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Wrocław No. 43, September – December 2018

Modernism & Beyond: Wrocław’s 20th-Century Architecture p.6 Day trips

p.26

Contents

Wrocław

Feature Modernism & Beyond: Wrocław’s 20th-Century Architecture p.6

Modernist building at the corner of the Main Square and Plac Solny (E-5). | Photo by Paweł Czerwiński, courtesy of Unsplash

Arrival & Transport

Leisure

Basic History

Shopping

What’s On 18

Directory

Sightseeing

Hotels

Old Town Walking Tour 28 Ostrów Tumski 36 Centennial Hall & Surrounds 40 Wrocław’s Waterways 43 Jewish Wrocław 44 Gnomes 46 Museums 47

Cafés

Restaurants

Nightlife

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Maps & Indexes Old Town Map Ostrów Tumski Map Centennial Hall & Surrounds Map Listings Index Features Index City Map City Centre Map

28 36 41 98 99 100 102

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App September – December 2018

Foreword As we say a tearful goodbye to beach bars, beer gardens, and swimming spots and glide towards the cold of a Central European winter, there are new things to look forward to: the leaves turning, hot beer and hot chocolate in cosy cafes, and, eventually, the holiday season, with the craziness of Wrocław’s famous Christmas Market (p.20). In this issue, we encourage you to make the most of autumn by exploring more of Lower Silesia (see our day trips box on p.26), getting acquainted with Wrocław’s modernist architecture (p.6) and taking a river cruise (p.43) before the frost creeps in. Our other autumnal recommendations include enjoying the splendid foliage at the Japanese Garden (p.42) in October, and embracing November melancholy at the Jazztopad jazz festival (p.20); for more cultural events happening this fall (like the TIFF Photography Festival and the Game Music Festival) see our What’s On section starting on p.18 and our more extensive online list at iyp.me/wroclaw. As always, we hope you enjoy your time in this amazing city. Should you have any questions or comments, don’t hesitate to contact us via e-mail at poland@inyourpocket.com or on facebook, /WroclawInYourPocket. Happy exploring! Born in Upper Silesia, Janina Krzysiak spent her formative years outside of Philly, PA, before moving back to Poland to indulge her love for cheap air travel, walkable cities, and Eastern European nostalgia. Her favourite thing in Wrocław is the postmodernist monstrosity that is Solpol (p.10).

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

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COVER STORY This magical courtyard captured by photographer Zuza Gałczyńska (@amateurofpizza) is known as Neon Side Gallery, an outdoor collection of Soviet-era neons. Find it at ul. Ruska 46C (D-5), and turn to p.30 for more neon hunting ideas.

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 15,000 copies published 3 times per year Sales Consultant: Agata Urbanowicz (+48) 606 749 642 Events & Marketing: Martyna Karaś (+48) 882 079 723 Writer & Editor: Janina Krzysiak Events Editor: Jason Neale Research: Aleksandra Mańkut, Monika Jakubek Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Sedesowce, AKA the Toilet Seat Buildings (p.10). | Courtesy of the Municipality of Wrocław

Modernism & Beyond: Wrocław’s 20th-Century Architecture 6

Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Modernism & Beyond Lovers of modernist architecture will have a field day in Wrocław, a city which emerged from the turbulent 20th century with a rich patchwork of architectural patterns. What follows is a chronological rundown of the styles that shaped the city as we know it today.

PRE-WWII MODERNISM As elsewhere in German-speaking Europe and beyond, modernism in architecture took off following WWI. The local flavours were primarily expressionism (a style related to art deco) and Neues Bauen, also known as New Objectivity. Innovative building methods, especially the use of prefabricated elements, made construction cheap and fast, allowing authorities to combat overcrowding by efficiently constructing a series of suburban housing estates on the outskirts of Wrocław (then Breslau). The best-known example of pre-WWII modernism, however, comes from even earlier: it is unquestionably the UNESCOlisted Centennial Hall (p.40, dating back to 1908. Other modernist creations can be found right on the main square (no. 9-11) and Plac Solny (no. 2-3). KAMELEON DEPARTMENT STORE A gorgeous example of 1920’s expressionism, the Kameleon - originally known as Kaufhaus Rudolf Petersdorff - was designed by Erich Mendelsohn, responsible also for the Einstein Tower in Potsdam and the Mossehaus in Berlin. Completed in 1928, the department store was Photo by Volens nolens kraplak, one of the first buildings CC BY-SA 3.0 in Wrocław to have a steel frame.QF‑5, ul. Szewska 6/7. RENOMA When completed in 1930, this consumer showpiece represented interwar Wrocław’s prosperity and splendour: a towering monument of European modernism, Renoma was the largest, most cuttingedge department store in this part of the continent selling high quality goods unavailable elsewhere. Designed by Berlin architect Hermann Dernburg, and initially known as ‘Wertheim’s’ after the Berlin family that owned the company, this flagship store was kitted out with all manner of elegant fittings including the ceramic tiles and gilded heads and flowers of the facade, the four enormous chandeliers affixed to the glass roof of the interior courtyards, floors of African rose wood and a fifth and sixth floor restaurant finished in Makassar ebony, which opened onto terraces overlooking the city.QE‑7, ul. Świdnicka 40, tel. (+48) 605 11 95 08, www.renoma-wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. iyp.me/polandblog

SĘPOLNO Originally known as Zimpel, this ‘model housing estate’ was designed by Paul Heim, Hermann Wahlich, and Albert Kempter in the international style and built in the years 1919–1935. The treeCourtesy of dolnyslask.org lined avenues and neat two-storey houses are unremarkable in themselves, but the street plan is completely unique: when viewed from above at just the right angle, the strange network of streets resembles an eagle. Discussion still continues as to whether the eagle is from the German or Lower Silesian coat of arms, what the architects’ motivation could have been, or whether there is any eagle at all. To see this place from the ground, you can take tram no. 9 or 17 from ‘Galeria Dominikańska’ to ‘Sępolno’.QJust east of P‑5. WUWA This rather run-down collection of buildings located just past the Centennial Hall is what remains of one of six model housing estates built by the Deutscher Werkbund in the late 1920s. Completed in just three months for the 1929 Wohnung und Werkraum Ausstellung (Living and Work Space Exhibition), the estate was meant to showcase new, more efficient building technologies and designs. The 32 structures were assembled from prefabricated elements on site, significantly lowering costs and shortening construction time. To demonstrate versatility, participating architects designed single-family homes, blocks of flats, a hostel ‘for singles and childless couples’ (ul. Kopernika 9, O-6), and even a preschool (ul. Wróblewskiego 18, O-7), which had to be rebuilt after burning down in a 2006 fire. While today the historical housing development might be underwhelming to all but the most hardcore architecture geeks, it is finally getting a long-overdue facelift. Expect to find a bit of a construction site when you visit and pardon the dust. Handy maps and more detailed information can be found at www.wuwa.eu. Get here by taking tram no. 10 from ‘Rynek’ or 4 from ‘Galeria Dominikańska’ to ‘Tramwajowa’ or just walking from Centennial Hall. QP‑7, ul. Wróblewskiego, ul. Tramwajowa, ul. Dembowskiego, ul. Zielonego Dębu, ul. Kopernika, www.wuwa.eu.

WUWA

September – December 2018

Modernism & Beyond NAZI ARCHITECTURE The Nazis certainly had a flare for castles and neoclassicism. With Breslau a major stronghold of the Third Reich during WWII, traces of the city’s Nazi past are still very much in the open - a fact that some Wroclavians, and most visitors, don’t even realize. LOWER SILESIAN PROVINCIAL OFFICE

weren’t merely functional, they were also very fine pieces of architecture and managed to escape nearly unscathed from the Siege of Breslau. This cylindrical specimen now acts as the Wrocław Contemporary Museum (p.50), while a similarly well-conserved shelter at the corner of ul.Grabiszyńska and ul. Stalowa houses the city’s archives. QPl. Strzegomski 2A (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. U

SOCIALIST REALISM

Photo by Wierszoklet, CC BY-SA 4.0

With no pre-existing classicist castle to make their home, Breslau’s authorities had to built their own headquarters, which they did in grandiose style, right on the river. This sprawling structure, supposedly modelled after Die Neue Reichskanzlei, Hitler’s Berlin crib, was built throughout WWII (from 1939 all the way to 1945) according to the design of Felix Bräuler. Felix himself used plans made by Alexander Müller and Ferdinand Schmidt in the 1920’s, which had been scrapped at the time due to financial problems. The building was never completed by its original builders - with the front line advancing, they had to abandon construction before the brick walls could be plastered. After the war, Polish authorities fixed up and finished the structure, damaged in bombings during the Siege of Breslau, and turned it into the Lower Silesian Provincial Office, which it remains to this day. QAl. Armii Krajowej 54. WROCŁAW CONTEMPORARY MUSEUM During the first half of WWII, the Nazis built a number of above-ground air raid shelters in Wro. Designed by Richard Konwiarz, who assisted Max Berg with designing the Centennial Hall some thirty years prior, the bunkers

Definitely not modernist, the state-sanctioned architectural style of the Stalinist period was monumental and strongly inspired by classicism, with a goal of building ‘palaces for the people’. Since most of the rebuilding efforts in early post-war years focused on Warsaw (in fact, bricks collected from Wrocław ruins were shipped over to build new homes in the capital), Wrocław didn’t see much construction in this style - with one significant exception. KOŚCIUSZKO SQUARE

Photo by Barbara Maliszewska, CC BY-SA 3.0 PL

The most prominent example of socialist realist architecture in Wrocław is Kościuszko Square and its immediate surrounds, called the Kościuszko Housing District (Kościuszkowska Dzielnica Mieszkaniowa). Modelled on the Marszałkowski Housing District built in Warsaw in 19501952, the estate was capable of housing 4000 people and even included a few shops, a restaurant, and a cafe - not something to be taken for granted in communist Poland. Construction started in 1954 and concluded four years later, by which time the Stalinist era was over, and socialist realism was no longer the preferred architectural style. QE‑7.

POST-WWII MODERNISM

Wrocław Contemporary Museum

The Stalinist era in Poland came to an end in 1956, three years after the Soviet dictator’s death. What followed was a political thaw that saw the very practical modernism previously ideologically suspect, having originated in the ‘rotten West’ - promoted to the new official architectural style of the People’s Republic. The communist version of modernism was characterized by a notoriously poor quality of materials and workmanship. To see the many blocks of flats constructed during this time doesn’t require any

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Elegant interior, modern open kitchen, tasting menu. Here is a brief description of the Acquario restaurant located on the sixth ďŹ&#x201A;oor of the Monopol Hotel. It is a perfect place for rest and meetings with friends overlooking the panorama of historic Wroclaw. Monopol Wroclaw Hotel 2 Modrzejewskiej Street, WrocĹ&#x201A;aw ristorante.wroclaw@hotel.com.pl + 48 71 77 23 777

www.lhr.com.pl

Modernism & Beyond special directions, and in fact will be unavoidable even if you stay within the confines of the of town (looking at you, ul. Wita Stwosza), so we skip listing any post-war housing estates. Instead, here’s a sprinkling of more flamboyant commie creations. TRZONOLINOWIEC Also known as wisielec (which can be interpreted as either ‘hanging building’ or ‘hanging man’, depending on how morbid you’re feeling that day), the ‘line-core building’ is a pretty odd construction. Its eleven hefty stories appear to float above street level thanks to a reinforced concrete core around which floors were suspended on steel cables - or at Photo by Piotr Karpiewski, least that was the original CC BY-SA 3.0 design. Seven years after the building’s completion, in 1974, the cables were encased in concrete and metal beams were added to the bottom of the building for rigidity - much to the dismay of architects Jacek Burzyński and Andrzej Skorupa. Though unusual, this building is not unique: similar structures include the former Central Bank building in Dublin and The Cube in Vancouver. QG‑8, ul. Tadeusza Kościuszki 72. DOLMED Cooky and futuristic enough to be featured in the 1978 Polish-Soviet sci-fi flick Inquest of Pilot Pirx (based on Stanisław Lem’s Tales of Pilot Pirx), the Dolmed building is closest in shape to the base of an inverted pyramid. Designed by the architect couple Anna Tarnawska and Jerzy Tarnawski, this medical centre was built in the years 1974-1977. Qul. Legnicka 40.

POSTMODERNISM Finally, the fall of communism in 1989 unleashed a flurry of whimsical, colourful, kitschy endeavours, as Poles frantically tried to distance themselves from the grayness of communist yesteryear. The two best remnants of this frenzied era are actually both in the very centre of Wrocław. Enjoy: SOLPOL Designed by Wojciech Jarząbek during a single, intensive 120hr period in 1992, this ‘scaled-up 1990s ice-cream parlour’ (as architect Aleksandra Wasilkowska put it) is an adventure in wonky shapes and flamboyant colour whose existence can only be explained by early post-communist Poland’s insatiable yearning for colour and novelty. Originally filled with retailers, Solpol fell out of favour with Wroclavians as swanky shopping malls started popping up in the city. Despite periodically made announcements that the building is to be finally put out of its misery by the unlucky owner, attempts have been made to get the now-empty structure onto the Polish register of objects of cultural heritage as a testament to the transitional period of early 90s Poland.QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 21-23. SZEWSKA CENTRUM

SEDESOWCE (TOILET SEAT BUILDINGS) While the avant-garde windows of these six blocks of flats do in fact resemble toilet seats (a fact mocked mercilessly by locals), this estate is actually a strikingly beautiful example of modernist/brutalist architecture. Designed by Jadwiga Grabowska-Hawrylak, the buildings were completed in 1973. That's them on p.6.QK‑5, Pl. Grunwaldzki 4-20, ul. Curie-Skłodowskiej 15.

Dolmed

10 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Glorious. This is a throwback to times when literally anything went, and no one as much as batted an eyelid over attaching an asymmetric, spiky, crown-shaped tower to an office building - in the historical centre, no less. This wonder of post-communist architecture was designed by Stefan Müller and built in the years 19961999; you can see the top of its whimsical spikes from numerous vantage points in the Old Town, which is probably just what the architect intended. Useful tip: the building also functions as a nice multilevel car park. QE‑6, ul. Szewska 3A. iyp.me/wroclaw

Arrival & Transport

Inside the main train station | Courtesy of the Municipality of Wrocław

Served by its own airport (with a new 3-storey terminal) only 13km from the city centre, a gorgeous, recentlymodernised train station and one of the country’s best highways connecting it to Berlin to the west and Kraków to the east, it’s never been easier to get to or from Wrocław. Several trains depart to Germany and the Czech Republic each day, the city is a hub for Polski Bus, and it also boasts a comprehensive and easy-to-use tram system. In this section you’ll find all you’ll need to know about getting to and getting around Wrocław.

BY TRAIN Wrocław is well-designed for train travel, boasting a gloriously renovated main train station that was at one time the largest in Europe. Fully modernised in 2012 before the Euro Cup, today Wrocław’s Dworzec Główny is arguably the nicest train station in Poland, making a wonderful impression on all those who arrive via the rails. Located about 1.5km south of the market square, from here it is possible to catch quick domestic connections to Kraków (3.5hrs), Warsaw (4hrs), and Poznań (2.5hrs), but international destinations like Berlin and Prague usually require a changing of trains. Miłej podróży! WROCŁAW MAIN TRAIN STATION The beneficiary of a massive modernisation project, Wrocław’s main train station has never looked better. Completed in 1857, this grandiose Neo-Gothic building, with its decadent exterior of turrets and crenellations, looks more like a storybook palace than a modern transportation hub. Just south of the Old Town, Wrocław Główny is 12 Wrocław In Your Pocket

preceded by a public square dotted with benches and two playful fountains flanking the front entrance. Inside, all the elegant architectural details of the original design have been brought back to life, while new digital displays give you all the arrival and departure info you need. Modernised to be completely handicap accessible, there are even handy conveyors to put your luggage on if you chose the stairs. Other amenities include 24-hour ticket windows, automated ticket machines inside and out, an information desk (open 08:00 - 20:00), lockers and a left luggage service, ATMs (bankomat), currency exchange offices (kantor), comfortable waiting rooms, and a plethora of shops, restaurants, and cafes. Overall it adds up to the most convenient, comfortable, and easy to navigate train station in Poland. Visit the Polish railways website at rozklad.pkp.pl – which has limited but effective English language functionality – to check the departure times ahead of travelling, and the large digital display board in the station for the number of the platform (peron). As for getting into town, you are basically in it, with most of the city’s hotels and hostels within 20mins walking distance. You can take a tram two stops north to Galeria Dominikańska to get a bit closer to the market square (head west from there), or hop in one of the taxis waiting of front of both station entrances.QG‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 105, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www. rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00. iyp.me/wroclaw

Arrival & Transport BY PLANE WROCŁAW AIRPORT Wrocław’s modern airport does a fine job of ushering people in and out of the city. Just 13km west of the city centre, you should be through passport control and baggage claim rather quickly, at which stage you will probably start thinking about local cash. We recommend using an ATM (‘bankomat’) as the airport’s currency exchange desk offers what we might politely call ‘NOT the best exchange rates in town.’ At the airport you’ll also find press stores, tourist and airport information desks, a restaurant, bars, and a coffee shop. At the moment the most sensible way to get to the centre appears to be via the WRO Airport Express shuttle bus, which runs every 50 minutes or so (with a break between 01:00 and 4:10) and will take you to the main train station with just one stop at Plac Grunwaldzki (K-5) on the way. The journey time is 30mins and the 10zł ticket can be purchased directly from the driver (cash or card) or at the 24h International Travel Desk. Alternatively, save a few złoty and go via bus 106, which runs roughly every 15mins between 05:30 and 23:30 from the airport to the main train station (Dworcowa stop, G-8), with central stops also at Pl. Orląt Lwowskich (C-5/6) and Renoma (E/F-7). Night bus 206 departs the airport for the centre at 00:07, 00:37, 02:07, 03:33 (get off at ‘Kwiska’ and change to bus 253 - it stops some 130 metres down the road from where you’ll get off ), and 04:33 (change to 149 at ‘Nowy Dwór’). However, the bus schedule is subject to change, so make it easy for yourself by using the website wroclaw.jakdojade. pl to plan your trip. Bus tickets cost 3.40zl during the day, 3.60zł at night, and can be bought from the press store inside the terminal building or from the machine next to the bus stop. The journey takes 30-40mins.

If you prefer to go directly to your hotel doorstep, you can jump into one of the taxis sitting outside the terminal and expect a 20min ride to the centre. Pick-ups are restricted to three vetted firms (but others are waiting nearby): EcoCar (tel. 12 345 67 89), Taxi Plus (tel. 601 70 07 53) and Partner Taxi (tel. 71 196 27). The tariffs are similar, but Partner Taxi seem to have the best rates: about 60zł weekdays, 70-80zł weekends. For live arrival and departure information call the number given or visit the airport’s excellent website.Qul. Graniczna 190 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 358 14 10, www.airport. wroclaw.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Arrival & Transport BY BUS

BY CAR

A stop on the Eurolines international coach network, Wrocław is also a hub for Polski Bus (polskibus.com), with regular connections to Kraków, Prague, Łódź, and Warsaw.

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic, and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads, and God speed.

WROCŁAW BUS STATION Finally, after several years of reliving the Eastern European ‘wild wild 90’s’ at the temporary bus station down the road, visitors to Wrocław can arrive at a simple but sleek underground terminal meeting all 21st century standards. Those who remember the previous iteration of the station, described by previous editors as ‘grim and uncouth’ and ‘an unofficial day care centre for drunks and lunatics,’ and dubbed by one of our readers as ‘the cesspool of Wrocław,’ can rest assured that the new ‘dworzec’ is nothing like that; it’s clean, organised, handicapped-accessible, and you’ll find functioning departure and arrival displays, bus schedules, lifts, and lockers within easy reach. Ticket windows are open from 6:00 until 22:00, but the International Travel Desk is open 24/7 and will sell domestic and international tickets to you during the night hours; keep in mind that for most domestic routes you can simply purchase your ticket from the bus driver (FlixBus and NeoBus are a notable exception). Best of all, the nearest exit spits you out directly opposite the back entrance of the main train station, making for a nice, functional transportation hub. Of course, no 21st century train or bus station in Poland can be complete without a shopping centre attempting to gobble it up, and this one is no different; you’ll find the station encased in Wrocław’s newest shopping behemoth, Wroclavia. This situation is not without its advantages, since the upstairs food court is a welcome step-up from the shady eateries offered by the main train station (and is a heck of a lot closer than city centre, convenient for travellers waiting for a connection). However, one major thing detracts from viewing the mall’s presence as benign: travellers are essentially forced to walk through it to get to the ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ tram/bus stop on ul. Borowska, from which public transportation departs towards the Old Town; a bit of a jerk move, if you ask us. Once you’ve fought off the shopping temptations and made it to the stop, getting to city centre is easy: tram 15, running every 10 minutes or so, will take you to the ‘Rynek’ stop, as will bus K. During the night, buses 245 and 247 run about once per 20 minutes, and you can also catch buses 243 and 253 leaving from a second ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ stop between the bus station and the train station (ul. Sucha). Confusing, we know - to make it easier, you can use the wroclaw.jakdojade.pl website or jakdojade app to plan your journey. All in all, you should have no trouble getting to city centre even during the dead of night.QF‑9, ul. Sucha 1/11. U

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The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways, and 140km/ hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker, and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk, Australia and America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this has never been a problem for anyone we know). One of the only major highways in the country, the A4 connects Wrocław with Berlin (via Legnica) and Kraków (via Opole and Katowice). Much of Wrocław’s centre is pedestrianised, and one-way and permit-only streets only help to make driving in the centre an absolute nightmare. Poor planning and limited traffic patterns mean congestion is a major, major problem as well; call a cab and it might take as much as twenty minutes to get to you, though it’s only a few blocks away. As such, we suggest you ditch your vehicle at the first opportunity, which raises the question of where to put it. Parking lots are marked on the map in the back of our print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent, though some hotels have limited parking spaces; check when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket machines; in the city centre it’s 3zł for the first hour, 3.60zł for the second hour, and 4.30zł for the third. Thereafter you’ll be forking out 3 zeds an hour. 24HR PARKING Monitored parking for cars and buses near the Racławice Panorama.QH‑5, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 728 97 90 70. MARBER GUARDED PARKING A six-level parking garage with about 250 spaces near Arkady Wrocławskie shopping mall, not far from the train station.QD‑8, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 5/7. iyp.me/wroclaw

Arrival & Transport PUBLIC TRANSPORT Wrocław’s public transport system is easy to use and fairly extensive, with 120 bus lines and 23 tram lines. You’ll rarely need trams or buses to get around the Old Town, but many affordable hotels and some sights (like Centennial Hall) are located outside the centre. Major hubs for trams and buses include the main train station (G-8), Pl. Dominikański (G5), and Pl. Jana Pawła II (D-5). Buses and trams run roughly from 04:00 to 24:00, with night buses running less frequently after that. Tourists should have no trouble using the English option on the ticket machines now stationed at most transit stops and on all trams and buses. Note, however, that while ticket machines at transit stops accept coins and cash, those on board trams and buses only take plastic. A single fare ticket is 3zł, but be aware that night buses cost 3.20zł. ISIC or other nonPolish student IDs are valid for a significant student discount, but you must carry your ID. Most importantly, remember that tickets are not valid until you stamp them once inside the tram or bus. Sneaky plainclothed inspectors regularly travel the lines handing out hefty fines to those without valid tickets; being a foreigner will not excuse you, it will only mean you’ll have to pay in cash on the spot. Schedules posted at each stop tend to be right on the money. ‘W dni robocze’ means Monday through Friday and ‘W dni wolne’ means Saturday and Sunday. For route planning, check out the super helpful website www. wroclaw.jakdojade.pl.

TAXIS LUX TAXI Comfortable and reliable, Lux Taxi prides itself on its competitive rates, clean cars and wellmannered drivers, all of whom purportedly speak either English or German. 6-8 person taxi vans are available, and you can conveniently pay by credit card.Qtel. (+48) 71 196 23, www.luxradiotaxi.pl. PARTNER TAXI Operating clean, recognisable cars of the same distinctive make (Volkswagen Passats or Skoda Superbs), from Partner you can request an Englishspeaking driver or carseat for your child, and when you’ve blown all your cash at the bar you can pay with a credit card to get home.Qtel. (+48) 71 196 27, www.partner-taxi.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

TRANSPORT APP JAKDOJADE: Despite the fact that Wrocław’s tram and bus network is easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the wroclaw.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a great tool for advance planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop, and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth making room on your phone for.

CAR RENTAL AVIS Reliable, internationally trusted and with solid customer service, Avis offers a range of vehicles from sedans to minivans. They also have a desk at the airport (Mon-Fri 8:0024:00, Sat 10:00-18:00), where you can show up without a prior arrangement.QE‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 49-57 (Scandic Hotel), tel. (+48) 693 56 02 89, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun open by prior arrangement. VOZILLA Now you can be environmentally friendly while cruising around in your holiday rental car - Vozilla is Wrocław’s first electric car sharing company! Available since November 2017, Vozilla’s fleet now comprises some 200 Nissan Leafs (Leaves?) and 10 electric vans. To try out your own, download the Vozilla app and register in the system, or go through the vozilla.pl website; you will receive information about vehicles available in your area. No keys are required, the app will do its techie magic. The car rentals are short-term; after you’ve reached your destination, park your car anywhere legal, and Vozilla employees will take care of the rest. Major advantages include the ability to park for free at Wrocław Airport’s VIP parking lot (steps away from the terminal), utilise 200 Vozilla-only parking spaces around the city (look for green paint), and drive in bus lanes. And, of course, you get to pat yourself on the back for not contributing to the city’s air pollution. Win!Qwww. vozilla.pl. 1zł per minute, or 0.10zł while stopped. September – December 2018

Basic History Wrocław has always been the dominant capital of Silesia, a region whose story begins with the establishment of a stronghold along the Amber Road and Via Regia trading routes on what is today Ostrów Tumski (p.38) by the Slavic Ślężanie tribe in the 8th century. Absorbed into Czech Bohemia, the expanding fortress was first recorded in the 10th century under the name ‘Vratislavia,’ thought to be derived from the name of the Bohemian duke Vratislav I. In 990, however, the Piast duke Mieszko I conquered the region and by 1000AD the city had expanded to 1,000 inhabitants, prompting Polish king Bolesław I to establish Silesia’s first bishopric on the site of today’s Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (p.39). Over the next century, religious and political conflict saw the region pass back forth between Poland and Bohemia numerous times, before finding some stability under the Silesian Piast dynasty who ruled the area during the so called ‘Age of Fragmentation’ (1138-1320) when Poland was divided into autonomous principalities. A Mongol raid in 1241 devastated the city, but it was rebuilt under Magdeburg Law with city planners expanding it to incorporate many of the outlying settlements, shifting the city centre away from Ostrów Tumski (which became the city’s religious centre) to the other side of the river, building a moat and defensive walls around it, and laying out the market square (p.29) as it appears to this day. Settlers flocked to the city, and ethnic Germans soon became the most dominant demographic. The Piast line petered out in 1335 when Duke Henryk VI died without an heir and earlier treaties dictated the transfer of the region to Bohemian rule once again. Under the Luxemburg dynasty the city generally prospered, but the dominance of the merchant class, which controlled the Town Council, lead to strife with the church and lower classes resulting in outright revolt in 1418 when guildsmen stormed the Town Hall and beheaded the mayor. Printing with movable type began in 1475, with many variations of the city’s name appearing, including Wretslav, Wratislav, Prezzla, Presslay, and Bresslau. By 1526 - when Bohemian King Louis Jagiellon’s death ended prolonged fighting over Bohemian succession and transferred the city to the Austrian Habsburg dynasty - the Reformation had reached the Silesian capital and Protestantism had become the dominant religion. During the Thirty Years War (1618-48), the city fought to maintain its Protestantism, and though occupied, eluded physical destruction, emerging from the conflict as one of the only Silesian cities to remain Protestant under Habsburg rule. However plague and war had taken their toll on the population, cutting it in half. During the Counterreformation, many Catholic orders were encouraged by the emperor to settle in Silesia’s capital, including the Jesuits who founded the Wrocław Jesuit Academy in 1702, which would later grow into today’s Wrocław University (p.32). 16 Wrocław In Your Pocket

During the War of Austrian Succession, the Kingdom of Prussia laid claim to much of Silesia and Prussian troops entered what was then known as ‘Breslau’ without a conflict in 1741. Though heavily taxed and having lost the self-rule the city had enjoyed since the Middle Ages, Protestants could now express their faith freely in the new kingdom and Prussian authorities allowed for the establishment of a Jewish community. After the demise of the Holy Roman Empire, Breslau capitulated to Napoleon’s army in 1807; led by King Frederick III of Prussia - who lived in Breslau - the city was the centre of the liberation movement against Napoleonic rule. The tearing down of Breslau’s defensive fortifications by the French allowed the city to begin expanding and state reforms helped it prosper in the 19th century as it grew into a major administrative, ecclesiastical, military, industrial and science centre. Over the course of the century the population increased 8-fold (including the third largest Jewish population in Germany) and Breslau grew into the second largest city in Prussia; when the German Empire was consolidated in 1871, Breslau entered as the third largest city after Berlin and Hamburg. The construction of the Centennial Hall (p.40) in 1913 perhaps best represents the ambition and achievement of this part of the city’s history. By being behind the frontlines of WWI, Breslau avoided damage and was even able to recover quickly from the economic impoverishment that came with the end of the conflict. In 1930 it was chosen to host the ‘Deutsche Kampfspiele’ - a showcase of German athletics after Germany was banned from the Olympic Games. The Nazi Party developed one of its largest support bases in Breslau, which played a large role in voting them to power in 1933. In 1938 state-organised persecution against the city’s minorities, particularly Poles and Jews, began in earnest and those who did not escape were killed or sent to the network of concentration and forced labour camps set up around Breslau, where many would die later. Safely removed from the frontlines of WWII, Breslau became a haven for refugees and its population swelled to close to one million. In August 1944, with the Soviet Army approaching, the city was declared ‘Festung Breslau’ - a closed fortress to be held at all costs. When Nazi Commander Karl Hanke lifted a ban on the evacuation of civilians in January 1945 it was too late: railway connections had been destroyed or were overcrowded and tens of thousands froze to death in minus 20 degree ice storms. Some 200,000 civilians remained in the city as the Soviet siege began in February; the Siege of Breslau lasted 82 days before capitulation occurred on May 6th, 1945. It was one of the last German cities to fall, outlasting Berlin by four days and the war in Europe officially ended only two days after Breslau’s defeat. 50% of the Old Town was in ruin and the western and southern suburbs were 90% obliterated. Tens of thousands had died defending it. Under the terms of the Potsdam Conference, Lower Silesia passed to Poland and its largest city became known as ‘Wrocław.’ Poles began arriving immediately as forced deportations from Eastern Polish lands annexed by the iyp.me/wroclaw

Basic History HISTORICAL TIMELINE

WWII destruction

Soviet Union and the forced expulsion of Wrocław’s German population took place simultaneously, leading to a huge influx of Eastern Poles into Wrocław, particularly from Lwów (now Lviv, Ukraine); Polish cultural treasures from Lwów came with them including the Fredo monument on the market square, the Racławice Panorama painting (p.48) and the collection of the Ossolineum library (p.32. A long period of reconstruction followed, characterised equally by Polonisation and de-Germanisation; all German monuments and inscriptions were removed and Wrocław’s non-Jewish cemeteries were destroyed. At the same time Sovietisation was also beginning: businesses were nationalised, Polish political and religious leaders were imprisoned and following rigged elections the full communist takeover of Poland was complete by 1948. The Communist authorities took full credit for restoring Lower Silesia and boasted of their success rebuilding the city and incorporating it into the Soviet system; this was typified by Wrocław’s hosting of the propaganda parade known as the Recovered Territories Exhibition in 1948. By the late 1950s Wrocław had returned to its former population level and established itself as one of Poland’s main urban, economic, cultural and academic centres despite being hamstrung by the political and economic conditions of the People’s Republic of Poland. In August of 1980, Wrocław’s workers joined the general strike called by Gdańsk’s Solidarity Trade Union led by Lech Wałęsa. Martial law went into effect from 1981 to 1983, and Wrocław remained a centre of anti-Communist opposition throughout the 80s until Communism crumbled in 1989 and Wałęsa became Poland’s first freely elected president since WWII. In 1990, Wrocław’s first post Communist city council restored the city’s historical coat of arms, symbolising the city’s acceptance of its entire history (even the German bits). In July 1997 the city sustained the worst flooding in post-war Central Europe when the Odra River overflowed its banks leaving one third of the city under water. Poland joined the European Union in 2004 and Wrocław has emerged as one of the country’s leading cities, attracting significant foreign investment. The city was chosen to host matches during the 2012 European Football Championships and the 2017 World Games and was the 2016 ‘European Capital of Culture’. iyp.me/polandblog

990: Piast Duke Mieszko I seizes Silesia, incorporating it into Poland 1000: A bishopric is established on Ostrów Tumski 1163: The city becomes capital of the Duchy of Silesia 1241: Mongols devastate the city, the market square is laid out, Germans become the dominant ethnic group 1335: Silesia is incorporated into the Kingdom of Bohemia 1418: The city’s guilds revolt, beheading the mayor and six members of City Council 1453: John of Capistrano leads inquisition against Jewish population who are executed or forced to convert to Christianity 1526: The Austrian Habsburg dynasty absorbs Bohemia, including Silesia 1702: Founding of the Jesuit Academy, today’s Wrocław University 1741: Breslau becomes part of Prussia 1807: Napoleon captures the city and its medieval defences are destroyed 1871: Unification of the German Empire; Breslau enters as its third most prominent city 1913: The Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) is built 1933: The Nazis comes to power in Germany 1938: Kristallnacht - Jewish synagogues torched, homes looted and burned 1944: Festung Breslau - the city is declared a closed fortress and prepares for Soviet bombardment 1945: Breslau capitulates on May 6th, WWII ends and Lower Silesia becomes part of Poland 1947: Communists consolidate power after rigged elections 1948: Wrocław hosts the Recovered Territories Exhibition 1980: The Solidarity trade union initiates strikes across Poland 1981: The Polish military imposes Martial Law. Solidarity activists are arrested and interned 1983: Martial Law lifted 1989: First free post-war elections in PL 1997: The Odra and Oława rivers overflow flooding a third of downtown Wrocław 1999: Poland joins NATO 2004: Poland joins the EU 2010: President Lech Kaczyński and 95 other Polish delegates die in a plane crash near Smoleńsk, Russia 2012: Wrocław hosts the Euro 2012 Football Championships 2016: Wrocław is ‘European Capital of Culture’ September – December 2018

What’s On

Available at mia Art Gallery: Józef Hałas, Podział z poziomem, 102x125 cm, oil on canvas, 1974.

