Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No 8 by In Your Pocket City Guides

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

DUBROVNIK

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

Summer 2011

Ruđer Bošković

One of the world’s greatest scientists

N°8 - complimentary copy www.inyourpocket.com

The pearl of the Adriatic

Glorious island getaways to rural ecotourism

ForeWord

Contents

The pearl of the Adriatic is set to shine this summer for Dubrovnik really is a rarity in terms of architecture and history. Indeed your first glimpse of the town, especially when descending along the airport road can easily turn out to be a heart-stopping, love-at-first-sight experience. These striking ancient walls that you see in front of you have guarded the city’s Renaissance churches, fortresses, palaces, stone alleyways and ports for centuries. And as you meander through the Old Town, and possibly twinkle your fingers by gasping, ‘all I need is my Prince Charming to arrive on his horse,’ you come to the realisation that this is not a dream but reality. Indeed with the tourist numbers growing exponentially so are the cultural and gastronomic offers that wait. One of the latest attractions is the Dubrovnik Cable Car which takes you 778m to the top of Srđ Hill. The ride offers breathtaking views of the Old Town, stunning coastal sights and magnificent sunsets. Perfect for panoramic snaps to add to the memoirs! For that hi-tech touch, the new Multimedia Museum offers projections which take visitors through an inventive view of Dubrovnik’s past and present via 5D technology and futuristic holographic screenings. This year is also the 300th anniversary since the birth of Ruđer Bošković, a great scientist, philosopher, astronomer, diplomat, poet and theologian of his time. He is one of the city’s greatest sons and his hometown is organising a grand exhibition in celebrating the occasion. Amongst all the things to do and see including the fever pitch days with tourists and temperatures soaring until the sun fades and evening arrives. Take the time to stroll and embrace your stay, get in with the lingo as ‘dobar dan’ and ‘dobro večer’ become a part of you for at least a short time.

Cover story The tranquil shades of the blue sea set amongst this rocky island presents a touch of serenity. The island is called Glavat and is part of a group of islands called Vrhovnjaci, situated between the islands of Mljet and Lastovo.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Zagreb, Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1846-0852 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja Cover: Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Introducing Dubrovnik

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Contents

What’s it all about?

Glossary

Don’t get caught with your trousers down

Culture & Events

Go crazy!

Where to stay

Home sweet home In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Tilburg, with Amsterdam to follow very soon), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich) and in Belarus (Minsk). This year will also see the first non-European Pockets rolled out in South Africa and Mozambique. We also continue to roll out iPhone apps to all our cities. We will be launching even more In Your Pocket guides as apps throughout this year: to find out which cities we will be covering, and to keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Jonathan Kawaguchi, Frank Jelinčić, Renata Kontrec, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan Bousfield Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač Researcher Anita Piplović Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan, Maja Vidović Photos Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team, Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board, Mljet Tourist Board, Marko Lokas, Marin Šperanda, Eugen Miljan Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević zagreb@inyourpocket.com Account Manager Mirna Cindrić

Restaurants

For the gourmet that lies within

Cafés

Croatia’s premier oyster-producing area is at Ston, not far from Dubrovnik. So don’t miss the chance to slurp these delicacies fresh from the crystal Adriatic!

Mail & Phones

Sipping Mediterranean style

Nightlife Because you‘re just so groovy

What to see

Those sights explained

Sport

Diving and horseback riding

Shopping

Take a little piece of my heart

Business Directory

Banks and stuff

Lifestyle Directory

Important numbers

Dubrovnik Neretva County

Out and about around the city

Maps & Index

Editor’s note

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Getting around An explorer’s bible

Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2011. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

“I just call to say I luuuurve you...”

With concerts, festivals and performances galore, summer in Dubrovnik is a feast for the senses. Photo by Orlando Club

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County map Street index City map City centre map Index Country map

66 67 68 70 72 73

Summer 2011

arrIvInG In dubrovnIk Tourist information Tourist Information Centres Gruž I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 32, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@ tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Lapad G-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 3, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, ured.lapad@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Pile C-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured. pile@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Tourist Boards Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board I-3,

Vukovarska 24, tel. (+385-20) 32 49 99, info@ visitdubrovnik.hr, www.visitdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Dubrovnik Tourist Board D-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 38 87, info@tzdubrovnik.hr, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Arriving in Dubrovnik By boat There are two harbours in Dubrovnik - the centuries

old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. Many grumble it’s not the most attractive place in the world, but there are plenty of amenities for weary travellers. Hotel Petka right behind the quayside has great food, good accommodation and you can take a bath or shower there. There’s a fruit market, a large Konzum supermarket, and loads of small shops and travel agencies etc. The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop on an orange bus number 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 10kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 12kn if you buy it on board. Tickets must be cancelled in the machine next to the driver immediately on boarding. By bus The city has a new coach station close to the Gruž harbour. Sparkling clean, it’s a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. Ticket office: open 05:30 - 22:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž habour, where there are ATMs and exchange bureaux. Toilets: inside the terminal, cost 3kn. Left luggage: the garderoba works 04:30 - 22:30, 5kn per hour, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Public phones are on the platform. Shops and cafes: there is a news kiosk, plus a large Konzum supermarket next door (open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00). Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station, take line 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. Tickets cost 12kn from the driver or 10kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 0800 09 70.

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By car For the time being, there is no motorway to Dubrovnik.

Considering how narrow non-motorway roads are, you’re safest sticking with the motorway as far as Split. Do be aware that during weekends approaching August, all roads become catastrophically busy, especially at borders, motorway toll booths and tunnels. Avoid weekends! To approach Dubrovnik, you can either travel: Via Split: From Split, follow signs for Dubrovnik leading you inland. (Avoid the coast road passing through Omiš, a terrible bottleneck). Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter “BiH” from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy! Check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr for traffic information. By plane Čilipi Airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices and ATMs, a post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall. Parking costs 40kn for the first 24 hours, and 2kn per hour thereafter. The pay machine for the car park is in the arrivals hall and accepts credit cards. Getting to town: Scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (35kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (20kn), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn. Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle, Flight info tel. 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr. By train Although Dubrovnik was once served by a scenic narrow-gauge railway, avid train-spotters will be dismayed to learn that the track was pulled up long ago. Those who are determined to travel by rail can still catch a train to either Split (services from Zagreb), or Ploče (services from Zagreb, Sarajevo and Mostar) before continuing their journey by bus.

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Dubrovnik Neretva County: 122.870 Dubrovnik (April 2001): 30.436 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named some of its most pure! Dubrovnik Neretva County: Dubrovnik Neretva County measures 1.783km2, of which roughly half is sea. Islands: An amazing 1.246 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Dubrovnik it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

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IntroduCInG dubrovnIk

Glossary National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 2012 April 9 2012 May 1 June 7 2012 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

Customs All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of strong alcohol and 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture at C. Zuzorić 6 (C-3, Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tel. 020 32 31 91). For further details www.carina.hr or call 01 610 23 25 / 01 610 24 61. It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are proud of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little more effort, however, to understand how deeply this pride runs, and how many, how varied and how rich and justified are the reasons for this pride. And, thank goodness, it manifests itself in a way that is very easy to love: the people of Dubrovnik are known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s not an empty or boastful pride. Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called, was an island, offering some protection from attack, but, of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful citizens their shelter. That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades, Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom. But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy, the nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this became a city-state which flourished for four centuries, maintaining independence from feared invaders such as the Turks, and, indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them. The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many other areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the Republic of Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the Adriatic that

it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the region. And during the heyday of the city’s development, art and culture flourished, leading to a love for harmony in one’s surroundings, a love of music, and a love of literature which much shaped the language of Croatian that we can hear today. This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town, this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, this year held for the 62nd time. It can also be heard – this is a city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland. Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags to the sides of buses. It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting his armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the sense of individuality and collective pride is still so strong. It results, happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and well-preserved culture that’s a joy to uncover.

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Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Health & Safety

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

100

-10 -20

M A M

Toilets

Public toilets are few and far between - a far better option is to take the excuse to pop into a cafe for a drink and avail yourself of their facilites. There is a public toilet in the street Iza grada, just behind the city walls near the Pile gates. They’re Turkish style (squatty) but clean - and free.

Roads

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless. The Police (policija) are generally helpful in times of crisis; keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of identity documents, so keep some identification on you at all times.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Take a hike! In Dubrovnik, the first walk you have to take is around the city walls, but that’s for babies, only two kilometres. After that, a favourite walk is around the Lapad peninsula, or to the top of one of its highest points, Velika or Mala Petka. Very much more demanding is a walk up Mount Srđ (412m) – a two hour climb, but with the prospect of the city laid out at your feet as your reward. Konavle has some good walking routes taking in villages, peaks, remains and coastal vistas: pop into the tourist office in Cavtat for a map.

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Tipping Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

Summer 2011

Culture & Events

Culture & Events 24.06 Friday - 24.09 Saturday

Exhibitions

How it Looks in the Treasure Box is How it Looks on You

Ex Yugoslavia 1991-1999 C-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd.com. The expression “every picture tells a story” has its merit. This permanent collection of images presents some of the world’s leading photojournalists that covered the breakup of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia and Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, Darko Bandic, Jan Grarup, Claus Larson, Yannis Behrakis and Jon Jones are included. Multimedia video included.

22.04 Friday - 31.08 Wednesday

B-3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13. See fashion of a yester year as the Ethnographic Museum presents the traditional costumes of the Dubrovnik region and Elafiti Islands. See the various clothes, shoes and hats that used to beautify a person’s appearance. It includes textile clothing with local weaving patterns, shoes, bags and jewellery as linked to the town’s ethnographic heritage.

01.07 Friday - 15.10 Saturday 01.05 - 31.07 Aseel (Umm Al Fahm, Muslim), Eighteen: Photo exhibition by Natan Dvir

Somewhere over Grozny: photos by Eric Bouvet

18.05 Wednesday - 30.11 Wednesday

C-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd.com. Eric Bouvet, a photographer from Paris, has seen much of the world but in a sorry and destitute state. He has covered conflicts from Afghanistan to Israel and Northern Ireland to Burundi. Awarded for his war correspondents work, he presents a first-hand account of the massive destruction that was brought upon the Chechen capital Grozny by Russian forces in the 90’s.

C-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. There is something fishy about this, fishy as in ‘tuna’. The Natural Science Museum presents its most valuable item from its aquatic collection, the head and tail of a tuna (thunnus thynnus), which was caught in 1897 and weighed 275kg. Light and sound effects and results of workshops held in the making of 3D models and electronically generated tuna replicas will be incorporated.

01.05 Sunday - 31.07 Sunday

Eighteen: Photo exhibition by Natan Dvir C-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd.com. ‘If I, a Jewish Israeli man, have been accepted and was allowed into my subject’s personal lives, so can others’. These are the words of Natan Dvir, a photographer seeking to tell a hidden story from his native Israel. Dir focuses on his country’s Arab society, a forgotten minority in a county known for its religion. He presents their every day surroundings, personal testimonies and life images.

How Big was the Tuna Fish in our Museum?

18.05 Wednesday - 18.09 Sunday

Ruđer Bošković again in his native Dubrovnik - Croatia celebrates the 300th anniversary of the birth of its polymath

From the Dubrovnik Art Gallery Collection Croatian art from the end of the 19th until the beginning of the 21st century L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23, tel. (+38520) 42 65 90, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Knowing that there are 2400 paintings, sculptures, prints, drawings, installations and videos to be seen, this truly is an art frenzy. See this rich collection of Croatian modern and fine art with a focus on Dubrovnik artists including the two greats Vlaho Bukovac and Mate Celestin Medović. Contemporary artists from the 1970s and 1980s will be presented as well as conceptual art and the role of new media. In addition, images from the war in Dubrovnik by Damir Fabijanić and the last shots of the tragically killed Dubrovnik photographer during the Homeland War, Pavo Urban can be seen. All in all, the collection retells the history of this grand city and its people.

D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97. Dubrovnik’s greatest son is being honoured with local institutes and archives presenting his triumphant works. It is hard to believe that this physicist, astronomer, mathematician, poet, diplomat and above all Jesuit brother, came up with some of science’s most important theories including his work on atomic theory. His life works will be presented and the grand opening takes place on his birthday, May 18.

Special events 24.06 Friday - 02.07 Saturday

Le Petit Festival du Theatre

10.07 - 25.08 Dubrovnik Summer Festival (Archives)

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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D-3, Lazareti, www.lepetitfestival.com. This exclusive annual art and cultural fair is a melting pot for art, music, dance and theatre lovers, with artists showcased so far from Croatia, Holland, Turkey, Germany, Serbia, Slovenia, France, USA, Finland, Japan and Sweden. All of this year’s performances, exhibitions, shows and concerts are dedicated to the theme “European Women’s Rights Today”. This is one of the ways to raise awareness of women’s needs and rights in today’s world.

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Summer 2011

Culture & events

The Linđo Folk Ensemble

10.07 Sunday - 25.08 Thursday

L-2, Lazareti, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 23/(+385-) 091 571 79 63, www.lindjo.hr. One of Croatia’s finest exports, the Linđo folk ensemble is ready to dance its socks off for you ever y Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season. H i g h - s p i r i t e d e n e r ge t i c performances with amazing costumes and haunting song will echo through Lazareti, star tin g a t 21:30. Th e complete schedule can be seen at www.lindjo.hr. Q Tickets 90kn.

www.dubrovnik-festival.hr. One of the oldest European festivals with over 80 national and international music, theatre and dance performances shown over 7 sizzling summer weeks. In its 62nd edition, this event has all the grandeur with renaissance venues such as the Minčeta Fortress and the Rector’s Palace that bestow a captivating ambience. 2000 artists will show you how the Old City turns into a stage.

29.06 Wednesday - 02.07 Saturday

The Dubrovnik International Opera Festival D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1, www.dubrovnikopera-festival.com. Love opera? Then look no further as this festival is a melting pot for opera singers, ensembles and symphony orchestras worldwide. Artists from Austria, Russia, Poland, Colombia, and Mexico will perform amongst others. The event enriches the city’s cultural offer and is dedicated to the legendary world renowned Dubrovnik opera singer, Tino Pattiera.

01.07 Friday - 31.08 Wednesday

Re-Akcija Festival L-5, Branitelja Dubrovnika 41, klub_umo@yahoo.com. Two months of urban and alternative programmes through music, film, literature and other artistic forms. This year’s edition will see concerts by dub, noise, electro, metal, blues, funk, jazz, pop and hip hop music artists. Add to that some serious clubbing, DJs, retrospectives of amateur film festivals, exhibitions, theatre shows, performances and other cultural events. There is literally something for everyone!

Dubrovnik Summer Festival

13.08 Saturday

The Neretva Boat (lađa) Marathon Be amongst the 50,000 viewers that attend this spectacle which promotes the protection of the lađa Neretva boat, an authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a means of transport. Each year, an amateur rowing competition is held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva River. Both towns are amassed with people and there are parades, concerts, and plenty of cheer.

