in Vienna

Handbemalte Eier

© www.ostermarkt.co.at, FOTOFALLY

It might only seem like five minutes since the Christmas tree was being put away, but Easter is already approaching.

The religious holiday continues to take on a more secular vibe as the years go by, but this celebration of resurrection remains a popular and relaxed time of year in vibrant Vienna.

First things first, just when is Easter? The festivities will begin on April 9 with Maundy Thursday, before everything kicks into gear over Good Friday, Easter Saturday and Easter Sunday, before coming to a crashing close on Easter Monday (April 13), which is the only actual public holiday over the period. On Easter Saturday and Sunday the Vienna Symphony Orchestra performs ‘Spring in Vienna’ at the Musikverein, and we can’t think of a more ‘Vienna’ experience over this cheerful time. The Vienna Blues Spring music festival also reaches fever pitch during this time, before closing on April 30.

Ostermarkt Schloss Schönbrunn

10 Vienna In Your Pocket

So what can a visitor expect in Vienna over Easter? Well, not too many Austrians, for a start. Many locals take advantage of this holiday to head to the mountains and wring the last drops out of the ski season, giving the capital city a decidedly breezy vibe. The abundance of Easter markets accentuates that, offering visitors a chance to pick up some decidedly unique souvenirs. The best of the bunch can be found at Schloss Schönbrunn, which won’t surprise any Vienna veterans.

As for traditions, the increasingly secular nature of the holiday means many of these are being pushed into the background, as the modern trend of chocolate eggs takes over. Not that we’re complaining, chocolate eggs are our favourite type of eggs, so expect to see plenty of them in Vienna this Easter.

Sticking with eggs, the tradition of painting eggs is still alive and well, and all the colours of the rainbow are represented. Many will spend the morning of Easter Sunday putting these decorated eggs into combat, as the traditional cracking contest takes centerstage. It’s a strange one without doubt, but we’re not going to deny the fun part of it.

Easter in Vienna in a nutshell? The modern fashion of chocolate eggs and ubiquitous rabbits is the new norm, but there are bits and pieces of tradition that still manage to peek above the precipice. The markets themselves have been a mainstay of the holiday for over 350 years, while the mass of concerts (no pun intended) hark back to a time when classical tunes were king in this most classical of cities. In many ways, Easter in Vienna is the perfect mix of the old and the new, the traditional and the revolutionary, the classical and the chocolate.

© ostermarkt.co.at, FotoFally

vienna.inyourpocket.com

Events

Wiener Riesenrad | © ernschie

You don’t need us to tell you that Vienna is a thrillingly cultural city, but we’re going to go ahead and wax lyrical about it nonetheless. This is the city of classical music, of art and of expression, where aesthetics mean something more and an immense pride is taken in anything that the mind conjured up for the hands and heart to create.

There is never a shortage of exhibitions in Vienna, while the classical and opera schedules are the envy of cities worldwide. Throw in a healthy sprinkling of gigs by many of the world’s most exciting bands and you’ve got a city that does culture better than, well, almost anywhere else in the world. Check out the best that the city has to offer over the next couple of months across the pages below, and good luck trying to see it all.

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 17.05 » OTTO PRUTSCHER

Born in Vienna in 1880, Otto Prutscher was a man of many talents, all of which ticked creative boxes all over the place.

Primarily an architect and designer, Prutscher was also an exhibition designer, teacher and artist, one of the first students of the Vienna School of Arts and Crafts. Prutscher’s designs are marvellous things, so get yourself to this exhibition and see for yourself. QC‑2, MAK – Museum of Applied Arts, Stubenring 5, MStubentor, Landstrasse, tel. +43 1 712 80 00, www. mak.at. Open 10:00-18:00, Tue 10:00-22:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 24.05 » THE HAHNLOSER COLLECTION

What do you get when you combine one of the most important art museums in Europe with one of the most important collections of modern art? Magic, that’s what. facebook.com/InYourPocket

Namely you get The Hahnloser Collection at the Albertina, showcasing works from much-loved artists like Vincent van Gogh, Renoir, Matisse and a whole lot more. Around 120 works make up the collection, which runs from the end of February through to the end of May.QB‑3, Albertina, Albertinaplatz 1, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 53 48 30, Admission €16,90, Seniors 65+ €12,90, Young adults under 26 €11,90, under 19s free, www.albertina.at.

UNTIL 19.04 » JOHN AKOMFRAH

One of the Secession’s big highlights this year, John Akomfrah is all ready to present three film installations with complimenting themes and all sorts of arresting visuals.

Water is the theme here, the immense vastness of the ocean, the important role it has played in the development of mankind, both the positives and the negatives (the latter being a massive understatement). A founding member of the hugely influential Black Audio Film Collective, Akomfrah remains one of the most important visual artists of his generation. QA‑3, Secession, Friedrichstrasse 12, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 587 53 07, www.secession.at.

Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 29.03 » JAMES COLEMAN

Our interpretation of media goes hand in hand with how we understand the world around us, and it is that complex conundrum that Irish artist James Coleman tackles here, through overlapping images accentuated by multi-layered voiceovers. This is a gradual process, not the immediate fix that many want, encouraging the sort of patience that is imperative for our survival. QG‑3, Mumok, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 50 00, www.mumok.at.

Open 10:00-19:00, Mon 14:00-19:00, Thu 10:00-21:00.

March – April 2020

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Events UNTIL 13.04 » OBJECTS RECOGNIZED IN FLASHES

An excellent title, first of all. Objects Recognized in Flashes is the name of a group exhibition focuses on photos, products and bodies, a collection of work developed by the curator with the expert analysis of internationally acclaimed artists alongside her. How does our society deal with analogue and digital images? What lies between the material and the immaterial?QG‑3, Mumok, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 50 00, www.mumok.at. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon 14:0019:00, Thu 10:00-21:00.

UNTIL 13.04 » MICHAEL HOROWITZ

Michael Horowitz is something of a Vienna institution at this point, a staple on the photography scene since his high school days way back in the ‘60s. Well-known for his work concerning the high and mighty of Viennese society, this exhibition documents the most creative phases of his life, times spent documenting the fascinating cultural and social development of this most famous city.QB‑3, Albertina, Albertinaplatz 1, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 53 48 30, Admission €16,90, Seniors 65+ €12,90, Young adults under 26 €11,90, under 19s free., www.albertina. at Open 10:00-18:00, Wed, Fri 10:00-21:00.

TICKETS

WIEN-TICKET PAVILLON A handy box office in a hut by the Staatsoper, selling tickets for all kinds of events in and outside Vienna: opera, theatre, shows, concerts, festivals, sports events, musicals, museums and more. You can also pre-book by phone, picking up the tickets at the pavillion kiosk, at one of over 100 outlets across town, or at the venue.

QB-3, Herbert von Karajanplatz, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 588 85, office@wien-ticket.at, www.wienticket.at. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

VIENNA TICKET OFFICE Tickets for opera, concerts, shows, sights, cruises and more.QB-3, Kärntner Straße 51, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 513 11 11, info@viennaticketoffice.com, www.viennaticketoffice.com. Open 09:00 - 18:50.

12 Vienna In Your Pocket

UNTIL 17.05 » MASTER OF MONDSEE

Running from February until the middle of May, the Belvedere plays host to a visual love letter to the one of the greats. Part of the IN-SIGHT series, the Master of Mondsee brings together the entire Mondsee Altarpiece for the first time, creating a delightful cultural context to it all. QC‑4, Belvedere, Prinz-Eugen-Str. 27, tel. +43 1 79 55 70, www. belvedere.at. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 21:00.

UNTIL 20.04 » GERMAN EXPRESSIONISM

Art has been on quite the ride over the centuries, with the evolution of emotion from internal to external one of the great changes in recent times. Instinct took over from academic acceptance, and art became something closer to expression than achievement. German artists were at the forefront of this, and German Expressionism is one of those great artistic tangents that will forever inform young artists worldwide. The Leopold Museum is showcasing more than 100 works from the Braglia and Johenning collections, vital signposts on the highway of expressionism. QG‑3, Leopold Museum, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 57 00, www.leopoldmuseum.org. Open 10:00 – 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

PERMANENT EXHIBITION » MONET TO PICASSO

The Albertina houses one of Europe’s most important collections of Modernist art, in the form of the Batliner Collection. Its permanent display starts off with such artists of Impressionism and Post-Impressionism as Monet, Degas, Cézanne, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Gauguin. Further highlights include examples of German Expressionism, with the groups of Brücke and Der Blaue Reiter, and the art of New Objectivity, with works by Wacker, Sedlacek, and Hofer. An in-depth focus on Austrian art comprises works by Kokoschka and paintings by Egger Lienz. The great diversity of the Russian avant-garde is represented by paintings by Goncharova, Malevich, and Chagall.

The presentation is topped off by numerous chefs-d’oeuvre

by Picasso, ranging from his early Cubist pictures and works from his mature period of the 1940s to superb prints that have not yet been exhibited and paintings from his experimental late period.QB‑3, Albertina, Albertinaplatz 1, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 53 48 30, Admission €16,90, Seniors 65+ €12,90, Young adults under 26 €11,90, under 19s free., www.albertina.at. Open 10:00-18:00, Wed, Fri 10:00-21:00.

UNTIL 13.04 » WARHOL TO RICHTER

Exactly what it says on the tin. An exhibition of around 80 works by some of the great 20th century artists, including the two geniuses found in the moniker. The madness of the post-World War II period is the focus, where artistic genres were popping up in all forms all over the place, smashing boundaries and pushing envelopes of all kinds. QB‑3, Albertina, Albertinaplatz 1, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 53 48 30, www.albertina.at. Open 10:0018:00, Wed, Fri 10:00-21:00. vienna.inyourpocket.com

Events UNTIL 03.05 » LENNART NILSSON

KUNSTHALLE

It is one of the most important photographic milestones in history, a defining moment in the marriage of science and art. 1965 was the year, Lennart Nilsson was the artist and Life magazine was the canvas, but it was the subject and its innocence that captivated. The subject was an 18 week old foetus in the womb, bringing to the world an image that was previously only known to scientists and medical professionals. That picture and many more are on show at this exhibition of Nilsson’s work, including a shooting with Ingrid Bergman and various field shots in places as varied as the Congo and the Arctic. QE‑3, Westlicht Museum, Westbahnstrasse 40, MBurgasse-Stadthalle, www. westlicht.com. Open 14:00-19:00, Thu 14:00-21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 19.04 » MICHAEL E. SMITH

Not to be confused with future world darting champion Michael ‘Bully Boy’ Smith, Michael E. Smith is an artist known for his sculptures, installations, object collages, videos and the rest, a creative man with his fingers in many different pies. It isn’t all visual of course, as the man includes components like light, sound and life into the process, making for some seriously impactful work. Head to Secession this spring to see more. QA‑3, Secession, Friedrichstrasse 12, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 587 53 07, www.secession.at. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 29.03 » “SITZEN 69” REVISITED

Furniture is a funny thing. We don’t mean ‘funny haha’, obviously, more fascinating and intriguing. Sitzen 69 was first seen in 1969, an exhibition of furniture in the Austrian Museum of Applied Arts (MAK, today) that displayed chairs and the rest from Scandinavia, Italy, Germany and Austria. It was far from comprehensive though, and the exhibition has returned with unfinished business. Furniture has never been more discussed than it is today, making this a very topical exhibition.

QC‑2, MAK – Museum of Applied Arts, Stubenring 5, MStubentor, Landstrasse, tel. +43 1 712 80 00, www.mak. at. Open 10:00-18:00, Tue 10:00-22:00. Closed Mon.

UNTIL 13.04 » READING TIME IN SPACE

It is a question that we don’t really understand — what is modernism? Is it a defined point in time, a celebrated period, a genre? How was it seen back in the day? These questions are embraced in this exhibition, a collection of exhibitions and book projects that tackle the curious world that is modernism. Works by many excellent international artists will be displayed at mumok in this one. QG‑3, Mumok, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 50 00, www.mumok.at. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon 14:00-19:00, Thu 10:00-21:00.

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Tim Etchell, Mirror Pieces, 2014 © Beniamin Boar, KunstHalle Wien

08.03 - 08.05 » … OF BREAD, WINE, CARS, SECURITY AND PEACE

The award for most creative exhibition title of the year goes to this one, scheduled for the Kunsthalle between March and May of 2020. The title itself comes from a book written by Lebanese author Bilal Khbeiz, musing over the different dreams of the global north and south, and this exhibition continues the idea, savagely critiquing the processes that undermine the quest for a dignified life. QB‑3, Kunsthalle Wien, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 521 89 33, www. kunsthallewien.at.

UNTIL 07.06 » LET´S DANCE! THE VIENNESE CAFETIER OTTO POLLAK

The Cafe Palmhof, located at Mariahilferstrasse 135, is much missed by many members of Viennese society. The cafe was ran by Otto Pollak, and his life story typifies Jewish participation in the city’s cultural life. This exhibition tells that tale, allowing Pollak’s curious ways to come to the fore, seen through artefacts and objects from this iconic spot. QB‑2, Jüdisches Museum Wien (Jewish Museum Vienna), Dorotheergasse 11, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 53 50 43 13 10, www.jmw.at. Open 10:00-18:00.

UNTIL 16.08 » ALEC SOTH

A picture tells a thousand words, or something like that, and the work of Alec Soth is a testament to that time-honoured idea. The American artist has been at the forefront of the photography world for a while now, his work known for its ability to transcend the limitations of aesthetics and create something altogether more linguistic, his work largely focusing on the suburban and rural areas of the USA. His work provides a window to the ordinary lives of ordinary people, that most extraordinary of subjects.ety.QI‑2, Kunsthaus Wien, Untere Weißgerberstraße 13, MRadetzkyplatz, tel. +43 1 712 04 91, www.kunsthauswien.com. Open 10:00-18:00.

March – April 2020

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Events CINEMAS Unlike most other Europeans, Austrians prefer their films dubbed into German rather than simply subtitled. But if you’ve got a hankering for a night at the movies while you’re here, several cinemas serve up the latest Hollywood offerings in their original language. Keep in mind: seats are assigned and usually vary in price depending on where they are in the theatre.

ARTIS INTERNATIONAL Tucked into a tiny side street in the first district, this theatre offers 10 – 15 English language new releases daily. Showtimes begin around 16:00, Mondays through Wednesdays have reduced admission, and a student ID will snag you a small discount.QSchultergasse 5, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 535 65 70, www.cineplexx.at. Tickets €9,90 - €7,20.

HAYDN ENGLISH CINEMA The four-screen Haydn cinema shows up to six different movies per day, all in English and without subtitles. Film fans planning a longer stay can get reduced prices and other privileges with the Super Saver Card.QF-3, Mariahilferstrasse 57, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 587 22 62, www. haydnkino.at. Tickets €7-9.

04.03 - 05.04 » HUMAN BY DESIGN

Now we’re talking. Are we alive or just living? Wait, that wasn’t the Killswitch Engage album, was it? Either way, ‘Life to Lifeless’ was a tune. Nothing to do with that here though, as MAK Vienna continues it forays into design and innovation by giving light to the voices of young artists in this curious exhibition. QC‑2, MAK – Museum of Applied Arts, Stubenring 5, MStubentor, Landstrasse, tel. +43 1 712 80 00, www.mak.at. Open 10:0018:00, Tue 10:00-22:00. Closed Mon.

06.03 - 26.07 » HAVING LIVED - INGEBORG STROBL

Life is more than the obvious, art knows this. Ingeborg Strobl certainly does, and such fringe elements get some much needed shine in this archive retrospective. Strobl passed away in 2017 and left her work to mumok, and that oeuvre gets a much-deserved showcase at the museum this year. QG‑3, Mumok, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 50 00, www.mumok. at. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon 14:00-19:00, Thu 10:00-21:00.

06.03 - 21.06 » BUTTER - STEVE REINKE

He claims that his work wants him dead. Can art dictate the life of its creator to the point of such drama? Possibly, maybe not, who knows, only the individual. The grave is closer than it seems. If you’re into such nihilistic ideas and are curious about the relationship between art and artist — 14 Vienna In Your Pocket

a common conversation at IYP HQ — then get your buns to mumok and check out Steve Reinke’s latest, an exhibition that views exitence as little more than life in a petri dish.

QG‑3, Mumok, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 50 00, www.mumok.at. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon 14:00-19:00, Thu 10:00-21:00.

07.03 - 06.09 » ALLES WAR KLER

‘Everything Was Clear’ is the English translation of this exhibition’s title, a chance to engage in a deep dive of the last 150 years. Not everything during that time of course, that would take forever, but specifically looking at how institutional routines can be questioned. The exhibition covers seven rooms and is available by invitation only, although that can be achieved by sending an email to eroeffnung@k-haus.at. If you’re interested in intellectual art of dramaturgy of any kind, this is for you. QKünstlerhaus Wien, Karlsplatz 5, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 587 96 63.

25.03 - 19.07 » RAIMUND ABRAHAM

Quite the range of projects on display here. Raimund Abraham passed away in 2010 but he left behind a storied legacy of architectural genius, encompassing art, philosophy, literature, film and more. His drawings, collages and models for revolutionary forms of architecture make up the bulk of this exhibition, which runs at MAK until the middle of July. Qwww.mak.at.

26.03 - 29.06 » BALKRISHNA DOSHI

An architect, urbanist and teacher on the front lines of Indian artistic modernity, Balkrishna Doshi is something of a revolutionary. Much of his work has been focused on low-cost housing and urban planning, not to mention a fierce commitment and belief in education, and he was thus awarded the Pritzker Prize in 2018. His is a mentality of architecture for the people, and his ideas can be seen in Vienna this spring. QG‑3, Architekturzentrum Wien, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 521 31 15 30, www.azw.at. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

LIVE MUSIC 08.03 20:00 » BURNA BOY

A veritable megastar, Burna Boy is one of those artists that you have probably heard plenty by without realising it. The Nigerian-born star rose to prominence in 2012 and hasn’t stopped since, picking up awards and Grammy nominations along the way. QBank Austria Gasometer Halle, Guglgasse 8, MGasometer, €61,9.

22.03 11:00 » ANNE-SOPHIE MUTTER & FRIENDS

2020 is the year of Beethoven, as we celebrate the great man’s 250th birthday, and Anne-Sophie Mutter gets to fulfil a childhood dream along the way. This is 20 years in the making for the talented musician, who has committed herself to creating storytellers out of musicians. QC‑3, Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse 20, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 24 20 02, €22-95, www.konzerthaus.at. vienna.inyourpocket.com

Events 30.03 20:00 » AKUA NARU

One of our favourite artists making noise at the moment, Akua Naru blends the smooth sounds of lounge rap with all manner of flavour, adding Ghanaian drums, jazz, soul and all sorts to the mix. The New Haven native plays Porgy & Bess at the end of March. QB‑2, Porgy & Bess, Riemergasse 11, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 88 11, €28,5.

MUSICALS UNTIL 30.04 » CATS

Cats is a musical about cats, don’t you know. One of the most popular musicals on the planet, Cats has been doing the rounds since 1981 and there is no end in sight for the feline festival. It has even made it to the silver screen, although the trailer for the official film received quite the backlash. No such worries on the stage. QH‑2, Ronacher, Seilerstätte 9, MStephansplatz, from € 49, www.musicalvienna.at. Closed Mon.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS 20.03 » SANTANA

Our second favourite Santana (after World Wrestling Federation legend Tito), Carlos Santana is one of those guitarists that are legitimate icons, men who have been widdling away for decades slaying all in their path. How many tours does the great man have left in him? That isn’t for us to speculate, but we’re happy to keep seeing him until he calls it a day. QWiener Stadthalle, RolandRainer-Platz 1, tel. +43 1 98100-200, €67-117.

Santana

© Barracuda Music GmbH

22.03 » AVRIL LAVIGNE

We’re not proud about it, but we can remember exactly where we were the first time we heard Avril Lavigne’s ‘Complicated’. Now, ‘Sk8r Boi’ hasn’t aged well at all but we’re going to defend ‘I’m With You’ until the death, overambitious high note or not. The Canadian icon plays Vienna Stadthalle on March 22. QWiener Stadthalle, RolandRainer-Platz 1, tel. +43 1 98100-200, €56. facebook.com/InYourPocket

MAK.at

Grafische Gestaltung: brand unit, Foto © Henrik Blomqvist

March – April 2020

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Events 28.03 » METRONOMY

The English pop charmers are at it again, bringing their now perfected tour back to Europe complete with immensely handsome back line technicians and a predilection for some back stage darts. Expect good tunes, plenty of lights, and no small amount of g’daaaaaaaaaarts. QBank Austria Gasometer Halle, Guglgasse 8, MGasometer, www. metronomy.co.uk.

31.03 19:30 » JAMES BLUNT

Love him or hate him, James Blunt is definitely still a thing.

You know what you’re going to get with the songwriter, although we’re still all sorts of skeptical about his claims of stopping World War III during the Kosovo crisis. Russia just wasn’t strong enough for things to escalate so, surely. QWiener Stadthalle, Roland-Rainer-Platz 1, tel. +43 1 98100-200, €56-63.

MASTERS OF DIRT

Avril Lavigne

© Barracuda Music GmbH

01.04 » RUSSIAN CIRCLES

We’re still blown away by the idea of post metal bands playing arenas, but the success of Russian Circles is all sorts of overdue. These boys have been at the apex of the genre for years now, allying massive riffs to emotive soundscapes to create some seriously impressive sounds.

One of the best live bands on the planet too, for what it is worth. QArena Wien, Baumgasse 80, MErdberg, www. russiancirclesband.com.

05.04 » NADA SURF

‘Popular’ was one of our favourite songs when we were younger, oh boy what a tune. We’re not sure how representative it is of the entire Nada Surf back catalogue, but we’re going to put it on the stereo while we bang out the rest of this issue. Massive, massive tune, great video. QArena Wien, Baumgasse 80, MErdberg, www.nadasurf.com.

07.04 18:30 » PARKWAY DRIVE

14.03 14:00, 14.03 20:00, 15.03 16:00 » MASTERS OF DIRT

© Petr Pilat

Hell yeah! Masters of Dirt is exactly what you hope it is going to be, a night of freestyle motocross showcasing some of the wildest FMX tricks on the planet. This will be an action packed night of daredevil actions and lord knows what else, so don your leather and come on down. Some of this stuff is truly terrifying, redefining what we have come to know as adrenaline-heavy and showing just how far stunts and tricks have come since the heady days of Mr. Knievel. Expect your heart to be in your mouth most of the evening, but my word is this stuff addictive. Hats off to the riders (and the firebreathing ladies), that’s for sure.QWiener Stadthalle, Roland-Rainer-Platz 1, tel. +43 1 98100-200, €33,6180, www.mastersofdirt.com.