EVENTS BY DATE 06.09 - 16.09 » TIFF PHOTOGRAPHY FESTIVAL

The TIFF Festival was first held in 2011 and has been dedicated to photography of life in the city of Wrocław and the surrounding region. The context of the imagery has gained the festival a growing reach around the country and now includes works from all of Poland. This showcase of photography as art is one of the main goals of the festival as well as the organiser’s goals of expanding it to a global audience.QAdmission free, www.tiff.wroc.pl.

ART GALLERIES MIA ART GALLERY Mia is a bright and modern art gallery on Wrocław’s cultural map thanks to the “All That Art!” Foundation. The exhibitions here are constantly changing, with a new one opening every 2-3 weeks. The gallery also aims to connect art and business by hosting special lectures, training courses, and presentations.QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 601 30 22 55, www. miaartgallery.com. Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. 18 Wrocław In Your Pocket

27.09 20:00-23:00 » SON LUX

Son Lux is a the genre-free dream of Ryan Lott, a Los Angeles composer, co-created with two New Yorkers guitarist Rafiq Bhatia and drummer Ian Chang. Each of them is an author, producer, and performer with broad horizons and a passion for wild improvisation. This concert is part of their first tour in Poland. QConcert Center A2, ul. Góralska 5, www.cka2.pl. Tickets 99 zł.

05.10 - 07.10 » EKLEKTIK SESSION

Eklektik Session is a unique festival serving as an international platform for various artists and their works. The aim of the festival is to blur the boundaries of style. The festival has become one of Wrocław’s most important cultural events showcasing international and local artists from around the globe. This year’s focus is on architecture with the events taking place at historical points around the city. The festival will feature meetings with architects, designers, and art historians.QTicket prices vary depending on the event, www.eklektiksession.com.

06.10 15:00 » WROCŁAW EQUALITY PARADE

This will be the 10th time for this Wrocław street parade. A range of groups will be out to promote equality, freedom and tolerance as well as have a good time. The main participants tend to be from the LGBT community, their supporters, friends, family, and anyone who believes in equality for all. Be warned there is a large police iyp.me/wroclaw

What’s On presence at these events to protect participants from the occasional violent counter-protestor. However, these tend to be contained to simply offensive yelling and posters. QKultura Równości, ul. Kniaziewicza 28. Admission free.

07.10 - 16.10 » WRATISLAVIA CANTANS LIBERATION

This year marks the 53rd edition of the event has the theme of ‘Liberation’ which coincides with the 100th year anniversary of Polish regaining its independence. This year will include many works by famous Polish composers and will reflect on freedom and independence. The main attraction, of course, is the celebrate the great music prepared by Wratislavii Cantans. QE‑6, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 715 97 96, Tickets 5-350zł, www.nfm.wroclaw.pl/en.

26.10 - 27.10 » GAME MUSIC FESTIVAL

Gaming has evolved from Pong with a crudely drawn dot moving across the screen to modern cinematic films in the form of interactive entertainment. The storylines of many modern games rival the most highly funded Hollywood films. The other major aspect of games also includes the soundtrack. These musical additions to games include custom composed musical ensembles, unique song titles, and feature top world talent. The “Game Music Festival” will be a showcase of these masterpieces from the gaming world. QE‑6, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 715 97 96, www.nfm. wroclaw.pl/en. Ticket 69-149zł.

27.10 19:00, 28.10 18:00, 30.10 19:00, 30.11 19:00, 02.12 18:00 » GISELLE

A romantic story in which the real world collides with the world of phantoms, a beautiful peasant woman falls in love with a prince not knowing his true identity. When Giselle dies of a broken heart, she is summoned by a group of supernatural women to avenge her pain. The target is, of course, Giselle’s lover who she manages to save due to her never-ending love for the man. Adolphe Adam’s ballet is a typical romantic ballet that has a distinctive and easy to remember melodic motifs. The opera prepared by the Wrocław Opera prepared by the choreographic tandem of Ewa Głowacka and Zofia Rudnicka, was conceived as a classic position, cultivating the best traditions of ballet dance. QE‑6, Wrocław Opera, ul. Świdnicka 35, tel. (+48) 71 370 88 80, Tickets 50zł, www.opera.wroclaw.pl.

11.11 18:00, 17.11 » CRACOVIANS AND HIGHLANDERS

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30.09.2018 – 20.01.2019

mnwr.pl

Written during a turbulent time in Polish history, the father of Polish theatre penned an opera that was the model for Polish works that came after. Written partly as a record of the political situation during the end of the 18th century, a time when the cloud of partition hung over Poland, Kosciuszki had returned from fighting in America’s independence, and Kołłątaj was signing the first constitution, “Cracovians and Highlanders” by Wojciech Bogusławski and music composed by Jan Stefani is a timeless piece that still resonates with audiences today. QE‑6, Wrocław Opera, ul. Świdnicka 35, tel. (+48) 71 370 88 80, Tickets 40zł, www.opera.wroclaw.pl.

Power of nature Henry Moore in Poland September – December 2018

What’s On 15.11 18:00-22:00 » JMSN

The American singer-songwriter, record producer, as well as a multi-instrumentalist, music engineer, and mixer, JMSN will be making one stop of the Polish tour in Wrocław. The Detroit singer has collaborated with stars Kendrick Lamar, Kaytranada and The Game. His debut album Priscilla from 2012 made a lot of buzz in the alternative R’n’B environment, which resulted in proposals for cooperation with many recognizable artists.QD‑5, Bezsenność, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasaż Niepolda), tel. (+48) 570 66 95 70, Tickets 49zł.

17.11 16:00 » ONE LOVE SOUND FEST

As you might guess from the name, One Love is all about reggae (with a bit of hip hop, dancehall, and electronic music thrown in there as well); and it’is the biggest indoor reggae festival in Europe, as it gathers around ten thousand people a year at this point. The venue is the spacious Centennial Hall, and the artists come from all around the world, many from the heart of reggae music - Jamaica.QN‑6, Centennial Hall & Discovery Centre, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 51 50, Tickets 70120zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00)., www. onelove.pl.

23.11 - 31.12 » WROCŁAW CHRISTMAS MARKET

What’s On in Wroclaw? It’s all In Your Pocket

Wrocław boasts one of Poland’s best and largest Christmas markets, stretching across two sides of Wrocław’s market square, and subsequently extending down Oławska and Świdnicka Streets. It’s also one of the first such holiday markets in PL to open, typically in the third week of July, creating a festive atmosphere in the heart of the city doing a charming job of filling the city’s gift boxes and socks above the fireplace. The fair features a few amusement rides, mulled wine dispensaries, and the ‘Bajkowy Lasek’ (Fairy Tale Forest), where animatronic characters behind glass convey fairy tales to wide-eyed children, while one of their parents slips off to grab some hot wine and grilled ‘oscypek’ sheep cheese from the Polish mountains. A great way to start or end your Christmas shopping, and a fine alternative to the overcrowded shopping malls.QE‑5, Market Square, Admission free, www.jarmarkbozonarodzeniowy.com.

24.11 - 25.11 » JAZZTOPAD

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The Polish Jazz scene in recent times has exploded with homegrown talent gaining international fame. Jazz festivals are taking place all over the country with talent making appearances from around the world. One of these jazz showcases is Jazztopad which helps foster creative international partnerships insuring Polish artists get access to global audiences. This year’s event will include Sons of Kemet, Shabaki Hutchings, Jaimie Branch, Brad Mehldau, Avishai Cohen, Amir ElSaffar, Hamid Drake, Simon Barker, and Esperanza Spalding.QE‑6, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 715 97 96, Tickets 50-210zł. Available at www.bilety.nfm.wroclaw.pl and box office., www.nfm.wroclaw.pl. iyp.me/wroclaw

What’s On 12.12 20:00-23:00 » THE BEST OF KORA & MAANAM

With the recent passing of the beloved Polish singer Kora, a tribute show to her music and life will take place in the Gothic hall of the Old Monastery. With hits “Divine Buenos”, “Cicadas on the Cyclades”, “I stand, I stand ...”, “Krakow Spleen” and many other songs from her repertoire will be performed by musicians from Wrocław. QG‑5, Stary Klasztor, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519 89 47 69, Tickets 35-50 zł.

14.12 19:00, 15.12 19:00, 16.12 18:00, 18.12 11:00 » HALKA

If you’re planning on visiting the opera during your stay in Poland, we recommend going for something authentically Polish - in this case, Halka, an 1848 opera by composer Stanisław Moniuszko, with a libretto by poet Włodzimierz Wolski. A tale about the tragic love of highlander girl Halka’s love for noble-born Janusz, it depicts scenes of 19th-century Polish highlanders and nobility.QE‑6, Wrocław Opera, ul. Świdnicka 35, tel. (+48) 71 370 88 80, Tickets from 50zł. Available at Wrocław Opera box office (Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00)., www.opera.wroclaw.pl.

22.12 » MOSCOW CITY BALLET: ROMEO AND JULIET

Many of us are undoubtedly familiar with Shakespeare’s play and Sergei Prokofiev’s ballet. What we aren’t familiar with, however, is choreographer Krzysztof Pastor’s unique take on the work, updated for the capricious and rapid developments of the 20th century. Pastor brings Romeo & Juliet out of 1300s Verona and into 1900s Rome, but time and setting only serve as backdrops to important and difficult issues of politics, including war, terror, and dictatorship. Doomed love has never been more complicated.QE‑6, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 715 97 96, Tickets 125-175zł, www.makroconcert.com/pl.

RECURRING EVENTS PARKRUN

Are hangovers and running a 5K route on a Saturday morning mutually exclusive? Given Poland’s vibrant party scene and high alcohol consumption rates, events like this make us wonder if it’s all the same people—or if there’s a whole separate population of super healthy marathon runners living amongst us that only come out bright and early in the mornings, and then go back into hiding in the later hours of the day. Regardless of which category you fall into, you can stretch your running skills—this free event is open to people of all levels.QFree entry, www.parkrun. pl/wroclaw. Every Saturday.

S E A S O N PREMIERES OPERA GALA

Giuseppe Verdi NABUCCO Adolphe Adam GISELLE Stanisław Moniuszko HALKA NEW YEAR’S EVE GALA

Wolfgang A. Mozart DON GIOVANNI Stanisław Moniuszko PHANTOMS Charles Gounod FAUST Igor Strawiński CARD GAME THE RITE OF SPRING HALKA JONTEK’S REVENGE Silent film with live music and concert Stanisław Moniuszko SONGBOOK FOR HOME USE Gaetano Donizetti LA FIGLIA DEL REGGIMENTO Concert performance PREMIERE Zygmunt Krauze YEMAYA - QUEEN OF THE SEAS Performance for families SUPERPRODUCTION Giuseppe Verdi LA TRAVIATA BALLET GALA

REPERTOIRE PERFORMANCES La Bohéme, Boris Godunov, The Bravest Knight, Candide, Carmen, The Carnival of the Animals, La Cenerentola, Les contes d’Hoffmann, Coppélia, Cracovians and Highlanders, Eufolia / Ambulo, Eugene Onegin, Femme fatale, Fidelio, Fiddler on the Roof, Flea the Swindler, Die Fledermaus, I Capuleti e i Montecchi, Il Trovatore, In the Land of the Magic Flute, King Roger, Madame Butterfly, The Nutcracker, Orpheus and Eurydice, The Pearl Fishers, Polish Evening, Requiem in D minor, Romeo and Juliet, Sid - the Serpent Who Wanted to Sing, Thinking About the Fatherlan, Via crucis

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September – December 2018

What’s On WROCŁAW BAZAAR OF GOURMETS

Every Sunday the Browar Mieszczański Wrocław brewery turns into a noisy market hall full of local, regional and foreign rarities. The Wrocław Bazaar of Gourmets is a place where you can fill your basket with delicious and healthy products, from traditional products to those that are rare or still unavailable on the Polish market. If you like the search for the perfect treat, these markets will provide the gastronomic excursion your stomach will appreciate. QH‑10, Browar Mieszczański, ul. Hubska 44, Admission free, www.bazarsmakoszy.com/. Every Sunday.

EXHIBITIONS 23.03 - 30.09 » DALI WARHOL

17.11.2018

WROCŁAW CENTENNIAL HALL

Unpredictable. Loud. Controversial. Eccentric. Polarising. These are exactly the defining qualities that made iconic and influential artists Salvador Dalí and Andy Warhol into household names—love them or hate them, but you can’t deny the importance of these artistic figures in the early 20th century. Both these artists pushed the boundaries between art and the real world, and influenced the spheres of pop culture as defined by music, film, fashion, and the trends that cascaded between them and our visual world. How this much personality can be contained in four walls is beyond us, but in the name of art—this exhibit is surely a must-see. QA‑4, The Henryk Tomaszewski Museum of Theather, Plac Wolności 7A, tel. (+48) 793 80 44 12, Tickets 40/30 zl, www.daliwarhol.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

26.06 - 16.09 » BEDROOM REVOLUTION. BEDS IN THE 19TH CENTURY

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After a long day at work, feeding the kids, cleaning the mess, nothing like having the time to lie in bed. It’s the moment many parents look forward too. There was a time when that action was as revolutionary as sitting in a self driving car. The National Museum will show us the furniture that was introduced during the time of this great revelation of personal space. It will have examples of wide matrimonial beds, and various bedroom specific furniture from the beginning of its production. For our comfortable night’s sleep we owe a great deal of gratitude to these innovators of the 19th century.QI‑5, National Museum, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50, Tickets 10/5 zł, www.en.mnwr.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

19.05 - 02.09 » WEDDINGS 21

The path to wedding day is filled with choices, plans, disagreements, second guesses, and payments. “Wedding 21” will inspect this journey. In 2009-2014 the Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum of Kraków conducted research on the contemporary form of wedding rituals. The narrative was constructed with stories by participants and observers through film, sound, and photographic materials. If you’re planning a wedding and want a look into the experiences you might face, or to compare your 22 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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What’s On own memories, this might be the exhibit for you. QJ‑8, Ethnographic Museum, ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13, Admission 10/8zł, children under 7 free., www.muzeumetnograficzne.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.

03.08 - 06.10 » EMPHATY, NOW!

Empathic design is the ability to observe consumers and create designs based on the user’s feelings of a product. This, in theory, will result in a product that will have market success. This method has even moved on from consumer goods to products such as financial services. At the exhibition “Empathy, now” ideas will be showcased that can help create better solutions for more than 65 million migrants and refugees, forced to leave their homes, which are now more numerous than after the Second World War. QF‑5, BWA Gallery of Design, ul. Świdnicka 2-4, tel. (+48) 71 790 11 93, Admission free. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

09.12 - 31.10 » SPIRITS OF THE FOREST: INTERACTIVE EXHIBITION

Nothing holds within itself such equal parts of allure and fear—the two polarities on the spectrum of mystery—as a forest. Many of us dare not pass through one after dark; with its unfamiliar sounds, gnarling and winding branches and vines, unmarked and untrodden paths that could lead us just about anywhere, and camouflaging elements and patterns that are engineered to suggest danger in places where there may not be any. Wandering through a forest is at once embarking on a risk into the unknown, and also—a relaxing, spiritually lifting and cleansing experience. As our urban areas expand and forested areas slowly diminish, this exhibit serves as a reminder to feed our need for aesthetics and allow our senses a moment of much-needed downtime. Much like the soothing and awe-inspiring effects of nature, contemporary art also provides us with a welcome escape from our urban routines and dwellings—here’s your chance to get them both in one place.QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski 2A (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, Admission free, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.

10.05 - 26.08 » LEON TARASEWICZ

The exhibition will display the evolution of works by Leon Tarasewicz, from his graduation of the Warsaw Academy of Fine Arts in 1984, through the presentation of large-format paintings during the 1980s and 1990s, to the recently created examples of spatial compositions. He paints on large canvas, annexes walls, floors, and elements of existing architecture. The exhibition will include works from collections of the National Museum in Wroclaw, the Zachęta Gallery in Warsaw, the Arsenał Gallery in Bialystok, the Upper Silesian Museum in Bytom, as well as private collections of Leon Tarasewicz.QH‑5, Architecture Museum, ul. Bernardyńska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78, Tickets 10/7zł. Children under 3 free., www.ma.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

The Market Square | © velishchuk, Dollar Photo Club

Wrocław Sightseeing From ancient architecture to modish murals and Soviet-era neons, Wrocław has it all and more; so put that drink down and go discover all there is to see and do in this incredible city.

Sightseeing Of all the cities in Poland, Wrocław possesses perhaps the most convoluted and turbulent history. Known under dozens of different names as it was passed repeatedly between four countries (and the numerous kingdoms that preceded them), Wrocław was one of the most culturally and architecturally diverse cities in Central Europe before being reduced to rubble a mere 70-odd years ago. As the city proudly and painstakingly rebuilt itself, the post-war period saw a new wave of migrants from today’s western Ukraine enrich not only Wrocław’s ethnic makeup, but also its cultural wealth as many cultural treasures from Lwów were transplanted here. Since shedding the yoke of communism in 1989 and being ‘rediscovered’ by the west, Wrocław has firmly established itself among Prague and Kraków as one of Eastern Europe’s top tourist destinations and one of the undisputed highlights of Poland.

WHAT TO SEE If we think about Wrocław’s city centre in terms of districts, there are three essential areas that visitors shouldn’t allow themselves to miss. The first is obviously the Old Town, with the marvellously restored Market Square at its centre and its maze of cobbled streets, canals, bridges, and church spires. Essentially bound by the Oder River to the north and the Fosa Miejska - or city moat - to the south, this area that was once encircled by the city’s medieval defensive walls is where you’ll find the bulk of Wrocław’s historical monuments and museums, as well as many beautiful University buildings, soaring churches, and the city’s infamous gnomes. The Old Town also includes the ‘District of Mutual Respect’ (E-6/D-5/6) - a unique neighbourhood southwest of the market square which includes almost side by side the places of worship of four different denominations, including the city’s only surviving Jewish synagogue.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App The Old Town may be the heart of Wrocław, but its soul is in Ostrów Tumski (H/I-3, p.36). This ‘Cathedral Island’ within easy walking distance northeast of the market square was the first part of Wrocław to be settled by Slavic tribes in the 9th century. Since a bishopric was built there in 1000AD it has remained an important place of royal and religious significance, and home to the city’s most important Cathedral. Finally, no visit to Wrocław is complete without a trip east of the Old Town to Centennial Hall (N-6, p.40). The city’s only UNESCO World Heritage site, this outstanding piece of architecture turned 100 in 2013 and is surrounded by beautiful parks and gardens, including Wrocław’s Zoo and a spectacular multimedia fountain. Enjoy exploring Wrocław. iyp.me/polandblog

WAIT, WHERE AM I?

Woodcut of ‘Bressla’ from the Nuremburg Chronicle, 1493

As a city under constantly shifting rule, Wrocław has been known by many names throughout its history. In fact, the national status of Wrocław has changed more often than any other city in Europe. Passing hands from the Polish Piasts (1000-1335), to the Kingdom of Bohemia (1335-1526), to the Austrian Habsburgs (1526-1741), to the Kingdom of Prussia (1741-1871), into the German Empire and Third Reich (1871-1945), and finally back to Poland (1945-today, and hopefully tomorrow as well), Wrocław cannot be claimed as the by-rights homeland of any one nation or people (despite the past efforts of politically motivated revisionist historians to prove otherwise. The city’s makeup has always been culturally and religiously diverse, with Poles, Germans, Bohemians, Austrians and Jews all making significant contributions to Wrocław’s development. With so many influences and upheavals, Wrocław (as we know it today) has seen more than its fair share of names used in common parlance throughout the years, including Vratislava, Wrotizla, Wretslaw, Vraclav, Vretslav, Prezlav, Presslaw and Bresslau (to name but a few). It’s not uncommon today to still see and hear Wrocław referred to by its old German name, ‘Breslau’, particularly by and for the German nostalgia tourists who come here to seek their roots. The Polish name ‘Wrocław’ apparently predates the German name, and is thought to have been derived from the name of the Czech sovereign ‘Vratislav’. Variants of the German name began appearing in documents shortly after Poland lost control of the region in 1335. Some sources claim that Frederick the Great changed the city’s name to Breslau in 1741, though this is subject to historical dispute. The problem of Wrocław’s complex titular nomenclature was a challenge historian Norman Davies tackled when writing his thorough history of the city; Davies eventually settled on ‘Microcosm’ as the title of his excellent book in acknowledgement of the city’s standing as a constant crossroads for Eastern European cultures and concerns, and the unfairness of putting such a wide-ranging study under a title with a limited representation of its history. And while the temptation to re-title this little tome ‘Microcosm In Your Pocket’ is ever-present, we’ve got enough connotative problems as it is… September – December 2018

Sightseeing DAY TRIPS

GUIDED TOURS

With reasonable temperatures and gorgeous foliage, the autumn is our favourite time for day trips away from the city. If you’d like to see more of Lower Silesia during your trip, we’ve got you covered:

If an authoritative print guide, website and iPhone app just aren’t enough and you need someone to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid) there are plenty of tour companies to choose from in Wrocław and we list the best of them here.

CHURCHES OF PEACE

How long can a building made only of wood, clay, and straw weather the elements? At least 350 years, it seems. Built in 1648 after the conclusion of the Thirty Years’ War, these UNESCO-listed churches in Świdnica and Jawor are a testament to the ingenuity of the local Protestant population in the face of religious discrimination. iyp.me/peacechurches ŚLĘŻA

This holy Slavic mountain was, and in some ways still is, the most important site of Pagan worship in Poland. Located 40 km southwest of Wrocław, the 718m tall peak makes for a nice relaxed hike, offering views of the surrounding plains from the church tower sitting at the top. iyp.me/sleza

FREE WALKACTIVE! TOUR This outfit offers free English-language walking tours of the Old Town (daily at 10:00 and 13:30), ‘WWII and Jewish Wrocław’ (daily at 14:00), ‘Islands and Bridges of Wrocław’ (19:00 Tue and Thu-Sat), and our favourite, ‘Dwarfs and Communists’ (16:30 Wed, Fri). All tours leave from beside the Fredro monument on the market square; just look for the ‘Free Walking Tours’ sign and have some cash ready to tip these fine people at the tour’s conclusion. Check their website for additional tours, like ‘Craft Beers of Wrocław’ (16:30 Sat), and for up-to-date tour times, as they’re subject to change.Qtel. (+48) 513 87 58 14, www. freewalkingtour.com. PASSENGER CRUISES (ŻEGLUGA PASAŻERSKA) Panoramic Odra River cruises. See page 43 for full info. QM‑6, ul. Wróblewskiego 1, tel. (+48) 609 20 08 67, www.statekpasazerski.pl. TOURCITY PANORAMA This outfit offers personalised sightseeing tours around Wrocław in their fleet of comfortable electric cars. Standard tours of the Old Town last an hour, while a 90-minute tour is a good way to get out to Centennial Hall and the Zoo. Tours are available in English, Polish, and German. Groups over 6 people should contact the company by email at wroctours@gmail.com, while smaller groups can make reservations by phone.QH‑5, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 728 97 90 70, www.tourcitypanorama.pl. VIADRINA TOURS Demonstrating Wrocław’s diversity with theme tours that trace the city’s different cultures and religions, Viadrina Tours offer tours around the city in golf carts, minivans, historic trams, or on foot. They can also take you to

RIESE COMPLEX During WWII the Nazis drilled a network of mysterious tunnels underneath the Owl Mountains, some 80 km southwest of Wrocław. Breeding speculation and fanciful conspiracy theories, these abandoned underground corridors are now run as tourist attractions and can be toured with amateur historians, who often do more to mystify than demystify the history. iyp.me/riese 26 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing places a bit further afield such as Książ, Świdnica, Jelenia Góra, or the former concentration camps at Gross-Rosen and Auschwitz. Tours available in English, German, Spanish, and Portuguese. Call one day in advance to negotiate prices.QF‑4, tel. (+48) 509 96 00 34, www.viadrinatours. com. WRATISLAVIA TOUR This outfit organises airport transfers and Old Town tours in a variety of flavours: by foot, bike, scooter, or golf cart. Tours around Lower Silesia and out of town are also available, as are less traditional tours and activities like shooting, laser tag, culinary workshops, and bird watching. Reservations can be made by phone or online.QF‑5, ul. Odrzańska 8/4, tel. (+48) 793 15 43 30, www.wratislaviatour.com. Tours in English, 350zł. WROCŁAW SIGHTSEEING TOURS This tour company organises a range of thematic tours (in various languages), including Wrocław’s city centre, Lower Silesia, Secrets of WWII, a local flavours tasting tour, Bolesławiec, Auschwitz, Kraków, Wieliczka, Częstochowa, and more. They also offer what we think is the first Great Escape Tour to the legendary POW camp at Żagań. Qul. Wita Stwosza 3, tel. (+48) 698 90 01 23, www. wroclawsightseeingtours.com.

TOURIST INFORMATION INFOWRO JATKI WROCŁAW QE‑5, ul. Jatki 24, tel. (+48) 71 344 41 16. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. From November open 10:00 - 19:00. TOURIST INFORMATION QE‑5, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 71 344 31 11, www. wroclaw-info.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. TOURIST INFORMATION All sorts of tourist paraphernalia (maps, brochures) and advice can be obtained here.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 12, tel. (+48) 71 342 28 98, www.wroclaw-info.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. TOURIST INFORMATION - WROCŁAW AIRPORT Qul. Graniczna 190, tel. (+48) 519 50 93 36, www. dot.org.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. TOURIST INFORMATION - WROCŁAW GŁÓWNYQF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 105, tel. (+48) 519 50 93 37, www.dot.org.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. TOURIST INFORMATION - WROCŁAW ZOO QN‑6, ul. Wróblewskiego 1-5, tel. (+48) 605 57 80 10, www.dot.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. From November open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Old Town Walking Tour

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Old Town Walking Tour If there’s room for a little wide-eyed rambling in your schedule, you’ll find no more rewarding experience than meandering around the Old Town. For those who prefer a bit more structure, we’ve put together an eleven-stop walking tour, which will take you through all the main sights. Let’s go! 0 MARKET SQUARE (RYNEK) While you’re taking in the medieval majesty of the Wrocław’s market square (Rynek), bear in mind that it was almost totally rebuilt from a pile of ruins after the Siege of 1945. Such was the remarkable dedication to detail of Wrocław’s ‘pioneers’ – those who resettled here from the east after WWII - that today tourists can even admire a replica of the stone pillory (south east of the Town Hall, F-5) used to flog people from 1492 to well into the 18th century. In the post-war period the statue of famous writer Aleksander Fredro (seated southwest of the Town Hall, F-5) was also brought from Lviv in 1956 to replace the statue that had previously occupied the space up till the end of the war - that of Kaiser Wilhelm. Wrocław’s market square and much of the urban grid around it was laid out by city planners in 1241. It was then and remains even now one of the largest squares of its kind in Europe, and the magnificent Town Hall (Ratusz) at its centre is a masterpiece of medieval architecture. Work began on the city’s administrative seat in the late 13th century and continued for 250 years, resulting in the eclectic edifice covered in decorative embellishments that we see today. Today the beautiful ensemble contains the Museum of Burgher Art, as well as numerous restaurants, cafes and bars. Ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau, the impressive facades of the townhouses lining the market square also deserve closer inspection, one notable exception being the drab ten-storey office building at Rynek 11. Completed in 1931 the structure was designed by Heinrich Rump and offers a glimpse of how the market square may have looked had a ludicrous project to modernise the historic centre come to fruition. It was the idea of Max Berg - creator of the concrete bliss called Centennial Hall - to demolish the buildings surrounding the Rynek, replacing them with 20 storey concrete towers. After much deliberation city authorities abandoned the plan, in the process saving the Wrocław loved by all today.QE‑5.

Town Hall

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1 TOWN HALL, MUSEUM OF BURGHER ART The first thing you’ll probably notice about the Town Hall (Ratusz) is that it seems to be patched together from bits and pieces of a dozen different buildings, and in many ways it was. Construction began at the end of the 13th century and continued - through all the changing political and artistic forces - for about 250 years. The Town Hall was the centre of city life up until the early 20th century, housing the Town Council, merchants’ stalls and (most importantly?) a beer cellar. The building escaped relatively unscathed after World War II (an estimated 10% was damaged). After reconstruction work, it was re-opened as the Museum of Burgher Art (Muzeum Sztuki Mieszczańskiej). Inside you can see the remarkable Gothic interiors, a collection of silver and other city artefacts. Unfortunately these exhibits are poorly marked and finding your way around can be a bit of a stab in the dark. For us, the most fun part of the Town Hall is exploring the elaborate exterior decoration; see if you can find scenes from Aesop’s fables, or grotesque scenes of medieval pub life.QF‑5, Rynek, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 90, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibits. U

Plac Solny

Photo by Daviidos, CC-BY-SA-4.0

2 PLAC SOLNY (SALT MARKET) The main square’s little flower-loving sibling, the Salt Market was built quite early in the city’s history, most likely in 1242, while Wrocław was being reconstructed following the disastrous Mongol Invasion. Named variously Saltzring (Salt Square) and Polnischer Markt (Polish Market), the square was where salt from Wieliczka and Halicz and goods like leather, honey, and beeswax - mainly from Poland were traded from the Middle Ages until the 19th century. Some strange scenes took place here occasionally - the most vivid, perhaps, happened in the 15th century, when Wrocław was under Bohemian rule. At the time, the city’s inhabitants were largely influenced by the ideas of Czech reformer Jan Hus, a predecessor to Protestantism. The Vatican, outraged at such blasphemy, sent inquisitor John of Capistrano (a ‘soldier-saint’ who would later lead a crusade at age 70) to talk this heretical nonsense out of the Wrocław lambs. John’s fiery sermons were so effective, in fact, that worshippers willingly carried furniture and valuables out of their homes to be burned in a huge bonfire on Plac Solny. Things soon took a darker turn, as local Jews - the ultimate heretics according to the inquisitor - were were burned at

September – December 2018

Old Town Walking Tour NEON WROCŁAW Communist Poland typically calls to mind a cold, colourless landscape of uniform concrete drabness essentially the antithesis of energetic and illuminated Times Square or Las Vegas, the very pinnacles of capitalist decadence and indecency. The little known irony here, however, is that neon signage - which is most closely associated with American commercialism and consumerism - was actually prolific in the People’s Republic of Poland during the Cold War era. After Socialist Realism died with Stalin in the late 50s, a new, less restricted period of creative expression began in Poland, and neon rather oddly became the favoured medium of city authorities looking for an inexpensive way to brighten the grey urban landscape and create a veneer of economic prosperity at a time when stores shelves were practically bare. During the ‘neonisation’ programme of the 1960s and ‘70s, the country’s most gifted architects and graphic designers were commissioned to create unique neon advertising for everything from Polish products and state-run companies to cultural landmarks like cinemas, theatres, nightclubs, and train stations.

