Rijeka In Your Pocket No13 by In Your Pocket City Guides

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RIJEKA Summer 2013

Eat your heart out Discover local cuisine and specialties NÂ°13 - complimentary copy rijeka.inyourpocket.com

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Camping in Croatia Starry, starry nights... from every corner of Croatia

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CONTENTS

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Rijeka

Lost? Help is at hand

The Basics

Public transport & Keeping in touch

Introducing Rijeka

Get to know our fair city

Culture & Events

Go crazy!

Camping in Croatia

Tic toc tic toc! A must see collection of classical clocks for lovers of antique timepieces. See more on page 9.

Back to nature

Where to stay

Wherever you lay your hat...

Local Flavour

Fresh and always a buzz

Restaurants

Cafes Sipping Mediterranean style

Nightlife Going down to la-la land

Sightseeing

All the sights you shouldn’t miss 24

For the gourment that lies within

Opatija

Joy in Opatija

Leisure

Swimming and diving

Getting around

Planes, trains & Automobiles

Shopping

Delicatessen

Directory

Usefull adresses

Health tourism

The cure for what ails you

Kvarner

Day trips galore

Maps & Index In appreciation of God‘s gift of nature, visitors can get a breath of fresh air by hiking Lošinj‘s Osorščica Mountan to get spectacular views of Kvarner.

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Street index City centre map City map Country map

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FOREWORD Due to economic changes the city of Rijeka, which is known as the port and industrial city, is slowly getting a facelift and gearing services which more than ever include the sea and its close vicinity into the everyday lives of locals as well as its bypassing visitors. Thus, whilst already having the image as the countries ‘urban capital’ with asphalt, streets, alternative and rock clubs part and parcel of the city, Rijeka now has social hot spots and events by the sea which are commonly associated to the Mediterranean. The city’s new look includes the new and stunningly arranged Ploče beach with top notch facilities, as well as the fresh Ritam s mora festival and a grand spanking new promenade. Alternatively, if you wish to escape the hustle of city life then it is little trouble and hugely advisable to visit the Kvarner islands or find shade in the lush green mountain region of Gorski kotar. Either way, nature’s serenity is aplenty! Speaking of nature, the entire Kvarner region around Rijeka has become somewhat of a health destination due to its location, flora and fauna, sea breeze air and tranquil natural surroundings. A trend in holiday makers combining the fun of a vacation whilst also seeking specific medical treatments is rapidly growing. Our feature has a complete run down on state of the art clinics in dentistry, aesthetic surgery, allergic, therapeutic, and wellness treatments that are second to none and highly recommended. We hope you’ll enjoy reading about everything that Rijeka has to offer making your stay, your way!

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Rijeka In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1845-5514 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja

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It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Tbilisi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributor Nataly Anderson Marinović, Jonathan Bousfield, Frank Jelinčić, Lee Murphy, Martin Mayhew Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Researcher Anita Marinić, Blanka Valić Layout & Design Maja Knezić, Krešimir Šporčić, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Rijeka In Your Pocket team, TZ Rijeka, TZ Opatija, rijeka.photonet.hr Cover: Rijeka Tourist Board Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević zagreb@inyourpocket.com

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992-2013. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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ARRIVING IN RIJEKA Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 to Rijeka. The A8 coast road is spectacular, and great if you have plenty of time, but if you‘re in a hurry its sharp bends can be fatal. Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in coastal areas and on the main routes into Croatia can be very heavy. For the latest traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr.

By plane

By boat An arrival by boat in Rijeka gives you a great view of the grand old buildings lining the quayside and puffing their way up the hillside, with myriad shutters lending a Mediterranean feel. You‘re right in the heart of the city, with the coach and local bus stations close at hand and a taxi rank right there - see the map of the city centre at the back of this guide. You can buy tickets for Jadrolinija ferries at the Jadrolinija office and at European travel agencies using the START booking system. Jadrolinija C-3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. 21 14 44 Ticket sales and exchange bureau. Call 060 32 13 21 for the automated timetable service. ATM outside. Timetable in the window. June - September 30 Open Mon, Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

By bus Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long distance public transportation: it‘s cheap, relatively quick and usually comfortable. Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:00, tel. 060 30 20 10 (automated service, press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info. Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during summer it‘s best to reserve in advance. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs by the big church you see there. Left luggage (garderoba): tel. 33 63 47 the garderoba is inside the station building and is open 06:00 22:00. Toilets: inside the station. Getting to town: See the waterfront? Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just behind the waterfront buildings. Taxis: There‘s a taxi rank at the station, or call (051-if you are calling from mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other taxi companies).

By car From Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fiume” and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local road 8 lead you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked “Trajekt”, are a good orientation point for the centre. From Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70 via Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska Bistrica. You‘ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61 which drops directly down into Rijeka. From Zagreb: The E65 / A6 motorway runs directly from Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the signs where motorways merge at Bosiljevo. The motorway toll costs 60kn in one direction, payable in most currencies and credit cards. From Split: We recommend taking the new A1 motorway from

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Rijeka Airport-Zračna luka Rijeka Hamec 1, Omišalj tel. 84 20 40, 84 12 22, www.rijeka-airport.hr; information@ rijeka-airport.hr Rijeka airport (zračna luka Rijeka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It‘s a tiny airport, but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point, an ATM, a small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toilets, payphones, a post box, and parking. Getting to town: Autotrans buses take you to Rijeka‘s city bus station on Trg bana Jelačića for 50kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. Taxis await your hailing outside the airport.

By train Rijeka Train Station - Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka A-2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, National info line: 060 333 444 www. hznet.hr. Rijeka‘s train station has all the basic services you need. Train services are rather slow, but it‘s a relaxing and inexpensive way to travel. The new HŽ (Croatian Railways) website has good English and German pages featuring ticket prices and connections for domestic and international routes. Ticket office: In the central lobby you‘ll find the ticket office including the international (međunarodni) window,open 09:10 - 20:40 and domestic, open 05:10 - 17:10, Fri and the day before public holidays 05:15 - 20:00. You can buy tickets on board out of hours, but it‘s best to reserve in advance for international journeys. Changing money: There‘s a cash machine en route to the Zagreb platform and 24-hour cash machine outside the station building. There‘s a small exchange bureau in Nikole Tesle Street opposite. Left luggage: Lockers; 04:00 - 23:00, cost: 15 - 20kn per day. Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean. Public phones in front of the station and on platform 1. Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes you to Opatija. Taxis: There‘s a taxi rank outside the station, or call (051-if you are calling from your mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other cab companies).

Tourist information

Tourist Information Center D-2, Korzo 14, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 82. tic@ tz-rijeka.hr tz-rijeka.hr www.tz-rijeka.hr Q 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 -14:00. From September 15 Open 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Rijeka Tourist Board D-2, Užarska 14, tel. (+38551) 31 57 10, tz-rijeka@tz-rijeka.hr, www.tz-rijeka. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kvarner County Tourism Office N.Tesle 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 29 88, fax (+385-51) 27 29 09, kvarner@kvarner.hr, www.kvarner.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kvarner Info - The Gateway to the Adriatic Čikovići bb, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 62 33 33, info@ kvarner.hr, www.kvarner.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. June 20 - September 20, Open 08:00 - 20:00.

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BASICS Customs

Visas

Since Croatia will enter the EU on July 1, there will be no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. Legislation for other non-member states is in the process and we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Since Croatia is becoming a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy has become fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/ embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you‘re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Rijeka significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe‘s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Rijeka General Hospital in Krešimirova 42 (A-2) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

There are plenty of exchange offices around Rijeka, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you‘re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you‘ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Smoking Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you‘re prepared to move inside.

Toilets Rijeka‘s public WCs are clean and free of charge. All offer disabled access. Locations: Corner of Žabica square (C-2) and Trpimirova - by the big church Gospe Lurdske. Corner of Korzo (D-2) and Trg Republike Hrvatske. On the Delta - in the park of the modern bridge (F-2).

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INTRODUCING RIJEKA A word of warning: if you’re travelling by car to Rijeka from Italy, you’ll have a tough time finding your way unless you have a satellite navigation system or know a few words of Italian. Italian road signs don’t show the name “Rijeka”, but “Fiume” – which means “river” in Italian. And guess what “rijeka” means in Croatian? River. Why? Well, take the highway which traverses behind the city and you’ll come to a spectacular gorge through which the river Rječina runs. Travelling the main road into Rijeka itself, you’ll drive right along it. The Rječina was one of the reasons why this area was settled before Roman times – both providing water for life and shelter for the ships of the Liburnians, an Illyrian tribe famed for their skills as sailors. What’s harder to spot today is that the ground under Rijeka bubbles with underground springs. Water is absolutely central to the personality and existence of Rijeka – bright, refreshing, life-giving and always moving on. Although there are traces of Stone Age inhabitation in the area, it was the Liburnians who built the first significant settlement on Trsat hill (or, as they called it, Tarsat), to defend their harbour from attack. The Romans drove out the Illyrians in the 13th century. Trsat ceased to be the most important settlement, as the Romans founded the town of “Tarsatica” on the land where Rijeka’s old centre now lies. The area around St Vitus’ Cathedral was given the name Flumen Sancti Viti after the city’s patron saint. In the 14th century, a powerful family of Croatian counts from Krk Island increased their power over the territories of the mainland. Later, this dynasty took the name Frankopan, and their influence can be seen everywhere around Rijeka – they built the shrine at Trsat, and many churches and fortifications on the coastline, as well as on Krk island itself. Over the centuries that followed, various European powers gained influence over Rijeka and its surroundings, and each left its mark. One of the most influential for the development of the city was the Austrian period, and many of Rijeka’s great buildings were designed by the same people that built the cities of that empire. Rijeka was connected to Vienna and Budapest by road and rail, and proclaimed a free port. These transport links contributed massively to the development of Rijeka as an industrial city. The city’s fortunes shifted as it changed hands, but after reintegration into Croatia after the Second World War, it became one of the driving forces of the economy and is now the third biggest city in the republic after Zagreb and Split. Look over the Rijeka waterfront from a gull’s eye view on the ferryboat, and you’ll encounter a mass of cheeky winks from the shuttered windows of the buildings that line the quayside and clamber up the hills. Rijeka is a window onto the world not only for Croatia, but also for a huge part of Central Europe. Here, the Adriatic bites deep into the European landmass. The Austro-Hungarians turned this to their advantage, and founded one of the Empire’s busiest ports here. Shipping became the second stream of lifeblood for the city – the first, of course, is water itself.

Trsat, Photo by Ivana Stanešić Rijeka, exposed to the wide world for so many years now, is cosmopolitan in outlook and young in spirit - you can feel it as you walk along the elegant Korzo, get to know the history of the city, the forward-looking people and their culture. And it’s capital of Kvarner, which truly has so much to discover. Travel west, and see how the lush Opatija Riviera, dotted with fairytale villas reminds you of the Italian lakelands. Penetrate into the hinterland or head south along the coast road and see a chain of forts, the legacy of the local nobles. Discover the charms of the islands – each one so different, but all surrounded by sparkling sea and a climate that returns to you the life that the hectic pace we live by robs us of day by day.

Karolina Riječka If you notice a lot of references to a certain Karolina when you’re in Rijeka, that’s because she’s a muchloved historical figure from the town. Not without good reason – there’s nothing better than a strong woman, and more courageous than this you could not find. During the Napoleonic wars, a British squadron attacked Rijeka to wrest it from the French, but started a campaign of plunder and torching. Brave (and pretty) Karolina approached the British squadron leader and begged him to spare Rijeka’s people – and, amazingly, he did. Wow, and they didn’t even have Max Factor in those days. Apparently only one cannonball was fired – the one you see embedded in the wall of St Vitus’ Cathedral. Enjoy a drink in the beautiful Karolina bar on Rijeka’s quayside, where you’ll see pictures of Karolina of Rijeka, or try the light, fluffy Karolina cake, a speciality of the Cont patisserie.

Grobnik, Photo by Ivana Stanešić

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CULTURE & EVENTS BASICS

Exhibitions 29.11 Thursday - 27.08 Tuesday

Shapes of time

D-1, Muzejski trg 1/1, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. Hickory dickory dock, here is an exhibition on clocks! As time and space collide, the clock collection of the Rijeka Museum will turn back the time depicting the progress in clockwork making and design between the first half of the 19th until the mid 20th century.Tic toc, tic toc..

17.05 Friday - 15.11 Friday

Theatre and Historical Scenes D-1, The Maritime and History Museum of Croatian Littoral, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78, info@ ppmhp.hr, www.ppmhp.hr. See the history of theatre in Rijeka and how it has become an inseparable part of the city today. Two men devoted to theatre, Andrija Ljudevit Adamić and Ivan pl. Zajc were stalwarts and major contributors to the theatre scene with polished retrospectives exhibited on them as well as the theatre show ‘Exercising of Life‘ which became the spectacle of the century, a show which the city itself was brought to stage.

05.06 Wednesday - 30.08 Friday

Piri Reis - Cartographer of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent D-1, The Maritime and History Museum of Croatian Littoral, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78, info@ppmhp. hr, www.ppmhp.hr. Celebrating the 500th anniversary of the first world map by the famous Ottoman cartographer Piri Reis in 1513! See its replica and his most important works from the period of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent, especially the four replicas of the Eastern Adriatic portolan charts from his pre-modern Book of Navigation (Kitab-i Bahriye).

10.07 Wednesday - 03.09 Tuesday

The 5th World Students‘ Poster Biennial D-1, Muzejski trg 1/1, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. Take a look at the future stars of graphic design with this exhibition organised by the Art Academy of the University in Novi Sad. Students from all over the world have collated about 50 posters in the field of graphic design that we think is divine.

Theatre and Historical Scenes Exhibition

Special events 17.06 Monday - 26.06 Wednesday

Kvarner Festival 2013

Opatija, www.festivalkvarner.com. Warm the cockles of your heart with this music festival in Opatija that amalgamates the beauty of opera and classical music to Croatia‘s historical entry into the European Union. See the likes of Glagolica - A European Musical Language performance fused with ancient Glagolitic 3D images, or Judith, a Biblical story from Renaissance Croatia, to the opera/concert Orlando Furioso.

30.06 Sunday - 25.07 Thursday

Rijeka Summer Nights

tel. (+385-51) 35 59 24, info@rijeckeljetnenoci.com, www.rijeckeljetnenoci.com. Performances, philharmonics, film, opera, theatre, and concerts from jazz to world music ensure that there is something to tickle everyone‘s taste buds. This year is immersed by Croatia‘s entry into the EU when at midnight sharp on July 1st, ‘Ode to Joy‘, the European anthem opens the event followed by fireworks, a procession and a spectacular classical music repertoire by Carl Orff‘s ‘Carmina Burana‘ with over 150 performers. Escape the heat and chill amidst a variety of events where artistic creation is the formula for relaxation. Q Tickets 50 - 150kn available at the Croatian National Theatre Box Office, Verdieva 5a, (+38551) 33 71 14, blagajna@hnk-zajc.hr and www.kulturaplus.com.

8 Celli, Festival Kvarner Archives

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Liburnia Film Festival Archives

01.07 Monday - 07.09 Saturday

Summer on Gradina

R-2, info@bascinskiglasi.hr. Nothing beats a few drinks on a hot summer night then at the Trsat Fortress during ‘Ljeto na Gradini‘. The events runs the entire summer where visitors surcum to the amazing ancient surroundings that encompass music, drama, art and dance across all genres of entertainment; add to that the spectacular view overlooking the lights of the Kvarner Riviera, it‘s truly essential! The programme is a Croatian cultural manifestation with stars of the music scene mixed in with theatre and comedy. International performers are also scheduled so it is best to keep an eye on the timetable. QTickets can be purchased at the Tourist Information Centre on Korzo.

18.07 Thursday - 20.07 Saturday

Republika Fest

www.republika.io/en. A three day world gathering of creative people from progressive culture in the former Rikard Benčić Factory and on the the Josip Broz Tito‘s Peace Ship Galeb (seagull). Through workshops, talks,screenings and content driven by culture and fun for young creative minds, this festival will position Rijeka as the regional centre of creative industry at the international level.

28.08 Wednesday - 31.08 Saturday

The 11th Liburnia Film Festival

Ičići port, info@liburniafilmfestival.com, www.liburniafilmfestival.com. One festival that uncovers a huge slate of Croatian documentaries made over the last year or so. Over 2500 visitors flocked to the Ičići port near Opatija last year to get a firsthand view. Workshops, lectures and concerts add to the event with voting awards handed out by the jury and audience alike! Q All films are with English subtitles and it‘s a free entry for all screenings.

Cinemas Art-kino Croatia A-2, Krešimirova 2, tel. (+385-

Festival Kvarner Archives

04.07 Thursday - 07.07 Sunday

Liburnia Jazz Festival

Opatija, www.liburniajazz.hr. The city of Opatija and its surroundings echo the sounds of jazz each July and as you stroll around the town and turn a corner you may see some trio performing on the pavement, up on a terrace, along the promenade or on the Jazz Boat sailing the Riviera. With 16 concerts and many more performers, you have every reason to jazz it up!

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51) 32 32 61, info@art-kino.org, www.art-kino.org. Devoted to art cinema, Art-kino hosts cycles from the most varied national cinemas and directors. Open - air cinema screenings from June 21st through August 4th. Q Box of fice Open an hour before the first show. Closed August 05 - September 18. CineStar S-3, Ul.Janka Polića Kamova 81a (Tower Center), tel. (+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitzcinestar.hr. Eight-screen multiplex on the top floor of the Tower Center shopping mall, showing first-run international flicks. About one fifth of the seats in the cinema are ‘love seats‘ - double seats undivided by arm rests which are perfect for canoodling couples. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection.

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CULTURE & EVENTS Ljeto na Ljetnoj Opatija‘s Summer Stage has a long tradition of hosting attractive and quality concerts of various genres, from classical music through musicals and operas, to contemporary hip musical genres. Two open air stages located in the beautiful Angiolina Park will draw crowds for film screenings, children‘s theatre shows as well as concerts by hit performers such as Gibonni.

30.06 Sunday

Jalta, Jalta

Deemed by many as the best Croatian musical comedy! Set in Jalta, February 1945, during a conference where Stalin, Churchill and Roosevelt were dividing the world. Their servants Griše, Larry and Stanley were having a war of their own, they steal the limelight and it is on for young and old as they quarrel over territory and much else.

19.07 Friday

Mariachi Los Cabarellos Interestingly, Mariachi Los Cabarellos, comes from Croatia and consists of 12 members. They held their first performance in Zagreb, in 1998, and have performed not only in Croatia, but other European countries and Mexico over the years.

23.07 Tuesday

Culture Centres Alliance Française C-2, Zanonova 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 14 01, www.alliance-francaise-rijeka.hr. Q Open

09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Molekula F-2, Delta 5/1, su.molekula@gmail.com, www.molekula.org.

Sušak House of Culture (Kulturni Dom Sušak)

F-1, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 35 02. Comfy medium-sized venue for plays, modern dance and the occasional art-film season. There‘s a ground-floor cafe and contemporary art gallery too.

Galleries Bruketa 2 F-2, Strossmayerova 1, www.mala-galerija. hr. The Bruketa 2 Gallery is a new showroom for the little Bruketa gallery (Mala galerija) which also promotes gifted young and established artists and is situated over the Riječina river in the Hotel Neboder. Q Open by prior arrangement. Filodrammatica D-2, Korzo 28/I, jolanda.todorovic@ rijeka.hr. An exhibition space in the beautiful building on Korzo where you‘ll also find the Fillodramatica bar. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Free admission. Juraj Klović E-2, Matije Gupca 4a, tel. (+385-51) 33 24 94, hdlur@ri.t-com.hr, www.hdlu-rijeka.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Kortil F-2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70 65/(+385-51) 37 70 51, jolanda.todorovic@rijeka.hr. An exhibition space within the House of Culture on Sušak. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. September Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Mali salon D-2, Korzo 24, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, mmsu-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www.mmsu.hr. A great exhibition space for the Rijeka Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art on Korzo. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. O.K. Gallery F-1, Franje Račkog 24, tel. (+385-) 095 522 36 49, kunsgalerijaok@gmail.com. An exhibition space in the K.U.N.S. (Artist‘s Club on Sušak). Q Open during exhibitions. Admission free.

Kings of Strings Don‘t miss out on seeing trio, Tommy Emmanuel, Stochelo Rosenberg and legendary Vlatko Stefanovski, in their newly formed band, Kings of Strings. Watch them on their tour as they promote their first album, appropriately called, ‚First Step.‘

31.08 Saturday

Gibonni

Croatia‘s captain of musicianship, a singer who oozes soft rock, melody, and soul with his typical Dalmatian roots. Opatija will be sold out in a jiffy upon news of this as Gibonni promotes his first full length album in English entitled, ‘The 20th Century Man‘.

Trsatska Gradina U-1, Petra Zrinskog bb, tel. (+385-

51) 21 77 14. Permanent exhibition A Century of Trsatska Gradina. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

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Pićan 26.-28. 7. 2013.

FESTIVAL NARODNIH PRIČA, LEGENDI I MITOVA ISTRE FESTIVAL OF FOLKTALES, LEGENDS AND MYTHS OF ISTRIA

Ilustrator: Zdenko Bašić

www.legendfest.hr

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CAMPING IN CROATIA

Medveja Autocamp Got heaps of time on your hands this summer but not so much money? Get thyself a tent, dear friend, and indulge in the joys of camping! There‘s 1000km of coast at your disposal in Croatia, and almost as many islands. There are forests and meadows, rivers and mountains, all waiting to be explored on foot, by bike, on horseback or even on your trusty four wheels. Croatia‘s campsites grew up during the 20th century to cater for everyone from inter-railing students to well-off families in motor homes that are better-equipped than many peoples‘ apartments. People love the freedom that camping offers. You can head off on a great road trip, stopping where you fancy. And there‘s something special about crawling into your very own nylon and fiberglass home or lying back in a deckchair while steaks sizzle on the barbecue and cicadas chirrup all around.

Food and drink Camping is a great way to get to know a country. When it comes to mealtimes, you get to choose between sampling local restaurants or exploring shops and markets for local produce. Campsites usually have inexpensive eateries onsite or nearby, and in our experience they‘ve always been fine, serving stuff like grilled mackerel, fried sardines, squid, risottos, grilled meats and salads. And when it‘s time for a light snack, is there any better taste than freshly-baked bread and ripe tomatoes drizzled with home-produced olive oil, eaten in the shade?

Creature comforts The best news is that in recent years the standard of facilities in campsites has improved considerably. Whether you‘re heading for the quietest outpost on the remotest island or the biggest resorts on the tourist itinerary, these days your shower block is mostly modern and clean, while washing machines, fridges and barbecues will probably be at your

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disposal. An increasing number of sites offer facilities for dog owners such as designated beaches and dog showers. Some campsites offer beautifully-appointed mobile homes or bungalows, others have communal areas that look like trendy lounge bars, and an increasing number are open all year and have heated facilities. Many campsites have also have tents and trailers for rent so you can camp even if you don‘t have kit of your own.

Fresh air and exercise Since folks who enjoy camping tend to enjoy the great outdoors, it‘s a happy coincidence that many campsites are located slap-bang next to (or even within) the country‘s national parks and other beauty spots. Most camping facilities are on (or near) the coast, but inland Croatia is finally getting its moment in the sun, with increasing numbers of guests opting for a change from the usual sea and sun combination. Wherever you are there are usually plenty of sports and outdoor activities laid on, from hiking and biking to climbing and diving, to name just a few. On the coast, campsites tend to have the cleanest beaches. On the islands, which offer perhaps the best combination of peace, attractive surroundings and interesting stuff to do, a whopping 98% of Blue Flag beaches are those attached to campsites.

The big campsites Since folks who enjoy camping tend to enjoy the great outdoors, it‘s a happy coincidence that many campsites are located slap-bang next to (or even within) the country‘s national parks and other beauty spots. Most camping facilities are on (or near) the coast, but inland Croatia is finally getting its moment in the sun, with increasing numbers of guests opting for a change from the usual sea and sun combination. Wherever you are there are usually plenty of sports and outdoor activities laid on, from hiking and biking to climbing

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CAMPING IN CROATIA and diving, to name just a few. On the coast, campsites tend to have the cleanest beaches. On the islands, which offer perhaps the best combination of peace, attractive surroundings and interesting stuff to do, a whopping 98% of Blue Flag beaches are those attached to campsites.

Naturist camping The Croatian coast has for decades been a top destination for fans of naturist (clothing-free) holidays. German advocates of the Freikörperkultur (“Free Body Culture”, or “FKK”) philosophy of healthy living helped establish naturist facilities here in the early 20th century. Where you see the FKK sign, that means you‘re about to enter a naturist zone. Nowadays, although you‘ll find naturist beaches at almost every resort along the coast, there are some spots which are particularly well-known for catering for naturists. Examples are Rab island where the first naturist beach was established; the Istrian island of Koversada, one of the largest naturist resorts in Europe; the islet of Jerolim just offshore from Hvar town (Hvar island), and the Valalta complex near Rovinj in Istria. You can choose between fully naturist campsites, clothingoptional campsites and regular campsites with naturist bathing onsite. If you‘re off the beaten track, you‘re sure to find a secluded spot where it‘s perfectly well-tolerated for naturists to sunbathe and swim. Croatia is one of the three countries in Europe with the most naturist camping facilities. Most of them are on the northern part of the coast (Istria and Kvarner). Here are our suggestions: Sovinje (Zadar), Bunculuka (Baška, otok Krk), Nudist (Split), Konobe (Krk), Koversada (Vrsar), Ulika (Poreč), Kamp Baldarin (Mali Lošinj).

Things to do Apart from activities organised by campsites, we recommend the following things to do during your stay.

Istria In Istria, head for Beram, a hamlet of 200 souls where the Church of St Mary on Škriljinah has an amazing fresco of the Danse Macabre dating from 1747. At Bale, a picturesque little inland town that Casanova is said to have visited, in the Ulika gallery you can see dinosaur remains that were found nearby. Pazin in the heart of Istria is noted for its karst cave where the Pazin river plunges underground. The cave is said to have inspired Jules Verne for his fantastic stories. Take a peek into the shipwreck of the Baron Gautsch, an Austrian passenger ship which sank in 1914. It lies 40m below the surface 6 nm southwest of the island and lighthouse named Sveti Ivan na Pučini. The ship is a protected site so diving is only permitted through registered diving centres. It is incredibly well preserved, still displaying its belle époque beauty. And speaking of boats, visit the misleadingly-named Eko muzej Batana at Rovinj, which has nothing to do with organic vegetables but is all about a traditional type of boat, the batana. Abbys of Pazin Pazin, tel. (+385-52) 62 50 40, www. pazinska-jama.com. The Batana Ecomuseum Obala P. Budicina 2, Rovinj, batana@rv-batana.t-com.hr, www.batana.org. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Tickets 5-10kn. The Church of St Mary on Škriljinah Beram, tel. Mrs Šestan, (+385-52) 62 29 03. Q Open by prior arrangement. Ulika Gallery Rovinjska 1, Bale, tel. Bale Tourist Office (+385-52) 82 42 70. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

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Kvarner If you‘re in Kvarner, apart from the sights on our Kvarner (pages 58-61) don‘t miss the old smithy at Dražice (just inland from Rijeka) where you can see how blacksmiths ply their trade. Close by is Gašparov mlin, a well-preserved watermill, one of several at Grobnik. For a tour, contact the Jelenje Tourist Association on 051 297 152. For a great hike, head for Mali Lošinj island and climb the peak of Osoršćica (588m). You‘ll be rewarded by a 360-degree view of Pag and Silba islands, the Istrian peninsula, the mountains of Gorski kotar and the Velebit range. Trails start at Nerezine or Osor (just across the causeway on Cres island). Be sure to take plenty of water and in hot weather start early in the morning. There‘s a mountain lodge open during the summer every day except Mondays. On a cultural note, in Mali Lošinj town, in the museum in the Fritzy palace you can see the Mihičić Collection of contemporary Croatian painting, sculpture and medallions, and the Piperata Collection - 27 works by Italian masters of the 17th and 18th century. Take a step back in time in Rab town on 25-27 July when the Knight‘s Tournament and the Rapska fjera take place. This is the town‘s annual fiesta held in honour of its patron Saint Christopher and King Ljudevit the Great which began 1346. Jelenje Tourist Association, tel. (+385-51) 29 71 52, info@tz-jelenje.hr, www.tz-jelenje.hr. St Gaudent Hiking Lodge Osoršćica Mountain, tel. (+385-) 098 40 34 69. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. The Lošinj Museum V.Gortana 35, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 38 92, www.muzej.losinj.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 5-10kn.

