Vilnius In Your Pocket by In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Vilnius August - November 2017

Scenic city

Viewpoints to capture the Old Town

Verkiai

A hauntingly grand day out

Jewish Vilna inyourpocket.com N°122 - €1

How a once-thriving community was created

Contents / Foreword

Vilnius in 48 Hours

Arriving & Getting Around

Where to get off and how to stay afloat

Vilnius Basics

History

What’s On

Art, photography and the rest

Restaurants

Liepāja

Discover neighbouring Latvia’s hip seaside city

Jewish Vilnius

Views of Vilnius

Trakai

Lithuania’s former capital uncovered

Shopping

Leisure

Health

Cafés

Directory

Nightlife

Hotels

The capital’s kitchens in all their glory

Where to party in Vilnius

A grand day out at Verkiai

Sightseeing

A comprehensive guide

The Old Town from the air

facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

Maps & Index City centre map City map Street register / Index of venues Lithuania map

100 - 101 102 - 103 104 - 105 106

August - November 2017

Cover Story When you’re strolling through the Old Town, enjoying its lively cafés and bars and its choice of excellent restaurants, spare a thought for its incredible history and the residents who over the centuries have survived the ebb and flow of mighty armies, invasions and occupations, from Napoleon’s doomed Grande Armée to the repressive tsarist era to the murderous regimes of Hitler and Stalin. Before the two world wars, the city of Vilnius was 40% Jewish, 30% Polish, 21% Russian, 2% Lithuanian. Today, the city is 63% Lithuanian, 17% Polish, 12% Russian, 0.4% Jewish. The Jewish Vilnius and Verkiai features in this issue tell more about the ghosts of the past. In this guide you'll find the best of what to do, see, eat and drink. We have feature articles on culture, customs, sports, where to travel in Lithuania, plus some pointers on local food. We also have a list of what's on. The print guide is published three times a year, available at selected hotels, bookshops and kiosks. Don't forget to check out Lithuania's other cities Kaunas and Klaipėda and the sandy coastal resorts Palanga and Nida. Visit our facebook page to get the latest updates, and download our new free In Your Pocket travel app for IOS and Android.

COVER STORY Though Gediminas Castle and hill have been open only sporadically in recent months, views of it and the rest of Vilnius’ labyrinthine Old Town can be found from a number of viewpoints (see Views of Vilnius feature).

Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket Bernardinų 9 - 4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 52 12 29 76 vilnius@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1392-0057 ©UAB “VIYP” Printed by UAB “Lietuvos ryto” spaustuvė three times per year Editorial Editor Howard Jarvis Researcher Eglė Bielinytė; Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman Cover photo © Laimonas Ciūnys Sales & Circulation Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket General Manager Milda Povilaitienė Sales Manager Agnė Jočytė Marketing Manager Ermita Žalienė Accounting VšĮ “ACORDO” Sales information tel. (+370) 61 04 68 64 Distribution tel. (+370) 61 85 56 00 This guidebook and all of our other Lithuanian guides are available for sale from kiosks, tourist information centres, the Vilnius In Your Pocket office and other outlets throughout Vilnius and Lithuania as well as online at www.inyourpocket.com. Complimentary copies of Vilnius In Your Pocket are also available in many hotels.

Maps are the property of UAB IYP. Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP 1992-2017; some photos, LATGA-A; maps, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 52 12 29 76).

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4 Vilnius In Your Pocket

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Vilnius in 48 Hours With so much to see and do, there’s no reason to squeeze a stay in the Lithuanian capital to just two days. But if you’re time-challenged, here’s how to get the most out of it. DAY 1 - OLD TOWN With our Vilnius Centre map as a guide, start your stroll in front of the gleaming façade of the Cathedral, with a peek inside at the Baroque St Casimir’s Chapel on the right at the back. Walk across the square to meet Grand Duke Gediminas searching for his horse, then into the park to find the path that winds around Gediminas Hill (if it’s open; due to subsidence the hill may be closed). Snap a few photos on the viewing platform at the top of the castle before retracing your steps down to the park. Feeling active enough to climb to another viewpoint? Find the footbridge over the Vilnia and climb the sandy steps to the Three Crosses. Either way, green and serene Bernadine Park leads around the back of picture-perfect Gothic red-brick St Anne’s and Bernadine churches. Over the road, the Amber Museum is a brilliant introduction to the mysterious ancient sap. Pilies Street is great for shopping, or for lunch or a snack if you’re feeling peckish. Forto Dvaras makes an entertaining stop for local cuisine. In a courtyard further up the hill is Balta Balta, selling handcrafted products by local artists with ecological materials and natural dyes. Latako will then take you down to the self-proclaimed artists’ republic of Užupis, its angel statue, witty nailed-to-thewall constitution and countless galleries, cafés and quirky details. Don’t be afraid to peer into people’s courtyards. Back on Didžioji Street, either via steps from the occasionally busy Tymo Market to the Bastion or crossing Bokšto, head south to go Baroque hopping between churches while getting diverted to shops selling linen, amber, glass, clay and other souvenirs. See the Basilian Gate with its all-seeing eye, the three mummified saints inside the Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit, St Theresa’s glorious interior if it’s open, and then reverently climb steps through a streetside door, on the left towards the top of Aušros Vartų Street, to come face-to-face with the miraculous image of the Virgin Mary and her many silver hearts inside the Gates of Dawn. After all this sightseeing it’s time for dinner, wine and local beer. The Old Town has dozens of stylish upmarket restaurants in the vicinity like the fish-centric Žuvinė at the back of the Town Hall, but if you’re looking for something more affordable try the authentic Italian food at Sorrentino on Aušros Vartų or homely Namai on Subačiaus. Cosy bars line the way too, like Dirty Duck, or the wine bar Notre Vie. Alternative bars lie close to the Gates of Dawn too, like Bukowski, Kablys and Peronas. DAY 2 - OLD TOWN AND BEYOND Now it’s time to look at Vilnius in a bit more depth, with glances at its enlightened past and also at more troubled times. Vilnius University is fascinating with its maze of courtyards and corridors, which you’re free to explore though you may be charged a small fee at either of its facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

entrances (Universiteto or Šv Jono streets; it’s closed on Sundays). This grand old dame is almost 440 years old and despite periods of closure and repression it’s professors and students have persisted with their studies for centuries. In the upper courtyard, take a snap of the gorgeous façade of the Church of Sts John and take a look inside, before whizzing up the separate Belltower in the lift for marvellous Old Town views. In the lower courtyard, buy a tome in the beautifully adorned Littera bookshop and, nearby, take pictures of the amazing murals found in an entrance to the left of the shop. Next wander lanes like Gaono, Zydu and Stikliu with their tiny shops and cafés for a sense of the once huge Jewish community tragically annihilated during the war. There used to be so many prayer houses, synagogues and workshops where trades like glassblowing were practiced. Nearby, Vokiečių Street is loaded with cafés and restaurants for every budget. After you’ve eaten, pass Baroque St Catherine’s to find two museums presenting grim but essential insights into Lithuania’s recent past. The Holocaust Museum, set inside a green wooden house up a tiny lane from Pamėnkalnio, is as much about the once thriving Jewish communities as the calamitous way they were lost. A little further on, the Genocide Museum, set within the former cells of the much-feared KGB building, reveals in chilling detail the brutal way the Soviets treated political prisoners until well into the late 1980s. In the square opposite stood a gigantic Lenin until it was removed by crane to cheering crowds in 1991. But now you’re free – to wander up and down central Gedimino Prospect at will. Westwards will take you past restaurants and upmarket clothes stores to the angular Parliament building and over the River Neris to Žvėrynas, whose grid of leafy streets and occasional tumbledown wooden houses are fun to explore. To eat here, try Panama, or walk back down Gedimino for tasty grub at Carre or big burgers at Boom Burgers, then beers at Craft & Draft and cocktails in Paparazzi (reopening in late September). August - November 2017

Arriving & Getting Around

Tree-lined Gedimino Avenue by night | © Matas Jankauskas Virš Visko

VILNIUS AIRPORT VILNIUS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (TARPTAUTINIS VILNIAUS ORO UOSTAS) Vilnius International Airport, situated approximately 5km south of the city centre, is small and relatively easy to use. A restaurant and bar can be found above the main entrance for fond farewells and devilishly expensive cognac. A limited hotchpotch of Duty Free shops and cafés are located the other side of customs control. Free wireless internet is available throughout the airport. To get there by bus (see Public transport for information on tickets), take Nº3G from Lukiškių Aikštė (Juozo Tumo-Vaižganto stop), Nº88 or nightbus Nº88N (Arkikatedra stop), or Nº1 from the train station. You can also use the shuttle train service that departs from the train station every 30 minutes between around 06:00 and 21:30. Buy a ticket on board the train for just €0.72. A taxi from Old Town currently costs around €15 using a hotel-booked firm, although you can pay considerably less if you can get a friendly local to order you one from a cheaper company. By calling the right company in advance (try tel. (+370) 52 66 66 66) a recent visitor to the city managed to make the trip for just €5.QRodūnios Kelias 2, tel. (+370) 61 24 44 42, www.vno.lt. Open 24hrs. 6 Vilnius In Your Pocket

ARRIVING IN VILNIUS The three main points of arrival in Vilnius offer very different experiences indeed, making your first few minutes in the city anything from a pleasure to a pain. Improvements are taking place all the time. Print copies of Vilnius In Your Pocket can be bought from kiosks inside the airport, bus and train stations for just €1. BY BUS Vilnius’ bus station (autobusų stotis) is located less than 1km south of Old Town in a less than salubrious, albeit perfectly safe area. Most facilities are located inside one large grey building and include kiosks and shops for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards, downstairs toilets (€0.40) and ATMs. For 24-hour currency exchange, use the Medicinos bank across the street and just to the right of the train station. A bagažinė for left luggage is located outside at the far end of the platforms. Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by turning left on exiting the station and walking down the hill (Sodų). Countless buses, minibuses and trolleybuses can be found in the immediate area, all going off in different directions around the city and none of them offering a lot of help for people who don’t speak Lithuanian. Among the useful services going through the city centre are trolleybus Nº2 and bus Nº1G. Buy a ticket from the driver for €1, punch it in the ticket puncher, and off you go. Taxis are parked here and there. Be sure to negotiate a fare before you leave. Expect to pay €6 or even more for a short trip to Old Town. Calling one in advance is the best option. vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around BY PLANE Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus Oro Uostas) is just 5km south of the city centre. Even if you’re landing from a non-Schengen country, arrival formalities are quick and relatively straightforward. After collecting your luggage enter through the electric sliding doors into the Arrivals Hall, an experience which is not unlike stepping into the ticket hall of 19th-century provincial train station. There you’ll find a kiosk for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards, ATMs, currency exchange offices and a small tourist information kiosk. Toilets are to the left, and car rental companies to the right. Getting to town A taxi to Old Town using one of the vehicles parked outside the arrivals terminal will cost about €15 or possibly considerably more depending on the cheek of the driver. Calling one in advance will cost a lot less. If you don’t know how to do it yourself ask the people in the tourist information kiosk to order one for you. If you’re travelling to the city centre and want to save a small fortune, take public transport. Bus Nº88 goes to the Old Town (also at nights), Nº1 goes to the train station and rapid bus Nº3G to Lukiškių Aikštė (Juozo TumoVaižganto stop) and north over the river past the Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva. The bus stop is to the left of the taxi stand, and timetables are posted at the stop. Buy a ticket from the driver for €1, punch it in the ticket puncher, and off you go. Alternatively, hop on a train and in less than 10 minutes be at the train station in the centre of the city. Buy a ticket on board for just €0.72. The airport train station can be found along the road outside the main exit and on the left. Trains leave every hour or so from around 06:00 until 21:30, with a journey time of just seven minutes.

For business or leisure, rent your car with Sixt. (Sixt has it all. Check sixt.lt for your best deal) For reservations: www.sixt.lt or call +37 05239 5636

AIRPORT TRAIN SCHEDULE From Vilnius Dep. Arr. 06:41 06:48 07:45 07:52 08:55 09:02 10:00 10:07 11:00 11:07 11:45 11:52 12:48 12:55 13:30 13:37 14:06 14:13 14:50 14:57 16:05 16:12 16:57 17:04 17:55 18:02 19:20 19:27 20:25 20:32 22:10 22:17

Destination AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT AIRPORT

To Vilnius Dep. Arr. 07:00 07:08 08:02 08:10 09:14 09:22 10:14 10:22 11:12 11:20 11:57 12:05 13:00 13:08 13:42 13:50 14:18 14:26 15:05 15:13 16:17 16:25 17:12 17:20 18:12 18:20 19:37 19:45 20:42 20:50 22:26 22:34

Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. More information at www.litrail.lt Valid until November 30, 2017. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

August - November 2017

Arriving & Getting Around LOCAL BUS SCHEDULE BIRŠTONAS 06:15, 07:20, 09:30, 10:40, 12:35, 13:25, 14:40, 16:10, 18:10 DRUSKININKAI 07:20, 08:40, 09:35, 10:00, 11:00, 12:10, 13:05, 14:20, 15:40, 16:15, 17:10, 18:20, 18:40, 20:30 KAUNAS 05:45, 06:20, 6:40, 07:00, 07:45, 08:10, 09:00, 09:30, 09:45, 10:00, 10:45, 13:20, 13:45, 14:00, 15:50, 16:25, 17:00, 17:15, 19:20, 23:00 KLAIPĖDA 06:00, 06:40, 07:50, 08:50, 10:35, 11:35, 14:50, 23:00 PALANGA 08:50, 14:50, 23:00 PANEVĖŽYS 06:10, 06:30, 07:05, 07:50, 08:25, 11:10, 11:30, 12:50, 15:00 (Sun), 16:00 (Sun), 16:30, 17:00. TRAKAI 06:25, 10:30, 13:10, 16:35 Valid until November 30, 2017. Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. The website at www.autobusubilietai.lt is the best resource for up-to-date, accurate information about travelling by bus in Lithuania. BY TRAIN The train station (geležinkelio stotis) is fairly large by local standards. Find kiosks and shops for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards scattered in and around the building, toilets, ATMs and a 24-hour Medicinos bank outside to the left for changing money. Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by going straight ahead on exiting the station and walking down the hill (Sodų). The train station is just across the street from the bus station. See By bus for more information about getting to the centre by public transport.

CAR RENTAL Offices representing all of the major international car rental companies can be found in Vilnius alongside a few local businesses of varying standards. All types of vehicle are represented, with many companies also offering chauffeur services. Most major driving international licences are accepted. SIXT RENT A CAR (AIRPORT) Rent a Sixt car at Vilnius airport or city office (next to bus station) and you’ll have the freedom to travel to the city and enjoy touring the surrounding area too. Sixt has a wide choice of vehicles, from cheaper options to luxury ranges, all of which are reliable with great service.QRodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 52 39 56 36, www.sixt.lt. Open 24hrs. A 8 Vilnius In Your Pocket

SIXT RENT A CAR (DOWNTOWN) QSodų 14, tel. (+370) 52 46 13 84, www.sixt.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SOLORENT With rental offices giving professional 24-hour service at the airports in Vilnius, Kaunas, Palanga and Riga, as well as in Klaipėda, Solorent specialises in car rental, leasing and personal drivers. With an up-to-date fleet, a variety of car models and types and nothing less than three years old, you can’t go wrong with this company.QRodūnios kelias 2, tel. (+370) 64 74 71 49, www.solorent.lt/en. Open 24hrs.

LONG-DISTANCE BUSES All long-distance national and international buses leave from Vilnius’ main bus station (autobusų stotis). Although tickets for many journeys can be bought directly from the driver it’s worth getting one in advance at no extra cost. The ticket office for national bus services is located inside the waiting room. International tickets can be bought from several different outlets found scattered around the building as well as from a number of travel agencies in the city. Backpackers and other travellers on a budget from Western Europe might be surprised to learn that bus travel in Lithuania is more expensive than using the train. BUS STATION (AUTOBUSŲ STOTIS) The city’s bus station is very central, just to the south of the Old Town. It’s not the prettiest building in Vilnius but it’s always efficient.QI‑12, Sodų 22, tel. 1661, www.toks. lt. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Ticket office open 06:00 - 19:00. JA ECOLINES The Lithuanian outfit of the large European network provides all the usual transport services including cheap bus journeys in the region and further afield. Other things include insurance, visas, tourism services and bus rental.QI‑12, Geležinkelio 15, tel. (+370) 52 13 33 00, www.ecolines.net. Open 08:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:30, Also at Vytauto 27, Kaunas, tel. (+370) 37 20 20 22. A

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Served by a chugging and buzzing network of hardworking buses and trolleybuses, the capital’s public transport services wake up at around 5am and continue through the day before stopping not much later than 11pm. A nightbus service now operates on Friday and Saturday nights up until around 3am, as well as on New Year’s Eve and one or two other special occasions. Getting about is cheap, and relatively easy. If you haven’t bought a ticket from a kiosk, buy one directly from the driver, then validate it by punching it in the punching machine. Public transport can be very crowded during peak hours, allowing you to rub up close against the locals. vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around BUSES & TROLLEYBUSES All buses and trolleybuses in Vilnius are owned and operated by the Municipality. Paper tickets for single journeys are no longer available from kiosks and can only be bought from the driver, with the fare currently priced at €1 for a single journey on one vehicle. Unless you plan on spending a lot of time using public transport whilst in Vilnius, this relatively simple system should be more than adequate although it’s worth mentioning the alternative, namely the Vilniečio Kortelė, an electronic ticket available for €1.50 from kiosks around town. Technically a brilliant idea, the Vilniečio Kortelė is a bit confusing in reality due to the variety of credits it’s possible to add to it. The two most useful topup options, available at kiosks around the city, are to top up with either journeys lasting for up to 30 minutes at €0.64 a trip or up to 60 minutes for €0.93. These can then be used easily by holding the card against the yellow machine on all buses and trolleybuses which automatically take the fare off the card. Alternatively, put any amount you choose on the card and select which length journey you want when using the machine on board the vehicle. Other options are available for tickets valid from one to 270 days, although we recommend you get a local to help you if choosing one of these. You can find out all you need to know about schedules online at www.vilniustransport.lt and more about the Vilniečio Kortelė at www.vilniusticket.lt.

INTERNATIONAL BUS SCHEDULE From Vilnius Dep. Arr. 14:30 06:40 14:30(1) 16:45 14:30 02:30 07:00 11:07 21:30 01:50

Destination BERLIN COLOGNE POZNAŃ RIGA RIGA

To Vilnius Dep. Arr. 20:30 14:50 10:15(3) 14:50 00:30 14:50 02:10 07:00 16:20 21:00

12:50 19:30 16:15 06:35 15:40 22:30 05:25 19:30

ROME STUTTGART TALLINN TALLINN WARSAW WARSAW WARSAW VIENNA

13:00(2) 08:00(4) 11:30 21:30 04:30 10:50 20:20 08:30(5)

21:15(7) 14:30(2) 07:00 21:30 07:00 14:30 21:00 21:15(7)

08:40 14:50 21:30 07:00 14:50 21:30 07:00 08:40

APPS TO RIDE TRAFI, FOR PUBLIC TRANSPORT Vilnius’ bus and trolleybus network is incredibly easy to use, as long as you buy a ticket from a kiosk or the driver, then punch it in the puncher to validate it. To plan your route on public transport, an app for your smartphone makes things even easier. A great tool for advance planning, the app, which is also in English, figures out how to get from A to B. Just type in your starting point (ordinary letters also count for tricky Lithuanian letters) and destination or pin the locations on a map, and it will immediately give you a choice of times for transport plus any manageable short distances you can do on foot. Often your ticket can be used on a second bus or trolleybus if the validator prints the date and time, and the app will tell you if this is possible. The app is free, works brilliantly and also does the job in Kaunas, Klaipėda, Šiauliai and Panevėžys. TAXIFY AND ETAKSI If you don’t have the patience for public transport and need to travel quickly, there are a couple of nifty apps for ordering taxis. Taxify allows you to compare rates, arrival times, even car models, letting you send for the cab of your choice to your location without you having to chat to anyone on the phone. Drivers have to register to create a profile, so there should be no funny business. Similarly, eTaksi allows you to quickly tap in where you are, where you want to get to and how many people are going, then shows you where your taxi is, even as it’s arriving. Ooh, the wonders of technology.

Days of the week (1=Monday) 1 2 - 4 5 6 - | (2) - 2 - - - - - | (3) 1- 3 4 - 6 7 | (4) - 2 - - 5 - (5) - - 3 - - 6 - | (6) - - 3 - - - 7 | (7) 1 - - 4 - - (1)

Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. Not all services listed. More information at www.eurolines.lt Valid until November 30, 2017. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

Tech-driven city

August - November 2017

Arriving & Getting Around TAXIS EKIPAŽAS Qtel. 1446, www.ekipazastaksi.lt. €0.58/km. JAZZEXPRESS Qtel. 1428, en.jazzexpress.lt. €0.72/km. SMART TAXIQtel. 1820/(+370) 52 00 08 20, www.smarttaxi.lt. €0.69/km. STANDART TAXIQtel. (+370) 52 40 00 04/1422, www.standart-taksi.lt. €0.67/km.

TRAIN SCHEDULE Dep. 07:58 04:40(1) 04:45 06:20 07:30 09:04 10:53 11:30 15:00 16:45 17:55 18:48 19:25 06:45 09:45 16:40 17:40 01:51(2) 7:15 15:58 19:10 20:10 20:10 04:50 07:40 12:35 18:12 20:45

Arr. 13:48 05:56 06:22 07:37 08:53 10:40 12:10 13:06 16:33 18:28 13:23 20:27 20:46 11:02 13:57 20:44 21:57 06:10 09:45 18:45 21:40 00:26 09:10 05:28 08:17 13:13 18:51 21:24

Destination KALININGRAD KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KLAIPĖDA KLAIPĖDA KLAIPĖDA KLAIPĖDA MINSK MINSK MINSK MINSK MINSK MOSCOW TRAKAI TRAKAI TRAKAI TRAKAI TRAKAI

Dep. 13:47 05:02(3) 05:20 06:23(1) 07:15 09:45 10:55 14:40 16:10 17:21 19:10 20:10 21:49 06:40 10:30 16:05 17:57 03:00 08:00 10:00 19:52 21:44(4) 17:20 05:45 08:37 13:38 19:51 21:40

Arr. 18:35 06:31 06:59 07:38 08:47 11:11 12:34 15:49 17:44 19:00 20:43 21:36 23:05 10:52 14:36 20:17 22:01 07:23 10:30 13:42 22:22 02:14 07:23 06:24 09:16 14:17 20:30 22:19

¹ Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri. ² Sat, Sun. ³ Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat. ⁴ Mon, Wed, Sun. Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. More information at www.litrail.lt Valid until November 30, 2017. 10 Vilnius In Your Pocket

Hustle and bustle at the train station

TRAINS Vilnius’ main train station (geležinkelio stotis) handles services to a number of destinations within Lithuania as well as international trains to Belarus, Russia and Latvia. Most tickets can be bought from a row of kiosks to the right of the main entrance. Tickets for international trains can also be purchased from a small office inside and immediately to the left of the main entrance. The general rule is that tickets stop being sold 10 minutes before a train is due to depart. With the exception of some international services, tickets can be bought on board trains from the conductor for which a €1.45 commission is charged. TRAIN STATION (GELEŽINKELIO STOTIS) Buses are usually quicker, more flexible and more popular than trains in Lithuania, but rail services to some places, such as Kaunas, are generally excellent.QI‑12, Geležinkelio 16, tel. (+370) 70 05 51 11, www.litrail.lt. Ticket office open 24hrs. J

TOURIST INFORMATION VILNIUS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER (GO VILNIUS, VŠĮ) Tour bookings for groups and individuals, audio guides, Vilnius City Card, maps, tourist-related publications, cultural events (www.vilnius-events.lt), taxis and accommodation booking. English-, German-, Polish- and Russian-speaking staff. See the extensive website for more information.QH‑9, Vilniaus 22, tel. (+370) 52 62 96 60, fax (+370) 52 62 81 69, www. vilnius-tourism.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Also at Didžioji 31 (Town Hall), Rodūnios Kelias 2-1 (Vilnius International Airport). JAW vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Vilnius Basics ALCOHOL Lithuanian beer (alus) is among the best in the world. Without doubt. Test as many as you can before settling on a regular brand! The big names are Švyturys from Klaipėda, Utenos from Utena and Kalnapilis from Panevėžys, but there are loads of smaller varieties to try. Visit a microbrewery (see Nightlife) or go for a selection from your nearest menu. Lithuanian beers tend to be stronger than their Western counterparts, making the forming of the simplest words (such as alus) a challenge after just a couple. But the variety is as eclectic as anywhere else. In the Old Town expect to pay about €3 for half a litre. Lithuanian vodka (degtinė) is quality too, though in bars it defers to beer in terms of popularity. Among local spirits, look out for starka, a 15thcentury concoction of syrupy rye vodka fortified with apple leaves and lime blossom, and the local semi-illicit firewater samagonas. Imported alcohol isn’t cheap, so buy the local stuff. Check prices before a session. Lithuania is currently tightening its booze laws, so that from the start of 2018 youngsters under 20 will not be able to buy booze. Alcohol shopping sales times will also change, to Mon-Sat 10:0020:00, Sun 10:00-15:00.

BORDERS

BASIC DATA POPULATION Lithuania 2,849,317 Vilnius 544,391 ETHNIC COMPOSITION (Lithuania) Lithuanians 83.7% Poles 6.6% Russians 5.3% Belarusians 1.3% Ukrainians 0.6% Others 3.3% TERRITORY 65,303 square kilometres Roughly twice the size of Belgium, and the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland, peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest distance is 276km, east to west is 373km BORDERS Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia 453km Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km LONGEST RIVER Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania) LARGEST LAKE Drūkščiai 4,479ha HIGHEST POINT Aukštasis 293.8m

Lithuania is bordered by the Baltic Sea, Belarus, Latvia, Poland and the peculiar Russian exclave born out of the ashes of WWII and the disintegration of the Soviet Union that is Kaliningrad. EU membership and Schengen agreements have as good as removed all border formalities with Latvia and Poland, although getting in and out of Belarus and Kaliningrad remains a process wrapped up in red tape for holders of most passports. Visas for both can be obtained from the Belarusian and Russian embassies in Vilnius, as well as from a few travel agencies. Note, however, that short-term visas for Kaliningrad are now available if you arrive in the exclave by air. For more information about getting in and out of Lithuania, see the website at www.pasienis.lt.

While things have greatly improved for the disabled in recent few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to get around on anything other than two well functioning legs. Even places that claim to be wheelchair friendly can be flanked by deep kerbs or stairs, or are located on cobbled streets. Wheelchair accessibility for public buildings outside the capital is improving slowly. Some newer trolleybuses and buses in Vilnius have low entry platforms, spaces for wheelchairs and hearing loops.

CRIME & SAFETY

MONEY & COSTS

It is not an exaggeration to say that Lithuania is one of the safest countries to visit in Europe. While petty crime mainly in the form of pickpocketing - is as big a problem in this country as anywhere else in the world, violent crime is almost unheard of. Even late at night you will not usually be presented with any potential threats whilst walking around city centres, and this goes for single women as much as for large groups of lads.

Most places of any note in Vilnius happily accept major credit cards, and ATMs are ubiquitous in urban areas, although if you’re planning a trip to the countryside make sure you take plenty of cash along. Lithuania is no longer the cheap country for foreigners it used to be, although it still offers great value to most visitors from western Europe and North America.

LOCAL TIME Lithuania is in the Eastern European Time (EET) zone at GMT+2hrs. When it’s 12:00 in Vilnius it’s 05:00 in New York, 10:00 in London, 11:00 in Warsaw, 13:00 in Moscow and 19:00 in Tokyo. Eastern European Summer Time (EEST, GMT+3hrs) falls between the last Sundays of March and October respectively. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

DISABLED TRAVELLERS

PLASTIC & GLASS Lithuania imposes a super-efficient eco-system for your empty plastic and glass bottles and beer cans. Most supermarkets have a supirkimas – a couple of machines where you can load each one at a time and hear them being scruched into nothing. Make sure they’re completely empty. At the end, press the screen and it’ll print a ticket. Take it to the counter inside the supermarket and they’ll give you some cash. Simple! August - November 2017

Vilnius Basics RELIGION Contemporary Lithuania is a predominantly Catholic country with almost 80% of the population pledging allegiance to the Pope. Pagan Lithuanians avoided Christianity until relatively late in European history, finally converting in 1387 in the eastern half of the country and in 1413 in the west. The country’s pagan heritage can still be seen in many aspects of life including the days of the week (literally First Day, Second Day, etc.), the continued naming of its female population after flowers and plants and the countless festivals throughout the year that remain very much as they were before the coming of Christianity. The area that makes up contemporary Lithuania has historically been the proud home of countless religions, among them Russian Orthodox, Protestantism, Islam and of course Judaism, of which the former makes up the second largest population at just under five per cent. It’s considered polite for men to remove their hats and women to cover their shoulders when visiting a Catholic church.

SERVICE

Riverside view

There are exceptions - and we take pride in exposing such places in our listings - but as a general rule private-sector service in Lithuania (particularly Vilnius) has improved beyond description during the 25-odd years we have been publishing Vilnius In Your Pocket.

TOILETS

SMOKING Lithuanians by and large like a cigarette (and compared to countries like the UK cigarettes are cheap) but that has not stopped the country adopting some tough anti-smoking legislation. Smoking is banned in almost all indoor spaces, including cafes, bars, pubs and clubs, except in carefully separated smoking rooms: look for the smoking symbol in our listings. Smoking is also now banned in two outdoor spaces in Vilnius: Kudirka Square and Bernardinų Sodas, as

MARKET VALUES Prices in Lithuania vary but can seem quite high compared to neighbouring countries like Poland. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. McDonald's Big Mac Snickers 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) Loaf of white bread 20 Marlboros 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (95) Local transport ticket (1 journey) Cinema ticket 12 Vilnius In Your Pocket

well as at bus stops. Smoking here can leave you open to a fine of between €5.80 and €14.48. If the ban is successful in these areas, other parts of the capital could also be declared puff-free.

€ 2.65 € 0.45 € 7.00 € 1.05 € 0.60 € 3.50 € 1.15 €1 €6

Just utter the two magic words kur tualetas? (where’s the toilet?) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you use their facilities, although some have started to enforce a small charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a few non-tourist bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked with plenty of paper and soap. A ghastly relic from days gone by that refuses to go away even in many of the swankiest establishments is the provision of a filthy bucket, kept next to the toilet, and used for the collection of spent paper.

VISAS Lithuania is a member of both the European Union and the Schengen border-free travel area. Visitors from the EU may stay in Lithuania for as long as they like, while visitors from 30 or so other countries (including Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea and the United States) don’t require a visa to stay for up to 90 days within a six month period. A visa issued by or for any Schengen country is valid in Lithuania. For more information, including the full-list of visa-free countries, take a look at www.urm.lt.

EXCHANGE RATES 1£=€1.07 1US$=€0.83

(August 30, 2017)

vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Vilnius Basics NATIONAL HOLIDAYS

LEARN LITHUANIAN!

January 1 New Year’s Day & National Flag Day February 16 Independence Day March 11 Restoration of Independence Day April 1 (2018) Easter Sunday (Catholic) April 2 (2018) Easter Monday (Catholic) May 1 Labour Day May 7 (2018) Mother’s Day June 4 (2018) Father’s Day June 24 Joninės (Midsummer) July 6 Crowning of King Mindaugas August 15 Žolinė (Assumption) November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25, 26 Christmas (Catholic)

Attempting discourse in Lithuanian may seem terrifying, but fortunately for you a vast number of locals, especially in the restaurants, bars, clubs and cafés in the city centre, have a healthy command of the English language. Not only that, they often want to practice their already brilliant English on you. Though you can probably get by without it, learning a few key Lithuanian phrases will charm the Lithuanians you’re trying to speak to and may even win you friends and admirers. And, unlike English, words in Lithuanian actually tend to be pronounced the way they are spelled. Once you know how to pronounce each letter or letter combination, that’s a great help. Many of the letters sound the same as they do in English, and those that don’t we list here, together with some basic words and phrases. Go on, have a go! Sėkmės! (Good luck!)

Basic Pronunciation

CLAIM TO A NAME The origins of the words Lietuva (the Lithuanian name for Lithuania) and Vilnius are far from clear. Of the former, many claim it comes from the local word for rain, lietus, although this is nothing but fanciful speculation. Others are of the belief that it can be traced back to Lietava, the name of a small river close to Kernavė, the capital © Mantas Jankauskas. of the emerging Lithuanian ViršVisko nation. Likewise, this theory is, no pun indented, far from watertight. Interestingly, the origin of the anglicised form, Lithuania, is also unknown. As for the word Vilnius, its first use wasn’t noted until fairly late in the 19th century, having formerly been known even to the Lithuanians as Vilna, which with the addition of the letter i spells Vilnia, the name, once again, of a local river. So, rather strangely, the word Vilnius is a lithuanianised version of a Lithuanian name.

CLIMATE

30 20

-5

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Rainfall (mm)

Min Temp (°C)

Max Temp (°C)

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-10

Temperature °C

Rainfall (mm)

The climate information below only gives an average indication of what to expect. Winter temperatures often plummet to below -20°C.