16 Vienna In Your Pocket

Parkway Drive are a big deal over here, that much is for sure, so you can expect their European shows to be sold out in next to no time. Fans of breakdowns and big riffs will almost certainly have their tickets already.QWiener Stadthalle, Roland-Rainer-Platz 1, tel. +43 1 98100-200, €51-57.

16.04 19:00 » NO FUN AT ALL

No Fun at All are a Swedish punk band who have been doing this for more than 20 years, which is an impressive achievement to say the least. 2020 marks the 25th anniversary of the band’s excellent ‘Out of Bounds album and sees them head out on tour once more, with the Satanic Surfers in tow. QArena Wien, Baumgasse 80, MErdberg, €30.

18.04 20:00 » IN EXTREMO

The world needs more medieval metal bands. We’re serious about that, it really does, as it is nigh on impossible to have a bad time while listening to the beautiful combination of the miserable middle ages and some seriously good musicianship. Berlin’s In Extremo are the world’s foremost medieval metal band, so kudos to them.QBank Austria Gasometer Halle, Guglgasse 8, MGasometer, €49,99. vienna.inyourpocket.com

Events 24.04 » CARIBOU

Dan Snaith has carved himself out a gorgeous little niche in the musical world, releasing a steady stream of work under a variety of monikers since bursting onto the scene back in 2001. 2020 sees the first album under the Caribou name for over half a decade, with the electronic pop arm of Snaith’s empire hitting Vienna at the end of April. QBank Austria Gasometer Halle, Guglgasse 8, MGasometer.

ALBERTINA

26.04 » HELMS ALEE

We have long subscribed to the idea that the noisier music is, the better it is, and we like to think that Seattlebased Helms Alee agree. Tune it low, play it slow, that is the way we like it, and we’re pretty excited about the trio’s upcoming gig in the small hall of Arena Wien at the end of April. QArena Wien, Baumgasse 80, MErdberg.

Maria Lassnig, Woman Power, 1979, The ALBERTINA Museum, Vienna – The ESSL Collection

James Blunt

© Gavon Bond

SPECIAL EVENTS UNTIL 15.03 » PALAZZO

We’ll be honest, we were a little disappointed when we found out that this has nothing do with Enrico Pallazzo, him of ‘Naked Gun’ fame. Palazzo is just as entertaining though, combining incredible food with other-worldly acrobatics that beggar belief. Humour, food, athleticism.

Do note that the Sunday show starts at 18:00, and the NYE event is priced differently. QSpiegelpalast at Prater Wien, Ausstellungsstraße / Perspektivstraße, MMesse-Prater, €88-€160, www.palazzo.org. Closed Mon.

07.03 16:00, 07.03 20:00, 08.03 15:00 » THE MONKS OF SHAOLIN KUNG-FU

A family show with a parade of the most spectacular Kung Fu and Qi Gong exercises by the Shaolin monks: from Tai Chi, Kung Fu to Qu Gong, the 20 monks, masters and students give their best.QWiener Stadthalle, RolandRainer-Platz 1, tel. +43 1 98100-200, €35.

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© Maria Lassnig Foundation, Bildrecht, Vienna, 2020

13.03 - 02.08 » THE BEGINNING: ART IN AUSTRIA 1945 TO 1980

One of the most famous artistic cities on the planet, how did Vienna respond and develop in the decades following World War II? That question can finally be answered through the works displayed in this fascinating exhibition, putting contemporary Austrian art from that period up against international counterparts. It was a time of deep thought and self evaluation, not to mention national evaluation, and such struggles are often best depicted through creative and artistic expression. In that particular time period, Austria was experiencing an unprecedented time of self-evaluation in the wake of National Socialism, coming to terms with the horrors that had been and the city’s artists reacted with aplomb, through the innovations of the art club to the explosion of avantgarde and much more. This is the first exhibition at the brand new ALBERTINA Modern, the second exhibition space of the famous museum, and it promises to kick things off in stunning fashion. The new gallery is just a short walk from the Albertina and can be found outside the Karlsplatz U-Bahn station.QALBERTINA modern, Karlsplatz 5, MKarlsplatz, Admission €16,90, Seniors 65+ €12,90, Young adults under 26 €11,90, under 19s free.

March – April 2020

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City of Classical Music Vienna has always been synonymous with music. Some of the greatest musical figures in history lived and worked in Vienna: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Ludwig van Beethoven, Joseph Haydn, Franz Schubert, Johann Strauss, Gustav Mahler, Arnold Schönberg, Alban Berg to name a few of them. Writing to his father in 1781, Mozart said: “Vienna is the best place in the world for my profession.” Because of the importance of these musicians the tradition is maintained in Vienna by regular concert events and festivals. Attractive concerts are held every day of the year. But Vienna is also the capital of the waltz. The Vienna Philharmonic’s New Year’s Concert is the most famous classical concert in the world.

It takes place every year on 1 January at the Musikverein and always ends with the Blue Danube waltz by Johann Strauss Junior. Another fixed attraction in Austrian musical life is the Vienna Boys Choir, one of the oldest boys’ choirs in the world. For nearly five hundred years they have been a symbol of Austria. And, as ever, every Sunday the Vienna Boys’ Choir sing solemn mass in Vienna’s Hofburg chapel, continuing a tradition unbroken since 1498.

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 12.03 19:30 » LEIF OVE ANDSNES

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The New York Times described Leif Ove Andsnes as “a pianist of masterful elegance, strength and insight” and the Wall Street Journal called him “one of the most talented musicians of this generation”. With his impressive technique and penetrating interpretations, the acclaimed Norwegian pianist, who has given recitals and concerts in the world’s leading concert halls and with the world’s most outstanding orchestras, has received worldwide acclaim.

QC‑3, Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse 20, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 24 20 02, €20-62, www.konzerthaus.at.

12.03 19:30 » RENÉE FLEMING

The US-American singer Renée Fleming is one of the most sought-after sopranos in the world. She made her debut in 1986 as Konstanze in Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart’s “Die Entführung aus dem Serail” at the Salzburg Landestheater.

Fleming made her breakthrough in 1988 as Countess in Mozart’s “Le nozze di Figaro” at the Houston Grand Opera. Fleming has appeared at the Vienna State Opera, the Bavarian State Opera in Munich, the Royal Opera House Covent Garden in London, La Scala in Milan, the Opéra Bastille in Paris and the Metropolitan Opera in New York. Until 2008 alone she sang 51 different roles.QB‑3, Musikverein, Bösendorferstrasse 12, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 505 81 90, €7-99, www.musikverein.at.

1010 Vienna | Domgasse 5 www.mozarthausvienna.at

18 Vienna In Your Pocket

17.03 19:30 » LANG LANG

A childhood prodigy, Lang Lang is now an international superstar and a household name, an iconic pianist with an army of fans from here to Shenyang, northern China.

Lang is one of the few classical stars to have transcended over into pop culture, so expect a diverse audience in Vienna this spring. QC‑3, Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse 20, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 24 20 02, €31-180, www. konzerthaus.at. vienna.inyourpocket.com

02.04 19:30 » YUJA WANG

Critical superlatives and audience ovations have continuously followed Yuja Wang’s dazzling career. The Beijing-born pianist, celebrated for her charismatic artistry and captivating stage presence, is set to achieve new heights during the 2019-20 season, which features recitals, concert series, as well as season residencies and extensive tours with some of the world’s most venerated ensembles and conductors.QC‑3, Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse 20, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 24 20 02, €20-73, www.konzerthaus.at.

27.04 19:30 » LONDON SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA

As a self-governing body, the orchestra selects the conductors with whom it works. At some stages in its history it has dispensed with a principal conductor and worked only with guests. Among conductors with whom it is most associated are, in its early days, Hans Richter, Sir Edward Elgar, and Sir Thomas Beecham, and in more recent decades Pierre Monteux, André Previn, Claudio Abbado, Sir Colin Davis, and Valery Gergiev.QC‑3, Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse 20, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 24 20 02, €25-120, www.konzerthaus.at.

OPERA 13.03, 16.03, 19.03 19:30 » FALSTAFF

Falstaff is Giuseppe Verdi’s last opera. With it, the aged composer once again tried his hand at comic opera, a genre that he had not touched since his failed opera Un giorno di regno nearly 50 years earlier. Falstaff was premièred in 1893 at La Scala Milan just a few weeks before the première of the first truly resounding success by the young Giacomo Puccini, Manon Lescaut. Thus a kind of compositional transfer to the next generation had taken place.QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, €16-239, www.wiener-staatsoper.at.

20.03, 23.03, 26.03 19:00 » TOSCA

Rome, 1800: The city suffers from Scarpias, the Chief Constables, reign of terror. The seditious painter Cavaradossi falls into his clutches and is bound to be executed. His beloved Tosca - chased after by Scarpia - strikes a bargain: She answers his desires, and Scarpia will save Cavaradossi by a fake execution with blank cartridges in return. Scarpia agrees, approaches her - and she stabs him to death.

But he, too, has not kept his word and ordered to shoot Cavaradossi with real ammunition. With a broken heart, she leaps to her death from the pinnacles of Castel Sant’Angelo.

QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, www.wiener-staatsoper.at.

21.03, 25.03 19:00 » LA CENERENTOLA

La Cenerentola is based largely on the famous story of Cinderella, above all the version by Charles Perrault. It offers a successful balance of irony, comedy, lyricism, melancholy and fairy tale undertones and appeals equally to adults and young visitors to the opera. For many people, although La facebook.com/InYourPocket

Enjoy a night of culture at the State Opera

© Oesterreich Werbung

Cenerentola was written in very little time, it is the most poetic of all comic Rossini operas.QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, €14206, www.wiener-staatsoper.at.

27.03, 30.03, 03.04, 06.04 19:00 » LE NOZZE DI FIGARO

What a day of folly! Figaro – count Almavivas inventive valet – is about to marry Susanna – maid to the countess. Almaviva, being after Susanna as hopeless womanizer, dreams of executing the outdated “right of the first night”, the countess tries to save her marriage, the young footboy Cherubino is chasing every skirt in sight. Now add old wedding vows, rediscovered parenthood, intrigues of all sorts, disguises until complete confusion – and enjoy a happy ending. QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, €15-215, www.wiener-staatsoper.at.

09.04 17:30, 12.04 17:00, 15.04 17:00 » PARSIFAL

Parsifal, Wagners last music drama, has had a special place in opera history ever since its world première. The work, which Wagner described as “Bühnenweihfestspiel” (sacred festival drama), builds a bridge towards religion by creating a stylistic religion of art. The central theme is compassion: Parsifal, the chosen future redeemer, needs to discover empathic feeling in the course of the drama. Thus he can not only save others but become the grail king.QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, €17-259, www.wiener-staatsoper.at.

17.04, 20.04, 23.04, 26.04 19:00 » L’ITALIANA IN ALGERI

Mustafà is looking for love. Isabella, a beautiful Italian girl, arrives at just the right time after her ship is hijacked.

However, it’s not all plain sailing: in Mustavà’s palace, Isabella finds her true love, Lindoro. Together, they decide to elope. Mustafà enters the fictional order of the Pappataci, who swear by the oath: Nothing to see, nothing to hear, just eat and drink. Isabella and Lindoro are now free to elope. And Mustafà returns to his faithful wife Elvira.QB‑3, Staatsoper, Opernring 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 514 44 22 50, €14-206, www.wiener-staatsoper.at.

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Coffeehouses

Vienna’s cafe scene is legendary for good reason. | © Jörg Peter

Vienna is one of those cities where coffee is much more than just a drink. Many coffee houses in Vienna date back to the 19th century, when there was little private heating, and people used the coffee houses as a second living room, because they could not afford to heat their homes.Unlike some other café traditions around the world, it is completely normal for a customer to linger alone for hours and study the omnipresent newspapers.

Along with coffee, the waiter will serve an obligatory glass of cold tap water and during a long stay will often

COFFEE MENU DECODER If you order just a coffee in Vienna, don’t be surprised when the waiter continues to stare at you... he’s waiting for you to be more specific than that. Below a selection of the most popular variations of coffee served. Most prominent are the Melange or a large and small Brauner. Most cafes will also serve you popular international choices such as cappucino or café latte.

Brauner Large or small black coffee with milk added for getting its brown colour Espresso Large or small black coffee from the Espressomachine Einspänner Double espresso with whipped cream Mokka Large or small black coffee in a large or small mocha-cup Melange Large cup of coffee with hot milk foam Kaisermelange Large mocha without milk, but stirred with an egg yolk, honey, cognac or brandy Kapuziner Small mocha with some drops of cream 20 Vienna In Your Pocket

bring additional water unrequested, with the idea being that you are a guest who should feel welcome and not pressured to leave. Many cafés provide small food dishes like sausages as well as desserts, cakes and tarts, like Apfelstrudel and Linzer Torte. In many classic cafés piano music is played in the evenings and social events like literary readings are held.

VIENNESE COFFEEHOUSES CAFÉ CENTRAL Originally opened in 1876, Café Central boasts a number of famous regulars over the years, including Leo Trotsky, Adolf Loos, Vladimir Lenin and Sigmund Freud. The café, restored in 1986, is reminiscent of both the intellectuals who frequented the café and the imperial grandeur of Austria. Café Central is perfectly situated behind the Hofburg, making it an ideal place to stop for a delicious piece of Apfelstrudel and rich hot chocolate after you’ve spent hours wandering through the nearby twin museums and the Imperial Palace. Reservations recommended for groups (tel: +43 1 533 37 63 61)QA‑2, Herrengasse 14, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 533 37 63 24/+43 1 533 37 63 61, www.cafecentral.wien. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

CAFE DIGLAS All of the heavenly cakes at this century-old café are baked in-house, and you can even observe the process on a large monitor just above the counter. Order your coffee, pick a cake of your choice at the counter, and be sure to memorize its funny name so you could spell it out to the waiter in flawless Viennese when ordering.

Service can be slow, but after all, it’s contemplating and vienna.inyourpocket.com

Coffeehouses lingering over sweet treats that people come here for.

QB‑2, Wollzeile 10, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 57 650, www.diglas.at. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

CAFÉ HAWELKA This is a real legend. Multiple books and hundreds of articles have been written about this classic café and generations of artists and authors have made this smoky den their home. Make sure to visit during the week, on weekends larger tourist groups spoil the unique atmosphere.QB‑2, Dorotheergasse 6, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 82 30, www.hawelka. at. Open 08:00 - 02:00.

CAFÉ LANDTMANN Located in the heart of Vienna, this café has a definite advantage over the other coffeehouses in the winter: despite the cold, you can still sit “outside” on the heated glass veranda, which looks out to the Burgtheater and the neo-classical Rathaus (town hall), seat of the city’s government. The café specializes in seasonal and Austrian deserts, and the excellent brews will remind you why Vienna is so well known for its coffee. The waiting staff has retained many typical aspects of Vienna’s coffee culture, so beware the Wiener Schmäh, it just might put a big smile on your face.QA‑1, Universitätsring 4, MSchottentor, tel. +43 1 24 10 01 10, www.landtmann.at. Open 07:30 - 24:00.

CAFÉ PRÜCKEL An exemplary, U-shaped Ringstrasse café in stunning Jugendstil design that pampers its guests with a relaxed environment. It’s flawlessly designed to let you sink into a book or have an intimate conversation with friends.

The café also organises a bevy of concerts, readings and other events in other sections of the U, ensuring that its clientele always has sufficient stimulating entertainment while simultaneously maintaining the chill atmosphere for its more introverted guests.QC‑2, Stubenring 24, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 512 61 15, www.prueckel.at.

Open 08:30 – 22:00.

CAFÉ SACHER Hotel Sacher is widely known for providing the scenery for much of The Third Man and, more importantly, for its famous Original Sacher-Torte chocolate cake. The hotel’s red clad doormen will usher you into the crisp, classic café, where you can enjoy a fresh slice. True, you can get socalled Sacher Torten at other cafés around town, but there’s nothing like tasting the original in its noble home.QB‑3, Philharmonikerstr. 4, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 51 45 60, www.sacher.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00.

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CAFÉ SPERL Café Sperl first opened in 1880 and has been a hit amongst the locals ever since. It became the preferred stomping grounds for many singers, artists, writers, architects, generals and public officials, despite the usual political and social differences in the artistic and military/public sectors. The pool tables also set Café Sperl apart from other coffeehouses, and the cakes are to die for. The café also has an extensive international newspaper selection.QG‑3, Gumpendorferstr.

11, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 586 41 58, www. cafesperl.at. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.

DEMEL Located in the upscale Kohlmarkt shopping street and just behind the Hofburg, Demel was once the Imperial and Royal Court Bakery. Since the fall of the Austrian empire, Demel has continued to produce world-class baked goods, and is a mustsee for anyone with a sweet tooth. Despite its prominence, the prices are not too bad, so no excuses; enjoy the sweets and the regal décor, and poke around the museum beneath the main part of the store for a glimpse into its imperial history.QB‑2, Kohlmarkt 14, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 53 51 71 70, www.demel.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

CAFÉS AMACORD The cosy Amacord café near the Naschmarkt has heaps of character, vaulted ceilings, a daily changing weekday lunch special, Austrian and Mediterranean dinner options, and interesting range of wines and a lively atmosphere. Try the house speciality, the veal goulash.QA‑3, Rechte Wienzeile 15, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 587 47 09, www.amacordcafe.at. Open 10:00-01:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. B CUADRO A hip café with the culinary offerings of an American diner, Cuadro occupies one of the corners of the Schloßquadrat, a historic complex with sunny interior courtyard in Vienna’s fifth district. With friendly staff, breakfast served until 16:00, a savoury house coffee roast, happy hour specials, free wifi and comfortable, modern design, Cuadro is ideal for both casual dates and hangover breakfasts.QG‑4, Margaretenstrasse 77, MPilgramgasse, tel. +43 1 544 75 50, www.schlossquadr.at. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.

PHIL Phil is one of those places you can’t put into any conventional category even though you like it from the first moment. All you need to know is that it’s a cool café-cumbookshop where you can browse some books while having your coffee or a quick lunch. It’s also a nice place to meet friends - even if you stay the whole day, they sure won’t kick you out. Oh, and you can even buy vintage furniture here.

You got it right - the furniture you are sitting on!QA‑3, Gumpendorferstrasse 10-12, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 581 04 89, www.phil.info. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 01:00.

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Restaurants

Das Schick | © Schick Hotels

Vienna’s cosmopolitan character is reflected by a great range of fine international restaurants. No matter if you are looking for an exclusive restaurant in the first district or you want to stop by at one of the authentic Asian eateries - Vienna offers something for every taste. And the good news: compared to other European cities typical tourist traps are relatively rare.

AUSTRIAN Viennese cuisine stands out for its superb cakes and pastries, but a wide range of other unique dishes, like Wiener Schnitzel and Tafelspitz are also steeped in local history. The cooking tradition here has been inspired by many cultures throughout the centuries. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Italian and French cuisine made their way into the Viennese palate, followed by strong Bohemian and Hungarian influences in the 19th century, creating a local cuisine both unique and delicious.

BEIM CZAAK A place that knows its Austrian dishes, Beim Czaak has been a family business since 1928 and the attention to detail and tradition is evident from the moment you walk in. If you are planning on dining in this authentically rustic and relaxed restaurant, make a reservation before you go.QH‑2, Postgasse 15, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 513 72 15, www.czaak.com. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Sun. G

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App 22 Vienna In Your Pocket

BETTELSTUDENT Summer or winter, early or late, this is a fine establishment for those who like excellent food and cosy surroundings. The lunch menu changes every day, which lets the gastronomic geniuses in the kitchen show off their talents. Bettelstudent is also known for its beer, which it brews on site. Between the food and the beer, this may very well become a staple during your stay here.QB‑3, Johannesgasse 12, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 513 20 44, www.bettelstudent. at. Open 11:00-02:00; Sun 10:00-00:00; Sat 11:00-03:00.

DER PFARRWIRT The medieval building housing Vienna’s oldest restaurant, 5km north of the centre, is worth a visit alone. Dating from 1180 it’s fantastically preserved and has wonderful decorations and extensions from later centuries, like the gorgeous wooden veranda. The perfect place for simple, delicious Viennese and regional cuisine.QPfarrplatz 5, MHeiligenstadt, tel. +43 1 370 73 73, www.pfarrwirt. com. Open 12:00-24:00.

DURCHHAUS One of the best restaurants to open in Vienna this year.

Using local and sustainable produce this elegantly set venue (in a long, shaded courtyard) offers a superb range of Austrian food, including a fine selection of vegetarian dishes. Besides the classics on the main menu (very good schnitzel and backhendl) look out for the seasonal specials too. Service is smart and friendly and the experience of eating here rather splendid. Worth your time and money.

QG‑3, Neustiftgasse 16, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1 526 94 48, www.durchhaus.at. Open 17:00-24:00; closed Sun, Mon. P­B­W vienna.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants FIGLMÜLLER The history of Vienna’s most famous schnitzel began in 1905, when Johann Figlmüller founded a small tavern behind the cathedral. Right from the start, the schnitzel was what it still is today: a bit bigger, a bit thinner and a bit crisper than the others, and served with the classic potato salad side dish. Figlmüller is still a lovingly run family business. Also just around the corner at Bäckerstrasse 6. Schnitzel paradise.QB‑2, Wollzeile 5, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 61 77, www.figlmueller.at. G­T FIGLS There is something irrepressibly classy about Figls, a modern beer house and restaurant in stylish Grinzing.

Viennese classics are at their finest here in sumptuous surroundings, and the whole experience is washed down with crisp beer from a fantastic beer list. Culture, tradition, quality, taste, in one marvellous spot.QGrinzingerstrasse 55, tel. +43 1 320 42 57, www.figls.at. Open 11:3000:00.

LUGECK Enjoy an urban interpretation of the traditional Viennese Wirtshaus, or tavern, in a fantastic old building on a charming square in central Vienna. Besides the classic Wiener Schnitzel, traditional Austrian recipes have been given a modern twist and are accompanied by excellent regional wines, craft beers and handmade organic sodas.

QB‑2, Lugeck 4, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 50 60, www.lugeck.com. Open 11:30-24:00.

PALMENHAUS Once a greenhouse, this magnificent Art Nouveau building now houses one of Vienna’s most beloved, legendary cafés and restaurants. Enjoy an exciting selection of wines (many available by the glass) and delicious food, either outside with a view of the Burggarten or inside below the brilliant high ceilings.