Northern and central Dalmatia If Dalmatia is your destination, we suggest the following. If you‘re travelling from the Zagreb direction, turn off the motorway at Gospić to visit the Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre. Tesla, a massive genius and charming eccentric, was born right here. Ease away your aches and pains at Zablaće, just 9km from the Solaris camp near Šibenik. The medicinal mud here has been proven to be effective in relieving rheumatism.

Don’t Light My Fire Don‘t even think about it. Long, hot summers turn the vegetation in Dalmatia into one huge tinderbox. Wildfires caused by a moment‘s thoughtlessness spread rapidly with tragic consequences for people, wildlife and property, so penalties for culprits are stiff.Here are a few tips to help you avoid hitting the headlines for all the wrong reasons: Litter: We‘re sure you have the good sense and good manners not to leave your litter strewn around the countryside, but be especially aware that discarded glass and plastic can act as a magnifying glass for the sun‘s rays and be a cause of fire. Cigarettes: A tin with a lid or a screwtop container makes a great portable ashtray so you can dispose of your cigarette ends properly in a rubbish bin. If you must dispose of your cigarette end in the countryside, be especially careful to extinguish it properly, and definitely don‘t throw burning butts from the car window. Fires and barbecues: Flying sparks can set overhead trees alight and fires will race over grass and scrub. Look for designated areas in camp sites and nature parks with properly enclosed barbecues. Be sure to have water to hand in case of mishaps, and be sure your fire is properly out before you leave it.

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CAMPING IN CROATIA Or, for a little more action, sign up for the military-style adventures on the islet of Mrčara, close to Lastovo island. Here they offer team building, fitness boot camps and military-themed games. Not so far away on Vis island, be sure to visit the pleasing park in Vis town. Keen botanists might spot an unusual Mazari palm, not often spotted outside Asia and the Middle East. Likewise, on Hvar island nature lovers will have ample chances to see agaves in flower. Agaves flower only after the plant has been growing for 100 years, and after flowering has finished the plant dies. That makes the flower worth seeing in our book. Agaves are among the iconic images of the beautiful green coast of Dalmatia. Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre Smiljan, tel. (+385-53) 74 65 30, www.mcnikolatesla.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 20-50kn.

Southern Dalmatia If Southern Dalmatia is your destination, we recommend a visit to the Narona Archaeological Museum near Metković, where you can learn about the ruins of a Roman temple found here. At Močići you can see an ancient stone carving of the god Mitrej. And towards the very southern tip of Croatia, in the village of Dunave, where the borders of Croatia, Hercegovina and Montenegro meet, you can climb to the Sokol Tower. From here, as you take in the view of the entire Konavle region, you can get a sense of the mighty fortifications that once stood guard over the Republic of Ragusa. Narona Archaeological Museum Vid, tel. (+385-20) 69 15 96, www.a-m-narona.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 20 - 40kn. Sokol Tower Dunave, Konavle, www.citywallsdubrovnik. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn.

Small and family-run campsites Camping these days need not be a spartan, style-free experience. The following campsites offer something special, be it a warm family welcome, concern for good management or a refreshing dose of good design. Kamp Jasenovo (Šibenik), Kamp Maslinik (Punat, Krk island), Kamp Adriatic (Orebić), Kamp Village Zrmanja (Draga, near Obrovac), Kamp Vira (Hvar) - voted best mid-sized campsite in 2012.

Desert island camping If you prefer to get away from everything, and everybody, while you‘re on holiday head for a secluded campsite where you can enjoy Robinson Crusoe style solitude. Try these ones: Kamp Paradiso (Drage, near Šibenik), Kamp Lupis (Pelješac), Kamp Ujča (Senj), Kamp Kate (Mlini), Kamp Aloa (Brač), or Kamp Sloga (Prvić Luka).

Eco-friendly campsites In recent years a growing number of campsites in Croatia have worked hard to achieve certification for environmental standards. Certified camps have clean beaches and water, conserve energy and other resources, prevent pollution and provide recycling facilities. Among the best eco-friendly camps in Croatia are Kamp Krk on Krk island and Kamp Stobreč in Split. Kamp Stobreč in 2009 won a Federcampeggia award for hospitality and environmentally-friendly facilities.

Mobile Homes Love the idea of camping but not so keen to give up your creature comforts? Mobile homes and bungalows may be just what you need. A fair few campsites now offer mobile

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homes or prefab bungalows for rent, which can be surprisingly stylish (not to mention comfortable). This gives you reasonably-priced accommodation in peaceful surroundings with the luxury of your own bathroom. Try Autokamp Slamni on Krk island or Kamp Straško on Pag island.

Campsites Autocamp Draga A. Slatina b.b., Mošćenićka

Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 75 23, fax (+385-51) 73 73 39, info@autocampdraga.com, www.autocampdraga.com. The resort is a delightful haven of green with a sparkling beach, and the camp site is as well-equipped as you could wish - there’s even a night guard. Q Person / per day 38 - 55kn, Children 26 - 37kn, Tent 30 - 38kn, Car 24 - 37kn, Accomodation tax 3.5 - 7kn. hhh Oštro Oštro 16, Kraljevica, tel. (+385-51) 28 12 18/(+385 -) 091 1 2 1 16 5 5 , f a x (+385-51) 28 14 04, ostro@jadranh o te li.hr, w w w. jadran - hoteli.hr. The pine forested Oštro peninsula is close to the village of Kraljevica, and is well known for its pleasant shingle beaches. This peaceful campsite has a shop, restaurant and ice cream parlour, plus you can stay in little camp huts. Dogs allowed 12 - 18kn/per day. Q Person / per day 32 - 45kn, Children 12 - 25kn, Bungalow 277 - 296kn, Plots 45 - 180kn, Admission tax 4.5 - 7kn. TA6LBKW h Preluk G-3, Preluk 1, tel. (+385-51) 62 35 00/ (+385-) 098 44 62 60, info@autocamp-preluk.com, www.autocamp-preluk.com. The Preluk motorist campsite is situated in a small pine and laurel forest next to the sea and a pebbly beach. It is in Preluk, serviced by bus no. 32 which goes to Opatija 2 km away, the tourist centre of the north Adriatic. The camp has capacity for 500 people. Close by is a shop, a grill terrace, a buffet, an exchange office and a disco bar. The camp site offers numerous water sports facilities. Preluk is famous as an excellent spot for windsurfing, especially during the morning hours. From the camp site a beautiful view spreads over the nearby picturesque village of Volosko and the Kvarner islands. The closeness of Opatija provides campsite guests numerous forms of entertainment and cuisine. Q Person / per day 29 49kn, Children 15 - 37kn, Tent 20 - 40kn, Car 23 - 31kn, Camping trailer 35 - 72kn, Accomodation tax 3.5 - 7kn. A6W San Marino Lopar bb, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 77 51 33/(+385-51) 77 51 34, fax (+385-51) 77 52 90, ac-sanmarino@imperial.hr, www.imperial.hr. This great camp is located 12 km from Rab, in Lopar, along an exquisite sand beach making it ideal for families with kids. It has great sport and recreational facilities. Per person you’ll pay 4.20 - 7.5€ per day, children 1.90 - 4€ per child/per day, car and tent 5 - 16.50€ per day and admission tax 0.80 - 1€. Q A6EBKW hhh

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WHERE TO STAY

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi connection

Upmarket Best Western Hotel Jadran S-3, Šetalište XIII divizije

46, tel. (+385-51) 49 40 00/(+385-51) 49 40 11, fax (+385-51) 21 64 58, jadran@jadran-hoteli.hr, www. jadran-hoteli.hr. Rijeka gets its first real seaside hotel back after extensive renovation. The gorgeous period building occupies its own beach in the Pećine neighbourhood, 1km out of the centre (towards Split). It‘s been brought up to 4 star standard, and has a restaurant open to the public, conference facilities and more. Q69 rooms (28 singles €82 - 97, 35 doubles €97 - 114, 3 triples €160, 1 suite €245, 2 Junior Suite €144). PHARUIGBKW hhhh Grand Hotel Bonavia C-2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 71 00, fax (+385-51) 33 59 69, bonavia@bonavia.hr, www.bonavia.hr. The one to choose if you want luxury in Rijeka itself. Right in the old town, in a 125 year-old building renovated in 2000, it‘s part of a luxury chain owned by Mr Štrok, father of Vanya from designer duo Gharani Štrok. Pets welcome free of charge. Q121 rooms (20 singles €130 150, 94 doubles €160 - 205, 6 suites €315, 1 Presidental apartment €650). PJHAR6FLGBKDW hhhh

Mid range Continental F-1, Šetalište Andrije Kačića-Miošića

1, tel. (+385 51) 37 20 08, fax (+385-51) 37 20 09, kontinental@jadran-hoteli.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. This grand Imperial building in the heart of Rijeka overlooks the park by the river in the city centre. Rooms are decent rather than luxurious. The coffee house does great cakes and has a lovely terrace. Breakfast included. Q69 rooms (13 singles €72, 50 doubles €90, 1 triple €122, 4 suites €110, 1 Junior Suite €151). A6K hhh Neboder F-1, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 49 31 40/(+385-51) 49 32 00, fax (+385-51) 49 32 99, neboder@jadran-hotel.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. Recently renovated from top to bottom, the Neboder offers small but neat rooms with crisp lines, new carpets and fittings, and just enough space to fit in a desk, a TV, and a tiny balcony. Although at least one room on each floor faces inland, all the others come with extravagant views of the sea, the port, and central Rijeka‘s rooftops. Built in the 1920s, the building itself (Neboder means ‚skyscraper‘) is something of a monument to Croatian modern architecture. Q54 rooms (8 singles €63 68, 46 doubles €79 - 85). PJHA6ILGK hhh

Hostel Dharma T-3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-51) 56 21 08/

(+385) 095 844 9 567, info@dharmahostels.com, www. dharmahostels.com/hr. Do you need to refill your batteries, rejuvenate you body, mind and spirit then the Hostel Dharma

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Hotel Balatura (Archives) is place for you. Here you can immerse yourself in holistic yoga, anti-stress techniques, meditation. Enjoy Ayurveda workshops, vegetarian cuisine, relaxation and meditation, lectures on a healthy way of life and also relax in the scents of Mediterranean gardens. It is located in the former industrial factory of Vulkan, on the east side of Rijeka. 200m to the sea and 300m from shopping mall Tower Shopping Centre. Of course this haven of tranquillity is smoking and alcohol free. Q 33 dorm beds, 135 - 185kn per person. AGW Kosy E-2, Užarska 1, tel. (+385) 091 361 28 91, hostelkosy@gmail.com, www.hostelkosy.com. Kosy by name, cosy by nature! The entrance to the hostel is in the Old Town, next to the famous leaning tower built in 1377 (and from which the hostel gets its name - kosi meaning “leaning” in Croatian). Each room has a view of Rijeka’s main drag Korzo and the centre stage of Rijeka’s annual Carnival. Kosy is located 10 minutes of walk from the bus station and 1 minute away from the airport shuttle bus stop. The train station is 1.4 km away. All the rooms and dorms in Kosy are decorated individually with shared bathrooms separated by gender. Perfect place for a group stay. Q 19 dorm beds, 135 - 190kn per person. PJAGW Youth hostel Rijeka R/S-3, Šetalište XIII divizije 23, tel. (+385-51) 40 64 20, fax (+385-51) 40 64 21, rijeka@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Rijeka‘s clean and cozy hostel opened in winter 2006 in a fully renovated, fine old building in the genteel suburb of Pećine 15min walk or a short bus ride from the centre of town. Super accommodation, with a great restaurant area and TV room, plus internet point. Prices are per person per night. Q 61 dorm beds, 21.30 - 26€ per person. TAGBKW

Complete listing at rijeka.inyourpocket.com Summer 2013 21.6.2013. 16:58:09

WHERE TO STAY Upmarket Design Hotel Astoria Ulica Maršala Tita 174, Opatija,

Youth Hostel Rijeka

Opatija Cream of the crop Milenij Maršala Tita 109, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 80

07, fax (+385-51) 27 80 21, info@milenijhoteli.hr, www. milenijhoteli.hr. Five star creature comforts in a splendid pink villa (1900s) centrally located right by the town beach. The Millennium is well known for its great wellness centre, and its coffee house is a classy spot to enjoy kaffee und kuchen. Q99 rooms (5 suites €290 - 400, 81 Standard Rooms €180 - 200, 10 Superior Rooms €196 - 216, 3 Deluxe Rooms €206 - 226). PTJHARUIFLEGB KDCwW hhhhh Mozart Maršala Tita 138, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 82 60, fax (+385-51) 27 17 39, info@hotel-mozart.hr, www. hotel-mozart.hr. Housed in a wonderful 100-year-old building that retains much of its period splendour, the Mozart offers bright, high-ceilinged rooms with all the creature comforts. Muted colour schemes provide a soothing dose of style. All rooms come with hardwood floors and balconies, while apartments have canopied beds and whirlpool-style baths. The bottom-floor wellness centre offers saunas, steam baths, hydromassage and a host of beauty treatments in a relaxing, intimate environment. Q29 rooms (26 doubles €180 - 300, 2 Junior Suites €300, 1 Presidental Suite €520). PZHAR6UIFLBKDwW hhhhh

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tel. (+385-51) 70 63 50, fax (+385-51) 70 63 51, info@ hotel-astoria.hr, www.hotel-astoria.hr. An uber-stylish choice, offering neat, modern, design-conscious rooms in an elegantly restored belle-epoque building. East-facing rooms come with great views of Rijeka and the mountains inland. Top floor apartments have the added advantages of hardwood floors and a bathtub in the bathroom. Q50 rooms (46 singles €89 - 130, 46 doubles €119 - 168, 3 suites €219 - 253, 1 Junior Suite €169 - 203). PTAR6UGBKW hhhh Draga di Lovrana Lovranska Draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 41 66/(+385-) 098 32 70 93, fax (+385-51) 29 18 26, info@dragadilovrana.hr, www. dragadilovrana.hr. Reopened after 80 years, this tiny, atmospheric spot on a hill overlooking Lovran has four gorgeous rooms, and a luxury apartment sleeping four with Jacuzzi and open fireplace. We love the harmony of original features and uncluttered contemporary design. Spectacular views and a super restaurant. Q5 rooms (4 singles €78, 4 doubles €98, 1 apartment €206). PAR6LGBKD hhhh Grand Hotel Adriatic Maršala Tita 200, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 90 00, fax (+385-51) 71 90 25, info@ hotel-adriatic.hr, www.hotel-adriatic.hr. Peacefully located a 10-minute walk from the centre, you can choose between renovated 4 star and simpler 3 star rooms, but all guests get to enjoy the pool, natural rocky beach, 8th floor sun terrace, sauna and other fitness and wellness facilities. Prices are subject to change. Q307 rooms (126 singles €90 - 130, 174 doubles €130 - 225, 7 suites €230 - 250). POTHAR6ULEGBKDCW hhhh Milenij Grand hotel 4 opatijska cvijeta Viktora Cara Emina 6, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 80 07, fax (+385-51) 27 80 21, info@milenijhoteli.hr, w w w. milenijhoteli.hr. A brand new complex of four buildings named after the four flowers of Opatija - camellia, magnolia, melia and wisteria. Multifunctional, both business travellers and souls in search of bodily well-being will find all they need here. Q248 rooms (19 suites €280 - 385, 112 Standard Rooms €170 - 190, 117 Superior Rooms €170 - 200). PTJHARIFLEGBKDCwW hhhh Miramar Ive Kaline 11, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 28 00 00, fax (+385-51) 28 00 28, info@hotel-miramar. info, www.hotel-miramar.info. With the turreted Villa Neptune as its centrepiece, the Miramar reopened in Spring 2005 as a spectacular modern wellness hotel. Run by the owner of the Salzburgerhof, voted best wellness hotel in Austria - these people know what they‘re doing. Q102 rooms (80 doubles €110 - 180, 4 suites €195 - 265, 3 apartments €170 - 190, 15 Junior Suites €140 - 160). PZiHAR6IFLEGBKDCw hhhh Park Maršala Tita 60, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 70 62 00, fax (+385-51) 29 37 91, info@hotelparklovran.hr, www.hotelparklovran.hr. Delightful in duck-egg blue, this classic waterfront villa in the centre of Lovran was renovated and reopened in 2005, complete with restaurant, pool, wellness and meeting facilities. One of the embarrasingly few Croatian hotels that currently has disabled access to all communal areas and some rooms. Q54 rooms (3 singles €72 - 103, 48 doubles €30 - 91, 3 apartments €79 - 106). PiTHARUFLGBKDCW hhhh Remisens Hotel Admiral Maršala Tita 139, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. A great choice if you‘re into sport - the Admiral has a large and well equipped

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WHERE TO STAY fitness centre and two clean, good-sized pools (one indoor with warm sea water), a marina and sailing club. Garage 60kn/ day, pets 90kn/day. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q181 rooms (31 singles €142 - 242, 126 doubles €114 - 198, 18 apartments €178 - 354, 6 Captain Rooms €140 - 240). PiHAR6UIFLEGBKDCwW hhhh

Remisens Premium & Romantic Villa Ambasador

Feliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www. liburnia.hr. Right on the water‘s edge, the Ambasador‘s little sister is an agreeable older building, simply and tastefully furnished, surrounded by trees and lawns. You can use the Ambasador‘s facilities, park your car and bring your pets by arrangement for an extra charge. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q49 rooms (18 singles €162 - 276, 19 doubles €126 - 216, 12 suites €178 - 302). PiHAR6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh Remisens Premium Hotel Ambasador Feliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+38551) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia. hr. First opened in 1966, this brash concrete-and-steel cube of a building seems decidedly at odds with its belle-epoque surroundings. Ugly from the outside it may be, but once you get inside the advantages of modern functionalism soon become apparent. All the rooms get a balcony with sweeping views, and the social areas at ground-floor level have an expansive, open-plan feel. Trendy modern artists decorated various parts of the hotel - look out for the Zvonko Lončarić sea-creature mosaic overlooking the indoor swimming pool. The newlyopened wellness centre in the basement offers state-of-theart massage, aromatherapy and chocolate-bath facilities, alongside saunas, steam baths and whirlpools. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q200 rooms (36 singles €172 - 294, 110 doubles €136 - 234, 7 suites €218 - 372, 9 Family Rooms €194 - 330, 12 Executive Rooms €158 - 270, 8 Executive Suites €194 - 330, 18 Junior Suites €194 330). PiHAR6UIFLEGBKDCwW hhhhh Remisens Revital Hotel Kristal Maršala Tita 135, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. Sensibly priced accommodation in a spot where you can take advantage of the wellness facilities in the nearby Grand Hotel Adriatic or Thalassotherapy centre. Rooms are simple, and there‘s a pleasant dining terrace shaded with wisteria overlooking the hotel‘s beach. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Pets 90kn/day. Q130 rooms (33 singles €116 - 200, 97 doubles €90 - 156). PiHAR6UIFLGKDCW hhhh Savoy Maršala Tita 129, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 05 00, fax (+385-51) 27 26 80, info@hotel-savoy.hr, www. hotel-savoy.hr. Charming old seafront hotel dating from 1910 and fully restored in 2004. The neat and comfortable rooms feature a reasonable amount of desk and storage space. Ask for an east-facing room if you want a balcony looking directly out onto the sea. ‘Superior‘ doubles are slightly more spacious than the standard rooms and offer the added advantage of a full-sized tub in the bathroom. There‘s a pool with sun terrace, and wellness centre with weekend programmes. Q32 rooms (2 singles €103 - 112, 20 doubles €146 - 164, 2 suites €240 - 270, 8 Junior Suites €170 - 190). PiOHAUFLGBKDCW hhhh Villa Astra Viktora Cara Emina 11, Lovran, tel. (+38551) 29 44 00, fax (+385-51) 29 46 00, sales@lovranskevile.com, www.lovranske-vile.com. Absolutely one of the prettiest villas and one of the few boutique hotels on the entire Croatian coast, this place is out of this world: the rooms, the

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restaurant, the garden, the pool and the view are all utterly... gorgeous. Breakfast included. No pets. Q6 rooms (6 doubles €226 - 332). PiJHARLEGBKCW hhhh

Old-school charm Bristol Ulica Maršala Tita 108, Opatija, tel. (+385-51)

70 63 00, fax (+385-51) 70 63 01, info@hotel-bristol. hr, www.hotel-bristol.hr. This lovely old wedding-cake of a villa has been renovated, but retains a hushed sense of imperial grandeur, with clean lines and restrained colour. There‘s a Viennese coffee house, restaurant, wi-fi internet, plus conference facilities for up to 130 with full a/v backup. They have new Spa & Beauty area (fitness, Whirlpool, Steam bath, Sauna, treatments for women and for men). Q78 rooms (2 singles €85 - 137, 64 doubles €113 - 178, 2 suites €213- 263, 10 Junior Suites €163 - 263). PTHAR 6UFGBKDW hhhh Imperial Maršala Tita 124/3, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia. hr, www.liburnia.hr. In the heart of Opatija, close to the park and the seafront, the Imperial has seen guests such as Emperor Franz Joseph and Isadora Duncan - it was built in 1885. Its period charm is updated with modern wellness facilities. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q127 rooms (24 singles €90 - 158, 103 doubles €70 - 122). PHA6IGBKW hhh Villa Ariston Maršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 79, fax (+385-51) 27 14 94, info@villa-ariston. hr, www.villa-ariston.hr. In its heyday, the Kennedys and Coco Chanel stayed at this villa, and happily it‘s been brought back to its former glory. The balconies and the view are unsurpassed and the Presidential Suite is splendour itself. The restaurant enjoys a great reputation. Q10 rooms (2 singles €55 - 65, 6 doubles €89 - 110, 1 Presidential Suite €192 - 246, 1 Junior Suite €137 - 164). PHAILGBK hhh

Mid-range Istra Maršala Tita 143, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. On the seafront close to the centre and the town beach, the Istra is well equipped for its class, with an indoor swimming pool and a gym and wellness centre close by. Room service (07:00 - 22:00) and all-inclusive packages ensure you‘ll never go hungry. Pets welcome, 70kn/day. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q130 rooms (28 singles €92 - 162, 102 doubles €72 - 126). PTA6G BKCW hhh Lovran Šetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel. (+38551) 29 12 22, fax (+385-51) 29 24 67, office@hotellovran.hr, www.hotel-lovran.hr. Two beautifully renovated Habsburg villas in the heart of Lovran providing modern comfort and period charm. There‘s a bar, two restaurants, business facilities and a staff who help you enjoy the sea,

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WHERE TO STAY Primorje Upmarket Marina Emila Antića 78, Selce, tel. (+385-51) 76 81 40, fax (+385-51) 76 81 37, info@hotel-marina.net, www. hotel-marina.net. Perhaps the most stunning thing about this bright new hotel near the beach resort Selce is the grassy sunbathing terrace overlooking the sea. There‘s a good indoor pool, rooms are nice and spacious and bathrooms have massage showers, there‘s a playroom and conference and banqueting facilities. Q50 rooms (4 singles €62, 30 doubles €96, 10 triples €134, 6 suites €142). PiTHAR6U FLEGBKDCW hhhh

Mid-range Selce Šetalište Ivana Jeličića 14, Selce, tel. (+385-51)

Lošinj Hotels Archives the town and the surrounding countryside to the full. Q56 rooms (7 singles €40 - 56, 46 doubles €70 - 134, 3 suites €132 - 166). PiHA6DW hhh Mediteran Trg slobode 1, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. Modern and simple, good for families with kids, the location overlooking Mošćenička Draga‘s glorious beach couldn‘t be better. You can use the indoor pool and health centre at the nearby Marina, where you can also organise diving in the pristine sea. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q69 rooms (3 singles €82 - 144, 66 doubles €60 - 108). PiA6ILGBKW hhh

Budget Belvedere Ive Kaline 7, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+3855-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia. hr, www.liburnia.hr. A little out of the centre in a lush, forested park, the Belvedere has a private beach, swimming pool and car park, and is right on the waterfront. It‘s a quiet spot if you need a little rest and recuperation. Prices subject to change. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q95 rooms (13 singles €80 - 140, 82 doubles €62 - 110). A6ILEGBKDCW hh Opatija Trg Vladimira Gor tana 2/1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 88, fax (+385-51) 27 13 17, info@ hotel-opatija.hr, www.hotel-opatija.hr. A fantastic location at the head of the beautiful park square in the very centre of Opatija, the hotel has a beautiful big terrace and tennis courts. The art nouveau interior features a lovely indoor pool, sauna and massage. Rooms are more modestly decorated. Q200 rooms (84 singles €44 - 89, 116 doubles €58 - 112). PTHAR6LBKC hh Villa Amalia Pava Tomašića 2/2, Opatija (Hotel Kvarner), tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. The pleasant lemon-yellow Kvarner was the first hotel in Opatija, while the Amalia annexe was an official residence of the Habsburgs. The park location right on the seafront, period furnishings, pools, sauna and massage centre make it a great stay. Prices are per room and are subject to change. Q31 rooms (1 single €72 - 128, 30 doubles €54 - 98). HA6ILEGBKDCW hh Rijeka In Your Pocket IYP_Template_RIJEKA-Summer_2013.indd 20

76 82 22, fax (+385-51) 76 82 23, info@hotel-selce. com, www.hotel-selce.com. Nicely renovated, this midsized family run hotel has tastefully decorated, spacious rooms with air conditioning and mini bar, a restaurant and conference hall plus great views of the Kvarner gulf. You‘re close to the heart of the lively resort of Selce with good beaches, cafés and restaurants. Q90 rooms (87 doubles €95 - 147, 3 Delux Room €121 - 169). PHARLGKDW hhh

Islands Upmarket Apoksiomen Riva lošinjskih kapetana 1, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 52 08 20, fax (+385-51) 52 08 30, info@ apoksiomen.com, www.apoksiomen.com. In prime position on the waterfront of this lively little fishing town, the hotel named after the bronze statue of a Greek athlete recently found in the waters near here is in a fully renovated captain‘s villa. Comfortable accommodation, stylish surroundings and a friendly, individual approach. Prices are per room per night including breakfast. Q25 rooms (24 singles €79 - 130, 24 doubles €105 - 180, 1 Grand Deluxe Room €194 - 235). PHAR6UGBKW hhhh

Mid-range Bellevue Čikat bb, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 12 22,

fax (+385-51) 23 12 68, hotel.bellevue@jadranka.t-com. hr, www.losinj-hotels.com. Tests by the Innsbruck Institute of Microbiology found a low concentration of allergens here, and you can get non-allergenic bedding and rooms without carpets on request. A lovely warm seawater indoor pool, gym, sauna and massage facilities, conference rooms and woodland location on the Bay of Čikat. Q226 rooms (60 singles €43 - 79, 166 doubles €70 - 154). iHAFG BKDCW hhh

Budget Alhambra Čikat bb, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 20

22, fax (+385-51) 23 12 68, alhambra@jadranka.t-com. hr, www.losinj-hotels.com. Simple and small, but with the good fortune being set in a beautiful Mediterranean villa with lofty ceilings and high windows. You‘re on the bay of Čikat, with its thick pine forests, imperial architecture, good beaches, and a 1km trot from the centre of town. Q29 rooms (29 doubles €52 - 108). iAGBK hh

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LOCAL FLAVOUR

Tržnice Rijeka Archives

Food Markets Visiting a city‘s marketplace is a brilliant way to get a feel for how people live and what you‘ll find on their tables at mealtimes. In Rijeka, an added bonus is that the main city market is also an architectural treasure. The central market (or placa) is set in a fascinating spot behind the old cargo docks right in the heart of the city. At the water‘s edge it‘s fringed with atmospheric old warehouses, some of which are monuments of industrial heritage. On its eastern side it abuts the National Theatre with its graceful square and a complex of elegant buildings built at the end of the 19th century. One of the market buildings itself (the fish market) is a protected cultural monument, so this is one item on the sightseeing agenda you really shouldn‘t miss. Since Rijeka is a coastal city it‘s no surprise that the fish market has always been highly important, and the site of today‘s market is the spot where fishermen have unloaded their catch for centuries. A covered fish market has been here since 1866, and as the city has grown it has periodically been rebuilt to accommodate the needs of the population. The structure you see today dates from 1916. It‘s built in an Art Nouveau style known as the secession style after the artistic movement founded in 19th century Vienna by Gustav Klimt and a bunch of like-minded artists. Of the three market pavilions it‘s the one which most clearly still shows its original structure. However, the fish market is very far from being a still life: it‘s usually thronging with people, as Rijeka‘s citizens do love their fish. The trays of fish laid out are quite a sight: full of silvery sardines, squid and pink Kvarner scampi, there‘s a chaotic symmetry about it which is a favourite subject for photographers. The other two market pavilions date from 1880 and are interesting for their iron construction which was pretty forward-thinking for the time, a herald of the industrial age. In one you‘ll find fresh and dried meats, while the other is for dairy produce. For lovers of good food one fine thing about the market is you can still find smallholders selling their own produce. Look out for bars of butter made at small dairies in whimsical floral moulds, and yogurt, milk and great cheeses from a goat farm on Krk island. In the meat section you‘ll find hand-made dried sausages and local pršut, while the ladies on the upper floor sell home-made cheeses and other bits and pieces. We recommend you try this home-made food. It‘s what the

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locals value most; these are the flavours they remember from childhood. Outside is where the fruit and vegetables are on sale. Here it‘s a free-for-all between traders selling imported goods, local farmers, and ladies with just a few items from their gardens at home. This again is where you find the interesting stuff. Instead of industrially-grown lettuce you can buy handfuls of young lettuce leaves, shaded and speckled with burgundy and pink, tenderly bitter; delicate lamb‘s lettuce, peppery rucola and baby radiccio leavs. In springtime you might see medveđi luk - wild garlic leaves, which are absolutely delicious lightly cooked or in salads. But do be aware that a stray lily-of-the-valley leaf or another impostor that finds its way in can cause fatal poisoning unfortunately it does happen. Another spring treat wi th heal th-gi ving proper ties is asparagus - both the garden variety and its slender wild cousin, which has a stronger flavour. Locals like to lightly blanch it or fry it and serve it with eggs.