‘a’ sounds like ‘u’ in umbrella ‘ą’ sounds like ‘a’ in arm ‘c’ sounds like ‘ts’ in what’s ‘č’ sounds like ‘ch’ in cherry ‘e’ and ‘ę’ sound like ‘a’ in apple ‘ė’ sounds a bit like a short ‘yeah’ ‘g’ sounds like ‘g’ in glue ‘i’ sounds like ‘i’ in igloo ‘į’ and ‘y’ sound like ‘ee’ in cheese ‘j’ sounds like ‘y’ in yes ‘š’ sounds like ‘sh’ as in sheet ‘r’ is always rolled (if you can manage it) ‘u’ sounds like ‘oo’ in book ‘ų’ and ‘ū’ sound like ‘oo’ in spoon ‘ž’ sounds like the ‘s’ in treasure ‘o’ sounds like the ‘a’ in call ‘ch’ sounds like ‘h’ at the back of the throat ‘dž’ sounds like “J” in John

Lithuanian Words & Phrases English Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello Good morning Good evening Good-bye Good night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Lithuanian Taip Ne Labas/Atia Laba diena Labas rytas Labas vakaras Viso gero Labanakt Prašau Ačiū Atsiprašau

Pronunciation (as in ‘tape’) (ne!) (LAbas!/AT-ya!) (laba DYEN-a) (labas REE-tas) (labas VA-ka-ras) (VEE-so garo) (la-BA-nakt) (pru-show) (A-choo) (AT-si-pru-show)

My name is… I’m from England. Do you speak English? I don’t speak Lithuanian. I don’t understand. Two beers, please. Cheers! Where are the toilets? You are beautiful.

Mano vardas yra… Aš esu iš Anglijos. Ar kalbate angliškai? Aš nekalbu lietuviškai. Aš nesuprantu. Du alaus, prašau. Į sveikatą! Kur tualetai? Formal: Jūs esate graži (to a woman)/gražus (to a man). Informal: Tu esi graži (to a woman)/gražus (to a man). Aš tave myliu. Formal: Prašau parveškite mane namo Informal: Parvešk mane namo Formal: Paskambinkite man Informal: Paskambink man

(MA-no VAR-das ee-ra…) (ush e-soo ish AN-glee-yos) (ur kul-BA-ta UN-glish-kay?) (ush ne-KUL-bu lie-TU-vish-kay) (ush ne-su-PRAN-tu) (doo a-LAUS, pru-show) (ee svay-KAA-ta!) (koor tooa-LIET-ay?) (yoos es-a-te gra-ZHI) (yoos es-a-te gra-ZHOOS) (too es-i gra-ZHI) (too es-i gra-ZHOOS) (ush ta-ve MEE-lioo) (pru-show par-VESH-ki-ta mu-ne na-mo) (pru-show par-VESHK mu-ne na-mo) (pa-SKUM-bink-eeta mun) (pa_SKUM-bink mun)

Oro uostas Geležinkelio stotis Autobusų stotis Vieną bilietą į…

(oro u-WOS-tas) (ge-le-ZHIN-kel-yo sto-tiss) (ow-to-BOO-soo sto-tis) (Vienna BEE-le-ta ee…)

I love you. Please take me home.

Call me! Airport Train station Bus station One ticket to…

August - November 2017

History The Lithuanian state arose and strengthened to counter the religious fervour of crusading German knights. Lithuania was the last European country to convert to Christianity, and has seen countless invasions and occupations over the centuries. 7th-2nd centuries BC The first Baltic tribes establish themselves on what’s now known as Lithuanian territory. 11th century The word Lithuania is first used in written texts in AD 1009. At the same time, a wooden castle is built on Vilnius’ Gediminas Hill (Gedimino Kalnas), leading to the construction of a diminutive settlement beneath it. 13th century Žemaitians defeat the Livonian Knights at the Battle of Saulė in 1236, establishing the settlement of Šiauliai. After uniting local chieftains, on July 6, 1253 Mindaugas (circa 1203-1263) is crowned Lithuania’s one and only king. During his reign as the first Christian sovereign of the state, Vilnius Cathedral is built. However, the majority of the population remains pagan. 14th century In 1323 Grand Duke Gediminas (circa 12751341) sends letters to various Germanic-speaking towns, inviting their craftsmen and merchants to settle in Vilnius with the promise of religious freedom. Trying to ensure peace, in 1325 he forms a union with Poland by marrying his daughter Aldona to the Polish king’s son. The PolishLithuanian Commonwealth comes into being with the 1387 Krėva Union, whereby Gediminas’ grandson Jogaila (circa 1348-1434) becomes a Polish king by marrying the Polish Princess Jadwiga (circa 1373-1399). Even with the increased security, the Teutonic Knights still manage to invade, resulting in the 1390 burning of the wood-constructed Vilnius. 15th century The Teutonic Knights are eventually defeated on July 15, 1410 by joint Polish-Lithuanian armies led by Jogaila and Grand Duke Vytautas (1350-1430) at the Battle of Grunwald (Lithuanian, Žalgiris. German, Tannenberg), one of the greatest battles in medieval Europe. The country flourishes and by 1430 the borders extend from the Baltic to the Black Sea. 16th century The Renaissance sees marked cultural advances, notably the printing of the first Lithuanian book in 1547, and the founding of Vilnius University in 1579. The end of the Jogaila dynasty in 1572 results in the political and cultural marginalisation of Lithuania. Polish becomes the state language. The Livonian Wars (1558-1582) with Russia and Sweden drain the Commonwealth’s resources. 18th century At the start of the 18th century both Swedish and Russian forces try to seize control of Vilnius. In 1795 Lithuania is incorporated into tsarist Russia. The 120-year Russian occupation is only interrupted by a short liberation by Napoleon’s army in 1812 on his failed campaign to Moscow. During the Napoleonic army’s return through Vilnius nearly 40,000 of his soldiers die due to starvation and extreme cold. 14 Vilnius In Your Pocket

20TH CENTURY During the WWI German occupation of 1915-1918 the Lithuanian Council proclaims independence on February 16, 1918. As the Germans retreat, the Lithuanian state comes under attack by the Polish General Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935) who seizes control of Vilnius and areas south of it from1920-1939. Poland maintains control of these areas by claiming they were a portion of the pre-war Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Kaunas becomes the interim capital of Lithuania until 1940. During the inter-war period independent Lithuania prospers under the 14-year dictatorship (1926-1940) of the nationalist president Antanas Smetona (1874-1944). Lithuanian independence ends with the clandestine signing on August 23, 1939 of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact between Hitler and Stalin, who carve up Europe into portions to be controlled by Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. Lithuania is subject to both Soviet and Nazi occupation. Between 1941-1944 the Nazis and their Lithuanian henchmen organise the mass murder of over 200,000 Jews, 94% of the entire Litvak population. The return of the Red Army and the re-incorporation of Lithuania into the USSR on July 7, 1944 results in the deportation of some 250,000 Lithuanians to Siberia, a task they’d already begun in 1940 before the Nazis arrived. Lithuanian partisans, dubbed the Forest Brothers (Miško Broliai), wage guerrilla warfare until 1953. In an act of protest against the Soviet occupation, on May 14, 1972 19-year-old student Romas Kalanta sets fire to himself in public in Kaunas, dying from his wounds. 19th century Vilnius University acts as a hotbed of dissent against the tsarist government, culminating in the 1831 November Uprising, which leads to the closing of the institution. Russification ensues with non-Orthodox churches forcibly closed, the Lithuanian language banned in 1864 and the country named the Northwest Region. The ban on the Latin script forces the smuggling in of books from neighbouring East Prussia. Another uprising takes place in 1863 and General Muravyov (The Hangman) is sent from Moscow to restore order, resulting in deaths by hanging for most of the leading activists. The repression is countered and defied by a revival of Lithuanian culture and tradition. In 1883 Jonas Basanavičius (1851-1927) publishes the first Lithuanian-language newspaper, Auszra (Aušra, or Dawn).

INDEPENDENCE & BEYOND 1988 June 3 The Lithuanian reform movement Sąjūdis is founded by some 500 representatives of the intelligentsia, advocating openness, democracy and sovereignty. August 23 Some 250,000 people gather in Vilnius to mark the 49th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. October 7 The Lithuanian flag is raised on Gediminas Castle. 1989 February 16 Lithuanian Independence Day is officially commemorated. August 23 An estimated 2,000,000 Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians join hands in a human chain vilnius.inyourpocket.com

History stretching the 650km between Vilnius and Tallinn to protest the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. 1990 January 11-13 Mikhail Gorbachev’s visit to Vilnius is far from pleasant as 300,000 pro-independence demonstrators turn out to ‘welcome’ him. March 4 Pro-independence Sąjūdis candidates receive an overall majority in the first free elections in Lithuania since 1940. March 11 The Supreme Council (later to become Parliament, or Seimas) declares the restoration of Lithuanian independence and demands the withdrawal of Soviet forces. Dr. Vytautas Landsbergis is elected parliamentary chairman. April 17 Moscow imposes an economic blockade. 1991 January 13 Soviet forces try unsuccessfully to storm the parliamentary building in Vilnius. A large crowd ensures the delegates are safe inside. However, during the Soviet bid to reclaim the media by storming the Television Tower, 14 people are killed. February 12 Iceland becomes the first country to recognise an independent Lithuania. July 31 Seven border guards and policemen are killed at the Medininkai border checkpoint by Soviet Special Forces. August 21 The Moscow putsch collapses. Soviet troops leave the buildings they’ve occupied since January. Lenin’s statue is removed from Vilnius’ Lukiškių Aikštė (Lukiškės Square). A photograph of the event appears on the cover of Issue N°1 of Vilnius In Your Pocket, published on May 1, 1992. August 29 Sweden becomes the first Western country to open an embassy in Vilnius. September 2 The USA recognises Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. September 17 All three Baltic countries are re-admitted into the UN. 1992 February 8 Lithuanians participate under their own flag at the Winter Olympics for the first time since 1928. 1993 June 25 Lithuania’s pre-war currency, the litas, is re-introduced. August 31 The last Russian soldier leaves Lithuania. September 4-8 Pope John Paul II visits. 1994 December Vilnius’ Old Town joins the list of Unesco World Heritage sites. 1998 January 4 Valdas Adamkus is elected president. Adamkus, who fled Lithuania in 1944, was a senior official at the Environmental Protection Agency in Chicago before returning to Lithuania to run for president. December 21 Seimas abolishes the death penalty in response to international pressure from the EU.

21ST CENTURY 2001 June 23-27 The Dalai Lama visits Lithuania, visiting various sites in Vilnius and Kaunas. 2002 February 2 The litas switches pegging from the US dollar to the euro in readiness for EU accession, into which the country is invited to join on October 9. November 22 Lithuania is invited to become a member of Nato. George Bush visits Vilnius the following day, becoming the first US president to visit the city. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

2003 In the January 5 run-off election, president Valdas Adamkus is voted out of office by the 46-year-old right wing underdog Rolandas Paksas. May 10-11 A staggering 91% of the 64% of the population who turned out to vote give a resounding Yes to EU membership. 2004 Jan-April Impeachment hearings take place as president Rolandas Paksas is found guilty of violating the Lithuanian constitution and his oath as president in his dealings with unsavoury Russian business partners. April 2 Lithuania becomes a fully-fledged member of Nato and the EU on May 1. June 27 A 77-year-old Valdas Adamkus is re-elected president. July Virgilijus Alekna, whose day job is protecting the president, wins a gold medal at the Athens Olympics in the discus. December 31 The Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant says farewell to the first of its two RBMK reactors. 2007 December 21 Lithuania joins the Schengen zone, allowing borderless travel to and from other Schengen countries. December 22 The Lithuanian Television and Radio Commission bans broadcasting of the Voice of Russia radio station. 2008 June Lithuania outlaws the public display of Nazi and Soviet symbols. August While most public attention is on basketball, Edvinas Krungolcas and Andrejus Zadneprovskis win silver and bronze respectively in the modern pentathlon at the Beijing Olympics. The Lithuanian basketball team reach the semi-finals but eventually come home empty handed. 2009 Lithuania celebrates 1,000 years since its name was first mentioned in written texts. January 17 With 90Lt million of mounting debts, the national airline, flyLAL, suspends all services. Dalia Grybauskaitė, the so-called Iron Lady, is inaugurated as Lithuania’s first female president on July 12. 2010 Lithuania celebrates 20 years of independence from the Soviet Union on March 11. In a sinister U-turn, on May 19 a court in Klaipėda approves the public display of swastikas arguing that they represent Lithuania’s historical heritage, not Nazi Germany. Lithuania take bronze medal in the World Basketball Championship in Turkey after defeating Serbia 99-88 on September 12. 2011 Lithuania commemorates the centenary of the death of the painter and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis. The country hosts the EuroBasket 2011 competition in cities nationwide between August 31 and September 18. Lithuania is defeated 67-65 by FYR Macedonia in the quarter finals in Kaunas on September 15. 2013 Lithuania takes over the Presidency of the Council of the European Union for a six month period between July 1 and December 31. 2014 May 2014 Dalia Grybauskaitė is re-elected president of Lithuania. 2015 January 1 Lithuania adopts the Euro. August - November 2017

What’s On

Central Vilnius has some incredible open spaces to stage a concert or festival | © Domantas Kancleris

Not surprisingly for a capital city there’s a lot of culture to be had in Vilnius including some cracking classical music, a bit of worthy contemporary art and the occasional faded Western rock star. Going to concerts and festivals in and around the city is a relatively inexpensive affair, with concert tickets often costing less than €15. Standards tend to be high and the variety of events taking place is getting bigger every year. For information on purchasing tickets, ask your hotel reception or speak to the nice people at Vilnius Tourist Information. Read about more events and buy tickets online at the excellent www.bilietai.lt, www. tiketa.lt.

ARTS & CRAFTS AMATŲ GILDIJA The ceramics artist Mindaugas Rutkauskas is almost completely blind yet manages to produce wonderful work from classic earthenware crockery to complete ceramic stoves. He shares this workshop with several other artists. Feel free to have a poke around. Most of the stuff on display is for sale.QI‑10, Pranciškonų 6, tel. (+370) 64 53 80 44/ (+370) 52 12 05 20, www.amatugildija.lt. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun, Also at S. Skapo 3 - 34. J MENO NIŠA Art to hang on your body as opposed to your wall, this combined gallery and workshop presents some of the best examples of the work of Lithuanian goldsmiths.QH‑10, J. Basanavičiaus 1/13, tel. (+370) 52 31 38 11, www. menonisa.lt/en. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J 16 Vilnius In Your Pocket

OLD CRAFTS WORKSHOP OF THE FINE CRAFTS ASSOCIATION OF VILNIUS (VILNIAUS DAILIŲJŲ AMATŲ ASOCIACIJOS SENŲJŲ AMATŲ DIRBTUVĖS) An extraordinary organisation dedicated to both preserving and promoting a wide range of traditional fine crafts including practictioners such as jewellers, ceramicists, book-binders and leather workers. Operating out of studios and workshops spread around the city centre, the nice people who run the organisation arrange a fascinating array of things for visitors to see and do including lectures, tours, hands-on workshops and even a few events for children. Visiting is a good opportunity to buy some unique and special gifts and souvenirs. Their website has good information in English.QJ‑10, Savičiaus 10, tel. (+370) 52 12 51 69, www.seniejiamatai.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. JA UŽUPIO MUSEUM & GALLERY OF SMITHERY (UŽUPIO KALVYSTĖS GALERIJA - MUZIEJUS) A small working gallery dedicated to the art of the blacksmith. Watch people at work, buy something as a unique gift or souvenir or ask about the regular workshops. QK‑9, Užupio 26, tel. (+370) 52 15 37 57/(+370) 69 81 41 22, www.kalvystesgalerija.eu. Open 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:30 - 16:30. Closed Mon, Sun. J

What’s going on? facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

What’s On CINEMAS

SACRUM

Films are usually shown in their original language with Lithuanian subtitles. Animated films are usually dubbed. FORUM CINEMAS VINGIS Mostly popular Hollywood films inside a dedicated multiplex close to the city centre. There’s also a small new hall screening arthouse and foreign-language films.QE‑10, Savanorių 7, tel. 1567, www.forumcinemas.lt. Box office open 10:30 - 22:00. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). JA MULTIKINO Hollywood blockbusters inside a large shopping centre. QH‑1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 62 05 15 58/(+370) 52 19 53 76, www.multikino.lt. Box office open 10:00 22:00. A SKALVIJA The best place in the city for arthouse and underground cinema, and meeting people who like it in the attached cafébar. It has been going for aeons and is well known among film lovers for its distinctive repertoire. Zooming in on noncommercial European and world cinema, it’s also a venue for festivals, retrospectives and special screenings. One of its many events is the Vilnius Documentary Film Festival at the end of September, the main documentary film platform in the Baltics that always screens rich and captivating films.QH‑7, A. Goštauto 2, tel. (+370) 52 61 05 05, www.skalvija.lt. Box office open an hour before the event. JW

ET PROFANUM

CONCERT HALLS COMPENSA Located on a small street some way north of the city centre, this new concert hall hosts music concerts, theatre, cultural events, conferences, parties and buffet receptions.QKernavės 84, tel. (+370) 61 88 51 80/1588, www.compensakoncertusale.lt. LITHUANIAN NATIONAL PHILHARMONIC CONCERT HALL (LIETUVOS NACIONALINĖ FILHARMONIJA) Featuring a concert hall and a smaller chamber hall, the Lithuanian National Symphony Orchestra was established in 1940. Concerts are performed by a range of ensembles including the aforementioned orchestra as well as the Čiurlionis String Quartet and the chamber ensemble Musica Humana to name but a few.QJ‑10, Aušros Vartų 5, tel. (+370) 52 66 52 33/(+370) 52 66 52 16, www. nationalphilharmonic.eu. Box office open 10:00 - 13:30, 14:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon. JA SIEMENS ARENA The quintessential all-purpose arena staging everything from international basketball matches to big name rock concerts.QH‑1, Ozo 14, tel. (+370) 52 47 75 76, www. siemensarena.lt. Box office open 10:00 - 18:00. Fri, Sat, Sun open two hours before the event. A facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

Organizatorius

Rėmėjai:

Rodytojai:

LIETUVOS RESPUBLIKOS KULTŪROS MINISTERIJA

Partneriai:

Festivalio žurnalas

Informaciniai partneriai:

August - November 2017

P R ES E NTS

CLASSICS STRAIGHT TO YOUR HEART ‚HE IS SINGING FROM THE BOTTOM OF HIS HEART‘ BY KRISTINA NORVILAITĖ TICKET SALES BY:

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vaidilosklasika WWW.VAIDILOSKLASIKA.LT

Buy the season ticket and make sure you don’t miss a sound.

ALL CONCERTS AUTUMN AND WINTER 2017 VENUE: VAIDILA THEATRE IN VILNIUS A. JAKŠTO G. 9

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GRAND OPENING OF THE SEASON

Jauna Muzika Choir

17 September,, 6.00 p.m.

Lukas Asmik Petras Geniušas Grigorian Geniušas PIANO

SOPRANO

PIANO

4 October, 7.00 p.m. at the Vaidila Theatre 6 October, 6.00 p.m. at the Kaunas State Philharmonic

10 December, 6.00 p.m.

12 December, 6.00 p.m. at the Kaunas State Philharmonic 13 December, 7.00 p.m. at the Vaidila Theatre

27 September,, 7.00 p.m.

Chopin Jazz Inn featuring Evelina Sašenko 8 October,, 6.00 p.m.

Bel Canto Choir

29 October, 6.00 p.m.

Andrey Baranov, violin Vytis Šakūras, piano 5 November,, 6.00 p.m.

Andrius Žlabys, piano 12 November, 6.00 p.m.

29 November, 7.00 p.m.

Sergej Malov, violin 3 December, 6.00 p.m.

Cosmic Čiurlionis, the project of world music

Baltic Guitar Quartet

Young talents of the Vaidilos Klasika: Neringa Valuntonytė, piano

17 December, 6.00 p.m.

15 October,, 6.00 p.m.

19 November, 6.00 p.m.

Viktorija Miškūnaitė, soprano

11 October,, 7.00 p.m.

Eugenijus Chrebtovas, baritone 22 October,, 6.00 p.m.

Young talents of the Vaidilos Klasika: Paulius Andersson, piano

Special concert for the centennial anniversary of independence of the Republic of Finland 26 November, 6.00 p.m.

Young talents of the Vaidilos Klasika: Ilja Aksionov, tenor

Viva Choir

20 December, 7.00 p.m.

31 December 6.00 p.m. and 9.00 p.m.

New Ideas Chamber Orchestra (NICO) New Year’s Concert

What’s On POP & ROCK CONCERTS COMPENSA www.compensakoncertusale.lt September 15, 520:00 Zucchero – Black Cat World Tour 2017 October 265, 20:00 Future Islands October 305, 20:00 Apocalyptica Plays Metallica by four cellos November 08, 519:00 St. Petersburg Festival Ballet “Sleeping Beauty“ November 10, 520:00 Hurts November 11, 520:00 Chris Rea5 0November 14, 519:00 Georgian legend November 165, 20:00 Benjamin Clementine – The Wandering Tour 2017 November 165, 19:00 Smokie5 November 26, 518:00 Vilnius Discopolo Ritmu: Boys, Milano, Andre 0November 275, 20:00 Kodaline LOFTAS www.menufabrikas.lt September 30, 519:00 Fink 0October 21, 521:00 Triagrutrika 0November 4, 520:00 Sohn|Rennen Tour 2017 0November 17, 520:00 Laibach SIEMENS ARENA www.siemens-arena.com 0October 21 Golden Disco 3 TAMSTA CLUB www.tamstaclub.lt 0September 29 Stu Larsen 20 Vilnius In Your Pocket

For modern art, visit the Contemporary Art Centre

ST. CATHERINE’S CHURCH (ŠV. KOTRYNOS BAŽNYČIA) Originally belonging to a Benedictine convent when founded in 1618, after several fires St Catherine’s was rebuilt in the 1740s by famed architect Jan Krzyzstof Glaubitz. The new design daringly created a nave that was as high as it was long, with a Baroque exterior that is elaborate on all sides, not only in its twin-towered façade. There’s a rich interior too, with excellent acoustics, making it a fabulous venue for regular music concerts. The square behind the church contains a bust of Stanisław Moniuszko, a 19th-century Polish composer who lived in Vilnius and whose operas and songs are filled with fond references to the lost Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.QI‑9, Vilniaus 30, tel. (+370) 52 62 04 21, www.kultura.lt. J VAIDILOS KLASIKA Vaidilos Klasika is an innovative musical programme spanning the entire concert season and aimed at the highest artistic standards, bringing together leading classical performers and young talent from Lithuania and beyond. Top-class classical music performances take place inside the Vaidilos Theatre, a 19th-century neo-Gothic building that hosted its first play in Lithuanian in 1905. Badly damaged in World War II and rebuilt afterwards, the venue began a new life in 2016, offering exclusive acoustics ideal for solo and chamber performances in a classy, chandeliered environment. Together with modern stage equipment, it also boasts a Yamaha S6, a hand-crafted premium-class grand piano.QA. Jakšto 9, tel. (+370) 67 25 50 95, www. vaidilosklasika.lt. VILNIUS CONGRESS HALL (VILNIAUS KONGRESŲ RŪMAI) Home to the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra, this city-centre venue features some fine acoustics and organises everything from serious classical concerts to shows for children.QI‑7, Vilniaus 6/16, tel. (+370) 52 61 88 28, www.lvso.lt. Box office open 11:00 - 15:00, 15:45 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:45. Closed Sun. JA vilnius.inyourpocket.com

What’s On GALLERIES CONTEMPORARY ART CENTRE (ŠIUOLAIKINIO MENO CENTRAS) Vilnius’ very own monstrous carbuncle on the face of an old friend, this 1968 concrete masterpiece conceals one of the country’s leading galleries for both Lithuanian and international contemporary art. Surplus to the 2,400 square metres of exhibition space, the Contemporary Art Centre also organises conferences and lectures, features a superb reading room and hosts a rather good bar.QI‑10, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 52 12 19 45, www.cac.lt/en. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €3/1.50. JU NATIONAL ART GALLERY (NACIONALINĖ DAILĖS GALERIJA) Found inside a renovated and enlarged structure that once gloriously housed the Museum of the Revolution of the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist Republic, this bold endeavour now showcases the works of a multitude of artists of Lithuanian origin from the 20th and 21st centuries. It’s organised to highlight particular styles, eras and political attitudes to art in Lithuania under the various regimes of the past hundred years and also stages temporary shows that are well worth visiting. QG‑5, Konstitucijos 22, tel. (+370) 52 12 29 97, www. ndg.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €1.80/0.90. JAW

CONCERTS AT THE OPERA LITHUANIAN NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET THEATRE (LIETUVOS NACIONALINIS OPEROS IR BALETO TEATRAS) A stunning construction opened in 1974 and offering the whole range of works. Worth a look inside even if you don’t plan on attending anything.QH‑7, A. Vienuolio 1, tel. (+370) 52 62 07 27, www.opera.lt. Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:30, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JA SEPTEMBER OPERA 15, 16 18:30 23 18:30 27 12:00 BALLET 20 18:30 27, 28 18:30 29 18:30 OPERETTA 30 18:30

FOR CHILDREN 24 12:00 Cipollino, Karen Chačaturian OCTOBER OPERA 7, 16 18:30 L‘elisir d‘amore, Gaetano Donizetti

11 14

18:30 Carmen, Georges Bizet 18:30 La Traviata, Giuseppe Verdi Il barbiere di Siviglia, Gioacchino 20, 21 12:00 Rossini 27 12:00 Don Carlo, Giuseppe Verdi 28 18:30 La Bohme, Giacomo Puccini BALLET Eglė the Queen of Grass Snakes, Eduar4 18:30 das Balsys

18:30 Bolero+

12 18:30 Don Quixote, Ludwig Alois Minkus OPERETTA 5 18:30 Die Lustige Witwe, Franz Lehár FOR CHILDREN

1 8, 29 15 22

Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, Bogdan Pawlowski Five Miracles of Mary, Raminta 12:00 Šerkšnytė 12:00 Cipollino, Karen Chačaturian 12:00 Cinderella, Sergej Prokofjev 12:00

NOVEMBER OPERA

3, 4 9, 11 18

Le nozze di Figaro, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart I Capuleti e i Montecch, Vincenzo 18:30 Bellini 18:30 La Traviata, Giuseppe Verdi 18:30

BALLET

12, 14 18:30 Dance Theatre of Harlem Eglė the Queen of Grass Snakes, 15 18:30 Eduardas Balsys 17 18:30 Čiurlionis, Giedrius Kuprevičius FOR CHILDREN

I Capuleti e i Montecch, Vincenzo Bellini La Bohme, Giacomo Puccini Don Carlo, Giuseppe Verdi

5 12, 26 19

Čiurlionis, Giedrius Kuprevičius Bolero+ Romeo and Juliet, Sergej Prokofjev Die Fledermaus J. Strauss

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12:00

Five Miracles of Mary, Raminta Šerkšnytė

12:00, Zuikis Puikis, Sigitas Mickis 14:00 Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, 12:00 Bogdan Pawlowski

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app August - November 2017

What’s On TITANIKAS A series of exhibition halls owned and curated by the neighbouring Vilnius Art Academy, exhibitions run the gamut from student shows to serious work from home and abroad in just about every conceivable medium.QJ‑8, Maironio 3, tel. (+370) 52 10 01 36, www.vda.lt/en/ faculty-of-vilnius. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J UŽUPIO MENO INKUBATORIUS (UŽUPIS ART INCUBATOR) A tumbledown house on the riverbank, brightly painted and with a few works in the garden, this is Užupis’ unofficial Ministry of Culture as well as a lively gallery space, workshop and the only place in the city to buy official Užupis Republic memorabilia, souvenirs, local artwork, a copy of the Constitution and much more. Exhibitions include works from a wide range of contributors including established local artists, school children and the occasional American professor of mathematics. Follow the riverbank north from Užupio Kavinė.QJ‑9, Užupio 2, tel. (+370) 67 78 82 18/(+370) 69 98 37 23, www.umi.lt/en. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J VARTAI Arguably the best and most influential contemporary gallery in the country. Find works in all media by the top Lithuanian artists working in their fields. Vartai also organises exhibitions by artists from abroad. Recommended.QI‑9, Vilniaus 39 (Vilniaus Mokytojų Namai), tel. (+370) 52 12 29 49/(+370) 65 78 24 09, www.galerijavartai.lt. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. J VILNIUS PICTURE GALLERY (VILNIAUS PAVEIKSLŲ GALERIJA) Housed inside the charming 17th-century Chodkevičiai (Chodkiewicz) family palace, this splendid little museum is of the type in which a menagerie of middle-aged ladies shuttle you around from room to room like a pinball. Ignore them if you can, and enjoy a great collection of local painting, drawing and sculpture plus a couple of rooms stuffed full of exemplary furniture, all of it representing the last several hundred years of achievement. They also put on temporary exhibitions here, of which some are well worth checking out.QJ‑9, Didžioji 4, tel. (+370) 52 12 42 58, www.ldm.lt/en. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €1.80/0.90. J

INDEPENDENT CULTURAL CENTRES LOFTAS Loftas (Loft) is an independent, non-profit cultural centre based inside a fabulous old factory providing events and creative opportunities for the community including parties, fashion shows, seminars, film screenings and more. It’s at its best, however, as a live venue for touring techno fiends and indie hipsters, both local and international. Details about all events, including those held on the summer terrace, see the funky website, which is also in English. QG‑12, Švitrigailos 29, tel. (+370) 65 67 46 77, www. menufabrikas.lt. Working hours depend on repertoire. Depends on repertoire. TJ6EBKW

Danske Bank marathon

PHOTOGRAPHY PROSPEKTO GALLERY (PROSPEKTO GALERIJA) Owned and run by the Lithuanian Photographers’ Union, Prospekto Galerija is a hit and miss affair but really worth the effort just in case. Exhibitions range from the sublime to the awful, often let down partially by the artists themselves who submit badly presented work that’s often lit with no thought to the work. There’s also a small shop where you can buy books and postcards featuring the work of many famous and obscure Lithuanian art, news and documentary photographers past and present.QG‑7, Gedimino 43, tel. (+370) 52 61 83 38, www.photography.lt. Open 12:00 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J

FESTIVALS 01.07 - 30.12 » CHRISTOPHER SUMMER FESTIVAL

Various styles of music including classical, jazz, singing poetry and pop are performed during one of the city’s bestloved festivals. Find out more at www.kristupofestivaliai. lt.Q€9.00 - 56.00, www.kristupofestivaliai.lt/en.

28.09 - 13.10 » SIRENOS 2017

Enjoy a concert at Loftas

22 Vilnius In Your Pocket

The capital’s annual international theatre festival is back again. Taking place at more than one venue, all the information necessary to find out what’s going on can be found at www.sirenos.lt.Qwww.sirenos.lt. vilnius.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 12.10 - 15.10 » VILNIUS JAZZ 2017

The 30th jazz fest hits town again in October for four days of contemporary and experimental jazz concerts and related activities. Founded during the early days of perestroika, the festival has grown into one of the most highly regarded cultural events of the year, although some still maintain that Kaunas’ jazz festival is better. Have a look at www. vilniusjazz.lt and judge for yourself.Qwww.vilniusjazz.lt.

15.11 - 19.11 » VILNIUS MAMA JAZZ 2017

The best Vilnius has to offer in one great app

Vilnius Mama Jazz has been going for several years now and offers perhaps the widest spectrum of jazz of any festival of the genre in Lithuania. Keep an eye on www. vilniusmamajazz.lt for details of who’s performing.Qwww. vilniusmamajazz.lt/en.

SPECIAL EVENTS 16.02 - 16.02 » CEREMONY OF THE TRUMPETER OF INDEPENDENCE

In celebration of the 100th anniversary of the declaration of Lithuanian independence on February 16, 1918, every evening at 7.18pm (19:18) until the anniversary a trumpet player will appear at the window of the Palace of the Grand Dukes by the cathedral and play Dear Lithuania, regarded as the country’s second national anthem.QJ‑8, Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania, Katedros 4, tel. (+370) 52 62 00 07, www.valdovurumai.lt.

City Essentials Vilnius Fireworks festival

30.09 » VILNIUS FIREWORKS (VILNIAUS FEJERIJA) 2017

The biggest firework display of the year, always spectacular and featuring masters of the firework arts from all over Europe, takes place at Vingio Parkas.QC‑9, Vingis Park, www.fejerija.lt.

