Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No18 by In Your Pocket City Guides

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Dubrovnik Spring 2016

The Year of St. Blaise Honoring the city’s patron Great escapes Where to venture out for an adventure

N°18 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

The editor’s choice on what not to miss this Spring

Arrival & Getting Around

Lost? Have no fear, IYP is here

City Basics 10 What you ought to know

The Year of St. Blaise

The city’s saviour

Culture & Events

A zest for experiencing new things

Restaurants 17 We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat Local Flavour

Whet your taste buds

Coffee & Cakes

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Restaurant Adio Mare Archives Get a taste for the local cuisine by visiting family run restaurants all over the County

Nightlife

Let the music take you higher

Sightseeing

Discover what we’ve uncovered

Dubrovnik Surroundings 44 All in a day or two

Leisure 54 For those wanting to chill and for those seeking a thrill Shopping

Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Hotels

The true meaning of “do not disturb”

Directory

Services you just may need

Maps & Index

Photo by Ivana Stanešić Read about who protects and keeps an eye over these walls on page 12

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Street Register City Centre Map City Map Dubrovnik County Map

62 63 64 66 Spring 2016

Foreword Dear traveller, you’ve just arrived to Dubrovnik, a fortified seaside town that has enough history, legend, and natural beauty to fully render the above words true. Indeed your first glimpse of the town, especially when descending along the airport road where you bypass stoned houses, terracotta roofs and green pines could be a love at first sight experience. But we’re here to help your stay be better than OK!

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 557 38 27, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o. Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja

Our feature spring edition brings with it heaps of info, places and events for you to see and do. Possible highlights should include a visit to the Pelješac area and its country farms that are rich in grapes and wine cellars. We have a feature article on St. Blaise which explains why he is protector and patron to the city. You’ll see his statues everywhere and in case you didn’t know, locals have been celebrating his feast day for over 1000 years; now that is truly astounding. We have a write up on the great Venetian painter Tiziano Vecellio (Titian) and his affiliation to Dubrovnik through his artworks. There are loads of events including the Spring Music Festival, Marco Polo Challenge and several wine extravaganzas for lovers of the fine grape. As always, café culture is part and parcel of life here! And in case you haven’t heard, a part of the new Star Wars film was recently filmed right here in the heart of the city with Luke and Darth at it again, an intergalactic spectacle indeed!

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Community Manager Eli Gajinov Design Ivana Mihoković Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov croatia@inyourpocket.com

So before you delve into your IYP guide, no matter how warm or crowded it may get, no matter which Hollywood star you may happen to come across, don’t forget that the Dubrovnik is firmly on the UNESCO heritage list and we hope you go away with some inspiring memories. And in the words of Obi-Wan Kenobi, ‘may the force be with you’.

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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6 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend. The app - available on both iOS and Android - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/ app on your smartphone to download it. To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE

ARRIVING BY BUS

The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (35 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (28kn one way), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn.

The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you're heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices. Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 0800 09 70.

DUBROVNIK AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA DUBROVNIK) QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33 33, headoffice@airport-dubrovnik.hr, www.airportdubrovnik.hr. EUROPEAN COASTAL AIRLINES Now it’s easier than ever to get from the mainland to the islands in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily hydroplane transfers. With these multiple flight connections throughout the Adriatic, you can even discover some of the most secluded islands along the coastline. At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up and running: Seaside Airport Lastovo Obala lastovskih ribara 4, Ubli, tel. (+385-20) 80 50 50, lastovo@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu

COACH STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, kolodvor@libertasdubrovnik.com, www. libertasdubrovnik.hr. Open 05:30 - 21:30.

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Seaside Airport Vela Luka Obala 4, Vela Luka, tel. (+385-20) 81 20 31, velaluka@ ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu. Dubrovnik Airport Čilipi, Konavle, www.ec-air.eu FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Jelsa and Split where they will have a dock. The Outdoor Sundeck & Lounge Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Split and Jelsa for now, and will soon be opening at the other locations. Souvenir shops are located at all of the airports. At the souvenir shops you can buy interesting souvenirs featuring hydroplane designs and useful beach products. Passengers at the Resnik Seaside Airport, which is located beneath the Split Airport, have a free shuttle transportation service from the Seaside Airport to the Split Airport and vice versa (about a 5 minute drive). Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the addresses mentioned above, as well as in the Split Airport, where they will also have a ticket office. And, of course, online at www.ec-air.eu. Working Hours for the Ticket & Check-in Offices, Put Divulje 7, Kaštel Štafilić: Monday - Friday 08:00 - 16:00, Dr. Franje Tuđmana Street, Kaštel Štafilić: Open 09:00 - 17:00, Jelsa (Island of Hvar) Lučice Street Open 07:00-20:00. During the summer months the Ticket Offices will be open even longer. The flight schedules can be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or printed copies are available at the docks. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Spring 2016

Arrival & Getting Around ARRIVING BY BOAT

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the official centres of the Dubrovnik Tourist Board. All the information and materials made available are free and you are more than welcome to visit them. GRUŽ QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. May Open 08:00 - 20:00. June Open 07:00 - 20:00. LAPAD QH‑2, Šetalište kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, ured.lapad@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik. hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. May 16 - May 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. June Open 08:00 - 21:00. LOPUD QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 75 90 86, ured. lopud@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. From May 16 - June 30 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Fri. PILE QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.pile@ tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. June Open 08:00 - 21:00. ŠIPAN QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, ured.sipan@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. From June Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. ZATON QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, ured.zaton@ tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. From May Open 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu, Sat 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. June Open 08:00 - 20:00.

8 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding. G&V LINE Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the G&V Line kiosk at least one hour before departure.QG‑1, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, gv-line@gv-line. hr, www.gv-line.hr. 25 - 95kn per person. JADROLINIJA Jadrolinja ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari. Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI‑2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, ag.dubrovnik@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:30, Mon, Wed 19:00 - 22:00, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 20:00. Sun 08:00 - 09:30. From May 20 Open 08:00 - 16:30, Mon, Wed, Fri 19:00 - 22:00, Tue, Thu 19:00 -20:00. KAPETAN LUKA, KRILO Krilo catamaran running to Dubrovnik from Split, via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet. Check sailing schedule here. QGat Sv Petra, tel. (+385-21) 64 54 76, ivana.tomic@ krilo.hr, www.krilo.hr. Open 07:30 - 18:30, Tue, Thu 06:00 - 16:00, Fri 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 07:30 - 20:00.

ARRIVING BY CAR For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy! dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around

PUBLIC TRANSPORT The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. LIBERTAS QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+38520) 35 70 20, libertas@libertasdubrovnik.com, www. libertasdubrovnik.hr.

PARKING Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate,

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although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 40kn per hour depending on which zone you’re in, and the season.

TAXI There are multiple taxi companies in Dubrovnik, so there should be no shortage of transport to get you from A to B. Rates appear to be uniform throughout the city, with prices starting at 27kn, and each kilometre costing you 9kn. RADIO TAXI DUBROVNIK Q tel. (+385-20) 41 14 11, www.radiotaxidubrovnik.com TAXI RAGUSA DUBROVNIK Q tel. (+385-) 800 14 41, www.taxidubrovnik.eu PLAVI TAXI DUBROVNIK Q tel. (+385-20) 33 22 22, taxiplavidubrovnik@gmail.com

TRAVEL AGENCIES GULLIVER TRAVEL Also at G-2, Babin Kuk, Mali Stradun, tel. 091 603 51 23. April October 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00.QI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www. gulliver.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A VIVADO QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. N Spring 2016

City Basics CUSTOMS As Croatia entered the EU on July 1,2013 there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER

is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

TOWED AWAY If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad, open 24/7). The bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English and accept payment by credit card. Sanitat Dubrovnik, tel. (+385-20) 33 10 16, 42 88 58, info@sanitatdubrovnik.hr, www.sanitatdubrovnik.hr

VISAS Since Croatia had become the member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, Croatian Visa Policies have since become fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping cen10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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City Basics

tres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

TOILETS There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00 - 23:00, Peskarija 07:00 - 02:00.

TIPPING Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

SMOKING Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you're prepared to move inside.

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany March 27 Easter March 28 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day May 26 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day Spring 2016

The Year of St. Blaise

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

According to legend, back in 972 AD, invading Venetians found themselves before the walls of the majestic city of Dubrovnik with the intention of conquering it overnight. However, their efforts stifled thanks to an apparition from St. Blaise to the then parish priest Stojko, subsequently the city was successfully defended and St. Blaise had become its official patron saint. From then on churches dedicated to St. Blaise began to spring up across the entire Dubrovnik region, reminding people of his background, contribution and most of all giving thanks for his intervention. Statues of St. Blaise were erected around Dubrovnik buildings, walls and gates. After Dubrovnik had gained its independence in 1358, much emphasis was assigned to placing statues and replicas of the saint in public buildings and areas. The largest number of sculptures was placed around the ring of the city walls, which symbolically reinforced their protective role. Inside the city, statues were erected on administration buildings; his image had adorned many manuscripts, charters and sailing permits, but also appeared on money, seals and flags. St. Blaise’s character was a reminder of commitment and responsibility, the so called duty of any citizen and he was therefore placed on the first page of the Dubrovnik Statute as well as on the stamps used for labelling criminals. His image of sitting on a throne and sending his blessing was a unifying message of heavenly protection with that of justice and self-consciousness to the city’s authorities. St. Blaise the martyr is known in other regions of Croatia as Blaž, or Sanctus Blasius in Latin. He was born in the town of Elaiussa Sebaste in former Armenia Minor that was ruled by Rome, and which is the present-day city of Sivas in central Turkey. The people and clergy elected him for bishop after the death of his predecessor. It is said that during the per12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

secution of Christians, this bishop of Elaiussa Sebaste was hiding in the mountains of Cappadocia and chose a lonely and dark cave for his home from which he carefully went out only at night to share comfort and help tortured and unhappy Christians. God gave him the power to become a friend of the wild beasts and they would bring him food, whilst he would heal them in return. By order of the then Roman governor Agricola, the Bishop was caught and convicted to the most serious suffering for not renouncing his faith, and was finally murdered in February of 317 AD. The Feast Day of St. Blaise has been celebrated for 1044 years and the City of Dubrovnik declared the year 2016 as the Year of St. Blaise, on the occasion of the 1700th anniversary since the martyrdom of the saint. It is also worth mentioning that the year 2016 also marks the 600th anniversary since the issuing of the abolition of slavery by the Great and General Counsel of the Dubrovnik Republic, which at the time was made up of 78 councillors and which on January 27, 1416, was among the first in Europe and the world to legally prohibit slave trade. 75 seats voted in favour and the proclamation came into force the day after, as soon as it was read out loud in the city’s streets and squares. The Feast of St. Blaise has been a part of the UNESCO Intangible Heritage since 2009 and is celebrated in the heart of winter. It is the central winter event that is both unique and has remained unchanged for centuries. What can be seen at this gracious time? There is the evening candlelit mass, a procession through the streets of the city, feštanjuli is a ceremony marking the blessing of the organisers who ensure that tradition is upheld, the unveiling of banners, mimosa and its symbolic beginning of Spring, and last but not least the feasting on šporki makaruli (a saucy meat pasta with century old tradition that leaves more on the chin then in dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

