Zagreb In Your Pocket No70 by In Your Pocket City Guides

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ZAGREB February - April 2013

The grass is always greener during Easter Picnics, traditions, delicacies... NÂ°70 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Stepping into nature

Nature walks and mountain hiking on Mount Medvednica and Samoborsko gorje

Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Zagreb

Your first view of the capital city

The Basics

More than just climate stats (not much)

History

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Easter in Croatia

Picnic, tradition, festivals...

Culture & Events

Interesting and boring stuff included

Where to stay

A place to rest your weary head

Dining & Nightlife

Maja Mačković - Something to tickle your tastebuds... See page 10

What to see

All those things you mustn’t miss

Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome Cafés 28 Mail & Phones Easily the best scene in the world! Smoke signals and carrier pigeons 35 Nightlife 29 Getting around 36 When you just gotta boogie Save on shoe leather

Shopping 38 Helping you get rid of that extra cash Take a Hike 41 With a Knapsack on My Back? Leisure Fitness or Massage

Directory

Lifestyle Directory The most essential support Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time

Maps & Index

Stream beside the Mountain Mirror - Hiking around Zagreb See page 41

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Street index City map City centre map Transport map Country map

46 47 48 50 51 February - April 2013

Foreword Ding! Ding! As the snow begins to melt and the cold jitters ease, our latest edition has the latest ‘Spring into action’ info so you’ll be scribbling your calendar with events galore. Do take a peek at our Easter special with the traditional meals that spread wild aromas across town besides the Easter bunny scattering eggs for his egg hunt. We move on into higher altitudes with a special on Mount Medvednica and Samoborsko gorje, two perfect getaways that are a short distance from the city centre and ultra perfect for hiking, bushwalking, and catching the first rays at sunrise. When back in town, choose from the maestro Picasso Exhibition, mega star Beyoncé performing live, concerts by Jessie Ware and Arturo Sandoval, the Zagrebdox festival and more… Spring is definitely here, so head on out for some merry cheer!

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja Published 6 times per year

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It‘s almost 21 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Oristano, on the Italian island of Sardinia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).

Editorial

Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedic Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Researcher/Public relations Anita Piplović Researcher Blanka Valić Layout & Design Gordan Karabogdan, Krešimir Šporčić Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Višnja Arambašić Cover: Saša Žic, Hands Up. One of the participants of the photo competition.

Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Sales & Circulation Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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CROATIA

c i t y os fe e cl ius t elnt uf ere le

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD

TEL: +385 1 481 40 51

www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

Arriving in zagreb Tourist information

Tourist Information Centre C-2,

Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station and at the Main Train Station. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00 Zagreb County Tourist Board C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Northern Velebit National Park Info Corner C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, www.np-sjeverni-velebit. hr. Are you seeking information, catalogues or direct internet connection to the North Velebit National Park's official website? Then whilst in town, head to the Plitivice National Park's Office located on Zrinjevac for all the answers to your questions. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Plitvice Lakes National Park branch office C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 19, tel. (+385-1) 461 35 86/ (+385-1) 492 22 74, np.zg.info@np-plitvicka-jezera. hr, www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

By bus Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn't as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.) and chapel. Above the main entrance hall which is bustled with cashiers is an Internet cafe that's open 24hrs (tel. 613 37 46). Surfing the net costs 18kn per hour and it has a wireless connection for laptop users. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you'll be paying

National holidays January 1 January 6 March 31 April 1 May 1 May 30 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

Zagreb In Your Pocket

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60 - 80kn to get to the centre.

By plane Pleso International Airport (Zračna luka Pleso) is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities. The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - 21:00) and ATM. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/ person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Pleso Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. For more information about the prices of taxi services, flick to our Getting Around section. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.

By train Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb's train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not as userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50kn.

Street smarts ulica stube put prolaz trg most avenija cesta

street staircase way passage square bridge avenue road

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Arriving in zagreb Basics Customs

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Zagreb (April 2011): 792,875 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

100

-10 -20

F M A M J

S O N D

Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 65kn 10 eggs 15kn McDonald‘s Big Mac 17,50kn Loaf of white bread 7kn Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 5kn 20 Marlboros 22kn Public transport ticket 12kn Pizza slice 12kn Cinema ticket 30kn Esspreso 10kn Litre of petrol (lead free) 10,79kn Litre of petrol (diesel) 9,96kn Postcard 3kn Kremšnita Cake 10kn

€8,85 €1,99 €2,37 €0,95 €0,68 €2,99 €1,59 €1,37 €4,14 €1,37 €1,43 €1,32 €0,41 €1,37

Exchange rates (as of 19. 02 2013): US$1 = 5,5kn €1 =7,5kn £1 = 8,6kn

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export; however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture and for the city of Zagreb, the City Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments and Nature at Kuševićeva 2 (B-1, Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:30. Tel. 01 610 19 70, www.zagreb.hr) For further details www.carina.hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Religion

These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms. Having al ways existed on the frontiers of three religions; Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the population has be come overwhelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome.

Roads

If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Visas

Citizens from Australasia, EU, North America and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa for a period of 90 days within a period of 6 months. If you want to extend your visa, you need to get an approval entitled First Temporary Stay at your nearest embassy or consulate. Everybody else needs a visa, which must be obtained before entering the republic. These cannot be obtained at any land borders. For more visa information contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at Trg N.Š. Zrinskog 7-8, tel. 456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www.mvp.hr. You are required to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to fill-out some paperwork at the police station (Petrinjska 30) - be sure to bring your passport!

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February - April 2013

HISTORY

ZGH Archives

7th Century Migrating Slav tribes – including Slovenes, Croats and Serbs – settle in South-Eastern Europe. 9th Century - 11th Century A powerful Croatian state emerges under kings Tomislav, Petar Krešimir IV and Zvonimir. 1091 The last Croatian king dies childless. King Ladislav I of Hungary claims the Croatian throne. 1094 King Ladislav founds a bishopric at Zagreb, previously a small settlement of craftsmen and traders. Zagreb is initially divided into two settlements: Kaptol (inhabited by the bishop, monks and nuns), and Gradec (where the secular townsfolk live) 1242 Ravaged by the Tatars, Zagreb is re-founded by King Bela IV. 1526 The Hungaro-Croatian kingdom is rent asunder by the Ottoman Turks, and Zagreb becomes part of the Habsburg Empire. 1667 The last of the great mass brawls between the inhabitants of Gradec and Kaptol takes place. Henceforth Zagreb becomes a much more united city. 1835 Patriotic intellectuals led by Ljudevit Gaj launch Danica, a periodical which aims to promote wider use of the Croatian language. 1848 Revolution breaks out throughout the Habsburg Empire. The Croats hold elections to a national assembly and appoint Count Josip Jelačić as their “Ban” or Viceroy. Ban Jelačić helps the Austrian Habsburgs defeat the Hungarians, but Croatian loyalty to the crown is not rewarded with extra autonomy. 1880 Zagreb Cath edral is severel y damaged by an earthquake, leading to its re-construction in fine Neo-Gothic style by Hermann Bollé. 1918 The Habsburg Empire finds itself on the losing side of World War I and begins to fragment. Slovenes and Croats declare independence and then form a union with neighbouring Serbia, creating the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later re-named “Yugoslavia”). 1921 A Serb-dominated parliament creates a centrist constitution, dashing Croatian hopes for autonomous status within the new state. Serb-Croat arguments about the nature of Yugoslavia set the tone for the next seven decades. 1936 Cementing Zagreb’s role as a centre of trade and technology, the modernist pavilions of the Zagreb Trade Fair are built on Savska cesta. They currently serve as the Student Cultural Centre. 1941 - 45 Nazi Germany occupies Croatia, placing the puppet regime of Ante Pavelić in power. An anti-fascist struggle led by Tito’s communist partisans takes hold of the countryside. 1945 Croatia becomes a republic within a communistcontrolled federal Yugoslavia.

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1953 Zagreb’s Trade Fair moves to a new site south of the River Sava. It is the first step in the construction of Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), the socialist-inspired grid of concrete apartment blocks where over 110,000 people now live. 1961 Dušan Vukotić wins an Oscar for Best Animated Film, sealing Zagreb’s reputation as a major centre of cartoon production. 1967 Dinamo Zagreb win soccer’s European Fairs’ Cup, beating the mighty Leeds United in a two-leg final. 1967 Croatian TV screens the first episode of Professor Balthazar, one of the most psychedelic kiddies’ cartoon adventures ever made. 1971 Zagreb is at the centre of the so-called Croatian Spring, a popular movement for greater cultural freedom and political autonomy. Spring turns to winter when Tito clamps down on the movement, ushering in a decade of political stagnation. 1977 Croatia’s first-ever punk concert takes place, with Slovene band Pankrti playing in Zagreb’s Student Centre. The New-Wave scene flourishes, transforming the city’s cultural profile. 1980 President Tito dies. A slow process of political disintegration sets in. 1985 Zagreb team Cibona win the Euroleague, European basketball’s most prestigious trophy. 1987 Zagreb hosts the Univerzijada or World Student Games. The city centre is thoroughly renovated and sports facilities are built throughout the city. 1990 Croatia holds its first free elections. The statue of nineteenth-century national leader Ban Jelačić, dismantled by the communists after 1945, returns to Zagreb’s main square. 1991 - 1995 Serbian insurgents supported by the Yugoslav army take over 30% of Croatia’s territory. Zagreb itself is only 30km from the front line. 1995 Croatian military victories bring the war to a close. 2003 The first Zagreb Film Festival is held. It quickly grows to become a major international event. 2005 Zagreb’s Mount Sljeme becomes a regular venue for World Cup skiing races, henceforth held every year in January. 2009 Croatia joins the NATO alliance. 2009 A long-running border dispute between Croatia and Slovenia nears resolution, improving Croatia’s prospects for swift EU accession. 2009 Zagreb’s new Museum of Contemporary Art opens its doors for the first time, placing the Croatian capital firmly on European culture trail. 2010 The third Croatian President Ivo Josipović was elected. 2011 The Kukuriku Coalition (SDP, HNS, IDS, HSU) won the parliament elections held in December.

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EASTER IN CROATIA The Croatian word for Easter, Uskrs, means “resurrection”, and here, as in most Catholic countries, it's a holiday whose importance closely rivals Christmas. Holy Week starts one week before Easter Sunday with C vjetna N edjelja (Flower Sunday), when people take decorative twigs to church to be blessed, to protect their homes for the coming year. The following week consists of cleaning and decorating the home to symbolise the rebirth of spring, and preparing traditional cakes and breads. On Holy Thursday, church bells are tied up for three days in respect of the Last Supper. At this time, one may not plough, sow or chop wood. Both the earth and our bodies must be allowed to rest and regenerate. Good Friday is not treated as a public holiday here. On Easter Saturday, you are most likely to find people colouring and decorating eggs in traditional style. There are many other traditions for this day, one example being burning wood in front of the church and carrying home the ash. On Easter Sunday, those of a churchgoing persuasion will take traditional Easter food to be blessed, usually bread, ham, decorated eggs, spring onions, horseradish, salt and cake. Usually these are carried in a wicker basket covered with an embroidered cloth. Then it's time to spend the rest of the day at home eating: this is considered a family celebration.

Easter egg (Photo by Rocco Zorić)

A Perfect Easter Picnic

Hooray hooray, Spring is here! The grass is green, the lambs are a’bleating, the bunnies a’bouncing… How are you going to spend Easter weekend here in Zagreb? A local tradition is a splendid Easter breakfast featuring delicacies symbolic of birth and renewal such as the usual Easter egg. If the sun’s shining, why not make the most of it and head out for an Easter picnic? Zagreb’s parks beckon, and all you need to answer the call in style is a picturesque Easter basket. Here’s how to make one. An excellent place to find a basket is the Uriho shop at Avenija Marina Držića 1 - buying here supports the employment of people with disabilities. Or you can pick up a basket on the plateau at the top end of Dolac market. Once you’ve bought the basket you’ll need a nice cloth to line it and cover the food - traditionally one with lace edges or bright embroidery. Another way to brighten it up is by winding a tape in red, white and blue colours around the handle (you can find this in a haberdashery or a Nama department store). And as far as the contents of your basket are concerned, it’s pretty much up to you, but there are three main Easter items that no basket should be without: ham, eggs and bread.

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Your Easter breakfast might well contain the sweet Easter pogača or pinca loaf (found in bakeries and supermarkets). It’s flavoured with lemon peel, vanilla and perhaps a drop of something stronger, while eggs lend a creamy yellow colour. Then you could pick up a tasty Imes cooked ham. Then of course there’s eggs - look out for the Perfa brand in supermarkets. And head for Dolac market for bunches of spring onions and crisp red radishes to add zest to your Easter treat. While you’re there, you can pick up a bunch of tulips and your basket is pretty as a picture. Of course, since it’s Easter you’ll want your eggs to look special, and here’s a tip for how to colour them naturally: boil them in a pan with onion skins, beetroot or radiccio leaves for a deep reddish colour. Before tucking into these Easter delicacies, traditionally people take them to church to be blessed. If you are so inclined, you can head for morning mass at Zagreb Cathedral (Kaptol 31). After that, it’s just a few steps to Zrinjevac park where you can sit down and tuck in. An alternative Easter basket consists of a loaf of wholemeal bread, Pivac smoked ham (find it in Pivac stores across city), young cheese (svježi sir), sour cream (vrhnje) and eggs, all of which you’ll find on the market at Kvaternikov trg. This time you could dye the eggs green using spinach, nettles or leeks. If you’re in this part of town, take your basket to be blessed at St Jerome’s Church (Maksimirska 125), then enjoy breakfast in the wonderful Maksimir park.