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LOCAL FLAVOUR

Dried octopus, a special delicacy, is rarely found at the market nowadays. However, if you find some, make sure you give it a try. Usually, it is prepared in a salad, photo by Dilajla Kržyk Baki Dried figs, glistening olives from an old lady‘s garden… Sensuous cherries to cool you in summer… Locally-grown citrus fruits that render the whole kitchen a scented paradise… And those little stalls with odds and ends that become your favourites… intensely-flavoured herbs that make wonderful teas; delicious, locally-produced honey… Once you‘ve tried the market, there‘s no going back. It‘s an addiction, a necessary condition for life. Then there‘s the flower market by the theatre, the barometer of the changing seasons, and the stalls in the side streets selling clothes and handy accessories. Look out for the many-strutted windproof umbrellas designed to withstand the fierce north wind, the infamous bura, essential if you‘re in town in the winter. And let‘s not forget the cafés and the fast-food eateries. With folks up and about from the early morning, a cup of coffee is an essential part of the day. The cafés around the market buzz with atmosphere as locals, stallholders and shoppers alike, stop for a pick-me-up and catch up with the morning‘s gossip. This is where you can feel the beating heart of the city, a sense which no tourist guide can convey.

Local Dishes Rijeka‘s enviable location where mountains meet sea, where islands meet the rural delights of the Istrian peninsula, allows you to enjoy a great variety of foods, from fish and seafood to meat and game, by way of tender young garden vegetables and scented Mediterranean herbs. You can read more about the benefits of the Mediterranean diet in our Health Tourism pages (pp.51-57); here we‘ll focus on the gastronomy of the region. Let‘s start with the islands. The islands of the Kvarner region, especially Cres and Pag, are known in Croatia for excellent lamb, cheeses and medicinal herbs. The first two are dependent on the latter. It is said that the fine flavour of

The market is open daily from 07:00 to 14:00, and ‘til noon on Sundays. Do go and enjoy the seasonal produce from the whole region, its highlands and islands, and the equally colourful mix of people. Elderly people, young people, working people who grow the produce on sale, men and women. It‘s the real Rijeka.

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LOCAL FLAVOUR the island lamb is thanks comes from the animals‘ pasture on the island hillsides, herbs laced with salt from the wind. Cres and Pag have a number of great eateries where you can enjoy locally-reared lamb - see our Restaurants section. Bear in mind that lamb is naturally at its best in the springtime. This environment is also the reason why the islanders produce excellent sheep‘s milk cheese. Pag island in particular has a long tradition of producing cheese and there are a few good larger manufacturers on the island. A notable one is Gligora - you can call into their factory at Kolan in the central part of the island and taste some of their products As well as being a favourite foodstuff of sheep and goats, the benefits of herbs for humans are well-known. One of our favourite things about Croatia‘s coast is how lush its vegetation is, and the air is redolent of herbs and pine. For this reason, ever since the 19th century people have been sent on doctor‘s orders to the Kvarner coast to recover from illness and allergies. You can buy the distilled benefits of wild herbs in the form of essential oils, balms and strong spirits which have deep roots in folk medicine. Myrtle, bay, strawberry tree, sage and lavender... You can find out more about these herbs by visiting the Garden of Fine Scents at Mali Lošinj town (Ulica Braće Vidulića 68). Still on the islands, we can‘t talk about Kvarner cuisine without mentioning šurlice, a speciality from the island of Krk which you‘ll find throughout the region. This is a type of pasta made by wrapping the dough around a knitting needle. Hand-made pasta with a rich sauce is always a pleasure, and there are many different sauces to choose from, though we‘d say goulash is probably a classic. On the island of Rab, you‘ll probably spot rapska torta (Rab cake). This is a centuries-old recipe that was a favourite of wealthy families during the Venetian Republic. Often shaped like a spiral, a marzipan-like mix of almonds, eggs, lemon and orange peel and Maraschino liqueur is encased in delicate pastry. It‘s usually baked at weddings and other celebrations, and since it keeps for about two months it‘s sold beautifullypacked as a souvenir. Most island villages in the summer months have festivals during which you can sample local delicacies and enjoy music and dancing with the locals. This is a great opportunity to find out more about the local culture, so we definitely recommend you check the festivals out. In the springtime, a brilliant treat is asparagus picked in the wild. Wild asparagus is slimmer than the cultivated variety and has a stronger, slightly bitter taste. It‘s great in risottos and pasta, frittatas, soups and salads. Spring is also the time many love to eat wild garlic leaves, which are fabulous in salads or lightly cooked with potato. Sadly though there have been recent cases of poisoning where even knowledgeable foragers have mistaken other kinds of leaves for wild garlic. Just a few such interlopers can be enough to cause fatal poisoning, so we‘ll leave it up to you whether to risk it. On a more cheerful note, come early summer it‘s time for delicious cherries. The town of Lovran is famous for its large, sweet cherries (trešnje), so be sure to pick up a kilo or three. Lovran is also famous for excellent-quality sweet chestnuts (maruni), and come autumn time you‘ll find chestnut puree in cake shops (slastičarnice), while chestnut desserts adorn many a restaurant menu. Also for the sweet-toothed, Crikvenica town is famous for a special cake, Frankopan torta, made with apricots or peaches, almonds, raisins, pastry, sweet spices and topped with whipped cream. With such ingredients it was clearly a cake for rich families, and indeed it‘s named after the Frankopan nobles. The recipe was among those in one of the first cookery books in central Europe, written by Anna Maria, Princess of Eggenberg, and published in 1686.

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Draga di Lovrana Hotel Archives Finally, if you get the chance to sample real Kvarner scampi do give them a try. Specimens which are as large as they should be are not easy to find these days, so they carry a hefty price tag, but it‘s a real delight. Before we head inland, we ought to mention nearby Istria, which is also famous for asparagus, as well as local truffles, and an indigenous type of cattle called boškarin. If you have time, we highly recommend you explore inland Istria. Its hilltop towns and villages are reminiscent of Tuscany and Provence, and you‘re sure to encounter wonderful food and wine on your travels. Finally, the uplands that frame Rijeka are famous for game, wild mushrooms and berries. At the very least we recommend that on your way to or from the coast you turn off the motorway at any village or town. There you‘re sure to find a restaurant where you can stop for a delicious blueberry strudel. Even better, take a trip up Mount Učka right from Opatija, or head into the Gorski kotar highlands (where you‘ll see idyllic Alpine-style scenery and architecture). You‘ll find hearty mountain food that will sate the most voracious appetites.

Floating Market Not your ordinary market flotation, but a fruit and veg market on the water, a sight you can see in Mali Lošinj town. A couple of boats sell their wares at the water‘s edge. The colourful cargo bobbing about on the waves is perfectly charming!

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RESTAURANTS Chinese Peking P-3, Bože Milanovića 18, tel. (+385-51) 51 30

34. You‘ll find Peking, a comfortable and elegantly-appointed Chinese, in a pleasant residential area just north of the city centre. Thanks to the friendly and efficient service, and the excellent, good-value food (large portions), Peking has established an army of fans in Rijeka. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (25 - 119kn). PALGX Peking Wok C-2, Jadranski trg 4/C, tel. (+385-51) 41 08 88. Newly opened at the western end of Korzo, near the fountains and Erste Bank, a stone‘s throw from the bus station. Enjoy an extensive menu of traditional, authentic Chinese dishes in comfortable surroundings for every occasion from business meetings, family celebrations, weddings, or a simple romantic evening out. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (35 - 95kn). AGBXW

Symbol key P Air conditioning

6 Animal friendly

T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

M Nearby metro station

G Non-smoking

J Old Town location

S Take away

W Wifi

Croatian Konoba Nebuloza F-1, Titov trg 2b, tel. (+385-51) 37

45 01, info@konobanebuloza.com, www.konobanebuloza.com. Although it calls itself a konoba (a kind of traditional inn), Nebuloza is in fact a smart and atmospheric restaurant with a winning combination of modern décor and rustic interior touches. The food focuses on regional favourites, with plenty of fresh fish and seafood. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 80kn) PAW Mornar D-3, Riva Boduli 5a, tel. (+385-) 091 257 12 03. Right by the ferry terminal, a great place for a cheap lunch. Mornar (“the sailor”) serves mainly meat dishes, plus a few fish specialities. Try lamb lešo - cooked with vegetables - or barbecued smoked ribs. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (15 - 45kn). PALGBS

Lavrus Restaurant Archives

Municipium D-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 5, tel. (+385-51)

21 30 00/(+385-) 091 983 13 14, www.municipium.hr. Housed in a historic building (see “What to see”), Municipium is regarded as Rijeka‘s finest and most luxurious restaurant. With traditional Croatian meat and fish dishes, the food is light and sublime. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 150kn). PAGW Ronjgi Ronjgi bb, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 25 60 38, guido@ronjgi.com.hr, www.ronjgi.com.hr. In the hills above Rijeka, great for comfort food, especially game. Meats are delicious, portions enormous and the soup in a bowl made from freshly baked bread is gorgeous. The former home of the composer Ronjgi (museum open weekdays), families with children will feel welcome. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). PALGBX Šmrika Marčelji 15, Viškovo (Pansion Šmrika), tel. (+385-51) 65 10 20, smrika@smrika.hr, www.smrika. hr. A traditional Mediterranean cuisine and dishes include traditional preparation of lamb. Home made wine called ‘eliđo pilato‘ plus many more wines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (50 - 100kn). PTA6ILGBSW

International

Homemade soup

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Kamov C-2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 78 17, www. bonavia.hr. Located in Rijeka‘s top hotel, the Bonavia, this fine restaurant comprises several spaces, each with its own relaxing ambience. Croatian delicacies are imaginatively combined: the squid stuffed with cheese are delicious. Good wines by the bottle or glass; surprisingly reasonable prices. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 110kn). PALGW Sorriso Podkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 63 28 12. Right in the modern pool complex at Kantrida, Sorriso has a terrace right on the beach overlooking the green hills that tumble down to the Opatija Riviera. The menu, which changes every three months to include seasonal ingredients, features light food with interesting combinations of Mediterranean flavours. Choose from salads and fish dishes, plus nice desserts like panna cotta with forest fruits. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (45 120kn). AGBW rijeka.inyourpocket.com 21.6.2013. 16:58:13

RESTAURANTS

Spagho E-2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 31 11 22. This spaghetteria has a wide range of classic pasta dishes, a brief but well-composed pizza menu and specialities such as carpaccio, saltinbocca and steaks prepared in imaginative ways such as with grana padano, rucola and vinegar. With its elegant contemporary décor, excellent kitchen and good wine list, Spagho is highly prized by the locals as spot for a light meal in the city centre. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 22:30. (29 - 160kn). PAGBW

Konoba A konoba is a type of restaurant typical of the Croatian coast - simple and traditional, although some modern versions have gone somewhat upscale, and are great places to experience local atmosphere and cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their catch for them.

Fast Food Hamby E-2, Ante Starčevića 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 06 53, info@hamby.hr, www.hamby.hr. Fast food but not junk - hot and cold sandwiches, burgers - including soya - and pizza cuts. This Hamby at the train station does pasta, gnocci, pizzas and salads too. Lifesaving! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (15 - 25kn). NGB McDonald‘s D-2, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 51 77, www.mcdonalds.hr. If you can‘t bear to be separated from your golden arches, you‘ll be delighted with Rijeka‘s McDs - its in a gorgeous yellow building that used to house Rijeka‘s historic coffee house. Sacrilege! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PAGBSW rijeka.inyourpocket.com IYP_Template_RIJEKA-Summer_2013.indd 25

Arca Fiumana D-2/3, Putnička obala bb, tel. (+385-

51) 31 90 84, arca.fiumana.ri@gmail.com. A nice, simple sea restaurant in a rustic, old-fashioned boat style. Feast on reasonably-priced fish dishes plus šurlice - a pasta speciality from Krk island with goulash or prosciutto and mushrooms. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (20 - 100kn). AGBX Blato F-1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385-51) 33 69 70. In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled floors and dark wood - our team was divided in opinion - charming or socialist? We‘ll plump for the first - this is an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in a local atmosphere. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 70kn). PAG Girica N-2, Vukovarska 65a, tel. (+385-51) 67 72 20, iva_zec@yahoo.com. Named after a little fish whose fate is usually similar to that of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep fried and eaten head, tail and all with a sprinkling of lemon. A good meal is to be had in this pleasantly laid-back family run restaurant in the Rijeka suburbs. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (38 - 150kn). PALG Ive J-2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385-51) 62 62 65. This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family of fishermen, so locals know it‘s some of the freshest seafood to be had. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (18 - 60kn). ALGBXW Tarsa R-2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385-51) 45 20 89, rojan@ri.t-com.hr. The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, country-style surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or cheese with truffles - a speciality from nearby Istria. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (40 - 100kn). PAULEGBS

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RESTAURANTS Volta 15 D-2, Pod voltun 15, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 06.

A friendly place where locals go for marenda (brunch or light lunch). Tuna, shark and “frogfish” are on the menu - no, we‘re not sure about that last one, either! Try coastal specialities such as brudet (fish stew) or bakalar (salt cod). QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 120kn). PNGBW

Out of town Bistro Yacht Club Zert 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27

23 45, info@yacht-club-opatija.com, www.yacht-clubopatija.com. A lovely traditional style restaurant nestled by Opatija‘s little harbour - enjoy a walk through the lovely park to get there. The owners try to make sure that real home cooking and seasonal specialities are on the menu, so it‘s well worth a try. Friendly and comfortable. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). PAGBXW Bracera Kvarnerska 1, Malinska , Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 87 00, info@konoba-bracera.com, www.konoba-bracera. com. This lively restaurant a short walk from Malinska‘s seafront is worth seeking out for great quality seafood and grilled meat dishes, and swift service with a smile. A great choice is a plate of fresh fried “small fish” - sardines or similar. Vitamin rich, and easy on your pocket! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (27 - 300kn). PNGBXW Commodore Liburnijska bb., Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 70 40 49, domicil@ri.t-com.hr, www.restoran-commodore. hr. A large, clean and modern restaurant within the marina complex. A competent kitchen, the restaurant is particularly known for its separate pasta menu which offers specialities from Krk island and Istra. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 360kn). PALGBXW Dopolavoro Učka 9, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 29 96 41/ (+385-) 091 222 53 35, info@dopolavoro.hr, www. dopolavoro.hr. If the heat‘s getting too much for you, head for the top of Mount Učka where you‘ll find a refreshing breeze and this excellent traditional game restaurant with accents of Istrian specialities such as asparagus and truffles. Try the meat ispod peke style - it‘s superbly juicy. Reserve in advance. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Monday. July - August 31 Open 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). ALGBXW Draga di Lovrana Lovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 27 76 89, info@dragadilovrana.hr, www. dragadilovrana.hr. Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you‘ll find fantastic Mediterranean food (including fish they catch themselves) prepared with the utmost care. Try home-made bread and desserts, and drink in the view from the terrace. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Mon 18:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). PALGBX

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Gospoja Frankopanska 1, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, info@gospoja.hr, www.gospoja.hr. Top quality Kvarner specialities, including seafood, home made sheeps‘ milk cheese and šurlice with goulash - a type of pasta which is a speciality of Krk. The owners, the Toljanić family, also make a well-respected bottle of žlahtina, which you can buy to take home. Q April - October 30 Open 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 180kn). PALGBX Istranka Bože Milanovića 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 18 35/(+385-) 098 26 08 35, comeprima@inet.hr. A charming little bistro tucked away in a pleasant street just behind Maršala Tita, Opatija‘s main drag. It offers traditional food from Istria - a region with a very distinct style. A shady terrace and musical accompaniment - worth tracking down. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). PAGBXW Johnson Majćevo 29b, Moščenićka Draga, tel. (+38551) 73 75 78, info@johnson.hr, www.johnson.hr. This family-run restaurant is renowned for its good fish, seafood and wines. It‘s not as elegant as you might expect, since it is quite pricey, but the service and the fine cooking make up for it. On the road towards Mošćenice. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. (75 - 250kn). PALGB Konoba Nada Glavača 22, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+38551) 85 70 65, nada@ri.t-com.hr, www.nada-vrbnik. hr. If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that flies the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the spacious restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie pilgrims - call to reserve in advance). Q April - October 31 Open 12:00 22:00 (70 - 270kn). PALGBX Konoba Ribice Ulica 17. travnja 95, Punat, Krk, tel. (+385-) 091 184 13 01. As the name “little fish” suggests, this is the place you should settle down for a traditional meal of small fried fish with a fresh salad, bread and wine. Simple and healthy. A sweet little place with a lovely garden in the heart of old Punat. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. (30 - 70kn). NGBX Kukuriku Trg Lokvina 3, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 69 15 19, info@kukuriku.hr, www.kukuriku.hr. “Slow food” several courses representing the best of the season, each accompanied by a glass of outstanding wine. With a wonderful location in old Kastav and a terrace overlooking the whole of Kvarner, Kukuriku is a gastronomic highlight of the region. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 130kn). PAGBX Lavrvs Nova cesta 12a, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+38551) 74 13 55, laurus@villa-kapetanovic.hr, www. villa-kapetanovic.hr. Part of the delightful new hotel Villa Kapetanović just outside the centre of Opatija, Laurus has become a culinary force to be reckoned with. The owner personally oversees the restaurant and the supply of fine Croatian wines - always a good sign. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (65 - 130kn). PALGBXW Lovranska vrata Stari grad 94, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 10 50, josipsandra@net.hr. With a gorgeous position in the heart of Lovran‘s old town, directly in front of St George‘s Church, this is a pleasant spot to enjoy a good selection of meat and seafood specialities. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (50 150kn). AGBXW Mali raj Maršala Tita 191, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 40 74/(+385-) 091 470 40 74, info@mali-raj.hr, www.maliraj.hr. Part of a large and upscale guesthouse overlooking the sea, the “little heaven” restaurant offers a huge choice of excellent seafood and meat dishes and good pizzas. Prices are rather reasonable, and the terrace is gorgeous. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 200kn). ALGBX NaJade Maršala Tita 69, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 18 66. Classic good food - fish, seafood and pasta. Najade has a rustic stone interior, a local atmosphere, friendly waiting staff and a lovely terrace overlooking the sea, just by the coast path in Lovran. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn) PAB rijeka.inyourpocket.com 21.6.2013. 16:58:15

RESTAURANTS

Plavi podrum Obala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija,

tel. (+385-51) 70 12 23/(+385-) 098 25 75 73, dkramari@inet.hr, www.plavipodrum.com. A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn). AGB Sv. Jakov Pava Tomašića 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 20 66, info@milenijhoteli.hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr. A beautiful space within the 5 star Hotel Milenij, Sveti Jakov wisely offers a small selection of dishes with local accents, beautifully prepared, at surprisingly sensible prices. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 130kn). PALGBC Villa Ariston Maršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 79, info@villa-ariston.hr, www.villa-ariston.hr. The restaurant of this beautiful small hotel has an imperial-style dining room with a reputation for excellent fish and seafood, and culinary flair drawing on the best of local and international cuisine. With courteous and professional service, we‘re sure you‘ll enjoy it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 130kn). PALGBXW Villa Astra Viktora Cara Emina 11, Lovran, tel. (+38551) 29 44 00, villa.astra@lovranske-vile.com, www. lovranske-vile.com. Intimate dining in the antique dining room of exquisite Villa Astra, one of the loveliest boutique hotels on the coast. The menu is as small and perfectly formed as the hotel, with selected seasonal dishes presenting flavours from Kvarner and Istria. QOpen 18:30 - 22:00. (160 - 300kn). PAGBXW

Pizza Bracera C-2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24 98. A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka opposite - one of Rijeka‘s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay oven are among the best in town, and they do great big crispy salads. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20 - 110kn). PAGBX

Mexican Mexican Cantina Bodega E - 3, Ivana Zajca 10,

tel. (+385-51) 33 57 59, bodegarijeka@gmail.com. What sounds like a cross between a Croatian taverna and a Spanish wine cellar is now a Mexican restaurant! One of the few restaurants specialising in ethnic foods for miles around, it turns out this one is... pretty good. The locals give it rave reviews in any case - especially for its chocolate pancakes, which we are told have driven some devotees to crimes of chocolate passion. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (40 - 65kn). PAGB

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RESTAURANTS Small plates and sweet treats

Kokolo L-2, Zametska 58, tel. (+385-51) 26 33 94,

www.kokolo.hr. On the road leading west from Rijeka towards Kastav, this large pizza and pasta restaurant has a large shaded terrace, a bright and homely interior and a great play area that will keep the ankle-biters occupied for hours. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (20 180kn). PAGBS Pampas V-2, Slavka Krautzeka 49, tel. (+385-51) 21 90 58. A good place to grab a pizza after visiting the pilgrim shrine and fort up on Trsat. A pretty location. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (27- 65kn). PVNGBXSW

Seafood Ice cream is a necessary condition for the continuation of the human race in summer. While you can buy the usual packaged ices (Ledo, with its teddy bear logo, is the Croatian brand we grew up with), don‘t miss the homemade version in a slastičarnica. The water and milk here is fine, so there should be nothing to upset your tum. Slastičarnice are temples to all things sweet. You can also eat cake and drink coffee, soft drinks or a fitting choice of alcohol. Choco bar D-2, Korzo 24a, tel. (+385-51) 58 09 59, chocobarrijeka@kras.hr, www.kraschocobar. com. Chocoholics look out! Dip into this two levelled bar located on Korzo and fill your tender taste buds with the sweets on offer. It‘s a franchise linked to the famous Croatian brand Kraš so you can purchase all their specialties downstairs or even hop on upstairs where you can mellow out and enjoy coffee whilst nibbling on chocolate cookies, sip on chocolate cocktails and more. The interior has a pleasant mix of minimalist furniture with a touch of art deco. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. Sun 08:00 - 24:00. September Open 07:00 - 23:00. Sun 08:00 - 23:00. AB Dolce Bolero D-2, Bazarigov prolaz 2, tel. (+38551) 33 03 43, dolcebolero.ri@gmail.com, www. dolcebolero.hr. A cheerful combination of lemonyellow chairs and brick-red walls provides the perfect background for a happy afternoon spent wolfing down whatever cakes, tarts and custard slices happen to be wobbling around seductively in the display cabinet. Dolce Bolero also make cakes to order. Which is useful if you happen to be planning either a birthday party or a splatter-someone-in-the-face confectionary assault. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PNGB Gelateria Corso D-2, Korzo 20. Light and delicious cakes - some of the best in town, we‘d say. Great coffee too. A perfect terrace for a spot of people-watching on Korzo, and a bright and cheerful upstairs seating area with a view of the decorative buildings opposite. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. PNGB Slatko by Piko Korzo 33b, tel. (+385-51) 58 55 44, www.pikrijeka.hr. This is the first Piko outlet dedicated solely to those with a sweet tooth. They offer a myriad of cakes, pastries, tarts, desserts and fancies. You can even order your own custom made cake for your special celebrations via a unique terminal in the shop. Ingenious! QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00.