The Year of St. Blaise the mouth). All this makes the Dubrovnik Festivity as equally unique as St. Blaise himself. Traditionally, the celebration begins with a Candlemass or Candelaria on the 2nd of February; white doves are released in front of the saint’s church as a symbol of freedom and peace and the raising of St. Blaise's flag is held at Orlando's Pillar. Along with a church ceremony in Dubrovnik, a number of secular events are also organised during that period that are intended for residents and tourists alike. Restaurants offer typical winter specialties, exhibitions and concerts dedicated to St. Blaise are in abundance, and a walk through the city walls reveal more than one hundred stone statues of the patron saint. Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

The Feast of St. Blaise brings out the best of Dubrovnik, national costumes of Primorje, Župa Dubrovačka or Konavle evoke the time of old customs. Attention is drawn towards the colourful church banners and their fluttering on the square behind Orlando, as well as the group of trombunjeri in their eye-catching uniforms. The trombunjeri carry broad rifles on their shoulders and their gun shots recall the old times when Dubrovnik residents used them to frighten potential enemies. They fire shots before entering the city, at the Brsalje which is where at the time of the Republic any shooting with rifles and cannons used to be practiced. It is only in the evening hours, when the City is covered in darkness and the saint’s relics are resting in the treasury, do the village confraternities return home. Before the beautiful baroque entrance into the patron saint’s Church once can see a green laurel wreath, stained-glass windows above the entrance doors which are surrounded with ornamented stone walls, and statues of St. Blaise which for centuries have been holding the model of the city in his arms as if to bring his heart and protective embrace to his beloved city and its town folk. For over a thousand years this grand Medical city which sits beneath the Srđ Mountain has been celebrating the day of their patron saint with little change in custom and tradition. And it is true that Dubrovnik no longer has its Rector or grand nobility of yester year, but the beautiful stony Rectors Palace is still here, with the baroque Church of St. Blaise alongside it and the Baroque Cathedral, but most importantly the age-old commitment of its inhabitants to the patron saint. With their songs, hymns, lyrics, music and visual arts, Dubrovnik inhabitants will honour their patron saint throughout the year 2016, by way of religious and secular programmes. The completely renovated interior of the Church of St. Blaise is another important contribution to the celebration of the great anniversary. Finally, as St. Blaise is revered not only in Europe but throughout the world, the city will go all out in commemorating this gentle and virtuous bishop who had a gentle and harmonious soul. A true defender of Dubrovnik in all its hardships, whose sanctity is celebrated, whose impact has touched the lives of generations past and present, and whose impact has been felt on the overall life of the City of Dubrovnik. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

Photo by Aida Čakić

Spring 2016

Culture & Events

Aklapela Archives

CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERT 01.04 FRIDAY - 28.06 TUESDAY DUBROVNIK SYMPHONIC ORCHESTRA Dubrovnik's affiliation with music dates back to the 16th century. In saying that, the city's iconic symphonic orchestra was established in 1924 and today continues that honourable tradition with an amazing programme consisting of concerts on Tuesdays and Fridays and at four breath-taking venues. Keep an eye out on world renowned classical music artists who will join them on stage.QE‑1, D‑2, D‑3, B‑2, Fort Revelin; Dominican Church; Rector's Palace; Franciscan Church, www.dso.hr. Concerts start at 20:30.

EXHIBITIONS 15.12.2015 TUESDAY - 15.12.2016 THURSDAY UNDER PRESSURE Become a sea expert at the Natural History Museum of Dubrovnik where this all-year-round exhibition offers a thorough insight into what's under the sea in the Adriatic. Totally wild and totally made for adult and child, lots of visuals, fun and facts can be found without having to get all too wet!QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr. 29.01 FRIDAY - 03.10 MONDAY DIVE A love for the sea, a passion for diving and a favourite hobby in photography has allowed Dalibor Andres to merge all of the above into this one spectacular exhibition. Andres has won numerous awards, had publications of photographs in 14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

various magazines, books and international salons, and has participated in many festivals and competitions at home and abroad. See the best of the Adriatic through his lens… QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, www.pmd.hr. 14.03 MONDAY - 14.05 SATURDAY OLAF JORDAN - FACES OF THE BALKANS A series of portraits by the famous Swedish painter and artist Olaf Jordan created in the 1930s in the former Yugoslavia. Jordan's style tends to show a clear imprint of reality, the objective truth with special attention to the physical and character attributes pertaining to a nation. These portraits also show the diversity and richness of national costumes from the Balkans.QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, www.dumus.hr. 16.03 WEDNESDAY - 01.05 SUNDAY POSTERS - WITNESSES OF MEŠTROVIĆ’S TIME This exhibit yields the greatest achievements of designers and photographers from the 60s of the last century to the present day through the medium of posters whilst at the same time informing the public about the art of Ivan Meštrović and the events that promoted him. Designers include the likes of John Picelj, Boris Ljubičić, Jean Siminiati, Gorki Žuvela, Viktor Popović and others.QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery, Poljana Marina Držića 1, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

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Culture & Events

01.05 SUNDAY - 30.10 SUNDAY EX YUGOSLAVIA The expression every picture tells a story has its merit. This permanent collection of images presents some of the world's leading photojournalists that covered the breakup of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia and Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, Darko Bandić, Jan Grarup, Claus Larson, Yannis Behrakis and Jon Jones are included. Multimedia video included.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, www. warphotoltd.com. 01.05 SUNDAY - 30.07 SATURDAY THE BALKAN ROUTE BY GIULIO PISCITELLI As current as ever ‘www.warphotoltd.com' release photos from all around the world which mark the trials and tribulations of people. This photo exhibition is dedicated to the refugees and migrants from Syria and its neighbouring countries from their arrival on the Greek Islands of Lesbos and Kos, to their way along the Balkan Route, fleeing the terror of war and hardships in their own countries with the dream of a better and safer life in Europe.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, www.warphotoltd.com.

BOŽIDAR GJUKIĆ - WAR PHOTOGRAPHY 1991-1992 ‘A photo can speak a thousand words’ and a selection of city museums have come together to present eighty thought-provoking, vivid photos depicting Dubrovnik and its surroundings during the Homeland War, in 1991/1992. Twenty years on, the role and importance of war photography testifies to the truth.QD-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr.

DUBROVNIK IN THE HOMELAND WAR 19911995 (DUBROVNIK U DOMOVINSKOM RATU) Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the Fort Imperial building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia, flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who had lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot.QImperial Fort, Srđ, dumus.hr. Open 08:00 22:00. Admission 15-30kn. Ivan Kožarić “Dječak koji sjedi“ - Dubrovnik Art Gallery Archives

22.04 FRIDAY - 22.05 SUNDAY EXPOSING THE BODY / WORKS FROM THE GALLERY’S COLLECTION The exhibition presents works of domestic and foreign artists of the late 19th century to the present day who have dealt with the motif of ‘nudes'. The displayed works comprise of paintings, drawings, graphics, sculpture and photography where curves and contours pave their way to perfection!QL‑5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www.ugdubrovnik.hr.

25.05 WEDNESDAY - 10.07 SUNDAY RETROSPECTIVE EXHIBITION: MILA KUMBATOVIĆ (1915 – 2004) Art historian, Ivanka Reberski is a guru when it comes to the works of Mila Kumbatović and has therefore put together her oeuvre spanning fifty years of diverse creativity. According to the author, Kumbatović’s career was marked by various changes particularly in moving away from direct experiential native landscape to the rocky surface and microstructure of stone on the island of Krk, all the way through to the cosmic galaxy.QL‑5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. 05.06 SUNDAY - 19.06 SUNDAY TANJA DEMAN ‘STORIES OF SPACE’ Deman is in demand, indeed this multimedia artist is set to present various works which delve into researching the collective psychology of space, as well as the physical and emotional connection one may have to a place or with nature. Here, Deman presents video works, photo series’ and collages across various works from 2009 to now, works that evoke the viewer from within.QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery, Poljana Marina Držića 1, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Spring 2016

Culture & Events SPECIAL EVENTS 08.04 FRIDAY - 10.04 SUNDAY AKLAPELA Picture a group of men, lined-up, dressed to a tea, singing without instruments but ranging their voices from baritone to bass, and all in harmony that even the angels from above would applaud. This is klapa music, authentic acapella music from Croatia. This annual three day fest draws the finest male/female klape performers which you simply need to hear, to believe!QD‑2, L‑2, Dominican Church; Lazareti, www.aklapela.hr. 09.06 THURSDAY - 12.06 SUNDAY LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THEATRE Beauty motivates, nature heals, love saves! The splendour of this small festival lies in the exquisiteness of very unique art forms which are nurtured at this cultural event; whether through poetry, acting or dancing, Le Petit Festival du Theatre will never leave you uninspired nor does it disappoint.QL‑2, Lazareti, Frana Supila bb, www. lepetitfestival.com.

SPORT EVENTS

Mila Kumbatović “Mrtva priroda s pjetlićem“ - Dubrovnik Art Gallery Archives

30.04 SATURDAY - 01.05 SUNDAY DU MOTION In only the 2nd year and ‘du motion' expands with four fantastic running events to be held over two days. Turn sporty and choose from the ‘Half marathon', a 21 km long race which starts and ends on Stradun. ‘Run the wall' is a 2 km race which follows the entire length of the ancient walls and includes lots of steps and various depths. The ‘5 km fun run' also starts and ends at Stradun and goes through to the Gruž harbour. Finally, we can't forget our juniors with their ‘Kid's Day' run from the Onofrio Fountain to Luža. All in all, a great atmosphere is truly felt around the place with this perfect combination of sports, culture and beauty. Log onto www.du-motion.com to reserve your entry!QB‑2, Stradun, Placa, www.du-motion.com.

16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

The Linđo Folk Ensemble Archives

THE LINĐO FOLK ENSEMBLE The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you every Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Sloboda Cinema, up until July 10, and Lazareti after August 25, starting at 21:30. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances are as per the festival’s schedule.QD‑3, Sloboda Cinema, Luža bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 23/ (+385-) 091 571 79 63, www.lindjo.hr. Tickets 100kn.

REVELIN FORTRESS Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions. The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum. The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial Development and Foundry presents how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men. Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian danger. Ascend one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to see archived documents, walk through summer residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region. Some of these are mostly inaccessible to the public and are an extremely important part of Dubrovnik’s heritage.QE-1, dumus.hr/ en/. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. Unified ticket. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Restaurant Popret Archives

CROATIAN BISTRO GLORIJET Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you'll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot.QH‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80, glorijet@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). PTA6U GW DUBRAVKA 1836 RESTAURANT & CAFÉ Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Brsalje with Nautika, and has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac, Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue beyond the walls.QA‑2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, fax (+385-20) 31 19 58, sales@nautikarestaurant.com, www.dubravka1836.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (50 - 160kn). PAUGBW KOMIN The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes - try meat or fish “ispod peke”. A good choice in the Babin kuk area.QG‑2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, info@restaurant-komin.com, www.restaurant-komin.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 130kn). PTA6LGBXW

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KOPUN Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every notable region is represented on the menu. As their name suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and me, and they also have local beer on tap.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, info@restaurantkopun.com, www.restaurantkopun. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. From June Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 220kn). PTJAGBXW LADY PI-PI Wine and dine whilst overlooking the grand walls of Dubrovnik and sea. Large platters for fish and meat devotees are jammed with goodies and the food is cooked in front of you on an outdoor terrace with an open fire. The cuisine is freshly prepped and prices are fair. No reservations.QC‑1, Peline bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 54. Open 09:00 - 22:00 and depending on weather conditions, if it rains its closed. (65 - 150kn). JAB MIMOZA In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There's a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available.QJ‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr, www. esculap-teo.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn). PT AEGBXW Spring 2016