February - April 2013

easter in croatia Omelette

Maja Mačković a.k.a. BigMamma Dear travellers, food lovers and adventurers, meet Maja Mačković - better known as BigMamma. She's a blogger, passionate photographer and recent star of the Istanbul Gastronomy Festival where she won gold medal in the Modern Cuisine category and silver in the Grand Prix. So who could resist trying Maja's special ham omelette this Easter? Of course, one can make an omelette in a million different ways - plain or French style, in 40 seconds flat or in 3 minutes, or just as Jamie Oliver makes it. But take our tip and try this perfect seasonal recipe from Maja. First, let's exchange a few words with Maja to get to know her a little better… ZIYP: Maja, how does it feel to be the golden girl of Istanbul? What prompted you try your luck at the festival this year? Maja: I grew up in the kitchen alongside my father who's a judge at international cookery competitions. As a photographer I've had the chance to experience a load of gastronomy festivals. I always enjoyed the positive spirit of competition, of learning and socialising… I made the decision at last year's festival. I wanted to see what it would be like from the “other side” and find out if I could compete against people who have a whole apparatus to help them prepare for the competition. Now it's clear to me that that was one of the best decisions ever. Th e pride that overwhelms you when the president of the WACS (World Association of Chefs' Societies) hangs the gold medal around your neck is indescribable… you recall every tear shed and drop of sweat on the journey to that gold, you remember people who are no longer with you and you wish they could see you now… it's a magnificent and highly emotional experience.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Ingredients: 4 eggs, Fresh cream, Seasoning (salt, pepper, chilli/ harissa, turmeric), One spoonful of Mascarpone or soft cheese, Pršut, Cheese, Ham, 1 apple, Two slices of pineapple, Tomato sauce , Tabasco sauce, 1-2 green peppers, Butter Method: Omelette/pancake Beat the eggs with the cream, soft cheese and seasoning. Pour some of this into a shallow frying pan (there is enough mixture for 3-4 large “pancakes”). Gently fry the pancake until you can turn it over without it falling apart. Remove from the frying pan and arrange cheese, ham and pršut on top. Roll it up, pop it back into the frying pan and brown until golden. Sweet and sour sauce Cut the apple and pineapple into small chunks (you can leave the pineapple out if you don’t have any). Fry with a little oil or butter until the pieces begin to dissolve. Pour in the tomato sauce and add a little Tabasco to taste. Peppers: Slice the peppers and fry them with a little butter. Add salt and pepper. Add a little flavoured vinegar if you wish. U slast! ZIYP: Was there anything in particular you liked about Turkish cuisine and you'd like to “borrow” for Croatian gastronomy? Maja: In Turkish cuisine they use so many vegetables and intense spices, but it's very dry and I'm a “saucy woman”. But since I love sweet things more than anything, I'd sell my soul for halva or their creations with baklava. But I wouldn't add anything to Croatian cuisine since it has its own personality, among the best in the world. There's no cuisine that Croatian seasonings and olive oil wouldn't suit to perfection. ZIYP: Maja, you star ted your own food blog. What m o t i va t e d yo u t o s t a r t w r i t i n g ? W h e r e d i d yo u get your passi on for food an d ph otography ? Maja: When your father is a complete maniac when it comes to food, combining things you'd never dream of and creating symphonies of flavour and scent from nothing, who demolishes all the myths about food and literally entrances people after the first mouthful… that love of his is infectious. And then probably it's in my genes. In our family we're all creative types and in my case I've developed the most lasting interest in food and photography over theyears. So a fusion of the two was logical. ZIYP: Do you think that the current food blog scene influences people who have never thought about food and gastronomy until now? How strong is that scene in Croatia today? Maja: The internet is fast, easily accessible and interactive, so it's easy to reach people in a very simple way. It's making it easier to demystify gastronomy, which has been seen as a branch reserved for people with exceptional talent or professional training, so I'm deeply convinced that people are thinking more and more about food and gastronomy. Or perhaps it's better to say, they're less and less afraid to experiment in the kitchen. ZIYP: What would you bring us here in Zagreb from H va r, fo o d - wi s e, t h a t i s? A n d c o u l d yo u re c o m m e n d a wi n e fro m H va r t h a t o u r re a d e r s c o u l d take home as one of the best wines from Croatia? Maja: There are only two things you bring from Hvar: olive oil and aromatic herbs. When you have those two

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easter in croatia things, every dish smells of the sea and the island. Wines from Hvar are in a special category of taste and aroma, it's impossible to pick just one. So I'd choose Zlatan Plenković Grand Cru, Ivo Duboković's Medvid and Andro Tomić's Sv. Klement Reserve (red). ZIYP: Maja, which are your favourite places for sweet stuff in Zagreb? Maja: Oh my, what a question! All places that sell sweet stuff, obviously! But if I really had to choose, the Sacher tor te a t B o ba n, a n d anything from Millenium would be my first choice. ZIYP: Finally, tell us how to make that pancake om el et te for E as ter. Maja: Since I'm still in the Orient in my thoughts, I'll give you this simple recipe inspired by the East.

More interviews with the stars of the Croatian gastro scene on www.inyourpocket.com

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The Žudije Festival The Žudije Festival celebrates a Holy Week tradition in Dalmatia of re-enacting the story of the Resurrection. Twelve men dressed as Roman soldiers and a thirteenth, their commander, are charged with the duty of guarding a replica of Christ’s tomb. In some places the Roman outfits are replaced by sailor’s costumes or folk costume. The re-enactment begins the day before Easter Friday. In groups of four, the men take it in turns to guard the “tomb” until midnight on Easter Saturday, when the Holy Vigil is held. TZ Vodice Archives In the Bible story, the Roman guards sent to prevent Jesus’s body being removed from its tomb and the women who had come to anoint his body were terrified when a strong earthquake struck and an angel appeared, after which they found the door to the tomb open and the body no longer inside. This scene is shown in the dramatisation. The Žudije is a tradition widespread in Dalmatia since the late 19th century, with every parish developing its own variation. This festival started in the coastal town of Vodice in 2001 as a way of celebrating and preserving those traditions. Žudije groups from all over Dalmatia gather in a different parish every year, but every sixth year they return to Vodice where the festival began. This year the Žudije will be held in the parish of the Holy Trinity in Rogotin, near Ploče.

February - April 2013

Culture & Events

The Barber of Seville, Helena Lucić Šego, Ljubomir Puškarić (Photo by Saša Novković)

Rock & Pop Concerts 01.03 Friday

ST!llness C-1, Žedno uho club, Jezuitski trg 4 (The basement of the Klovićevi dvori Gallery). A bit of this, a bit of that, a bit of reggae and rock, dub and hip hop, and we have this formative energetic band from Split that is anything but ‘still'. These eight lads have appeared at almost major regional festivals and shared the stage with - Prodigy, Misty in Roots, Edo Maajka, LET 3, TBF and others. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 35 - 45kn.

09.03 Saturday

General Woo E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. Regarded as one of the biggest names in Croatia's hip hop history, the former member of the popular band Tram 11, General Woo has been present on the musical scene for over 15 years and is the author of several hip hop classics such as ‘Čovječe ne ljuti se' or ‘Vrućina gradskog asfalta'. So come and bop to hip hop! Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 50 - 70kn.

Classical Music Concerts 01.03 Friday

The Ten Tenors A-4, Dražen Petrović Sports Centre, Savska cesta 30. The thunder boys from down under have managed to change the traditional definition of opera singing by featuring both classical opera tunes, native Australian tunes as well as rock songs by Queen, AC/DC and Meat Loaf. The group performs 250 shows on average and make their Croatian debut. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 180 - 290kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

20.03 Wednesday

Jessie Ware E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, info@tvornicakulture. com, www.tvornicakulture.com. Beware as Miss Ware comes to town! This upcoming British singer song-writer who leaped the music charts with last year's single ‘Wildest Moments' bridges the modernity of electronic pop and nostalgia with her soulful voice. Critics dub her as the new Annie Lenox or Sade. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 160 - 200kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

21.03 Thursday

Peter Hook and The Light perform Joy Division - Unknown Pleasures H-5, Pauk, Jarunska 2. Fans of cult band Joy Division will have a chill going down their spines knowing that the man who co-found the band resurrects the hay days with a new line-up that dead ringer knows how to relive the classics. The Joy Division back-catalogue, 35 years on, gets a breath of fresh air! Q Tickets 120 - 150kn.

17.04 Wednesday

Beyoncé - The Mrs. Carter Show World Tour H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište 30. Arguably one of the world's hottest stars once again graces us and this time with a huge backdrop, multiple costume changes, an all-female band, 10 dancers and above all her majestic stage demeanor and voice. Here ‘Freakum Drums', ‘Single Ladies', ‘Halo', ‘Countdown' and other hits in one of the events of the year. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 220 - 800kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

21.04 Sunday

Less Than Jake E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture. com. The iconic American ska punk band is coming to Croatia for the first time as part of their European tour.

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Culture & Events So far they have released eight studio albums and have played with the likes of Blink 182, The Used, Bad Religion and Linkin Park, just to name few. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 80 - 100kn.

Jazz&Blues Concerts 03.03 Sunday

Fay Claasen I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Known for her extraordinary sense of jazz-timing and vocal improvisation, this Dutch jazz vocalist has literally blown critics away since the very beginning of her career. Don't miss the opportunity to hear the beautiful voice by this beautiful lady that is coming to our city! Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 70 - 90kn.

05.03 Tuesday

Arturo Sandoval I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. The legendary and dazzling Cuban jazz trumpeter, pianist, composer and winner of 8 Grammy Awards hits town! He was one of the founders of the famous Cuban band Irakera and was greatly influenced by Dizzy Gillespie. Be blown away by his range from soulful jazz pieces to Afro-Cuban rhythms. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 130 - 190kn.

18.03 Monday - 21.03 Thursday

23th Jazz.hr/Spring Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, Studio Zvonimir Bajsić, Prisavlje 3, www.jazz.hr. Spruce up spring with this mega annual jazz jamboree coming your way. Pick and choose from a host of local and international artists of world calibre including our very own Vesna Pisarović, Damjan Grbac, Matija Dedić who is joined by Harvie S and Gene Jackson, the Ron Carter Golden Strike Trio, and the audacious HRT Jazz Orchestra who get better with age and can woo audiences with their range of hits and improvisations.

Jessie Ware

Opera, Operetta & Ballet 26.02 Tuesday

Gioacchino Rossini - The Barber of Seville (Il barbiere di Siviglia) B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Although two hundred years have passed since Rossini composed his most famous comic opera, this masterpiece of musical comedy hasn't lost any of its irresistible charm and popularity. Watch and listen as Figaro, Rosina and other remarkable characters come to life on stage. Q Performances on: 26th, 28th February and 11th April.

05.03 Tuesday

Léo Delibes, Youri Vámos - Coppélia on Montmartre B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. This playful and charming ballet full of humor and heartfelt emotions premiered in 1870 in the Paris Opera. Based on a story by E.T.A Hoffmann ‘The Sandman' and published in 1815, this version is somewhat different to the original regarding storyline and characters, thus creating an original dance musical filled with lively CanCan rhythm. Q Performances on: 5th, 8th, 9th, 12th, 15th and 16th March.

09.03 Saturday

Richard Wagner - Parsifal I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. Wagner's last completed opera based on the 13th century epic poem of the Arthurian king Parzival and his quest for the Holy Grail, is coming to us live from the famous Metropolitan Opera, conducted by Daniele Gatti and directed by François Girard. Jonas Kaufmann and Katarina Dalayman play the leading roles. Q Starts at 18:00. Tickets 95kn.

16.03 Saturday

Riccardo Zandonai - Francesca da Rimini

Pablo Picasso - Woman with a Necklare, Juan-les-Pins, été 1926, Huile sur toile, Musée national Picasso, Pariz, Donacija Pablo Picasso, 1979. © Succession Picasso, 2012,© Musée national Picasso, Paris,© Paris, Réunion des Musées Nationaux

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I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr. A dazzling production of Zandonai's best-known opera and one of the most original Italian melodramas of the 20th century inspired by an episode form Dante's Inferno, returns to the Met after almost three decades. The doomed lovers are played by soprano Eva-Maria Westbroek and tenor Marcello Giordani. Conducted by Marco Armiliato. Q Starts at 18:00. Tickets 95kn.

February - April 2013

Culture & Events 17.01 Thursday - 03.03 Sunday

Croatian Photography through the eyes of Peter Knapp B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr. What a CV Knapp has! He has photographed for Elle, Vogue, Stern and Sunday Times, worked alongside Andy Warhol and in his riveting passion for this medium he soldiers on as he reviews and merges Croatian photography from the 1930s until today. See the likes of Đuro Janeković, Tošo Dabac, Mladen Tudor and the works of other greats through the eyes of a great.

18.01 Friday - 17.03 Sunday

The Prague Four - Uzelac, Gecan, Varlaj, Trepše C-3, Ar t Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, info@ umjetnicki-paviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. The Prague Four is an informal title for four Croatian painters who established themselves whilst staying in Prague, during and after WWI. Their Prague experience and inspiration is evident in numerous common artistic themes, motifs and art style, ranging from cubism to expressionism. Over 100 paintings, drawings and prints will be displayed. Vilko Gecan, The Cynic, 1921

22.03 Friday

Richard Wagner - Lohengrin B-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Celebrating 200 years since the birth of Wagner, the co-production of his famous fairy-tale opera between CNT Zagreb and the Mainfranken Theatre Würzburg will surely deliver a bedazzling performance of this medieval legend about Lohengrin, the knight of the Holy Grail. Q Performances on: 22nd, 27th, 29th March and 13th April.

Exhibitions 22.11 Thursday - 19.05 Sunday

Iso Kršnjavi - The Great Founder / Minister with a European Spirit B-1, Croatian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www.hismus.hr. The biography of Kršnjavi simultaneously represents the turbulent political and cultural situation that Croatia was in with regard to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. His talents could not be suppressed as his path to becoming an erudite, painter, art historian and talented politician is showcased.

20.02 Wednesday - 30.03 Saturday

Gordana Drinković - Glass, my second body B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, muo@ muo.hr, www.muo.hr. Glass is a tender material of rare beauty that is created through human breath and Gordana Drinković is an artist who in its beauty and fragility finds the way to express herself and communicate with the world. The exhibition is divided into five segments and will present glasses, vases, glass bowls and candle holders as made by the artist herself.

22.02 Friday - 24.03 Sunday

The T-HT Prize (T-HTnagrada@msu.hr) J-4, Museum of Contemporary Art, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Contemporary artists listen in as for the 6th year running the Museum of Contemporary Art and T-HT (Croatian Telecom) are organizing a course competition with a focus on multimedia productions using picture and sound - it entails video, experimental film, internet art, robotic and electronic art. A foreign jury will select the best works to be presented.

27.11 Tuesday - 28.02 Thursday

Željko Badurina - Project Insider (Contemporary Artists at the permanent display of the Museum of Arts and Crafts) B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www. muo.hr. Badurina has no boundaries often taking every day items and graphically adding, toning, or manipulating them to enhance, unify or retract. It is post art where his works include ink-jet prints on paper through collaging and photoediting. Art history and pop art are prominent themes. Postcards are also his forte.

12.12 Wednesday - 10.03 Sunday

Reflections of Time 1945 - 1955 C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www. galerijaklovic.hr. Backtrack in time to post WWII where the installment of Communism had a major impact on Croatian soil and the lives of our forefathers. This exhibit relives this transitional phase with photographs retelling the changes in society, including symbols, motifs and icons of that decade.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Less Than Jake

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Culture & Events

ANCIENT CIVILIZATIONS AND CLASSICAL

Opening Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday 10.00 - 17.00 Thursday 10.00 - 19.00 Sunday 10.00 - 14.00 Mondays and Festivity Days closed

Opening Hours from 1 July to 30 September: Tuesday - Friday 10.00 - 19.00 Saturday 10.00 - 17.00 Sunday 10.00 - 14.00 Mondays and Festivity Days closed

Rooseveltov trg 5 10000 Zagreb Croatia Telephone+ 385 (0)1 48 28 100 • Fax + 385 (0)1 48 26 078 • E-mail: mimara@mimara.hr Audio Visual Guide on your smart phone and WiFi –Free

• IVORY • GLASS • PORCELAIN • FURNITURE

EUROPEAN ART: OLD MASTERS PAINTINGS • SCULPTURE • METALWORKS

ANTIQUITY • ORIENTAL RUGS • CHINESE AND OTHER FAR-EASTERN ART

23.03 Saturday - 07.07 Sunday

Master Pieces from the Picasso Museum C-1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. What a ‘bellissimo' treat for all art lovers! Fifty-six paintings and sculptures, as well as forty photos arrive from the Picasso Museum in Paris, one of the biggest Picasso art collections in the world. The exhibition will give visitors a glimpse into the artists' magnificent art work as well as life.