SPORT 10.09 » DANSKE BANK VILNIUS MARATHON 2017

The annual Vilnius marathon takes place again this September along a route that takes in the Old Town, starting and finishing in Cathedral Square. There’s also a half-marathon and 4.2km family fun. Full information in English at www. vilniausmaratonas.lt.Qwww.vilniausmaratonas.lt/en. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

Only our favourite places Works ofﬂine, incl. maps Free download Incl. dozens of other cities www.iyp.me/app

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

August - November 2017

24 Vilnius In Your Pocket

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Lithuanian Cuisine Pork, potatoes, dairy stuff, black bread, cabbage. Hardly cuisine supérieure, you might think. But the age-old ingredients that make up traditional Lithuanian food are still being rustled up in incredibly delicious ways. Let’s tuck in. Black bread, hard and crusty on the outside and firm and slightly sour on the inside, should be top of your list of local foods to sample. Made from dark rye flour, slices of it were once on the table for practically every meal. Back in the day, when all Lithuanians simply ate whatever they could grow, every farmer’s wife would make her own - vigorously kneading dough made from flour, water and yeast, letting it rise, covering it with cabbage or maple leaves for flavour, and baking, reverently making the sign of the cross above it. A loaf was always kept, covered by a towel, in the most honourable place in the house - in the best room under the images of saints. Bread is so sacred it was once said that if a piece was dropped it should be picked up immediately, kissed and then eaten. Failure to do so and your home may go without any bread at all. Pigs are not sacred, of course, and are slaughtered for any feast or celebration, especially Christmas and Easter. The most tender cuts are eaten immediately, the rest preserved by salting or smoking, sometimes allowing it to smoke using alder or juniper wood for up to a month. Not much of the animal is wasted. The stomach is filled with lean mince and seasoned to make a rich, dark ball of meat called skilandis. The large intestine is stuffed with grated potato to make slimily delicious vėdarai. The trotters are braised for hours and served with bacon and sauerkraut, while the crunchy ears and fatty snout are served up as beer snacks. Our favourite way of eating pork in Lithuania is to devour a huge, boiled, heavily-smoked knuckle (virtas rūkytas kumpis), all crunchy crackling and tender meat, served with lashings of horseradish sauce, sauerkraut, potatoes and dill. The mighty potato takes precedence over all other vegetables, even though it didn’t actually arrive in Lithuania until well into the 18th century. But the locals prefer to prepare it in an unusual way - grating it raw before cooking. Potato pancakes (bulviniai blynai) with sour cream are a must-try treat, though quality varies from restaurant to restaurant. Another dish to look out for is žemaičių blynai, soft, stout potato pancakes with a crispy exterior and stuffed with meat or mushrooms. But the most famous potato dish is the legendary cepelinai, or didžkukuliai, huge zeppelin-shaped dumplings stuffed with minced meat, mushrooms or cottage cheese and usually topped with fried cubes of pork fat. Making them facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

is a fine art. And if they’re not eaten on the day, they can be fried and served on the next. Lithuania is also a country rich in mushrooms (grybai). Around 20 edible species can be found in the country’s forests just as the autumn can be sensed in the air, but prized above all is the fat and juicy boletus. Mushrooming is a local passion, and should be done with someone who absolutely knows the edible from the poisonous. Soups are a staple of the Lithuanian diet. In summer, you have to try the legendary bright pink šaltibarščiai, cold beetroot soup made with kefir sour milk, boiled eggs and, preferably, lots of dill. It usually comes with a small side dish of potatoes. Hot soupy favourites include the local version of borsch - usually with meat in it - mushroom soup, cabbage soup and poppy-seed milk soup, all of them tasty. Beef is not traditionally a Lithuanian strong point, and some restaurants do better than others at serving tender cuts. But veal is excellent just about everywhere, whether roasted, sautéed with apples or stuffed with liver. Chicken dishes are, of course, widespread and turkey is popular too, but duck, like beef, is hit or miss. Particularly popular in Trakai but available throughout the country are kibinai - pastries filled with meat, mushrooms, even chocolate - and čenachai, ceramic bowls piled high with succulent chunks of meat, potatoes and veg. You might see delicious balandėliai too, minced meat wrapped in cabbage leaves. On the fish front, herring (silkė) is the most widespread, fished straight out of the Baltic Sea. Pickled, baked or fried, you will often see herring as an appetiser. If you are ever by the sea in Lithuania the most sought-after delicacy is eel, and you may also see the freshwater versions on sale inland. When it comes to bigger fish, pike-perch (sterkai), pike (lydeka) and carp (karpis) are all delicious and local. There are many dairy treats not to be missed if you’re in the supermarket. Sūreliai are amazing little sweet sausages of curd cheese often coated in chocolate, loved by children and adults alike. Curd itself comes in dry, grainy chunks, wetter flat slabs or - the most transportable - flat, hard, oval-shaped pieces often flavoured with caraway seeds, herbs or spices. In fact, the dairy section of a supermarket can be bafflingly broad, with seemingly infinite varieties of cheese, cream, kefir, yoghurt, butter and much more. Finally, desserts. Šakotis is probably the national cake, baked slowly on a spit, with deliciously sweet branches spiking away from the stem. But just as tasty is tinginys, made in various forms with chopped-up biscuits, cocoa and butter. There’s also stick-in-the-teeth poppy-seed cake, the many varieties of honey cake, fabulous varies of cookies and wafers, and countless cream cakes. Salivating yet? Enjoy your culinary tour of Lithuania! August - November 2017

Restaurants

Exquisite fish dishes and ambience at Žuvinė

The spectrum of dining choices continues to improve in Vilnius and there really are some top-class restaurants around now, a few of them offering a ridiculously good price-quality ratio, particularly if you’re visiting from Western Europe or North America. The figures in brackets at the end of each of our reviews denote the checked price of an average main course on the menu. The opening hours we list tend to be flexible in that these are the times the venue has told us you can expect the chef to be working. Occasionally the chef departs an hour or so before closing time, leaving the glass-clinking, lateevening atmosphere to continue, and in these cases we highlight it in the review. If business is slow, restaurants may shut early. Service varies a great deal, to jarring effect now and then, so be sure to reward polite, pleasant and efficient service to encourage others – and cut back on the tip if it’s not deserved. Beware of saying ‘Thank you’ and nodding when paying the bill, as this can be taken to mean ‘Keep the change’. Keep in mind also that our list of restaurants and cafés is, due to space restraints, not exhaustive. We list places that in our opinion deserve our recommendation or, in rare cases, our recommendation to stay away from. Many more of our objective reviews can be found online at Vilnius.inyourpocket.com. In the meantime, here are some tips depending on what you may be looking for. 26 Vilnius In Your Pocket

LOCAL Experience the best of Lithuanian cuisine at Forto Dvaras in the Old Town or, in summer, in the quaint garden at Senoji Trobelė. For a more upmarket take on centuriesold local recipes, head to Sweet Root. The choppy Baltic Sea is not that far away and both Šturmų Švyturys and Žuvinė do a reliably wonderful job bringing fish to Vilnius, freshly caught, and preparing it in all kinds of amazing ways. For locally sourced ingredients chopped and prepared for international dishes, try Panama or Bistro 18. CHEAP There are countless cheap and cosy cafés in Vilnius, and those grouped at the far end of Trakų Street are as good as any. Or head to the Hales indoor farmers’ market and its cafés at the southern end of Pylimo for a dose of fresh local food. Supermarkets large and small also sell fairly tasty, fairly fresh eats of all kinds. SPLURGE Prices are still competitive compared to, say, Scandinavia, so nowhere will have you rapidly assuming damage control when you get your bill. For a special occasion, visit the reliable fine-dining establishments of five-star hotels, such as California Tapas & Wine at Imperial Hotel & Restaurant, or Stikliai at the Hotel Stikliai. For excellent steaks and high-end grills, you should definitely consider heading to The Town or long-time favourite Steakhouse Hazienda. vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants LITHUANIAN There are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant in Lithuania. The first and most obvious variety features pigtailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of potatoes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminiscent of an old barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and is perhaps best described as a restaurant or café serving predominantly but not exclusively Lithuanian favourites in an atmosphere you won’t find anywhere other than in Lithuania. Rather than insult the best intentions of the good restaurant owners of Vilnius and call the former of the two Folk restaurants, we choose to list both types of restaurant together. FORTO DVARAS One of the better options for traditional Lithuanian dishes in the Old Town, this is a jolly, warm-hearted, meat-and-potatoes place with cosy cavernous rooms downstairs and window-side tables on the ground floor. Feast and drink among antiquated folk utensils and cartoonish wall paintings and be served by smiling young locals in old-fashioned costumes. The potato pancakes with bacon and mushroom sauce are outstanding and there are vegetarian options too.QJ‑9, Pilies 16, tel. (+370) 65 61 36 88, www. fortodvaras.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €6. TJ A B SW

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking

6 Pet-friendly J Old town location S Take away W Wi-Fi V Home delivery

X Smoking place E Live music I Fireplace B Outside seating

SENOJI TROBELĖ A tiny cottage with sheltered leafy garden in summer, ‘the old hut’, as it would be translated, serves some of the finest traditional Lithuanian food in the country, a 15-minute walk from the Old Town. A handful of quaintly laid tables facing and behind the bar are encircled by a charmingly cluttered rustic interior, giving plenty to contemplate as you wait for your meal, local mead or bitter brandy in hand. Cepelinai are always delicious here but more elegant dishes are on offer too, like wine-braised venison stew with lingonberry sauce. We last dropped by for Kėdainiai pancakes made from grated potato and slivers of chicken, enticingly presented with local berries and young sprouts.QG‑11, Naugarduko 36, tel. (+370) 60 99 90 02, www.senojitrobele.lt. Open 11:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €11. TAULBSW

LITHUANIAN DISHES

Traditional Lithuanian dishes One-of-its kind interior in Lithuanian style In the very heart of the Old Town FORTO DVARAS is the first traditional Lithuanian food restaurant that has been certified by the CULINARY HERITAGE FUND

Pilies str. 16, Vilnius Tel. +370 656 13688 www.fortodvaras.lt

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August - November 2017

Restaurants FISH ŠTURMŲ ŠVYTURYS Over in the arty district of Užupis, fish just caught in the Baltic Sea or Curonian Lagoon are displayed on ice in this wonderful little restaurant. In super-fresh and inventive dishes that change every day, seasonal fish are matched with local ingredients – pan-fried pikeperch cheeks with caramelised apple pieces, spinach and basil, for example – and washed down with fine Riesling. If you’re lucky, the amazing fish soup and salted and dried balykas will be available. There are no child-friendly dishes, however. Oars, spears and weathervanes add to décor that pays tribute to the Lithuanian and Prussian fisherfolk of old.QK‑9, Užupio 30, tel. (+370) 65 69 80 00, www.sturmusvyturys.lt. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €10. JAW ŽUVINĖ There are not enough fish restaurants in the Baltics, but Vilnius is blessed because it boasts the best. With an unbeatable location inside the Old Town’s historic Town Hall, a classy, sophisticated ambiance makes Žuvinė perfect for a romantic date. But it’s not pretentious in any way, with attentive and knowledgeable staff, and is great for small groups of fish-fervent friends and family. Besides the tasty seafood, a raw-fish bar and a fabulously rich Bouillabaisse, there’s often also beef tartare and pepper-brandy steak for those who just can’t let go of the meat, plus an excellent wine list. QI‑10, Didžioji 31, tel. (+370) 68 21 91 72, www. zuvine.lt. Open 10:00 - 24:00. From October 1 Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €18. PTJA BSW PILIES KATPĖDĖLĖ Now on Pilies Street, this popular chain serves classic Lithuanian dishes in a folksy setting as well as more international food and that old favourite, the lunchtime special offer. An excellent value introduction to the wonders of local heart-blocking nosh, Pilies Katpėdėlė rustles up salads with thick sauces, pancakes, pizzas, snacks from herring to potato wedges, creamy soups, mains that include tasty sausages and fried salmon and some truly yummy desserts. Wash it all down with a beer or three and a shot of local vodka.QK‑2, Pilies 8, tel. (+370) 61 12 05 76, www.katpedele.lt. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Also at Lukšio 34, Viršuliškių 40 (MADA). €7. PTAEBS

ASIAN BLUE LOTUS This is authentic, top-quality Indian and Thai cuisine in the Old Town. In a subtly exotic interior of bright ochre colours and relaxing eastern music, enjoy the heady aromas and tastes of dishes imbued with lime leaves, lemongrass, fresh galangal and other herbs and spices selected in Asia. 28 Vilnius In Your Pocket

Tender duck breast comes in a rich tamarind sauce and the tom kha soup carries a luscious tumble of flavours. Indian dishes like chicken tikka masala, butter chicken and lamb rogan josh are all highly recommended, as are the paratha and naan breads. Fantastic.QI‑8, Totorių 16, tel. (+370) 62 62 71 96, www.bluelotus.lt. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €8. PTJA SW BRIUSLY Now honing in on more raw fish and vegan options, high-kicking Briusly (Bruce Lee) now does Japanese donburi rice-and-topping dishes and tasty tofu sandwiches alongside its chicken tikka masala and Vietnamese pork ribs, among the many amazing dishes inspired from all over Asia. Easily straddling the gulf between almost-all-hours noshery and club, it dedicates its nights to anything from student parties to surreal cocktail sessions.QH‑9, Islandijos 4, tel. (+370) 69 14 12 05, www.briusly.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. €8. JA BXW GYOZA BAR Acclaimed by many locals, this wafer-thin Japanese-style dumpling bar is fast and friendly, but our most recent foray found it a bit… bland. The tonkatsu pork is crispy, and juicy within, while the salmon on a bed of sushi rice is tasty enough, but the duck gyoza were limp, the teriyaki sauce a touch watery. Fortunately we had some Kiuchi rice ale to wash it down.QVokiečių 14, tel. (+370) 68 88 99 97. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €5. LEAYE Finally Asian, specifically Chinese, cuisine is taken up a few notches, away from the starch and dough-covered fast food and into the more youthful province of hipdom. It’s still fast, but the noodles, spices and sauces are authentic, shipped in regularly so that the fabulous celery stir-fry with cashews, the spicy Sichuan beef and the flavoursome pholike Crossing the Bridge noodle soup all taste like nothing else in Vilnius. Ease down with matcha green-tea ice cream.QDominikonų 16, tel. (+370) 68 85 50 25. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €5. SAIGON A basement off a busy street has been transformed into a Vietnamese chillout zone. The décor subtly evokes paddy fields, the music is calming and the service courteous. A team of chefs from Vietnam ensures the pho soups are teeming with flavours, whether with beef, chicken or tofu, full of spice and aromatic herbs. Even the small portion is filling and complex. The woks are generous, the spring rolls are super-crispy and the beef in black bean sauce with rice is sublime.QA. Jakšto 7, tel. (+370) 69 81 59 40. Open 11:30 - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. €8. vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

FAST FOOD MEATBALLS Celebrating the humble meatball, with horror-movie mincers on display on the walls, this highly casual eatery is testament to the eternal popularity of Eastern European countryside cooking. The meatballs are essentially identical, mostly with beef and with tomato sauce and mash or ciabatta, but on Thursdays curious meatball experiments take place with herbs and spices added. QEtmonų 3, tel. (+370) 60 26 21 78. Open 15:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. €2-5. JAW

FINE DINING IMPERIAL RESTAURANT The five-star Imperial Hotel & Restaurant flagship gourmet restaurant offers the ultimate in dining, from the sophisticated décor through to the mouth-watering food. Billed as the first gourmet restaurant in Lithuania, the food here is taken very seriously indeed and gets most of its inspiration from the melting pot of cuisines coming out of the United States. The menu is impressive and includes a wealth of classy dishes from a much talked-about Caesar salad to fresh lobster and foie gras.QJ‑10, Subačiaus 2 (Imperial Hotel & Restaurant), tel. (+370) 52 38 83 88, www.californiagourmet.lt. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €30. PTJAU BSW 30 Vilnius In Your Pocket

SWEET ROOT A favourite for foodies, much of the food features local root vegetables recreated in inventive ways in combination with meat and fish. Portions are kept deliberately small, allowing you to choose several and experience a variety of flavours. Intriguing ingredients might include evening primrose leaves, chickweed and brain mushrooms. We also loved the desserts, such as caramelised quail egg yolks with pine syrup and sour milk cream. The Spartan interior only highlights the adventurousness of the food.QK‑9, Užupio 22, tel. (+370) 68 56 07 67, www.sweetroot.lt. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. 7 course tasting menu €65, wine pairing €40. TJA6BW

FRENCH SAINT GERMAIN Decorated inside to imitate French shambles chic and further reinforced with plenty of good outdoor seating during the summer, Saint Germain is one of the city’s best French restaurants. Often full of smart locals and in-theknow visitors looking for superior flavours, the atmosphere is certainly one of the best in town, and the wine list equally admirable. What’s more, the excellent food (we loved the grilled scallops with asparagus) is more than affordable. Thoroughly recommended.QJ‑9, Literatų 9, tel. (+370) 52 62 12 10, www.saintgermain.lt. Open 11:00 - 22:30, Last kitchen order 22:30, Sun 22:00. €22. TJA SW vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants FUN RENÉ Les moules are a big reason to visit René on Tuesdays or Thursdays, when the fresh (never frozen) mussels are shipped in and served in nine different ways – in cognac, white wine, oven-roasted with pine nuts and almonds… It’s easy to go nuts over René, which is named after monsieur Magritte. The artist’s visions adorn the walls and there are absurdist touches like cutlery tied with rubberbands, pencils for sketching on the paper-covered tables, and a black umbrella permanently by the door. To dramatic orchestral soundscapes, waitresses in bowler hats serve spicy or sweet rum-marinated pork ribs and a hearty Carcassonne casserole. But book ahead on moules nights. QI‑10, M. Antokolskio 13, tel. (+370) 52 12 68 58, www. restoranasrene.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €12. PTA6 UBS

GOURMET BURGERS BOOM! BURGERS Using Black Angus beef and no frozen or processed foods, this wafer-thin space sandwiched between KFC and Vero Café near the Cathedral is the real deal. Go for a burger with your choice of quality cheese, chicken with rosemary and homemade garlic sauce, or a genuine fillet steak between the buns. The burgers are so delicious it’s tough for the

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courteous, hardworking staff to keep up with demand. At busy times you may have to wait a while, but our beef burger with pulled pork and BBQ sauce was worth the 20 minutes. There’s a veggie option too, plus a good range of beers, but just one wine.QI‑8, Gedimino 1a-1, tel. (+370) 65 21 45 34, www.boomburgers.lt. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €8. PTJASW

GRILL BON CHOP Choose from the tightly packaged chunks of meat on display in this lean but polished shop and bistro on treelined Vokiečių Street, hailing from Paraguay, Australia, New Zealand, Ireland, Germany and elsewhere. The tender New York strip steak is a standout, if they have it, but the fatty Picanha – the sirloin cap near the tail – from Uruguay is just stunning. Combine with salad or grilled veg – or take it away for the barbeque.QVokiečių 11, tel. (+370) 64 03 55 25. Open 13:30 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PANAMA FOOD GARDEN Take a step away from the bustle of the Old Town and head across the river to this excellent restaurant set inside an old wooden house in the leafy residential district of Žvėrynas. The pedigree of the owners is good having already created the popular Meat Lovers Pub, but in contrast this is a little

August - November 2017

Restaurants more upmarket with a smart but relaxed atmosphere. There are two main reasons to jump in a taxi and pop over here, the food and the garden. You’ll find the changing menu chalked up on a board from which we chose duck in onion gravy and a beautifully prepared tuna, both of which were delicious. The place to enjoy it is in the peaceful garden, one of the loveliest dining spaces in the city. Note that the kitchen closes an hour earlier than the restaurant, except on Mon, Tue, Wed when it closes two hours earlier.QE‑7, Vykinto 17a, tel. (+370) 65 08 28 29. Kitchen Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 21:00. Bar Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. €15. TJA6ESW STRANGE LOVE Intimate, sophisticated and a touch mysterious, this dining spot is just how you’d wish your partner was, and it makes beautiful food too. With a relaxing location by the gates of Sereikiškių Park, it’s perfect for a filled croissant and Irish coffee or Kusmi tea by day and, by night, a romantic hideaway as the kitchen upstairs starts working and every table is taken. Tenderloin, lamb, pearl barley risotto, fine wine and friendly service were the standouts when we visited. Book ahead.QJ‑8, Barboros Radvilaitės 6b, tel. (+370) 62 66 92 18, www.strangelove.lt. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. €12. PJA6SW THE TOWN CONTEMPORARY GRILL & BAR Absolutely one of the best options for meaty dining in Vilnius, The Town exudes a New York ambiance in

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its chunkily modern décor, city-light colours, comfy seating, congenial service and upbeat jazzy notes from the speakers. It’s a welcoming spot at all times, from its sumptuous breakfast to late-night drinks. Try the generous slab of beef tartare, the excellent gourmet burger or any of the succulent steaks; UDSA-grade rib eye and entrecote may be on the board. Fish and seafood get a mention too, including octopus and seared tuna, but here it’s really all about the meat. Choose from optional sides and sauces. QH‑8, Gedimino 26, tel. (+370) 52 03 12 28, www.town. lt. Open 08:00 - 10:30, 11:30 - 22:00, Fri open 08:00 10:30, 11:30 - 23:00, Sat open 09:30 - 13:30, 14:00 23:00, Sun open 09:30 - 13:30, 14:00 - 18:00. €16. PT JASW ZOE’S BAR & GRILL Zoe’s has consistently been getting everything right for years, from its enviable cathedral-side location to its eclectic menu of classic food. Swedish-owned, naturally the meatballs are amazing, while the beef in the burger is cooked just as you prefer it. This is superior cuisine, not fast food, but served in a casual space with a friendly hum and a professional open kitchen, with plentiful outdoor seating in summer and often DJs at weekends. Featuring everything from a recommended BLT to some excellent Thai dishes, Zoe’s is still the one to beat. Note that the kitchen closes an hour earlier than the bar.QI‑8, Odminių 3, tel. (+370) 52 12 33 31, www.zoesbargrill.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €15. PTJAES

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Restaurants

INDIAN SUE’S INDIAN RAJA One of the best restaurants in the Baltics, Sue’s constantly impresses with a fabulous range of dishes made with handpicked and hand-mixed spices by a team of top Indian chefs overseen by the uniquely charming Wing Commander Rajinder Chaudhary. We drop in on a regular basis, most recently indulging in a rich tilapia tikka, some powerful chicken jalfrezi and a creamy vegetable makhani straight from the Punjab. The location by the cathedral is unbeatable, service courteous, the overall experience magical.QI‑8, Odminių 3, tel. (+370) 52 66 18 88/(+370) 52 66 18 87, www. suesindianraja.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €12. PTJAVBSW

INTERNATIONAL BISTRO 18 A combined restaurant and wine shop, Bistro 18 specialises primarily in dishes from the world of European seasonal cuisine including French onion soup, risotto, pasta and scores of meatheavy dishes such as beef and rabbit. There are tasty desserts too and the aforementioned wine shop is well-stocked. There’s little sympathy for vegetarians here, but if you’re into classy dining on one of old Vilnius’ most scenic lanes this might just be the place for you. Note that the kitchen closes two hours before the restaurant does.QI‑9, Stiklių 18, tel. (+370) 67 77 20 91, www.bistro18.lt. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €8-16. PTJA6BS facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

BIZARRE In an extraordinarily, darkly, almost industrially intricate interior with odd East Asian touches, housed even more weirdly in a former hospital in the old Jewish quarter, faultlessly presented Asian, Peruvian and Mediterranean dishes and creamy desserts are served. Sharply dressed locals enjoy late-evening weekend parties on the second floor with live music and fine wine. Sumptuous if pricey weekend brunches and weekday menus keep the Vilnius elite rolling in at all hours.QPylimo 38, tel. (+370) 61 26 44 44. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00, Lunch Mon - Fri 12:00 - 16:00. Brunch Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. €22. PT A U B W CARRÉ It may not be inspired by John le Carré, but its interior is as dark and twisting as a spy thriller. Yet the menu of this elegant ‘bar & lounge’ inside the flashy city-centre GO9 shopping mall is no mystery. Caesar salad with chicken seems very popular but the steak, grilled tuna and mussels in tomato sauce are super, too. Flustered at busy weekday lunchtimes, by evening it’s a more inviting cocktail-driven prospect, especially if the outdoor terrace is open.QI‑8, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 68 79 01 59. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €10. PTJA UBSW August - November 2017

Restaurants

Cozy

COZY One of the great survivors of the Old Town bar scene, Cozy combines an outstanding range of food and drinks with one of the city’s best locations. Pulled pork spring rolls, glazed pork ribs, sticky Jamaican jerk chicken and Vilnius’ finest Caesar salads are gobbled up in a comfy zen décor or at the highly prized streetside tables in summer. If you’re not having the sweet Seno rūsio beer or the latest seasonal brew from Vilkmerges, the white Russian cocktail is so big and creamy they use an expletive to describe it. Rotating exhibitions of artful photography and friendly welcomes and farewells from the bar staff round off the experience. QI‑9, Dominikonų 10, tel. (+370) 52 61 11 37, www. cozy.lt/en/. Open 08:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 03:00. €8. PJA6BSW

34 Vilnius In Your Pocket

FORTAS One of the better casual dining spots in Naujamiestis, just west of the Old Town, Fortas does an outstanding gingery chicken soup, perfectly decent gnocchi and dishes from here and there like schnitzel, beef stroganoff and (a bit spongey) fish and chips. Amiable uniformed waitresses, a comfy if slightly faded chain-pub interior and easygoing atmosphere round off the expectations. Dishes are designed with precision, leaving little room for surprises, good or bad.QG‑10, Algirdo 17, tel. (+370) 65 20 11 38, www.fortas.eu. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €6. PTASW GREY The city’s most visible new restaurant, over the road from the Grand Dukes’ Palace and Cathedral, is all wide windows and bright lights, its solid grey space and spacious tables a refreshing change from the bank branch that used to be here. The house burger is excellent with its melting cheddar and fried bacon, as are the fajitas and pastas. Take a bench on the right to work your laptop. Upstairs it’s even better, tables romantically cloistered by high-backed seating, efficiently attended to by polite, uniformed staff. A separate menu boasts pork-belly roast and duck with caramelised apples, with veggie options too. A touch stony overall perhaps, but well-conducted.QJ‑8, Pilies 2, tel. (+370) 63 32 26 77, www.restoranasgrey.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Restaurant €15. Bar €8. PTAUW

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Restaurants

HABIT The idea here is that the fusion-style dishes with a twist will keep customers coming back – out of habit. Though the high-ish prices may stop that happening for some, it’s certainly a temptation. Trained in Michelin-star restaurants, the chef balances octopus carpaccio with chorizo powder, or chorizo popcorn with corn-fed chicken. The wines are excellent too; order a musky Muscadet with the oysters. Or go for a sumptuous, sociable weekend brunch. Leave room for the masterful desserts. Paintings by local artists change regularly, but if it’s warm take a table on the roof and watch the sunset down Gedimino.QGedimino 32a, tel. (+370) 68 61 99 55. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. €15. PTJAW KITCHEN A popular choice for inventive casual dining, Kitchen has an angular, chunky wooden décor and doesn’t get unnecessarily carried away with the menu. On recent visits we’ve enjoyed a fabulous beef stew with chips and an aromatic plate of miniature fishcakes. There’s an extensive wine list too. A good choice for those wanting to impress without breaking the bank. Couples love the much soughtafter balcony seating, but it can’t be reserved.QJ‑10, Didžioji 11 (2nd floor), tel. (+370) 68 88 05 58. Open 11:30 - 24:00. €15. PTJA6SW PAUPIO12 This is the smartest Paupio Street has ever been. For centuries, the fag end of Užupis was a lair for the washed-

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up dregs of society but today we have chic hangouts like Paupio12. An old house stripped to the rafters and reworked with faultless contemporary design, it’s almost overly self-conscious. Our tattooed uniformed waitress brought flourless homemade bread and herby oil while we waited, quite a while, for super-creamy cauliflower soup and pizza. Which is all we could afford. Other dishes need add-on side dishes, and with wine too the bill can be a small fortune.QPaupio 12, tel. (+370) 67 60 99 12. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €16. PT A6UBW RHUM ROOM The Caribbean-inspired bites are fun to share at the Old Town’s premier dedicated rum bar, from the smoked mackerel accras fritters with a rum and mango sauce to the spicy Jamaican jerk ‘lollipops’. As the ceiling fans spin

Rhum Room

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Restaurants and calypso plays, choose from hundreds of bottles from all over the Caribbean and beyond: the sweet and dark Venezuelan Diplomatico, for example, or the spiced Pusser’s British Navy rum. Cocktails are on offer too, such as a basil green-tea concoction that’s frothily fantastic.QVilniaus 39, tel. (+370) 52 50 48 54. Open 11:30 - 00:30, Fri 11:30 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €9. JAB TRINITY It may seem sacrilegious, but decadent Trinity injects precious life into one of the Old Town’s many old monasteries. Abstract monochrome canvases, strippedsmooth branches, intoxicating tropical jazz and nu-lounge beats may have shocked the monks, but as waitresses ferry dishes and drinks between the tables you can’t help asking why more restaurants can’t feel like this. Beer-braised pork ribs and duck breast with cranberry-flavoured couscous jazz up the modest menu with a couple of noodle dishes thrown in, making Trinity a convenient late-evening launch pad for the bar and club downstairs. Beware the Zombie cocktail – two of these and the voodoo will start to kick in.QVilniaus 30, tel. (+370) 66 67 47 77, www.web. tablein.com/trinity/. Open Mon 11:00 - 22:00, Tue, Wed 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Coctail bar open Tue, Wed 18:00 - 24:00, Thu 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Night club open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. €14. PTJABW

ITALIAN OSTERIA PIZZERIA A’ ROMA One of the few places in the city with a charcoal grill, lending the beef a special flavour, it also does thin and crispy metre-pizza (or at least 80cm) at a fair price. The menu features typical Roman cuisine, hence the name, which could mean ‘in Rome’ or ‘aroma’, and in addition to a fine gourmet burger and ‘tagliata’ cuts, you can also enjoy pasta with black truffles from Umbria and other dishes inspired by traditional Italian cuisine. Wash it all down with Montepulciano wine, then indulge in tiramisu.QI‑10, Vokiečių 18a, tel. (+370) 52 12 17 17. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €12. PJA6BSW

Tempting cuisine at Sorrentino

36 Vilnius In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

SORRENTINO It may be located on the tourist trail a few steps from the Gates of Dawn, but this informal and very special ristorante with its mainly seafood menu, charming frescoes, tiled floor, simple furniture and calming Italian tunes feels like a corner of Campania. Named after the chef, it serves up genuine, unadulterated Neapolitan fare featuring prawns, swordfish and sea bass, plus a terrific octopus salad drenched in olive oil and lemon, served on a black slate. Romantic couples and small groups clink glasses of prosecco and Sicilian wine, and there’s a few dishes for kids, too.QAušros vartų 15, tel. (+370) 60 07 87 92, www.sorrentino.lt/landingpage-en. html. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €12. JABW ST. VALENTINO Fantastic in summer when the seating spills outside across the street, St. Valentino is worth visiting in any season. Its pastas and pizzas as well as more adventurous dishes like bulgur wheat with octopus and asparagus are a cut above the norm, as its army of faithful local visitors will gladly testify.QI‑9, Vilniaus 47/18, tel. (+370) 65 26 57 77, www.stvalentino.lt. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €15. PTJABSW

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MEDITERRANEAN TERRAVINO Conjuring up a fruity French and Mediterranean vibe in the music and décor, Terravino gives the impression of being an informal restaurant where some enthusiastic foodie and his mates have finally opened that bucket-list place they were always dreaming about. And they do it exceedingly well. We loved the gently caramelised octopus with an assortment of natural accompaniments but you could equally just drop in for bruschetta and wine. An ideal spot for couples and small groups.QSubačiaus 6A, tel. (+370) 69 65 50 55, https:// terravino.lt/. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €8.

MOROCCAN MAGHRIB An oasis of Saharan exoticism can be found a few steps up the hill from the Angel of Užupis. Images of Morocco are everywhere, even in the newspaper clippings on the ceilings, and Berber chants drift from the speakers like a desert breeze as the waiter pours mint tea into your glass. About half the menu is vegetarian. Begin with Moroccan lentil soup or crisp spinach-and-goat-cheese briwat pastries with peanut-and-caper sauce. Move on to crusty ribs, lamb or fish tajine or stuffed eggplant. Fabulous.QK‑9, Užupio 22, tel. (+370) 61 49 82 83. Open 16:30 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Fri. €13. PTJA6SW August - November 2017

Restaurants

NOODLES RAMENAS IR PAGALIUKAI Wear your serviette high and slurp down a hearty bowl of ramen noodles at this slender joint near the cathedral. Despite its plasticky look it’s not as budget as you might expect, but the bowls are peppered with tender duck, pork, shiitake, bamboo sprouts, etc. And the six variously spiced choices of dish can be added to with extra ingredients if needed, as the soup-spattered menu makes clear. After chopsticking up the solids, don’t be afraid to pick up the bowl and slurp down the broth.QL. Stuokos - Gucevičiaus 7, tel. (+370) 65 19 71 32. Open Mon-Thu 11:30 - 14:30, 16:30 - 21:00. Fri Open 11:30 - 14:30, 16:30 - 23:00. Sat Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun Open 12:00 - 18:00. Also at Lakūnų 14B (Ogmios miestas). €7. PJAW

PIZZA CASA LA FAMILIA This is the first pizzeria in Lithuania offering exclusive gourmet vegetarian pizzas with incredible flavours and nothing but the finest ingredients. Located in the Old Town, it offers the best possible choice of vegetarian and vegan pizzas, fresh juice cocktails and homemade desserts, not to mention a cosy environment. The pizzas at Casa La Familia are made from top-quality flour, homemade sheep’s and goats’ cheese, pine nuts, roasted beetroot, truffles and, the main ingredient, lots of love.QRūdninkų 18, tel. (+370) 67 59 59 39, www. casalafamilia.lt. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €6.5. TJAW

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JURGIS IR DRAKONAS Jurgis is the local name for George, and the dragon is the shapely pizza oven. A popular spot, like its previous outof-town incarnation, expect it to be busy at any time of day, and as they don’t take reservations you may need to wait. We say the wait is worth it as just about everything, including the flour, is brought from Italy and the pizzas are thin and crisp right from the dragon’s mouth. Quite possibly, they’re the finest pizzas in town.QH‑9, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 60 07 79 77, www.jurgisirdrakonas.lt. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Also at Verkių 29 (Ogmios miestas), Ozo 25 (Akropolis). €6. PTJASW

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App MONSTRO Big, uncouth, devil-may-care, crispy-edged, thick and puffy rectangular wedges of pizza, burned just a touch, and matching heavenly ingredients like gorgonzola and pear, pesto and raisin, or turkey and pistaccio are eagerly consumed with craft beers and Tussock Jumper wine. If there are no seats left in this nanoscopic niche, take your pizza to a table in one of the neighbouring bars.QArklių 6, tel. (+370) 61 33 73 39. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. €6.