Restaurants ORHAN Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it's like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan's terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices.QK‑3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83, info@restaurant-orhan.com, www. restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (50 - 200kn). PTJA6GBXW ZOE Located on the rocky south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled fish pure-and-simple there's a healthy sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs' legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course.QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, info@ importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 150kn). PALGBW

ETHNIC CANTINA MEXICANA CHIHUAHUA This rather pleasant Mexican serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs, wings and steaks. Open all year round it provides Restaurant Domino Steak House Archives

an ideal alternative for anyone looking for a satisfying meal, be they a local looking to shy away from the traditional Mediteranean fare, or a tourist simply craving something a bit different.QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 2b, tel. (+385-20) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46, duchihuahua@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (55 130kn). PVNBSW INCREDIBLE INDIA Authentic Indian cuisine has finally made its way to Dubrovnik! Located on a narrow side street off of Stradun, this restaurant offers a cozy atmosphere between the cool stone walls. The orange coloured walls, decorated with pictures of India, create a traditional Indian feel. They offer dishes from all over the Indian subcontinent and use only the freshest ingredients. Enjoy some chicken tandoori and prawn masala with a side of saffron rice or garlic naan. To drink, try some traditional Indian masala tea or sweet lassi. Reservations are recommended ahead of time as seats fill up quickly.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27 43, incredibleindiadubrovnik@gmail.com, www. incredibleindiadubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (75 - 150kn). PTJABSW TAJ MAHAL You guessed it, the Old Town's only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good grilled meats including čevapčići - shish kebab. Try one of the pite pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma! Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, Hotel Lero.QC‑3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, tajmahaldbk@gmail. com, www.tajmahal-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 01:00. (60 - 180kn). TA6GBSW

INTERNATIONAL AZUR Looking for something a little different from the traditional mediterranean dishes found everywhere? Then Azur is your answer! The outdoor seating is playfully decorated with bright and vibrant colours and goes along with the food, which is just as colourful as the atmosphere. Featuring a unique blend of asian and mediterranean dishes, a mix of curry and chili with basil and rosemary spices, it's known as mediterranean cuisine with an asian twist and will add a delectable bang to your trip!QD‑4, Pobijana 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 06, info@azurvision.com, www.azurvision.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (28 - 148kn). PTJA6GBXW DOMINO STEAK HOUSE A serious convention centre for carnivores, with steaks done in a multitude of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather.QB‑3, Od Domina 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 03, domino@du.t-com.hr, www. steakhousedomino.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 140kn). PTJA6GBCW 18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

BURGER TIGER

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Sigura

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PLOČE GATE o Prijek

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PLAC

RECTOR PALACE

BURGERS CHICKEN BURGER HOT DOG CHICKEN WINGS

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FISH & CHIPS TORTILLA / WRAP FRY & DIP ONION RINGS

Vetranićeva 4, 20000 Dubrovnik | burgertiger1@gmail.com Tel/Fax: +38520 322 063 | www.burger-tiger-dubrovnik.com LA CASTILE This restaurant is part of the Royal Princess Hotel and offers a variety of top-quality local seafood and meat dishes. Each classy and sophisticated dish is made using the freshest ingredients and can be savoured with a local or foreign wine. Enjoy this delicious meal while overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. At this restaurant, you're in for a real treat!QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, info@ importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com. Open 06:30 - 23:00. (120 - 150kn). PAGBXW LUCIN KANTUN “Lucy's Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun, all in sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a rustic open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work. He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there's a nice selection of desserts.QB‑2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03, lucinkantun@mail.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. From May Open 11:00 - 01:00. (38 - 160kn). PTJA 6UGBXW MAGELLAN The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural light that floods through huge windows on all four sides. The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is first-class.QI‑3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 94, magellan.restoran@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 23:30. (80 150kn). PAULEGBXSW facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

MEX CANTINA BONA FIDE Don't let the name fool you, they don't just offer Mexican dishes, but Italian, as well. The outdoor terrace is snuggled into a narrow side street, with colourful pastel tables creating a vibrant contrast to the grey stone walls. They offer tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and nachos, as well as a wide variety of pizzas and pastas. When you can't decide between Mexican and Italian, it's the perfect spot to suit either mood.QB‑2/3, Čubranovićeva 8, tel. (+385-) 095 885 27 92, info@ restaurantsdubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. From May 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PT JA6U G BS W PANTARUL A popular spot for the locals to frequent, you must try this delectable restaurant during your visit. They offer delicious appetizers like spring rolls, quiches or steak tartare. As well, delightful risottos and homemade pasta dishes are just a few of the choices for a main course. As an additional bonus, they're always adding new and fun meals to the menu. Tastefully decorated, the friendly staff and warm environment will leave you with a satisfied experience. The tables fill up quickly, so make sure you reserve a spot ahead of time.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 34 86, pantarul@ pantarul.com, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 24:00. Closed Mon. From May Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 130kn). PT A LG S W Spring 2016

Restaurants PORAT BAR & GRILL Located in the Gruž Harbour, this classy and modern restaurant has a variety of delicious dishes to choose from on their menu. They offer various soups and salads, gourmet burgers, grilled steaks, as well as fresh “Catch of the Day” fish, all artfully presented. It's the perfect spot for an evening out with your friends and family.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, damrag1@gmail. com, www.porat-dubrovnik.com. Open 07:30 – 24:00. (25 - 500kn). PTA6UGBXSW

excellent food. We especially recommend the onion soup, pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever you choose, you can't go wrong.QI‑2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, info@tavernaotto.com, www. tavernaotto.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. From May Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00, Tue 19:00 - 23:00. (80 - 200kn). PT A6GB XW

RESTAURANT 360° If this review were to merely say ‘WOW!' then it would be doing this restaurant a great injustice. 360° is designed for couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful air of serenity even when full. From the main room which is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should be all you need to know about 360°.QE‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 22, info@360dubrovnik.com, www.360dubrovnik.com. Open 18:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (190 - 350kn). PTJA6GBXW

DALMATINO Found within the labyrinth of side streets in the Old City, this restaurant has added a unique twist to traditional Dalmatian cuisine. Try some Drunken scampi and mussels, Truffle Pasta or John Dory fillet from the appetizing menu, in this warm environment of orange and brown hues, resembling rustic Tuscany. Old photos of Dubrovnik line the walls, along with wine bottles that are displayed around the restaurant, for decoration. To satisfy your palate, there is an extensive list of wines to choose from to sip along with your meal. For dessert, don't miss out on trying the Chocolate Fondant, for a small taste of heaven. QC‑3, Miha Pracata 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/(+385-) 098 32 74 04, info@dalmatino-dubrovnik.com, www. dalmatino-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 180kn). PT J A 6 G B X W

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

TAVERNA OTTO This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It's attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and

KONOBA

KONOBA JEZUITE Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church. Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, konobajezuite@gmail.com, www. restaurantjezuitedubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). JA BW KONOBA POPRET For a delicious traditional Mediterranean meal, don't miss out on a visit to Bistro Popret. They serve homemade pršut, cheese, lamb and octopus, as well as delicious rožata or strudel for dessert. This relaxing atmosphere is located in Gornji Brgat, a small village on a hill 5km from Dubrovnik. It's an ideal spot for large gatherings and celebrations, such as a confirmation, first communion or small wedding party.QPut Hrvatskih branitelja 40, Gornji Brgat, tel. (+385-) 095 198 92 63/(+385-) 091 526 77 82, pero.nadramija@gmail.com, www. konobapopret.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (18 - 120kn). PTA6UILEGBXSW PUPO Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of well-prepared seafood dishes and steaks as well as a 'walk on a wok side' as a good choice for a light lunch. Outdoor seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines and tempting homemade cakes make this value for

20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

money - worth visiting.QC‑2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+38520) 32 35 55/(+385-) 099 216 54 54, viktor.kuznin@ gmail.com, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. From May Open 08:00 - 24:00. (65 - 190kn). TJAUGBKXSW ROZARIO On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that's why you'll often find the locals lunching here.QD‑2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65 50, konoba.rozario@gmail.com, www.konoba-rozario.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. From May Open 09:00 - 23:00. (70 168kn). PTJAGBXS

ICECREAM DUBROVNIK If you’re looking for a quick snack while exploring Dubrovnik then Gossip is the perfect spot to stop by. Located on Stradun, they offer tasty salads, sandwiches and hotdogs, as well as various ice cream flavours and frozen yogurt to satisfy your sweet tooth. As well, they even have mojitos-to-go, a refreshing drink to cool you off as you roam the ancient city. Also at Placa 5!QC‑2, Boškovićeva 1. Open 08:00 - 22:00. From June Open 08:00 - 02:00. (10 - 50kn). TJNS

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

LIGHT BITES BUFFET ŠKOLA A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+38520) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (14 - 30kn). PJNGBW

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

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Spring 2016

Restaurants historical influence within the region in centuries past. QC‑3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 08, fandb@ thepucicpalace.com, www.thepucicpalace.com. From April 15 Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (150 - 240kn). TJ A6BXW GUSTA ME This small restaurant sits just above the Ploče Gate and has a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather need not force you indoors. The menu has a strong selection of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan as well as any carnivore. Some of the dishes vary from that which you might see elsewhere and seem a delight for anyone looking for something a little bit different.QE‑1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, gustame.dubrovnik@gmail.com, www.gustamedubrovnik.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PTA6UGBXSW

Restaurant Azur Archives

MEDITERRANEAN AMFORA While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of a distinct Mediterranean feel - very Roman indeed. Prices here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high. You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you're based in or near the Old City then you should not think twice about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19, info@amforadubrovnik.com, www.amforadubrovnik.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. From June Open 11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 23:00. (115 - 250 kn). PA GB X W DEFNE Straight out of the movies this restaurant, which is part of the 5 Star Pucić Palace Hotel, is situated on a first floor terrace and would have to be the first choice pick for any anniversary dinner, or valentine's rendezvous. The menu, while far from cheap, is nevertheless impressive, and features cuisine from Croatia, Italy, Spain, and the Middle East, the latter three, of course, having had some 22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

KLARISA Just few years operating in Dubrovnik you could be forgiven for thinking that they'd always been here. All their food, as you would expect, is sourced locally, and during the summer months you'll be pleased to note that much of the fish is off-menu, because they can never know what the boats will bring in - that's how fresh their fish is. There's a tavern attached, so if you're waiting for a table you can always grab yourself a cool, tall, glass of pivo.QB‑2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, marketing@klarisa. hr, www.klarisa-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 220kn). PTJA6UIEGBXW MEZZANAVE RESTAURANT & BAR If you're looking for a restaurant to eat at while you're outside of the old city walls, Mezzanave is the perfect place to check out. Their shopping mall atmosphere brings a bit of America to this ancient European city. They offer tasty meals at a much lower price than in the Old City. Their menu includes something to suit everyone's taste, from salads and pizza to lasagna and ćevapčići. Best of all, from Monday to Friday, for only 35kn, they offer a daily brunch menu.QI‑2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 61 01 19, info@mezzanave.com, www.mezzanave.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. From June Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 100kn). PTA 6ULGBXSW NAUTIKA The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+38520) 44 25 26, sales@nautikarestaurants.com, www. nautikarestaurant.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (257 398kn). PJAGBXW dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

PANORAMA RESTAURANT & BAR Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right by the top cable car station, has great big windows offering a spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline. The food is excellent. Bring your sunglasses!QK,L‑1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, fax (+385-20) 31 19 58, sales@nautikarestaurants.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (70 - 250kn). PAGBXW RESTAURANT HORIZONT This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour. They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as traditional cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but also Istria, such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef Tenderloin in a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious slice of Chocolate Souffle or Carrot Cake and experience a small taste of paradise in this romantic setting.QE‑1, Put od Bosanke 8, tel. (+385-) 099 697 67 29, sales@restauranthorizont.com, www.restaurant-horizont.com. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. From May Open 12:00 - 22:30. (110 - 150kn). PTALGBXSW