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Feral E-2, Matije Gupca 5b, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 74, info@konoba-feral.com, www.konoba-feral.com. Croatian classics - it‘s a simple place with a small menu - which often means that what they do, they do well. Quality wines langush, Dionyses-like, on the list. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 18:00. (23 - 350kn). PAGBXSW Na kantunu E-3, Demetrova 2, tel. (+385-51) 31 32 71/(+385-51) 21 13 62, na.kantunu@email.t-com.hr. Excellent fish dishes and a great wine list at budget prices. A quick and easy eating place - high stools at the tables, but clean and comfortable nonetheless. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 200kn). PAGBXSW Zlatna školjka C-2, Kružna 12a, tel. (+385-51) 21 37 82, zlatna.skoljka@ri.t-com.hr. In the heart of the city, just off Korzo, Zlatna Školjka has long enjoyed the reputation as one of the city‘s classiest restaurants. The seafood is indeed great (meat is on the menu too), and the comfortable interior is a soothing balance of modern seating and quirky antique decorations. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 120kn). PAGBXW

Vegetarian Klub Makrovega E-2, Matije Gupca 7, tel. (+385-51) 32 11 45, makrovega.rijeka@gmail.com. Like many vegetarian restaurants in Croatia, this is a health food club: the idea is you join, pay in advance and eat at reduced rates. However, if you‘re just passing through they‘ll make sure you‘re looked after. The food is prepared using macrobiotic principles, using organic wholefoods, and most items are suitable for vegans. The daily menu offers a mix of dishes at reasonable prices. Fresh juices are also on offer, and the vegan pancakes are a hit with the regulars. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (15 - 25kn). PNG Priroda i društvo juice&smoothie bar E-2, Užarska 14, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 22/(+385-) 097 731 70 22, prirodaidrustvo@rocketmail.com. This is the first juice & smoothie bar in Rijeka. In a cosy, warm and friendly ambience furnished with natural materials and warm colours created by the owners who spent years living in Ireland. They offer twenty kinds of shakes and smoothies with fruits and vegetables, such as the popular Detox or Flu Fighter which do exactly as they say. The drinks are made in front of you so that you know they are one hundred percent natural with no additives, chemicals or concentrates. They also deliver. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. NGBXW Tifan bistro T-3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-) 098 85 00 19, info@tifan.hr, www.tifan.hr. Offers a unique healthy, balanced and tasty lacto-vegetarian menu (no meat, fish or eggs). Freshly prepared food, weekly specials as well as a large selection of soft drinks and sweets can be found 3pm from Mon to Sat with the possibility of home deliveries made in stainless steel containers - not your average foil or polystyrene boxes. Treat yourself! QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (10 - 40kn). PAGBW rijeka.inyourpocket.com 21.6.2013. 16:58:16

CAFÉS

Cukarikafe Archives

Cafes Cukarikafe D-2, Trg Jurja Klovića 4, tel. (+385-) 099

583 82 76, cukarikafe.bar@gmail.com. The old-fashioned huddle of streets just north of Korzo are a fitting place for this delightful little café. The interior is a blend of bright modern colour and old-fashioned furniture, all with an eccentric twist. The drinks menu is just fab: an excellent selection of wines and beers at sensible prices. Nice teas and hot chocolate, good coffee, fresh juices and chilled-out sounds on the stereo… What more could you want? QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PNGBW Ero E-3, Verdieva 3a, tel. (+385-51) 33 79 02. In a lovely and tranquil spot by the National Theatre and the market, Ero has a tree-shaded terrace and is a soothing place to sit inside on rainy days. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 14:00. PNB Ferrari D-2, 128. Brigade Hrvatske vojske 8, tel. (+38551) 33 12 15. It‘s Ferrari red, people. A shady terrace to sit on the square, close to the Bonavia. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PNBX Filodrammatica Bookshop Caffe D-2, Korzo 23, tel. (+385-51) 21 16 96. This stylish café is bang on Korzo and offers a rare selection of coffees, unique to Rijeka as well as yummy snacks and cakes. Its palatial façade was designed in the late 19th century by a nationalized Italian Giacomo Zammattio and is a listed building. If you walk to the rear of the café you‘ll find the VBZ bookshop which stocks all the latest bestsellers and tourist guides. Sit outside and soak up the atmosphere of Korzo, watch the world go by and enjoy a good book too. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Fiorello Pub D-2, Korzo 2D, tel. (+385-51) 33 13 90. A brand new old fashioned style café in shopping central. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 24:00. PNBX Gradina R-2, Petra Zrinskog bb, Trsatska Gradina, tel. (+385-) 091 250 47 79/(+385-) 091 154 10 65. You‘d be mad to miss out on this spectacularly located café bar. Atop a hill in Trsat and overlooking a stunning view of Rijeka city, this café has the perfect surroundings, a well preserved fortress from eons ago. This friendly café is set inside the Elliptical Tower of the fortress - which is in fact an exhibition space. Seating also spills out onto the terrace, the best vantage point for a perfect view of everything including the adjacent, ancient Greek inspired Nugent Family mausoleum. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B

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Iskra D-2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 06.

Zebra print seating and pink neon lighting serve as an unwanted reminder of the 1980s, but Iskra has a nice terrace and a wine cellar. You could do far worse than spend an evening lingering over a bottle of Dingač or Ivan Dolac - both gutsy southern reds. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. PNB Kosi toranj E-2, Pul Vele crikve 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 62 14. Has a nice little terrace by the leaning tower of the Church of St Mary of the Assumption. If it‘s your scene, you might be lucky enough to catch a deep house/electro/breakbeat DJ set come evening. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 24:00. PNBX Latino E-2, Pavlinski trg 4a, tel. (+ 385-51) 33 66 87. A nice arty little café with good cakes. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. PNBX Laval D-2, Riva 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 88 82. Right in front of the ferry terminal, a classy café with a shady terrace and an excellent wine list. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PNBX Mali Cafe D-2, Korzo 18a, tel. (+385-51) 33 56 06/ (+385-) 091 253 79 12, silviomalicafe@gmail.com. One of the nicest cafes, right on trendy Korzo, all sophisticated in black and white. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. PNBX Picasso E-2, Pavla Ritera Vitezovića 1a, tel. (+385-51) 31 54 16, oss@inet.hr. Lively and often spinning house music for the kids, Picasso is bright, clean, air-conditioned and has a dual-purpose terrace for supping coffee and slurping Ledo ice cream. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00. PNGB Piramida F-2, Strossmayerova 12a, tel. (+385-51) 37 11 81. A comfortable little spot on the Sušak side of Rijeka. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PNX Rozi E-2, Pavla Ritera Vitezovića 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 84 23. Favoured by Rijeka‘s student crowd, Rozi is a little scruffy, which gives it a laid-back feel. Cheap drinks and snacks are accompanied by lively music, conversation, gesticulation and mastication. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PNB Striga F-1, Titov trg bb, tel. (+385-51) 37 23 11. In the same building as the Hotel Continental, a most pleasant place to rest and admire the view of the square and watch folk pass over the modern footbridge. Q June - September Open 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri,Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PNBX Voyager A-1, Nikole Tesle 1a, tel. (+385-51) 33 78 95. Not in space, but opposite the railway station, a super (air conditioned) place to while away the time over a drink or snack. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 22:00. PNBX

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NIGHTLIFE

Bars

Tunel Club Archives

Arca Fiumana C-2/3, Adamićev gat bb, tel. (+385-51) 31 90 84, arcafiumanakonoba@gmail.com. This elderly boat, moored on the waterfront, is enjoying an active retirement as a konoba. It has a double life, however, as on weekend evenings it doubles as a lounge bar and nightclub, playing soft rock and house music. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. B Champagne bar Pommery D-2, Korzo 33, tel. (+38551) 21 51 11. Slap bang in the heart of Korzo. This is the stylish place for coffee and exclusive drinks promotions and hot nightlife. Business people, the jet-set, celebrities as well as the locals and tourists sit outside when there‘s a free seat. The place to watch life go by on Korzo and also the place to be seen. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. PB Divan Lounge Bar Shisha Črnikovica 7a, Volosko, balkankolektiv@gmail.com. The term divan comes from Turkish for coffee house, smoking room, a place to sit, talk and hang out. So this is why this newly re-opened bar is furnished with comfortable long couches and ornately decorated surroundings. Enjoy a wide range of flavoured tobacco for smoking hookahs, exotic coffees and teas as well as their preparation. Relax in front of a real fire and indulge in VIP rooms. A real authentic taste of the east located in the Vila Dinka in Volosko between Opatija and Lovran. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Galaxie bar Bože Vidasa bb (Dvorana Zamet), tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 22. Should you find yourself up in the Zamet neighbourhood, you have a good bar in the locality. Head for the new sports centre where you‘ll find this smart bar on the upper plateau. Appropriately enough, there are big screens for watching sports events, but there‘s also a good mix of Croatian and foreign music on the stereo, DJ parties on Fridays and regular live music. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGBX Hemingway Zert 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 23 33, opatija@hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Part of a Croatian chain of fashionable bars inspired by the Daiquirisipping hero, Opatija‘s Hemingway is the most cultish of all, with its semi-circular glass façade gazing out towards the yachts and excursion boats of the town‘s tidy little harbour. There‘s a wealth of Hemingway-related memorabilia on display but the cocktails remain reliable and the mildly upmarket party atmosphere still kicks in at weekends. Besides being a coffee-drinking and cocktail-sipping venue, for several generations now, you can also get your lunch here. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. AGBX Karolina D-2, Gat Karoline Riječke bb, tel. (+385-) 091 490 40 42. Probably the first and last stop for ferry passengers in port of Rijeka, right on the quayside between the moored restaurant and café boats. It overlooks the ferry terminal and the Molo Longo pier which encircles the port itself. During the day, sit outside and soak up the working port‘s life, Rijeka In Your Pocket IYP_Template_RIJEKA-Summer_2013.indd 30

the fishing boats and visiting yachts. At night enjoy well-known and less well-known cocktails served by top barmen and on Fridays and Saturdays experience music chosen by top DJs. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. PNB Maat Bar R-2, Trg Viktora Bubnja bb, Mladost Sports Centre, tel. (+385-) 098 32 81 64. On the ground floor of the big sports complex in the heart of Trsat, this bar “sports” a trendy clientele (sorry!). Both a popular spot for a coffee by day and for evening drinks before hitting town. There‘s a large terrace and relaxed soundtrack, featuring house and r‘n‘b and Croatian music on Fridays. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PLGBX Mirage J-3, Istarska bb. The Mirage bar is on the top level of this smashing new sports centre, pool and beach area. Lounge music soothes the soul by day, while towards evening things get lively. A DJ spins commercial house and techno, and there are occasional live bands. A great spot to watch the sun sink and enjoy a fabulous view over the Opatija riviera. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PBX Modesto E-2, Đure Šporera 8, tel. (+385-) 091 445 04 96. Is a small cafe located in the Old Town, between St. Vitus Cathedral and the leaning tower. It exudes a friendly atmosphere where people can relax and chill. At the weekends this café hangout transforms into a night bar open until 2am with interesting lighting, plenty of space, a DJ who plays everything. Starting the weekend on Thursdays there are promotional prices, themed parties, which makes Modesto and ideal city „warm-up“ for further nightlife. QOpen 06:30 - 05:00, Mon, Wed 06:30 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Nad urom D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera 1 (Ri Department Store), tel. (+385-51) 33 33 38, centar.korzo1@ri.tcom.hr, www.nadurom.com. Nad urom (meaning “above the clock”) describes exactly the location of this café bar because it is located on the top floor of the Korzo shopping centre right next to the city‘s famous clock tower which is the entrance to Rijeka‘s old town. Here you can enjoy the view of the city‘s bustling main drag over your morning coffee. However what also makes this an excellent location is its wide range of evening events. Every weekend it hosts great live music, from jazz to ambient from rock to blues. Not only music, but recently also live stand-up comedy performances from the likes of London Calling and other shows. Their website and Facebook pages are the best places to keep informed. During regular shopping hours entrance is via the shopping centre and outside hours and in the evenings you need to use the lift which is at the rear of the building. QOpen 08:00 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. Pepe Rosso D-3, Verdieva 19a, tel. (+385-51) 31 20 56, www.peperossobar.com. In the lovely old quarter by the ferry terminal, this bar hots up at nightfall to the sound of Latino pasión. Tuesday night is the time to trip to the haughty steps of tango, and regional stars of the salsa scene fly in on Wednesdays. The evenings start with dance classes followed by freestyling till clock strikes two. There‘s a classy drinks menu, book promotions, art exhibitions, live blues and a welcoming atmosphere above all, spanning all age ranges. Which makes it all rather splendid, really! QOpen 07:30 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PAGBW Rakhia bar D-2, Andrije Medulića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 964 0587, davorin.szilvasy@gmail.com. This is the first rakija bar in Rijeka with over 50 kinds of Croatia‘s well-known spirit. It is located in the centre in the Old Town. In this extremely pleasant and charming atmosphere done out with little details this is the place where you have the chance to try rare brandies of elderflower and anise with gold leaf as well as brandy truffles, brandy carob and many more. QOpen 08:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PBXW Sabrage R-2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37, www.sabragebar.com/home/trsat. Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old Trsat is unsurpassed.

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NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE Inside, antiques cushion your bones and jazz sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu (excellent wines) challenges your decision-making abilities, and the goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent indeed. QOpen 07:00 02:00. PENBX Sky Bar D-2, Korzo 11, sky@sky-bar.hr. In the centre of Rijeka with a magical view of Korzo, Rijeka and the quayside, you need to take the lift to the rooftop of Korzo 11. They serve the excellent coffee, refreshing smoothies made from natural fruits, a wide selection of beers and soft drinks as well as cocktails. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. Teta Roža S-3, Kumičićeva 55a, tel. (+385-) 098 137 61 19. Possibly the best of Rijeka‘s neighbourhood bars, with a marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and a more arty space at the back featuring paintings on the walls, chairs on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent jazz and rock gigs. About twenty minutes‘ walk northeast of town on the main road to Trsat it‘s hardly central, but with Austrian Hirter beer on draught, alongside Duvel, Corsendonk and other Belgian speciality beers by the bottle, Auntie Rosie‘s place is well worth struggling up the hill for. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PNBX

Clubs Boa E-2, Ante Starčevića 8, tel. (+385-) 091 339 93 39, www.clubboa.com. This confection reminds one of a chocolate box, with feminine cream and lilac colouring. Relentlessly modern in design, this is one of the city centre‘s poshest spots for sipping drinks and nibbling cakey things. In the evening it pumps out commercial house, attracting a dressed-up crowd out to be seen. The occasional star of the Croatian music scene graces Boa with a live performance. QOpen 06:00 - 02:00, Fri 06:00 - 05:00, Sat 07:00 - 05:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. PNB Disco Seven Maršala Tita 125, Opatija, tel. (+385-) 098 45 08 47. Perhaps the most stylish summer discoteque in Opatija is Disco Seven, located right on the beach next to Hemingway Bar. House is typically the music du jour. Q Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. July, August Open 21:00 - 06:00. PNGBX Nina 2 C-2, Adamićev gat, tel. (+385-) 091 581 52 02. One of the three permanently anchored boats in the port of Rijeka. During the day you can enjoy coffee, during the night the boat turns into a club with entire upper floor from bow to stern becoming the dance floor. But if the heat gets too much there‘s also an open terrace area especially arranged for relaxation and conversation. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Teuta E-2, Užarska 1. The Teuta Club is recognised for its clubbing with a great choice of good music, characterized by its friendly atmosphere where people know how to relax. Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays expect performances by the best the DJs, VJs, singers and musicians with a modern urban twist. It is split into two floors which with multimedia support are merged into one. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. NGB

Život Club Archives

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Tunel E-1, Školjić 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 71 16, bok@

tunelklub.com. Located next to the car park at Školjić and set in a real tunnel, this is a heaven for all fans of electronic music, laid back jazz and alternative culture - you‘ll find exhibitions, fairs of handcrafts of all sorts here. The cool interior has a small stage for live jam sessions. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PNBX Život F-1, Ružićeva 2. Formerly Klub Place it has been redecorated in the 80s style with the help of Rijeka‘s famous Peek & Poke computer museum. It will hold 150-200 people for live indie, pop, rock and organic electro concerts as well as cultural events. Only recently opened. QOpen Thu 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 21:30 - 04:30.

Pubs Belgian Beer Caffe - Brasserie As D-2, Trg Republike

Hrvatske 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 21 48, info@ugostiteljstvoas.com, www.ugostiteljstvo-as.com. Another woodsy “real” pub, huge and with an extensive menu featuring daily set menus and veggie platters. The terrace between Korzo and Riva demands you rest your weary limbs on a hot day. The food‘s not very Belgian. The beer is. Or at least some of it. So are the prices. QOpen 06:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 02:00. PAGB Capitano E-2, Riva 8. First impressions suggest a classy and yuppiefied pub, complete with bustling be-aproned waiters, upholstered booths and polished cherrywood surfaces. However the pumping music and no-nonsense party atmosphere draws a young and hedonistic crowd in the evenings, especially at weekends when Capitano is a key stop-off on the city-centre booze crawl. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00. PNBX Celtic Caffe Bard E-2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. (+385-51) 21 52 35, bard@caffebard.com, www.caffebard.com. A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus‘s Church, with a cosy split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks - and not a TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Connoisseurs of a good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia‘s finest Hirter beer on tap and a large number of speciality ales in bottles. With a music policy that runs through blues, jazz, sixties soul and classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly older crowd who like a drink and who appreciate good music but don‘t want to shout over the din of top-40 drivel. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PNBX Gric & guc C-2, Dolac 8b, tel. (+385-51) 31 90 40, catering.as@ri.t-com.hr. As the name itself suggests, this is a place to nibble and sip! Perfectly placed in the heart of town close to Korzo, this L-shaped beer house is set in a basement and has all the tasty meaty dishes one can only want when knocking back a pint. They haven‘t forgotten lovers of seafood and veggies either, they cater for all. A simple, wooden interior, pleasant atmosphere and fair prices. After a day of sightseeing what more could you ask for? QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (18 - 99kn). PAGBW Phanas Pub D-3, Ivana Zajca 9, tel. (+385-51) 31 23 77, phanas@phanas.hr, www.phanas.hr. A big hit with the local crowd, Phanas plays music from rock to commercial dance, and is the place to rub shoulders with the city‘s party people. A rather luxuriously executed traditional dark wood pub with a nautical feel, with a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus a few snacks. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. PAX River pub D-1, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-) 091 727 70 59. With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great deck out back and music that inspires conversation and inebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to enjoy a drink and a little shimmying till late. One of the best nights out in Rijeka. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 06:00, Sat 15:00 - 06:00. Closed July, August. PNGBXW

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WHAT TO SEE Essential Rijeka The Croatian National Theatre Ivan Zajc (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivan pl. Zajc) E-3,

St Vitus Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Vida) D-1, Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Although there has been a church dedicated to the patron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the Europeanisation of Rijeka under the Hapsburgs. It‘s a rotunda, rather unusual in this part of Europe, with elements of baroque and gothic, including fine baroque statuary inside. A gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently to insulate devout novice monks from the allure of girls in the congregation. There is also some unusual stained glass work, including an image of St Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. Legend has it that a certain Petar Lončarić was playing cards outside the church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a stone at the crucifix. To the amazement of onlookers, the figure of Christ started bleeding. The ground opened and swallowed up the blasphemous Mr Lončarić, leaving just his arm waving gruesomely. It was cut off and burned in public. The cathedral has a separate belltower which once gave access from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which sadly are no more. By the main entrance you can see a cannonball embedded in the wall and a Latin inscription referring to the Napoleonic wars which translates as “This fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here”. St Vitus‘ was promoted to Cathedral status in 1922. Q Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:30. The City Tower and City Gate (Gradski toranj, Gradska vrata) D-2, Korzo. Walking along Korzo, near

the Jadranski trg end, is a fine yellow building topped with a clock tower. This was once a gate - the original entrance to the Roman settlement Tarsatica - where one entered the city from the sea - everything that stands between here and the present-day waterfront is reclaimed land. There has been a tower on this spot since the Middle Ages, when Rijeka was a walled city. A massive earthquake in 1750 destroyed it, along with many other important buildings. Money for a new one was given by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa. In 1873, a new-fangled clock which Rijeka‘s governors spotted at the World Exhibition proved too tempting by far, the very same which still shows the correct time today. The Corso (Korzo) C/D-2, Korzo. The “Corso” is Rijeka‘s main pedestrian street. Lined by elegant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather by day to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, and there‘s no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso and a spot of people-watching here.

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Uljarska 1, tel. (+385-51) 35 59 00/(+385-51) 35 59 07, propaganda@hnk-zajc.hr, www.hnk-zajc.hr. This is one of the proofs that Rijeka is where Central Europe meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre in Rijeka was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a Viennese architectural studio specialising in theatre design, responsible for, among others, the Prague State Opera and the colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in Czech spa Karlovy Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885, the theatre was lit by the first electric lightbulb in Rijeka. During June and July, the theatre hosts a Summer Nights festival. If you can get a ticket, it‘s worth it even if only to catch a glimpse of the ceiling paintings by Gustav Klimt, and the stage curtain painted by Oton Gliha, a Croatian artist who lived on and was inspired by the landscape of Krk island. In the newly-landscaped park in front of the theatre stands a memorial to Rijeka‘s composer Ivan Zajc, one of the most important contributors to the development of classical music in Croatia. Trsat S-1. Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keeping watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat, which has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times. Trsat is the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since prehistoric times. It‘s one of the best known symbols of the city. You may also notice from a distance the elegant spire of a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising the fortress and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller church, a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many concerts are held), landscaped park gardens and a charming huddle of houses. It‘s a serene place to linger over a coffee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The church, St Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Crusaders were taking Mary‘s house from Nazareth to Loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they stopped and rested at Trsat. A church was then built on the site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire development of Trsat), which became a place of pilgrimage. The church contains a great number of renowned religious paintings and a 14th century icon of Our Lady, reputed to be miraculous. It was presented to Croatian pilgrims in Loretto, and is venerated to this day. For more on the church and its sacral art collection see below. The fort has had many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local influential families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of Bakar and the Hapsburgs. The last and most romantic alterations were made by Irish-born Count Laval Nugent, a commander of the Austro-Hungarian empire, who eventually made his home here and established a museum. Sadly, the museum no longer exists. There are attractive underground spaces (one of which once housed prison cells) which are now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret passageway leads to the Rječina river. The Grecian style Nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery space. The fort is well worth visiting for its architectural beauty and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf. It‘s part of a chain of defences across the mountains that protected the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion. You can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Captain Petar Kružić - the traditional route for pilgrims. Before you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on their knees as a mark of devotion. But if it‘s hot or you‘re feeling parky, you can also reach Trsat by road from the east of the centre, or take bus No.2.

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WHATTO TO SEE SEE WHAT Churches The Capuchin Church of Our Lady of Lourdes (Kapucinska crkva Gospe Lurdske) B-2, Kapucinske

stube 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 89. The grand neo-gothic edifice in red and white brick on the Žabica square, with two sweeping staircases leading to an upper level, is the church of Rijeka‘s Capuchin order. Building started in 1904 and the lower level was completed four years later. The Capuchins were running out of money for the next phase, and apparently someone devised a cunning plan to continue building. Some luckless lady was heralded as a miraculous saint who sweated blood. Of course, people were clamouring to part with their hard-earned money to see this freak show, so the church got its upper part, completed in 1929. Meanwhile, the miraculous “saint” got a jail sentence. Despite this colourful story, the church never got the bell tower originally planned, but it‘s an imposing piece of architecture anyway, and the landing at the top of the staircases is a good spot to get a view over the city centre and the port in front of you. Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00, 12:00 and 19:00. July, August Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00 and 19:00. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00.

The Church of St Jerome and Dominican Monastery (Crkva sv. Jeronima i Dominikanski samostan) D-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 1, tel. (+385-51)

32 53 20. A fine baroque church on the grand Municipium square. It was originally part of an Augustinian monastery complex built by one of Rijeka‘s noble families the Counts of Devin, and which later passed over to relations in the House of Walsee - members of both dynasties are buried here. Founded in 1315 and completed in 1396, St Jerome‘s was originally gothic in style but suffered the same fate as many others in the earthquake of 1750, and was rebuilt in the baroque style which you see today. Next to St Jerome‘s

is the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which is a fine example of Alpine gothic architecture. The monastery now houses a Dominican order of monks. Mass: 08:00,18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 11:30, 18:30. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

The Church of St Mary of the Assumption and The leaning tower (Crkva Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije i Kosi toranj) E-2, Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3,

tel. (+385-51) 21 41 77. Another site once at the heart of Tarsatica, as the nearby remains of Roman spas testify. St Mary of the Assumption dates back to the Middle Ages, and has since then undergone many phases of rebuilding and adding to, resulting in a right old mix of styles, but not changing the fact that this is a much-loved place of worship. This was once the main church of Rijeka, locals still call it Vela Crikva, or “The Big Church”, while they call its tower kosi toranj, or “the leaning tower” because it‘s out of true by 40cm. Although St Mary‘s interior is full of beautiful baroque stuccowork, including the ceilings, it was undergoing renovation at the time of writing. This is a good church to attend if you want to get the feel of a local mass. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. July Open 08:00 - 12:00. August Open 17:00 - 19:00.

The Church of St Sebastian (Crkva sv. Sebastijana) D-2, Marka Marulića bb. Some say that the forebear

of this little renaissance church was built in 1291, at the time of plague, as an offering to St Sebastian, saint and protector against pestilence. The church was built in its present incarnation in 1562. This part of the city was the heart of ancient Tarsatica - Roman walls dating back to the 4th century have been excavated. Readers may like to know that apart from plague, St Sebastian is the patron saint of Spanish policemen, diseased cattle, racquet makers, Pontifical Swiss Guards and enemies of religion. So, Godless heathens, even you have a patron saint. There is no escape. Tremble in almighty awe! The rosary is said in Italian every day at 18:00.

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

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WHAT TO SEE The Jadranski trg Fountain (Fontana Jadranski trg) C-2, Jadranski trg. Two squarish, hexagonal structures

in pink marble form a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting place at the beginning of the Korzo promenade, and a circus ring for the skateboarders to be found wherever that tantalising combination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets arranged around the edge squirt in and make an almighty and soothing noise.

The Kawasaki Fountain (Fontana Kawasaki)

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

The Orthodox Church of St Nicholas (Pravoslavna crkva sv. Nikole) D-2, Ignacija Henckea 2, tel. (+385-

51) 33 53 99. Rijeka has for many years had a Serbian Orthodox community, who were traditionally wealthy. The story goes that the governor of Rijeka got so annoyed with their pleas for a church that he threw a stone into the sea, saying “There! That‘s where you can build your church!” The industrious Serbs got busy filling in the land in front of the Clock Tower on Korzo, and built their church where the stone had landed. So, is it thanks to them that we have the Riva and the harbour? Probably this story has no more than a grain of truth in it, but the tale is certainly picturesque. The church has a collection of 18th century icons from Vojvodina in Serbia and Bosnia. Mass: 08:00 and 18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00 and 18:00. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 18:30, Mon 08:00 - 09:00, 18:00 - 18:30.

The Salesian Monastery (Salezijanski samostan)

N-2, Vukovarska 62, tel. (+385-51) 67 58 04. The monks of the Salesian order follow the teachings of St Don Bosco (1815-1888), a priest who dedicated his life to helping and teaching orphaned boys. The buildings of the monastery complex date back to 1892, the chapel for orphans to 1901. The Salesians were invited to Rijeka in 1918 to work with young people, and founded a school and oratory here. The Salesian Classical Grammar School is a highly regarded educational institution which continues this work today on the same site.

Fountains Rijeka has an exceptionally large number of fountains. Before the city had a water system, they made use of the many springs which have their source in the very centre. Some of these being underground, public washing facilities and drinking fountains were built for practical purposes, providing places where the inhabitants would gather and catch up with the daily gossip. Many of the original ones are long gone since the building of the modern water system, but in more recent years decorative fountains have been built that give the city a pleasant character. They’re all places where you can sit and enjoy a little refreshment in the summer heat.