16.04 Tuesday - 26.05 Sunday

Kuzma Kovačić - Retrospective C-3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1. The name Kovačić and sculpting go ‘hand in hand'! And it is in this man's hands that over 100 sculptures, artefacts, installations and reliefs of the highest degree have been produced over a 30 year career. His upbringing along the Mediterranean is an inspiration to his works which are made of bronze, wood, glass, aluminium and other materials. Witness modernism with a soul!

Special events 24.02 Sunday - 03.03 Sunday

Dox will present life stories of some of the most influential people in recent history such as Steve Jobs'. Lectures, workshops and forums will also be held.

01.03 Friday - 15.03 Friday

Black House - The Musical in Colour B-4, Student Centre Cinema, Savska cesta 25, www. crnakuca.com. The new and original Croatian musical based on an old Zagreb legend and written by Ladislav Prežigalo and Darko Hajsek. With plenty of humor and catchy tunes, this is a true spectacle featuring dancing friars and nuns, tap dance inside dungeons, a witch hunt and other shenanigans to leave the audience in jitters. Q Performances on: 1st, 8th and 15th March.

01.03 Friday - 03.03 Sunday

Panč festival E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.studiosmijeha. hr/pancfestival/. Pinch, punch, first day of the month! And on the 1st, the so called Panč festival brings together stand up comedians from Macedonia, Bosnia, Serbia, Slovenia and of course Croatia. What better way to break down the barriers then through jolly old humour. This year's festival slogan is ‘Revolution of the Balkan conscious 1,2,3 Go'.

ZagrebDox festival

16.03 Saturday - 27.03 Wednesday

C-1, Cineplexx Cinema, Nova Ves 17, info@zagrebdox. net, www.zagrebdox.net. The 9th edition of the popular international festival of documentaries will present over 150 films from all four corners of the world. Together with the already traditional official programme selections such as Controversial Dox, State of Affairs, Happy Dox, Teen Dox, Masters of Dox and Musical Globe, this year's new programme entitled Biography

Various locations across city, tel.(+385-) 91 526 53 64, diana.hrebak@zg.t-com.hr. Established in 1992, this event seeks to promote the values of the Passion of Christ seen as the basis of European and Croatian civilization. The programme consists of numerous musical and theatre performances, as well as exhibitions of fine art. Jesus is the reason for the season!

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The 22nd Festivities of the Passion Heritage

February - April 2013

Culture & Events 15.04 Monday - 21.04 Sunday

The 22nd Days of Croatian Film B-4, Student's Centre, Savska cesta 25, www.dhf. sczg.hr. The very best of the national film scene come together with the finest feature films, documentaries, animation, experimental and musical videos on show. The festival is competitive with many awards up for grabs as the cream of the crop of Croatian film get to mingle and jingle in a rich programme of film and fun.

Galleries Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon) C-3, Trg kralja

The 27th Music Biennial Zagreb, Seletkovic - Muller, Air

30.03 Saturday

Masters of Dirt H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište 30. The world's most exciting free style motorcross spectacle is coming to Zagreb for the very first time! Electrifying, breathtaking and daring, see acrobatics on two wheels with figures in freestyle such as Cliff-hanger or Tsunami, just to name the few! These boys can deliver! Q Starts at 19:00. Tickets 85 - 850kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

04.04 Thursday

Burhan Öçal and Istanbul Orient Ensemble I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. The Turkish onslaught continues! Our nation has in recent times become infatuated with Turkish culture and tradition through a range of immensely popular Turkish soap operas shown on TV. Now see a new dimension of the orient by renowned multi-instrumentalist Burhan Öçal and his Istanbul Oriental Ensemble recreating the feel and style of Turkish and Thracian gypsy music. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 130 - 220kn.

04.04 Thursday - 14.04 Sunday

Gričevanje www.gricevanje.com. The Grič itch is back and do know that one of Zagreb's most scenic spots in the Upper Town will have concerts as well as music playing back on speakers throughout the entire night if you choose to serenade. Beware of the historical legend of the Grič witch who may be lurking and stirring up a magical potion or two.

Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnickipaviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you'll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) / Meštrović Pavilion (Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika / Meštrovićev paviljon) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel.

(+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, hdlu@hdlu. hr, www.hdlu.hr. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name “džamija” testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Klovićevi dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi dvori)

C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26, press@ galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you'll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English or German. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. U

05.04 Friday - 07.04 Sunday

The Laughter Film Festival www.hfs.hr. Hold on! Step back and step out of that busy world to crack a laugh! Numerous film directors will present their creative works in a happy and positive atmosphere with the simple aim of promoting happiness, an important state of the human spirit.

06.04 Saturday - 13.04 Saturday

The 27th Music Biennial Zagreb Various locations across city, mbz@hds.hr, www.mbz.hr. Through many musical genres displayed, the faithful biennial audience will once again have the chance to enjoy the sounds of contemporary music by both the genre's classics and young upcoming contemporary composers. This year's main theme is entitled EU - Inside/Outside. All those in search for new, young and imaginative contemporary musical expression are more than welcome to join us!

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General Woo

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Culture & Events

Lauba - The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) H - 3, Baruna Filipovića 23a,

tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Lauba is a rare example of a complete architectural rework of an abandoned industrial building into a public space. Back in 1924, the building housed a textile factory. Later on, when production ceased, it was converted into a warehouse. The name “Lauba - The House for People and Art” is not a mere marketing trick. The reincarnation of this building is now a home for the creation of a different type of product altogether, a place where art exhibitions coexist with company offices. The collection here is not isolated from everyday life: in fact, for some years already the collection has lived and grown together with the offices that surround it. There are no characterless white walls here. The background is made of old brick and aluminium and is pleomorphic, exhibiting many forms during its life cycle. It is large and merciless to the exhibits on show here. The house is alive from morning to night. During office hours it's home to the company employees. From 15:00 - 23:00 the public takes over and it's a space for experiences, for learning, for fun and for social interaction. Laubus has a collection of 500 works of art created over the last 60 years, beginning with the renowned Exat 51 and New Tendencies movements. The greatest names in recent Croatian art are here. The exhibition changes once a month. QOpen 15:00 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Admission 10 - 25kn. U Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija) C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 55, moderna-galerija@ zg.t-com.hr. The Modern Gallery has been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called "200 Years of Croatian Art" - that's just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. In remaining with the modern theme, the Gallery has recently opened a new section for blind people and those who have poor eyesight - it enables visitors to learn more about Croatian modern art through sound (audio guide) and touch (tactile diagrams). Hi-tech indeed! A tactile gallery is also featured as part of the gallery. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U

to remind each one of us not to take ourselves too seriously.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 25kn. The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters (Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora) C-3, Trg N. Š.

Zrinjskog 11, tel. (+385-1) 489 51 17, sgallery@hazu. hr, www.hazu.hr. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that's indisputable. When he wasn't out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Small galleries Academia Moderna D-3, Augusta Šenoe 11, academia.moderna1@gmail.com. Q Open Tue - Fri 14:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

Canvas Gallery (Galerija Canvas) E-2, Tomašićeva

8, tel. (+385-1) 462 13 50, galerija@canvas.hr, www. canvas.hr. Studio and gallery of graphic art.They hold three exhibitions a month, so it’s worth looking in regularly. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Događanja K-4, Ivanićgradska 41a, tel. (+385-1) 230 31 22, galerija@kcpescenica.hr, www.kcp.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Forum Gallery (Galerija Forum) C-2, Nikole Tesle 16, tel. (+385-1) 481 07 10, kic@kic.hr, www.kic.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) C-1, Ćirilometodska 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10

21, info@brokenships.com, www.brokenships.com. Some of you may have come across the Museum of Broken Relationships before as it's been on tour around the world collecting and displaying mementos of relationships gone wrong. The Museum now has a permanent exhibition space in Gornji grad in its home town of Zagreb. The project's original purpose was to relieve people of the psychic burden of objects loaded with memories, but as the Museum travels the world's metropolises, a fascinating social-anthropological treasure-trove is being created. This is a touching, tender and often funny testament to peoples' eccentricities that serves Arturo Sandoval (Photo by Manny Iriarte)

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February - April 2013

Culture & Events Modulor Gallery (Galerija Modulor) H-3, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, tel. (+385-1) 302 74 11/(+385-1) 302 42 47, modulor@cekate.hr, www.cekate.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Permanenta Gallery C-3, Preradovićeva 44/1, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com.hr, www.ulupuh.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. SC Gallery (Galerija SC) A-4, Savska 25, tel. (+3851) 459 36 02, galerija@sczg.hr, www.galerija.sczg. hr. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. ULUPUH Gallery (Galerija ULUPUH) C-1, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 46, galerija-ulupuh@zg.t-com. hr, www.ulupuh.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Vladimir Bužančić Gallery (Galerija Vladimir Bužančić) H-5, Trg narodne zaštite 2, Remetinec, tel.

(+385-1) 614 01 89, galerija.vladimir.buzancic@czknovi-zagreb.hr, www.czk-novi-zagreb.hr. Q Open 09:00 -18:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 -14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Vladimir Filakovac Gallery (Galerija Vladimir Filakovac) L-2, Dubrava 51a, tel. (+385-1) 205 00 63,

galerija@ns-dubrava.hr, www.ns-dubrava.hr. Free entry. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. VN Gallery (Galerija VN) H-3, Ilica 163a, tel. (+3851) 377 08 96, galerija.vn@kgz.hr, www.kvn.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Zvonimir Gallery (Galerija MORH-a Zvonimir) E-3, Bauerova 33, tel. (+385-1) 456 79 26, galerija@morh. hr. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. Kuzma Kovačić, Body, 1985

Galerija Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-

1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. Q Admission free.

G-mk / Miroslav Kraljević Gallery (G-mk / Galerija Miroslav Kraljević) E-3, Šubićeva 29, tel. (+385-1)

459 26 96, info@g-mk.hr, www.g-mk.hr. An impressive display house, the artist will feel at home here. It has an interactive feel to it. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Josip Račić Studio (Studio Josip Račić) C-2, Margaretska 3, tel. (+385-1) 492 23 68. This gallery is affiliated with the Modern Gallery, and showcases eight to ten exhibits on a yearly basis. Very helpful and informative staff. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission free. Karas Gallery (Galerija Karas) C-2, Praška 4, tel. (+385-1) 481 15 61, hdlu@hdlu.hr, w w w.hdlu.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Kranjčar C-1, Kaptol 26, tel. (+385-1) 481 84 00/ (+385-) 099 217 77 00, kranjcar@kranjcar.hr, www. kranjcar.hr. Q Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun on request. Admission free.

Cinemas Art kino Metropolis J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17 (Contemporary Art Museum), tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www. msu.hr. Croatia’s first digital art cinema in the new Museum shows a carefully selected repertoire of films from around the world. Each feature is preceded by a Croatian short film, a genre which has done well in recent years at international festivals. There will also be an excellent programme of children’s films featuring titles from Croatia and abroad. Cineplexx Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova Ves 17(Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 563 38 88, info@cineplexx.hr, www.cineplexx.hr. This modern cinema in the smart Kaptol Centar shopping mall also hosts some unconventional film cycles. Q Open 15:00 - 22:30, Sat , Sun 10:30 - 22:00.

Mijo Kovačić Gallery (Mijo Kovačić Galerija)

C-1, Basaričekova 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 77, www. mijokovacic.com. QOpen 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission free. Mirko Virius (Mirko Virius) C-1/2, Tkalčićeva 14, tel. (+385-1) 481 37 30, galerija@hi.t-com.hr, www.hdnaiva.hr. Naive art is featured, primarily consisting of brightcoloured paintings. Q Open Mon - Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Thu - Fri 13:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

ST!llness (Photo by Nini Šolić)

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90

Postolar Tripper

CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1)

468 66 02, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. The comfortable, modern cinemas in the Branimir Centre and Avenue Mall shopping complexes usually screen the latest blockbusters. However, the Branimir Centre venue additionally hosts the Cinefest cycle of European productions.For reservations call 060 32 32 33. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Grič D-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 00, info@ kinematografi.hr, www.kinomatografi.hr. This space is undergoing a revival as a cult meeting spot. In May, this older-style cinema serves as one of the venues of the Young Choreograhers’ Platform. There’s a funky café, and the basement club hosts DJ parties open ‘til 02:00 on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, featuring genres from dubstep through grime to 80s trash.

Zoom into more events Classic 28.02 Thursday

Markus Schirmer, piano - The Master Cycle of the Croatian Radio and Television Symphonic Orchestra

I-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, blagajna@lisinski.hr, www.lisinski.hr.

04.03 Monday

Lidija Ljubićić, flute - From the Hall of Mirrors Cycle C-1, Dverce Palace, Trg Katarine Zrinske 6, www.kdz.hr.

05.03 Tuesday

Trio Orlando - 3 Plus / Minus Cycle

45/(+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www. kinoeuropa.hr. An attractive old cinema, café and Saturday evening dance venue, a favourite haunt of the Zagreb literati. The cinema is managed by the same people who run the Zagreb Film Festival, and apart from enjoying the festival here every October, you can catch all kinds of established and cutting-edge festivals, such as the Subversive Film Festival, Animafest (animated film) and Queer Zagreb screenings. Follow them on Facebook! Q Box office open 30 minutes before the first projection. Tickets 20 - 25kn. Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 39, www.filmski-programi.hr/english/. Almost entirely devoted to international art cinema, Tuškanac today hosts cycles from the most varied national cinemas and directors. This October there will be a cycle of Japanese films, followed by a cycle of French films by Alain Resnais and Olivier Assayas. In November you’ll be able to enjoy a review of Iberian-American film and a selection of excellent Portuguese, Spanish, Brazilian and Argentine titles. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection. Tickets 10kn.

Coppélia on Montmartre (Photo by Saša Novković)

C-1, Dver ce Palace, Tr g Katarine Zrinske 6, www.kdz.hr.

16.04 Tuesday

Zagreb Trio - 3 Plus / Minus Cycle

B-3, Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosevelta 5, www.kdz.hr.

More Exhibitions 01.10 Monday - 01.03 Friday

Sutures, structures, textures - Fossila as an inspiration in fashion design B-1, The Croatian Natural History Museum, Demetrova 1, www.hpm.hr.

12.02 Tuesday - 14.03 Thursday

B-3, Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosevelta 5, www.kdz.hr.