TOVJERNA SESAME An Aladdin's cave of antique treasures, contemporary music and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and pancakes with orange and almonds everything is sublime.QJ/K‑3, Dante Alighieria 2, tel. (+385-20) 41 29 10, misko.sesame@gmail.com, www. sesame.hr. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:00. (90 150kn). PT A6GB X W VAPOR The Bellevue Hotel restaurant is perfectly located near the city centre and commands an amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this vivacious diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy the more refined tongue.QI‑3, Pera Čingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, vapor@alh.hr, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com/en/hotel-bellevuedubrovnik/restaurants-and-bars/vapor-restaurant. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (90 - 250kn). PT A U L E GB X S W

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Spring 2016

Restaurants CAVTAT BUGENVILA A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they use only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal homegrown vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing. An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala Ante Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+38520) 47 99 49, bugenvila.cavtat@gmail.com, www. bugenvila.eu/. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:30 - 22:00. From June Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:30 - 22:45. (70 - 280kn). TA L B

Pupica Archives

BREAKFAST BISTRO DUBRAVA Located right on Stradun, overlooking the St. Blaise Church, this is a great place to grab some early morning breakfast, as they offer various omelettes, as well as jam and toast. They also serve a light lunch and dinner, along with homemade cakes and ice cream for dessert, which you can enjoy as you look out at the ancient city and watch the buzz of people around you. QC‑2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 29. Open 08:00 24:00. (60-150kn). PAGBXW ORLANDO A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D‑2, Placa bb, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo. hr. Open 07:30 - 01:00. (60 - 120kn). JABW PUPICA Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which could suit almost any European town, city, or village. Their slogan states that ‘life without breakfast, is like a day without morning’. So before you get ready to ‘head out’ on your daily adventure, omelettes, toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good!QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, martina@pupodubrovnik. com, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 22:00. PTJA6UGBXW

24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

GALIJA A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you're hard enough! This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront.QVuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66, mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 180kn). PT A 6 U E GB X S W LEUT One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don't mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@ restaurant-leut.com, www.restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn). PA U G B W TORANJ Situated beside a busy seafront square and with outdoor seating on a first-floor terrace, Toranj does a consistently grand job of dishing out the best in Dalmatian cuisine. Grilled fish and shellfish as usual take up most pages in the menu, although there's a solid choice of seafood pasta dishes which - despite being listed as starters - constitute a satisfying main course in their own right. Leave room for the tasty desserts.QObala A. Starčevića 18, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 95 77/(+385-) 099 434 12 03, konobatoranj@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 130kn). PA6UGBXW

KOLOČEP VILLA RUŽA The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable as the Mediterranean Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that local Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped stone, olive and pine trees surroundings, Villa Ruža is a hadubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Restaurant Klarisa Archives

ven. Chock a block selection of wines. Means of transport include regular ferry lines from the Gruž Port or via private transfer.QDonje Čelo bb, Koločep Island, tel. (+385-20) 75 70 30/(+385-) 098 44 33 82, info@villa-ruza.com, www.villa-ruza.com. From May Open 12:00 - 24:00. (140 - 215kn). ABXW

KONAVLE KONAVOSKI DVORI Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists. QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 251 71 58, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBXW KONAVOSKI KOMIN Set in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace has a fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and home made apple strudel.QVelji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 96 07, smilja.siljug@hotmail.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). A6LGBXW

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KORČULA ADIO MARE Whether it's the location next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who's apt to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It's the one with the queue waiting for a table!QUlica Marca Pola 2, Korčula town, tel. (+385-20) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 172 52 52, konobaadiomare@gmail. com, www.konobaadiomare.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (90 - 180kn). PJA6GBXW ZURE If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don't miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience!QLumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+38520) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12, batistic.zure@du.tcom.hr, www.zure.hr. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 180kn). A6UGBXW

LASTOVO TRITON A frequent stop on yachting trips: there's a mooring right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home made Mediterranean herb rakija - it's all the stuff of dreams!QZaklopatica 15, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11 61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, info@triton.hr, www.triton. hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 200kn). N G B X W Spring 2016

Restaurants LOPUD

STON

OBALA There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud's waterfront with a trio of stately palm trees offering shade. The menu covers familiar fish and seafood territory with the addition of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes. Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the house.QObala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 91 70/(+385-) 098 51 27 25, obala@ du.t-com.hr, www.obalalopud.com. Open 10:00 17:00. From May Open 10:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300kn). PA GBX W

VILA KORUNA The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, vila-koruna@du.t-com.hr, www.vila-koruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). PJ A U L G B XW

MLINI

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KONOBA MARINERO If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you'll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a supremely relaxing treat.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@ du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 180kn). A6 L G B W

ZATON ANKORA The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great for a romantic meal at sundown, it's worth the trip to this little village just north of Dubrovnik.QDr. Ante Starčevića 2, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31, ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr, www.restaurant-ankoradubrovnik.com. From May Open 12:00 - 24:00. (70 150kn). AB X W BABILON When surrounded by the Mediterranean, then eat Mediterranean. This casual restaurant offers an array of fish and meat dishes of the local order and prepped accordingly! With a terrace facing the sea in the Zaton Bay and only 12 km from the Old Town, its tip top for lunch and dinner.QBulet 1, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 82, villababilon@net.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (55 - 140kn). PA 6 L G B W ORSAN GVEROVIĆ This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67, restoran@gverovic-orsan. hr, www.gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 200kn). A6 L G B X W

PIZZA BARACUDA Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy!QB/C‑3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65, baracuda.dubrovnik@gmail.com. Open 09:30 - 23:30. (35 - 120kn). PA G B X S W

www.inyourpocket.com 26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Restaurants TABASCO The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer is also some of the cheapest in price.QE‑1, Hvarska 48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95. Open 09:30 - 23:00. From May Open 09:30 - 24:00. (23 - 85kn). PTAVGBXSW

SEAFOOD BARBA Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 091 205 34 88, barba.dubrovnik@gmail. com. Open 11:00 - 19:00. May Open 10:00 - 24:00. From June 15 Open 10:00 - 02:00. (35 - 59kn). PTJA GSW KAMENICE Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It's a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82, m.bore74@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. May Open 08:00 - 23:00. From June Open 08:00 - 24:00. (58 123kn). JAB ORSAN The restaurant of Dubrovnik's yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr, www. restaurant-orsan-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). PTA6GBXW OYSTER & SUSHI BAR BOTA This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it's very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD‑4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, SALES2@BOTA-SARE.HR, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (28 - 135kn). PJAGBXW facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Restaurant Klarisa Archives

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PROTO Nautika's little brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong contender for top dining spot.QC‑2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, marketing@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn). PAGBXW

VEGETARIAN NISHTA Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You'll find a fusion vegetarian cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry, soups, salad bar and much more. The menu also contains vegan and gluten-free dishes for those more in tune with Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, info@nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant. com. Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (77 - 95kn). JABXSW Spring 2016

Local Flavour

Restaurant Adio Mare Archives

LOCAL DISHES Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world. Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience, you might say. This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city's menus can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local. The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients do the work. It's hard to beat a good piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a hinterland garden. In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in summer 2012, it's hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it. So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you'd like to escape the grilled fish - grilled meat - pasta trinity? The best answer is the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at home. 28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Let's start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version of everyone's favourite: spaghetti bolognaise. However, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something special. You'll see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you've the perfect lunch. A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada. There are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bacon and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and lemon. It's cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes, and served with soft gnocci. A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat. To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While you're there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers. Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It's the perfect end to a watery day's safari. To accompany your traditional-style meal you'll want a drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it's easy. The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they're high in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative. For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it's pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish. And to finish off, you'll see rožata on many a menu: it's the local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think there's no better way than to finish your meal than some fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose petals. And speaking of which, here are a couple of recipes (see p.30) you might try to bring back sweet memories of your time in Dubrovnik.

PELJEŠAC WINES Those who do not know much about Croatia can be forgiven for not realising that wine is as much a part of life here as it is Italy, a country which sits on the opposite side of the Adriatic Sea. In fact, wine has been a part of this region since the days of the Ancient Greeks, who had settled parts of Dalmatia in the 5th century BC, including the islands of Hvar, Vis, and Korčula (birth place to Marco Polo). In time, the Roman Empire expanded into Dalmatia - then peopled by the Illyrians - bringing with it more modernised methods of cultivation, and under Roman rule Dalmatian wine saw itself being exported to other parts of the Mediterranean, and beyond. Eventually the Croats would come to live here, and they saw fit to further expand the region's wine production. Croatian wines would be welcome at the Austrian and Hungarian courts, and with many a farmer relying on his own vines to keep him in wine then you could be assured that quality levels were kept quite high. The country's history being what it is it's perhaps not such a surprise to discover that some of the wineries are not so well known, even nationally, but it won't be long before all of that will change. Here, we'll look some of the more tempting local wines. Plavac Mali, or Little Blue, is a variety of red grape closely related to Zinfandel and Primitivo. It is grown almost exclusively on the western side of the island of Hvar and the Pelješac peninsula. The wine it produces tends towards a deep purple-red colour, high in tannins, extract, and alcofacebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Spring 2016

Local Flavour hol. Normally presenting a rich, dry taste, the better vintages will be more mild and sweet. Those who know such things recommend that such reds be enjoyed with red meat dishes, black olives, and salted anchovies. Dingač is a variety of Plavac Mali and is considered by many to be the Holy Grail of local wines, and can only be grown in this region as a result of very specific geographical conditions. Such is its importance to Dalmatia that in 1961 it fell under the protection of the Geneva Convention, the first Croatian wine to do so. It is of a deep ruby red colour, of an exceptionally unique and luxurious bouquet, a nicely accentuated aroma, and a harmonious fullness of taste. Dingač was joined in 1967 by Postup, a top-quality red wine created from the grapes of the Plavac Mali variety, exclusively from the location of Postup, which is on the southern slopes of the Pelješac peninsula. Postup is a darker red, with a full, harmonious taste with a touch of crispness.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