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E-2, Jelačićev trg. Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed, this lovely fountain has as a centrepiece a sculpture of two children and a bird, presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988 by the Japanese city of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring symbol of friendship. Surrounded by greenery and flowers, it has become a favourite meeting point for young people, for whom it was particularly intended, who often choose it as the place to celebrate New Year, graduation and other momentous occasions. The Korzo Fountain (Fontana Korzo) D-2, Korzo. Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a silver cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small “source” at the centre is meant to remind us of the many natural springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below Mount Učka and the Velebit range. The Old Paper Millstones (Stari kolodrob) D-2, Koblerov trg. A perfect symbol of the interplay between Rijeka‘s industrial heritage and water: together fundamental elements of the city‘s identity. Two millstones, complete with their original machinery, which were once used in the city‘s first paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece, and water streams in intriguing formations over the toothed edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work become a source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper mill presented the fountain to the city in honour of its many workers on the occasion of the mill‘s 150th anniversary. The Public Drinking Fountain (Javna slavina) A-2, Krešimirova. Just opposite the train station, this unusual, conical drinking fountain with its constant flow of water was built in 1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool, refreshing drink, and to replace one which stood here for years, since 1873.

Historical areas Calvary 17-18 century (Riječka kalvarija iz 17-18.

st.) E-1, Kalvarija. Just north of St Vitus Church is a path named Kalvarija - Rijeka‘s Calvary. Rijeka‘s once influential Jesuit community was peeved at all the attention drawn by the Franciscan‘s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their attempt to catch a little glory (17-18th centuries). The path leads to steps, and if you‘re man enough for the long walk to the top, you‘ll see the baroque remains of shrines along the way. There were once shrines at the top, but little remains of them except a few sculptures. Among the high-rise blocks of flats you can see remains of 4th century stone walls, from the time when this hilltop was part of the defensive system of the Holy Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures. It‘s a pleasant walk - if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives you the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential areas in the hills north of the centre. Remains of the 4thC Roman Praetorium (Kasnoantički kastrum 4st.) D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera.

Behind St Sebastian‘s Church is a rectangular section of ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some thoughtful soul has placed benches where you may sit and ponder your insignificance relative to the march of time, for this was once part of a Roman military command centre in ancient Tarsatica, from which the defensive chain of forts that lie in the hills behind were managed.

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WHAT TO SEE

The Fort of the Holy Cross (Gradina sv. Križ) T-2,

Sveti križ. Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of Gornja Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of defences originating from prehistoric times which guarded the coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from inland Europe. There‘s a 15th century votive church next to the fort, as well as Rijeka‘s Planetarium (see Landmarks). Because of the historical, natural and cultural value of this spot, a scientific trail is planned which will be open to students and tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were on a trip here in December 2004, and one bright young chap, Antonio Torre, spotted an interesting-looking clay slab. It has turned out to be one of the oldest examples of Glagolitic script ever found in the area (13th century). Visit, enjoy the spectacular view over Rijeka and Kvarner - and keep your eyes peeled! The Old City (Stari grad). The centre of Rijeka once looked very different. The buildings on the north side of Korzo were, for example, on the seafront until the eighteenth century. And behind Korzo are the ruins of the ancient walled city of Tarsatica, which lay on the site of the present-day heart of Rijeka, roughly enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava fašizma to the north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma Barčića to the west. Because of lack of space and the needs to modernise the town, providing it with transport and water systems, much of the old city was pulled down, but you can still see a few remains. There‘s an old and atmospheric part of town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the area around St Vitus‘ and St Sebastian‘s and around the Judicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north of Trg Ivana Koblera.

Industrial Rijeka It‘s a working city, so there‘s none of that wuss lying around you get in most tourist resorts. You get both the busy and progressive feel of a modern urban city, plus some fine historic architecture. The Paper Mill (Tvornica papira) F-1, Ružićeva bb. Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one of the most successful industries of both the former Yugoslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of entrepreneurs from France and England who installed the first steam engine in southeast

Photo by Jelena Vivoda

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Love Locks on Molo Longo (riječki lukobran) Bridge. Photo by Zorka Čubelić Europe in 1833. In 1991, the factory was the second largest manufacturer of cigarette paper in Europe, and had won many awards - see the medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated by war and economic and political changes, and the company went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since the buildings are so important to Rijeka‘s development and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre: there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvornica papira Hartera”. The Shipyards (Brodogradilište) L-3, Liburnijska 3. Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you‘ll see signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka‘s biggest shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugoslavia. They‘re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuilding going on here since 1905. In the late 80‘s, the Yugoslav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars to the economy. 3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting stuff over the years, including battleships and submarines. Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace, they‘re also using their expertise with metal in areas like construction and waste management. An even older yard, Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, conversions and offshore work like laying pipelines and building oil rigs - the oil industry is another important part of the economy of the Kvarner region. The Sugar Refinery (Tvornica šećera) A-1, Ulica Petra Krešimira IV. A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka‘s train station in 1754, by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest), and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!) in 1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chinese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside is also exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly sensual murals of bathing goddesses. The Torpedo Factory (Tvornica torpeda) M-3, Jože Vlahovića 19. Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka? Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weapons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this. One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval officer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at long range. He came up with the idea of what he called “the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical background nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in Rijeka. They put their

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WHAT TO SEE Emir of Qatar, a restaurant, apartments and guest rooms and an underground car park. Prayers in the building can accommodate up to 1,400 people, whilst the minaret is 23 metres high. Well worth a visit to check out the extraordinary architecture.

Memorial Bridge to Rijeka‘s Soldiers (Most hrvatskih branitelja) E-2, Uskočka riva. A striking

Photo by Jelena Vivoda heads together, and came up with the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month, and Rijeka had gained a reputation for high-technology engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s, but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the factory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the imposing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the torpedo company, and his wife - Whitehead‘s daughter. Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) A-2, Petra Krešimira 5. The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architectural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Ljubljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hungary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which survive today are listed buildings.

Landmarks Hurricane!. Or, Uragan… is the name of the big old ship that looms in the dock by the Port Authority building (opposite the coach station). She started life in 19th century Hamburg, where she worked as a cleaner in the harbour until she was conscripted by the German army. Granted to the Yugoslav army as part of war reparations, she then undertook technical duties along the Adriatic coast, including the development of the Port of Rijeka, as well as acting in films including “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Winds of War”. After a long and active life, she sank in the Rijeka harbour in 1999 due to a worn-out hull. A team of enthusiasts sponsored by the Port of Rijeka Authority oversaw Uragan‘s repair, and she was given a permanent resting place here in summer 2005 Islamic Center Rijeka Ante Mandića 50, info@medzlisrijeka.org, www.medzlis-rijeka.org. The third mosque in Croatia is located in Rijeka, in Zamet, the western part of the city. This is a building of high international artistic relevance designed by the famous late sculptor Dušan Džamonja, in collaboration with architects Darko Vlahović and Branko Vučinović. It is located on a hillside, from where the slopes of the nearby Učka mountain and islands of the Rijeka region can be viewed. The complex has been built on a plot of 10,800 square metres and has four levels: a gallery, ground floor and two floors. The facility, which is spread over 3,074 m2 and features a congress centre, which will be named after the Rijeka In Your Pocket IYP_Template_RIJEKA-Summer_2013.indd 36

modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the soldiers who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and glass, it contrasts with the Imperial architecture around it, yet is in harmony with the industrial port area nearby, and with Rijeka‘s spirit as a young and innovative city. As with many examples of modern architecture, there was an almighty “What the hell is that?” type furore over its opening, yet the Zagreb-based architects Studio 3LHD recently won an award from the London „Architectural Review“. As you cross the bridge heading away from the city, notice the symbolism of the passage of the nation into a new and independent future. As you cross back into the city, make sure you watch the traffic! Port of Rijeka (Riječka luka) D-3. The Port of Rijeka was founded in 1717 by the Austrian monarch Charles VI. Over the years, railway lines were built connecting the port with the large cities of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade boomed. By the late 19th century Rijeka was the main port for the transport of goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka ranked among the top ten European seaports by volume. War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka‘s fortunes. The First World War stopped the international transport of goods by sea. After the war, the Treaty of Rapallo handed the port of Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to the east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two. During the Second Worl d War, mu ch of Rijeka‘s harbour wa s d e s t roye d. Rebuildin g to ok place after 1945, focusing on the construction of facilities for the transport of specialised goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and containers. By 1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million tons of cargo per year. War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s. Although the northern Adriatic was not directly affected by the conflict, it was damaging enough to shipping and industry to divert part of the trade to the neighbouring ports of Koper (Slovenia) and Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Rijeka‘s other important industry, went into steep decline. However, since the end of the war, the shipping industry has been getting back on its feet, and the yearly turnover of shipped goods has enjoyed steady growth. Rijeka‘s location is extremely favourable. Strategically, Rijeka has a longstanding transport connection with the countries of Central Europe, with a direct link to Budapest. It‘s an ideal point for the import and export of goods between the Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie around it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern Germany and Poland, western Ukraine and more. Rijeka‘s Bridges (Riječki mostovi) F-1/2, E-2. “Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn‘t get its name by chance - many waters sourcing in those mountains you see there wind their way through the city, underground and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these. Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one time in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and Pećine. The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers since

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WHAT TO SEE before Roman times. When the port was developed, the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course abandoned - you‘ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” - “Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta, where there‘s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café. The two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the Hotel Continental is the bridge where you‘ll find a statue of the writer Kamov (see Landmarks) leaning against the railings. Further south, you‘ll spot the brand new bridge built as a monument to the soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war (see Landmarks). Fans of WW II history may also be interested to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka‘s liberation from fascist rule by Tito‘s partizans. Sušak - Pećine Q/S-3/4. The neighbourhood of Sušak that lies across the river was once a separate settlement. It got its name from the Croatian verb sušiti - “to dry”, since once upon a time there were large areas used for drying the laundry washed in the many springs here. The coming of the railway brought wealth and expansion, and a host of fine buildings and palaces grew up and today line the bank on the east side of the Rječina. The area of land between the centre of Rijeka and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line between two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on the shore. It was the elite residential area during Austro-Hungarian rule, and it‘s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, where members of the political and literary families Ružić and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5). Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many of Sušak‘s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, was an author of much-loved children‘s books. In the family‘s library, which is listed as a cultural monument, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of her book of fairy stories „Tales of Long Ago“ is kept. You can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English translation in the family‘s library, which is listed as a cultural monument. The Milkmaid (Mljekarica) E-2, Užarska. By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there‘s a statue of an elderly lady bent under the weight of the milk churns she‘s carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was carried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still famous for it‘s cheese - grobnički sir - try it if you see it on the menu.

The Roman Gate (Stara vrata) D-2, Trg Julija Klovića.

Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone archway, the oldest structure in Rijeka, once the entry into the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre. Built onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist department store, with a Hapsburg era town house added on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come to Roman excavations where you can see decorative columns, stone walls and slabs. The Statue of Kamov (Janko Polić Kamov) F-1, Titov trg. On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there‘s a statue of a man sitting on the railings - a scarily lifelike pose. This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer infamous for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still much-read today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died in Barcelona in 1910 at the age of 24.

Museums Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti) C-2, Dolac 1/II,

tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, mmsu-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www. mmsu.hr. Here, enter the world of contemporary Croatian and foreign art, and works by local and young artists. Due to lack of space, there is no permanent exhibition, but temporary ones are held both here and in the Mali Salon on Korzo. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun, Mon. Admission 10kn. State Archives in Rijeka (Državni arhiv Rijeka) D-1, Park Nikole Hosta 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 64 45/(+385-51) 33 64 47, drzavni-arhiv@ri.t-com.hr, www.riarhiv.hr. Rijeka‘s branch of the State Archives handles documents of national-level importance from Rijeka, the surrounding County and the town of Senj. The oldest document dates back to 1201. The Archives have a library and exhibition room, where exhibitions are held which can tell a lot about the history of Rijeka and its famous faces through time. The Archives‘ home is the Androch villa (in the Nikola Hosta park), where Archduke Joseph once lived. Q During exhibitions open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

The Rijeka Astronomical Center (Astronomski Centar Rijeka) Sveti Križ 33, tel. (+385-51) 45 57

00, astronomski-centar-rijeka@rijekasport.hr, www. astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr. Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy look no further as you‘re about to enter the first astronomy center that was built in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city and up on the hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport is easy and available via line 7a from the city centre (Delta). It is set in a building which was built in 1941as a military fortress. Subsequently, in 2001, a telescope was built there Rijeka‘s first observatory was established, by installing a new planetarium hall into an already existing fortress. The Astronomical Center now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other additional contents for learning more about astronomy. Special presentations are organized for foreign tourists every Wednesday at 19:00. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10 -20kn.

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WHAT TO SEE The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral (Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog primorja) D-1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35

78/(+385-51) 55 36 66, info@ppmhp.hr, www.ppmhp. hr. One of Rijeka‘s important landmarks is the Maritime and Historical Museum which is located in one of the most beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former palace, it was originally designed and built as the residence for king‘s emissaries and governors. Today it is a Museum which collects, keeps, handles and presents artefacts connected to the history and culture of the Primorsko-goranska County and the city of Rijeka, starting with the first settlers in pre-historical times through to the 20th century. Divided into categories, the museum‘s collection contains the Archaeological Department with pre-historical, Greek, Roman, medieval and numismatic collections. For those fascinated by aquatic forms of transport, the History of Maritime Department consists of historical reconstructions of ships, ship equipment, nautical instruments, maps, pictures and prints as well as material from the Ethnographical, Cultural and Historical Departments. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun, Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

The Museum of the City of Rijeka (Muzej grada Rijeke) D-1, Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 33 67 11,

info@muzej-rijeka.hr, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. Housed in a purpose-built, cube-like space (1976) in the gardens of the Governor‘s Palace. As well as themes and personalities from the city‘s past, the museum presents lectures and exhibitions on subjects of global interest. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 15kn, Mon free.

The Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej) D-1, Lorenzov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 36 69,

info@prirodoslovni.com, www.prirodoslovni.com. Nature lovers can study the geological history of the Adriatic Sea and the Rijeka region. The multimedia centre with its excellent aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to know friendly and scary sea creatures at close quarters in conditions simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be either delighted or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles, amphibians, and insects. A botanical garden was opened in June 2005 for your pleasure in the museum grounds, which form part of the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north of the old town. It features over 2000 species native to this sub-Mediterranean deciduous zone. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

The University Library (Sveučilišna knjižnica Rijeka) C-2, Dolac 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 61 29, www.

svkri.uniri.hr. The former School for Young Ladies (1887, Giacomo Zammattio) opposite the Hotel Bonavia was converted into the Scientific Library in 1948, and the University Library in 1979. The main reason to visit is the permanent exhibition of the Glagolitic script. One of the leading collections of this kind in the world, on display are replicas of stone tablets written in this ancient Slavic alphabet, including the Baška tablet from Krk island, one of the most important document of this kind in existence. Together with frescoes, masonry, manuscripts, books and paintings, this exhibition is truly an opportunity to see something very beautiful and very unique to Croatia. Call to make an appointment to view - it‘s well worth it. The Museum of Modern Art is on the second floor of the building. Q Open by prior arrangement. Admission 10kn.

Palaces The Governor‘s Palace (Guvernerova palača)

D-1, Muzejski trg 1. The Governor was a representative of the Hungarian crown who was sent to boss people around

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in Rijeka after a deal of 1868 known as the “Rijeka Patch”, which meant Rijeka came under the authority of Budapest. The Governor, one Count Lajos Batthyany, commissioned the leading Budapest architect of the time, the aptly-named Alajos Hauszmann, who also worked on Buda Castle and the Palace of Justice in Budapest to build a palace (completed in 1893) befitting his imperial might. Sited on a hilltop commanding a view over the harbour, the splendid palace does just that. Since it houses the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral you can see the splendid interior as well as the statue park in the grounds. The Jadran Building (Palača Adria) C-2, Riva. This grand old dame occupying prime position on the waterfront is the headquarters of Jadrolinija - yup, those ferries you see in the harbour there. This palatial structure was built (in 1897) to befit the aspirations of the old Hungarian shipping company “Adria”, which numbered taking on rivals from the port of Trieste and world domination. While they didn‘t quite manage the last part, they did engage in trade around the world, bringing coffee from Rio, exotica from North Africa and shellsuits from Liverpool. The palace‘s exterior is rich in statuary - look out for the figures of a ship‘s captain, helmsman, chief engineer and pilot from the dockside, while from Jadranski trg you can see female figures representing Africa, Asia, Europe and India. The Judicial Palace (Sudbena palača) E-1, Žrtava fašizma. Sometimes translated as the Palace of Justice, which sounds like some evil forum in space presided over by Darth Vader. It looks a bit that way too - raised above ground and approached by seemingly endless staircases, its sheer size is enough to instil fear and repentance in the most hardened criminal. It was completed in 1904, designed by the abovementioned Mr Hauszmann‘s friend, Gyozo Czigler, who also built the decorative market halls in Budapest. It was built on the site of an old fortress which guarded the city walls since Roman times. Sadly, only fragments of this remain today. The Modello Building (Palača Modello) E-2, Ivana Zajca. A highly decorative building, built in 1885 by Austrian architects Fellner and Helmer, at the same time as, and as part of the same project as the National Theatre, in the style of the Viennese Ring. Its ornamental appearance belies its original function as the headquarters of a bank. Also richly decorated inside, the Modello building now houses the City Library and is the meeting place of Rijeka‘s Italian community. The Municipal Palace (Palača Municipija) D-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije. Next to St Jerome‘s Church once stood a large Augustinian monastery. When the Augustinians ceased to exist, in 1833 the city authorities began to take over the buildings for use by the local government of the growing city. The adaptations were not sensitively done, so in 1873 the influential mayor Ivan (or, in Italian, Giovanni) Ciotta - you‘ll see his name everywhere - had an architect harmonise the appearance of the square. Today the buildings of the Square of the Rijeka Resolution are gracious in lemon and white, in a combination of baroque, renaissance and classical forms. The building now houses local TV station Kanal Ri and a multitude of other offices. Across the square, Trg Riječke rezolucije, is the Radio Rijeka building (you can pass through it to get to Korzo). The Rijeka Resolution referred to in the name of the square was drawn up here in 1905 as a declaration of Croat and Serb unity in the drive for autonomy, a move which eventually contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia. The National Reading Room and “Mali Salon” gallery are in here. In between, there is a stone column for the city flagpole which has a carving of St Vitus holding Rijeka protectively in his hand, and an inscription of thanks from the Emperor Maximillian in gratitude to the citizens for their loyalty during a battle against the Venetians in 1508, in which the city came under heavy fire.

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WHAT TO SEE The Palazzo (Palača komuna) D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera. This relatively modest, baroque building served as the Town Hall from 1532, until Rijeka‘s expansion demanded the city authorities move to the Municipium. The composer Ivan Zajc, after whom the National Theatre is named, was trained in music at the Philharmonic Institute which once occupied the first floor. The square in front, named after a local historian, Ivan Kobler, was once a lively piazza - the centre of the city‘s social, commercial and political life, and a promenade by evening. The fountain built in commemoration of the 150th anniversary of Rijeka‘s paper mill (see Industrial Rijeka) makes this a pleasant place to linger in the shade.

The Theatre Park (Kazališni park) E-3, Ivana Zajca. Created in a classicist-art nouveau style to be in harmony with the theatre, Modello Palace and buildings of the city market. It‘s built on land reclaimed from the sea in 1875, and has just been freshly restored, replanted and brought back to its original glory. It still features 9 rose bushes of varieties appropriate to a theatre park, such as Händel, Concerto, Prima Ballerina and Maria Callas. The Vladimir Nazor Park (Park Vladimira Nazora)

D-1, Šetalište Vladimira Nazora. This park continues uphill from the Nikola Hosta park, and it‘s here that you‘ll find the Natural History Museum with its wonderful new Botanical Gardens, opened in Spring 2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of Croatia‘s leading writers and poets - during WWII he joined the Partizans, then became the first president of the Croatian Parliament.

Religious collections The Collection of St Vitus Cathedral (Sakralna zbirka Katedrale sv. Vida) E-1, Trg Grivica 11, tel.

(+385-51) 33 08 79. The Cathedral‘s interior has many wonderful works of art, but there is also a collection in the room behind the sacristy including robes worn by Jesuits during Mass; silver and gilded sculptures and utensils. The most prized possessions are a silver statue of the Virgin Mary, made in Augsburg in 1731; chalices and monstrances, and reliquaries of St Vitus, St Ignatius and St Francis Borgia made by goldsmiths in Augsburg, Vienna and Rijeka. The oldest item is a 15th century tin cross dating back to when the old church of St Vitus stood here. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

The Permanent Collection of Votive Offerings (Stalna izložba zavjetnih darova) U-1, Frankopanski

Parks

Photo by Tošo Dabac, Tošo Dabac Archives

The Gardens of Our Lady of Trsat (Perivoj Gospe Trsatske) V-2, Trsat. Built within the walls of the mon-

astery at Trsat, these terraced, landscaped gardens, first created in 1927, are a spacious, peaceful place to rest after your sightseeing expedition or pilgrimage to the shrine to St Mary at Trsat. The Mlaka Park (Park Mlaka). One of the oldest and most beautiful parks in the city, it was created in 1874 to make a break between the city centre and the western suburbs, announcing to visitors the approach to the historic centre with a swathe of green. The original huge space, watered by natural springs, was once a favourite meeting place, and is now smaller since several buildings were put up there. There‘s still a lovely stretch of lawn with a stream running through it - a cool place to rest near the train station. The Nikola Hosta Park (Park Nikole Hosta) D-1, Žrtava fašizma. Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th century Androch villa, just across the street from the Judicial Palace and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries such as Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke Joseph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all over the world for these gardens, which he established at the beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on several levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains managed to achieve the look of an English garden - it‘s rather lost its former splendour these days. The villa is now used by the State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named after the Austrian botanist who helped plant it - the very same who discovered the genus hosta, we suspect.

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trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00. Includes model ships, paintings and handmade objects offered to Our Lady by grateful people whose prayers have been answered. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

The Treasury and Gallery of Our Lady of Trsat (Riznica i galerija Svetište Gospe Trsatske) U-1,

Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00. The Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, and one of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary in Croatia - no mean boast. It has a rich collection of religious art fitting this status. The Frankopan counts, who did so much to build the church and fortifications here, were generous donors to the collection, followed by other Croatian noble families and members of the Austro-Hungarian imperial dynasty. Treasures include the 15th century reliquary of Barbara Frankopan and a 16th century silver statue of the Mother of God. The art gallery and chapel also have wonderful collections of religious art. Q Open by prior arrangement. Admission free.

The Treasury of the Franciscan Monastery, Trsat (Riznica Franjevačkog samostana, Trsat) U-3,

Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00. All kinds of churchy stuff dating back to the 13th century, including incunabula and a valuable collection of vestments. Q Open by prior arrangement. Admission free.

Photo by Renco Kosinožić

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OPATIJA Opatija gets its rightful name from an abbey that was established here in the late Middle Ages by Benedictine monks. The Croatian word for abbey is opatija, and this same abbey was abandoned by the early nineteenth century, although its centrepoint, St James‘s Church (Crk va svetog Jakova), still stands by the seashore today. As people sort shelter across Europe, a civilian settlemen t grew-up around the abbey some time in the sixteenth century although it wasn‘t until the nineteenth century that Opatija was discovered as a potential health resort, and it was then that its development and infrastructure really began to expand. Opatija‘s history as a tourist destination begins in the 1840‘s when a merchant from the nearby city of Rijeka, Iginio Scarpa built the Villa Angiolina which served as both a family retreat and a venue for high-society gatherings. With members of the

Austro-Hungarian aristocracy included on Scarpa‘s guest list, the appeal of Opatija as a holiday destination rapidly spread. Tourists back in the nineteenth-century were not interested in sunbathing, bungee-jumping, and drinking themselves silly. They saw travel as a health-improving activity which took them away from smoky cities and provided them with a dose of fresh sea air. Opatija, with its warm climate and mild sea breezes, was the ideal destination. Opatija had got its major breakthrough under the rule of the Austro-Hungarian Empire which was expanding its railway networks. Urged on by the advice of top doctors; notably the Austrian laryngologist Leopold Schrötter, who found the local sea air to be an excellent cure for throat complaints, the Southern Railway Company or Südbahn had built a direct line from Vienna to Rijeka. The construction of hotels was next on the agenda which was seen as a major requirement in order to meet the needs of a growing tourist industry. In 1884, the Südbahn had opened Opatija‘s first sanatorium, the Kvarner which continues to operate today under the name Kvarner Hotel. Since its early days, Opatija was always seen as an exclusive resort for the horse-and-carriage set and it had soon become popular amongst the Austro-Hungarian royal family. Emperor Franz Josef himself was a regular visitor, and was joined here by his German counterpart Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1894. Franz Ferdinand (the Archduke, not the 80‘s pop rock band) would venture down to Opatija to indulge in a spot of bird-shooting at nearby Preluk.

Essential Opatija The Croatian Walk of Fame (Hrvatska ulica slavnih). Initiated in 2006 and has become a must see

spot on the city tour. This educational and tourist project honours renowned and famous Croatians who have been promoting Croatia to the world through sport, science, culture and arts success. Marble stars have been carefully placed along Opatija‘s Slatina promenade and home the likes of poet Dragutin Tadijanović, tennis great Goran Ivanišević, handball player Ivano Balić, actor Pero Kvrgić and others. The Girl with a Seagull. Definitely one of the most pictured motifs through which Opatija presents itself to the world is the sculpture of a girl with a seagull on her hand. It was made in 1956 by the sculptor Zvonko Car. It was placed on the same spot where the sculpture of the Madonna used to stand. Originally, the sculpture of the Madonna was put there in memory of Arthur Kesselstadt, who tragically died at sea in 1891. Due to wear and tear from the conditions near the sea, the sculpture had been damaged and was later transferred and restored. It can now be seen in St James‘s Church above the Riviera. The Juraj Šporer Art Pavillion Park sv.Jakova 1, tel. (+385-51) 27 22 25. Occupying the site of the former Benedictine monastery buildings, this elegant colonnaded structure originally served as a seafront café. Lovingly restored, and named after one of the pre-World War I medical men who popularized Opatija as a health resort, the pavilion now hosts contemporary art exhibitions. Villa Angiolina. Built in 1844 and seen as a landmark in the town‘s development as a high-society resort. Fittingly, the high and mighty figures of the populace would relish in the villa surroundings, attending lavish balls and receptions. High-ranking guests included the governor of Croatia Josip Jelačić (1851), Archduke Maximilian von Habsburg (1859), and Emperor Franz-Jozef‘s mother, the Empress Maria-Ana (1860). The villa now serves as the Museum of Croatian Tourism, tel. 099 239 14 46, www.hrmt.hr, Open 10:00 -22:00.

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Closed Mon. Admission 10kn - well worth visiting not least because it gives you the chance to peek inside the villa‘s ornate entrance hall, complete with intricate mosaic floors, painted ceiling and Corinthian-style columns. Displaying old photographs, antique guide-books and resort posters, the museum itself provides a colourful and entertaining introduction to the history of the travel industry.