Though the collapse of the communist economy meant the plug got pulled on the country’s neons back in the late ‘70s, today neon is back in vogue and the country’s signs are being restored. Neon greets visitors immediately upon arrival throughout the Wrocław train station (G-8), and the famous ‘Dobry Wieczór we Wrocławiu’ (Good Evening in Wrocław) sign across the street is there to welcome you as soon as you step foot outside (G-8). Other famous Soviet-era neons include the entrance gate of the Wrocław Zoo (N-7) and the animated antics of the burglar atop the PZU building on Plac Kościuszki (E-7), while the modern, hand-scripted sign of the Academy of Fine Arts (ul. Traugutta 19/21, H-6) encapsulates the comeback this art form has made in recent years. The coolest place on Wrocław’s neon map, however, is the Neon Side outdoor gallery located in a courtyard at ul. Ruska 46C (D-5), which gathers numerous salvaged neon signs in one place. On our website you’ll find all of Wrocław’s most electrifying neons listed with GPS coordinates so you can use the mobile version of our website (wroclaw.inyourpocket.com) on your smartphone to easily go out and get your ne-on. 30 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Jaś & Małgosia

the stake along with the couches and jewellery boxes. In 1996, these events were commemorated with a flame-like Little Spire sculpture erected smack dab in the centre of the square; created by artist Adam Wyspiański, the sculpture is a nod to the (big) 90m Spire monument located next to the Centennial Hall. Today Plac Solny is known for numerous 24hr flower stalls, which turn it into a phantasmagoria of colours night and day. Points of interest include a 1997 ‘antique style’ dragon fountain, the 1822 neoclassical Old Stock Exchange building at no. 16, the early 18th-century Oppenheimer House at no. 4, an avant-garde modernist building from the 1920s - which used to house the definitelynot-PC ‘Pharmacy Under the Moor’ - at no. 2/3, and an underground WWII bunker (sadly not open to the public). QE‑5, Plac Solny. 3 JAŚ & MAŁGOSIA Wrocław’s not short on photo opportunities and one particular favourite is the two skinny buildings that connect ul. Św Mikołaja with ul. Odrzańska at the northwest corner of the market square. This pair of storybook tenements are known locally as ‘Jaś i Małgosia,’ or commonly ‘Hansel & Gretel’ for foreigners, apparently because the connecting archway is symbolic of a couple holding hands. Built in the 16th and 18th century respectively they are all that remain of the line of townhouses that once circled the cemetery of St. Elizabeth’s, and the archway is inscribed with a Latin motto proclaiming ‘Death is the gate to life.’ Jaś - the smaller, less decorative of the two buildings - features several bas-reliefs by local artist Eugeniusz GetStankiewicz, including a self-portrait. Get-Stankiewicz is a bit of a local legend and commonly regarded as one of the key movers in 1960s Polish counter-culture. Since 1995 the Jaś house has also doubled as his studio, which he rents from the city for a token one groszy coin per month. Małgosia, on the other hand, houses a long, narrow, completely rubbish bar (Drink Bar Małgosia) on the ground floor which doubles as a souvenir shop. The saving grace is that in the warm months there’s a brilliant little beer garden in the courtyard in front of the church. QE‑5, ul. Odrzańska 39/40.

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Old Town Walking Tour 4 ST. ELIZABETH’S CHURCH Among the oldest churches in Wrocław and the tallest buildings in the Old Town, St. Elizabeth’s is unmistakable. A church has stood on this site since the 12th century, but the current Gothic structure dates to the 14th century. This is not the luckiest church in the world: it was destroyed in 1529 by heavy hail, suffered severe damage in WWII, and then was the victim of a mysterious fire in 1976. Today the church serves as a military garrison church. Inside you’ll find impressive Gothic and Renaissance altars and over 100 tombs of once prominent citizens. The highlight is the 91m tower (the original tower was 128m), but don’t underestimate the climb of over 300 steps. The view from the top is more than worth the arduous journey and 5zł.QE‑5, ul. Św. Elżbiety 1/1, tel. (+48) 71 343 16 38. Open 10:00 18:00. No visiting during mass please.

13th century are still visible on the south side of the street. Though in past times the principal industry here was meat - butchered beasts filled the wooden stalls, today the alleyway is home to numerous artists’ studios and souvenir stalls. The defining feature of Stare Jatki is the collection of bronze farm animals at the start of the street. Sculpted by Piotr Wieczorek and erected in the 1990s this ‘Memorial to Slaughtered Animals’ was funded by the local government, and in addition to being one of Wrocław’s most photographed attractions, also serves as an obstacle course for party casualties pouring out of Klub Na Jatkach.QE‑5, ul. Jatki.

St. Elizabeth’s Church

Photo by Katie pl, CC-BY-SA-3.0

5 STARE JATKI One of Wrocław’s most engaging streets, ul. Jatki is no more than one city block long, connecting ul. Kiełbaśnicza with ul. Odrzańska. Its picturesque charm is no doubt due to the fact that it has retained its medieval character throughout the ages; though most of the structures on Stare Jatki date from the 17th and 18th centuries, the line of low level buildings were constructed on medieval foundations and some elements from the

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September – December 2018

Old Town Walking Tour

Wrocław University

6 WROCŁAW UNIVERSITY Founded by the Jesuits in 1670, the magnificent Baroque main building of Wrocław University and the adjacent Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus were built on the site of a derelict Piast castle after a land grant from Emperor Leopold. In 1811, Prussia secularised all church property and took over administration of the university. The dying days of WWII saw the university library turned into a makeshift HQ for the occupying Nazis, and at the war’s end the German faculty were all but exiled, with the replacement professors who arrived from the University of Lwów forming the first Polish faculty to teach here. Past professors include Alois Alzheimer (who gave his name to the disease) and Robert Bunsen (who didn’t invent the Bunsen burner but improved it to such a degree that it was named in his honour). Since the start of the 20th century the university has produced a remarkable 9 Nobel Prize winners, and over 40,000 new students are enrolled each year. Despite its ongoing function as an academic institution, the main university building is open to tourists as a museum. Two tickets are available, giving you access to 3 or 4 rooms, plus a free audioguide (available in English, Polish, German, Russian, Czech, Spanish, or Italian). We recommend you splash out for all four rooms to avoid any later confusion and consternation. The first of the University’s main highlights is Aula Leopoldina (closed in September) - a ceremonial hall

Ossolineum

32 Wrocław In Your Pocket

exploding with cherubs and Baroque swag. The painting on the ceiling depicts the apotheosis of God’s wisdom, while portraits of the university’s founding fathers ring the walls; years ago four of them were stolen and two have yet to be returned. Winding upstairs past the odd exhibition and a line in the floor demarcating the 51st parallel - which runs right through the building - your visit to the museum ends on the terrace of the university’s ‘Mathematical Tower’ which affords panoramic views of the Old Town and Odra River.QF‑4, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 375 26 18, www.muzeum.uni.wroc.pl. Closed Wed, Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. From October open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. During lectures and certain special events the Aula Leopoldina is closed to visitors. Admission 1214/10-8zł depending on how many rooms you wish to visit. N 7 UNIVERSITY CHURCH OF THE BLESSED NAME OF JESUS This Late Baroque church has been ranked among the most beautiful in Central Europe, and makes a worthwhile visit. Built by the Jesuits as part of the university complex in the late 17th century on the site of the Piast castle, a section of the original castle structure can still be seen in the northern sacristy - the alcove at the far end of the church. The interior, painted to imitate marble and gilt, is very well preserved and most of the furnishings are original. Look up to see the fresco on the vaults; the figures are 18th-century depictions of natives from the Americas, Africa, Asia and Europe. Visitors are even given an audioguide which is available in five different languages. Donations suggested, but not required.QF‑4, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 344 94 23, www.uniwersytecki.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 - 15:30, Sun 13:30 - 15:30. From November open 11:00 - 15:30, Sun 13:30 - 15:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Closed from December. No visiting during mass please. 8 THE OSSOLINEUM This stunning Baroque palace complex on the Odra riverbank was rebuilt to its late 17th century designs after being damaged heavily during WWII and is today one of the most outstanding works of Baroque architecture in PL. Originally a hospital and convent, later a college, today the magnificent grounds are home to the Ossolineum Library - an important research centre and national archive, the country’s oldest still-running publishing centre and one of its largest library collections. Established in 1817 by Józef Maksymilian Ossoliński when he began collecting Polish manuscripts and cultural documents in his Vienna flat, recognising their importance to national culture after Poland was wiped from the world map, Ossoliński’s private library became a national institute and was eventually moved to L’viv where it expanded generously. After postwar border changes the collection was moved to Wrocław, however communist authorities confiscated over 80% of it which presumably remains in L’viv today. The collections of the Ossolineum are some of the most valuable in the country and include manuscripts by Polish bards Adam

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Old Town Walking Tour Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki, writings by Copernicus, and drawings by Rembrandt and Durer. The site of regular free exhibitions (which have their own opening hours), the Ossolineum is otherwise worth a look around for the building itself, with the library and inner and outer courtyards all accessible to the public. In May 2016, the Ossolineum opened a second branch on the market square (Rynek 6, E-5), displaying the original manuscript of Mickiewicz’s epic poem Pan Tadeusz and illuminating the Romantic Age during which it was written via digital documents and photos, 3D animation and augmented reality.QG‑4, ul. Szewska 37, tel. (+48) 71 344 44 71, www.ossolineum.pl. Open 08:00 - 15:00 Tue-Thu, 10:00 - 18:00 Mon and Fri, closed Sat and Sun. From October open 08:00 - 19:45, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 9 HALA TARGOWA Designed by Richard Pluddemann and Heinrich Kuster, and built between 1906 and 1908, Wrocław’s Market Hall has a handsome, traditional-looking facade, while the interior is a concrete cathedral of elliptical arches; in fact, this innovative reinforced concrete structure directly inspired Max Berg to create Wrocław’s UNESCO-listed Centennial Hall. Worth a look from an architectural, cultural and practical standpoint, in Hala Targowa you’ll find earnest locals hawking top quality fruit and vegetables on the ground floor, as well as a wide selection of local cheese, salami and hams. Upstairs is a bewildering array of bric-a-brac, nylon underwear and plastic kitchen utensils, and a set of surprisingly clean and modern public toilets. To your right as you enter the market is one of the city’s best little no-name, no-fuss pierogi bars. Essential.QG‑4, ul. Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 31. Open 08:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun.

STREET ART

Frida Kahlo on ul. Roosevelta (H-2)

Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art (check out Wrocław’s Polish Poster Gallery, p.83, if you want proof ), but when it comes to public street graffiti, too often it steers closer to ‘vandalism,’ rarely graduating beyond slurs, gang signs, and football allegiances. Thanks to a strong underground art community, however, visitors to Wrocław will encounter plenty of urban space that has been elaborately decorated with street art that strives to be just that: art. In fact, thanks to its own initiative of embracing rather than rejecting the trend, Wrocław has made itself a veritable destination for large-scale street art. Today the city is decorated with dozens of highly visible murals in public space, and with that number growing all the time, urban art has emerged as a legitimate attraction in the city. Formerly a strictly underground art form, things started to change in 2008 when the curators of the city’s vanguard Galeria Awangarda organised Poland’s first street art festival (dubbed ‘Out of Sth’) by inviting 20 of Europe’s biggest names in urban art to do installations throughout Wrocław. A year later cult culture hangout Niskie Łąki helped organise the first Pink Piknik Festival, filling the entire courtyard between ul. Ruska and ul. Św. Antoniego (D-5) with colourful art. Further editions of Out of Sth followed in 2010 and 2012, and with Wrocław University and the city itself (as part of its European Capital of Culture 2016 programme) also contributing commissions, Wrocław has strongly secured its status as Poland’s street art capital.

Hala Targowa

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Those with an interest in street art will have no problem tracking down some of the city’s finest examples and we’re making it even easier. In the maps of our print guide you’ll find many of Wrocław’s most visible murals marked with spray paint can icon so you can literally use them to give yourself a self-guided tour of the city’s mural art. We encourage you to do just that and check out some of Wrocław’s alternative artistic visions. September – December 2018

Old Town Walking Tour

Guest Rooms, ApARtment, Hostel The Dairy, Die Molkerei, La Latteria, Le Lecheria, La Laitearie.

10 BASZTA NIEDŹWIADKA (BEAR TOWER) One of the only surviving fragments of the medieval defensive walls that once circled Wrocław’s Old Town, this obscure tower hidden right in the centre was first built in the 13th century to protect the city from Mongol mayhem, acquiring the basic appearance it retains today a century later. As Wrocław expanded, Niedźwiadek Tower quickly lost its military importance and became hemmed in by residential buildings - the close proximity of which spared it from being razed along with the rest of the city’s fortifications under Napoleon’s orders in 1807. 75% destroyed during Festung Breslau, the historic tower and its surviving stretch of wall were rebuilt during restoration works in the 1950s and it was then that the weathered stone sculpture of a ‘bear’ (though historians tend to believe it’s a lion) discovered near ul. Łaciarska was placed in the tower’s south-east corner, thus giving the tower its name. To find it look in the courtyard just south of Hala Targowa between ul. Piaskowa and ul. Kraińskiego. QG‑5, ul. Kraińskiego 14.

ul. P. Włodkowica 5, 50 – 072 Wrocław tel./fax +48 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl e-mail: rezerwacja@mleczarniahostel.pl

CITY MOAT To the best of our knowledge, Wrocław is the only Polish city to still retain a functional city moat, though you’d be forgiven for mistaking it for one of the many slivers of the Oder River and its tributaries - after all, this is the ‘city of one hundred bridges’. The original 13th century fortifications made use of two concentric moats; the slightly older inner one, snugly encircling the part of the old town that wasn’t protected by the river, was filled in towards the end of the 19th century as part of a broader effort to dismantle the fortifications, which also saw Cathedral Island (Ostrów Tumski) cease being an island. The outer moat, left largely intact, was turned into a leafy promenade, and today it is one of the nicest places in the city for an afternoon walk, bypassing the District of Mutual Respect, the National Music Forum, and Partisan Hill before terminating at Park Słowackiego.

Baszta Niedźwiadka

34 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Photo by Piklus, CC-BY-SA-3.0-PL

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Old Town Walking Tour

WROCLAVIA SHOPPING CENTER 180 SHOPS & RESTAURANTS NEXT TO MAIN TRAIN AND BUS STATION

UL. SUCHA 1 WROCŁAW iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Ostrów Tumski

Playing soul to the Rynek’s heart, Ostrów Tumski is the gem at the centre of Wrocław’s crown. This, after all, is where the city began, making it one of the most historically significant parts of town, in addition to its most archaically picturesque. The district’s history has always been closely tied to Catholicism and today you’ll find an incredible concentration of religious buildings across the river, making it an incredibly peaceful place to explore and relax. During the latter part of the 9th century what is now known as Ostrów Tumski (the name means ‘Cathedral Island’ in Polish) was settled by a Slavic tribe, the Ślężanie, who considered the island impregnable. The first bishopric in Lower Silesia soon followed in 1000, and for the next two and a half centuries Ostrów Tumski was the centre of Wrocław before the marauding Tartars proved they could indeed make it pregnant (so to speak); pregnant with fire and ruin, that is. After its destruction, the city’s nucleus shifted across the river where its development would be less restricted by rivers. Ostrów Tumski, meanwhile, became a place of almost exclusively religious and royal (the Piast Dynasty built a castle here in the 1260s) significance. With a few exceptions it remains primarily a place of worship and reflection to this day; as such, there are few shops, dwellings, cafes, bars and restaurants, and the Wrocław Archdiocese occupies almost all of the beautifully maintained classical buildings you will see. One of the first things observant visitors may notice is that though Ostrów Tumski is indeed accessed from central Wrocław by bridge, it is not actually an island. It was until the 19th century, but persistent flooding led town planners to fill in one of the Odra’s tributaries in 1810 (though the city has sadly seen its share of floods since then as well). 36 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Seemingly miles from the bustle of Rynek, perhaps the real joy of Ostrów Tumski is its other-worldly feel. Katedralna and Idziego Streets both provide cobbled reminders of the past - Idziego especially, though it lacks the postcard worthy sights of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous street, still lit today by original gas lamps and providing the perfect frame for a picturesque, romantic evening stroll. Keep your eyes peeled at dusk for the district’s famous lamplighter as he goes about his daily duty of lighting Ostów Tumski’s gas lamps by hand.

WHAT TO SEE A visit to this lovely, peaceful part of Wrocław rightly begins at Most Piaskowy (Sand Bridge, C-2). This is the oldest bridge in Wrocław, built in 1861 and an engineering marvel, if no great shakes on the design front. The original bridge, built back in the 11th century, was part of the ancient trade route - the Amber Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to Vienna, and thence to Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigi you will pass the Russian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, the Baroque-era University Library, and the Gothic Church of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous for its 16th century icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern nave. From here the beloved, iron, 1890-built Most Tumski (Tumski Bridge, C-2) leads you across to the oldest part of the city; look out for the statues of St. Jadwiga (Hedwig), Silesia’s patron saint, and John the Baptist, Wrocław’s patron, at the head of the bridge. Also of note are the padlocks placed on the bridge by newlyweds to symbolise the unbreakable bond they share going forward in life together. iyp.me/wroclaw

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Following ul. Katedralna from there you’ll first come across the Church of Saints Peter & Paul before reaching the impressive monument of John of Nepomuk standing beneath the Church of the Holy Cross, a rare twolevel church with two separate parishes. Continuing down picturesque ul. Katedralna you’ll pass two of the neighbourhood’s only places to rest and refuel - Cafeterie Chic at Katedralna 6 and Lwia Brama at Katedralna 9 before standing beneath the beautiful Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (D-2), famous for its stunning stained glass windows and 16th century altarpiece. To the right of the Cathedral’s main portal is the Archbishop’s Palace, now the Archdiocese Museum (the Archbishop lives elsewhere these days). For those looking for a sanctuary that’s not full of cadavers on crosses, head north to the city’s Botanical Gardens – one of the finest, most picturesque, and sadly overlooked, places for spending time in Wrocław. 1 CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL Crossing Tumski Bridge from Wyspa Piasek (Sand Island), this is the first church you’ll encounter on Ostrów Tumski. Original construction of this Gothic brick church took nearly 50 years between 1404 and 1452, only to see it destroyed by two fires, rebuilt, and then 40% obliterated during Festung Breslau. Reconstructed in the 1950s, the accuracy of the interior has since been disputed. Though you might find the front doors open depending on the priest’s whimsy (8:00-18:00 Mon-Fri as a rough rule), getting past the inner gates to see the church in detail is possible by prior arrangement only.QH‑4, ul. Katedralna, tel. (+48) 71 327 13 33. Open by prior arrangement.

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EAT & DRINK CAFETERIE CHIC This might just be the quintessential Wrocław café. Search for it (which you must, it is well-disguised) near the Church of the Holy Cross on Ostrów Tumski, and enter a world of marbled floors, tiny little tables, period lamps, and the dreamiest apple pie with raspberry sauce in Poland. Popular with ladies of a certain age who have little to do except visit cafes and eat what they would call ‘naughty’ cakes, it’s nonetheless one of our favourite places in Wrocław.QH‑4, ul. Katedralna 6, tel. (+48) 71 327 13 55, www.hotel-jp2.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. LWIA BRAMA2 One of the few places you’ll actually find anything to eat if you’re strolling Ostrów Tumski, Lwia Brama2 offers some great sidewalk seating in the warmer months from which you can enjoy a drink or a meal while waiting for the lamplighter to come round and perform that most romantic of Wrocław rituals - the daily lighting of the district’s gaslamps. In winter the historic underground cellars aren’t as cold and sprawling as you might expect, and they also serve as a gallery for local artists (all paintings are for sale). The menu here sticks to Polish and European standards, with some dishes prepared in the sous-vide method. QH‑4, ul. Katedralna 9, tel. (+48) 793 89 39 09, www.restauracjalwiabrama.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. T6W September – December 2018

Ostrów Tumski THE LAMPLIGHTER

St. Martin’s Church

Photo by Dawid Galus, CC-BY-SA-3.0-PL

2 ST. MARTIN’S CHURCH This tiny and somewhat irregularly shaped brick church is all that remains of the Piast dynasty’s 13th-century Royal Castle, which once stood on the island. St. Martin’s too, however, was largely rebuilt in the 15th and 20th centuries. Before WWII the church was a centre of Polish culture in a primarily German city. Poles gathered here to hear sermons and sing hymns in their own language. The last Polish mass under Nazi oppression was held here in 1939. A plaque outside reads in part, “We are Poles... A Pole is a brother to a Pole... Poland is our mother, we cannot speak badly of our mother.” Outside St. Martin’s stands a massive monument to Pope John XXIII, placed here in 1986.QH‑4, Świętego Marcina 67-68. Open only during mass (Sundays at 10:00).

Lamplighter has to be one of the world’s most charmingly antiquated, unique and romantic occupations, right up there with town crier, court jester, lighthouse keeper, castle drawbridge operator and… well, IYP editor, of course. Up until and even throughout the 19th century, when candle or gas streetlamps were still the norm, lamplighter was a prolific and wellrespected job. In those pre-Edison days it was the lamplighter’s job to go around town at dusk igniting a city’s streetlamps, and then extinguishing them again at dawn; while on patrol, the lamplighter often served a dual role as town watchman. Today having a degree in lamplighting won’t do much for your CV; in fact, to our knowledge, Wrocław is one of only two cities in Europe that still employs a lamplighter (the other being Brest, Belarus). The first gas lantern was lit in Wrocław in 1846 and gas streetlamps were common throughout the city even after the war and up until the 1960s when they were replaced in the Old Town. Fortunately those on Ostrów Tumski – Wrocław’s Cathedral Island – survived modernisation and the tradition of the Wrocław lamplighter is carried on to this day. 365 days a year this gentleman can be seen at dusk in his unique cape and top hat lighting the 103 gas lamps in the district. With a butane cartridge discreetly hidden under his cloak, the lamplighter uses a pole to ignite the lamps and a hook attachment to extinguish them each morning. Catching him in the jolly act is not only easy to do if you’re exploring the area in the evening, but also a prerequisite for camera-wielding tourists. 38 Wrocław In Your Pocket

3 CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS / ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S One of Ostrów Tumski’s most beautiful and iconic structures, thanks to a 70m steeple and impressive entry staircase, this curious sanctuary is actually two churches in one. Split over two levels, the building comprises the shorter windows of the Church of St. Bartholomew beneath the soaring windows of the upper level Church of the Holy Cross unfortunately only the lower level is currently open. The first two-storey church in Silesia, and one of only a few in all of Europe, the church was completed in 1295 as an act of reconciliation ending a long dispute between Duke Henry IV and Bishop Thomas II. For centuries the sarcophagus of Henry IV was housed in the upper Church of the Holy Cross, however today it can be seen on display in the National

Courtesy of the Municipality of Wrocław

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Ostrów Tumski Museum. Standing outside the church is a large sculpture of John of Nepomuk dating from 1732. As of now no special time is allotted for visiting purposes, so sneak in during mass if you’re so inclined.QH‑4, Plac Kościelny, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74, www.katedra.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open during mass only. 4 CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST One of Wrocław’s most enduring icons, the elegant doublespires of this Gothic building stand like sentinels at the end of ul. Katedralna, and its elaborate portal is one of the most valuable medieval artefacts in Wrocław. What we see today is in fact the fourth church to be built on this site. When construction began in 1244, this was the first brick building in Poland. Cathedral-building being what it is, work continued for five more centuries. The centrepiece of the rich, Gothic interior is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522, showing the Virgin Mary having a nap. You’ll also see the largest organ in Poland, which prior to the war was also the largest in the world. The real highlight of the Cathedral, however, is the panoramic view from one of its towers, which can be yours for 7zł on Mondays and Tuesdays between 11:00 and 16:00 (more normal opening hours should resume in April); unlike the arduous climbs required for Wrocław’s other church towers, here an elevator takes you to the top where you’ll find a small exhibition in addition to the wonderful views.QH‑4, Pl. Katedralny 18, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74, www.katedra. archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 -16:00. No visiting during mass please.

5 ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM To the right of the Cathedral is the stunning Archdiocese Museum, a do-it-yourself museum that throws rooms full of religious art at you and you’re left to decide for yourself what to make of it. Much of the art is recent - the work of local religious orders, but the largest room is filled with invaluable mediaeval works from around Poland. Art historians will no doubt find plenty of interest.QI‑4, Pl. Katedralny 16, tel. (+48) 71 327 11 78, www.muzeum. archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10zł. N

Botanical Garden

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

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6 BOTANICAL GARDEN To complete a thorough tour of Ostrów Tumski you should not miss the charming Botanical Gardens. The gardens began life as a scientific pursuit, but have become a favourite retreat for Wrocław’s residents. The garden was built from 1811 to 1816 on the riverbed where the Odra once flowed around Ostrów Tumski. The 7.4 hectare grounds include a huge diversity of plant life, aquariums, sculptures, a plant shop and cafe, and a large pond with picturesque bridges. Open seasonally from early April until mid-November, on some days your peace and quiet could be disturbed by noisy groups of schoolkids (especially April-June), but the beautiful manicured landscapes include enough nooks and crannies that you should have no trouble forgetting you’re in the centre of a big city. Highly recommended. QI‑3, ul. Sienkiewicza 23, tel. (+48) 71 322 59 57, www. ogrodbotaniczny.wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. From October open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 15/5zł. NU

September – December 2018

Centennial Hall & Surrounds

Once you’ve finished ogling the Old Town and Ostrów Tumski, there’s a third essential district of this fine city that visitors will be poorer heading home without having seen. Just east of the city centre lie a clutch of attractions surrounding the historic Centennial Exhibition Complex, including Centennial Hall - Wrocław’s only UNESCO site, the country’s oldest zoo, the tranquil Japanese Garden, the tourist-luring Pergola Fountain and the newly renovated Four Dome Pavilion. Intended as a city showpiece since its creation, the area east of the Odra long held a somewhat lukewarm public standing thanks to dubious historical connotations and debatable aesthetic appeal; however recent renovations, the UNESCO nod and the addition of the magnificent multimedia fountain (operating May-October) have made it a favourite place of the locals and cemented its place as a Wrocław must-see. IGLICA (SPIRE) The iconic steel spire was erected on the Centennial Hall exhibition grounds in 1948 as part of the propagandic ‘Recovered Territories Exhibition.’ Meant to symbolise the soaring achievements of the country’s newly acquired western territories since they were ‘returned’ to Communist Poland, like many of the Party’s ideas, this one quickly went wrong. Originally 106 metres, Iglica’s peak was adorned with a spinning contraption of mirrors which would create a dazzling ‘umbrella of light’ at night. The apparatus was ominously struck by lightning only hours after completion with much of it crashing to the ground in dazzling catastrophe; the remaining dangling bits posed quite a 40 Wrocław In Your Pocket

hazard to the expected thousands who would attend the exhibition. To the rescue came two college students who were part of a climbing club and volunteered to dismantle the top of the structure for free after the military proved unable to sort the situation due to the inclement weather. Scaling the Iglica took 24 hours and 15 minutes, dismantling it another six, but the boys succeeded in becoming heroes of the enormous media spectacle. In 1964, the spire was reduced by 10 metres for safety reasons. During Martial Law, another daredevil climbed the tower and attached a Solidarity flag to its zenith. In 2016 it was taken down temporarily for renovations, and a routine measurement yielded a surprise - over 5 metres of the spire had inexplicably gone missing (or the communist team mismeasured the amount they were cutting in ‘64). Today the (officially 90.3m tall) ugly ribbed structure continues to stand outside Centennial Hall and is probably one of the tallest pieces of useless bolted metal in the world.QN‑6, Hala Stulecia, ul. Wystawowa 1.

GETTING THERE The easiest way to reach the Centennial Exhibition Complex is via public transport. Tram 10 can be caught from the ‘Rynek’ (E-5), ‘Świdnicka’ (E-7) and ‘Galeria Dominikańska’ (G-6) stops, or take buses 145 or 146 east from the train station (F-8), getting off at ‘Hala Stulecia.’ The area is also easily accessible by car, with parking available right in front of Centennial Hall. iyp.me/wroclaw

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CENTENNIAL HALL & DISCOVERY CENTRE With Wrocław developing rapidly in the late 19th century it was determined that the city required an exhibition hall and the hundred year anniversary of Napoleon’s defeat at the Battle of Leipzig (1813) was deemed a timely occasion for an expensive, over-the-top exhibition hall that would figuratively flex the architectural muscle of the German Nation. Max Berg, who had been appointed as official city architect in 1909, quickly set about designing his career-piece, and (what-do-ya-know?) his proposal was chosen over 42 others by city council despite abject objection from almost everyone who laid eyes on the design, which resembled a colossal concrete hatbox and would cost an enormous 1.9 million Reichsmarks. Teaming with eminent architect Hans Poelzig, the two personally oversaw the project which was completed in 1913 and has endured to become hailed as one of the most important architectural monuments of the early 20th century. With an inner diameter of 65 metres,

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THE FOUR DOME PAVILION: MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART The Four Dome Pavilion, a work of prominent German architect Hans Poelzig, has been modernised and re-opened to the public as a branch of the National Museum dedicated to contemporary art. Constructed in 1913 to serve as part of the exhibition space surrounding the Centennial Hall, it originally housed a historical exhibition commemorating Prussia’s defeat of Napoleon 100 years prior. Following WWII, the remarkable building was taken over by the Wrocław Motion Picture Company for office use, gradually falling into disrepair before being signed over to the National Museum in 2009. Now restored to its former glory and featuring some blindingly white minimalist decor, it is home to works by prominent 20th- and 21st-century Polish artists - including Magdalena Abakanowicz, Władysław Hasior, Tadeusz Kantor and Alina Szapocznikow and one more reason to visit the area around Centennial Hall. QN‑6, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.pawilonczterechkopul.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From October open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 09:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/8zł, students under 26 (with ID) 1zł, Tue free for permanent exhibitions; prices subject to change after September 2018. Admission free with a ticket from the nearby Racławice Panorama.

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a height of 42 metres and a 10,000 person capacity, the Jahrhunderthalle (as it was then called) became the widest structure of its type in the world; that type being a gigantic multi-purpose structure of radial reinforced concrete ribs unlike anything the world had ever seen. Though routinely left off lists of the world’s most attractive buildings, one thing is undeniable: the Centennial Hall is an engineering marvel. Building a structure of such size out of steel and concrete was both revolutionary and extremely daring; in fact the workers that helped build the behemoth were afraid to go inside, so certain were they of its eventual collapse. On the contrary, the Centennial Hall has inexplicably survived two world wars and hosted countless large scale events including monumental operas, concerts and sporting events. It was here that Adolf Hitler held rallies and Pope John Paul II held services during his famous visit in 1997. Renamed ‘Hala Ludowa’ (the People’s Hall) following World War II, the structure and surrounding grounds were the site of the People’s Republic of Poland’s ‘Recovered Territories Exhibition’ - the most expensive and publicised propaganda event in the history of Poland. Added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2006, until its total renovation in 2010, the Centennial Hall complex hadn’t really lived up to its reputation for locals and tourists alike, with busloads of the latter often standing in front of the concrete monstrosity wondering how difficult it would be to get the pants they’re wearing to qualification for the once exclusive list. September – December 2018

Centennial Hall & Surrounds ZOO WROCŁAW ZOO & AFRYKARIUM A product of the city’s dynamic development in the late 19th century, Wrocław’s zoo dates back to 1865 and became the oldest in the country when Poland inherited it after World War II. Suffering severe wartime damage, many of the zoo’s elegant historic buildings were reconstructed and can be found in the southern part of the park; also don’t miss the splendid Sovietera neon sign at the entrance. Brand-new to the zoo is the impressive African aquarium complex - or ‘Afrykarium’ - three levels of exhibits focussed on the diverse water environments of Africa, including hippos, sharks, manatees, crocodiles, penguins (-in Africa? Who knew?) and more. With over 14,000 critters of some 1,100 different species, the zoo is one of Wrocław’s most visited attractions and also provides foreigners with an opportunity to pick up a few phrases from one of the only Polish-speaking macaws in the world (making good money on the side as a voice talent for Polish dub-overs of Disney flicks).QN‑6, ul. Wróblewskiego 1-5, tel. (+48) 71 340 71 19, www.zoo.wroclaw. pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. In October open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 18:00. From November open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 45/35zł. Family ticket available. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. However, that’s no longer the case; Centennial Hall has been scrubbed clean and features an interior exhibit that not only transforms the structure from a dubious photoop to a bona fide tourist attraction, but also does much to explain and justify its reputation as a modern architectural masterpiece. Known as the Discovery Centre (Centrum Poznawcze), this exhibition gives visitors an overview of Centennial Hall’s construction, its history and its place in the pantheon of modern architecture. Most of the information is conveyed via nifty touch-screen displays covering topics as varied as Breslau architects, skyscrapers, various world exhibitions, Polish UNESCO sites, and a lot more related to architecture and Wrocław specifically. In addition to the permanent exhibit, Discovery Centre includes a gallery for temporary exhibitions and the option of a light and sound show under the dome. Using video-mapping technology (unfortunately down for servicing and maintenance as we’re sending this guide to the printing house), the dome of the Hall comes to life with a stunningly complex light show that emphasises the uniqueness of the structure and is creatively choreographed to original music. Despite its size (the permanent exhibition only covers two small rooms), there is much to learn and discover, so allot almost two hours for your visit.QN‑6, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 51 50, www.halastulecia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. From November open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed the first Monday of every month. Admission 12/9zł, permanent exhibit plus Centennial Hall 14/11zł. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. 42 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Wrocław Fountain

WROCŁAW FOUNTAIN Just left of Centennial Hall’s main entrance you’ll find the ‘Pergola’ - a colossal, semi-circular, ivy-covered colonnade winding around one of the city’s most popular attractions - the multimedia fountain. Unveiled in June 2009, Wrocław’s fountain projects water up to 40 metres high through an array of 300 different nozzles which have the ability to rotate, gyrate, pulse and even create a 700 square metre screen of water on which animated projections can be displayed; all the while music orchestrates the show through the park’s speakers. You can see the show for free from May until the end of September; the fountain comes to life hourly starting from 10:00 (the timing of the last show changes each month), and performances vary from 3.5 to 18 minutes with a programme of classical, modern, and pop music. The real stunners happen just after dark on Fri, Sat, and Sun, when the full functionality of the fountain is on display. QO‑5, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.wroclawskafontanna.pl. JAPANESE GARDEN Just north of Centennial Hall, the Japanese Garden was established in 1913 as part of the Artistic Gardening Exhibition which accompanied the centennial celebrations and was originally the work of Count Fritz von Hochberg and Mankichi Arai. Despite its own share of devastation, the arrangement of the garden and its system of small streams are part of its over-one-hundred-year-old legacy. Two symbolic water cascades which merge into one large pond comprise the main attractions of these small, but exquisitely manicured gardens – one of the most tranquil escapes in the city.QO‑5, ul. Mickiewicza (Park Szczytnicki). Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 4/2zł.