LOCAL RECIPES Orancini Peel an orange, preferably unwaxed, organically grown (you don’t want pesticides on the skin). Cut the peel into strips about 3-5cm long and 0.5cm wide. Pop the peel into a dish and cover with water. Leave to stand for two days. Put the strips and water in a pan, bring to the boil then drain off the water. Add sugar in an amount equal to the weight of the orange strips. Stir in the pan with just a drop of water until the water evaporates. Again, leave to drain, then roll the strips in sugar. Leave to dry. Bruštulane mjendule Sugared almonds to you and me. Weigh out some almonds, pop them in a pan with an equal amount of sugar. For every 50g of almonds add a dessert spoon of water. Warm the pan on a medium heat, constantly stirring until all the sugar melts, then solidifies and sticks to the almonds. Shake onto a plate and leave to cool before attacking. Kotonjata From Dubrovnik in the south, it’s a strongly flavoured dessert that looks like a jelly. No friends, it’s not a jelly at all but is instead the wiggly product of a sweet and bitter fruit called dunja. Wise old grandmas often place a number of these yellow guys all around the house to ward off the raunchier stenches that can build up from time to time. Mantala A purple - coloured cake served with sweet black syrup, almonds and cinnamon. 30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Now, while it's true that Dalmatians prefer red wine to white (the opposite would be the case in Croatia overall), there are more than a few high quality whites available. Rukatac, however, is the gleaming jewel in Dalmatia's crown. An endangered grape to be sure, it is indigenous to the peninsula. It can be found from Prevlaka to the Croatian coast, and again on the islands of Korčula and Lastovo. Wines made from rukatac are ideal for dessert wines, known as prošek. It is often greenish to golden colour with an extremely pleasant bouquet. Like most other whites, this is best while it is still young to drink during the first or possibly second year. There are other producers on the peninsula of course, and it would be remiss to neglect names such as Korta Katarina, Skaramuča, Madirazza, Matuško, to list but a few. The area's wineries are generally inclined towards a wholly welcoming atmosphere, with Udruga pelješki vinski puti (Association of Pelješac Wine Trails) and Plavac mali being just two associations which put considerable effort into ensuring grape quality and the promotion of the peninsula's wine growers and wine trails. Detailing any one of the many wine trails would take too much time and too many print inches. Needless to say that any tourist may put their fate in the hands of a seasoned local or tour guide and take advice from them - or put the effort in and plan your own tour of this Croatian exclave. More than a few tour operators will bring buses and boats onto the peninsula from Split and Trogir, and if you're time is flexible enough then it's well worth taking the day to get as many wineries and vineyards in as possible. Make sure you find yourself near Ston, because you'll want to sample the oysters as well as the wine. WINE TRAILS & GASTRO TOURISM Wine trails, or roads, are an important economic tool for any region such as the Pelješac peninsula. When you're not only removed from the centre of the continent but from your own country too, you must do all in your power to ensure that your tourism sector is doing its best to attract - and keep - as many visitors as possible. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour Wine trails are not a new concept as well worn roads emerged over centuries of use as producers moved their wine to market. The more worn the road the more popular - it's reasonable to assume - the wines which are produced within its vineyards. Alongside these wine trails a healthy gastro-tourism sector is developing; after all, you do need to eat if you're going to be drinking several glasses of wine over the course of a day. With Dalmatia offering a variety of local and Mediterranean, you're never likely to try the same dish twice even if you're dining out each night of a holiday.

THE FOODIE’S GUIDE 25.04 MONDAY - 01.05 SUNDAY DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE Martin Luther once said, ‘Beer is made by men, wine by God’. The message here is clear and the message in Dubrovnik is truly clear. In order to get that fulfilling local experience, tourists must try at least some local wine. 14th century anecdotes vindicate the making of wine here and this event brings wine from the cellar to the table. It’s an all-round experience with over 100 regional winemakers presenting their vino to experts; workshops are about ‘wine in tourism’ with topics from cork and packaging to making it on the market. Art exhibits, excursions to vineyards, local restaurants offering local wines with matching dishes. What can you say, a divine wine experience waits!QL‑2, Lazareti, www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com.

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30.04 SATURDAY - 01.05 SUNDAY OPEN DAYS OF PELJEŠAC WINE CELLARS The Pelješac peninsula is known for its wine and this spring is the perfect time to visit some of the amazing wine cellars that are particularly owned and have been run by families for centuries now. An entire programme is set which includes round tables, workshops, chartered transport and more. A connoisseur’s paradise! QPelješac. 21.05 SATURDAY A CULTURAL AND GASTRONOMIC FAIR FROM KLAPE SINGERS TO WINE DRINKERS The area of Trpanj and the Pelješac peninsula get into full swing for the tourist season from May 21st and on. For eight years, this date is the official opening of local hotels, camps and other tourist attractions in the area. Dalmatian accapella ensembles called ‘klape’ sing their harmonious songs along with local wine, food and cultural customs on show; the sewing of fishing nets, wine tours, cooking fish stew on the beach and much more.QPut od Vila 1, Trpanj, Pelješac. 09.06 THURSDAY - 15.09 THURSDAY FLAVOURS OF PELJEŠAC If food and wine is right up your alley, then come on down to the Trpanj waterfront for a culinary delight! Every Thursday from June 9, rich local cuisine that is typically Mediterranean will be presented and tip top Pelješac wines will help wash the down the food. This serene fishing town is a tiny oasis and the Dalmatian music in the background makes for enchanting evenings.QMimbelli square, Orebić.

Spring 2016

Coffee & Cakes

Bistro Tavulin Archives

COFFEE BIKER'S CAFE Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to sort you out with a place to stay.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 39, tel. (+385-) 098 68 07 11. Open 07:00 - 01:00. PNBXW CAVE BAR MORE (ŠPILJA BAR MORE) This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination!QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, cavebardubrovnik@gmail.com, www.cavebar-more.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. From June Open 10:00 - 24:00. AW CELTIC BAR BELFAST ‘The Belfast' is a café situated near Kralj Tomislav, and while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcoming and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or a small Žuja during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is festooned with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the fittings and fixtures are far from clichéd bric-a-brac usually associated with such places.QG‑2, Marka Marulića 21, celticbarbelfast@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PT6NGBXW 32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

FASHION CAFÉ In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 7. Open 06:00 - 23:00. From June Open 06:00 - 02:00. P6N GBXW FESTIVAL This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn't be better.QD‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo.sanje@ du.t-com.hr. Open 07:30 - 02:00. PTA6GB XW GALERIE One of a plethora of little cafes stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its youthful clientele. QC‑2, Kunićeva 5. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PA6GBXW GLAM CAFÉ If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In the evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good start with one of their range of cocktails or craft beers. QC‑2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00. From June Open 08:30 - 02:00. PJ6NG BXW dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes LIBERTINA (LUĆI) Cosy, snug, intimate - all words to describe some place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik's best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don't be surprised if you find you're sitting in someone's seat though. A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 20:00 - 24:00. 6GBXW SOUL CAFFE This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night out on the town. For some fresh air, there's additional seating outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.QC‑3, Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07, anajcer@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PTJA6EGBXW

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

CAKES

Photo by Višnja Arambašić Photo by Višnja Arambašić

DOLCE VITA This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun. QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66/ (+385-) 098 944 99 51, dolcevita.dubrovnik@gmail. com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. PNB PUPICA Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisserrie (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia. This should be a definite on any list of places to visit, and you’ll likely find yourself making any excuse just to stop by and sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your fancy.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, martina@pupodubrovnik.com, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. PTJA6UGBXW YOGOMANIA This colourful and bright Frozen Yogurt Shop offers delicious frozen yogurt with numerous toppings to add, such as cookie or chocolate chunks, rainbow sprinkles, fruit pieces and many more. You can create the yogurt cup of your dreams! They also serve scrumptious crepes and savory smoothies to satisfy your sweet tooth.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 3, marija. papak@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00. May - June Open 09:00 - 24:00. PJNGBW facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Spring 2016

Nightlife ART CAFFEE Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you'll discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from oldfashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies all in one small but perfect package.QK‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, tel. (+385-) 095 866 04 11. Open 09:00 - 02:00. GBXW BUŽA What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There's no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.QD‑4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen's tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 08:00 - 03:00 or according to weather conditions. B CULTO Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto! What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd.QI‑4, Iva Vojnovića 39a. Open 08:00 - 04:00. PA6XW CULTURE CLUB REVELIN Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views.QE‑1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31, cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin.com. April, May Open Fri, Sat 23:00 06:00. June Open 23:00 - 06:00. PAW D’VINO In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in halfsozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation.QC‑2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, sasha@dvino.net, www.dvino. net. Open 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBW GAFFE PUB For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub. The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy a sporting event on one of the large screen TVs with some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 52, bosko.bosnjak@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. May Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6GBXW 34 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

LA BODEGA DUBROVNIK Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, right next to the St. Blaise church, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street, Stradun, by day.QD‑3, Lučarica 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 95 55, pero.tokic@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PA6BXW LAZARETI These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. For info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb, info@lazareti.com, www.lazareti.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. NONE NINA A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector's Palace - you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09, info@nonenina.com, www. nonenina.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PAEBW RAZONODA WINE BAR This wine and Croatian tapas bar is part of the Pucić Palace Hotel and has a refined and gentlemen’s club feel. They offer the finest Croatian wines, from the Pelješac region in southern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavonia in the northeast. As a snack, munch on some pršut, cheese or marinated anchovies. There’s also plenty of unique drink options for all non-wine lovers to try.QC‑3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 04, winebar@thepucicpalace.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAGW ROCK CAFFE EXIT Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff. Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 2. Jul Sep Open 18:00 - 02:00. PENXW TROUBADOUR HARD JAZZ CAFE It's hard to beat a warm evening spent here toe-tapping to mellow jazz (live acts too), with your super-size view onto the Cathedral. A near-perfect experience, so we'll forgive the significantly above-average prices.QC‑3, Bunićeva poljana 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 76. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. ENB

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Sightseeing

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

ESSENTIAL DUBROVNIK DOMINICAN MONASTERY (DOMINIKANSKI SAMOSTAN) The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (14561469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30 and 19:00.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30kn. LOKRUM ISLAND You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is 36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www. lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information. A return ticket costs 80kn per person, for kids until the age of 15, 20kn. STRADUN, PLACA When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2. THE CHURCH OF ST BLAISE (CRKVA SV. VLAHA) Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment. QD‑3, Luža 3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sunday 07:00 - 13:00. No admission. THE CITY WALLS, BASTIONS AND PILE & PLOČE GATES (GRADSKE ZIDINE, TVRĐAVE, GRADSKA VRATA PILE, VRATA OD PLOČA) Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached - the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Croatian Conservation Institute Archives

ST.BLAISE, ST. MARY MAGDALENE WITH TOBIAS, ARCHANGEL RAPHAEL AND THE DONOR Tiziano Vecellio, born near Belluno in the 15th century, was the leader of the Venetian School of Italian Renaissance in the 16th century. He was one of the most versatile painters, equally adept in portraits and landscapes, as well as mythological and religious subjects. Vecellio was also the most important and most influential artist in the late Renaissance to the Baroque transition period. This great master of the brush has a special tie to the city of Dubrovnik and in particular with the Church of St. Dominic. Authentic historical accounts go back to 1595 whereby Dominican Serafino Razzi mentions ‘a work by the famous Tizian’ on the altar of Mary Magdalene, thus describing the lavishly equipped interior of the former church of the preaching order. Together with the sainted penitent, to whom the Dominicans were particularly devoted too, the city’s patron St. Blaise and Archangel Raphael with Tobias by the side of the kneeling donator is also shown on the altarpiece. According to a tradition that has not been confirmed by documents to date, the altar belonged to the noble Pucić family. With the altarpiece, they joined the ambitious artistic order of the Dubrovnik nobility in the 16th century. Over time and with an increased interest in Tizian’s ‘Magdalene’, the need for restorative works was highly regarded. After a period of preparatory research and numerous consultations, conservation and restoration works began in 2001 at the Croatian Conservation Institute in Zagreb; nearly a century and a half after the very last completed restoration which was carried out in Venice. Upon the completion of the restoration, valuable cloth has returned to Dubrovnik where it stands today, and can be seen in the Dominican monastery.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, Dominican Monastery. Spring 2016

Sightseeing its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, info@citywallsdubrovnik.hr, www.citywallsdubrovnik. hr. Open 08:00-18:30. June Open 08:00-19:30. Admission 30 - 120kn. THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE FRIARS MINOR AND THE OLD PHARMACY (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I STARA APOTEKA MALE BRAĆE) The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.QB‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, mala.braca@du.t-com.hr, www.malabraca.wix.com/ malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 15 - 30kn.