27.08 Saturday - 10.09 Saturday

Epidaurus Festival Cavtat, Čilipi, Pridvorje, info@epidaurusfestival.com, www.epidaurusfestival.com. The festival motto, ‘Living with Arts’, attracts multitudes of classical and jazz musicians, it holds theatre shows and art exhibits in attractive open air venues. The ‘Young Talents’ series offers upcoming artists the spotlight so they can express their flair and abilities. Other features include Opera in Konavle, and evenings that are a tribute to Tino Pattiera, a great opera singer from this region.

27.08 Saturday - 08.09 Wednesday

Julian Rachlin and Friends Festival D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pr ed dvor om 1, inf o@ rachlinandfriends.com, www.rachlinandfriends.com. Julian Rachlin is back and continues to carry on the fine tradition of chamber music in the 11th edition of this festival. The legendary violinist and viola player is joined by many other famous musicians as they perform at the exquisite atrium of the Rector’s Palace. Q Concerts start at 21:00. Tickets 50 -750kn available at www.culturall.com.

24.06 - 24.09 How it Looks in the Treasure Box is How it Looks on You

14.09 Wednesday - 18.09 Sunday

Kinookus - The Gastronomic Film Festival Ston, kinookus@gmail.com, www.kinookus.com.hr. The art of cinema offers a food frenzy as this international film festival preserves and promotes issues relating to healthy food, traditional recipes, food customs, tools, biodiversity, ecology, nutrition and more. As chefs can serve up mouth watering dishes, this festival serves up a smorgasbord of food and motion picture.

16.09 Friday - 20.09 Tuesday

Dubrovnik International Festival of Early Music D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1. Backtrack through a musical journey as each year audiences witness various performances of unique musical compositions which were made from the Middle Ages through to the Renaissance and Classical periods. Some of the best world ensembles and soloists replicate the atmosphere of medieval European courts, telling stories about times past.

10.07 - 25.08 Dubrovnik Summer Festival (Archives)

Candlelight Concerts What could be a more pleasurable treat than a candle-lit classical concert in the atmospheric sorroundings of the old churches? June, September Mondays: Sorkočević Quartet. St Saviour’s Church at 21:00 Wednesdays: Dubrovnik String Quartet. St Saviour’s Church at 21:00 Fridays: The best of the great composers, programme performed by soloists Slobodan Begić, violin and Nena Čorak, piano. St Saviour’s Church at 21:00 July, August Wednesdays: Dubrovnik String Quar tet. Rosario’s Church at 21:00 Fridays: The best of the great composers, programme performed by soloists Slobodan Begić, violin and Nena Čorak, piano. Rosario’s Church at 21:00

Club Nights 25.06 Saturday

DJanes Ute & Denise Lazareti Club, Frana Supila 8, info@lazareti.com, www.lazareti.com. 16.07 Saturday

27.08 - 10.09 Epidaurus Festival (Archives)

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DJ Joe Allegro Lazareti Club, Frana Supila 8, info@ lazareti.com, www.lazareti.com.

06.08 Saturday

DJ Tomcraft Lazareti Club, Frana Supila 8, info@ 27.08 - 10.09 Epidaurus Festival (Archives)

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lazareti.com, www.lazareti.com.

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Ex Yugoslavia, photo by Ron Haviv, The historic Croatian city of Dubrovnik burns after a Serb artillery barrage

Summer 2011

Culture & events

Galleries Dubrovnik Art Gallery (Umjetnička galerija Dubrovnik) L-5, Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65

90, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, umjetnicka.galerija.dubrovnik@ du.t-com.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30kn. Otok Gallery, ARL (Galerija Otok, ARL) L-5, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 46 33, arl@du.t-com.hr. A gallery in the Dubrovnik lazaret - the former quarantine houses - which now houses an artists’ community, including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of an excellent standard. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Admission free.

The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown) D-3,

Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 72, info@ ugdubrovnik.hr, umjetnicka.galerija.dubrovnik@du.tcom.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candycoloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn.

18.05 - 30.11, How Big was the Tuna Fish in our Museum?

Dubrovnik Symphonics This professional orchestra travels extensively but when it comes to summer time there’s no place like home, and that is why visitors will have the opportunity to see them perform live. Their repertoire includes Dubrovnik classics from the 18th century, especially composers Luka Sorkočević and Ivan Mana Jarnović. They often perform at the Rector’s Palace so keep an eye out.

The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) D-3, Svetog Dominika 1. For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house - all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was built 15161522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 199192 (Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 25kn. War Photo Limited C-2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd. com. A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes disturbing - images. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 30kn.

Homeland War Dubrovnik in the Homeland War 1991-1995

Ex Yugoslavia, photo by Jan Grarup/Noor, Refugees receive news from Kosovo

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Imperial Fort, Srđ. Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the ‘Fort Imperial’ building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia, flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.

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Josip Ruđer Bošković

Art Deco in Croatia

Josip Ruđer Bošković was undoubtedly one of the greatest minds of the 18th century. He was born in Dubrovnik and this year marks the 300th anniversary of his birth. Bošković was an astronomer, surveyor, hydrographer, mathematician, philosopher, diplomat, archaeologist, architect and poet. His most significant work was in the fields of mathematics, geometry, astronomy, geodesy, optics and physics. He was exceptionally prolific, publishing a great body of work that laid the foundations for modern science during his career, which spanned 50 years and was mainly spent in Milan, Paris and Rome. He was a member of the Scientiarum et Artium Institutum atque Academia in Bologna (1746), a corresponding member of the Paris Academy of Sciences (1748), a honorary member of the Tsar’s Academy of Sciences in St Petersburg (1760) and a member of the Royal Society in London (1761). Bošković left his native Dubrovnik at an early age after completing his elementary education at a Jesuit school, and he went to Rom e, a gai n to study with the Jesuits. He took the vow and entered the order as a priest until the order was suppressed in 1773. Despite the fact that he was a priest, he was a follower of Copernicus’ system, but was also the one to propose the repair of the cupola of St Peter’s in Rome. He returned to Dubrovnik only once in his lifetime, for a holiday in 1747, although he kept in regular contact with his sister Anica and his brother Božo. He wrote regularly to them, and undertook diplomatic duties on behalf of the city of Dubrovnik. He was highly sociable and articulate, but also sickly, somewhat solemn and a little depressive, with a tendency to be headstrong, which sometimes caused him problems. He died in Milan at the age of 76, struck down by disease. He is buried there. Today, a crater on the Moon is named after Bošković, as is the Ruđer Bošković multidisciplinary research institute in Zagreb, the Astronomical Society in Belgrade, the Parish Grammar School in Dubrovnik and a great many other schools, institutions, streets and squares. His image appeared on all banknotes issues in the transition period from Yugoslav to Croatian currency between 1991 and 1993, when the currency was known as the Croatian Dinar. To mark the 300th anniversary of his birth, the year 2011 has been proclaimed the Year of Ruđer Bošković in Croatia. There will be many events and symposiums held in his honour both in Croatia and abroad.

The exhibition “Art Deco in Croatia in the Interwar Period” at the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb has been so well received both at home and abroad that it has been extended until 28 August 2011. This gives tourists visiting Zagreb over the summer the chance to see one of the most popular exhibitions here in recent years, while students and art lovers can still arrange their trip to Zagreb to visit the exhibition. By the end of May 2011 more than 45,000 people had visited the exhibition. You can see over 750 art works including paintings, graphi cs, sculpture an d applied arts featuring fashion and furniture design and Art Deco, Vladimir more. It has been written Mirosavljević, Osvajači about by France’s Le Figaro oceana and received extensive radio coverage in the Spanish-speaking world as evidence that the “roaring twenties” was alive and kicking in Croatia too. You can watch informative presen tati ons on th e Art Deco period on Wednesdays; while on Thursdays there is live music in the spirit of 20s cabaret, and the museum is open until 22:00. On Saturdays and Sundays t h e re a re wo r ks h ops for children. Ever yone will enjoy the chance to buy replicas and other souvenirs, a catalogue, a DVD or an audio guide. Art Deco, Armchair D o n’ t m i s s t h i s l a s t chance to see a dazzling exhibition and to learn more about Zagreb’s art scene between the two world wars! Info at (+385-01) 4882 111, (+385-01) 4882 125, www.muo.hr

Cinemas Sloboda D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 25.

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Art Deco, Jelena Babić, Bowl, 1924

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Where to stay Cream of the crop Bellevue J-4, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 00 00,

fax (+385-20) 43 08 35, reservations@alh.hr, www. alh.hr. Renovated with more than 81 rooms that provide spectacular balcony views of the Adriatic and a minimalist interior equipped with all the necessities. Indulge in local art works, à la carte restaurant Vapor, a private cinema, spa centre, indoor pool, a private beach and more. Only minutes from the town centre. Q91 rooms (77 doubles €232 - 800, 13 suites €495 - 1200, 1 Presidential Suite €2900 - 3200). PTHAUFLGBKDChhhhh Dubrovnik Palace F-3, Masarykov put 20, tel. (+38520) 43 00 00, fax (+385-20) 43 08 35, reservations@ alh.hr, www.alh.hr. Hits the spot if you have contemporary tastes and take your surroundings seriously. A great pool and beach area, spa facilities and cool reception complete with arty waterfall and gallery. The soothing rooms are complete with Gharani Strok toiletries - this is Daddy Strok’s hotel, after all. Q330 rooms (22 singles €161 - 320, 271 doubles €180 - 540, 12 suites €630 - 1600, 24 Junior Suites €300 - 940, 1 Presidential Suite €3420 - 3800). PTHARUFLEGBKDChhhhh Excelsior M-5, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-20) 35 33 53, fax (+385-20) 43 08 35, reservations@alh.hr, www. alh.hr. Completely renovated, this luxurious landmark has 141 bedrooms and 17 suites with every amenity possible. Delightfully furnished with state of the art facilities. Set near the heart of the Old City with splendid terraced views, fine dining with Dalmatian and international cuisine, an indoor pool, wellness and beauty centre, private beach entry and more. Q158 rooms (2 singles €218 - 340, 139 doubles €218 - 790, 16 suites €675 - 1300, 1 Presidential Suite €3750 - 4050). POTJHARUFLGBKDChhhhh

Where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

www.inyourpocket.com Grand Villa Argentina L-2, Frana Supila 14, tel. (+385-

20) 44 05 55, fax (+385-20) 47 57 93, reservations@ gva.hr, www.gva.hr. Something of a Dubrovnik classic, the Argentina has been receiving high-rollers ever since its 1920s heyday. Located ten minutes’ walk from the Ploče Gate, many of the hotel’s sea-facing rooms boast classic views of the town’s medieval fortifications. Rooms in the main building are supremely comfortable, and there is more secluded apartment-style accommodation in the four villas in the terraced gardens. With both indoor and outdoor pools and a private beach, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to taking a dip. Q165 rooms (1 singles €150 - 300, 158 doubles €160 - 600, 6 Junior Suites €400 - 850). PTHAFGBKDChhhhh

Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik K-3, Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, fax (+385-20) 32 02 20, sales.dubrovnik@hilton.com, www.dubrovnik.hilton. com. Refurbished and reopened in 2006 amidst a blaze of imperial glory, this grandmomma of a hotel, dating back to 1897, is near the Pile gate. Suites have fantastic views, and the terrace and piano bar are fine spots to unwind, as is the elegant indoor pool with natural sunlight. Q147 rooms (139 singles €380, 139 doubles €420, 139 triples €460, 7 suites €630 - 880, 1 Presidental Suite €1670). PTJHA6UFLGBKDChhhhh Importanne Resort Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, fax (+385-20) 44 02 00, info@ importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com. Experience Dubrovnik’s first resort. Choose from two hotels, Neptun (4 stars) or Ariston (5 stars), or Importanne suites (5 stars) that are nestled along the sea. Wellness facilities, spor ts and recreation, private car park, personalised services and a buffet restaurant that embraces the finest cuisine along with a noteworthy selection of wines. Dine on the terrace or walk along the seaside boardwalk. The natural surroundings are ideal and the resort is only a 10 minute drive from the Old Town. Special offers are available online as well as state of the art facilities for corporate functions. Q236 rooms (206 doubles €73 - 300, 30 apartments €190 - 800). PTHAUIFLGBKDCW Kazbek H-2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 29 99, fax (+385-20) 36 29 90, info@kazbek.hr, www. kazbekdubrovnik.com. This newly-opened hotel was built in 1573 by the noble family Zamanja as their summer castle. It was renovated in 2008 and still maintains its original beauty. The hotel has 12 double rooms and one suite. All rooms are of the highest quality with air-con, SAT & PAY TV, wireless internet and other features; perfect for guests seeking privacy and culture combined with modern facilities. 20 min from Old Town! Q13 rooms (12 singles €253 - 344, 12 doubles €288 - 393, 1 suites €390 - 519). PHA6LGKDC hhhhh Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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More F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33, tel. (+385-20) 49

42 00, fax (+385-20) 49 42 40, sales@hotel-more.hr, www.hotel-more.hr. This cliff-hugging establishment on the quiet side of Lapad bay offers the facilities of a blockbuster hotel but with a significantly more intimate feel - here at least you are unlikely to be stampeded by hundreds of other holidaymakers whose faces the hotel staff can never quite remember. The décor is slightly more individualistic too, with mood-enhancing squig gly blue-green carpet motifs and bronzey-coloured bedspreads. All rooms come with a trouser-press, a comforting luxury to have by your bedside even if you only treat it as a toy rather than using it properly. There is a small kidney-shaped pool on one of the sea-facing terraces - too small to seriously swim in but a nice touch nevertheless. Breakfast in the café-restaurant on a lovely sea-facing terrace. Q 37 rooms (5 singles €145 - 190, 29 doubles €205 - 340, 3 suites €450 - 800). PHAUFLGBKDChhhhh

Dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Finding a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with Dubrovnik In Your Pocket and Booking.com. Simply surf our conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the button and hey presto! You’re through to our reservations site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot is hot to trot, and off you go!