Slaven Tolj - Ahchiles’ Heal

Psalmodia christiana - Dieterich Buxtehude Cycle - Collected organ works

14.02 Thursday - 15.03 Friday

17.03 Sunday

D-3, The Basilica of the Heart of Jesus, Palmotićeva 33, www.kdz.hr.

27.03 Wednesday

Wolfram Wagner (* 1962) - Concerto for Violin and Orchestra B-3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosevelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00.

08.04 Monday

Zagreb Wind Trio - From the Hall of Mirrors Cycle zagreb.inyourpocket.com

J-3, RaGa Gallery, Radnička cesta 22, radnickagalerija@vip.hr.

Mejrema Reuter - Libya, a story about people

C-4, The City Library Dome Gallery, Starčevićev trg 6.

Rock & Pop Concerts 16.03 Saturday

Postolar Tripper

E-3, Tvornica kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture.com. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 40 - 60kn.

www.inyourpocket.com February - April 2013

Where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Cream of the crop Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel.

(+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, sheraton. zagreb@sheraton.com, www.hotel-sheratonzagreb.com. Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about best available daily room rates. Pets welcome at 30€ daily. Q306 rooms (254 doubles €280, 28 suites €350 - 415, 23 Executive Rooms €305, 1 Presidential Suite €1500). PZOTHAR6UFLŽ GBKDCwW hhhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westinres. zagreb@westin.com, www.westinzagreb.com. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service. It’s majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in Kaptol restaurant which offers renowned domestic and international cuisine. All amenities are available. Pets welcome at 30€ daily. Q349 rooms (308 doubles €133 - 183, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €183 - 233, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 19 Executive Suites €268 - 318, 2 Delux Suites €550 - 600). PZOTJHAŽ R6UIFLGBKDCwW hhhhh

Upmarket

BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria. hr. The refurbished BEST WESTERN Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets on request. Free parking available. Q100 rooms (36 singles €97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €110 - 125, 18 Twin €110 - 125, 12 Executive €132 - 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). PTHAR6ULGKW hhhh NEW

Double Tree by Hilton Zagreb J-3, Ulica grada Vuk-

ovara 269a, tel. (+385-1) 600 19 00, fax (+385-1) 600 19 16, www.zagreb.doubletree.com. Located in Zagreb’s business district, it’s only a few kilometers from the city center. Decorated in a sleek and modern style, this chic hotel has 152 guestrooms and suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, overlooking a spectacular panoramic view of the city. During your stay, get your heart rate up at the fitness center or just kick back your feet and relax at the indoor pool and sauna. For a quick fix on any shop-a-holic urges, Green Gold Shopping Center is located nearby, along with plenty of restaurants to satisfy your food cravings. Pets allowed. Breakfast included. Parking 15 €. Q152 rooms (26 Guest rooms Twin €109-209, 90 Guest rooms King €109 - 209, 2 Desabled Guest rooms King €109-209, 28 Deluxe rooms King €135-235, 6 Corner Suites €209-309). PHAR6UFLGDCwW Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1) 486 35 06, reservations@hoteldubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles at you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva Street. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Ban Jelačić Square and the buzzing café scene, giving you all the most important landmarks and cultural events within minutes walk. No pets. Q245 rooms (123 singles €135, 92 King Twin Rooms €150 - 174, 22 Delux Rooms €200, 4 Junior Suites €350, 3 Executive Suites €400, 1 Business Room €220). POTJHA6UFLGŽ BKXW hhhh

Arcotel Allegra D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1)

469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 27, allegra@arcotel.at, www.arcotel.at/allegra. The Branimir Centre encompasses not only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, cafes and restaurants. Multifunctional furniture, contemporary sea-inspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations. Pets welcome at 8€/ day. Q151 rooms (39 singles €170, 104 doubles €184, 4 Junior Suites €260, 4 Executive Suite €335). PTJHAŽ R6UIFLEGBKDSW hhhh Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www. hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q150 rooms (4 singles €90 - 116, 142 doubles €99 - 124, 4 suites €133 - 250). PHA6UFLGBKDXSW hhhh

www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket

Relaxed Zagreb (Photo by Željko Krčadinac)

Hotel International C-4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1)

610 88 00, fax (+385-1) 610 87 00, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotel-international.hr. This elegantlydesigned hotel has plenty of conference and banquet areas and rooms to meet the needs of any traveler. The expected amenities are all there, along with an attractive open lobby that includes bar and restaurant. If the attentive staff has anything to do with it, this might become the preferred spot for business and conferences in town. Q207 rooms (177 doubles €130, 8 triples €209, 1 suite €232, 20 Junior Suites €150, 1 Presidential Suite €469). POTHAR6UŽ FLGKDwW hhhh

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay Old-School charm Esplanade Zagreb Hotel C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel.

(+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-1) 456 60 50, Info@ esplanade.hr, www.esplanade.hr. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 35€/day. Breakfast not included; 24€/ person. Q208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €119 - 194, 48 Delux Rooms €138 - 178, 13 Delux Suite €209 - 249, 1 Presidential Suite €1600). PTJHAR6UIFLEGBŽ KDW hhhhh

Mid-range Best Western Hotel Stella Nadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Q44 rooms (41 singles €70 76, 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141, 24 Extra bed €20). PAULGW hhh Central D/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax (+385-1) 484 13 04, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. Q76 rooms (38 singles €69 - 86, 29 doubles €93 - 116, 5 triples €140, 4 apartments €186). POTJHA6W hhh I H-5, Remetinečka cesta 106, tel. (+385-1) 614 12 22, fax (+385-1) 654 21 15, reception@hotel-i.hr, www. hotel-i.hr. Hotel I, just south of the River Sava, has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment, and you’ll find the rooms comfortable and looking really good. The staff do their utmost to please, and the location means you can avoid city centre traffic nightmares. Meeting rooms, nearby sports facilities and a restaurant offering local specialities complete the picture. No pets. Q214 rooms (75 singles €62 - 78, 100 doubles €88 - 108, 35 triples €111 - 132, 4 suites €122 144). PTHA6ULEGBKW hhh Laguna A-4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 304 70 00, fax (+385-1) 304 70 77, info@hotel-laguna.hr, www. hotel-laguna.hr. Just a short tram hop from the main square, the rooms are clean and decent, some have mini-bar, and some singles have queen-sized beds. The communal areas feature great squishy couches and rugs with a knowing nod to 70s design principles. Loads of facilities including an internet terminal, travel agency, car rental, dry cleaner and gym. Pets welcome at 20€/day. Q166 rooms (62 singles €55 - 70, 83 doubles €66 - 80, 15 triples €90, 6 suites €100 - 120). PJHA6UIFGKDXW hhh

Budget Fala I-4, II Trnjanske ledine 18, tel. (+385-1) 611 10 62, fax (+385-1) 619 44 98, hotel-fala@hotel-fala-zg. hr, www.hotel-fala-zg.hr. Rooms are miniature but clean and well-suited to supporting your horizontal person. The price isn’t bad and the location is a straight shot south of the train station (about 2km). No pets. Q15 rooms (4 singles €35, 9 doubles €40 - 50, 2 Family Rooms €60 - 72). PARUGW hh zagreb.inyourpocket.com

February - April 2013

Where to stay Jaegerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax

(+385-1) 483 35 73, info@hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr, www.hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr. A centrally located, small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side. The hotel’s restaurant specialises in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast. No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles €70, 8 doubles €98, 2 apartments €127). PJA6ILGBKXW hh Sliško K-3, Supilova 13, tel. (+385-1) 618 47 77, 619 42 22/(+385-1) 619 42 10, fax (+385-1) 619 42 23, hotel@ slisko.hr, www.slisko.hr. It’s only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one. A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). No pets. Q18 rooms (2 singles 392kn, 10 doubles 531kn, 4 triples 659kn, 2 quads 776kn). PTJA6ILVEGBK hh Zagreb J-4, D. Tomljanovića Gavrana bb, tel. (+385-1) 663 73 33, fax (+385-1) 663 72 29, zagreb@hup-zagreb. hr, www.hotelzagreb.com.hr. The architecture is unlikely to get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q48 rooms (12 singles 300kn, 36 doubles 350kn). A6K hh

Homestays Evistas D-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95

54/(+385-) 095 905 48 88, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. Let the friendly Englishspeaking staff hook you up with a place in old or new Zagreb. Hosted housing or private room/apartment possibilities with an affordable price. Q21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 105). PALGK

Mountain high Apartment house Snježna kraljica outskirts, Sljeme

4, Stubičke Toplice, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, fax (+3851) 642 93 63, snjezna.kraljica@zgh.hr, www.sljeme. hr. This quaint chalet style apartment hotel lies in the picturesque winter ski resort of Zagreb’s Sljeme. Named in honour of Janica Kostelić. Large enough to dance in, all rooms are tastefully designed and include fab views! The hotel also has a fitness and wellness centre which includes Finnish saunas, a solarium and a Jacuzzi. Anyone is welcome to try traditional dishes in the lodge style restaurant. Q17 rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €51 - 118, 1 8-bedded apartment €160). PTHA6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh Tomislavov dom Sljeme 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavov.dom@zgh.hr, www. sljeme.hr. Completley overhauled recently, the house of the king offers top lodgings at the peak of the mountain, including a great wellness centre. Q41 rooms (10 singles €55, 15 doubles €80, 16 triples €84). THA6UFGŽ BKDCW hhh

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Hostels Buzz Backpackers Club J-3, Babukićeva 1b, tel. (+385-1) 232 02 67, fax (+385-1) 242 07 31, r eception@buz zbackpacker s.com, w w w. buzzbackpackers.com. More than a stop-over between hikes and sites, Buzz makes a mini home-away-from-home that draws local and international travelers alike. Great for large groups, the refreshingly clean and colorful abundant dorm-style and private rooms stretch out over several floors, ensuring space enough for getting-to-know fellow travelers or having some quiet alone time. Thoughtful touches like a ″little things you need shop,″ cozy commons including a playstation and all-night tea and coffee creates the feeling of local living while bee-ing only minutes away from the trams. Q 26 dorm beds, 17 - 55€ per person. PTA6GW Funk I-4, Poljička 13a, tel. (+385-1) 631 45 30, booking@funkhostel.hr, www.funkhostel.hr. Attention party people! We dare you to find a sweeter spot to crash than the Funk night club crew’s hostel-away-from-home. The massive chill-out lounge, café bar lobby and primo kitchen each fill a separate level of the space, creating oh-so-many places to chill, hang-out and have fun. It gets better: sleeping areas occupy the quiet of the uppermost floor, there’s free laundry service and even the bathrooms are miraculously spotless. Just don’t bounce before tag ging the guestbook wall or asking about their (even bigger) additional location opening soon. Q 32 dorm beds, 14 - 16€ per person. PA6GWŽ

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Hobo Bear B-2, Andrije Medulića 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 36, hobobearhostel@gmail.com, w w w. hobobearhostel.com. Travelers’ Hobo spiri ts are honored in this cozy cavern nestled in the heart of the city. The original stone arcitecture creates an ambience of timelessness in a commons room begging to be shared with a good book or new friends. Most sleeping space is situated in clean and cheery dorms on the upper floor. Curl up with a complimentary welcome drink or set off with staff suggestions on the city’s latest offerings, whatever your inner HoboBear desires. Apartment available. Ages 18-40. Q 30 dorm beds, 20 - 27,5€ per person. P6NGW Ravnice Youth Hostel K/L-2, I Ravnice 38d, tel. (+385-1) 233 23 25, fax (+385-1) 234 56 07, ravniceyouth-hostel.hr@zg.t-com.hr, www.ravnice-youthhostel.hr. This hostel knows how it’s supposed to be done and is exactly what the city has needed. Opened in July 2001, it’s of the simple dormitory style and is woody and very clean. The self-kitchen and friendly host take the experience to the next level. An internet café is part of the scene, you’ll be happy if this is your choice and you don’t mind the short jaunt into town (15minute tram ride). Q 36 dorm beds, 112 - 125kn per person. RW, a shelf with city guides and books to read and friendly staff at your service. Q 215 dorm beds, 17 - 52€ per person. JARUGW

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Restaurants Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

6 Animal friendly

R Internet

N No Credit cards

Croatian Atlanta Bocca Marai C-4, Miramarska 22, tel. (+385-

1) 617 02 07, info@bocca-marai.hr, www.bocca-marai. hr. In the unlikely setting of the Croatia Osiguranje insurance company HQ, the interior designers have done a grand job, creating a simple and stylish place to enjoy decent food, great music and an excellent selection of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. (80 - 150kn). PAGB Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan. com, www.konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (45 - 100kn). PALGW Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (68 - 130kn). PTAGB Klub književnika C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 22 90/(+385-) 091 481 22 90, restaurant@klub-knjizevnika.hr, www.klub-knjizevnika.hr. Famous writers have been making this their meeting point for years and it’s easy to see why: the view of Trg bana J.Jelačića is conducive to great brainstorm sessions, the meal a well prepared essay and the bill a surprising poem of love and understanding. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 130kn). PJAGBW Okrugljak D-2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1) 467 41 12, okrugljak@okrugljak.hr, www.okrugljak.hr. Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputation because of its star-studded ambience and food. At the base of Medvednica. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn). ALEGBW Pri Zvoncu I-4, XII Vrbik 1, tel. (+385-1 ) 619 84 73, www.prizvoncu.com. Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef and lamb ispod peke - a traditional Dalmatian cast iron bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the railway line - you won’t regret it. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 150kn). PAGB

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Konoba Didov san

Mighty fine wine Basement B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 35 93, info@basement-bar.net, www.basement-bar. net. This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine exploration experience. An exclusive selection of wines from all over the country are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors available at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. JB Dobra vina J-3, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-1) 553 53 10, winebar@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina. hr. A one-of-a-kind wine lovers delight lays nestled within the new Green Gold center just minutes from the main bus station. “Good Wine” is visually captivating with more than 130 wines perfectly preserved in self-serve vino automats lining the ultra modern tapas bar. Round out a visit for a simple nip or a full tasting with the daily special (12:00 - 15:00), a variety of tapas (15:00 - 19:00) or a souvenir from the adjoining cellar. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 110kn). PALGBW Speakeasy C-2, Bogovićeva 4 (Neboder Passage). You would be forgiven for thinking it bigger than it is at first sight, but this is on account of some wonderfully positioned mirrors which somehow give you the sense of the era of prohibition, helped in no small part by the presence of a basement section. This particular Speakeasy is a welcome addition to the City Centre hostelries, with ample seating both indoors, and out. The floor is made from wine crates yet nothing quite so haughty rubs off on the venue or its staff. The cool interior of the Neboder building might prove refreshing in the summer, but they should also provide the customer with ample viewing as the Christmas shopping period gathers pace. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 04:00. BXW February - April 2013

Restaurants Bosnian NEW

Jazz.ba Chevap B-2, Varšavska 8, tel. (+385-1) 955

Kaptol Restaurant, The Westin Zagreb

Vinodol C-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14

27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www. vinodol-zg.hr. Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). PJAGB

Breakfast Day Cafe Savska 144a, tel. (+385-1) 619 16 50, info@daycafe.hr, www.daycafe.hr. One look at these wraps and you’re lip smacking jumping to the counter, not to mention the scrumptious eggs, toast sandwiches, smoothies n sweets with extras on top. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Breakfast from 07:30 - 10:30. (9 - 29kn). Imperial Café Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 459 91 56. What a choice! Omlets, American pancakes, muffins, croissants, cereal or French toast. Happy hour daily from 3pm to 6pm except Sundays! The 18kn coffee n cake or tea n cake is a winner. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (32 - 45kn).