Japanese Garden

Photo by Slawek Ilski, CC BY 3.0

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Wrocław’s Waterways BOAT RENTAL & RIVER CRUISES

The history of Wrocław is firmly tied to the water that gives it life: the mighty Oder and its many tributaries. Used for transportation, defence, and a source of power harnessed by numerous watermills, the capricious river would also wreak regular havoc on the city, and attempts to tame it resulted in a multi-century engineering saga. The current Wrocław Water Node, a complex hydrotechnical system of floodgates, barrages, canals, dams, and other contraptions, is Poland’s largest metropolitan hydro node. Spanning the waterways are over 100 bridges (the exact count varies depending on whom you ask), earning Wrocław the nickname ‘Venice of the North’, a title shared with so many other cities (a good forty) that it has lost practically all meaning. All this water is not just strategically useful, it also provides ample opportunities for recreation and merriment, from beach bars to kayaking to river cruises. The heart of Wrocław’s waterways surrounds a cluster of six small islands nestled between the city centre, Ostrów Tumski, and the Nadodrze district. Acting as an extension of the Old Town, the islands provide Wroclavians with some much needed lebensraum to picnic, BBQ, and stretch out in the sun. Just to the west of those sits the ‘Burgher Meadow’ (Kępa Mieszczańska), a larger island housing a marina with a few high-end restaurants (OK Wine Bar, p.61; Marina, p. 60; Przystań, p.61) and two of Wrocław’s hydroelectric power plants. You’ll also find many of the city’s main sights along the river, including the Wrocław University (p.32), Hala Targowa (p.34), and Ostrów Tumski (p.36), once an island before Odra’s course was altered due to flooding concerns.

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FUNBOAT Available until the end of October. This slick little catamaran not only offers 40min/25zł sightseeing cruises departing from Przystań Funboat (near Przystań Kardynalska and Bulwar Włostowica) every hour on the hour, but it’s also available for private hire, which we’re telling you now is a winning idea for company parties, stag groups, or any group of up to 14 people. It’s also cleared to poodle around after dark, so put the party lights on and turn the music up.QH‑4, Przystań Funboat, tel. (+48) 885 50 25 02, www.funboat. pl. Available 11:00 - 19:00; after 19:00 by prior arrangement only. Private hire: weekdays 450zł for 1h, 400zł for each additional hour, weekends 550zł for 1h, 500zł for each additional hour. PASSENGER CRUISES So elaborate are the Oder River waterways around Wrocław’s Old Town that this outfit offers an array of river routes from three different harbours. 40-50 minute panoramic river cruises are available leaving from Przystań Kardynalska on Piasek Island (G-4), Przystań Zwierzyniecka (ul. Wróblewskiego 1, M-6), and the Wrocław Zoo (N-7) for the reasonable rate of 15-25zł; note that a minimum of 10-15 people are required to cast off. All vessels are available for private hire as well (prices negotiated by phone), as are kayaks, canoes, and other small boats.QM‑6, ul. Wróblewskiego 1, tel. (+48) 609 20 08 67, www.statekpasazerski.pl. SZLAK GONDOLI Available until the end of October. One of the most clever things you can do on a sunny day in Wrocław is prepare a picnic, head here and rent yourself a kayak (15zł/hr), rowing boat (25zł/hr) or motorboat (80zł/hr). Szlak Gondoli also operate two water trams through the tiny canals of the Old Town; these run from 12:0020:00 weekdays and 10:00-20:00 weekends between Zatoka Gondoli (H/I-5), Wyspa Słodowa (G-3), and the Zoo (N-7), and tickets cost 15zł for 30min trips, 25zł for 55min trips.QH‑5, ul. Purkyniego 9 (Zatoka Gondoli), tel. (+48) 791 12 28 58, www.gondole.eu. Open from 10:00 till dusk. WRATISLAVIA Cruise the river year-round while enjoying an a la carte lunch menu on Poland’s largest inland vessel departing from its harbour on Bulwar X. Dunikowskiego daily at 12:00, 14:00, and 16:00. Past 18:00 the ship docks for the night and becomes a stationary restaurant. Do note that at least 30 passengers need to be present for the cruise to take place.QG‑4, Wratislavia Harbour, Bulwar Xawerego Dunikowskiego (near Hala Targowa), tel. (+48) 535 16 15 35, www.statekrestauracja.pl.

Photo by Jar.ciurus, CC BY-SA 3.0 PL

September – December 2018

Jewish Wrocław

Monument of Wrocław’s former main synagogue, ul. Łąkowa 6.

Wrocław’s Jewish community is one of the oldest in today’s Poland, dating back to the 12th century when the city was an important trade centre along the Amber Road. Though consistently confronted with persecution, Jews have steadily played a role in the development of the city. By the end of the 19th century, in fact, the Jewish community was so well integrated into Breslau society that many Jews had achieved leading positions in academic and scientific circles; at the time, these men were not considered any less German than they were Jewish. Breslau (as it was then known) possessed the second largest synagogue in Germany and its Jewish community was the third largest in the country with numbers that had risen to 30,000 by the time Hitler came to power. It doesn’t require much detail from us to know what befell Breslau’s wartime Jewish population. The city’s once magnificent main synagogue - torched on Kristallnacht (November 9, 1938) – says enough, with only a small memorial remembering where it once stood at ul. Łąkowa 6 (A-4). What less people are aware of is that after the war when German Breslau became Polish Wrocław, the city’s Jewish population actually increased dramatically beyond its pre-war levels as the city accepted some 70,000 Jews displaced by the war – many from the Soviet Union. Ironically, Wrocław’s Jewish population reached its peak immediately after WWII; however, the anti-minority politics of the Soviet Union slowly shrank their numbers until they had been forced out of Poland completely by 1968. Since the fall of the Soviet Union that number has been resurgent again and today there are some 1,000 Jews living in Wrocław, part of a gradual transition from tracing the past 44 Wrocław In Your Pocket

to plotting the future which culminated in May 2010 with the symbolic reopening of the White Stork Synagogue. OLD JEWISH CEMETERY Established in 1856, this 4.6 hectare cemetery is perhaps the most well-preserved testament to the former strength of Breslau’s pre-war Jewish community, with over 1200 gravestones. Closed in 1942, the cemetery quickly fell into deep neglect: in 1945 it was turned into a fortress by the Nazis and saw fierce fighting as evidenced by the eerie bullet holes in many of the gravestones. Preservation began in the 1970s and in 1991 it was opened as the Museum of Jewish Cemetery Art in tribute to the craftsmanship of its sepulchral art. Indeed the beauty and diversity of styles and symbols on display is perhaps unmatched anywhere. Many noteworthy figures are buried here, including the renowned biologist Ferdinand Cohn, the historian Heinrich Graetz (author of the first complete history of the Jews), Clara Immerwahl (first female PhD student at the University of Breslau, and wife

TOURS & INFORMATION THE BENTE KAHAN FOUNDATION Founded in 2006 to accomplish the renovation of the Synagogue, this outfit organises the monthly events that take place there, including exhibitions, film screenings, workshops, lectures, concerts, theatre performances, and more. For info about Jewish events in Wrocław, start here.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 782 81 23, www.fbk.org.pl. iyp.me/wroclaw

Jewish Wrocław of Fritz Haber, who committed suicide in objection to her husband’s work developing chemical warfare), Ferdinand Lassalle (founder and leader of the first labour party in Germany, killed in a duel), and the parents of Edith Stein; using old records some of their tombstones are slowly being restored. However, despite these modest efforts the Ślężna Street Cemetery remains a completely mysterious and evocative sanctuary of decaying vine-covered monuments, the broken pieces of which are stacked against each other, giving shelter to stray cats and shade to wildflowers. Well worth a visit, a highly informative accompanying booklet (in Polish, English or German) makes it even more so, despite being overpriced at 15zł.QE‑12, ul. Ślężna 37/39, tel. (+48) 71 791 59 04, www.mmw.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. From November open 09:00 - 16:00. THE WHITE STORK SYNAGOGUE The only synagogue in Wrocław to escape the torches of Kristallnacht, the White Stork was built in 1829, taking its name from the inn that once stood in its place. Following the design of prominent German architect Karl Ferdinand Langhans, it is ironically considered a sterling example of 18th century Protestant sacral art. Discreetly hidden from view in a courtyard between ul. Antoniego and ul. Włodkowica, today the surrounding grounds are full of beer gardens, bohemians, and tourists; however, it was here that members of the Jewish community were rounded up for deployment to the death camps during WWII. Badly damaged, but not set ablaze (thanks only to its proximity to residential buildings), the synagogue was literally left to rot after the war, before the Jewish community was finally able to recover it from the Polish government in 1996 and initiate restoration. Re-opened in May 2010, the synagogue now serves as a worship space, cultural centre, and branch of the Jewish Information Centre, with a new multi-functional hall in the synagogue’s basement and two exhibition spaces on the balconies. One houses a permanent exhibition about the History of Jews in Wrocław and Lower Silesia, while the second balcony is for temporary exhibitions.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 7, tel. (+48) 504 90 53 58, www.wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 -16:00. Closed Sat. Opening hours subject to change depending on their events calendar. Admission free.

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DISTRICT OF MUTUAL RESPECT To Wrocław’s other accolades you can attach one more curious addition: within a mere 400 metres of the city’s historic Old Town one can find the houses of worship of four different religious denominations – a spatial and spiritual arrangement unique in Poland, and as far as we’re aware, all of Europe. Dubbed the ‘District of Mutual Respect,’ or also commonly the ‘District of Four Denominations,’ the anomalous area includes three churches - Lutheran, Orthodox, and Roman Catholic - and a Jewish synagogue almost side-byside in a short crescent curling along the promenade where the city’s (now demolished) defensive fortifications once stood (D-5/6, E-6). THE BACKSTORY Granted, Wrocław has no shortage of churches, and like the rest of PL, its population is predominantly Roman Catholic; the city is the seat of an Archdiocese, after all. However, it wasn’t always so. In fact at the turn of the 20th century Wrocław (then known as ‘Breslau’) was predominantly Protestant – one of the only cities in Silesia to be so. Forced post-WWII resettlements and migrations continued Wrocław’s tradition of diversity as people from Poland’s former eastern territories (yoinked by the USSR) were herded into cattle cars and transferred to the ‘recovered territories’ of PL’s new western border (one of Germany’s primary post-war penalties). Wrocław was christened the ‘Second Lwów’ as Germans were exiled and a large influx of Greek Catholics and Orthodox Christians of Ukrainian and Lemko descent drastically changed the cultural and religious makeup of the city once again. 20,000 Jewish survivors also represented a significant influx, but as a result of discrimination and the ever-present fear of pogroms by 1970 their numbers had dwindled to almost nil. HOORAY FOR HOOLIGANS - OR ‘PROGRAMMES, NOT POGROMS’ Though in existence for decades, the District of Mutual Respect was truly born in 1995 when a stone came hurtling through one of the stained glass windows of the Roman Catholic Church on ul. Św. Antoniego, almost striking the sister of the parish’s pastor, Father Jerzy Żytowiecki. Days later another stone was thrown at an icon outside the Orthodox church on ul. Św. Mikołaja, prompting Jerzy Kichler – a Jewish community leader who bore witness to the event – to go have a word with Father Żytowiecki. Soon the resultant dialogue was extended to the leaders of all four temples, and after several meetings they were all committed to creating a culture of communication and cooperation within their closely-knit community, the area of which they dubbed the ‘Four Temples District,’ ‘District of Tolerance,’ and ‘District of Reconciliation’ before agreeing upon the District of Mutual Respect. September – December 2018

Wrocław’s Gnomes After the eventual fall of communism in Poland, gnomes remained a symbol of Wrocław, repurposed by the new government to be a tribute to the Orange Movement, as well as playful, family-friendly ambassadors of the city.

Photo by Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office, Muncipality of Wrocław

One of Wrocław’s most popular, memorable and iconic attractions is not a cathedral, castle or monument, but a legion of little people: gnomes, or ‘krasnale’ (in local parlance), to be precise. In Wrocław’s city centre these merry munchkins are simply ubiquitous - dotting doorways, alleyways and street corners; constantly underfoot but only seen by the observant. You may well overlook the first dozen or so that cross your path, but inevitably and often literally - you will stumble upon these popular local residents. Keep your eyes peeled and you’re bound to notice the little fellas engaged in a variety of activities about town - from guarding public space to passed-out drunk. Beloved by locals and tourists alike, and the object of more photos than the towering Cathedral, these prolific pranksters have become the unlikely symbol of one of PL’s most picturesque cities. Although it sounds like little more than a twee tourist gimmick, Wrocław’s gnomes actually have a direct correlation to the political climate of the 1980s. Under communism gnomes became the absurdist calling card of the ‘Orange Alternative’ - an underground protest movement that used absurdity and nonsense to stage peaceful, yet subversive protests. Armed with paint cans and led by Waldemar ‘Major’ Fydrych, an artist and student at Wrocław University, the group started out by ridiculing the establishment’s attempts to censor public space. During communism, any anti-establishment graffiti or public art was quickly painted over by the militia; upon seeing fresh daubs of paint, the pranksters of the Orange Alternative quickly painted over them yet again...with gnomes. As the cheeky movement gained popularity, gnomes began to appear in demonstrations as well, with Major Fydrych handing out iconic peaked orange gnome hats to passing pedestrians and leading nonsensical marches for gnomes’ rights. The resulting arrests of orangeclad and ridiculous-looking gnomes, plus dozens of bystanders detained for also wearing red, often made the nightly news and succeeded in making the authorities look idiotic. The movement caught on across the country, and soon gnomes were appearing in other major cities as well. 46 Wrocław In Your Pocket

The first gnome statuette was Papa Krasnal (the largest of his progeny), who was placed on the corner of ul. Świdnicka and ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (E-6), where Orange Alternative demonstrations often took place, to celebrate the history of the Orange Alternative in 2001. Things really took off in 2005, however, when local artist Tomasz Moczek - a graduate of the Wrocław Academy of Fine Arts - was commissioned by Wrocław City Council to create five more gnomes. The little devils proved so popular that envious local businesses quickly got in on the game by contracting other local artists to produce more, and in almost no time at all gnomes had proliferated around Wrocław to the point that they now constitute a veritable ‘sub-population’ of the city. The little buggers are currently rumoured to be running rampant to the score of over 300(!), making it literally impossible for us to try and keep track of them, or for visitors to try to find all of them on their own. Seeing how many gnomes you can spot while you’re in Wrocław, however, is an incredibly fun alternative to traditional sightseeing, and a great way to keep the kids involved while tramping around town. To help you out we’ve included 25 of our favourite gnomes on our website, with the exact address and GPS coordinates of their location; head to iyp.me/gnomes to easily find some of the city’s most popular gnomes on your smartphone.

Courtesy of the Muncipality of Wrocław

If that’s not enough, you can also pick up a special map from tourist information (Rynek 14, E-5) showing where to find 30 of the most centrally located gnomes, and there is even a special, dual-language (Polish and English) website dedicated to Wrocław’s gnomes - www.krasnale.pl - where you can find their history, photos and other information, including downloadable maps of their various locations. Spend an afternoon as a gnome-watcher and see how many of these mischievous miscreants you can spot as you stroll around town. Happy hunting! iyp.me/wroclaw

Museums MUSEUMS ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM Like many of the best museums in Poland, Wrocław’s Archaeological Museum is located inside a building that’s a museum in itself. In this instance the city’s former 15th-century Arsenal plays host to the usual suspects found lurking in most museums of its type. There are English captions now for many exhibits, while others, such as the gargoyles and the reconstructed thatched house fascinate without the need to know more. With four free permanent exhibits - Stone Age and early Bronze Age, Bronze Age, Iron Age and Medieval Silesia, displays include everyday objects from these times such as weapons, ornaments and tools; note that temporary exhibits sometimes require an additional paid ticket. In the same building you’ll also find the Military Museum. QE‑4, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibitions; temporary exhibits 15/10zł. U ARCHITECTURE MUSEUM A unique exhibition inside the gorgeous 16thcentury former Bernadine monastery, the city’s architecture museum is more of a record of all that was lost in the city during WWII than a true museum of architecture. Permanent displays include beautiful examples of stained glass from the 12th century through to some spectacular Art Nouveau pieces, a breathtaking collection of tiled ceramic stoves, intricate door handles, Turkish floor tiles, and a selection of truly ghastly gargoyles. There’s a large model of the city as it was in 1740, which clearly shows its status as a fortress surrounded by water, and the occasional temporary exhibit to keep the eyes peeled for.QH‑5, ul. Bernardyńska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78, www.ma.wroc.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł, groups over 10 people 5zł per person. Wed free. U ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Located outside the Old Town in the gorgeous 18thcentury Neo-Baroque summer palace of Wrocław’s bishops, this under-appreciated museum traces Silesian folk culture and customs. The best part may be the top floor where life-sized dolls are arranged in quaint scenes of life in the region before 1945. It won’t take you long to see it, but the national costumes and farm equipment offer a glimpse of life you won’t find in urban Wrocław. And the museum’s strange fondness for the definite article in the English labels is worth a giggle. To get there take tram 3 from ‘Rynek,’ getting off at ‘Pl. Zgody.’QJ‑8, ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13, www. muzeumetnograficzne.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8zł, children under 7 free, groups of over 10 pay 5zł per person, Sat free. Admission free with a ticket to the Racławice Panorama. NU iyp.me/polandblog

KONSPIRA In addition to being a fantastic Polish restaurant, Konspira is a self-declared ‘Centre for Historical Education.’ The interior is designed to emulate the 1980s, while giving guests a glimpse into the Soviet era via newspapers, posters, political cartoons and other iconography on the walls.In fact, one of the restaurant’s wardrobes is actually a secret passageway into a hidden room that recreates an ‘80s Polish apartment, filled with everyday household items, toys, appliances, and even police batons and riot gear from the martial law days. It’s a unique look into the past, and the fact that the staff isn’t that forthcoming about it (you might have to ask) almost makes the act of entry feel cooly clandestine. This entire establishment is a bit of a museum, and though you’ll get more out of it with a local guide, even without one it’s worth investigating; and the food is certainly worth staying for.QE‑5, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 796 32 66 00, www.konspira.org. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. September – December 2018

Museums RACŁAWICE PANORAMA This unique 15 by 140m panoramic painting depicts the first battle of the Kościuszko Uprising, in which General Tadeusz Kościuszko orchestrated and led an armed peasant rebellion against Russian rule in a heroic bid for Polish independence in 1794. Kosciuszko’s rag-tag scythe-wielding troops won the day, but the Uprising was ultimately doomed and Poland wouldn’t be truly self-governing until the 20th century. That hasn’t stopped the short-lived victory from being an enduring source of Polish pride to this day, however. The Panorama was created in a burst of patriotic fervour by Jan Styka and Wojciech Kossak in Lwów over 9 months, and completed in 1894. Their work, displayed in a rotunda built especially for it, was a popular and financial - success. After WWII, the Soviet Union, which absorbed Lwów (now Lviv, Ukraine), sent the painting to Wrocław. Its subject, however, was a bit too nationalistic for the local Communist authorities, who rejected several bids to display it. The current building was completed in 1967, but the Panorama itself was not installed for display until 1985. Unfortunately almost nothing has changed since then, and the overpriced attraction is run in the same manner it was 30 years ago. Still, an unbelievable 1,600 people (including dozens of school groups) file through each day, so don’t expect to just walk right in; admission occurs every half-hour and you’ll very likely have to wait. The painting is augmented with lights and artificial terrain to make the experience more ‘real’ as you are narrated through the battle by a taped lecture on your own private headset which is available in an astounding 17 languages (including Esperanto). Poles will consider it their patriotic duty to come here, but the experience may resonate less positively with other tourists, unless you’re a fan of obscure and forgotten genres of 19th century art.QH‑5, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 71 344 23 44, www.panoramaraclawicka.pl. Open 08:00 19:30. From November open 9:00 - 16:30, Sat 9:00 - 18:30, Sun 9:00 - 17:30. Admission 30/23zł, family ticket 23zł per person, children under 7 free. U

Detail of Kościuszko directing his rag-tag army.

48 Wrocław In Your Pocket

National Museum

MILITARY MUSEUM The other half of the 15th-century arsenal that houses the Archaeology Museum is, appropriately, the Military Museum. Not surprisingly, the medieval halls are filled with arms and weapons of all sorts, many of them dating to the 18th century. Helmets, swords, and guns are the forte here, and you probably know better than we do if it’s worth the hour of your time it’ll consume.QE‑4, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibits; temporary exhibits 15/10zł. NATIONAL MUSEUM Located in a gorgeous ivy-covered Dutch Neo-Renaissance building from the 19th century, Wrocław’s National Museum houses one of the largest collections of Polish art. There are five permanent exhibits: Silesian Art of the 12-16th centuries (including lots of stone sculpture work and medieval religious art), Silesian Art of the 16-19th centuries (covering the Renaissance up to the beginnings of Modernism), Polish Art of the same period (including national artefacts and historical paintings by Gierymski, Grottger, Malczewski and Matejko), European Art of the 1520th centuries (following the leading artistic movements with work by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, Agnolo Bronzino, Cosimo Rosselli, Raphael’s father Giovanni Santi, and Wassily Kandinsky), and masterpieces of Eastern handicraft (displayed in the building’s attic). While the collections may not be the best in Europe, the interior is breathtaking, and there is a certain aura to the setting that makes this a must for art history buffs.QI‑5, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50, www.mnwr.art.pl. Open 10:00 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From October open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł for permanent exhibition, students under 26 (with ID) 1zł, family/group 10zł per person, Sat free. 10/5zł for temporary exhibition, family/group 7zł per person, combined ticket 25/17zł. Admission free with a ticket from the nearby Racławice Panorama. U NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Halls full of massive skeletons, stuffed animal corpses posed on fake landscapes, butterflies pinned to boards - all natural iyp.me/wroclaw

Museums history museums are gloomy places and this is no exception. The collection was founded as part of the University of Wrocław in 1811 and moved to its own building in 1906. The entire collection was destroyed in World War II, but has been replaced since and now numbers about three million animals and half a million plants. You won’t find almost any info in English, but for bio-buffs it’s the Latin that matters, right? Four permanent exhibits in total - World of Plants, World of Animals, Insects & Humans, and Skeletal System. QH‑3, ul. Sienkiewicza 21, tel. (+48) 71 375 41 45, www. muzeum-przyrodnicze.uni.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł. N PAN TADEUSZ MUSEUM Find out more than you ever thought you would about Polish bard Adam Mickiewicz (and his times) at this new, more inviting branch of Wrocław’s Ossolineum, occupying some prime market square real estate with super-modern, multi-lingual, multimedia museum exhibits. Pride of place goes to the original manuscript of Mickiewicz’s epic poem Pan Tadeusz (from which the museum takes its name), surrounded by hundreds of historical objects, digital documents and photos, 3D animation and augmented reality displays - a fantastic way to learn about Romantic era Poland, even if you have little interest in poetry itself. Other exhibits focus on 20th-century history via the life stories of Polish patriots Jan Nowak-Jeziorański and Władysław Bartoszewski, who both left large collections to the Ossolineum upon their passing. A limited number of free audioguides will be available to augment the exhibits.QE‑5, Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 71 755 06 00, www. muzeumpanatadeusza.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/10zł or 12/6zł to see only the manuscript. Sun 1zł. POST & COMMUNICATIONS MUSEUM Housed inside 1929’s former Central Post Office, this magnificent building was one of the first high-rises in Wrocław and is easily recognisable from the Old Town thanks to the crown of satellite dishes on its roof. Today it houses one of the city’s most idiosyncratic and fascinating museums, displaying the complex history of Poland’s postal service and the development of communications technology from the 16th century to the present day. Over two floors you’ll see a wealth of paintings and graphics, postage stamps, mailboxes, mail carriages, uniforms, decorative letter scales, and other instruments including early telegram machines, telephones, radios, and computers. The unique and engrossing experience even includes information in English and is a great way to change your attitude towards PL’s postal service from one of frustration to admiration and wonder. Visiting takes about 1 hour and is recommended. English and German language guided group tours are available if arranged in advance.QH‑6, ul. Krasińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 65, www.muzeum. wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 20zł, Sat free. Groups over 10 people 5zł per person. iyp.me/polandblog

The Depot History Centre

THE DEPOT HISTORY CENTRE This old bus depot has been brilliantly transformed into a two-floor museum telling the history of Wrocław after WWII. Opened in September 2016, the large open space has been cleverly refitted with intimate museum displays that recreate historical spaces and settings to lead the viewer through major moments in Poland’s postwar history. The rebuilding and repopulating of Wrocław is well-covered, as is the country’s reckoning with communism, martial law, and the story of the Solidarity movement. The modern multimedia displays are extremely informative in English and Polish, and in addition to the permanent exhibit (titled ‘Wrocław 1945-2016’), there are also changing temporary exhibits, an outdoor gallery and a play area for kids. Reserve at least 90mins for the exhibits, and don’t miss the restaurant, which serves delicious traditional Polish food in People’s Republic style - the pierogi are some of the best in town. Located well southwest of the Old Town, it’s only appropriate that you should take public transportation here (ideally the number 4 tram from ‘Świdnicka,’ getting off at ‘Bzowa (Centrum Zajezdnia)’; journey takes 20mins. Qul. Grabiszyńska 184, tel. (+48) 71 715 96 02, www. zajezdnia.org. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł. U THE HENRYK TOMASZEWSKI MUSEUM OF THEATHER Dedicated to the history of theatre in Wrocław, with a special focus on one of its brightest stars - dancer, mime, and stage director Henryk Tomaszewski - the Museum of Theater suspended its ‘permanent’ exhibition in summer 2018 to make room for a large Salvador Dalí & Andy Warhol exhibit (p.22), which will stay open until the end of September. After that the regular exhibits will be back, including reconstructions of Tomaszewski’s apartment and the office of theatre historian Professor Janusz Degler, including his impressive collection of theatre-related books.QA‑4, Plac Wolności 7A, tel. (+48) 793 80 44 12, www.muzeum.miejskie.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:30 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00, Closed Mon. Admission to “Dali, Warhol – Versatile Genius” 40/30zł, family ticket 100zł. From October admission free to permanent exhibitions. September – December 2018

Museums HYDROPOLIS

Just about halfway between the Old Town and the Centennial Hall you’ll find a 1893 neo-Gothic water tank turned high-tech multimedia museum dedicated - most appropriately - to the very stuff it used to hold. Divided into eight thematic parts and started off with a short 360-degree film which takes you from the Big Bang to nucleosynthesis to the formation of planets to the origin of Earth’s aqua, Hydropolis is a friendlyfor-all-ages discovery zone where visitors can peek at creatures found in a drop of water, spin an Archimedes’ screw, sit in a replica of the Trieste bathyscaphe, which made a descent to the bottom of the Mariana Trench in 1960, or kick back in the sea-sounds-andbioluminescent-jellyfish relaxation space. Informative and impressively designed, this is one experience we wholeheartedly recommend. To get here, take tram number 3 from Rynek or Galeria Dominikańska to pl. Zgody, then backtrack a bit and turn right on ul. Szybka; you’ll cross a small bridge before hitting ul. Na Grobli, at which point the museum will be on your right. QK‑7, ul. Na Grobli 19-21, tel. (+48) 71 340 95 15, www.hydropolis.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 27/18zł, family ticket 72zł.