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Where to stay Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik G-4, Liechtensteinov put

3, tel. (+385-20) 20 00 00, fax (+385-20) 20 00 20, libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos.com. This grandiose cliff-side hotel, once a Dubrovnik trademark, was totally ruined during the 1991-95 war and stood derelict for ages before finally receiving the full makeover the place deserved. With full-sized trees in the lobby and cool minimalist design throughout, it’s an impressive place. Rooms are decked out in subdued beiges and whites, many featuring glass walled bathrooms (so you can look seawards while showering). The wellness centre covers pretty much everything from a Turkish bath to chocolate massage and a Jacuzzi that can be filled with milk - if you’ve always dreamed of acting out your Anthony-and-Cleopatra fantasies then you’ll never have a better chance. The hotel’s impressively large congress halls are situated right next door to the 24hr casino - is this a metaphor for the close relationship between corporate culture and the one-armed bandit? Q 253 rooms (226 doubles €255 - 320, 1 Presidential Suite €2000, 10 Deluxe Suites €360, 9 Spa Suites €750, 7 Executive Suites €750). POTHAUFLGBKDChhhhh The Pucić Palace C-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 62 22, fax (+385-20) 32 62 23, reception@ thepucicpalace.com, www.thepucicpalace.com. A breathtaking hotel in a real live palace in the heart of the Old Town. So beautifully decked out in period style, it will awaken the blubbering romantic in the most hardened cynic. The staff knocked us off our feet with their friendly and helpful approach. Q19 rooms (1 singles €295, 16 doubles €455 - 550, 1 suites €955, 1 Junior Suite €675). PTJAR6LEGBKhhhhh

Upmarket Dubrovnik President F-1, Iva Dulčića 39, tel. (+385-

20) 44 11 00, fax (+385-20) 43 56 00, reservationsdubrovnik@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. A shining white Toblerone on the tip of the Babin kuk peninsula, this remarkable modern edifice has oceans of glass offering unimpeded views of the sea, the islands and the Blue Flag beach outside. All rooms have sea views, the superior rooms being particularly smart. Price for apartment is available upon request. Q181 rooms (180 doubles €139 - 209, 1 apartment). PTHARFLGBKDChhhh Lapad H-2, Lapadska obala 37, tel. (+385-20) 45 55 55, fax (+385-20) 45 55 51, sales@hotel-lapad.hr, www. hotel-lapad.hr. A grand old hotel that has recently received a thorough dose of refurbishment, with rooms kitted out with a fresh lick of paint and swanky new bathrooms. The main nineteenth-century building is the kind of place in which you can imagine Hercule Poirot tracking down high-society murderers, although the modern annexe tacked on to the back of the building is significantly less atmospheric. Located opposite Gruž harbour, it is conveniently close to Lapad beach. Q163 rooms (10 singles €67 - 151, 147 doubles €98 - 226, 4 suites €192 - 358, 2 Junior Suites €164 - 318). PHAULGBKChhhh

Mid-range Aquarius G/H-2, Mata Vodopića 4a, tel. (+385-20) 45

61 11, fax (+385-20) 45 61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius. net, www.hotel-aquarius.net. Recently given a makeover, this three star hotel includes four apartments and a further twenty rooms that have been garlanded with all the necessities. Eat out on the restaurant terrace, relax in the bar and choose from the diverse local and international cuisine. It is only 350m from the beach and a mere 3km from the historical city. Q24 rooms (16 singles 567 - 841kn, 16 doubles 810 - 1160kn, 4 triples 1134 - 1624kn, 4 suites 1030 - 1382kn). PALBKhhh

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Argosy F-1, Iva Dulčića 41, tel. (+385-20) 44 61 00,

fax (+385-20) 43 55 78, reservations-dubrovnik@ valamar.com, www.valamar.com. This airy low-rise has a discreet modern theme, and is only a pebble’s throw from popular Copacabana beach, with a water slide and beach restaurant to keep big’uns and little’uns happy. Or take in the view from the Argosy’s pool with an ice cold beer… mmmm! Q308 rooms (308 doubles €80 - 139). PTHARLEGBKChhh Berkeley J-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20) 49 41 60, fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@ berkeleyhotel.hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. A small hotel with super comfy rooms and we suggest you request the wonderful sea view rooms. Fully furnished, modern in style, free internet, breakfast includes a cold buffet not to mention excellent lattes to get your day going. The hotel is located close to Gruž port so you can catch ferries out to the islands; it’s a 10 minute bus ride from the Old Town. Q24 rooms (13 doubles €130 - 165, 4 apartments €180 - 200, 7 Studio Rooms €140 - 160). PALGChhh Kompas G-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 56, tel. (+38520) 35 20 00, fax (+385-20) 43 08 35, reservations@ alh.hr, www.alh.hr. This smallish hotel close to the centre of Lapad is delightfully appointed in a clean and tasteful style in keeping with its modern design. The indoor and outdoor seawater pools (weather permitting) are excellent, and guests have unlimited free use of the gym, sauna and Jacuzzis. Q115 rooms (7 singles €80 - 150, 108 doubles €95 - 270). PTHAIFLEGBKDChhh Lero I-3, Iva Vojnovića 14, tel. (+385-20) 34 13 33, fax (+385-20) 33 21 23, booking@hotel-lero.hr, www. hotel-lero.hr. This complex is perfectly located between the Old Town and Gruž Cove. It’s a five minute bus ride to the centre and the beach is a mere 150m walk. All 155 rooms include air-conditioning, SAT-TV, shower, and toilet facilities. Breakfast and dinner packages are available as Tavern Nava and the Aperitif Bar are all in-house. Q155 rooms (155 singles €85 - 130, 155 doubles €110 - 180). PHA6LBKDChhh Petka I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+38520) 41 05 00/(+385-20) 41 05 03, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka.hr, www.hotelpetka.hr. This functional-looking four-storey pile right opposite the ferry port feels much better inside than it looks on the outside, with neat en-suite rooms decorated in blood-orange hues. Those facing the port offer an absolutely fascinating panorama of comingsand-goings in Gruž harbour, and if you like downtown hotels with a sense of urban bustle then Petka is no mean choice. The hotel’s Taverna Nostromo offers a solid range of local food. Laptop users rejoice: wifi coverage extends throughout the building. Q104 rooms (8 singles €80 - 115, 96 doubles €120 - 180). PHARIFLGBKhhh Stari grad B-2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, fax (+385-20) 32 12 56, info@hotelstarigrad.com, www.hotelstarigrad.com. This little antique treasure is hidden in a street just off Stradun in the Old Town. The eight rooms are small but perfectly formed, and breakfast on the roof terrace is one of the highlights of a sunny day. Q8 rooms (4 singles 992 - 1313kn, 4 doubles 1415 - 1767kn). PJA6UGBhhh Tirena F-2, Iva Dulčića 22, tel. (+385-20) 44 51 00, fax (+385-20) 43 56 02, reservations-dubrovnik@valamar. com, www.valamar.com. The jury is out - seventies eyesore or modernist delight? But the rooms are lovely, and the best bit is the bar in the middle of the pool where you can cool down from without and within simultaneously. Loads of sports and the famous Copacabana beach nearby. Q208 rooms (208 doubles €76 - 139). PTHALGBKChhh

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Where to stay Valamar Club Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 18,

tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, fax (+385-20) 44 76 03, reservations-dubrovnik@valamar.com, www.valamar. com. 338 rooms and only 150m from the beach. All you need is on site, including restaurant services, pool facilities, entertainment programmes, car parking, washing facilities and more. 22km from the airport and 150m from the bus stop. Ideal for a family holiday. Q338 rooms (338 doubles €130 - 179). PTALGBKChhh Vila Micika G/H-2, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 32/(+385-20) 43 73 23, fax (+385-20) 43 71 62, info@vilamicika.hr, www.vilamicika.hr. Whether you’re travelling solo or in a large group, Vila Micika in Lapad can cater from two to twenty. It has both rooms and dorms that are clean and tidy. Rooms are equipped with air-con, TV, showers and toilets. Travellers have free internet access and it’s a measly 200m walk to the beach. Bars, restaurants and a shopping center are all nearby. This is budget accommodation at its best! Q7 rooms (5 doubles €42 - 76, 2 triples €63 114). PTA6LNhhh

Islands Bon Repos Dubrovačka cesta 19, Korčula, tel. (+38520) 72 68 00/(+385-20) 72 63 36, fax (+385-20) 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula.hr, www.korcula-hotels.com. A modern complex five km from town, good for families and beach holidays with loads of activities and facilities. Q150 rooms (11 singles €63 - 90, 95 doubles €90 - 120, 44 triples €122 - 162). ALKChhh Hotel Glavović Obala Ivana Kuljevana bb, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 93 59, fax (+382-20) 75 93 58, info@ hotel-glavovic.hr, www.hotel-glavovic.hr. Run by a family with a century long tradition as hoteliers on this island and newly reopened in 2004 after full renovation, this lovely stone house in the heart of the promenade on Lopud offers excellent quality accommodation, and has a good restaurant. Q14 rooms (12 doubles €100 - 120, 2 apartments €150 - 180). PABKhhh

Hostel Dubrovnik Youth Hostel I-3, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 15-17), tel. (+385-20) 42 32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92, dubrovnik@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Although Dubrovnik’s youth hostel is sadly lacking in facilities, we found it clean and cheerful and can vouch for the comfy beds. A communal kitchen is at your disposal, there’s catering for large groups, and you can rent a bike or scooter next door. Q 82 dorm beds, 17 - 19€ per person. PABK Fresh Sheets B-4, Svetog Šimuna 15, tel. (+385-) 091 799 20 86, beds@igotfresh.com, www.igotfresh. com. One of Dubrovnik’s best choices for budget accommodation in the Old Town, Fresh Sheets is run by a friendly well-travelled Canadian / Croatian couple. Funky, characterful dorms, free breakfast and a guesthouse atmosphere make this place a true jewel. There’s a lively but not over-raucous bar and lounge, evening film screenings, a backpackers’ book exchange, and a list of suggested activities that includes the (highlyrecommended) “walking Maxie the dog up Mount Srđ”. Q 22 dorm beds, 28 - 33€ per person. AGW

Where to stay Korčula Obala Franje Tuđmana 5, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 72 64 80, fax (+385-20) 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula. hr, www.korcula-hotels.com. Choose this splendid villa in the centre of Korčula if you place historical romance above 21st century glamour - the hotel is rather dated inside, but it has a great terrace and an old-fashioned coffee house. Rooms are spacious and the sea view from the tall gothic windows is spectacular. Q20 rooms (13 doubles €50 - 80, 7 triples €50 - 80). PABKhhh Odisej Pomena bb, Mljet, tel. (+385-20) 36 21 11, fax (+385-20) 47 77 93, info@hotelodisej.hr, www. hotelodisej.com. The only modern hotel on Mljet island - a quiet complex set in thick vegetation in the resort of Pomena, right in the National Park. Rooms are simple, apartments have air conditioning and Jacuzzis. The diving school lets you explore the pristine waters of the island. Q157 rooms (12 singles 379 - 799kn, 125 doubles 233 - 579kn, 14 triples 233 - 579kn, 2 apartments 1399 - 2499kn, 4 Family Rooms 268 - 579kn). PTHAGBKhhh Šipan Šipanska luka 160, Šipan, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 00, fax (+385-20) 75 49 10, hotel-sipan@petral.hr, www. hotel-sipan.hr. This modest, medium sized hotel in the little port of Šipanska Luka is the last word in escapism. This fertile little island has little developed tourism, but has sunshine, clean water, a brace of good restaurants, excellent olive oil and tons and tons of peace and quiet. It also offers a Royal Cruiser Yacht for rent. Q82 rooms (10 singles €57 - 120, 62 doubles €60 - 166, 6 triples €90 - 249, 4 suites €139 - 220). THARUBKhhh Villas Koločep Donje čelo, Koločep, tel. (+385-20) 75 70 25, fax (+385-20) 75 70 27, reservations@kolocep. com, www.kolocep.com. The original Croatian name of this hotel is ‘Vile Koločep’ but suppress your sniggers, this collection of eight three-storey villas set among olive trees makes an ideal laid-back island retreat. Rooms are neat and tidy with tiled floors, minibar, flat-screen TVs and desk space, and Koločep’s sandy beach is mere a stone’s throw away. Q151 rooms (9 singles €85 - 155, 81 doubles €75 - 120, 24 triples €65 - 95, 22 Familiy Rooms €65 - 105, 15 Junior Suites €115 - 175). PTJHABKChhh Villa Vilina Obala Iva Kuljevana 5, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 93 33, fax (+385-20) 75 90 60, villa.vilina@gmail. com, www.villa-vilina.hr. The last word in elegance, this villa by Lopud’s Franciscan monastery and a tiny sandy beach has been beautifully renovated in a blend of traditional and contemporary styles to offer superb, well-equipped rooms and apartments and a lovely restaurant and terrace. Supremely relaxing - and friendly. Q15 rooms (12 doubles €120 - 190, 3 Junior Suites €155 - 309). PHAGKChhhh

Out of town Croatia Frankopanska 10, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47

55 55, fax (+385-20) 47 82 13, info@hotelcroatia. hr, www.hotelcroatia.hr. A short way east out of Cavtat town, the recently renovated Hotel Croatia offers modern, high standard accommodation. With wellness facilities, a well regarded taverna, a nightclub and the lively little town of Cavtat nearby, you won’t run short of fun and frolics. Q487 rooms (480 doubles €248 - 282, 3 suites €420 - 520, 2 Junior Suites €380 - 470, 2 Presidental Suites €655 - 1100). PHAFLEGBKDChhhhh

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Indijan Škvar, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 45 55, fax (+385-20) 71 45 67, indijan@indijan.hr, www. hotelindijan.hr. This family hotel is perfectly positioned with beachfront views and picturesque mountains in its surroundings. Furbished rooms have all the amenities a 4 star hotel could ever offer. Friendly staff organise island tour packages to assist visitors. A family restaurant, terrace, swimming pool and spa are just some of its other features. Q19 rooms (3 singles €95 - 105, 10 doubles €151 - 201, 4 triples €151 - 181, 2 Junior Suites €211 - 241). PAFLGKDChhhh Ostrea Mali Ston bb, tel. (+385-20) 75 45 55, fax (+38520) 75 45 75, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr. This small hotel is well placed for sampling the delights of the Pelješac peninsula, including the renowned seafood from the Mali Ston bay - it’s run by the family who own the Kapetanova kuća restaurant. Luxurious, traditional style accommodation plus a fleet of cars at your disposal. Q14 rooms (13 singles 490 - 690kn, 13 doubles 740 - 990kn, 1 Presidental Suite 1200kn). PA6ULBKhhh Plat Hotels and Villas Plat 47, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 90 00, fax (+385-20) 48 92 00, sales@hoteli-plat. hr, www.hoteli-plat.hr. Located 12km south of Dubrovnik and walking distance to the beach. New apartments are available for 2 to 3 people with your own kitchen and bath facilities. Car park included.Don’t miss the in-house Taverna Plat a-la-carte restaurant which cooks up delicious traditional gourmet dishes. Q107 rooms (107 apartments €67 - 152). AFLGBKChhh

Radisson Blue Resort & Spa Na moru 1, Orašac, tel. (+385-20) 36 15 00, fax (+385-20) 36 15 01, info. dubrovnik@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/ resort-dubrovnik. Sink into the holiday of a lifetime with this Five Star beachfront resort just 20 minutes from the Old Town. Choose from 201 sea view rooms or 207 deluxe apartments with state of the art facilities. Two restaurants offer both local and international mouthwatering cuisines; the Maraska Lounge Bar oozes subtlety and the luxury wellness centre includes out of this world thermal facilities. Q408 rooms (201 doubles €150 - 300, 207 suites €180 - 400). Prices need to be checked with the hotel. PTHA6UFLGKDChhhhh Supetar Obala dr. Ante Starčevića 27, Cavtat, tel. (+38520) 47 57 77, fax (+385-20) 47 57 93, reservations@ hotelsupetar.hr, www.hotelsupetar.hr. This small hotel in a stone building in the heart of lovely Cavtat has a familyrun atmosphere and is ideal for sightseeing, swimming and enjoying nightlife. Rooms are on the small side but the hotel is fully air conditioned and has a lovely breakfast terrace with cascades of bougainvillea. Q28 rooms (28 doubles €118 142). PJAULGBKhhh Vila Koruna Pelješki put 1, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, fax (+385-20) 75 46 42, vila-koruna@du.t-com.hr, www.vila-koruna.hr. Recently redecorated into a top quality restaurant and villa complex. Six rooms and two suites have been furnished with state of the art features. The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail. Q8 rooms (3 doubles €90, 2 triples €112, 1 quads €134). PJHALBKhhhh