KavaTava A-2, Britanski trg, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 33, info@tomtom.hr. How do you like your eggs? Cooked, scrambled or sunny-side-up? Not to mention bacon n eggs, sausages n eggs, toasts, Yankee Doodle pancakes, cottage cheese with cream, tortillas. And best of all, is served aaalll day long! (14-110)

Stare Skaline C-1, Skalinska 3, tel. (+385-1) 483 86 09. When price and a slice is nice! Pay between (1220kn) and choose from 4 fitting brekky menus. Oops and frappes, frittatas, baklava, fresh squeezed juice… QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (12 - 20kn). Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43,

info@velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Classy chic café with the scent of fresh coffee proliferating. Best of all, the first meal of the day is adorned with toast, eggs, croissant, muesli… Do not miss the house special, sandwich with prosciutto, artichokes and parmesan. QOpen 08:00 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. (10 - 35kn). PJABW

Zagreb In Your Pocket

50 01, www.jazzbachevap.com. Now you can enjoy the tastes and smells of Sarajevo in the center of Zagreb. Famed as the city where the east meets the west, Sarajevo’s delicious kitchen made its culinary mark by combining Austrian, Hungarian, Italian and Turkish dishes. Try out some sarajevski čevapi with a side of ajvar or kajmak. To satisfy your sweet spot, have a piece of Bosnian baklava or tufahija, that will simply melt in your mouth. Sit back and enjoy your meal at a copper covered table in a spacious, arched alcove. Hardwood floors with throw rugs and pictures of Sarajevo give a warm and homey feel. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (12 - 45kn). Sofra K-4, Green Gold Centre, Radnička cesta 52, tel. (+385-1) 411 16 21, info@sofra.hr, www.sofra.hr. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. Also at 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (35 - 98kn). PALGB

International Apetit City B-2, Obrtnički prolaz 7, tel. (+385-1) 481

10 77, sanja@apetit.hr, www.apetit.hr. This ‘oasis of enlightened hedonism’ is the newly opened downtown branch of a favorite Apetit bistro. Ask the helpful-without-hovering staff to compliment their fresh seafood, beef and lamb dishes with a delicate dessert. Designed to offer generously portioned lunch-friendly options, the menu’s tantalizing flavor combinations served in an ambiance of simple perfection stirs the apetite any time of day. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 130kn). PAGW Prasac B-1, Vranicanijeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 485 14 11, info@prasac.hr, www.prasac.hr. Do you know what the word Prasac means in the Croatian language? Pig! And does the expression ‘eat like a pig’ mean anything to you? Well, you can surely treat yourselves at restaurant Prasac with famous chef Dino Galvagno, who is always full of surprises with his exceptional cooking specialties. Dino has been blessed with temperament, knowledge and an excellent feel for the balance of ingredients and spice. The same can definitely be said about the meals. Q Open Mon 19:00 - 23:00, Tue - Sat 12:00 - 17:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 130kn). JAGB Zinfandels C-4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66, www.regenthotels.com. Zinfandels, named after California’s most famous wine grape (believed to have originated on the Croatian Adriatic), specialises in light, Mediterraneaninspired food highlighted with Oriental flavours, using the best of gourmet Croatian produce to create imaginative dishes with a regional heart. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). PAGBW

Japanese Hanafuda H-3, Zagorska 55, tel. (+385-) 091 587 80

33, info@hanafudasushi.com, www.hanafudasushi. com. Aptly named for the traditional playing cards, Hanafuda cuisine sprouts from a love of all things Japanese. Wether as a novice or veteran to sushi, feast your senses where the health benefits of each ingredient is held sacred. Don’t be shy about asking your server for insights!

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Restaurants

Situated outside of the city center, this neighborhood location makes for an invitingly casual yet classy atmosphere. QOpen , Tue 17:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (40 - 80kn). PAGB Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.restaurant@takenoko. hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b, Open 11:00 23:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (70 - 180kn). PAG

Pizza Baschiera H-4, Selska cesta 215, tel. (+385-1) 369

89 99, www.baschiera.hr. Close to Jarun, it used to be the favourite pizza locale. The pastel turquoise and orange seems to take seven years off your life and will have you saying inappropriate and immature things in no time. Youngsters love it. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (38 - 70kn). PAGBSW Duksa K-2, Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, duksa.pizza@gmail.com. It’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top. So we’re pretty thrilled that a new restaurant in town offers just that, along with oodles of charm. Duksa’s pizza menu offers about ten original “designs” with tomato sauce (“red pizza”)

and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”). Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, for example “Shitake Happens”. Buon appetito! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (43 - 55kn). PAGBW Karijola D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16. With a name long synonymous with the best pizza in town, this newly-opened second location has quickly caught the

Pink up your day! 08.03 Friday

Pink Day Zagreb - The 1st International Specialised Festival of Rosé Wines B-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10. New to the calendar and organised by the WOW Association (Women of Wine) who will also be celebrating International Women’s Day. Winemakers, chefs, bakers, wine journalists, sommeliers, bloggers and writers from Croatia and Austria through to Hungary will be partaking in this gastro bonanza. Foremost, this will be a celebration of rosé and sparkling wines mixed with a jamboree of culinary and artistic guests, wine workshops, lectures, round table discussions, book presentations, and more. See topics on raw food by Kredenc, Claire’s Chocolates, a discussion fusing personality and wine choice to wellness wines by Degrassi, and that’s just the appetizer. Charity donations to an ‘Autonomous Women’s House’ will be led by celebrities whilst every donation over 150kn will be rewarded with a key ring by famous designer Karim Rashid and a glass of the finest champagne Elyssia Pinot Noir. By the way, the theme colour is pink so be sure to pink’n up your attire!

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February - April 2013

Restaurants Pizzeria 6 J-3, Medulićeva 6, tel. (+385-1) 484 62

48/(+385-1) 484 65 62, www.pizzeria6.hr. Apart from crusty pizzas and tempting pasta dishes, they also do fried and grilled fish, including papaline and gavuni, which are deep-fried little fishies to be munched whole, a great snack for as little as 15kn. A good place to go as well for a plate salad. Delivery. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (32 70kn). PAG

Seafood

Asia Restaurant

city’s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant layout has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at A-4 Kranjčevićeva 16a. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (42 - 60kn). PTBS Oliva H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. (+385-1) 302 07 77/(+385-) 099 302 07 77, bistro.oliva@gmail.com, www.restoranpizzeria-oliva.com. The joyfully modern décor of this pizza and pasta haven just steps from the Sava river welcomes students and travelers alike for Italian-style favorites in a garden-esque atmosphere. Their commitment to delighting in details permeates every aspect of their offerings, including the roasted Jela ispod peke dishes served family-style for four as well as their off-menu creative twists on other local favorites. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (38 - 350kn). PAVGB

Restaurant Week 08.03 Friday - 17.03 Sunday

Zagreb Restaurant Week

info@tjedanrestorana.com, www.tjedanrestorana. com. Mirroring in the footsteps of major cities across the world, Zagreb’s finest restaurants will once again open their doors to all visitors for one week, offering their finest three-course menus at discounted prices. Book your seats in advance as last year was a succulent success.

Dubravkin put B-1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 49 75, info@dubravkin-put.com, www.dubravkin-put. com. Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable fine-dining affair. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 130kn). PJALGBW Gallo B-3, Andrije Hebranga 34, tel. (+385-1) 481 40 14, gallo@zg.t-com.hr, www.gallo.hr. A pleasant addition to the scene for its delectable feeding options and a seating scenario (terrace!) that kicks tush. Near to the Croatian National Theatre, it`s well suited to a quality meal of business or pleasure. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PARGB Korčula C-2, Nikole Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, restaurant.korcula@gmail.com, www.restorankorcula.hr. Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 120kn). PJAGW

Ribice i tri točkice C-2, Ulica Petra Preradovića 7/1,

tel. (+385-1) 487 21 68, info@ribiceitritockice.hr, www. ribiceitritockice.hr. With colorfully whimsical, dream-like images of the Adriatic adorning each wall and window, treat all your senses to a seaside dinner getaway at Fish and Three Dots in the city’s center. Be sure to ask for the daily specials of fish, fish and more fish offered at this seafood bistro that’s wrapped in the heart-lifting artistry of Rijeka’s Vojo Radoičić. In a rush? Just down the sidewalk toward Cvjetni Trg is their take-away stand with a similarly fish-filled array of offerings. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (28 - 80kn). PA6S

Spice of life Islamic Cultural Center Restaurant K-4, Gavellina

40, tel. (+385-1) 613 71 59/(+385-1) 613 71 62, info@ islamska-zajednica.hr, www.islamska-zajednica.hr. While taking a look at the architecturally impressive Islamic Cultural Center, step just around the corner and grab a bite at the restaurant that’s part of the complex. There’s a large, airy patio with plenty of outdoor seating that overlooks gardens and greenhouses and offers a peak at the Medvednica mountain. The menu is full of Balkan favorites like ćevapi, burek... QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (10 - 80kn). PGB

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

Chic & Cheerful Chez Bardot B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 099 702 26 25, catbardot@gmail.com. French foods, music and chatter enticingly abound in a cozy classically Frenchstyle bistro: the place for meals, drinks, and gatherings of all sizes. Stop in to start the day with a croque-monsieur or croissant; accompany your afternoon aperitif with a platter of French cheeses. You needn’t be a speaker of the French language to enjoy this little haven of francophonie but Chez Bardot is bound to add a bit of très bien to any day. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (48 - 380kn). AB Mali bar D-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 40.

Bistro Tri Praščića

Bistro RougeMarin K-4, Folnegovićeva 10, tel.

(+385-1) 618 77 76. Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home about…to write sonnets about… to declare juicy, beefy goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves. Then there is lešada, seafood, lamb, chicken or beef cooked in salty water with various ingredients for spice. Tasty, healthy and served with potatoes or silver beat. It’s love at first bite and highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 100kn). B

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Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen, meals are by reservation only (served 12:00 - 16:00 and 19:00 - 23:00). QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 70kn). PNB

Tri Praščića B-2, Gundulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 485

63 43. The three little pigs built their bar right: no amount of huffing or puffing will blow down the wall of wines afront this tastfully simple tapas bar. The decor, like the munchies, is minimalistic with maximized taste. Look for the corner building stunningly tiled in Bohemian blue and gold patterns and head toward the artsy 40-somethings lingering outside the neighborhood’s latest and greatest gathering spot. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (15 - 75kn). PJNGW

February - April 2013

CAFéS Art Side of Cafés Blok bar E-2, Tomašićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 455 03

Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14d, tel. (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids.The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is far-reaching. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. NG Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why. This comfy little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Eli’s A-2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, info@ eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. The staff, graduates from the Universita del Caffé di Trieste, can whip up specials such as espresso Romano with grated lemon rind - great for hangovers. Dinky, trendy - DVD rental out back. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PJGW K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJNBX Kota B-2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-) 098 30 00 33. What makes this bar so wonderfully different is that it has been opened as part of a book store for architecture, building, design, photography and all things artistic... You’ll sense this as soon as you grace the hallowed premises which have been decorated exquisitely without being too over the top. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself feeling as if you were in your own living room having a cup of coffee. Moreover, one can also enjoy a glass of wine come Fridays and Saturdays together with some cheese and olives, whilst the sounds of jazz, funk and rock tinkle in the background. QOpen 07:00 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. PBXW MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 80. Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (‘Complaints Book’) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. JBXW Svijet stripa J-2, Ožegovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 095 820 50 20, svijetstripa@svijetstripa.hr, www.svijetstripa.hr. Viewing cafés as “the living room of our lives,” the World of Comics invites us in to enjoy their expansive comic collection. Their devotion to promoting this art form extends from wall coverings to reading rooms and welcomes group events. With free web access, comics in a variety of languages, cozy seating and chillax servers, this is a must-do for comics fanatics and fans-to-be. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PNBXW Zagreb In Your Pocket

66. A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok offers much more than a seat inside aritectural artistry. While sight and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes and smells of fresh bakery sweets and sandwiches that complement the select coffee offerings. Finest of all is the friendly staff, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. PNGBXW Divas D-2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com. The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the hand-sewn menu cards. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PNGBXW Institut Parfumeur Flores B-2, Dežmanov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 54 45, info@flores-group.com, www.flores-group.com. Think twice about coming here if you’ve already been shopping, are in love or have had a busy day. The institute offers a paradise of cosmetics and we also can’t help but nosey into that other section where the divine scents of tea and cakes are set amidst a peaceful atmosphere in a beautiful interior. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PJAGBW Velvet B-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.hr, www.velvet.hr. Velvet used to be a shabby-chic café, a great place to linger over a newspaper in the heart of town. It’s now reopened, and the artiststroke-florist owner now sees that it’s stylish and chic, offering freshly-squeezed juices, pies, soups and biscuits to go with those headlines. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PAGBW

U Dvorištu B - 3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, udvoristucafe@

gmail.com. The latest addition to Zagreb’s Fair Trade cafes slings organic coffee, juices and beers in a recording studio atmosphere. Grab a one-of-a-kind seat next to the tiny yet accustically divine stage during a live indie-rock show or make use of the copious outdoor seating to mingle with the music lovers spilling-over from the adjoining music shop. Any time night or day, being u dvorištu (“in the yard”) is a delight to all the senses. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PENBXW

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Nightlife

Mansion

Alternative

Bars

AKC Medika A-3, Pierottijeva 11, info@pierottijeva11. org, www.pierottijeva11.org. Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community. A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don’t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Working hours on Fridays and Saturdays between 22:00 - 04:00 and on weekdays depending on the request. Check out their website to see what’s going on. Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. This is the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. Q Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. P Kset B-4, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97 58, info@kset. org, www.kset.org. On the cutting edge of all things cool, Kset is gaining a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardry. The mood lighting is the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming very passionate about their worship of this place. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, 20:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. EGW Močvara I-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 68, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web. Prostor Do I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice 4, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28. Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alternative laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights. With a performance selection in constant evolution, music fans of all inclinations are invited to discover each evening what “The Space” will become. Q Open Mon Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PBXW

Kino Klub Grič C-2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03

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06. There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their coolnot-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre’s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. BXW Savska 14 (ex Krivi put) A-4, Savska 14. This nononesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite. Afterall, what’s there not to like about a place that doesn’t bother with a name more than making sure you know where to find them? QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Tituš B-1, Mesnička 47, tel. (+385-) 091 309 58 85/ (+385-) 091 722 60 65, www.inet.hr/~mmasle/. This grotto music café with its décor dedicated to Dillon, Marley and Eastwood adds a taste of the untamed to an otherwise quiet Gornji Grad. Nightly live performances feature up-andcoming local and international muscians.