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

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OPATIJA

Opatija‘s parks and promenades Nature lovers will be pleased to know that Opatija‘s Mediterranean climate has fittingly helped in the growth and protection of the lush vegetation of its parks and promenades. The close proximity of Mount Učka ensures fresh nights whilst spring tends to be the most pleasant part of the year. Opatija gets its fair share of rain which is vital in maintaining its vegetation. In winter, there is usually no frost whilst snow is very rare and short-termed. As Opatija is protected from the cold and strong winds, this also helps the vitality of its flora.

Franz-Jozef Promenade (Šetalište Franza JozefaLungomare). One of the non-negotiable and must do

activities in Opatija is to walk at least part of the way along the Franz-Jozef Promenade, a pedestrian-only path that runs along the shore from Volosko 3km to the north, or in the opposite direction to Lovran 6km to the south. Winding its way above rocky coves and passing the palm-sprouting gardens enriched with beautiful samples of cypress, oak and palm trees as well as ornate pre-World War I villas; the promenade offers fantastic views across the Kvarner Bay to Rijeka, with the lush Gorski Kotar mountains brooding in the background. Park Angiolina and Saint James. It just so happens that at the same time as Villa Angiolina was being built, Opatija‘s central park was also in the making. This horticultural masterpiece of 3.64 acres is divided into two scenic parts: one that resides next to Villa Angiolina itself and the second part which is next to the Church of Saint James. The gardens simply flourish with approximately 150 different plants, the majority of which come from distant parts of the world such as Japan, China, South America, Australia and other countries. Ignio Scarpa, who built Villa Angiolina planted these exotic shrubs and trees thanks to his sea-roving sailors who would scatter across the world and return home with new plants. The cedars, sequoias, gingko, palms and oaks are still flourishing today, making this one of Croatia‘s most important dendrological collections. Amongst the many interesting plants, there is a Japanese Camellia (Camellia japonica), which has with time, become a symbol of Opatija. Park Margarita. The second largest horticultural delight is Park Margarita which was founded right after the year 1900. It spans 3.5 acres on the slope above Slatina. Its central part has been entirely preserved, however there has been

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some damage along the surrounding edges due to many renovations, reconstructions and inappropriate building development. Judging by the appearance of some of the plants (oak, planika, Juda‘s tree and others), you‘d think that the park was much older than Park Angiolina, however it is believed that the original plants that were seeded here over a century ago were already of age. The Carmen Sylva Forest Promenade. The 5 kilometre forest promenade on Mount Učka starts in Potok (Vrutki) and continues to Vela Fortica (Varljeni). The promenade was set up in 1890 under the name ‘Aurora‘ and broadened in 1901 under the initiative and financial support of the Romanian King Karol and his wife Queen Elisabeth, a poetess who found inspiration there and wrote under the pseudonym Carmen Sylva.

The Opatija riviera Many would say that the Opatija Riviera initiated Croatian tourism as a whole. Ever since the aristocracy of the AustroHungarian upper class saw this coastal town as a top quality resort 120 years ago, the string of settlements on the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its center is Opatija, a belle-époque seaside resort clinging to the slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appealing mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday villas. As all three are situated within a mere 20-30 minute drive from Rijeka, getting around is a piece of cake. Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season destination, offering neatly manicured parks, stylish cafes crammed with delicious mouth-watering sweets, traditional souvenir boutiques and Croatia‘s densest concentration of top-class restaurants.

Tourist Information Center Maršala Tita 128, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 10, info@ opatija-tourism.hr, www.opatija-tourism.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.

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OPATIJA They say that location is the key - and it is evident that the key to Opatija‘s success is its position at the foot of Mount Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj protect Opatija from the East and South as they deviate the winds that come in from the open sea. Over the years Opatija has been labelled as the perfect getaway, a place to relax and seek leisure through its natural surroundings and tourist attractions. These days this gorgeous coastal village is undergoing something of a boom in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every hotel in the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools, saunas, steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-of-the-art beauty treatments. With major European centers such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a 500 kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible year-round health-andlifestyle resorts in Europe. The business sector hasn‘t been forgotten as there are a multiple facilities to cater for congress tourism: the Grand Hotel Adriatic‘s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting top international meetings for several decades while the Hotel Kvarner‘s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a near-legendary venue for high-level receptions and showbiz events. The Ambasador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta and other local hotels are also endowed with amenities to accommodate business meetings and seminars of all numbers and sizes. Everything to suit the customers‘ needs. Volosko Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm, with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside ab ove a sh el tere d little port. Volosko‘s strong fishing tradition may help to explain why it boasts some of the best seafood re s tauran ts in t h e countr y. A fistful of high-class eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats. Lovran Sitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers sou th of Opa tija is Lovran, th e m os t pi c tures qu e of th e Ri viera‘s resor ts, with a historic centre of m e di eval s ton e houses grouped around the fourteenth c en tur y Ch urch of S t G e o r ge , a n d a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth century villas - many of which have been renovated and now serve as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A short walk south of Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent pebbly beach. Kastav There‘s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera then from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of the Kvarner Bay to the left and the coastal settlements of Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance.

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Opatija Cafes

Photo by Ivana Stanešić In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This process seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders wondering who the hell does any work around here. So the cafés are always busy, and the coffee usually good. The standard espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere, while a latte here is called a bijela kava (white coffee). Café Wagner Maršala Tita 109 (Hotel Millennium), tel. (+385-51) 20 20 71, info@milenijhoteli. hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr. Overlooking the sea at the very east end of the beach is this traditional and classy kavana - a coffee house in the Austrian style. A firm favourite with the fur-coat brigade who like to disport themselves on Wagner‘s crescent-shaped terrace whatever the weather. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PALB Choco bar Maršala Tita 94, tel. (+385-51) 60 35 62, chocobaropatija@kras.hr, www.kraschocobar. com. Run by Croatia‘s premier chocolate manufacturer, Kraš, Čokobar is a devilishly tempting destination for anyone with a soft spot for the dark stuff. The drinking chocolate they serve here is sensuously thick and luxuriant - in contrast to the vaguely brown-coloured milky drink you tend to get elsewhere. Alongside regular teaand-coffee-type drinks, Čokobar also serves chocolateplus-hard-liquor cocktails. Additionally, Kraš chocolate sweets can be bought either individually or by the box. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. Sun 08:00 -24:00. September Open 07:00 - 23:00. Sun 08:00 -23:00. PAGB Design hotel Astoria Ulica maršala Tita 174 (Hotel Astoria), tel. (+385-51) 70 63 50, info@ hotel-astoria.hr, www.hotel-astoria.hr. One of the funkiest spots in Opatija, the styling in this bar is sharp enough to take your eye out. It‘s light and airy, with pleasing, feminine touches such as fresh flowers, and has a lovely big terrace. A great place for relaxed cocktails. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PALB Grand Cafe Viktora Cara Emina 6 (Grand Hotel 4 opatijska cvijeta), tel. (+385-51) 27 84 97, info@ milenijhoteli.com, www.milenijhoteli.hr. Plonked conveniently on Opatija‘s main thoroughfare, the comfy armchairs of the Grand Café provide the perfect environment in which to tuck into an extravagant array of cakes and pastries, backed up by decent coffee and velvety hot chocolate. The hand-made sweets make great gifts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PAB Palme Ulica Maršala Tita 108 (Hotel Bristol), Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 18, info@hotel-bristol. hr, www.hotel-bristol.hr. Enjoy the ceilings and bouffant plasterwork in this lofty, Viennese-style coffee house with comfortable, modern furnishings. The cakes are phenomenal! Treat yourself to mulled wine and special doughnuts (krafne) at Carnival time. QOpen 08:00 23:00. PAGB

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LEISURE Swimming Yup, you‘re right! From the centre of Rijeka you can‘t see too many sparkling beaches. So where do the locals go for a dip? In the city itself there are about 20 beaches which are located to the east and west with two of them even carrying the Blue Flag title - the newly arranged award winning Ploče beach ranked as the best urban local beach in Croatia and the other is Kostanj beach. These beaches vary in sizes and configuration with additional facilities, hospitality and children‘s playgrounds. The grand eastern neighbourhood of Pećine has clean, rocky beaches and historic villas. Further east, in Kostrena, try the lovely Žurkovo cove. To the west of the city, the beaches spread from Kantrida across Bivio to Preluka which is perfect for windsurfers and has a great view of Opatija. Public transport will get you to all beaches and if you‘re lucky enough to have a car, there is free parking in most places nearby. Bus No.1 rides towards the east to Pećine and to Bivio to the west. Bus No. 32 rides to Preluk. The Rijeka Tourist Board has brochure with maps of all beaches and their surrounding amenities which can be picked up at their offices or simply download it from the web. Kantrida Swimming Pools Podkoludricu 2, tel. (+38551) 66 66 00, bazeni-kantrida@rijekasport.hr, www. rijekasport.hr/BazeniKantrida. Q Open 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 20:00 - 22:30, Wen, Fri 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 21:00 - 22:30, Sat 12:30 - 15:30, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. 10 - 20kn/day, 100 - 200kn/month.

Tennis Kvarner Ede Jarasa 27a, Marčeljeva draga, tel. (+38551) 62 16 01, info@tkk.hr, www.tkk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Price per hour 30 - 60kn.

Scuba diving Dive City Braće Buchoffer 18, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 78 41 75, info@divecity.net, www.divec-

ity.net. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Kostrena Diving Center Rožići 1, Kostrena, tel.

(+385-) 098 981 80 61, dckostrena@dckostrena.hr, www.dckostrena.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Marine sport diving center Aleja Slatina 2, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-) 091 515 72 12, info2@marinesport.hr, www.marinesport.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.

Dive City Archives Whether you‘re interested in diving to shipwrecks, caves or underwater rock faces, Croatia is a great destination for diving. And thanks to modern diving equipment and techniques, children as young as 10 years old can dive quite safely, as can disabled divers. Just be sure before every dive to check the rules for safe diving in that location, to avoid putting your life - or anyone else‘s - in danger. And of course, before you begin, you‘ll have taken your certificate so you know exactly what you‘re doing! Correct Diving Brzac 33, Malinska, Krk Island, tel. (+385-) 091 563 49 30, kontakt@correct-diving. com, www.correct-diving.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

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Kostrena Diving Center Archives

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GETTING AROUND

Public transport Buses. The orange city buses are run by Autotrolej. Rijeka‘s central bus stops are at Jelačićev trg. and Delta Terminal. They connect all the points you need the city centre with Trsat and other suburbs, plus resorts on the Opatija Riviera and Kvarner coast, and places inland such as Kastav. Buy tickets in any news kiosk for 15.50 - 30kn; they are valid for two trips on within the city, stamp your ticket on entry. Tickets bought inside the bus for 10 - 21kn, are valid for one trip on any city route. For timetable information, call 060 15 11 51. Autotrolej, E-1, Školjić 15, tel. (+385-51) 31 14 00, 060 151 151, autotrolej@autotrolej.hr, www.autotrolej.hr.

Taxi Rijeka has a handful of reasonably priced minicab firms. There are taxi ranks outside the main train station, the coach station (also handy for the ferry) and on Matije Gupca, near the National Theatre. Prices vary, but they‘re all reasonable: you pay a flat rate from as little as 20 - 30kn for a 5km journey, for every kilometre thereafter you‘ll pay 5 - 7kn/per km. No extra charge for luggage. Prices for longer trips (over 15km) by agreement. Auto taxi Rijeka N-1, Save Vukelića 21, tel. (+385-51) 54 50 00/(+385-) 091 211 12 05. Cammeo R-3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel. (+385-51) 31 33 13/(+385-51) 12 12 (press 3), info-rijeka@taxicammeo.hr, www.taxi-cammeo.hr. Kvarner taxi, tel. (+385-51) 30 13 01.

Train Central Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka)

A-2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. National info line: 060 33 34 44, www.hznet.hr. The train station is just outside of the city centre, heading west along the coast road. Bus numbers 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32 get you there from the centre. Trains connect Rijeka with Budapest (via Zagreb), Ljubljana and Ilirska Bistrica in Slovenia (via Opatija-Matulji) and Osijek in east Croatia. The HŽ (Croatian Railways) website has good English and German pages featuring ticket prices and connections for domestic and international routes. Ticket office: International office in the central lobby, open 09:10 - 20:40 and domestic open 05:10 - 17:10, Fri and the day before public holidays 05:15 - 20:00. Left luggage (lockers): open 04:00 - 23:00, costs: 15 - 20kn per day.

Buses Central Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor Rijeka) C-2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 20 10,

prometnik@autotrans.hr, www.autotrans.hr. Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A large number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations on all points of the compass. The bus station is on trg Žabica in the city centre. Although small, it‘s a hive of activity with everything you need on the concourse including left luggage, toilets, exchange offices, fast food outlets, newsstands and mini-markets. There is a public phone on Platform 1 outside the ticket office, and a couple of ATMs near the big church on the square. Take a walk across to the church and you‘ll also come across a couple of pleasant cafes. Ticket / information office open 05:30 - 21:00, tel. 060 30 20 10; (1,74 kn per minute), you should press ˝2˝ to contact the operator.

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Photo by Dario Pirjak

Parking Guarded parking

Indoor parking Zagrad, Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+38551) 21 29 62, www.parkingtim.hr. 24 hour guarded parking. Price per day: 100kn, 8kn per hour between 07:00 - 18:00 and 4kn per hour between 18:00 - 07:00. Sun 4kn per hour. Stari grad, Trg Ivana Klobučarića bb, tel. (+38551) 31 51 55, www.parkingtim.hr. 24 hour guarded parking. Price per hour: 10kn between 07:00 - 18:00 and 4kn between 18:00 - 07:00. Sun 4kn per hour durring whole day. Daily maximum (24 hours) is 100kn per day. HŽ Car Park, Žabica Square, tel. (+385-51) 32 01 70. Unlimited parking. Pay from your mobile on 8513. Prices: 4kn per hour, or 20kn per day. Opposite the coach station. Tower Centre Rijeka, Janka Polić Kamova 81a, tel. (+385-51) 40 38 15. Free entrance.

Street parking/SMS Parking

Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for parking! It‘s so simple. Look for the blue sign to see which zone you‘re in. Send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times - check carefully to avoid a ticket. Costs are a few kuna per hour. You can also pay at the machines, which accept 5,2,1 kuna and 50 lipa coins. Make sure you display the ticket on your dashboard.

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GETTING AROUND

Lopača

13A

Drenova

5B 5 103

Pužići Šumci

Josipa Mohorića

Selinari

Grbci

Drnjevići

3 Starci

Srdoči 102 2

Zamet groblje

Dom umirovljenika Turnić A.Barca G.Carabino

Vidovićeva

Martinkovac

Braće Mohorić

Dražice Diračje I.Ćikovića Belog

Ivana Zavidića 3A 2A 101 1A

Becićeva

Novo naselje

Baredice

Bože Vidasa

Mate Balote Ploče

Šparići

Turnić

Nova cesta

Zamet crkva Zamet tržnica

1 Bivio

Zamet centar

Zamet Bože Vidasa

Marčeljeva Draga

Škurinjska I.L.Ribara cesta II Staro I.Žorža Turkovo Brašćine Škurinje okretište spomenik I.L.Ribara 7 4 M.Rustambega Škurinjska Pehlin II Mulci cesta I I.L.Ribara - S.Vukelića Škurinje Pehlin Vinas škola škola Hosti Osječka Osječka Ćićarijska Drežnička Kozala Pehlin I crkva 7A Ul.Hosti Rastočine 5A Osječka - zaob. Pilepići Osječka - Lipa Pehlin Hosti Drežnička Osječka 4A dj.vrtić igralište Mihačeva Fantini Osječka Blažićevo Draga C.Ilijassich

N.Cesta - B.Mohorić

Blečići

Bok

Trampov breg

Studentski dom

Štranga

N.Tesle Toreta Novi list

Tizianova

Manzzonijeva

Pomerio park

Krnjevo Krnjevo Liburnijska Zvonimirova Mlaka Liburnijska Baračeva Vere Bratonje Baračeva I Kantrida 8 Baračeva II Bazeni Torpedo Kantrida

OŠ Kantrida Dječja bolnica

Kozala groblje

Ivana Grohovca

Žrtava fašizma Fiumara

102 Riječki Palazzo neboder Trg RH Modello

103

Linija 101 Linija 102 Linija 103 Novo stajalište

102 101 Žabica

Riva

Tržnica

7A R. Petrovića II R.Petrovića I

Sveta Ana

Gornja Franje Belulovića Vežica 13A

F.BelulovićaZ.Kučića KBC Z.Kučića Z.Kučića II Sušak III Pošta Bobijevo Z.Kučića I Podvežica centar Mažuranićev Mihanovićeva Martina trg Kontuša 6 Teta Roža OŠ Titov ZZZ Podvežica trg Sušački Kumičićeva Kvaternikova Podvežica neboder Radnička Kvaternikova Tihovac 1B Tower Pećine Ž. kolodvor J.P.Kamova J.P.Kamova WTC Piramida Pećine 1 OŠ Piramida Hotel Hotel Pećine Jadran Park Pećine Novi most

101 Željeznički Brajda kolodvor

Trsat 8 2

Vodosprema

103

3.maj Labinska

Slave Raškaj Josipa Kulfaneka

Vrlije

Vidikovac J.Rakovca Paris

Kozala Drenovski put Kapitanovo A.Kovačića

F.l.Guardia

KBC Mlaka Rijeka

Banska vrata Trsat crkva

Guvernerova palača

Sveti Križ

1B Rose Leard

Galenski laboratorij Internacionalnih brigada

Laginjina

1.maja

Strmica

Pulac

Belveder

Potok

Čandekova Tehnički fakultet

Zametska Krnjevo Zametska

Rujevica Osječka F.Kresnika Čepićka Podmurvice Vukovarska

Grohovski put Pašac centar B.Fućka - Pašac B.Fućka G.Orehovica D. Orehovica

Frkaševo Braće Hlača OŠ F.Franković Severinska

Tibljaši Bezjaki

Tr S sat K la gr S ra v ob Kr lav utzka lje au ka ek ze a I ka II

Kablari

he Pa ro rk ja ći ta ra

Mreža noćnih linija JGPP

Grohovo

Kablarska cesta B.Francetića B.Francetića - Tonići B.Francetića - Pešćevac Benaši-B.Francetića

D .Š

Plumbum

3 1A 2A

A.K.Miošića

Delta 5

Jelačićev trg

Važni telefoni Informacije - - - - - - - - - - 060 151-151 Prometni uredi: Gradski promet - - - - - - - 335-578 Prigradski promet: Jelačićev trg - - - - - 212-084 Delta - - - - - - - - - - - 335-784 Školjić - - - - - - - - - - - 311-424 Služba prodaje karata - - - - - 330-775 Linijska kontrola - - - - - - - - - 311-432 www.autotrolej.hr

Rijeka, 11.01.2010. godine

Night Bus Lines

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Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

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GETTING AROUND

Airport Rijeka Airport Hamec 1, Omišalj, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 20 40, 84 20 55/(+385-) 84 12 22, information@ rijeka-airport.hr, www.rijeka-airport.hr. The small airport (zračna luka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka with flights to London, Riga, Stockholm, Cologne... Getting there: Catch an Autotrans bus from Rijeka‘s city bus station on Trg Žabica, 50kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. You can also take a taxi, or if you go by car there‘s parking. For the first three hours parking costs 8kn per hour and each hour thereafter costs 2kn. A day parking ticket costs 66kn. Tickets for between 2-14 days cost 40 kn per day, and each day after the 14th day costs 30 kn.

Airline offices Croatia Airlines E-2, Jelačićev trg 5, tel. (+385-51)

33 02 07/(+385-51) 33 67 57, rjkto@croatiaairlines. hr, www.croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Harbourmasters office Lučka kapetanija D-3, Senjsko pristanište 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 40 31, rijeka.pomorskipromet@pomorstvo.hr, www.mmpi.hr.

Travel Agencies Goya Travel C-2, Ciottina 5, tel. (+385-51) 25 89 75, goyatravel@ri.t-com.hr, www.goyatravel.com. QOpen

Ferry Local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Rijeka to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, and tickets for foot passengers are absolutely affordable, while you can expect to pay about 100kn (15€) to take your car across. Jadroagent D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 76, travel@jadroagent.hr, www.travel.jadroagent. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Jadrolinija C-3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. (+385-51) 21 14 44, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00, Mon, Fri 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Losinia Riva Lošinjskih kapetana 8, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 30 40/(+385-51) 23 10 77, info@losinia. hr, www.losinia.hr. Venezialines agent. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Rapska plovidba Hrvatskih branitelja domovinskog rata 1/2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 41 22, rapska-plovidba@ri.t-com.hr, www.rapska-plovidba.hr. Kiosks in Mišnjak (Rab) and Stinica (mainland) ports.

09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Jadrotours C-2, Dolac 9b, tel. (+385-51) 21 13 71, jadrotours@ri.t-com.hr, www.jadrotours.hr. Q Open

08:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Solen F-2, Strossmayerova 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 15 87, solen@solen.hr, www.solen.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Travelana D-2, Andrije Medulića 8, tel. (+385-51) 21 27 80/(+385-51) 33 65 62, travelana@ri.t-com.hr, www.travelana.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. N

Car rental Dollar & Thrifty C-2, Riva 22, tel. (+385-51) 32 59

00/(+385-51) 33 79 17, rijeka@subrosa.hr, www. subrosa.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Express rent D-2, Trg maršala Tita 108, Opatija (Hotel Bristol), tel. (+385-51) 21 47 42, info@expressrentcroatia.com, www.expressrentcroatia.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. A Hertz C-2, Zadarska 3b, tel. (+385-51) 31 10 98, rijeka. dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

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Towed away If you parked “illegally”, you might get towed away. If this happens, call (+385-51) 37 73 40. The depot is on Brajdica bb, beyond Delta. Reach it by the street Ulice A. K. Miošića - it‘s behind the Brodokomerc warehouse. Open 06:45 - 21:15, Sat 06:45 - 14:15. Closed Sun. There‘s always someone on duty out of hours. Be prepared to pay at least 500kn to reclaim your baby-but at least you can put it on your card.

Summer 2013 21.6.2013. 16:58:42

SHOPPING Shopping centres & Malls Ri Department Store D-2, Riva 6, tel. (+385-51) 33

72 16. This department store first opened in 1974 with the intention of connecting a series of historical buildings on Korzo and the Riva. The building crosses the busy street in the city centre but often provokes ambiguous public reaction. Its interior, which hosts many shops and cafes, unfortunately isn‘t well kept which is obvious to every visitor. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. J Tower Center S-3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81A, tel. (+385-51) 40 38 15, infotcrijeka@gmail.com, www. tower-center-rijeka.hr. This 4-storey shrine to consumerism contains pretty much every Croatian and international highstreet brand you‘ve heard of, plus a huge supermarket near the entrance. With cafes on every floor, and both gambling arcade and multi-screen cinema at the top, it‘s no wonder that Tower Center has become a major day-out destination for the locals - especially on Sundays, when it‘s one of the few places in town that‘s open. To join in the scrum, ride bus No 2 to the Janka Polić Kamova stop. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. ZTC Rijeka M-2, Zvonimirova 3, tel. (+385-51) 56 10 14, www.ztc-shopping.hr. This is Rijeka‘s latest shopping mall. A couple of kilometres out of the city on the main coast road towards Opatija and the border with Slovenia. Opened in 2012 it features all the major shopping names in clothes, sporting goods, telecommunications, electrical goods, pharmacy, an exchange office and ATMs, plus two cafes, a restaurant and a supermarket. Most facilities are open from 0:900 to 21:00. There‘s free Wi-Fi, and underground car park with invalid access. In fact everything you need in one place. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. July - August 25 Open 09:00 - 22:00. LW

Antiques Mali neboder C-2, Ciottina 20b, tel. (+385-51) 21

31 98, antikvarijat@ri.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijatmali-neboder.hr. Antique collectors ought to be delighted as this small store which is situated behind the Capuchin monastery offers numerous old books, some of which are in foreign languages, old Rijeka postcards and a whole lot more. Take the time to find a classical bargain right here! QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

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Triton F-2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2, tel. (+385-51)

37 13 77/(+385-) 091 736 15 64, triton.antikviteti@ gmail.com. Period furniture, unusual antiques and modern ornaments. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. A

Art galleries Laval E-3, Ivana Zajca 10a, tel. (+385-51) 21 11 33,

antikvarijat.galerija.laval@ri.t-com.hr. Beautiful antique furniture, art, ceramics and glassware. Q Open 09:00 13:00, 16:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Mala galerija E-2, Užarska 25, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, mala-galerija@ri.t-com.hr, www.mala-galerija.hr. In the heart of Rijeka‘s Old Town, in a 19th century building, is the little gallery of the famous arts family Bruketa. It has been open for the past 38 years, and was the first private tourist gallery in the former Yugoslavia. It has contributed greatly to Rijeka‘s identity by offering their original souvenirs - the famous Morcić or Moretto - as well as decorative pottery, paintings, jewellery, lamps and sculptures. The place to come and buy unique and original gifts. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Bookshops Antikvarijat Ex-Libris D-2, Riva Boduli 3B, tel. (+38551) 31 22 21, info@ri-exlibris.hr, www.ri-exlibris.hr. Second - hand bookshop in a courtyard just off the Riva, offering an absorbing jumble of oddities, including a handful of English - language choices. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. A Profil Mozaik Superstore S-3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81a, Tower Center, tel. (+385-51) 43 79 58, www. profil-mozaik.hr. Multi-media store offering a reasonable selection of English-language novels, and plenty of attractively illustrated, international titles on art, architecture and design. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A Ribook E-2, Janeza Trdine 9a, tel. (+385-51) 58 15 55, ribook@superknjizara.hr, www.superknjizara.hr. Specialised in online sales. Internet café inside with free internet use. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Tisak Maršala Tita 103, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 60 35 81, www.tisak.hr. The city‘s best choice of international newspapers and magazines, including plenty of glossy English-language monthlies. Q June Open 08:00 - 22:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 23:00. September Open 08:00 22:00. October - June 08:00 - 21:00. A VBZ C-2, Korzo 32, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 10, knjizararijeka@vbz.hr, www.vbz.hr. A large bookshop in the old town - get yer maps and guidebooks here! QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. A Verbum E-2, Janeza Trdine 1d, tel. (+385-51) 31 60 50, knjizara.rijeka@verbum.hr, www.verbum.hr. Specialising in religious themes. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. June 20 - July 31 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Croatian design Mari Cro design studio D-2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel.

(+385-51) 32 40 02, t.o.mari@ri.t-com.hr, www.maricrodesign.com. If shopping is your forte then experience a store that is intended for those who look for something different and unique. Here they sell only Croatian designed clothes, shoes and accessories, and it‘s a great way to support the local industry. You‘re sure to find something chic and stylish as you can choose from over 15 Croatian designers. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

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SHOPPING SHOPPING

Delicatessen Amec E-2, A. Starčevića 7a, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 55, rijeka.korzo@dupin.hr. Delicacy shop with a Croatian knack that offers national and imported wines, rakija, homemade cakes such as the famous Rapska cake and other savouries. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. N Čajkovski tea and coffee shop E-2, Jedrarska 8, tel. (+385-51) 32 32 83, www.cajkovski.com. A little introduction - the Croatian word for tea is čaj pronounced “chai”, the owners of this tea and coffee shop are Russian, one of Russia‘s greated composers was Tchaikovsky and there‘s the connection. This shop offers high quality teas (100 of them) and coffees (25) from around the world, all with bio and eco certifications. The owners have extensive experience and knowledge of the different types of teas and coffees. If you enjoy a good cuppa then this is the place to stock up on your favourite brews.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. Kraš E-2, Korzo 2b, tel. (+385-51) 21 43 62, www.kras. hr. Sweets and chocolates from one of Croatia‘s favourite and longest-standing firms. Q Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Kuća istarskog pršuta (House of Istrian Prosciutto) D-3, Riva Boduli 3 (on the quayside of the port), tel.