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Summer 2011

restaurants Croatian Dubravka A-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19,

nautika@du.t-com.hr, www.dubravka1836.hr. Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Brsalje with Nautika (both restaurants have the same owners as Proto, Mimoza and Konavoski Dvori), and has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac, Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue beyond the walls. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (55 - 150kn). PAUGB Karaka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. (+385-) 091 660 00 05/ (+385-) 091 358 18 88, info@karaka.info, www.karaka. info. End a perfect summer’s day with a meal at sundown on a replica 16th century merchant ship just as they were made right here in Dubrovnik. It’s all in wood, rather luxurious, and the menu is just great - don’t miss local cured ham (pršut) and cheese. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00. (60 - 120kn). AGB Komin G-2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, info@restaurant-komin.com, www.restaurant-komin. com. The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes - try meat or fish ispod peke. A good choice in the Babin kuk area. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 110kn). PALGB Mimoza J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (80 - 120kn). PTAEGB Orhan K-3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83/ (+385-) 091 725 51 09, info@restaurant-orhan.com, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it’s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PJAGB Taverna Nostromo I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38 (Hotel Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41 05 24/(+385-20) 41 05 25, info@petka.hr, www.croatia-vacation.com. The food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna has a casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the essence of modern refinement. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn). PAGB

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Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

restaurants Symbol key P E T G O R

Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking areas Casino Internet

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Credit cards accepted Take away Facilities for the disabled Guarded parking Animal friendly Outside seating

Teatar C-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 77. Should you be in luck, you may find yourself seated in a classic terrace; otherwise this sidewalk restaurant is noted for its intimate setting. The menu oozes with seafood, steaks and pasta, but the grilled fish dishes prepared in nonchalant Dalmatian style are a must. Staff that knows more than just the local lingo will greet and treat you exceptionally well. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 150kn). AB Tovjerna Maro C-2, Petilovrijenci 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 75. Portions are not big and that is the entire point, here they promote diversity where you can pick and choose from an assortment of small meals enabling your taste buds to venture with pleasure. Call it Dalmatian tapas with meats, poultry, salads and sweets on offer, and all within your financial grasp. The ambience is comfy, warm and inviting, sample their fine array of Croatian and international wines. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (25 - 50kn). PAB Zoe F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 04 84, www.importanneresort.com. Located on the rocky south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled fish pureand-simple there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 120kn). PALGB

International Cantina Mexicana Chihuahua E-1, Hvarska 6, tel.

(+385-20) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. This rather pleasant Mexican sits eccentrically just uphill from the Ploče gates and serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs and wings, steaks and pasta. Try the piquant sausages and a black pancake to finish off with! QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. (50 - 100kn). PNB Domino Steak House B-3, Od Domina 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 03, domino@du.t-com.hr, w w w. steakhousedomino.com. A serious convention centre for carnivores, with steaks done in a multitude of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 140kn). PAGB Gil’s E-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 22, info@ gilsdubrovnik.com, www.gilsdubrovnik.com. Swanky gourmet dining in an extravagant location, with tables pressed into the battlements of Dubrovnik’s sea walls. Sit in the main courtyard and observe goings on in the open kitchen, or reserve one of the barrel-vaulted gun apertures in the depths of St Luke’s bastion. Classic French main courses, lovingly prepared and presented, will set you back between 250-400kn, but you’re unlikely to be asking for your money back. The staggering wine list provides plenty of additional opportunities for splashing out large style. For cocktails, chill-out music and romantic views of the Old Town’s port, head for the Pop Lounge on the bastion’s castellated upper level. Q Open 12:00 14:00, 19:00 - 23:00. (190 - 350kn). PAGB

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Spaghetteria Toni B-3, Nikole Božidarevića 14, tel.

(+385-20) 32 31 34. Their slogan is The best pasta in town! And who are we to argue? This cute trattoria, clean and simple, is indeed a good place to enjoy all kinds of pasta dishes prepared by the chef/owner and served by friendly staff. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 75kn). PAGB Taj Mahal C-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 099 323 22 12, kucaedo@du.t-com.hr. You guessed it, the Old Town’s only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good grilled meats including ćevapi - shish kebab. Try one of the pite pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 115kn). AGB

Konoba Blidinje H-2, Lapadska obala 21, tel. (+385-20) 35 87 94. You feel that ‘Dalmatian’ sparkle here with its old stony walls embellished by ancient artefacts. The restaurant is casual and snug, whilst the terrace offers picturesque views of the Gruž harbour, bay and surrounding hills. Situated in the heart of the Lapad peninsula, the meat and seafood dishes are local delights, and here they are baked under a metal bell, covered with hot ash which produces a delectable roast. Reasonably priced and nicely spiced! QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (40 - 95kn). PAGB Lokanda Peskarija D-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 50, www.mea-culpa.hr. Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried small fish or the black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (61 - 83kn). PAGB

Pjatanca L-5, Koločepska 2, tel. (+385-20) 42 09 49. Head towards Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you come to this simple family run establishment. Seek their advice and you might just get something a little out of the ordinary - real home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked under an iron bell. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 110kn). ABX Pupo C-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55. Compact and bijou, this konoba offers a limited menu of well-prepared home style fish dishes and steaks, fresh and good value for money. Apart from the Old Town location, the guitar in the corner helps add to the cosy, jolly atmosphere. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 180kn). AEGB Rozario D-2, Prijeko 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 099 315 65 50, marin.vuletic@du.t-com.hr, www. konoba-rozario.hr. On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here. QOpen 12:00 23:00. (70 - 125kn). PAB

Light bites Buffet Škola C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (21 - 27kn). PNG Niko C-3, Od puča 9. A place to grab a light snack on the hoof, ranging from sandwiches and pizza cuts to local speciality pies, muffins, quiches and more.... Q Open 07:30 - 23:00.

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Summer 2011

restaurants Rustico I-3, Vukovarska bb, Lapad bus stop, tel. (+385-

20) 780 78 78. By the bus station for local lines, nestled in greenery just beyond the petrol station, this little kiosk offers freshly prepared warm and cold sandwiches. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.

Mediterranean Atlas club Nautica A-2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (257 - 398kn). PJAGB Eastwest Beach Club Restaurant L-5, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20, info@ew-dubrovnik.com, www.ew-dubrovnik.com. In the beach complex by the Ploče gates languishes this hybrid of minimalism and Far East design aesthetics, offering everything from sandwiches and burgers (around 50kn) to gazpacho, plate salads, and a strong selection of international meat and seafood dishes. A classy place for a bite. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 125kn). PJALGB Poklisar D-2, Ribarnica 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 76, kavana_poklisar@yahoo.com, www.poklisar.com. The terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. Live piano-bar music in the evenings adds a touch of romance to the proceedings. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00 (60 - 130kn). PJAEGB Renaissance C-2, Vara bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 99, renaissance@du.t-com.hr, www.renaissance-restaurantdubrovnik.com. Light, Mediterranean meals with value-formoney lunch and dinner menus. The whole ceiling is hand decorated in floral motifs in shades of gold and red, while this rich style is complemented with photos of old Dubrovnik and the local saying Non bene pro toto libertas venditus auro (Freedom is not sold for even all the gold of the world). QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150). PAEGB Sesame J-3, Dante Alighieria bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 29 10, misko.ercegovic@du.t-com.hr, www.sesame.hr. An Aladdin’s cave of antique treasures, contemporary music and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). AGB Taverna Maslina F-3, Masarykov put 20 (Dubrovnik Palace Hotel), tel. (+385-20) 43 03 57/(+385-20) 43 00 00, www.dubrovnikpalace.hr. The coolest design hotel in Dubrovnik has an elegant restaurant with sea views and stylish poolside seating. The cuisine is excellent: Dalmatian specialities with a contemporary twist, and light Mediterranean tastebud-tinglers. Grilled chicken sandwiches make a great lunchtime treat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (120 400kn). ALEGBX

Breakfast Bistro Dubrava C-2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 29. Offers classics like ham and eggs in great surroundings.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (34 - 56kn). AB

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Wine bars D’vino C-2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, info@dvino.net. In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in half-sozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. A Vapor I-3, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88,

www.hotel-bellevue.hr. The Bellevue Hotel restaurant is perfectly located near the city centre and commands an amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this vivacious diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy the more refined tongue. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 22:00. (90 - 250kn). PAGBX

Out of town Ankora Zaton bb, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31. The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great for a romantic meal at sundown, it’s worth the trip to this little village just north of Dubrovnik. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (40 - 200kn). AB Bota Šare Kroz polje 5, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, botamaliston@gmail.com, www.bota-sare.hr. Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing the cooked little critters. Excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 200kn). PALGB Galija Vuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66, mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re hard enough! This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn). PAEGBX Kapetanova kuća Mali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr. Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of the sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by sharp pieces of prawn detritus in the robustly flavourful risotto and by the stale bread (it was Sunday). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn). PALGB dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

restaurants

restaurants Ice cream and cakes Dolce vita C-2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20)

32 16 66. This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PNB GradsKavana D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 02 / press 2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.meaculpa.hr. The excellent city coffee house, for many years a cult meeting place, has a superb collection of cakes. We particularly like the macaroni cake with walnuts and the almond cake (kolač od mandule), and apple pita is excellent too. Melt in the mouth! QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PJAB Sugar&Spice B-3, Sv.Josipa 5, tel. (+38520) 32 40 39,/(+385-) 091 361 95 50, www. sugarandspicedubrovnik.com. Every once in a while most of us surrender to a craving and this small temple of sweet and salty Croatian homemade delicious cakes, tarts and souvenirs is just the haven needed. It is located in the tranquil part of the Old Town, just beside the Stradun where you can sit on the terrace and indulge in coffee or anything your taste buds desire. Q June, September Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00. A

Konavoski dvori Ljuta, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10

39/(+385-) 098 35 78 62, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www. esculap-teo.hr. Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBX Konavoski komin Velji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 96 07, smilja.siljug@hotmail.com. Set in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace has a fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and home made apple strudel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). ALGBX Konoba Marinero Šetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@ du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a supremely relaxing treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 130kn). ALGB Leut Trumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/ (+385- ) 098 24 42 25, ivan.bobic@du.t-com.hr, www. restaurant-leut.com. One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 250kn). PAGBX Obala Obala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 91 70, obala@du.t-com.hr. There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud’s waterfront with a trio of stately palm trees offering shade. The menu covers familiar fish and seafood territory with the addition of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes. Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the house. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (150 300kn). PAGB

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Orsan Gverović Štikovica 43, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-

20) 89 12 67, restaurant@gverovic-orsan.hr, www. gverovic-orsan.hr. This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 160kn). ALGBX Pjat Šipanska luka 160, Šipan, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 23, mariomarkobasic@vip.hr. A beautiful old palace on this idyllically quiet harbour is the stylish venue for Mediterranean fusion delights QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 150kn). NGBX Spinaker Frankopanska 10 (Hotel Croatia), Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 55 55, www.hotelcroatia.hr. Ahoy matey! Sea food lovers pay attention as this newly renovated restaurant offers delicious locally caught fish and grill specialties as inspired by Dalmatian and Mediterranean cuisine. Find yourself tucked away along the seashore with splendid views of the Cavtat bay; the fresh breeze and the sound of waves are a stone throw away. QOpen 10:00 24:00. (60 - 210kn). ANBX Toranj Obala A. Starčevića 2, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 95 77/(+385-) 091 478 10 99, www.konoba-toranj.com. Situated beside a busy seafront square and with outdoor seating on a first-floor terrace, Toranj does a consistently grand job of dishing out the best in Dalmatian cuisine. Grilled fish and shellfish as usual take up most pages in the menu, although there’s a solid choice of seafood pasta dishes which - despite being listed as starters - constitute a satisfying main course in their own right. Leave room for the tasty desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 130kn). PAGBX

Triton Zaklopatica bb, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11

61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, konoba-triton@du.t-com.hr, www.triton.hr. A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home made Mediterranean herb rakija - it’s all the stuff of dreams! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 200kn). NGBXW Villa Neretva Splitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 67 22 01/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, info@hotelvilla-neretva.com, www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. A family run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog. If your courage doesn’t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range of traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada - beef in sauce with prunes and gnocci. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). PALGBX X

Pizza Baracuda B/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+38520) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy! QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. (25 - 80kn). PNGBS Mea Culpa B-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30, meaculpa@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. Serves up a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be a bit iffy in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a grill for ćevapčići (shish kebab, basically) and a lovely dark wood pub with a great stack of rock-based CDs on the bar. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 24:00. July, August Open 10:00 - 01:00. (27 - 70kn). PJAGBS

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Summer 2011

CAFéS

Restaurants

NIGHTLIFE

Cafés In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This process seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders wondering who the hell does any work around here. So the cafés are always busy, and the coffee usually good. The standard espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere, while a latte here is called a bijela kava (white coffee).