Jazz in Zagreb Catching a top notch jazz gig in Zagreb is definitely doable, Croatian and international jazz bands perform regularly. In saying that, there is no venue with a regular every day jazz programme and this list will shed light on the fact that certain venues do hold jazz concerts at least once a month. Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04, www.bacchusjazzbar.net Hy Plaza Slavonska avenija (Hypo Centre), tel. (+385-1) 611 54 84. Purgeraj Ribnjak 1, www.purgeraj.hr. Sax D-3, Palmotićeva 22, www.sax-zg.hr. Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall I-3, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. VIP Club C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, www. vip-club.hr. Zagreb Student Centre B-4, Savska 25, www. sczg.hr. Zvonimir Bajsić Studio I-4, Prisavlje 3 (Croatian Television), www.hrt.hr.

February - April 2013

Nightlife

DJ Viktor, Dramatic Club Zagreb

Get there early for a seat or else enjoy a standing-room only chance to get close and comfy mingling with local folk and rock fans. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 02:00. PBXW NEW

Vintage Industrial Bar I-4, Savska cesta 160, tel.

(+385-1) 619 17 15, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com. This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot. Q Open Mon-Thu 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00.

Clubs NEW

Dramatic Club Zagreb C-4, Trg Ante Starčevića 7,

www.dramatic.hr. Open only on Friday and Saturday nights, this is not your usual party scene. Enter a ‘new dimension of clubbing’ and get swept up into a whirlwind of lights in greens, pinks and blues, radiating a span of three floors, up to a rainbow-covered DJ booth, hovering over the dance floor. It’s not just a place to sway to some music with friends, but filled with entertaining dance shows and drama performances. Come join in on all the fun for an unforgettable night. Q Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Hard place J-3, Šubićeva 55/I, www.hardplace.hr. At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With free admission, cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.” Q Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PGX Pepermint B-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb. com, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night whose groovy decor spans twostoreys of dance floors and lava lounges that will whet your party apetite. Q Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PJNGXW Sax! D-3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@sax-zg.hr, www.sax-zg.hr. This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. NX

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Tvornica E-3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 777 86 73, info@tvornicakulture.com, www.tvornicakulture.com. Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check out their website to see what’s going on. Q Open on event nights 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX VIP Club C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, info@vip-club. hr, www.vip-club.hr. This new to-the-scene club came fresh out of the box push-and-play ready. A classically cool jazz club vibe permates the space, as if reverberations of excellent parties past are what truly hang from the walls, creating a tantilizing promise of more to come. With unique weekly line-ups of live performances ranging from turntables and synthesizers to vocalists and instrumental ensembles, your 20 or 30kn is an all-evening pass to carouse amidst some of Zagreb’s best musical performances. Q Open Tue - Sat 20:00 - 05:00.

Pubs Bikers Beer Factory I-4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-)

099 848 56 63, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world. Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. QOpen 08:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PENGB Sheridan’s Pub Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, adriansheridan@gmail.com. Croatia doesn’t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia’s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They’re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you’re fond of your pint of plain then that’s a good thing. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00.

Late night eating American Donut H-3, Krapinska 1, www.american-

donut.hr. Big burgers, various sandwiches, sliced pizza, donuts, and mega muffins to munch… QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6 - 30kn). City Club Grill H-3, Ilica 125, tel. (+385-1) 370 45 85. They offer kebabs, and sis kebabs with all the goodies in between. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. (17 - 27kn). Lokma C-1, Tkalčićeva 59, info@lokma.hr, www. lokma.hr. Original Turkish kebab with traditional Turkish ayran. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20 - 36kn). Pinguin Sandwich bar C-2, Nikole Tesle 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 46. Gourmet standard and toasted sandwiches with prosciutto, grilled chicken and tomatoes plus more… QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. (15 - 30kn). Slatko i Slano C-1, Tkalčićeva 57. Italian delicacies, sandwiches without crust, panna cota, sweet tooth specialties…. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 04:00. (8 - 25kn).

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What to see Essential Zagreb Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This Austro-

Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.

Dolac (Dolac Market) C-2, Dolac bb. Croatia is a

country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.

Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capital

city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).

of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. Classical music concerts are going to be held here on December 26 at 12:15.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) C-1, Kamenita bb. This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith. The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja)

C-1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00.

Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva. You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too!

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square (Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog. The

combination of the outdoor gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) C-1, Trg

svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton

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Zrinjevac Relaxation (Photo by Rocco Zorić)

February - April 2013

What to see

Museums Archeological Museum in Zagreb (Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu) C-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 31 01/(+385-1) 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21

11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Open also on Mondays 3, 10 and 17 December. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) J-4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1)

605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. What makes this museum remarkable is that rather than presenting a globalized, seen-it-all-before narrative of what contemporary art is supposed to be, the collection lets the Croatian avant-garde speak for itself. The country experienced an explosion of vibrant abstract painting in the 1950s, while from the 1960s onwards local artists increasingly abandoned painting in favour of conceptual gestures. Željko Jerman’s 1977 Diary features a picture of the artist captioned by a briefly scribbled thought for each day of the year - like an eerie premonition of Facebook. The rich and occasionally bewildering world of Croatian performance art is best summed up by Mio Vesović’s iconic photos of the 1981 action I Love Zagreb, when art

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Under the Sun Umbrellas (Photo by Vlasta Štalekar)

ist Tomislav Gotovac ran naked towards the main square, pausing occasionally to lie down and kiss the asphalt. Now that’s patriotism for you. From the city centre, the quickest way to get here is to take bus no. 229, 268, 310, 311 or 313 from the main railway station (through the Importanne Mall passage). Or take tram no 6. (in the direction of Sopot), 7 (Savski most) or 14 (Zapruđe). These take you right to the Museum. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. U

Croatian History Museum (Hrvatski povijesni muzej) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 00,

hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. The collection of the Museum includes over 200,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. As this is not its permanent address, while it reopens, only temporary exhibitions are displayed. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

The Observatory (Zvjezdarnica) C-1, Opatička 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 55, info@zvjezdarnica.hr, www.zvjezdarnica. hr. Zagreb’s little known observatory is where you should head to make use of all those wishes you’ve been stockpiling over the years. It is located in the picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town). The building continues to be a key post for scientific observation of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts visitors - both young and old - looking for a peek at stardust. For organized tours admission is 10kn per person. Q Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 20:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

What to see Croatian School Museum (Hrvatski školski muzej)

B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385-1) 485 57 16, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hsmuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović)

A-4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www.drazenpetrovic.net. Basketball fans can pay respect to Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. Visit the exhibition on the ground floor of the Cibona Basketball Tower to learn more about the so called basketball Mozart who died tragically (at the age of 29). Dražen Petrović is a member of the American Basketball Hall of Fame and the museum presents winning medals, letters and gifts from his fans, rewards and a few personal objects which are chronologically showcased. Thanks to the guidance of the excellent staff, visitors are able to learn about his greatness as an athlete and as a human being. If you pre-book for a group of 15 people minimum, then a guide is available in English. People with special needs also have guides. These services do not cost extra. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) B-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 100kn per tour. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn. Free admission on Thu. U

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji Ivan Meštrović) B/C-1,

Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@mestrovic. hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it is here where he complited many of his art works and monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn. Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@ tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

St Mark’s Church (Photo by Kristina Vlakić)

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The Museum of Street Art www.muu.com.hr. Little by little, street art is coming to life in Zagreb. The Museum of Street Art is bringing art to parts of the city which until now didn’t have much in the way of art or culture. Every year since 2010 there have been more and more local and international artists taking part in an event which, over a period of a couple of days, brings to life empty canvases in the shape of walls where fantastic murals and pictures appear, expressing thoughts, opinions, wishes and ideals. Thanks to these artistic interventions today the length of Branimirova ulica is a riot of colour, as are parts of Dugave and Siget. A sculpture made from waste wood has appeared at Meštrović’s art pavillion on Trg Žrtava fašizma, and the neighbourhoods of Trešnjevka, Maksimir, Donji grad, Gornji grad, Peščenica, Susedgrad and Črnomerec each have their own street artworks too.

Artu Ditu

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3,

tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 150kn for every 30 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10-20kn.

The Croatian Natural History Museum (Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej) B-1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 25kn. Family discounts.

The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts (Gliptoteka HAZU) I-2, Med-

vedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 468 60 50, gliptoteka-hazu@ zg.t-com.hr, www.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@mimara.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme.

February - April 2013

What to see

Parks Botanical garden (Botanički vrt) B-3, Trg Marka Marulića 9a, tel. (+385-1) 489 80 60. With over 10,000 plant species, this garden will remind you that indeed yes, there is more to life than cars and fumes of exhaust and high-rises that house humans and computers transferring billions of dollars with clicks of fingers. It was founded in 1890 and seems to be a kind of seductive siren for turtles, pigeons and ducks of all kinds. Great park benches to park yourself upon. Warning: lily pads do not bare the weight of full grown humans. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon, Tue 09:00 - 14:30. Closed November - April 1. Admission free.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt) K-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.

zgzoo.com. A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. Q Zoo is open 09:00 - 16:00, ticket office 09:00 - 15:00. Admission 20-30kn.

Train (Photo by Vesna Špoljar)

Zagreb’s Solar System The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to discover random corners of the city.

Funicular B-2, Tomićeva bb, tel. (+385-1) 483 39 12, javnost@ zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 5kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

The Clock, Tkalčićeva (Photo by Rocco Zorić)

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Mail & Phones Post

Central Post Office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@posta.hr, www.posta.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Post Office D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. (+385-1) 481 10 90, www.posta.hr. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post Office E-4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. (+385-1) 611 90 77, www.posta.hr. Located at the Main Bus Station. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Express Mail DHL I-6, Utinjska 40, Sveta Klara, tel. (+385-1) 665 11 11, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. A Fedex J-6, Buzinski prilaz 36a, tel. (+385-1) 669 50 00, info.hr@rheagrupa.com, www.rhea.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Global Express outskirts, Stupničke Šipkovine 3, Donji Stupnik, tel. (+385-1) 348 46 60, info@global-express. hr, www.global-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Hpekspres D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-1) 0800 20 22 02, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TNT outskirts, Velika cesta 78, tel. (+385-1) 625 44 44, info@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16.00. Closed Sat, Sun. N UPS F-6, Zastavnice 38a, Hrvatski Leskovac, tel. (+385-1) 460 70 00/(+385-1) 345 45 55, overseas@ overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N

City Express Mail Bike Express D-3, Pavla Hatza 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 89 72/(+385-1) 482 89 73, info@bike-express.hr, www. bike-express.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N CityEx K-4, Donje Svetice 40, tel. (+385-1) 0800 303 333, info@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zum Express Jelkovečka 5, Sesvete, tel. (+385-1) 655 03 73, dostava@zum.com.hr, www.zum.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (01 if you’re calling Zagreb for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10kn , Abroad 7,10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1,60 kn , Abroad 3,10 kn

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. Tele 2 D-2, Iblerov trg 6, tel. (+385-1) 638 05 05, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Vip C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. (+385) 091 77 00, www. vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Internet Cafes ArtNetClub C-3, Preradovićeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 455

84 71, artnetclub@email.t-com.hr, www.artnetclub.hr. In Zagreb, everybody kneels and says their evening prayer facing the Art Net Club. Perfectly blending the sensate, emotional and cosmic, this internet café is the definition of what an out of home or office internet site should be. Features: 13 computers, printers, music, chess, MTV2 and drinks. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12kn/h. CyberFunk Cafe B-2, Masarykova 26 (In the court yard), tel. (+385-1) 639 90 70, www.cyberfunkcafe. com. (Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe) An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. One minute costs 0.25kn, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.80kn, scanning is 1.90kn. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kic - Iskon Internet C-2, Preradovićeva 5/I, tel. (+3851) 481 17 58, internet-centar@iskon.hr. Plunk down 15kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Sublink Cybercafe C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. (+3851) 481 99 93, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. The Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. 0.25kn/min. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 00 89, cafe@vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15kn/hr or 1kn/4min. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

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February - April 2013

Getting around Car rental

Buses

Accident (Photo by Vesna Špoljar)

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija

M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. With over twenty local bus lines that ride almost hourly, your daily connection to Rijeka, Split, Zadar and Varaždin is made all the more easier. The length of travel varies depending on whether the new freeway is being used which significantly shortens most routes. For instance, Zadar is approx 3 hours away via freeway. The old roads, which are in some ways more picturesque take longer, so do consider such tips when planning trips. Coach tickets door-to-door Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 15:00, and your tickets are with you by 20:00 the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 50kn for other locations in Zagreb County.

Trains Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) C-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr. Zagreb’s main train station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours.

Petrol stations 0-24 Ina Dubrava, M-1, Dankovečka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 39. Ina Heinzelova, K-3, Ulica Vjekoslava Heinzela 63, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 44. Ina Jagićeva, A-3, Ulica Vatroslava Jagića 31a, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 48. Ina Langov trg, D-2, Trg Josipa Langa 13, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 51. Ina Špansko, F-4, Ljubljanska avenija bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 62. Ina Miramarska, C-4, Miramarska bb, tel. (+385 -) 091 497 13 56. Lukoil, H-3, Zagorska 10, tel. (+385-1) 364 35 46. Ina Stupnik East, H-5, Jadranska avenija bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 60.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. (+385-1) 626 53 33, zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. Also at C-2, Petrinjska 83, tel. 483 64 66. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Zagreb Airport, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Sixt H-3, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 9, tel. (+385-1) 301 53 03, www.sixt.hr. Also at Pleso airport, tel. 621 99 00. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent A-4, Kranjčevićeva 46, tel. (+385-1) 363 03 00, zagreb@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent.net. Also at the Zagreb airport. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. (+3851) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. For information call 060 32 03 20. Getting to the airport hassle free is made easy via taxi (more info about the prices in our Geting Around section) or with the Pleso Airport bus which leaves from the underground sector of the Bus Station. The ticket is a mere 30kn and can be purchased as you board. The trip is 30 minutes and you can see the bus schedule at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or phone (+385-1) 633 19 99.

Taxi Eko taxi Vodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/

(+385-) 060 77 77, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www. ekotaxi.hr. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 8.80kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 5kn whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays. Radio taksi Zagreb D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/(+385-1) 17 77, info@ radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 9.90kn flat fee plus 4.90 kn/ km. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour.You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations. Taxi Cammeo, tel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxi-cammeo.net. These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 15kn which includes the first two kilometers. Every kilometer thereafter comes at a charge of 5kn. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage and all their taxis are equipped with free wireless internet. Baby seats also available but need to be ordered in advance.