Open from mid-morning you can take a late breakfast here as well as lunch and dinner, and the food places real emphasis on healthy, organic eating. Exotic plants of many descriptions provide a connection to the building’s past.QA‑2, Burggarten 1, MKarlsplatz + Burgring, tel. +43 1 533 10 33, www.palmenhaus.at. Open 10:0024:00; Sun 09:00-23:00; Sat 09:00-24:00.

PLACHUTTA Though particularly famous for its beef dishes, Plachutta has become a bastion for a range of traditional Viennese food. Forgoing current culinary trends, the chefs here focus on the simple, customary dishes of this former imperial capital - particularly their famous Tafelspitz (boiled high-quality beef ). While the food is deliciously simple, the prices are on the expensive side.QC‑2, Wollzeile 38, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 512 15 77, www.plachutta.at. Open 11:3024:00. A­P­G­T facebook.com/InYourPocket

AUSTRIAN SPECIALITIES Apfelstrudel

Beuschel Butterschnitzel Eiernockerln Frankfurter, Käsekrainer, Debreziner, Burenwurst Gebackene Leber Germknödel Gulasch Kaiserschmarrn Marillenknödel Palatschinken Powidl Rindsuppen Sachertorte Schinkenfleckerl Schweinsbraten Selchfleisch Tafelspitz Topfenstrudel Wiener Schnitzel Zwiebelrostbraten

apple-filled pastry a ragout containing veal lungs and heart chopped veal cutlet egg dumplings different kinds of sausages

deepfried pork or calf's liver yeast dumpling a hotpot similar to Hungarian pörkölt sugared pancake with stewed plums apricot dumplings Viennese crępes stewed plum jam beef soup a chocolate cake pasta with ham roast pork smoked meat boiled beef, often served with apple and horseradish sauces strudel filled with cottage cheese breadcrumbed and fried veal cutlet onion roast beef

We’ll take two, please…

© Österreich Werbung/Wiesenhofer

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

I Fireplace

E Live music

O Casino

M Nearest metro station

B Outside seating

G Non-smoking areas

S Take away

R Internet W Wi-Fi

6 Animal friendly

L Guarded parking March – April 2020

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Restaurants REINTHALERS BEISL Typical Austrian food at relatively low prices. The wait staff is friendly, though at times stressed with all of the clientele, but don’t let that distract you from the above average food served here.QB‑2, Dorotheergasse 2-4, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 513 12 49, www. reinthalersbeisl.stadtausstellung.at. Open 11:00-23:00.

G RESTAURANT STEFANIE Fine dining in truly charming Viennese atmosphere. The restaurant impresses with seasonal delicacies and Viennese classics cooked to perfection. Try the seven-course ‘taste of imperial Vienna’ menu for an excellent introduction to local gourmet cuisine. The elegant ballroom with high ceilings, massive chandeliers and classic decoration confirm this is Viennese history the culinary way.QC‑1, Taborstrasse 12, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 21150423, www. restaurant-stefanie.at. Open 12:00-14:30,18:00-22:00; Sun, Sat 18:00-22:00. Also open for Sunday brunch OctMay. P­T­B­W SILBERWIRT The Silberwirt inn has been serving schnitzels, pub food, snacks and Margaretner beer for over 200 years, earning it the coveted title of “beisl”, a traditional Viennese restaurant. Despite its age, it’s as lively as ever with students, office workers, artists and tourists piling in to try the affordable food and drinks. In summer the garden is an excellent place to recover from a day in townQSchloßgasse 21, MPilgramgasse, tel. +43 1 544 49 07, www.silberwirt.at. Open 12:00-24:00.

A­G WIENER WIRTSCHAFT Rustic and genuine are the guiding themes of the typical inn Wiener Wirtschaft. At this tavern a wide range of rustic Viennese dishes awaits your taste buds. Besides classics like Wiener Schnitzel or goulash, creative seasonal interpretations of the local cuisine can also be found on the menu. Kitchen until 22:00.QA‑4, Wiedner Hauptstrasse 27-29, MTaubstummengasse, tel. +43 1 22 11 13 64, www.wienerwirtschaft.com. Mon - Sat 11:30 - 23:00, Sun 11:30 - 15:00. Kitchen open Mon - Sat 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed July 29 – August 26, 2018. G­T­ B­6­W ZUM WEISSEN RAUCHFANGKEHRER One of the oldest and most renowned restaurants in town, the ‘white chimney-sweep’ was founded in 1848 as one of the guild pubs of the old Vienna chimneysweeps.

The typical atmosphere originates from the 1920s when actors, singers, painter and sculptors discovered it. The restaurant serves classic Viennese kitchen, with Tafelspitz, Szegediner Gulasch, paprika chicken and Kalbsvogerln.

QB‑2, Weihburggasse 4, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 34 71, www.weisser-rauchfangkehrer.at. Open 12:00-24:00. G 24 Vienna In Your Pocket

AMERICAN BURGER BROS There are three of these great burger bars in Vienna, and they are well worth seeking out. The venues are modern and contemporary and the burgers themselves are fresh, handmade from the finest ground beef (there are chicken and veggie options too). You can also feast on some superb ribs, hot-dogs and top salads. It’s a little bit of America in Vienna, and a cut above just about every other burger joint in the city.QSeitenstettengasse 1–3, MSchwedenplatz, www.burgerbros.at. Open 17:00-00:00; closed Sun, Mon. EL GAUCHO Delicious steaks, soups and specials, served in a cosy, modern restaurant. Apart from the classic Black Angus rumpsteaks, ribeye and surf & turf, there’s lobster, chicken curry and lambchops to savour. A good selection of sides, sauces and salads rounds off the menu - and should guarantee a great lunch or dinner. Kitchen open until 23:00.QC‑1, Praterstr. 1, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 212 12 10, www.elgaucho.at. Open 11:30-01:00; closed Sun. RIBS OF VIENNA Sometimes that primal urge to grab your food and sink your teeth in takes hold, and you just have to abandon the fork and the knife. Housed in a cellar dating from the 16th century, the orange and white clad staff will serve a steaming heap of ribs. The restaurant´s speciality is a metre of ribs, but they also have excellent salads.QB‑2, Weihburggasse 22, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 513 85 19, www.ribsofvienna.at. Open 17:00-24:00. P­G STEAKPOINT The Viennese make a lot of great food, but they are not well known for their steaks - enter Steakpoint. Filet, rib eye, T-bone, prime rib: you name it, they’ve got it, and will make your steak exactly how you want it. The décor is reminiscent of an upscale roadhouse restaurant.QB‑3, Akademiestrasse 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 513 80 40, www.members.aon.at/steakpoint. Open 11:00-24:00; Sun 17:00-24:00. A­G TGI FRIDAYS You can’t really beat a good TGI Fridays. The American restaurant chain has become a major favourite all over Europe, as much because of its huge portions as its casual atmosphere and convivial charm. There’s no point offering big portions of nonsense of course, and the food at TGI Fridays is consistently excellent. Add a keen understanding of value, great cocktails and some of the friendliest staff going, not to mention some of the finest flair bartending in Vienna, and you’ll see just why TGIs has become a staple of modern day dining. QB‑3, Schubertring 13, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 714 89 95, www.tgifridays.at.

Open 12:00-24:00. A­G vienna.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants WEINSCHENKE In the old Shultz bar, there are now burgers: 9 burgers (with meat, vegetarian and vegan), 12 sauces, all homemade (meat from Hödl is minced daily, bread is baked according to own recipes by Frühbauer, the fries are made of bio-dumplings from the Lobau); Salads (eg with smoked salmon or goat’s cheese). QSiebensterngasse 31/3, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 595353020, www.weinschenke-wien.com.

Open 11:00-02:00.

CHEF INTERVIEW What first inspired you to become a chef?

The feeling of freedom, creating new experiences for guests.

How long have you worked at Das Schick?

Since January 1, this year.

ASIAN DOTS This experimental sushi restaurant is a great place to grab a bite after a shopping spree. The ambience, like the food, is experimental, but the combination of lamps, lighting and tables leaves a satisfying taste in your mouth, as does the fresh fish. We recommend moving over to the similarly decorated bar after dinner to continue the experience.

QF‑3, Mariahilferstrasse 103, MZieglergasse, tel. +43 1 920 99 80, www.dots-lounge.com. Open 11:00-24:00; Sun 17:00-24:00.

MAMA LIU & SONS Mama Liu & Sons speciality is the hotpot, or Chinese fondue. Choose a soup and receive endless seafood, meats and veggies to toss in. The simple and modern décor makes this a fun place to try something a bit different than the usual Chinese, at a price that doesn’t break the bank.

QG‑3, Gumpendorferstr. 29, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 586 36 73, www.mamaliuandsons.at. Open 17:00-24:00.

ON A fascinating blend between contemporary Chinese cuisine and ultra-stylish interior, this popular restaurant is owned by famed Austrian TV chef Simon Xie Hong, and it has become the go-to place for young professionals.

The menu is dominated by fish, seafood and vegetarian dishes although traditional Chinese duck, chicken and lamb are also on offer. Excellent Austrian wine selection.

The less expensive daily menu is served until 18:00.QA‑4, Wehrgasse 8, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 585 49 00, www.restaurant-on.at. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:30.

RA’MIEN There are many restaurants that serve decent Asian cuisine, but few match Ra’miens combination of excellent dishes (try the home-made noodle soup) and reasonable prices.

In the evenings, the emphasis is on Thai dishes. Ra’mien is a great place to hang out with friends, and as a local favourite, you’ll also have a chance to chat with the locals.

Afterwards head downstairs for cocktails and dancing (see Clubs).QG‑3, Gumpendorferstr. 9, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 585 47 98, www.ramien.at. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Mon. facebook.com/InYourPocket

What is your philosophy in the kitchen?

I try to combine the main product with two others in order to get the best out of it, as well as finding different ways of presenting it.

© Schick Hotels

How do you develop new dishes? Where does the inspiration come from?

Inspiration largely comes from nature and the products we have to work with. We are always trying different combinations until we are sure that a dish represents our “taste”, and then we put it on the menu.

How has the culinary scene in Vienna changed in recent years?

People are now more open minded, thanks to the internet and travelling, and they are more free to taste different dishes. The quality of restaurants and the expectations of the guests is increasing every year.

Can you describe Austrian cuisine in five words?

Traditional, tasteful, regional, alternately, different.

What makes dining at Das Schick a unique experience?

Spending time in an elegant restaurant with surprising dishes and wine selection combined with the best view of Vienna.

What are three Austrian dishes that every visitor to Vienna should try?

Viennese Schnitzel, Tafelspitz, Kaiserschmarren, (or Roasted liver with apple) Any favourite late night snacks or fast food joints?

A beer with a sausage from any traditional sausage stand in Vienna.

How do you like to spend your days off in Vienna?

Any tips for our readers?

With my wife and my children, maybe combining a day in nature with a visit to a traditional wine tavern.

Gerasimos Kavalieris Chef at Restaurant “Das Schick” (p.24) March – April 2020

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Restaurants 5-course ‘Meistermenü’ is the definitive highlight; guests can compose their own dinner from several seasonal and regional options.QKärntner Ring 1, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 51 51 60, www.bristolvienna.com.

Open 07:30-24:00. A­P­G­L­J­K­i

Meierei im Stadtpark

© Wientourismus, Peter Rigaud

SAIGON This elegant Vietnamese restaurant near Karlsplatz can be a breath of fresh air after wandering through the hectic Naschmarkt or taking in the Secession museum, steps away. Saigon features a great list of set dishes, all served in a relaxed, green setting. Hot dishes served till 22:30.QH‑3, Getreidemarkt 7, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 585 63 95, www.saigon.at. Open 11:30-23:00. A­G­T SHANGHAI TAN The first thing you notice is the light. The hanging red ornamental lamps provide an atmosphere of intimacy that most restaurants can only dream of, creating an aura that engages from the get-go. The menu covers kilometres of Asian cuisine done properly, from faultless Japanese sushi through to excellent Chinese and Vietnamese options. There are also a good number of vegetarian and vegan dishes available. For a true taste of the Orient in an environment that backs that up and then some, Shanghai Tan is the place to go.QA‑3, Gumpendorferstr. 9, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 585 49 88, www.shanghaitan.at. Open 18:0001:00; closed Sun. A­G­T

BALKAN BEOGRAD Beograd has been serving Serbian food in this up-andcoming part of town for the past 50 years, and is one of the contributing factors to the area becoming an in-spot in Vienna. The décor is rustic, and the nightly live music adds to the ambience. The specialities are prepared on a charcoal grill.QG‑3, Schikanedergasse 7, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 587 74 44, www.restaurant-beograd.at. Open 11:30–02:00; closed Wed.

FINE DINING BRISTOL LOUNGE Recent renovations have revealed the fabulous original Art Deco decoration of the room that’s home to the new restaurant in the legendary 12-decadeold Hotel Bristol. Excellent breakfast, lunch and dinner meals are served in these grand surroundings. The 26 Vienna In Your Pocket

DAS SCHICK Austria and Spain share a common history and enjoy a special relationship. You can experience delicious Mediterranean specialities barely known outside Spain, exquisite service and breathtaking views of the Austrian capital at the new Das Schick restaurant. The restaurant that presents the best treats of both cuisines is acclaimed by the Gault & Millau, A la Carte and Falstaff restaurant guides.

QC‑2, Parkring 12, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 51480417, www.das-schick.at. Mon - Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22.30, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 22.30. July & August 18:00 - 22.30.

Kitchen open until 14:30, evenings until 22:00. A­P­ G­W DO & CO If you flew into town with Austrian Airlines, then you are already familiar with the first-class catering that Do & Co offers. Pop in to enjoy the immaculate design, the beautiful view of St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and chic food. Just know that portions are small and you shouldn’t arrive with a big appetite.QB‑2, Stephansplatz 12, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 535 39 69, www.doco.com. Open 12:0015:00;18:00-24:00. A­P­G STEIRERECK A fancy restaurant with typical Austrian cuisine, Steiereck can be found surrounded by greenery of the Stadtpark and has numerous delicious delicacies. Choose from a menu with five and six course meals, and an optional assortment of paired wines served with the courses.QC‑3, Am Heumarkt 2a, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 713 31 68, www.steirereck.at. Open 11:30-14:30; 18:30-24:00; closed Sun, Sat. A­P­G­B ZUM SCHWARZEN KAMEEL Venture into this exquisite restaurant and bar, and you could see your picture in the local tabloids the next day.

The ‘Black Camel’ has been the place for Vienna’s rich and famous to be seen ever since it opened in 1618, and even today it’s the official caterer to the Austrian president. Watch the well-dressed beau-monde enjoy a refined conversation over a glass of wine at the bar, and make sure to check out the posh deli and pastry shops just a few steps down the street.QB‑2, Bognergasse 5, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 533 81 25, www.kameel.at.

Open 12:00-15:30;18:00-24:00; closed Sun. Bar open from 09:00.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App vienna.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants FRENCH BEAULIEU Hidden in a luxury shopping arcade, this authentic French bistro has earned praises by Vienna’s French expat community and food aficionados. The usual suspects, such as delicious salads, baguettes, quiches, scrupulously prepared mains as well as lavish desserts and an impressive wine list are served by French-speaking staff. And in case you long for more French fare to take home, there’s a deli selling cheese, chocolate, wine and many other things.

Reservations recommended.QHerrengasse 14/18, Ferstel Passage, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 532 11 03, www. beaulieu-wien.at. Open 10:00-23:00; closed Sun. A­G LE BOL This small restaurant is a must for anyone who enjoys French food, whether you need a good start in the morning or a tasty lunch. The baguettes in particular should not be missed: our favourite is the Joan de Florette, but you will be satisfied with any of their options. Le Bol is always full, so make a reservation.QB‑2, Neuer Markt 14, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 699 103 018 99, www.lebol. at. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-24:00.

HUNGARIAN ILONA STUEBERL Maria Fodor, the owner since 1987, takes pride in serving the best gulyas this side of the border. The chicken paprikas is also delicious. Be sure to leave some space for heavenly somlói galuska, a layered chocolate and vanilla sponge cake with raisins, walnuts and rum. Note that smoking is allowed here.QB‑2, Bräunerstrasse 2, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 533 90 29, www.ilonastueberl.at. Open 11:30-23:00.

GASTROBARS There’s no good English term for Viennese Bierlokale; these are casual restaurants that offer a good range of beers and drinks as well as quality food.

BRASSERIE STADTBODEN Near the Opera, the Stadtboden restaurant and pub is a great spot for Austrian and international cuisine, including late breakfasts, Flammkuchen pies, sausages, steak and burgers.

The Art Deco style room is centred around an elegant bar which has a variety of local Ottakringer beer on tap. Drop by on Thursdays for live DJ music; important football matches and other sports events are beamed onto screens.QB‑3, Krugerstraße 8, tel. +43 1 512 16 37, www.stadtboden.at.

Open 10:00-24:00; closed Sun. A­J­W­K

INTERNATIONAL DAS KOLIN Lovely cafe and restaurant serving a wide range of great food at prices which, given the excellent central location, are more than reasonable. The interior is contemporary facebook.com/InYourPocket

without overdoing it, and there’s an elegant street terrace in good weather. The menu (which also offers one of the best breakfast menus in all Vienna) is based around Modern European cuisine and includes a regularly changing list of seasonal specials alongside staples such as the legendary Kolin burger.QG‑1, Kolingasse 5, MSchottentor, tel. +43 1 8900 221, www.daskolin.at. Open 11:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-24:00; closed Sun. P­B­S­W­i DAS LOFT On the 18th floor of the Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom, the glass-walled Restaurant & Bar Das LOFT offers amazing 360° views over the city. German chef Fabian Günzel cooks up modern, cosmopolitan dishes inspired by tastes from across the world, but rooted in regional ingredients. Visit at weekends to see the DJs in action!QC‑1, Praterstrasse 1, MM Schwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 90 616 8110, www. dasloftwien.at. Open 18:00-22:30. P HEUER This place, in the very heart of Vienna, sources all of its ingredients from over thirty different small farmers and specialists, thereby supporting the region and ensuring quality. Chef Peter Fallnbugl works with carefully chosen products using traditional preservation methods and stores them for pickling on the restaurant’s own shelving units: a variety of homemade juices, syrups, compotes, preserved lemons and pickles can be found here. Much of it is harvested from the wild. Our pick of the menu is the beef tartar from Austrian veal (Hödl) with brûléed egg yolk, mustard leaf and redvein dock, dandelion-dijon creme, slices of yellow-gold salt-buttered toast from the in-house bakery. Prices are amazing given the superb location. Long evenings in the garden here are Vienna musts!QB‑3, Treitlstrasse 2, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 8900590, www. heuer-amkarlsplatz.com. Open 11:00-02:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-02:00.

MEDUSA Opened by entrepreneurs from neighbouring Slovakia, this chic establishment offers mouthwatering international dishes that are pleasing both to the eyes and to the palate.

Enjoy imaginative appetizers such as tuna fish with papaya cashew salad or innovative mains, such as flank-steak with truffle potatoes. There are also wonderfully mixed cocktails, and from October you can dance the night away in the new club.QNeuer Markt 8, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 67 66 05 72 86, www.medusarestaurant.at. Open 10:00-23:30.

A­G­B­J MOTTO AM FLUSS All aboard Vienna’s top spot to see and be seen. You can spend all day sipping fresh coffee, trying the delicious baked goods or devouring the tantalizing meals on the menu. What’s more, the DJ line up keeps the party hopping long into the night. An excellent place for chill cats and party goers alike.QC‑1, Franz Josefs Kai 2, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 252 55 10, www.motto.at/ mottoamfluss. Open 08:00-02:00.

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Restaurants PIZZA MARI Located just a block from the vibrant Karmelitenmarkt, this modern pizzeria spoils guests with authentic pizzas whose ingredients are flown in from Naples. Especially the traditional marinara and marguerita are out of this world. The waiters are at times a bit pretentious, but for most clients what they eat seems to matter more than who serves them. Reservations recommended.QH‑1, Leopoldsgasse 23A, MTaborstrasse, tel. +43 676 687 49 94, www.pizzamari.at. Open 12:0014:30,18:00-23:00; Sun 17:00-22:00; closed Mon.

Parlor

© InterContinental Wien

PARLOR The restaurant at the Vienna InterContinental uses the motto ‘classic with a twist’ for its styling, breakfasts and dinners – and there’s much to be enjoyed in this brightly coloured space. Viennese and Austrian options are matched with international dishes from around the world and the breakfast buffet (open for non-guests too) has more than you’d expect – including Japanese snacks and excellent teas. Don’t hesitate to bring the kids as well – Parlor has a joyous children’s menu.QC‑3, Johannesgasse 28, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 71 12 21 10, www.vienna. intercontinental.com/gastronomie. Open 17:30-23:00.

SCHLOSSQUADRAT Four venues in one in historic Alt-Margareten. Each offers something special; Cuadro is a relaxed café with a great breakfast; Margareta is an inviting Italian trattoria that offers delicious pizza; Silberwirt has been serving Viennese cuisine for more than 200 years and knows its craft; and Gergely’s is an upmarket restaurant. All four also have beautiful courtyards.

QG‑4, Margaretenplatz 2, MPilgramgasse, tel. +43 1 544 49 07, www.schlossquadr.at. Open 08:00-24:00. B SPEAR Popular among the young and elegant neighborhood crowd, this small and stylish establishment features a stateof-the-art interior that matches its contemporary cuisine concept. Chef Dan Vainberg skillfully concocts the house specialty dishes: small pieces of meat, fish or vegetables served on a skewer and sticky rice burger. Great cocktails are served in the bar until late.QF‑3, Neubaugasse 15, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 67 67 11 86 71, www.spear.at.

Open 15:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-24:00.

ITALIAN DA CAPO Da Capo spoils its guests with exquisite Italian cuisine served in an inviting setting, great for a romantic evening or a fun family night. There’s homemade pasta, fresh seafood and friendly staff who can help you choose the right wine to complete your meal. We really like the pizzas baked in the wood-fired oven.

QB‑2, Schulerstr. 18, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 44 91, www.dacapo.co.at. Open 11:30-23:45. A­B 28 Vienna In Your Pocket

DA FERDINANDO If you’re looking for an authentic slice of Neapolitan pizza in Vienna then look no further than Da Ferdinando, with some of the best Italian food in town waiting to be devoured at this at this delightful restaurant next to Schönbrunn Palace and the Tiergarten. A charming ambience and convivial service compliment the excellent food, while the outdoor area is one of the city’s most pleasant, especially when enjoyed alongside a crisp glass of wine (or two). Keep an eye out for the lunchtime specials if you’re eating on a budget.QHietzinger Hauptstr. 26, tel. +43 1 877 80 36, www.daferdinando.at. Open 11:00-23:00.