Oliva D-3, Lučarica 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 94. In an alleyway behind the Stradun, Oliva seems slightly more authentic than some of the other pizzerias in town, as if a bit more thought has gone into the quality of the ingredients that go on top of the pie. Pizzas come in sizes of either small (i.e. just about sufficient for one person) or large - the larger ones being big enough to feed approximately one and a half hungry adults, presuming you can find half an adult to share with. Salads, lasagnas and takeaway service also available. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 90kn). PAGB

Seafood Kamenice C-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82. Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (58 - 110kn). BS Pergola H-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 48/(+385-) 098 24 37 61, pergola1862@net.hr. This little restaurant has been on this spot for years. It’s sweet and intimate with attentive staff, and is well known for exceptionally fresh fish, simply prepared to let the flavours come to the fore. On the pleasant terrace, food is prepared on a charcoal grill before your very eyes. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00. (80 - 150kn). PALG Proto C-2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, sales@ esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Nautika’s little brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong contender for top dining spot. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn). PAGB Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr. The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PALB

Vegetarian Nishta C-2, Prijeko 30, tel. (+385-) 098 186 74 40,

info@nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant. com. Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find vegetarian food from all over the world including Mexican, Indian and Chinese. Choose from falafel, curry, soups and spring-rolls. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. ABS

Photo by Marko Lokas

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Africa C-2, Vetranićeva 3. Among the many little cafés tucked in the side streets off Stradun, this is one of our favourites for the cool artwork and good music. It’s a place where locals catch up over a brew. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PBX Biker’s Cafe L-2, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. (+385-) 091 764 69 19, bobara-komerc@du.t-com.hr, www.bikerscaffe.com. Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to sort you out with a place to stay. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNB Fashion Café H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7. In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PGB Festival D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo. sanje@du.t-com.hr. This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PAB Galerie C-2, Kunićeva 5. One of a plethora of little cafes stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its youthful clientele. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PAGB GradsKavana D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 02 / press 2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa. hr. A kavana is a Austro-Hungarian style coffee house, and the wonderful thing about this one, apart from the fine architecture and location, is that it’s been given delightful modern touches and offers a selection of fantastic cakes. Try the cake made with macaroni and walnuts. QOpen 08:00 01:00. PJAGB Laura L-2, Frana Supila 1, tel. (+385-) 099 506 22 60, brigita.mrkic@gmail.com. Easily overlooked, but shouldn’t be - the view over the walled city from the terrace just above the Ploče gate is phenomenal, and inside great music (commercial dance and local rock) plus fine local travarica (herb brandy) rule the roost. Turns into a night bar weekends during high season. QOpen 06:30 - 02:00. PBX Living Room I-2, Ante Starčevića 7, tel. (+385-20) 46 86 52/(+385-) 091 567 26 32. A café/bar that is comfortable and relaxing, it’s great for that casual chat amongst friends in a setting that is neat, casual and well known for its fine coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 02:00. PNGBXW Porto Put Bruna Bušića 6, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 23 32 34. It’s a hop out of town in the village of Srebreno (you can get there on the bus heading for Cavtat), but this big, modern space which serves as a chillout zone by day and a lively bar with dancing by night has proved to be very popular with local trendseters at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PGBX Talir C-2, Antuninska bb. A classy spot to sup your coffee amidst antique style furnishings and artwork. If that’s not enough to satisfy your aesthetic as well as caffeine cravings, you can pop into the gallery opposite afterwards. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PB dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Bars

Orlando Club

Arsenal D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 65

/ press 1/(+385-) 098 983 08 31, sales@mea-culpa. hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. This huge space is a former repair workshop for wooden galleys. Plonk yourself at one of the pirate-sized wooden tables and chow down on great seafood (served by midnight), have a drink or three, take in a live band and indulge in a spot of shimmying on the dancefloor - in any order or combination. Spectacular. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. PAB Buža D-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 53/(+385-) 098 36 19 34. What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00. B Capitano K-3, Između vrta 2, tel. (+385-) 098 36 64 70. This bar is usually empty before the witching hour, after which it transforms into a scene of drinking, dancing and shenanigans which go on ‘til the wee small hours. Commercial dance, occasional live bands and hormone-fuelled youth dressed to kill. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PB Mirage C-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PBX None Nina D-3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09, info@nonenina.com, www.nonenina.com. A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace - you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy people. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PENB Rock Caffe Exit C-2, Boškovićeva 2. Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff. Has one computer which is free to use. Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PX

Summer 2011

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SkyBar C-3, Marojice Kaboge 1, tel. (+385-) 091 220 20 94, bradley@du.t-com.hr. Administering a much-needed dose of urban eating and drinking culture to the Old Town, this newly opened café-cum-diner and lounge bar has settled quickly into its own niche. Expect to find both local beer and Erdinger on tap, a mind-boggling array of spirits, and an attractively-priced list of cocktails. There’s an excellent choice of upscale pub fodder in the shape of salads, burgers and steaks. Blending slate grey, soothing whites and mood-enhancing purples, the interior is smart and slinky without being overdone. If the delightfully dotty abstract mosaic on the back wall starts revolving in front of your eyes, though, it’s probably time you were in bed. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PAEBW Troubadour Hard Jazz Cafe C-3, Bunićeva poljana 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 76. It’s hard to beat a warm evening spent here toe-tapping to mellow jazz (live acts too), with your super-size view onto the Cathedral. A near-perfect experience, so we’ll forgive the significantly above-average prices. Q Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. ENB

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Eastwest beach club L-5, Frana Supila 4, tel. (+385-20)

41 22 20, info@ew-dubrovnik.com, www.ew-dubrovnik. com. The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect their tans, since East West rents out funky loungers and screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man says go home. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. PAB Fuego A-2, Brsalje 8, tel. (+385-20) 31 28 70, clubfuego@ gmail.com, www.dubrovniknightclub.com. A proper little club on Pile. As the name suggests, you’ll often find a Latin theme down here, but other nights mainstream rock, dance, the odd live band… And on hot summer nights when you’re full of cocktails and joie de vivre, who really cares? QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. PNB

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Boats Karaka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. (+385-20) 35 81 08/

(+385-) 091 660 00 05, 091 358 18 88, info@karaka. info, www.karaka.info. Moored in the Old City Harbour, this beautiful replica of a traditional Dubrovnik merchant ship of the 16th century functions as a bar and restaurant when it’s not carrying lucky folks on sailing tours of the islands. QOpen 19:00 - 21:30. A

Casinos Golden Sun Casino H/I-3, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel

Rixos Libertas), tel. (+385-20) 63 85 88, marketing@major. hr, www.goldensuncasino.hr. Feeling lucky? Then visit Golden Sun Casino in Five Star Rixos Libertas Hotel. It offers fun winning opportunities to suit all pockets, from the newest slot machines, roulette, and card tables, to Texas Holdem Poker Tournaments & cash games held every night from 8 ‘til late. Kick up your heels with fresh beverages and lounge bar music. The Casino’s free shuttle bus will pick you up and take you home in comfort. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00. EK

Clubs

Culture Club Revelin D-2, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 946 89 61/(+385-) 091 250 25 88, cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin. com. Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jampacked with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views. Open to early morning hours on most nights. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Ginja Lounge Club Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Na moru 1, Orašac, tel. (+385-20) 36 15 00, www.radissonblu. com/resort-dubrovnik. Night owls will devour the Radisson Resort’s evening club venue featuring a lounge, restaurant area with show kitchen, DJ and dance floor. Innovative Indian fusion dishes can be washed down with some signature cocktails, champagne by the glass and healthy juices. Then step out onto the outdoor terrace and dance floor for some mingling and partying ‘til the early morning hours. Q June - August Open twice a week 20:00 - 03:00. No further information available at time of going to print. Lazareti L-2, Frana Supila 8, arl@du.htnet.hr, www. arl.hr. These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Orlandinjo Club F-3, Masar ykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-20) 43 00 00, info@ dubrovnikpalace.hr, www.dubrovnikpalace.hr. The Palace is one of the grooviest corners of Dubrovnik, practically exploding with contemporariness, and urbanites will find the nightclub is no exception. Live jazz acts go down nicely with excellent wines and cocktails, but be aware you do pay for your fancy surroundings! Q Open on request and by prior arrangement. PA Orlando J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 41, klub_umo@ yahoo.com. A mul ti-talented organisation organising excellent live bands, DJ appearances, film screenings, workshops, exhibitions and much much more, leaning towards the alternative stream of culture. Check out the club’s Fecebook page for what’s on. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Lounge bars Culto I-4, Iva Vojnovića 39a. Escape the scorching summer

heat and cool off at Culto! What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Victoria L-2, Frana Supila 14 (Grand Villa Argentina), tel. (+385-20) 44 05 55, www.victoria-restaurant. com. Oozes class, classical architecture, quality service and contemporary ambience. Above all, the European menu concept changes with the seasons and focuses on local delights, organic products and fresh ingredients. With a majestic view that overlooks the Old Town and a wine list that tingles the pallet, a gastronomic experience of elegance and panache waits. Q June - September 30 Open 18:00 - 01:00 and depending on weather conditions. E

Pubs Arch Pub C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 30 69 90,

www.dubrovnikpub.com. As the name says, it is housed under the arch behind the Cathedral. One of the rare places playing music other than house and mainstream. This fact and the successful combination of stone and dark wood make you want to stay and just keep ordering those Irish beers they keep. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. Katie O’Connor’s Irish Pub C-2, Dropčeva 4a, tel. (+38520) 32 15 75/(+385-) 091 220 20 94, bradley@du.t-com. hr. Brand new in 2006 but managing to look centuries old, this delightful stone cellar in one of the streets leading north of Stradun is a decent spot to drink. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PABX

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What to see Lokrum Island L-3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www.

Dubrovnik justifiably invites hyperbole - every corner in the Old Town, in its entirey a UNESCO World Heritage site, has spellbinding charm and tells many a story. Although the city dates back to the 7th century, many buildings were devastated in a terrible earthquake in 1667, and were rebuilt resulting in the rather harmonious style you see today. The architects of Dubrovnik included the best of the Croatian masters, including Juraj Dalmatinac (also responsible for the cathedral at Šibenik and the entire town of Pag) in combination with masters from Venice, Dubrovnik’s main rival and trading partner. Architectural beauty is perhaps a cause of a deep immersion in the arts that manifests itself in galleries and festivals.

Essential Dubrovnik Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan)

D-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 23. The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 11:00 and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20kn.

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lokrum.hr. You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views. Q Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information. A return ticket costs 50kuna. Stradun, Placa B/C-2, When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-Roman Stradun by Marin Šperanda refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel - this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls. The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) D-3, Luža 3. Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, August 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 24:00. No admission.

Summer 2011

What to see The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) D-3, Pred Dvorom

The Rector’s Palace

The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča) , www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Almost

two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Admission 30 - 70kn.

1, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97. One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is now a museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display. Q Admission 20 - 40kn.

Museums Bukovac House (Kuća Bukovac) Bukovčeva 5,

Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, muzej@kuca-bukovac. hr, www.kuca-bukovac.hr. See works by Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922), one of the most famous modern Croatian painters, in the setting of his charming Cavtat home. Part of the house is devoted to exhibitions of works by young artists, offering an invigorating counterpoint. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka Male braće) B-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20)

32 14 10, mala.braca@du.t-com.hr, www.malabraca. hr. The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

01.07 - 15.10 From the Dubrovnik Art Gallery Collection, Vlaho Bukovac, Adio, 1903.

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What to see

What to see The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića)

B-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej) C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.

Although newly opened, the collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions which currently include photography by the Croatian Biospeliological Sociaty of the cave life of the Dubrovnik region. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej Rupe) B-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13. “Rupe”

The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i

židovski muzej) D-2, Žudioska 5. The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn.

is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission 20 - 40kn. Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) E-4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04. Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn.

Dubrovnik’s citizens have often had cause to ask for help over the ages, and have never forgotten to say thank you. That’s why they engaged in building so many churches. Here are just a few of the main ones in the Old Town.

Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata)

B-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains household objects they used in order to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas time. Q Open on request and by prior arrangement. Admission 10 - 15kn. Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa) B-2, Placa bb. The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from the Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette window on the front. It was built around 1520 by grateful citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake - it is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped with carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for concerts and recitals.

Rozario Church and Confraternity (Crkva i

bratovština Rozario) D-2, Zlatarska. Opposite the Dominican monastery is a further building which once formed part of the complex, and includes the diminutive Rosary church - nowadays used as an occasional gallery space. The building dates back to 1594 and is built in mannerist and baroque styles. Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons (Pravoslavna crkva i Muzej ikona) C-3, Od Puča 8,

tel. (+385- 20) 32 32 83. Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church was built from 1865-1877, and stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan, but those looking for a more extensive collection should head for the museum on the second floor of the building next door. Q Church Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Museum Open 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Church Admission free. Museum Admission 5 - 10kn. St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) C-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00. Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city. Mass in English In June, July and August mass is held in English every day at 12:00. QOpen 06:30 - 20:00.

Modern History Museum (Muzej suvremene povijesti) B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 1, tel. (+385-

20) 32 48 56. The Museum’s work focuses on gathering documentation on contemporary history since World War Two, including memoirs and photography. From time to time you can see all their exhibitions in the Rector’s Palace. The museum doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions. The Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) D-4, Braće Andrijića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 41, arheoloski. muzej@du.htnet.hr. The Archeological museum currently does not have a permanent residence, and some of its collections are still under preparation, but you can see objects dating back to prehistoric times excavated from the Old Town, including fragments of early Romanesque churches featuring the attractive plaitwork typical of Dalmatia. A prehistoric ceramic pot and female bust were found on the Pelješac peninsula. The museum doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Churches

St Katherine’s Convent (Samostan sv. Katarine) C-3, Strossmayerova 3. The graceful building which now houses the acclaimed Art School, in one of the oldest parts of town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St Katherine.

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Summer 2011

What to see St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) D-2,

Zlatarska. This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was added in 1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter, which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.

St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana)

D-2, Sv. Dominika. This 15th century church was built by the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone steps and balustrade. The Cathedral (Katedrala) D-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96. The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 07:30, 09:00, 10:00, 18:00. Q Open 08:00 - 17:30, 18:30 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:30, 18:30 20:00. Treasury admission 10 - 15kn.

Landmarks Dubrovnik Cable Car Travel in style to the peak of Mount

Srđ in the recently opened cable car. The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street . Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. September, October Open 09:00 - 20:00. Đurovića Cave - Skycellar Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi. So your plane lands and minutes later you find yourself in a cave! Yes, it is true! Just beneath the Dubrovnik Airport, there is a cave that stretches 200 meters in length and is a fast growing attraction. Audio guides in English, Russian and Croatian will take you through this adventure where Mother Nature has for centuries been working her magic. As a memento of your visit, the aptly named Skycellar offers a vast range of authentic wines from this region as well as genuine souvenirs. Q June - October open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 50kn. Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) C/D-3 This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.

Đurovića Cave, Photo by Dubrovnik Partner doo Onofrio’s Fountains - Great and Small (Velika i mala Onofrijeva fontana) B-2, D-3, Poljana Paska

Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers. The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia. Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun. Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) D-2, Pred Dvorom. In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.

The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara)

D-3, Pred Dvorom. Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green color is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - ‘the green ones’ - or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower - an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst centrepoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.

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What to see The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica i kazalište Marina Držića) D-3, Pred Dvorom 1. South

of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening. The City Harbour (Gradska luka) D/E-2/3 Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal. The Lazaret (Lazareti) L-5 Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties. Visia Dubrovnik 5D Multimedia Museum B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 (St Clara Convent, Stradun), info@visiadubrovnik.com, www.visiadubrovnik.com. The ancient walls of St. Clara’s Convent are new home to a state of the art 5D Multimedia Museum. With the use of virtual reality and hologram projections, visitors are taken through an incredible journey into the history and culture of Dubrovnik and Croatia. Offered in six languages, experience the trials and tribulations of this grand city. Whilst there, see the World Network Concept, a fun way of spreading peace virtual style! Q Tickets 50 - 75kn. U

Revelin Fortress

Prevlaka, tel. (+385-20) 79 15 55/(+385-) 098 26 14 66, www.prevlaka.hr. This park offers loads for active souls - choose between biking, canoing or wandering the tunnels. If you’re hungry you can have a bite at their Konoba, and if you’re hot take a dip in the clean sea. Entry 15kn. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Horse riding Kojan koral Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-)

Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions. The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.The exhibit Sculptures from the Middle Ages is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and its surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit Archaeological research and foundry workers present how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men. Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian danger. Ascend one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to see archived documents, walk through summer residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region. Some of these are mostly inaccessible to the public and are an ex tremel y important part of Dubrovnik’s h eri tage. Q Admission to all the exhibits aforementioned costs 30kn which includes access to the fortress terrace.