50 Wrocław In Your Pocket

THE ROYAL PALACE, HISTORY MUSEUM The main branch of the Wrocław City Museum, housed inside the renovated Baroque Royal Palace, is Wrocław’s most essential museum. Purchased by Frederick the Great of Prussia in 1750, the palace was converted to become the royal residence of the Prussian Hohenzolern kings - a function which it served from the 17th to 20th century. Badly damaged during WWII, only half of the structure survived and now houses three free permanent exhibitions: ‘1000 Years of Wrocław’, tracing the complex history of the Lower Silesian capital from the Middle Ages to the modern day through its art and artefacts; the meticulously recreated royal apartments; and the unique Beyersdorf Room, decorated entirely in Dutch tiles from the 17th century. It takes the better part of a day to see it all, but there’s a nice cafe when you need a break, and make sure you don’t miss the regal Baroque gardens behind the palace.QE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35, tel. (+48) 71 391 69 40, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission free for permanent exhibits. English-speaking guided tour 400zł. Audio guides in English and German 10 zł. U

Photo by Garzena, CC BY-SA 3.0

WROCŁAW CONTEMPORARY MUSEUM This old air raid shelter just west of the Old Town has been resurrected as a place for contemporary art in Wrocław. The round and concrete above-ground bunker has been cleverly adapted with an elevator at its centre which whizzes you up to the fantastic 6th floor cafe, which features a terrace and great views, and may just be the highlight of visiting here. As for the art, the permanent exhibit focuses on contemporary art from the 20th century with a strong Wrocław presence and they have numerous temporary exhibitions (see our Culture & Events section to see what’s on). The most striking pieces in the whole collection are outside the museum itself. Local artist Stanisław Dróżdż’s Hour-glass on the facade of the building and the amazing and enormous Train to Heaven sculpture of a vertical locomotive nearby will make you get your camera out. To get there, hop on trams 3, 10, 20, 23, or 33 (quite a bit of choice there) at the ‘Rynek’ stop, getting off 3 stops later at ‘Pl. Strzegomski.’QPl. Strzegomski 2A (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibits; temporary exhibits 10/5zł, family ticket available, children under 6 free. Thu free. U iyp.me/wroclaw

Museums

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September â&#x20AC;&#x201C; December 2018

Cafés

Breakfast in Central Cafe

AMORINIO.PL This colourful Italian cafe offers enough sundaes, shakes, and other sweet treats to make all the teeth of a shark fall out in ecstasy. Seriously, the sheer variety of desserts available here is awe-inspiring and makes deciding a challenging conundrum (don’t worry, there’s no incorrect choice). The modern design is eclectic, but smart, with exposed bricks, wallpaper disguised as tile mosaic, and a subtle angel theme. A great place to take the kids; if you’ve overdone the sweets there is also a range of savoury quiches and crepes.QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 44, www.amorinio. pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. From October open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. T6W NEW BEMA CAFE (PLAC SOLNY) Our favourite Nadodrze cafe has conveniently grown an offshoot right in city centre, on Plac Solny. Bright and smart (though the fake tree decorations are a bit weird), they do great coffee and breakfast, which comes in such tasty forms as porridge with maple syrup and banana, sunny-side-up eggs with bread and a selection of pastes (hummus, smashed avocado, sun-dried tomato, homemade orange marmalade), omelettes with various toppings, and more. There’s also plenty of tasty cake and a lunchtime menu of bagel sandwiches, salads, and quiche of the day. QE‑5, Plac Solny 4, tel. (+48) 71 302 75 21, www.bemacafe.pl. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 22:00. 6W 52 Wrocław In Your Pocket

CENTRAL CAFE Around the corner from Pasaż Niepolda and open early here’s a good place to start your day. This American-style bakery cafe offers a blackboard menu (in Polish and English) with plenty of familiar breakfast options, including pancakes with maple syrup, bagels and cream cheese, yoghurt with granola and honey, oatmeal loaded with yummy toppings, pastries, cupcakes, quiche, pastrami, and more. Of course, there’s coffee and smoothies as well, plus plenty of space to park it and observe the cute clientele enjoying their oatmeal until your eyes are sufficiently wide enough to take your sightseeing back into town. The spacious, high-ceilinged, classic interior also serves as a great place to work or discuss business.QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 794 96 23, www.centralcafe.pl. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. TU6W ETNO CAFE Etno Cafe is a Wrocław institution, bravely fending off competition from foreign chains like Starbucks, Costa, and Green Cafe Nero while continuing to open new locations around the city. Founded by Ethiopian ecotoxicology PhD student Natnael Tesfaye Hamda and his Polish friends, the Etno brand began as a coffee importer and roaster, sourcing beans straight from Ethiopia. Their first cafe opened in 2015 inside the tiny cult venue Okrąglak, a somewhat mysterious and decidedly cylindrical pre-WWII building on Pl. Kościuszki. A year later the cafe got to star in a slightly cringy music video for C-BooL’s song Never Go Away, and meanwhile Etno were busy branching out into other locations. As of 2018, they have put down roots in five Polish cities; in Wrocław, find them at the OVO iyp.me/wroclaw

Cafés building (ul. Podwale 83, H-6), near the main train station (ul. Piłsudskiego 101, F-8), and in the Pasaż Grunwaldzki (plac Grunwaldzki 22, K-4) and Wroclavia (ul. Sucha 1, F-9) shopping malls.QE‑7, Okrąglak, Pl. Kościuszki, tel. (+48) 71 307 10 03, www.etnocafe.pl. Open 07:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 20:30, Sun 10:30 - 19:00. 6W NEW FUTURENET CAFE Ok, this is a truly bizarre one. Situated right on the main square, this upscale cafe and restaurant is run by FutureNet, a company as, hm, cryptic as the name might imply. Because we’re probably not allowed to call it the phrase starting with p and ending with yramid scheme, we’ll just say it’s a multi-level marketing business which even created their own cryptocurrency, the FuturoCoin, a cardboard depiction of which you’ll get with your check. The target demographic appears to be FutureNet members, who can meet each other face to face, recruit new souls, and bask in the exclusive atmosphere reflecting their anticipated future riches. We’ll leave you to decide what to make of all this. QF-5, Rynek 46/47, www.futurenetrestaurants.com. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. GISELLE FRENCH BAKERY CAFE This simple, modern, somewhat standard-seeming cafe may not be particularly original, but plays its role as French cafe and foreign-friendly breakfast spot exceptionally well. With excellent coffee, huge cappuccinos, chai lattes, quiche, fresh bread and a range of French pastries baked on site, sandwiches and one of the best breakfast offers we’ve seen in PL, everything Giselle does it does very well. English menus and big wooden tables that can accommodate groups only make it easier to recommend for visitors, while wine and wifi make it popular with locals who walk in with something on their arm - be it a lady or a laptop.QF‑5, ul. Szewska 27, tel. (+48) 71 725 55 62, www.bistrogiselle. pl. Open 07:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. T6W KOFEINA BY INCOGNITO This cafe and breakfast spot right on Plac Solny has a beautiful, airy exposed-brick interior and recently teamed up with the mobile pastry shop Słodki Chłopak in what we think is a great collaboration. However, while the coffee is good and the cakes look pretty, this is also home of the weakest shakshouka we’ve chanced upon in shakshouka-obsessed Poland - the eggs were made separately sunny side up and plonked on some flavorless tomato concoction (c’mon, you didn’t even try). Grab brekkie in Dinette and come here for a lazy chat over coffee instead, then head to the speakeasy hidden away in the basement, Cocktail Bar by Incognito. QE‑5, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 730 93 12 02. Open 08:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. 6W NEW PALOMA Our new favourite. Located right on Plac Solny, this Ukrainian-owned specialty coffee shop and roaster is a lovely, laptopper-friendly space decorated in an iyp.me/polandblog

COFFEE ICE CREAM CAKES Wrocław ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2 www.amorinio.pl

industrial aesthetic, serving absolutely delectable coffee. Apart from the standard list of espresso-based drinks, you’ll find pour-over, V6, Aeropress, and Chemex brews (choose from Rwandan, Ethiopian, and Kenyan beans), espresso affogato, Viennese coffee, Thai coffee, and more, as well as a limited selection of breakfast options (porridge, granola, croissants). They even occasionally organise cupping sessions and open coffee roasting - check their facebook for more info.QE-5, Plac Solny 8-9, tel. (+48) 881 33 12 28. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. TU6W VINYL CAFE This groovy little cafe is an obvious labour of love, and old school audiophiles will literally feel right at home with the living room arrangement around the hi-fi record player. Full of cosy armchairs, crates of vinyl LPs and shelves of books, come in, pick out a 45, curl up with a coffee or beer and a book and you’ve got yourself the perfect afternoon. The sound system is state-of-the-art, their extensive record collection ranges from Dizzy Gillespie to Devendra Banhart, and bonus points for the policy of making sure a side plays all the way to the end before it gets changed. The coffee comes in big mugs, sweets are on hand, there’s a strong selection of Czech beers, wine and cider, and you can also buy and trade records here. A second home to many.QF‑5, ul. Kotlarska 35-36/1A, tel. (+48) 508 26 02 88. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. TU6W September – December 2018

Restaurants

Pinto Per-Peri (p.43)

The diversity and quality of restaurants in Wrocław is ever improving - as is the quality of service - and the city’s respectable number of international restaurants reflects its status as a thriving urban centre. While In Your Pocket once tried to list every eatery in the city centre, the expansion of the market and sheer redundancy of many restaurants now make that pursuit impractical. In our dining section you’ll find reviews of the most noteworthy and high-profile establishments in town, from those wellhidden places you shouldn’t miss, to prime locations you should swerve. While our print guide carries a large selection of restaurants, if you can’t find it here you’ll most certainly find it on our website (wrocław.inyourpocket. com), where we list dozens more reviews and encourage you to leave your own comments about the places you’ve visited. All IYP reviews are completely subjective, unsolicited and updated regularly to ensure accuracy at press time. The figures we quote in brackets represent the least and most expensive main courses on the menu. The hours we list are not necessarily the opening hours, but rather the times between which you can expect the chef to be working. Below are some specific recommendations depending on what you might be looking for. Smacznego! SPLURGE For fine dining in an unforgettable location head to the Monopol’s rooftop Restauracja Acquario (p.62); Le Bistrot Parisien (p.57), Brasserie 27 (p.58), and Sukiennice 7 (p.63) are the city’s best-of (in our esteem, anyway). 54 Wrocław In Your Pocket

CHEAP Wrocław is full of cheap eats. With street food on the rise, we recommend places like zjemBAO (p.70), Pasibus (p.70), and Panczo (p.67). The city’s numerous vegetarian eateries (p.71) are known for their low prices, and if it’s Polish you’re after, head to Chatka Przy Jatkach (p.67) or Konspira (p.68). LADS Bernard (p.58) offers litre steins of Czech beer and plates piled high with hot snacks for sharing, while the busty maidens of the Bierhalle brewery (p.76) along with costumed gents of Pod Fredrą (p.69) will keep you plied with beer and brats until you burst your buttons. COUPLES See our picks under ‘Splurge,’ all of which will impress with their high quality food, go for dinner and a concert at Vertigo (p.63), or wine and dine on the water in OK Wine Bar (p.61). FAMILIES Kids get a kick out of dining on the water in Barka Tumska (p.58) and Wratislavia (p.63). Alternatively, have fun watching them search for the ‘secret room’ in Konspira (p.68). For further options look for the child-friendly symbol T at the end of each listing. SPECIAL DIET Plant-eaters have it good in Wrocław, just see our Vegetarian section (p.71). Vega (p.71) is right on the market square, and fine gluten-free dining can be found in La Maddalena (p.59). iyp.me/wroclaw

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY 6 Animal friendly

T Child-friendly

S Take away

N Credit cards not accepted

V Home delivery

U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking room available

B Outside seating W Wi-fi connection

AMERICAN BLT & TAPS This upscale American-inspired (free ketchup without asking! large sodas!) sandwich and salad bar deftly balances a dodgy dive-bar location (that’s a good thing) with a sharp, clean interior to great effect. The menu would hardly be inventive if not for the fact that a decent sandwich is a rare thing in this country; as such it’s a revelation. Choose from a wide range of quickly-served variations on the burger and BLT. The pizzas are delicious, the salads served on flatbread are creative, the presentation is top notch and the prices are fair and affordable across the board. Open late, so you’ve got time to get a couple cheeky ones in before stopping by, or just do your drinking here - they now offer craft beer from three taps.QE‑5, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. (+48) 71 796 33 44. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €. 6W BUTCHERY & GRILL A semi-casual steak and burger restaurant in the Sukiennice that features red and white chequered tablecloths and open views of the grillmaster at work. The steak menu is limited to about ten tourist-priced cuts imported from various corners of the world, and isn’t nearly as varied as the illustrated diagrams that rather impressively decorate the walls. Wrocław is full of places where you can order a burger these days, and after making a complete mess with one here, we left craving something better.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 6, tel. (+48) 71 342 74 62, www.butcheryandgrill.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. T6W HARD ROCK CAFE HRC doesn’t really need explaining. This legendary rock ‘n’ roll chain is opening its fourth restaurant in Poland, bringing the usual BBQ grub, alc, and music memorabilia to a prime location on the main square. The first floor is largely dedicated to clothing and accessories of music stars - including Elton John’s shoes, Beyonce’s corset, and Lady Gaga’s leather cape - as a nod towards the building’s previous role housing communist Poland’s state-owned fashion enterprise Moda Polska (Polish Fashion). Upstairs you’ll find numerous guitars, including ones used by Santana and Alice Cooper, Elvis’s microphone, and John Lennon’s 1960’s TV set. The menu is the usual romp through iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Restaurants burgers (including a very ‘Polish’ creation with white sausage and sauerkraut), ribs, fries, chicken, and alcoholic drinks.QF‑5, Rynek 25, tel. (+48) 71 726 11 40, www. hardrock.com/cafes/wroclaw. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. E6W MOABURGER Like most things from New Zealand, Moaburger is very proud, making it clear from the kiwi iconography all over the interior that this is a NZ take on the classic American burger and shake shack. As far as the food goes, they’ve certainly super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a plate just wouldn’t do) piled high with the topping of your choice, and you might even consider splitting one with a friend if you have any other meals planned later in the day. Easy to eat and darn enjoyable, though you’ll discover it’s not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries, and drink coming in over 30zł.QE‑5, Pl. Solny 10, tel. (+48) 71 330 74 82, www.moaburger.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. T6W

phone: +48 736 673 521, Hubska 72 street, Wrocław

SOCZEWKA A wide and nuanced assortment of delicious gourmet burgers on the market square, including a number of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options - how often do you get the chance to eat a mac&cheese or raviolo burger? There’s also a wide array of mojitos and whisky, and seating opposite the Town Hall or in the sharp interior. When we’re going through cheddar cheese withdrawal, this is our sanatorium; in fact, it’s hard to over-praise this place - it’s just that good.QF‑5, ul. Rynek 20/21, tel. (+48) 516 01 51 65, www.soczewka.wroclaw.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon 11:00 - 21:30, Thu 22 30, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 10:30 - 21:30. €€. T6W

ASIAN DIM SUM GARDEN The newest addition to the Ovo building, and a pretty great one. Dim Sum Garden is a cut above the rest, churning out splendid dumplings in addition to laksa (hard to find in Poland!), Peking duck, mango curry, General Tso’s chicken, XO beef, matcha lattes, and more. Feeling refined but not stiff, DSG also benefits from knowledgeable staff and a selection of unique cocktails (spicy mango, anyone?). 23zł lunch (soup+main) is served Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. Recommended.QH‑6, ul. Podwale 83, tel. (+48) 609 59 65 94. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. U6W

ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Wrocław Phone: +48 71 733 48 20 56 Wrocław In Your Pocket

OSIEM MISEK ‘Eight Bowls’, one of the most successful food trucks in Wro, has acquired a stationary restaurant in which to serve more of its tasty concoctions: lots of ramen and pad thai, plus their signature pulled pork baos, which draw folks from near and far. Unfortunately, with popularity seems to have come a decline in quality and increased wait times, issues which we sincerely hope will iron themselves out soon. QD‑5, ul. Włodkowica 27, www.osiemmisek.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TU6W iyp.me/wroclaw

Restaurants NEW W OPARACH DIM SUM BAR Small dim sum shop near the hipster Burgher Brewery (Browar Mieszczański), serving dumplings with fillings including chicken and parsley, pork and mun mushrooms, beef and kimchi, and lentils with orange rind. Also on the menu: miso soup, shrimp tom yum, wakame (seaweed) salad, and kombu (kelp) with mushrooms. Choose from 8 dumplings for 16-17zł or 12 for 24-25.50zł. QH‑11, ul. Hubska 72, tel. (+48) 736 67 35 21, www.woparach.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. T6

AZERBAIJANI NEW BAKU LOUNGE Located in Galeria Italiana, Baku Lounge seems out of place (a situation which they try to remedy by adding an Italian menu), but it doesn’t matter - as far as we know, this is the only Azerbaijani restaurant in Poland, and we would visit it no matter how bizarre the location. Where else round these parts can you get lamb lahmajoun, dolma (stuffed grape leaves), dushbara dumpling soup, qutab with greens or meat, and karnıyarık (gloriously seasoned stuffed eggplant)? Add some pitas, shashlyks, and wash it down with ayran (a yoghurt-based drink), before settling down to a shisha session - a major draw for this establishment. There’s even Turkish/Azeri breakfast of gözleme with cheese and scrambled eggs with flatbread, olives, cheese, and honey.QF‑4, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 390 53 23, www.baku-lounge.pl. Open 11:00 24:00. €€€. 6WH

FRENCH LE BISTROT PARISIEN One of our local favourites for a long time running, this casual modern bistro openly pays homage to Paris with framed period photography, fine wines, and a lunch menu redolent of dining in the French capital. The food - from the steak in Cognac and pepper sauce to the fresh mussels and crème brûlée - is of exceptional quality across the board, making the relaxed atmosphere all the more refreshing. A perfect place for convincing your company that you have good taste, Le Bistrot is a popular congregation point for ex-pats as well. The staff are very friendly, flirty, and accommodating, and therefore in no way reminiscent of the eating out experiences we’ve had in the real Paris. We’d rather be here.QF‑4, ul. Nożownicza 1D, tel. (+48) 71 341 05 65, www.lebistrotparisien.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TW

INDIAN MASALA INDIAN RESTAURANT Well-positioned just off the market square, Masala does traditional Indian food in a more contemporary European style as Indian chefs work in plain view behind two long bars in the offbeat granite grey interior full of comical, iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Restaurants conical hanging lamps, pop art elephants, and colourful seat cushions. The Express Lunch (served 12:00-15:30, MonFri) fills the seats and represents not only a great bargain, but a great deal of delicious food. The regular menu hits all the marks and portions are larger than most places, earning our earnest recommendation. For those travelling with little ones, note that a babysitter is on hand 12:00-17:00 on weekends.QF‑5, ul. Kuźnicza 3/1 A, tel. (+48) 71 302 69 49, www.masala-grill.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. TUW

INTERNATIONAL BARKA TUMSKA The city’s first riverboat restaurant, and once again Wrocław gets it right on the first try. Nestled between the proliferation of islands and bridges just near Ostrów Tumski, this fantastic river barge offers no less than five unique dining rooms over three levels, including the Captain’s mess and the outstanding upper deck with room for 70 people to take in the sights and sunshine. The menu is an inventive mix of local and Mediterranean-inspired seasonal cuisine, changing every 3 months or so. A smart place to bring a date or the whole family: kids get their own menu and play area and will love exploring the corridors of this unique river diner. QG‑3, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 77, www.hotel-tumski.com.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TU BERNARD We’ll go along with the crowd and admit that this trendy brewery/restaurant is one of the most alluring locales on the market square. A stylish, airy, three-level interior with a long inviting bar, Bernard is characterised by closely arranged tables which don’t offer any privacy but contribute to the casual atmosphere where the menu is your placemat and it’s perfectly acceptable to just enjoy a drink without eating. To that end, they have their own beer in dark and light, as well as bottled choices including a decent amber and four alckyfree flavours which we wouldn’t know anything about; enjoy their draughts in glasses growing from 0.4 to 2 litres. The food is nothing to overlook with a menu ranging from nachos to Polish and Czech classics, and the upper-level tables in the window are a great place to take your date, but reserve ahead. QF‑5, Rynek 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 54, www.bernard. wroclaw.pl. Open 10:30 - 23:30. €€€. TUE6W BRASSERIE 27 Fancy and indeed flavoursome, this place is owned by the hotel Europeum but worthy of its separate entrance. A mega modern, glass fronted appearance is complemented by designer hanging lights and dark woods. The reassuringly short menu starts with Italian and spans steak and also fish dishes, staying mostly within the bounds of Mediterranean cuisine. Friendly service and an award winning chef make this one of the better places in the city to eat.QE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27A (Europeum Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 371 44 71, www.brasserie27.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Closed Sun. €€€. UW 58 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Restaurants CAMPO Great for an elegant night out, CAMPO is an Argentine steakhouse located in Wrocław’s fancy new Ovo building. Apart from top-quality meat shipped in from the Ojo de Agua farm in Argentina and grilled to perfection in a Josper wood burning oven, CAMPO also offers a selection of delightful tapas (including calamari, lamb merguez sausages, and grilled eggplant rolls), ceviche, Iberian ham, oxtail, foie gras parfait, and many other mouthwatering dishes. Round your meal off with a nice bottle of Argentine Alamos Torrontés, Saurus Pinot Noir, or Puro Corte.Qul. Podwale 83, tel. (+48) 690 04 03 33, www.campomoderngrill.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€€. T6W CZARY MARY Inside the new Ibis Styles hotel, the design of this charming restaurant is modern and somewhat minimal, enhanced by high contrast colours, floor to ceiling windows looking onto the train station across the street, and - most of all - delightful Alice in Wonderland murals by local artist Szur Szur. The service is classy and the menu is a concise list of beautifully presented entrees that combine unique flavours into creative creations. For such a seemingly casual, almost whimsical, environment, this is surprisingly upscale dining, and a great choice for planning meetings or a meal immediately upon arrival by train.QG‑8, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 20, www.czarymaryrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TUW

life e th e t Tas us... h wit

Piłsudskiego 98, Wrocław (vis a vis Main Station) bistrostationwroclaw tel: + 48 517 070 124

LA MADDALENA With a great location next to the Mleczarnia beer garden, and including seasonal outdoor seating overlooking the White Stork Synagogue, La Maddalena offers upscale dining in Wrocław’s formerly Jewish, currently hipster district. The creme-coloured, conservatively elegant interior includes homely touches and can accommodate large groups as well as couples looking for a more intimate date destination. An enticing menu of regional dishes and fusion cooking makes the art of deciding a challenge, and with the big emphasis on presentation you may be tempted to take out your camera when they arrive. Portions are small but delicious, and you’d never guess that 80% of the entrees are glutenfree.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 782 60 90, www.lamaddalena.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 17:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TUW MAMA MANOUSCH Bucking mainstream trends in both menu selection and decor, Mama Manousch is a very welcome addition to the increasingly foodie-esque ul. Świdnicka. The mid- to higherprice, imaginative, and lovingly prepared food is made even better by the laid-back interior featuring a huge wall-andceiling mural (portraying Mama herself), a mezzanine, plenty of plants to rest an eye on, and ample natural lighting. Open morning till night, MM is just as suitable for lazy lunches (29zł, 12:00-16:00 Mon-Fri) as it is for wining and dining in the evenings.QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 4, tel. (+48) 71 786 62 92, www.mama-manousch.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 17:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TU6W iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Restaurants BREAKFAST

CENTRAL CAFE This American-style bakery and cafe is open early for breakfast, offering pastries, cupcakes, quiche, yoghurt, oatmeal, pastrami, and over a dozen bagel sandwich possibilities; big appetites can also order eggs their way and even pancakes (with maple syrup, fruit, powdered sugar, however you want).QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 794 96 23, www.centralcafe.pl. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 16:00. Breakfast served 07:00 - 14:30; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:30. €€. TU6W DINETTE Wrocław’s most epic breakfast has made it out of the Sky Tower and into a far more convenient location in the Old Town. As such, the most difficult part of your morning might just be deciding which delicious option to choose from the extensive menu (we swear by the shakshouka with excellent freshly-baked bread). Breakfast served till noon. QF‑6, Pl. Teatralny 8, tel. (+48) 502 57 51 45, www.dinette.pl. Open 08:00 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. €. EGG CAFE An Australian establishment in Wrocław? We half expected to be greeted by a Paul Hogan-esque character slipping another shrimp on the barbie for us, but - alas - Egg strays far from tired (and inaccurate) Aussie cliches. If anything, it showcases the scale of today’s globalisation, where a trendy brekkie in Melbourne really isn’t that different from one in London or LA. As such, the menu features trusted breakfast options like avo toast, eggs Benedict, and chorizo omelettes.QG‑3, ul. Jedności Narodowej 62/1A, tel. (+48) 573 29 21 87. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. €. T6W POCHLEBNA B e it a lazy Saturday morning or a gentle ease into a busy work day, Pochlebna is a good option for breakfast, offering fresh-out-of-the-oven baked goods, a selection of homemade spreads, organic eggs, gluten-free pancakes, and tasty coffee in a bright and modern two-level interior. Breakfast is served till noon on weekdays, 13:00 on weekends.QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 733 03 50 81, www. pochlebna.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. €. T6W 60 Wrocław In Your Pocket

MARINA Seafood, pasta, and a concise menu of salads and meats on Wrocław’s mini-marina, with a lovely terrace offering views over the canal. If the weather is too chilly head inside to their upscale bar/lounge (or the new exclusive VIP room) for a cosy cocktail and let the sommelier recommend a bottle of wine (or two) to take away. For those wanting to splash out on a bit of a treat, 3- and 5-course tasting menus are also available.QF‑4, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 502 13 08 93, www.marina.wroc.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TU6W MENNICZA FUSION It’s “dining with the stars” at this restaurant headed by Top Chef Poland finalist Łukasz Budzik. Located in an epic 16th-century granary and blending a pan-European taste with the highlights of Lower Silesian cuisine, Mennicza Fusion also has a dedicated sommelier on board to guide you through a selection of fine wines. Try à la carte delicacies like foie gras terrine with apple and brioche, wild boar with couscous, and pigeon with pearl barley, or spoil yourself with their elegant tasting menu (150zł for 5 courses, 200zł for 7, 250zł for 9).QF‑6, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 02, www.thegranaryhotel.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. €€€€. TU6W MODRA ODRA FISH & MORE Fittingly located on ul. Odrzańska (Oder Street), the Blue Oder focuses on affordable seafood including baked trout from Kłodzko, fish chowder, salmon served on potato pancakes, fish burger with apricots, crayfish (delivered fresh on Thursdays), and mussels (best on Tuesdays). There’s also frizzante on tap and a selection of desserts like brownies with ice cream and green moss (?!) or homemade halva. 22zł lunch is served 12:00-15:30 Mon-Fri, and you can find their second street-foody locale on the main square. Qul. Odrzańska 24, tel. (+48) 530 22 25 55, www.modraodra.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. T6W NADODRZE CAFE RESTO BAR Another hip addition to the ever-improving Nadodrze district, this is a modernly-decorated cafe-resto-bar combo serving coffee brewed using all the newfangled alternative methods, wine, draught beer, a bunch of good lunch options (including pizza, pasta, burgers, salads), and even breakfast bits like avo toast, bagels, and eggs. If you’re feeling whimsical, sit on one of three swings hanging near the front window and wave to random passers-by.QG‑3, ul. Drobnera 26A, tel. (+48) 885 02 03 03. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€. TU 6W

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Restaurants OK WINE BAR Elegant, glitzy, and now located right on the waterfront, OK Wine Bar has used an address change to emphatically establish themselves as one of the city’s most refined destinations for business and romance. The decor is white, bright, and modern, with floor-to-ceiling windows letting in lots of natural light by day, and an intoxicating city shimmer after dark. The seasonal menu emphasises local products and includes hors d’oeuvres and a daily three-course lunch from 12:00-16:00 for 49zł (or limit it to two courses for 41zł). Like the menu, the wine list is surprisingly short but resoundingly robust (with glasses beginning from 17zł), but OK also operates as a shop with over 2000 world vintages you can take home.QE‑4, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, tel. (+48) 71 714 21 26, www.okwinebar. com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. UBE6W OVO BAR & RESTAURANT Recently opened in Wrocław’s futuristic OVO building (which does remarkably resemble na egg), this glitzy restaurant is a great spot for a slow breakfast, professional business lunch, or an evening of signature tapas and cocktails from their impressive drinks menu, as well as making your mind up about Wrocław’s newest architectural addition.QH‑6, ul. Podwale 84, tel. (+48) 735 99 61 73, www.ovowroclaw.com. Open 06:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 02:00. €€€€. TUW POD PAPUGAMI Long known as a default Wrocław drinker, it shouldn’t be forgotten that ‘the Pod’ – in the plummest of plum locations on the Rynek - serves up some rather good food too. Take advantage of the 26zł lunches, served Mon-Fri until 17:00, or wait until evening when the terrific pork steaks will set you up very nicely for a night of cocktails and live music inside this classy tourist-friendly venue full of classic movie memorabilia.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 9A, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. TU E6W PRZYSTAŃ (THE HARBOUR) Decked with tall blonde wood chairs and tables and decorated with old nautical illustrations and knot-tying charts, Przystań nonetheless remains thoroughly modern matching the design of the well-placed new building it occupies. Across the river from the main university building, the real reason to dock in this harbour is the deck seating over the water which offers great views and actually feels like you’re on a boat. The concise menu offers pastas, risotto, steak, saddle of lamb, gorgeous salads - including the very brave chicken liver salad with apple, avocado, orange, and parmesan - and, of course, wonderful seafood and fish.QF‑4, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 502 13 08 93, www.przystan.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €€€. TUW iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Restaurants QUESTA Located in Q Hotel, Questa goes far beyond expected hotel fare, serving up the likes of veal shank with horseradish puree and root vegetables, zander with lemon puree, crayfish, and baked leek, or lemon tart with peaches and meringue from their seasonally-changing menu. Breakfast is served 6:30-10:30 Mon-Fri and 7:00-11:00 on the weekends; expect a buffet of cold cuts and cheeses, homemade pâté, salad, eggs, bacon, Vienna sausages, pastries, cereal, and other classic brekkie options.QD‑9, ul. Zaolziańska 2, tel. (+48) 71 749 17 00, www.qhotels.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TUBS6W RESTAURACJA ACQUARIO The upscale restaurant on the rooftop terrace of the legendary Hotel Monopol, Acquario offers an enticing, eclectic menu with a special flair for seafood and innovative tasting menus with 4, 6, or 8 dishes to choose from. If you’re anything like us, however, you’ll be just as interested in the world-class wine list. There’s really no better way to relax than with a bottle of red enjoying the fabulous views over Wrocław through rose-tinted glasses.QE‑6, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30. From November open 18:00 - 22:30. 4 dishes for 160zł, 6 for 220zł, 8 for 280zł. UW RESTAURACJA EUROPEJSKA This newly renovated restaurant on the ground floor of the Hotel Europejski has gone through a similar rebirth. The classic environs are highlighted by the same inviting orange and warm wood tones of the hotel which match the modern Polish and transcontinental European menu perfectly. The mix of classic dishes transcends the usual hotel restaurant fare and the presentation and service is truly exceptional. Even if you’re not a guest we suggest stopping in for their comprehensive breakfast buffet (06:30-10:00) - a great way to start any day.QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 88 (Europejski Hotel), tel. (+48) 509 35 67 92, www.europejskiwroclaw. pl. Open 06:30 - 21:00. €€. TUW STARY KLASZTOR (THE OLD MONASTERY) Though rebuilt after the war, this former Dominican convent dates back to the early 14th century and was previously the site of a very upscale restaurant - a fact which hints at the ‘wow’ factor of its interior. Full of gorgeous architectural details and high arching ceilings, it’s a bit like dining in a cathedral, but don’t be mistaken - you won’t be cloistered off from society here. Aimed at Wrocław’s student population, there’s an eclectic concert schedule with live music three nights a week on average in the gothic cellars (check their FB page for details), and a large year-round beer garden. On top of that, the full menu of European eats is quite good and the beer selection is great. If you’re really pinching pennies, the attached Bistro Nowy Targ is super cheap. Worth investigating for eats, drinks and hijinks.QG‑5, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519 89 47 69, www.staryklasztor.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00. €€. E6W 62 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Restaurants STATEK RESTAURACJA WRATISLAVIA Lunch and a cruise? You bet. When it’s not docked at its harbour on the Oder, Wratislavia glides along the river, offering splendid views of the city and an a la carte menu of traditional fare with modern elements courtesy of chef Piotr Gietner. In the autumn season the planned number of cruises is three per day at 12:00, 14:00, and 16:00 (90 minutes each). At 18:00 the vessel docks for the night, and diners can show up without being afraid they’ll miss the departure. Now this is what we call eating on the water.QG‑4, Wratislavia Harbour, Bulwar Xawerego Dunikowskiego (near the Hala Targowa), tel. (+48) 570 90 29 03, www.statekrestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TW SUKIENNICE 7 Certainly one of the most elegant, upscale dining establishments to open in Wrocław in some time, Sukiennice 7 offers an outstanding menu of modern Polish and Mediterranean culinary creations served on slabs of slate or thinly-sliced tree trunks. A certain theatricality exists here as the chefs in their funny hats put on a show in the open kitchen (surrounded by a long bar), and the waitresses scurry about wearing in something akin to folk costumes, while a pianist plays in the evening - during which time you can expect this place to be packed despite the ample size of the modern interior. A great place for large group reservations, keep costs down Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 with their lunch specials.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 7, tel. (+48) 71 342 74 56, www.sukiennice7.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. TUW VERTIGO JAZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT How about dinner and a concert? Head to the best jazz venue in the region for a sophisticated evening of rhythmic music, killer cocktails (none of which are called ‘Hot Sax’), and a range of modern fusion-influenced European dishes. Daily concerts begin at 20:00, during which time reservations are recommended.QF‑6, ul. Oławska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21 29, www.vertigojazz.pl. Open 18:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. €€. UEW WARSZTAT - FOOD & GARDEN Located a bit out of the centre in what was once a car repair shop (a fact still reflected in the name), Warsztat does what would best be described as gourmet cooking - and the prices certainly reflect this. The interior is lovely as is the seasonal garden out back, the atmosphere relaxed despite the overall ‘upscaleness’ of the endeavour, but is it worth coming all the way out to this supremely uninteresting area next to a shopping mall? For us, the answer is probably no.Qul. Niedźwiedzia 5, tel. (+48) 693 50 99 89. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. €. T6W

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September – December 2018

Restaurants

korean - japanese restaurant

Wrocław, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45 reservation tel. (071) 343 53 01 restauracja@darea.pl www.darea.pl

THE BEST SUSHI IN THE CITY

WODNIK RESTAURANT Within walking distance of the Zoo, the restaurant of the Wodnik Hotel certainly isn’t a bad option in an area where choices are limited (and therefore crowded). In keeping with the nautical theme of the hotel, the emphasis here is on fresh fish, which they prepare in their own smokehouse and enhance with herbs from their own garden. Enjoy tempting dishes like salmon teriyaki or duck with apples, pears, and cabbage in the white-scrubbed interior or sunny seasonal terrace. Get there by taxi, or by walking across the Zwierzyniecka Footbridge from the south side of the Zoo (M-6).QL‑7, ul. Na Grobli 28 (Wodnik Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 343 36 67, www.wodnikhotel.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. T6W ZENKA CAFE Simple, bright, and modern, Zenka is the younger sister of Central Cafe who has wandered a bit farther from the city centre (across the river, in fact). Their newest obsession is pastrami, which they serve in deliciously loaded sandwiches including the Philly Cheese Pastrami and the Pastrami Bagel, though you can also get it in an omelette, salad, or pasta dish. Other eats include sunny-side up eggs with halloumi, pancakes with bacon and maple syrup, colourful oatmeal, soups, salads, and of curse plenty of great coffee, smoothies, freshly-made cakes, and alcoholic drinks. In warm weather you can sit out on the terrace gazing at the Oder. QE‑3, ul. Dubois 41, tel. (+48) 71 712 71 69, www.zenkacafe.pl. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. €€. TU6W 64 Wrocław In Your Pocket