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Restaurants SPANISH & TAPAS

Livin’ it up at the California Tapas & Wine

PORTUGUESE GALO DO PORTO Portuguese-style skewered-meat espetadas are the highlight here, suspended from a hook and drawing gasps as they arrive at the table. But there are many other beautifully presented dishes too, from thick Francesinha sandwiches covered in melted cheese to the sumptuous steaks, ribs and burgers. And the atmosphere of this tastefully designed centuries-old room, its sheltered summertime courtyard and even the tunnel to the toilets create a memorable experience.QJ‑11, Aušros vartų 11, tel. (+370) 68 61 83 17. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €18. TJAEBSW

CALIFORNIA TAPAS & WINE Aiming to introduce tapas to the local population among other things, this Spanish-themed restaurant/bar on two floors provides a bit of everything, from a first-floor café complete with open kitchen serving dishes like Basque fish soup and grilled meat to a labyrinth of rooms downstairs for long evenings of eating and drinking. QJ‑10, Subačiaus 2 (Imperial Hotel & Restaurant), tel. (+370) 65 26 55 51, www.california.lt. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. PJA BSW NIÑO The cracking little medieval cellar space under Cozy now operates in the guise of a lounge-like tapas bar. The delicacies in question more or less measure up to the real thing, the English-speaking staff are frightfully nice and, if you’re the type of person who doesn’t agree with fancy food, it’s possible to spend hours down there soaking up nothing more than the atmosphere and lots and lots of alcohol. The attached restaurant-bar upstairs is pretty good too.QI‑9, Šv. Ignoto 16, tel. (+370) 52 61 11 37, www.ninobaras.lt/en/. Open Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. €4. PJ A S W

A’Roma Osteria, a Vilnius favourite

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August - November 2017

Restaurants STEAK MEAT LOVERS PUB You’ll be lucky to find a table at this popular, cosy rendezvous for passionate carnivores. The meat dishes are cooked to perfection and our T-bone steak was one of the finest we’ve ever eaten. The ribs are finger-licking, the soups and snacks satisfying, the burgers and grilled sausages among the best in town. Take away your order if there’s no spare table. In keeping with the theme, fish and veggie options are next to non-existent.QI‑9, Šv. Ignoto 14, tel. (+370) 65 25 12 33, www.meatloverspub.lt. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €8. PTA6SW STEAKHOUSE HAZIENDA Enter the secluded courtyard of the Mabre Residence hotel and turn left to find this gem of a restaurant, ideal as a centrally located hideaway for a secret date or for a sheltered business meeting. Practically all of the grills are seductive, from the prime Argentine steak and the venison tenderloin to the bass and the bream. The knowledgeable staff will be able to tell you about the origins of all of the raw materials.QJ‑9, Maironio 13 (Mabre Hotel), tel. (+370) 52 12 13 89, www.mabre.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PTJAEBW

SUSHI SUSHI STOP The best and most centrally located sushi bar in Vilnius can be found a few steps from the cathedral. Fresh scallops, salmon and tuna marinated in a secret recipe make the sashimi the real standout here, but the shitake, chicken or vegetable spring rolls and the hot, melt-in-the-mouth panko sushi are also delectable.QGedimino 2a, tel. (+370) 68 62 99 77, https://sushistop.lt/. Open 11:00 22:00, Thu 11:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Also at Kęstučio 24a. JA

VEGAN/VEGETARIAN ALIVE The self-proclaimed plant-food restaurant Alive raises the bar for the other vegetarian and vegan food stops in the city. There’s none of the plain old fare here like veggie stews and heavy porridge. The dishes are delicate, the ingredients and combinations visionary, sometimes even luxurious, the presentation elegant. Unlike other vegan and vegetarian venues, you’ll find a tasting menu and a selection of fine wines and champagne. Such a refreshing approach to veggie cuisine has been a long time coming in Vilnius.QGedimino 31, tel. (+370) 63 91 00 88. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €8. JAW

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Restaurants

GYVAS BARAS Many of the dishes at this informal eatery are vegan, with daily specials chalked up according to whatever’s in season. You might find tofu burgers, veggie tacos, oven-roasted aubergines, pumpkin soup, carrot pancakes and other delights. The interior may be lacking in character, but the staff are warm and helpful.QI‑10, Trakų 11/2, tel. (+370) 65 69 29 39, www.gyvasbaras.lt. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Thu 11:30 - 23:00, Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. €5.5. PJA6VSW HOLIGANS Adding to the small but growing spectrum of cheap and casual leafy eateries, the inappropriately named Holigans delights bookish types with creamy pea soup, veggie protein and beetroot burgers in dense, bready baps, and a stew that features just about every local vegetable you can name. Glorious cakes too. The interior is designed a bit like a kindergarten, with coat pegs, cheerful sketches on the walls, colourful chairs and daily specials chalked up on a blackboard, and the people are welcoming. QŠopeno 10, tel. (+370) 61 55 07 45, www.holigans. lt/. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €4. PAW

VENEZUELAN AREPERA Made from cornmeal that’s been cooked and dehydrated, arepas with all kinds of fillings are hugely popular in Venezuela and Colombia – and now you can try them authentically made in Vilnius. In a space not much bigger than a cupboard, the young Venezuelans sing to salsa and merengue as they cook. The ‘pelua’ version combines “delicious stewed meat” and gouda cheese as a filling. Other highlights are chicken and avocado mayo, or black beans with white cheese. You’re guaranteed to make a mess, but don’t worry, you’re allowed to.QTotorių 7-2, tel. (+370) 67 17 10 54. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun.

NAMAI Vegetarian and vegan dishes are rustled up in a familyfriendly bistro a few steps from the main tourist sites of Aušros Vartų. Ingredients are sourced locally and made into stir-fries, curries, falafel, paneer, soups, salads, bakes and some amazing desserts like waffles, panna cotta and a much-loved chocolate cake. Two or three dishes are made specifically for kids.QSubačiaus 6, tel. (+370) 62 02 22 91. Open 11:30 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €6. TJA6W ZATAR FALAFEL&HUMMUS Simple and speedily effective, Zatar is falafel and hummus – and only that, just about, with veggie adornments, olive oil, sauces and pita bread, and washed down with local birch juice. It’s as satisfying as any burger. Split-level seating, plants and ferns spice up the décor.QVokiečių 9, www.zatar.lt. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Thu 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €4.85. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

August - November 2017

Cafés

Dig into delicious cakes and pastries at Cozy

CAFES BOOKAFE Regardless of whether you browse one of the predominantly non-English tomes that line the walls of this book-worshipping coffee shop on one of the Old Town’s loveliest lanes, the delish curd, apple, chocolate and other cakes and pastries are more than worth dropping in for. Posh ice cream, healthy salads and sandwiches add to the allure.QStiklių 16, tel. (+370) 69 84 62 75. Open 09:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. ELSKA COFFEE Our Ethiopian bokasso flat white was beautifully, earthily herby at this popular café overlooking one of Vilnius’ liveliest junctions. Using whatever beans are being roasted by its partners in Riga, Elska will do an espresso, cold coffee or latte that’s guaranteed to pick you up. For real beanheads, there’s a ‘brew bar’ of Chemex and other possibilities. A limited choice of sweet stuff, or a smoothie, will give an extra kick.QPamėnkalnio 1, tel. (+370) 61 03 43 35, www.elskacoffee.lt/. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. EXPRESSIVE Calling itself a ‘gourmet café’, Expressive has décor as stylishly dark as its coffee, friendly service, scrumptious carrot cake and Sicilian ricotta-filled cannoli. A couple of homemade hot dishes may be on offer too, like spinach and ricotta lasagne. Drop by if you’re near Basanavičiaus Street.QJ. Basanavičiaus 9, tel. (+370) 60 11 70 23. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Fri 08:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Sat, Sun. 42 Vilnius In Your Pocket

HURACÁN COFFEE One of the country’s top coffee-house chains, Šviežia Kava’s Gedimino 9 outlet is housed inside a bookshop no less, making for the perfect environment to drink quality espresso and the like amidst a wealth of literature. Laptop-tappers abound, however. Amazing fruit juices include raspberry made with vacuum evaporation technology. Keep an eye out for other Huracán branches, like the one at Vokiečių 15, which plays vinyl records in a pleasantly darkened interior.QI‑10, Vokiečių 15, tel. (+370) 52 50 60 92, www.huracan.lt. Open 07:00 22:00, Also at Gedimino 9, Gedimino 35, Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), Upės 9, Savanorių 22. PJAU SW KAVOS ERA We’ve enjoyed quite possibly the best eggs and bacon in Lithuania at this high-ceiling café serving all-day breakfasts, beigels stuffed with fillings like brie and avocado, BBQ polar sandwiches, gourmet omelettes and freshly baked croissants. The coffees and fresh juices are just fine too. If you’re close to the Forum Vingis cinema on the slowly renewing nearer stretch of Savarorių, look no further. QSavanorių 6, tel. (+370) 52 03 07 63. Open 07:30 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. A PINK MILK SHAKE The Oreo shakes get a big pink star at this cutesy fiveseater box in the Old Town cunningly located opposite a school. The mint-chocolate shake is an acquired taste but the Snickers, Bounty, apple pie and strawberry vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Cafés shakes are a hit, each smothered in whipped cream and coloured sauces and delivering a month’s recommended sugar intake in a single handy plastic cup.QVilniaus 45, tel. (+370) 60 70 74 48. Open 11:00 - 21:00. PJ AW SŪRIO DŽIUGAS NAMAI Lithuania’s most famous cheese, hard and not dissimilar to parmesan, is the focus at this café where you can also buy attractively packaged baskets and gift-boxes of Džiugas matured to 12, 18 or 36 months. Almost everything is made using the cheese, including savoury pastries with spinach or chicken and almonds, heated in a microwave. The sweet selection is the real draw, such as soft little meltin-the-mouth balls with biscuit or nuts and creamy slices of cake. Service can vary, from friendly mature ladies to scowling youngsters.QI‑8, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 52 40 78 78, www.dziugashouse.lt. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Also at Aušros vartų 3, Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP). TASTE MAP Get a coffee freshly roasted and expertly prepared at this new corner café in one of the city’s leafier districts. Our flat white and just-baked almond pasty were reviving during a stroll down Čiurlionio, one of Vilnius’ most charming streets outside the Old Town, to Vingis Park. Local herb teas, hot chocolate and cascara – coffee cherry tea – make up the alternatives.QG‑9, M. K. Čiurlionio 8, tel. (+370) 62 68 04 83/(+370) 62 92 91 36, www.tastemap.lt. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. J6E XSW THEOBROMINE CHOCOLATIER Named after the bitter alkaloid of the cacao plant, this outstanding chocolatier on an Old Town side street conducts amazing experiments in the basement. The results are brought to the surface in the form of psychedelically coloured chocs – made with mint leaves, Earl Grey tea, Gruyère and apple, etc. – to be bought in boxes of between five and 25. Devour on the premises with coffee or naturally infused Wostok lemonade, or take away.QVokiečių 18a. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Mon, Tue 10:00 - 20:00.

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BAKERIES PILIES KEPYKLĖLĖ Treated as a café by many who visit, this popular daytime meeting place functions as a café, bakery and crêperie all in one. Ideal for taking difficult grandmothers, the baked goods are better than many in the area, the coffee does wonders for a stubborn hangover and the crêpes are some of the best in the city.QJ‑9, Pilies 19, tel. (+370) 52 60 89 92. JA BS PINAVIJA Pandering to those looking for a more healthy lifestyle this combined bakery and café specialises in a wide range of treats made from natural ingredients. Offering both the choice of eating in or taking away, the menu is impressive and features everything from classic Lithuanian and international savoury pastries to a mind-boggling array of cakes and desserts. There’s also an area for children at the back.QH‑8, Vilniaus 21, tel. (+370) 67 64 44 22, www.pinavija.lt/. Open 09:00 - 20:00. PTJ ABSW THIERRY KEPYKLA Currently making waves as the best place in town for croissants and coffee for breakfast and now boasting a lot more space with a grand total of nine tables, any half-way decent addition to the generally grim selection of bakeries in Vilnius is more than welcome. A bit out of the way at the top of a steep Užupis hill, by all accounts the walk is worth the effort.QK‑9, Užupio 13, tel. (+370) 67 90 90 81, www.thierrykepykla.lt. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00, Also at Vilniaus 45, Švitrigailos 29, Jasinskio 16a, Verkių 29 (Ogmios miestas). PT JA6SW

CATS CAT CAFE (KAČIŲ KAVINĖ) Cats never tire of attention, and here there’s no end of it. Pouncing on a growing trend, Cat Café is popular with couples, families (but no kids aged under six) and cat lovers of every stripe, so you may have to wait for a table. The moggies are a bit retiring, most of them kipping on comfy perches atop claw-friendly climbing frames. But some will come to you once you have food on the table. The two waitresses are busier than the cats, ferrying dishes from the hatch – potato pancakes, spaghetti, sandwiches, waffles, milkshakes in mini milk bottles and coffee with a cute chocolate paw print on top. Booze is served too, if you fancy an early start to a night on the tiles. Minimum order per person is €3.QG‑8, Jasinskio 1, tel. (+370) 67 13 43 43, www. catcafe.lt. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. PJASW August - November 2017

In June of 2017 for a consecutive year in a row 100 experts of Lithuania’s gastronomic world joined “Good Food Academy” in order to select TOP 30 best restaurants in Lithuania. Here are the results for 2017. These are not the views of Vilnius In Your Pocket.

w w w. 3 0 b e s t r e s t a u r a n t s . l t

2017

GASTRONOMIKA This is a unique restaurant in the context of Lithuania, which is in operation for a very limited time in comparison with others, however, in the context of Vilnius it is a top-level “fine dining” place with a creative ambition and attitude towards the gastronomic culture.

Head chef Managing director Type of cuisine Working hours Address Contact

ACE

Liutauras Čeprackas Liutauras Čeprackas fine dining IV-V from 7pm (except summers) T. Ševčenkos str. 16i, Vilnius www.gastronomika.lt / +370 699 37770

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ACE

DŽIAUGSMAS

NÜMAN

One of the best chefs in Lithuania, Martynas Praškevičius, whose another restaurant Stebuklai became the best restaurant in Lithuania last year, for three years had an idea to open Džiaugsmas (Lithuanian: “joy”). Finally in February 2017, a real joy for Lithuanians was opened – a restaurant-bistro, which uses only Lithuanian products.

This is one of the brightest debuts in the restaurants’ business in the entire Lithuania and, undoubtedly, a new gastronomic leader in Kaunas. The cuisine of Nüman – a seasonal Scandinavian DNA with a priority towards fine dining, without a la carte and operating in the principle of tasting dinners.

Head chef Managing director Type of cuisine Working hours Address Contact

Martynas Praškevičius Karolis Šlikas local cuisine II-VI 4pm-11pm Vilniaus str. 28, Vilnius www.dziaugsmas.com / +370 631 11153

Matas Paulinas Gitana & Tadas Survilos fine dining II-VI 4pm-12am Nemuno str. 43, Kaunas www.numan.lt / +370 611 54439

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ŠTURMŲ ŠVYTURYS MONAI One of the best chefs in Lithuania, Vytautas Samavičius, had long dreamt about a place where you could spend an evening with your family, organise business meetings or just spend your time with friends, a place where the plates are full of improvisation, seasonal character and elegance. Head chef Managing director Type of cuisine Working hours Address Contact

Vytautas Samavičius Kristina Samavičienė family restaurant II-V 11:30am-10pm, VI 12:00pm-10pm, VII 11am-4pm Liepų str. 4, Klaipėda www.restoranasmonai.lt / +370 626 63362

Šturmų Švyturys serves as a proof that even in the modern world which is always in a hurry, you can find something genuine, peace, passion and... exceptionally fresh fish. Those who visit these restaurants on the shore of the Curonian Lagoon or in Vilnius, in Užupis quarter, find themselves as if in the alternative reality with no problems and get to try extremely fresh local fish with exclusive seasonal garnish. Head chef Managing director Type of cuisine Working hours Address Contact

Česlovas Žemaitis Česlovas & Asta Žemaičiai Lithuanian fresh fish restaurant I-VII 12pm-10pm (in Vilnius), I-VII 1pm-9pm (in Ventės ragas from 16 June) Užupio str. 30, Vilnius & Ventės Ragas, Šturmai www.sturmusvyturys.lt / +370 656 98000

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ACE

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ACE

DINE

G A S PA R ’ S

Vilnius

+370 672 23272

201 7

SWEET ROOT

ACE

Vilnius

+370 685 60767

IDW ESPERANZA RESORT Trakai

+370 657 07050

201 7

ACE

201 7

+370 698 78378

ACE

201 7

ACE

MOMO GRILL

STEBUKLAI

Klaipėda

Vilnius

+370 693 12355

+370 685 85357

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PA L A N G A

UOKSAS Kaunas

+370 686 38881

Palanga

201 7

ACE

+370 460 41414

201 7

ACE

T I ’A NA

NERIJA

Vilnius

Nida

+370 643 28888

201 7

ACE

+370 682 38948

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ACE

SOMM

BIZARRE

SOFA DE PA NC H O

Vilnius

+370 684 64622

ACE

+370 612 64444

+370 673 89 002

ACE

201 7

ACE

201 7

20 PL

ACE

ONORĖ

IMPERIAL

Palanga

Vilnius

+370 685 38414

+370 5 238 8388

201 7

22 PL

201 7

SAINT GERMAIN

ACE

Vilnius

24 PL

+370 5 262 1210

ACE

201 7

DUBLIS Vilnius

+370 674 41922

ACE

201 7

25 PL

ACE

M O N T E PAC I S

DA ANTONIO

Kaunas

Vilnius

+370 655 95185

+370 5 262 0109

201 7

26 PL

T E L EGR A FA S

RIB ROOM Vilnius

+370 5 210 3012

Vilnius

201 7

27 PL

ACE

+370 5 220 1600

201 7

28 PL

29 PL

ACE

V E LV E T T I

PUŠŲ PAU N K S N Ė J E

Druskininkai

Palanga

+370 611 41330

+370 460 49080

201 7

30 PL

ACE

RISE

A PVA L AUS STA LO K LU BA S

Vilnius

Trakai

+370 684 86456

ACE

+370 528 55595

Nightlife

Make a splash at Vilnius’ best cocktail bars / Shutterstock

Now that the city’s wine-drinking crowd have their own places to imbibe, the city’s nightlife entrepreneurs are turning their attention to the subject of beer, namely the regular openings of new places selling brown frothy drinks made in small microbreweries around the country. The best are listed here. Some clubs, but not all, apply a cover charge. For the less rowdy, there are plenty of cosier bars worth seeking out. The clubs remain almost exclusively mainstream, whilst the city’s gay and lesbian scene is almost as far underground as a Soviet nuclear test site. Note that face control is currently on the rise in Vilnius; if yours doesn’t fit, forget it. Wearing a decent pair of shoes usually helps. Leave your trainers at home and have fun! NIGHT SHIFTS The times when Vilnius’ nightlife seemed a bit limited have virtually gone. But the illuminated streets are definitely at their liveliest late on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, usually after 10pm. The city’s night scene is constantly changing, with a lot of the action now taking place on certain streets in the Old Town such as Islandijos, Vilniaus, Labdarių, Totorių, Stiklių, Vokiečių, Didžioji and Aušros Vartų Don’t forget to take in Paparazzi, masters of the mixed drink, once it reopens in late September. The gradual process of gentrification taking place throughout Lithuania unfortunately means that oncelegendary watering holes like the raucous Writers’ Union Bar, which is now a rather more acceptable cocktail bar (at Sirvydo 6), are disappearing from the city centre. Try edgier bars near Halės Market, around the end of Pylimo Street. 48 Vilnius In Your Pocket

LOCAL BREWS Try the beers brewed on site, or at boutique breweries around the country, at casual bars like Alaus Biblioteka, Būsi Trečias and Bukowski Baras. For a taste of something very local and a bit odd, squeeze into Šnekutis, which alternates its beers so regularly it sticks handwritten notes on the taps. The craft beer trend continues to evolve, with brews such as those in the Dundulis family, like Humulupu IPA, worth seeking out. But some beers, like the all-butunpronounceable Raudonų Plytų Uosto Naujokas have been concocted by Lithuania’s big breweries to cash in. CLUB ACTION For all-night (almost) dancefloor action, several venues provide memorable combinations of excellent sound and light systems, great drinks and friendly strangers. Indeed Vilnius has a little something for everyone in this regard. Enjoy a touch of the exotic and fabulous cocktails at Mojo Lounge or Latino-pop and a slightly more mature throng at Pabo Latino. Bix Bar

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Nightlife Artistai

BARS ARTISTAI The strongest side of this live music bar is its huge courtyard with an impressive terrace in summer and the chance to see performances by talented and upcoming local artists, who climb up onstage straight from the street (or neighbouring table). Though some shows can be more funny than impressive, the regulars say that it’s only here you can witness performances by truly gifted youngsters. The menu is as diverse and unpretentious as the performances – tasty pizzas, baguettes, pasta, etc. – and there’s oceans of super-popular Lithuanian beer. After the third glass you may want to climb on stage yourself, but before doing that make sure you have something to show.QJ‑10, Šv. Kazimiero 3, tel. (+370) 52 12 12 68, www.artistai.lt. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Mon 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JA6EBSW BIX BIX’s maze-like interior over several floors was probably not designed by some famous Danish architect, but the oldest rock bar in Lithuania does boast a unique charm. It has singlehandedly raised an entire generation of local residents over more than 20 years of operation, who remove their suits and their Lithuanian modesty and who love rock music, the relaxed atmosphere and, of course, the bar’s crucial drink – beer, the selection of which is really good here. If you feel tempted to pop in and try a brew, also order one of the burgers, then another glass, and another. And have a chat with the amiable barmen – you’ll definitely have a great time.QI‑10, Etmonų 6, tel. (+370) 52 62 77 91, www.bix.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. JA 6EBSW

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BUKOWSKI BARAS The hip and the trendy have turned shabby into shabby chic at a bar named after the unrepentant hard-drinking, womanising American poet. He would certainly have approved of the local craft beers, especially the lovely draught Dundulis brews, and an expanded choice of booze lines the wall behind the bar. There are several deadly cocktails too. Opulent hot dogs are grilled and served in trays – with refried beans, macaroni cheddar and, best of all, caramelised onions. Now the courtyard’s closed, outdoor seating spills onto the roadside.QI‑11, Visų Šventųjų 7, tel. (+370) 64 05 88 55. Open 16:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 12:00. JA 6EBW DĖVĖTI Within the space of a few years, this lively bar has become one of the characteristic symbols of the revitalisation of the area surrounding the city’s bus and rail stations. Now it’s a place for get-togethers for casually dressed youngsters, local intellectuals and people who love hearty talks over pints of beer. Come on a Friday and you can enjoy a live concert or funky tribal electronic music party. Exuding life and spirit, its bar is crowned with 14 beer taps – from lager to porter, from wheat to rye, as well as pilsners, IPAs, gruit and exclusive varieties of local ale. Plus there’s a great variety of snacks – even for vegetarians.QI‑11, Sodų 3, tel. (+370) 52 50 27 64/(+370) 67 76 17 68. Open 15:00 01:00. JA6EW DIRTY DUCK Amid a cosy, dark, brick-wood-and-leather interior on the second floor of an Old Town entertainment venue, Newcastle, Guinness, Hoegaarden and other beers are poured, cocktails are expertly mixed – we love the refreshing berry-flavoured house drink – and countless whiskies are deliberated over. Chat to friendly locals to the sound of crowd-pleasing hits, or order super dishes ranging from pork ribs with apple sauce to burgers to fish and chips. But what distinguishes Dirty Duck is its location overlooking the Town Hall, romantically illuminated in the evening.QJ‑10, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 52 31 26 41, www.dirtyduck.eu. Open 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 06:00. PJASW

August - November 2017

Nightlife

ETMONŲ ŠPUNKA An alehouse pouring unfussy, affordable pub beer in a lovely, sloppy, sticky environment in the Old Town, this bar is packed in the evenings with people who crave atmosphere over pretension. The building used to be an experimental medical facility. Sadly, one day soon, it will be turned into a nice, tidy hotel. Until then, take advantage of Dundulis’ seasonal, medieval-style gruit ales, made with heather in November or wormwood in spring. Ask the barman for advice.QEtmonų 3, tel. (+370) 65 09 82 57, www.spunka. lt/. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. KING & MOUSE The owners of this spot, on what could be the Old Town’s tiniest lane, run an intriguing venue for anyone who just can’t get enough whisky. Featuring more than 300 brands, classes and blends from around the world as well as other drinks and decent food, everything is located within two bar spaces and a shop. Surplus to the usual improvised drinking sessions is a range of tasting events and panderings to the connoisseur.QH‑10, Trakų 2, tel. (+370) 65 77 31 21. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JABW PERONAS Perhaps the city’s most daring hipster-style bar of them all, Peronas (‘platform’) takes up a capacious space right by the railway tracks beside the train station. Pleasantly dimly lit, it supplies a steady stream of Moscow mules, dirty martinis and Czech and local beers to thirsty, shambolic crowds that grow in number on weekend nights when DJs and live bands come to play. We especially enjoyed a recent rowdy series of Balkan and klezmer nights.QGeležinkelio 6, tel. (+370) 61 67 47 54. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 01:00, Tue, Wed 17:00 - 02:00. JABW ROCK RIVER CLUB Slurp beer and headbang, or at least stomp your feet, to a diet of classic and heavy rock played at enormous volume in a dark and spacious basement under the riverside shopping centre VCUP. Icons from Jimi to Lemmy greet you from beyond the grave as you descend the stairs, and inside, amiable staff ferry tankards of excellent Rinkuškių and Dundulis beer, chicken wings and mini-burgers. Regular live music veers from blues to rock to punk.QUpės 9, tel. (+370) 68 83 11 81. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Tue, Wed 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. 50 Vilnius In Your Pocket

CHAMPAGNE ÉPERNAY This exclusive cellar bar at the high-end of town livens up on Thursdays when fresh boxes of oysters arrive, often including Muirgen, Tsarskaya, Gillardeau, Perle Blanche and Fines de Claire. Slurp them down among the city’s wealthy elite with cool champagne, classy cocktails - or just beer. QVilniaus 27, tel. (+370) 63 33 32 85. Open 17:00 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JBW THE BUBBLES. CHAMPAGNERIA New to Vilnius but a simple concept, this is an evening bar dedicated to champagnes, sparkling wines and prosecco, at least 30 of each, and on the board a small selection available on that day by the glass. Bubble freaks can spend quality time with a bottle in an ice bucket between them. The interior is 50 shades of black, but it’s friendly, elegant and spotless, the cool dark emphasising the views of the street and the park and the sparkles in your glass.QH‑9, Vilniaus 35, tel. (+370) 64 77 25 57. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. JAW

CLUBS COCAINN Occupying three main rooms catering to different tastes, there’s a lounge for cocktails and the dreaded Tuborg, a quiet room where guests can eat from a menu of gourmet dishes and a good old-fashioned night club with dancing girls dressed as nurses among other things. There’s also a place for smoking cigars. The perfect introduction to Eastern European nightlife.QI‑8, Gedimino 2a, tel. (+370) 60 04 78 62. Open 22:00 - 06:00, Tue 22:00 - 04:00, Wed 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJAW Cocainn

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Nightlife MOJO LOUNGE VILNIUS A gorgeous place, decked out in style without ever going over-the-top, with a powerful sound system, sumptuous lighting and sexy patrons. Mojo Lounge hosts loads of regular parties, wild nights and live events and attracts a varied, affluent crowd. It’s the kind of club where you don’t have to worry about feeling too old, or too young. Top music, and the service is good too (it doesn’t take all night to get a drink). A winner!QI‑10, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 65 76 65 00, www.mojolounge.lt. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance free or from €3. PJAEX PABO LATINO With three halls and two bars of sheer class, Pabo Latino pumps out music that’s either live or courtesy of some excellent DJs, while its massive cocktail menu is full of refreshing delights. The club of choice for 20- and 30-something professionals, it keeps a tough-but-fair door policy so that what you get inside is a well-behaved bunch of smart, good-looking people out for a fun evening in pleasant and sometimes wild surroundings. On some nights there are lessons on how to dance Latino-style, but late on weekend nights the music is as electro as it is Latino.QH‑10, Trakų 3/2, tel. (+370) 52 62 10 45, www. pabolatino.lt. Open Thu 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission free or €5 - 10. PJAEBX

PANTERA Enjoy cool cocktails and hot clubbing at this thumpingly popular venue on the edge of the Old Town, where the crowd who make past the hardworking face control are young, fashionable and supremely attractive, while the place itself is much the same. It looks fabulous, packed with comfy black leather sofas ripe for chilling on with your expertly made drink. Watching the bar staff in action is a night out in itself and the waitresses are as gorgeous as the clientele. You’ll love it the moment you walk in. Tends to be closed in summer.QH‑8, A. Smetonos 5, tel. (+370) 62 63 73 43. Closed for summer. PJA

COCKTAILS APOTEKA (TALES & COCKTAILS) Beardy weirdy chemists conduct alchemy in a shadowy lab lined with bottles and jars, creating the perfect elixir by blending unique juices, infused alcohol and herbs. Designed to induce ecstasy rather than insensibility in its patrons, the resultant potions are not cheap. But our negroni featuring Tanqueray No.Ten, Campari and Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth with a squeeze of zest, strained gently over a big chunk of ice was sublime. The Moscow mule with effervescent homemade ginger beer is also a favourite as are other strange stimulants made with thyme, dill or coriander.QVisų Šventųjų 5, tel. (+370) 67 55 35 65. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. PJAW

Pabo well Latino known luxurious Latin cocktail bar,

-Latin Culture nightclub and terrace in Vilnius -Luxurious interior -Special Cocktails -Famous DJs -Live Music -Open Air Terrace -Dirty Dances Every Night Free Entrance 9-10PM Free Entrance For Girls 9PM-12AM TRAKŲ G. 3/2, VILNIUS | WWW.PABOLATINO.LT | INFO@PABOLATINO.LT | TEL. (5) 262 10 45

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Nightlife DISTILERIJA We enjoyed watching our Smoked Manhattan cocktail get made at this jazzy joint in the Old Town populated mostly by young professionals. The restless yet steady-handed, denim-attired barman blowtorched a piece of wood and placed the glass upside-down on the blackened splinters, then filled it with rye whisky, vermouth and angostura bitters. Sit at the bar and you feel dwarfed by the sheer number of bottles, mostly whiskies, but there are many draught and bottled beers too including English bitter, Witte Parel and the strong local Bocmano ūsai IPA. The food highlights are beer-battered fish and chips, lamb sausages and sticky pork ribs, all excellent.QVilniaus 28, tel. (+370) 64 53 12 06, www.distilerija.lt/. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. JA LOVE BAR We love Love Bar! Look for the pink heart above stairs leading into a basement and discover the coolest, friendliest cocktail bar in the city, a neon-lit cavern by the market. Try every one of the clever but unpretentious drinks and snacks on the menu, from the citrusy honeyed vodka to the elderflower concoctions to the smoky-aubergine baba ganoush to the brandy-infused chicken liver pâté. Open to everyone, regardless of orientation, you’re guaranteed a warm welcome.QPylimo 59, tel. (+370) 61 42 02 60. Open 20:00 - 12:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAPARAZZI This super-social nighttime mainstay mixes always reliable cocktails in a fun atmosphere and the girls and boys sipping Cuba libres and multiple versions of mojito are crowded on stools and huddled around a rectangular bar, their faces bathed in a warm red glow. Monochrome blow-ups of stars of the silver screen watch as friends and strangers buy each other drinks and others shift together on the dance floor beside the DJ. Hosting popular quiz nights on weekdays, Paparazzi is at its best on teeming weekends from midnight until 03:00, which is when we often drop by for an electricblue adios mother f*cker kick. Currently closed, to reopen at the end of September with a new food and drinks menu. QI‑8, Totorių 1, tel. (+370) 52 12 01 35, www.paparazzi. lt. PJAW

52 Vilnius In Your Pocket

VARIOKAS STEAMPUNK BAR Making the 19th century fashionable again, that era of dangerous inventions, bizarre experiments, odd discoveries and weird creatures, this ‘steampunk’ bar is a fabulous brick cellar designed with industrial cogs and brass pipes, a few steps from Gedimino Avenue. The mad lab tests extend to the cocktails, including a lesser-known electric blue version of Long Island iced tea and Old Vic, with gin, champagne and balsamic vinegar. Our ‘blood and sand’ was deliciously, darkly potent. The music could be a touch more adventurous, but in Vilnius that would run the risk of scaring off the fun-loving crowds, who book tables ahead for the weekend DJs.QA. Jakšto 9, tel. (+370) 68 35 15 61, www.variokas.lt. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 04:00. PA WALL STREET AVENUE Loud, louche, garish and smarmy, its patrons dressed like they’ve just cashed in their shares, guys with that slicked-back look, dolls with overpainted faces, big hair that refuses to move, this cocktail bar is high on style, low on substance. Brain-pounding techno vibrates the blackand-neon interior while a colossal golden bull sneers as hookahs and sickly-sweet Pornstar cocktails are sucked on.QVilniaus 28.