THE RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEV DVOR) One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Unified ticket costing 100kn for adults, 80kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

CHURCHES

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

38 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

CHURCH AND CONVENT OF SIGURATA & MUSEUM OF SIGURATA CONVENT (SAMOSTAN I MUZEJ SIGURATA) To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like someone's garden off an intimate side street. There was probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains household objects they used in order to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas time.QB‑2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. Open on request and by prior arrangement. Admission 10 - 15kn. ST IGNATIUS’ CHURCH (CRKVA SV. IGNACIJA) Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dudubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

brovnik Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city. By the end of September Mass in English is held on Sundays at 11:00.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00. Open 07:00 - 20:00. THE CATHEDRAL (KATEDRALA) The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint's head and foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00.QD‑3/4, Držićeva poljana, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96. Open 09:00 -16:00, Sun 11:30 - 16:00. Treasury admission 15 - 20kn. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

MUSEUMS DUBROVNIK NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ DUBROVNIK) The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.QC‑4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, ana. cucevic@gmail.com, www.pmd.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Unified ticket. ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM RUPE (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ RUPE) “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated. QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, etnografski@ dumus.hr, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Unified ticket. Spring 2016

Sightseeing MARITIME MUSEUM (POMORSKI MUZEJ) Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, pomorski@dumus.hr, www.dumus. hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket. THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIN DRŽIĆ (DOM MARINA DRŽIĆA) This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB‑3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, ured@muzejmarindrzic.eu, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

THE SYNAGOGUE AND JEWISH MUSEUM (SINAGOGA I ŽIDOVSKI MUZEJ) The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.QD‑2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 35kn.

GALLERIES DUBROVNIK ART GALLERY (UMJETNIČKA GALERIJA DUBROVNIK) This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century. QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, info@ ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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Sightseeing

OTOK GALLERY, ARL (GALERIJA OTOK, ARL) A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret - the former quarantine houses - which now houses an artists' community, including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of an excellent standard.QL‑5, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 46 33, arl@du.t-com.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free. THE DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA GALLERY/RONALD BROWN MEMORIAL HOUSE (GALERIJA DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA/MEMORIJALNA KUĆA RONALD BROWN) This fine house next to the Rector's Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make up the gallery's title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika's swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it's a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn't get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD‑3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 72, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, www. ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket.

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THE SPONZA PALACE (PALAČA SPONZA) For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik's buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando's column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic's mint and customs house - all the Republic's trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city's artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD‑3, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 32, dad@dad. hr, www.dad.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 25kn. WAR PHOTO LIMITED A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes disturbing - images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www. warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 30 - 40kn. Spring 2016

Sightseeing LANDMARKS BONINOVO CLIFFS It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as ‘popular' here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other. The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of reflection and sombre beauty. It's best appreciated either at the height of the tourist influx (since they're all in the Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down along the coastline.

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agen-

cies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53 93, blagajna@ excelsa-realestate.com, www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Adults 108kn, Children under 12 50kn, Children under 4 free. GUNDULIĆ SQUARE (GUNDULIĆEVA POLJANA) This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić's poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town's fruit market in the mornings.QC/D‑3. ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAINS – GREAT AND SMALL (VELIKA I MALA ONOFRIJEVA FONTANA) One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers. The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today's Croatia. Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio's small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.QB‑2, D‑3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. ORLANDO’S COLUMN (ORLANDOV STUP) In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you'll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city's enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political 'heart' of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando's right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.QD‑2, Pred Dvorom. ORSULA PARK There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th century St Orsula's Church. There is an amphitheatre here that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the sea. It is a 25

42 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing

minute walk from the Old Town or a short ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also gained a new summer stage for concerts of various domestic and international musical performers, who will play here throughout the summer.QMagistralni put 2, www.parkorsula. du-hr.net. THE AQUARIUM (AKVARIJ) Housed in the magnificent St John's fortress (Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it. Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less than impressed. QE‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 60kn. THE CITY BELLTOWER (GRADSKI ZVONIK, LUŽA ZVONARA) Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you'll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn't up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - 'the green ones' - or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower - an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower's clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom. THE CITY HALL AND MARIN DRŽIĆ THEATRE (VIJEĆNICA I KAZALIŠTE MARINA DRŽIĆA) South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it's a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise's Church. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it's a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra's musicians gathered there on a warm evening.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1. Open 9:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00. THE CITY HARBOUR (GRADSKA LUKA) Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city's golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.QD/E‑2/3. THE LAZARET (LAZARETI) Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik's lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists' workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb. Spring 2016

Dubrovnik Surroundings

Orebić Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Boris Kačan

NORTH OF DUBROVNIK The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continental areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno' which is home to the oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498. The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those associated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when in the area, make sure you don't miss out on the infamous Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the peninsula.

TRSTENO If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here. Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the cen44 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

turies, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates - don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct. East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy. The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature. The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings PELJEŠAC PENINSULA

THE WALLS OF STON

The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country. Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr. The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.

In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few manmade sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside. The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas. Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall although we didn’t bother investigating any further.

On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping. The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough. OREBIĆ TOURIST BOARD QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, info@visitorebic-croatia.hr, www.visitorebiccroatia.com. Open 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. May Open 08:00 - 18:00. Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. STON TOURIST BOARD QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@ du.t-com.hr, www.ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. June - September Open 08:00 19:00.

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THE WALLS OF STON QGundulićeva poljana 2, tel. +385 (0)20 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, info@citywallsdubrovnik.hr, www. citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:30. June - July Open 08:00 - 19:30. September Open 08:00 - 16:00. Tickets 20 - 40kn.

NERETVA If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva. It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California. As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here. Spring 2016

Dubrovnik Surroundings The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August 13 ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge! More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game. Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future. METKOVIĆ TOURIST BOARD QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, info@tzmetkovic.hr, www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Photo by Boris Jović

AGRITOURISM AGROTURIZAM LAPTALO Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromača you’ll find this family smallholding. Throughout the year, if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy homemade dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample the family’s liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the local sweet specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata (quince) and mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spices). QGromača 56, Zaton, tel. (+385-20) 88 11 86/(+385-) 099 218 36 12, 098 72 51 02, zlaptalo2710@net.hr, www.laptalo-agro.hr. Open by prior arrangement. PILNKW KONOBA VINICA - MONKOVIĆ FAMILY Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat. If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run the place may show you their collection of folk costumes as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home made rakija would go down a treat too…QPridvorje, Ljuta, tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/(+385-) 099 215 24 59, monkovic@konobavinica.com, www.konobavinica. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PA6LBW 46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

SOUTH OF DUBROVNIK South of Dubrovnik and following the coastal road you will find yourself in Župa Dubrovačka, where there are a handful of bays that have a promenade which passes through small romantic places such as Srebreno and Mlini. If you continue further south, you will find yourself in a vortex of history. The small town of Cavtat will enchant you with its architecture, nature and charm. Historically known as Epidaurum, it used to be a key part of Dubrovnik's history and development of the city, which the citizens of Cavtat built respectively. From Cavtat to the border with Montenegro stretches the Konavle municipality which was named after the Latin word 'canalis', referring to water channels that used to bring water from water-wells across Konavle Fields to the ancient city of Epidaurum (present-day Cavtat).

ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings

can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question. These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better. We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches. Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket. Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA TOURIST BOARD QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 62 54, tz-zupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.hr, www. dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 07:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. May, June Open 07:30 - 14:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

KONAVLE The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce real estate agents to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom. The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the Spring 2016

Dubrovnik Surroundings

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ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal. The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove. Mills on the river Ljuta The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik. The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills were built on a canal network, while some of them were driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.

CAVTAT The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all - this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated 48 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a handful of rather lovely small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally allinclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep. A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house ( Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. May - October Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn), where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings

ISLANDS The Elaphite archipelago consists of 13 islands and islets, of which only three are inhabited. Robinson Crusoe will get a run for his money here as the nature and culture on the islands are next to perfection; the peace and tranquillity, invaluable. The island sitting high north of the Dubrovnik/Neretva County is Korčula which is filled with its rich culture, historical remains and natural surroundings. The town of Korčula is also known as 'Little Dubrovnik' because of the walls that surround it. The island of Lastovo is the second most forested island in the Adriatic earning it the title of a Nature Park. With a National Park on the western front to a reserve of natural assets on the eastern front, the island of Mljet is full of flora and fauna, fascinating history and wild adventure offers. The islands in general have a completely different atmosphere from mainland towns making their way of life all the more special.

THE ELAFITI ISLANDS KOLOČEP, LOPUD AND ŠIPAN

Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants. Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

MLJET Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands. This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be. Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunPhoto by Višnja Arambašić

TOURIST BOARD OF KONAVLE QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, marketing@ tzcavtat-konavle.hr, visit.cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. May Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. June Open 08:00 20:00.

These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing! Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Dubrovnik Surroundings ning quality waiting for you to discover. Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

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GETTING THERE AND AROUND Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and main port of call in the north, however, you can also access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena which has daily

connections to Dubrovnik (watch out for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake. WHAT TO SEE Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, np-mljet@npmljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr. Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic. Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high - built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road to Pomena slips right between its high walls. Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village, built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living among charming thick forests and working in agriculture, fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the hotel’s amenities. Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian). Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation. Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a number of private rentals here, too. Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill on the island. Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph

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Konavle Tourist Board Archives

seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour. Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing getaway. Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco. Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older church and features Gothic architectural elements. In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches. A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,” that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that are used to capture rainwater. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

MLJET TOURIST BOARD Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier.QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. MLJET TOURIST BOARD, POLAČE OFFICE QPolače bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 41 86, tzmljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 13:00.

SOKOL TOWER Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Konavle, www.citywallsdubrovnik. hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. June Open 10:00 - 19:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings KORČULA K orčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel. Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this - the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll. Many of the historical sights and landmarks are just a stone throw from the main square and you’ll be bedazzled by the amount of history and culture that surrounds you. Take for instance the Tower of Marco Polo, believed to be the house in which the great world traveller and writer was born, whilst there head up to the tower for some breathtaking panoramic views of the island. There is also a Marco Polo Museum which reflects on his life through seven vast and deep scenes which bring to life his amazing adventures. The Abbey Treasury of St. Mark is in the heart of the main-square and features reliquaries, artworks, liturgical vestments and manuscripts with some dating as far back as the 12th century. The Icon Gallery features artworks of Byzantine paintings on wood and most of which were brought across by island sailors from the 13th to 17th century. Ahoy to the naval ancestors! The Revelin Tower with its descending steps is a majestic site in itself whilst the Maximilian Vanka Gallery hosts his astute paintings and portraits for which he is most known for. And that’s just a snapshot of Korčula with more to do and see. All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries. One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness during the summer months (Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance. With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season. But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village of Lumbar52 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Dubrovnik Surroundings da where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else. Other destinations for wine connoisseurs are the villages of Čara and Smokvica, these two island gems also add to the agricultural pallet as they are known for the top quality white wine known as Pošip, considered to be one of the most prestigious wines of the Croatian south. KORČULA CITY MUSEUM QTrg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, info@gm-korcula. com, www.gm-korcula.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 8 - 20kn per person. KORČULA TOURIST BOARD QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, info@ visitkorcula.eu, www.visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

LASTOVO Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours. Maybe that's why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it's an untouched ecological paradise. Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town's streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life. Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one's chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo's heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island's deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island's folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers. With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here. Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you're ready and facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair. LASTOVO TOURIST BOARD QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, info@tz-lastovo.hr, www.tz-lastovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Open 08:00 15:00. Closed Sat & Sun. June Open 08:00 -14:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