Romance on Porporela

The Aquarium (Akvarij) E-3, Kneza Damjana Jude

One of the favourite romantic strolls of the people of Dubrovnik is along the breakwater which is given the feminine name Porporela, by St John’s fortress. With benches overlooking the old harbour and Lokrum island while the waves lap around, it’s easy to see why so many songs have been written about this place and why so many couples have fallen in love here…

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral. hr. Even a total beginner can enjoy a two hour ride in the Konavle countryside: helmets, insurance and moron-proof instructions are provided. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

Scuba diving Abyss - Diving & Water-sport Centre G-2, Iva Dulčića

35 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel. (+385-) 098 24 43 49/(+385-) 099 256 12 56, diving@apnea.hr, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Q April - November Open 09:30 - 18:00. Blue Planet F-3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, info@blueplanetdiving.com, www.blueplanet-diving.com. For info out of season call 091 899 09 73. Q May - November Open 09:00 - 19:00. Diving Club Dubrovnik G/H-1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, rk@du-diver. hr, www.du-diver.hr. On Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Sea kayaking Adriatic Kayak tours K-4, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27 70/(+385-) 091 722 04 13, info@ adriatickayaktours.com, www.adriatickayaktours.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A Adventure Dalmatia Pile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 526 38 13, info@adventuredalmatia. com, www.adventuredalmatia.com. Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle. More information on 091 566 59 42 and 091 526 38 13. Q April - October Open 08:00 - 22:00. LaurAdventure K-4, Istarska 3, tel. (+385-) 091 930 92 60/(+385-) 091 530 25 12, info@laura-adventure.com, www.laura-adventure.com. Sea kayaking, free climbing, trekking. For info call the mobiles above. Q Working hours by appointment.

Tennis Babin Kuk tennis centre F/G-3, Iva Dulčića bb, tel.

The Aquarium 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78. Housed in the magnificent St John’s fortress (Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it. Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less than impressed. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 40kn.

Prevlaka Nature Park

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(+385-20) 44 76 27. You should call for an appointment to check when there is a free court, 40kn per hour. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Dubrovnik tennis club H-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, teniskiklubdubrovnik@ gmail.com. You need to call for an appointment a day earlier. 80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay 100kn. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

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Summer 2011

sport

Fishing on the Adriatic “The gods do not subtract from the allotted span of men’s lives the hours spent on fishing.” - Assyrian proverb The Croatian Adriatic is among cleanest seas in Europe. Add to that its warmth, shallowness, and lack of strong tides and currents, and you have an ideal environment for the joys of recreational fishing. Croatia is often called “the country of a thousand islands” due to its 66 islands, 652 islets, 389 rocks and 78 reefs. The waters of the Adriatic are rich in fish, aquatic mammals, seaweed, plankton, shellfish, crabs and sponges. It’s no wonder that the tradition of fishing here goes back millennia. Apart from being a vital industry and a traditional way of life, fishing today for many people provides an ideal way to relax and reconnect with nature. Fishing techniques tend to be passed down through generations, and you’ll often see grandparents and grandchildren heading out happily together to catch fish. The locals, of course, know the best tips and tricks for their particular waters, and will usually be glad to help and advise you.

There are over 400 species of fish native to the Adriatic, and if you’re hunting for your lunch or dinner in a local restaurant you’ll most likely “catch” orada (sea bass), brancin (sea bream), arbun (common pandora), skuša (mackerel), lokarda (chub mackerel), srdele (sardines), papaline (sprats), škarpina (scorpion fish), trlja (red mullet), ušata (saddled seabream), pic (sharpsnout seabream), zubatac (dentex), grdobina (monkfish), and kovač (John Dory). However, because of various threats presented by mankind such as pollution, overfishing and increasingly intensive tourism, more and more species native to the Adriatic are endangered. The following species have protected status in Croatia: the ocean sunfish (lat. Mola mola), fan mussel (Pinna nobilis), date mussel (Lithophaga lithophaga), Caspian gull (Larus cachinnans), green wrasse Labrus viridis), sea cucumber (Holothurioidea), Mediterranean monkseal (Monachus monachus), common bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops truncates), common dolphin (Delphinus delphis), the whale, the sea turtle, the shellfish Dolium galea and Mitra zonata, the large sea snail Triton’s Trumpet (Charonia tritonis), and Neptune Grass (Posidonia oceanica). There are several ways to fish at sea, and most people take part in sea fishing for sport and recreation. Whichever kind of fishing you want to enjoy, you must first make sure you take care of the paperwork. You can buy permits covering one day (60kn), three days (150kn), seven days (300kn) and one month (700kn), while Croatian citizens and foreigners with temporary residence in Croatia can buy one year permits. Prices are subject to change, and are the same for sport and recreational licences. When buying a sports licence you must also purchase a membership card of the Croatian Sea Sport Fishing Association, which costs 50kn. Licences can be bought at offices of the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Rural Development in Pula, Rijeka, Senj, Zadar, Šibenik, Split, Ploče and Dubrovnik; in travel agencies, harbourmasters’ offices and from authorized resellers; while the membership card of the Sport Fishing Association is bought from the organization itself. You can find a list showing where to buy recreational licences at the Minstry’s website,www.mps. hr, which has English pages. For the sport fishing licence and membership, see www.hssrm.hr/mjesta-prodajadozvola.html Fishing is not allowed in special reservations, in harbours or on beaches between 1 June and 1 October. There are special regulations governing fishing in national parks. The maximum daily catch is 5kg for recreational and sport licences, and you may not sell or exchange your catch.

Photo by Nedo Buljan Keen anglers will find all kinds of fishing opportunities in Croatia due to the diversity of the coastal terrain. Just some of the places you might like to explore include: the islands of Mali Lošinj, Jabuka, Svetac and Mali Ždrelac; the channel that connects the Zadar and the Central channels; and the Bay of Pag, where there are so many fish that you can exceed your legal fishing limit with alarming ease. Then there’s the Tri Sestrice islets near Zadar and the entire Zadar archipelago. Lovers of spearfishing will find their nirvana in the mystical depths around the islands of Glavat and Molunat. You can also have unique fishing experiences off the coast of the Pelješac peninsula and close to the island of Šolta, a spot so beloved of Roman emperor Diocletian that he ordered fish ponds be built on the island. You might be lucky enough to spot a Mediterranean monk seal, one of the world’s most endangered species, which is often spotted around Šolta.

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Photo by Nedo Buljan

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Photo by Nedo Buljan There is also a list of regulations on the protection of fish species which stipulates the minimum size of commercially important fish and other sea creatures that may be caught. If you accidentally find a female spiny lobster in your net, or a European lobster with eggs, you must immediately put them back in the sea regardless of their size. Most people go fishing from a quiet spot on the shore or from a small fishing boat, while adrenalin seekers go for either big game fishing or spearfishing. Big game fishing is an exciting sport using fast boats on the open sea to catch powerful fish such as tuna and marlin. Licences are for sale in travel agencies. The largest and most prized catch on the Croatian Adriatic is bluefin tuna, which is in season from August to January. The belt of water around the island of Blitvenica and the Kornati archipelago is especially suitable for bluefin tuna fishing. Other “big game” which can be caught in this way include swordfish (sabljarka), greater amberjack (gof), Atlantic bonito (palamida), dolphin fish (lampuga), and blue shark (modrulj). The beauty of this sport is its unpredictable nature and the co-ordination of the whole crew on board the boat. If you would like to try your hand, your best bet is to contact one of the agencies listed below. Alternatively, if you visit the village of Jezera on the island of Murter, you can watch (or take part in) Europe’s largest big game fishing competition. Spearfishing is the most selective form of fishing. You can fish while free diving, snorkelling or scuba diving, and nowadays anglers use elastic-powered or compressed gas spearguns or slings to hunt the fish. Spearfishing can only take place during the daylight hours for obvious reasons, and the sport requires you to be both physically and psychologically fit due to both the diving skills required and the weapon used. In the Adriatic, the best spearfishing is to be had in late summer and early autumn. The best fish is to be found where the sea has a rocky bottom, providing shelter for the fish. The best-known spearfishing competition in the Adriatic is the New Year Spearfishing Cup held on the island of Mali Lošinj. Finally, don’t forget, whichever kind of fishing you go for, it’s important for your sake and everyone else’s that you keep within the law and fish in a responsible and ethical manner. We wish you calm seas and a plentiful catch!

Dubrovnik Charter, tel. (+385-) 091 419 14 50, www. biggamedubrovnik.com. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Summer 2011

MaIl & phones City codes Zagreb Split Šibenik Zadar Rijeka

01 021 022 023 051

GettInG around Postal rates

Public transport

Train

Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60 kn, Abroad 3.10 kn

The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 10kn from news kiosks (12kn from the driver) and must be cancelled in the ticket-stamping machines immediately on boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 17kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr

Amazing but true, the railway system does not serve Dubrovnik. Inter-railers may consider the Zagreb-Ploče train, travelling via Bosnia and Herzegovina and visiting towns such as Banja Luka, Mostar and Sarajevo. Normal people would probably prefer to avoid this 13-hour odyssey and travel to Split, then continue south by coach, especially since the Zagreb-Split fast train now takes less than six hours, or you can take the sleeper. Drivers can rest up and escape tourist traffic by loading their car on a night train at 22:55 (178kn-288kn) travelling to Split and then continuing south. However, since the Zagreb-Split motorway has reduced journey times to about 5 hours (traffic permitting), many people choose to drive or take the coach. A final touring option is the Ploče-Sarajevo-Osijek-Budapest route, which takes the best part of 17 hours.

Taxi

Long distance coaches

Internet places Hugo 1 B-2, Prijeko 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 69/

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where.Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. Central Post Office I-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+38520) 36 20 68. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Lapad G-2, Miljenka Bratoša 21, tel. (+385-20) 41 26 74. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Pile J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 2, tel. (+385-20) 41 12 65. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Stari grad B-2, Široka 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 27. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

(+385-) 091 211 11 66. Internet, playstation and PC games, burning photos, scanning and printing. Ring home for cheap too! (7kn/15min, half an hour 10kn and 20kn/1h.) QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Netcafe C-2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25, netcafe_dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.netcafe.hr. A sweet and bright little café in the Old Town. 10kn/15min surfing, plus print, copy, scan, fax, burn, connect your laptop. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PNB Snoopy I-2, Bana Jelačića 33, tel. (+385-20) 31 22 74, ravosium@du.t-com.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, 18:00 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. 30kn / hour.

Express mail

Road help tel. 1987

City Ex I-2, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 18 00/

(+385-) 0800 303 333, dubrovnik@cityex.hr, www. cityex.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N DHL L-2, Frana Supila 12 (Hotel Excelsior), tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Public telephone You can purchase phone cards (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk - they come in 15-100 units and cost 15, 30, 50 and 100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad.

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (020 if you’re calling Dubrovnik for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dail your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call 0800 09 70 otherwise you’ll find them on the following ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour, Ploče, Lapad. Last year’s prices were: no night supplements, 25kn start, 8kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item and 80kn per hour for waiting. 2011 prices were not finalized at the time of going to print.

Since there’s no train station in Dubrovnik, the long distance coach has long been the best way to travel to cities in Croatia and abroad. There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 44a, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70/ (+385-20) 31 32 75, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 05:30 - 22:30.

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Dubrovnik is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. T-Centar I-2, Starčevićeva 47, tel. (+385-) 0800 1550, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Tele 2 Centar H/I-2, Nikole Tesle 2 (TC Minčeta), tel. (+385-20) 35 65 89, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Vip Centar L-2, Frana Supila 5, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Summer 2011

shoppInG

GettInG around Parking Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica bb, K-2), wellplaced for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although with Pile lying a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 15kn/hr or 180kn/day. Text message parking Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for street parking! It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone you’re in. Send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times and prices.

Car rental Adria rent G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 70 66/(+385-) 098 34 49 64, adria.rent@du.t-com.hr, www.adriarent.hr. You can also rent a scooter. QOpen 18:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Avis - Budget H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1 (Port terminal), tel. (+385-20) 31 36 33/(+385-) 091 314 30 10, dubrovnik.dt@avis.com.hr, www.avis.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Dollar&Thrifty Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/(+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.dubrovnik@subrosa. hr, www.subrosa.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Hertz L-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/ (+385-) 091 425 00 01, dubrovnik.dt@hertz.hr, www. hertz.hr. Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Uni rent Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80/(+385-) 099 219 55 15, uni-rent@du.t-com.hr, www.uni-rent.com. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 14:00. A

Airport Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) Čilipi,

Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 33 33/(+385-20) 77 32 22, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr. The advent of well priced tickets for domestic flights means that most people in Dubrovnik get around the country by plane. There are a limited number of tickets selling for rock bottom prices - a single to Zagreb can cost as little as 330kn, but you must reserve your ticket well in advance - or strike it lucky - to get these. International flights are also becoming more affordable with the arrival of budget airlines such as Germanwings and Norwegian Air Shuttle. See the airline websites for reservations. Getting there: Catch a bus from the main coach station, tickets cost 35kn one way, or call a taxi (200 - 250kn). Check with your airline for the bus timetable. If you take your car there’s a long stay car park (40kn for the first 24 hours, and 2kn per hour thereafter).

Airline offices Croatia Airlines Zračna luka Dubrovnik, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 32 32, dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen 05:00 - 20:00. A Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Antiques

Ferry Azzuraline H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 2, tel. (+385-

20) 31 31 78/(+385-20) 31 36 66, port.office@elite. hr, www.azzurraline.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. G&V Line G-1, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, gv-line@gv-line.hr, www.gv-line.hr. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the Jadrolinija kiosk at least one hour before departure. The kiosk closes one hour before the boat sails. Jadrolinija I-2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue 08:00 22:00, Thu 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. Mediteranska plovidba Trg kralja Tomislava 2, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 11 56, info@medplov.hr, www.medplov. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Antiques Tezoro C-2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+38520) 32 35 23. Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik - jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware... Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Towed away If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot on Starčevićeva ulica (leads from Pile to Gruž). It’s open 24 hours. The bad news is you’ll have to pay a charge of 300kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 800kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English and accept payment by credit card.

Transfers Avantgarde Service H-1, Sv. Križa 3, tel. (+385-20) 41

74 99/(+385-) 098 925 23 93, info@dubrovnik-transferi. com, www.dubrovnik-transferi.com. Transport at its best! Whether you are on a business trip, sightseeing, or wish to do a tour, Avantgarde Services will accommodate all your needs. Choose from high quality limousines, a VIP van for delegations or taxi services at competitive rates, they have it all. From a one off trip to assisting in corporate events, everything can be catered for. Have your own chauffeur at your very doorstep and with the utmost professional service! QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.