CRAFT BEER BROMAS Discover some truly memorable craft beers and a range of very special meats, from matured deer loin to dried beef to elk and other beasts. Even get a chunk of flesh to take away. Sometimes the young folks here make salmon soup or venison stew, which perfectly suit the brews poured by the friendly bartenders. It’s small, so be ready to eat and drink standing up. But that meat is really worth it.QSavičiaus 11-26, tel. (+370) 67 71 60 37. Open 17:00 - 24:00. JB NISHA CRAFT CAPITAL Featuring small and unusual breweries from around the world, dimly lit Nisha is a treasure trove of craft beers that novices and enthusiasts alike will be amazed by. More

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Nightlife

than 20 draught beers alternate regularly and are scruffily chalked up on the board, while about 100 more are in bottles. For us, a glass of Viciously Viscous barley wine warmed the cockles on a chilly evening. There’s no kitchen, but plates of cheeses or game meat give you something to chew on.QL. Stuokos - Gucevičiaus 9, tel. (+370) 61 13 00 30. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Mon 16:00 - 22:00, Sat 14:00 23:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. PROHIBICIJA A tiny space stacked out with craft beers mainly from Denmark, like the bitter blonde Campale or the peaty, smoky Polish-style Grätze, and a hundred others, Prohibition also sells the finest limited-edition Lithuanian craft beers by Sakiškių near Vilnius and Kaunas’ Genys. Gluten-free beers are available too. If space is tight, carry your choice to a table in one of the neighbouring bars. QArklių 6, tel. (+370) 68 78 62 74, www.prohibicija. lt/. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 22:00. Closed Mon. JAB

LGBT Attitudes towards minority groups in Lithuania are slowly changing for the better, with a handful of brave individuals spearheading campaigns for equal rights armed with both courage and a firm understanding of Lithuanian law. One such person is the gay Lithuanian film director Romas Zabarauskas, who in 2012 along facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

with a number of local LGBT activists launched a campaign encouraging restaurants and bars in Vilnius to display an LGBT Friendly sticker on their doors. An overwhelming success, the project gradually intensified with the publication of a map of Vilnius marked with the venues that had signed up to the sticker campaign. The first copy was given away in a symbolic gesture of solidarity to Stuart Milk, nephew of the iconic gay rights activist and politician Harvey Milk (1930-1978), who in a rather neat closing of the circle was of Lithuanian origin. SOHO At the only venue in Vilnius for the LGBT community, one space is for drinking and chatting, another for danceorientated activities, both then subdivided further and decorated in a somewhat eclectic yet rather fetching style. If you want to grab someone’s attention beyond the twinkling of an eye, send a text message for it to be displayed on a large screen. Tends to be closed in summer. QG‑10, Švitrigailos 7, tel. (+370) 69 93 95 67, www. sohoclub.lt. Open 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance fee - €5. PAW

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Nightlife

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

LIVE MUSIC & EVENTS JAZZ CELLAR 11 Vilnius’ longstanding love affair with jazz lives on in this pulsating cellar bar close to the Gates of Dawn. Operating outside the summer season, mostly at weekends, the warm atmosphere raises the temperature on even the chilliest of nights.QAušros vartų 11, tel. (+370) 68 41 13 82, www. vilniusjazzclub.lt/. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Thu 08:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PJAE KABLYS On intense Friday nights fuelled by tequila-flavoured Desperados lager or local craft beers like Laužo liepsna (Fire Flame) and Pievų rūko (Meadow Fog), wild locals and hostel guests throw themselves around to drum’n’bass. Minimal Mondays, meanwhile, are reserved for calming ambient recovery. Gazpacho, seafood pasta and paella are hashed together at these and other times.QKauno 5, tel. (+370) 66 52 14 16, www.mankablys.lt. Open 23:00 06:00, Mon 21:00 - 02:00, Thu 22:00 - 02:00. Closed Tue, Wed, Sun. ABW

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ALINĖ LEIČIAI The next logical step in the evolution of the specialist Lithuanian beer bar, Leičiai also doubles as a restaurant serving classic traditional local food. As well as a space for drinking the range of superb Lithuanian beers on offer from small microbreweries around the country, this pleasant watering hole also features two dining halls, one with an open kitchen and a small beer garden out the back.QI‑10, Stiklių 4, tel. (+370) 52 60 90 87. Open 11:00 - 24:00. PJA6BSW CRAFT & DRAFT Brewing six beers on the premises, including an excellent honey beer and an IPA, this relaxed cellar microbrewery has a friendly aura and bouncy jazzy music, its seating memorably in sight of the cathedral in summer. Nibble on the marinated pigs’ ears, try the pork ribs or halloumi burger if you can, or go for one of 80 whiskies from Sweden, India or Taiwan to chase the beer down.QGedimino 5, tel. (+370) 60 57 75 55. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. PJA BW

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CALIFORNIA TAPAS & WINE Growing from strength to strength, it’s a breath of fresh air to see a restaurant in Lithuania improve over time rather than the usual opposite. Aiming to introduce tapas to the local population among other things, this Spanishthemed restaurant/bar on two floors provides a bit of everything, from a first-floor café complete with open kitchen serving dishes like Basque fish soup and grilled meat to a labyrinth of rooms downstairs for long evenings vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

Relaxing outdoors with a glass of wine at Notre Vie

of eating and drinking. Service is friendly, the décor has some extraordinary touches downstairs and the wine list is impressive.QJ‑10, Subačiaus 2 (Imperial Hotel & Restaurant), tel. (+370) 65 26 55 51, www.california.lt. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. PJABSW DECANTUS This weeny but ideally located wine bar has a dark and cosy interior and a tiny table or three on the cobbles of Pilies Street in warmer weather. The wines are Italian, Spanish and a smattering of Portuguese, but there’s not a lot in the way of unusual vintages. It’s just great for glugging a bottle in good company, with late-afternoon happy hour involving discounts on the bottle not the glass.QPilies 6, tel. (+370) 67 26 04 61. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. JA NOTRE VIE The oldest wine bar in Vilnius was taken over by new management last October. It runs only selected boutique and awarded wines, which are exclusively displayed in this cosy bar – meaning you won’t find anything you’d normally find down the supermarket. Italian wines are now the focus, with Barolo, Vermentino, Primitivo, Negroamaro, Amarone and many other varieties, as well as multi-awardwinning French wines from the Languedoc region.QI‑9, Stiklių 10, tel. (+370) 61 42 45 21/(+370) 65 68 70 99. Open 12:00 - 03:00. PJA6EBSW facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

SOMM Rather than worry about pairing wine with your food, why not choose the plonk first and match your food with that? Taking its name from the humble sommelier, several of whom have selected over 350 wines – the biggest range in Lithuania, apparently – Somm is a tapas-style bar where we partook of Irish beef tartare aged for 48 days with a couple of intense glasses of Austria’s Pöckl Zweigelt. Divertingly, the sommeliers have written their own personal mix-andmatch recommendations in the menu.QPylimo 21, tel. (+370) 68 46 46 22, www.somm.lt/. Open 15:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.

CLASSIC VILNIUS ŠMC KAVINĖ Vilnius’ Contemporary Arts Centre offers a bit of something to just about everybody. There are events most evenings (as well as often during the day) from exhibitions to concerts and DJ sessions. There is plenty of good, cheap food if you are hungry, and the number of beers served here tops almost anywhere else in Vilnius. To be honest it would be rather easy to move in and take up residence. A top place.QI‑10, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 52 19 55 89. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €5. PJA6EBW August - November 2017

Nightlife STRIP CLUBS DOLLS This club across the river from the Old Town spotlights some outstanding dancers. Call for a free limousine ride to the club from the Old Town.QH‑6, Konstitucijos 18, tel. (+370) 52 72 84 82, www. oldtown.lt/en. Open 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Entrance €20. PA KALIGULA After a hard day building bridges, killing people on a whim and trying to get your horse ordained as a priest, swish into this little nook for some upper-class depravity. Small, simple and stylish, it’s just the right size for private parties, so we hear.QI‑10, Pylimo 38, tel. (+370) 52 63 63 24, www.kaligulaclub.lt. Open 21:00 - 06:00. Entrance €30. PJA OLD TOWN STRIP CLUB Expect a thumping, throbbing experience on and around the plump sofas of this red-lit club at an Old Town address. There’s more theatre to these shows, which tend to attract a bigger crowd than similar venues around the city.QI‑10, Rūdninkų 14, tel. (+370) 52 12 13 49, www.oldtown.lt. Open 21:00 06:00. Closed Sun. Entrance €20. PJA

56 Vilnius In Your Pocket

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A grand day out at Verkiai

Verkiai Palace | Guillaume Speurt, CC 2.0

One of the most enchanting and memorable outings from Vilnius is also one of the closest – the beautiful classical palace and grounds of Verkiai. There are sweeping hilltop views and deep connections with history and legends – and ghost stories too. Drive, cycle or order a taxi to get there, taking the scenic route along the River Neris. Less than 10 kilometres north of the city centre, the landscape is of steep, thickly forested hillsides above the winding River Neris. On a hilltop overlooking the valley stand two surviving parts of a palace designed in three separate sections by the celebrated architect Laurynas Gucevičius towards the end of the 18th century, as a summer retreat for the Bishop of Vilnius. Some 400 years previously, on his conversion to Christianity, Grand Duke Jogaila had granted the site to the new diocese of Vilnius. Presumably the idea was to stamp out the fact that the area was closely bonded with paganism. At the furthest edge of the hilltop, a sacred eternal fire was kept aflame by a pagan priest and alluring local virgins. Today a stone fireplace marks the spot. The legend continues that, perhaps inevitably, the pagan priest fell in love with one of the virgins. She became pregnant and gave birth to a son. One day, the grand duke visited with his entourage. Fearful that their sacrilegious affair would be discovered, the couple quickly wrapped the baby and hid him in a cradle at the top of a tree. The baby soon started crying and the grand duke ordered the bundle down. The priest was asked for an explanation. The priest claimed that the boy had been a miraculous gift from the gods, an heir to take over as a future pagan priest. The grand duke approved and the boy was named Lizdeika, from the word lizdas, or ‘nest’. He did indeed grow up to become a priest – it was he who gave the interpretation of Grand Duke Gediminas’ dream about a howling iron wolf, which led to the founding of Vilnius. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

This tale could also explain the similarity between the name Verkiai and the word verkti, ‘to cry’. Sadly, Verkiai Palace was left a smouldering wreck by Napoleon’s soldiers in 1812, just a couple of decades after it was built, compelling the new owners, the Wittgenstein family, to pull down the central section. The local Institute of Botany inhabits one of the surviving wings, but appointments can be made (Tel. 210 2333) to have a poke around inside, together with a guide. Intriguingly, some of the decoration from the time of the Wittgensteins is still visible including scratched wallpaper, woodwork and ceilings. As with all old palaces and castles, there are stories of ghosts and haunted rooms. One of them concerns the daughter of an owner of the palace. Distraught at being forbidden to marry the man she loved, she hung herself from a chandelier in one of the smaller rooms. Her lonely spirit is said to wander the corridors. Something untraceable passes through locked rooms, makes strange noises like steps and sliding furniture, and opens and closes doors, scaring people who work there, especially at night. Some of the rooms have been used as a hotel, and the ghostly goings on intensified after 2001, when a young woman mysteriously shot herself from a legally stored hunting rifle. The death was never properly explained and people say that her restless ghost is doomed to forever wander the building. Not far from the palace buildings is a viewpoint across the luscious valley. By the stone fireplace are steps leading down to a watermill built in the 19th century. The mill stopped working in 1975 but now houses a fairly decent restaurant. A path alongside a stream leads back up the hill to the palace gates. At the rear of the palace is another restaurant, which functions as an atmospheric location for private events. Whatever you choose to do at Verkiai, and whatever the season, it’s bound to be a memorable few hours. Just don’t go after dark. August - November 2017

Sightseeing

The Lithuanian capital’s first period of growth took place immediately south of today’s Cathedral Square, eventually becoming the toothsome jumble of Baroque, Gothic, Neoclassical and Renaissance architecture now known as Old Town. Although most people flock to the city to visit this undeniable gem, there are plenty of other things to see when in town, from the very Lithuanian eccentricities encountered over the imaginary border in the self-styled Republic of Užupis to the few remaining relics of a once thriving Jewish community to the occasional Sovietera masterpiece. Fill the buildings with a reasonably interesting collection of museums and galleries, put some decent parks in the spaces in-between and you’ll find it hard to not find a reason to visit.

ESSENTIAL VILNIUS GATES OF DAWN (AUŠROS VARTAI) Completed in 1522, the Gates of Dawn (or Sharp Gate (Ostra Brama) as it’s known to the Poles) is the only remaining gate from the city’s original defensive walls. As was common at the time, an image of the Virgin Mary was placed above all gates to protect the city, and the story of the Gates of Dawn starts from this simple historic fact. The current image, known as The Blessed Virgin Mary Mother of Mercy, was painted on eight pieces of oak in around 1630 by an unknown artist, was embellished with gold and silver about 40 years after that, was housed inside a purpose-built chapel above the gate in 1706 and is believed to have magical healing powers. Interestingly, the site is revered by both the Catholic and Orthodox faiths and is such an important part of the city’s cultural heritage that it remained open 58 Vilnius In Your Pocket

throughout the Soviet occupation. Watch as people walking underneath say a silent prayer. The chapel is open to the public and is accessed via a small door on the left as you’re walking up the hill.QJ‑11, Aušros Vartų 14, tel. (+370) 52 12 35 13. Open 06:00 - 19:00, Mass 09:00 (Lithuanian), 10:00 (Polish), Sun 09:30 (Lithuanian). J GEDIMINAS CASTLE & MUSEUM (GEDIMINO PILIS IR MUZIEJUS) Dating from the 13th century, the castle was rebuilt by Grand Duke Vytautas after a major fire in 1419. By the early 1600s it was being used as a prison for disobedient members of the ruling classes, but during the chaotic 165561 Russian occupation the towers and defensive walls were almost completely destroyed, with partial restoration work beginning as late as 1930, by the then-occupying Poles. Inside the tower itself find models of the structure as it appeared in the 14th and 18th centuries plus other bits and pieces on the building’s history and knights in dented armour. The views from the hill and from the top of the castle are the ideal start to a tour of the city. The walk up is a bit of a struggle for many, but there are benches thoughtfully provided along the way.QJ‑8, Castle Hill, tel. (+370) 52 61 74 53, www.lnm.lt/en/gediminas-castletower. Open 10:00 - 21:00. October 1 - November 31 Open 10:00 - 18:00. €5/2. J

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Sightseeing VILNIUS CATHEDRAL & THE GRAND DUKES’ PALACE CATHEDRAL-BASILICA OF ST. STANISLAUS & ST. LADISLAUS (VILNIAUS ŠV. STANISLOVO IR ŠV. VLADISLOVO ARKIKATEDRA BAZILIKA) The most important Catholic building in Lithuania, Vilnius Cathedral as it’s more commonly known was first built in 1251 by newly converted Grand Duke Mindaugas on the site of a pagan temple. Returned to pagan use after Mindaugas’ death in 1263, it was given back to the Catholic Church on the country’s official conversion to Christianity in 1387. The building that now stands in its place has little to do with the original structure. The current building dates to around 1419, with countless modifications and additions made after that. The Neo-Classical form is largely down to Lithuania’s first true architect, Laurynas Stuoka Gucevičius (Pol. Wawrzyniec Gucewicz, 1753-98), who was also responsible for a number of other notable buildings in the city including the Town Hall. The rather plain nave betrays eleven chapels, among them the must-see High Baroque Chapel of St. Casimir (1458-84), named after Lithuania’s patron saint. Built in 1636 to house his remains, the chapel is one of the country’s national treasures. On the roof of the cathedral, the three statues of Sts. Stanislaus, Helena and Casimir, supposedly representing Poland, Russia and Lithuania, are 1997 copies of the 18th-century originals which were destroyed by the Soviets in 1950. Spending several years as an art gallery and even a car repair workshop, the cathedral was returned to the Catholic Church on October 22, 1988 during the eventful Sąjūdis Congress and re-consecrated on February 5, 1989. The 57-metre free-standing bell-tower, now a popular meeting place, was originally part of one of the gates in the city’s defensive wall and has been added to several times over

the centuries, giving it its peculiar shape. It received six new bells in 2002, baptised by the cardinal in a special ceremony. QJ‑8, Katedros 1, tel. (+370) 52 61 11 27, www.katedra. lt. Open 07:30 - 19:00, Mass 08:00, 17:30, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:15, 12:30, 17:30, 18:30 (Latin). J PALACE OF THE GRAND DUKES OF LITHUANIA (LIETUVOS DIDŽIOSIOS KUNIGAIKŠTYSTĖS VALDOVŲ RŪMAI) The Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania is at the centre of the historical and cultural heritage of the early Lithuanian state, the Grand Duchy of Lithuania (13th-18th c.), and its rulers. The original Palace was brought to the ground 200 years ago, but its reconstruction became one of the most important accents of Lithuania’s Millennium Programme in 2009. The reconstructed palace is a symbol of Lithuania’s longstanding statehood, reflecting the twists and turns of the state’s and the nation’s destiny in history, as well as its European ties. Visitors will discover the most important historical facts about Lithuania and how common rulers reigning in Lithuania, Poland, Sweden and other countries resided here and received envoys from Turkey, Persia, Spain, Italy and many European countries. The expositions present the surviving authentic ruins and unique archaeological finds as well as rich Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque art collections, which reflect the artistic connections between the dukes and Europe’s most powerful dynasties and Lithuanian cultural heritage in the European context.QJ‑8, Katedros 4, tel. (+370) 52 62 00 07, www.valdovurumai.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3/1.5. Guide €22. JA

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August - November 2017

Sightseeing

The stunning Baroque Church of Sts. Peter & Paul

GENOCIDE VICTIMS’ MUSEUM (GENOCIDO AUKŲ MUZIEJUS) The sign outside reads that between 1940 and 1991 this building housed the representative institutions of the NKVD and KGB, and, accordingly, the exhibits inside relate almost exclusively to the period of oppression and the so-called genocide of the Lithuanian people by the Communist regime. Understandably a must-see part of any trip to Vilnius for people wishing to understand this often bleak and violent period in the country’s history, what the sign fails to point out is that between 1941 and 1944 the building was controlled by the Gestapo, whose role in the systematic murder of the vast majority of the city’s Jewish population with the willing participation of many ethnic Lithuanians is, somewhat bizarrely, almost completely overlooked, although the recent addition of a room dedicated to just this issue is a welcome addition. Controversy aside, as a testament to the suffering endured by the ethnic Lithuanians, especially under the lunacy of Stalin, the place is essential for any visitor to Vilnius. QG‑8, Aukų 2a, tel. (+370) 52 49 62 64/(+370) 52 49 81 56, www.genocid.lt/muziejus. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €4/1. J ST. ANNE’S CHURCH (ŠV. ONOS BAŽNYČIA) Unquestionably one of the city’s most famous landmarks, and quite rightly so, St. Anne’s has a history that starts with the alleged construction in the 14th century of a wooden house of worship on this spot in honour of Ona, wife of Vytautas the Great. The first historical records of a church here date from 1394, but the current Gothic masterpiece is believed to have been built between 1495 and 1500 to a design by the Bohemian architect Benedikt Rejt (1453-1534), who is most famous for designing parts of Prague Castle. Unlike other historical churches in Vilnius, St. Anne’s has managed to escape the ravages of time almost unscathed and is arguably 60 Vilnius In Your Pocket

the least changed of them all. Composed of 33 different styles of brick assembled into a delicate and intricate whole, the effect is simply quite stunning. It’s been said the façade incorporates the Pillars of Gediminas, one of the country’s earliest symbols, although this is hardly clear from looking at it. The interior is refreshingly free of ostentation. The separate bell tower has nothing to do with the original design, being built only in 1873. Visiting in 1812, Napoleon famously noted that he wanted to take the building back to Paris on the palm of his hand.QJ‑9, Maironio 8, www.onosbaznycia.lt. Open 10:30 - 18:30, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Mass Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:30. Sun 09:00, 11:00. J STS. PETER & PAULS’ CHURCH (ŠV. APAŠTALŲ PETRO IR POVILO BAŽNYČIA) Believed to have been built on the site of a site of worship to Milda, the pagan goddess of love, this breathtaking late Baroque masterpiece was commissioned to celebrate victory over the Russians in 1668 by Michael Casimir Pac, the Grand Hetman of the Lithuanian armies, who never lived to see its completion. Financed by two of Pac’s cousins and completed under several master craftsmen including the Polish Jan Zaor and Italian Gianbattista Frediani, the rather plain façade betrays an interior by Giovanni Pietro Perti and Giovanni Maria Galli that’s quite simply out of this world. Containing over 2,000 astonishing stucco mouldings representing miscellaneous religious and mythological scenes, of equal magnificence are the 20th-century altar containing a wooden figure of Christ, Antakalnio Jėzus (Jesus of Antakalnis) which features real human hair brought from Rome in 1700 and the Latvian chandelier made of brass and glass beads and dating from 1905.QL‑6, Antakalnio 1, tel. (+370) 52 34 02 29, www.petropovilobaznycia.lt. Open 06:30 - 18:45, Mass 07:00, 08:30, 17:00 (Polish), 18:00. Sun 07:30, 08:30 (Polish), 10:00, 11:30, 13:00 (Polish), 18:00. vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing VILNIUS UNIVERSITY (VILNIAUS UNIVERSITETAS) Established in 1579 and one of the oldest universities in Eastern Europe, the splendid ensemble that makes up Vilnius University’s main campus buildings embraces just about every major architectural style of the last 400 years. Originally belonging to the Catholic Church, the university became a secular seat of learning in 1773 and has remained so ever since. Closed for much of the 19th and the first 18 years of the 20th century, famous students who studied here include the Polish Romantic poets Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki, Lithuanian author and historian Simonas Daukantas and Lithuania-born Polish Nobel Prize-winning author Czesław Miłosz. As well as housing the oldest library in the country, Vilnius University is also famed for its lovely courtyards, of which depending on your definition of what a courtyard is, there are either 12 or 13. The university itself claims 13, although by rights the correct number should be 12 as one of them only has three walls, the fourth having been destroyed when the neighbouring Presidential Palace was built. The ensemble was fully restored in 1979 and is well worth investigating. A map can be found at Universiteto 7 explaining where everything is.QJ‑9; I‑9, Universiteto 7, tel. (+370) 52 19 30 29, www.muziejus.vu.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun, November 1 - November 30 Open 09:30 - 17:30. Admission €1.50/0.50. J

CHURCHES BERNARDINE CHURCH & MONASTERY (BERNARDINŲ BAŽNYČIA IR VIENUOLYNAS) Once forming part of the city’s original defensive walls and constructed on the site of an earlier wooden church dating from the middle of the 15th century at the behest of an order of Bernadine monks, the current vast Gothic church with Baroque and Renaissance additions dates from the early part of the 16th century onwards. As the old photographs on display show, the church interior was truly breathtaking before the Soviet authorities took control of the building, handing it over to the Vilnius Art Institute who among other things allegedly incorporated parts of the interior into the works of art the academy was producing. Returned to the monks soon after independence, a mammoth restoration project continues to this day. Current highlights include 14 magnificent rococo altars and the oldest known crucifix in the country, dating from the 15th century. The neighbouring monastery is the oldest part of the ensemble. Once famed for its extensive library and independent-minded monks, the monastery was closed soon after the failed Uprising of 1863 and turned into a barracks for tsarist troops before falling into the hands of the city’s Art Academy at the end of WWI. The building now houses the Vilnius Art Academy.QJ‑9, Maironio 10, tel. (+370) 61 60 11 59, www.parapija.bernardinai.lt. Open Mon, Tue 07:30 - 18:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 08:30 - 18:00, Mass Mon - Fri 07:30, Wed, Thu, Fri 18:00, Sat 09:00, 18:00, Sun 09:00 (English), 10:30, 13:00, 17:00. J facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

CHURCH OF THE ASCENSION OF THE LORD (VILNIAUS MISIONIERIŲ BAŽNYČIA) Its two towers dominating the landscape from a hilltop above Maironio Street and Užupis, this 18th-century Baroque church has a far more striking exterior than interior. In any case you’ll be lucky to find it open, and the surrounding former monastery buildings belong to a hospital. Initially built for missionaries, it was closed during large parts of the Tsarist and Soviet periods and was used variously as a war hospital, an institute for young ladies of noble families and an insane asylum. QSubačiaus 26. CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS (ŠV. KRYŽIAUS BAŽNYČIA) On the other side of the Presidential Palace from the university, this charming little church’s history dates back to 1543 and the building of a chapel on the site to commemorate the martyrdom of a group of 14th-century Franciscan friars. Slowly added to over the centuries, including the attached Bonifratri Monastery, it is now more-or-less late Baroque in appearance with a few rococo flourishes and is the only church in Vilnius converted from an ordinary house rather than being purpose-built. The interior is worth having a peep at if the doors aren’t bolted, the most outstanding feature being the painting Holy Virgin Mother of Snow on the high altar, an image of which appears on a fresco above the entrance. The small square in which the church is located also features a stylised, Sovietera bust of Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius (1753-1798), Lithuania’s first serious architect who was responsible for the contemporary look of the cathedral, the town hall and other buildings in the city.QI‑9, S. Daukanto 1, tel. (+370) 67 24 66 48. J CHURCH OF THE HOLY MOTHER OF GOD (SKAISČIAUSIOS DIEVO MOTINOS CERKVĖ) Originally dating back to the middle of the 14th century, this slightly unusual-looking church which also functions as the city’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral and that as such is often referred to as the Cathedral of the Theotokos in Vilnius owes much of its partial Neo-Byzantine design to reconstruction work completed in 1522. In 1808, soon after the start of tsarist rule in Vilnius, the building fell into the hands of Vilnius University who divided it into two floors, constructing a library, classrooms and dissection rooms for anatomy classes inside. In 1842 soldiers moved in as the church acted as a barracks before it took on several other uses before General Muravyov and his brother had it restored to its current Georgian appearance and used as a house of worship towards the end of the 1860s.QJ‑9, Maironio 14, tel. (+370) 52 15 37 47. Open 10:00 - 17:00. J

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Sightseeing

Get the lift up to the top of Sts. Johns’ Church for a stunning panorama

CHURCH OF THE HOLY SPIRIT (ŠVENTOSIOS DVASIOS BAŽNYČIA) Like many of the city’s churches, the Dominican Church of the Holy Spirit was built on the site of a former wooden house of worship that met a fiery fate. The current building’s appearance started taking shape towards the end of the 14th century. In 1501 it was given to an order of Dominican monks who built a monastery nearby. Its present Baroque appearance dates to the mid-18th century when the church was rebuilt after serious fire damage. Inside is a wealth of Baroque and rococo splendour, well worth further investigation. Interestingly, the building, which functions as Vilnius’ Polish Catholic community’s main church, remained opened throughout the entire Soviet occupation. Gaining rare access to the church’s crypts promises a ghoulish adventure amidst some 2,000 corpses in varying states of repair. Dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, the bodies are supposedly victims of the plague.QI‑9, Dominikonų 8, tel. (+370) 52 62 95 95. Open 15:00 - 19:00, Mass only in Polish 15:00, 18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 18:00. J EVANGELICAL LUTHERAN CHURCH (EVANGELIKŲ LIUTERONŲ BAŽNYČIA) Built in 1555, two years after the first German-speaking Lutheran community is said to have arrived in Vilnius, the crowning glory of this small gothic and baroque church is the gorgeous rococo altar, dating from 1741, the work of Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, c.1700-67), a Lithuanian of German extraction and the city’s foremost architect at the time. Serving as 62 Vilnius In Your Pocket

a workshop and a basketball court in the Soviet Union, it was returned to its congregation in 1991 and has since become the predominant house of worship for the capital’s multi-denomination, English-speaking Christians. In addition to the weekly English-language worship at 09:30 every Sunday, the International Church of Vilnius runs midweek Bible studies, courses to explore the Christian faith and various social events.QI‑10, Vokiečių 20, tel. (+370) 52 12 21 25, www.velb.lt/ en. Service Tue, Thu 08:00, Wed 18:00, Fri 17:00, Sun 09:30 (English, Ecumenical Protestant), 11:00 (Lithuanian). J FRANCISCAN CHURCH (PRANCIŠKONŲ BAŽNYČIA) The Franciscan Church, or the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Franciscan Abbey in Vilnius to give it its full title, dates from the middle of the 14th century. Currently a beguiling building site of crumbling Gothic and Baroque magnificence, work continues both inside and out to restore it to its original beauty. Amidst the hastily assembled wooden seating, pile of bricks on the sanctuary and scaffolding towers, work is slowly moving forwards. At the time of our last visit, the Chapel of the Virgin Mary, complete with a statue of the lady reputed to have miracle-working powers, was nearing completion, giving some indication of how things will eventually look.QI‑10, Trakų 9-1, tel. (+370) 52 61 42 42, www.pranciskonai.lt. Mass 17:30 (Lithuanian), 19:00 (Polish), Sun 10:00 (Lithuanian), 11:30 (Polish), 13:00 (Polish). J vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing HOLY TRINITY CHURCH & BASILIAN GATE (ŠV. TREJYBĖS CERKVĖ IR BAZILIJONŲ VARTAI) Consisting of a church, monastery, belfry and beautiful rococo gate, with the exception of the latter much of it in a state of hideous disrepair, the Holy Trinity Church originally dates from 1514 and features elements of Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Byzantine architecture. Built at the behest of the Belarusian national hero Konstantin Ivanovich Ostrozhsky (Konstantinas Ostrogiškis, ca. 14601530), the church, which was extensively altered after a serious fire in the middle of the 18th century, belongs to the Uniates or Eastern Catholic Church, a peculiar faith which fuses together many Orthodox beliefs whilst recognising the Pope as God’s representative on Earth. The church is a complete mess inside, almost completely empty with the exception of some wonderful, barely visible frescos both inside and out. There’s also a small chapel on the right as you enter. Renovation work is slow. The elaborate, 17.9m gate was built in 1761 to a design by Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767).QJ‑11, Aušros Vartų 7b, tel. (+370) 52 12 25 78. J ORTHODOX CHURCH OF ST. PARASKEVA (PYATNICKAYA) Dating back to the middle of the 14th century and itself built on the site of what many believe to be a former pagan place of worship, the charming albeit somewhat diminutive Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva can not only claim to have been the first church in Vilnius to be made of stone but is also the alleged location of the baptism in 1705 of none other than Hannibal, the African prince and great grandfather of Alexander Pushkin who was brought to Russia by Peter the Great from the part of Africa that’s now Eritrea. Originally in the hands of the Uniate Church, the building, which had been rebuilt on several occasions due to fire, fell into disrepair around the time of the Third Partition of 1795, laying abandoned for seven decades before being almost completely rebuilt in 1864 only to suffer major fire damage during WWII. Reconstructed in 1949, the building closed in 1961, opening a year later as a museum of painting before being returned to the Orthodox Church on May 31, 1991. Unusually for a Russian Orthodox Church in Lithuania, services are conducted in Lithuanian once a week on a Sunday.QJ‑9, Didžioji 2. J ORTHODOX CHURCH OF THE APPARITION OF THE HOLY MOTHER OF GOD (ZNAMENSKAYA) Built in 1903 and topped with several beautiful NeoByzantine cupolas, this is one of the best-loved Russian Orthodox churches in Vilnius. Among the numerous icons hanging inside are potted plants that make the place feel alive. Next to the icons are prayers for each saint, but as everything in the church is written in Old Slavonic you’ll need a translator to work them out. The church was fully restored, inside and out, in 2009.QE‑7, Vytauto 21, tel. (+370) 52 75 13 75. Open 09:00 16:30. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