Road help (HAK) tel. 1987 zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Getting around Street parking There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 10kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 5kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 2kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 4 hours. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown (including the international code if you’re using a foreign mobile). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 200, 100 or 50kn respectively according to the zone, and can be paid in any post office.

Airline offices Air France A-3, Kršnjavoga 1 (Hotel Westin), tel. (+3851) 489 08 00, mail.cto.zag@airfrance.fr, www.airfrance. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 17, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 33, www.croatiaairlines.com. For flight information call tel. 667 65 55 if you are outside of Croatia and 062 50 05 05 for calls within Croatia. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ČSA C-2, Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-1) 487 33 01, csa.zag@globairgroup.com, www.globairgroup.eu. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Lufthansa, tel. (+385-) 062 22 02 20, www.lufthansa. com. Purchasing your ticket, made easier From the comforts of work, home, or for that matter any destination, simply click here to find out about our special offers.QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. A

Guarded parking Aside from street parking, the only other alternative in securing your four wheeled automobile in Zagreb is guarded parking or an underground/multi-level garage. Regarding prices, most are consistent in charging 7kn/ hour to 17:00 or 18:00, after that it is 4kn per hour. Martićeva 69 (D-2), Palmotićeva 25 (D-3), Ilica 45 (B-2), Petrinjska 59 (C-2), Langov trg (D-1), Kvaternikov trg (J-2), Tuškanac (B-1), Importanne Centar, Starčevićev trg bb (C-4), Impor tanne Galleria, Iblerov trg 10 (D-2), Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17 (C-1), International (near BCI), Čazmanska (C-4), Hypo Centar, Slavonska avenija 6 (I-4), Branimir Centar, Branimirova 29 (D-3), Cvjetni, Varšavska (B-2)

Your partner in Zagreb! Accomodation, public transport, city tourist bus, parking and much more! www.zgh.hr

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Floral Reflection (Photo by Vesna špoljar)

Turkish Airlines D-2, Jurišićeva 12/l, tel. (+385-1)

492 18 55, turkish-airlines@zg.t-com.hr, www.thy.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Public transport Buses, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture or at www.zet.hr. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. SMS Tram. You can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ZG to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiriation time. Trams, tel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Zagreb has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 23:50; the night trams (4 lines) run from 23:50 - 04:30. Schedules can be found at http://www.zet.hr/tramvaj/dnevni.aspx. Tickets purchased outside the ZET vehicles at the kiosk cost 12kn each for daily transport and 20kn for the night rides (00:00 - 04:00), whilst tickets bought inside ZET vehicles cost 15kn for daily transport and 25kn for night transport (00:00 - 04:00), each ticket is valid for 90 minutes one way. Do take note that the cheapest price for ZET Value Cards value costs 10kn. Daily tickets are 40kn, three day tickets cost 100kn, seven day tickets 200kn, fifteen day tickets 300kn, whilst a monthly ticket costs 400kn. Each ticket is clocked upon entering the vehicle, whilst the ticket machines are placed at the front and back door respectively. Just to let you know, if you so happen to board the new high-tech low level trams, you cannot buy tickets from the tram driver therefore the kiosk is your best option. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. Getting caught without a ticket costs an additional 215kn and is not a pleasant experience. Checks are inconsistent but not uncommon. February - April 2013

Shopping majcen-vlajnic@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijakerubin. com.hr. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. (+385-1) 492 08 58/(+385-) 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.tcom.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Modrić C-1, Kaptol 19, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 83, vesna. modric1@zg.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-modric.hr. Expensive and high-quality antiques including furniture, lamps and other homewares. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 481 35 49. Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Art galleries

Boudoir, Rocking Baroque

Shopping centres & Malls Arena Centar H-5, Lanište 32, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, info@arenacentar.hr, www.arenacentar.hr. QOpen

09:00 - 21:00.

Avenue Mall I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1)

659 10 50, office@avenuemall.com.hr, www.avenuemall.com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Centar Kaptol C-1, Nova ves 11, tel. (+385-1) 486 02 41, info@centarkaptol.hr, www.centarkaptol.hr. City Center one East L-4, Slavonska avenija 11D (Žitnjak), tel. (+385-1) 555 69 69, info-east@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. City Centre one West Jankomir 33, tel. (+385-1) 549 40 70/(+385-1) 549 40 71, info@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Cvjetni C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 6, tel. (+385-1) 487 43 70, cvjetni@hoto.hr, www.hoto.hr/cvjetni/sopingcentar/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Importanne Galleria D-2, Iblerov trg 10, tel. (+385-1) 461 95 03, office@importanne.hr, www.importanne.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. King Cross Velimira Škorpika 34, tel. (+385-1) 349 92 28, kingcross@inet.hr, www.kingcross.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Nama C-2, Ilica 4, tel. (+385-1) 480 31 11, www.nama. hr. A collection of Croatian shops. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A West Gate outskirts, Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovac, Donja Bistra, tel. (+385-1) 555 33 33, www.westgate.com.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Antiques Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, Zagreb In Your Pocket

@telier C-2, Ilica 14, www.angels-by-ella.com. Every angel lover will find a kindred spirit in the works of Ella Svilan. Prints, paintings, installations, earrings, t-shirts and medallions are only a few of the media on which her winged wonders make their mark. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N BP atelier E-1, Voćarska 5, tel. (+385-1) 463 31 18/ (+385-) 098 178 04 02, info@bpatelier.com, www. bpatelier.com. Highly reputed Croatian artists are featured. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Deči C-1, Radićeva 19, tel. (+385-1) 483 09 44, galerija.deci@zg.t-com.hr, www.galerijadeci.hr. Features famous Croatian artwork of the painted variety. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A

Gallery Gabriel Glass Art Atelier Staklić - Gabriel Gallery

E-1, Voćarska 25, dominique.juric@zg.t-com. hr, www.vitrajidominique.com. Founded in 1984, Glass Art Atelier “Staklić” is led by Academic painter Dominique Jurić who has mastered the magical technique of making stained glass windows in France and Switzerland. Glass Ar t Atelier ‘’Staklić’’ is the only place in town where you can see a permanent exhibition of stained glass windows by Dominique Jurić. She has held numerous exhibitions both national and abroad and has spread her love of art to the Gabriel Gallery. In addition, original Zagreb souvenirs from the Gabriel’s Gallery production are on sale which represents a series of city motifs (Šestine umbrellas, Lotrščak Tower...) made in glass according to the Tiffany technique. Keep the magic of Zagreb with you with the ultimate glass souvenir. The hosts will kindly meet and greet you and explain the process of making each souvenir. Simply announce yourself earlier by email: dominique.juric@zg.t-com.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

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Shopping

Galerija Grubić C-1, Radićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 33

70, contact@galerija-grubic.hr, www.galerija-grubic.hr. Come here to find the work of Prica, Murtić, Veža, Vojvodić and other Croatian artists. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Harmica C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 68 35, ana.kopjar@zg.t-com.hr, www. galerija-amt-kopjar.hr. Lamps, small pictures, ceramics and Zagreb souvenirs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Mala C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 6, tel. (+385-1) 481 69 54, galerijamala@galerijamala.hr, www.galerijamala.hr. A variety of pictures and sculptures. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Likum B-2, Ilica 40, tel. (+385-1) 484 73 67, www. likum.hr. A Mecca for the art collector, offers a great wealth of Croatian paintings, drawings, crafts and the like. Lots of bright colours and fancy shapes. Expensive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Marisall galerija B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 483 01 78, galerija@marisall.com, www.marisall.com. The gallery sells art works by young and contemporary Croatian artists. A very interesting choice of works, highly recommended to all fans of modern art. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

Souvenirs Brokula&Ž Concept Store C-2, Teslina 9, tel. (+385-

1) 640 68 30, gukni@brokulaz.com, www.brokulaz.com. ‘All that is important, comes from within’, that is the philosophy behind two of Zagreb’s top fashion designers in Bruketa and Žinić.These gents have gone green with an eco-brand of clothing and underwear made of organic cotton and material. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun. A

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Lega-lega B-2, Masarykova 19, info@lega-lega.com,

www.lega-lega.com. The word lega, which is short for a colleague, is slang and especially dear to Osijek locals. At this store you can find notebooks, diaries, T shirts and other products with original designs amidst a sea of offered goods. Choose the one that truly reveals your character the best. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Samoborski kristal D-2, Palmotićeva 12, tel. (+3851) 481 46 03, www.samokristal.com. A rich collection of objects made of glass and crystal with different shapes, colours and patterns which are a result of a 167 year long family tradition of hand craftsmanship. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Zig Zag C-2, Praška 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 63, www. medvescak.com. The ‘bear’ is back with Medveščak! Our favourite ice-hockey club Medveščak has its own fan shop with a whopping amount of merchandise and souvenirs located in the city centre. Its mascot of a bear has become a prized symbol around town. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Art Shops HNK Art Shop B-3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows. Q Usually operates from 10:00 - 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. Msu Shop J-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

www.inyourpocket.com February - April 2013

Shopping More style for less cash

Thesaurus Jewellery

Muo Shop B-3, Trg Maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488

21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A Prostor B-2, Mesnička 5, tel. (+385-1) 484 60 16, mail@multiracionalnakompanija.com, www.prostoreshop.com. Fashion store & art gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. AN Prostor Manufakturne Slobode (PMS) C-2, Tkalčićeva 61. An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate hand-crafts and new age ideas. QOpen 12:00 20:00. Closed Sun. Saša Šekoranja Gallery A-2, Ilica 82, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Famous flower sculptors. Cool goodies for you or a loved one. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N

Delicatessen Bonkulović Delicacies I-2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, info@bonkulovic. com, www.bonkulovic.com. Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Caprilo C-2, Bakačeva ulica 3, tel. (+385-42) 39 96 44. Local dairy specialist Vindija displays its finest in Caprilo delicatessen. This milk-based wonderland provides plenty to taste and enjoy in the heart of the city center. Perfect for a souvenir stop or afternoon snack. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. A Chai - svijet čaja Jankomir 33 (City Centre one West), tel. (+385-1) 387 91 35, kontakt@svijetcaja.com, www. svijetcaja.com. The best quality teas from all over the world, utensils for making and serving tea, Belgian pralines, chocolate and other sweets. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Ekoteka Agra C-2, Nikole Tesle 11, tel. (+385-1) 888 55 34/(+385-) 091 890 78 23, info@ekoteka-agra.hr, www.ekoteka-agra.hr. Traditional Croatian products grown and farmed organically. Purely eco! QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. N Zagreb In Your Pocket

Britanski trg antique market A-2, Britanski trg. Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and international origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity. Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market K-5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Jakuševac. You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the time to relish some of the authentic local food and meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch the bus number 295 at the Glavni kolodvor Station, this line is available only on Sundays and it leaves the Glavni kolodvor at 07:20, 08:00, 08:40, 09:20, 10:00, 10:40, 11:20, 12:00 and 12:40. Tickets purcahsed only with the bus driver are valid on this bus line. The KüüL B-2, Frankopanska 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 90 40. Each item in The Küül is hand-selected to create an enticing collection of unique, vintage and high-end men’s and women’s wear. Feel free to ask the shop’s owner to show you to your next favorite something special. A steady stream of name brand and one-of-a-kind pieces fills the racks of this second-hand candy land. Need a gown for just one night? Ask about renting from a collection including timelessly spectacular dresses. QOpen 11:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. From 50 kn. A Ulični ormar D-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. Classy-cool, new-to-you and take-me-home prices, this spot’s got all the ingredients of a second-hand shoppers’ heaven smack-dab in the city center. The bright and spacious shop offers a boutique-esque atmosphere to browse a collection including pea coats, handbags and unique knits sure to spice up any man or woman’s wardrobe without emptying their pockets. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From 20kn. A

Britanski trg antique market (Photo by Marijana Žvan)

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

take a hike If you’re a fan of the great outdoors and you enjoy a good walk in the hills, you’ll be glad to know that there are tons of things to do in the Zagreb area. The closest hiking spot is of course Mount Medvednica, which is crisscrossed by about 70 hiking trails of varying lengths and degrees of difficulty. The most popular destinations are hiking lodges. Over the weekends, these are buzzing with walkers eager for the tasty and warming food at astonishingly reasonable prices. Apart from about ten hiking lodges on Medvednica, other popular hiking trails end at interesting spots such as the Veternica Cave, the Zrinski Mine, and the fortifications at Medvedgrad, Susedgrad and Zelingrad (of these, Medvedgrad has been renovated while the other two are ruins). “Horvatovih 500 stuba” is another spot worth visiting. Translated as “Horvat’s 500 steps”, these really are 500 steps hewn into the rock by the hand of one Vladimir Horvat (1891-1962), a journalist, publicist, photographer and nature lover who wished to make this part of the mountain accessible for everyone to enjoy. At the bottom of the steps is a valley with a stream where the Medvednica Nature Park public-spirited Mr Horvat built Archives benches and a shelter that you can still use today. Then there’s Kraljičin zdenac, a pleasant spot where you can buy a drink and rest by a natural spring (the “Queen’s Well” mentioned in local legends). There’s the Gorsko zrcalo (“Mountain Mirror”) cliff, used as a climbing wall, and Šumarske jaslice (“The Forester’s Nativity”), where you can see life-size figures from the Nativity carved in wood. Then of course there’s also Sljeme, the highest peak on Medvednica, with its TV tower (it has a café with a terrace offering a fantastic view over the city), plus there’s hotel Tomislavov Dom with its spa and a handful of rustic restaurants nearby. You can buy a map showing mainly the easier routes together with landmarks for 30kn at the Medvednica Nature Park headquarters and at weekends at the Bliznec info point 100m before the headquarters. Also, if you’re a Croatian speaker be sure to visit the blog www.medvednica. info, where you’ll find loads of information, maps, photos and ideas for places to visit. Another mecca for hikers just 30km from Zagreb is Samoborsko gorje, part of the serrated Žumberak upland region close to the border with Slovenia. Like Medvednica, this is a protected nature park and is full of points of interest. There are eight hiking lodges, a number of villages (some of which are abandoned), and there are locals who offer home cooking and refreshments too. The most likely areas for hiking here are Plešivica, Okić, Oštrc (probably easier to climb than pronounce) and Japetić. The field below the Japetić peak (879m) is a favourite takeoff point for paragliders and competitions are regularly held there. The cliff-faces of Okić (halfway between Samobor and Jastrebarsko) have numerous climbing routes, including one named Dragojlina staza after Dragojla Jarnević (18131875), a poet and teacher famous for writing on women’s rights. Not only was she the first woman to climb Okić, she used the toughest approach, with no climbing equipment and barefoot! You can approach these peaks from any number of directions depending on the length and difficulty level you prefer. Maps are for sale in

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Medvednica Nature Park Archives

the tourist information office in Samobor and in the Nature Park centre in Slani Dol. Hiking maps and guides are also for sale in the Croatian Mountaineering Association in Zagreb. You can hike alone or in groups with locals, or you can hire a guide. Simply select your mountain or hill in Croatia, call the Association of Mountain Guides and a qualified mountain guide will lead you wherever your heart desires. If you’d like to join up with local hikers, you can contact one of the hiking associations. These are volunteer organisations and you may not have the luck to reach an English-speaker, so enlist the help of a Croatian-speaking friend if necessary. On the hikes themselves though there are bound to be people who will be glad to speak English with you. Some of the associations in Zagreb are Zagreb Matica (www.zagreb-matica.hr), Grafičar (www.pdgraficar.hr) and Željezničar (www.hpdzeljeznicar.hr).