ITALIAN CAPRI RISTORANTE PIZZERIA Found inside the Galeria Italiana complex the style here is clear and simple, with visual distractions essentially limited to the streetside views and the theatrics of other diners. Choose from an ambitious range of Italian dishes, with the real emphasis placed on spaghetti, while the proprietors’ Italian origins are unmistakable in their influence on the end product. Prices remain pegged at sensible levels, providing prospective diners with all the more reason to visit.QF‑4, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71, www.capripizza.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. T6W NEW DON CORLEONE Pan-Italian cuisine is and has been ubiquitous in Polish cities for a while, but Sicilian? Not so much. With no pizza or fettuccine alfredo in sight, Don Corleone offers an abundance of fresh seafood in dishes like arancini con gamberi (stuffed rice balls with shrimp), octopus with potato puree, and linguine with mussels. Pair your meal with a bottle of wine from Sicily or Apulia - suggested pairings are listed in the menu - and grab a cannolo as the figurative cherry on top. And of course, where would a Sicilian restaurant be without a Godfather reference? Recommended.QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 3, tel. (+48) 571 42 44 03. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Closed Mon. €€. TU6W iyp.me/wroclaw

Restaurants LA SCALA Tried and true La Scala enjoys a big reputation amongst locals, despite revved-up Rynek prices and uneven service from the bow-tied staff. That’s down to the food no doubt, with arguably the best Italian in town in the exclusive upstairs eatery, while the ground floor trattoria offers guests a cheaper, more concise incarnation of the menu amongst red-chequered tablecloths, pictures of rural Italy and strings of garlic.QF‑5, Rynek 38, tel. (+48) 71 372 53 94, www.lascala.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. T6 NIEZŁY DYM We’ll cut right to it - the pizza napoletana served here is amazing. Expertly prepared dough, splendid tomato sauce, and tasty topping combinations - like blue cheese and red onion, beet paste and camembert, sweet potatoes and parmesan - have elevated this spot above Wro’s other pizzerias, making this our go-to place for delicious carbs. Italian wine and local beer is now served, making the experience just that much better. Heartily recommended. QF‑6, Plac Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 530 53 31 29. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €. TU

100 metres from the Old Town, the Mercure Hotel and the DoubleTree by Hilton

OGIEŃ Finally, a popular (and good) pizza place in Nadodrze! Our favourite grungy/artsy district of Wrocław usually suffers from a lack of customers, despite a proliferation of trendy cafes and eateries, but this is one of the exceptions. On weekend nights, you’ll find Fire packed to the brim with patrons waiting for their Gorgo or Diavola Neapolitan pizza, served with the obligatory San Marzano DOP tomatoes. There’s also strong Italian espresso, wine, and a modest selection of craft beer to sip on while you watch Nadodrze life go by.QE/F‑2, ul. Pomorska 39/1C, tel. (+48) 531 52 22 36. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €. T6 PIEC NA SZEWSKIEJ Serious competition for Niezły Dym, Piec na Szewskiej makes some truly mean Neapolitan pizza, vouched for by the endless stream of patrons vying for a table. The decor is nothing much, the service is hit or miss, but no one comes here for that - the great selection of authentic napoletana, made with DOP San Marzano tomatoes and ingredients like pecorino cheese, aubergine, prosciutto di Parma, and mozzarella di bufala, is more than sufficient to outweigh the flaws.QF‑4, ul. Szewska 44-46, tel. (+48) 669 34 04 67. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €. 6W VIVERE ITALIANO Were it not for the not-so-southern architecture outside (and winter slush during certain times of year), you’d probably think yourself to be in Milan or Rome. With an obligatory Vespa parked in the window, a large selection of Tuscan and Sicilian wines, quality deli products in the establishment’s shopping section, and all your favourite classics prepared according to traditional recipes, this is the definition of authentic Italian.QF‑6, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 21, tel. (+48) 513 28 80 29, www. vivereitaliano.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. T6W iyp.me/polandblog

KIMCHI RESTAURANT Korean Grills & Street Food OHH SUSHI CITY CENTER C.H. Galeria Dominikańska Pl. Dominikański 3, Wroclaw Tel. 71 330 65 40 Restaurant OHH!! SUSHI & GRILL C.H. Magnolia Park Ul. Legnicka 58, Wroclaw Tel. 71 350 03 68

www.ohhsushiwroclaw.pl ohhsushiandgrill September – December 2018

Restaurants JAPANESE DAREA SUSHI KOREAN - JAPANESE RESTAURANT A huge open plan space that does little in the way of décor, but plenty for the reputation of Korean food. Overseen by a Korean chap who settled in Poland over a decade ago Darea offers a cracking menu of both Japanese and Korean dishes including tangsuyuk (sweet and sour beef baked in pastry), bulgogi, and five grill options where the cooking is left to the patrons. Highly recommended and a confirmed favourite of Wrocław’s expats. Take-away on offer at a 15 percent discount.QF‑4, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45, tel. (+48) 71 343 53 01, www.darea.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. €€€. W OHH!! SUSHI & GRILL One of Poland’s better sushi chains, Ohh!! Sushi continues to surprise shoppers by providing exceptionally authentic, fresh food in one of the last places you would expect it: a shopping mall. Incredibly popular as a take-away spot, that less energy has been put into the design of the interior than the quality of the food should hardly concern anyone’s stomach. With the endorsement of plenty of Asian clients at the tables each time we drop by, Ohh!! Sushi is not only up there with the city’s best Japanese, it’s the best value in Wrocław for this elsewhere-overpriced food fad. Another location in Magnolia Park (ul. Legnicka 58).QG‑6, Pl. Dominikański 3 (Galeria Dominikańska, level 0), tel. (+48) 71 330 65 40, www.ohhsushi.pl. Open 09:30 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €€€. TUW SZAJNOCHY 11 Sushi chefs work in plain view behind the canal bar, foregoing formal pretences with chatty camaraderie, as prepared sushi rolls float by ready to be plucked onto the plates of patrons. That’s not to say these gents don’t know what they’re doing - our nigiri and futomaki rolls were as good (and as fresh) as any we’ve had anywhere, and it’s certainly refreshing to see a bit of lightheartedness applied to something as achingly serious as sushi has been ever since it left Japan. Decor is minimal but on the mark with dark walls, wood furnishings, and scattered plants, and like many other local places, it pays to appear during lunch (served 12:00-16:00 Mon-Fri) for bargain priced sushi sets, which - as you might expect - can get quite expensive otherwise. Overall: simple, authentic and, most of all, friendly.QE‑6, ul. Szajnochy 11, tel. (+48) 662 15 13 93, www.szajnochy11.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. €€. TW

JEWISH SARAH Located near the White Stork Synagogue and Jewish Community Centre, Sarah can make its claim as Wrocław’s most Jewish restaurant, for whatever that’s worth. The budget menu - unfortunately not kosher - features traditional Jewish dishes, and though reports of their quality and of the service are a little uneven, this is still a great place 66 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Restaurants to spend time in our opinion. With plenty of atmosphere thanks to earthy colours, menorah candlelight, and loads of antiques, Sarah is reminiscent of the cafes found in Kraków’s old Jewish district and teams with Mleczarnia to create one of the best seasonal beer gardens in the city.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 609 99 01 97, www.sarah. wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. U6W

MEXICAN PANCZO Mexican and Tex-Mex in Poland can be terrible microwave-thawed sludge guacamole and flavourless gringo quesadillas are the norm most places you go. Luckily, now and then you’ll find an establishment more interested in flavour and quality (and, dare we say, creativity) than in drawing a crowd familiar exclusively with movietheatre nachos. This is one of those places. Endearingly unorthodox, their “big-ass burritos” (more Tex than Mex, obviously) feature ingredients like mango salsa, pineapple marinated with passion fruit, and pulled beef neck, which sounds like something a veterinarian would deal with. The end result blew our socks off, and there’s more to try on the menu: pulled-chicken quesadillas, decked-out baked potatoes, tacos, and - since moving out of the 4Hops bar to a place of their own - a selection of colourful margaritas, cheladas, sangrias, and shots. Provecho!QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 35/1A, tel. (+48) 884 00 97 37. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €. U6W

PASTA BARS UMAMI DUMPLING & PASTA BAR Not the Japanese establishment you’d expect from the name: instead, Umami explores the ‘fifth taste’ (which, if you need a reminder, is ‘savoury,’‘meaty,’ or ‘brothy,’ and was first proposed by chemist Kikunae Ikeda in 1908) in a variety of world cuisines. The owners’ other culinary love is humble flour, and as such the menu focuses largely on dumplings and noodles, such as ravioli, pierogi, wontons, ramen, pad thai, tagliatelle, and more. Bright, airy, and located right on the main square, Umami also appears to be exceptionally child-friendly, judging from the number of cherub-cheeked customers babbling away in high chairs (and yes, there is a kids’ menu!). If you’re thirsty for more, Umami also has an intriguing selection of cocktails, including ‘smoked sesame,’ ‘spicy tomato,’ and ‘roasted tea.’QE/F‑5, Rynek 60, tel. (+48) 602 66 00 38, www.umami.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:30 - 22:00, Fri 09:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:30. €€. TU6W

POLISH CHATKA PRZY JATKACH This small, popular Polish eatery, across from the ul. Jatka gallery stalls, achieves the trick of appearing like a rustic village cottage if you don’t notice the ceiling ductwork. Enhancing the illusion is the genuine Bolesławiec folkware on the tables (begging to leap into someone’s handbag), stout wooden tables, timber fittings and a thatched iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Restaurants POLISH FOOD

Pierogi

Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following to the test: Bigos: Also known as Hunter’s Stew. Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty dish, it’s usually made using meat, cabbage, onions, sauerkraut and whatever else is around, and then left to simmer for a few days. If you have second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default. Gołąbki: Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before being baked and served with a tomato or mushroom sauce. Golonka: Pork knuckle, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy, the meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Go caveman. Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an enormous variety, made from everything from turkey to bison. Pierogi: Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, or fruit, though if you nose around you will find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are served almost everywhere. Placki: These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash on top (placki po Węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure. Zupa (Soup): Poland has two signature soups: barszcz and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with potatoes or mini-pierogi floating in it, or with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it ‘solo’ in a mug for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl. 68 Wrocław In Your Pocket

awning over the bar. The menu - conveniently available in Polish, English, and German - features all the Polish classics, but take note that almost everything on it is fried. Despite the average food, it can be hard to score a table in this veteran chow house, which makes a fine place for a fast, local lunch, or late evening meal if you were busy drinking when the dinner bell rang. And they conveniently accept Euros.QF‑5, ul. Odrzańska 7, tel. (+48) 530 23 08 11. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. T DWÓR POLSKI One of the most regal-looking restaurants on the Rynek, Dwór Polski is chock full of stuffed falcons, Hussar wings, and enough medieval armour and weaponry to start a museum. Those looking for a royal feast however, may be disappointed. Despite the upmarket prices and palatial interiors, the food - mostly game dishes like pheasant, boar, and venison carved up with pewter cutlery - doesn’t always live up to expectations. Gamey indeed, and if you’re a vegetarian, get away quickly.QE‑5, Rynek 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 48 96, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Open 11:00 23:00. €€€. T6W JADKA Faultless modern and traditional Polish cuisine inside a warm and minimalist interior featuring vaulted brick ceilings and timber. The concise menu won’t bowl you over, but the class and quality will: choose from the likes of beef tongue with hibiscus and beets or veal with chanterelle mushrooms and kohlrabi. Expect an expansive wine list, professional service, and a commitment to excellence. One of the few world-class dining options in the city, with some guests drawn specifically by the name of chef Justyna Słupska Kartaczowska.QE‑5, ul. Rzeźnicza 24/25, tel. (+48) 71 343 64 61, www.jadka.pl. Open 17:00 - 22:00, Sun 17:00 - 21:00. €€€. 6W KARCZMA LWOWSKA Translating to ‘Lviv Tavern’ and dedicated not only to that formerly Polish city now lost in the wilds of the Ukraine, but also to that thought-to-be lost Polish ideal of a simple country lifestyle, this nostalgic restaurant’s immaculately decorated interior is decked out in rustic, rural artefacts, antiques, old photos and seems to have a stuffed pheasant on almost every table. Designed for day-long feasting, the menu of traditional Galician specialties looks like an outstanding bargain before you notice that all side dishes are charged separately, however the result is still a decent value and evidence that not everything on the market square is a tourist trap.QE‑5, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 343 98 87, www.lwowska.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. XTE6W KONSPIRA Recreating the 1980s with Soviet newspapers, political cartoons, posters, and other era imagery while Polish ‘hits’ play from the speakers, Konspira calls itself a ‘Centre for Historical Education’ illuminating Wrocław’s role in the Solidarity movement. With some English-language iyp.me/wroclaw

Restaurants info it could do a better job at that, but as a restaurant it does a fine job of dishing out enormous portions of tasty local grub. The killer location includes a huge garden full of gorgeous trees(!) and a historical exhibit (Polish only unfortunately). Make sure you don’t miss the ‘hidden room’ - walk through a wardrobe to discover a clever recreation of what a Polish apartment might have looked like in the mid80s. Completely unique and worth checking out.QE‑5, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 796 32 66 00, www.konspira.org. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. €€. TB6 W MALARSKA 25 Malarska has dropped pizza and gone instead in the direction of refined ‘new Polish’ cuisine, which we think is a wonderful change. The star of the new menu is catfish in crayfish sauce, an entrée which won the 2017 Perła award for the best regional dish. Other delicacies change seasonally, but have in the past included turkey in honey-thyme sauce with fermented apples, ribs with rhubarb demi-glace, and the idyllic-sounding duck breast seasoned in hay and flowers. Pair that with a nice bottle of wine and see the magic that can happen when an imaginative chef tackles the quite unimaginative Central European cuisine.QF‑4, ul. Odrzańska 24/29, tel. (+48) 887 55 25 25, www.malarska25.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri 13:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€. TB6W

Karczma Lwowska

Wrocław, Rynek 4 Rezerwacje / Reservations +48 / 71 34 39 887 karczma@lwowska.com.pl www.lwowska.com.pl

POD FREDRĄ A perfect introduction to traditional Polish cuisine, from a perfect location inside Wrocław’s medieval Town Hall, Pod Fredrą ably covers the spectrum of Polish classics. The music, walls, and meaty menu combine to create the appearance of an old Polish village and the staff will dutifully serve you in at least three languages (Polish, German, or English). The extensive country fare is complemented by a large and international wine list, and you need not worry about your eyes being too big for your stomach as they’re quite happy to doggy-bag whatever you’re unable to put away of the large portions.QF‑5, Rynek - Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341 13 35, www.podfredra.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. U6 RESTAURACJA MONOPOL Known under communism as the most exclusive restaurant in Wrocław, queues would stretch outside the revolving doors as the staff shooed away anyone not wearing a tie, and menus and tableware frequently disappeared into the pockets of souvenir hoarders banking on the Monopol’s rep as a culinary masterpiece. With the historic building renovated and under the savvy stewardship of Likus, today that excellence is back in place with master chefs preparing a wide range of traditional Polish dishes, and an inspired breakfast smorgasbord starting each day. A modern classic, just leave the cutlery when you go.QE‑6, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 07:30 10:30, 12:00 - 22:00. €€€€. UW iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Restaurants QUICK EATS BISTRO STATION Cheap and plentiful home-style food right next to the main train station - convenience at its best for weary travellers. Though buffets aren’t usually paragons of hip decor, we were pleasantly surprised by Bistro Station’s classy ambiance, and you probably will be, too; all that’s left is to load up your plate with goodies, then weigh and pay - 100 g of food costs an easy-on-the-wallet 3.35zł.QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 98, tel. (+48) 517 07 01 24. Open 11:00 - 20:00. €. U6W NEW MODRA ODRA STREET FOOD Quick, street-foody seafood right on the main square, courtesy of Modra Odra, whose proper sit-down locale you’ll find at ul. Odrzańska 24 (F-4); choose from herring in oil, fried mussels, salmon tartare, octopus sandwich, shrimp quesadillas, shrimp mac&cheese, fish&chips, and more fishy eats paired with a cold beer. QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 15/1C, tel. (+48) 530 22 25 55, www. modraodra.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. €€. T6W NEW PAN.PUH This hole-in-the-wall specialises in fairly decent (if not super authentic) baozi with meat and vegetable fillings, but the highlight for us is the daily-special soups, which have included Laotian khao soy, Burmese chicken curry soup, and Indian sambhar stew. A nice selection of bottled Eastern Asian drinks is an added bonus.QF‑4, Pl. Uniwersytecki 15A/1A, tel. (+48) 509 99 20 63. Open 12:00 - 19:00. €€. 6W PASIBUS Fanning the flames of Poland’s gourmet burger obsession is this delicious restaurant/foodtruck hybrid leading a proper invasion of the city with eight locations and (probably) counting. For the full menu, indoor seating, and alc, choose “Pasibus Station” on ul. Włodkowica 37 or ul. Świdnicka 11; for on-the-go eats try to spot one of their food trucks scattered around town..QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 11, www.pasibus.pl. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €. TU6 ZJEMBAO Quick, messy, and delicious. The baos served out of this food truck near Dworzec Świebodzki come in six multicoloured versions, oozing with sauces and loaded with good stuff like glazed bacon + kimchi, marinated tofu + red coleslaw + peanuts, or oyster mayonnaise + spinach + panko fried shrimp. Dim sum and pho now available!QC‑6, ul. Tęczowa 3, tel. (+48) 739 90 05 55. Open 12:00 - 20:00. €. W 70 Wrocław In Your Pocket

SETKA - BAR POLSKI LUDOWEJ For those who miss the communist system, and those who simply missed it altogether, this ‘Polish Folk Bar’ recreates the Soviet-era diner experience in the mould of the currently trendy 24hr Polish snack and shot bar. The loud, time-warp interior is plastered floor to ceiling with fine historical images of PRL life, while the menu is a bit more than the typical romp through cold dishes that complement vodka - the ribs are arguably the best in town, and we also recommend the potato pancakes with goulash. The prices here are precious more than pocket change, and Setka is certainly more popular than we ever remember any other aspect of the communist system being in this country. QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50A, tel. (+48) 733 40 74 07, www.setkabar.com. Open 10:00 - 06:00. €. W

PORTUGUESE PINTO PERI-PERI & GRILL Finally, some authentic Portuguese flavours! As per the name, this low-key establishment embellished with exposed brick and azulejo tiles focuses on peri-peri chicken, a Portuguese BBQ specialty in spicy sauce made from the peri-peri pepper. Also on the menu: caldo verde soup, bacalhau a braz (salt cod with potatoes and eggs), bitoque (steak), and delicious Portuguese wines. During the warm season you can sit outside and watch Wrocław life go by while dreaming of Lisbon.QF‑4, ul. Uniwersytecka 11/12, tel. (+48) 696 12 77 66. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€. TU6W TASZKA WINE & PETISCOS Finally proving that the Main Square isn’t reserved only for immortal, pompous establishments and overpriced tourist traps, Taszka is a labour of love by a Polish-Portuguese duo, serving Portuguese-inspired petiscos (tapas) and two informal tasting menus (vegetarian and omnivore) alongside an impressive selection of wines straight from sunny Portugal. Fresh and unique, Taszka’s imaginative dishes and laid-back atmosphere are a winning combination for date night or a post-sightseeing splurge. QF‑5, ul. Rynek 53/55, tel. (+48) 570 33 74 24, www. taszka.wine. Open 14:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. €€€. TU6W

THAI PHATHATHAI This typical hole-in-the-wall establishment has perhaps four tables and an open kitchen, meaning you can peer right into the Thai cooks’ woks as they stir-fry together delicious concoctions. The very fairly-priced menu includes curries, spring rolls, fried rice, and - of course - pad thai, all served on eco-friendly wheat bran plates. Outdoor seating is now available (in the warm season, of course), greatly increasing their capacity. QF‑5, ul. Więzienna 5C, tel. (+48) 534 79 88 63, www.phathathai.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. From October open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €€. 6W iyp.me/wroclaw

Restaurants VEGETARIAN AHIMSA RESTAURANT & CLUB Okay, first things first: these people really do know their spices, and it’s hard to believe that someone can inject this much flavour into lowly tofu. You won’t leave hungry, either; the all-vegan menu offers huge portions of veggie sizzlers, masala dosa, stir-fry vegetables in peanut sauce, thali and sushi of the day, falafel, and veggie burgers. While the delicious smell might just be the deciding factor when choosing to dine here, the warm minimalist ambience entices you to sit a while longer.QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 23, tel. (+48) 71 344 55 22, www.ahimsa.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€. TBS6W NAJADACZE.PL Wrocław now has enough alternative eating options most of them excellent - to send tourists on a veritable vegetarian food crawl. This small, likeable, and exclusively vegan eatery is certainly worth seeking out as well, offering a concise menu of Arabic and Indian cuisine that’s also conveniently available in English. The falafel burgers (15zł) are a big hit, while other highlights include the hummus, tofu cheesecake, kofta, and more. There’s a range of fair trade coffees, teas, and sodas, the food comes out of the kitchen fast, and costs almost nothing. Eat well and spend little - that’s what it’s all about no matter what your diet.QF‑4, ul. Nożownicza 40, tel. (+48) 71 344 55 11, www.najadacze.pl. Open 11:00 20:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. €. 6W VEGA This veteran establishment earns honours for being the first in the country to commit to going all vegetarian when it opened way back in 1987. Now, following a needed renovation, Vega has upped its own ‘anti-’ by going 100% vegan. Set over two floors right on the market square, the modern makeover has done wonders for the interior and the food is good as ever, especially the amazing cakes, desserts, and vegan nice cream. Enjoy daily specials, meatless cutlets, and Eastern-inspired dishes, with plenty for diabetics, those going gluten-free, and even raw foodies. Full of flyers and activist info, this place is a veritable counter-culture centre, and probably the cheapest, most alternative place you can eat on the market square of any major city in Poland. Way to go, Wrocław. Note that opening hours for the second floor differ: it’s 9:00-20:00 Mon-Fri, 12:00-20:00 Sat, 12:00-19:00 Sun.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344 39 34. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. €€. TW

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Nightlife

Whiskey in the Jar (p.77)

Wrocław bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most will stay open until the last customer has crawled out. The lion’s share are concentrated around the market square, but for more alternative drinking destinations also check out the divey tippler’s strip below the ul. Bogusławskiego train tressle (F-8), and destinations west of the market square, namely the hip cafe/bars of Pasaż Pokoyhof (D-5, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4) and ul. Włodkowica (D-5/6), and the hedonistic courtyards off ul. Ruska, including Pasaż Niepolda (D-5, ul. Ruska 51). Recently, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich (E-5/F-6) has also emerged a one of the city’s most happening alternative streets. For clubbing, the main hedonist hangouts are ul. Św. Mikołaja (D-5) and the famous Pasaż Niepolda, where the parties last until morning even if you don’t. Expect cover charges of anywhere from 5-20zł at the door on weekends, and don’t expect to find toilet paper in any of the bathrooms after 22:00.Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so visit our website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com (of which there’s also a mobile version) - to read reviews of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments about all of those which you’ve visited. Na zdrowie, and happy hangover. COCKTAILS Shake it up in local stalwarts Papa Bar (p.75) and Pod Papugami (p.76), search for the speakeasy Cocktail Bar by Incognito (p.73), or get fresh and fruity in Coctail Bar Max (p.73). Domówka (p.78) and Grey (p.78) are currently the most exclusive catwalks for celebrity spotting and being seen. 72 Wrocław In Your Pocket

CRAFT BEERS Discover the depths of Polish beer culture in AleBrowar (p.73), Kontynuacja (p.74), and Marynka (p.74), or check out one of the breweries (p.76) where they make their own. STUDENTS As beer prices go up, cheap shot bars including Setka (p.70) are appearing all over, sustained by Wrocław’s student population. For spontaneous booty shaking it’s off to Mañana (p.78) or Szajba (p.76). LADS Breweries (p.76) are a popular place to start the night with pints of beer and plates of bratwurst, after which the party tends to move to the brash Pasaż Niepolda. COUPLES Show off by starting the night with a romantic dinner in OK Wine Bar (p.74), or a fancy drink in Papa Bar (p.75). Enjoy a classy jazz concert at Vertigo (p.63), continue the conversation by candlelight in Mleczarnia (p.75), or take a turn on the dance-floor in Mañana (p.78). ALTERNATIVE Regular presentations on how to be a Polish hipster are given in Szklarnia (p.76), Surowiec (p.78), and KRVN (p.74); Nietota (p.75) has a darker side, and Art Cafe Kalambur (p.78) is the heights of opiatic art nouveau decadence. iyp.me/wroclaw

Nightlife SYMBOL KEY N Credit cards not accepted 6 Animal friendly U Facilities for the disabled

E Live music

X Smoking room available

B Outside seating

W Wi-fi connection

BARS & PUBS ALEBROWAR The flagship brew pub of one of PL’s best and first craft beer brands, AleBrowar combines Polish street graphics with American-style microbrewing. As this watering hole’s official motto states, “don’t say hop until you try.” Actually, scratch that - the cool decor and crowds of chipper, welldressed patrons draw you in as soon as you round the corner, and the great selection of craft beer makes you stay for another... and another.QD‑5, ul. Włodkowica 27, tel. (+48) 533 94 48 23, www.alebrowar.pl. Open 14:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. 6W BLACKBOARD PUB Located in the trend-setting Ibis Styles Hotel across from Dworzec Główny, the location may not be ideal for a pub crawl, but if you’ve got some time to kill between connections, or if you’re craving a pint straight off the train, then this surprisingly hip hotel bar is definitely worth a visit. It’s got a touch of industrial chic, black-and-white decor, neon and mood lighting, walls covered in blackboard paint and chalk renderings, live sports on the TV, and a laid-back ambience - what more do you need?QG‑8, Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 21. Open 17:00 - 02:00. UW COCKTAIL BAR BY INCOGNITO A speakeasy hidden away in the red brick cellar of a cafe on Plac Solny; find it and you’ll be rewarded with cold brew cocktails, ‘molecular’ concoctions, single malt whisky, and other high-brow drinks served by sharp-looking bartenders (beer has been scrapped from the menu for being too plebeian). The atmosphere is classy and the music of choice is jazz and blues, providing a welcome alternative to the crazy college student establishments all too prominent in the city. The place gets packed on the weekends, so make a reservation ahead of time. Recommended. QE‑5, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 730 93 12 02, www.koktajlbar.com. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. W COCTAIL BAR MAX & DOM WHISKY The search for the letter ‘k’ continues at this upscale, roomy and inviting locale featuring tall windows, exposed brick, and a well-stocked 360 degree bar at the centre. Busy and chatty in the evenings, Coctail Bar Max nevertheless draws a calmer crowd, making this the place for getting one or two elegant drinks without stepping on other patrons’ feet iyp.me/polandblog

ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, Wrocław Phone: +48 71 733 48 21 September – December 2018

Nightlife WINE BARS OK WINE BAR Refined and glitzy, OK Wine Bar is more than OK - with a location right on the waterfront and floor-toceiling windows letting in shimmering light reflected off the Oder River, it’s probably the most romantic spot for wining and dining. Their robust wine list comprises over 2000 vintages to be had by the bottle and a short but effective selection of vino to be had by the glass. QE‑4, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, tel. (+48) 71 714 21 26, www.okwinebar.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. UBE6W POCHLEBNA Known for its bread and its wine, Pochlebna triples as a bakery / breakfast spot, lunch restaurant, and after-hours wine bar. Choose from a nice selection of Old World and New World wines paired with a plate of local ripened cheese and some flatbread, or go for a wine spritzer like cucumber prosecco or Aperol Spritz, QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 733 03 50 81, www.pochlebna.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. 6W WINNICA NA SOLNYM A little wine bar tucked away in a beautifully green, vine-covered courtyard, remarkably peaceful given its location right on Plac Solny. They import their wines and champagnes directly from small family vineyards to keep prices low and offer all kinds of little snacks that pair well with the drink of the gods, from cheese platters to fondue to olives.QE‑5, Plac Solny 14, tel. (+48) 696 58 35 27, www.winnicanasolnym.pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 01:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. W or having to yell over dubstep. For a fancier experience, allow the white-smocked waiter to gingerly guide you into a glass-partitioned room of cigars and rare whiskeys, some dating back to the 1960s.QE‑5, ul. Rzeźnicza 28-31, tel. (+48) 691 96 00 00, www.barmax.pl. Open 11:00 - 05:00. XUW HARD ROCK CAFE HRC doesn’t really need explaining. This legendary rock ‘n’ roll chain is opening its fourth restaurant in Poland, bringing the usual BBQ grub, alc, and music memorabilia to a prime location on the main square. The first floor is largely dedicated to clothing and accessories of music stars - including Elton John’s shoes, Beyonce’s corset, and Lady Gaga’s leather cape - as a nod towards the building’s previous role housing communist Poland’s state-owned fashion enterprise Moda Polska (Polish Fashion). Upstairs you’ll find numerous guitars, including ones used by Santana and Alice Cooper, Elvis’s microphone, and John Lennon’s 1960’s TV set. The menu is the usual romp through burgers (including a very ‘Polish’ creation with 74 Wrocław In Your Pocket

white sausage and sauerkraut), ribs, fries, chicken, and alcoholic drinks.QF‑5, Rynek 25, tel. (+48) 71 726 11 40, www.hardrock.com/cafes/wroclaw. Open 12:00 - 24:00. E6 KONTYNUACJA Wrocław might be the best beer city in PL, and this is arguably its best craft beer house - though competition is fierce. With 25 beers from PL and abroad on draught (including two hand-pumps), the ales are inscrutable, and the atmosphere has picked up considerably despite a slow start. With modern, minimal decor, a lengthy bar, and long thin tables to encourage conversation, this is one of the most popular meet-up places for a pint or two and some good conversation.QF‑6, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 17, tel. (+48) 792 40 00 84, www.kontynuacja.ontap.pl. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. 6W KRVN Shorthand for ‘Karavan’ (obviously), this odd and amiable bar/bistro combines a smart post-modern aesthetic with a street art edge and deliberate traces of urban decay: think steel doors and subtle neon, plus strange Sharpie scribbles on unfinished walls. In the evenings it’s a total hipster hangout full of fanny packs, plug earrings, ironic moustaches, and fast electronic music. The drinks menu is unique, inventive, and nothing short of excellent, with a long list of original cocktails and hot concoctions for weathering the long Polish winter. By day natural light filters through the street-side windows and KRVN is more of a bistro with a great menu of hot sandwiches, burgers, and salads (served until 22:00, Fri-Sat 24:00). An ideal place to pretend you’re not a tourist, this is essentially the perfect Wrocław hangout.QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 40/1A, tel. (+48) 575 79 17 57, www.krvn.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. 6W LIGERO CIGAR & RUM LOUNGE Located in the snazzy Justin Centre, Ligero is Wrocław’s largest cigar shop and lounge, offering expert advice and a huge selection of hand-rolled Cuban, Dominican, Nicaraguan, and Honduran cigars from their state-ofthe-art walk-in humidor. Recline in a leather armchair in their spacious, perfectly ventilated smoking lounge and enjoy top-shelf Caribbean spirits. The rum selection is unparalleled, but they also have excellent coffee and a tasty selection of local craft beers, allowing you to make the experience not only more Wroclavian, but more casual as well.QG‑6, ul. Krawiecka 1/1A, tel. (+48) 71 712 71 57, www.ligerolounge.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. XU6 W MARYNKA PIWO I APERITIVO Marynka essentially takes the idea and atmosphere of a wine and tapas bar and applies it to choice ales. Here you can select from a wide variety of beers from all over the world, including 8 regularly changing taps, while snacking on tasty appetisers, and they’ve now added iyp.me/wroclaw