OLD TOWN WALKING TOUR Begin at Vilnius Cathedral (J-8) and take a peek inside at the Baroque St Casimir’s Chapel. Climb the cathedral bell-tower for views, learn a bit of history at the Palace of the Grand Dukes and the National Museum, then jump on the funicular up to Gediminas Castle for more fine views. Stroll back down and head south to J-9 and Gothic St Anne’s. Cross the River Vilnia into Užupis to see the Angel monument, the witty ‘constitution’ and arty shops, galleries and cafés before heading west back across the river past the white Russian Orthodox Church of the Holy Mother of God and up Latako to find charmingly tiny St Paraskeva, visited in 1705 by tsar Peter the Great who served here as godfather to Abram Gannibal, Afro-Russian nobleman and great-grandfather of Alexander Pushkin. Proceed southwards up Didžioji, popping into Vilnius Picture Gallery if you’re intrigued by art history, then passing stunning Baroque structures like St Casimir’s, the Basilian Gate, the Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit and St Theresa’s with its gorgeous interior, to find the Gates of Dawn (J11) and its miraculous image of the Virgin Mary. Pass under the gate and turn right to walk down Bazilijonų to get a taste of the real Lithuania at Halės Market (I-11) before heading north again. On a building at the corner of Visų Šventųjų and Rūdininkų is a map showing the terror-stricken ‘ghetto’ where the city’s large Jewish population was herded between 1941 and 1943. On Vokiečių, a leafy a leafy avenue lined with shops, cafés and restaurants, is a modern building housing the Contemporary Art Centre (I-10). Down at the bottom of the street, hang a right to discover the magical interior of the Church of the Holy Spirit and, turning left onto Universiteto, the Alumnatas Courtyard. Further down Universiteto is the entrance to Vilnius University, through which you can explore its courtyards, frescoes in the Littera bookshop and, up the steps, St John’s and its separate bell-tower with sweeping Old Town views. That concludes your Old Town tour. Now relax with a well-deserved brew at one of the restaurants or summer terraces on or around Pilies Street (J-9), or just do some shopping. August - November 2017

Sightseeing ORTHODOX CHURCH OF THE HOLY SPIRIT (STAČIATIKIŲ ŠV. DVASIOS CERKVĖ) Dating originally from the mid-16th century but predominantly now the combined work of the city’s most renowned and prolific religious architect Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767) who spent four years on the rococo design between 1749 and 1753 and later 19th-century Neo-Byzantine modifications, the entire ensemble is comprised of the church, a freestanding bell tower, monastery and convent although it’s the church interior that’s of most interest, being positively bursting with frescos, icons, a magnificent cupola and rich blue and green colours. A particular quirk of the church’s crypt saw it being chosen in the middle of the 19th century as the final resting place of the supposedly incorruptible Saints Jonas, Eustachius, and Antanas, couriers of Algirdas whose remains are displayed dressed in white at Christmas, in black during Lent, in red on all other occasions with the exception of June 26 when they’re put on display entirely naked.QJ‑11, Aušros Vartų 10. Service 07:00, 17:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 07:00, 10:00. J ST. CASIMIR’S CHURCH (ŠV. KAZIMIERO BAŽNYČIA) St. Casimir’s in many ways represents a microcosm of Lithuania itself. Founded by the Jesuits and dedicated to Lithuania’s patron saint Prince Casimir Jagiellon (14581484), construction on the mighty building began in 1604 and was completed in 1635. Burnt to the ground just 20 years later when the Russians invaded in 1655, conflagration visited twice again within the next century in 1709 and 1749 before the architect, mathematician and astronomer Tomas Žebrauskas (Pol. Thomas Zubrówka, 1714-1758) restored it to more or less the form it’s seen in today. Over the centuries the church fell into the hands of the Augustinians, Napoleon’s Grande Armée, the Russian Orthodox Church (who significantly altered its appearance), the Lutherans (who used it as the garrison church for the occupying German Army during WWI) and others, including the Soviets who turned the whole place into a museum of atheism no less. Returned to the Catholic Church in 1988, the building was consecrated in 1991 and has since undergone a massive renovation project,

Church of St. Nicholas

64 Vilnius In Your Pocket

restoring its predominantly Baroque style with Gothic and Renaissance touches. Of particular interest inside are three late Baroque altars and a recently discovered 17th-century crypt containing dark bas-reliefs featuring miscellaneous religious motifs.QJ‑10, Didžioji 34, tel. (+370) 52 12 17 15, www.kazimiero.lt. Open 16:30 - 18:30, Sun 08:00 14:30, Mass 17:30, Sun 09:00 (Russian), 10:30, 12:00. J ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH (ŠV. MIKALOJAUS BAŽNYČIA) Pre-dating the country’s conversion to Christianity by some seven decades, Vilnius’ oldest surviving church was built in 1320 by German merchant immigrants. Mentioned for the first time in 1387, the impressive, classic red brick Gothic exterior remains pretty much as it looked the day it was finished with the interior having received numerous changes and additions over the centuries. During the disputed annexation of the Vilnius region during the two World Wars, this was the only church in the city open to the city’s small Lithuanian-speaking Catholic community.QI‑10, Šv. Mikalojaus 4, tel. (+370) 52 62 30 69, www.mikalojus.lt. Mass 08:00, 18:00, Sat 09:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 14:00. J ST. NICOLAS’ CHURCH (ŠV. NIKOLAJAUS CERKVĖ) The forerunner to this church supposedly dates back to the second decade of the 16th century, belonging from 1609 until 1827 to the Uniate Church. At some time during the 18th century the original church burnt down and was replaced soon after in the Late Baroque style. At the height of the tensions between the Russians and several other ethnic communities in the city, the church was confiscated on the orders of General Muravyov and converted into a Russian Orthodox church with several Neo-Byzantine additions made in 1865. With its predominantly Catholic tower and typically Orthodox dome the church is one of the most peculiar looking houses of worship in the capital.QJ‑10, Didžioji 12. J STS. JOHNS’ CHURCH (ŠV. JONŲ BAŽNYČIA) Built at the same time as Lithuania’s conversion to Christianity in 1387, albeit with numerous radical alterations through the centuries, the vast and imposing Sts. Johns’ Church was given to the Jesuit Church in 1571 by Zygmunt II August (Žygimantas Augustas, 1520-1572). On the dissolution of the Jesuit Order in 1773, the church was handed over to the adjoining University. The present building, which contains elements of all of the major architectural styles associated with Old Town boasts an extraordinary and predominantly Gothic interior whose crowning glory is its organ of which parts date back to an organ that came from the Belarusian city of Polotsk in 1831. The organ, the largest in country and that received a complete overhaul in stages between 1974 and 2000, is used extensively in classical concerts the church is now famous for. Note that the church is part of the Vilnius University complex and can’t be visited seperately: you will need a ticket from the university itself.QJ‑9, Šv. Jono 12, tel. (+370) 52 12 17 15, www.jonai.lt. Mass Tue, Wed, Thu 18:00, Sun 11:00, 13:00. J vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing ST. THERESA’S CHURCH (ŠV. TERESĖS BAŽNYČIA) Probably Vilnius’ best surviving example of Early Baroque religious architecture, work on the first incarnation of St. Theresa’s was completed in around 1650. Built at the behest and expense of the then Deputy Chancellor Steponas Pacas (Pol. Stefan Pac), the straightforward idea behind its construction was to create the most beautiful church in the city, a fact that can clearly be seen by its elaborate façade, predominantly the work of the Swiss-born Constantino Tencalla (1610-1647) who also worked on St. George’s Chapel inside the city’s Cathedral. The spectacular and predominantly rococo interior, much of it added in the middle of the 18th century, is a riot of golds and pinks.QJ‑11, Aušros Vartų 14, tel. (+370) 52 12 35 13. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 19:00, Mass 17:00, 18:00. Sun 09:00 (Polish), 11:00, 13:00 (Polish), 17:00 (Polish), 18:00. J

MONUMENTS FRANK ZAPPA Freak out! Deceased rock and roll pervert, part-time classical composer, father of Moon Unit and all round creative genius Frank Vincent Zappa (1940-93) has had his head immortalised in brass and stuck on a steel pole in a lacklustre courtyard just west of the Old Town. Commissioned by a student and created by sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas (1926-2011), who once churned out Lenins and other comrades for the bureaucrats in Moscow, the bust is the first monument to the man to be erected anywhere in the world. As Zappa once said, “Without deviation, progress is impossible.” If you’re wondering what the link is between Vilnius and Frank Zappa, don’t. There isn’t one.QH‑9, K. Kalinausko 1. J MINDAUGAS Taking pride of place outside the National Museum since July 6, 2003, the 750th anniversary of the crowning of the country’s one and only king in 1253, Mindaugas (Pol. Mendog, 1200-1263), who’s generally considered to be the founder of the Lithuanian state, was a bit of a character to say the least. Clumsy in his personal affairs and switching from paganism to Catholicism and back to paganism to suit his needs, Mindaugas was eventually assassinated by his nephew and served as little more than a footnote in Lithuanian history until he was resurrected by the national revival movement of the late 19th century. R. Midvikis’ granite likeness of the man sees him sitting on his sostas (throne), from which the Lithuanian language gets its word for capital, sostinė, literally ‘the place where the throne is’. QJ‑8, Arsenalo 1. J facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

UŽUPIS ANGEL The tall pillar in the heart of Vilnius’ breakaway republic Užupis (where every dog has the right to be a dog) gave birth to a long-awaited angel on April 1, 2002, the official independence day of the wacky district. After a long and sometimes tedious unveiling ceremony the covers were finally lifted, and in a burst of billowing balloons the surprisingly beautiful figure of an angel was revealed, playing a trumpet and generally being rather awesome. The work of local sculptor R. Vilčiauskas, find it at the junction of Užupio and Malūnų. QK‑9, Užupio. J UŽUPIS CONSTITUTION The writing is on the wall. Literally. But don’t take it literally. All 41 of the witty ‘rights’ of the constitution of the self-proclaimed artists’ republic of Užupis have been hammered into mirror-like plates of metal, allowing you to take a selfie with your favourite lines. Thoughtfully, it’s in English too, though one or two are lost in translation. Everyone has the right to love and take care of the cat. Everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance. Everyone has the right to have no rights.QK‑9, Paupio Street.

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Sightseeing

The Gothic ensemble of St. Anne’s Church and the Bernadine Church

MUSEUMS ADOMAS MICKEVIČIUS MUSEUM The great Romantic poet Adam Mickiewicz wrote his masterpiece Pan Tadeusz with its opening lines, “Oh Lithuania, my country, thou art like good health; I never knew till now how precious, till I lost thee”. Both Poland and Lithuania claim him as their national poet. A student in Tsarist-occupied Vilnius from 1815, he lived at this apartment, wrote and published his first poems, met his first love but was from too low a social class to marry her, and helped found a secret organisation called the Philomaths whose aim was to promote the idea of restoring Polish independence. He was arrested in 1823, imprisoned in the Basilian monastery (beyond the Basilian Gate on Aušros Vartų) and then banished forever from the city.QJ‑9, Bernardinų 11, tel. (+370) 52 79 18 79, www.mb.vu.lt. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission €1.50/0.70. AMBER MUSEUM-GALLERY (GINTARO MUZIEJUS-GALERIJA) Although not officially a museum this two-storey ode to amber offers explanations in English, German and Lithuanian about the formation, colour, harvesting and processing of Baltic Gold. Follow amber’s history through a series of ancient rooms in the cellar. Amber polishing demonstrations available upon request. The nice people here also run the nearby AV17 gallery at Aušros Vartų 17, which is the only place of its type showing both contemporary art and jewellery.QJ‑9, Šv. Mykolo 8, tel. (+370) 52 62 30 92, www.ambergallery.lt. Open 10:00 19:00, Also at Šv. Mykolo 12. Admission free. J ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM (ARCHEOLOGIJOS MUZIEJUS) Rather awkward to find hidden away inside a courtyard opposite the funicular station, this often overlooked 66 Vilnius In Your Pocket

collection of clothing, documents and other articles tracing the history and culture of Lithuania from the 13th century to the present is equally interesting for being housed inside a splendid historical building that once made up part of the city’s defensive wall. Blind you with its ingenuity it won’t, but for a pleasant 30 minutes that takes in one or two especially lovely exhibits, locating the hole in the wall to find the entrance is definitely worth the bother.QJ‑8, Arsenalo 3a, tel. (+370) 52 62 94 26, www.lnm.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €2/1. J BASTION OF THE VILNIUS DEFENSIVE WALL (VILNIAUS GYNYBINĖS SIENOS BASTĖJOS EKSPOZICIJA) Recently patched up and polished, perhaps a little too tastefully, the Bastion is one of the last surviving parts of the city’s old defences against the Russians and the Swedes, dating back to the early 16th century. A museum now sits inside the thick, dank walls and though there’s not a lot to see, much can be imagined of the history of the structure. It fell into ruin during the 19th century and was used as a pitiful orphanage and later as a city dump and public toilet. Vegetables were stored here under Soviet rule before it was restored in 1966 and opened as a museum in 1987. An information point beside the Bastion reveals how one of the characteristic gates of the city once stood close by. Another part of the wall still stretches up little-used Šv. Dvasios Street on the other side of Subačiaus.QBokšto 20, tel. (+370) 52 61 21 49, www.lnm.lt/en. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2. J JONAS MEKAS VISUAL ARTS CENTRE (JONO MEKO VIZUALIŲJŲ MENŲ CENTRAS) Legendary filmmaker Jonas Mekas, famous for documenting the New York arts scene of the 1960s and 1970s and friend of Lennon, Ono and Warhol, gave his vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

LITHUANIAN RAILWAY MUSEUM (LIETUVOS GELEŽINKELIŲ MUZIEJUS) Recently moving to much larger premises inside the train station itself, the Lithuanian Railway Museum may not be to everybody’s taste, but is still worth a visit if you’re in the area, or for that matter if you’ve got a while to wait for your train. Made up of three main exhibition halls the museum charts the history of the railways in Lithuania, looks at some of the technical aspects of trains and the tracks they run on, is bursting with old railway-related paraphernalia and also has a couple of models that children can play with. Find it to the right of the main entrance to the station.QI‑12, Geležinkelio 16 (Train Station), tel. (+370) 52 69 37 41, www.litrail.lt. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission €1.50/0.80. J LITHUANIAN THEATRE, MUSIC & CINEMA MUSEUM (LIETUVOS TEATRO, MUZIKOS IR KINO MUZIEJUS) Originating in 1926 as a theatre museum and slowly collecting departments and exhibits over the decades, this mildly interesting cultural diversion inside an 18th-century palace and theatre charts the Lithuanian history of the three arts. Among several badly ventilated rooms full of harmoniums, 19th-century theatre posters and recordings of famous Lithuanian opera singers are one or two gems including several displays given over to the life of the actress Unė Babickaitė (aka. Une Baye or Bye, 1897-1961), who fund a modicum of cinematic success in the United States in the 1920s. The museum also features temporary exhibitions of painting and photography. If you can prevent the old ladies who guard the place from pestering you every couple of minutes you might just enjoy this place. Entrance is around the back of the building.QI‑9, Vilniaus 41, tel. (+370) 52 62 24 06/(+370) 52 31 27 24, www. ltmkm.lt. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission €2/1. Family ticket €3. J facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

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LITHUANIAN CULINARY HISTORY MUSEUM (LIETUVOS KULINARINIO PAVELDO MUZIEJUS) Located in the Old Town, the Museum of Lithuanian Culinary Heritage is the first museum of its kind in the country – and in neighbouring countries – that seeks to promote culinary culture and reveal its development through the ages. Besides displays of art, furniture, valuable plates, tureens, sauce boats, silver-plated dishes and 300-year-old cookbooks, it also hosts exhibitions by Lithuanian artists.QBokšto 9, tel. (+370) 52 19 48 49. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun, Restaurant Open 11:00 - 19:00 (+370) 69 85 48 05. €3/1.5. J

name to this avant-garde and contemporary arts space in his native Lithuania. Located in the suitably bohemian district of Užupis, some absurdist Fluxus materials may be on show but expect mainly nascent local artists and little by Mekas himself. Check mekas.lt for what’s on.QK‑9, Malūnų 8, www.mekas.lt. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J

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MONEY MUSEUM (PINIGŲ MUZIEJUS) Featuring five small rooms on two floors celebrating the history of world and Lithuanian money, despite the inclusion of lots of fancy interactive bits and bobs and plenty of information in English, this relatively new museum’s best attribute is the fact that it’s free to enter. If money’s your hobby then there’s no doubt it’s worth a visit. If it isn’t, then it probably isn’t.QI‑8, Totorių 2/8, tel. (+370) 52 68 03 34/(+370) 52 68 03 37, www.pinigumuziejus. lt/en. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun, November 1 - November 31 Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. J

VILNIUS CITY CARD Available from any Tourist Information Centre in the city and online via www.vilnius-tourism.lt, there are two different types of card valid for either 24 hours (€20) or 72 hours (€30), both of which come with public transport, with a further 24-hour version without public transport for just €15. The Vilnius City Card entitles holders to all sorts of deals including free museum entry and guided tours as well as discounts on a range of things including concerts, meals in restaurants and hotel bookings. Check the aforementioned website for more detailed information. August - November 2017

Sightseeing EXPLORE LITHUANIA Besides alluring Trakai (see separate section) and Lithuania’s other buzzing cities like coastal Klaipėda and lively Kaunas, both of which we publish guides about once a year, the country is crammed with castles and manors, ancient forests, pretty towns and attractive landscapes, diverting at any time of the year. Here are some tips. SPA RESORTS As fun-filled as it is hard to pronounce, Druskininkai is famed for its mineral-packed muds and waters and also boasts a waterpark, massive indoor ski slope, Soviet sculpture park and countless spa hotels. Far quieter is Birštonas, a relaxed riverside town with spas and oldfashioned sanatoriums. ŠIAULIAI AND THE HILL OF CROSSES Ever since the local pagan Samogitians beat the Catholic Sword Brothers at the Battle of the Sun in 1236, Šiauliai has been at the heart of Lithuania. Today it has quirky museums to cats, bicycles and cameras, but the real draw is the nearby Hill of Crosses, a mystifying miracle of faith defying decades of oppression, with thousands of crosses ‘growing’ eerily on a hillock. CURONIAN SPIT An extraordinary natural coastal phenomenon, the spit is a narrow sliver of sand and pines with fishing villages, cycle lanes, a Hill of Witches, amber washing up on the beaches, and dunes towering like cliffs above the water.

MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS AND DESIGN (TAIKOMOSIOS DAILĖS MUZIEJUS) In the 16th century, this was the far northeastern corner of the city’s original defensive walls and held one of the region’s largest armouries. Though much of the Old Arsenal was destroyed during World War II, segments of the earlier structure including an original gate can still be seen inside. This worthy inclusion into the city’s national treasures was rebuilt in 1986. Today it displays Lithuanian and foreign applied art, hosts concerts and, since 2010, has offered a revealing look at authentic historical costumes from the fascinating collection of the fashion historian Alexander Vassiliev.QJ‑8, Arsenalo 3a, tel. (+370) 52 62 80 80, www.ldm.lt/en. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission €1.80/0.90. J NATIONAL MUSEUM (LIETUVOS NACIONALINIS MUZIEJUS) Lithuania’s oldest museum, parts of the collection inside this intriguing history lesson date back to the 13th century. On permanent display are religious and secular items highlighting the cultural and ethnographic life of the nation, including recreations of traditional homesteads, clothing, paintings and much more. Also to be found are some of the things unearthed in the mass grave of Napoleonic soldiers nearby in 2001. The museum also puts on temporary shows, of which some are truly outstanding. A vital key for unlocking the secrets of the Lithuanian people.QJ‑8, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 52 62 94 26, www. lnm.lt/en. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €2/1. J TOY MUSEUM (ŽAISLŲ MUZIEJUS) Inspired by similar initiatives in Europe and around the world, this recently opened interactive museum is a private venture aimed at children of all ages from four to 90. Tracing the history of toys and games from around the 12th century onwards, the museum features exhibits including a whirligig dating from the 14th century that was found during excavation work nearby, teddy bears galore and some simple wooden vehicles made in Lithuania during the Soviet period. Indeed, most of the original items on display date from the Soviet period and as such offer a fascinating insight into the former everyday lives of children behind the Iron Curtain. Many of the things on display are there to be touched, played with and generally mauled, making the place a really recommended place for

NATIONAL PARKS Lithuania’s protected national parks include lake-strewn Aukštaitija, Žemaitija with its myths, legends and Soviet underground nuclear missile silo, and Dzūkija’s thick pine forests, thatched farmsteads and undisturbed, swampy Čepkeliai Marsh. A step back in time at the Lithuanian Railway Museum

68 Vilnius In Your Pocket

vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

visitors to the city with children in tow who are already fed up with churches and the like. Not the easiest place to find in the world, keep an eye out for the sign on the wall along with a lot of other signs. Entrance is through the door just to the right.QJ‑8, Šiltadaržio 2, tel. (+370) 60 40 04 49, www.zaislumuziejus.lt. Open Tue, Wed 12:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission €4/3. J VYTAUTAS KASIULIS ART MUSEUM (VYTAUTO KASIULIO DAILĖS MUZIEJUS) Opened to coincide with Lithuania’s 2013 Presidency of the Council of the European Union and housed inside a fine Neoclassical building dating from the early 20th century, this combined museum and art gallery contains a permanent collection of colourful, Chagall-esque works by Vytautas Kasiulis (1918-95) who escaped Lithuania in 1944 for Austria and then Germany and who spent the rest of his life in Paris. The museum also has space for temporary shows and plays host to a range of music concerts.QH‑7, A. Goštauto 1, tel. (+370) 52 61 67 64, www.ldm.lt/en. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €1.80/0.90. J WAR MACHINERY AND TRANSPORT MUSEUM On grounds that have belonged to whatever military has been in charge since the 18th century is an impressive outdoor display of fighting vehicles, a few kilometres east of the Old Town. These include Soviet-era relics from the Cold War such as T-55 and T-72 tanks, armoured cars, motorcycles and a boat.QOlandų 21a, tel. (+370) 52 61 96 06/(+370) 52 69 76 98, fax (+370) 52 69 76 97, www.muziejai.lt. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Entrance for free. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

PARKS & GARDENS BERNARDINE GARDEN (SEREIKIŠKIŲ PARK) (BERNARDINŲ SODAS (SEREIKIŠKIŲ PARKAS)) Nestled inside a loop of the Vilnia river just east of the Old Town, this popular spot for walks was once the site of the city’s late 18th-century botanical gardens. Redesigned and renamed the Youth Park after WWII, it has recently seen the benefit of investment and is now looking better than ever. It boasts rather avant-garde fountains, rock gardens and some of the best childrens’ playgrounds in the city. Well worth a look.QJ‑8, B. Radvilaitės 6b. Open 07:00 - 22:00. J

PLACES OF INTEREST ALUMNATAS COURTYARD Built in the style of the Italian Renaissance back in the 17th century, this is one of the Old Town’s most atmospheric courtyards, usually with a few outdoor tables from a café in summer burbling with conversation and clinking glasses. Originally a seminary, the building later became part of the university and is now mostly office space. At the back, a passage leads to a viewpoint of the rear end of the Presidential Palace.QUniversiteto 4. CENTRE OF EUROPE (EUROPOS CENTRAS) Lithuania has the proud and noble distinction along with at least six other places of being smack in the middle of Europe. The Lithuanian claim stems from a 1989 ruling by Jean-George Affholder of France’s Institut Géographique National who announced that the site lies at Bernotai, close to the village of Purnuškės some 26km north of Vilnius. The exact point, which can be reached by driving out of the city on the A14 in the direction of Molėtai and August - November 2017

Sightseeing EUROPOS PARKAS EUROPOS PARKAS (OPEN AIR MUSEUM OF THE CENTRE OF EUROPE) Founded in 1991 by Lithuanian sculptor Gintaras Karosas, this wildly varied and recommended countryside excursion brings together some big names in local and international sculpture including Karosas himself, Polish artist Magdalena Abakanowicz as well as Dennis Oppenheim and the late Sol Le-Witt from the United States to create a vision that in the words of the park’s founder ‘gives artistic significance to the geographical centre of the European continent’. Featuring around 100 works by artists from countries as diverse as Armenia, Japan and Venezuela, the park is spread out over 55 hectares of rolling hills and woodland and includes static and interactive art as well as Info Tree, Karosas’ crumbling shrine to propaganda made up of some 3,000 televisions with a prostrate Lenin at its centre. With the addition of a restaurant and gift shop, the park offers a fun few hours away from the city for people of all ages. To get there by car, take Kalvarijų Street north to the Santariškės roundabout, turn right towards the Green Lakes (Žalieji Ežerai) and follow the signs. Bus N°66 leaves from the Žalgirio stop on Kalvarijų and goes all the way.QJoneikiškės, 10km north of Vilnius, tel. (+370) 52 37 70 77, www.europosparkas.lt. Open daily 10:00 - sunset. Admission €9/7/5.

looking for the signs, has been commemorated with the construction of an expensive monument, a fact that may go a long way to explaining why a recent recalculation placing the centre of Europe six kilometres closer to Vilnius is being more or less ignored by the cash-strapped nation. Ultimately one should remember that Europe is a concept and not actually a continent at all, making the whole affair slightly ridiculous in the first place.QGirija vlg, 30km from Vilnius. HILL OF THREE CROSSES (TRIJŲ KRYŽIŲ KALNAS) Legend has it that long ago seven Franciscan monks were crucified here. Originally erected in the 17th century, Stalin had the crosses removed and buried, and only in 1989 were they rebuilt according to the original plans. The crosses are a great symbol of both Lithuanian mourning and hope. An excellent view of Old Town is also to be found at this spot. QK‑8. J LITERATŲ STREET (LITERATŲ GATVĖ) Inspired by Aidas Marčėnas’s poem Literatų Gatvė about a wistful young man drinking and smoking with his friends on the street of the same name, the highly recommended permanent outdoor gallery on Literatų is dedicated to writers past and present who’ve all left their mark on the city. Comprised of small, mixed-media prints, drawings and paintings celebrating everyone from Jonas Mekas to Czesław Miłosz to Romain Gary, the gallery, all the work of local artists, grew from humble beginnings in 2008 and now features over 100 superb pieces.QJ‑9, Literatų. J M. K. ČIURLIONIS’ HOUSE (M. K. ČIURLIONIO NAMAI) Although more famous for his painting, Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis (1875-1911) has quite a reputation as a composer. This is the house in which the great man lived for a short time in a small room that can be visited. The rest of the building, which during Čiurlionis’ time was both a family house and a shop, features reproductions of his paintings and a small concert space which stages musical productions: check the website to see when the next performance is.QJ‑10, Savičiaus 11, tel. (+370) 64 65 35 03/(+370) 52 62 24 51, www.mkcnamai.lt. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J

‘Space of Unknown Growth’ by Magdalena Abakanowicz

70 Vilnius In Your Pocket

PLANETARIUM (PLANETARIUMAS) A classic old school 1960s sci-fi adventure, Vilnius’ dilapidated but charming Planetarium is available for prearranged tours of 15 people or more, or take your chance at the times listed below. Featuring a galaxy of projectors aimed at the inside of the building’s dome, shows include the fabulously named Venture into Space and Stars and Music. Find the entrance on Šnipiškių, just south of Konstitucijos.QH‑6, Konstitucijos 12a, tel. (+370) 61 57 70 54, www.planetarium.lt. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission €3.50/2.50/1.50. J vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing PRESIDENTIAL PALACE (PREZIDENTŪRA) The official residence of the President of Lithuania, the palace started life in the 14th century as a much smaller structure built at the behest of the city’s first Bishop, Andrzej Jastrzębiec (d.1398). Gaining its late Classical appearance much later, the building remained the home of the cream of the city’s Catholic clergy until the 1795 Partition when it became the residence of Vilnius’ tsarist governors. Many illustrious figures have spent a night in the building over the centuries, among them Tsar Alexander I, Napoleon Bonaparte and local boy, some-time dictator, military giant and Polish national hero Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935) to name but a few. After independence in 1990 the building served several purposes until assuming its current role in 1997. The presidential flag can be seen flying over the building when the president is in residence or in the city. Changing of the Guard takes place on Sundays at 12:00. From spring to the start of October, at 12:0018:00, it is possible to enter the courtyard without being part of an excursion.QI‑9, S. Daukanto 3, tel. (+370) 70 66 40 73, www.lrp.lt. Free tours of the Presidential Palace take place on Fridays from 16:45, Sundays and Sundays 09:00 - 14:30. Tours are limited to 25 people. For more information, see www.lrp.lt or call tel. (+370) 706 640 73. J STEBUKLAS About halfway between the cathedral and the bell tower is the stebuklas, or miracle. Essentially a piece of stone believed to perform wonders and with the word stebuklas written on it, the site marks the spot where one end of the human chain of some two million protesting Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians stretching the 650km or so to Tallinn was formed on August 23, 1989. A symbol of freedom and hope, stand on the miracle, turn a complete clockwise circle and make a wish.QI‑8, Arkikatedros Square. J

TOWN HALL (ROTUŠĖ) First mentioned in 1503, the Town Hall most likely dates from the 15th century, while the present Classical structure was built at the end of the 18th century. In 1810 the governor general ordered that the Town Hall housed a theatre, which gave performances on and off until 1924. Since then its interior has been a museum. Until the reestablishment of independence it served as the Lithuanian Art Museum. Today it’s the Artists’ Palace where you can see gallery art.QI‑10, Didžioji 31, tel. (+370) 52 61 80 07, www. vilniausrotuse.lt. Exhibitions held at the Town Hall are open to visitors, but note that during some events the building can be closed to the public. Check the Town Hall’s website vilniausrotuse.lt for up-to-the-minute information regarding opening times. J VILNIUS CATHEDRAL BELL TOWER (VILNIAUS KATEDROS VARPINĖ) Closed for more than a decade, the Bell Tower of Vilnius Cathedral has finally reopened to visitors. One of the city’s defining monuments and a popular meeting place, the tower originally formed part of the city’s 13th century defensive wall, becoming a belfry in the 16th century. Fiftyseven metres tall, it was remodelled and given its current look in the 19th century. Besides offering fine views from the top, it hosts an exhibition of bells and also documents the building’s reconstruction.QI‑8, Katedros 2, tel. (+370) 60 01 20 80, www.bpmuziejus.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun, October 1 - November 30 Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Sun. €4.50/2.50. JA

TELEVISION TOWER (TELEVIZIJOS BOKŠTAS) The tallest structure in the country, the 326m Television Tower was built from reinforced concrete and steel between 1974 and 1980 to a design by Lithuanian architects. On 13 January 1991, as the disintegration of the USSR reached a frenzied pace and Moscow attempted to retake control of the Lithuanian media, Soviet tanks surrounded the tower in an assault that killed 14 unarmed civilians. The tower has since become a potent symbol. Around it are a few monuments and photographs of those who lost their lives and whose names the nearby streets are now called in honour of. Inside at ground level is the small Sausio 13-osios ekspozicija (January 13th Exhibition) commemorating the brutal events including a copy of the original Soviet military attack plan, weapons used to beat protesters and some affecting photographs. The exhibition is free, but the fast ride in the lift to visit the combined 270m restaurant and viewing station isn’t. The ticket office also sells several Television Tower souvenirs. A taxi from Old Town costs somewhere in the region of €6. Alternatively, take trolleybus Nº 16 from the train station to the Televizijos Bokštas stop. Nºs 1 and 3 and bus Nº 2G also stop nearby.QSausio 13-osios 10, tel. (+370) 52 52 53 33, www.tvbokstas.lt. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Admission €7-9/6. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

August - November 2017

Liepāja, Latvia Straddling a narrow strip of land between the sea and a lake, Latvia’s third largest city began as a humble fishing village, eventually becoming a major centre of trade under the leadership of Duke Jacob (James) Kettler (1610 - 1681), but only regained its importance as a thriving port in the 19th century as a part of the Russian empire. Today, Liepāja is known as a progressive city with beautiful architecture, an internationally recognised Blue Flag beach and raging nightlife that just won’t quit.

GETTING THERE & AROUND Liepāja is located on Latvia’s Baltic Sea coast roughly 100km north of Klaipėda and roughly 300km northwest of Kaunas. If you’re travelling by car from Kaunas take the A1 all the way to Klaipėda and then head north along the coast on the A13 until you cross the border when the road turns into the A11. This leads directly to Liepāja. You can also take a bus to Klaipėda or Palanga and then switch buses to get to Liepāja. Although the city is easily walkable, you can explore outlying areas by tram. Buy a €0.80 ticket from the driver or at newsstands for €0.70. You can also purchase a 24-hour ticket for €2.50 or a ticket for 10 rides for €6.60. You must time stamp the ticket in the tram.