(+385-51) 21 11 29. A new store created by Pik and Pisinium from Pazin combining their knowledge of the preparation of bread products with Croatian‘s famous and traditional dried ham, along with local delicacies from Croatia‘s coast. It is a unique shop and eatery selling only the best quality - indulge yourself! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00, Kušaonica Frajona C-2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 32 13 33. Frajona‘s own, award-winning wines from Krk island (try the Merlot Barrique, Žlahtina or bubbly), plus a selection of international wines and champagne. You‘re welcome to taste the wine - there was a bit of a party going on when we were there! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Pavlomir Novljansko polje bb, Novi Vinodolski, tel. (+385-51) 24 80 33. Selling local rakijas - fruit firewaters try herb and fig. Also wine sold from the barrel. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A Piko delicije E-2, Fiumara 3, tel. (+385-51) 31 50 25/ (+385-51) 65 03 54, pik.rijeka@pikrijeka.hr, www. pikrijeka.hr. A super chain of shops selling a vast array of teacakes by weight. Be a rebel and enjoy them with your coffee instead! QOpen 06:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. A Pip E-2, Veslarska 8a, tel. (+385-51) 21 36 35, www. pip.hr. Home produced honey. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Vinoteka 1 E-3, Demetrova 14a, tel. (+385-51) 21 39 24/(+385-51) 21 12 31, rijeka@blato1902.hr, www. blato1902.hr. An atmospheric old shop on the market where you can pick up Croatian wine sold straight from the barrel. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Zeleno i plavo - Delicije našega kraja C-2, Trpimirova 1A, tel. (+385-51) 32 25 98, zeleno.i.plavo@ri.t-com. hr, www.zelenoiplavo.hr. A delectable variety of Croatian goodies from the regions of Gorski Kotar and Primorje led this enchanting store to win several awards. There are so many

Juraj Zigman Creation goodies to choose from, including a huge range of syrups, wines and homemade flavoursome liqueurs. Gastronomical delights include various cheeses, antipasti, seafood, whole prosciutto, jams, honeys, oils and biscuits. Ecological and woollen products make unique gifts. They even have a range of handmade souvenirs or ceramic, bronze, glass and wood designs inspired by the heritage of the aforementioned regions. Literally everything in this store makes a great gift! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Stamp Collecting Filatelija F-1, Križanićeva 6b, tel. (+385-51) 37

20 26. Impress the girls (or boys) with your stamp collection. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

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DIRECTORY Interpreters & Translators

(+385-) 091 311 00 03, rijeka@lingua-soft.hr, www. lingua-soft.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia‘s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber‘s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber‘s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dail your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits

Dry cleaners & Laundries

Post

Blitz O-3, Mate Lovraka bb (centar Plodine), tel. (+385-

Main post office D-2, Korzo 13, tel. (+385-51) 52 55 82. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Ciklopea C-1, M. K. Kozulić 2/3, tel. (+385-51) 68 81 61, info@ciklopea.com, www.ciklopea.com. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Lingua - Soft C-2, Korzo 2, tel. (+385-51) 31 10 00/

51) 34 30 64. Self service launderette. Also at Kumičićeva 47a, tel. 40 37 89, Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Super 24 C-2, Ciottina 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 33 80. Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zambelli D-3, Riva Boduli 5a, tel. (+385-51) 31 32 62. Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Foreign representations Austria E-2, Stipana Konzula Istranina 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 85 54. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark C-2, Splitska 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 25 22, danski-konzulat@ri.t-com.hr. Q Open 11:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Italy D/C-2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 35 52 00/(+38551) 35 52 01, cons.fiume@esteri.it, www.consfiume. esteri.it. For an emergency call 098 / 41 46 02 or 098 41 40 48. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, Tue 09:00 - 12:00, 14:00 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Norway E-1, Žrtava fašizma 2/II, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 27. QOpen 08:00 - 10:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Serbia C-2, Erazma Barčića 9, tel. (+385-51) 33 74 20/(+385-51) 33 74 21, konzulat-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www.konzulat-srbije-rijeka.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sweden C-2, Riva 20/3, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 87. QOpen Tue, Thu 13:30 - 15:30. The Netherlands E-2, Ulica 9. rujna 11, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 19 77, agency@drakar.hr. QOpen Tue, Fri 09:00 - 12:00.

Pharmacy Night shifts are covered by the Centar Pharmacy and you will find which pharmacy is on duty on weekends and national holidays on this site: www.ljekarna-jadran.hr. Centar D-2, Riva 18, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 01. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kazalištu E-2, Uljarska 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 79. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Korzo D-2, Korzo 22, tel. (+385-51) 21 10 36. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Real estate Dogma B-1, Ciottina 24b, tel. (+385-51) 34 10 80/

(+385-51) 34 10 81, info@dogma-nekretnine.com, www.dogma-nekretnine.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Lider plus D-1, D-2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-51) 30 10 44/(+385-) 091 132 40 33, nekretnine@lider.hr, www.lider.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Pets Vet Veterinary clinic Rijeka P-2, Stube Marka Remsa

1, tel. (+385-51) 34 50 33, vet.st.ri@ri.t-com.hr. During non working hours and night shifts vet is on duty on tel: 091/ 214 88 22 which you can call in case of an emergency. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.

Dog Beaches Woof! Woof! Dog owner‘s shed delight as 2 beaches have been set aside for our four legged canine friends! Facilities include special beach access, rubbish bins with PVC rubbish bags and a rubber pipe dog shower. Please follow and abide all outlined rules. Brajdica, R-3 Pećine Igralište, Kantrida

Pet hotels Happy Dog M-2, Šibenska bb, tel. (+385-) 098 960 42 62/(+385-) 091 167 11 67, www.happydog.hr. Dogs hotel. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. N Šapice outskirts, Zubinići 160a, Veprinac, Ičići, tel. (+385-) 099 229 93 77/(+385-) 098 965 83 30, info@sapice.hr, www.sapice.hr. Dogs hotel. Q Open by prior arrangement. N

Making the call You‘ve memorised the misleadingly simple code break-down, and are ready to take the plunge (let‘s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here‘s the trick: dial the subscriber‘s six- or seven-digit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (020 if you‘re calling Dubrovnik for instance) followed by the subscriber‘s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber‘s number.

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HEALTH TOURISM

Health tourism in Croatia has a history dating back to 1868 when the Society of Hygienists was founded on the island of Hvar with the aim of building the first hotel dedicated to health and wellbeing. Thanks to the clean, salty sea and air, the wide variety of lush vegetation, thermal waters and curative mud, the Kvarner region has for many years been a destination for people seeking to restore their health. By the end of the 19th century the resort of Opatija was already favoured by the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy as a spa town. In 1889, Opatija officially gained the status of a health resort. Other famous health resorts at the time were Crikvenica, Veli Lošinj and Mali Lošinj, each of which was registered as a health resort in 1892. In these places the air is rich in sea salt and essential oils from native medicinal herbs, and is very beneficial for the respiratory system. The influx of wealthy guests to the Kvarner region catalysed the development of seaside tourism as we know it today. Today, those in search of improved health and wellbeing can find the following services here: seawater treatments (thalassotherapy), spa treatments (mineral and thermal waters), specialised hospitals, and a range of clinics, dental surgeries, and wellness centres which operate either independently or within hotels.

Basic Health tourism has great potential for future development in this region due to the well-preserved natural environment, the attractiveness of the coast, highly-trained medical staff, medical services which meet European quality standards, prices which are significantly lower than in many other developed countries and proximity to most European capitals. For more information related to health tourism, accommodation, events, gastronomy, culture and more, call into any tourist information centre in the region, or read more at www. inyourpocket.com/croatia/rijeka/hotel, www.inyourpocket. com/croatia/rijeka/concerts-culture-events-entertainments and www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/rijeka/food-drink. Climate The region surrounding Rijeka and Opatija falls within Primorsko-Goranska County, which is divided into three geographic regions: the coastal belt, the uplands region and the islands. The uplands region (known as Gorski kotar) is thickly forested with a wealth of flora and fauna and a large national park, Risnjak. With no polluting industry and very sparsely populated, this region has sparkling-clean air and a subAlpine climate. In the summer months, this is a great place to enjoy refreshing breezes and cool nights - a good night‘s sleep is guaranteed!

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The coastal region occupies a crescent-shaped bel t encompassing the gulf of Rijeka and the Vinodol channel. It stretches from the foot of Mount Učka, skirting the hills that fringe Gorski kotar to the north and northeast. Here, a mild and pleasant Mediterranean climate is tempered by the proximity of the mountains. In the winter months the strong, cleansing bura wind blows from the north. There‘s a considerable amount of rain in winter, and snow is not unknown. This temperate climate results in a proliferation of trees and plants that makes this coastline so attractive and the air so healthy. The island region is divided into two island groups. These comprise Cres, Lošinj and a number of smaller islands in the west, and an eastern group including Krk and Rab and several uninhabited islets. The climate on the islands is warmer and drier than on the mainland, and the environment no less pleasant for that. The four largest islands just mentioned enjoy more than 217 clear days on average every year. The sea temperature during the summer months is an enjoyable 26°C, while in the winter experienced sea swimmers brave bracing waters at 18°C. Disabled Guests All public parking areas have marked spaces for disabled dri vers. In Rijeka most major junctions are equipped with signal-controlled pedestrian crossings, 49 of which have audible signals enabling blind and partially-sighted pedestrians to cross safely. The City of Rijeka provides transport services for disabled residents and tourists through the Autotrolej transport company. Please call 0800 11 66 Monday - Friday from 07:00 to 13:00 to arrange services, which run from 07:00 to 20:00 Monday - Thursday, and from 07:00 to 23:00 Friday - Sunday. Services run each day of the year, including public holidays. Transport services cover the city of Rijeka, and it is also possible to arrange a ride to the following public health institutions outside the city: the thalassotherapy facilities in Opatija and Crikvenica, the orthopaedic clinic in Lovran and the psychiatric hospital in Lopača. More information (Croatian only) on www.autotrolej.hr. Most beaches have facilities for disabled bathers, including wheelchair access, disabled toilets and ramps for entering the sea. Licenced lifeguards are on duty on busy public beaches. Some hotels have rooms which are fully adapted for disabled guests, while many restaurants, swimming pools and campsites have wheelchair access.

Complete listing at rijeka.inyourpocket.com Summer 2013 21.6.2013. 16:58:45

HEALTH TOURISM Getting Around From Rijeka you can travel to the Kvarner islands by ferry and passenger boat: see www.jadrolinija.hr for timetables. Krk island is connected to the mainland by a road bridge which lies about 50km south from the city. Follow signs for the airport or Krk. The main coach station in Rijeka is on the Žabica square. Frequent services run from here to resorts on the Opatija Riviera, the islands and other parts of the Kvarner coast. There are also direct bus services from the airport to Opatija and Kraljevica. The timetable for these local bus services is on www.autotrolej.hr. Thalassotherapy Opatija Archives

Arriving to Kvarner Rijeka is an important transport hub. It has a railway and coach station, a busy port and an international airport (the latter is located on the nearby island of Krk, and is accessible by road bridge). Rijeka is just a few hours‘ drive from the following cities: Budapest, Ljubljana, Milan, Munich, Venice and Vienna. For more information on how to get to Rijeka by air, sea, car, coach and rail please see www.inyourpocket.com/ croatia/rijeka/arriving-transport. If you are coming to the Opatija riviera by car from the direction of Zagreb, your best bet is to bypass Rijeka and travel a further 15km to the west, thus avoiding city traffic. If you‘re coming from the direction of Italy or Slovenia, take the turn for Opatija at Matulji. If you‘re travelling to Crikvenica, Selce or Novi Vinodolski, bypass Rijeka and use the coastal road that heads to the south, which is signposted for Split with yellow local route signs (don‘t follow the green signs which will take you inland onto the motorway). If you‘re arriving by air, you can reach the city centre by catching the Autotrolej bus or by taking a taxi. See www. inyourpocket.com/croatia/rijeka/arriving-transport for more information. If you‘re arriving at Pula airport, head for the city main coach station at Trg I. Istarske brigade; from here you can catch frequent bus services serving Rijeka, Opatija, Crikvenica and Novi Vinodolski. For timetable information check out www. autobusni-kolodvor.com.

Alternative Medicine Many people consider alternative medicine to be an excellent supplement to conventional medical treatments. In Croatia, some 4000 therapists offer various treatments in the area of alternative medicine, although there is still no law regulating these kinds of treatments. However, there is an association of Croatian therapists in natural and spiritual healing which is engaged in raising the profile of alternative medicine in the country. On its website, www.huped.hr, you‘ll find a list of qualified therapists in several branches of alternative medicine. Homeopathy and acupuncture are the most common and widely-accepted alternative therapies in Croatia. Apart from that, you‘ll find crystal therapy, herbalism, bioenergy medicine, light therapy, aromatherapy and medical and oriental massage.

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Where to Stay For more information related to accommodation visit Rijeka Hotels category. Authentic Baška Zvonimirova 62, Baška, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 61 25, info@authenticbaska.com, www. authenticbaska.com. Newly renovated old houses in the Baška historical quarters, 7 apartments decorated in the coastal style as preserved ancient elements combine with the new. Q PLNGXW Balatura Mali Sušik 2, Tribalj, tel. (+385-51) 45 53 40, fax (+385-51) 45 53 44, info@hotel-balatura.hr, www. hotel-balatura.hr. An interesting hotel in the village of Tribalj, 6km inland along the Vinodol valley. This small hotel has been created in a 300-year old building by a German family looking for their oasis far from the pressures of modern life. A great place to enjoy peace and good home cooking. Q LGW Kukuriku Trg Lokvina 3, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 69 15 19, fax (+385-51) 69 18 23, info@kukuriku.hr, www. kukuriku.hr. Located in the heart of Kastav, a rich wine and gastronomy offer, carefully designed rooms and furniture, each room has a different aromatic code. Nada Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, fax (+38551) 85 72 05, nada@ri.t-com.hr, www.nada-vrbnik.hr. Apartments set in old stone houses with restored furniture, backyards filled with Mediterranean plants, a true oasis and an escape from the busy everyday life.

Available Treatments A wide range of treatments and programmes are available in the areas of convalescence, physical and psychological recuperation, preventative health, aesthetic treatments and more. Most guests opt for a stay at a hotel equipped with a wellness centre, with swimming pools, saunas, gyms, beauty treatments and more. There are also a number of centres offering thalassotherapy treatments. Here, treatments are based on seawater, seaweed, salt, sand and other marine goodies. There are many private clinics and dental surgeries, as well as larger specialist hospitals which offer services to private patients as well as being part of the Croatian health insurance system.

Clinics & Hospitals Katunar Dr. Ivana Kostrenčića 10, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 78 51 32, poliklinika.katunar@inet.hr, www. crikvenica-info.com. All-round heath care services, checkups, tests, samples and more. Website available. Medico E-1,E-2, Agatićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 26 31 09/ (+385-51) 26 39 91, medico@medico.hr, www.medico. hr. State of the art, offers specialist examinations and full diagnostics. No waiting list, contact via email. Q A rijeka.inyourpocket.com 21.6.2013. 16:58:46

HEALTH TOURISM

Medikol grupa O-3, Krešimirova 42, tel. (+385-51)

68 80 30, fax (+385-51) 68 80 39, pet-ct.ri@medikol. hr, www.medikol.hr. Two floors, excellent facilities, specialised medical departments, centrally positioned. Contact via phone or email. Pro Vita C-2, Trpimirova 2/1 , Rijeka, tel. (+385-51) 35 24 60, poliklinika.pro-vita@ri.t-com.hr, www.poliklinikaprovita.hr. Full range of specific and general examinations, check-ups also available. Full details on website or contact via email. Villa Elite Nova cesta 46b, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 10 65/(+385-) 098 25 80 95, zoran.zgaljardic@gmail. com, www.zgaljardic.net. Hospital clinic for maxillofacial, general and plastic surgery. More info via website. Zambelli E-1, Žrtava fašizma 10, tel. (+385-51) 32 75 55, fax (+385-51) 32 75 56, dm@mariozambelli.com, www.mariozambelli.com. Specialising in aesthetic surgery, modern and contemporary facility. For more info contact via phone or email.

Dentists Dental Studio Vukanović K-3, Lošinjska 16, tel.

(+385-51) 71 80 60, stom.ord@hi.t-com.hr, www. dental-vukanovic.hr. A complete list of dental services with the patients needs priority one. Contact them for more info. Dentin - Dr. Jasminka Bočina M-2, Kršinićeva 16/1, tel. (+385-51) 64 50 01, info@ordinacija-bocina. hr, www.ordinacija-bocina.hr. Private dental practice, aesthetic and conservative dentistry. More info via website. Dentorium D-2, Medulićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 31 51 75, info@dentorium.hr, www.dentorium.hr. Specialists in aesthetic implantology and prosthetics. Website has all the information. Q A

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Dent Vitalis O-3, Krešimirova 60, tel. (+385-51) 37 10

64, info@dentvitalis.com, www.dentvitalis.com. Centre for implantology, prosthetics and general dentistry. All details are on their website. Q A Dr. Blašković R-2, Linićeva 16, tel. (+385-51) 21 62 17, info@blaskovic.com, www.blaskovic.com. Dentistry is the key as they offer complete dental services. View their website or contact via phone or email. Dr. Jelušić Matuljska cesta 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 50, dr@jelusic.com, www.jelusic.com. Centre for dental implantations, equipped with CAD/Cam tech. Visit their website or contact via email. Dr.Karolina Kokić Borić Ivana Zajca 4, Krk, tel. (+38551) 22 12 83, karolina.kokic.boric@gmail.com, www. ordinacija-kokic-boric.hr. All dental treatments, aesthetic dental work, all ages. More info via website. Dr. Prpić F-2, Strossmayerova 3, tel. (+385-51) 37 71 35, www.dentalprpic.hr. Private dental practice offers dental diagnostics and therapy. Full details on the web or contact them via email or phone. Kalmar Implant Dentistry Izviđačka 2a, tel. (+38551) 26 23 63, info@kalmar.hr, www.kalmar.hr. All types of dental treatment, surgery and therapy on offer. Visit their website. Pavličević - Kustić Preradovićeva 4, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 24 15 22, info@pavlicevic-kustic.hr, www. pavlicevic-kustic.hr. Family tradition, all dental procedures on offer. More info on their website. Rident M-2, Ulica Franje Čandeka 39, tel. (+385-51) 64 89 00, info@rident.hr, www.rident.hr. All necessary dental treatments as well as diagnostics. Feel free to contact them for more information. Škodadent M-2, Hegedušićeva 10, tel. (+385-51) 26 37 66, info@skodadent.com, www.skodadent.com. Private clinic offering full range of dental treatment. Visit their website.

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HEALTH TOURISM Comfort Zone Space Bonavia C-2, Dolac 4 (Grand Hotel Bonavia), www.bonavia.hr. Choose from relaxation treatments, beauty programmes, thematic bath showers and saunas, fitness. Five Elements Wellness & Spa Ambasador Feliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, www.liburnia.hr. Wellness with water! Numerous swimming pools, saunas, baths, massage showers, and ice fountain. Five Elements Wellness & Spa Marina Aleja Slatina 2, Moščenička Draga, www.liburnia.hr. Wellness dedicated to the Earth element via audio and sensual rituals (Tibetan/Shakra). Plus beauty and sauna specials. Novi Spa Hotels & Resort Novi Vinodolski, info@ hoteli-novi.hr, www.novi.hr. The largest wellness and spa centre on the Adriatic offering massages, swimming pools, fitness centre and various beauty treatments. The rejuvenation haven! Photo by Boris Kačan

Smile Studio M-2, Bribirska 2, tel. (+385-51) 67 86

78, info@smilestudio.hr, www.smilestudio.hr. Varied dental services, cutting-edge technology. Visit their website for details.

Health & Spa Gordana Poščić R-3, Drage Gervaisa 2, tel. (+38551) 43 13 26/(+385-) 091 275 15 99, info@fizio-gp.hr, www.fizio-gp.hr. Physiotherapy and rehabilitation centre with monitored treatment. For more info visit their website or contact them via email. Laurana Spa Šetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 38 51, fax (+385-51) 29 34 51, info@ wellness.hr, www.laurana.wellness.hr. Medical wellness centre, various therapeutic services and saunas, Kneipp showers and gym. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Terme Selce 1.prilaz Ive Lole Ribara 8, Selce, tel. (+385-51) 76 40 55, fax (+385-51) 76 83 10, info@ terme-selce.hr, www.terme-selce.hr. If you decide to do something for your long term health and wellbeing by enrolling in a programme at the Terme Selce medical facility, you have the option to stay in one of their comfortable on-site apartments complete with kitchenette and internet connection. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. (4 apartments). A Thalassotherapia Crikvenica Gajevo šetalište 21, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 40 77 77, fax (+385-51) 40 77 63, narucivanje@thalasso-ck.hr, www.thalasso-ck. hr. Hospital specialises in the rehabilitation and treatment of respiratory organs and the locomotor system. Thalassotherapia Opatija Maršala Tita 188/1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 26 00, thalassotherapiaopatija@ri.htnet.hr, www.thalassotherapia-opatija.com. The truest expression of Opatija‘s famous health tourism - it‘s connected by heated walkway to the thalassotherapy spa and medical facility. You get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa, beautifully renovated to provide comfortable, tastefully decorated accommodation with a seawater pool and healthy restaurant. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Fitness & Beauty Kantrida J-3, Istarska bb (Kantrida Swimming pools), tel. (+385-51) 62 23 43, kantrida@blue-gym.com, www. blue-gym.com. Aerobics, body building, cardiofitness, massage, medical programs. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 20:30. Closed Sun. Scipion Milutina Bataje 14A, Zamet, tel. (+385-51) 68 45 76, mistura@scipion.hr, www.scipion.hr. Physiotherapy, recreation and physical preparation of athletes. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun - (fitness). Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun - (physiotherapy).

Organic & Natural Bio&Bio D-2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 32 14 82, www.biobio.com. Eco/Organic food products, supplements and cosmetics store. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A L‘occitane C-2, Korzo 40b, tel. (+385-51) 58 30 32, www.loccitane.hr. Natural French cosmetics from the Provence and Mediterranean region, we recommend immortelle based beauty line for adult skin. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A LS Kozmetika, prirodna@lskozmetika.hr, www.lskozmetika.hr. Natural handmade cosmetics used for healing, developed from scented herbs from the Lošinj-Cres archipelago. All products can be found on the island hotels Punta, Aurora and Apoksiomen, as well as in the Muškardin pharmacy. Nikel, www.nikel.com.hr. Natural cosmetics line, 61 products, find them in all dm-shops and selected pharmacies. More info via website.

Wellness Wellness centres offer a great range of services ranging from medical treatments, beauty programs and relaxing remedies. Comfort Zone Spa & Wellness Aurora Sunčana uvala, Mali Lošinj (Hotel Aurora), www.losinj-hotels. com. Mediterranean décor, luxury spas, swimming pools, facial and body treatments with autochthonous elements.

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HEALTH TOURISM Icing on the Cake Following your treatment you will probably want to make the most of your stay. You can take full advantage of your surroundings by exploring and sightseeing, enjoying outdoor sports, and sampling the local cuisine and culture. The region around Rijeka has a great deal to offer. One of the best exercises for anyone recuperating from medical treatment is walking in the fresh air. Around Rijeka, there are long seaside promendades connecting Opatija with its surrounding resorts, in the Crikvenica and Novi Vinodolski areas, and on the islands (Lošinj in particular has over 130km of signposted footpaths). For those feeling up to something a little more energetic, there are upland hiking and biking trails. Apart from that, the area has a wealth of attractive diving sites: read more about them in Diving in the Adriatic. There are national parks and nature parks, and many other sites of great natural interest and beauty to explore. Added to that, there‘s the healthy, delicious local cuisine and a range of excellent wines to sample. With all this in mind, we‘ve selected a number of places which we feel are particularly worth visiting. We hope that this will help you decide how to make the best use of your free time while you are here.

Field trips Birdwatching In this region there are several sites where you can spot birds. Perhaps the most interesting is the Griffon Vulture which nests on Cres and Krk islands. For more information, see Bird watching Croatia feature on our website. The Dolphin Path, Lošinj island Lošinj has 130km of signposted footpaths. Th e b es t k n own of these is the Dolphin Photo by Darko Podravec Path which skirts the southern par t of the island. Since the waters around the island have been designated a dolphin reserve you can often catch sight of the friendly creatures swimming and at play. Thanks to the Blue World Institute for conservation (www.plavi-svijet.org), visitors can learn about dolphins at the visitors‘ centre in Veli Lošinj; you can help protect the dolphins by adopting one! Journeys through Dobrinj, Dobrinj, Krk island This attractive footpath takes you through a landscape rich in vegetation, to villages where you can see the island‘s au thentic architecture and get a glimpse of its attractive culture. For more information, please call (+385-51) 85 21 07 or 84 83 44. Mount Učka The forested slopes of Mount Učka offer a variety of ways to spend your free time in the open air. Učka is a nature park with 50 hiking trails and 8 mountain bike trails. The park boasts a wealth of wildlife and offers some of the best views around: you can see the entire Kvarner gulf with its islands laid out at your feet, and on a clear day the view south extends as far as the Velebit mountain range. More info on www.pp-ucka.hr. Horse riding, Jelenje Horse lovers can enjoy riding at the Vodičajna riding club at Jelenje, just inland from Rijeka. The club has about 20 horses, more than half of which are pure-bred Arabs, warmbloods,

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half-breds and Haflingers. This is a great way to get to know the Grobnik region (including old Grobnik town itself with its Frankopan tower); to visit the source of the Rječina river and to explore cool wooded trails. Info: Konjički klub Vodičajna, Lukeži 11, tel. (+385-) 091 522 18 20, 091 255866, kk.vodicajna@ gmail.com. Zeleni vir and the Vražji prolaz canyon, Skrad The Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from an opening high up in a rock face. Close by there‘s an inn serving mountain specialities such as trout, game, wild mushrooms and desserts made from highland blueberries. The second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz - or the Devil‘s Pass. This is an 800m long canyon carved out of the rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along galleries and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and at the end you‘ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, stalactites and a small underground lake. Zeleni vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6 motorway (Zagreb direction). See www.tz-skrad.hr. The Frog Museum, Lokve This museum is the only one of its kind in Europe! In this upland area full of forests and streams, frogs have always played an important role in peoples‘ lives. Although the less fortunate of these creatures will one day end up on someone‘s dinner plate, this museum has been created by someone who has a real love for frogs and toads. Gain an insight into their secret lives, and learn about their role in the culture of the region, including literature and art. The little town of Lokve is just off the A6 motorway heading in the Zagreb direction. Info: Frog Museum (Muzej žaba), Šetalište Golubinjak 1, Lokve, tel. (+385-51) 83 10 99, (+385-) 098 998 63 52, muzejzaba@ net.hr, www.muzej-zaba.info. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 12 - 15kn. Brseč, near Opatija A mediaeval town built on a 157m-high cliff overlooking the sea 20km from Opatija. The majority of buildings date from the 17th century, while the town‘s fortifications and bell tower are from the early middle ages. From Brseč there‘s a splendid view of the islands of Cres, Unije and Susak, as well as the of Sisol, southernmost peak of Mount Učka. A walking trail leads from the town direct to Sisol. Jadranovo, near Rijeka This village south of Rijeka is known for its numerous pebbly coves and beaches, its archaeological park and the medicinal mud in the Lokvišće bay. The Risnjak National Park, Gorski kotar Famous for its crystal-clear air, centuries-old forests and three carnivorous mammals which have their habitat here: wolf, bear and lynx. As well as exploring on foot, you can take part in game stalking, fishing and mountain biking - as well as indulging in hearty mountain cuisine. Info: Risnjak National Park, Bijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug, tel. (+385-51) 83 61 33, np-risnjak@ri.htnet.hr, www.risnjak.hr. Lokve, Gorski Kotar A village in the Gorski kotar region, this is where you‘ll find the largest cave equipped for visitors in Croatia: the Golubinje cave, which is located in the forest park of the same name. The forest park is criss-crossed with footpaths which lead to the “Queen of the Forest”, a giant fir tree over 250 years old; and Paklena vrata (or Hell‘s Gate), an impressive rock formation. You can also take a walk to Ledena špilja (the “Ice Cave”), where snow and ice often linger throughout the summer months. There is a restaurant at the park entrance where you can sample regional specialities. Info: www. tz-lokve.hr.