IL SESTANTE This simple Italian trattoria in the middle of Vienna’s posh 8th district offers authentic thin-crusted brick-oven pizzas, yummy fresh salads and excellent pasta dishes. The place seems to be immensely popular among local families, no less so thanks to friendly staff (and we do mean it!). Be sure to make a reservation if you plan to eat after 19:00, and try the fantastic fettuccine gamberetti con zucchini.

QF‑2, Piaristengasse 50, MRathaus, tel. +43 1 402 98 94, www.sestante.at. Open 11:30-23:30.

LA MIA A proper, no-nonsense Italian restaurant serving authentic Neapolitan pizza and delicious Italian meat, fish and seafood dishes. All of the produce (hams, cheeses and such like) is the real deal, imported from Italy, while the pasta is all homemade.

The staff are amazingly friendly given how busy they often are, and the location is fantastic, especially the tables in the courtyard which are perfect when the weather allows. The children’s menu is a bonus (such things can be hard to find in the city centre).

Good selection of wine too.QF‑2, Lerchenfelder Strasse 13, MRathaus, tel. +43 1 522 42 21, www.lamia.at. Open 11:3014:30, 18:00-22:30. Fri, Sat, Sun 11:30-22:30. P­T­B­W SOLE Located on a narrow city centre street, this establishment is so veritably Italian you’d think you’ve just entered a Roman trattoria. The delicious authentic fare explains why this place attracts many faithful locals and has become a venue for visiting opera stars, such as Placido Domingo, whose pictures with the owner are proudly exhibited inside. The perfectly-baked pizzas and fresh pastas are just out of this world, as are the meat and fish dishes and the desserts. Reservations recommended.

QAnnagasse 6-8, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 513 40 77, www. ristorante-sole.at. Open 11:30-23:00. G­B­J vienna.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants JAPANESE KUISHIMBO Owned by an extremely friendly Japanese family, Kuishimbo serves what many believe is the most authentic Japanese fare in town - delicious noodle soups, sushi and sashimi sets, and savoury pancakes called okonomiyaki... all that in the space of 2x4 metres, More places like this, please.

QG‑3, Linke Wienzeile 40, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 699 171 923 55.

UNKAI Classic Japanese restaurant and sushi bar on the 7th floor of the Grand Hotel Wien, with traditional dishes, fresh fish sushi and an impressive culinary show at the Teppanyaki table. Book one of the tatami rooms with a view of the zen garden for meals served by waitresses in kimono.QB‑3, Kärntner Ring 9 (Grand Hotel Wien), MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 515 80 91 10, www.unkai.at. Open 12:0014:30,18:00-22:45; Mon 18:00-22:45.

LATINO MERCADO South America comes to your plate in Vienna at this cosy Latino restaurant. With dishes from across the continent some menus served as sharing packages for up to 6 people - there’s something for everyone here, whether you like it creamy or superspicy. Try the fish of the day, some chipotle polenta, black beans with avocado or fried chili-mint cheeseballs.QC‑2, Stubenring 18, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 512 25 05, www.mercado.at. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 17:00-22:00; Sat 17:00-23:00.

LEBANESE AL FAYROOZ Enjoy Oriental dinner, drinks, dance and hookah pipes at this basement oasis, decked out like a silk route traders’ tent. Tuck in to a fantastic range of Lebanese mazza starters, including humus, stuffed wine leaves, olives and sheep’s cheese, followed by meat, fish or other dishes from the charcoal grill. There’s live music, cocktails and some very lively belly dancing (€10 per person extra) at weekend nights.QA‑1, Universitätsring 8, tel. +43 1 533 84 11, www.alfayrooz.eu. Open 12:00-24:00; Sun 17:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-04:00.

MEDITERRANEAN FABIOS Fabios is a wonderful excuse to hang out: with a great terrace and a cool window design, be prepared to watch and be watched. The menu has several options for a delicious Mediterranean five-course meal, so you can dine with the in-crowd.QB‑2, Tuchlauben 6, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 532 22 22, www.fabios.at. Open 10:00–01:00; closed Sun. A­P ­G facebook.com/InYourPocket

AUTHENTIC NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

www.daferdinando.at Mon-Sun 11:00am-11:00pm Tel. +43 1 8778036 March – April 2020

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Restaurants MEXICAN

PORTUGUESE

SANTOS Santos, one of the few Mexican restaurants in town, is more than just a restaurant: it is a culinary and design adventure.

The vibrant colours create an eye-catching backdrop, the perfect setting for the delicious meals. The food is traditional, and the Sunday brunch is an excellent option.

QF‑3, Siebensterngasse 14, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1 944 33 06, www.santos-bar.com. Open 16:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-02:00.

LISBOA LOUNGE A modern and bright restaurant near to the Naschmarkt, serving the best of Portuguese cuisine, from pestisco snacks of local cheeses and Iberian ham to steak in garlic and fresh seafood dishes – all accompanied by Port wine. You can also just drop by for a coffee and a Pastel de Nata pastry sprinkled with cinnamon.QG‑3, Mühlgasse 20, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 967 00 61, www.lisboalounge.at. Open 12:00-24:00; closed Sun.

ORIENTAL MASCHU MASCHU Falafel, hummus, techina, pita, limonana and other oriental delicacies can be enjoyed at Maschu Maschu - including the best falafel in town. With a colourful interior, soft light and smiling people it’s a family-friendly place with a big non-smoking area. Drop by on weekdays for daily lunch dishes and variations of seasonal oriental meals.QF‑3, Neubaugasse 20, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 990 47 13, www.maschu-maschu.at. Open 10:30-24:00.

PAKISTANI WIENER DEEWAN This is assuredly the only restaurant of its kind in Vienna.

Help yourself to five Pakistani specialities from the buffet as well as salads and desserts, eat as much as you like and then pay as you wish. The mango lassi is worth trying, but unlike the buffet, drinks have fixed prices. As it´s near the university, Deewan is a favourite among students. After your meal, relax in the chill-out section downstairs.QA‑1, Liechtensteinstrasse 10, MSchottentor, tel. +43 1 925 11 85, www.deewan.at. Open 11:00-23:00; closed Sun.

PERSIAN PARS Step back in time into the rich history of the Persian empire; Pars tempts you with fair prices and a different menu every day in a restaurant whose decoration relies heavily on the prowess of Persian architects.QF‑2, Lerchenfelderstrasse 148, MThaliastrasse, tel. +43 1 405 82 45, www.pars.at.

Open 11:00-24:00; closed Sun.

PERUVIAN SALONGA A cosy and unique Peruvian restaurant with authentic food including the well-known cevichito de pescado (marinated raw salmon in lime juice with sweet potato and chili). However, don’t miss the excellent cocktails and the best Pisco Sour in town. Visit every day for live tango, bossa nova and other music.QFlorianigasse 17, tel. +43 1 961 92 46, www.salonga-peruvianbar.com. Open 11:0015:00;17:00-24:00; Thu, Fri 11:00-15:00;17:00-02:00; Sat 17:00-02:00; closed Sun. 30 Vienna In Your Pocket

THAI BANGKOK VIENNA Call us snobs, we’ve accepted the fact that the real Thai food we crave for can probably not be found anywhere in Vienna. Yet we applaud the effort of this restaurant near Naschmarkt. The service is extremely friendly, and the omnipresent images of Buddha combined with soothing Thai music create the right setting. The pad thai was delicious and good value. Sadly, smoke pervades even in the non-smoking section.QG‑3, Joanelligasse 8, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 587 05 93, www. bangkok-vienna.at. Open 12:30-15:00, 17:30-22:30; closed Mon. PATARA This luxury Thai restaurant with branches in Bangkok, London, Geneva and Singapore is certainly one of the best in town, with according prices. From the table settings to its location and the good modern Thai food, this local favourite exudes class.QB‑2, Petersplatz 1, MM Stephansplatz, tel. +43 1 997 19 38 0, www.patara-vienna.at. Open 12:00-15:00;17:30-23:00; Sun 17:30-23:00. A­P­G SIAM Traditional decorations, portraits of the royal family on the walls, and silk tablecloth all add a nice touch to this place.

The extensive food selection is but a tad different from the real Bangkok cuisine, and yet, for lack of better affordable options here in Vienna, we’ll give them credit for trying.

QB‑3, Bösendorferstrasse 2-4, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 505 38 46, www.siam-vienna.at. Open 11:30-15:00, 17:30-24:00; Sat 17:30-24:00.

VEGETARIAN DANCING SHIVA SUPERFOODS From supersmoothies and delicious desserts to international dishes like wraps, currys and stews - visit Dancing Shiva Superfoods and discover the world of raw food. An atmospheric, colourful restaurant serving organic and vegan specialities of the raw food kitchen, combined with Superfoods. Has an incorporated superfood store (open 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-18:00, closed Sun) and offers regular workshops, lectures, live music, yoga and vienna.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants meditation events. Saturday brunch 10:00-15:00 every week.QF‑3, Neubaugasse 58, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 524 78 43, www.dancingshiva.at. Open 11:00-21:00; closed Sun, Mon, Tue, Wed. Note that the kitchen closes at 20:00.

QUICK BITES

SWING KITCHEN Burgers, but different - at Swing Kitchen all food is 100% vegan, and very tasty indeed. Besides the regular, cheese and Vienna burgers, there’s wraps, salads, fries, muffins and healthy drinks.QSchottenfeldgasse 3, MZieglergasse, www.swingkitchen.com. Open 11:00-22:00.

TIAN High-quality vegetarian and vegan dishes, awarded with a Michelin star, served in a stylish, white restaurant.

Whether you have a meal at lunchtime or in the evening, you can choose and combine balanced set menus that can be complemented with suitable wines. Healthy, tasty and adventurous.QB‑2, Himmelpfortgasse 23, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 890 46 65, www.taste-tian. com. Open 12:00-24:00; closed Sun, Mon. Winebar open 17:00-24:00.

VEGETASIA A vegetarian Taiwanese restaurant with a tradition of excellent dishes. The long, narrow room provides a relaxed atmosphere that is worth the trip to this part of town, which is admittedly well off the beaten path.QI‑3, Ungargasse 57, MTram Stop: Neulinggasse/Ungargasse, tel. +43 1 713 83 32, www.vegetasia.at. Open 11.30-15.00-17.3022.30; closed Mon. WRENKH Owned by Christian Wrenkh and his two sons, this upmarket culinary paradise is ample proof that vegetarian cuisine can be anything but boring. Their vision and inventiveness never cease to amaze. Virtually anything on the menu - soups, salads, mains, desserts - will be perfectly made to order and delivered with a smile.

Truth is, at least one of their dishes does contain meat - a superb organic filet steak. But don’t we all show carnivore instincts on occasion? Dinner reservations essential.

QB‑2, Bauernmarkt 10, MStephansplatz, tel. + 43 1 533 15 26, www.wrenkh-wien.at. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Sun. YAMM! Conveniently located opposite the university’s main building, this cool lounge with psychedelic interior offers exclusive organic and vegan dishes, including wholesome salads, warm platters, healthy desserts, and perfect cocktails to wash down your food. Pick up a plate, fill it up with goodies from the salad bar and pay by weight.

Groovy music in the evenings attracts many students and young professionals here.QA‑1, Dr. Karl-Lueger-Ring 10, MSchottentor, tel. +43 1 532 05 44, www.yamm.at.

Open 08:00-23:00; Thu, Fri 08:00-01:00; Sat 09:00-01:00; closed Sun. facebook.com/InYourPocket

Fast food and flavour in the city

BITZINGER WÜRSTELSTAND There are countless Würstelstände (hot dog stands), but the Bitzinger Würstelstand stands out because of its modern design: it looks more like a fine dining establishment than a simple street vendor. Unlike others, Bitzinger also has beer on tap and a small daily menu. It’s only a short walk away from the Burggarten, so you can down your cold beer and sausage while enjoying the parkQB‑3, Augustinerplatz 1, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 533 10 26, www.bitzinger.at. Open 10:00-05:00.

BLUEORANGE Attention bagel lovers: this is your spot! But if bagels aren’t your favourite, there’s plenty of other things to choose from on the menu, including many specials.

With the added bonus of free wireless internet, many stay for an extra coffee or cave in for some Ben & Jerry’s ice cream.QG‑3, Margaretenstr. 9, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 581 17 70, www.blueorange.co.at. Open 07:30-22:00; Sun, Sat 09:00-21:00.

GORILLA KITCHEN There’s no need to go hungry after visiting Karlsplatz and the Belvedere - the mouthwateringly good burritos at the new Gorilla Kitchen street food restaurant will satisfy all tastes. The burritos come in beef, pork, chicken, vegetarian and vegan guises – and even as a bowl for messy eaters.

Try the Guinness beef burrito, with beans and beer gravy, or the pulled pork burrito. Vegans shouldn’t miss out on the oyster mushroom, avocado, rocket sandwich – all served in a pleasant, minimalist setting with cool music and enough seating for spontaneous visitors.

QGußhausstraße 19, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 66 08 36 34 27, www.facebook.com/gorillakitchenvienna.

Open 11:30-22:00; closed Sun. TÜRKIS Skip the international fast food options while shopping on Mariahilferstrasse and head straight to Türkis instead.

Kebab stands that sell lamb rather than chicken kebabs are not very numerous in Vienna, but Türkis steps in to save the day with its overstuffed authentic lamb pita pockets, or one or several other Turkish specialities. Try the spicy sauce, too.QG‑3, Mariahilferstr. 31, MMuseumsquartier, www.tuerkis.at. Open 10:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-02:00.

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Nightlife

Think the fun ends with the setting sun? Think again… | © Rudy Balasko

Of all the wonderful things that Vienna has to offer, nightlife is not the least of them. There is something for everyone in this town, and we mean everyone. From trendy bars to Irish pubs, lounge clubs and underground locations, offering all kinds of nocturnal fun you might be looking for.

BARS BARFLY’S CLUB This self-proclaimed ‘American bar with soul’ is perfect for cocktail and whiskey lovers; there’s no other place in Vienna that will bring you as much satisfaction. Look no further than the extensive cocktail list (over 350 varieties) to realise the league this bar is in. Eat before you arrive, because toast is the only food they offer.QE‑4, Esterhazygasse 33, MZieglergasse, tel. +43 1 586 08 25, www.barflys.at. Open 18:00-02:00; Sun 20:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00.

CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR & RESTAURANT There is something refreshingly comfortable about a good sports bar. We love good food almost as much as we love good times — we love good sport better than both. Put all of that into one hat and you get a quite marvellous night out at Champions Sports Bar and Restaurant, recently reopened in the Vienna Marriott Hotel. 13 beers on tap, live sport from all over the world and more burgers than you can deal with. What’s not to like?QC‑3, Parkring 12a, MStubentor, tel. +43 (0)1 515 18 89 01, www.champions.at. Open 12:00-00:00; Sat, Sun 13:00-00:00.

32 Vienna In Your Pocket

DONAU Located in a former synagogue, this bar has seen better and worse times since it appeared on the social radar in the 1980s. If you enjoy minimal techno and chill-out beats as background music, Donau is your place. It’s in a location close to the Museumsquartier, which makes it a favourite among students and young creative professionals. The prices are reasonable and the cathedral-like environment is worth a visit.QG‑3, Karl Schweighofer Gasse 10, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 523 81 05, www.donautechno.com. Open 20:00-04:00; Sun 20:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 20:00-06:00.

HAMMOND BAR This cocktail bar is located away from the city centre, and with a quiet atmosphere and dimmed lighting, it’s perfect for visitors who want to quietly sip their whiskey or champagne with their friends. The prices are relatively high, but the quality of the drinks means that you are getting your money’s worth.QH‑1, Taborstrasse 33, MTaborstrasse, tel. +43 1 968 92 15, www.hammondbar.at. Open 17:00–03:00; Sun 19:00-02:00; Sat 19:00-04:00.

KLEINOD One of the most chic, exclusive cocktail bars in the city becomes and even better place to hang out during the summer, when it opens its magnificent roof terrace. Always packed with Vienna’s best-looking people it’s far from cheap but that’s just how the crowd who come here like it. Besides, this is just about the best bar in the city, and the best is never cheap. We love it.QSingerstrasse 7, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 03 25, www.kleinod. wien. Open 15:30-04:00; Sun 17:00-02:00. vienna.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife LOOS BAR Designed by famous architect Adolf Loos in 1908, this bar’s design is definitely in accordance with one of Loos’ driving principles: cosiness. A tiny space, made to look larger than it is by the mirrors mounted along the walls above the wooden panelling, has only a handful of tables so be prepared to share with strangers. The beer selection is weak and overpriced, but the cocktails are top-notch. Quentin Tarantino apparently had a blast here.QB‑2, Kärntner Durchgang 10, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 32 83, www.loosbar.at.

Open 12:00-04:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-05:00.

LUSTER BAR In a historic building which dates from 1902, and the last days of Imperial Vienna, this amazing bar is a design sensation.

The moment you walk in the bar will grab your attention, all metal and glass set in a space dominated by open brickwork.

The atmosphere is hip, young and successful: this is where some of the top Vienna style-leaders come for drinks. Expert bar staff whip up a storm behind the bar, putting together cocktails as good as anywhere in the city. Something of a Vienna legend in the making.QWindmuhlgasse 32, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 2642364.

MATIKI BAR Cocktails as exotic as they come in the heart of Vienna. The concept of a tiki bar might have gone out of fashion for a while a couple of decades or so ago, but it’s very much back now, a global phenomenon, and Matiki is the first of its kind to open in the Austrian capital. The bar staff are skilled masters of their art, highly knowledgeable, friendly and ready to mix you a drink you will not forget. Exactly the kind of place Vienna needs more of, it’s a winner and we suggest you grab your hula skirt and get over there.QF‑3, Gardegasse 2, MVolkstheater, www.matiki.at. Open 18:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-03:00; closed Sun. P­W SCHIKANEDER This bar is a favourite drinking hole among the intellectuals in Vienna’s Freihausviertel, attracting a mixed crowd of students, artists and other funky individuals. There are couches in the back, but hang out alongside the old wooden bar for more eye contact. Schikaneder also includes a small cinema showing independent and experimental films.

QG‑4, Margaretenstr. 24, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 585 28 67, www.schikaneder.at. Open 18:00-04:00.

CAFÉ BARS CAFÉ EUROPA If you need a chill environment to relax before you really begin your night, then you need to go this hip, modern café. Upbeat yet relaxed music adds to the café’s ambience and the young clientele will help point you in the right direction when you are ready to move on. Occasionally, the café hosts parties in the back half of the property, making your transition to the party scene that much easier.QF‑3, Zollergasse 8, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 526 33 83, www.europa-lager.at. Open 09:00-05:00. facebook.com/InYourPocket

WINE BARS MAST Whether you are looking simply for a glass of wine or a substantial meal (or, indeed, both) then this is as good a place as any in Vienna. Serving many different wines from a number of producers (with a focus on organic and natural wines) Mast also offers some genuinely outstanding food, from substantial bar snacks to contemporary twists of classic Austrian food. The lunchtime set menu is a bargain. The venue itself reflects the young team’s vision of food and wine: simple yet elegant.QPorzellangasse 53, MFriedensbrucke, tel. +43 1 922 66 79, www.mast. wine. Open 12:00-14:00, 18:00-22:00. Sat, Sun 18:0022:00. Closed Mon, Tue. P­B­S­W VILLON With around 150 bottled and 25 open wines, Villon is Vienna’s top winebar. The wines are all European, often from small producers and with an emphasis on Austria and Vienna. Snacks include fresh bread baked on the premises, cheese and bruschetta. Wine tasting is offered in the bar, but Villon is also the only city centre bar to offer extensive tours (Fri 16:00, Sat 17:00, only in German; book in advance) of the wine cellars, going 16 metres underground.QHabsburgergasse 4, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 967 91 29, www.villon. at. Open 15:00-22:30; closed Sun. Closed July-Aug.

CASINO CASINO WIEN Casino Wien is located at Palais Esterházy, the oldest building on the famous Kärntner Strasse right in the heart of Vienna, just a few steps away from St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The casino boasts a perfect combination of historical elegance and contemporary design. The Jackpot Cafe on the ground floor creates a relaxed, casual atmosphere.

On the upper floors, guests will find an elegant world of salons with an exceptionally stylish interior: the casino on the first floor radiates an elegant British club atmosphere, with Roulette, Black Jack, Macau Baccarat and other games creating extreme excitement. At the Cercle Bar, they serve freshly mixed cocktails and more. On the second floor, the Ovale & Chinese Salons boast a variety of gaming machines. Moments of pleasure and culinary delights at the highest level can be experienced in the Red & Grey Salons of the famous Casino Restaurant Wien.QB‑2, Kärntner Straße 41, MStephansplatz, Oper, tel. +43 1 512 48 36, www.wien.casinos.at. Jackpot Cafe: Daily 9:0004:00. Casino: Daily 14:00-04:00.

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Nightlife FREIRAUM A large and popular restaurant, lounge and bar right on the main shopping street, with a selection of breakfast boxes and powerdrinks, brunches and dinners. The burger with fries is great quality, and good value. In fact, you could spend all day here, ending with a coffee or a few cocktails at the bar. Do book ahead if you’re set on eating here, as it does get busy.QMariahilfer Str. 117, MWestbahnhof, tel. +43 1 596 96 00, www.freiraum117.at. Open 08:0002:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00-04:00.

ROCHUS This hip café in the third district is a nice alternative to the classic Viennese coffeehouse. The pipes running along the ceiling are a bit of an eyesore, but the food is great and the atmosphere is very inviting. This is a wonderful place to sit outside on a summer morning and enjoy brunch.

QI‑3, Landstrasse Hauptstr. 55-57, MRochusgasse, tel. +43 1 710 10 60, www.rochus.at. Open Sun, Mon 08:00-01:00; Tue, Wed 08:00-03:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 08:0004:00.

CLUBS CELESTE A club, gallery, art space, wine bar and jazz venue all rolled in one - Celeste manages to amaze in many ways.

Drop by for the great parties, the summertime Biergarten or the regular concerts.QHamburgerstrasse 18, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 586 53 14, www. celeste.co.at. Club open Tue-Sat 21:00-04:00, Wine bar Mon-Sat 20:00-02:00, Jazz cellar Mon-Thu 20:0002:00.

DAS WERK A wonderfully trashy club with cheap prices, and loud electronic music. There’s occasional live music but you can mainly expect DJs - and special events such as daytime fleamarkets in summer too.QSpittelauer Lände 12, MSpittelauer Bahnhst, www.daswerk.org. Open 20:00-04:00; Sun 20:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00-06:00; closed Mon. DUAL This city centre club offers fans of electro music a small but interesting venue, a great venue for dancing with impressive visuals projected behind the DJs.QBurggasse 70, MVolkstheater, www.clubdual.at. Open Thu-Sat 23:00-06:00.