Travel Agencies Dubrovnik Travel I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel.

(+385-20) 31 35 55, info@dubrovniktravel.hr, www. dubrovniktravel.hr. Excursions and cruises can be yours!

QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A Elite I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00, elite@

elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Everything from horseriding to sailing in a fabulous 16th century galleon. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Globtour C-2, Placa 17, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 12, globtour1@globdu.hr, www.globtour.hr. Visit their website to explore a world of possibilities, including a stay in your very own lighthouse! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Gulliver travel I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www.gulliver. hr. Also at F-2, Babin Kuk, Mali Stradun, tel. 091 603 51 23, Open 08:30 - 11:30, 18:30 - 21:00, Sun 18:30 - 21:00. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Vivado Šetalište M.Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 64 71/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. An agency in Mlini organising fish picnics to the islands. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

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Ethno boutique Mara opens at the entry to the Paško Miličević 4 Street (former Convent of Saint Claire). There, you can buy original Croatian souvenirs which have received many awards to date.

Art galleries Artur B-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/

(+385-) 098 28 53 98. A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during whole year so if you are interested you know what to do... QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. A Romana atelier C-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 484 49 46/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, info@romanamilutin.com, www.romana-milutin.com. Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A Sebastian D-2, Sv. Dominika 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 90, galerija.sebastian@gmail.com, www.sebastianart.net. An important gallery exhibiting works by leading Dubrovnik and Croatian artists. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. A Stradun B-2, Placa 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 78, cimic. art.gallery@du.t-com.hr. On Stradun (oddly enough), close to the Pile gate, this gallery is the result of the owner’s passion for art. Exclusively local and Croatian painters along with exquisite Croatian designer jewellery. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A Sv. Luka C-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 03/(+385-) 098 61 79 37, bkurilic@globalnet.hr. See works of Croatian artists inside a pre-Romanesque church dating back to the 9th century. Q June, September Open 10:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A Talir B-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93, info@talir-dubrovnik.hr, www.talir-dubrovnik.hr. Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale. Also at Antuninska 5 where there’s a nice café next door. QOpen 09:30 - 22:30. A

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Summer 2011

Shopping The World Centre of Croatian Naive Art (Svjetski centar hrvatske naivne umjetnosti) D-2, Sv.Dominika

4, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 65, www.cudo-hrvatske-naive. hr. Croatian naive art gallery. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A Workshop Be Craft L-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Accessories Art Go’Den G-2, Iva Dulčića 34 (Valamar Lacroma

Resort), tel. (+385-20) 43 50 22, www.artgoden.com. A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand. Your chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival! Also at Radisson Blue Resort&Spa. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00. A Croata D-3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 63 83 30, www.croata.hr. Ties and other clothing in rich and varied materials come together to make you look the pro. Find the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the invention of the tie. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 14:00. A

Cosmetics Drogerie Markt I-3, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-1)

Staša Čimbur, Female Tea Pot

English books & newspapers Algoritam C-2, Placa 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 44, www.

algoritam.hr. Books, magazines, newspapers, maps in many languages. Q June, September Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. A Tisak kiosk B-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-) 099 706 13 26. Lots of newspapers and magazines in different languages. Q June, September Open 07:00 - 24:00. July, August Open 00:00 - 24:00

Souvenirs Baboon I-2, Dr. Vlatka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/(+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo. com. Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Medusa B/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/ (+385-) 098 175 17 41, info@medusa.hr, www.medusa. hr. Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants. Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including olive oils, brandies, and sponges from the sponge-fishing island of Krapanj. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A Museum shop D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39. The Rector’s Palace is where guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A Ronchi D-3, Lučarica 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 99/ (+385-) 098 82 04 16, ronchi.dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.dubrovnik-online.com/ronchi. Need to wear a hat but don’t want to look like a chump? This is your place - a milliners established in 1858, still making superbly stylish hats using traditional methods. Q Open 09:30 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Tilda D-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54. Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

362 60 87, www.dm-drogeriemarkt.hr. The place to pick up anything from shampoo to mascara. Also at Doc shopping centre at Lapad. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Kozmo B-2, Široka 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 70, kozmo@ kozmo.com.hr, w w w.kozmo.com. Croatian chain of drugstores. Get all your beach essentials here! Q June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. A

Delicatessen Dubrovačka kuća D-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20)

32 20 92, ars.longa@du.t-com.hr. A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A Franja coffee & teahouse C-3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+38520) 32 48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja.hr. A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. A Kraš C-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www. kras.hr. The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits. QOpen 08:00 23:00. A Vinoteka Miličić C-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77. Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. A

Ana Kolega, Pogledaj one oblake zašto šutiš

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

shoppInG Designer Clothing Maria D-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13

30, info@maria-dubrovnik.hr, www.maria-dubrovnik. hr. If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney shoes and Miu Miu handbag, then Maria is the place to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous just looking through the window. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Max Mara D-3, Gundulićeva poljana 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 16, maxmara.du@masmoda.hr. Sharp lines, muted colours, plush fabrics... Max Mara hits Dubrovnik! Can’t miss either way. Q June, September Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. A Modni kantun D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41. A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Y

Jewellery Križek C-2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27,

Tax free heaven Save money when you buy souvenirs and other stuff to take back home. Look for the “Tax Free” label on shop windows, or ask at the counter. When you buy goods totalling 500kn or more, they’ll give you a form. Get it stamped when you leave the country, and you’re entitled to a tax refund – follow the instructions on the form.

www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Trinity C-2, Palmotićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 50/ (+385-) 098 45 18 40, www.trinity.hr. Experience the exclusive jewellery designs of Max Škledar whose unique works can be found in prestigious Beverly Hill boutiques not to mention numerous other galleries across the world. Škledar is a designer who tries to preserve the original shape of his materials with his craftsmanship, thus maintaining their original beauty. It’s contemporary, it’s dynamic and it’s absolutely worth a visit. Q June, September Open 10:00 21:00. July, August Open 10:00 - 22:00. A

Duty Free Shop Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle. One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at other similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.

Fun for the whole family dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Photo by Marin Šperanda

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

busIness dIreCtory

lIFestyle dIreCtory Call the experts Ana’s Studio K-3, U Pilama 5, tel. (+385-20) 41 65

15, gigidbk@yahoo.com. Cosmetic treatments, nail art, hair cuts, body painting. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N Beautyline K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 1, tel. (+38520) 42 30 81, kozmetickisalon.beautyline@gmail.com. Beauty centre. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Mišić C-3, Bunićeva poljana 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 55. Key cut. Q Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zrinka H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 62 32, salon2@frizerzrinka.com, www.frizerzrinka.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

Culture Centres Art Workshop Lazareti D-4, Frana Supila 8, tel.

(+385-20) 32 46 33/(+385-) 091 186 12 50, www.arl. hr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. L’Alliance Francaise J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 63 53/(+385-) 092 285 76 84, afd@ caas.unizg.hr, www.afd.hr. Q Open 18:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Dry cleaners & Laundries

Banks & Exchanges Erste&Steiermarkische Bank I-2, Vukovarska 26,

tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 85/(+385-) 0800 78 90 free info, www.erstebank.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo-alpe-adria bank I-2, Vukovarska 15, tel. (+38520) 32 24 44, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Also at I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 26a, tel. 43 19 02. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. OTP banka I-2, Vukovarska 19, tel. (+385-) 062 20 12 00, www.otpbanka.hr. Also at Placa 16 - Stradun, tel. 062 20 13 17. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Privredna banka I-2, Obala S.Radića 8, tel. (+385-20) 72 01 00, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Raiffeisen bank I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 44 18 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 12:30. Closed Sun.

Real estate Alavija nekretnine I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 29, tel. (+385-20) 42 32 92/(+385-) 098 20 30 82, 098 28 82 54, info@alavija-nekretnine.hr, www. dubrovnik-properties.info. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pro Krečak J-4, Put Republike 12, tel. (+385-20) 43 66 02, pro-krecak@du.t-com.hr, www.nekretnineprokrecak.com. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Volksbank I-2, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 35 89 00, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00

- 12:00. Closed Sun.

Zagrebačka banka I-2, Vukovarska 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 25 07, www.zaba.hr. Also at Gundulićeva Poljana bb, tel. 32 25 52, Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Amo Wash & Dry I-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33 33 47/(+385-) 098 964 49 20. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Elegant I-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-) 098 42 86 71/(+385-) 098 915 99 22. Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N Sanja & Rosie’s Laundrette Put od Bosanke 2, tel. (+385-) 099 254 69 59, info@dubrovniklaundry.com, www.dubrovniklaundry.com. Self-service laundromat. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. 50kn wash up to 9kg. Sunce I-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. (+385-20) 41 25 18. Laundry QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. N

Business Connections

In case of emergency you can call the EU-wide emergency number 112 or the emergency services as below: Police 192 Fire department 93 Ambulance 94 Coast guard 9155

Hospital General Hospital H-3, Roka Mišetica 2, tel. (+385-20) 431 777, uprava@bolnica-du.hr, www.bolnica-du.hr.

Marinas ACI Marina Dubrovnik Na Skali 2, Komolac, tel. (+38520) 45 50 20, m.dubrovnik@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club. hr. 450 berths, 110 places on land. Two restaurants, souvenir shop, supermarket, mechanic, swimming pool, showers. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A ACI Marina Korčula Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 16 61, m.korcula@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. 144 berths, 16 on land. Restaurant, hairdresser, mechanic. Staff speak foreign languages. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30. A Luka Porat - Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 86 40, dpa.gruz@portdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A

Pets Bobanović I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 33, tel. (+385-20) 35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.t-com. hr. Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24 39 38. Q Open 08:30 -12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Fauna I-2, Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.a-fauna@ du.t-com.hr. Veterinary clinic. For emergency call 098 191 26 94. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Pharmacies

American College of Managemet and Technology

Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy. Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 90. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kod male braće B-2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 11. QOpen 07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kod zvonika C-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Lapad G/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67 78. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 30 00, american.college@acmt.hr, www.acmt.hr.

Croatian Chamber of Economy - Dubrovnik County Chamber I-3, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 99, hgkdu@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Consulates Belgium H-2/3, Antuna Barca 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 81 77, sabine@terranautika.hr.QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark Bana J.Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 33 35, dkconsulate.du@gmail.com.QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy I-3, Leichtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Hotel), tel. (+385-) 098 941 46 54, consolatoitaliano@net.hr. Q Open by arrangement. Spain K-2, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 503 80 57. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands H-2, Od Sv. Mihajla 1, tel. (+385-20) 35 61 41, ajerkovic@atlant.hr. QOpen , Tue, Fri 10:00 - 12:00. UK I-2, Vukovarska 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 97, honcons.dubrovnik@inet.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun.

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Emergency number 112

Police station Coast guard I-2, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-

20) 44 35 55, www.dubrovacko-neretvanska.policija.hr.

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Police station I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 13, tel. (+385-

20) 44 37 77/(+385-20) 44 70 00, www.mup.hr.

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Traffic police Vladimira Nazora 32, tel. (+385-20) 44 36 66/(+385-20) 44 36 39. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

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Summer 2011

dubrovnik neretva county Mljet A breeze brushing through pine boughs ... the flapping of a sail out in the channel, heard from high on a seaside ridge ... the bray of a donkey. Silence. Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands. This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be. Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover. Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960. The ancient Greeks who settled here left the first record of the place, calling it Melissa or Melitta, (meaning, bee; honey) because of the many bees that made their home there. Greek settlers became familiar with this island whilst colonising nearby Vis (Issa), Hvar (Pharos) and Korčula (Korkiru). The Illyrians settled the entire island in the 2nd Century BC, leaving graves and traces of military fortifications and settlements in seven places, on hills near water sources. The

best preserved sites are located on Veliki Gradac hill above the Veliko Jezero, and the fort of Vodica near Babino Polje. The Romans followed, their era lasting from the 2nd Century BC - 7th century AD. After Octavian wiped out the Illyrians in 35 BC, the Romans built their own settlements on the western side of the island. Evidence of their domain is most notable in Polače, where they built a palace. Other Roman ruins are located in Pomena, Žara and Pinjevci. The Croatian-Slavic nobility settled along the entire Adriatic coast around the end of the 8th and the start of the 9th Century. During this period of weakened Byzantine influence in the region, Croatians descended from the Neretva Valley and some settled on Mljet. The Romans, however, remained on the western end of the island for about another 300 years, until they were defeated in a battle on the mountain Bijeđ, between Blato and Polače. Evidence of this battle, including mass graves and remnants of bones, spears, swords and arrows, was discovered in 1938. In 1151, Prince Deša of Zahumlje donated the entire island of Mljet to the Benedictine Abbey of St Mary of Pulsano from Apulia. The arrival saw the construction of a church and grand monastery of the benedictines (1177-1198) on the islet in Veliko Jezero. Ragusa (later called Dubrovnik), acquired the Pelješac Peninsula in 1333, leaving Mljet isolated for a time. This changed in 1410, however, when Ragusa, now independent of Venice, annexed Mljet. Ragusa held the island until the dissolution of the Republic under Napoleon in 1808.