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HEALTH TOURISM

Go Gourmet The gastronomy of this part of Croatia is based on fresh, simple ingredients: both healthy and highly enjoyable. The cuisine of the coastal belt is, unsurprisingly, Mediterranean in character, and as such is low in saturated fats, with olive oil mainly used in cooking. Olive oil contains monounsaturated oleic acid which may help in keeping arteries healthy. Herbs such as garlic, parsley, sage, rosemary, bay and others are used to flavour cooking. The Mediterranean diet is varied and includes plentiful seasonal fruits and vegetables. Most families prepare food from fresh ingredients at home. All of this means that people from Croatia‘s coast are often enviably healthy. While you‘re on the coast, it‘s a pity not to enjoy a nice piece of fresh fish. Some of the most common types include orada (sea bream), brancin (sea bass), škarpina (scorpion fish), zubatac (dentex), skuša (mackerel), tuna (meaning obvious!), srdele (sardines) and gavuni (smelt, similar to anchovies). Interestingly, however, just a few kilometres inland the food people prepare is quite different. Up in the hills, you‘ll be offered vegetable stews, game, home-made dairy produce, home-smoked meats, hearty winter casseroles with beans, lentils, chickpeas, sour cabbage and pickled beets. Game ranges from rabbit, wild boar and venison to bear steaks. If you get the chance to try venison goulash, do, it‘s delicious, and often prepared with cranberries, dried blueberries or prunes. You may come across unusual items such as bear paws (medvjeđa šapa) and the edible dormouse (puh). Throughout the region island lamb is considered a special treat. Alongside the famous cheese from the town of Grobnik (grobnički sir), Croatian smoked prosciutto (pršut) is irresistible.When it comes to desserts, regional specialities include smokvenjak - a cake made from pressed dried figs; presnac made from sheeps‘ milk, and cakes made from the sweet juicy chestnuts that the resort of Lovran is famous for (lovranski maruni). Locally, it‘s considered a healthy habit to enjoy a drop of wine at the end of your meal -a crisp white žlahtina from Vrbnik on Krk island goes down a treat. Dobra vina Riva 20a, tel. (+385-51) 40 10 34, info@ dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr. For all wine lovers, wide range of Croatian and international wines. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Goranska borovnica Belo selo, Fužine, tel. (+38551) 091 512 47 12 pero.kozlica@ri.t-com.hr, www. goranska-borovnica.com. Family run farm, fresh fruit, homemade teas, soaps, jams, fruit liquors, dry fruits. Gospoja Frankopanska 1, Vrbnik, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, info@gospoja.hr, www.gospoja.hr. An agricultural collective which has a winery, a highly-regarded restaurant, a pizzeria and a wine-tasting room. This is a great place to try Krk island specialities, and you can both try and buy their wines and spirits.

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Photo by Željko Jakovac, Tržnice Rijeka

Kastavski spomeni Jurja Vlaha 4, Kastav, tel.

(+385-51) 69 16 53/(+385-) 098 988 14 14, info@ kastavski-spomeni-to.hr, www.kastavski-spomenito.hr. Situated in a building over 300 years old, you can find delicacies from the coast; rakija, cheese, marmalades, liquors, olive oil, honey and various handmade souvenirs. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 17:30 - 21:00. Luketić vina Čavle 37, Čavle, www.luketic.hr. Winegastro shop, they offer carefully selected wines and other interesting items for that special occasion. Manjon Rukavac 60, Matulji, tel. (+385-51) 74 24 60, helicikultura@gmail.com, www.helicikultura. com. If you‘re fond of tucking into a meal of snails, head for the inland village of Rukavac, just north of Opatija, where the Cvjetković family will treat you to home-cooked snails à la bourguignonne, snails cooked in sauce in the Istrian style, snail salami snail paté and more. Natura Rab Barbat 677, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 19 27, www.natura-rab.hr. Organic products from the island of Rab, olive oil, island delicacies, honey products and oh so more. OPG Magriž 17. travanj 9, Kornić, tel. (+385-51) 85 13 51. Traditional methods to produce krčki sir (Krk cheese), wine and olive oil. Buy their products at the ‘Zeleno i plavo‘ shop in Rijeka. OPG Pintar Narodnog oslobođenja 32, Čabar, info@ pintar.hr, www.pintar.hr. Offering different cheeses such as čabarski škripavac, činkel cheese, apple juice without additives, herbal liqueurs, blueberry liqueurs etc. Their products can be purchased at the market in Delnice. Rijeka Fish Market. Get in bright and early for that fresh catch in an atmosphere that is vibrant, jovial and dynamic, a true picture of this port city. Sirana Runolist Špilnički odvojak 5, Otočac, tel. (+385-53) 77 11 77, tomaic-commerce@gs.t-com. hr, www.sirana-runolist.com.hr. Say ‘cheese‘! 100% natural with the assorted Lika cheese, škripavac cheese, Velebit cheese, fresh ewe milk cheese, truffles cheese and more. Can be found in the Kvarner region and the Rijeka Market.

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KVARNER

Krk, Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Crikvenica

Novi Vinodolski

Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along the seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial architecture. There‘s a feeling common to seaside towns around the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better days. Crikvenica developed on the heels of the rising star of Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of the coast. Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the former monastery where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which gave the town its name - crikva means “church” in local dialect) was at one time a childrens‘ convalescent home. A thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and respiratory disorders was established here in 1895. However, Crikvenica never become as fashionable - nor as expensive - as Opatija. The reasonably priced hotels combined with the large pebble and shingle beaches have made this a hugely popular resort today, and a great destination for families with kids. One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play area with all kinds of bouncy attractions for children (there is a small charge for entry). Crikvenica‘s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium (Vinodolska 8, tel. +385 51 24 10 06, Open 09:00 - 19:00, July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20 - 30kn) is beautifully laid out and really fascinating. Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and plenty of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both resorts are just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka. Crikvenica Tourist Board Trg Stjepana Radića 1c, tel. (+385-51) 24 10 51, info@tzg-crikvenice.hr, www. rivieracrikvenica.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protecting the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns of Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were once important centres during feudal times, and all have incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the Wine Valley, you‘ll be well rewarded.

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You can see Novi Vinodolski‘s spindly bell tower crowning the hilltop from miles around. Wandering through the tight and sometimes dank muddle of streets, you feel how it must have been to shelter from the harsh north winds and the marauders that threatened from inland. The bell tower belongs to the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob -a country-style church with a lovely square where you can look out over the islands. The town was protected by a Frankopan fortress, where the Vinodol code was written - an important legal document protecting the rights of commoners from feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script and dating back to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could do with a bit of sprucing up, but the rather special people compensate for this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spirited, they‘re the type you can have a good drink and a good laugh with - maybe that‘s why Vinodol‘s summer carnival is so popular. Novi is a simple place, ideal if you don‘t like commercialised resorts.

Novi Vinodolski Tourist Information Center Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-51) 79 20 32, info@ tz-novi-vinodolski.hr, www.tz-novi-vinodolski.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

www.inyourpocket.com rijeka.inyourpocket.com 21.6.2013. 16:58:51

KVARNER Cres The moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies. Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by the ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural environment and its towns and villages just as they should be. The mountainous north of Cres shelters the Eco centre Caput Insulae at Beli, a non-profit organisation dedicated to protecting the natural environment of the Griffin Vulture - this is one of this rare bird‘s last habitats in Europe - and h elping th e birds th emselves to survive. Despite their scary-sounding name, Griffon Vultures are carrionPhoto by Ivana Stanešić eaters, i.e. they only eat dead flesh, and as such they are valuable in preventing the spread of disease. The centre runs volunteer programmes and hosts two permanent exhibitions: The Biodiversity of the Cres-Lošinj Archipelago and The History of Beli and Tramuntana (the northen part of Cres, a karst region carpeted with sage and forest and grazed by sheep). Check out www. supovi.hr to find out more. Moving south, you come to Cres town, today‘s capital of the island. The gothic architecture you‘ll find here owes much to the island‘s long connection with Venice - it was annexed to the Venetian Republic for much of the period between the year 1000 and 1797. There are a number of fine churches and palaces, one of which houses the Cres museum (Ribarska 7, tel. +385 51 57 11 27) with its collection of sculptures, icons and prehistoric and Roman artefacts. The town‘s main square has been renovated, and the atmosphere there is supremely relaxing. Cres town has a large marina and a string of shingle beaches, and although it‘s largely unspoilt, retains an unpretentious feel. A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection of picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside away from the water, with a wide shingle beach that‘s an absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic inscription in Croatia. There‘s a simple campsite and a couple of pleasant restaurants. If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres is difficult to negotiate if you don‘t have your own wheels), the town of Lubenice is something you should definitely not miss. This old village‘s setting on a high cliff against the backdrop of the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of metres below you, the colour of the sea against the yellow shingle beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb back up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most determined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings. Moving south again towards the point where a short road bridge connects Cres with the island of Lošinj, you pass by beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It‘s fenced off since it ensures the islanders‘ supply of drinking water. Finally, Osor town, which once used to be the administrative centre of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the sunlight and its reputation as an artists‘ colony. You‘ll see modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if you‘re lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now houses the Archeological Collection of Osor.

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Cres Tourist Board Cons 10, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 57 15 35, tzg-cresa@ri.t-com.hr, www.tzg-cres.hr. QOpen

08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Krk So close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to the bridge, Krk is not only the second largest Croatian island but also has one of the most developed tourist industries. Its western seaboard, along which the main artery runs from north to south, is where most larger resorts are located. Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important terminal for the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliffside centre, while Malinska and Njivice are much newer settlements mainly centred on tourism. It‘s quite possible to spend your holidays here without realising exactly how much the island has to offer. Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island was once the seat of the Frankopan family - a powerful dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of the forts, churches and monasteries you‘ll come across on your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the 5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower. The Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril and Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscriptions of great historical significance have been unearthed, or can be seen on buildings, lending an air of the exotic with lettering which resembles a secret code written in the shape of mushrooms and cherries! Krk Town is the island‘s capital, and inside its walls is a lovely little maze of stone streets. Since there‘s quite a lot to see, it‘s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared for crowds in the height of summer. There‘s a little beach just under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe. Krk‘s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on a site where a church has stood ever since the 5th century. Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St Quirinus, protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly the chapel of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual clover-leaf shape on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum includes an impressive 14th century painting by Paolo Veneziano and a collection of silver and gold. When the cathedral‘s not open, you can peep into its interior from here. The cathedral backs onto a square with a distinctive 12th century fortress with blunt forms typical of Frankopan construc-

Photos by Ivana Stanešić

Summer 2013 21.6.2013. 16:58:52

KVARNER Lošinj

Photo by Ivana Stanešić tions. This is the venue for summertime cultural happenings. Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the islet of Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the Franciscan monastery has a museum with an excellent ethnographic collection, sacral art, a library and a natural history section with some stuffed animals with too many appendages that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run retreats, and cultural performances are also held here. It‘s well worth taking a taxi boat over. Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swimming! Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east, and you‘ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km sweep of clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over the mainland is stunning, and it‘s a great place to swim if you don‘t mind the crowds at high season. For gastronomy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik, topping a steep hillock on the northern coast, with a tiny emeraldgreen harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street in the world. The town is surrounded by vineyards where žlahtina, a type of wine unique to Krk, has been made for generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the overwhelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything. Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants. If you‘re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a detour to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon give way to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill, and when you come to the village you start to think of Tuscany. The view from the lovely Church of St Stephen with its wide, stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the lush forests of the island interior, hillsides punctuated by dry stone walls, and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further north of Dobrinj is the Biserujka Cave, the only one of fifty on the island open to the public. As its roof is so close to the surface, rain water seeps through the rock and has formed incredible stalactites. Krk Tourist Information Center Josipa Jurja Strossmayera 9, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 02 26, tic@tz-krk.hr, www.tz-krk.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, - August 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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You‘ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after a while you‘ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and the largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some fine villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters around are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed anywhere around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance of spotting a dolphin. From Mali Lošinj you can catch a passenger boat to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand and with an unusual culture that includes a folk costume featuring possibly the world‘s first miniskirt , or to Susak‘s larger neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and - like Susak - carless, and is for sure a good choice if you‘re looking for a relaxing retreat, it has a surprising amount going on, including a festival of olive oil. Although mali means “little” and veli means “big”, Mali Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj. Veli Lošinj has a delightful fishing harbour and is lent warmth by the colourful villas built by the island‘s wealthy sea captains, who imported exotic plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones. The villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal thalassotherapy facility there today. Mali Lošinj Tourist Board Riva lošinjskih kapetana 29, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 18 84, losinj@visitlosinj. hr, www.tz-malilosinj.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

Rab Sometimes stereotypes are stereotypes because they are just true. You can‘t pick up a guide to Croatia without reading about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty set amid lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to wander along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing that flaps around in the breeze. We tried hard to avoid the stereotypes, but Rab really is that pretty. OK, we don‘t agree so much with the sandy beach thing. One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on. Two: it gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth. Four: it gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky. Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small children. And that‘s why so many people go to them. So be prepared for the large sandy beaches around Lopar in the northern part of Rab to be crowded with slowly basting humanity. But if you‘re prepared to tuck your beach towel under your arm and go for a bit of a hike, you may just come across your own personal paradise. On Rab, there‘s a beach to suit everyone. Whether you‘re a fan of fine grains of silicon or not, the journey to Lopar in itself is time well

Rab, Adriatic Photo Service Archives

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KVARNER spent. You‘ll pass through scenery of green rolling hills that is much gentler than you generally find on Adriatic islands. On the way is a family hotel, Zlatni Zalaz (“Golden Sunset”), beautifully positioned amidst forest and conveniently facing west. Zlatni Zalaz is very active on the gastronomic scene on the island, and we highly recommend it for the chance to try local specialities at excellent prices. Lopar itself, though a perfectly pleasant resort, has rather little to offer in terms of history or sightseeing or other dining opportunities. Rab town is quite a different matter. This is where the superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a narrow

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peninsula, it‘s a lovely old stone town dating back to the Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and cream stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the skyline. The summer season is punctuated with historical displays of archery and knightly tournaments. In the evenings, there‘s a lively social scene with a handful of good bars and a couple of clubs. Rab Tourist Board Trg Municipium Arba 8, tel. (+38551) 72 40 64, tzg-raba@ri.t-com.hr, www.tzg-rab.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Summer 2013 21.6.2013. 16:58:54

STREET REGISTER

Drenovski put P-1 Erazma Barčića C-1, C-2 Fiorella La Guardie P-3 / A-1, B-1 Fiumara Q-3 / E-2 Fra Serafina Schona V-2 Frana Kurelca C-1, D-1 Frana Supila D-1, D-2 Franje Brentinija F-2 Franje Čandeka N-2 F. Račkoga Q-2 / F-1 / U-1, U-2 Frankopanski trg U-1 Gat Karoline Riječke D-2, D-3 Glavinićeva U-1, V-1 Gomila D-1 Grivica E-2 Grobnička cesta R-1 Grobnička riva E-3 Grohovo E-1 Ignacia Henckea D-2 Industrijska M-3, N-3 Istarska J-3

Istarsko pristanište C-2 Ivana Ćikovića Belog J-2, K-2 Ivana Dežmana C-1, D-1 Ivana Filipovića A-1, B-1 Ivana Grohovca E-1 Ivana Rendića B-1 Ivana Zajca Q-3 / E-2, E-3 Ive Marinkovića C-1 Jadranski trg C-2 Janeza Trdine E-2 Janka Polića Kamova R-3, S-3 Jelačićev trg E-2 Josipa Kulfaneka R-2 Kačjak R-1, S-1, S-2 Kalvarija E-1 Kastavska G-1 Kazališni park E-3 Korzo C-2, D-2, E-2 Kozala P-1, P-2, Q-2 Krešimirova O-3, P-3 / A-2, B-2 Križanićeva F-1

Kružna C-2 Kumičićeva R-3, S-3 Laginjina P-2 / C-1, D-1 La Guardia B-1 Liburnijska L-3 Linićeva V-1, V-2 Ljubljanska cesta G-2, H-2, H-3 Ljudevita Matešića B-1 Lorenzov prolaz D-1 Lošinjska K-3 Marka Remsa P-2 Martina Kontuša S-2, S-3 Matačićeva E-3 Matije Gupca E-2 Meštrovićeva L-2 Mihanovićeva R-3, S-3 Milana Smokvine Tvrdog F-1, F-2 Miroslava Krleže J-2 Mljekarski trg E-2 Moše Albaharija B-1 Muzejski trg D-1

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1 Church of St. Jerome, ex Municipal Palace and Stenderac, the city flagpole 2 University Library - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Bu peštansk and Historical Museum of Croatian Littoral - ex Governor’s Palace 3 dimMaritime o pristan išt 4 City Museum e Bečko pr istanište 5 Natural History Museum 6 Palace of Justice 7 St. Vitus’ Church 8 St. Sebastian’s Church 9 Ruins of the late-antiquity castrum 10 The Roman Arch “Old Gateway” 11 Old Town Hall in Rijeka 12 Church of the Assumption and the Leaning Tower 13 “Modello” Palace 14 Main market 15 Croatian National Theatre “Ivan pl. Zajc” 16 Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas 17 City Tower 18 “Ploech” Palace 19 Capucin’s church, the Lady of Lourdes 20 Ex Main Palace of old sugar rafinery 21 Railway station 22 P/B “Uragan” 23 State archives Rijeka

Dola

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RIJEKA Old Part of the Town - a sightseeing tour of the city's nucleus

Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Adamićeva Q-3 / C-2 Adamićev gat C-2, C-3 Agatićeva E-1, E-2 Alda Colonnella E-1 Alessandra Manzonia A-1 Ante Starčevića E-2 Baštijanova P-2 Bečko pristanište B-2 Blaža Polića B-1 Bošket U-1, U-2 Bože Vidasa J-2, K-2 Brajda A-1 Budimpeštansko pristanište A-2 Bulevar oslobođenja Q-3 / F-1 Ciottina B-1, C-2 Dalmatinska E-2 De Franceschiev gat B-3, C-3 Delta F-2 Demetrova D-3, E-3 Dolac C-2, D-2 Drage Šćitara V-2

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STREET REGISTER

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Veslarska E-2 Viktora cara Emina O-2, P-3 / A-1 Vinka Benca M-2, N-2 Viškovo L-1 Vodovodna E-1 Vrlije V-1 Vukovarska N-2, O-2 Wenzelova E-3 Zadarska C-2 Zagrebačka D-3 Zametska L-2, M-2 Zanonova C-2, D-2 Zaobilaznica G-2, S-1 Zvonimirova M-2, N-2 Žabica B-2, C-2 Žrtava fašizma Q-3 / D-1, E-1

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gin

Školjić E-1 Titov trg F-1 Tizianova O-2, P-2 Tome Strižića S-2 Trg Grivica E-1 Trg Ivana Koblera D-2 Trg Jurja Klovića D-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2 Trg Riječke rezolucije D-2 Trg Svete Barbare E-2 Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1 Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trninina E-3 Trpimirova C-2 Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1 Uski prolaz B-2 Uskočka riva E-2 Užarska E-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3 Verdieva D-3

Riva P-3 / C-2, D-2 Riva boduli D-3 Ružićeva F-1 Scarpina Q-3 / E-2 Senjsko pristanište D-3 Slaviše Vajnera Čiče B-1 Slavka Cindrića Q-3, R-3 / F-2 Slavka Krautzeka R-2, S-2 / V-2 Splitska C-2 Stipana konzula Istranina E-2 Strohalova D-1, D-1 Strossmayerova Q-3, R-3/F-1,F-2 Stube Petra Kružića F-1 / U-2 Studentska B-1 Šenoina V-1,V-2 Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića F-2 Šetalište I. G. Kovačića Q-2, R-3 Šet. Rakovca Q-2, R-2, R-3 / U-2 Šet. trinaeste divizije R-3, S-3, T-4 Šetalište V. Nazora D-1,E-1 Šime Ljubića D-2

Nikole Tesle A-1 Nova Cesta L-2, M-2 Nova Ciottina C-1 Orlandov gat 3-A Osječka N-1, O-2 Park Nikole Hosta D-1 Park Vladimira Nazora D-1 Partizanski put U-1 Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2 Pavlinski trg E-2 Petra Zrinskog U-1 Pod kaštelom D-1 Pod voltun D-2 Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1 Preluk G-2, G-3 Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1 Pul vele crikve E-2 Put Bože Felkera V-1 Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2 Radićeva U-2 Ribarska E-2

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O D O N J A D R E N O VA

RUPA

ŠKURINJSKA DRAGA Šmit

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Bolni Rijek

Reproduciranje ove mape ili bilo kojeg njenog dijela nije dozvoljeno bez pismenog odobrenja nosioca autorskih prava.

INFORMACIJE

AUTOBUSNI KOLOD VOR

LUČKA KAPETANIJA

KAMP

INFORMATION / INFORMATION / INFORMAZIONI / INFORMATIONS

BUS STATION / BUSBAHNHOF / ` STAZIONE DEGLI AUTOBUS / GARE ROUTIERE

HARBOUR MASTER’S OFFICE / HAFENAMT / CAPITANERIA DI PORTO / CAPITAINERIE PORTUAIRE

CAMPSITE / CAMPINGPLATZ / CAMPEGGIO / CAMPING

TH TEA

PARKIRALIŠTE

AUTOBUS - PRIGRAD SKE LINIJE

HOTEL

CAR PARK / PARKPLATZ / PARCHEGGIO / PARKING

BUS - LOCAL LINES / BUS - LOKALE LINIEN / AUTOBUS-LINEE LOCALI / AUTOBUS - LIGNES LOCALES

HOTEL / HOTEL / ALBERGO / HÔTEL

TAXI LOKACIJE TAXI RANK / TAXISTAND / POSTEGGIO TAXI / STATION DE TAXIS

PH FA

BENZINSKA POSTAJA

tuRIstički autobus

PAUK

touRIst bus / TouRIstik-Bus / autobus tuRIstico / Bus touRIstique

PRIVATNI SMJEŠTAJ

PETROL STATION / TANKSTELLE / DISTRIBUTORE DI BENZINA / STATION SERVICE

PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION / PRIVATUNTERKUNFT / ALLOGGIO PRIVATO / LOGEMENT PRIVÉ

TOW TRUCK / ABSCHLEPPKRAN / ` CARRO ATTREZZI / FOURRIERE

MU MU

ŽELJEZNIČKI KOLOD VOR

PUTNIČKO I TRAJEKTNO PRISTANIŠTE

HOSTEL

TRŽNICA

RAILWAY STATION / BAHNHOF / STAZIONE FERROVIARIA / GARE FERROVIAIRE

PASSENGER & FERRY TERMINAL / PASSAGIER & FÄHRHAFEN / PORTO TURISTICO E SCALO TRAGHETTI / LE PORT DE FERRY ET DE VOYAGEURS

MARKET / MARKT / MERCATO / MARCHÉ

GA GA

HOSTEL / HERBERGE / OSTELLO / AUBERGE

GARD EROBA

ZRAČNA LUKA OTOK KRK

PRENOĆIŠTE

POŠTA

LEFT-LUGGAGE OFFICE / GEPÄCKABSTELLRAUM / DEPOSITO BAGAGLI / CONSIGNE

ISLAND OF KRK AIRPORT / FLUGHAFEN DER INSEL KRK / AEREOPORTO ISOLA DI KRK / AÉROPORT ÎLLE DE KRK

LODGING / HERBERGEN / DORMITORIO / LOGEMENT

POST OFFICE / POST / POSTA / POSTE

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P PULAC

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BRAJDICA

STARI GRAD KAZALIŠTE

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THEATRE / THEATER / TEATRO / THÉÂTRE

HOSPITAL / KRANKENHAUS / OSPEDALE / HÔPITAL

LPG

AUTO PLIN

ASTRONOMSKI CENTAR

AUTOGAS / AUTOGAS / GAS AUTO / GAZ POUR VOITURE

ASTRONOMICAL CENTRE / ASTRONOMISCHES ZENTRUM / CENTRO ASTRONOMICO / CENTRE D’ASTRONOMIE

LJEKARNA

HITNA POMOĆ

NOGOMETNI STAD ION

REZERVIRANO PARKIRALIŠNO MJESTO

PHARMACY / APOTHEKE / FARMACIA / PHARMACIE

AMBULANCE SERVICE / ERSTE HILFE / PRONTO SOCCORSO / URGENCES

FOOTBALL STADIUM / FUßBALLSTADION / STADIO / STADE

RESERVED PARKING SPACE / RESERVIERTE PARKPLÄTZE / PARCHEGGIO RISERVATO / PLACE DE PARKING RÉSERVÉE

MUZEJ

VETERINARSKA STANICA

BAZEN

TELEFON D OSTUPAN OSOBAMA S INVALID ITETOM

MUSEUM / MUSEUM / MUSEO / MUSÉE

VETERINARY SURGERY / TIERARZT / CLINICA VETERINARIA / SERVICE VÉTERINAIRE

SWIMMING POOL / SCHWIMMBAD / PISCINA / PISCINE

TELEPHONE FOR THE DISABLED / TELEFON FÜR BEHINDERTE / TELEFONO PER DISABILI / TÉLÉPHONE ACCESSIBLE AUX HANDICAPÉS

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GALERIJA

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PET CEMETERY / TIERFRIEDHOF / CIMITERO ` POUR ANIMAUX PER ANIMALI / CIMETIERE

KNJIŽARA BOOKSTORE / BUCHHANDLUNG / LIBRERIA / LIBRAIRIE

IYP_Template_RIJEKA-Summer_2013.indd 65

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PLATAK DELNICE ZAGREB

OREHOVICA Gr

nič

PL ATAK

Čvor “Orehovica”

sta

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DVORANA MLADOSTI Gušč

KRK

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DRAGA

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the best place for shopping, food and fun located at the gateway to Zagreb: A2, A3, A1

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