FLEX For more then 15 years this club has been famous for underground parties in Vienna. With one of Europe’s best sound systems, every event is unforgettable. About two years ago Flex started to change its image from very alternative to a bit more hip. But no matter who you are and how you are dressed - this club is definitely a place to dance a night away.QB‑1, Augartenbrücke 1, MSchottenring, tel. +43 1 533 75 25, www.flex.at. Open 18:00-04:00.

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FLUC Fluc is a great venue because it caters to every music taste imaginable. The programme is replete with everything from hip-hop and dance to rock, blues and progressive club.

What’s more, there is both an upstairs and a downstairs venue with different musical moods, so that even on a single night you can enjoy a variety of music styles. The drinks are decently priced and the nearby Prater park makes for a fun walk when your ears need a break from the beats.QI ‑ 1, Praterstern 5, MPraterstern, www.fluc.at.

Open 22:00-05:00.

GRELLE FORELLE With a wicked sound system and world class DJs, the new Grelle Forelle may have a cover charge, but by the time you leave you’ll swear you would have paid much more to get in. Take a break from dancing in the chill-out lounge. Only for age 21 and over.QSpittelauer Lände 12, MSpittelau, www.grelleforelle.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-06:00.

RA’MIEN A great two-in-one venue: upstairs, you can dig into delicious Asian dishes (see Restaurants) before heading downstairs to the basement lounge to enjoy a cocktail and hit the dance floor. Weekend parties at Ra’mien are legendary. While it can get pretty hot down here, you’ll never be alone on the dancefloor.QG‑3, Gumpendorferstrasse 9, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 585 47 98, www. ramien.at. Open 11:00-02:00; closed Mon. SASS CLUB Sass Club features club nights in a downstairs venue that is somewhere between Flex and Loos Bar in terms of design.

Sass always has a good mix of people and a well-run bar with dedicated staff. It really comes in to save the day when you are looking for an afterparty to keep dancing in the wee hours of the morning. Expect Electronic Music Culture and a sophisticated DJ lineup.QB‑3, Karlsplatz 1, MKarlsplatz, www.sassvienna.com. Open Sun 06:0011:00; Thu, Fri 23:00-06:00; Sat 23:00-05:00.

VOLKSGARTEN Volksgarten is always a happening place, no matter what night of the week it is. From hip-hop to dance to alternative, your music tastes will be featured at this central venue. You don’t have to dress to the nines, but you should dress stylish.QA‑2, Burgring, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1 533 05 18, www.volksgarten.at.

JAZZ CLUBS 1019 JAZZCLUB There’s live Jazz music 6 nights a week at the 1019, a club north of the city centre named after an Eric Gales song.

The audience comes in early for the great atmosphere and good food including ravioli and organic Angus burgers plus the local wines and craft beers - and hangs on for the great music.QAlthanstr. 12, tel. +43 1 300 11 12, www.1019jazzclub.at. Open 19:00-02:00; closed Sun. vienna.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife PORGY & BESS Easily the best location for jazz in Vienna, Porgy & Bess has been a popular place among muscians and fans alike since the early 90s. Accordingly, it is usually one of the more expensive jazz venues, but the concerts are worth every cent.

Porgy & Bess has an intense schedule and musicians from all over the world play just about every night of the year, so no matter when you come, you’ll be able to get a taste of great jazz.QB‑2, Riemergasse 11, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 88 11, www.porgy.at. Open 19:30-01:00.

PUBS 1516 This is Vienna’s best-known micro-brewery, attracting beer lovers from all over. Mostly brewing ales and beers from malted barley, 1516 also uses malted wheat, rye and rice when the recipe calls for it, and their beers rank among the best-tasting local brews. It’s a great place for a hamburger and there’s always a great atmosphere to watch a football game. Reservations, though not always necessary, are recommended for larger parties and for big sports events.

QB‑3, Krugerstrasse 18, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 961 15 16, www.1516brewingcompany.com. Open 10:0002:00; Sun 11:00-02:00; Fri 10:00-03:00; Sat 11:00-03:00.

BOGSIDE INN This is a cosy Irish pub next to the Rathhaus that does not usually see too many tourists. Bogside has an excellent selection of about 80 single malts and Irish whiskeys, with a different nightly special from Monday to Thursday.

If you like whiskey as much as we do, this place is special any night of the week. The friendly owner prepares great snacks and claims to serve guests every day of the year.

QG‑1, Landesgerichtsstr. 18, MRathaus, tel. +43 1 409 64 90, www.bogside.at. daily from 18:00.

CHARLIE P’S IRISH PUB Charlie P’s has become an institution in the Viennese Pub & Restaurant Scene, providing an authentic Irish Pub experience to its loyal fans for 18 years. With 30 Taps, 40 Craft Beers and 70 Wines, there’s something for everyone.

Their nightly line-up on DJ’s keeps the students and locals alike dancing until the early hours. What really sets Charlie P’s apart is its Gault Millau Haube winning Dining Room and is the only Irish Pub in the world with a Michelin Star Chef!QA‑1, Währinger Str. 3, MSchottentor, tel. +43 1 409 79 23, www.charlieps.at. Open 14:00-02:00; Sun 13:00-01:00; Fri 14:00-03:00; Sat 13:00-03:00.

DOWN UNDER Austria may not have any kangaroos, but if you want a taste of Australia while you’re in Vienna, head to Down Under.

This relaxed pub regularly has live music played by some of the best musicians in town. Every Friday and Saturday night the pub opens up the Snake Pit, a 600-year-old cellar where you can dance the night away. The pub also caters to sports fans.QF‑4, Magdalenenstr. 32, MPilgramgasse, tel. +43 1 585 73 30, www.downunder.at. Open 19:00-04:00. facebook.com/InYourPocket

KARAOKE BARS LEMMON Tucked into a tiny corner near the Fleischmarkt, this is the only karaoke locale in the first district. Wireless microphones and monitors throughout the bar make first-timers feel at ease, while seasoned performers can really get the crowd going. And don’t be afraid to really wail - the bar is completely sound-proofed.QC‑2, Wolfengasse 1, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 699 11 96 15 72, www.lemmon.at. Open 18:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00; closed Sun, Mon. SING YOUR SONG The small stage of this basement bar is where Vienna’s hardcore karaoke fans come to strut their stuff. With beer on tap, specials on shots throughout the night, and outgoing (not to mention talented) DJs, Sing Your Song draws a colourful crowd of characters just about every night.QA‑3, Eschenbachgasse 5, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 585 32 33, www.singyoursong.at. Open 20:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 20:00-04:00; closed Sun. FLANAGANS This original Irish pub’s interior is strictly imported from Ireland, where an old pub in Dublin was closed down and shipped to Vienna. Its central location and colourful clientele make it a fun place to meet up for drinks or to watch sports. Avid readers will find Flanigan’s small library a great resource where you can exchange books for free.

QB‑3, Schwarzenbergstr. 1-3, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 513 73 78, www.flanagans.at. Open 10:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-04:00.

JOHNNY’S PUB Johnny’s Pub is truly famous for its party atmosphere.

The pub is a bit on the small side and does not have very much room to sit, making for an interaction-friendly environment. You will not leave without making any new friends. Tuesday night is Johnny’s fun and challenging pub quiz - get there early to claim a seat. Johnny claims to serve the best burgers in town, and we believe he could be right.

QG‑3, Schleifmühlgasse 11, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 587 19 21, www.johnnys-pub.at. Open 18:0004:00; Sun, Mon 18:00-02:00.

SHEBEEN A well-established Irish pub in Vienna, Shebeen offers typical Irish and British food and the usual weekly pub quiz. What sets it apart is its live music every Friday and its popular open mic every Sunday, where you can belt out a song. While you can expect most big international football games to be beamed on screens, don´t rely on getting a free table without a reservation. Do not forget to order their crispy homemade fries with your beer.QF‑2, Lerchenfelderstr. 45, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1 524 79 00, www.shebeen.at. Open 17:00-02:00; Sun 10:0002:00; Sat 13:00-04:00.

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Sightseeing

Get up early and you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous warm swathes of colour over Schönbrunn Palace and its famous gardens. | © Andrej Privizer

The first district, surrounded by the majestic imperial buildings along the Ringstrasse, is Vienna’s historical centre.

Many of the important sights, such as the impressive St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the gigantic Hofburg, Vienna’s town hall, and many of the main museums are located here, all within walking distance. But a lot of essential Vienna lies beyond it. Outlying sights, such as Schloß Schönbrunn, or the funfair and parks of the Prater are musts for every visitor.

Using public transport to get to these places is easy.

MAIN SIGHTS BELVEDERE Named for the Italian phrase for “beautiful view”, the Belvedere palace complex was originally conceived as a summer country estate for Prince Eugene of Savoy, one of the most celebrated military heroes in European history. His impressive collection of artwork is displayed here, along with more recent additions from the royal Habsburg holdings.

The Upper Belvedere’s major attraction is undoubtedly Gustav Klimt’s famous painting The Kiss, which can also be seen on countless scarves, mugs, posters and other trinkets sold by surrounding shops and street vendors. While most visitors skip the Lower Belvedere, its collection of curiously troubling Messerschmidt heads make the extra few euros for a combination ticket well worthwhile. To get here, take tram D to the Schloss Belvedere stop.QC‑4, Prinz-EugenStr. 27, tel. +43 1 79 55 70, www.belvedere.at. Open 10:00-18:00; Wed 10:00-21:00. Admission €3.50-13.50.

Guides/audioguides €4/3.

36 Vienna In Your Pocket

DANUBE TOWER VIENNA Initially designed for the Viennese International Horticultural Show in 1964, the Donauturm (Danube Tower) is now an integral part of Vienna’s skyline. Found near the northern bank of the Danube in the very centre of the Donaupark, it is the tallest structure in Austria, although this is clear to see from its imposing presence. 776 steps lead to the viewing platform at 150 metres, although there are a couple of elevators that will do the work if you aren’t exactly thrilled by the prospect of the walk. A restaurant and cafe are found at the viewing platform, offering magnificent 360 degree views of one of the world’s great cities. There is a bungee site here in summer, perfect for those after something a little more extreme. QDonauturmstr. 4, MKaisermühlen/VIC, tel. +43 1 263 35 72, www.donauturm.at. Open 10:0024:00. last ride up at 23:30.

The stunning Palmenhaus Schönbrunn, home to a world within a world © Robert Prax, pixabay

vienna.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing HOFBURG Home to the Habsburg monarchy for more than six centuries, the ten major buildings comprising the Hofburg complex represent the splendour and influence of what was once the mightiest empire in Europe. While this has been the site of countless decisive historical events, the sweeping arcaded façade of the Neue Burg earned worldwide notoriety in April of 1938, when Adolf Hitler spoke to a crowd of 200,000 people from its central balcony. Nearly every Austrian monarch has left his (or her) fingerprint on the layout of this palace, resulting in a stylistic mishmash and a wide array of museums.

Maps in several languages are posted in the courtyards throughout the complex, but here are the highlights: the Schatzkammer (Imperial Treasury) houses the crown jewels, as well as the nail supposed to have pierced Christ’s right hand and the so-called Spear of Destiny. If you’re into impressive baroque interiors, the reading room of the Nationalbibliothek (National Library) is a highlight. For those with a fascination for sordid dynastic family histories, a ticket to the Kaiserappartements (Emperor’s Apartments) includes the Silberkammer (Silver Vault) and Sisimuseum (Sisi Museum), lending an intimate insight into the private lives of Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife, Elizabeth of Bavaria (better known locally as Sisi). The dancing white Lippizaner horses of the Spanische Hofreitschule (Spanish Riding School) perform here, as well as the boy sopranos and altos of the Wiener Sängerknaben (Vienna Boys’ Choir) QA‑2, Heldenplatz, MVolkstheater, tel. +43-1-533 75 70, www.hofburg-wien.at. Open Sept-June 09:00-17:30, July-Aug 09:00-18:00. Admission €13,90/8,20, Sisi Ticket €29,90/18.

HUNDERTWASSER-KRAWINAHAUS This vibrant and fanciful public housing complex, now an iconic landmark of the work of Austria’s own architectural iconoclast, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, regularly tops lists of visitors’ favourite sights in Vienna. As you can probably tell by the Gaudi-esque shapes and colourful palate, Hundertwasser embraced a playful, environmentallyfocused artistic philosophy. He proclaimed that straight lines were “godless and immoral,” that every building should have as many trees as tenants, that rolling, uneven floors were “a divine melody to the feet,” and that access to a window was a basic human right. While entering the building is not permitted (it is a private residence for 52 families and 250 trees and shrubs), the Kunsthaus Wien, located just down Untere Weißgerberstraße, features a small museum and café dedicated to this controversial figure.QI‑2, Kegelgasse 37-39, M1 tram Hetzgasse, tel. +43 1 710 41 16, www.hundertwasserhaus.info.

MUSEUMSQUARTIER WIEN Formerly the imperial court stables, the MuseumQuarter Wien complex now functions as a lively meeting point for young artists, musicians and students. The ten museums and venues housed here focus on fostering the creation of art as well as its appreciation, so exhibitions, performances and workshops in a range of disciplines (as well as free facebook.com/InYourPocket

Creativity and music is everywhere in Vienna

© Alexey Fedorenko

wireless internet) are offered to the public year-round. In warm weather, the central courtyard features a pétanque field, mini-racecar track, outdoor bars and restaurants, and distinctive brightly coloured outdoor couch-like Enzis, so you can grab a cold beer and get to know the locals.

Keep an eye on the schedule for their indoor and outdoor events in both summer and winter.QG‑3, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 523 58 81, www.mqw. at. Admission free to the courtyard.

IRRGARTEN SCHÖNBRUNN (LABYRINTH) Situated amid the expansive and highly manicured baroque gardens of the Habsburg summer residence, the topiary maze and labyrinth of Schönbrunn date back to original 17th century layouts intended for the amusement of the palace’s royal residents and guests. These days, the attractions are open to the rest of us, presenting a series of twists, turns, riddles and interactive puzzles to challenge and enchant visitors of all ages. QSchloss Schönbrunn, MHietzing, tel. +43 1 811 132 39, www.schoenbrunn. at. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission € 6/3,50.

A delightful view towards Vienna’s Riesenrad

© mikecphoto

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Sightseeing VIENNA WITH THE KIDS Behind the façade of Vienna’s imperial opulence, you might wonder if there is any space left for simple down-to-earth family fun in this city. Thankfully opportunities abound for year-round outdoor entertainment, festivals, concerts, street fairs, as well as museums, theatres and other creative activities where both kids and their parents can feel comfortable and welcome.

HAUS DES MEERES (AQUA TERRA ZOO) Featuring more than 10,000 animals, Vienna’s Aqua Terra Zoo occupies one of six massive concrete flak gun towers built by the Nazis shortly before the end of WWII. The huge space is divided between terrariums, aquariums and aviaries. Highlights include the feeding of the sharks and piranhas (Mon at 10:30 & Fri at 15:30) as well as other animals (posted online). Thrillseekers may find a trip up the rock climbing wall on the outside of the flak tower a fun jaunt before viewing the weekly shark dive (Thu at 18:00).QF‑3, Fritz-Grünbaumplatz 1, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 587 14 17, www.hausdes-meeres.at. Open 09:00-18:00; Thu 09:00-21:00.

Admission €18,90/8,60.

TECHNISCHES MUSEUM WIEN (TECHNICAL MUSEUM) Attention technology geeks: this is your playground!

You can use all of your senses and imagination to experience the stages of scientific and technological progress from its inception to the latest cutting-edge achievements. Permanent and special exhibits feature the development of heavy industry, energy production, transportation, communication, musical instruments, computers and a lot more. Special programs for children offer interactive learning, holiday games, and even birthday parties with friends. Trams N°52 or 58 from Westbahnhof.QD‑4, Mariahilferstrasse 212, tel. +43 1 89 99 80, www.technischesmuseum.at. Open 09:00-18:00; Sun, Sat 10:00-18:00. Admission €13, children under 19 free.

ZOOM KINDERMUSEUM The ZOOM is Austria’s only museum dedicated to children up to 14 years old. The exposition is divided into four areas - main exhibit, ocean, studio and animated film centre - and is designed to make cultural and scientific information as comprehensible to kids as possible.

The focus is on games and play, as well as on sensory cognitive process. Kids are encouraged to ask questions and make things of their own. Teenagers can create animated films or even record their own pop songs. An ideal place for families to spend a stimulating afternoon.

QG‑3, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 524 79 08, info@kindermuseum.at, www. kindermuseum.at. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Exhibition admission free.

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RIESENRAD The most recognizable attraction of the Wurstelprater is undoubtedly the iconic Riesenrad, or Ferris wheel at the park’s entrance. Erected in 1897 to celebrate the Golden Jubilee of Emperor Franz Joseph, it ranks among the world’s oldest and largest Ferris wheels, reaching a height of 64.75 meters. The Riesenrad gained international fame through the 1949 classic film, The Third Man when one of the cabins was the scene of a pivotal argument between Orson Welles and Joseph Cotton. A visit to Vienna can hardly be complete without a ride on this historic giant and the breathtaking views from the top.QI‑1, Riesenradplatz 1, MPraterstern, tel. +43 1 729 54 30, www.wienerriesenrad.com. Open 09:00-24:00. Tickets €12/5.

SCHLOSS SCHÖNBRUNN This magnificent summer palace of the Habsburg royalty truly embodies the opulence of the Baroque era, from its topiary maze and minutely manicured gardens to the ornately detailed interiors. Several tour packages offer access to the highlights of its 1,441 rooms, which have witnessed imperial births and deaths, the signings of treaties, legendary performances, and a veritable who’s who of European history. A visit to Schönbrunn isn’t complete without a walk around the park grounds; the Tiergarten is the oldest continuously running zoo in the world, and while modest in scale, it boasts a comprehensive feeding schedule and well-designed enclosures. If you’re the more intrepid sort, definitely opt for a hike up the hill to the ornamental Gloriette, where you can refuel with Kaffee and a Kipferl, just like Empress Maria Theresa did more than 250 years ago.QD‑4, Schönbrunner Schlossstr.

47, MSchönbrunn, tel. +43 1 811 132 39, www. schoenbrunn.at. Open April-June & Sept-Oct 08:3017:30, July-Aug 08:30-18:30, Nov-Mar 08:30-17:00. Park open dawn till dusk. Admission €14,20/10,50, Sisi Ticket €29,90/18. Park free.

SPANISCHE HOFREITSCHULE (SPANISH RIDING SCHOOL) The oldest riding academy in the world, this fixture in Habsburg imperial history has perpetuated the High School of Classical Horsemanship with their famous white Lippizaner horses for more than 430 years. Performances can be pricey and sell out quickly, so attending a morning exercise (daily Tuesday through Saturday, 09:00-12:00) can be a good alternative, although the showier dressage elements are usually left out.QA‑2, Michaelerplatz 1, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 533 90 31, www.srs.at. Visitor centre open Tue-Sun 09:00-16:00, Fri when there is a performance 09:00-19:00. Visitor Centre admission free; show tickets €12-116.

STEPHANSDOM Even if you’re in European church overload, this is one cathedral you don’t want to skip. This location has functioned as the religious, cultural and geographic centre of Vienna for more than eight centuries, a history which can vienna.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing practically be traced through the basilica’s mish-mash of architectural styles. If you can believe it, there are even more legends surrounding this landmark than there are tourists, so taking a tour is strongly recommended, especially later in the day once the guided tour groups have passed through.QB‑2, Stephansplatz, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 513 76 48, www.stephanskirche.at. Open 06:0022:00. Nave closed during services. Admission free.

Tours €1,50-14,50.

MUSEUMS ALBERTINA Vienna’s iconic Albertina museum holds the world’s largest collection of graphic art, with Monet, Picasso, Van Gogh, Renoir, Degas and many more in the permanent collection.

The plush 19th century Empire-style state rooms are juxtaposed by the striking new titanium wing designed

by Hans Hollein, reflecting the museum’s characteristic synthesis of classical and modern artwork. With its selection of 100 works, the collection of Bruegel’s drawn and printed output is the pick of the Albertina’s current exhibitions. The famous museum now has a second exhibition space — the ALBERTINA Modern — just a short walk away. QB‑3, Albertinaplatz 1, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 53 48 30, www. albertina.at. Open 10:00-18:00; Wed, Fri 10:00-21:00. On public holidays, the opening hours of the respective weekday apply. Admission €16,90, Seniors 65+ €12,90, Young adults under 26 €11,90, under 19s free.

The Albertina is one of the world’s great art museums

THE

BEGINNING DIE ERSTE AUSSTELLUNG ZUR KUNST IN ÖSTERREICH VON 1945 BIS 1980!

Robert Klemmer, Laufender Klemmer (Detail), 1970, Sammlung Ph. Konzett, Wien © Estate Robert Klemmer

ARCHITEKTURZENTRUM WIEN The Austrian Museum of Architecture is an internationally respected institution, and it doesn’t take long to understand why. The history and development of architecture in a country defined by the art is extensively documented, explored and celebrated here, with permanent exhibitions alongside workshops, guided tours, city exhibitions and more than 500 special events throughout the year. This is one of the most credible homages to architecture on the planet, and has long served as a comprehensive hub for researchers from all over the globe.QG‑3, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 521 31 15 30, www.azw.at. Open 10:00-19:00. Admission €7/4.50.

13. 3 BIS 2. 8. 2020 ALBERTINA MODERN KÜNSTLERHAUS WIEN KARLSPLATZ 5

© Julius Silver, pixabay

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Sightseeing BANK AUSTRIA KUNSTFORUM WIEN A top address for art lovers, especially those with a passion for classical modern painting from the past 50 years. Both leading museums as private collectors use this exhibition centre to present their works.QA‑2, Freyung 8, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 537 3 26, www. kunstforumwien.at. Open 10:00-19:00; Fri 10:00-21:00.

Admission €11/8,50/6.

GEMÄLDEGALERIE DER AKADEMIE DER BILDENDEN KÜNSTE WIEN (HOSTED AT THE THEATERMUSEUM) The Gemäldegalerie has temporarily relocated to the Theatermuseum until 2020, but the magnificent array of paintings remains arrestingly engaging. Some of the most important artists in Europe’s long and storied history of creativity are showcased, with masters such as Rubens, Rembrandt and Titian found on the elegant walls. The slightly eccentric ‘Last Judgment’ altarpiece by Hieronymus Bosch might be the main event, dating as it does from the early 1500s. Vienna is an art’s lover’s dream, and the Gemäldegalerie is a definite must-visit.QH‑2, Lobkowitzplatz 2, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 588 16 22 01, fax +43 1 588 16 22 99, www.akademiegalerie.at.