Tourist Information Medvednica Cr oatian Mountaine ering Association

Kozarčeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 482 36 24, hps@hps. hr, www.plsavez.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Mountain Guides Association Ribnjak 2, tel. (+385-) 253 67 24/(+385-) 253 67 25, www. sgvh.hr. Glavica Hiking Lodge, tel. (+385-) 091 598 61 10. QOpen , Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Grafičar Hiking Lodge, tel. (+385-1) 455 58 44. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Medvednica Nature Park Bliznec 70, tel. (+3851) 458 63 17, info@pp-medvednica.hr, w w w. pp-medvednica.hr. Bliznec Info Centre Open Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Puntijarka Hiking Lodge (Ivan Pačkovski Hiking Lodge), tel. (+385-1) 458 03 64. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Samoborsko gorje Maks Plotnikov Hiking Lodge, Okić, tel. (+3851) 336 17 58/(+385-) 091890 96 24. QOpen , Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Samobor Tourist Board Trg kralja Tomislava 5,

Samobor, tel. (+385-1) 336 00 44, info@tz-samobor. hr, www.tz-samobor.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Željezničar Hiking Lodge, Oštrc, tel. (+385-) 098 948 93 29. QOpen , Sat, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. Žitnica Hiking Lodge, Japetić , tel. (+385-) 098 905 30 18. QOpen , Fri 15:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 23:00.

February - April 2013

Leisure Sport events 28.02 Thursday - 01.03 Friday

Zagreb Snowflakes Trophy

H-3, Dom sportova Sports Centre, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11, www.zagreb-snowflakes-trophy.org.

09.03 Saturday - 10.03 Sunday

The European Cadets Cup In Judo

Sutinska vrela Sports Hall, Podsusedski trg 14, Podsused, www.judo.hr.

15.03 Friday

K-1 World Grand Prix Finale H-5, Arena Zagreb, Lanište 30.

13.04 Saturday - 14.04 Sunday

Croatia Open

G-4/5, Lake Jarun, www.croatiaopen.vsz.hr. e imagination, a goal most artists dream of.

Fitness & Gym Fit I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 15, tel. (+385-1) 652 48 00, www.fit.hr. QOpen 06.00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. A

Forma B-3, Hebrangova 21, tel. (+385-1) 485 64 50,

info@fitness-forma.com, w w w.fitness-forma.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. A Mofit H-3, Zorkovačka 6, tel. (+385-1) 301 21 48/ (+385-) 091 661 20 92, info@mofit.hr, www.mofit.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. A OrlandoFit Fitness & Spa BC D-4, Nova Ves 17 ( Centar Kaptol ), tel. (+385-1) 486 08 05, www. orlandofitnesskaptol.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. N Sporting Gym D-1/2, Schlosserove stube 2, ŠRC Šalata, tel. (+385-1) 455 80 08, www.gladiator.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 20:00. N Vita H-5, Jadranska avenija 2b, tel. (+385-1) 659 31 30, info@vitafitness.hr, www.vitafitness.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AW

Massage Please note: The following services are therapeutic. They DO NOT have erotic content. We ask all readers to kindly respect this. Khao Sun I-2, Medvedgradska 49, tel. (+385-1) 466 76 78, www.zagreb.khao-sun.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Nova Noa F-3, Antuna Šoljana 11, tel. (+385-) 091 731 72 03, info@novanoa.hr, www.novanoa.hr. Q Open 15:00 - 21:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun. Studio Geranij Merlinov put 10a, tel. (+385-1) 343 59 32, www.masazazagreb.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Thai Yoga Massage Gorenci 69a, tel. (+385-1) 373 74 83/(+385-) 091 512 88 41, sasa.sf-lee@inet.hr, www.thaiyogahr.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00 and by prior arrangement.

Spa & Beauty Aspa F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović), tel. (+385-1) 204 18 14, wellness@antunovic.hr, www.

hotelantunovic.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. A City Wellness Center D-3, Draškovićeva 47, tel.

(+385-1) 457 31 25, wellness@gaj-zagreb.hr, www. citywellnesscenter.hr. Q Open 14:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. AL Coner D-3, Trpimirova 2, tel. (+385-1) 539 05 55, welness3@coner.hr, www.coner.hr. Aerobic, fitness, yoga, pilates, wellness, beauty. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. A Hotel Tomislavov dom Sljeme 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-1) 456 04 01, tomislavov.dom@zgh. hr, www.sljeme.hr. Swimming pool, sauna, gym, jacuzzi, solarium, physiotherapy, massage; face and body treatments; slimming, healthy living and his’n’hers packages. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Naftalan Wellness Centre Omladinska 25a, Ivanić Grad, tel. (+385-1) 283 45 55, naf talan@naf talan. hr, www.naftalan.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 21:00. A

Health Dental Polyclinic Dr.Gikić H-4, Ozaljska 128, tel.

(+385-1) 363 16 19, info@gikic.com, www.gikic.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun by request. A Implant Centre Martinko H-3, Hruševečka 7, tel. (+385-1) 364 33 81, info@implant-centre-martinko. com, www.implant-centar-martinko.com. Q Open Mon, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 19:00, Wen 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Opto Centar E-2, Vlaška 64, tel. (+385-1) 468 65 44, www.opto-centar.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Poliklinika Sunce J-4, Trnjanska cesta 108, tel. (+3851) 629 26 00, www.sunce.hr. Zagreb Dental J-2, Rendićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 230 33 18/(+385-) 091 386 25 55, kdoblano@inet.hr, www. zagrebdental.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Fri 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Terme Tuhelj Archives

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Lifestyle directory Pharmacy 0-24 Central pharmacy C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98. Dubrava L-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50. Ilica G-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21. Ozaljska H-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86. Siget I-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.

Dry cleaners & Laundries

Language Schools Berlitz C-2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, berlitz-zg@

berlitz.hr, www.berlitz.hr. Language lessons and business workshops set up for companies with verified innovative methods and standardised programs. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot K-3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.

Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. (+385-1) 461

29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Lavatio I-2, Šestinski kraljevac 16, tel. (+385-1) 562 06 03/(+385-) 095 856 00 05, www.lavatio.hr. Laundry and ironing. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Emergency health care Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel. (+3851) 460 01 11, kdb@kdb.hr, www.kdb.hr. Open 24hrs. Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. (+385-1) 480 32 00. Q Open 22:00 - 06:00, Sun and holidays 24hrs. General Health H-2, Sv. Duh 64, tel. (+385-1) 371 21 11. Open 24hrs.

Zagrepčanka - Photo fragment (Photo by Ugo Zović)

Zagreb Expat Information Traveling allows one to step into a whole new lifestyle, if only for a moment. But what is it that makes some visitors take the plunge and make the stay a permanent one? We asked a few transplanted residents to tell us their Zagreb story… Having first come to Croatia as a high school student ten years ago, Kazuhiro Tamari, age 26, is a truly global citizen with family connections leading him to a host of countries. His careers in acting and tourism open endless doors to keep traveling, meeting people and inspiring anyone he meets and yet Kazuhiro describes Zagreb as the lighthouse he follows to come home.Spomenka “Sami” Matić, age 29, also grew up in an international family and spent the entirety of her adult life as an enthusiastic traveler. When her UK student visa expired, she chose to make a cross-continental road trip before settling down in Zagreb to explore her Croatian nationality by living in the country for the first time. Now, as the manager of Nokturno restaurant and hostel, she delights in remaining a part of the international community through the guests with whom she spends her days and by getting in a little travel herself whenever possible. Fellow travel enthusiast Jelena Pocedić, age 25, grew up in Windsor, Canada hearing proud tales of Croatia’s capital. Returning to her father’s home city four years ago has allowed her to create her own stories of discovering hidden beauty in the pedestrian-friendly city she now calls home. Zagreb’s Medical Studies in English program has allowed Jelena, and many like her whose parents number in the Croatian diaspora, to pursue dreams of a medical career while connecting to her heritage. The same program sealed the deal for Théo Karoumenos, age 30, when he was offered a language teaching position in a city where his wife could continue her medical studies. Living now in his sixth countr y, the adventuresome Frenchman has found Zagreb to be an important part of his growth as a teacher as he’s been able to organize cultural events around the city such as café gatherings, movie

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

nights and even concerts. Florence Nigron, age 45, also works in language education in the association “Jedan Drugi Svijet” (Another World) although it was the humaniatarian group “Enfants refugies du monde” (Refugee Children of the World) that first brought her to Zagreb more than 18 years ago. The French native appreciates the accessibility of cultural events in a relaxed yet productive capital where café culture abounds. Most of all, Florence finds Zagreb to be a city of green spaces and appreciates the serenity that visits to Mirogoj brings. British Council B-2, Ilica 12, tel. (+385-1) 489 95 00, zagreb.info@britishcouncil.hr, www.britishcouncil. org/croatia. British Embassy I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. (+3851) 600 91 00, british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk, ukincroatia.fco.gov.uk/en. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. High Class Relocation Travanjska 4, tel. (+385-1) 557 73 85/091 444 46 36, office@highclass.hr, www. highclass.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Women’s Club A-3, Kneza Borne 2 (Hotel Sheraton), tel. (+385-1) 461 16 60, iwc@ zg.t-com.hr, www.iwcz.hr. Meets every month in Hotel Sheraton and has all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Fun, facts and no boys allowed. Move One Relocations G-3, Županjska 10, tel. (+385-1) 369 23 81/(+385-) 091 444 23 71, croatia@ moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com.QOpen , Mon 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. US Embassy Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. (+3851) 661 22 00, zagreb.usembassy.gov. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zagreb Expat Meetup , w w w.meetup.com/ Zagrebmeetup/. Zagreb Meetup organizes social events up to twice a month, usually Wednesdays.

February - April 2013

Business directory PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Hum-

boldta 4, tel. (+385-1) 632 88 88, fax (+385-1) 611 15 56, www.pwc.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. T&MC C-2, Amruševa 19/II, tel. (+385-1) 481 12 30, fax (+385-1) 481 12 29, www.tmc.hr. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Banks Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-4, Ivana Lučića

2, tel. (+385-1) 062 37 10 00, fax (+385-1) 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen

Photo by Lea Bogović

Accountants & Consultants

Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. (+385-1) 235 19 00, fax (+385-1) 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

ECOVIS UBLI D-2, Jurišićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 550 83 20, office@ubli.hr, www.ubli.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00,

Fri 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. (+385-1) 248 05 55, fax (+385-1) 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hauska & Partner I-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 16, tel. (+385-1) 450 02 22, fax (+385-1) 455 72 18, zagreb@ hauska.com, www.hauska.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. (+385-1) 539 00 00, fax (+385-1) 539 01 11, www. kpmg.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-2, Smičiklasova 21, tel. (+385-1) 481 75 24, mirna@mi-ni.hr. The reassurance you need - our Englishspeaking professionals will take care of your business needs in Croatia from day one. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 25% and affects payments made on all goods and services except bread, milk, books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their incomes. Personal income tax on an employee’s salary is determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 8 800kn and 40% for a net income higher than 8 800kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee’s gross income and the employer pays an additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a temporary account with an authorized business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular company accounts.

Zagreb In Your Pocket

07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Splitska banka D-2, Jurišićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 480 07 77, www.splitskabanka.hr. Free info 0800 21 00 21. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. (+385-1) 480 13 17, fax (+385-1) 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www. volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. (+385-1) 480 83 10, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Business connections American Chamber of Commerce K-3, Radnička

47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483 67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.amcham. hr. A non-profit organization promoting mutual cooperation and friendship between Croatia and the United States, AmCham gets after it in a hurry. More than 150 members, both businesses and individuals can join. Events galore. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of Economy B-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Freephone info:08001852 QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fina - The Finance Agency I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina. hr. Call centre tel. 0800 0080 QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship I-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11/ (+385-1) 610 68 42, info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp.hr.

QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

One stop shop for business! A service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr. Freephone info: 0800 00 80.

Complete listing at www.inyourpocket.com zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Business directory

Lawyers Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian Bar Association) B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616 52

00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Notaries Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga

10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Real estate Ana Zagreb Property B-2, Frankopanska 24, tel.

(+385-1) 484 65 40/(+385-) 091 110 51 11, ana@ zagreb-property.com, www.zagreb-property.com. Looking for that ideal block of land, house or apartment, then look no further as this real-estate agency has well equipped staff that caters towards your every property’need. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 461 30 67/ (+385-) 091 254 43 26, 098 20 69 62, fax (+385-1) 461 26 20, info@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Jones Lang LaSalle B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. (+385-1) 482 61 14, zagreb.office@en.jll.com, www. joneslanglasalle-croatia.com. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Croatian National Theatre (Photo by Josip Bepo Bota)

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber,

D-3, Draškovićeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www.zg.hgk. hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information.

Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. (+385-1) 468 47 03/ (+385-1) 468 47 52, fax (+385-1) 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana.hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb West D-2, Đorđićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 481 18 48/(+385-) 098 23 42 48, info@zagrebwest.hr, www. zagrebwest.hr. Extremely friendly service, they customise their approach to meet your specific needs. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Start a business Six simple steps: 1 Find a lawyer (odvjetnik, advokat, pravnik) Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (B-4) Koturaška 53 tel. 617 12 70, www.odvj-komora.hr or a public notary (javni bilježnik) Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora (D-2) Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, www.hjk.hr who will prepare the necessary papers for company registration. 2 Once the company is registered, have a company stamp (pečat) made. 3 Register at the State Statistical Institute (Državni zavod za statistiku), Ilica 3 (C-2) tel. 480 61 11 to receive a code of activities (šifra djelatnosti) and tax number (matični broj). 4 Register in the VAT (PDV) Register with the Tax Authority tel. 0800 66 99 33 (Porezna uprava). 5 Choose a bank and open a business account. 6 If the company will have employees, register as a payee of health insurance and pension contributions (Hrvatski zavod za mirovinsko osiguranje Trpimirova 4, tel. 459 55 00).

February - April 2013

Street register

Abstraction (Photo by Vesna Špoljar) 29. X. 1918. C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1

Kotarska C-1 Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2 Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1

Paromlinska C-4 Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šetalište B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1

Tomašićeva E-2 Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1 Zvonarnićka C-1

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