EVENTS 30.04 SATURDAY TRIATHLON – THE MARCO POLO CHALLENGE 2016 Swimming, cycling and running are part of any triathlon, but when it happens to be on the island of Korčula with its pine forests, pristine beaches and natural flora and fauna, it gives the word ‘triathlon’ a whole new meaning. All are welcomed from professionals to amateurs, pre and post events leading to the day will be held as well as the humanitarian aspect as well. Fitness, mingling and jingling, it will make Marco Polo himself quite proud!QKorčula, www.tksplit.hr/2016/ korcula/00_korc_onatjecanju.php. 13.05 FRIDAY - 15.05 SUNDAY CIKLO TOUR BIKE RACE Fans of the two-wheeler who have a lot of energy and adventure are invited to this cycling event. Three days of inspiring views and sweat grinding roads, tarmacs, olive groves and rocky paths make for the perfect get out and about to see this amazing island. The first two days entail Vela Luka, Blato, and Smokvica whereas the last day is a visit to Korčula and Lumbarda.QKorčula. 23.05 MONDAY - 29.05 SUNDAY VIGANJ SLALOM OPEN 2016 – WINDSURFING COMPETITION Viganj is set between Pelješac and Korčula where the sea channel provides enough wind and waves that has made this a meeting point for wind and kite surfers alike. May is competition month and for all those who take this sport seriously, feel free to partake or attend in what will be a melting pot for many of Europe’s top windsurfers. QViganj, Pelješac. 02.06 THURSDAY - 29.09 THURSDAY MOREŠKA SWORD DANCE A touch of chivalry returns annually to the island of Korčula with its most famous attraction, the traditional 16th century sword battle dance (Moreška) which depicts the battle between the Moors and Christians. The Moreška was common across Mediterranean countries long ago and Korčula still proudly holds on to this 400 year old dance that is both mesmerising and seeks the skilful handling of swords.QKorčula. Spring 2016

Leisure

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Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and generally pottering around. The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean landscapes. Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud. Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat. With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse riding in the Konavle, there's no shortage of variety.

ADVENTURE ADVENTURE DALMATIA Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle. More information on 091 566 59 42 and 091 526 38 13.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 526 38 13, dubrovnik@adventuredalmatia.com, www. adventuredalmatia.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. DUBROVNIK ADVENTURES Excursions from one day to more of the gorgeous Konavle region! Travel on foot, hire a bike or hmmm gallop a donkey, you choose. Tours include visits to local wine and olive 54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

oil producers as well as opting to sight-see the Dubrovnik Walls and kayaking to the island of Lokrum.Qtel. (+385-) 099 667 77 00, info@dubrovnikadventures.com, www. dubrovnikadventures.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A KOJAN KORAL Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, which even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, and instructions are provided. They also offer ATV Quad Safaris across the differing terrain of the Konavle mainland. Intended for groups of 7 - 14 people, priced 550 - 650kn per person.QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

BIG GAME FISHING BIG GAME FISHING Qtel. (+385-) 091 419 14 50/(+385-) 091 419 14 54, www. biggamedubrovnik.com. Open by prior arrangement.

BOAT EXCURSIONS DUBROVNIK BOAT EXCURSIONS Visiting 3 islands is the ideal way to escape the hustle and bustle of Dubrovnik and in getting to know the charm of the Elaphite islands all in one day. With the boat departing at 10am and returning at 6pm, guests will visit the islands of Lopud, Šipan and Koločep; enjoying the natural beauty of the islands, swimming in one of the most beautiful beaches and dining to homemade food with (meat, fish and vegetarian on the menu), not to mention some fine local wine tasting. The tour is ideal for families, larger groups, and for individuals who are happy to meet new people and customs. The fleet consists of 4 old timer boats that are fully equipped (umbrellas, chairs, music, toilets and more), and very friendly and attentive staff who will ensure that your day passes in the best posdubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Leisure sible fashion. The price of 250kuna per person includes transportation from your hotel or place of stay to the ship docking area and back.QVrh sela 9, Veliki Zaton, tel. (+385-) 098 178 71 77, zatontravel@gmail.com, www. dubrovnikboatexcursions.com. Open by prior arrangement. DUBROVNIK BOATS Seeking a trip or tour, but do not wish to be held up by other tourists or deadlines. Would you like to go on a trip tailored to your needs and wishes? Look no further, for private or specifically prepared adventures or trips that meet your every standard and expectation, with choice of fullfeatured transport (boat, sailing boat, catamaran, speed boat or yacht), simply contact Nikša and his team. They organise transport, crew, offer personal recommendations on what to visit, where to eat, relax and most importantly how better to experience and learn about Dubrovnik and its surroundings. Your entire experience is professionally looked after by the staff at Dubrovnik Boats', all you need is to book, sit back and enjoy.QBartola Kašića 13, tel. (+385-) 098 75 78 90, info@dubrovnikboats.com, www. dubrovnikboats.com. Open by prior arrangement.

CYCLING TEUTA QTrumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 97 86/ (+385-) 091 882 57 97, info@cavtat.biz, www.cavtat.biz. Open 09:00 - 21:00. 25kn/hour, 100kn/day. A

SCUBA DIVING ABYSS - DIVING & WATER-SPORT CENTRE QG‑2, Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel. (+385-) 099 256 12 56/(+385-) 098 24 43 49, diving.hr@gmail.com, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Open 09:00 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. A BLUE PLANET QF‑3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, info@blueplanet-diving.com, www.blueplanet-diving.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement. DIVING CLUB DUBROVNIK On Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour.QG/H‑1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, rk@dudiver.hr, www.du-diver.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

TENNIS DUBROVNIK TENNIS CLUB QH‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, teniskiklubdubrovnik@gmail.com. Open 07:00 23:00. 80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you'll pay 100kn/hr. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Spring 2016

Shopping

Heritage Gallery Archives

ACCESSORIES CROATA Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Croata's shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage.QD‑3, Pred dvorom 2, (+385-20) 64 10 66, www. croata.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

ANTIQUES ANTIQUES TEZORO Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC‑2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, info@moje-tezoro.hr, www.moje-tezoro.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

ART GALLERIES ARTUR A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during whole year so if you are interested you know what to do...QB‑3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, arturgallery@ hotmail.com, www.arturgallery.com. Open 10:00 16:00. May - June Open 10:00 - 18:00. A

HERITAGE GALLERY A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times right through to the present.For lovers of antiques and vintage items, there is a collection of antique oil lamps and small household items. QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-) 098 20 91 50, info@ heritagegallery.eu, www.heritagegallery.eu. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A HOMA GALLERY A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration. QC‑2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834 05 73. Open 10:00 - 16:00. June Open 10:00 - 20:00. N KLARISA GALLERY Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44, jelenapacesentovic@yahoo.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00. A

www.inyourpocket.com 56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping ROMANA ATELIER Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, info@romana-milutin.com, www.romanamilutin.com. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. June Open 10:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00. A TALIR Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93, karmen.cetinic@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. June Open 09:00 - 22:00. A WORKSHOP BE CRAFT This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed. QL‑2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

DELICATESSEN DUBROVAČKA KUĆA A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.QD‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 92, lucija.oresic@du.t-com.hr. April - May Open 09:00 20:00. June Open 09:00 - 23:00. A FRANJA COFFEE & TEAHOUSE A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain.QC‑3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 16, dubrovniksanja@gmail. com, www.franja.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. May Open 09:00 - 22:00. June Open 09:00 - 24:00. A GLIGORA WINE & CHEESE SHOP Situated in the city's harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The various delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. The Gligora family has won numerous awards, including the World Cheese Award, for it's Dinarski sir, mixed cheese made from cow and sheep's milk. Other well-known cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made from goat's milk and Paški sir, cheese from sheep's milk.QI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, info@gligora.com, www.gligora. com. Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. AGB KRAŠ The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC‑2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00 20:00. May Open 08:00 - 21:00. June Open 08:00 - 22:00. A facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

OLEOTEKA UJE Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles!QC‑2, Placa 18, Stradun, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 65, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, May Open 09:00 - 23:00, June Open 09:00 00:00. A ŠKAR WINERY Ahoy, Mateys! This unique wine and souvenir shop is located in an old shipyard in the city's stunning harbour. The small family-run business started selling it's homemade Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white wine are produced. The Krile family also makes liqueurs with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting experience is not to be missed!QH‑2, Lapadska obala 17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05, sales@lekri.eu, www.lekri.eu. From May Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00. VINOTEKA MILIČIĆ Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves.QC‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77, dolores.racic@ yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. June Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

DESIGNER CLOTHING CROATIAN DESIGNERS ROOM Is fashion your fetish and forte? Then look no further, this is the ‘be all end all' of Croatian mainstream fashion with great choices of clothes made by the most famous Croatian designers, all found in the one place.QC‑3, Od puča 11, croatiandesignersdubrovnik@yahoo.com. April - May, Open 10:00 - 20:00. June Open 10:00 21:00. A MODNI KANTUN A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it's a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41, modnikantun@ gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

JEWELLERY CLARA STONES Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless. The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and

Spring 2016

Shopping DUTY FREE SHOP One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won't have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle.

Talir Gallery Arhives

the different phases of its lifecycle.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, info@clarastones.com, www. clarastones.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JA DUBROVNIK TREASURES Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of high-quality jewellery for a great price. Along with authentic and traditional Croatian jewellery, they also have many pieces made with a unique or modern design. Each piece of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.QB‑2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, dubrovniktreasures@ gmail.com, www.dubrovniktreasures.com. Open 09:00 21:00. A KRIŽEK This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, d4@zlatarna-krizek.hr, www.krizek.hr. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Mon, Wed, Fri Open 10:00 - 17:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

SOUVENIRS BABOON Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts.QI‑2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/(+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. W BAČAN HANDMADE PRODUCTS Here you can go all out ‘folk' with national costumes, blouses and table cloths all decorated with Konavle embroidery on sale.QD‑2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 21, lena.janjalija@ dubrovnikportal.com. Open 09:30 - 15:30, 17:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. JN 58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

IVO BIOČINA - DECORATIVE SCULPTORS WORKSHOP A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional combination of stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs. Truly original!QD‑2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091 536 40 56. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JN MEDUSA Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including olive oils, brandies, and sponges from the spongefishing island of Krapanj.QB/C‑2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/(+385-) 098 175 17 41, info@medusa.hr, www. medusa.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A MUSEUM SHOP The Rector's Palace is where guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs. QD‑3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector's Palace), tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00. AW PALMA Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn.QC‑3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel. (+385-) 091 553 96 08, (+385-) 091 514 20 18. Open 09:00 - 16:00. TILDA Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more.QD‑2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54, tildadubrovnik@gmail.com, www.tildadubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00.Closed Sun. May Open 09:00 - 20:00. June Open 09:00 - 20:00. A WAXING LYRICAL Looking for a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast in your life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a type of historic wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik) which doubles as a fully functioning candle? All joking aside, these models are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić, who researches and creates models of historic Croatian boats. His wax Karaka won a prize for being among the best original souvenirs of the Dubrovnik region. If you're eager to have it, go to the nearest tourist board or simplly call.Qtel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, info@vostanibrod.com, www. vostanibrod.com. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Hotels SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