ACCOMMODATION FONTAINE HOTEL In all our years of reviewing hotels across Europe, this is one of the hippest we’ve ever seen. The reception area is a curiosity shop in the corner of this lovingly restored wooden building that is over a century old. Rooms are a mix of rustic hardwood floors, oriental carpets, army footlockers for tables and footstools, assorted antiques and modern conveniences like cable TV with DVD players and modern private bathrooms. You can also stay in the Elvis suite decorated with pictures of the king and other garish design elements. The Valhalla Wine & Coffee bar is also at your disposal, but remember to ask for a room with a balcony and to book well in advance.QJūras 24, tel. (+371) 63 42 09 56, www.fontaine.lv. 19 rooms (11 doubles €45, 3 suites €65, 3 family rooms €65, 2 budget rooms €25) Breakfast: €6. A6LXW

FOOD & DRINK DARBNĪCA The Workshop is one of the hippest places to hang out in Liepāja and judging by how crowded it is most days, it seems that most locals are also in the know. Walk past the bar covered in worn and weathered wooden boards and grab a seat wherever you can to enjoy a proper meal, some of the best desserts in western Latvia or a great craft brew ‘imported’ from other parts of the nation. Board games are also available, but most of the youngsters who hang out here seem content to browse the net with their mobile phones.QLielā 8, tel. (+371) 26 81 13 13, www. darbnicacafe.lv. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. TJABW 72 Vilnius In Your Pocket

SIGHTSEEING KAROSTA PRISON (KAROSTAS CIETUMS) This ominous brick building has been witness to ghastly crimes over the past century. Originally built as an infirmary in 1900, it was used as a military prison by a long succession of regimes including the Soviets, Nazis and most recently, the Latvians. Guides are also happy to tell you tales of the ghosts that haunt the prison. Visitors can take a simple tour with a guide or audio guide, participate in a reality show (in English or German), spend the night in a cell or do the ultimate and become a prisoner for the night (see website for details). For participatory events you must call ahead and reserve a time..QInvalīdu 4, tel. (+371) 26 36 94 70, www. karostascietums.lv. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: €3 4.50. From October - April open Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. NORTHERN FORTS (ZIEMEĻU FORTI) A long system of concrete fortifications was once part of the Naval Port’s defences, but was intentionally destroyed after a friendship and cooperation agreement was signed with Germany in 1908. It’s not known if the tsar later pondered the irony of blowing up such massive defences on the eve of WWI, but of course it’s always easy to make jokes with hindsight. Today, you can cautiously walk through the ruins and watch buildings, pillboxes and concrete staircases slowly recede into the sea. Similar forts are visible in the south of Liepāja where Klaipēdas and Ganību streets meet. QNorth of the breakwater, west of Atmodas bulvāris. GREAT AMBER CONCERT HALL The amber jewel in Liepāja’s cultural crown opened in the autumn of 2015 and its unconventional design is already making waves in this hip city on the Baltic Sea. The roundish concert hall, which is meant to resemble a piece of the prehistoric, semi-precious sap that washes up on the beach at Liepāja, is a welcome addition to city’s skyline which was previously dominated by a combination of medieval spires and 20th-century industrial smoke stacks. You can take the lift up to the 7th floor for incredible views or stop by for lunch at its café. Exhibitions are also held here. Follow its website or Facebook page for upcoming events.QRadio 8, tel. (+371) 63 42 45 55, www.greatamber.lv.

TOURIST INFORMATION LIEPĀJA REGION TOURISM INFORMATION OFFICE The friendly staff can arrange accommodation and provide a wide selection of tours, maps, guides and other services including bicycle rental. You can also leave your luggage with them during the day for small fee.QRožu laukums 5/6, tel. (+371) 63 48 08 08, www.liepaja.travel. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00 (April - September); 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun (October - March). vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Jewish Vilnius

Monument to Zemach Shabad (1864-1935; sculptor Romualdas Kvintas), put up on Mėsinių Street in May 2007 to pay tribute to the famous Jewish doctor’s special care of children | © www.vilnius-tourism.lt

Lithuanian Jews can be traced back seven centuries. The classic Lithuanian Jew (Litvak) is known in folklore for a love of education, no-nonsense straight-talk and a sharp wit. Jews were settled from an early date in Vilna as the capital is known in Jewish culture (more precisely Vilne in Yiddish). The first historical sources that mention the Jews go back 3,300 years to ancient Egypt. Ever since then they have been the victims of – and have fought against – countless persecutions. They were even blamed for the spread of the plague and leprosy in Europe, prompting thousands to be murdered. In 1492, they were expelled from Spain. Some Jewish families were attracted to starting a new life in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. In 1323, Grand Duke Gediminas issued an invitation for craftsmen and merchants to settle there, stressing the tolerance of local people, and in 1388 under Vytautas the Great, the Duchy’s Jews gained their first charter. The charter was confirmed in 1507, by which time more than 6,000 Jews were residing in the Grand Duchy. Jews were also involved in changing and lending money and the local nobility often asked them to maintain their financial affairs. By the mid-16th century, around 30,000 Jews called the Grand Duchy their home. Many more sought sanctuary in Lithuania during the bloody Northern Wars and Great Plague of 170811. Jewish communities tended to exist fairly independently, with each local community (kahal), made up of rabbis and elders responsible for collecting taxes and maintaining public buildings. A council, or Va’ad, kept close relations with the monarch and made sure the correct taxes were given to the state, while steadfastly opposing any anti-Jewish legislation. Jews in other countries could not boast of such autonomy. 74 Vilnius In Your Pocket

The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth had become home to the world’s biggest Jewish population. In 1800, at least a quarter of a million Jews lived in Lithuania, but by then the country had been absorbed into the Russian tsarist empire. Hassidism, which strengthened traditional principals of faith while urging people to enjoy life, was spread in Lithuania by learned rabbis. But Vilna was also the world capital for traditional Talmudic learning, eventually becoming known as the Jerusalem of Lithuania, or Jerusalem of the North. Towering over the many great Jewish figures the city has produced is unquestionably the Vilna Gaon (‘Wiseman’) Elijah son of Shlomo Zalman (1720-97), who criticised Hassidism. Towns large and small would be connected by wholesale and retail trade networks, while Jews established themselves as successful tailors, grocers, furriers, clothiers, innkeepers, doctors and herbalists. Academies for young Jewish men, yeshivot, in Kaunas, Vilnius, Telšiai and Panevėžys were internationally renowned. Life for Jews in the tsarist empire was restrictive, however. Throughout the 19th century, a Pale of Settlement was put in place in the western borderlands where Jews were allowed to settle. Jews were not permitted to move from there into the inner regions of Russia. Jewish boys were forced to conscript into the Tsar’s army for a term of 25 years, many of them forced to be baptised. By the outbreak of World War I most Jews were impoverished, with irregular incomes. Jews were instructed to move out of villages, as they were blamed for alcoholism and dishonesty among local people. Although Jews made up little over 14% of the population of Lithuania, towns like Ukmergė became more than 50% Jewish. Small towns known as shtetl thrived with dozens of wooden houses, a wooden synagogue and countless artisans. vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Jewish Vilnius At the same time, however, Litvaks were known for their dedication to science as well as religion, their high intellect and individualism. Though the Haskalah tradition which promoted Jewish assimilation with other cultures was slow to take hold in Lithuania, communities gradually opened up more. Zionism, which looked to the creation of a new state in Palestine, also gained in popularity. In Vilnius, Kaunas and other cities and towns, traditional rabbis clashed with progressive cultural activists. At the same time, anti-Semitism increased among Christians, spurred on by rumour and propaganda. As the 20th century approached, Jews become renowned activists, writers, journalists and businessmen. Famous Litvaks included the brilliant violinist Yasha Heifetz, the influential artists Chaim Soutine, Marc Chagall and Jacques Lipchitz and such expressive native-Yiddish writers as Abraham Sutzkever, Chaim Grade and Moshe Kulbak. Between the wars, Vilna – at that time under Polish rule and known as Wilno – was a bustling international centre of modern Yiddish culture and scholarship. Jews made up more than 36% of the city’s population. Yiddish schools, newspapers and many other institutions flourished. Vilna had more than a hundred synagogues and prayer houses. Famous libraries such as the Strashun Library had more than 35,000 rare volumes of literature by the mid-1930s. Scholars gathered in Berlin in 1925 founded YIVO, the Institute for Jewish Research, to be located not in Prague or Warsaw but in Vilna, with branches in Warsaw and New York. Honorary members included Sigmund Freud and Albert Einstein. It was between the wars that Vilna truly became known as the Jerusalem of Lithuania – the capital of Yiddish culture and learning. But this thriving life was cut short. During the Holocaust around 95% of Lithuania’s Jews – 200,000 women, children and men – were murdered, the highest percentage in Europe, destroying centuries of Jewish existence in Lithuania. Many were killed by local collaborators, including the vast majority of the 80,000 Jewish residents who lived in Vilna before the Nazi invasion of June 1941. Sites of mass murder can be found throughout the country. Today, Lithuania’s small Jewish community of three to four thousand makes bold efforts to maintain its extraordinary and valuable heritage.

JEWISH LIFE CHABAD LUBAVITCH CENTRE (CHABAD LUBAVITCH ŽYDŲ RELIGINĖ BENDRUOMENĖ) This combined community centre and synagogue is engaged in numerous religious projects aimed at enlightening those who need enlightening and restoring the spirit and sensibilities of religious Jewish life. Led by the Boston-born Rabbi Sholom Ber Krinsky, the only truly resident rabbi in Lithuania over the last decade and a half, Chabad is especially known for its festive Jewish holiday celebrations, at which everybody is welcome. It also supplies visitors with kosher food and needed religious items and services.QJ‑10, Bokšto 19, tel. (+370) 52 16 60 73. J facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

CHORAL SYNAGOGUE (CHORALINĖ SINAGOGA) Built in a Moorish style in 1903, this is the sole survivor out of more than 100 pre-war Jewish prayer houses in Vilnius. The term Choral Synagogue relates to the inclusion of a choir section, a feature considered by some to be a revolutionary form of modernisation and assimilation at the time it was built.QI‑11, Pylimo 39. J JEWISH COMMUNITY OF LITHUANIA (LIETUVOS ŽYDŲ BENDRUOMENĖ) This is the country’s primary address for its living Jewish people, providing a wide range of cultural, communal and social services from kindergarten through to senior level. Led by the redoubtable Dr. Shimon Alperovich (Simonas Alperavičius), legendary for standing up for Jewish rights however and whenever the community comes under challenge. Along with the two functioning houses of worship, this is where you can meet the genuine Jewish locals. The building also houses a youth club, Jewish Student Union, Union of Former Ghetto and Concentration Camp Inmates and the Union of WWII Jewish Veterans.QH‑9, Pylimo 4, tel. (+370) 52 61 30 03, www.lzb.lt. J

MUSEUMS HOLOCAUST EXPOSITION (HOLOKAUSTO EKSPOZICIJA) The green wooden house reached via a tiny lane up from Pamėnkalnio Street is the location of the Holocaust Exhibition of the Vilna Gaon State Jewish Museum, to give its full name. There you will find in-depth information about the once flourishing culture and history of Lithuania’s Jews, also known as Litvaks in Yiddish. The tragedy of the Holocaust, in which so much of this community was lost, is of course also covered in grim detail. The museum is not afraid to talk about Lithuanian collaboration in those dark times and leaves no aspect of the topic untouched. One unusual section is the Malina, a ghetto hideout video and audio installation in which real diary entries can be experienced. Guided tours available in English, Lithuanian, German and Russian.QH‑8, Pamėnkalnio 12, tel. (+370) 52 62 07 30, www.jmuseum.lt. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission €3/1.50. J

JEWISH TOURS Professional guides lead tours in English and Hebrew through the Baltics and Belarus. Yulik Gurevitch Tel. (+370) 699 907 09 Ilya Lempertas Tel. (+370) 687 132 85 Raya Shapiro Tel. (+370) 600 207 59 Justina Petrauskaitė Meškauskienė Tel. (+370) 699 540 64 Daniel Gurevich Tel. (+370) 655 174 91 August - November 2017

Jewish Vilnius PANERIAI MEMORIAL MUSEUM (PANERIŲ MEMORIALINIS MUZIEJUS) Between July 1941 and July 1944, approximately 70,000 people of whom over half were Jewish were murdered at this site by the Nazi Security Police (Gestapo), the SS security service and the Vilniaus ypatingasis burys (Vilnius Special Squad), in which the majority were Lithuanians. Find several monuments and the remains of pits where the victims were killed and burned. A tiny museum inside the territory displays copies of archival photographs – not recommended for children – and documents, explained in an irregular mix of languages. Paneriai (Ponar to the Jews, Ponary to the Poles, Paneriai to the Lithuanians) is about 10km southwest of the Old Town. Catch a Trakai- or Kaunasbound train, get off at Paneriai, turn right from the station and walk about 800 metres along Agrastu Street. The site is at the end of the road. To get there by car, leave Vilnius via Švitrigailos Street and follow the same road, bearing right on Eišiškiu plentas (near the Statoil fuel station) and then follow the signs. You also can reach the memorial via the city’s western bypass keeping the direction to Lyda and Minsk. It’s possible to find using a GPS or online route planner (e.g. www.google.com/maps). Going by bus is complicated, entailing several changes. For a chilling eyewitness account of the events that took place here, read Kazimierz Sakowicz’s extraordinary book Ponary Diary, 1941-1943, published by Yale, or Martin Winstone’s book The Holocaust Sites of Europe: An Historical Guide published by I B Tauris. QAgrastų 15, tel. (+370) 66 28 95 75, www.jmuseum.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, By appointment only. Admission free for individual visitors. For groups of up to 30 people €30, up to 15 people €16.

VILNIUS GAON JEWISH STATE MUSEUM (VALSTYBINIS VILNIAUS GAONO ŽYDŲ MUZIEJUS) Established inside a former Jewish theatre, the Centre for Tolerance’s activities include visiting exhibitions and a permanent exhibition on the upper floors. It is a beautifully restored building and is used for art exhibitions, symposiums, conferences, discussions and seminars.QH‑10, Naugarduko 10/2, tel. (+370) 52 62 96 66, www.jmuseum.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission €3/1.50. J

STATUES & MEMORIALS JEWISH CEMETERY (ŽYDŲ KAPINĖS) By Soviet order, both old Jewish cemeteries were destroyed after the war. With the help of foreign diplomacy only a few graves of famous people such as the Gaon of Vilna were moved here in a concession to the community. This new Jewish cemetery was actually opened just before the war and nowadays, especially on Sundays, is a place where Jewish people visit the graves of their beloved and you can meet interesting locals. The Gaon’s grave attracts visitors from many countries who leave notes of supplication by the graveside. To the left of the entrance is a small office where maps of the cemetery can be obtained if it’s open. Gravestones are covered in the writing of many languages including Yiddish, Lithuanian, Russian, Polish and English. To get there from the centre, take bus Nº73 from the Juozo Tumo-Vaižganto stop or Nº43 from the Lukiškės bus stop.QB‑2, Sudervės Kelias 28.

Jewish Vilna as it once was

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Views of Vilnius

Hill of Three Crosses

The Lithuanian capital is blessed with, if not majestic snowy peaks, then at least tree-covered hills in almost all directions. Climb up to one of the many viewpoints, camera in hand perhaps, and you’ll be able to see how the entire city is surrounded by thick, ancient forests. Select from any or all of the ones listed below. VIEWS TO WALK TO Well, you have a choice – healthily hike up the cobblestone path that winds around Gediminas Hill to the castle at the top, or just hop on the funicular. Or do one of them up and the other down. Whatever, this hill probably offers the best visual introduction to the city, where you’re rewarded with a 360-degree panorama of the older and newer areas, the chaotic maze of red-tile rooves and half-hidden lanes of the Old Town and the modern skyscrapers and residential districts across the river and beyond. This hill is where Vilnius was founded, according to legend, and the once mighty castle’s sole remaining red-brick tower dates back to the 13th century. Ravaged by fire and war throughout the ages, it was finally restored in 1930 and branded a historical landmark for independent Lithuania. Paying for entry to the tower itself is optional, but we believe the viewing platform at the top is one of Vilnius’ finest assets, in any weather. Eastwards across the park and the snaky little Vilnia river is another viewpoint accessible on foot, the Hill of Three Crosses. There are two ways up – via a quiet bridge and steep steps from the Vilnia or up a tiny road and path from Arsenalo and T. Kosciuškos streets close to where the Vilnia flows into the Neris. The three white crosses mark the spot where seven Franciscan monks were killed by local pagans in the 14th century, tied to wooden crosses and floated down the Neris, the idea being that their corpses would return forever to the west from whence they came. The monument dates from 1989, an earlier version having been destroyed by the Soviet authorities in the 1950s, pieces facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

of which still remain on the side of the hill, which is also known as Kreivasis, or Crooked Hill. One of the finest viewpoints across the Old Town and its countless spires is a place called Bekešas Hill, which can be found in the bohemian district of Užupis. From the Angel of Užupis statue, head upwards bearing left where the road forks. Continue for another few hundred metres until you reach a school on the left. Venture behind it passing some garages and climb the steps and grassy slope at the back to find the splendorous viewpoint. Two more fine views are located towards the southern end of Maironio Street. Heading in that direction, a flight of steps is visible up a grassy bank towards the Bastion. Climb them for a view northwards towards Gediminas Castle. Or follow Maironio to where it meets Subačiaus for an even more impressive panorama. The places you can see are hammered into a metal plate for ease of identification, and in warmer months there’s a makeshift café and tables. West of the Old Town, one of the best viewpoints is from Tauras Hill where the sadly decrepit Trade Union Palace stands alone. With one wing damaged by fire years ago and barely repaired, the palace now has a façade covered in street art. It also has a parking area in front of it where romantic youths gather by night for a bit of nookie. The surrounding park is one of Vilnius’ nicest open spaces. VIEWS TO BE CARRIED TO But for those who prefer a view with cocktail in hand, reached by lift, there are alternatives. Skybar, for example, on the 22nd floor of the towering, riverside Radisson Blu Lietuva Hotel, makes an excellent Long Island iced tea, frozen daiquiri and mojito, just in case you want to try all three. And in the city’s western suburbs is the even taller Soviet-era TV Tower, whose 55th-floor revolving restaurant provides a stunning panorama. Though it’s a bit pricey to get up, the 70km views (on a clear day) are truly incredible. August - November 2017

Trakai

GETTING TO TRAKAI Several ludicrously cheap buses leave daily from Vilnius’ bus station, starting before dawn and running until the early evening. The journey time is around 30-40 minutes. Trakai’s bus station is a shabby concrete shell with no facilities. As with the train station it’s also a ridiculously long way from the main sights, a good 20-minute walk north up Vytauto. Starting and ending around the same time as the buses but running less frequently, trains take about 40 minutes to make the journey and cost next to nothing. Taxis are usually parked outside both the bus and train stations. A trip to the centre shouldn’t cost more than €2. To reach Trakai by road, take the A1 (E85) road west out of the city, followed by the A4 in the direction of Druskininkai, then the A16 (E28), which takes you the rest of the way. Driving time depends on traffic but is 20 to 30 minutes. A taxi, if called in advance, will cost €25-30. BY BUS BUS STATION QVytauto 90, tel. (+370) 52 85 13 33, www. trakuautobusai.lt. Open 07:00 - 10:00, 12:00 - 20:00. BY TRAIN TRAIN STATION QVilniaus 5, tel. (+370) 70 05 51 11, www.litrail.lt. It works 15 minutes before train leaves. 78 Vilnius In Your Pocket

There’s still some way to go before Trakai’s up there with Paris and Barcelona, but compared to how it was not so long ago the town’s cultural offerings have simply ballooned. The Castle is the obvious draw, but do make time to see a few of the other treats the town has to offer.

CASTLE Drawing mild comparisons to the vast, red brick Teutonic fortress in the Polish town of Malbork, Trakai Castle (or Island Castle as it’s also known) may not be as grand as its Germanic cousin, but what it lacks in stature it more than makes up for in location. Sat splendidly on a diminutive Lake Galvė island at the northern end of the town, construction began in the 14th century at the behest of the then ruler of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania Kęstutis, and was completed at the start of the 15th century by his son Vytautas the Great. Built as part of an expansion programme of the neighbouring Peninsular Castle, its completion came at more or less the same time its military importance came to an end after the victory of the combined Polish-Lithuanian armies led by Vytautas against the Teutonic Order at the Battle of Grunwald (Lithuanian: Žalgiris) in 1410. Its second life as a residential palace saw it enter a golden age, with the castle visited and admired by many foreign dignitaries including Flemish diplomat Guillebert de Lannoy (1386-1462), who mentioned it favourably in his memoirs. The castle’s demise came with the vicious war with Muscovy in 1655, which saw it seriously damaged and eventually abandoned. vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Trakai Attempts to rebuild it have been ongoing since the 19th century, with wars and border shifts complicating each new project as it arose. Ironically it was during the Soviet occupation that it was eventually restored to its former glory, with work beginning soon after the end of WWII. Reached by crossing two footbridges and one island, Trakai Castle is essentially two structures, namely the defensive outer section and the Ducal Palace. Entrance to the island and lakeshore around the castle is free. CASTLE & TRAKAI HISTORY MUSEUM (TRAKŲ PILIS IR TRAKŲ ISTORIJOS MUZIEJUS) More like a giant game of snakes and ladders designed by MC Escher than an enriching cultural experience, the Trakai History Museum is spread around the castle and linked via a baffling array of higgledy-piggledy wooden steps and dark, plunging spiral staircases. The two main collections are to be found inside the western casemates (casements) and the Ducal Palace, the former and least interesting made up of 19th-century European glassware, ivory walking stick handles and the like and the latter a collection of items dug up in the vicinity of the castle, a huge collection of coins, a small exhibition dedicated to the Karaite and a few life-size models of medieval gents with enormous moustaches. More than worth a visit for a poke around if nothing else.QKęstučio 4, tel. (+370) 52 85 39 46, www.trakaimuziejus.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00. October 1 - October 31 Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. November 1 - November 30 Open 09:00 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €7/3.50.

PLACES OF INTEREST UŽUTRAKIS PALACE In its glory this mansion, built on land formerly occupied by the local Tatar community, belonged to the prominent Tiškevičius (Polish, Tyszkiewicz) family who lived in it until 1939. Built in the 19th century in a neo-Renaissance style, the palace itself is closed, but the grounds, designed by prominent French landscape gardener Edouard André (1840-1911). In summer this is a prime spot for a picnic and a stroll around the palace grounds. Catch a passenger ship and say you want to get off at Užutrakis, or rent a rowing boat. Alternatively, a taxi will set you back somewhere in the region of €7.QUžutrakio 17, tel. (+370) 52 85 50 06, www.seniejitrakai.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. October 1 - November 30 Open 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. Admission €3/1.5.

Castle and Trakai History Museum

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THE KARAITE Not to be confused with the much larger world Judaic Karaite movement, the Lithuanian Karaite (or Karaim, or even sometimes Karaimic) are as perplexing as the confusion surrounding their name suggests. Settled in Trakai from the Crimea by Grand Duke Vytautas at the end of the 14th century, the Lithuanian Karaite form a link in a bizarre chain connecting the two distant and contradictory worlds of Lithuania and Mesopotamia (modern-day Iraq), the birthplace of the original Karaite movement. The original Karaite were a puritanical Jewish splinter group who among other things rejected the Talmud and who somehow initiated the conversion to the Karaite faith of several Turkic tribes living on the Black Sea shores in the 13th century. It was some of these ethnically Turkic families who came to Trakai and other parts of the then Grand Duchy of Lithuania, first as bodyguards and later as successful farmers. Granted Magdeburg rights by Casimir IV (Lithuanian: Kazimieras) in 1441, the Lithuanian Karaite have, much like Trakai itself, suffered swings of both good and bad fortune over the centuries and have even found time to court controversy, namely during the Nazi occupation of Lithuania during WWII (1941-1944) when the then head of the Lithuanian and Polish Karaite movement Sereya Shapshala (1873-1961) handed over a list of the names of all Karaite members in order to protect them from the fate of the Jews. In the mid-1930s, Germany’s fledgling Nazi party formally defined the Karaite as not Jewish under the malevolent and sinister 1935 Reich Citizenship Law, a historical fact used by many Eastern European Jews during the Holocaust, who attempted to disguise themselves as Karaite in order to stay alive. Lithuanian Karaite religion is based on the Jewish faith with the above differences. Originally all religious services were conducted in Hebrew inside a kenesa, which has many similarities to a synagogue but which also witnesses a number of startling disparities including the necessity to remove footwear before entering the building. The Lithuanian Karaite language that eventually replaced Hebrew as the official religious language is a unique intermingling of the original Turkic tongue spoken by the community mixed with local Lithuanian and Polish inclusions. Like the Lithuanian Karaite themselves, the language is dying, with what few remaining members of the total Lithuanian count of around 250 Lithuanian Karaite integrating with Western society. Trakai remains the spiritual home of the Lithuanian Karaite movement and shamelessly exploits the Karaite myth for the purposes of tourism. Visitors are treated to a watered-down version of Karaite culture including all of the sights listed here and not forgetting kibinai, the signature pastries of Karaite cuisine. Learn more at www.karaimai.lt. August - November 2017

Trakai TRAKAI NATIONAL PARK One of a total of five national parks in Lithuania, at just 8,200 hectares Trakai Historical National Park is the smallest but by no means the least interesting. Set amidst gently rolling hills formed during the last Ice Age about 14,000 years ago, the park contains a total of 32 lakes, some truly spectacular scenery, one or two ethnographic sights of particular interest and the town of Trakai itself. A population of 14,000 rosy-faced locals, of whom many remain tied to the land, sprinkle the park with humanity, giving it an agreeable lived-in feel lacking in many other rural areas in the country. The proud recipient of national park status in 1992, Trakai Historical National Park is on the Unesco World Heritage tentative list. Things in its favour include its aforementioned comeliness and the town inside it that gives it its name, woodlands brimming with wildlife, traditional farmsteads and villages, manor houses, heaps of fresh air and a sense of having gone back in time. For more information, visit the Trakai Historical National Park Information Bureau in Trakai or browse the park’s website online at www.seniejitrakai.lt.

SENIEJI TRAKAI The Lithuanian capital for seven medieval years before Trakai itself took the reigns, Senieji (Old) Trakai, 6km or so southeast of Trakai, is an intriguing excursion for anyone with a pronounced interest in history or obscure rural churches. It boasts two sights worthy of investigation for the hardcore tourist. The village itself is a dull square of not particularly pretty wooden houses punctuated with the occasional Soviet monstrosity and sliced through the middle by the first point of interest, Trakų, a continuation of the road from Trakai. Trakų is lined with, as we said, mostly wooden houses and supposedly represents many elements of a typical Dzūkai village. You decide. At Trakų’s southernmost tip as it curves around to the right is the site of the once grand castle. This was the birthplace of Vytautas the Great, who in 1405 built a monastery here and settled an order of Benedictine monks inside. The castle is long gone, but the monastery remains, albeit in a poor state. In the 19th century part of the monastery was converted into a neo-Gothic church, which functions as Senieji Trakai’s main house of worship. Its relatively plain interior complete with peeling paint provides a rare glimpse inside smalltown religious faith in this corner of the world. Senieji Trakai provides no other forms of enlightenment or entertainment, not even a café. After spending an hour or so here, it’s not hard to see why they moved the capital up the road. The train station is 1km north of the church and monastery. To get from the former to the latter, turn right on exiting the station followed by the first left onto Trakų and follow the road all the way down. 80 Vilnius In Your Pocket

Magnificent Trakai Castle

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Staffed by friendly, knowledgeable locals, come here for armloads of brochures and information on cultural events, places to stay and lots more.QKaraimų 41, tel. (+370) 52 85 19 34, www. trakai-visit.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00. October 1 - November 31 Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JW TRAKAI HISTORICAL NATIONAL PARK INFORMATION BUREAU (TRAKŲ ISTORINIO NACIONALINIO PARKO DIREKCIJA) They can and will organise excursions inside the 8,200-hectare park. These are the people to see if you need a camping or fishing permit too. They also stock a number of brochures, postcards, souvenirs and maps. Hard to miss, find it located inside the big blue wooden former Post Office building. QKaraimų 5, tel. (+370) 52 85 57 76, www.seniejitrakai. lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.

FOOD & DRINK To visit Trakai and not eat kibinai is like going to Japan and circumventing the noodles. As well as the aforementioned Karaite speciality, the town can also provide sustenance from one or two other corners of the world. Don’t expect too much in the way of fine dining, but do be thankful that you won’t have to pack sandwiches. What little nightlife there is in Trakai tends to take place in its restaurants, although a couple of clubs open for the summer. Consult inyourpocket.com/trakai, or ask a local.

INTERNATIONAL APVALAUS STALO KLUBAS A menu of ostentatious fare alongside more traditional Lithuanian offerings and a splendid view of the castle make Round Table Club the town’s most sought-after dining address. Warmer months herald the opening of a charming glass-clinking terrace by the lake, while the menu embraces upscale munchies like foie gras, hare siloin and Uruguayan beef steak. There’s even a champagne menu.QKaraimų 53a, tel. (+370) 69 91 37 69, www.asklubas.lt. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €25. PTAUIEBSW vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Trakai KARAITE KYBYNLAR Widely reputed as one of Trakai’s best spots for a food stop, on colder days enjoy this authentic Karaite eatery’s cosy and colourful eastern-style sofas upstairs, or in summer sit on the lakeside terrace. Unique circular crusty pies filled with fish, lamb or chicken are perfect with a beer, as are the more typical smaller Cornish pasty-style kibinai. Moroccan-inspired dishes like tajine are delicious too, as is the fried trout in grape leaves, though you may have to wait a while for these. Don’t forget to try the traditional herbal Karaite liqueur.QKaraimų 29, tel. (+370) 69 80 63 20/(+370) 52 85 51 79, www.kybynlar.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €6. PTAUBSW SENOJI KIBININĖ Trakai’s oldest Karaite restaurant churns out endless hot kibinai pastries with various fillings to an appreciative audience packed inside a wooden house like families of sardines. It’s a long way off getting a Michelin star but if you don’t mind waiting for a table and people treading on your toes, bingo, this is a Trakai institution worthy of a visit.QKaraimų 65, tel. (+370) 52 85 58 65/(+370) 65 97 21 32, www.kibinas.lt. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 22:00. €5. TABS

SAILING & ROWING ŽALGIRIS YACHT CLUB If you are fearless, then test your nerves and face off against the gusting winds that prevail across the lakes of Trakai. Ok, not really. The winds here are essentially more of a bust than a gust. On the far side of the bridge where they dock, you can wander over and squander a pittance for some time on the lake. Be forewarned, these folks are tough to negotiate with.QŽemaitės 3, tel. (+370) 52 85 28 24.

WELLNESS TRASALIS Massage, mud baths, chocolate-antistress procedures, wine therapy and other tantalising ways in which to part with your money in exchange for an overall feeling of wellbeing. See the website for a full list of what’s available. QGedimino 26, tel. (+370) 65 63 88 54/(+370) 52 83 22 04, www.trasalis.lt. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. AUFLKDCwW

A genuine taste of Trakai: delicious kibinai at Kybynlar

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ACCOMMODATION APVALAUS STALO KLUBAS About as feminine as it gets, a night here is like something straight out of Alice In Wonderland. Overlooking the fairytale Gothic towers of the Castle, the interiors appear to have been designed by a committee of hairdressers and old ladies. If you can handle the frill of it all, extras include a sauna, two attached restaurants and wireless internet throughout. This is truly the cream of the crop, and by far the most expensive option in town.QKaraimų 53a, tel. (+370) 52 85 55 95, fax (+370) 52 85 17 60, www.asklubas. lt. €78 - 252. PiTJ HA6ILKDW hhhh ROWING HOTEL Part of the local rowing club and school, peep at superb views of the lake through windows in lodgings redolent of a bygone age. All rooms come with showers, internet connections, minibars and expensive wallpaper. Guests will be delighted to learn that as well as the aforementioned rowing and sleeping options, Academia Remigum comes with a delightfully petite Rowing Museum.QKaraimų 93a, tel. (+370) 69 81 37 77, www.rowinghotel.com. 5 Total rooms. PiHA6UIFLW hhh August - November 2017

Shopping

Shopping in Vilnius is fun, and for certain products (local beer and alcohol, amber, cigarettes) it’s a hell of a lot cheaper than it is in western Europe. Shops selling clothing, fashion brands and footwear can be found along Gedimino, in the Old Town and inside the city’s many malls. The city’s markets are also worth a visit for an authentic local experience.