Nightlife delicious wood-fired pizza to their bag of tricks thanks to a cooperation with Happy Little Food Truck parked out back. Hidden in an obscure courtyard behind Graciarnia near the Royal Palace, this is a refined place for beer lovers to relax without the snobbery you might associate with connoisseur culture. Worth seeking out.QE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 39, tel. (+48) 575 75 15 50. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. 6W MLECZARNIA We’ve been mainstays at this dusky, back-street, candlelit pub since our first days in town. Hidden in an enchanting courtyard with the White Stork Synagogue and a glorious oak tree, the summer beer garden is fantastic, while the sepia interior of wobbly furnishings and framed sketches captures an ethereal, nostalgic atmosphere better than anywhere else in Wroc’s former Jewish district. A bohemian mix of local academics, hipsters and hostelers drink through the debate topics of the day while an excellent mix of ethnic and indie music (always played at just the right level) drifts through the air. Honestly, Mleczarnia is the kind of place we could live in, and some regulars appear to actually do so. With a hostel upstairs, you can too.QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 788 24 48, www.mle.pl. Open 08:00 - 04:00. T6W NIETOTA One of Wrocław’s most original venues, Nietota is a place for artsy discourse, self-destructive decadence, and debauchery. An awful lot of time has gone into the decor with almost every surface covered in highly-illustrative original artwork that gives the space a grotesque, creepycool Nachtkabarett atmosphere where concerts and theatre troops take the stage between weekend DJ nights. Completely unique in style and atmosphere, the drinks list is also exceptional with Lindeman’s cherry lambic to candy the lips of the ladies and delicious Litovel straight from Czechia. Well worth seeking out.QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50, tel. (+48) 733 23 39 92, www.nietota.pl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. EW

Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky

ul. Rzeznicza 28-31 50-130 Wroclaw tel. + 48 691 960 000 wroclaw@Barmax.pl www.Barmax.pl www.domwhisky.pl

C O C K T A IL S L E G E N D ASRHYE XO T IC F R U IT S W IT H F R E

tio whisky selec The Biggest Poland in

PAPA BAR One of Wrocław’s most stylish and chic bars, how much you favour Papa Bar really depends how much you fancy yourself a fit with the jet set. Filled with foreign and local hotshots in collars and cufflinks beside blonde beauties and botox cougars drinking cocktails and single malt whiskeys around an endless rectangular bar, grand colonnades support the ceiling while red carpet shots of smiling Hollywood hunks and starlets dress the walls. Though the tedious house music is hardly original, Papa Bar still provides many of the comforts other places lack - including competent mixologists, sports on the flatscreen, and a menu of great eats served late. Recommended.QE‑5, ul. Rzeźnicza 32/33, tel. (+48) 71 341 04 85, www.papabar. pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. UW iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Nightlife BREWERIES Wrocław has a long and illustrious history of brewing beer thanks to its past allegiances and current proximity to both Germany and Czech Republic. While craft beers are all the rage at the moment, the venues below are taking it to the next level by actually brewing their own. BIERHALLE In a battle with Spiż for best local microbrewery, do your drinking under the parasols of their prime Rynek real estate during the sunny season, retreating into the restaurant during those six months of the year when willful impairment is forced indoors. Continuing Wrocław’s long brewing tradition, this outfit does it all on-site with wheat, pilsner, and dark beers among those on draught. Prices are aimed at German tourists, and lager lovers that they are you’ll find plenty of them happy to pay for the privilege of a good ale. If it’s game day, you’ll find Bierhalle’s plethora of teles to be one of your best bets for catching the match.QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 24-27, tel. (+48) 601 67 74 52, www.bierhalle. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. UBW BROWAR ZŁOTY PIES A place where beer keeps no secrets from beer drinkers - the ‘live brewing’ going on in this establishment means that all stages of the process take place right in front of visitors’ eyes, and you might even be allowed to chuck in some malt or hops. Situated in a beautiful main square tenement house with a golden dog emblem (giving rise to the name), Złoty Pies offers three types of beer - lager, IPA, and wheat - in addition to three seasonal brews and a selection of modern Polish dishes which draw upon local products and change with the seasons.QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 1-2, tel. (+48) 570 22 12 12, www.zlotypies.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. 6W SPIŻ BREWERY After losing some ground in the Breslau best beer debate to Bierhalle, Spiż seems to have picked up the slack by unveiling a few new brews which combined with their caramel and honey beers, should be enough to convince your ladyfriend to give it a go. With seven unpasteurised, unfiltered brews in total, you should find something to your taste, though beer enthusiasts are a bit split about the quality. Despite service that is largely lacking, a free table in the summer beer garden is still a rarity, while an Oktoberfest atmosphere prevails in the dark cellars of the Town Hall. Spiż is still considered a must-visit by locals and remains perhaps Wrocław’s most recognisable bar.QF‑5, Rynek-Ratusz 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 72 25, www.spiz.pl. Open 10:00 02:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. XTB6W 76 Wrocław In Your Pocket

POD PAPUGAMI Packed with wasp-waisted blondes, Pod Papugami still rates as one of the top venues in town for terrific food, smart drinks and live music. Squeeze among the local stars to knock down complicated cocktails amid film reels, projectors and vintage movie memorabilia. Champagnevoiced chanteuses take the stage most nights, and the performances are usually very good indeed.QF‑5, ul. Sukiennice 9A, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 75, www. podpapugami.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 23:00. UE6W SZAJBA Hidden one courtyard east of Mleczarnia, this large, versatile high-ceilinged club/gallery caters to Wrocław’s large demographic of hipsters who create happenings. Old 50s and 60s radios with glowing gummy bear lamps atop them line the walls above old framed advertisements and prints by local artists. The furnishings, as you can guess, are more of the same attic antiques you find in many such places, with candles and tulips on the tabletops and plenty of room for large groups. Seasonal outdoor seating, an eclectic alternative playlist, extensive exotic drink list and free wifi are just a few more of the reasons Szajba is a great place to pass time; the bar staff are obviously enjoying themselves, as our coffee came with a near-complete tictac-toe board drawn in the foam, waiting for us to place the winning stroke. A great find.QE‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4 (Pasaż Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 660 40 42 70, www.szajba. wroclaw.pl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. UW SZKLARNIA Ofiar Oświęcimskich Street has exploded with hip new venues to become one of Wrocław’s most exciting streets and this may be its most popular hangout at the moment. Bearing all the hallmarks of hipster paradise - pricey craft beers, cool cocktails, groovy music, DIY design, and good eats - they’ve basically taken all the best aspects of their neighbours and combined them here. Dubbed ‘Greenhouse’ (as Szklarnia translates in English) thanks to a glass ceiling, this large space features a long wrap-around bar, lots of natural light, plenty of plywood and pallets (naturally), and even a patio. A delight by day, things get crowded in the evening when it basically turns into a urban lifestyle blog.QF‑6, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 19, tel. (+48) 575 24 24 56. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. 6W SZYNKARNIA Another in a recent flurry of craft beer houses in Wrocław, Szynkarnia is a hog of a different colour, however. Doing unique double-duty as an ale house and deli counter stocked with fine meats and cheeses, this place is more of a low-key neighbourhood hangout than party headquarters, despite a location bookending Pasaż Niepolda. In addition to the 14 craft brews on draught, try the tasty ‘podpłomyki’ - flatbread filled with the local deli fixings of your choice - delicious! The whiteiyp.me/wroclaw

Nightlife washed timber-fitted space features a cosy antresol and basement as well, and the breakfast and lunch specials warrant return visits to this completely original and relaxed establishment at all times of day.QD‑5, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 793 63 49 94, www.szynkarnia. com.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 6W WHISKEY IN THE JAR With a primo location opposite the Town Hall, and a multilevel industrial interior with leather booths, mounted guitars and motorcycle parts on the walls, Whiskey in Jar offers pricey (but yummy) burgers, steaks, ribs and the like. The house specialty, however, is mixed drinks made with Jack Daniels and served in juice jars (hence the name). Earnest live bands play Pearl Jam and Pink Floyd covers TueSat from 20:00, and though the loud rock concept seems like it would lead to this place being a constant bro-down, ladies apparently love it.QF‑5, Rynek 23/24, tel. (+48) 503 52 75 31, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. UEW

LIVE MUSIC All venues that claim to offer Live Music are marked with a saxophone icon, but in addition to those below, Stary Klasztor (p.62), Pod Papugami (p.76) and Nietota (p.75) are particularly worthy of investigation. To find out what specific concerts are happening when you’re in town, check our Events section (p.18). FIRLEJ Despite being a bit off the beaten path (or perhaps because of it), this is Wrocław’s best concert house. In-the-know art students and wannabe playwrights fill this legendary venue during live shows. The interiors won’t inspire flights of artistic creativity – you’ll find many hotel bars with more daring decorations – but the atmosphere is electric. Check their website or FB to see what’s on and if you get the opportunity don’t hesitate to catch a show here.QB‑7, ul. Grabiszyńska 56, tel. (+48) 71 795 66 67, www.firlej. wroc.pl. Open only during concerts. Check their website to see what’s on. EW VERTIGO JAZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT This esteemed music entertainment outfit boasts its own record label, and finally its own venue for hosting almost nightly jazz concerts. Modern in its slick design and acoustic precision, but classic in its intimate atmosphere and Cotton Club appeal, Vertigo is the best jazz club in the region and a nirvana not only for earnest jazz enthusiasts, but also the players, who are complimented with a high-profile ‘Artists’ Lounge’ at stage left. The cocktail prowess of the bar staff is almost over-the-top, and there’s a nice menu of creative European eats to accompany the live music daily starting at 20:00; most concerts are free, and while reservations aren’t necessary, they would be wise.QF‑6, ul. Oławska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21 29, www.vertigojazz.pl. Open 18:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. UEW iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Nightlife CLUBS ART CAFE KALAMBUR An artsy bohemian headquarters by day, this tiny Secessionist space becomes one of the sloppiest, most unhinged student clubs in Wrocław on weekends, with the party going on until dawn o’clock. As drunken revellers bump into the DJ booth, the masses writhe to skipping recordings of everything from classic MJ to the Doors to Goran Bregovic. So chock-a-block with shimmying students and hipsters that dancers obstruct the door, so start testing your moves on the approach ‘cause you’re going right into the frying pan, friend.QF‑4, ul. Kuźnicza 29A, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 68, www.kalambur.org. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. XUW BEZSENNOŚĆ (INSOMNIA) Pasaż Niepolda’s longest tenured club and arguably still its best. Wrocław’s sophisticated singles gather amid a decadent background of comfy sofas, stark concrete walls and thrift-store furnishings that balance the romanticism of faded olde world grandeur and the sexiness of an underworld speakeasy. Weekends host legendary dance parties, while work days are more low-key with everything from cool 60s tracks to smoky jazz tunes on the speakers, as well as the common occurrence of some of the city’s top concerts in this venue that good bands seem to go out of their way to try and play in. A must visit.QD‑5, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasaż Niepolda), tel. (+48) 570 66 95 70. Open 19:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. XUE DOMÓWKA If you come on a popular night Domówka is not so much a club, but an experience. Once you’ve gotten past the facecontrol, entrance, security, and coat-check you’ll stroll into a packed ballroom-style scene all centred around a massive elevated dance-floor with a hypnotic vibe. The crowd is a bit older and decked-out to be sure, which means there’s eye-candy in every direction and very yuppie prices. The tile and brick wall styling is somehow cheesy and chic at the same time, and the coordinated light displays that continually scan the room will leave you mesmerised on a Friday or Saturday night (and some Wednesdays). Bring your camera, your weekend wallet, and dancing shoes, and Domówka will deliver you to dance-party paradise.QF‑5, Rynek 39, tel. (+48) 508 15 69 12, www.klubdomowka. pl. Open 21:00 - 05:30, Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. XW GREY MUSIC CLUB Wrocław’s most exclusive nightclub, and well worth the payout and pretension required to get inside, as no expense has been spared here in terms of lighting, sound, and design. 50 Shades jokes aside, Grey’s modern minimal space features a fantastic glass atrium space at its centre, perfect for mingling with the cocktail devouring eye candy all around you, while some of the best DJs from PL and abroad annihilate the mature crowd’s ability to do anything other than move on the large dance floor. If you’re not 78 Wrocław In Your Pocket

convinced that Poles are the most beautiful people in the world, this place will change your mind - if you don’t lose it in an explosion of epileptic ecstasy.QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8, tel. (+48) 887 55 55 22, www.greymusicclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 21:00 - 05:00. XEW MAÑANA CAFE Reckoned by many to be the best night out in Wrocław, Mañana is certainly reliable for a raucous weeknight raveup and well-loved by all those who live for long nights. Don’t let the lack of a proper dancefloor prevent you from doing your Travolta - spontaneous outbreaks of disco fever are rife and encouraged. The scruffy furnishings, red lighting and cheeky photos on the wall exemplify the balance between sexiness and silliness embodied by the randy retro-chic clientele, and Mañana’s down-to-earth attitude and funky playlist of favourites from the last 50 years make it one of the most appealing places in the city to squander your brain cells. With the addition of a VIP room and the opening of the large summer terrace there’s now even more space to investigate the lineup of Wrocław’s lookers.QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 343 43 70 , www.mananacafe.pl. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. B PRL Comrade Lenin (and his many portraits) invites you to this communist theme bar on the market square brimming with period propaganda, including some frighteningly authentic social realist oil paintings. It looks amazing and the novelty of the place may intrigue tourists who upon coughing up the cover charge are likely to find themselves far out of their element. Not really a nostalgia bar, this veteran dance club never left the Soviet era and 20+ years of democracy has done nothing to dent its popularity. As such you’ll find a bit of an older crowd with wandering hands getting sweaty to PRL-era Polish pop hits and disco polo tracks of seriously dubious musical merit. An effort has been made to appeal to a younger demographic, perhaps, with the addition of inBeer, an in-house smoking room and beer den big on The Big Lebowski. A cultural experience to be sure, and one you should be careful about committing to.QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 10, tel. (+48) 607 42 95 80, www. prl.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. XBEW SUROWIEC Taking advantage of a superb space created by the Neon Side Foundation - a courtyard filled with salvaged Soviet era neons and street art - Surowiec is a hipster haven with a passion for music, art, good booze, and leafy plants. Chilled out during the day (deck chairs make an appearance during the warm season) and bursting with energy after dark, this irresistibly hip locale hosts frequent silent discos, art exhibitions, and cultural events ranging from literary discussions to poetry slams to vintage markets. Recommended.QD‑5, ul. Ruska 46A, tel. (+48) 501 62 46 60. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Wed 15:00 - 05:00, Thu 15:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 07:00, Closed Mon, Sun. U6W iyp.me/wroclaw

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ORIGINAL TASTE BETTER

Leisure

Nowe Horyzonty (p. 81)

EXIT ROOM Think you can escape from a locked, puzzle-filled room in 60 minutes using only your wits? Escape games have gotten rather popular of late as a more intellectual alternative to - say - bowling or billiards, so grab a few friends, take a deep breath, and put your collective problem-solving skills to the test as the timer ticks down to your demise. You can choose from one of four themed rooms: Saw, Cube, Sexmission (named after the Polish cult film), and Paranormal. A new location has recently opened at ul. Szajnochy 12/3 with two rooms: Laser and Sensual.QE‑5, Rynek 2/4, tel. (+48) 790 36 97 96, www.exitroom.pl. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

Though skirt-watching and spirit-sipping in the city’s cafés and beer gardens is perhaps the most popular local leisure activity, our Leisure section is more designed to help you get out and make the most of a sunny day, or stay active during a dreary one. Known as one of Poland’s greenest cities, Wrocław offers plenty of recreation opportunities on top of its great architecture, nightlife, and culture. With a scenic location on the Odra River and its many tributaries, the city boasts copious kilometres of river boulevards and bike lanes, as well as kayak rentals and river cruises (p.43) in the warm season. When the sun is out, locals flock to the Botanical Garden (p.39), Japanese Garden (p.42), and public parks, while year-round attractions include the Municipal Swimming Pools (a hidden gem) and the Water Park, one of the best in the country. Football fans also have the chance to see one of Poland’s biggest clubs - Śląsk Wrocław - in the new state-of-the-art Wrocław Stadium. Whatever your interest, the area has something to offer you, so use the listings below to stay active in every season.

KWATERA GŁÓWNA Organised laser tag in a specially designed maze arena for 12-person groups. Reservations recommended.QH‑3, ul. Sienkiewicza 8A, tel. (+48) 531 63 80 00, www. kwateraglowna.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. 20zł per person per round if you opt for two or more rounds.

ADRENALINE SPORTS

CINEMAS

ACTIVE POLAND Active Poland organises group activities including gokarting, paintball, shooting, rafting, hovercraft rides, kayaking, and naughtier evenings out for the boys.QF‑7, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 87, tel. (+48) 71 344 51 51, www.activepoland.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

LOWER SILESIAN FILM CENTRE A fantastic independent art-house cinema, boasting four screens, a cloakroom, cafe, bar, and exhibition space.QE‑7, ul. Piłsudskiego 64A, tel. (+48) 71 793 79 00, www.dcf. wroclaw.pl. Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 10-20zł.

80 Wrocław In Your Pocket

iyp.me/wroclaw

Leisure NOWE HORYZONTY Wrocław’s best independent art house cinema, cooperating with the city’s film festivals and educational projects. All Polish films are shown with English subtitles (this is not the norm), and the new interior features a cafe, bistro, bookshop, and film poster gallery. Recommended. QE‑5, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19A-21, tel. (+48) 71 786 65 66, www.kinonh.pl. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Tickets 13-27zł.

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS IMAGINARIUM The future is here, as drone deliveries, autonomous vehicles, and whatever Elon Musk’s latest project is won’t let us forget. At Imaginarium, you can quite cheaply try out the latest entertainment craze: virtual reality. The centre is equipped with five 3x3 metre stations (one person per station - this is a solo adventure) and a multitude of different games to choose from, including 3D drawing, shooter games, and exploring the Solar System or the depths of the ocean. The minimum age is 8 (apparently there are worries that younger kids won’t be able to tell virtual reality from actual reality), glasses are okay (unless they’re huge and won’t fit in the headset), and reservations via the website are encouraged.QE‑7, ul. Piłsudskiego 54-56, www. imaginariumwroclaw.pl. Open 15:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 35zł for 30min, 60zł for 1h.

SPA & BEAUTY CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE Improve blood and limphatic circulation, release physical and mental tension, strengthen the immune system, improve joint flexibility, and remove toxins from your body with an authentic Thai massage, performed solely by highly qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The offer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses, oil massages, feet and legs reflexology, back, shoulder and head massages, and more. Note that reception is only open until 20:00.QD‑5, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 667 75 53 87, www.masaz-tajski-wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Massages 120-300zł. MONOPOL SPA & WELLNESS CENTRE Descend beneath the grandeur of the Monopol hotel to find one of the city’s premier spa and wellness centres including a gym, counter-current swimming pool, fountain and jacuzzi, dry sauna, aromatherapy steam bath and salt and iodine cave. Massages, face and body treatments are also available.QE‑6, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 50, www.monopolwroclaw. hotel.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 22:00. SPA CENTRE WROCŁAW This gorgeous therapeutic complex in the very centre of Wrocław includes the original city municipal baths (see Swimming), built between 1895-97 and today included on the historical registry. Serviced by SPA Centre Wrocław, iyp.me/polandblog

the complex offers access to three of the swimming pools, a fitness centre, saunas, jacuzzis, swimming courses, full rehabilitation and water therapy services, and more. Proceed directly to the Customer Service desk or call to arrange a visit. QF‑6, ul. Teatralna 10-12, tel. (+48) 71 341 09 43, www. spa.wroc.pl. Spa treatments available 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Sauna open 12:00 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Fitness centre hours vary each day. THAI LANNA If you’ve never had a Thai massage before, you really don’t know what your missing (literally). Located just off Wrocław’s market square, this outfit invites you into their intimate, aromatic, slightly exotic ‘living room’ for classic Thai massages, oil massages, reflexology foot massages and more. After the late-night hard-living that a trip to Wrocław tends to inspire, this is a perfect way to relax and re-energise your body.QE‑5, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 25, tel. (+48) 537 84 47 71, www.salon-thailanna.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. 1 hour massage 125zł, with oils 150zł.

SWIMMING MUNICIPAL SWIMMING POOLS This gorgeous complex in the very centre of Wrocław housed the city municipal baths built between 1895-97. Over one hundred years later, today it maintains its function as a therapeutic swimming complex, and is one of Wrocław’s most important architectural monuments from the 19th century (included on the National Registry of Historic Monuments). A beauty from the outside, the interior ornamentation of the three-pool complex includes sculpted sandstone, stainedglass windows, artistic ceramic tiles, polychromatic vaulted ceilings, two-level arcades, and colonnades inspired by the ancient hot baths of Rome. Currently serviced by SPA Centre Wrocław, full spa services are also on hand so if you plan on taking a dip or lying down for a massage in Wrocław, you’d be crazy not to do it here. Club and school reservations make it a bit tricky, but the website regularly updates its posted reservation schedule and opening hours, which you’d be wise to check before thonging down to the pool.QF‑6, ul. Teatralna 10-12, tel. (+48) 71 341 09 43, www.spa.wroc.pl. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00, Last entrace one hour before closing. Admission 15-16.50zł. WROCŁAW AQUAPARK Completed in 2008, Wrocław’s water park is easily one of the finest in the country and makes for a nice respite from the city’s confoundingly complex history and high-minded cultural attractions. And it’s probably the only place your kids will tell their friends about from their trip to Wrocław. Starting from either ‘Rynek’ or ‘Galeria Dominikańska’, you can take a) bus K to ‘Borowska’ or b) tram 23 to ‘Pl. Jana Pawła II’ followed by bus 122 to ‘Petrusewicza’.QF‑11, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48) 71 771 15 11, www.aquapark.wroc.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Fitness Centre, saunas, and sport pool all have independent hours. Check the website for exact times and up-to-date prices. Admission 49zł for a day pass, 39zł for 3hrs, 29zł for 2hrs, each additional minute 0.50zł. September – December 2018

Shopping

Right on the Rynek, head to Wrocław Souvenirs (p.86) for souvenirs that say you were in Wrocław.

AMBER & JEWELLERY GALERIA SCHUBERT Located in the Town Hall, World of Amber has an impressive and reasonably priced array of amber-themed jewellery and pieces. For those less keen on amber, they also offer other precious stones and metals and took a page out of the Bohemian book with a small section of crystal-ware. If amber is on your Wrocław to-do list, Schubert will do nicely without killing your travel budget or drawing you away from the heart of the city.QF‑5, Rynek Ratusz 20/22, tel. (+48) 71 343 95 51, www.jubilerschubert.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. LILOU Pendants, charms, and delicate chains abound in this boutique-y jewellery shop staffed by immaculately-attired ladies keen to assist and advise potential buyers. Glamorous but not intimidating, this is the place to browse miniature shiny trinkets during an afternoon shopping break.QA‑3, ul. Świdnicka 3-5, tel. (+48) 71 343 22 97, www.lilou.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

ART & ANTIQUES KARTELL FLAGSTORE Combining creativity and functionality since 1949, this Milanese design company known for colourful plastic creations has spawned flagstores all over Europe, including our charming little city.QE‑7, Pl. Kościuszki 3, tel. (+48) 606 79 54 19, www.kartellshop.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 82 Wrocław In Your Pocket

MIEJSCE (THE PLACE) This irresistibly cute stationery / books / home decorations shop is actually a mini gallery of well-known Polish publisher Ilustris, easily recognizable by cheery stick-figurestyle figures going about their daily lives, and a refreshingly blasé approach to nudity.QF‑5, ul. Odrzańska 8/1A, tel. (+48) 71 343 29 13, www.ilustris.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but note that since March 2018 a new law has gone into effect that will eventually ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely. To be phased in gradually over the next two years, the law will initially allow normal trading days on the first and last Sundays of each month, while forcing shops to close on the intervening Sundays. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops. The Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep on those Sunday when trade is allowed. Sundays when the shopping ban will be enforced are the following: Sept 9, 16, 23 Oct 14, 21 Nov 11, 18 Dec 9 iyp.me/wroclaw

Shopping POLISH POSTER GALLERY Poland has a proud tradition of graphic art design for film and theatre, which has basically developed into its own genre. This fantastic gallery is the place to check it out by browsing through binders full of hundreds of designs, many of them in stock and others available to order. Find alternative film posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks, plus amazing propaganda and theatre posters. A great place for souvenirs and gifts, if you aren’t into travelling with a poster tube, check out the amazing postcard collection. Anyone who appreciates graphic art will be glad to discover this place; recommended.QD‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11, www. polishposter.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM DE’ MOLIKA The closest thing in Wrocław to the indie record store you’ve always wanted to open. Run by two devoted owners, this tiny shop has all the new and vintage vinyl you won’t find in the ‘megastores,’ plus tonnes of CDs.QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 65, tel. (+48) 71 346 89 26, www.demolika.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. DUŻA CZARNA With a name that evokes an americano coffee in Polish and might remind some audiophiles of a certain eighties punk rock band in genderless English, this small shop located above a bookstore sells big black records with music ranging from Whitney Houston pop to Pink Floyd psychedelic rock to Barry White funk. Don’t bother looking for a shop sign; keep an eye peeled for the Dedalus.pl bookstore instead. Over 10,000 records to choose from!QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 28, tel. (+48) 511 51 95 11, www.duzaczarna.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

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TAJNE KOMPLETY Wrocław’s finest bookstore, located right in the Town Hall. With a bit of an alternative bent, and a surprisingly good English language selection, Tajne Komplety is the kind of place you could spend the entire day nosing through comics, art books, and even vinyl records. It twins as a cafe, so don’t expect to be the only one there taking advantage of the free wifi, coffee, tea, cakes, and more.QF‑5, Przejście Garncarskie 2, tel. (+48) 71 714 23 80, www. tajnekomplety.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES DRUCIARNIA ARTYSTYCZNA The woman behind this “Artistic Knittery” creates unique, whacky articles of clothing and accessories for free-spirited types, including leather bags with reproductions of famous images and artsy metal jewellery.QF‑4, ul. Grodzka 7. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Shopping OH MY! CONCEPT STORE Your one-stop shop for Polish designer clothing and accessories. Oh My! carries items by thirty independent brands such as Dawid Szulc, Aleksandra Król, Babiak&Fingas, and MISO by Joanna Cypriak. The Carrie Bradshaw-esque interior, stylish and roomy, is punctuated by collages courtesy of local artist GubRoshka, a testament to the owner’s love of all things artsy; indeed, Oh My! regularly hosts art and fashion events including exhibitions, meetings with designers, fashion awards, workshops, and more. QE‑7, ul. Świdnicka 44-46, tel. (+48) 71 786 43 43, www. ohmyconceptstore.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. ROCK SHOP Hard Rock Cafe is more than just a place to eat, drink, and look at vintage guitars - they also sell all sorts of merch, including tees, denim jackets, sweatshirts, beanies, pendants, collectible pins, and even some home & bath items, so if you find yourself dressed too stiffly for the occasion, the rock ‘n’ roll look is just a credit card tap away. QF‑5, Rynek 25, tel. (+48) 71 726 11 40, www. hardrock.com/cafes/wroclaw. Open 10:00 - 23:30. SCANDAL BOUTIQUE One-of-a-kind, head-turning pieces by Polish designers including Robert Kupisz, Mariusz Przybylski, Muses, Gold Killer, Joanna Muzyk, and Just Paul all in a gorgeous space inside the Monopol Hotel on ul. Świdnicka. Expect good quality, sharp design, and high prices.QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 33, tel. (+48) 790 47 06 66. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS CEPELIA For over 55 years, this well-recognised company has been promoting and preserving Polish folk art and handicrafts with a wide selection of ceramics, wood carvings, knitwork, wickery, and much more. A lot of is touristy rubbish, but we’ve always fancied the folk costumes (our birthday’s coming up). This shop is huge and seamlessly conjoined to a folk art gallery.QG‑4, Pl. Biskupa Nankiera 5/6, tel. (+48) 71 343 59 79. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

youtube.com/inyourpocket FOLKOWO-LUDOWO If you’re after some nice folksy souvenirs, this is your place: located a pebble’s throw from the main square, Folkowo-Ludowo is packed with paintings by local artists, amber jewellery, folk art, handmade wooden products, traditional pottery from Opole, handmade tablecloths, and all sorts of items inspired by traditional design.QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 43/44, tel. (+48) 71 740 85 25. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. FOLKSTAR Do all your souvenir shopping in one place, assuming that you don’t immediately get dizzy from the ubiquitous floral patterns (and we really mean ubiquitous - it’s intense). Surprisingly low on kitsch, this little shop actually carries loads of cute trinkets we wouldn’t mind having around the house.QF‑4, ul. Odrzańska 15, tel. (+48) 792 87 70 22, www.folkstar.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 18:00. MANUFAKTURA W BOLESŁAWCU For souvenirs which are both authentic and actually useful, hand-painted pottery is the way to go; easily recognisable across Poland, these beauties from the Bolesławiec Pottery Factory have a trademark look and a tradition dating back to the 14th century. Buy your family a tea set and be done with shopping for this trip.QE‑4, ul. Malarska 25/5, tel. (+48) 501 02 44 68, www.polish-pottery.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00. VENA POTTERY (GALERIA VENA) If you aren’t familiar with the universally-loved Bolesławiec style of Polish ceramic, which hails from a little town not far to the west of Wrocław, then make sure you drop into this shop on the market square and educate yourself. Hand-painted in traditional folk motifs, Vena produces pottery that not only looks unique and beautiful, but is also practical for everyday use. This is one of the best collections we’ve seen anywhere and a foolproof gift-giving plan for anyone with a kitchen.QA‑3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 344 43 70, www.vena-ceramika.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. WROCŁAW SOUVENIRS Large and perfectly placed on the market square, it’s no surprise that this is one of the longest-running and most successful souvenir shops in town. With all manner of local Wrocław and Polish souvenirs, including an impressive collection of amber and other jewellery, gnome figurines, photo albums, t-shirts, bags, magnets, mugs, keychains, postcards, paintings and more, there’s even a couch for taking a rest when all those shopping bags start weighing you down.QE‑5, Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 74. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

84 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Lilou Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Lilou Forever Love Paradise Harmony Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Harmony Lilou Soleil Love

Shopping

Boutique - Atelier

Symbols of precious moments Lilou is an upscale polish jewelry brand created by Magdalena Mousson-Lestang. Lilou’s philosophy is to create unique, engraved j e w e l r y , customized and customizable to mark events, small and big stories of your life, emotions or simply to please or be pleased. Real caskets in terms of architecture, Lilou Boutique - Atelier are warm and inviting stores where engraving is handmade on demand. Lilou jewelry is made of 14k gold, 925 silver or 23 k. platedgold, and can be accessorized with strings, ribbons, leather bracelets and precious stones, crystals and pearls. Mark stories of your life by creating unique, engraved jewelry.

WROCŁAW, 3-5 Świdnicka Street WROCLAVIA, 1 Sucha Street lilouparis.com /bemylilou

/bemylilou

Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

iyp.me/polandblog September – December 2018 85 Soleil Lilou Toujours Bonheur Love Happiness Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Harmony Soleil Love Happiness Soleil Soleil Forever Paradise Harmony

Shopping MARKETS HALA TARGOWA Designed by Richard Pluddemann and Heinrich Kuster in the neogothic style, Wrocław’s Market Hall was built in 1906-1908 and still serves as one of the top places to shop for produce, despite a proliferation of convenience stores and supermarkets. Simply put, this is a place with a lot of soul, visited for the aesthetic and nostalgic aspect as much as practicality. Sporting a handsome, traditional-looking facade and a cathedral-like interior, this innovative reinforcedconcrete structure directly inspired Max Berg to create Wrocław’s UNESCO-listed Centennial Hall. On the ground floor you’ll find earnest locals hawking top quality fruit and vegetables, as well as a wide selection of local cheese, salami, and hams, while upstairs is a bewildering array of bric-a-brac, nylon underwear, and plastic kitchen utensils, and a set of surprisingly clean and modern public toilets. As a bonus, see if you can spot a tiny cafe where aeropress champion Filip Kucharczyk brews some truly splendid coffee. And if you need another reason to visit, you might be interested to know that a new craft beer pub named Targowa has made a home for itself in the market’s cellar.QG‑4, ul. Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 31. Open 08:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun.

Gifts & Souvenirs Geschenke Regalos Подарки

RYNEK 3 MAIN SQUARE WROCŁAW 86 Wrocław In Your Pocket

ŚWIEBODZKI BAZAAR If you want a real cultural adventure that you’ll remember for a long, long time, head to the no-man’s-land behind the defunct Świebodzki train station on a Sunday afternoon and check out this unbelievable open-air bazaar sprawling endlessly west over the train tracks. A truly mind-blowing scene, the size and scope of this market is almost hard to comprehend given its location; from the main entrance near Plac Orląt Lwowskich it unfolds through an endless maze of blue and white striped tents, before devolving into acres of rubbish laid out on dirty blankets over the train tracks or the muddy, barren earth. Here you can buy literally anything under the sun at prices about 50% lower than those you might expect to find anywhere so audacious as to have a floor or a roof. Some of it is perfectly legit, of course, some of it quite dodgy, and most of it complete rubbish; amateur photographers and cultural anthropologists will have a field day here. As mentioned above, the days of this phenomenon are numbered, as the Polish State Railways are planning to resume train service to the station in the near future, probably as early as this year or the next, though there have been a few false alarms in the past couple years.QE‑4, ul. Robotnicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 717 12 54. Open Sun 06:00 - 15:00 only.