Open 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission €12/9 - free up to 18 years. A­U HEERESGESCHICHTLICHES MUSEUM (MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY) The Museum of Military History features a survey of Austrian and European conflict spanning more than four centuries, all presented within Vienna’s former barracks and armoury. Artefacts, arms and armour from practically every continental conflict since the 17th century include original Turkish tents, the car and couch where Emperor Franz Ferdinand was shot and died, Nazi propaganda, various aircraft, a tank garden and (remarkably for a landlocked country) an extensive naval wing. Audio guides in four languages included.QI‑4, Arsenal Objekt 1, MSüdbahnhof, tel. +43 1 79 56 10, www.hgm.at. Open 09:00-17:00. Admission €6/4, first Sun in the month free.

The Kunsthalle is one of Vienna’s most influential buildings

© Kunsthalle Wien 2014, photo Stephan Wyckoff

40 Vienna In Your Pocket

HOFMOBILIENDEPOT The Imperial Furniture Collection is every bit as opulent as you presume it is going to be, a vast array of stunning seats, chairs and rests the likes of which you assume to be found in the home of a Royal dynasty. There is a lot more to this than sofas though, and the Hofmobiliendepot has taken on a far more varied stance over the years — current exhibitions look at Danish design and Sissi in the movies. QF‑3, Andreasgasse 7, MZieglergasse, tel. +43 (0)1 81 11 30, www.hofmobiliendepot.at. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €10,50/6,50.

KAISERLICHE SCHATZKAMMER WIEN (IMPERIAL TREASURY VIENNA) In the Hofburg’s oldest inner courtyard, the Habsburg Imperial Treasury contains a fascinating array of many of the empire’s most valuable artefacts. Gape at the crown jewels, ornate reliquaries, monstrances, embroidered vestments, a splinter of the ‘true cross’ (plus one of the nails). There’s also the enigmatic Spear of Destiny, long believed to have been the one thrust into Christ’s side, and credited with granting (at least temporary) world domination to its long list of powerful owners, among others, Barbarossa, Constantine the Great, Charlemagne and Hitler.QA‑2, Hofburg, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1 525 2 40, www. kaiserliche-schatzkammer.at. Open 09:00-17:30; closed Tue. Admission €12/9.

KUNSTHALLE WIEN Behind the elegant Baroque façade of the Museumsquartier building, the Kunsthalle is one of the most vibrant contemporary art venues in Europe, and Vienna’s main exhibition space for contemporary art. Expect themed group exhibitions, exciting solo exhibitions, retrospectives and works by emerging artists. The Kunsthalle has a second space on Karlsplatz, at (B-3) Treitlstrasse 2.QB‑3, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 521 89 33, www.kunsthallewien.at. Open 11:00-19:00; Thu 11:00-21:00. Admission Museumsquartier €8, Karlsplatz €3, combined €12.

KUNSTHAUS WIEN The Museum Hundertwasser was founded by Friedensreich Hundertwasser, one of the most important Austrian artists of the twentieth century.

The Museum Hundertwasser unites the most important aspects of his oeuvre and exhibits the largest collection in the world of his paintings, printed graphics, tapestries and architectural designs. Vienna’s first „green museum“ also gives its visitors the chance to experience Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s visionary ecological commitment – he experimented with grass roofs and planted trees in building facades. The Bistro in the KUNST HAUS WIEN serves vegetarian delicacies – also in the romantic garden.QI‑2, Untere Weißgerberstraße 13, MRadetzkyplatz, tel. +43 1 712 04 91, www.kunsthauswien.com. Open 10:0018:00. Admission € 10/5, Combined ticket € 12. vienna.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

MASTERPIECES SCHIELE & KLIMT www.leopoldmuseum.org Max Halberstadt, Sigmund Freud, 1921, Foto: Sigmund Freud Privatstiftung/Imagno/picturedesk.com Josef Hoffmann, Brosche, Sammlung Grubman, Foto: © Auktionshaus im Kinsky | Weitere Werke: © Leopold Museum, Wien (Details)

W1900 In your pocket.indd 1 KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM Nowhere in Vienna will you experience a more salient account of Austrian imperial history. The building’s layout even echoes the geography of the Habsburg monarchy the impressive central stairwell represents the Alps and divides the two major European artistic schools. While the east wing contains all of the northern German, Flemish and Dutch pieces (Rubens, Bruegel, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Dürer), the west wing boasts a comprehensive overview of important Spanish and Italian works (Titian, Raphael, Caravaggio, Tintoretto, Velásquez). Egyptian, near East, Greek and Roman antiquities and the Kunstkammer with the most wonderful of artworks, such as the world famous »Saliera« (salt cellar) by Benvenuto Cellini, make up the ground floor.QA‑3, Burgring 5, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1 52 52 40, www.khm.at. Open 10:00-18:00; Thu 10:00-21:00; closed Mon. Admission €16/12, audioguides €5.

KUNSTRAUM NIEDEROESTERREICH The official art space of Lower Austria at 13 Herrengasse in the middle of Vienna has been open admission free to visitors since 2005. With attractive architecture and a floor area of 300 square metres in Palais Niederösterreich, the former Lower Austrian Government building, the Kunstraum provides facilities for the presentation of work by young Austrian and international artists. Here, they can show their work to the public without the pressure of having to meet sales targets or visitor quotas while facebook.com/InYourPocket

27.08.2019 14:03:55 still being at the centre of cultural life in the city.QA‑2, Herrengasse 13, tel. +43 1 904 21 11, www.kunstraum. net. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun, Mon.

KÜNSTLERHAUS WIEN The Künstlerhaus is an artistic institution in Vienna, part of the furniture, a hugely influential building that has seen some seriously impressive works over the years, years stretching back to the glory days of the Ringstraße. The building has undergone some serious renovation in recent times and is scheduled to reopen this March, and we are all sorts of excited about that. QKarlsplatz 5, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 587 96 63, www.k-haus.at.

LEOPOLD MUSEUM Inside the Museum Quarter complex, the sleek white Leopold Museum boasts the world’s largest collection of work by expressionist Egon Schiele, as well as important pieces by Gustav Klimt, Oskar Kokoschka and other major Austrian artists from the 19th and 20th centuries. The architecture of the Leopold Museum, a light-filled cube of white shell limestone, stands in striking contrast to the historic ambience of the Imperial Stables.Tip: The museum’s panorama windows offer a wonderful view of central Vienna and the Hofburg Palace.QG‑3, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 57 00, www. leopoldmuseum.org. Open 10:00–18:00; Thu 10:0021:00; closed Tue. Admission €14/10, Audioguide €4.

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Sightseeing and his most important works. The exhibition focuses on his years in Vienna, which marked a high point in his creativity.QB‑2, Domgasse 5, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 17 91, www.mozarthausvienna.at. Open 10:0019:00. Admission €11/9/4.50. Combined ticket with Haus der Musik €18.

MUMOK (MUSEUM OF MODERN ART) The Mumok, short for Museum Moderner Kunst, is Austria’s leading centre for modern and contemporary art. It stands for cosmopolitanism, progress and artistic diversity of the highest quality. Occupying an impressive black basalt block in the Museumsquartier, it hosts an exceptional collection that has given it a standing that extends far beyond Vienna’s borders. While Mumok’s collection forms the basis of the exhibition programme, they put on four exhibitions per year in collaboration with international partners.QG‑3, Museumsplatz 1, MMuseumsquartier, tel. +43 1 52 50 00, www.mumok.at. Open 10:00-19:00; Mon 14:0019:00; Thu 10:00-21:00. Admission €11/8, Articket valid.

The Leopold Museum is one big love letter to Austrian art

©Julia Spicker

MADAME TUSSAUDS The Vienna branch of the world famous wax museum features more than 80 lifelike wax figures of stars, politicians, celebrities and musicians from around the world. In addition to typical international favourites, the collection also includes many Austrian figures. Mozart, Falco, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Freud, Klimt and Conchita Wurst are ready and infinitely patient for pictures with fans.

QI‑1, Riesenradplatz, MPraterstern, tel. +43 1 890 33 66, www.madametussauds.com/wien. Open 10:0018:00. Last entry 17:00. Admission €20,5/16,5.

MAK – MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS (MAK) Founded in 1863 under Emperor Franz Joseph, the MAK is one of the most grandiose buildings on Vienna’s Ringstraße. With its unique collection of precious arts and crafts from five centuries, it is one of the most important museums of its kind worldwide. A museum highlight is the exhibition “Vienna 1900” with masterpieces of the Wiener Werkstätte by Gustav Klimt, Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser as well as design icons by Otto Wagner and Adolf Loos. In addition, the MAK presents a new DESIGN LAB and top-class temporary exhibitions in the fields of art, design and architecture.QC‑2, Stubenring 5, MStubentor, Landstrasse, tel. +43 1 712 80 00, www.mak.at/en. Open 10:00-18:00; Tue 18:00-21:00; closed Mon. Admission €14,00/11,00, Tuesdays 6–9 p.m. admission € 6, Free admission for children and teens under 19.

MOZARTHAUS VIENNA A centre devoted to the life and works of Austria’s musical genius, housed in the last remaining of Mozart’s apartments. The composer lived here in grand style from 1784-87. In addition to the historical Mozart apartment, visitors can find out about the times in which Mozart lived 42 Vienna In Your Pocket

MUSEUM AUF ABRUF (MUSA) The ‘Museum on Demand’, located in the former Public Relief office, was conceived in the early 1990s as a forum for the city’s promising young visual artists. Today it has a large gallery space and a long list of alumni that reads as a practical who’s who in the Austrian art scene. Guided tours and workshops are available upon request.QA‑1, Felderstrasse 6-8, MRathaus, tel. +43 1 40 00 84 00, www.musa.at. Open 11:00-18:00; Thu 11:00-20:00; Fri 11:00-16:00; closed Sun, Mon. Admission free.

MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS They say that seeing is believing, but excellent attractions like the Museum of Illusions certainly make us question that. A fascinating exploration of the senses and the trickster ability of the mind, the Museum of Illusions is an entertaining way to spend many an hour in Vienna.

The exhibitions are worth the price of admission alone, and you’ll get plenty of laughs from the photographic opportunities throughout.QWallnerstraße 4, tel. +43 (0)1 532 22 55, www.museumderillusionen.at. Open 10:00-21:00. €12 adults, €8 children, €10 seniors, €30 family.

View from St. Stephen's Cathedral

© Sergey Novikov, Shutterstock

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Sightseeing NATURHISTORISCHES MUSEUM Renowned for its zoological and anthropological holdings, this museum offers the scientific perspective of the extensive imperial collections. Many of the specimens displayed in the late 19th-century wood-panelled halls date from Austria’s ambitious research and colonial expeditions, including the Colombian emerald presented to Hernán Cortés by Aztec ruler Montezuma, several stuffed extinct species, and the oldest human-carved statuette ever found. Unless you’re a mineralogist, start on the second floor and work your way down—the dinosaurs, animals and special exhibitions are upstairs.QA‑2, Burgring 7, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1 52 17 70, www.nhm-wien.ac.at. Open 09:00-18:30; Wed 09:00-21:00; closed Tue. Admission €10/8/5.

SECESSION This remarkable building was conceived as a deliberate opposition to the predominant artistic nostalgia of the early 20th century, and most of Vienna ridiculed its crowning gold sphere as a goldenes Krauthappel or ‘golden cabbage’ when it was unveiled in 1898. Today, the vegetable-ism has become something of an endearment with the building featured on the back of Austrian-minted €0,50 coins, and the building has functioned as a forum for modern Austrian artists for more than 100 years. The main attraction is undoubtedly Gustav Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze, but the higher ticket price will also snag you entry to the other exhibitions.QA‑3, Friedrichstrasse 12, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 587 53 07, www.secession.at. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission €9,50/6.

THEATRE MUSEUM Vienna’s Theatre Museum is located in the splendid Lobkowitz Palace, the first important palace built in Vienna after the second Ottoman siege in 1683. The museum evolved from the Theater Collection of the Austrian National Library, founded in 1922. It opened here in the palace in 1991, and today represents one of the largest and most important collections in the field of theatre with the possibility for presentations in magnificent show rooms. Since November 2017 it has hosted the collection of Old Masters usually on display in the Academy of Fine Arts (currently being renovated).QG‑2, Lobkowitzplatz 2, MStephansplatz, www.theatermuseum.at. Open 10:0020:00; closed Tue. €8.

THIRD MAN MUSEUM This hole-in-the-wall museum, curated privately by a pair of film fans, is dedicated to the 1949 British/American co-operation The Third Man. Retro posters, photos and signed Orson Welles memorabilia make up the majority of the museum’s collection, but the film itself lends a fascinating perspective on the postWWII period when Vienna’s black market thrived under Allied occupation.QG‑3, Pressgasse 25, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 586 48 72, www.3mpc.net. Open Sat 14:00 - 18:00, or by request for groups. Admission €7,50/6.

WELTMUSEUM WIEN Just as in many other ethnographic museums all around the world, it is necessary for the Weltmuseum Wien to take a critical look into its own past in order to shape its future. facebook.com/InYourPocket

Gelebt Ingeborg Strobl 6.3.– 26.7.2020

MuseumsQuartier Museumsplatz 1 A-1070 Wien www.mumok.at Ingeborg Strobl, Ohne Titel, 2014, mumok, Schenkung Ingeborg Strobl, 2017 © Bildrecht Wien, 2020, Foto: © Ingeborg Strobl

Over the course of the last few centuries, some of what can today be admired in our exhibitions was collected under somewhat questionable circumstances. It is, therefore, all the more important for us to have an open dialogue, to be self-critical and see ourselves as a forum in which as many voices as possible should be heard. The highlights of the Museum represent more than 500 years of highquality collecting activities on the part of the Habsburgs – among them objects from the Cabinet of Curiosities of Emperor Rudolf II, the unique Mexican feather headdress »Penacho«, the world-famous collection of James Cook, and objects from the voyages of discovery and research of the 19th century.QHeldenplatz, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1 52524 0, www.weltmuseumwien.at. Open 10:0018:00; Fri 10:00-21:00; closed Wed. €12.

WESTLICHT MUSEUM All photography everything. The art of snapping photos is becoming ever more popular around the world, so don’t be surprised if Vienna’s WestLicht museum becomes something of a cultural mecca in years to come. More than 40,000 photographs and daguerrotypes make up the museum, along with a fantastic spread of equipment and all the rest. Lennart Nilsson’s work is currently being shown at the museum, and we all know how iconic that foetus picture was.QE‑3, Westbahnstrasse 40, MBurgasseStadthalle, www.westlicht.com. Open 14:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-19:00; Thu 14:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission €7/€4.

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Jewish Vienna

© Agentur Wulz

There are few cities in Europe where the Jewish population has been so deeply ingrained, and yet, has experienced such devastation during the persistent waves of anti-Semitism and in the World War II, as Vienna. The historical, political and economic contribution of the Jewish community into this city’s past and present can hardly be underestimated. It would suffice to say that three of four Nobel Prize Winners from Austria were Jewish. Luminaries such as the father of psychoanalysis Sigmund Freud, writers Arthur Schnitzler and Stefan Zweig, composers Gustav Mahler and Emmerich Kalman, and the founder of modern Zionist movement Theodore Herzl, all lived and worked here and were all of Jewish origin.

JEWISH RENAISSANCE AND THE RISE OF ANTI-SEMITISM

EARLY HISTORY

WWII AND THE HOLOCAUST

The first mention of Jews in Vienna is from the 12th century.

By 1420 the Jews had comprised about 5% of the city’s population, but soon they were expelled from the city, their property was confiscated, and many were brutally murdered in nearby Erdberg. Later in the 15th century they were allowed to return and establish their own colony in Leopoldstadt. Under the reign of Empress Maria Theresa laws were introduced that substantially worsened the condition of the Jews; these were later repealed, and Vienna became the center of Jewish culture in Central Europe.

On March 12, 1938, Hitler marched into Vienna and made a speech at the balcony of the Hofburg Palace. Almost immediately, Aryan-only laws were enacted, and Jews were deprived of civil rights, were not permitted to own land or hold public office. On November 9, 1938, the notorious Kristallnacht occurred, when angry residents, driven by the Nazi party, torched Jewish businesses and synagogues.

About 6,000 Jews were apprehended and sent to Dachau camp that day. Following the Wannsee Conference of 1942, Jews were stripped of their citizenship and mass deportations to concentration camps ensued. The Jewish community, that had counted over 200 thousand people in 1938, was all but decimated. More than 130,000 were forced to leave the country, about 65,000 were murdered.

Less than 1,000 managed to survive the catastrophe.

Read more history online: vienna.inyourpocket.com 44 Vienna In Your Pocket

The years following the Revolution of 1848 were quite stable and prosperous for the Jewish community. The presence of the Jews became obvious in the city’s social, economic and political life. Anti-Semitic feelings were formented by many of Vienna’s public officials and politicians, one of the most radical of them being Dr. Karl Lueger, the Mayor of Vienna from 1897 to 1910. Early in the 20th century, twenty-one members of the extreme anti-Semitic All-Deutsche Partei were elected into parliament.

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Jewish Vienna

FREUD IN VIENNA Sigmund Freud lived and worked at Berggasse 19 between 1859 and 1938. When he was in Vienna, Freud’s career as a researcher and theorist was marked by confrontation due to the strong anti-Semitic attitude in Viennese politics and society. Freud did not enjoy much local recognition for his work on psychoanalysis, which was held in low regard and labelled as a ‘Jewish science’.

After the annexation of Austria in 1938 he fled to London, but despite the constant ostracism he experienced in Vienna, he always longed for his former home.

Jewish Museum Vienna Dorotheergasse 11 1010 Vienna Sun – Fri 10 am – 6 pm

Museum Judenplatz Judenplatz 8 1010 Vienna Sun – Thu 10 am – 6 pm, Fri 10 am – 2 pm (during summertime 10 am – 5 pm)

THE JEWISH COMMUNITY TODAY

It took Austria almost fifty years to come to terms and accept its role in the holocaust. Traces of anti-Semitism continued through the 1980s and can still be felt to this day. Not until 1991 did the government finally issue a statement acknowledging their role in the Third Reich. The Jewish population has been growing since the 1950s, primarily due to immigration from Eastern Europe, the former Soviet Union and Iran; today it stands at about 14,000 and there are fifteen synagogues.

The permanent exhibition.

JEWISH SIGHTS

Dorotheergasse 11, 1010 Vienna · www.jmw.at

The Jewish Museum of Vienna is one of the largest in Europe, with locations at Dorotheergasse and Judenplatz.

The Dorotheergasse location uncovers the Jewish history of Vienna throughout the centuries, while at Judenplatz there are the archeological remains of a 500-year old synagogue, and a monument to the Austrian victims of the holocaust.

The Stadttempel at Seitenstettengasse is the only synagogue to survive the war and is open for guided tours. Other Jewish sights include Theodore Herzl Stiege, the stairs named after the father of Zionism, and the monument to the victims of Gestapo at Morzinplatz. The Jewish Welcome Center at Stephansplatz has further information about Jewish life and culture in Vienna.

JÜDISCHES MUSEUM WIEN (JEWISH MUSEUM VIENNA) The first of its kind in the world when it opened, the Jewish Museum Vienna divides its extensive collection of Jewish historical and religious artifacts between two city centre locations. Most of the exhibitions are displayed in the Palais Eskeles at the Dorotheergasse location, while the Judenplatz facility features the foundations of a 15th century synagogue and the medieval Jewish ghetto, as well as Rachel Whiteread’s impressive monument to the 65,000 Austrian Jews who were exterminated during the Holocaust.

The museum was opened in 1896 and more than a century of tumultuous history is lovingly and intricately detailed across the locations. The Jewish population is and has always been immensely vital to the development and cultural life of this great city, and nowhere is that best explored than at the world’s oldest Jewish Museum. QB‑2, Dorotheergasse 11, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 53 50 43 13 10, www.jmw.at.

Open 10:00-18:00. Admission €12/10/8. facebook.com/InYourPocket

MUSEUM JUDENPLATZ

Lady Bluetooth. Hedy Lamarr

© Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer

UNTIL 10.05 » LADY BLUETOOTH: HEDY LAMARR

Young girls growing up all around the world dream of many things, but dominant among them are the dream of being a genius inventor and the seemingly contradictory one of being a drop dead gorgeous movie star. Vienna-born Hedy Lamarr somehow managed to do both, simultaneously being known as the ‘most beautiful woman in the world’ and the person who helped invent bluetooth, a real pioneer in wireless communication.

Lamarr escaped Vienna immediately after the Anschluss and headed to the US, where her film career took off as her inventing one did, and she soon became a real household name. This special exhibition at the Jewish Museum looks at her early years, specifically those spent in Vienna and Berlin.QB‑2, Jüdisches Museum Wien (Jewish Museum Vienna), Dorotheergasse 11, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 53 50 43 13 10, www.jmw.at.

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Shopping

If you’ve got money to spend, you won’t find a shortage of spots in which to spend it in Vienna. | © Brian Kinney

When it comes to shopping, the Vienna scene really runs the gamut from large fashion chains to small boutiques, from designer labels to offbeat artisans. The sheer variety of retailers merits an extended shopping tour, but for those with something more specific in mind, we’ve got a few recommendations on where to start.

FASHION While Vienna definitely has no shortage of major brand names featuring both extravagant luxury collections and informal street-style fashion, we thought that rather than listing the ever-present Benettons, H&Ms and Zaras of the world, we would direct you to some of Vienna’s numerous hidden treasures that sell unique items not to be found on every street corner in every other city. Most of the shops mentioned here are located in the city’s up-and-coming districts where trendy style-conscious people live and work - Freihausviertel, Naschmarkt and Neubau.

ARNOLD’S Jakub Arnold, a former Managing Director with Carhartt’s, opened in 2010 this new edgy boutique in which he offers an eclectic range of appealing fashion labels. In its refurbished splendour, the shop features a wide range of international brands, such as the Japanese premium denim label Edwin Jeans, the American shoe brand Red Wing Shoes, timeless jackets by Carhartt, sunglass collection by RetroSUPERfuture, modern design from denmark named NorseProjects, and much more. With years of experience in the world of fashion, Jakub Arnold has acquired an innate sense for trends and cuts, but above all else, an awareness 46 Vienna In Your Pocket

of his customer’s needs.QF‑3, Siebensterngasse 52, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 923 13 16, www.arnolds.at.

Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun. KARIN KASAJ Unique Italian brands, such as Rinascimento, Sistes or Rich & Royal, await the trendiest fashion-followers at these two locations. You can be assured you’ll be the only lucky one in town to wear these classy outfits - they are shipped directly from Milan. Broad selection of elegant clothing for ladies from business attires to evening dresses. Stylish shirts and jackets for men are also available from their online catalogue.QB‑2, Wollzeile 12, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 513 25 49, www.karinkasaj.at. Open 10:00-18:30; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. MICHAELA ARL DE LIMA Michaela Arl De Lima’s atelier and shop sells finest handcrafted jewellery, and jewellered items such as leather purses and clutchbags. There’s also quirky ‘doggyjewellery’: decorated dog collars and leashes made of leather and tweed.QF‑3, Lindengasse 25, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 676 84 67 70 10, www.michaelaarldelima.com. Open Mon 11:00-17:00; Tue 11:00-18:00; Wed 11:00-17:00; Thu 11:00-18:00; Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; closed Sun.

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Shopping ROLF SHOP WIEN The new ROLF shop wien, housed in a wonderful wooden building, sells very special and fashionable award-winning eyewear, designed and handcrafted in the Tirol region in the Alps. They are produced in-house using natural materials (wood, stone and horn), without any metal or screws. Innovations include the unique wooden hinge and the patented lens-glazing system.

QFranziskanerplatz 3, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 29 84, www.rolf-spectacles.com. Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00-13:00;14:00-18:30; Sat 11:00-17:00; closed Sun, Mon.

FLOWERS SÄDTLER Probably the most exclusive florist in Vienna, Sädtler has supplied beautiful bouquets, wreaths and other floral arrangements for all occasions since the 19th century.

Plants are also in abundance, and deliveries are made throughout the city. The main location next to the Opera house is particularly fascinating – even the decorated window is a wonder to behold.QA‑3, Opernring 13, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 587 42 19, www.saedtler.at. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-17:00; closed Sun.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS AUGARTEN WIEN Augarten porcelain is famous for its delicate and graceful shape and exquisite details. Combining sophisticated craftsmanship, artistic design and the latest technical equipment. Augarten uniquely blends time-honoured tradition with a contemporary approach to art. The finest porcelain is still produced and hand painted at the Augarten Castle.QH‑1, Spiegelgasse 3, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 14 94, www.augarten.at. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. ÖSTERREICHISCHE WERKSTÄTTEN This large showcase store should be on your mustsee list even if you decide not to buy anything. The choice of handmade jewellery, glassware, ceramics and pewter is the largest in Vienna.QB‑2, Kärntnerstrasse 6, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 24 18, www. austrianarts.com. Open 10:00-18:30; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. SWAROVSKI WIEN In the heart of the Austrian capital at Kärntner Strasse 24 a fantastic world of crystal, the fusion of a stunning product spectrum and artistic installations, awaits you. Swarovski Wien entices into a shopping landscape on three levels displaying jewelry, accessories, decor objects and figurines, invites to an exclusive Moët & Chandon Bar and enchants with magical installations from world renowned artists.

QB‑2, Kärntner Strasse 24, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 324 00 00, www.swarovski.com/wien. Open 09:0021:00; Sat 09:00-18:00; closed Sun. facebook.com/InYourPocket

WIENER SILBER MANUFACTUR Wiener Silber Manufactur is a genuine piece of Vienna`s cultural identity, looking back over more than 100 years of history. Ever since, the company sought to collaborate with the most significant designers of its time in order to produce pioneering objects in silver that combine outstanding design with the mastery of silversmith. The company offers classichighlights and icons of Vienna Design around 1900 that captivate with their clear and functional elegance, f.e.

Josef Hoffmann’s revolutionary cutlery no. 135, created in 1902, as well as a range of fascinating contemporary objects by internationally renowned designers such as Zaha Hadid, Wolfgang Joop, Erwin Wurm, and many more.

QB‑2, Spiegelgasse 14, tel. +43 1 513 05 00, www. wienersilbermanufactur.com. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-13:00; closed Sun.

GOURMET FOOD & DRINK JULIUS MEINL AM GRABEN Vienna’s legendary epicurean temple offers chic but pricey foodstuffs on two levels, plus an excellent wine bar and an upmarket restaurant-bar on the upper floor. If you crave for any kind of food hard to get elsewhere in the city, try here.

The café downstairs is quite popular with both locals and tourists.QB‑2, Graben 19, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 532 33 34, www.meinlamgraben.at. Open 08:00-24:00; Sat 09:00-24:00; closed Sun. Restaurant open 08:0024:00, Saturday 09:00-24:00; Wine bar open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun closed; Shop open Mon-Fri 08:0019:30, Sat 09:00-18:00.

SCHÖNBICHLER Purveyors of finest tea, three generations of the Schönbichlers have run this opulent historic tea shop with love and devotion since 1870. Black, green, herbal, white, red, fruit teas, you name it, they’ve got it! It is also one of very few places where you can experience authentic English afternoon tea, or a traditional Japanese tea ceremony. Exclusive liquors, as well as Japanese, Chinese and German porcelain, and even Russian samovars are also sold here.QB‑2, Wollzeile 4, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 513 68 15, www.schoenbichler.at.

TAX-FREE SHOPPING Citizens from outside the EU (and EU citizens resident elsewhere) can save money by claiming a VAT refund for the purchases while in Vienna. The Global Blue tax refund service is easy to use. When buying an item at a shop, ask for a tax refund cheque. At the airport or border show this together with the item in question at the customs desk to get the cheque stamped, and then proceed to the Global Blue Customer desk with your passport for the cash or credit card refund. You’ll get the VAT on these items refunded, minus a commission. For more information see www.global-blue.com.

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Shopping STAUD’S Since 1947, the Staud family has been pampering the Viennese and the world with the most exceptional fruit jams and preserves from this corner store on Yppenplatz and nearby factory on Hubergasse. Hans Staud, the current owner, has been in this business for forty years and still greets customers in his original, though recently revitalized, marmalade emporium. Five million jars of amazing all-fruit preserves, sliced fruit, syrups, chutneys, as well as a huge variety of pickled vegetables are produced and shipped worldwide every year.QE‑2, Brunnengasse/Schellhammergasse, MJosefstädterstrasse, tel. +43 1 406 88 05 21, www. stauds.com. Open Tue, Wed, Thu 08:00-12:30; Fri 08:0012:30;15:30-18:00; Sat 08:00-12:30; closed Sun, Mon. XOCOLAT This city has long been a sweet-tooth’s paradise, but Xocolat with its eye-popping selection of truffles, marzipans, nougats and filled chocolates in every shape and form is about as exclusive as it gets. You are sure to get lured into this place and marvel at the sweet temptation.

Just remember that decadence doesn’t come cheap.QA‑1, Freyung Passage 2, MHerrengasse, tel. +43 1 535 43 63, www.xocolat.at. Open 10:00-18:30; Sun 12:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-18:00.

HOME INTERIOR & DESIGN STILWERK WIEN Germany’s most luxurious chain of one-stop interior design department stores that operates in Berlin, Hamburg and Düsseldorf has finally expanded south and set up a chic design centre in Vienna showcasing 28 stores on four levels.

From bedroom accessories and garden furniture to kitchen decorations and lighting - - find here all you need to make your home or office modern, stylish and comfortable.

Furthermore you can enjoy the best steaks of the town in Argentinean ambiance at „El Gaucho“ Steakhouse.QC‑1, Praterstrasse 1, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 212 06 10 50, www.stilwerk.at. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. TUCHLAUBEN The Lederleitner Home Concept Store offers high-quality souvenirs and gifts, accessories, books, magazines and lifestyle products, contemporary furniture and home decoration ideas for kitchen, living room and bathroom.

QTuchlauben 7a, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 537 11 11, www.lederleitner.at. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:0018:00; closed Sun.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES FREY WILLE Founded right here in Vienna in 1951, Frey Wille has become one of the world’s best-loved contemporary jewellers. Its colourful creations, based on 19th and 20th century works of art are instantly recognisable and can now be bought at more than 90 shops across the globe.

48 Vienna In Your Pocket

The flagship Vienna store at Stephensplatz is as wonderfully understated, elegant and essential as you would expect. As Viennese as Mozart, a visit should be part of every trip to the city.QB‑2, Stephansplatz 5, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 513 48 92, www.freywille.com. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. Also at Albertinaplatz 1/ Lobkowitzplatz 1.

SPECIALTY SHOPS ALTMANN & KÜHNE A real pearl for all chocolate aficionados, Altmann & Kühne sells tiny hand-made sweet sensations, called Liliputkonfekt, that are just way too beautiful to be eaten.

Packed in colourful boxes, these pralines with decadent taste and silky texture will be a special and well-appreciated gift to bring home. Located on Graben for over 100 years, the store used to supply chocolates to His Majesty himself - need we say more?QB‑2, Graben 30, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 533 09 27, www.altmann-kuehne.at. Open 09:00-18:30; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. ALT WIEN KAFFEERÖSTEREI Possibly the only professional coffee roaster in town, Old Vienna lures customers with the irresistible aroma of more than twenty different sorts of coffee roasted and packaged for you right in the premises. From Old Vienna Gold to Jamaican Blue Mountain, a variety of blends would satisfy even the pickiest of the coffee lovers. Aromaprotecting bags will ensure that your coffee remains fresh long after you bring it home.QG‑3, Schleifmühlgasse 23, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 505 08 00, www.altwien.at.

Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. J&L LOBMEYR This unique store was founded in 1823 and has become a real legend on Vienna’s chic Kärntnerstrasse. It specializes in mouth-blown glass, hand-cut glass, hand-painted porcelain and not least in beautiful chandeliers proudly exhibited today at places like the Vienna State Opera, the Kremlin in Moscow and the Metropolitan Opera in New York. Don’t miss the fascinating collection of their glass museum on the third floor.QB‑2, Kärntnerstrasse 26, MStephansplatz, tel. +43 1 512 05 08, www.lobmeyr. at. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; closed Sun.

WINE SHOPS WEIN & CO With eight locations throughout the city, Wein & Co. is Vienna’s largest chain of wine shops and bars. The new flagship store on Mariahilferstrasse boasts a stylish wine bar and a restaurant with business lunch for under €10 on weekdays. Other central branches are at Jasomirgottstrasse 3-5 (M Stephansplatz), Universitätsring 12 (M Schottentor), and Getreidemarkt 1 (M Karlsplatz).

QF‑3, Mariahilferstrasse 36, MNeubaugasse, tel. +43 1 507 063 022, www.weinco.at. Open 10:00-02:00; Sun 15:00-24:00. vienna.inyourpocket.com

Featured: Berlin The vibrant capital city of neighbouring Germany is easy to visit by plane or train from Vienna; should it be your next destination, here are some pointers and tips from our Berlin city guide editor.

BERLIN Maps

Restaurants

Cafés

Nightlife

Sightseeing

Shopping

Events

Berlin February – March 2020

SIGHTSEEING PANORAMAPUNKT It takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator to get shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 24th and 25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans Kollhoff’s magnificent 1930s-inspired building refers to New York’s skyscraping glory days but also resembles the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown.QE‑4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. Viewing platform open 10:00-18:00, cafe open 11:00-17:00. Admission €7.50; family ticket €17.50.

SHOPPING BIKINI BERLIN Right in the heart of West Berlin (directly next to the city’s zoo) is a place that goes beyond conventional architecture, urban planning and run-of-the-mill shopping destinations. We’re talking about Bikini Berlin, of course.

This revitalised destination combines all those aspects of life, you know the ones, work, relaxation, accommodation

inyourpocket.com N°103 - €1.75

Berlin In Your Pocket is the ideal city guide to Germany’s capital. You can download the free PDF guide from berlin.inyourpocket.com, or ask for a copy at upmarket hotels in Berlin or at the tourism office.

and entertainment, and colours it all with unconventional shopping experiences.QD‑4, Budapester Straße 38-50, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 55 49 64 54, www.bikiniberlin.de. Closed Sun.

HOTELS HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely furnished rooms with original wooded floors makes for a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence (Invalidenstraße 122) has a garden with a lawn and goldfish pond for frolicking around in summer.

QTieckstraße 11, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 284 45 50, info@honigmond.de, www.honigmond.de.

24 rooms (singles €95 - 155, doubles €125 - 225). AG

Hotel & Serviced Apartments 10115 Berlin Tieckstraße 11 Tel. +49-30-28 44 55 0 Fax: +49-30-28 44 55 11 www.honigmond.de info@honigmond.de

berlin.inyourpocket.com

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Hotels

© Pakat Suites Hotel

Many of the big, traditional hotels are located near the Ringstrasse, which circles Vienna´s city centre. The room prices that we list are rack rates; the price you pay may be different depending on the season, holidays, weekend offers, and special events.

HOTELS ALTSTADT VIENNA The Altstadt is a meeting place for artists, musicians and travellers looking for a characteristic hotel with good service.

Art can be found all over the hotel, from the reception and the rooms to the exhibitions in the Red Salon. The rooms are all different, with high ceilings, plump floral sofas, classic and designer furniture, honey-coloured parquet floors, unusual lighting and contemporary art. The English-style Red Salon accommodates the superb breakfast buffet as well as a bar, where you can relax by the fireplace.QF‑3, Kirchengasse

LES CLEFS D’OR Concierges that are members of the “Les Clefs d’Or” international concierge association (Union Internationale des Concierges d’Hotel) can be recognised by the crossed gold keys on their lapels. This means that you are dealing with a professionally trained concierge who has built up the skills and contacts to open doors for you throughout the city and indeed the world. They should have a quick reply to any question or request you have.

Hotels that have a concierge who is a Clefs D’Or member are marked with golden keys symbol in this chapter.

50 Vienna In Your Pocket

41, MVolkstheater, tel. +43 1 522 66 66, www.altstadt. at. 42 rooms (singles €119-169, doubles: €139-209, suites €169-369). A­G­T­W BRISTOL The Bristol has welcomed many guests of international standing, and its Bristol Lounge restaurant is well-known for being one of the city’s best. Be sure to request a room with a balcony facing the opera, or book one of the impressive tower suites. QB‑3, Kärntner Ring 1, MKarlsplatz, tel. + 43 1 51 51 60, www.starwoodhotels.com. 150 rooms (doubles €269-364, suites €509-4,400). A­P­G­T­ U­R­W­K­H­F CAPRICORNO At Hotel Capricorno you are ‘life inside’ the centre of Vienna.

The hotel located at the Donaukanal presents itself colourful and cheerful; multi-coloured like life, just a few walking minutes away from St. Stephan’s cathedral. Restaurants, coffees, bars and the nightlife at the ‘Bermuda Triangle’ as well as metro, tram the Twin-City-Liner are just around the corner.

QC‑1, Schwedenplatz 3-4, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 53 33 10 4 0, www.schick-hotels.com. A­P­G­L­W DAS OPERNRING This beautiful hotel located opposite the Staatsoper is the ideal place for anyone with an eye for comfort and taste. The rooms are comfortably furnished, and the service is high quality. Gourmets and party animals just need to descend to the basement, where there’s the restaurant “…said the Butcher to the Cow” as well as the Platzhirsch Club.QA‑3, Opernring 11, MM Karlsplatz, tel. +43 1 587 55 18, www. opernring.at. 47 rooms (singles/doubles €129-149). vienna.inyourpocket.com

Hotels SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

P Air conditioning

H Conference facilities

O Casino

M Nearest U/S-Bahn station

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

R Internet W Wi-Fi

D Sauna

L Guarded parking

C Swimming pool

A Credit cards accepted

DAS TRIEST A comfortable hotel with crisp clean and white rooms, and suiteswith their own little terraces or gardens. Das Triest offers gourmet northern-Italian specialities at its awardwinning Collio restaurant.QG‑3, Wiedner Hauptstrasse 12, MKettenbrückengasse, tel. +43 1 589 18 10, www. dastriest.at. 72 rooms (singles €224, doubles €289, suites €358-585). A­P­G­T­W­K ERZHERZOG RAINER Central located, in the well known ‘Freihausviertel’ and in walking distance to the Vienna State Opera, individual conveniences of the guests are the employee’s most concerns. Viennese charm and outstanding Austrian hospitality await you in 79 rooms and a hotelowned restaurant ‘Wiener Wirtschaft’.QA‑4, Wiedner Hauptstrasse 27-29, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 221 11, www.schick-hotels.com. A­P­G­T­L­W­K­H GRAND HOTEL This hotel is a reminder of the pomp and grandeur that defined the Austrian Empire. If the exterior of the hotel doesn’t awe you, the marble and the exquisite five-star service inside will. QB‑3, Kärntner Ring 9, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 51 58 00, www.grandhotelwien.com. 225 rooms (doubles €239-320, suites €720-2,150). A­P­ G­T­U­W­K­H

Hotel am Parkring

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© Schick Hotels Wien

HILTON VIENNA PLAZA Experienced travellers would always know what to expect from a Hilton, and this one smack in the middle of Vienna next to the university and the stock exchange is no exception. Rooms are traditionally but tastefully decorated. Amenities include two restaurants, a stylish bar, excellent fitness and recreation facilities, as well as a business centre.QB‑1, Schottenring 11, MM Schottentor, tel. +43 1 31 39 00, www.hilton.de/ wienplaza. A­P­G­U HOTEL AM PARKRING The finest views of the city from the highest building along the historic ‘Ringstrasse’. The 55 elegant rooms and suites with roof-deck of this boutique-hotel as well as the gourmet restaurant ‘Das Schick’, all situated in the 11th to 13th floor, guarantee a magnificent panoramic view over the rooftops of Vienna. QC‑2, Parkring 12, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 51 48 00, www.schick-hotels.com. 55 rooms (single/doubles/suites €135-537). A­P­G­L­W­ K­H IMPERIAL One of the finest hotels in town, this is where foreign state visitors reside. Precious antiques and historical details are seamlessly combined with modern comfort in the rooms.

There’s butler service for that hand-ironed newspaper or perfectly prepared bath. It’s also one of the most beautiful buildings on the Ringstrasse, enhanced at night by its facade lighting.QC‑2, Kärntner Ring 16, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 50 11 00, www.starwoodhotels.com. 138 rooms (doubles €359-477, suites €400-5,000). A­P­ G­U­B­R­W­K­H INTERCONTINENTAL This large and modern hotel overlooking the Stadtpark manages to combine Viennese charm with international flair. The well-furnished rooms are of excellent standards, but it’s the impeccable service, the knowledgeable concierge, the Café Vienna in the lobby, the popular Intermezzo American cocktail and oyster bar and the Club Lounge with great views over the city centre that keep businesspeople and tourists alike and coming back again and again.QC‑3, Johannesgasse 28, MStadtpark, tel. +43 1 71 12 20, www.vienna.intercontinental.com. 459 rooms (doubles €179-249, suites €329-479). A­P­G­ U­R­W­K­H­F LE MÉRIDIEN The modern majesty of Le Meridien’s restaurant is reason enough to rendezvous here. The hotel appeals to all your senses, the modern, colourful décor draws you in like a moth to a flame. It is near to just about everything and offers a range of inviting amenities and state of the art facilities, such as fitness facilities, sauna and Jacuzzi.QA‑3, Opernring 13, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 58 89 00, www. starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien. 334 rooms (singles/ doubles €189-409, suites €489-1199). A­P­G­X­U­ B­R­W­K­D­F March – April 2020

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Hotels THE RING One of the most fashionable design hotels, the Ring offers exceptional comfort and casual luxury in every detail.

Check in at a state-of-the-art reception desk, and get whisked up to your stylish room or suite. Venture back out for the Drings bar and the exclusive At Eight restaurant.

QB‑3, Kärtner Ring 8, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 221 22, www.theringhotel.com. 68 rooms (€180-290). A­P­ G­U­W­K

Hotel Stefanie

© Schick Hotels Wien

MELIA VIENNA Perched high up in the Danube City Tower, Austria’s tallest building, the Melia is a designer hotel with chic rooms, great service and restaurants and fabulous views. The business district is at the foot of the building, the city centre a short hop by metro away, and you can while the night away at the unique rooftop bar.QDonau-City-Straße 7, MKaisermühlen/VIC, tel. +43 19 01 04, www.melia. com. Doubles from €125. A­PU ­ ­W­K­H­i PARK HYATT VIENNA This new luxurious hotel occupies a very grand 1915 bank building in the historical city centre. The business facilities here are exceptional, but leisure visitors will also find plenty to their liking, with large rooms, a spa with indoor pool and The Bank restaurant and Pearl bar for winding down.

QA‑1/2, Am Hof 2, MU Herrengasse, tel. +43 1 227 40 12 34, www.vienna.park.hyatt.com.

SACHER The famous Sacher Hotel was first opened in 1876 by Eduard Sacher. Since 1934 the Gürtler family has owned it, working hard to preserve the tradition and elegance.

The hotel is widely known for providing scenery for The Third Man film and for its Sachertorte chocolate cake. The red-clad doormen will usher you inside, where you can admire the imperial grandeur, dating back to the times of Prince Metternich.QB‑3, Philharmonikerstrasse 4, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 51 45 60, www.sacher.com. 152 rooms (doubles €465-678, suites €820-2,540). A­P­ G­R­W­K STEFANIE The oldest hotel of Vienna vouches for 400 years of personal atmosphere. Today, the hotel—only a few minutes’ walk from the 1st district, the historic centre of Vienna — presents itself as a successful combination of old and new.

111 stylish rooms with air conditioning and WLAN (free of charge), three conference rooms, as well as the restaurant ‘Stefanie’ form the framework for a pleasant stay in Vienna.

QC‑1, Taborstrasse 12, MSchwedenplatz, tel. +43 1 21 15 00, www.schick-hotels.com. A­P­G­T­L­W­ K­H 52 Vienna In Your Pocket

THE RITZ-CARLTON, VIENNA Four palatial mansion along Vienna’s Ring have been transformed into the city’s newest top hotel, where historical elements blend in nicely with modern architecture. The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna has everything you’d expect from a 5-star, such as large rooms, restaurants and bars, and a deluxe spa and fitness centre with an 18m-long pool with underwater music.QB‑3, Schubertring 5-7, tel. +43 1 31 18 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. 202 rooms (159 singles/doubles €265-420, 43 suites €575-1,070).

A­P­J­W­K­i VIENNA MARRIOTT HOTEL One of the nicest Marriott hotels we’ve seen on our travels.

In addition to the great service, this particular hotel stands out as it is one of the few with a pool. It is located just across the street from the Stadtpark, a great place to relax.QC‑2, Parkring 12a, MStubentor, tel. +43 1 51 51 80, www. viennamarriott.com. 323 rooms (prices on request).