SHOPPING CENTRES GO9 Looking more fabulous than ever after a careful refit, this little mall in the heart of the city is located in a grand building that’s worth a look even if you’re not shopping. It dates from 1948 and was once the site of the city’s very first nightclub and, for much of the Soviet period, newspaper offices. Besides the many shops there’s free Wifi throughout and some decent dining.QI‑8, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 65 59 25 50, www.go9.lt. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 18:00, Rimi 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PJ AUKW VCUP First opened in 1974, this was more-or-less the first modern indoor shopping area to open in Vilnius. After much renovation, today it’s still one of the better places to shop in the city centre. The stores are small but varied, with eating and drinking options and sweeping river views. QH‑6, Upės 9, tel. (+370) 52 73 15 15, www.vcup.lt/en/. Shops 10:00 - 22:00, Maxima Supermarket 08:00 - 22:00, restaurants 10:00 - 24:00. PAULW 82 Vilnius In Your Pocket

AMBER AMBER An astounding Aladdin’s cave of amber. The walls and ceiling are plastered with glowing chips of the stuff while display cabinets are full of jewellery, sculptures and more. Worth visiting even if you’re not interested in shopping. QJ‑11, Aušros Vartų 9, tel. (+370) 52 12 19 88, www. ambergift.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PJA AMBER MUSEUM-GALLERY A great little place apt at displaying amber at its best. The knowledgeable and friendly staff speak English, and can waffle on for hours about the stuff if you want to know all about it.QJ‑9, Šv. Mykolo 8, tel. (+370) 52 62 30 92, www.ambergallery.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Also at Šv. Mykolo 12. JA

Amber – Lithuanian gold

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Shopping ANTIQUES Unless the item in question is less than 50 years old, some degree of bureaucracy will almost certainly be required to get antiques out of the country. A reputable antiques salesperson will assist you with this. If they can’t, you might like to think again about making the purchase. SENASIS KUPARAS A fine little shop full of beautiful and highly sought-after antiques, from Russian icons to silverware to furniture. QI‑9, Dominikonų 14, tel. (+370) 52 62 10 24. Open by appointment. JA

BOOKS Bookworms and cheapskates should note that in addition to the following bookshops reading matter can be found at various libraries, listed in our Directory at inyourpocket.com/vilnius. International press is best found in the city’s better hotels, some of which offer a pre-ordering service for newspapers and magazines, as well as at Narvesen in Europa (see shopping centres). AKADEMINĖ KNYGA A wide range of works for lexicographers, plus the usual dictionaries, reference books and paperback novels. One of the better places in town for foreign literature, which you’ll find downstairs.QI‑9, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 52 66 16 80, www.humanitas.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 15:00. Closed Sun. JA DIDYSIS PEGASAS Extended during the summer this is now easily the biggest bookshop in the Baltics. And it’s a proper bookshop too, with sofas, armchairs and scatter cushions for reading on, as well as stationery and toys. You’ll do well not to spend an entire afternoon (and loads of money) here.QF‑2, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 52 38 77 52, www.pegasas.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A DRAUGYSTĖ This former largish bookshop recently removed half its stock and replaced it with a money-spinning café. Englishlanguage novels can be counted on one hand, but also find a few glossy tomes about Lithuania in English.QI‑8, Gedimino 2, tel. (+370) 52 68 50 80, www.vaga.lt. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, Also at Gedimino 9 (GO9), Gedimino 13, Gedimino 50, Pilies 22, Didžioji 27. JA

COMPUTERS IDREAM The best place in town for Apple products, from laptops to iPods.QF‑2, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 60 61 87 99, www.idream.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

EUROPA Situated among the skyscrapers of the business district, the elegant PC EUROPA shopping centre hosts the most sought-after Lithuanian and international brands, plus a range of restaurants for all tastes. Find it just a few minutes’ walk from the Radisson BLU Lietuva or a 10-minute cab ride from Vilnius airport. The high-end premises have a full range of ladies’ and men’s clothing, shoes and accessories for all occasions. The stylish space on three floors hosts shops with such renowned brands as Michael Kors, Wolford, Stefanel and Grey&White and exclusive men’s stores such as Aeronautica Militare, Suitsupply, Armani Jeans and Strellson. Lithuania’s most famous fashion designers can also be found here and with eight cafés and restaurants, beauty salons and even a golf training centre, PC EUROPA has a little something for everyone.QH‑6, Konstitucijos 7a, tel. (+370) 61 69 56 80, www.pceuropa.lt. Shops 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00, Maxima 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00, Lemon Gym 06:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PTJAULKW

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Shopping MOUSTACHE BOUTIQUE At this innovative local design workshop and store, with an entrance from Benediktinių Street, find everything from unique clothes and shoes to cute trinkets and accessories, for women and men.QVilniaus 28, tel. (+370) 65 61 20 32, www.moustache.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 17:00. Closed Sun.

FOOD & DRINK Unusual bottles at The Whisky Shop by Duoklė Angelams

FASHION BALDININI Clumpy or high-heeled, sturdy or feline, however you like your footwear, it’s here in the local store of the ultrafashionable Milano brand.QVokiečių 11, tel. (+370) 64 09 33 53, www.baldinini-shop.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. BALTAS MIŠKAS ‘White Forest’ is a pristine space displaying the finest and freshest in Baltic fashion.QŠv. Mikalojaus 13, tel. (+370) 69 31 12 60, www.baltasmiskas.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. LA PERLA The local outlet of the Italian luxury lifestyle company, with intimate apparel for women and men.QVokiečių 5, tel. (+370) 61 01 82 22, www.laperla.com. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. THE WHISKY SHOP BY DUOKLĖ ANGELAMS A dazzling array of more than 500 whiskies are on sale at this Old Town store found down a tiny side-street from Pilies. Those from Scotland are on the shelves furthest from the door, with smoky ones top-left, a fine selection from the misty isles and even some from distilleries that have been closed. Whiskies distilled in the rest of the world can be found closer to the door, including gold medal-winning Kavalan from Taiwan, Mackmyra from Sweden, rare Hammer Head from the former Czechoslovakia, the traditional Irish moonshine Poitín, the highly original buckwheat whisky Eddu from Bretagne, India’s hugely popular Amrut and much more. Prices range from €15 to almost €5,000 for an exceedingly rare 1978 Karuizawa single malt from Japan. The Whisky Shop also sells several rums, gins, tequilas, cognacs, Armagnac and Calvados. They have a whisky bar next door too, which is open at night.QPilies 25, tel. (+370) 67 17 63 08, viskiokrautuve.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 84 Vilnius In Your Pocket

ALAUS PIRKLIAIQŠiaulių 5, tel. (+370) 65 91 22 64, www.alauspirkliai.lt. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Sat 15:00 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. BIOSALA A superior selection of mostly organic food in tins and packets plus a few extras like biodegradable washing powder, etc.QI‑9, Vokiečių 13, tel. (+370) 61 06 53 40, www.biosala.lt. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00, Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), Linkmenų 22 (Rimi). JA DELIKATESAI MAMMA MIA! A highly recommended deli in the heart of Old Town selling a superb range of food and drink, mostly from small producers in Italy, Spain, Portugal, Belgium and Germany. As well as a shopping space there’s also a small café inside, where coffee and other drinks are served alongside the aforementioned wonderful food.QI‑10, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 67 39 13 92. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JAVSW LIVINN A fine selection of mostly food products, including a range of goods from the UK-based Infinity Foods. Among the selection are Fair Trade organic basmati rice, organic peanut butter and large tins of ghee.QGedimino 9, tel. (+370) 65 02 97 18, www.livinn.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Also at Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), Upės 9 (VCUP), Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Žirmūnų 64 (Rimi Hypermarket). JA SAY CHEESE A lively little niche near the cathedral sells fresh and wonderfully scented Dutch, Italian and French cheeses, doubling as a bistro offering grilled cheese sandwiches, salads and wine. The range changes regularly but you might be lucky enough to enjoy green olives marinated in parmesan, or Gruyère cheese caramels.QGedimino 3A, tel. (+370) 65 59 96 67, www.say-cheese.lt.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS AUKSO AVIS Textile works of Lithuanian artists, expressing Lithuanian culture through a modern context.QJ‑9, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 52 61 04 21/(+370) 61 22 05 60. Open 11:00 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Shopping BALTA BALTA In a sheltered courtyard just off Pilies Street is this fascinating shop selling handcrafted products created by local artists out of ecological materials and natural dyes. Silk, wool and linen are used to make scarves and hats, cushions and things for the home, clothes for adults and for kids, a gorgeous range of vintage-style soft toys, a swing made of thick local wool and much more. There are also some woollen carpets from Iran, of all places. Natural cosmetics, toothpastes and vitamin-packed immunityboosting ‘bee bread’, all made locally, are also on offer. QJ‑9, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 68 58 04 05, www.baltabalta. com. Open 11:00 - 19:00. JA

WHAT TO BUY IN VILNIUS

ETHNO BALTIC SHOP Find a fabulous array of t-shirts, sweatshirts, gifts and souvenirs in a pavilion shop right in the middle of the Old Town, which also sells authentic ethnic art and ancient Lithuanian symbols with a modern twist. Most of the items are available only at this store in Vilnius and these include carved wooden figures of historical warriors, fantastic birds and angels, black ceramics, beeswax candles and creams, traditional textiles, replicas of medieval jewellery, drinking horns, local soaps and more. The unique designs on the t-shirts, sweatshirts and linen shirts are based on local archaeological finds, coats of arms and other national icons. Prices begin at as low as €1.QIn front of Pilies 40, tel. (+370) 64 62 84 94. Open 11:00 - 19:00.

LINEN The deeply ingrained tradition of flax growing is centuries old, and while you won’t find endless fields of it blowing in the wind these days, the durable yarn is still woven into tablecloths, runners, napkins, chair covers, etc. As clothing, linen easily absorbs perspiration, making it pleasant to wear in summer. Try the shops on Stiklių (I-9, I-10).

STIKLO PASLAPTIS (WORLD OF GLASS) An intriguing selection of decorative and functional Lithuanian glassware. The people who run this place also offer glass-blowing workshops.QJ‑10, Didžioji 38, tel. (+370) 65 61 88 91, www.stiklopaslaptis.lt. Open 11:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA

MUSIC There aren’t many music shops around these days, but for Lithuanian classical, folk and pop CDs you could try Rūdninkų knygynas near All Saints’ Church (Rūdninkų 20, I-11, open daily).

JEWELLERY BAREKET Silver and gold melt together in fantastic medleys. If you’re looking to propose, the Bareket people are also deep into the diamond business.QG‑7, Vasario 16-osios 16-2, tel. (+370) 52 12 30 87/(+370) 52 12 30 92, www.ebareket. lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA

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AMBER The fossilised sap has been washing up on Lithuania’s sandy shores for aeons. If you can’t be bothered gathering tiny bits of it on the beach (best after choppy weather), chunks are plentiful in the shops. And for something gleaming, millions of years old and sometimes containing ancient plants and insects, it’s ridiculously cheap. There are shops all the way up Pilies, Didžioji and Aušros Vartų (J-9, J-10, J-11).

HONEY Lithuanian mythology says bees are holy, and the buzzy beasts are still revered. To try some honey, head to Bitinėlis (V Šopeno 12, I-11, open Mon-Sat) or find a stall at Halės Market (I-11, open Tue-Sun).

STARKA AND MEAD There’s lots of local firewater to guzzle yourself or take home as a souvenir from the airport’s Duty Free shops. Starka is a traditional caramel-coloured, slightly sweet vodka made from natural rye spirit. Mead is also a great souvenir, often packaged in attractive wee boxes. And look out for Trejos devynerios (Three Nines), an infusion of 26 herbs, and the strong, sour Malūnininkų.

August - November 2017

Shopping

YURGA A superb range of jewellery for men and women, all of it hand-crafted by a talented local designer in a range of materials. Yurga also makes one-off pieces to order including engagement and wedding rings as well as a handsome range of corporate gifts. Buy from one of the experts in the shop or via the website. QI‑9, Trakų 16, tel. (+370) 52 12 28 56, www.yurga. lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA

LINEN TALES Find beautifully designed and crafted linen for bedrooms, bathrooms, kitchens and much more besides, all made by Lithuanians to the highest possible standards. This shop is an excellent option for visitors searching for outstanding gifts and souvenirs, as well as locals looking for something unique for their homes.QI‑10, Stiklių 4, tel. (+370) 62 66 89 61, www.linentales.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Also at Bernardinų 10, Vilnius Airport, A4 gate. JA

LINEN

LINO NAMAI Linen, the fabric that really breathes, is available here for just about any part of the body or the home. One of the city’s top shops.QJ‑9, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 52 12 23 22, www.siulas.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00, Also at Universiteto 10, Vilniaus 12. JA

Grown in the fields of Lithuania for centuries, flax is a plant yielding fibres which, after a laborious process, can be woven together to create a durable, ecological and highly valued textile called linen. Clothing made from linen is especially good for hot weather as its absorbent nature keeps the skin cool. Flax seeds, meanwhile, are a healthy source of vitamins, minerals and omega-3 acids. In a typical Lithuanian rural household, tablecloths, table runners, bedding, towels and other objects were often made of linen. These days, linen products and souvenirs in the Vilnius shops are almost as popular as amber.

ANGELO KIDS Achingly cute clothes for girls, boys and babies can be found in two bright and cheerful rooms just around the corner from the Toy Museum, close to the Cathedral. Besides brilliant brands like RuffleButts from the US, JoJo Maman Bébé from the UK and Monna Rosa from Milan, Angelo Kids also creates its own colourful collections in the studio next door. Look no further for Christening dresses and costumes, baby clothes and basically anything wonderful to wear for ages 0 to 13. E-shopping is also perfectly doable.QB. Radvilaitės 7, tel. (+370) 64 77 11 77, www.angelokids.lt/lt/. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Also at Šeimos aikštė 5 (Ogmios miestas). A 86 Vilnius In Your Pocket

LITHUANIAN COUTURE JULIA JANUS A homegrown fashion success story, Julia Janus creates clothes and lots more besides. Everything is based on the Baltic notion of simple, elegant design inspired by everything the region has to offer. You will find something here you want to buy...QI‑10, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 52 61 43 46, www.juliajanus.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00, Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Verkių 29 (Parkas Outlet). JA RAMUNĖS PIEKAUTAITĖS MADOS NAMAI Put elegance and confidence in a blender, add a hint of daring and/or fruity nonsense and press the puree button. Or just pop along here to see the results, courtesy of another internationally successful local designer.QJ‑10, Didžioji 20, tel. (+370) 61 56 70 93, www.ramunepiekautaite. com. Open 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 16:00. JA

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Shopping

Balta Balta

MARKETS AKROPOLIO BLUSŲ TURGUS Catching on to the latest craze to sweep the nation, this weekly flea market outside the vast Akropolis shopping centre features a fairly decent selection of stalls selling everything from old paintings to Soviet memorabilia. QF‑2, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.lt. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat. HALĖS MARKET (HALĖS TURGUS) The modern, glass-covered affair to the left selling clothing that went out of fashion in Albania in the 1980s and raw meat at the back is perhaps best worth avoiding, but the beautifully restored brick building dating from 1900 is more than worth a look inside. A trip through the doors rewards visitors with a nasal blast of several tonnes of smoked meat, which can be bought here along with other specialities including fresh fruit and vegetables plus a nice range of locally-produced honey you can taste before you purchase.QI‑11, Pylimo 58, tel. (+370) 52 62 55 36, www.halesturgaviete.lt. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 15:00. Closed Mon. J KALVARIJŲ TURGUS Featuring everything from old ladies selling garlic bulbs and carrier bags to the occasional bargain goat (cash only), one of the city’s most endangered species is a must-see attraction for anyone who wants a taste of what the rest of the country’s really like. One of the best places in town for meat, locally-produced honey and cameras manufactured in the CCCP, also find tropical fish, manbags, Minsk bicycles facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

and cheap cigarettes from the Roma girls near the main entrance.QI‑5, Kalvarijų 61, tel. (+370) 69 63 57 18, www. kalvariju-turgus.lt. Open 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. VERSLO PARKAS GARIŪNAI Covering a vast area of 120 hectares (there are some who say it’s the largest outdoor market in Europe) and attracting an average 50,000 shoppers every day, Gariūnai sells cars on one side of the road plus all manner of cheap consumer goods of dubious quality on a truly expansive scale on the other. A taxi from a reputable firm costs around €10 to get there from the city centre. Alternatively, look for the minibuses around the train and bus stations with Gariūnai signs on the front.Q4km from Vilnius just off the Kaunas highway, tel. (+370) 66 97 77 79, www.gariunai.lt. Open 05:30 - 14:00, Tue 02:30 - 14:00, Thu 03:00 - 14:00, Sat 04:30 - 16:00, Sun 05:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

RECORDED MUSIC THELONIOUS A superb choice of second-hand CDs and vinyl, mostly jazz but also a few other gems you won’t find in a mainstream music shop. It also sells old-fashioned hi-fi equipment for those who don’t know their iPods from their elbows. Devoted to the cause, Thelonious now organises the occasional concert. See website for more info.QI‑10, Stiklių 12, tel. (+370) 52 12 10 76, www. thelonious.lt. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J August - November 2017

Leisure

Relax in one of the city’s calming spas

As tempting as it may be to just sit around in cafés and bars enjoying the city, there might be occasions when you might want to actually do something. Whether it’s relaxation or action, we’ve hand-picked a bunch of options and stuffed our pages with stuff to do.

ACTIVE LEISURE UNO PARKS Not far from the city centre on the eastern shore of the Neris, Uno offers over 1.5km of tracks up in the trees aimed at everyone from kids to beginners to professional Tarzans. Each route comes with ziplines for aerial flights, plus there’s a 16m swing for the completely insane and an aerial runway across the river. The place is hidden from the road with barely any signposts. A map on the website partially solves the mystery.QLizdeikos, tel. (+370) 60 23 23 66, www.unoparks.lt. Open 10:00 - 21:30.

BIKE RENTAL CYCLOCITY CycloCity, a joint initiative between Vilnius municipality and JCDecaux, is aimed at anyone looking to cycle around the city. A subscription-based service, it allows users to rent from a stock of over 300 bicycles parked at 37 stations around the city for any amount of time - just as long as you’ve got enough credit in your account. Subscriptions are available online at www.cyclocity.lt/en/ and cost €19.90 a year. There are number of deals - including a special three88 Vilnius In Your Pocket

day offer - and the option to use your Vilniečio Kortelė public transport card. See the website for more information about deals and to sign up.QI‑8, tel. (+370) 80 02 20 08, www.en.cyclocity.lt. A VILNIUS BIKE TOURS & RENTAL - VELOCITY VILNIUS A local organisation that rents bicycles, organises city tours by bike, provides maps and information about cycling in the city and organises free cycling events. The daily (except Sundays) tour All Sides of Vilnius begins at 11:00 at the bicycle rental at Pylimo 31.QI‑10, Pylimo 31, tel. (+370) 67 41 21 23, www.velovilnius.lt. Open 10:00 - 20:00. JA

BOWLING & BILLIARDS FUKSAS Use any of the 12 high-quality pool tables, including one for Russian pool, and make good use of the well-stocked bar. Or just enjoy a drink.QGedimino 28/2, tel. (+370) 52 60 89 26, www.fuksas.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.

ESCAPE ROOMS DECODE ROOM At this clever escape room next to the train station, collect the clues in rooms set up to resemble a spy’s Moscow apartment and solve the puzzle. Teams of two to six players work best, ideally four, with tweens and teens welcome too.QGeležinkelio 6. Open 12:00 - 21:00. vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Leisure ILLUMINATI ROOM At this escape room requiring equal parts logic and imagination in order to make it out, work through a variety of clues and challenges for you and your team to find the answers in less than 60 minutes. Go!QGeležinkelio 6, tel. (+370) 61 55 45 58, www.illuminatiroom.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00. LABYRINTHUS Enter a dark door concealed within the concrete maze of the city’s western suburbs and you will be plunged into an escape game from which you may never emerge. Teams lead themselves through scary, dimly lighted corridors and tight passages, interpreting messages to open the right doors. One game is for kids aged 12 to 16, another for those aged 14 and up. Website in Lithuanian only.QLaisvės 60, tel. (+370) 68 78 21 18, www.labyrinthus.lt/en. Open 11:00 - 22:00.

FITNESS & GYMS FORUM SPORTS CLUB Gym, aerobics, 25m pool, saunas, modern equipment and the option of a personal trainer to shout at you while you use it.QG‑5, Konstitucijos 26, tel. (+370) 61 63 60 13, www.forumfitness.lt. Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. AFDC

GOLF EUROPOS CENTRO GOLFO KLUBAS An international standard 6km par 72 course, 26km from Vilnius. Equipment rental and instruction available. QMolėtų pl. 26 km (Girijos), tel. (+370) 61 62 63 66, www.golfclub.lt. Open 09:00 - 21:00. AKW

ILLUSION ROOM ILLUSION ROOM Kids, teens and adults alike are bound to have fun at this museum of illusions in the Old Town, a first for the Baltics. To say much more would spoil the surprise. Amazing, intriguing, friendly and highly recommended.QVokiečių 6, tel. (+370) 67 22 54 14, www.vilnil.lt/en. Open 10:00 - 21:00.

MAKE-UP HAIR CARE & STYLE HOLLYWOOD MANICURE & PEDICURE 6D BROWS FACE CORRECTIONS & INJECTIONS MASSAGES COSMETICS HOME FRAGRANCES HEN PARTIES BRIDE’S LOUNGE Odminių str. 14, Vilnius +370 650 65666 www.beautyresort.lt

KAYAKING PIPIRO BAIDARĖS See Vilnius from unique and memorable angles by kayaking down the Neris or the faster, trickier Vilnelė. These guys drive you to a rural point upriver and then down you paddle, under bridges and through the city centre.Qtel. (+370) 68 33 89 35, www.pipirobaidares.lt.

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August - November 2017

Leisure

MAKEUP BEAUTY RESORT At this exceptional home of beauty with a calming interior, you’ll find the latest trends and procedures including makeup, hairdressing, eyebrow treatments, upscale pedicures and manicures, injection procedures and much more. Beard shaping for gents too.QOdminių 14, tel. (+370) 65 06 56 66, www.imakeup.lt/. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

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MAKEUP 2 GO Offering personal consultations by makeup and beauty experts, especially important if you have a special event rapidly approaching, this polished and super-efficient salon also holds courses and seminars. QPamėnkalnio 3, tel. (+370) 69 00 77 72, www. makeup2go.lt.

ON WHEELS SUPER SEGWAY These extraordinary if not particularly alluring machines are available to buy and to rent.QI‑9, Vilniaus 45, tel. (+370) 61 23 44 44, www.supersegway.com. Open 11:00 18:00. JA

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Leisure SPA & BEAUTY AZIA SPA (ODMINIŲ) The second Azia Spa massage house, settled into a location directly across from Cathedral Square, is distinguished by its more spacious premises and unique, eye-catching oriental design. Massive stone statues of goddesses, authentic wooden furniture, original frescoes with mystical creatures on the walls – and that’s only part of the exotic world of faraway East Asia you can find here. Enjoy this real oasis of serenity and bliss in the middle of Vilnius city centre.QOdminių 3, tel. (+370) 52 53 13 13, www.aziaspa. lt. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. J AZIA SPA (ŠV. MIKALOJAUS) Offering a full menu of eastern-style massages with a Buddhist philosophy, Azia Spa also provides the pleasure of exotic facials, body scrubs, wraps and more. Pressurepoint massages and herbal baths add to the experience, and special pampering massages for two are also available. QI‑10, Šv. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 52 44 46 46/(+370) 64 40 30 00, www.aziaspa.lt. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. JA BARZDASKUČIAI BARBER SHOP Takes male grooming in Vilnius to a whole new level. Get yourself a haircut, a shave or even one of those vigorous facial massages that are a feature of this part of the world. You can even get your shoes shined. Best of all though you will love the fantastic original, old-fashioned barber’s chairs, which must be worth an absolute fortune.QI‑10, Žydų 2-8, tel. (+370) 52 62 58 87, www.barzdaskuciai.lt. Open 11:00 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Also at Vilniaus 31. JAW EXOTIC SPA MOROCCO A tiny but warming oasis of the exotic lies off a narrow lane in the the Old Town offering classical, relaxing, sports, anticellulite, hot-stone and other massages, treats for couples and a few saucy options for gentlemen. Check the website for the full spread.QI‑10, Šv. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 52 12 12 15, www.exoticspa.lt. Open 11:00 - 21:00. J

TATTOOS & PIERCING ANGIS TATTOO Ink wielding artists who speak English, Russian, French and Spanish. An hour of tattooing costs €90. Minimum charge €45.

KARAOKE SING The best karaoke bar in the land has more than 40,000 songs, a great bar and separate stylish rooms for pop (the biggest), disco, rock, jazz and classics. Rent the rooms by the hour, with packages available, plus optional vocal effects synthesizer.QGedimino 27, tel. (+370) 69 87 75 53, www.singkaraoke.lt/index.php. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

They refused to tattoo our eyeballs, but didn’t refuse a client who requested a tattoo in a place normally only seen by proctologists and customs officers. That would have hurt.QJ‑9, Literatų 4, tel. (+370) 68 91 65 94. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

WATER ACTIVITIES DIUGONIS (SCUBA-DIVING) A PADI dive centre with English-speaking staff, who can arrange dives in the lakes around Trakai. Scuba gear available for hire.QA‑2, J. Matulaičio 7-38, tel. (+370) 67 03 22 72, www.scubadiving.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A VICHY AQUA PARK A big splash of aquatic fun with a pleasantly uplifting Polynesian theme. There are dizzying water-slides, a pretend beach with real waves, oodles of pools of various types (one with a bar) and all sorts of saunas and spa baths. Out in the northern suburbs, the taxi fare is worth it, or take bus N°53 if you’re feeling cheap. QH‑1, Ozo 14c, tel. 118, www.vandensparkas.lt. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. TAEKDC

WINTER SPORTS AKROPOLIS ICE (AKROPOLIO LEDAS) It’s skating in a shopping centre, and it’s cooler than it sounds.QF‑2, Ozo 25, tel. (+370) 65 99 19 74, www. akropolis.lt. Open 09:30 - 22:00. August - November 2017

Health DENTISTS A IR B MACKEVIČIŲ ODONTOLOGIJOS KLINIKA (A AND B MACKEVIČIUS DENTAL CLINIC) A team of experienced professionals provides an extensive range of dental services. As well as offering quality Englishspeaking services to resident foreigners, they specialise in dental procedures at very reasonable prices to visitors to the city too. Laser-whitening €300, implants €580-730 per tooth, prosthetic CAM/DAM CEREC 3 system €290580, orthodontics for children and adults, treatments with microscope and magnifying lens also available.QI‑8, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 9-9, tel. (+370) 52 61 25 12/(+370) 68 63 05 26, www.dentaltravel.lt. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Also at Nemenčinės 54a (Baltic-American Clinic), K. Dineikos 1, Druskininkai (SPA Vilnius). JA

MEDICAL SERVICES BALTIC- AMERICAN CLINIC Highly recommended modern professional health care and diagnostics, now bigger and better than ever. QNemenčinės 54a, tel. (+370) 52 34 20 20/(+370) 69 85 26 55, www.bak.lt. Open 24hrs. A KARDIOLITA A privately-run hospital.QA‑1, Laisvės 64a, tel. (+370) 52 39 05 00, www.kardiolita.lt. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Fri 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

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Directory COMPUTER REPAIR MATRIX Hard drive recovery et al.QF‑10, Vytenio 10, tel. (+370) 52 13 45 74, www.matrix.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A

DRY CLEANERS & LAUNDERETTES JOGLĖ The full range of dry cleaning and laundry services.QF‑8, J. Jasinskio 16 (entrance from A. Goštauto), tel. (+370) 52 64 91 64/(+370) 62 01 11 77, www.jogle.lt. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun, Also at Gedimino 9 (GO9), Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama). A

GENEALOGY LITHUANIAN CENTRAL REGISTRY ARCHIVE (ISTORIJOS ARCHYVO SKYRIUS) The entire Lithuanian civil registry archives from 1940 to the present day, including records of all births, deaths and marriages. In order to use this service, location and approximate date are essential.QMindaugo 8, tel. (+370) 52 13 74 82, www.archyvai.lt. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 12:45 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 12:00, 12:45 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J LITHUANIAN CENTRAL STATE ARCHIVE (LIETUVOS CENTRINIS VALSTYBĖS ARCHYVAS) When the Nazis invaded Lithuania, one of their first tasks was to prepare an extensive set of records of everyone living in the country. Those looking to trace people living in Lithuania during the period 1941-42 should consult this archive.QO. Milašiaus 21, tel. (+370) 52 47 78 30, www. archyvai.lt. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 12:45 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 12:00, 12:45 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. LITHUANIAN STATE HISTORICAL ARCHIVES (LIETUVOS VALSTYBĖS ISTORIJOS ARCHYVAS) The same as the Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (see above), only these archives are from the church registry up until 1940.QMindaugo 8, tel. (+370) 52 19 53 20, www. archyvai.lt. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 12:45 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 12:00, 12:45 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. REGISTRY (GYVENTOJŲ REGISTRO TARNYBA) If you have a name and need an address these people will help you locate the person in question (the addition of a town helps speed things up), although non-Lithuanians be warned that if the person in question is located they are first asked if they actually want to be ‘found’ before the address is given. The sensible thing for non-nationals to do is to use this service with a Lithuanian intermediary. QG‑10, Vinco Kudirkos 18-3, tel. (+370) 52 68 82 62, www.registrucentras.lt/en. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket

SPECIAL INTEREST GROUPS INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S ASSOCIATION OF VILNIUS This long-established association welcomes women from all cultural backgrounds living in the Lithuanian capital. As well as organising regular events including coffee mornings, social evenings and a book club, it hosts a number of charitable events, such as the annual, muchloved International Christmas Charity Bazaar in early December.Qwww.iwavilnius.com. THE INTERNATIONAL CHURCH OF VILNIUS Renting the Evangelical Lutheran Church at Vokiečių Street 20 for services, the international church conducts English-language worship at 09:30 every Sunday as well as midweek Bible studies and courses exploring the Christian faith. It also hosts many special events including a carol service in December, Christmas morning worship and an Easter sunrise service.QI‑10, Vokiečių 20, tel. (+370) 67 33 89 96, www.vilniuschurch.org. Ecumenical Worship Sun 09:30.

VETS & PETS SENAMIESČIO VETERINARIJOS KLINIKA House calls can be arranged.QI‑9, Liejyklos 6, tel. (+370) 69 96 12 65, www.veterinaras.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA August - November 2017

Directory BUSINESS CONNECTIONS AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QG‑5, Konstitucijos 26, tel. (+370) 52 61 11 81, www. amcham.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ASSOCIATION OF LITHUANIAN CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE, INDUSTRY & CRAFTS (LIETUVOS PREKYBOS, PRAMONĖS IR AMATŲ RŪMŲ ASOCIACIJA) QG‑7, Vašingtono 1-63a, tel. (+370) 52 61 21 02, www. chambers.lt. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 12:45 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J BRITISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QJ‑9, Didžioji 5, tel. (+370) 52 69 00 62, www.bccl.lt. J CHAMBRE DE COMMERCE FRANCO-LITUANIENNE (PRANCŪZIJOS-LIETUVOS PREKYBOS RŪMAI) QJ‑9, Švarco 1, tel. (+370) 65 57 79 84, www.cci-fr.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J INVEST LITHUANIA (INVESTUOK LIETUVOJE) QH‑8, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 52 62 74 38, www. investlithuania.com. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J VILNIUS CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, INDUSTRY & CRAFTS (VILNIAUS PREKYBOS, PRAMONĖS IR AMATŲ RŪMAI) QG‑11, T. Kosciuškos 30, tel. (+370) 52 13 55 50, fax (+370) 52 13 55 42, www.cci.lt. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Close Sat, Sun. J

LGBT The websites www.lgl.lt/ en and www.gayline.lt have information about LGBT organisations and events in Lithuania, plus community news, chat rooms and personal ads. Lithuania has a record of limited rights for members of the LGBT community, but attitudes are changing. In June 2016, Baltic Pride took place along central Gedimino Avenue in Vilnius for the third time, attracting a crowd of 3,000 people. Lithuania’s lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender rights association LGL is the country’s only NGO exclusively representing the interests of the local LGBT community. Working for 20 years for advocacy, awareness and community building, it pushes for progress in the field of LGBT rights. The LGL office is located at Pylimo 21, which is also home to Lithuania’s only LGBT centre, open to all well-meaning visitors wanting to know more about LGBT rights here. The LGL website above has more info in English on current events.QH‑10, Pylimo 21, tel. (+370) 52 61 03 14, www.lgl.lt/en/. 94 Vilnius In Your Pocket

EUROPEAN UNION INSTITUTIONS THE EUROPEAN COMMISSION REPRESENTATION IN LITHUANIA QH‑8, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 52 31 31 91, www. ec.europa.eu/lietuva. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J THE EUROPEAN INFORMATION CENTRE OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT INFORMATION OFFICE AND THE EUROPEAN COMMISSION REPRESENTATION IN LITHUANIA QH‑8, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 52 31 31 83, www. ec.europa.eu/lietuva/eu_information_network/eic/ index_lt.htm. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J THE EUROPEAN INSTITUTE FOR GENDER EQUALITY (EUROPOS LYČIŲ LYGYBĖS INSTITUTAS) QH‑8, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 52 15 74 00/(+370) 52 15 74 44, www.eige.europa.eu/lt. THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT INFORMATION OFFICE IN LITHUANIA (EUROPOS PARLAMENTO INFORMACIJOS BIURAS LIETUVOJE) QH‑8, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 52 12 07 66, www. europarl.lt.

FOREIGN REPRESENTATIONS CANADAQH‑8, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 52 49 09 50, fax (+370) 52 49 78 65, www.lietuva.gc.ca. J CZECH REPUBLICQD‑8, Birutės 16, tel. (+370) 52 66 10 40, fax (+370) 52 66 10 66, www.mzv.cz/vilnius. DENMARKQL‑6, T. Kosciuškos 36, tel. (+370) 52 64 87 60, www.litauen.um.dk/en.aspx. FINLANDQG‑9, K. Kalinausko 24, tel. (+370) 52 66 80 10, fax (+370) 52 12 24 41, www.finland.lt. J FRANCEQJ‑9, Švarco 1, tel. (+370) 52 19 96 20, www. ambafrance-lt.org. J GERMANYQF‑9, Z. Sierakausko 24, tel. (+370) 52 10 64 00, fax (+370) 52 10 64 46, www.vilnius.diplo.de. IRELANDQI‑8, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 52 62 94 60, fax (+370) 52 62 94 62, www.embassyofireland.lt. J ISRAELQH‑6, Konstitucijos 7 (Europa Business Center), tel. (+370) 52 50 25 00, fax (+370) 52 50 25 55, www.embassies.gov.il. ITALYQJ‑7, Žvejų 14a, tel. (+370) 52 12 06 20, fax (+370) 52 12 04 05, www.ambvilnius.esteri.it. vilnius.inyourpocket.com