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Shopping SHOPPING MALLS FENIKS DEPARTMENT STORE Relive the glorious days of the People’s Republic of Poland – or rather the nineties, after communism fell and goods like toilet paper, artificial flowers, and coffee mugs with faces became plentiful - in this still-functioning remnant of a state-run economy. Dating back to 1902, when it opened as the Barasch Brothers Department Store, Feniks was taken from its original owners as a result of anti-Semitic policies in what was then a part of Nazi Germany, and promptly made government property when Wrocław was transferred to post-WWII Poland. Prior to privatisation, domy handlowe (department stores) were the place to purchase your biannual pair of shoes using ration stamps or join a waiting list for some furniture amid chronic underproduction. Now crammed with all sorts of colourful merchendise, Feniks is still going strong due to its convenient Main Square location. Well recommended for the cultural and historical factor alone, but convenient for travel essentials as well.QF‑5, ul. Rynek 31/32, tel. (+48) 71 377 18 00, www.feniks.wroc. pl. Open 06:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 18:00. GALERIA DOMINIKAŃSKA Wrocław’s most accessible and well-known retail centre, Galeria Dominikańska is a mere five minutes east of the main square, meaning you’re likely to cross paths with it by accident and you’re probably going to get sucked in - as do 13 million people each year. Among the 100 shops (including VAN GRAAF, Reserved, CCC, Max Mara, Kazar, Carrefour, Media Markt, Empik, and an iSpot) you’ll also find some restaurants (Pizza Hut, Ohh! Sushi & Grill, Kuchnia Express Marche, Sevi Kebab, Salad Story, LuLuCafe, Green Cafe Nero, Max Premium Burgers, Sphinx), and drug stores Sephora and Douglas.QG‑6, Pl. Dominikański 3, tel. (+48) 71 344 95 17, www.galeria-dominikanska.pl. Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. ARKADY WROCŁAWSKIE One of Wrocław’s most centrally located shopping malls; find Arkady Wrocławskie tucked not far behind the train station. With 110 stores across 30,000 square metres, brand highlights of this upscale retail centre include Cubus, LH Market, H&M, New Yorker, Sportisimo, and more. Other diversions you can seek out are the restaurants and cafes, cushy children’s playpen, and a truly impressive two-storey aquarium. Within walking distance of most places and easily accessed by tram, once you’re inside Arkady Wrocławskie, good luck making your way out again.QE‑8, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2-4, tel. (+48) 71 776 11 22, www.arkadywroclawskie. pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. iyp.me/polandblog

4 FLOORS OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 100 YEARS OF ACTIVITY

A Shopping Mall with Tradition on Market Square Rynek 31/32, Wroc≥aw Phone: +48 71 377 18 02

Main entrance between Burger King & McDonaldís September – December 2018

Shopping valid for almost all Magnolia Park stores. To get there hop on tram no. 3, 10, 20, or 33 at ‘Rynek’ or no. 31, 32 at ‘pl. Legionów’, getting off at ‘Niedźwiedzka’ (a mere ten-minute journey).Qul. Legnicka 58 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 338 44 75, www.magnoliapark.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00. RENOMA One of the largest pre-war department stores in Europe, this magnificent consumer showpiece was added to the Register of Historical Monuments in 1977 and has now been restored and modernised for today’s retail market. The unique 1930s facade of ceramic tiles and gilded heads has been returned to its former glory while inside you’ll find today’s most cutting-edge brands, plus a third floor restaurant with fine views of the Old Town. Along with the original building’s refurbishment, a new modern wing was added on Plac Czysty. Easily outclassing the city’s other shopping malls and smack in the centre, if it was in our disposition to call a shopping mall a must-see attraction, this would fit the bill. QE‑7, ul. Świdnicka 40, tel. (+48) 71 772 58 20, www. renoma-wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

GALERIA HANDLOWA SKY TOWER You may have noticed Wrocław has beefed up its skyline, realising the arrival of its first bona fide skyscraper with Sky Tower, the sparkling 212 m three-tiered behemoth you see looming over the city just minutes south of the centre. Comprising a small city in and of itself with residential apartments, office, and retail space, the ‘podium’ level alone boasts three floors full of boutique shops, restaurants, cafes, services, and sports facilities. Here you’ll find over 80 top name brands, over a dozen restaurants and cafes, a supermarket, fitness centre and spa, dance studio, and plenty more.QC‑9, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 95, tel. (+48) 71 738 31 11, www.galeria.skytower.pl. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. MAGNOLIA PARK Opened in October 2007, Magnolia Park could be easily interpreted as a symbol of Wrocław’s rocket blast into the 21st century. Situated close to the city centre, Wrocław’s biggest retail complex features over 260 popular chain and designer stores, including Decathlon, Media Markt, Tesco, eobuwie.pl, Zara and Zara Home, Peek&Cloppenburg, Castorama, H&M, Reserved, and Bershka, and you can even take a personal shopping assistant with you to browse for free! Additionally, plenty of space has been set aside for recreation with a multiplex cinema, outdoor workout zone, basketball court, playground, plus cafes and fast food chains like Wedel, Karmello, Starbucks, North Fish, KFC, and McDonald’s. You can also purchase mall-wide gift cards, 88 Wrocław In Your Pocket

WROCLAVIA Wrocław got a brand new bus station last year, and that could only mean one thing - Wrocław also got a brand new shopping centre to go along with it. Beyond stocking up on travel essentials like food, toiletries, magazines, and coffee for the bleary-eyed, visitors can use the time between connections to drift in and out of stores like Sfera, Forever 21, Uterqüe, Steve Madden, Estée Lauder, Mohito, Zara, Bershka, and some 180 others. There’s also an IMAX-equipped Cinema City, an amusement centre for children, and even a 24hr gym. Of note to travellers who don’t have time to venture out to city centre is the upstairs Grand Kitchen food court, which mercifully goes beyond the expected fast food joints and offers some real food at Blue Frog, Vapiano, Wrocław staple Pasibus, and others, plus good coffee from Etno Cafe and juices from Frankie’s, two more familiar Wrocław brands.QF‑9, ul. Sucha 1, tel. (+48) 71 748 30 00, www.wroclavia.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Restaurants and Cinema City remain open on shopping-ban Sundays. WROCŁAW FASHION OUTLET This 18,000 square metre outlet centre close to the Wrocław Airport is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the 100+ brands you’ll find here include Guess, Calzedonia, Levi’s, New Balance, Pepe Jeans, Mustang, Adidas, Nike, and Lacoste. As of recently, there’s also a Pasibus burger truck parked outside (open even on shopping-ban Sundays, 12:00-21:00). If you need some new designer stuff jump on bus 106 at either ‘Renoma’ or ‘Pl. Orląt Lwowskich’ or bus 132 at ‘Rynek’, getting off at ‘Mińska (Rondo Rotm. Pileckiego)’ each time; bus 106 will also take you directly to the airport, if your shopping is super last-minute.Qul. Graniczna 2 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 374 00 45, www.wroclawfashionoutlet.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. iyp.me/wroclaw

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September – December 2018

Directory CURRENCY EXCHANGE

THE LOWER SILESIAN CHAMBER OF CRAFTQE‑5, Pl. Solny 13, tel. (+48) 71 344 86 91, www.izba.wroc.pl.

Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find in Wrocław, but as with any international destination, it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never change your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission.

WESTERN CHAMBER OF COMMERCEQF‑6, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 41/43, tel. (+48) 71 795 06 56, www.zig.pl.

KANTOR QF‑5, ul. Oławska 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 78, www. dorex.com.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. KANTOR CENT QF‑5, ul. Świdnicka 3, tel. (+48) 71 372 35 02, www. centkantor.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. KANTOR DUKAT QF‑5, ul. Szewska 22/23, tel. (+48) 71 344 76 58, www.kantordukat.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. KANTOR TUKAN QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 21/23, tel. (+48) 71 344 59 41, www.kantortukan.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun.

24HR PHARMACIES KATEDRALNA A good choice if you’re north of the old town by the Cathedral and the Botanical Garden.QJ‑3, ul. Sienkiewicza 54/56, tel. (+48) 71 322 73 15. POD LWAMI West of Old Town near the Archaeological Museum.QD‑5, Pl. Jana Pawła II 7, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 24.

24HR SHOPS DELIKATESYQE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27. DELIKATESY 24 QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 72, tel. (+48) 71 794 77 68.

BUSINESS ASSOCIATIONS BRITISH POLISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Qul. Strzegomska 142A, tel. (+48) 71 733 13 75, www. bpcc.org.pl. LOWER SILESIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QE‑7, ul. Świdnicka 39, tel. (+48) 71 344 78 25, www. dig.wroc.pl. 90 Wrocław In Your Pocket

CONSULATES & EMBASSIES In Wrocław, unfortunately, unless you are German or Austrian, your nearest consulate or embassy is likely in Kraków (272km away), Prague (335km), Berlin (346km) or Warsaw (347km). AUSTRIAN CONSULATE IN WROCŁAW Qul. Skwierzyńska 21/10, tel. (+48) 782 17 37 77, www. konsulat-austrii-wroclaw.pl. GERMAN CONSULATE IN WROCŁAW QH‑6, ul. Podwale 76, tel. (+48) 71 377 27 00, www. breslau.diplo.de.

DENTISTS DENTAL ART This private dental centre is waiting patiently for your emergency - as long as it happens between 21:00 and 23:00 (their opening hours for walk-ins). Otherwise, you’ll have to make an appointment.QE‑9, ul. Komandorska 53A/3B, tel. (+48) 71 373 22 66, www.dental-art.pl. Open 24h. PRESTIGE DENT This dentist office is right downtown, but you need to make an appointment beforehand.QF‑6, ul. Oławska 9, tel. (+48) 663 67 77 77, www.prestigedent.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun.

EMERGENCY ROOM 4 WOJSKOWY SZPITAL KLINICZNYQul. Weigla 5 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 261 66 02 22, www.4wsk.pl.

INTERNET CAFES INTERMAX Very expensive and unpleasant printing, copying and faxing services.QE‑5, ul. Psie Budy 10/11, tel. (+48) 71 794 05 73, www.imx.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 4zł/hour.

LAUNDRY SPEED QUEEN LAUNDRYQE‑3, ul. Kurkowa 18, tel. (+48) 570 17 00 12, www.samo-pranie.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

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Directory Full contents online: wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

POST OFFICES POCZTA POLSKA Typically (in)efficient Polish post office.QF‑5, Rynek 28, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 32, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs. POCZTA POLSKA This huge, multi-floor complex includes all your postal needs and also houses a museum on the history of the Polish Postal Service (see Sightseeing for more).QH‑6, ul. Krasińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 81, www.pocztapolska.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Fri 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

PRIVATE CLINICS LUX-MED (LUX-MED CENTRUM MEDYCZNE) Qul. Legnicka 51/53, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www. luxmed.pl. MEDICOVER Hope you don’t end up here (not that the people here aren’t lovely, but you know what we mean).QD‑8, Powstańców Śląskich 7A, tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover. com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun.

RELIGIOUS SERVICES ROMAN CATHOLIC PARISH OF ST. CHARLES BOROMEUSZ Home of the Pastoral Centre for English Speakers, St. Charles Boromeusz in Fabryczna is essentially the headquarters of Wrocław’s international Catholic community. Englishlanguage masses take place on Sundays at 16:00. The parish also offers confession and priest services in English, Englishlanguage wedding ceremonies, etc. Visit their website for more information.QB‑10, ul. Krucza 58 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 361 52 65, www.pastoralcentre.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES UNIVERSAL EXPRESS RELOCATIONS International moving company (household goods, personal effects, office equipment).QAl. Jaworowa 14/2, tel. (+48) 71 357 17 87, www.uer.pl.

TRANSLATORS & INTERPRETERS EXPRESS Translates to and from most of European languages.QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 92/5, tel. (+48) 71 344 76 65, www. tlumaczwroclaw.com.pl. iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

reklama_60x185-2018

Hotels

Chrapek, the little snorer, sleeps it off outside the Patio Hotel. More gnomes on p.67. | © Klearchos Kapoutsis/flickr.com/CC BY 2.0

No matter what end of the price spectrum you’re able to entertain, in Wrocław you have plenty of options from 5-star presidentials to budget boarding houses, boutique B&Bs to boisterous hostels, historic apartments to business suites. The market is positively flooded with hotel rooms (well over 3,500), with several new options opening each year. On our website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com - we list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and around the Lower Silesian capital, with full descriptive reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide no longer allow us to include all of that content here as we once did, however we still provide an updated list of reputable hotels, apartments and hostels below. Sleep well.

CREAM OF THE CROP DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOTEL WROCŁAW QH‑6, ul. Podwale 84, tel. (+48) 71 777 00 00, www. wroclaw.doubletree.com. 189 rooms (12 apartments). PU6KHCFw hhhhh MONOPOL QE‑6, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2, tel. (+48) 71 772 37 77, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. 121 rooms (14 suites). PU6KHCDFw hhhhh 92 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted F Fitness centre

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

D Sauna

L Guarded parking on site

6 Animal friendly

w Wellness

C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available

PLATINUM PALACE Qul. Powstańców Śląskich 204 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 327 06 00, www.platinumpalace.pl. 46 rooms (41 singles, 41 doubles, 5 suites). PUL6KHDFw hhhhh SOFITEL WROCŁAW OLD TOWN QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 67, tel. (+48) 71 358 83 00, www. sofitel-wroclaw.com. 205 rooms (15 apartments). PU6KHDFw hhhhh THE GRANARY LA SUITE HOTEL WROCLAW CITY CENTER QF‑6, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 00, www. thegranaryhotel.com. 46 rooms (7 apartments). PU 6KHF hhhhh

• The only such place in Poland! • Modern design in a historic printing house • Interior design inspired by love for bicycles • Right next to the railway station • Good location to explore Wrocław

Aparthotel Bike Up

Kościuszki 51B • 50-011 Wrocław +48 71 7570805 reservation@bikeup.com.pl facebook/aparthotel.bikeup

UPMARKET ART HOTEL QE‑4, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 20, tel. (+48) 71 787 74 00, www. arthotel.pl. 80 Total rooms. PUL6KHF hhhh DWÓR POLSKI QE‑5, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 372 34 15, www. dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. 28 rooms (4 apartments). 6KH hhhh EUROPEUM QE‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27A, tel. (+48) 71 371 44 00, www.europeum.pl. 36 Total rooms. PULKH DF hhh MERCURE WROCŁAW CENTRUM QG‑6, Pl. Dominikański 1, tel. (+48) 71 323 27 00, www. mercure.com. 151 rooms (7 apartments). PUL6 KHw hhhh PARK HOTEL DIAMENT WROCŁAW Qul. Muchoborska 10 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 735 03 50, www.hotelediament.pl. 132 rooms (3 suites, 2 apartments). PU6KHDF hhhh iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Hotels PURO HOTEL WROCŁAW QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 6, tel. (+48) 71 772 51 00, www. purohotel.pl. 102 Total rooms. PUL6KH hhh Q HOTEL PLUS WROCŁAW QD‑9, ul. Zaolziańska 2, tel. (+48) 71 749 17 00, www. qhotels.pl. 127 Total rooms. PTUL6KHF hhhh QUBUS HOTEL WROCŁAW QF‑5, ul. Św. Marii Magdaleny 2, tel. (+48) 71 797 98 00, www.qubushotel.com. 83 Total rooms. PUL6K HCDF hhhh SCANDIC WROCŁAW QE‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 49/57, tel. (+48) 71 787 00 00, www.scandichotels.com. 164 Total rooms. PUL6 KHDF hhhh SLEEPWALKER BOUTIQUE SUITES QE‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 733 35 55 35, www.sleepwalker.pl. 18 rooms (8 apartments). PU LH

MID-RANGE

A pleasant stay in Wrocław’s Old Town • convenient location • comfortable for work and relaxation • free wi-ﬁ • welcome package in each room • TV with Canal+ • restaurant serving Polish and International cuisine • conferences, trainings and banquets

BOUTIQUE BRAJT HOTEL QD‑5, ul. Pawła Włodkowica 18, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 81, www.brajt.pl. 8 Total rooms. PUL6 hhh CAMPANILE WROCŁAW STARE MIASTO QE‑3, ul. Jagiełły 7, tel. (+48) 71 326 78 00, www. campanile-wroclaw.pl. 110 Total rooms. PU6KH hhh CITI HOTEL’S QB‑4, ul. Trzemeska 10, tel. (+48) 71 889 00 15, www. cfihotels.pl. 63 Total rooms. L6 DUET QD‑5, ul. Św. Mikołaja 47-48, tel. (+48) 71 785 51 00, www.hotelduet.pl. 39 Total rooms. PL6KH hhh EUROPEJSKI QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 88, tel. (+48) 71 772 10 00, www. europejskiwroclaw.pl. 96 Total rooms. PU6KH hhh IBIS STYLES WROCŁAW CENTRUM QG‑8, ul. Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 00, www.ibis.com. 133 Total rooms. PUL6H hhh

ul. Jagiełły 7, 50-201 Wrocław Tel. +48 71 326 78 00, Fax: +48 71 326 78 01 wroclaw@campanile.com, www.campanile-wroclaw.pl

94 Wrocław In Your Pocket

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Hotels youtube.com/inyourpocket NOVOTEL WROCŁAW CITY Qul. Wyścigowa 35 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 339 80 51, www.accorhotels.com. 145 Total rooms. PU6KH hhh PATIO QE‑5, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25, tel. (+48) 71 375 04 00, www.hotelpatio.pl. 50 Total rooms. PKH hhh POLONIA QE‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 66, tel. (+48) 71 343 10 21, www. poloniawroclaw.pl. 123 Total rooms. U6K hhh

Mennicza Fusion Restaurant

SOFIA QG‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 104 (entrance from ul. Gwarna 23), tel. (+48) 71 372 32 00, www.hotelsofia.pl. 31 Total rooms. PU6HDw hhh SYSTEM HOTEL WROCŁAW QAl. Kromera 16, tel. (+48) 71 364 97 00, www.systemhotels.pl/wroclaw. 107 Total rooms. PUL6K HC hhh

www.thegranaryhotel.com + 48 71 395 26 00

TUMSKI QG‑3, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 99, www. hotel-tumski.com.pl. 57 rooms (1 suite, 1 apartment). U6KH hhh WODNIK QL‑7, ul. Na Grobli 28, tel. (+48) 71 343 36 67, www. wodnik-hotel.pl. 18 Total rooms. LKH hhh

BUDGET AKIRA BED & BREAKFAST QE‑2, Pl. Strzelecki 28, tel. (+48) 71 323 08 88, www. hotelakira.pl. 21 Total rooms. 6 B&B HOTEL QG‑6, ul. Piotra Skargi 24-28, tel. (+48) 71 324 09 80, www.hotelbb.pl. 140 Total rooms. PXUL6H hh BOOGIE HOSTEL DELUXE QE‑5, ul. Białoskórnicza 6, tel. (+48) 691 35 02 65, www. boogiehostel.com. 13 Total rooms. CILANTRO BED & BREAKFAST QE‑2, ul. Pomorska 32/26-29, tel. (+48) 71 793 86 82, www.cilantro.pl. 9 Total rooms. L6 HOTEL PIAST QF‑8, ul. Piłsudskiego 98, tel. (+48) 71 343 00 33, www. piastwroclaw.pl. 92 Total rooms. PU6KH hh iyp.me/polandblog

September – December 2018

Hotels IBIS BUDGET WROCŁAW STADION Qul. Lotnicza 151 (Pilczyce), tel. (+48) 71 353 84 48, www.ibisbudget.com. 122 Total rooms. PUL6 h

APARTMENTS APARTHOTEL BIKE UP QF‑8, ul. Kościuszki 51B, tel. (+48) 22 211 12 22. 6 ART APART QI‑6, ul. Walońska 7/1, tel. (+48) 667 71 71 71, www. artapart.pl. 56 apartments. L6 EXCLUSIVE APARTMENTS HOTELS QG‑5, ul. Krawiecka 6/4, tel. (+48) 515 13 81 77, www. exclusiveapartments.pl. 70 apartments. P LEOAPART QF‑4, ul. Więzienna 5, tel. (+48) 71 330 71 21, www. leoapart.com. 50 apartments. L6

ul. Pomorska 32, 50-218 Wrocław tel./fax 71 793 86 82 info@hotelcilantro.pl

LUCKY APARTMENTS QG‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 15, tel. (+48) 730 89 99 88, www. luckyapart.pl/en. 41 apartments. 6 NO NAME APARTMENTS QE‑5, ul. Ruska 41/42, tel. (+48) 735 14 31 43, www. nonameapartments.com. 6 rooms (6 apartments). L

+48 730 899 988 +48 794 498 998

Lucky Apartments & One Lucky Hostel

SILVER APARTMENTS QG‑5, ul. Krawiecka 3/18, tel. (+48) 698 68 83 44, www. silverapartments.pl. 39 apartments. PL6 ST. DOROTHY’S QF‑6, ul. Świdnicka 24/26 lok.2, tel. (+48) 602 50 66 47, www.stdhostel.pl. 6 apartments, 15 dorm beds.

HOSTELS BOOGIE APARTHOUSE QE‑4, ul. Garbary 2, tel. (+48) 605 07 10 10, www. boogiehostel.com/boogie-aparthouse. 14 rooms (2 singles, 8 doubles, 2 triples, 2 quads, 35 dorm beds). P

Hostel & Apartments in Wroclaw Old Town!

Reception open 24/7

www.luckyapart.pl wroclaw@luckyapart.pl Ul. Wita Stwosza 12 96 Wrocław In Your Pocket

BOOGIE HOSTEL QD‑5, ul. Ruska 34, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72, www. boogiehostel.com. 20 rooms (19 singles, 19 doubles, 19 triples, 2 quads, 8 dorm beds). P

AIRPORT HOTEL TERMINAL HOTEL Qul. Rakietowa 33 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 773 55 75, www.terminalhotel.pl. 51 Total rooms. PU 6KH hhh iyp.me/wroclaw

Hotels /polandinyourpocket CINNAMON QF‑6, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. (+48) 71 344 58 58, www.cinnamonhostel.com. 10 rooms (3 doubles, 1 quad, 3 six-person room, 3 eight-person room, 52 dorm beds). 6 FIVE STARS HOSTEL QD‑5, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 881 33 93 39, www.5starshostel.com/pl. PUL6 GRAMPA’S HOSTEL QF‑2, Pl. Św. Macieja 2/1, tel. (+48) 789 24 12 77, www. grampahostel.pl. 9 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles, 1 quad, 48 dorm beds, 2 eight-person room, 1 ten-person room, 1 twelve-person room). HOSTEL BEMMA QE‑5, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 15, tel. (+48) 531 53 15 98, www.hostelbemma.pl. 17 rooms (9 singles, 7 doubles, 4 triples, 2 quads, 50 dorm beds). 6 MLECZARNIA QD‑6, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 787 75 70, www. mleczarniahostel.pl. 8 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles, 4 triples, 1 quad, 34 dorm beds). MOON HOSTEL QE‑6, ul. Krupnicza 6-8 (entrance from Kazimierza Wielkiego 27), tel. (+48) 508 77 72 00, www.moonhostel. pl/wroclaw. 43 rooms (16 doubles, 12 triples, 6 quads, 5 5-person room, 2 6-person room, 1 8-person room). L6 ONE LUCKY HOSTEL QF‑5, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 730 89 99 88, www. luckyapart.pl/pl/hostel. 32 rooms (9 doubles, 14 quads, 4 five-person, 3 six-person, 2 eight-person). L6

HOTEL | CONGRESS CENTRE | RESTAURANT

THE ONE HOSTEL QF‑5, ul. Rynek 30, tel. (+48) 71 337 24 02, www. onehostel.pl. 24 rooms (14 singles, 14 doubles, 9 triples, 1 quad, 96 dorm beds). H WRATISLAVIA QH‑7, ul. Komuny Paryskiej 19, tel. (+48) 71 360 08 22, www.hostel-wratislavia.pl. 33 rooms (2 singles, 5 doubles, 3 triples, 16 quads, 10 apartments, 40 dorm beds). U6

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www.terminalhotel.pl

ul. Rakietowa 33, Wrocław tel.: + 48 71 773 55 75, biuro@terminalhotel.pl

September – December 2018

Index Active Poland 80 Ahimsa Restaurant & Club 71 Akira Bed & Breakfast 95 AleBrowar 73 Amorinio.pl 52 Aparthotel Bike Up 96 Archaeology Museum 47 Archdiocese Museum 39 Architecture Museum 47 Arkady Wrocławskie 87 Art Apart 96 Art Cafe Kalambur 78 Art Hotel 93 Baku Lounge 57 Barka Tumska 58 Baszta Niedźwiadka 34 B&B Hotel 95 Bema Cafe (Plac Solny) 52 Bernard 58 Bezsenność 78 Bierhalle 76 Bistro Station 70 Blackboard Pub 73 BLT & Taps 55 Boogie ApartHouse 96 Boogie Hostel 96 Boogie Hostel Deluxe 95 Botanical Garden 39 Boutique Brajt Hotel 94 Brasserie 27 58 Browar Złoty Pies 76 Butchery & Grill 55 Cafeterie Chic 37 Campanile Wrocław Stare Miasto 94 CAMPO 59 Capri Ristorante Pizzeria 64 Cathedral of St. John the Baptist 39 Centennial Hall & Discovery Centre 41 Central Cafe 52, 60 Cepelia 84 Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 81 Chatka Przy Jatkach 67 Church of Saints Peter & Paul 37 Church of the Holy Cross / St. Bartholomew's 38 Cilantro Bed & Breakfast 95 Cinnamon 97 Citi Hotel's 94 Cocktail Bar by Incognito 73 Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky 73 Czary Mary 59 Darea Sushi Korean - Japanese Restaurant 66 De' Molika 83 Dim Sum Garden 56 Dinette 60

98 Wrocław In Your Pocket

Dolmed 10 Domówka 78 Don Corleone 64 DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Wrocław 92 Druciarnia Artystyczna 83 Duet 94 Duża Czarna 83 Dwór Polski 68, 93 Egg Cafe 60 Ethnographic Museum 47 Etno Cafe 52 Europejski 94 Europeum 93 Exclusive Apartments Hotels 96 Exit Room 80 Feniks Department Store 87 Firlej 77 Five Stars Hostel 97 Folkowo-Ludowo 84 Folkstar 84 Free Walkactive! Tour 26 Funboat 43 FutureNet Cafe 53 Galeria Dominikańska 87 Galeria Handlowa Sky Tower 88 Galeria Schubert 82 Giselle French Bakery Cafe 53 Grampa's Hostel 97 Grey Music Club 78 Hala Targowa 33, 86 Hard Rock Cafe 55, 74 Hostel Bemma 97 Hotel Piast 95 Hydropolis 50

In this case, in soothing pastels

Ibis Budget Wrocław Stadion 96 Ibis Styles Wrocław Centrum 94 Iglica 40 Imaginarium 81 Infowro Jatki Wrocław 27 Jadka 68 Japanese Garden 42 Jaś & Małgosia 30 Kameleon Department Store 7 Karczma Lwowska 68 Kartell Flagstore 82 Kofeina by Incognito 53 Konspira 47, 68 Kontynuacja 74 Kościuszko Square 8 KRVN 74 Kwatera Główna 80 La Maddalena 59 La Scala 65 Le Bistrot Parisien 57 Leoapart 96 Ligero Cigar & Rum Lounge 74 Lilou 82 Lower Silesian Film Centre 80 Lower Silesian Provincial Office 8 Lucky Apartments 96 Lwia Brama2 37 Magnolia Park 88 Malarska 25 69 Mama Manousch 59 Mañana Cafe 78 Manufaktura w Bolesławcu 84 Marina 60 Market Square 29

Marynka Piwo i Aperitivo 74 Masala Indian Restaurant 57 Mennicza Fusion 60 Mercure Wrocław Centrum 93 Mia Art Gallery 18 Miejsce 82 Military Museum 48 Mleczarnia 75, 97 Moaburger 56 Modra Odra Fish & More 60 Modra Odra Street Food 70 Monopol 92 Monopol Spa & Wellness Centre 81 Moon Hostel 97 Municipal Swimming Pools 81 Nadodrze Cafe Resto Bar 60 Najadacze.pl 71 National Museum 48 Natural History Museum 48 Nietota 75 Niezły Dym 65 No Name Apartments 96 Novotel Wrocław City 95 Nowe Horyzonty 81 Ogień 65 Ohh!! Sushi & Grill 66 Oh My! Concept Store 84 OK Wine Bar 61, 74 Old Jewish Cemetery 44 One Lucky Hostel 97 Osiem Misek 56 OVO Bar & Restaurant 61 Paloma 53 Panczo 67 pan.puh 70 Pan Tadeusz Museum 49

Photo by Paweł Czerwiński, courtesy of Unsplash

iyp.me/wroclaw

Index

Wrocław’s modernism (p.6) comes in many colours. Papa Bar 75 Park Hotel Diament Wrocław 93 Pasibus 70 Passenger Cruises 26, 43 Patio 95 Phathathai 70 Piec na Szewskiej 65 Pinto Peri-Peri & Grill 70 Plac Solny 29 Platinum Palace 93 Pochlebna 60, 74 Pod Fredrą 69 Pod Papugami 61, 76 Polish Poster Gallery 83 Polonia 95 Post & Communications Museum 49 PRL 78 Przystań 61 PURO Hotel Wrocław 94 Q Hotel Plus Wrocław 94 Qubus Hotel Wrocław 94 Questa 62 Racławice Panorama 48 Renoma 7, 88 Restauracja Acquario 62 Restauracja Europejska 62 Restauracja Monopol 69 Rock Shop 84 Sarah 66 Scandal Boutique 84 Scandic Wrocław 94 Sedesowce 10 Sępolno 7 Setka - Bar Polski Ludowej 70 Silver Apartments 96 SleepWalker Boutique Suites 94

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Photo by Paweł Czerwiński, courtesy of Unsplash

Soczewka 56 Sofia 95 Sofitel Wrocław Old Town 93 Solpol 10 Spa Centre Wrocław 81 Spiż Brewery 76 Stare Jatki 31 Stary Klasztor 62 Statek Restauracja Wratislavia 63 St. Dorothy's 96 St. Elizabeth's Church 31 St. Martin's Church 38 Sukiennice 7 63 Surowiec 78 Świebodzki Bazaar 86 System Hotel Wrocław 95 Szajba 76 Szajnochy 11 66 Szewska Centrum 10 Szklarnia 76 Szlak Gondoli 43 Szynkarnia 76 Tajne Komplety 83 Taszka Wine & Petiscos 70 Terminal Hotel 96 Thai Lanna 81 The Bente Kahan Foundation 44 The Depot History Centre 49 The Four Dome Pavilion: Museum of Contemporary Art 41 The Granary La Suite Hotel Wroclaw City Center 93 The Henryk Tomaszewski Museum of Theather 49 The One Hostel 97 The Ossolineum 32

The Royal Palace, History Museum 50 The White Stork Synagogue 45 TourCity Panorama 26 Tourist Information 27 Tourist Information - Wrocław Airport 27 Tourist Information - Wrocław Główny 27 Tourist Information - Wrocław Zoo 27 Town Hall, Museum of Burgher Art 29

Trzonolinowiec 10 Tumski 95 Umami Dumpling & Pasta Bar 67 University Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus 32 Vega 71 Vena Pottery 84 Vertigo Jazz Club & Restaurant 63, 77 Viadrina Tours 26 Vinyl Cafe 53 Vivere Italiano 65 Warsztat - Food & Garden 63 Whiskey in the Jar 77 Winnica na Solnym 74 Wodnik 95 Wodnik Restaurant 64 W Oparach Dim Sum Bar 57 Wratislavia 43, 97 Wratislavia Tour 27 Wroclavia 88 Wrocław Aquapark 81 Wrocław Contemporary Museum 8, 50 Wrocław Fashion Outlet 88 Wrocław Fountain 42 Wrocław Sightseeing Tours 27 Wrocław Souvenirs 84 Wrocław University 32 Wrocław Zoo & Afrykarium 42 WuWA 7 ZENKA Cafe 64 zjemBAO 70

FEATURES & CATEGORIES Boat Rental & River Cruises Breakfast Breweries City Moat Currency Exchange Day Trips District of Mutual Respect Hydropolis Konspira Neon Wrocław Polish Food Quick Eats Racławice Panorama Street Art Sunday Shopping Ban The Lamplighter Transport App Wait, Where Am I? Wrocław Historical Timeline

43 60 76 34 90 26 45 50 47 30 68 70 48 33 82 38 15 25 17

September – December 2018

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