Getting there and around Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry and a catamaran provided by Jadrolinija ferries and G&V Line. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is the port closest to Mljet’s famous National Park, and has daily connections to Dubrovnik. Sobra has more connections, to Dubrovnik and the surrounding islands, as well as Rijeka and Split. Sobra is best used to reach Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours for sailors include Pomena (watch out for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake. If you are coming without a car be aware that there are only 2 bus lines during the day but you can always rent a car, scooter or a boat. Where to stay Mljet has just one hotel (Hotel Odisej, Pomena b.b., www. hotelodisej.hr ) but with two campgrounds and a plethora of private rooms and apar tments, there is enough accommodation to triple the island’s population during the summer. For information about private accommodation, you can contact the island’s tourist offices at the Sobra ferry port and in Polače. What to See Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, 74 40 58, npmljet@np-mljet.hr, turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet. hr. Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small

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Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic. The lakes, 145-hectare Veliko Jezero and 24-hectare Malo Jezero, are the park’s dominant features. Thirty-metre-long channels link the two lakes and provide an outlet from Veliko Jezero to the sea. The current in the channels, swift enough to power mills during the Middle Ages, switches direction every six hours. On foot or by pedal you can enjoy a 9-kilometer path circumnavigating the lakes, and other paths wind up and over the hills. It’s Ok to swim or paddle in the lake, but scuba diving and motor boats are not permitted. The usual national park rules apply: Don’t pick the flowers, steal the artifacts, fish without a special permit, nor litter, and most of all, don’t start fires. Mjet is one of the most verdant of Croatia’s islands because it wasn’t heavily logged or used for farming or herding. Nevertheless, a 1917 fire took out many of the deciduous forests. Tickets to the park cost 40 - 90kn and can be purchased at booths in Polače, Pomena (Open 08:00 - 20:00), at the ferryport and at the Hotel Odisej. Admission includes the ferry to St Mary Island in the middle of Veliko Jezero, where you will find the Benedictine monastery and a restaurant. Your ticket to the Mljet National Park is valid throughout your stay on the island. Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. For a time, the monastery was the island’s governmental center. Benedictines, members of a monastic order who live in autonomous communities dedicated to work, prayer and peace, came to Mljet from M on te G a r ga n o, Italy in the 12th Century to establish a monastery and build a Romanesque church dedicated to St Mary, which they completed in 1198. In the process the Benedictines became the island’s feudal lords, but they are credited with developing literacy, culture and ar t. The Church of St Mary was repeatedly modified over the centuries, acquiring by the 13th Century decorative reliefs of saints and a typical Roman esq u e b ell tower. Renaissance features such as the Gundulić coat of arms over the church portal, defensive towers and walls, the twostorey structure of the monastery and Baroque side chapels were added during the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1809, during the rule of Napoleon, the monastery was abandoned and the Austrian Forestry Office for Mljet used the buildings for offices until 1941. In 1960 it was renovated into a lovely N

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hotel but given back to the bishopric in 1997, just under 800 years from the church’s inauguration. The church has been reconsecrated, but other than a restaurant in the monastery cellars, the buildings are unoccupied. The island is small but offers a pleasant walk past two chapels. You can close your eyes for a moment and imagine the monks carefully pruning, weeding, and feeding in the gardens, w h i c h a r e n o w fa i r l y overgrown. Polače Th e villa ge is named for the ruin of a significant Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high - built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road to Pomena slips right between its high walls. Archaeologists have also discovered two 5th Century basilicas) west of the palace, baths, an arsenal and shipyards. The palace’s economy included salt production, olive oil, wine, honey, meat, cheese and fish. A paved route from the palace will take you up the hill. When you reach the road, bear right and continue straight to Mali Gradac, site of an Illyrian fort. A posted turnoff on the way will take you to Montokuc, the highest peak in the park, which grants breathtaking views over the lakes and the Adriatic. Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village, built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living among charming thick forests and working in agriculture, fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the hotel’s amenities. Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian). Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation. Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a number of private rentals here, too. Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill on the island. There are also a high per-capita number of churches: St Pancratius, St Andrew, St Michael, St George,

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(Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.

St Blaise, St Salvation, St Paul, St Joseph and Our Lady of Mercy. The three oldest are the pre-Romanesque churches of St Andrew, St Michael and St Pancratius, which was built in the 11th Century. You can reach the church, and neighbouring St Blaise, by way of an unmarked turnoff below the town. When you turn in, the road immediately forks; take the sharp right, which bends again to head straight into the valley. On the left among the olive trees you’ll pass the single-storey Renaissance manor of the Ragusan governor of the island. Clustered around the village cemetery are St Pancratius, the 15th Century Gothic parish church of St Blaise, and the sotnica, a Renaissance-era government building in whose courtyard the governor sometimes issued judgments. Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing getaway. Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco. The Church of the Holy Trinity has characteristics similar to those of Dubrovnik’s Gothic chapels, plus a remarkable 15th Century Romanesque bronze crucifix. The church most likely was built in 1477 by the Benedictines from Lokrum, who were bequeathed the estate in Prožura. The crucifix includes figured representations of St Blaise (the patron saint of Dubrovnik), St Martin (the patron saint of the poor) and St Nicholas (the patron saint of sailors and fishermen). Benedictines lived and worked in a small monastery near the church. It’s partly ruined now; along with the tower, it has been adapted for reuse as a stable and storage.

Kozarica Polje Slatina Svinjac

Polače

Mljet Tourist Board, Polače office

Goveđari bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 41 86, tz-mjesta@du.t-com.hr, www. mljet.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:30 -19:30, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. Mljet Tourist Board, Sobra office Sobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, tz.mljet@du.t-com. hr, www.mljet.hr. Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

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Sršenovići Zadublje Sv. Andrija Pajac Hajdići Andričević B a b i n o P o l j e Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Vlaho Karaula Odisejeva spilja Sv. Ivan

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The Church of St Martin and village graveyard is situated on a bluff overlooking the village on one side and the island road and Pelješac on the other. A plaque on the 14th Century porch thanks Jolanda Vecchietta, a teacher who came to the island during the Italian occupation in World War II, taught in the local school and fell in love with the island. After the war she returned to Italy but later paid for the 1998 renovations to the church. St Martin’s day is celebrated on November 11 with a mass in the church. The newer Church of St Rocco is situated on another small hill above the village. Costumed celebrations of St Rocco (who was believed to have saved the village from the plague), take place on August 16 every year. Prožura was the birthplace of Pavao Gracić, a well known bishop of Ston from 1635 to 1652. Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older church and features Gothic architectural elements. Maranovići, like every other place on the island, has its own port, Okuklje, which is very attractive for sailors/sailboats. Other harbours popular with yachties are Pomena, Polače, and Prožura . In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches. A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,” that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that are used to capture rainwater. Southeast of Korita are the sandy beaches of Saplunara and Blace, more than 1 km long. A little further is the place where, according to legend, St. Paul was shipwrecked while on his way to Rome, and while he was here a poisonous snake bit him. In 1910, specimens of Mongoose were brought to Mljet from Australia to help rid the island of its snake population.

Odysseus‘s Cave

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Brak Duboka

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Summer 2011

dubrovnIk neretva County Korčula Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel. Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this - the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll. All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries. One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness from time to time during the summer months, heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance. With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season. But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.

Tourist information Korčula City Museum Trg Sv. Marka,

tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, gm-korcula@ du.t-com.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Admission 15kn. Korčula Tourist Board Obala F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 58 67, www.visitkorcula.net. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Lastovo Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours. Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise. Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life. Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s

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Lastovo Carnival chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers. With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here. Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

Tourist information Lastovo Tourist Board Pjevor bb, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, www.lastovo.hr.

The Elafiti Islands - Koločep, Lopud and Šipan These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing! Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin.

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dubrovnIk neretva County Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part. Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants. Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

Konavle The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce real estate agents to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom. The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal.

Agritourism Konoba Vinica - Monković family Pridvorje, Ljuta,

tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/(+385-) 098 34 54 59, monkovic@konobavinica.com, www.konobavinica. com. Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat. If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run the place may show you their collection of folk costumes as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home made rakija would go down a treat too… QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 110kn). PALB

The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical chimneys. Molunat, th e largest coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pret t y cove. The Prevlaka peninsula is the southernmost point of Croatia and there’s now a Nature Park here, from which you have views over the Gulf of Kotor in Montenegro, with wild mountain ranges behind. Konavle by Marin Šperanda Prevlaka was until recently a military zone, so don’t be surprised to come across barracks now used as a realistic venue for paintball games. Military enthusiasts will also be interested to see the islet which used to be an Italian prison in WWII. There is a strange Cyrillic-inscribed monument within the Park, apparently containing the bones of prisoners who died of hunger. More cheerfully, there’s also a petting zoo, an excellent climbing wall, mountain bikes are for hire and you can feast on grilled meat and have a dip.

Cavtat The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all - this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a handful of rather lovely small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep. A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house (Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kn), where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

Tourist information Konavle district Tourist Board Zidine Photo by Eugen Miljan

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

dubrovnIk neretva County

6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.tzcavtat-konavle.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

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Neretva If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva. It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California. As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here. The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge! More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

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Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

Tourist information Tourist Inf ormation Centr e of

Metković Tourist Board Stjepana Radića 1, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 10 20, www.neretva.info. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Pelješac Peninsula The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country. Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.

Summer 2011

dubrovnIk neretva County The Walls of Ston

14.09 - 18.09 Kinookus - The Gastronomic Film Festival The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable. On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet ideal for island hopping. The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough.

In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few man-made sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside. The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas. Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall - although we didn’t bother investigating any further.

Tourist information Or ebić Tourist Boar d Zrinsko

Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, tz-orebic@tz-orebic.hr, www. tz-orebic.com. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Ston Tourist Board Pelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@du.t-com. hr, www.ston.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00.

Trsteno If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

dubrovnIk neretva County East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy. The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature. The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

Župa Dubrovačka The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question. These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better. We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches. Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket. Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade.

Tourist information Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates - don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

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Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board

Šetalište dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 62 54, tzzupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.hr, www. dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

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Summer 2011

street reGIster

A. Barca H-2,3 A. Bošković J-2,3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H-2/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2

Brsalje Brsečinska Bunićeva poljana Buža Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F. Kolumbića F. Prešerna F. Supila Ferićeva Flore Jakšić

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G. Rajčevića Garište Getaldićeva Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta

I-2,3 B-2 B-2 H-3/I-3 I,J,K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2/I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G,H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3

Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G,H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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Summer 2011

street reGIster Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina Lučarica Luka Dubrovnik Luke Sorkočevića Ljubuška M. Blažića M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca M. Hamzića M. Jarnovića M. Mrnarevića M. Vodopića Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marina Držića Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put Metohijska

H,I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2 D-3 H-1 G-2 H-1 K-3 K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2 I-2 G-2 I-2 G,H-2 G-3 G-3 D-3 H-2 C-3 F, G-3 I-1

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Miha Pracata Minčeta Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono N. Ljubičića N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Nalješkovićeva Napice Neumska Nikole Božidarevića Nikole Gučetića Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obala S. Radića Obodska Obuljenska Od Batale Od borova

C-2 B/C-1 H,I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 B,C-3 C-3 H,I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2 H-2 H-2

street reGIster Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani

J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1,2/J-2 I,J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C,B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3 K-3 G-2 K-2

P. Čingrije I-3 P. Krešimira IV L-2 P. Preradovića H-2 Padre Perice I-1 Palmotićeva C-2 Paska Baburice H-2 Pećarica C-3 Peline C-1 Pelješka K-2 Pera Bakića J-2 Petilovrijenci C-2 Petra Svačića G-2 Pile J,K-3 Pionirska H-1 Placa C,D-2 Placa – Stradun C-2 Platska J-3 Ploče L-2 Plovani skalini C-1 Pobijana D-4 Pobreška H-1 Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4 Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Pomoraca H-1

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Pomorski muzej Porat Porporela Posat Postranjska Pred Dvorom Prelazna Pridvorska Prijeko Primorska Privežna Puljizeva Put od Bosanke Restićeva Revelin Riječka Ribarnica Roka Mišetića S.S. Kranjčevića Savska Sinjska Slanska Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska

E-4 E-3 E-3,4 E-2 I-2 D-3 B-3 J-2 B-2,3/C-2 G-2 J-2 B-3 L-2 D-4 E-1 G-1 D-2 H-3 I-2 G-3 I-2 G-2 I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2

Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sunčana Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Đurđa Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Križa Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije Sv.Dominika Sv. Josipa Sv.Nikole

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K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2/K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3 D-2 B-3 H-1

Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G,H-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Šibenska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Šipčine I-2 Široka C-2 Tivatska J-2 Tmušasta C-3 Topolska I-2 Trg oružja E-2 Trnovička I-2 Trpanjska G-1 Trstenska G-2 U pilama K-3 Udarnička I-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Uz Giman H-2 Uz Glavicu H-2 Uz Jezuite C-3,4 Uz mline K-2 Uz posat B-1 Uz tabor K-2 Vladimira Nazora J-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2

Velebitska Velika Petka Vetranićeva Vicina Viška Vlaha Paljetka Vukovarska Za kapelicom Za Kamenom Za Rokom Za rupama Zadarska Zagrebačka Zamanjina Zatonska Zlatarićeva Zlatarska Zrinsko-Frankopanska Zvijezdićeva Željezničarska Žudioska Žuljanska Župska

69 G-2 G-3 C-2 K-2 I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 E-4 B-3 B-3 G-2 J,K-2 C-2 G-2 B-2 D-2 K-2,3 B-3,4 H-1 D-2 I-2 L-2

Summer 2011

Index

Adio Mare 26 Adriatic 18 Ankora 26 Aquarius 18 Argosy 18 Atlas club Nautica 24 Baracuda 27 Bellevue 15 Berkeley 18 Bistro Dubrava 22 Bota Šare 26 Buffet Škola 24 Bukovac House 34 Cantina Mexicana Chihuahua 24 Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of Sigurata Convent 35 Church of St Saviour 35 Croatia 20 Dominican Monastery 32 Domino Steak House 24 Dubravka 22 Dubrovnik Cable Car 34 Dubrovnik Natural History Museum 34 Dubrovnik Palace 15 Dubrovnik President 16 Dubrovnik Youth Hostel 19 Đurovića Cave 34 Eastwest Beach Club Restaurant 24 Ethnographic Museum Rupe 34 Excelsior 15 Fresh Sheets 19 Galeta 22 Galija 26 Gil’s 24

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Grand Villa Argentina 15 Gundulić Square 36 Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik 16 Hotel Glavović 20 Importanne Resort 16 Indijan 20 Kamenice 28 Kapetanova kuća 26 Karaka 22 Kazbek 16 Klas 22 Komin 23 Komodor 18 Kompas 18 Konavoski dvori 26 Konavoski komin 26 Konoba Marinero 26 Korčula 20 Lapad 18 Lero 18 Leut 26 Lokanda Peskarija 24 Lokrum Island 32 Maestoso 23 Maritime Museum 34 Mea Culpa 28 Mimoza 23 Modern History Museum 34 More 16 Mrvica 24 Niko 24 Nishta 28 Obala 27 Odisej 20 Oliva 28 Onofrio’s Fountains - Great and Small 36

Orhan 23 Orlando’s Column 36 Orsan Gverović 27 Ostrea 20 Pergola 28 Petka 18 Pjat 27 Pjatanca 24 Plat Hotels and Villas 20 Poklisar 24 Proto 28 Pupo 24 Radisson Blue Resort & Spa 20 Renaissance 26 Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik 16 Rozario Church and Confraternity 35 Rusica 22 Rustico 24 Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons 35 Sesame 26 Šipan 20 Spaghetteria Toni 24 Splendid 18 St Ignatius’ Church 35 St Katherine’s Convent 36 St Nicholas’ Church 36 St Sebastian’s Church 36 Stari grad 18 Stradun, Placa 32 Supetar 20 Taj Mahal 24 Taverna Maslina 26 Taverna Nostromo 23 Teatar 23 The Aquarium 36

The Archeological Museum 34 The Birthplace of Marin Držić 34 The Cathedral 36 The Church of St Blaise 33 The City Belltower 36 The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre 37 The City Harbour 37 The City Walls, Bastions and Gates Pile & Ploče 33 The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy 33 The Lazaret 37 The Pucić Palace 16 The Rector’s Palace 33 The Synagogue and Jewish Museum 35 Tirena 18 Toranj 27 Triton 27 Uvala 18 Valamar Club Dubrovnik 19 Vapor 26 Vila Koruna 20 Vila Micika 19 Villa Neretva 27 Villa Vilina 20 Villas Koločep 20 Vis 19 Wanda 26 YC Orsan 28 Zlatno zrno 22 Zoe 23 Zure 27

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