A­P­G­X­R­W­K­H­C­F

HOSTELS HOSTEL RUTHENSTEINER This friendly and hospitable backpacker’s paradise has provided travellers with an artsy urban oasis for decades.

The family-run hostel’s sweeping bar, unique patio furniture and oversized chess and backgammon sets in the verdant garden area - all handcrafted by avid woodworker-owner Walter - along with the array of musical instruments in the common room, helpful staff, clean facilities and reasonable rates invite visitors to relax and rendezvous.QE‑4, Robert Hamerlinggasse 24, MWestbahnhof, tel. +43 1 893 42 02, www.hostelruthensteiner.com.

WOMBAT’S Wombat’s offers several different types of rooms, from single to six-bed set ups, and also features a great lounge area upstairs and a bar downstairs. There is always an international group of people staying at Wombat’s, so branch out and meet new people.QE‑4, Mariahilferstrasse137, MWestbahnhof, tel. +43 1 897 23 36, www.wombatshostels.com. 80 rooms (doubles €29 per person, triples €25 per person, dorm beds €20). A­R

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Directory DENTISTS DR. ROBERT SCHERNGELL QF‑3, Mariahilferstrasse 128/5, tel. +43 1 522 19 66.

PRIM. DR. HANNES LEMBACHER QB‑2, Rotenturmstrasse 27, tel. +43 1 533 55 81.

DOCTORS DR. GOTTFRIED HÖNLINGER QI‑1, Stuwerstrasse 22, tel. +43 1 728 00 91.

EXPAT SERVICES EXPAT CENTER VIENNA The municipality’s excellent one-stop-shop for all advice expats may need.QG‑2, Schmerlingplatz 3, tel. +43 1 400 08 69 49, www.expatcenter.at. Open 09:00-16:00; Fri 09:00-12:00; closed Sun, Sat.

EMERGENCIES Police Ambulance Fire Department

tel. 133 tel. 144 tel. 122

MOVES CONSULTING QF‑2, Albertgasse 34/8, tel. +43 1 956 58 31, www. moves-consulting.com RANDOS RELOCATION AND OFFICE SERVICE QI‑1, Praterstrasse 66/1/76b, tel. +43 1 71 03 31 80, fax +43 1 710 33 18 34, www.relocation.at.

RECOM RELOCATION COMPANY QHohenauergasse 3/6, tel. +43 1 409 24 62, fax +43 1 406 73 45, www.recom-relocation.at.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

PRIVATE UNIVERSITIES

AMERICAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIENNA American curriculum, 800 students from 60 nations, about 50% Americans, age groups kindergarten and 6-18.

QSalmannsdorfer Straße 47, tel. +43 1 40 13 20, www. ais.at.

KONSERVATORIUM WIEN German and foreign-language courses. 850 students, a third of them international students in 25 academic programs.QH‑3, Johannesgasse 4a, MKarlsplatz, tel. +43 1 51 27 74 70, www.konservatorium-wien.ac.at.

DANUBE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 400 students, age-groups kindergarten and 6-18.QJosef Gall Gasse 2, tel. +43 1 720 31 10, www.danubeschool.at.

LYCÉE FRANÇAIS DE VIENNE Follows the French curriculum for schools abroad.

1800 students, age-groups kindergarten and 6-18.

The kindergarten and primary school are located at Grinzingerstraße 95.QG‑1, Lichtensteinstraße 37a, tel. +43 1 317 22 41, www.lyceefrancais.at.

VIENNA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 1400 students from about 100 nations, age-groups 6-18 years. Admission preference for children of employees of the UN or other international organisations.QStraße der Menschenrechte 1, MKagran, tel. +43 1 20 35 59 50, www.vis.ac.at.

RELOCATION COMPANIES EXECUTIVE RELOCATIONS AUSTRIA (ERA) QF‑2, Stolzenthalergasse 5/2/12, tel. +43 699 11 55 93 24, www.era-relocation.com.

EXPAT CONSULTING REAL ESTATE & RELOCATION SERVICES QB‑2, Graben 7/8, tel. +43 1 32 88 81 80, fax +43 1 328 88 18 60, www.expat-consulting.com. facebook.com/InYourPocket

LAUDER BUSINESS SCHOOL Linked to the Lauder Institute at the University of Pennsylvania, with a Jewish religious background. Programs in International Marketing & Management, Intercultural Business Administration and Intercultural Management and Leadership.QHofzeile 18-20, tel. +43 1 369 18 18, www.lbs.ac.at.

MODUL PRIVATE UNIVERSITY Founded by the Vienna Chamber of Commerce; offers bachelor and master degree programs in the fields of Tourism and Hospitality Management, Public Governance, New Media Technology and Management and Sustainable Development. 250 students.QAm Kahlenberg 1, tel. +43 1 32 03 55 52 02, www.modul.ac.at.

SIGMUND FREUD UNIVERSITY Bachelor and master degree courses in psychology as well as a rare psychotherapy master program. 270 students.

QSchnirchgasse 9a, MErdberg, www.sfu.ac.at.

WEBSTER VIENNA PRIVATE UNIVERSITY Part of a worldwide network of Webster universities offering bachelor, master and MBA degree courses in the fields of business and management, international relations, media communications and psychology. All courses are taught in English.QPraterstrasse 23, MNestroyplatz, tel. +43 1 269 9293 0, www.webster.ac.at.

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Street Register Abelegasse D2 Adolf-Blamauer-Gasse I4 AKH F1 Albertina B2 Alliogasse D3 Alserstraße F1 Altes AKH Campus F1 Am Heumarkt C3 Am Hof B1 Antonigasse E1 Arbeitergasse F4 Arenbergpark I3 Argentinierstraße B4 Arsenal I4 Auer-Welsbach-Park D4 Auf der Schmelz D3 Augarten H1 Auwinkel C2 Babenbergerstraße A3 Bäckerstraße B2 Bankgasse A2 Barichgasse I3 Bauernmarkt B2 Beatrixgasse C3 Beheimgasse E1 Belvedere C4 Belvedergasse H4 Berggasse G1 Bernardgasse E2 Biberstraße C2 Blindengasse E2 Blumengasse E1 Bognergasse B2 Boltzmanngasse G1 Börsegasse A1 Börseplatz A1 Bösendorferstraße B3 Botanischer Garten C4 Brandstätte B2 Brunnenmarkt E2 Burggarten A2 Burggasse E 3-G 3 Burgring A2 Cobdengasse C2 Dampfschiffstraße I2 Danhausergasse B4 Danhausergasse H4 Dinglstedgasse E4 Dominikanerbastei C2 Donaukanal Bundesstraße B 1 Dorotheergasse B2 Dr. Karl Lueger Ring A1 Esterhazygasse F3 Fahnengasse A2 Falkenstraße C2 Färbergasse B1 Fasangasse I4 Favoritenstraße B4 Felberstraße D 4-E 3 Feldgasse F2 Ferdinandstraße C1 Fischerstiege B1 Fleischmarkt B2 Floragasse B4 Florianigasse E 2-F 2 Floßgasse B1 Frankenberggasse B4 Franzenbrückenstraße I1 Franzensgasse A4 Franz-Hochedlinger-Gasse H 1 Franz-Josefs-Kai B1 Fugbachgasse I1 Fugbachgasse I1 Führichgasse B2 Gablenzgasse D 2-E 3 Gartengasse G4 Gaudenzdorfergürtel F4 Geblergasse E1 Getreidemarkt A3 Girardigasse A3 Gluckgasse B2 Goldschlagstraße D 3-E 3 Gonzagagasse B1 Graf Stahemberg Gasse B 4 Griechengasse B1 Grimmgasse D4 Große Mohrengasse C1 Große Naugasse G4

Große Neugasse A4 Große Schiffgasse B1 Große Sperlgasse C1 Grünangergasse B2 Grundsteingasse D 2-E 2 Grünentorgasse G1 Gumpendorferstraße A3 Gumpendorferstraße E 4-G 3 Gußhausstraße B4 Gutenberggasse G2 Haberlgasse E2 Habsburgergasse B2 Hafnersteig C2 Haidgasse C1 Halbgasse E3 Hamerlingpark F2 Hammer-Purgstall-Gasse C 1 Hasnerstraße D2 Hauptallee I1 Haus der Musik B3 Haus des Meeres F3 Heeresgeschichtliches Museum I4 Hegelgasse B3 Heinestraße I1 Heinrichsgasse B1 Heldenplatz A2 Helferstorferstraße A1 Herbststraße D2 Hermanngasse F3 Hernalsergürtel E2 Herrengasse A2 Herrmanngasse E3 Hetzgasse I2 Heumühlgasse A4 Heymerlegasse D2 Himmelpfortgasse B2 Hintere Zollamtsstraße I2 Hofburg A2 Hofmühlgasse F4 Hohenstaufengasse A1 Hollandstraße B1 Hollergasse D4 Hörlgasse A1 Huglgasse D3 Hundertwasserhaus I2 Hütteldorferstraße D 3-E 3 Jakobergasse C2 Jaurèsgasse C4 Johannesgasse C3 Johnstraße D 4-D 3 Jörgerstraße E1 Josefsplatz A2 Josefstädterstraße E 2-F 2 Josef-Strauss-Park E2 Juchgasse I3 Kaiserin-Elisabeth Spital D 3 Kaiserstraße E3 Kalvariengasse E1 Kandlgasse E 3-F 3 Kantgasse B3 Karlskirche B3 Karlsplatz B3 Karmelitergasse C1 Kärntner Ring B3 Kärntnerstaße B3 Karolinengasse C4 Karolinengasse H4 Kegelgasse I2 Kettenbrückengasse A4 Kirchengasse F3 Klagbaumgasse A4 Klagbaumgasse G4 Kleine Mohrengasse C1 Kleine Neugasse A4 Kleine Neugasse G4 Kleine Sperlgasse C1 Kolingasse A1 Kolschitzkygasse H4 Komödiengasse C1 Königsklostergasse A3 Koppstraße D 2-E 2 Köstlergasse A3 Kretinergasse D2 Kreuzgasse E1 Krieglergasse I2 Krongasse A4 Krongasse G4

54 Vienna In Your Pocket

Krugerstraße B3 Krummbaumgasse B1 Kumpfgasse B2 Kundmanngasse I3 Kunsthaus Wien I2 Kunsthistorisches Museum A 3 Künstlerhaus B3 Lagergasse C3 Laimgrubengasse A3 Landesgerichtsstraße F2 Landhausgasse A2 Landskrongasse B2 Landstraßer Gürtel I4 Lange Gasse F2 Lassallestraße I1 Laudongasse E 2-F 2 Lazarettgasse F1 Leopold Figl Gasse A2 Leopold-Ernst-Gasse E1 Leopoldsgasse C1 Leopoldsgasse H1 Lerchenfeldergürtel E2 Lerchenfelderstraße E 2-F 2 Lerchengasse F2 Liebenberggasse C2 Liechtensteinmuseum G1 Liechtensteinpark G1 Liechtensteinstraße G1 Lilienbrunngasse C1 Lindauergasse E2 Lindengasse F3 Liniengasse E 4-F 4 Linke Wienzeile E 4-G 3 Loeschenkohlgasse D3 Löhrgasse E3 Lothringerstraße C3 Löwelstraße A2 Löwengasse I2 Mahlerstraße B3 Mak C2 Marc Aurel Straße B1 Margaretengürtel F4 Margaretenstraße A4 Margaretenstraße F 4-G 3 Mariahilfer Gürtel E4 Mariahilferstraße A3 Mariahilferstraße D 4-G 3 Mariahilferstraße D 4-G 3 Mariannengasse F1 Maria-Theresien-Straße A 1 Markgraf-Rüdiger-Straße E 3 Marxergasse I2 Märzstraße D3 Metternichgasse C4 Millergasse F4 Mittersteig G4 Mollardgasse E 4-F 4 Mostgasse A4 Mostgasse G4 Mozartgasse B4 Museumsplatz A3 Musikverein B3 Naturhistorisches Musem A 2 Negerlegasse C1 Neubaugasse F3 Neubaugürtel E3 Neuer Markt B2 Neulerchenfelderstraße

D 2-E 2 Neulinggasse C3 Neustiftgasse E 2-G 2 Neutorgasse B1 Nordbahnstraße I1 Nußdorferstraße F1 Obere Augartenstraße H1 Obere Donaustraße B1 Oelweingasse D4 Oeverseestraße D3 Oper B3 Opernring A3 Oppolzergasse A1 Ostarichipark F1 Ottakringer Brauerei D2 Ottakringer Straße D 2-E 1 Otto Bauer Gasse F3 Paniglgasse B3 Parkring C2 Parlament A2

Paulanergasse A4 Payergasse E2 Peregringasse A1 Peterskirche B2 Petrarcagasse A2 Pezzlgasse E1 Pfeilgasse E 2-F 2 Piaristengasse F2 Pilgramgasse F 4-G 4 Plankengasse B2 Plößlgasse B4 Porezellangasse G1 Possingergasse D2 Pramergasse G1 Prater I1 Praterstraße C1 Predigergasse C2 Preßgasse A4 Prinz Eugen Straße B4 Radetzkystzraße I2 Rahlgasse A3 Rauchfangkehrergasse D4 Rauhensteingasse B2 Rechte Bahngasse C3 Rechte Wienzeile A3 Rechte Wienzeile F 4-G 3 Reindorfgasse E4 Reinprechtsdorferstraße F 4 Reisnerstraße C3 Reithoferplatz E3 Rembrandtstraße H1 Renngasse A1 Rennweg C4 Riemergasse B2 Rockhgasse A1 Rooseveltplatz A1 Rosenbursenstraße C2 Roßauer Lände G1 Rotensterngasse C1 Rotenturmstraße B2 Rotgasse B2 Rubensgasse A4 Rudolfsplatz B1 Rudolfstiftung I3 Rueppgasse I1 Salesianergasse C3 Salvatorgasse B1 Salzgries B1 Salztorgasse B1 Schallautzerstraße C2 Schauflergasse A2 Schaumburgergasse B4 Schaumburgergasse G4 Schellhammergasse E2 Schellinggasse B3 Schikanedergasse A3 Schleifmühlgasse A3 Schlösslgasse F2 Schlüsselgasse B4 Schmalzhofgasse F3 Schmelzgasse C1 Schmöllergasse B4 Schönbornpark F2 Schönbrunnerstraße E 4-G 3 Schönlaterngasse C2 Schottenbastei A1 Schottenfeldgasse F3 Schottengasse A1 Schottenring A1 Schrankgasse F3 Schubertring B3 Schulerstraße B2 Schwarzenbergplatz B3 Schwarzenbergstraße B3 Schwedenplatz C1 Schweizer Garten I4 Schwindgasse B4 Sechshauser Straße E 4-D 4 Seidengasse E 3-F 3 Seilergasse B2 Seilerstätte B2 Sensengasse F1 Siebenbrunnengasse G4 Siebensterngasse F3 Sigmund Freud Museum G 1 Singerstraße B2 Skodagasse F2 Sonnenfelsgasse B2

Spanische Hofreitschule A 2 Spengergasse F4 Spiegelgasse B2 Spitalgasse F1 Stadtpark C2 Stanislausgasse I3 Stephansdom B2 Stephansplatz B2 Stiftgasse F3 Stohlberggasse G4 Stollgasse E 3-F 3 Strauchgasse A2 Straußengasse A4 Straußengasse G4 Strohgasse C3 Strozzigasse F2 Stubenring C2 Stumpergasse E 3-F 4 Taborstraße C1 Tandelmarktgasse C1 Taubstummengasse B4 Technisches Museum Wien

D4 Teinfaltstraße A1 Thaliastraße D 2-E 2 Theater in der Josefstadt F 2 Theresianum H4 Theresianumgasse B4 Thurngasse G1 Tiefer Graben B1 Tigergasse F2 Tuchlauben B2 Türkenstraße G1 Ungargasse I3 Universität A1 Untere Augartenstraße H 1 Untere Donaustraße C1 Untere Weißgerberlände I 2 Urania C1 Uraniastraße C1 Vereinsgasse I1 Veronikagasse E 2-E 1 Vogelweidplatz E3 Volksgarten A2 Vordere Zollamtsstraße I2 Vorlaufstraße B1 Votivkirche A1 Währinger Straße A1 Währingergürtel E2 Walfischgasse B3 Walkürengasse D3 Waltergasse B4 Wasagasse G1 Wattgasse D2 Webgasse F 3-F 4 Wehrgasse A4 Wehrgasse G4 Weihburggasse B2 Weintraubengasse C1 Weißgerberlände I2 Werdertorgasse B1 Westbahnhof E3 Westbahnstraße E 3-F 3 Weyringergasse H4 Wichtelgasse D2 Wickenburggasse F2 Wiedner Gürtel H4 Wiedner Hauptstraße A4 Wiener Konzerthaus C3 Wiener Naschmarkt A3 Wiesingerstraße C2 Winkelmannstraße D4 Wipplingerstraße A1 Witzelsbergerstraße D3 Wohllebengasse B4 Wollzeile C2 Yppenpark E2 Zaunergasse C3 Zentagasse G4 Ziegelofengasse A4 Ziegelofengasse G4 Zieglergasse F3 Zinckgasse E3 Zirkusgasse C1 Zollergasse F3

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Index 1019 Jazzclub 34 1516 35 Albertina 39 Al Fayrooz 29 Altmann & Kühne 48 Altstadt Vienna 50 Alt Wien Kaffeerösterei 48 Amacord 21 Architekturzentrum Wien 39 Arnold’s 46 Augarten Wien 47 Bangkok Vienna 30 Bank Austria Kunstforum Wien

40 Barfly's Club 32 Beaulieu 27 Beim Czaak 22 Belvedere 36 Beograd 26 Bettelstudent 22 Bikini Berlin 49 Bitzinger Würstelstand 31 blueorange 31 Bogside Inn 35 Brasserie Stadtboden 27 Bristol 50 Bristol Lounge 26 Burger Bros 24 Café Central 20 Cafe Diglas 20 Café Europa 33 Café Hawelka 21 Café Landtmann 21 Café Prückel 21 Café Sacher 21 Café Sperl 21 Capricorno 50 Casino Wien 33 Celeste 34 Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant 32 Charlie P's Irish Pub 35 Cuadro 21 Da Capo 28 Da Ferdinando 28 Dancing Shiva Superfoods 30 Danube Tower Vienna 36 Das Kolin 27 Das Loft 27 Das Opernring 50 Das Schick 26 Das Triest 51 Das Werk 34 Demel 21

58 Vienna In Your Pocket

Der Pfarrwirt 22 Do & Co 26 Donau 32 Dots 25 Down Under 35 Dual 34 Durchhaus 22 El Gaucho 24 Erzherzog Rainer 51 Fabios 29 Figlmüller 23 Figls 23 Flanagans 35 Flex 34 Fluc 34 Freiraum 34 Frey Wille 48 Gemäldegalerie der Akademie der bildenden Künste Wien 40 Gorilla Kitchen 31 Grand Hotel 51 Grelle Forelle 34 Hammond Bar 32 Haus des Meeres 38 Heeresgeschichtliches Museum 40 Heuer 27 Hilton Vienna Plaza 51 Hofburg 37 Hofmobiliendepot 40 Honigmond & Garden Hotels

49 Hostel Ruthensteiner 52 Hotel Am Parkring 51 Hundertwasser-Krawinahaus

37 Ilona Stueberl 27 Il Sestante 28 Imperial 51 InterContinental 51 Irrgarten Schönbrunn (Labyrinth) 37 J&L Lobmeyr 48 Johnny’s Pub 35 Jüdisches Museum Wien 45 Julius Meinl am Graben 47 Kaiserliche Schatzkammer Wien 40 Karin Kasaj 46 Kleinod 32 Kuishimbo 29 Kunsthalle Wien 40 Kunsthaus Wien 40 Kunsthistorisches Museum 41

Künstlerhaus Wien 41 Kunstraum Niederoesterreich

41 La Mia 28 Le Bol 27 Le Méridien 51 Lemmon 35 Leopold Museum 41 Lisboa Lounge 30 Loos Bar 33 Lugeck 23 Luster Bar 33 Madame Tussauds 42 MAK – Museum of Applied Arts 42 Mama Liu & Sons 25 Maschu Maschu 30 Mast 33 Matiki Bar 33 Medusa 27 Melia Vienna 52 Mercado 29 Michaela Arl de Lima 46 Motto am Fluss 27 Mozarthaus Vienna 42 Mumok 42 Museum auf Abruf 42 Museum of Illusions 42 MuseumsQuartier Wien 37 Naturhistorisches Museum 43 ON 25 Österreichische Werkstätten 47 Palmenhaus 23 Panoramapunkt 49 Park Hyatt Vienna 52 Parlor 28 Pars 30 Patara 30 Phil 21 Pizza Mari 28 Plachutta 23 Porgy & Bess 35 Ra'mien 34 Ra’mien 25 Reinthalers Beisl 24 Restaurant Stefanie 24 Ribs of Vienna 24 Riesenrad 38 Rochus 34 ROLF shop wien 47 Sacher 52 Sädtler 47 Saigon 26 Salonga 30

Santos 30 Sass Club 34 Schikaneder 33 Schlossquadrat 28 Schloss Schönbrunn 38 Schönbichler 47 Secession 43 Shanghai Tan 26 Shebeen 35 Siam 30 Silberwirt 24 Sing Your Song 35 Sole 28 Spanische Hofreitschule 38 Spear 28 Staud's 48 Steakpoint 24 Stefanie 52 Steirereck 26 Stephansdom 38 stilwerk Wien 48 Swarovski Wien 47 Swing Kitchen 31 Technisches Museum Wien 38 TGI Fridays 24 Theatre Museum 43 The Ring 52 The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna 52 Third Man Museum 43 Tian 31 Tuchlauben 48 Türkis 31 Unkai 29 Vegetasia 31 Vienna Marriott Hotel 52 Villon 33 Volksgarten 34 Wein & Co 48 Weinschenke 25 Weltmuseum Wien 43 Westlicht Museum 43 Wiener Deewan 30 Wiener Silber Manufactur 47 Wiener Wirtschaft 24 Wien-Ticket Pavillon 12 Wombat’s 52 Wrenkh 31 Xocolat 48 Yamm!

31 ZOOM Kindermuseum 38 Zum Schwarzen Kameel 26 Zum Weißen Rauchfangkehrer

24

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T H E FA S T E S T C O N N E C T I O N BETWEEN VIENNA CITY CENTER A N D T H E A I R P O R T. 16 M I N .