5 STARS HILTON IMPERIAL DUBROVNIK QK‑3, Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, fax (+385-20) 32 02 20, sales.dubrovnik@hilton. com, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. 147 rooms (147 doubles) From €250 per room/per night. PTJHA6UFLGBKDCW hh hhh IMPORTANNE HOTELS & RESORT QKardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, fax (+385-20) 44 04 40, reservations@importanneresort. com, www.importanneresort.com. 290 rooms (201 doubles €76 - 189, 80 suites €180 - 500, 8 Junior Suite €160 - 330, 1 Presidential Suite €600 - 1300). PZHAUFLGB KD CW hhhhh KAZBEK QH‑2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 29 99, fax (+385-20) 36 29 09, info@kazbek.hr, www. kazbekdubrovnik.com. 13 rooms (12 doubles €139 - 445, 1 suite €226 - 404). PZHA6LGKDCW hhhhh RIXOS LIBERTAS DUBROVNIK QG‑4, Liechtensteinov put 3, tel. (+385-20) 20 00 00, fax (+385-20) 20 00 20, libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos.com. 254 rooms (237 singles €105 - 255, 237 doubles €140 300, 16 suites €400 - 800, 1 Presidential Suite €500 2000). PZTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhhh THE PUCIĆ PALACE QC‑3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 62 22, fax (+38520) 32 62 23, reception@thepucicpalace.com, www. thepucicpalace.com. 19 rooms (1 single €230 - 300, 16 doubles €355 - 560, 1 suite €780 - 970, 1 Junior Suite €560 - 690). PZTJAR6GBKW hh hhh facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Spring 2016

Hotels VALAMAR DUBROVNIK PRESIDENT QF‑1, Iva Dulčića 142, tel. (+385-20) 44 11 00, fax (+38520) 43 56 00, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar. com. 292 rooms (286 doubles €130 - 285, 5 suites, 1 Presidential Suite €). PHAUFGBKDCW hhhhh

4 STARS HOTEL KORČULA DE LA VILLE QObala Franje Tuđmana 4, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 10 78, fax (+385-20) 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula.hr, www.korcula-hotels.com. Open June - December 31. 20 rooms (13 doubles €80 - 150, 7 triples €80 - 150). PA6BKW hhhh INDIJAN QŠkvar 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 45 55, fax (+385-20) 71 45 67, indijan@hotelindijan.hr, www.hotelindijan.hr. Open April 19 - October 20. 19 rooms (3 singles €79 109, 14 doubles €119 - 209, 2 apartments €159 - 249). PAFLGBKDCW hhhh LAPAD QH‑2, Lapadska obala 37, tel. (+385-20) 45 55 55, fax (+385-20) 45 55 51, sales@hotel-lapad.hr, www.hotellapad.hr. 163 rooms (4 singles €77 - 153, 153 doubles €110 - 234, 4 suites €190 - 333, 2 Junior Suites €158 304). PHAULGBKCW hhhh UVALA QG‑3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 80, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 51 rooms (45 doubles €76 108, 6 triples €61 - 86) Prices are per person per night. PHAIFLGBKDCW hhhh

HOSTELS DUBROVNIK YOUTH HOSTEL QI‑3, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 1517), tel. (+385-20) 42 32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92, dubrovnik@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. 81 dorm beds, 130 - 235kn per person. ARGBKW FRESH* SHEETS KATHEDRAL DUBROVNIK QC/D‑3, Bunićeva Poljana 6, tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, stay@freshsheetskathedral.com, www. freshsheetskathedral.com. 6 rooms (4 doubles €98 - 198, 1 triple €198 - 248, 1 suite €198 - 348). PAGW VILA MICIKA QG/H‑2, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 32, fax (+385-20) 43 71 62, info@vilamicika.hr, www. vilamicika.hr. 8 rooms (8 doubles €36 - 52, 1 Extra Bed €18 - 26). PA6LW 60 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

VALAMAR ARGOSY QF‑1, Iva Dulčića 140, tel. (+385-20) 44 61 00, fax (+385-20) 43 55 78, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 308 rooms (308 doubles €90 - 195). PHAUFE GB K DCW hhhh VALAMAR LACROMA DUBROVNIK QF‑2, Iva Dulčića 34, tel. (+385-20) 44 91 00, fax (+385-20) 44 96 00, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 401 rooms (385 doubles €95 - 200, 2 suites, 13 Junior Suite €, 1 Presidential Suite €). PHAUF GKD CW hhhh

3 STARS AQUARIUS QG/H‑2, Mata Vodopića 4a, tel. (+385-20) 45 61 11, fax (+385-20) 45 61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius.net, www. hotel-aquarius.net. 24 rooms (8 singles €85 - 124, 8 doubles €120 - 176, 4 triples €168 - 245, 4 suites €140 208). PAUL G BKW hhh BERKELEY QJ‑2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20) 49 41 60, fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@berkeleyhotel. hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. 24 rooms (22 doubles €80 180, 2 apartments €110 - 235). PA L GC W hhh KOMODOR QG‑3, Masarykov put 5, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 00, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_komodor@hotelimaestral. com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 63 rooms (8 singles €40 - 98, 51 doubles €30 - 84, 4 triples €24 - 67) Prices are per person per night. PHA LEB K CW hhh TIRENA HOTEL QF‑2, Iva Dulčića 36, tel. (+385-20) 44 51 00, fax (+385-20) 44 56 02, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 208 rooms (208 doubles €65 - 155). PH ARGBKCW hhh VALAMAR CLUB DUBROVNIK QF‑2, Iva Dulčića 38, tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, fax (+385-20) 44 76 03, reservations@valamar.com, www. valamar.com. 338 rooms (338 doubles €80 - 175). PTA 6UGBK C W hhh VIS QG‑3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 55, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_vis@hotelimaestral. com, www.hotelimaestral.com. 142 rooms (9 singles €40 - 98, 127 doubles €30 - 82, 6 triples €24 - 66). PA LEGBKW hhh

www.inyourpocket.com dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Directory BANKS & EXCHANGES ERSTE&STEIERMARKISCHE BANK QI‑2, Vukovarska 26, tel. (+385-) 072 37 46 85/(+385) 0800 78 90 free info, www.erstebank.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. HYPO-ALPE-ADRIA BANK QI‑2, Vukovarska 15, tel. (+385-) 072 10 11 02, www. hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 12:00. Closed Sun. OTP BANKA Also at Placa 16 - Stradun, tel. 072 20 13 16.QI‑2, Vukovarska 19, tel. (+385-) 072 20 12 83, www.otpbanka. hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. PRIVREDNA BANKA QI‑2, Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 72 00 70, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. RAIFFEISEN BANK QI‑2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 32 05 00, www. rba.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. SBERBANK QI‑2, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 35 89 00, www. sberbank.hr. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. ZAGREBAČKA BANKA Also at Gundulićeva Poljana bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 25 50, Open 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.QI‑2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 45, tel. (+385-20) 32 25 00, www.zaba.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

DRY CLEANERS & LAUNDRIES AMO WASH & DRY QI‑3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33 33 47/(+385-) 099 501 63 02. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. ELEGANT Dry cleaners.QI‑1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385) 098 42 86 71/(+385-) 099 760 01 53. Open 08:00 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N SANJA & ROSIE'S LAUNDRETTE Retro self-service laundromat. Group drop-off service available only upon request.QE‑1, Put od Bosanke 2 (outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, info@ dubrovniklaundry.com, www.dubrovniklaundry. com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Washing - 50kn per load (up to 9kg), Drying - 10 kn per 10 minutes (up to 9kg), 25kn per 30 minutes. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Photo by Marša Gajinov

PETS BOBANOVIĆ Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24 39 38.QH‑2, Kneza Domagoja 4, Lapad, tel. (+385-20) 35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.t-com.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A FAUNA Veterinary clinic. For emergency call 098 191 26 94.QI‑2, Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.a-fauna@du.t-com. hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

PHARMACIES Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy . GRUŽ QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 90. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A KOD MALE BRAĆE QB‑2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 11. Open 07:00 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A KOD ZVONIKA QC‑2, Placa 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33. Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A LAPAD QG/H‑2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67 78. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

POST If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they're right value for what you are sending and where.Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. CENTRAL POST OFFICE QI‑2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+385-20) 36 20 68. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Spring 2016

Maps & Index A. Barca H-2/3 A. Bošković J-2/3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2

62 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Brsalje Brsečinska Bunićeva poljana Buža Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F. Kolumbića F. Prešerna F. Supila Ferićeva Flore Jakšić

A-2 I-2 C-3 D-1 K-2 B-2 C-4 C-3 B-2 I-2 G-2 A-1 H-2 J-3 C-3 H-1 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-2/3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-1 H-2 H-2 I-2 L-2 B-3 G-2

G. Rajčevića Garište Getaldićeva Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta

I-2/3 B-2 B-2 H/I-3 I/J/K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2, I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G/H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3

Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G/H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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Maps & Index Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina Lučarica Luka Dubrovnik Luke Sorkočevića Ljubuška M. Blažića M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca M. Hamzića M. Jarnovića M. Mrnarevića M. Vodopića Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marina Držića Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put

H/I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2 D-3 H-1 G-2 H-1 K-3 K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2 I-2 G-2 I-2 G/H-2 G-3 G-3 D-3 H-2 C-3 F/G-3

Metohijska Miha Pracata Minčeta Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono N. Ljubičića N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Nalješkovićeva Napice Neumska Nikole Božidarevića Nikole Gučetića Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obala S. Radića Obodska Obuljenska

I-1 C-2 B/C-1 H/I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 B/C-3 C-3 H/I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2

Od Batale Od borova Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

H-2 H-2 J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1/2, J-2 I/J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C/B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3

Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani P. Čingrije P. Krešimira IV P. Preradovića Padre Perice Palmotićeva Paska Baburice Pećarica Peline Pelješka Pera Bakića Petilovrijenci Petra Svačića Pile Pionirska Placa Placa – Stradun Platska Ploče Plovani skalini Pobijana Pobreška Poljana Mrtvo zvono

K-3 G-2 K-2 I-3 L-2 H-2 I-1 C-2 H-2 C-3 C-1 K-2 J-2 C-2 G-2 J/K-3 H-1 C/D-2 C-2 J-3 L-2 C-1 D-4 H-1 B-4

SPA at the B

Dubrovnik Sailing

64 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Maps & Index Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Pomoraca H-1 Pomorski muzej E-4 Porat E-3 Porporela E-3/4 Posat E-2 Postranjska I-2 Pred Dvorom D-3 Prelazna B-3 Pridvorska J-2 Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Primorska G-2 Privežna J-2 Puljizeva B-3 Put od Bosanke L-2 Restićeva D-4 Revelin E-1 Riječka G-1 Ribarnica D-2 Roka Mišetića H-3 S.S. Kranjčevića I-2 Savska G-3 Sinjska I-2 Slanska G-2

Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sunčana Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Đurđa Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Križa Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije

I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2 K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2, K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3

Sv.Dominika D-2 Sv. Josipa B-3 Sv.Nikole H-1 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Šibenska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Šipčine I-2 Široka C-2 Tivatska J-2 Tmušasta C-3 Topolska I-2 Trg oružja E-2 Trnovička I-2 Trpanjska G-1 Trstenska G-2 U pilama K-3 Udarnička I-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Uz Giman H-2 Uz Glavicu H-2 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 Uz mline K-2 Uz posat B-1 Uz tabor K-2

Vladimira Nazora J-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2 Velebitska G-2 Velika Petka G-3 Vetranićeva C-2 Vicina K-2 Viška I-2 Vlaha Paljetka H-1 Vukovarska I-2 Za kapelicom K-2 Za Kamenom E-4 Za Rokom B-3 Za rupama B-3 Zadarska G-2 Zagrebačka J/K-2 Zamanjina C-2 Zatonska G-2 Zlatarićeva B-2 Zlatarska D-2 Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2/3 Zvijezdićeva B-3/4 Željezničarska H-1 Žudioska D-2 Žuljanska I-2 Župska L-2

Barkley

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